OCA MAGAZINE #18 Spring 2015

society culture travel business

RRP: £ 4.95 €5.95

ISSN 2053-1036

oca spring 2015

Sharaf Rashidov – The Diplomat The ‘Roof of the World’ Regatta – September 2014 The Lure of Islamic State for Central Asians Kyrgyz Film Makers Stun Moviegoers with Kurmanjan Datka Epic

Azerbaijan * Kazakhstan * Kyrgyzstan * Tajikistan * Turkmenistan * Uzbekistan

www.ocamagazine.com

2

www.ocamagazine.com

Sunday 22 March 2015, 12pm- 4pm University College London, Gower Street WC1E 6BT

Central Asian

Spring Festival Central Asian Spring Festival is a charitable initiative uniting 6 nations in the grand celebration of Novruz in London since 2010.

- Try good variety of traditional food (and 150kg of plov!)

- Enjoy Central Asian music and dance performances - Visit cultural stalls to find out more about the culture - Experience Central Asian customs and traditions

Kindly sponsored by:

CentralAsianSpringFestival British-Kazakh Society

central_asian_spring_festival www.casf.org.uk

contents Spring 2015 (#18) 4 editions per year Cover image Film poster: Kurmanjan Datka Editorial Office Silk Road Media Suite 125 43 Bedford Street Covent Garden London WC2E 9HA Publisher - Marat Akhmedjanov Editor in Chief - Nick Rowan Design - Aleksandra Vlasova Advertising Sales-CA - Anastasia Noskova, Shamil Akhmedjanov Circulation & Subscription - Giljamal Pirenova Admin. & Subscription-UK - Anna Suslova Email: publisher@ocamagazine.com www.centralasia.travel www.ocamagazine.com Contact Information Uzbekistan 100100, Tashkent, P.O. Box 3999 (+998 90) 930 87 04, Kyrgyzstan Bishkek, Suite 343/2. 40, Manas str. (+996) 312 474 175, (+996) 555 20 68 45, United Kingdom Silk Road Media Suite 125 43 Bedford Street Covent Garden London WC2E 9HA

4

Sharaf Rashidov – The Diplomat

8

Cycling to Hell and Back

12 Central Asian Echoes of the Russian Rouble 16 Turkmen-UK

Relationship to Grow

18 The ‘Roof of the World’ Regatta – September 2014 24 The Lure of Islamic State for Central Asians 26 Breaking the Kazakh Da Vinci Code 30 Kyrgyz Film Makers Stun Moviegoers with Kurmanjan Datka Epic 34 Re-Writing the Rule Book 38 Tajik Author Claims OCABF Prize 40 Amazing Azerbaijan: The Craftsmanship of Baku Jewellers 44 Mountain Madness: Extreme Adventures in Kyrgyzstan’s Nature 48 Book Review : The Land of Forty Tribes 49 Book Review : Arhat 50 Food Corner : Fatir 52 Latest events from The European Azerbaijan Society 54 Events 56 Obituary: In Memoriam Jack Rupert Hemsley

Disclaimer The information contained in this publication is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by Open Central Asia and while we endeavour to ensure the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability or suitability of the information, products, services, or related graphics represented for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk.

All authors provide their own material and any opinions contained within are solely those of the authors and do not neccessarily represent the views or opinions of Open Central Asia. We publish these views as part of our provision of a forum for discussion and readers should be aware that the views may contrast each other in the pursuit of this aim. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of data or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of material contained within this publication.

Special gratitude for cooperation and support to Embassy of Azerbaijan to the UK. Embassy of Kazakhstan to the UK. Embassy of Tajikistan to the UK. Embassy of Kyrgyzstan to the UK.

a warm welcome

Happy Navruz!

I had the great pleasure of connecting with a range of both international and local literary stars at the third Open Central Asia Book Forum and Literature Festival in Almaty in November. The event was certainly bigger and better than the previous ones and shows the increasing appetite to get on the front foot to promote Central Asian authors and themes in the literary world. More than 2,500 people attended the 38 different events held all over the city and I hope those of you who joined us felt it was a useful few days making new contacts and learning new things. This issue has a good focus on the events and the winners of the competitions. I’m delighted that the initiative is now firmly an annual fixture and the candidate cities of Kazan, Baku, Dushanbe, Minsk and Edinburgh show the diversity of interest to host next year’s event.

The end of 2014 was a mixed one economically and politically and 2015 has started with much uncertainty. The collapse in the oil price, followed closely by the collapse in the Russian Rouble, reminds us of the uncertain times we live in. I was in Moscow in December as locals saw the value of their savings’ purchasing power abroad lose 30% in the space of a few days. Foreign holidays suddenly became 30% more expensive and many had to cancel, while battling rising inflation and the squeeze of sanctions. All of this has seen expats leave Russia and return home, and for countries like Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, whose GDP is heavily reliant on foreign remittances from Russia this will have a knock on impact. Meanwhile Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan face further budget issues as oil revenues decline and look set to remain at half what they were last year for the foreseeable future. All of this underlies the need to see continued diversification of economies, which is easier said than done, but the subject is tackled in an engaging article on the subject.

to plague our societies, and does so as much on our doorstep as it does abroad. The issue of freedom of speech and its responsibility in the context of what should be “allowed” when it comes to the comical mocking of other’s beliefs and cultures has been returned to the forefront of Western leaders as much as ever before. George Washington once said, “I do not agree with what you have to say, but I’ll defend to the death your right to say it.” Unfortunately, the reality for delivering these rights in an increasingly polarised world are likely to continue to be increasingly dangerous, complicated and intertwined. Herein lies the dilemma therefore. The fact that Europe and many other countries in the world have un-censored freedom of speech comes with the burden that this freedom is not abused by being deliberately hateful or offensive. Given the views of where this balance, or “line that shall not be crossed”, lies will always be different, we must, as journalists, perhaps rethink how our role is defined within society and what the responsibilities of that role are.

I was saddened to read one report that claimed up to 4,000 people from Central Asia were believed to have joined Islamic State jihadists. The report by the International Crisis Group claimed that some “2,000 to 4,000 have in the past three years turned their back on their secular states to seek a radical alternative,” said in a briefing on the region. That figure is significantly higher than the official one given by the governments of Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan and Kyrgyzstan of just several hundred. I have always held the view that Central Asia has a role to play in the region on terrorism and bringing peaceful conclusion and I hope that this is tackled by the national governments.

As always, my thanks continue to go to the fantastic team who have supported us in this, the 18th issue of the magazine, and without whom we could not exist. If you have a topic or article that you would like to contribute for one of our future issues, please do get in touch.

Yours, Nick Rowan Editor-in-Chief

The horrifically shocking attack on Paris magazine, Charlie Hebdo, reminds us that extremism continues

www.ocamagazine.com

5

history

Sharaf Rashidov – The Diplomat From the Cuban Missile Crisis to the India Pakistan Peace Treaty

Sharaf Rashidov is perhaps best known as the First Secretary of the Uzbek Communist Party from 1959 until 1983. A graduate in philology, he started as a journalist. During his leadership of Uzbekistan, Rashidov was also involved in a remarkable amount of international activity that is not quite so well remembered. His communication skills and broadbased worldview helped Rashidov to become a skilled negotiator, who took part in a number of important international agreements on behalf of the Soviet Union.

Two diplomatic experiences of Rashidov deserve particular highlight due to the historical importance of related events. The first one was his involvement in talks between the USSR and Cuba following the Cuban revolution. The second was Rashidov’s cooperation with the Indian establishment and his active role in mediation that ended the second Indo-Pakistani war over Kashmir.

The Cuban episodes of Rashidov’s life occur when Nikita Khruschev, the leader of USSR, cherry picked Sharaf Rashidov to head one of the most important diplomatic missions. In early 1960s, worried about the US deployment of military bases in Italy and Turkey, Khruschev was desperately looking for a counter balance against Washington. Khrushchev eventually decided on Cuba, torn between the pro-US Batista

6

forces and the revolutionaries - Fidel Castro and Che Guevara. At the time, the USSR had not established any level of trust or co-operation with Cuba. Following the economic blockade of the Cubans, Khruschev had to convince Castro to accept the USSR’s protection and benefits in exchange for permission to establish Soviet military bases on the island.

Nobody was sure Fidel Castro would agree to such a risk and inflict the wrath of Washington. Khrushchev needed a careful, smart and experienced negotiator who would convince the Cuban leader to take such a risk. Khruschev had been long observing Rashidov’s importance in the USSR’s development of Asian and African ties. Together with Anastas Mikoyan, a senior Soviet diplomat, Rashidov had been preparing the setting for the visit of the highest ranking USSR officials in Asia and Africa. He co-led numerous Soviet delegations to Pakistan, India, Afghanistan, Birma, Vietnam, China and Mongolia. In 1955, Rashidov’s delegation took part in the Bangdung conference, the first ever large-scale Asian–African Conference.

In 1958, Rashidov organised Asia and Africa Writers’ Conference with a participation of over 50 countries in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. Rashidov’s excellent communication abilities and tact convinced Khrushchev that he was the man for the job.

www.ocamagazine.com

a success. This is how the Soviets started shipping missiles and other military equipment to Cuba.

At the time it was quite a coup to have achieved, right under the noses of Washington.

In the following six months, 45 000 Soviet troops and 40 missile installments with nuclear heads were deployed in Cuba. Upon their discovery, a major international outcry occured. Luckily, the Cuban missile crisis was resolved peacefully with the US agreeing to Khruschev’s demand of shutting down its bases in Turkey and Italy, and guaranteeing the non-invasion of Cuba. The Soviets dismantled their missiles in Cuba in return.

The crisis’ resolution also effectively strengthened Castro’s position in Cuba. In 1963, when Fidel and Raoul Casto and Che Guevara visited the USSR, they went to Uzbekistan too. Rashidov and Castro were reported to have gotten along very well.

Another highlight of Sharof Rashidov’s diplomatic activity occurred during the growing cooperation of Soviet Uzbekistan with post-colonial India.

Rashidov played an important part in promoting and developing the USSR’s ties with India, which was leaning towards the USSR, while Pakistan had picked the US as its strategic ally.

According to Valentin Falin, a Soviet diplomat, the Cuban operation was highly confidential and only a few in Politbiuro knew about it. In May 1962, the USSR delegation led by Rashidov was described in the media as a visit of “irrigators and meliorators led by the head of an agricultural, cotton-producing republic”. This was a cover up for the Western intelligence which was not supposed to know that the head of the cotton producing republic was secretly entrusted to speak with Castro and deliver the Soviet proposal to deploy missiles on Cuba in order to deter a possible US strike.

The missiles and the personnel were supposed to be shipped on ships which would pretend to transport agricultural industry machines for irrigation. Given that such machines were produced in Uzbekistan, Rashidov’s leadership of the mission was not expected to raise suspicions.

Reportedly, at first the Soviet delegation confused and bewildered Fidel Castro. However, after listening to Rashidov’s arguments, Castro agreed to the Soviet proposal and said “If it is necessary to strengthen the socialist camp...”. Starting from zero, it was Rashidov’s diplomacy which made the mission

Cooperation between India and Uzbekistan was made easier due to cultural similarities and strong historical ties between the two countries. Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru, often mentioned Babur, the Timurid born in Andijan and the founder of the Moghul Empire in India, as a remarkable example of a unique link between the two nations. Rashidov also skillfully used this historical tie and added his own personal input to further develop the beneficial relationship of Uzbek SSR with India. There were numerous visits of Sharof Rashidov to India. Jawaharlal Nehru, accompanied

by Indira Gandhi, also visited Uzbekistan in 1955 and 1961.

In 1965, a violent war broke out between India and Pakistan over Kashmir. The war was triggered

by Pakistan’s operation “Gibraltar”, which was designed to send troops into the disputed region of Jammu and Kashmir to launch an insurgency against the Indian rule there. The conflict caused thousands of casualties on both sides. Following a UN ceasefire mandate, it was Rashidov who got directly involved in talks between India and Pakistan and organised a meeting between India’s Lal Bahadur Shastri and Pakistan’s Ayub Khan and Zulfikar Ali Bhutto.

www.ocamagazine.com

7

Although the hosting party was officially led by Alexei Kosygin, it was the Uzbek leader’s main merit and skill of diplomacy which assisted to have such a meeting that was held in no other place than Tashkent.

THE KASHMIR SONG

by Sharaf Rashidov Translation: Alexey Ulko Editor: Robin Thomson “Romantic novel «Kashmir Song» (1956) by Sharaf Rashidov reflects the struggle for liberation of the Indian people,” says a brief encyclopedic definition of «Kashmir Song», coming from the Soviet era. It does not correspond, however, to either the content or genre of the work, which in reality is a deeply dramatic, oriental-stilted and sophisticated narration of the legend of the traditional Kashmiri cyclical change of seasons and the annual triumph of the forces of life over the forces of decay and death. This is a story of all-conquering love between the king of bees, Bamburi, and a spring daffodil, which was the perfect embodiment of Nargis, surrounded by other equally beautiful and cheerful colours.

