F/W 2020-21 #17 - English

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CONTENTS 12

Editor’s Letter 8 The Natural - editorial 12 Coco Rocha - cover story interview with the top model 26 Back to Work - editorial 32 Fashion Trends what we're going to love this season 46 The Beautiful People - editorial 64 ART Exhibitions not to be missed 75 Timeless Youth - editorial 76 Digital and Art Exhibitions 86 Strawberry Fields - editorial 88 Fashion Future in a Digital Era 98 Home Office - editorial 102 Rebecca van Bergen from Nest talk to us about her ethic brand- interview 116 In conversation with future of music: Malou - interview 126 Ocean's Voice - editorial 140 Bonazzi of Aquafil talk to us about sustainable nylon - interview 154 New Luxury - editorial 158 BEAUTY Beauty products for this winter? The answer is Green Lines - 170 In conversation with Sanne Vloet from Izé Skincare - interview 180 Lines in the Sand - editorial 190 ACCESSORIES The perfect guide to what wear on this fall winter - 202 Reflection - editorial 208 PARADISE Our sustainable holiday: Discover with us top places to visit in Italy - 220 Runway Bride - editorial 226


EDITOR’S LETTER 102

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assword: Futurism 2.0. If in the twentieth century the new reality was speed, leading to a new artistic current, today we find ourselves more than ever in an unrepeatable historical moment that is inevitably creating enormous changes. Ours, at the moment, is defined as an uncertain future (but when is it ever certain?), and if it's true that we don't know how many job categories will be lost along the way, it's also true that every sudden swerve can also lead to new horizons. The important thing, as we know, is to be able to be multifaceted and not fossilize when something already programmed becomes utopia. This is our Futurism version 2.0 therefore, where the continuous growth of digital will be fighting (or maybe not) with a stop on this frantic search for speed at any cost. Editor-in-chief Facebook: @marta.forgione Instagram: @martaforgione

Marta Forgione


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Editor’s letter PRESIDENT, CHIEF EDITOR Marta Forgione m.forgione@latestmagazine.net Raimondo Scintu, 78 street- 00173 Rome (Italy) LAYOUT Marta Forgione CONTRIBUTORS: FASHION EDITOR Giulia Greco WRITERS Giulia Greco Ludovica Mucci Marta Forgione PHOTOGRAPHERS Oliver Beckmann, Matt Priestley Benjamin Vitti, Marta Forgione Fabrizio Martinelli, Liz van Campenhout Aldona Karczmarczyk, Frauke Fischer Patrick Schwalb, David PD Hyde PAAR Photography, Les Mijotés, Damian Weilers, Maria Dominika, Marina Vengut AGENCIES INVOLVED Heroes Models NY, Louisa Models Nina Klein, Bigoudi, Mirrrs Milk Model Management, Touche Models Elite Model World, Select Model London Elite Barcelona, Trend Model Management Frank Agency, Kasteel Artist Management S:Managment, Selective Management Warsaw The Wolves Agency, Independent Milano Wilma Wakker Model, Van Dorsen Artist ADVERTISING adv@latestmagazine.net Rome Italy 2020 | p.iva 15126391000 ROC registration n. 32682 Bi-annual publication by LATEST srls unipersonale in March/April and September/October. Printed by Facciotti s.n.c price on website latestmagazine.net: print IT €17 | EU,UK €20 | CH, NO €25 | US, CA €29 - digital €4


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The NATURAL Once again Nature is at the center of one of our photoshoot. Despite what many people think, Nature for us is more than a background. It is indeed protagonist. Thus, model and Nature around her that she belongs to - follow each other until merging together. Roles revers and a bunch of flowers pops out a trench. To feeling connected to Nature is an experience many are looking for now. Proximity is important: to feel the elements around us. Clothes then can bring us together even more, if chosen with care. Eco leather, cotton and shaved wool are a warm hug that makes us feel better and that should persuade us that, today more than ever, quality and respect come before anything else.

Photography Oliver Beckmann Style Elke Dostal c/o Nina Klein Model Priscilla c/o Mirrrs Hair Style, Makeup Jane Jakobi c/o Nina Klein Shot at Naked Studios


Dress Rotate Birger Christensen


Coat Working Title Opposite: Bra Jacquemus Pants Working Title


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Coat Kenzo Shirt Versace Shoes Bottega Veneta



Jacket Versace Pants Ganni Opposite: Top Nanushka



Jumpsuit Nobi Talai Boots Malone Souliers Opposite: Coat Salvatore Ferragamo


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Jacket, Skirt Vetements Shoes Prada


Coat Vetements Shoes Bottega Veneta


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Photography Matt Priestley Full Look Christian Siriano Hair Style, Makeup Coco Rocha

oco C ROCHA Among the rebellious and revolutionary figures of the fashion system, you probably remember Coco Rocha. The same girl that few days ago took a bath in the pool, closing Christin Siriano’s fashion show and the New York Fashion Week and who, at the beginning of her career, spoke out loud about the absurd and often harmful rules models and fashion workers have to submit to, in order to gain a place in the glittering fashion system. The gut is, obviously, the same and the top model is a bright example for people wishing to remain true to themselves without abdicating to the fashion dream. Her story may be the recipe for success. It is, for sure, inspiring.

interview by Giulia Greco - up to page 31

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It is an immense pleasure to speak with you and to be inspired, once again, by your presence, your values and your bright positivity. After many years in the field, your figure is more present than ever. We would dare to say that you are one of the only big names in the industry that has been able to remain true to herself. This is part of your charm and your power, together with your incredible character, of course. Thank you so much, it honestly means the world to hear that. One of my only goals in fashion has been to remain true to myself. I always wanted to be able to leave this industry, one day, happy with myself and who I am, and feeling like I'm older and wiser but still a person I recognize when I look in the mirror. I've made a number of difficult choices that I feared, or others told me I would lose my place in the industry but I'm pleasantly surprised to still be here and still be doing what I love. You started early arising awareness around certain topics: body shaming, anorexia, mental issues among others. Now the time has come for your voice to be heard (finally). Regarding such topics, do you feel more positive and more hopeful than before? Are we starting to change our perception at last? I always say that fashion is one of the most resistant industries to change. It's ironic because we claim to be all about the new, next best thing, but in reality we are far too stuck in our ways and fearful of changing the status quo. In my own small ways I've pushed for needed change for a long time and nearly often it's felt like pushing a boulder uphill. Over a decade ago, along with a few other top models, I spoke out on predators in the industry only to be largely ignored by those in power and blacklisted by others. It took a global movement like #MeToo in 2018 to really get those same decision makers to act in a way that common

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sense had dictated a long time ago. Today we are rehashing the call for more diversity in fashion, not only in images but also behind the scenes. Every major brand, editor-in-chief and CEO is posting on instagram that they are "listening and learning". How are they just learning this? Where have they been for the last 10, 25 or 50 years? It's shameful and frustrating. I don't put too much hope in this generation of industry leaders. They very rarely lead, only react. Speaking about hope, you and your husband run Nomad Model Agency and Coco Rocha Model Camp. They try to bring warmth and humanity into the business, and taking care of your models/students is an imperative. They are also a good example of inclusivity and respect. Would you describe your work there as your legacy? I think it goes back to what we were talking about. In speaking out, often to deaf ears, I realized I would have to change my own little corner of the fashion industry myself, no one above me was going to do it for me. A few years ago I decided I wanted to create a modeling agency where the models feel safe and protected and launching Nomad MGMT in 2016 has been a way for me to try to take some control back for myself, and for others. Creating a company that represents and protects its models in a more thoughtful and caring way has always been our main concern and we hope others notice and imitate that attitude. Coco Rocha Model Camp is an extension of that. I've now directly taught over 900 models through the program, not only pose and runway, but also their rights as models, how to stand up for themselves as women and business owners, and how to stand up for each other. Every girl that comes to camp I think can make a tiny ripple of good in this industry, and when you timed that by 1000, the ripple can become a tidal wave.


Total Look Miu Miu


In the last period you have been forced to give your lessons online. Do you like it? Yes we quickly switched gears in March to teach online classrooms and it has been wonderful. It's not the same experience as the in-person camps in New York but for me and the models it has been cathartic and productive. We will start up our first in person camps again in July and I have not decided whether or not I'll keep the online version of the camp. You seem to be very comfortable with digital media (your Instagram feed and TikTok engagement speak for you). What is the best thing digitalization can bring to the fashion industry, also according to your own experience? I think social media is like a megaphone, and now that we have it, I think its important to think about how we use it. Social media can be fun and frivolous, and that's fine, but as we have seen lately, it can also be used to educate and enact real change. Social media brought a big deal of democratization into the fashion world. Nowadays, everybody in possession of a phone is able to create content and this is very good and dangerous at the same time. Do we need education on how to use our image in the public space? Especially for younger generations, which “go online” at a very early stage. I actually think the younger generation is much better at curating a professional social media persona than my generation was in the early 2000's. I think they know exactly how to use it, it's the older folks who need to keep up. Influencers, but also models, VIPs etc, have a huge impact on their audiences. How is it for you? Do you feel pressure in being exposed everyday, and do you feel the responsibility of influencing so many people? I don't really think in terms of numbers. I suppose if I did it would be overwhelming. I had a few tiktok

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videos get 5-7 million views lately, when I think about it, its a staggering number. I think if it's a million people online or just a room full of 10 people I still want to be a good example and help others if I can. To be part of the fashion system usually means to compromise, but you are famous because of your strict position on certain topics. You never abdicated from your values and ideas in order to please the industry. This is probably the recipe for success. People like coherence, don’t they? It all depends on the definition of success. I have turned down more money than I've made and I've said no to more jobs than I have agreed to, all because I didn't feel like it fit with my values or world view. If money and jobs were the measure of success then I don't know if I have really succeeded. But I think if sticking true to yourself is a measure of success, then I do feel successful. Such non-conforming attitude also gives strength to all of the people out there that love fashion and believe in sustainability and ethics. They are usually scared and confused, because it often seems impossible to put these two concepts together. A sort of contradiction in terms. In the end, only ethical decisions are truly sustainable, and if fashion wants to survive, if we all want to survive, we are going to have to realize that. On the other hand, Do you think the fashion system has lost some of its liveliness in the last period, because of all the awareness that has been raised regarding social and environmental issues? Fashion can be both a wonderful escape and a sharp analysis of our reality (not always flattering). I think in general fashion has lost its luster. It used to be such a shining city on the hill. Everyone looked up to fashion as an inspiration, as a force pushing us forward and allowing us to escape. Now they look at it as holding the world back in many ways and trapping us in ways that are outdated and often destructive.