Their antagonists are severe winter storms and the mysterious, death carrying Horud, which falls on the blooming valley with all its rage and strength, but in the end gets defeated and retreats, not being able to break the love and life-affirming force that carry the flower, bees, trees and the sun that shines on the valley.

ISBN: 978-0-9930444-2-7

8

This meeting of 1966 ended with the signing of the historically important Tashkent declaration, where India and Pakistan agreed to pull back to their pre-conflict borders and decided to restore economic and diplomatic relations. The Tashkent declaration expressed the India and Pakistan leaders’ gratitude to “the Government and friendly people of Uzbekistan for their overwhelming reception and generous hospitality”. Rashidov’s participation in these talks, as well as his general acquaintance with both India and Pakistan’s history, inspired Rashidov’s novel “The Kashmir Song”. The effect of Sharaf Rashidov’s diplomatic efforts resulted in the Tashkent declaration occupying a special place in the historical relations between Uzbekistan and India.

Sharof Rashidov was not just the typical Soviet leader of Uzbekistan. His knowledge, interpersonal skills and ability to listen helped him to succeed as an international negotiator too. The importance of Uzbekistan as a leading country in Soviet Central Asia, and the country’s special position in the USSR ties with Asia and Africa, are substantially due to the diplomatic talents of Rashidov.

Zaynab Muhammad-Dost Anton Kovalenko

www.ocamagazine.com

travel

Cycling to Hell and Back Central Asia goes right to the heart and mind of one determined cyclist

For nearly two years, from September 2011 to August 2013, Danny Gordon cycled across two-thirds of the planet. After arranging sponsorships with Unicef and Sports Relief, as well as setting up a blog to report on his adventure (which, although now completed, can still be read at dannycycles.tumblr.com), he launched from Fornby in Merseyside, United Kingdom.

Gordon’s journey would bring him across the European Union to the backwoods of North

10

America and deep into the Indonesian archipelago, eventually culminating in the Australian Outback and a horrific bout of necrosis courtesy of a white tail spider. And along the way, a zig to the Middle East turned into a zag through the mountains and deserts of Central Asia – and an adventure that changed his life.

“Sometimes you can’t quite put your finger on why you do things,” Gordon tells me as we sit together in a Bishkek cafe in July. He’s returned to Central Asia

www.ocamagazine.com

shortly after receiving his visa, the British embassy in Tehran was attacked by angry mobs. And so Gordon found himself traversing the Caucasus and Central Asia in the dead of winter, during the deadly February 2012 cold snap.

“My logic was that by the time I would get to Baku it would be March and start to turn into spring in those countries. In reality, I left too early; I should have stayed a couple of months. The truth is, I got itchy feet, and I used this logic to justify my getting back on the bike.”

In Georgia, he outlasted a night-time blizzard with a family in a small hut, the walls of which were adorned with hunting rifles, “according to the husband, ‘for hunting bears and Russians... mostly Russians’”.

In the town of Kutaisi, he was floored by a nasty head cold and ended up recuperating in the only bed for rent in town – in a brothel. “There I was in my room, barfing and quite unwell, and all around me I could hear sex.” to intern with Open Central Asia magazine. He takes a moment to sip a cappuccino and reflect.

“But I can say that definitely it was some kind of curiosity, broadly-speaking.”

He pauses again. “Well, curiosity – and something that turned out to be nearly self-destructive.”

Gordon arrived in Turkey in early November 2011. His original plan was to go to Iran. However,

“All in all,” Gordon says with a smirk, “Georgia was the highlight of my trip.”

Azerbaijan, by contrast, was the most dangerous part of his trek. Gordon biked for a week through below-freezing conditions before suddenly waking up in a hotel room in Baku wearing only his cycling shorts, with Azeri manats stuffed into one pocket and a phone number in the other – and no memory

www.ocamagazine.com

11

travel

of how he got there. The phone number belonged to a man named Nasser, a local petrol merchant who had found Gordon delirious on the side of the highway.

The young cyclist had stripped himself down to only a t-shirt and shorts and exhibited the violent delirium of advanced hypothermia.

After spending a few weeks recovering, Gordon crossed the Caspian and in Aktau hitched a ride with a trio of off-duty Kyrgyz policemen who were importing a Western car to Kyrgyzstan. They dropped him off in Beynau to catch a train to Nukus, from which he streaked across the Kyzyl-Kum desert on the new A-380 highway. Even two years later, Gordon still bemoans the “bitty” quality of the road and praises the flavourful “roadkill shaslik” at impromptu chaikhanas that locals had erected to service the Turkish asphalt layers.

“It was incredible cycling, absolutely wonderful,” reflects Gordon. “I had been through hell. I had this tingling sensation in my fingers, which I later discovered was sustained nerve damage from taking so much impact while tightly gripping the handle bars, and I had lost the tip of my little toe in Azerbaijan.

“However, the hell wasn’t just physical, not even primarily so. At that point, I honestly felt things were turning around. And then I started having bike problems again despite all the new repairs. That’s when the real despair kicked in.”

Four days into the Pamirs, Gordon’s bike broke once again – and he broke with it.

“Understandably, people were so shocked to see me out there. Drivers in enormous trucks and tractor trailers would pull up right next to me, fling open their doors – while moving! – and scream at me, ‘Atkuda!’

‘Where are you from!’”

“I was standing next to some cliffs overlooking this magnificent landscape and I just started bawling. I think it’s because I had a whole new hope with the bike, and when it began to break down, I just wasn’t in a state where I could handle it again.”

After celebrating Navruz in Denov on the Uzbek-Turkmen border – “President Karimov was late for the celebration” – he passed through historic Bukhara, and as he made his way to Samarkand, Gordon and a fellow British cyclist could not help but sing, “Golden Road to Samarkand”.

Gordon continues: “My friend asked me, ‘Why are you doing this to yourself if this is how you feel? If the bike breaks, just don’t do it. Why bother? What’s the point if you’re not enjoying it?’ It was a completely different philosophy; I couldn’t think that way.

Eventually, Gordon made his way to Dushanbe, where he stayed for three weeks while a local mechanic repaired his bike. A sterling Dawes Galaxy+ at the beginning of his journey, the machine had gradually mutated into a chimera of Chinese and Western parts, some of which, such as his pannier rack, were barely held together with Ziploc ties.

12

By April 2012, the Pamirs beckoned. Gordon ascended them with another cyclist from Switzerland.

“It was probably the closest I ever came to believing in God, and it was a cruel, cruel God. I just couldn’t see it all as a coincidence, all these problems that kept coming back.”

Two days later, the two cyclists were descending a mountain when Gordon’s bike struck a pothole and finally crumpled. “By that point, I had developed

www.ocamagazine.com

something almost like a personal relationship with my bike. I felt personally betrayed and I hated it so much that I really wanted to throw it off a cliff. But we were in a small village, and so I looked at my friend and just said, ‘It’s over’.”

As it happened, Gordon’s trek was far from over, as a year and half of cycling with a new bike in North America and Australasia was still be ahead. However, among the jagged peaks of the Pamirs, another journey, an inner one, had indeed ascended to an enigmatic summit.

“One of the revolutionary things that happened to me out there was to discover the complete indifference of the world to my individual being. Who would see me reach this kilometre milestone? No one. No one was out there except for me. There was no victory to be had in the eyes of others.

“It began to feel like the most noble and ignoble thing simultaneously. There was a strange dialogue that went on in my head for a long time: heroes need an audience, but now, here in the Kyzyl-Kum desert, there’s no one but me. So, I also tried to push forward for my own sake, that somehow doing so would be more ‘pure’.”

Gordon says that he never resolved this inner dialogue while he was in Central Asia. Nonetheless, “Tajikistan was where I crashed, and Tajikistan was when I finally began to move in a new direction. I owe that country – in fact, I owe this whole region – a very unique and private debt.”

Christopher Schwartz.

Danny Gordon

This is the chronicle of an extraordinary adventure that led Nick Rowan to some of the world’s most incredible and hidden places. Intertwined with the magic of 2,000 years of Silk Road history, he recounts his experiences coupled with a remarkable realisation of just what an impact this trade route has had on our society as we know it today.

Containing colourful stories, beautiful photography and vivid characters, and wrapped in the local myths and legends told by the people Nick met and who live along the route, this is both a travelogue and an education of a part of the world that has remained hidden for hundreds of years.

Friendly Steppes: A Silk Road Journey reveals just how rich the region was both culturally and economically and uncovers countless new friends as Nick travels from Venice through Eastern Europe, Iran, the ancient and modern Central Asia of places like Samarkand, Bishkek and Turkmenbashi, and on to China, along the Silk Roads of today.

This book is available on Amazon.co.uk ISBN: 978-0955754944 Signed copies available on request from publisher@ocamagazine.com

www.ocamagazine.com

13

14 14

www.ocamagazine.com

The Russian currency has lost more than half of its value against the American dollar since October 2014. Although much of this has been caused by a drop in oil prices, this devaluation is not likely to be fixed when the oil price rises. The sanctions imposed on Russia, following the turmoil in Ukraine, will have a long-term effect on the economy, meaning that Russia can no longer borrow money on international markets. Unlike previous monetary crises in Russia, the rouble’s plummet is dramatic and will not only impact Russians’ well-being. This economic turmoil will no doubt echo in the Central Asian countries, whose economies have become heavily dependent on the remittances sent by their migrants working in Russia.

According to the World Bank, Tajikistan is dependent on remittances for 42% of its GDP with most of this coming from Russia. Kyrgyzstan’s GDP owes 32% to Kyrgyz migrants sending money back home, while Uzbekistan has 12% of its GDP that depends on migrant transfers.

According to Reuters, there are 1 million Kyrgyz citizens working in Russia, while Tajiks are estimated to be over 1 million people.

Uzbek labour migrants are estimated to be at about 4 or 6 million.

As the Russian economy tumbles into recession, millions of Central Asian migrants have seen their real wages decrease rapidly. This has led to a decline in the amount of money transfers from Russia to the countries of Central Asia. The EBRD reports that the first quarter of 2014 already saw an 8% decline in the amount of remitted funds. Data from Russia’s Central Bank showed that during the third quarter of 2014, the funds Uzbeks send to their families had dropped 9% compared to the same period of 2013. This is just the beginning as 2015 will likely be the year where the recession bites and migrants will be the first to know about it.

Migrants are now facing an uneasy choice. Many are considering returning home unable to send more money than it is costing them to live in their migrant country. However, the situation is aggravated by the decision of Russian government to make new and expensive work permits compulsory for those who wish to work in the country.

Should the migrants wish to return to Russia at some point, this could be harder to do with the new regulation in effect. At the moment, however, surveys indicate that people intend to go back home if the Russian economy does not pick up.

www.ocamagazine.com

15

economy Some analysts warn that the mass exodus of Central Asian migrants to their countries could lead to an increase in revolutionary potential.

In fact, Central Asia has benefitted from migration as it helped to solve the unemployment matter on domestic markets. Should a large number of workers return, the respective governments will have to tackle the challenge of accommodating them all in their struggling economies. A few analysts worry about the fact that the migrants have enjoyed the respective freedoms of Russia, and this could potentially bring a massive political turbulence in Central Asia.

Without underestimating the risks, one has to bear in mind each Central Asian country’s specifics and the extent that the rouble devaluation will have on each to see where revolutionary turmoil is likely.

Following the announcement of an imminent Russian recession, the Kyrgyz Republic’s currency dropped 15% in late 2014. This country of less than 6 million has seen two presidents overthrown since 2005. The last revolution followed after many unemployed men returned home from the 2008 recession in Russia. Frustrated about the lack of opportunities, unemployed young men took to the streets and overthrew President Bakiev.

Today, Kyrgyzstan remains one of the poorest countries in Central Asia, and the IMF expects consumer prices in the country to grow 8.9% in 2015, compared to 6.6% increase in 2014.

Kyrgyzstan is one of the most open countries in Central Asia despite having had numerous setbacks in its democratisation. This, however, does not fix the country’s poverty problem and it means the country is not immune to turmoil should things go out of control. Given the previous revolutionary experience of the population, one cannot exclude another change of power in this country.

Tajikistan is another poor country of the region, not least due to a civil war that rocked the country between 1992 and 1997. It is also expected to suffer if millions of migrants return and do not find a job. In 2014, the devaluation of rouble already led to an increase in consumer prices in Dushanbe and other cities, following Tajikistan’s somoni drop of a relatively mild 5.5% as of today. It has been calculated that the Tajik growth will slow to 6.5% this year, from 7.4% in 2014, as a result of the drop in worker remittances in the January-September period. Should large numbers of people return, this will be a burden to Tajikistan’s struggling

16

economy. The government will have to adopt prudent strategies to manage this issue effectively.

The issue, of course, is that you can’t just stop your own people returning home, so it is difficult to see just what they might propose.

Uzbekistan has the largest population in Central Asia and is cited by some experts as a country with an increasing revolutionary potential due to an expected return of the migrants.

Despite the World Bank data attributing only 12% of Uzbekistan’s GDP to remittances, this percentage could be higher taking into account that money is often brought either in person or sent via friends.

After the Russian rouble devaluation, Uzbekistan’s som also dropped 9% in the last few months.

The country, however, has a more diversified economy and state control is strong, which may dissuade the Uzbek population from attempting any dramatic changes. It could probably take a few highly unproductive agricultural years, in order to force Uzbeks to streets. That said, Uzbekistan remains vulnerable should the Russian recession linger on. There is no doubt the Uzbek government will have to think of a plan to tackle the challenges of losing remittances.

Turkmenistan is not so dependent on the Russian market and it has relatively few Turkmen migrating to Russia as workers. In a surprise move, the country devalued its rather stable currency against the US dollar by 18% percent in early January. At first glance it is assumed this follows the Russian rouble shockwave and the fall of oil prices, but the devaluation seems to be a deliberate government measure to sell more gas to China at lower prices. Another opinion states that the government simply ran out of cash and chose to devalue, knowing that it was unlikely to cause any civil unrest. A lesser dependence of Turkmenistan on migrant remittances from Russia, means that the country’s revolutionary potential is rather insignificant today.

Kazakhstan, whose economy is closely linked to Russia, was negatively affected by the rouble’s drop. The National Bank devalued the currency by 19% in February 2014 causing Kazakhs to protest at the government’s decision. Throughout 2014, Kazakh officials had to recalculate the budget and implemented rapid measures to keep the tenge up. While the government urges people not to worry, many say they do not want to keep cash in tenge anymore. Kazakhstan does not have massive

www.ocamagazine.com

amounts of migrants in Russia, being itself a host to a number Central Asian workers itself.

However, a decline in living standards could lead to some social unrest in unfortunate circumstances.

The relative well-being of Kazakhstan may prevent people from massive protests, yet it may also mean that the patience threshold of people could be lower than that of other Central Asian populations.

The government knows this; therefore, Kazakhstan has recently modified its laws on trade unions, which in effect limits the freedom of assembly rights.

In summary, the Russian recession will affect the quality of life in Central Asia more so for those dependent on immigrant remittances, and increase the risk of social unrest in the region. The devaluation of local currencies related to the rouble’s fall will also keep consumer prices high, which could lead to forms discontent. However, one should not jump into the conclusion that Central Asia as a whole will necessarily experience such massive political turbulences as revolutions. Suffice to say that some countries are more vulnerable than others.

The outcome will depend on how the events unfold and what strategies are used by governments to combat the issue.

Bearing in mind the risks, one has to keep in mind the personal preferences of the workers from Central Asia who can opt to stay and be patient, instead of going back home with no guarantee of return to Russia at a later date. Despite the economic downturn, Russian construction projects are not yet halted for 2015. The country will also need migrants to launch its lavish infrastructural projects for the 2018 World Cup. It is fair to say that Central Asian migrants could opt for “wait and see” tactics until the situation resolves.

The Alphabet Game

by Paul Wilson With the future of Guidebooks under threat, The Alphabet Game takes you back to the very beginning, back to their earliest incarnations and the gamesmanship that brought them into being. As Evelyn Waugh’s Scoop did for Foreign Correspondents the world over, so this novel lifts the lid on Travel Writers for good.

Travelling around the world may appear as easy as A,B,C in the twenty first century, but looks can be deceptive: there is no ‘X’ for a start. Not since Xidakistan was struck from the map. But post 9/11, with the War on Terror going global, the sovereignty of ‘The Valley’ is back on the agenda. Could the Xidakis, like their Uzbek and Tajik neighbours, be about to taste the freedom of independence? Will Xidakistan once again take its rightful place in the League of Nations?

The Valley’s fate is inextricably linked with that of Graham Ruff, founder of Ruff Guides. In a tale setting sail where Around the World in Eighty Days and Lost Horizon weighed anchor, our not-quite-a-hero suffers all the slings and arrows outrageous fortune can muster, in his pursuit of the golden triangle: The Game, The Guidebook, The Girl.

Wilson tells The Game’s story with his usual mix of irreverent wit and historical insight, and in doing so delivers the most telling satire on an American war effort since M*A*S*H.

Zaynab Muhammad-Dost Aleksandra Vlasova

The Guidebook is Dead? Long Live the Guidebook.

ISBN: 978-0-9927873-2-5 Available on Amazon, Amazon Kindle www.discovery-bookshop.com

www.ocamagazine.com

17

business

Turkmen-UK Relationship to Grow

On November 24th OCA sent its reporter to attend a trade conference in London, hosted

by Turkmenistan-United Kingdom Trade & Industry Council (TUKTIC). According to the organisers the conference was a huge success as there was a very large turn out of companies interested in conducting business in Turkmenistan.

Represented industries varied from oil and gas sectors to consultancy and education.

With notable guests such as Lord Coe, Professor Charles Hendry MP and Ambassador Ronald Nash, who chaired the conference, it was clear that the conference was aimed at trying to grow the relationship between the two countries. The Turkmen Minister of Education, Mrs. Gulshat Mammedova, led the delegation from Turkmenistan, bringing with her eight other state officials including the Ambassador of Turkmenistan to the United Kingdom.

As an emerging country in Central Asia with vast resources of oil and gas, Turkmenistan has long been on the radar of foreign businesses especially British Businesses. The first trade mission to Turkmenistan was in 1995 just after the country gained its independence.

Many companies within the oil and gas sector have been pursuing business opportunities in Turkmenistan since then.

18

www.ocamagazine.com

The main agenda of the event was to promote cross business ventures in order to help further develop and strengthen the economic relations of Turkmenistan and the United Kingdom.

This is in light of the forthcoming 5th Asian Indoor and Martial Arts Games (AIMAG) that will be held in Ashgabat in 2017. This will be the first Open Central Asia Games (OCAG) to be held in Turkmenistan. The 5th AIMAG will take place in the Olympic Village, a multi-purpose sports facility that is being constructed in the capital Ashgabat. The complex will feature 30 venues, and the first phase of construction is estimated at USD2 billion.

The conference was followed by a reception in the Historic Map Room of the British Foreign Office, where Professor Charles Hendry and Foreign Minister Mrs. Gulshat Mammedova delivered closing speeches and all guests toasted for the future cooperation of both counties. The conference is perhaps a demonstration of the growing success from open door policies under the rule of President Gurbanguly Berdimuhammedov.

Diana Aulova

THE GODS OF THE MIDDLE WORLD

by Galina Dolgaya The Gods of the Middle World tells the story of Sima, a student of archaeology for whom the old lore and ways of the Central Asian steppe peoples are as vivid as the present. When she joins a group of archaeologists in southern Kazakhstan, asking all the time whether it is really possible to ‘commune with the spirits’, she soon discovers the answer first hand, setting in motion events in the spirit world that have been frozen for centuries.

Meanwhile three millennia earlier, on the same spot, a young woman and her companion struggle to survive and amend wrongs that have caused the neighbouring tribe to take revenge. The two narratives mirror one another, and Sima’s destiny is to resolve the ancient wrongs in her own lifetime and so restore the proper balance of the forces of good and evil. Drawing richly on the historical and mythical backgrounds of the southern Kazakh steppe and of ancient Tibet, the novel ultimately champions human love and compassion over rigid predestination and is a call to each of us to listen for the unique spirit that guides us.

With a lifetime of first-hand knowledge of the region in which the story is set, Galina Dolgaya has published a number of novels and poems in Russian. The Gods of the Middle World won first prize at the 2012 Open Central Asia Literature Festival and is her first work to be published in English.

ISBN: 978-09574807-9-7 Available on Amazon, Amazon Kindle www.discovery-bookshop.com

www.ocamagazine.com

19

20 20

www.ocamagazine.com

Albert Einstein wrote ‘If at first the idea is not absurd, then there is no hope for it’ and for most sailors, the concept of holding a sailing regatta at high altitude in one of the most remote and land-locked locations in the world might seem totally crazy. However, this is what the team that conceived of the ‘Roof of the World’ Regatta set out to achieve in September 2014 – a regatta like no other…

The Eastern Pamir of Tajikistan is an amazing region to visit. The scenery is majestic and the culture is rich and laden with the history of the Silk Road, however, this region is not for the faint-hearted. Marco Polo, when he travelled the region wrote: ‘The plain is called PAMIER, and you ride across it for twelve days together, finding nothing but a desert without habitations or any green thing, so that travellers are obliged to carry with them whatever they have need of. The region is so lofty and cold that you do not even see any birds flying. And I must notice also that because of this great cold, fire does not burn so brightly, nor give out so much heat as usual, nor does it cook food so effectually.’ The region can now be navigated by the second highest international highway in the world - the M41 Pamir Highway) – a route that has developed a cult status amongst extreme road-trippers and adventure seekers. At best the ‘highway’ is pothole ridden, at worst it can be a deeply rutted mud track.

Lake Karakul (‘Black Lake’) lies at an altitude of just under 4000m and, being approximately 380Km2 it offers serious sailing opportunities.

Furthermore, being formed from a meteorite impact 25m years ago it lies in a wide depression surrounded by magnificent snow-covered peaks rising to Pik Lenin at 7136m altitude. The lake is served solely by water from local glaciers and for seven months of the year is completely frozen.

However, from June to October it turns from ice-white to turquoise-blue.

Intrepid sailors from all parts of the world were invited to travel to the lake and participate in what would be the highest altitude sailing event in the world, ever. Perhaps surprisingly, expectations of the event organisers were high – they knew that there are always some people willing to take on such a challenge. Sailors, such as Columbus, Shackleton and, more recently, Tristan Jones, have braved the elements to reach previously improbable destinations. By July 2014, 26 participants from 12 different countries had registered to join the regatta, including kite-surfers, windsurfers, dinghies and even a catamaran.

www.ocamagazine.com

21

However, in early August unforeseen problems arose.

Initially, rumours circulated about an impending closure of Tajikistan’s borders, and then restrictions in the issuing of visas occurred in several Tajik embassies around the globe. Prospective regatta participants were faced with the possibility that they might travel 5000 miles to the event to find themselves unable to access their destination. 26 participants rapidly diminished to just five remaining sailors who already had visas and were willing to take a risk with the border – two German kite-surfers driving from Berlin; one kite-surfer flying in to Osh from the UK; a US dinghy sailor who already worked in Tajikistan; and a colleague of the dinghy sailor.

Tony and Jackie Nelson, the regatta event organizers have visited Karakul on six previous occasions.

They work closely with local tourism development organisation META (Murghab Eco-tourism Association, www.meta.tj) to market the Pamir Highway as an adventure destination. Gulnara Apandieva, the Executive Director of META, was the local coordinator and she, Tony and Jackie had spent over twelve months in preparations for the regatta.

22

Their journey started in Osh, Kyrgyzstan and they travelled south on the highway up to the Alay valley at 3000m, where they acclimatized for three days, admiring the Pamir wall on the south side of the valley.

They travelled with Polly Crathorne, who was the first participant to sign up for the event. Polly was the UK’s number one kite-surfing freestyle champion in 2012 and she only took moments to decide to join the adventure. “I just knew this would be the adventure of a life-time and the opportunity to crack some world records was enough for me to want to come along, no matter what the odds were on us being able to sail.”

On Thursday 11th September they headed out from the Alay valley towards the Tajik border. It was the moment that they dreaded and relished – would they be refused entry into Tajikistan? The Tajik border post lies on the apex of the Kyzyl-Art pass, at an altitude of 4280m and on arrival it was immediately clear that there were no unusual hold-ups. Within 45 minutes they were through the border and travelling the 50km down to the north shore of the lake.

www.ocamagazine.com

The village of Karakul lies on the eastern edge of the lake, close to the Chinese border. Approximately 220 families live in the village and although in Tajikistan, the inhabitants are ethnically Kyrgyz and speak Kyrgyz.

Most of the families rely on nomadic herding of sheep, goats, cattle and yaks. The village has no electricity or running water and conditions are very basic.