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back to work

Postponed fashion shows, live streamed runways, face masks on the sets, antibacterial gel between a look and the other, when will we be free to travel for work again and shoot in open places? For the professionals who went back to team work - for real, in presence - precautions are never enough. While we are waiting to see what is going to happen, let’s think about what has changed and what has not. What is the task of people who does fashion and communicate it? Despite it is comforting to go back to habits abruptly abandoned last March, the least we can do today is to question their legitimacy. Several designer have already done it, asking themselves if it is okay to produce so many collections, with so many pieces and with so tight rhythm. In addition to the abundance of ready garments, creatives are trying to reduce raw materials’ waste, using more discarded cloths for example. Topics are countless and everybody face them according to its own possibilities. We, working in communication, promise to create and share committed, honest and useful contents only. We want to preserve the Beauty of an art - fashion - we deeply love and respect, but we also want to left behind, without regret, harmful traditions.

Photography Benjamin Vitti Style Vittoria Rossi Provesi Model Justyna Maks c/o The Wolves Agency Style Assistant Irene Zucchiatti Hair Style, Makeup Eleonora Juglair Fashion Collaboraction Giacomo Dini


Dress, shirt Simon cracker / Monica Mazzanti Shoes Fabio Rusconi /s2b


Top, upper skirt Gilberto Calzolari / Guitar Shoes Fabio Rusconi/s2b Jewels Rosantica Opposite: Body Ssheena Trousers, crown Selenia Spronato


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Trench Humptydum Dress Romeo Gigli / Teresa La Fosca Jewels Rosantica Sunglasses MaxMara/ Safilo Opposite: Dress, t-shirt Sara Severini Jewels Rosantica




Faux Fur jacket Oof / Guitar Trousers Anye by / Guitar Hat Pasquale Bonfilio Opposite: Suit Ssheena Shoes Fabio Rusconi / s2b Bag, jewels Rosantica

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Dress Miaoran Shoes Simon Cracker / Monica Mazzanti Jewel-headband Rosantica


Corset, trousers Romeo Gigli / Teresa La Fosca Shirt Phillip Lim / Zalando / Maria Licci Shoes Fabio rusconi / s2b Jewels Rosantica Hat Pasquale Bonfilio Opposite: Blazer Simon Cracker / Monica Mazzanti Hat Pasquale Bonfilio


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Trench, skirt Romeo Gigli / Teresa la fosca Shoes Vic MatiĂŠ / Guitar Jewels Rosantica Sunglasses Missoni / Safilo Opposite: Dress Salvatore Vignola Shirt Judy zhang / Teresa La Fosca Shoes Fabio Rusconi/s2b Jewels Marina fossati Sunglasses Carrera /Safilo



must have words Giulia Greco

Autumn is here again and a quite unconventional year comes to its final stage. It is time for some relief, especially for the ones working in the fashion system, which has been particularly shaken. Future is still uncertain, but going back to the usual routine and appointments can help us feeling better. So, here we are with new seasonal trends, which bring along a wave of wellness to us writing, but also to our readers. Nothing compares new season’s excitement in the fashion field, with its colours and its fabrics, with the adrenaline and the endless possibilities new beginnings always have. In the latest period, the monolithic institution of trends has experimented changes too, as much as anything else. First of all, they last longer. If we want to build a better future, trends are the starting point when it comes to fashion, in order to reduce waste and buy less but better. Our choices are smart and chameleonic, they survive seasons and can adapt to different looks and occasions. You can wear a fluffy sweater in the evening and then pair it with a white shirt the day after at the office. Edgy combinations can be softened with tailored garments, such as a lace bodice worn with a pair of wool gabardine trousers. However things do not get boring, on the contrary. The new season prefers strong tones, literally speaking and not. Colours and prints go together without following strict rules: we can’t wait to wear white in winter and colour block outfits are coming back stronger than ever. Fabrics and shapes are just as good. Velvet is protagonist, together with leather (in each colour you may like) and shearling. Fringes are everywhere and sequin too. The real passe-partout are accessories and jewelry: if well chosen they'll stay with you all life long. Thank to them we can redefine our perception of genre and feminism, with a general going back to uncompromised femininity. Trends fall winter 2020


VELVET

4. We fell in love with this Prada dress since the first time we spotted it on the runway. It is easy in the cut, but with a profound colour which becomes precious thank to the soft velvet of the fabric. With the right accessories it can be worn both in the evening and during the day. Here you have a pair of listed white sandals by By Far, and some incredible jewels by Charlotte Chesnais, made with innovative shapes and the contrast between gold and silver. The lingerie must be on point. Slips have to be accommodating, following the shapes of the body naturally, while the bra must have smart strap, in order not to be seen. Marika Vera’s set is perfect.

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1. Dries Van Noten FW20-21 Runway show | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Prada velvet dress seen at mytheresa.com 3,5. Marika Vera Naomi stretch-tulle soft-cup bra and cutout briefs seen at net-a-porter.com 4,7. Charlotte Chesnais ring and earrings seen at farfetch.com 6. By Far sandals

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DOWN JACKET

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Two years ago, down jackets made their comeback and they seem to be more in trend than ever this winter. It has always been associated with a sportive style, and now it is the number one trend. Moncler’s Genius line was a turning point, of course: the collaboration has been the first one giving light to down jacket, which became funny, feminine, over the top. The one we offer you is from Prada and it fits perfectly both in the city and during a sky holiday. The look is easy but sophisticated. The sweater is by ARCH4, in 100% cashmere, while jeans comes from Totême. As usual, the attention goes to details. Watch and belt are both Salvatore Ferragamo. Socks are thick wand slightly tom boy.

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1. Moncler for Simone Rocha FW20-21 courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Toteme Studio high-rise straight-leg jeans seen at net-a-porter.com 3. Prada down nylon gabardine jacket seen at mytheresa.com 4. Undercover socks seen at farfetch.com 5. Arch4 Glenda cashmere sweater seen at net-a-porter.com 6. Salvatore Ferragamo watch seen at farfetch.com 7.Salvatore Ferragamo reversible belt seen at farfetch.com Opposite: #lookoftheeditor Signature 8 Fringed jeans dress


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SHEARLING

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If you add vintage spirit + maxi volumes + comfort and coziness, you’ll have as a result the best coat for winter 2021 - but also for the next to come. Shearling jacket is back. Sheep fur, to be worn on the outside or on the inside, never really went away, from the 70s until today. It is likely you would find it in the wardrobe (yours or your mothers). If you do not posses it by inheritance, you can probably find it in a vintage store of your town. The shearling jacket usually requires a casual outfit to go with, like a pair of jeans and a t-shirt. Here you have R13’s denim, with asymmetric closure, and an Acne Studios’ t-shirt, whose print is made in collaboration with the British artisti Lydia Blakeley.

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7. Larsson & Jennings, watch €162 seen at farfetch.com

1. Etro runway SS20 show ph. Alessandro Lucioni / gorunway.com 2. Simone1.Rocha cotton MODE dress seen at modaoperandi.com A.W.A.K.E. FW20-21 show ph. Alessandro Lucioni / gorunway.com 3. Roxanne Assoulin gold platedshearling braceletscoat seenseen at modaoperandi.com 2. Simonetta Ravizza at farfetch.com 4. Miu Miu velvetCrossover flats seenasymmetric at modaoperandi.com 3. R13 distressed high-rise wide-leg jeans seen at net-a-porter.com 5. Kayu Onie WickerJoy Top-Handle Bag seen at modaoperandi.com 4. Melissa Manning 14-karat gold & sterling silver, coral & jasper earrings seen at net-a-porter.com 6. Prada Flower Rasocotton Mini Top Handle seen at modaoperandi.com 5. AcneEmbellished Studios printed jersey t-shirtBag seen at mytheresa.com Opposite:6.River Island dress Gia Couture square toe boots seen at farfetch.com 7. Missoni striped scarf seen at farfetch.com Opposite: #lookoftheeditor Noisy May Nmgabi Jacket | Emory Park Jumpsuit | Depp Leather Sabot | Crap Eyewear Sunglasses p.119 p.71 p.15 p.77 p.51


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FRINGES

As we said in the beginning, there is only one thing that conquered every one. Fringes. On skirts, gowns, blazers, bags, basically every where. They are also very easy to decline. In suede for a cowboy look, or in laser cut leather for a minimal style, or again in colourful wool. Charles Jeffry Loverboy’s sweater has an irreverent soul. We want to wear it with an underground look, with black jeans and black bucket hat, by Off-White. The shoes are the cool version of the childish one every little girl wear at one point, but in cocco leather and with tight sole.

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1. Roksanda runway FW20-21 show | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Offwhite logo cotton bucket hat seen at mytheresa.com 3. Joseph oversized cotton shirt seen at mytheresa.com 4. Balenciaga low rise wide leg cropped jeans seen at mytheresa.com 5. Burberry croc effect leather flats seen at mytheresa.com 6. Charles Jeffrey fringed sweater seen at farfetch.com 7. Loewe small leather shoulder bag seen at mytheresa.com Opposite: #lookoftheeditor Signature 8 Fringed jeans dress


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BIKER

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Despite the majority of trends focus on bon ton and princess-like attire, biker style is rocking on the runway. Green light to leather, striped boots and appropriate trousers, with well visible kneepads. Our look is a reinterpretation of that style based on the wonderful white leather jacket by Balenciaga, which is longer than its traditional version but has the same appeal. The jumpsuit is from Rick Owens’ latest show and our suggestion is to stick it into the boots, which are another big trend. They should be higher than the ankles, with a big sole and a military soul.

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1. Fendi runway FW20-21 show | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Mikita x Maison Margiela sunglasses seen at farfetch.com 3. Christian Louboutin rouge nail polish seen at net-a-porter.com 4. Rick Owens cord cotton jumpsuit seen at mytheresa.com 5. Tol sunglasses chainseen at farfetch.com 6. Balenciaga leather jacket seen at mytheresa.com 7. Gianvito Rossi oversized leather ankle boots seen at net-a-porter.com Opposite: #lookoftheeditor River Island Jumpsuit | Public Desire Survivor Chunky Boots


Larsson & Jennings, watch â‚Ź162 seen at farfetch.com

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MAXI SHOULDER STRAPS

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If you are getting ready for a smart-working- winter, blouses and cathcy sweaters are a must. Maxi shoulders are still in the top ten of winter trend. They are not only the best garment if you want to stand out on the screen, but they also give us a good dosage of self-confidence, which is so important for the restart. This is not only a style advice then, but an energy prescription, useful to start the new year with the right foot. Lastly, trousers and slippers play with comfort, while jewels enlighten the face. Quite Quiet’s necklace is adjustable and can be used in different combinations, essential and beautiful. Do you need anything else?

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1. Givenchy runway FW20-21 show | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Quite Quiet Steel Collier+Woven Gold Extension seen at quite-quiet.com 3. Theory crepe flared pants seen at net-a-porter.com 4. Melissa Keye 18kt gold ear cuff with diamonds seen at mytheresa.com 5. Bottega Veneta round-frame gold-tone & acetate optical glasses seen at net-a-porter.com 6. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini sweater seen at luisaviaroma.com 7. Simone Rocha synthetic fur leather sandals seen at mytheresa.com


CAPE

Let’s talk about outerwear then. The cape is the essential one for Fall Winter 2020. Last February we had plenty on the runways, in every possible material and every possible length. Our favourite is signed by Isabel Marant, and it is soft and warm. To be safe against the cold you can also wear a big scarf and fasten both with a brooch. This one is by Loewe and it is just beautiful in its essentiality, but you can easily find unique ones in every vintage market. Red is one of the coolest colour for the upcoming season. You may think red stockings are way too much, but if paired with ton-sur-ton pumps and no-frills dress you will have a winning outfit.

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1. Paco Rabanne runway FW20-21 show | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Bottega Veneta chain embellished knitted midi dress seen at net-a-porter.com 3. Junya Watanabe red stockings seen at farfetch.com 4. Schutz red pumps seen at farfetch.com 5. Isabel Marant hooded cotton poncho seen at mytheresa.com 6. Loewe gold plated logo brooch seen at mytheresa.com

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EARTH COLOURS

Browns’ palette is usual during Fall. If paired with yellow ochre, warm orange and brick-red, it rimes with nature when makes itself ready for Winter. Its neutral colours are a trend likely to stay with us, because the fashion system is looking for simplicity and clean elegance. Be careful tough: brown can be a tricky colour and it must be chosen accordingly to your skin type. Once you have it, do layer your browns in the same look. Our pants and shirt are 100% silk by Matteau: their natural motif is the focus of the whole. To accompany them, a maxi coat and a pair of white simple sneakers, by Common Project.

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1. Lemaire runway FW20-21 show | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Common Project sneakers seen at farfetch.com 3. Dries van Noten alpaca and wool twill coat seen at mytheresa.com 4. Matteau flowers trousers seen at farfetch.com 5. Loro Piana fedora hat seen at mytheresa.com 6. Matteau flowers shirt seen at farfetch.com 7. Acne Studios Masubi mini bag seen at farfetch.com Opposite: #lookoftheeditor Trendyol Long Dress | Only Drapy Coat | Anna Field Thigh High Boots | Sweet Deluxe Fake Pearl and Chains Earrings


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SEQUIN

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If you are already thinking how to survive to the upcoming festive season (gala dinner and glittering party socialdistancing-proof) the piece for you is a sequin skirt, like this one by Gucci. The perfect match is with a soft wool sweater in a neutral colour, casual and comfy at the same time. The contrast does nothing but exalt the two fabrics, and the final look is catchy without screaming. Matchy necklace and bracelet are an old style must (the very famous parure), and so are the maxi pearls by Simone Rocha. Still, their vintage aura makes the ensemble sophisticated.

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1. Bottega Veneta runway FW20-21 show | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Simone Rocha faux pearl bracelet seen at mytheresa.com 3. Gucci sequin midi skirt seen at mytheresa.com 4. Vapour Beauty elixir gloss seen at net-a-porter.com 5. Simone Rocha faux pearl necklace seen at mytheresa.com 6. Nina Ricci cropped cable knit mohair blend vest seen at net-a-porter.com 7. Malone Suliers pumps seen at farfetch.com Opposite: #lookoftheeditor Rahi sequin dress | Simmi London gold coloured chains sandals p.128


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MISTRESS 2.0

Future fashion plays on the idea of gender, mixing feminine and masculine, pure line and fleshy see-through. Lingerie is now visible, in a quite explicit way, and it is matched with outfits which support its seductive power. In our look Dolce&Gabbana’s corset is worn with a pair of tailored Saint Laurent’s trousers and mistress’ like accessories: over the knee high boots, as we have seen on the runways, and a sinuous bodychain. Take care of your skin, especially neck and shoulders. You can use a hydrating fluid to illuminate. It is vegan and organic.

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1. Saint Laurent runway FW20-21 show | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. French Girl organics/lumiere bronzee shimmer oil seen at net-a-port.com 3. Alessandra Rich crystal embellished body chain seen at mytheresa.com 4. Saint Laurent shorts seen at luisaviaroma.com 5. Nabla eyeliner “cupid's arrow longwear stylo” seen at luisaviaroma.com 6. Dolce & Gabbana lace bustier seen at mytheresa.com 7. Alexander McQueen leather 105mm boots seen at luisaviaroma.com


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1. Dulcin in fundo, fashion is not only smart outfit and comfy pieces. Let’s have some fun with some organza skirts and voluminous maxi dresses. Our look is composed of a midi skirt in silky embroidery crêpe by Chloe, which, with its neutral colour, goes perfectly with the bright purple pumps by Jennifer Chamandi and Sabinna’s sweater, made in natural fibers and entirely made in Europe. You won’t go unnoticed, but Fall Winter 2020 runways want excatly this. The crazy-princess trend is strong and made to last: from Cecile Bahnsen to Molly Goddard, our advice is to always go big (or go home).

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1. Gucci runway FW20-21 show | courtesy tag-walk.com 2. Fred Leighton 18-karat gold amethyst earrings seen at net-a-porter.com 3. Rosantica faux pearl-embellished iPhone 11 case seen at net-a-porter.com 4. Chloé Broderie anglaise silk-crepon midi skirt seen at net-a-porter.com 5. Jennifer Behr hammered stretch-silk hair tie seen at net-a-porter.com 6. Sabinna Mina cardigan seen at sabinna.com 7. Jennifer Chamandi pumps with back strap seen at farfetch.com

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he tBEAUTIFUL people While Fashion seeks new types of aesthetic and gradually challenges the idea of perfection that has dominated over its production for decades, the cultural debate on beauty languishes and the public splits. The politically-correct trend seems not have that appealing anymore and even the most engaged have difficulties in understanding and getting used to Gucci’s provocative campaigns, for example, or Vetements’ deformations. To individuate the mental schemes that bond us to outdate aesthetic models is not an easy task. They seem to belong to the most hidden part of ourselves, not reachable nor changeable, especially because they are continually reinforced. We face every day perfect bodies on Instagram posts, while filters allow us to soften the peculiarities of our faces and even change the colour of our eyes. Magazines and newspapers suggest us the best ways to have smooth skin, or the fastest diet to lose weight or, again, how to emphasize our appearance and get complimented in the office. In television, the culture of beauty is supreme, constantly reminding us that a woman (possibly wearing little clothes) is always the best entertainment. At the very beginning of this aesthetic dictatorship we find the unpunished intrusiveness of the gaze, the male one of course. It sits in judgement of what is beautiful and what is not, basing all its decision on its personal pleasure only. For this reason pop culture understands not much about Fashion that, on the contrary, defends women’s natural right of feeling good without showing, feeling beautiful without modifications and feeling desired without tricks. And if Fashion is going straight for its path, trying to set us free from the ugliness of beauty, we have the duty to live like rebels, never accepting the role of pleasurable leisure that male gaze reserved for us. Quoting a song from the 90s, let’s ask ourselves “Hey you, what do you see? Something beautiful or something free?” hoping that, in the future, the two can coincide.