In the early afternoon our second participant arrived, also travelling from Osh. Kelly, from the US, works for an organisation in north-western Tajikistan and regularly sails on a reservoir in that part of the country but at a more reasonable altitude of just 400m above sea-level. She had brought with her an Aquaglide ‘Multi-sport’ 270 dinghy/windsurfer which took up only marginally more luggage space than Polly’s kitesurfer.

By 4:30pm that evening they had all unloaded their luggage at the Sadat homestay in Karakul, which was to be the base of operations for the regatta, and were down at the lake shore. Polly was about to sail on the lake in beautiful sunshine and kick-off the regatta.

With four local children in attendance she kite-surfed

until her fingers and toes were numb with the coldness of the water. The wind was reasonable but the reduced air density (approximately 65% compared to sea-level) made for limited opportunities to jump. However, as the lake water has a higher salt content than normal sea-water, the added buoyancy enabled Polly to skate the surface more easily and with less drag - speed was not a problem.

On Day 2, winds again arrived late in the afternoon. The weather conditions were excellent with outstanding views of Pik Lenin and snow-laden mountains that surround the lake. Kelly inflated and rigged the Aquaglide and sailed in relatively light winds whilst Polly held off going out until the winds grew stronger.

This evening attracted more children to the lake shore from the village and approximately 30 kids watched the sailing and were eager to help in launching and landing the craft.

On the first official day of the regatta event our German participants arrived early morning. They had spent 8 days driving from Berlin, via Moscow and Kazakhstan to get to the event but their car had

www.ocamagazine.com

23

broken down in ‘no-man’s land’ on the Kyzyl-Art pass before the Tajik border. They had to spend a night at over 4200m altitude, having had no acclimatization.

Benny Stefanski, a former professional volleyball player, learned to kite-surf this year and just came on a spontaneous desire to see Central Asia. Kathrin Borgwardt, Benny’s driving companion for the marathon road-trip, is ranked world number one kiteboard racer and has won the Asian tour five times for racing and three times for freestyle. She runs a kiteschool and resort in Boracay, Philippines.

Despite feeling the oncoming effects of altitude sickness, Kathrin, along with Polly and Kelly decide to try an alternative location for sailing in the evening.

Weather conditions had slightly deteriorated and large storm clouds accumulated over the mountains making an impressive backdrop to sailing out on the lake. Kelly tried out the wind surfing mode of her Aquaglide but soon found the water temperatures of the northern shore of the lake to be much colder than down by the village. Despite some excellent sailing performances in adverse conditions and with darkness and the water temperatures they raced and free-styled for over an hour. All three sailors later commented on how the combination of really cold water temperatures and the difficulty in getting

24

sufficient oxygen at this altitude had made competing extremely tough. Despite this, Jackie managed to get some epic photos of the three of them out on the water.

On Day 4 (Sunday 14th September), Kathrin continued to feel very unwell, suffering from sickness and headaches as a consequence of the rapid rise to this altitude. The villagers also expressed disappointment at not having seen any sailing the evening before, however, by lunchtime they were enjoying a game of beach-volleyball thanks to Benny. He had brought two volleyball pitches, nets and several balls and he proceeded to conduct a fun training session for nearly 30 kids. Volleyball is considered the number one sport in the region and the professional coaching they received was very welcome. By late afternoon and despite the advent of snow, the young men of the village had also been drawn to the beach for the volleyball but later everyone stopped playing to spectate as first Kelly and then Polly went out onto the lake for more sailing.

Over breakfast on Day 5, the events of what was agreed to be the final day of the regatta were planned. Thankfully Kathrin was feeling a little better although reluctant to try the low water

www.ocamagazine.com

temperatures again - the Philippines clearly offering a more pleasurable experience. Benny and Kathrin also paid a visit to the local school to formally donate the volleyball equipment to the school. The Director was overwhelmed with such the gift and handwrote a letter of thanks, in English, to Benny. Throughout the five days of the regatta Jane Leptospira, a Finnish longdistance adventure cyclist, provided welcome and helpful support for the shore-based organizing team.

His assistance in managing launches and landings was invaluable.

The whole regatta team set about running volleyball matches and power-kiting on the beach through the afternoon with over 300 villagers watching or participating. The local Imam declared that he had never seen so many locals, of all age groups, out enjoying themselves at one time. During the day a team of ten Tajik journalists arrived from Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, to report the event. Our fifth and final participant also arrived. Andy had driven from Dushanbe with the journalists to partner with Kelly in her sail boat.

By 5pm the wind had again grown stronger and the Aquaglide was launched with the pair of them as crew.

An inflatable river raft had also been made available by a local tour operator, Pamir Highway Adventure, and a small team of locals ventured out in it under Jane’s captaincy. Remaining always close to shore, they all wore lifejackets for safety. Finally, Benny and Polly went out in increasingly strong winds. They raced at high speeds in the most turbulent conditions of the five days, providing excellent sporting competitive entertainment for the crowds on the lakeside who supported with cheers and shouts. Eventually they both had to come in – Benny was nearly frozen as he didn’t have a dry-suit and he could no longer control the kite properly. The crowds clapped in support and the regatta ended with the team all enjoying some welcome food and drinks at the home-stay.

www.ocamagazine.com

Tony Nelson

25

community

The Lure Of Islamic State For Central Asians According to the ICG report, during the last three years some 2,000 to 4,000 citizens of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan have gone to Syria to join IS.

The Islamic State (IS) militant group poses a challenge in areas far from Syria and Iraq. Dozens of governments around the world are pondering the IS threat not only to the Middle East but also to their own countries. This is especially true in countries with a Muslim majority, such as the five Central Asian states.

The International Crisis Group (ICG) recently released a report, “Syria Calling: Radicalisation In Central Asia”, that looked at why a significant minority of people from Central Asia are going to join the IS militants.

It examines who these people are, and why they represent a threat to their homelands.

RFE/RL’s Turkmen Service, known locally as Azatlyk, recently organised a roundtable discussion on the issue. Why they go is an interesting question in the case of Central Asians. The vast majority of Central Asians are Sunni Muslims but past that there is little that unites them with the land of Al-Sham. Why do Central Asians, mainly Turkic and Persian peoples whose recent history includes nearly 75 years as part of the atheist Soviet Union, decide to leave their relatively peaceful native lands and fight on the side of an essentially Arab group widely denounced as barbaric and depraved?

According to the ICG report, during the last three years some 2,000 to 4,000 citizens of Kazakhstan,

26

Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan have gone to Syria to join IS. It was suggested the root causes for their decision to leave were the often repressive nature of the Central Asian governments and limited prospects for the future. As Deirdre Tynan, the ICG Central Asia project director, puts it, “What does Central Asia have to offer a young person who wants to express themselves, who wants to have economic opportunities in their own region without having to move to Russia to get a job?”

Still, while hundreds go, millions stay.

Central Asians have been going to join Islamic militant groups in Afghanistan and Pakistan since the late 1990s. But unlike Afghanistan and Pakistan, where by far most of the Central Asians are men, young women are going to Syria and there have been instances of whole families going as well.

Tynan points out that for some it’s about more than escaping the socioeconomic situation back home. “It is people who have genuine religious ideals and they believe they are part of a big project that is not just about taking up arms or being a combatant in the classic sense, and that appeals very much to women and families, and to a very diverse cross-section of society in Central Asia,” Tynan said.

www.ocamagazine.com

This was one of the key conclusions in the ICG report: that people were motivated to join IS for religious rather than financial reasons.

Ethnically, most of those going to Syria are Uzbeks, according to the ICG report, but it was pointed out that Uzbeks are the largest ethnic group in Central Asia and, for example, also make up the largest group of migrant laborers in Russia.

Joanna Paraszczuk, who writes for RFE/RL adds that social media has played a big role in who is attracted to go to Syria. The Kazakhs, for example, and the Uzbek groups in Syria have a social-media presence. Paraszczuk says online discussions are “on a very colloquial, one-on-one level [and] it’s very easy to access someone who’s in Syria and it’s very easy to ask them questions about what life is like there.” The Turkmen, in contrast, do not seem to be as active and that is almost certainly due to the Turkmen government’s rigid control over media and Internet access.

Noah Bonsey, the ICG senior analyst on Syria, points out that IS is able to spin its message to potential Central Asian recruits. He says IS emphasises the civilian casualties inflicted by government forces in Syria and Iraq. “They [Central Asians] want to join what they view as a legitimate resistance against these oppressive regimes, and view ISIS first and foremost, as the natural, potential means of joining that fight.”

country and will not be surveilled in a way that they would be in Uzbekistan or Kazakhstan,” Tynan notes.

Another problem for all five Central Asian states is identifying those returning from the conflict zone.

Fighting-age males will be easy enough to spot, but as Paraszczuk notes, women and children could be among those returning one day and could also represent a security threat after what they’ve been exposed to in Syria.

Listen to the entire roundtable discussion at: http://www.rferl. org/audio/26835272.html This is an edited version of the RFE/RL article that first appeared online on February 07, 2015 at: http://www.rferl.org/content/ qishloq-ovozi-lure-of-islamic-state/26835279.html Copyright (c) 2015. RFE/RL, Inc. Reprinted with the permission of Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty, 1201 Connecticut Ave NW, Ste 400, Washington DC 20036.

By Muhammad Tahrir

MAN OF THE MOUNTAINS

by Zaur Hasanov (pen name Abdulla Isa) Paperback RRP: £14.50 ISBN: 978-0-9930444-5-8

The ICG report said most of the Central Asians going to Syria would probably be killed there. But there will be some who will try to go home, such people are the concern of governments around the world and Central Asia is no exception.

Available: www.amazon.co.uk www.discovery-bookshop.com

Tynan says the security services in Central Asia “are simply not equipped to track or to monitor or to counteract the radicalization that is going on.” And the disparity of how these governments approach the problem of these repatriates from conflict zones seems bound to create problems specifically for one country.

“We’ve heard that Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan will certainly operate what was described to us as a zero-tolerance approach to returning fighters, but that actually is bad news for Kyrgyzstan because Kyrgyzstan is a more open society and people who intend to return to Central Asia will more likely go back to Kyrgyzstan because they can reenter the

In Abdulla Isa’s ( Zaur Hasanov) novel, the reader is imbued with the fate of its colourful characters. The mystery of the soul becomes apparent and the reader witnesses violence and deceit, cowardice and betrayal, victory and defeat, and, in the end, heroism.”

— National Writer of Kyrgyzstan, Kazat Akmatov

www.ocamagazine.com

27

discovery

Breaking the Kazakh Da Vinci Code Ancient maps from Rome and the Vatican archives and libraries are helping uncover mysteries in the Kazakh history Scholars and explorers have had numerous discussions about the history and mysteries of the great Silk Road and the relations between Western Europe and nomads of the Eurasian steppe. One aspect of this discourse is particularly fascinating – the relations between Rome and the Vatican with the nomads of Central Asia during the medieval era. There are many references to these relations in various modern history books; however, there are puzzlingly few primary documents and sources about those relations. The question here is whether we can find ways to document these pages of the history by utilising new approaches and discovering new documents?

28

www.ocamagazine.com

The challenge The famous Da Vinci Code thriller suggests that creative interpretation of old symbols and documents, with fresh eyes, may help uncover many interesting pages in both distant and recent history. In this regard, a fresh look at historical maps is likely to be a key part of such study and understanding that could help in re-interpreting some pages of Central Asian history. However, curious adventurers and practical modern scholars face two major challenges: One is where to find the old historical maps of the region; And the second is how to use them in the modern interpretation of the historical, political and cultural relations between the Orient and the Occident.

Many such keys – as the Da Vinci Code suggests – can be found in the archives and libraries of Rome and the Vatican. Indeed, Roman diplomats, missionaries and geographers have been extremely active on the great Silk Road. Ever since the meeting of Pope Leo the First and Attila, the King of Huns in 452 A.E. (when Attila left the city of Rome untouched, despite having a huge victorious army behind him), the Romans believed in the mysterious power of the Eurasian steppe and sent numerous travellers to explore the great Silk Road. Marco Polo was just one successful merchant and chronologist out of many hundreds of explorers and merchants of the region.

There is an assumption that the archives and libraries of Rome and the Vatican still keep hundreds of travelogues and maps hidden in their shelves. These maps and travelogues – written by eye-witnesses of the great Silk Road – can tell us a lot: from the locations of numerous small cities and caravanserais lost for centuries, still awaiting the excavation, to geographic and climatic changes and diplomatic and trade relations between the two “worlds”.

www.ocamagazine.com

29

Rome and Alash The research project “Rome and Alash” was developed by a group of Kazakh scholars led by Dr. Rafis Abazov, Dr. Andrey Khasbulatov, Carmine Barboro and directed

by Dr. Arystanbek Muhamediuly in 2013. The project aimed to explore new resources on the history of the relations between the Romans and Nomads, including the ancestors of the Kazakhs. Indeed, this aspect of their relations is a grossly under-studied page of Kazakh history, and it is still little documented.