Photography Fabrizio Martinelli Style Federica Reali Model Noemi Ercolani c/o Independent Milano Makeup, Hair Style Erica Peschiera

Patchwork silk dress with metal details Marni Knight leggings MRZ


Wool sleeves Maison Margiela Underwear, Skirt Giorgia Andreazza Tights Emilio Cavallini


Opposite: Jacket, Trousers Acne Studios | Shoes Salar (S2b) | Belt Skirt Chopova Lowena | Rings Anamè | Earrings, Necklace Vanesi | Glasses Yvmin

Blazer Acne Studios | Shoes Salar | Belt Skirt Chopova Lowena | Jewels Vanesi



Top, Bra Giorgia Andreazza Tights Emilio Cavallini Shoes Balenciaga

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Knight dress Bottega Veneta Gum boots Bottega Veneta Opposite: Velvet jacquard dress, Silk pants Acne Studios


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See-through shirt Maison Margiela Bra Giorgia Andreazza Pants YProject Tights Emilio Cavallini Opposite: Silk pants Acne Studios


NEST.CO/UK

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LATEST art words Giulia Greco Fast Fashion: the Dark Side of Fashion Museum Europaischer Kulturen in collaboration with the Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe Hamburg, Berlin - 27/09, 31/01/2021 How many of you knew that 2700 liters of water are needed in order to produce a single t-shirt? And that Berlin is the most active city in the world about slow fashion and its promotion - with dedicated hubs and fairs and bright ideas on how to change the system on several levels? What we learn every day on this topic is of main importance, for us and our future. You can visit the dedicated exhibition in Berlin until January 2021, and discover the “Dark Side(s) of Fashion”. It’s divided in two sections. On one side the current reality of (Fast) fashion and its polluting and unethical approach to business. On the other one, the raising slow fashion market in Berlin, which has the wellbeing of our planet and people living in it at the core of its philosophy. 45 Stories In Jewelry Museum of Art and Design, New York - 17/09, 24/01/2021 The Museum of Art and Design in New York City boasts an extensive story of support of jewelry. Since its foundation in 1956, jewels have been considered by curators as a form of art in its own right. Up to now, the Museum has hosted 150 exhibitions on jewelry: 45 Stories In Jewelry is the number 151. It is the unmissable occasion to dive into jewelry’s story and to admire unique pieces, but also to explore the concept of jewels as “wearable” art. This is a quite old idea, which is today more relevant than ever. Jewels are indeed able to speak to everyone of us, no matter our social background or religious belief: it is a pervasive medium, with a very strong story, which is, after all, the story of humanity itself.

Man Ray et la Mode Musée du Luxembourg, Paris - 23/09, 17/01/2021 Man Ray has been one of that eclectic figure whose life is totally dedicated to art. For people like him a single medium is usually not enough and their creativity expand and they paint, they photograph, they write and play without solution of continuity. Man Ray’s work moves between dadaism, of which he has been one of the main exponent in the US, and surrealism, perfectly condensed in his photographic production. The Musée du Luxembourg dedicates an exhibition to Man Ray photographer and focuses on its fashion photographies, which have been featured in the biggest international magazines with the best couturiers in the world. In Man Ray’s photos fashion appears for what it is. Amusement, exploration and otherworldly beauty. Magic avant-guard escapism.

Masculinities Fashion & Lace Museum, Bruxelles - 28/08, 13/06/2021 Fashion creates and destroys all the time, especially when we speak of genre stereotypes. Female clothing codes are at the center of the debate since many decades now, while very little space has been dedicated to its male counterpart. Masculinities is open until next June at the Fashion and Lace Museum in Bruxelles. It enlightens us on the concept of masculinity, the stereotypes linked with it and its evolution, from the XVIII century until today’s unprecedented fluidity. It is a chance for us to explore a topic usually discarded, which is now of very much interest. Not only because of the number of male (young) consumers is rising every day more, but also because it is important to us to know the evolution of things in order to change them.

courtesy of luxiders.com

Courtesy of madmuseum.org | 45 stories in jewelry

© ph. Laurent P | sortiraparis.com | Man Ray et la Mode

courtesy tekdeeps.com | ‘Masculinities’ in the Fashion and Lace Museum

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Timeless youth Photographs and paintings share the same basic characteristic, which is stillness. They be the same forever and nothing really happens inside them , even if the artist tried to reproduce movement. There always is a detail though, that opens up a hole in the picture, and it's usually the place where you find the highest emotive component. In the case of an human subject, that detail are the eyes. In the stillness of past months, we had the chance to look inside us and to feel the interior turmoil of our spirit - always moving, always changing. We wish you to start a journey back into you in order to discover and understand, even the smallest and hidden parts of your character and consequently fully live every thing may occur to you. At the end of the process, you will discover that the external time does not wight on you anymore, but you are moving on your own personal rhythm. It flows from you and change your presence in the world, the way you occupy space and engage with things.


Photography Liz van Campenhout Style Inge de Lange Model Dante c/o Wilma Wakker Models Makeup, Hair Style Ellen van Exter Location Huis van de Burgemeester



Opening: Suit Edwin Oudshoorn |Here: Dress Elzinga | Shoes Tamaris Opposite: Dress Elzinga

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Dress Christian Wijnants | Coat Frenken

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Dress Frenken | Shoes Tamaris Opposite: Suit Steven van de Ryt | Top Benchellal | Shoes Tamaris



Suit Steven van de Ryt | Top Benchellal | Shoes Tamaris


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The Future of Art Exhibitions in the Digital Age In 1964 Marshal McLuhan published his Understanding Media: the Extension of Man, and gifted us with some of the most smart and precious theories on media and communication. In the 60s the television had just landed in our living rooms - not in everybody’s house and not for everybody in colours - scholars were worried about the future of radio and digital media looked far away in the future. Even then McLuhan, whose life has been dedicated completely to the topic, had been able to predict developments he did not later witness. The main theory in Understanding Media is that “the medium is the message”. It sounds cryptic but it is not. What McLuhan meant is that, when considering media’s influence on society, we should always take into consideration the medium itself first: not its content (what it says, the message it conveys, the plain news) but rather the way it passes it. Each medium is different from the others and its peculiar structure directly affects the messages and the way the audience receives them. Thus, to write to a friend an email or a letter is different, as much as to listen to news on television is not the same as reading newspapers, and so on. The advent of digital media has shaken the balance at the very bottom. Everything has been swallowed up by Internet and contents have changed too. This year, fashion shows (which are now mostly live streamed and whose future is still unpredictable) have been followed p.86

by museums, that are having a hard time reorganizing their exhibitions after the lockdown happened and the social distancing norms were issued. Several entities are reopening, taking also the chance to sell some artistic face masks in their shops in the meanwhile. Others are debating the pros and the cons. It is possible they will decide to invest in digital, pushing online visits and activities while empowering their social media presence. For now, the two realities will coexist (a controlled and gradual open up to visitors coinciding with a wider offer of web-contents) but it is likely that physical museums, made of buildings, rooms and artworks, will gradually step back. As it is for fashion weeks and elementary schools, to reinforce remote-use-devices presents several advantages. Contents are available to everyone, everywhere and at everytime. As well as horizontal, this ubiquity also develops vertically. Digital media can indeed engage anyone, also the less interested groups of people in society. Young generations, for instance, get to discover applied art because of the use of screens and VR (virtual reality), which easily boost their interest. Every visit can be tailored according to one’s preferences and every art piece - but also its author and the process behind it - can be studied and known in detail. Digitalization of museums and exhibitions offers a type of fruition elevated to the square, a much more advanced experience than the one we are used to.


We also have to consider that the continuous exposition to the public can be dangerous to some arts, while virtual visits would allow to keep paintings, tapestries and antiquities safe and sound in dark and refreshed rooms. Last October the Louvre in Paris launched such a project, called Mona Lisa: beyond the Glass. It gives to the audience the chance to know and understand Leonardo’s masterpiece as we never did before. I do remember the first time I saw the Mona Lisa. It was 2013 and when I entered the Salle des États, there it was in front of me, small and harmless on the dedicated black wall, at the very center of an incredible and deep room. My heart skipped a beat, a sensation hard to explain - also because of the relatively small dimension of the painting in comparison to other ones hosted in the museum - and especially hard to replicate. I wonder if, after all, museum and exhibitions are meant to inspire us, excite us rather than educate us. What is left to say then? Our experience so far taught us that digitalization has countless possibilities, but has not been able yet to replicate presence, the sharing of space that, for works of art, cinema screens and human relations makes all the difference. This is probably the biggest challenge future engineers and IT developers have to face. We, writers but also readers, have instead the task of protect our own critical thinking. To reduce all our experiences to a screen, be it of a smartphone, a tablet or a computer, seems to be good, but it changes deeply the way we look at the world around us. Maybe it is the lack of magic, a smaller degree of suggestions. Things we still desperately need.

LATEST interview LATEST art words Federica Caiazzo words Giulia Greco courtesy of insidemagritte.com | Experience Room Magritte Exhibition

Courtesy of officialbespoke.com | Atelier des Lumières Van Gogh Exhibition

© ph. Tobias Wootton | “Digital Imaginaries – Africas in Production” at ZKM

courtesy macitynet.it | Invisible archeology at the Egyptian Museum of Turin

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STRAWBERRY

Fields

Photography Aldona Karczmarczyk Production Van Dorsen Artist Style Kasia Łaszcz Model Daria Zhalina c/o Selective Management Warsaw Hair Style Emil Zed Makeup Aga Wilk

When, at the beginning of the XX century, photography took off, a new esthetic and cultural movement was in the process of processed. It was Surrealism, which eventually gained a manifesto in 1924 (thanks to Andrè Breton), rooted Dadaism and in Sigmund Freud’s studies on psychoanalysis. The temporal alignment brought together photography and surrealism and gave life to a strong and persistent artistic movement. Quite an odd union at first sight, the one between the photographic medium and surrealism. The former depends intrinsically on reality: we can photograph only what exists and film, paper-made-mirror of the world, is the final result of light and materiality together. On the other side, surrealism is based on the idea that there is something beyond what is tangible. The dream, the unconscious, the instincts, something substantially not visible, definitely not photographable, but able to give sense to the whole world. What brings the two together is the desire to question the canonic idea of the “point-of-view”. Surrealist artists believed there are infinite ways of interpreting the world because there are infinite ways of looking at it. The camera confirmed it, enabling multiple perspectives, unimaginable before. Circling around our subjects leads to ever changing focuses, approaching them renders them bigger and bigger until they incorporate the entire universe, by tilting our heads to the side even the horizon looks vertical. Analog photography needs nothing to challenge the limitations of our reality. The only special effect we must own is the imagination to change our sight.



Opening: Hat Marta Ruta Hats | Top, Gloves K.Wesołowski | Skirt MMC | Shoes Marni Here: Jacket Krupa Adrian | Opposite: Hat Stetson | Dress JAP Fashion | Skirt MMC | Jacket Maison Margiela

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Jacket MMC | Dress K. Wesołowski | Shoes Le Silla | Tights Wolford Opposite: Hat Marta Ruta Hats | Jacket Krupa Adrian | Shoes Reebok DMX Trail | Tights Wolford

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Previous: Jacket MMC | Top, Skirt Gosia BaczyńskaHat Marta Ruta Hats Here: Hat Paris Hendzel | Jackets Acne Studios, Max Mara | Skirt Gosia Baczyńska Shoes Reebok DMX Trail | Tights Wolford Opposite: Suit Krupa Adrian | Shoes Reebok DMX Trail

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DIGITAL

#fashionfuture

words Marta Forgione


Department stores and brick-and-mortar stores have suffered yet another major blow from various lockdowns in the world, during the pandemic. It was obvious that online shopping on the various e-commerce sites would grow, even simply because of the impossibility of doing otherwise. But the truth is that the world population had already taken this direction for some time, and it's only taking shape in a more overbearing way. For decades, anyone who decides to open a shop has been discouraged by anyone in the face of the possibilities offered by internet, and whether we like it or not we must now bow our heads to the future. What we think, however - LATEST was born as a magazine that talks about positivism and possibilities, so we will continue to tip the scales on this side of things is that the only way is to move forward to always look for the right coin side in life changes, or at least the convenient one. Useless to break down, useless to look at the past with nostalgia, always thinking it was better before. It's useless to put your foot down thinking about your work as an absolute and immutable concept.

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As it confirms, the brands able to take advantage of digitization during the pandemic were very successful, and some of them almost suffered no losses. This is the case, for example, of Mango whose e-commerce site has grown by + 50% in recent months and now boasts, in Europe, a sales level almost as in pre-covid. This is the affirmative answer, with a big exclamation point, for all those who still had doubts about where to aim. The whole fashion world is changing fast, and the various e-commerce giants are competing to grab the best slice of luxury. Amazon has recently launched its luxury section in collaboration with American brand Oscar de la Renta. This is an epochal turning point for the fashion elite that we never thought we would see. Each brand will have full power in the management of its Amazon space, enjoying its delivery service and, of course, the planetary exposure to new customers. Zalando is also betting on luxury, and between one sustainable move and another it plans to triple the sales of its Premium section (which will be called Designer) in the next three years. Yoox Net-a-porter is studying an Artificial Intelligence's project, to improve the virtual experience of testing garments and so on. Undoubtedly, the growing need to work in smartworking for obvious reasons has put us in front of a possibility that has always existed for many people. It's clear that it's not an adaptable situation to any job or any time, but for most office jobs it is. Of course, no stylist could remotely work on garments for an editorial, or photographers shoot models on FaceTime for much longer. We don't even wish it an acceptable future, of course. It's not about turning the world upside down from tomorrow, and getting into one of those futuristic films that we all know how they always end. It's mostly about improving one's job opportunities by exploiting what is there or, better still, thinking about something that is not yet there. We are not just talking about saving what can be saved in any other lockdown situations, but about a real future in which we will try to cut costs while maintaining high standards. A future in which we will think more about our health and the planet where we live. Like all changes, it will be a period that have its negative sides and management difficulties to be evaluated from time to time. The focus we believe is to find the negative sides and see what can be done about them, while taking the positives in order to have a correct mental reaction. And let's always remember that human beings always and always complain about anything that has ever changed in their lives.

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Working from home is a dream and a nightmare at once. If you necessarily have to deal with it, better to setting some rules since the beginning. Try to define a timetable and a circums cribed space where to work, in order not to mix leisure time and working hours. Keep your phone away and dress up as if you were to go out. It is incredible how a pair of heels, or a blazer with some jewels, can lift up the spirit and help you to focus. Finally, take frequent breaks and give some oxygen to your mind. Success is assured!

Home Office

Photography Frauke Fischer Style Lisa Marie Lohmann c/o Bigoudi Model Ella Eckersley c/o Louisa Models Hair Style, Makeup Anne Marie Wittchen c/o Bigoudi


Blazer Nobi Talai Trousers Blanche X Christian Lacroix


Blazer Filippa K Silk Blouse Joseph Overall Pallas Paris Slippers Chatelles Opposite: Full Look Paul Smith Glasses Barton Perreira

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Knit Joseph Denim Skirt Paul Smith Socks Falke Pumps Emporio Armani



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Velvet Blazer Pallas Paris Knitted Jumper Baum und Pferdgarten Trousers Filippa K Opposite: Knit Perfect Moment


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Oversized Blazer Joseph Dress Ganni Stockings Falke Heels Max&Co Opposite: Knit Perfect Moment Leather Skirt Áeron Boots Aeydé


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Sleeveless Knit 7 for all Mankind Blouse Ivy&Oak Tights Falke Pumps Emporio Armani


Leather Blouse Nobi Talai Trousers Ă eron Glasses Barton Perreira Pumps Furla Opposite: Dress &other Stories



FashInnovation 2nd edition: in conversation with

Rebecca

VAN BERGEN words Ludovica Mucci

courtesy of Nest | Rebecca Van Bergen


LATEST INTERVIEW

Fashinnovation held, in June, the second edition of Worldwide Talks. The event was full of very interesting and stimulating talks around some of the crucial issues that fashion is facing nowadays. We had the pleasure to talk with some of the guests invited and we are now sharing what came out of such inspiring conversations. Fashinnovation is a digital platform based in New York that aims at bringing together many creatives, designers, and entrepreneurs of the fashion system, creating exciting dialogues around several topics.

© Caroline Ashkar

We had the pleasure to interview Rebecca van Bergen, Founder and Executive Director of NEST. This organization is a nonprofit 501c (3) whose aim is to build a new hand worker economy to increase global workforce inclusivity, women’s empowerment, and to keep cultural traditions alive. Rebecca participated in the talk named: “Fashion is: Sustainability & Artisanal Brands via Ethical Practices”. Together, we discussed social sustainability, her work in promoting artisanal practices that are also ethical and culturally vibrant, the role of art and design in promoting the importance of diversity, and much more.

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You founded Nest at the age of 24. How did everything start? What was the spark that made you take this crucial decision that would eventually affect your professional and private life? Having grown up with a great-grandmother and grandmother who were quilters and sewers, I was drawn to craftsmanship as a means of self-expression and opportunity. Following my passion to turn craft, the second largest employer of women globally, into a mean to correct the gender and income imbalance in our world, I founded Nest at age 24. I've always been passionate about the handcrafting community, but I realized how women, and artisans in general, were often paid significantly less than the value of their skills and as home-based workers, their treatment and working conditions tended to be invisible. Muhammed Yunus won the Nobel Peace Prize the year that I founded Nest and I watched as microcredit swept the globe as a model for poverty alleviation and international development. While intriguing, the use of debt for business creation in high-risk communities worried me and so I founded Nest to provide more holistic business and market development for artisans and makers. Your partners are globally known- fashion and design brands, they span across different fields, but they are united under the same goal: a more sustainable way of living and producing, by supporting local artisans and less skilled laborers. I am thinking about Patagonia, PVH, West Elm, Eileen Fisher. How did the partnership with these companies start? Nest worked with incredible brands that have a deep commitment to artisanship. But beyond this more niche category, there are also millions of hand workers in many major global supply chains. This is a world of women primarily working with their hands: sewing soles on shoes, adding pompoms on the tops of winter hats, stringing tiny seed beads onto mass-market jewelry, making the tassels that adorn everything from clothing to pillow covers. Others look after the finer details of packaging: folding and inserting items into poly bags, twisting the paper strips to make the handles for paper bags, tri-folding tissue paper before it was slipped into the cellophane sleeve.

Production taking place in the home can be intimidating to brands because it often means that women are invisible, and their work is unregulated. As a result, brands may be inclined not to talk about home workers. Nest is helping brands to instead view homework as an opportunity recognizing that craft empowers them to earn economic independence, allows them to work from home while caring for their children, and mitigates the need for urban migration where women often find themselves living in cramped dormitories and working in overcrowded and unsafe factories.