The researchers have been studying the information about the libraries and archives in Rome and the Vatican for almost a year, as well as other accessible publications on the history of the Silk Road and scholarly studies of the topic.

The research project was designed to study peculiarities and specifics of the historical, political and cultural relations between these two worlds. The first research field-study trip was conducted in April 2014 and the second was conducted in June 2014. The researchers visited the Secret Archives of the Vatican (Archivum Secretum Vaticanum), the Vatican Apostolic Library (Bibliotheca Apostolica Vaticana), the Vatican Museum (Musei Vaticani), and the Archive of Jesuit Order (Archivum Historicum Societatis Iesu).

Mysteries Hidden in the Archives It took about a week for the Da Vinci Code’s professor of Semiotics to find all answers. In the real world it takes weeks and weeks of research and study to discover something meaningful and interesting, and then to interpret it. After several weeks, the researchers had a pleasant surprise and discovered two collections of old medie-

30

www.ocamagazine.com

Breaking the Kazakh Da Vinci Code

val maps in the Archive of Jesuit Order (Archivum Historicum Societatis Iesu). Though some of those maps have been taken from other sources already known, all these maps represent interesting materials and overviews on the relations between Rome and the Vatican in the late medieval era with Central and South Asia and China. Apparently the missionaries of the Jesuit Order were extremely active in the region and documented their trips and their observations.

These maps are very interesting documents, which not only allow us to have a better picture about the routes taken and the missions of those travels, but also to re-construct a picture about the intensity of those trips and exchanges. In addition, they allow us to try and discover the exact locations of some of the lost cities and headquarters of medieval nomadic khans, including those of the Kazakh ancestors.

Rafis Abazov (PhD) Columbia University and Al Farabi Kazakh National University

www.ocamagazine.com

31

32 32

www.ocamagazine.com

A relatively unknown poem, of Kyrgyz origin, is winning plaudits everywhere it goes as a result of a determined set of film makers who have managed to put together a modest budget and come up with a stunning film that brings this ancient piece of Kyrgyz culture to life. Open Central Asia finds out more…

OCA: Tell us how the idea of the film came about and why you felt this Kyrgyz poem deserved to have its story told?

The idea of making this film belongs to the deputy of Jogorky Kenesh, Zhyldyzkan Zholdosheva, who has been working for a long time on the project dedicated to the Alai queen named Kurmanjan Datka. It follows a number of Kurmanjan Datka events and the monument at the Ala-Too Square.

For several years, the project’s initiators have been striving for this film project. As a result, after 20 years, the government finally supported the idea of the filming a historical feature-length film titled, “Kurmanjan Datka” by the National Film Studio, Kyrgyzfilm, in conjunction with Aytysh films. As the production director I felt a great responsibility towards trying to educate the younger generation.

It is a major film in the history of the Kyrgyz cinema, and it was not a simple film because it tells of the complex life and work of a truly great personality.

That is why I felt that this Kyrgyz poem deserved to have its story told.

OCA: This is Kyrgyzstan’s most expensive film (costing nearly $1.5m), how did you overcome the challenges in raising this money for a film about a little-known part of the world?

This is a state order; funds were allocated from the state budget. It was allocated some 70 million Som. In reality it’s a miserly sum for such a big project. It was very difficult to fit everything into such a small budget. Historical films tend to be very expensive because it is necessary to recreate a detailed picture of the past that is realistic enough to make the audience believe. For the first part of filming, 40 million Som were allocated, but this was not enough and the film crew had to scrap the project, fearing that it might never be completed. There were plenty of people who were skeptical during this period, our ill-wishers added fuel to the fire, making psychological and negative comments that began to put the success of the whole film at risk.

We didn’t give up, however, and finally had some luck when the finances were granted to us and for that I am very grateful to my team.

OCA: What long-term vision do you see for the Kyrgyz film industry as a result of this film? Should there be more national support for the industry or should the money be raised only from private investors given the economic situation in the country?

Native audiences, especially young viewers, need such kinds of films. Today there is a big issue

www.ocamagazine.com

33

around the preservation of national identity, history, traditions, culture and patriotism. History reflected through the movie, with powerful visual and verbal material, is an excellent educational tool. Especially now, when society is dependent on advanced technology and is already partly living in a virtual world, this is an important medium of communication. This project has done wonders to increase the interest in Kyrgyz cinema outside of Kyrgyzstan. Typically, films that reflect the history of individual nations are not particularly interesting

Besides English and Russian languages, the film has been translated into Chinese and Italian. We are currently working on the translation into Japanese. International critics, who had no idea where our country is, how many people live there or what our culture is like, have come up to me after watching the movie to shake my hand and express their delight. Almost all of the critics have admired the national Kyrgyz beauty. Beauty in every sense of the word; its faces, costumes, nature, etc. After the film’s world premiere at the Montreal International

to foreign audiences, and are not very successful.

But we can certainly refute this statement since our first motion picture, Kurmanjan Datka, managed to win over every foreign audience at every film festival. There is a lot of positive feedback from world famous filmmakers, film critics and Hollywood stars. We had to organize additional reruns at film festivals, because there were so many people who wanted to watch this film. That is why such films have to be screened. It’s not just about national support. If there is a worthwhile project, you should also try to find private investors.

Why not to shoot them together with foreign companies? The movie business does not tolerate egoism, it’s a joint art. Each professional makes their contribution to a certain project.

Film Festival, representatives of the Western media covered our project. Such global publications as The Hollywood Reporter, The Guardian, Variety, and Montreal Gazette wrote about us.

OCA: With subtitles in English there is clearly much hope that English-speaking audiences will take to the film and there has been significant press coverage. How has the film been received critically?

34

OCA: Do you have another project in the pipeline that you can tell us about?

Currently we are working on the promotion of a new film of Mirlan Abdykadyrova called “Sutak.”

There are so many projects in our plans. Probably we will shoot another epic project. We received some proposals for joint projects. One is already starting, together with the United States, Russia, Lebanon and Kyrgyzstan. There are big plans for the opening of the Asian International Film Festival in Los Angeles.

Aytysh Film & Kyrgyz Film Studios

www.ocamagazine.com

www.ocamagazine.com

35

book forum

Re-Writing the Rule Book Almaty is the Perfect Host as the Third Open Central Asia Book Forum and Literature Festival Enjoys Continued Success Almaty played perfect host to Hertfordshire Press’ third Open Central Asia Book Forum & Literature Festival (OCABF) held over the weekend of November 14th-17th 2014. The spectacular festival held 38 events that were attended by almost 2,500 people. More than 65 writers from 10 countries made reports and presentations: including from Australia, Great Britain, Poland, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Russia, Turkey, and the Netherlands. For a brief few days Almaty provided the spotlight on developing Central Asian literature and important discussions and debates were held on how writers from the former Soviet Union could get their messages across to a broader readership. Crucially, the event allows writers who don’t write in the universal language of English to be heard.

That this is now the third year such an event has been held is no small feat given that it has taken the energy and commitment of a small British publishing house to fulfil a vision that many participants had been dreaming of for some time. There is still a very long way to go, and the organisers recognise that, but the concept has taken a new level now, gaining annual status and with increasing participation and prize funds to accompany the growing interest.

This year the support from government organisations was notable and suggests that this is a topic that has been raised, in Kazakhstan’s national priorities at least. The National State Book Chamber of the Republic of Kazakhstan, the Association of Publishers and Booksellers of Kazakhstan and the Ministry of Culture of Kazakhstan, Department of Culture of Almaty and the Kazakh Academy of Sport and Tourism were headline supporters.

36

www.ocamagazine.com

This unique event was aimed at the popularisation of literature on the territory of Central Asia and promotion of local authors abroad. It sought to unite writers from all over the world and provide additional information support to national prose and poetry.

Among the honoured guests of OCABF-2014 were Janusz Leon Wisniewski (Poland), Muhtar Shahanov (Kazakhstan), Bolot Shamshiev (Kyrgyzstan), Paul Wilson (UK/Australia), David Parry (UK) and many others. Huge banners had been posted on billboards around the city advertising the event and the messages of a number of high profile authors in attendance.

Open Central Asia’s Nick Rowan gave the opening address to those gathered at the opening ceremony after the orchestra of the city of Almaty played a rousing set of national and international pieces of music. Rowan, who spoke in both English and Russian, to cater for the multi-lingual crowd, said, “Boris Pasternak, the hugely influential Russian poet, novelist, and literary translator, who won the Nobel Prize with his novel, Doctor Zhivago, once said, “Literature is the art of discovering something extraordinary about ordinary people, and saying with ordinary words something extraordinary.” That is all it is about - in whatever language or from whatever part of the world you find yourself coming from.”

In the framework of the festival, a literary competition was held in four categories: literary work, artistic illustration, literary translation and a video-film contest.

More than 450 authors from 20 countries participated in the competition including

www.ocamagazine.com

37

book forum

the countries of Central Asia, Russia, UK, Romania, USA, Belarus, Ireland, Germany, Turkey, France, Japan, Ukraine, Georgia and the Republic of Cyprus.

The winners in each category of the competition were announced on 16th of November at an awards ceremony held in the House of Friendship in Almaty. This year’s overall winner and winner of the Literary Work category was Tajik author, Tolibshoi Davlat with his work on labour migration titled, “Cranes in the Spring”, that will be published

by Hertfordhsire Press in 2016. Davlat’s win follows the 2012 winner, Galina Dolgaya of Uzbekistan, and Zaur Hasanov of Azerbaijan whose books have now been published.

In the Video-Film category Jasur Touraev and Euphrates Sharipov (Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan) triumphed with their film submission and were also presented with the Nemat Khelimbetov award of $10,000 by Kayrat Kelimbetov (Chairman of the National Bank of Kazakhstan). Vitaly Cooper, from Belarus, won the illustration category and Alex Ulko, from Uzbekistan, deservedly won the translation category.

38

For the first time, female writers were recognised with a new award, the Marziya Zakirianova Award, with the winner, Lenifer Mambetova from Crimea winning the $5,000 prize as the best female work in any category for her poems about Crimean Tartars. The award was presented to her by Kayrat Zakiryanov (President of the Kazakh Academy of Tourism and Sport).

A number of writers, who were invited as honoured guests, were awarded the Kazakh National Medal «Кітап мәдениетіне қосқанүлесіүшін» for their personal contribution to the development of literary culture and these were: Janusz Leon Wisniewski (Poland), David Parry (UK), Kazat Akmatov (Kyrgyzstan) and Nick Rowan (UK).

The Organizing Committee of the 2014 festival established a special award (diploma) for authors who have made a special contribution to the development and promotion literature of Central Asia.

In 2014, the award was given to the outstanding Kazakh writer Nemat Kelimbetov. The diploma was a received by the granddaughter of the writer, Shynar Kelimbetova.

www.ocamagazine.com

The evenings during the festival were as busy as the days with special events, drinks and dinners organised across the city to celebrate Central Asian literature. The International Association of Generals for Peace initiated their own awards ceremony of the Dove of Peace medal, honorary certificates and plaques for contribution to the maintenance of peace and understanding in today’s society.

The awards were presented by the Head of the Association, General Anatoly Skargin. A number of writers were awarded certificates and symbols of peace with the prestigious Dove or Peace medal being deservedly awarded to Janusz Leon Wisniewski (Poland), Major-General Gabdulhakim Zhashibekov (Kazakhstan).

During the days of the festival, book readings, film screenings and presentations of a number of authors’ works were held including the book launches of guidebook writer, Paul Wilson’s, “Alphabet Game”, an entertaining take on the world of the guidebook, Kayrat Zakiryanov’s passionate discussion of “Chengiz Khan and KZ factor” mirrored by historian, John Mann’s, new book, “Genghis Khan”. Janusz Wisniewski talked to a pack audience about his new book, “Loneliness on the Net” while Bolot Shamshiev (Ascent of Mount Fuji), Hamid Ismailov, via Skype, (Dead Lake), Kazat Akmatov (Howl) and Bubaysha Arstanbekova (Kurmazhan Datka) also launched their works.

The Academy of Sports and Tourism held a seminar “How to read all the books that you have?” by Elena Bezrukova Centre and included a presentation of a new series of books from Hertfordshire Press, the “Discovery Digest: 100 Experiences” series.

At the House of Friendship а presentation of the unique 100-volume library of the Kazakh folklore Babalar sozi was held, with the participation of Ualiyev K.S., Executive Secretary of the Ministry of Culture and Sports of Kazakhstan, V. Kalizhanov, Head of the Institute of Literature and Art named after M. Auezov and Isabekov N.S., Director of Foliant publishing house.