Š Tosha Gaines Photography


© Aleksandr Staprans and Rose Aschebrock

That’s why we spent the past decade working with these companies, not only to recruit groups of artisans but also create structure and framework for these transactions. This led us to the Nest’s Ethical Handcraft Program, which uses a matrix of over 100 standards to determine fair wages, safe working environments, and representation in decision-making for artisans. As the consumer demand for handicrafts continues to grow, more-- and larger-- brands have come forward in recent years, interested in buying from these communities, we’ve been able to help solidify an artisan economy that works almost entirely from homes or small, informal community workshops -- and to provide the needed transparency to make sure this work is safe. For women, especially, this brings new hope and opportunity. COVID-19 pandemic has crashed us like a wave does on a rock. How are you managing the survival of the small businesses and artisans you support? Did other companies also cooperate with Nest in recovering those businesses?

COVID-19 was obviously an unexpected hit to our economy, more specifically affecting a lot of the micro and small businesses that we help support. The survival of these artisans and businesses are what fuel Nest, so we knew that we had to be responsive to the economic impacts we were seeing here at home and all over the world. In April, we launched our PPE Purchasing Initiative in order to reduce the threat of unemployment for both artisans by equipping them to produce high-quality and/or medical-grade PPE. Nest would “purchase” the PPE which would then be donated to frontline workers and vulnerable citizens. We were thrilled our partners rallied to this cause as well. We joined forces with Quarate Retail Group (which includes QVC and HSN), Target, Etsy, Mastercard, Amazon, the Cordes Foundation, and the Winn Family Foundation and together we have produced more than 200,000 masks and counting. Companies are also able to source Masks by Makers for retail sale or to distribute to employees or partners creating the double impact of flattening the curve but also supporting vulnerable small

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businesses at a time where every order counts. We can support scaleable sourcing for brands, corporate teams and frontline employees, custom mask development, prints or design illustrations, and add social impact to a company’s sourcing strategy. This speaks to a larger conversation that we feel is important to have as a society. Consumers, brands and governments need to talk about and recognize the role home-based work has in the global economy and bring it from the shadows. For those of us in the West we need to look at the so-called “gig economy” through a new lens. Watching our artisans making masks quickly from El Salvador to India to here in the United States despite global lockdowns was remarkable and spoke to the resilience of our workforce. In Seattle, Washington, we partnered with the Refugee Artisan Initiative, a program that helps refugee and immigrant women to find employment.

here & opposite © NEST

When the lockdown went into effect, Ming-Ming Tung Edelman, the founder of RAI, not only put many of the women to work producing 6,000 cloth masks from home but also employed some of their husbands (who had seen work disappear as Uber drives or gig workers) to transport materials to various artisans’ homes. These masks have been donated to healthcare workers, inmates, and low-income seniors in Chinatown in the Seattle area. With your Nest’s Artisan Accelerator Program, in 2018 76 new jobs were created, alongside $600,000 dollars in new revenue across small and medium businesses that adhered to the Nest’s Artisan Accelerator Program. Can you explain to us a little bit more what is it about? Do you have interesting, inspiring stories to share with us? Yes, we are so excited about how successful this program has been for artisan and hand worker.


Nest’s Artisan Accelerator is an intensive year-long program designed to give 10 promising and engaged artisan businesses the support they need to become vital players in the international marketplace for fashion and home design. Following a rigorous application process, participating accelerator businesses become part of a cohort of highly motivated like-minded enterprises from around the world, who, under Nest’s direct support, engage in a series of intensive business development programs over the course of a minimum 12-month period. Support includes everything from leadership summits, mentorship programs, roundtables with other peers, and more.

In 2018, 90% of our graduates were women and 90% of businesses either maintained or increased revenue and together created 76 new jobs. Artisan Accelerator 2018 graduate All Across Africa’s program participation has helped set the business up for success and significant growth in 2019. Since graduating from the program, the 90% female-powered artisan business realized $489,000 USD in sales from two large orders for handwoven baskets placed by major national and international brands within the first year following the program. The brand connections were fostered by Nest, with All Across Africa proving its vendor eligibility and successfully delivering sophisticated design and high product quality while meeting both quantities and timelines demanded by its partners. The economic wins are helping to spur broader social impact in the communities in Rwanda and Uganda, which takes on even greater significance when considering that unemployment in SubSaharan Africa is estimated to fall somewhere between 80–96%. One of the women, Margret Nampina said: Weaving enables me to pay for all of my children’s school fees. Through my savings, I’ve been able to purchase 2 pigs, land, and I recently started my own chapati business.” Beyond Margret, 80% of the women from AAA started actively using a savings account and 94% purchased health insurance, something usually not done by a notoriously informal workforce. We’ve just kicked off programming for the 2020 cohort of businesses. Qurate Retail Group is joining us in fellowship webinars though we hope we will be able to get on-site for programming following the pandemic as well. Sustainability is not only environmental but also social, and a way of implementing it through artisanal practices. Can you tell us a bit more about the Ethical Handcraft Program? Yes! It is vital that we consider both environmental and also human impacts. I think with the artisan sector, it is even a bit trickier since I think, often, artisan and ethical are seen as somewhat synonymous. But, when we fall into the trap of equating artisan with ethics, we fail to acknowledge the fact that craftwork is, in most cases, part of the informal economy. Craftspeople typically labor from home at the

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bottom of a complicated and dispersed web of middlemen, paid cash, and unprotected by labor law. It follows that transparency to ensure ethics and fairness is actually more complicated, not less so, than in a factory environment where workers are all under one roof where their wellbeing can be more easily monitored, and where they are most commonly paid a salary wage. While the founding of most cooperatives or artisan businesses is rooted in ethical practices when prices are determined per piece, they often do not account for minimum, let alone fair, wage rates and when women are hidden inside homes, it becomes harder to ensure that harassment, child labor or unsafe practices are not taking place. The issue of verifying fair wages alone is an important one. A surprising 79% of the supply chains we work with at Nest were not able to demonstrate that they meet minimum wage when we first start working together yet nearly 40% have closed the gap within a year of participating in our Ethical Handcraft Program and 65% have implemented measures to do so over the course of the next year. These findings highlight that third-party accountability and standardization of wage-setting processes are critical. As consumers give more attention to handcrafted items, let’s ensure that the talented women who made our artisanal items not only make something beautiful, but are paid decently to do so. The Nest Seal of Ethical Handcraft is now available on select products at West Elm, Pottery Barn (including Kids & Teen) and Target, to give us the ability to make these choices – to choose not only handcraft, but ethical handcraft. Giving small and medium artisans the access they need, to cultivate their art and to gain profit from it is also an empowering tool for many artists, especially women who often have to take care of entire households. How do your Nest Professional Fellowship and Artisan Summits and Convenings work in this sense? Empowerment is so important in the work that we do, because when these business owners feel as though they have the tools to succeed, ultimately, they are able to build a livelihood for them and their families. Š Caroline Ashkar


Š Tosha Gaines Photography

With Nest’s Professional Fellowship and Artisan Summits and Convenings we are able to connect seasoned professionals with artisans and hand workers, to bridge skills and business education through virtual mentorship meetings, pro bono services, and immersive educational experiences that bridge the divide between industry, artisans, and experts. These key players are able to work with our business partners on design, quality control systems, and business planning, ultimately increasing inclusivity and opportunity, in turn supporting women who are often the breadwinners in the family.

programs that Nest has been able to create has been in part due to the growing, ever-evolving technology, which has allowed us to create various data reports and increase communication transparency on how the workers are being treated. Even in the most practical sense during COVID-19, technology (email, WhatsApp, etc.) has been crucial. Even when all supply chains were cut off and workers were stuck at home, we were able to mobilize a massive supply chain operation to disseminate over 200,000 masks to frontline employees! This would have been impossible without technology.

How in your opinion can technology support sustainable business development?

How do you see the future of design after this pandemic? Do you think our relationship with spaces, both urban and domestic, will change after the for some traumatic experience of quarantine?

Technology has been so vital for us in helping create a more sustainable, ethical world through our artisan partners, which just shows how important it is and will continue to be as the hand worker economy continues to grow. All of the

Artists will always create art, and designers’ designs. Even in the midst of crisis businesses were creating the most unique and artisanal masks. p.123


The various offerings on our Masks by Makers Marketplace boasts everything from block prints and patchwork from India, to ikat and Ayurvedic-dyed masks made from hand-loomed organic cotton, to reversible silk face masks made from sustainable and anti-microbial Xiang yun sha silk, to botanically-dyed silks from the Maldives, and sleek unisex knit varieties manufactured in New York. These artisan-made masks take this now essential accessory out of hospital corridors and construction sites and into the realm of personal style. By looking at what is happening in the world right now, starting from the pandemic crisis, both social and economic, to arrive at the numerous protests around the world claiming social justice and the end of racism, what do you think is the role of art, design and fashion in promoting such difficult but absolutely needed changes? While it is in some ways unnerving that the world continues to feel chaotic, the conversation around

Š Nest

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race and racial justice is long overdue not just for our country but for our sector. We noticed that the burgeoning makers movement around the country was not growing in ways that were fostering either inclusivity nor diversity. We gathered with makers, mayors, economic development departments, brands and philanthropists at a Convening in South Carolina where the 2 days of education and conversation often centered around race and inclusion. From those days, our Makers United program was born. A program where, at its heart, we focus on ensuring that makers that are disproportionately more likely to have barriers to needed services and business growth support from financing to market access, get the education, exposure, and support they need. We launched in Birmingham and then expanded to Austin and San Antonio and are THRILLED to announce that we are expanding to Detroit with the incredible designer (and Nest Trustee!) Tracy Reese. The role of fashion and art is to be a catalyst for this much-needed change.


DOROTHYPERKINS.COM


Photography Patrick Schwalb Style Markus Galic Model Malou | www.malou-music.com Makeup, Hair Style Dennis Brandt c/o Bigoudi Digital Operator Lucas HĂśllmĂźller

Malou In occasion of this new Latest Magazine Issue, the team has had the wonderful opportunity to speak with a super talented young artist. Malou, the Hamburg-based emerging talent with Hawaiian roots, has already made the first steps in the music industry with her Pop and Electro pop captivating sounds. Everything started with a guitar, which she taught herself, and with some lyrics to warm up the long Canadian winters. Since then, the twenty-one-year-old musician has never stopped and made of singing and songwriter her reason. What really stands out of her words is her determination and resilience, as well as the care for every detail of the process of music making. Her commitment is what brought her collaborating with several artists and playing on stage at festivals, such as the Elements Festival in 2017, which counted about 15,000 spectators. We talked about her personal style, how she copes with the downsides of the creative industries and much more. words Ludovica Mucci


Dress Traffic People | Boots Ash | Earrings Nylas



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Coat Miomartha | Hat Bottega Veneta | Boots Nubikk Opposite: Dress Cos | Body Wolford | Socks Moschino | Shoes Y3


Jacket Nobi Talai | Sweater Marc Jacobs | Pants, Boots Jijil


When did you realize singing and songwriting would be your future? Was there a particular event or situation that finally made you think this could be your path? I’ve known I wanted to perform and make music for as long as I can remember. When I was four years old my parents watched me in the middle of the dance floor singing and dancing. I didn't allow anyone to join in. I think I was born for it! Where do you get inspiration from in your lyrics and sound? How much of personal experiences are in there and how much dreams and fantasies? When I’m writing for myself it’s only personal lyrics, songwriting isn’t just my passion, it’s therapy. I’ll just sit together with other songwriters and talk with them about personal experiences and then we turn them into music together. It helps me to process life. I have a main songwriter collaborator, producer and songwriter Charlie McClean, who helps to guide the vision of what I want to create with my songs! When I write for other artists or ads and movies, I also write about others’ experiences, and fictional situations too. It’s a little of everything. A life in the creative industries is at times exhausting, how do you stay grounded? What advice would you give to yourself if you could go back in time? I worked so hard to be where I am and I’m super thankful for everyone and everything that happened so far in my life. I couldn’t be happier. That definitely makes me stay grounded. To know how hard it was to get there,

and remembering every step. And of course being with my friends and family is the best you can do in this kind of business. The work is exhausting of course, but when I’m in it it doesn’t feel like work at all since this is my passion, so it’s still always positive. The only advice I would give myself is to be patient since I’m really not patient at all! But shout out to all the people who keep me grounded! Since music and fashion are closely related when speaking about a singer’s identity, how would you describe your style? How’s your relationship with fashion? I love fashion, it’s always been an extension of my self-expression. I always prioritise quality. For example, I’d rather buy two pairs of jeans that are more expensive than getting ten pairs that doesn’t fit perfectly. Fast fashion makes your look disposable, and I want to wear iconic looks I care about whatever the season. It’s the same with my songs, everything has to be perfect no matter how long it takes. All the pieces have to fit together perfectly, created with love, and created to last. What are the brands you really can’t live without and that meet your sense of style the most? Closed is definitely one of my favourites, they have such beautiful stand out pieces but I live in their basics pants and sweaters! I also love Sandro Paris and Claudie Pierlot. If you mix, you know, a cute Pierlot dress or skirt, or Sandro Paris black jeans with a Closed basic top and sweater, and then your statement piece could be Alexander wang, Prada or AGL shoes. That would describe my look best I think! p.131


Shirt : Riani | Opposite: Dress Erika Cavallini At Tempelhamburg.de | Stockings Falke | Boots Kennel & Schmenger



Fashion and music both convey our own sense of being, our ideas and our expectations. Do you think it’s difficult to find our own voice and authentic self in a world full of endless possibilities as the one we live in? It’s certainly challenging to find your unique and individual "sound" and look when there are so many amazing things to inspire you in the world. It just takes time to clarify your vision and bring it into focus! I spent several years making a lot of different sounding music, and that helped me learn that I wanted my artistry to be beautiful, graceful and most of all pop! What’s the best memories you keep about festivals and other music events? So many! I’d say first, Elements Festival in Stuttgart, Germany. I wrote the anthem for the festival several times, and in 2017 performed there on my first big stage more than 15,000 people alongside EDM duo Vol2cat.

regularly and it’s become a very important part of my creative life. If you would give any advice to someone that wants to put one foot in the music industry what would it be? Don’t think to hard, just do it! I started out simply emailing producers, labels and artists, asking for help and advice for an aspiring singer. The worst thing that could have happened would be that they said no! I was so pleasantly surprised by how helpful and kind people were. Of course I really had some bad experiences along the way, but in the end I’m glad I did it all because I learned so much. As with any business, connectivity and confidence are everything ...and a lot of patience! Favorite artist or singer? Tough question, so many! I love a wide range of genres, but current favourites include Hayden James (all time favourite!), Elderbrook, Mura Masa, Jungle, and on the pop side, Lennon Stella and Astrid S are amazing.

Second, performing on a cruise ship in Dubai, singing to a thousand people, looking out over the ocean, half a world away from home.

Can you give us a spoiler of your future?

Also a big highlight; when I flew to the USA to write in Nashville and Atlanta. I worked with incredible people in iconic studios, and the trip was organised by my management (Stephan Dabruck management) and the Recording Academy (hosts of the Grammy Awards), giving me my first taste of the American writing scene. I now go there

With my wonderful team at Warner Music I’m creating a collection of beautiful songs to be released over the coming year, that will launch me as an international pop artists. It’s always a a journey, to quote one of my favourite songs written recently, ‘I’m still working on perfect, cause perfect is worth it’!


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Sweater Jijil | Shorts Parati | Earrings Nylas


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Top, Hotpants Franziska Michael | Coat Marc Cain | Sneakers Ash Opposite: Jacket Cecilie Copenhagen | Shorts See By Chloe | Socks Adidas | Sneakers Kennel & Schmenger



Jacket French Connection | Skirt Justine Skye | Socks &Other Stories | Boots Nubikk



Photography David PD Hyde Style Emily Evans Model Georgina Solly c/o Milk Model Management Hair Style Ryo Narushima Makeup Laura Ones

OCEAN'S

voice

Jacques-Yves Cousteau - navigator, explorer but also director used to say “people protect what they love”. To support love we need knowledge and knowledge needs, in turn, presence. It is the constant flow of informations that keeps our love growing and our care perpetual. Oceans, when clean and healthy, clean the atmosphere from carbon dioxide, which is absorbed by a little seaweed named phytoplankton and then travels along the food chain - from mouth to mouth, from the plankton to the whale - until melt completely in the water. Oceans also soak up atmospheric heat, preventing the planet from overheating. Oceans and air live in an ongoing exchange and the wellbeing of the first cannot prescind the other. It is important to know it, because this is the only possible way for us to understand and act in order to stop the oceans’ destruction and give a cleaner future for our World.


Green velvet jumpsuit Kata Haratym

Full look Diane Von Furstenberg

White faux fur coat Erinn Hayhow



Dress, Shoes Florentina Leitner Opposite: Green sleeves Kata Haratym

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Dress Anciela Shoes Pleiades Opposite: Dress Anciela



Shoes Balenciaga | Trousers Bottega Veneta | Bra Midgard Paris | Coat Ganni | Hat Gucci | Shawl Versace

Shirt Bottega Veneta


Dress, Jacket Florentina Leitner Body suit Gabriela Hearst Shoes by Pleiades Tights Tabio Opposite: Purple velvet top Eirinn Hayhow White tights Wolford

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Patchwork Coat Erinn Hayhow Pink Shoes Florentina Leitner Opposite: Bodysuit Francesca. R. Palumbo Hat, Raincoat Eirinn Hayhow Tights Falke


Silver top Anciela Opposite: Red recycled sequin dress Paula Knorr

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Jumpsuit Anciela Opposite: Pearl glasses Florentina Leitner



Editor’s letter

It takes very little to be a better person and do something good to our planet and to us. All you need is, after all, to spend some time getting informations, reading the labels and making conscious choices. When it comes to clothing, confusion is pretty high. It is because of greenwashing of course, but also because of the complexity of the topic. To prefer natural fibers seems to be the best solution in this sense, but cotton, linen and co. present some problems too. Let’s try to not demonize certain fabrics in favour of others, because it never is the solution. Better to try to understand what came before your t-shirt (who made it, how and with what resources) and, especially, what will come next, once you have discarded it. We had a chat with Giulio Bonazzi, president and CEO of Aquafil, and we made up our mind on nylon, a quite dangerous synthetic fiber which can be, with the right precautions, very light on our planet.

Aquafil’s motto is “We begin with the end in mind”: can you explain to us why this approach is so important in today’s production and consumption? In a circular economy industry, we should manufacture everything with the end in mind, and ECONYL® is one powerful ingredient in this pivotal journey. It is always important to think about what comes next, just like in nature, where there is no waste, but instead everything is transformed in something else. ECONYL® is a product that respects the environment by not taking anything from it. It is an infinitely recyclable and extremely versatile resource that offers endless possibilities.