The final event of the festival was a poetry evening in the Caspian University with Karina Sarsenova, Diana Akhmedzhanova, Anar Akkozy-Karakozy, Ashot Danielyan and others.

The next festival in 2015 is already being planned and the Organizing Committee is currently considering candidate cities such as Kazan, Baku, Dushanbe, Minsk and Edinburgh. An announcement will be made early in 2015 as to which city has been nominated as host city. Whichever one is chosen, OCABF is clearly inspiring a new generation of writers to come forward and bring their messages to the world and that is something that needs to continue to be encourage and grow, even more so in the digital age that we live in.

This year a number of significant events were held.

The National Library hosted a scientific-practical conference titled, “Interaction of literature and cultural transformation as a form of dialogue between East and West” with the participation of the following speakers: Robin Thomson, Laura Hamilton, and Alexey Ulko.

For the third time a traditional round-table discussion was held on the following topic “Development and promotion of literature and authors in Central Asia and abroad” with the participation of Janusz Wisniewski, Alex Ulko, Galina Dolgaya, Laura Hamilton, Marat Akhmedjanov and Robin Thomson. It was generally agreed that more needed to be done in this sphere by governments, publishers and authors using all disposable means.

www.ocamagazine.com

39

interview

Tajik Author Claims OCABF Prize OCA magazine spends some time getting to know OCABF 2014 Winner, Tolibshoi Davlat.

This year’s OCABF, which was held in November in Almaty, Kazakhstan, was perhaps the year that the festival matured from adolescence into adulthood. It is now a firm annual fixture that brings together writers, publishers and readers together to both celebrate and discover those who write from or about Central Asia.

Part of the 3-day event is the culmination of a yearlong search through the OCABF competition to find new talent from the region and help them become published authors. The competition winner, Tolibshoi Davlat from Tajikistan, will be published

by London publishing house, Hertfordshire press, in a prize worth thousands of dollars. It will bring the opportunity for the winner’s work to be seen by readers outside of the region for the first time.

Davlat’s work has already caught the interest of previous competition judges. “Last spring I became one of the five winners of the Novel Asia contest,” he begins. “In an interview I gave then, I

40

told them about my difficult life. I was born on 15th May, in 1955, in Kurgan-Tube city; it’s on the south of Tajikistan’s Vakhsh valley. My childhood was very difficult. When I was 10 years old my father died. Our mother didn’t marry any more, she became everything for us. As the eldest son I was helping her in everything. So I spent my childhood and boyhood among the cotton plantations.”

It’s hardly the likely story of a budding writer whose army call-up, after graduating from high school, meant he had to postpone the chance to study at the Tajik State University named after VI Lenin. However when he did finally make the course, he graduated with a degree of philologyjournalist. “And so, more than thirty years I worked as a journalist for various publications. Now I am the editor of the weekly newspaper “Dzhavononi Tozhikiston.” I have had my love of literature since childhood, though. During my school years I wrote some articles for the regional newspaper.

It led me to journalism. Our civil war made me want

www.ocamagazine.com

to engage in literature seriously. In 1997-2001, I wrote my first book - a novel “Wounds in Blood” or “Sunny Land Stained in Blood.” But my friends gave me advice not to release it. And it’s still in my archive.”

Davlat’s favourite genres to read are adventure and detective stories, which is what has led him to write detective stories generally.

“But I do not forget about social issues,” he reminds, “At the moment I have published two detective stories - “The Dagger of Genghis Khan” and “Cirrus” and also a social novel - “Nest Without Cranes”.”

Besides these he has plenty more novels and stories in store.

So how did he find out about OCABF? “I knew accidentally about the OCABF-2104 contest. After I became a winner in the “Novel Asia” contest, I saw an e-mail about the competition. I asked the organisers if I could participate in this contest as the winner of the “Novel Asia” and they allowed me to be not just a participant, but the winner of OCABF-2014.”

When I question him about how few people there appear to be coming out from Tajikistan as successful authors, he takes a more sombre tone.

“There are many poets and writers in Tajikistan,” he starts. “Some of them write with both hands.

People who have money write with the help of another person, and then publish their books.

It’s just waste of paper.”

So what advice does he have for budding writers? “First of all young Tajik writers must learn. Learn well and read more world literature.

Learning the style of great writers, you can take up the pen and write.” His passion is clearly visible and from what were difficult beginnings this new book will certainly help promote an important message, not just about migrants’ hard lives (timely as a result of the issues in Russia), but also that good writers can find publishers, but they must persist in order to prevail.

Davlat is currently working on a collection of short stories on various topics, taken from local, social life in Tajikistan. It’s a subject he feels important to capture in his writing. “There are very few true readers in Tajik society at the present time. Life has become very difficult. That is why so few people are interested in literature. Nevertheless, after I won this contest, many young guys – migrants mostly, contacted me. They learned that this story [the winning entry] is about the hard life of migrants.

They want to read this book, so it is important that “Cranes in the spring” is published at home, in their own language. The story will be published soon and hopefully it will be a successful. Only because of participating in two contests have so many people gotten to know about me. The fact is that in our union of writers there are only people who are over seventy years old. Six or seven years ago, I passed all the necessary documents for admission to the Union, but still I am not accepted. It appears that my papers were lost.”

Davlat’s inspiration comes from many writers, but Chingiz Aitmatov captures his imagination in particular. “I think that he is a great writer and look on him as a teacher. His books can be found in many electronic libraries. He is a realist writer in the broadest sense.”

www.ocamagazine.com

41

art

Amazing Azerbaijan: The Craftsmanship of Baku Jewellers

Every nation can be proud of some kind of its own art forms, each of which has enriched the world’s cultural treasure chest. Azerbaijan is known not only for its own carpets, clothes, embroideries, copperware, cold steel, but also for its jewels.

Archeological findings show that jewellery has been developed in the territory of Azerbaijan as early as B.C. Like clothes, jewellery had its own regional distinctions depending on the place where it was produced - Garabakh, Tabriz, Sheki, Baku, Nakhchivan, Lenkaran, etc.

The Baku jewellery school’s artistic form, method and techniques became an example for imitation not only in Azerbaijan, but also in all the Caucasus and Russia.

42

www.ocamagazine.com

It was the city in which trade and market relations developed intensively. The Russian traveller, E.Markov, wrote: «Baku is a city belonging not in today’s, but tomorrow’s day. It grows as in a fairy tale, on hours … Baku turns into the Marseilles of the East. In this city jewellery workshops are located in rows. There, fine filigree products of silver and turquoise are made».

Refined earrings, necklaces, bracelets, rings, belts, every possible type of button and suspension brackets - made of silver, gold, rubies and jewels defined the social status of women in rich families In the 19th century, in Baku, a large army of jewellers emerged. They were professional masters not only from the point of view of technical and artistic characteristics, but also in terms of specialisation in producing various kinds of items. Each of Baku’s jewellers specialised in a certain kind of jewellery making: A.Sultanov – in chains, G.Agajarzade – in bracelets, M.Badalov - handles

and snuffboxes, Hadzhi Samed Abdudali - belts and buttons, Mashadi Aliabbas - bracelets and belts, the master Faraj - necklaces, the master Haji Abdulali and S.Aliev - thick belts, Molla Faraj, A.Kerimov, A.Yusifov, M.Ismailov and others – earrings, rings, buttons and head adornments.

In most cases, these products were created by illiterate and poor masters, but the beauty, colour harmony and original forms fascinated people. Ruby, diamond, turquoise and emerald jewels enriched the artistic and aesthetic beauty of these works.

One of the main types of jewellery seen are breast necklaces «sinebend», made of golden filigree.

The first and original example of the necklace appeared in Baku thanks to the skill of master Faraj.

Later the necklace was duplicated by hundreds of craftsmen.

One example is presented in large and small “zoomorf”, in plants, and with parts of a literary composition in astral form of cohesion known as “duzulusun”. This product is used in both simple and complex jewellery. Decorative elements are made with the spiral-shaped pattern of the network. In sinebends, thousands of scratches and twists can be seen in the gold, improved by a comma-shaped motif called “vov. Motifs

www.ocamagazine.com

43

art of the moon, twelve-petalled flowers fastened inside the star, reminiscent of the stars, fish, horizontal and vertical directions, demonstrate the artistic effect. Now the artistic design concepts for the figurative expression of jewellers have their own traditions.

Women’s beautiful pendants, made of gold, are considered to be the most fashionable products.

Since the nineteenth century, the development of the economic situation in the neighboring countries, not only in the city, allowed the expansion of trade relations. In this sense, local jewellers could use luxury models imported from Europe, which were interpreted into the style of the new artistic forms and details. Diamond, ruby and emerald pendants of the noble people of the city were considered essential to show off by rich people. In most cases, made of gold and covered with precious jewels, these works are the pride of the national heritage Holding an important place in luxury jewellery, the Baku “toggas” made by jewellers were executed in the style of a traditional network.

The hallmark magic gold colour and style characteristic of the network, led to the formation of toqqa-buckle. In the case of jewellery, it is always taken into account in its age.

Today jewellers produce by their endless creative thinking with the most popular “piyalazenq” ear-rings in the shape of infinite models.

Network or “minasazlıq” rows take the shape of the original style. The tassel-like earrings worn with leather and decorated with artistic design are popular. The earrings with their unique designs and technological features, as well as artistic style, remind me of the East.

All the examples listed are part of this rich treasure. However, these are not only our physical, but also our spiritual wealth that is preserved by the memory of thousands of years. They are polished over time, developed and reach their outcome. These examples are invaluable for future generations to learn from and develop themselves.

Khadija Asadova Ph.D. in art studies, Azerbaijani National Museum of Fine Arts

44

www.ocamagazine.com

NEW!!!

From Yuri Sigov, a political expert on South Caucasus and post-Soviet countries.

Azerbaijan is not only a fantastically exotic location on the world map, but also a unique bridge joining Europe and Asia. There has never been a better time to become acquainted with this “emerging energy giant� at the Euro-Asian crossroads. Discover what dreams and hopes this country cherishes and what lies in store for Azerbaijan within the next few years. Alongside this you will realise what an incredible economic, and even more importantly, human potential lies in this amazing and absolutely unusual land.

HERTFORDSHIRE PRESS

ISBN 978-0-9930444-9-6

9 780993 044496

46 46

www.ocamagazine.com

Sergei Lisunov, the director of Al Salam Company tells Open Central Asia magazine about his unusual hobby.

www.ocamagazine.com

47

If I went to the doctor, he wouldn’t find me seriously ill. But in the meantime I am sick.

Terribly, seriously, terminally. I was awarded a life sentence by my country, by being surrounded by mountains. My diagnosis? Climbing.

I became “sick” with mountains in early childhood. After classes, together with my friends, I would go up into the mountains instead of going home. In the 9th form it was a favorite pastime. Since those school days and to this day it still afflicts me. But now this sickness begins to progress... Now I am studying the mountain not only through my climbing equipment, but with the help of my car.

A Jeep safari in my country is an extreme journey through both the steep slopes of the mountains and combined with the study of the incredible beauty of Kyrgyzstan. It’s necessary to have a specially prepared car for our mountain roads, such as a sport-utility vehicle, which is perfect for the trips. But even with the best equipment in the world you can still get into situations that will tickle your nerves. Once we travelled from Susamir to Kochkorka. There is a glacier on this road until July that runs across the road. One of my friends drove to the pass and decided to drive across the glacier. The adrenaline is still pumping from the experiences with nearly led to his death.

48

www.ocamagazine.com

Of course, driving the Jeeps through such extreme places and at extreme times of the year is a dangerous occupation. You have to be friends with your head. It requires great courage to make this type of research of the nature and mountain areas. It’s dangerous, but of course, it’s worth it! The main thing is the right choice of reliable partners. The similarity between a jeep safari and mountaineering is very close. And you never know how your partner will behave... People can easily find the altitude affects them physiologically and psychologically. Here, as in the song of Vysotsky, “If a friend was suddenly not a friend, not an enemy, but - well, If you just cannot tell, if he is a bad or good – take him to the mountains ... take a chance.” You can see the parallel with climbing.

The Jeep safari is a challenge to common sense and a challenge to the nature. But at the same time, it is an opportunity for some to escape the reality of everyday life and spend an original weekend.

If you go, do not forget to take your camera, because the views are spectacular and it’s worth catching your Columbus-like adventure so that you can re-live the adrenaline rush for many years to come.

Sergey Lisunov

www.ocamagazine.com

49

book review Farideh Heyat’s new book, Land of Forty Tribes, is a scintillating story of love, adventure and cultural discoveries set in both Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, the heart of Central Asia. This is a unique book that tackles a range of subjects and it is noticeably semi-autobiographical in form.

Heyat is a writer and researcher born in Iran and based in London. She received her PhD in Anthropology from SOAS, University of London and also the author of Azeri Women in Transition: Women in Soviet and Post-Soviet Azerbaijan. She has written numerous articles on women in both Azerbaijan and Kyrgyzstan. Land of Forty Tribes, is based on her observations and experiences while working and travelling in Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, and her research on the history of Central Asia.

The Land of Forty Tribes

by Farideh Heyat Hard & soft back RRP: 14.95 GBP ISBN: 978-0-9930444-4-1 coming soon

ISBN 978-0-9930444-4-1

9 780993 044441 50

The similarities between the author and the book’s main character, Sima Omid, a British-Iranian anthropologist in search of her Turkic roots, are evident from the start. Taking on a university teaching post in Kyrgyzstan in the year after 9/11, she tries to get away from her disillusioned life in London. She is seeking love, but finds the foreign attitude of men having relationships with local women half their age aggressive and unpleasant. The local custom of bride kidnapping is equally distasteful, especially after she witnesses the kidnapping and subsequent murder of one of her students, soon after she arrives. When it is dismissed by one student as just part of Kyrgyz “culture”, this pushes Sima into a world of confusion and a desire to understand more.

The text flows well between many themes presented in the book. Visitors to the countries Sima visits will recognise them – the descriptions are accurate and at times bring our the humour required to get by when living there. The major characters in Kyrgyz and Uzbek history all appear in the text as do the social and political changes seen throughout the centuries.

Sima’s exploration of the spread of radical Islam and attendance at indoctrination meetings at the mosques reveal a shocking but deeply relevant storyline that emulates many of the issues of disaffected religious youth of today find. When Sima meets Suleiman, a much younger, married, Uzbek teacher, a bond develops and as their affair progresses she knows she must choose between the adventure of the unknown and the relative comfort of her old lover waiting for her return.

Sima’s observations not only illustrate the different lives and cultures, but wrestle with gender relations and the position of women in Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan. A further, unique aspect, to this new book is the connection made between the historical Iranian civilisation and Central Asia (for example the link with Zoroastrianism), which clearly comes from much of the author’s passion and professional research. All in all the book will be a delight for anyone wanting to explore the region more and the fact that the author has focused on telling as it is, good and bad, is a refreshing style. Its diary-like entries give it a realistic feel and carry the reader along Sima’s every step and thought, some obvious, others truly revealing.

www.ocamagazine.com

book review This extraordinary novel by Kyrgyzstan’s most esteemed, living author was greatly acclaimed when it was first published and deservedly, won several prestigious prizes in 2007, despite being unfinished. Eight years later and translated into English for the first time, it remains unfinished for reasons which will become obvious to the reader…

The novel focuses on the human ego and conflicts which arise, at every level and across the globe, when the ego rules over reason and justice.

The theme is universal and timeless, and over the course of mankind’s existence on Earth, has had a cruel and catastrophic impact on both our planet and the people who inhabit it.

Akmatov follows the fate of a Kyrgyz boy named Adilet whose life is transformed as he first becomes a student of Tibetan philosophy under the name of Mani Yaso and then emerges as the reincarnation of the ancient yogi, Saint Milarepa, whose quest it is to bring justice to the world through the temperance of people’s egos.

Akmatov’s skills as a storyteller, honed from an early age, through his love and knowledge of the “Manas” epic, fill this novel with a complex and colourful tapestry of inter-related tales which weave their way through time and space, peppered with references to Eastern mysticism, the Old Testament, Central Asian legends and folklore, contemporary western literature, astrology, global warming, politics and science fiction. It is a novel about injustice, fear, revenge and murder countered by trust, love, and above all, hope.

On his journey, which takes him from Tibet to India, Nepal, Paris, Moscow and Kyrgyzstan, Milarepa acquires supernatural powers and encounters both black and white magic, with serious consequences.

“Arhat” is a spellbinding tale which raises issues which relate uncomfortably to current affairs, with a twist at the end which illustrates that none of us is infallible.

Arhat

by Kazat Akmatov Soft back RRP: 17.50GBP ISBN: 978-0-9930444-6-5 coming soon

by Laura Hamilton

www.ocamagazine.com

51

food corner For too long now, Central Asia has been overlooked as a viable travel destination. Despite being at the heart of the ancient Silk Road trade for millennia and profoundly shaping the world we live in today, Central Asia remains one of the earth’s most misunderstood places. This book seeks to use food to provide you with a unique window into these fascinating, and largely unexplored cultures, and then equip you with the knowledge to cook up a little of Bukhara or Mary in your own kitchen. I want to help you use your taste buds to explore the richness of Central Asian history and tradition, and provide a gastronomic tour around cities that have played, and will continue to play, a key role in the region’s drama-laden narrative.

52

www.ocamagazine.com

100 Tasters of Central Asia FATIR Fatir is a unique, flaky, nutritious flatbread that is an integral part of the Tajik national dish Qurutob.

A bread that is similar to the Indian paratha, it serves as an example of the interconnectedness of various cooking practices throughout the larger Asian continent.

Ingredients 200g flour, sifted 1 tsp salt 30ml water 1 small egg 35g butter, room temperature 35g rendered lamb fat (or just more butter), room temperature 1 tsp sesame seeds Serves: 1 fatir Method Beat together the flour, salt, 30ml water and the egg, until dough forms. Knead until smooth, and shape the dough into a ball, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside for 30 minutes.

Place a baking dish full of water in an oven set to 230°C. On a floured surface, roll the dough to a 15 by 30cm rectangle. Cut it lengthwise into two long strips.

Mix together the butter and lamb fat, and spread on the dough. Roll the first strip up and wrap the second strip around it to create a fat, two-layered cylinder. Cover with cling-film, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Stand the cylinder of dough on a floured surface, and using the palm of your hand, gradually flatten the dough into a thick disc. Sprinkle the top and bottom generously with flour.

Prick the flatbread with a fork, creating a decorative pattern, sprinkle the sesame seeds on top, and gently press the seeds into the dough.

Transfer onto a baking sheet, and bake until the top is a golden brown colour (25-30 minutes). Allow to rest on a cooling rack before serving.

www.ocamagazine.com

53

Latest events from The European Azerbaijan Society Plight of the Khojaly Victims Highlighted in Across Europe As part of a pan-European set of TEAS events, on 16 February, the new independent documentary Endless Corridor was screened at the Hotel Le Royal located in the heart of Luxembourg.

The screening commemorated the victims of the Khojaly Massacre in 1992 – the worst single atrocity of the Armenian– Azerbaijani conflict over Nagorno-Karabakh – which claimed the lives of 613 civilian victims in 1992. The death toll included 106 women, 63 children and 70 elderly people. The evening also saw the launch of the book Khojaly Witness of a War Crime: Armenia in the Dock.

Speaking before the audience of 80 business people, students and press representatives, including Dr Marc Hübsch, President, Luxembourg–Azerbaijan Chamber of Commerce and Eva Rodick, General Secretary, Karabagh Cultural Association, Azerbaijan– Luxembourg. The evening began with comments from H.E. Fuad Isgandarov, Ambassador of the Republic of Azerbaijan to Belgium and the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg and Ambassador of the Republic of Azerbaijan to the EU. He said: “The Justice for Khojaly campaign is organising events of this kind across the world. Tonight’s film, Endless Corridor, is the best I have seen for explaining the Khojaly Massacre and outlining why we commemorate this day. I would also like to express my appreciation to TEAS for its role in organising the event.

“At the end of February, Azerbaijanis across the world commemorate what happened on that fateful night in Khojaly.

Azerbaijan is coming to Europe as a success, but its recent history needs to be understood to stop history repeating.

We paid a very high price for our freedom, and the Khojaly Massacre was part of that. Azerbaijan is one of the few countries in its neighbourhood to be truly free.

54

Despite the passing of four UN Security Council resolutions against the invasion, Armenia continues to occupy Nagorno-Karabakh and seven surrounding districts to this day.

Currently nearly 20 per cent of Azerbaijani territory remains occupied, and approximately 875,000 refugees and internally displaced persons (IDPs) remain spread across Azerbaijan.

The evening was dedicated to the memory of the Khojaly victims and those Azerbaijanis who have one wish – to return home.

On the same day, the documentary was also screened at an event held at The Light House Cinema in Dublin.

The next day the film was also shown in Ankara, Turkey, at the CerModern Museum of Modern Art. Speaking before the Turkish audience of 100 politicians, Ambassadors, Members of the Turkish Parliament, VIPs and press representatives, Sinan Oğan, Member of the Foreign Affairs Committee of the Turkish Parliament and MP for the Iğdır constituency, took the floor and encouraged Turks and the Turkish authorities to work towards ensuring that the there is greater awareness of the Khojaly tragedy across Turkey. He stressed the importance of undertaking research, writing and distributing information about Khojaly. He commented that such books as Khojaly Witness of a War Crime: Armenia in the Dock, should be widely distributed to universities, schools, libraries in Turkey. He said: “This massacre was not just directed towards Azerbaijanis – it was aimed at all the Turkic peoples.”

H.E. Faig Bagirov, Azerbaijani Ambassador to Turkey, said: “The injustice of what happened in Khojaly cannot be left unrecognised. Justice has to be sought and implemented.

The Justice for Khojaly campaign, initiated by Mrs Leyla Aliyeva, is successfully working towards that end.”

“I am a veteran of war. On 26 February 1992 I was in charge of escorting foreign journalists to see the aftermath of the Khojaly Massacre. I saw the murdered children and the other victims. I also saw the reaction of foreign journalists to this, and I knew that this message should be sent to new generations, not just in Azerbaijan, but across the world.”

Finally, Valeh Huseynov, a musician and survivor of the Khojaly Massacre, recounted in a moving testimony how he lost his wife during the Khojaly tragedy and was tortured by Armenian troops. He reminded all those in attendance that, despite Azerbaijan being the most developed country in the South Caucasus, and being able to return its occupied lands by all means, the country remains committed to peaceful resolution of the conflict.

Ian Peart, Project Co-ordinator, TEAS Baku, stated: “I am one of the editors of the book, Khojaly Witness of a War Crime; Armenia in the Dock. After meeting the people who were directly affected, your understanding goes to a different level.

The publication contains direct accounts, and not just statistics – these people are living with what happened 23 years ago.”

Lionel Zetter concluded: “The book, Khojaly Witness of a War Crime: Armenia in the Dock is the first independent publication about the Khojaly Massacre to be published in the West in English.

Unique in its presentation of irrefutable hard information, the book includes interviews with witnesses of the events in Khojaly, materials published in the international press,

www.ocamagazine.com

events the views of foreign researchers, reports from international organisations and rare pictures taken by international photographers.”

On 19 February 2015, the new independent documentary Endless Corridor was screened at the prestigious May Fair Hotel in the heart of the British capital.

H.E. Tahir Tagizadeh, Azerbaijani Ambassador to the UK, reflected: “Over 600 worlds were taken on that night, and honouring the victims’ memory brings back those worlds. It tells the story through very personal accounts – such as that of Valeh and the lady whose daughter was born against the backdrop of the conflict. I thank the director for his work. Over the years, I have been frequently asked why the Khojaly Massacre remains an important topic in Azerbaijan, and whether Azerbaijan seeks retribution. We are not seeking revenge – we want to administer justice, and that is the only guarantor against repetition of such events.”

Reflecting the ambiance of the Salle Mozart, constructed during the Age of the Enlightenment in the 18th century, the concert programme blended Azerbaijani and European classical and modern pieces, performed by two talented and internationally renowned Azerbaijani pianists who are long-term Paris residents – Renara Akhoundova and Saida Zulfugarova.

Renara focused on her own compositions, many of which take their point of departure from Azerbaijani folksong and mugham and are imbued with a spiritual dimension. One piece was entirely improvised, creatively channelling the thoughts and emotions of the audience as they reflected on the Khojaly Massacre. Saida Zulfugarova then joined Sarah Nemtanu (violin) and Alexander Somov (cello) to perform two classics from the Azerbaijani repertoire by Kara Karayev and her relative Ogtay Zulfugarov, in addition to works by Antonín Dvořák and Franz Schubert.

Upcoming Event A musical remembrance of the Khojaly victims in the heart of Strasbourg On 18 February 2015, a moving classical concert took place amidst the stunning surroundings of Strasbourg, in the beautiful Salle Mozart, in commemoration of the victims of the Khojaly Massacre in. More than 150 guests, including diplomats and representatives from international institutions, the private sector, civil society and media, attended the event.

H.E. Emin Eyyubov, Ambassador and Permanent Representative of the Republic of Azerbaijan to the Council of Europe said: “The Khojaly Massacre, committed by Armenia in 1992, was a crime against all Azerbaijanis. This was a cruel mass slaughter, and took the lives of innocent, defenceless, civilians. Mrs Leyla Aliyeva, Vice-President, Heydar Aliyev Foundation, launched the Justice for Khojaly international campaign in 2008 to increase international public knowledge of this tragedy.

Thanks to this campaign, the international community is being informed in detail about this crime – a massacre – committed by the Armenians.”

Marie-Laetitia Gourdin, Head, TEAS France, explained: “TEAS and the Azerbaijani Representation to the Council of Europe are proud to organise this event in memory of the Khojaly victims, within the framework of the Justice for Khojaly campaign. The rapid development of this campaign is a measure of international support for the restoration of justice in the region. This backing has been expressed at events in over 100 countries in Europe, America, Asia and Africa, and has come from individuals and international organisations, as well as states. TEAS is organising events within the Justice for Khojaly campaign in London, Paris, Brussels, Berlin, Bern, Dublin, Istanbul, Ankara, Rome, Luxembourg and Vilnius, in addition to tonight’s jointly-organised event in Strasbourg.”

23 April Netherlands–Azerbaijan Business Forum (Maastricht) Maastricht School of Management (MSM), Endepolsdomein 150, 6201 BE Maastricht 09.30–17.00hrs. Admission free.

Register at http://bit.ly/netherlandsazbf TEAS, in collaboration with the Dutch province of Limburg, Netherlands Council for Trade Promotion (NCH), and the Maastricht School of Management (MSM), is inviting Dutch and Azerbaijani companies to participate in the first Netherlands–Azerbaijan Business Forum. The forum will focus on the following sectors – agribusiness and logistics; chemicals and advanced materials; healthcare and life sciences; and water and waste management.

Currently, more than 100 Dutch companies are active in Azerbaijan, specialising in such sectors as services, trade, banking and insurance, industry, construction and transportation.

Moreover, Dutch companies are participating as contractors in three large-scale Azerbaijani State-funded projects worth $20.3m.

During the period 1995–2013, the Netherlands accounted for 9.1 per cent of foreign direct investment (FDI) into the Azerbaijani non-oil sector, equating to $668.3m. The Netherlands currently occupies fourth place in the non-oil sector FDI rankings after Turkey, the UK and US.

www.ocamagazine.com

55

events

BROWNE TALKS ALL THINGS KAZKAHSTAN In December 2014 the British Ambassador to Kazakhstan, Dr Carolyn Browne, spoke to CATBIG members. The meeting was convened to discuss the political, economic and commercial issues in Kazakhstan.

In order to promote fuller disclosure and discussion, the normal “Chatham House” rule applied.

Topics at the meeting focused on the enormous commercial Kazakh potential in many sectors, including energy, financial services, mining, agriculture, transport and infrastructure development. Dr Browne highlighted the importance given to Kazakhstan by the UK Government.

The UK is consistently among the top five investors in Kazakhstan, with about $15 billion of FDI flowing in since independence.

Dr Browne joined the FCO in 1985 and has served overseas in Moscow, New York, Brussels and most recently Baku as HM Ambassador.

BRITISH AMBASSADOR TO UZBEKISTAN LOOKS TO IMPROVE UK UZBEK RELATIONSHIP In February, CATBIG meeting participants got the opportunity to meet with the British Ambassador to Uzbekistan, George Edgar OBE. At the meeting attendees discussed working with the Uzbek Government on issues of importance to the UK and Uzbekistan. George Edgar spoke about work to further develop the bilateral relationship, including the growth of trade and investment relations, parliamentary relations and civil society, and building on existing strong links in the field of education. In the future he will be focusing in particular on developing a shared interest in building a stable future for the region and supporting the UK’s commitment.

AZERBAIJAN IN THE LOW OIL PRICE WORLD On Tuesday 10th March the CATBIG meeting invited the British Ambassador Irfan Siddiq OBE, HM Ambassador to Azerbaijan, for a discussion on the political, economic and commercial situation in Azerbaijan. It was an excellent opportunity to meet with the UK’s senior diplomat in the country.

Azerbaijan will see it’s international profile raised in June 2015 as it hosts the first European Games. A number of British companies have won contracts linked to the Games, and this and the prospect

56

of Azerbaijan hosting further major events will continue to offer a wide range of opportunities.

Azerbaijan’s wealth is of course very much founded on the oil and gas industry, so participants were interested to hear how the current world downturn in prices (and therefore investment) is impacting on the Azerbaijani economy and its diversification. As an emerging market Azerbaijan has not always been an easy market for UK companies, but the Government have been working on a number of business related issues, such that Azerbaijan has now improved to a ranking of 80 (out of 189) in the World Bank’s Ease of Doing Business index. However, the perception of corruption is still of major concern, with Transparency International’s Corruption Perception Index ranking Azerbaijan a lowly 126 (out of 175).

CONSPIRACY OF OBERON PRE-RELEASED A new Kazakh film, “Conspiracy of Oberon”, directed by Aidar Batalov has been released adding a new string to the bow of this industry trying to grow out of its infancy.

On 19th of November the thriller “Conspiracy of Oberon”, directed

by Aidar Batalov, was made available on pre-release to a select few.

At the press conference the production team, consisting of Aidar Batalov (director), Tasbolat Merekenov (producer), Erdos Tulegenov (actor), Gaidar Gilmanov (actor), Saltanat Newroz (actress), sought to promote the film and its unique plot.

“Conspiracy of Oberon” - is a breathtaking and action packed thriller film that impresses its audience with an exciting and intriguing plot and unexpected dramatic scenes. Watch out for its public release.

HAPPY 100TH IGOR SAVITSKY! Hertfordshire Press publishing house is holding a series of events dedicated to the anniversary of Igor Savitsky, the first of which took place on 11th February. Visitors enjoyed the screening of the film “The Desert of Forbidden Art” as well as a presentation of a biography of Igor Savitsky, the founder of the Savitsky Museum in Karakalpakstan (Uzbekistan).

www.ocamagazine.com

events

At the event Yurita Kalite presented biography of Igor Savitsky.

She spoke about the three key dimensions of Igor Savitsky’s life and contributions to the cultural history and life of Central Asia: his own career as an artist and painter of over 700 works; how he became a collector first of Khorezm antiquities and Karakalpak folk art then of proscribed avant garde art; and, finally, his role in founding and, for 18 years until his premature death in 1984, directing the museum that later was posthumously named after him.

ORZU ARTS Central Asian theatre company, ORZU Arts, put on two wonderful events to start the year.

In early January, Orzu Arts’ second show, Mejnun-Madman in Love, by the internationally celebrated Uzbek director, Ovlyakuli Khodjhakuli, is an increasingly impassioned celebration of calls from both West and East for greater tolerance and mutual understanding regardless of race, gender and religion.

The poetic sources are centuries old, but the message is both universal and contemporary: Mejnun reveals love as both man’s greatest achievement and his greatest challenge.

Mejnun opens with a humorous audience participation scene common in Uzbek theatre. Three classic stories follow, spoken in English and Uzbek in the Sufi manner, sometimes with ritual and dance. Exquisite hand painted costumes from Uzbekistan illustrate key elements from the show, including the Crusades, the Koran, Hafiz, the Kabbah of Mecca, Leyli & Mejnun, the Dervish, Love & Fire and the Sheikh in Love.

At the end of January, Orzu Arts’s 3nd Fundraising and Birthday Dinner Party Event was held. Last year significant progress by the theatre company was made when they staged and premiered a new show, The Transit Passenger, by Kazakh author Dulat Issabekov at London’s Lion and Unicorn theatre. Their leading actors, Mark Stanton and Kathy Trevelyan, appeared on Kazakh national TV. Orzu also participated at the Edipsos International Folk Dance Festival, and performed in Astana, at the Youth Theatre. Orzu Arts have been given a special

presents from mayor of Astana with good wishes for the future.

Their artistic director, Yuldosh Juraboev, travelled to Uzbekistan as Entertainment Manager with YPO 2014, in the summer of 2014 and staged several shows in the ancient cities of Khiva, Samarkand and Bukhara. They have been invited to Uzbekistan in April 2015 to perform two plays.

OVERCOMING THE CHALLENGE OF ATTRACTING INVESTMENT Bishkek hosts forum to discuss the high level of corruption and problems with the national administration that provide a barrier to attracting foreign investment.

On 17th October 2014, Bishkek hosted an economic forum in which organisers discussed the key issues of reforming a number of sectors of the Kyrgyz economy. The forum brought together experts from across the region, including form Mongolia and Georgia and was organised by the National Institute for Strategic Studies and CAFMI. The main panel discussions touched on the theme of efficiency of state regulation, entrepreneurial ecosystem in Kyrgyzstan, investment and social ecosystem. Currently, the investment situation in Kyrgyzstan is described by low investment and a high cost of borrowing.

The problems with investments in Kyrgyzstan necessitate rigorous independent risk assessment, though fortunately this is something that the leading rating agencies do provide and is an important prerequisite for attracting long-term foreign investment.

According to a member of the Board of Business Development and Investment of the Government of the Kyrgyz Republic, Aktilek Tungatarova, the major problem in attracting investment is a high level of corruption, as well as problems in national administration because the parliamentary system is new for Kyrgyzstan. He cited further reasons, including the fact that there is constant litigation between large companies (investors) and the Government of the Kyrgyz Republic.

The forum was attended by both Kyrgyz and international experts, representatives of business associations and governmental authorities.

Ann Lari & Anastasia Noskova

www.ocamagazine.com

57

obituary

In Memoriam Jack Rupert Hemsley 1943 - 2014

Jack Rupert Hemsley, a former editor of Open Central Asia and Dsicovery magazines and friend of Silk Road Media died on Saturday 29th November at home after a long illness. His wife and two daughters, Jasmine and Melissa, were caring for him till the end.

Silk Road Media’s publisher, Marat Akmedjanov, first met Hemsley in February 2009 in Almaty, where he was the Registrar at Haileybury Almaty and by all accounts was instrumental in setting up the international arms of the UK independent school, Haileybury College, in both Almaty (2008) and Astana (2011).

From June 2009 Hemsley became Silk Road Media’s consultant and representative in Almaty, working to promote the publications and projects in Kazakhstan. He provided invaluable advice on how to progress the publications and in April 2010 was appointed as the editor of both the Discovery Kyrgyzstan and Discovery Kazakhstan travel guides. In 2010, he represented Silk Road Media at the London Book Fair in order to encourage a wider interest and participation of tour companies and travellers in the region.

In May 2010 Hemsley also began editing Discovery Central Asia magazine and such was his enthusiasm for the project that in August 2010 he became the Contributing Editor of Open Central Asia magazine, both editing and writing selected articles on Central Asian events in London.

In January 2012 Hemsley was appointed Editor-in-Chief for Discovery Central Asia digest and made great improvements in the quality, content and direction of the magazine. As part of his role he visited Uzbekistan as part of a rare press tour of the country as the Silk Road Media representative.

Not long after he began to review books for Hertfordshire Press, the publishing imprint of Silk Road Media, giving much time and essential advice in helping launch the first few books.

Hemsley worked on various Silk Road Media projects until June 2014 and Akhmedjanov says of Hemsley, “We were lucky to have 5 very active and productive years with Jack. His contribution was a great help to SRM projects and building better connections and understanding between UK and Central Asia.”

Nick Rowan, Open Central Asia’s Editor-in-Chief, recalls, “Jack’s enthusiasm, professionalism and warm attitude to life made him such an enjoyable person to work with. He provided us with much support and his good humour and company will be sorely missed. We thank him for everything he has done with us.”

58

www.ocamagazine.com

100

of

EXPERIENCES KAZAKHSTAN

The original land of the nomads, landlocked Kazakhstan and its expansive steppes present an intriguing border between Europe and Asia. Dispel the notion of oil barons and Borat and be prepared for a warm welcome into a land full of contrasts. A visit to this newly independent country will transport you to a bygone era to discover a country full of wonders and legends.

Whether you are searching for the descendants of Genghis Khan who left his mark on this country seven hundred years ago or are looking to discover the futuristic architecture of its capital Astana, visitors cannot fail but be impressed by what they experience. For those seeking adventure, the formidable Altai and Tien Shan mountains provide challenges at all levels. Alternatively, really go off the beaten track and visit Kazakhstan’s industrial, agricultural and scientific legacies at Ekibastus, the remnants of the Aral Sea or the space launch centre at Baikonur. Bird and animal lovers will gloat over the diversity of species that can be seen from antelopes to flamingos. Above all, whether you are in cosmopolitan Almaty or out in the wilds of Western Kazakstan, you will come across a warm people, proud of the heritage and keen to show you a traditional country that is at the forefront of the region’s economic development.

Available on Amazon.co.uk, Amazon.com

ISBN: 978-0-9927873-5-6