IN CONVERSATION WITH GIULIO BONAZZI OF

AQUAFIL Words Giulia Greco - up to page 156 Here: Giulio Bonazzi and wife at GCFA 2018, ©David M. Benett Getty Images for Eco-Age Ltd Opposite: fish nets for recycling | aquafil.com

p.154

In today’s economy the possibility of lowering consumption is hard to achieve. We live indeed in a society based on consuming, in lower or higher degree. How can circular economy answer to the need of new products while creating un-sustainable mount of pollution? While the appetite to create and enjoy new products is infinite, the planet’s resources are not. At Aquafil, we are helping to develop new products and a better environment. Nylon wasted from landfills and oceans around the world is transformed into ECONYL® regenerated nylon. It's exactly the same as brand new nylon and can be recycled, recreated and remolded again and again. That means you can create new products and buy new products without having to use new resources.


Nylon used to be one of the most polluting fibers in the fashion industry. Synthetic fibers in general are denigrated today, because they are considered notsustainable options. Why is it important to maintain synthetic fibers in the industry and what are the aspects of their production that should be controlled in order to reduce their footprint? One of the great advantages of ECONYLÂŽ is that it can be regenerated an infinite number of times without losing quality, it is therefore a recyclable fiber unlike most synthetic fabrics on the market.

Where do you find your raw materials? We have partners all around the world, such as waste collectors and fish farms. We also founded, back in 2013, the Healthy Sea initiative, whose purpose is to clean oceans and seas from marine litter such as derelict fishnets, then used in our production. Another special project we are really proud of is Net-Works, which is an innovative business that help costal communities from developing countries to rescue and then sell discarded nylon fishing nets. These are the main way we collect raw materials. Garments made with ECONYLŽ release way less

microfibers in the water when washed. How do you make it possible and how do you control this important aspect of your product? Any type of fabrics can release tiny fibers or particles when washed, which can end up in our water systems and oceans. This is a risk for marine life as well as human health, so we are following studies on this issue to seek solutions to microplastic pollution. Currently, various industries and sectors - from laundry detergent developers to washing machine producers - are involved in researching on the issue too. We are carefully monitoring all materials that we incorporate into our products and the ones we use in the production processes, to avoid negative impacts on people and the environment. We also regularly perform analyses on our products by third-party laboratories and obtain product certificates such as OEKO-TEX 100. Aquafil has worked first-hand to elaborate an analytical methodology for the quantification and evaluation of microplastics coming from textiles industry, as there is not an official method yet. Since one year now, our proposed methodology has entered the bureaucratic procedure, which will last 3 years to become an official method according to the international standard CEN and ISO.


Editor’s letter

Gucci Off The Grid campaign with Jane Fonda, all nylon used for the collection was Econyl | ©Harmony Korine/Gucci

ECONYL® has been used by several brands all over the world. It is not only a confirmation of Aquafil’s potential but also a good way of spreading the word and creating awareness. What is in your opinion the best way to arise consciousness in the consumer and how much is it important for a change in the fashion system? The answer is to collaborate with consumers, educate them and fight the idea that sustainability costs more. We have to think about how to weave sustainability into our discussions with suppliers and consumers, which will open up more possibilities. It is our duty to reposition sustainability as more than an added item. It is a choice and a responsibility. In addition to that, I would suggest to share positive stories of sustainable fashion products. Today, through technology you have reach. Storytelling is powerful. By sharing effective stories of sustainability products, we are collectively shifting the narrative. Can you tell us a bit more about your #designerforchange campaign? Yes! We decided to start a new social media campaign with our community of both fashion and

p.156

interiors designers to inspire change during the height of the coronavirus, when the majority of the world faced uncertainty. We asked all designers to share a picture from their creative workspace and a quote about the power of design to create change. In the face of change, we can see fear, or we can see a chance. Are you planning to expand to other fabrics, for instance, Spandex or polyester? We are focused on nylon. However, we do have an ongoing project on bionylon, that we can be able to talk about soon.

Covid19 pandemic generates new waste, such as face masks and plastic disposable gloves. Have you worked on this issue? We have worked with four different brands in producing sustainable masks that are reusable and washable. All of these are made with ECONYL®, sometimes also using fabric scraps. Go check U-Mask’s Model 2, OceanPositive Masks by Fourth Element, Lantiga Vita and Sea Morgens.


BURTON.CO/UK


New

LUXURY

PAAR Photography Style Richard Schreefel Model Silke c/o Touche Models Makeup, Hair Style Charlotte van Beusekom


The definition of “luxury�, on the dictionary, relies on the concepts of expensiveness (economically speaking), sophistication and rarity, but also futility. A luxury product is something not everybody can afford - and not every time - but it is anyways not necessary in our daily life. The idea of luxury is then different for every one of us: it depends on the place, the time and the ambitions of the single, on the social group of belonging. In the following pages you will find vintage clothes only, in an editorial whose aim is to define

more conscious and definitely more appropriate for the time we are living. The new luxury is not anymore linked (only) to the price on the tag. The value of the product comes instead from the values it carries: vintage and second hand garments are the most conscious and sustainable alternative we have today. If refinement and rarity stay unaltered - nothing compare in rarity to vintage clothes, made of refined fabrics meant to last to the passage of time and the natural caducity of things - what does change is the concept of inutility. The new luxury is everything but useless, on the contrary. It is necessary to save our planet and our relationship with clothes, in order for it to come back to love, cure and longevity, despite trends.



Opposite: Jacket Claude Montana | Shapewear & Stockings Wolford

Here: Jacket-Dress By Mondi | Boots Saint Laurent | Gloves Ines Gloves | Earrings Bron Jewelry

Opening: Dress Brandon Maxwell | Ring Dada Arrigoni


FROM THE ARCHIVE. INVEST IN

Jumpsuit Yves Saint Laurent | Earrings Chanel Opposite: Jacket Thierry Mugler | Stockings Wolford | Ankle-Boots Iceberg

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GARMENTS THAT SURVIVE TEST OF

TIME


Corset & Pants-Skirt Richard Schreefel’92 | Earrings Yves Saint Laurent




Opposite: Coat Fendi | Stockings Wolford | Shoes Christian Louboutin | Earrings Ole Lynggaard

Blouse Richard Schreefel ’92 | Skirt No 21 | Belt Killiwatch Paris


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Dress John Galliano | Belt Killiwatch Paris | Sunglasses Saint Laurent | Ring Bron Jewelry



Beauty products for Fall Winter? The answer is

Green

Line

2021 password - yes, we like to get ahead! - will be “to reduce�. Less new clothes, that we do not need anyways, less plastic and disposable products in our houses, especially in our bathroom cabinets. To reduce consumption is indeed the only real and efficient solution when it comes to environmental protection and sustainable lifestyle. Several companies, in the last period, have been engaged to switch to biodegradable plastic in their packages and boxes. Some of them have turned to paper, in the belief that it is a valid alternative with a low impact on the planet. The truth is different. Biodegradable plastic is plant based and comes from specific agricultural crops that require a huge amount of chemicals and water, both in production and in the recycling process. Moreover, packages and boxes are rarely 100% biodegradable, solving the waste problem only partially. Paper, on its side, is not a long term solution. To increase the use of paper also means to increase the pressure on forests, without even mentioning that to dispose it is more problematic that it may seem. If the situation looks far too complicated for you to deal with it, do not lose hope, this article is made appositely for you. Few changes in your routine will greatly affect on your consumption, weighing less on the planet but also on your wallet. They are indeed small investments that will repay your commitment and will make you happy in the long term. Our beauty list for the Fall Winter '20-21 is all about sustainability trend, and it focuses on the essential steps of our daily routine, making it lighter. From the ultimate skincare to the products to use in the shower, passing through personal hygiene and period, here you have the best path to a zero-impact beauty!

words Giulia Greco

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LATEST BEAUTY l mondo della cosmetica è ultimamente protagonista di un cambiamento molto lontano dall’essere

Foto by Daria Shevtsova

Smart Mirror - HiMirror

p.114 p.59 p.97 p.133


LATEST BEAUTY


LastObject: the definitive purchase. What are the disposable products we use the most in our daily life? Paper tissues, makeup pads and cotton swab. To find a good alternative is difficult, but LastObject is our solution. As you can easily understand from the name itself, LastObject’s promise is to give you the ultimate product, the last you will buy for a quite long time. La trasparenza trasparenza è il motto di La di Nabla Nabla Cosmetics, LastSwab is the reusable swab in two variants, depending on your Cosmetics, cheneeds. puntaLastTissue allae genuinità che punta alla genuinità all’utilizzoe di ingreis a 10 pieces package of reusable tissues (up to 460dienti times!), smartly divided into two all’utilizzo di ingredienti vegani e cruelty-free, vegani e cruelty-free, garantendo procompartments - one for dirty tissues, one for clean ones. Itdiwill also alert you when it is italiano racgarantendo prodotti diIlprima qualità. dotti prima qualità. marchio time to wash. And, finally, LastRound, the best reusable cotton forl’amore makeup. Il marchio italiano racchiude nelnatura nome el’amore chiude nelpads nome perEach la l’arte: of them comes in a soft silicon cover which can be washed insia theun dishwasher, giving per la ènatura e simbolo l’arte: Nabla èinsia un simbolo Nabla che fisica si usa per che in fisica usa persiadescrivere la natura, descrivere la sinatura, un richiamo all’immayou the best of the hygiene with minimum effort. sia un richiamospesso all’immagine dell’arpa, spesso gine dell’arpa, raffigurata in mitologia raffigurata in mitologia accanto Dio accanto ad Apollo Dio delle arti.ad Il Apollo brand prodelle una arti.serie Il brand propone molto una serie di pone di collezioni interessanti, collezioni molto interessanti, tra cui up la Vol.2”, tra cui la “Close-up Line” e la “Close“Close-up Line” e la “Closeup Vol.2”,disegnati due due linee di correttori e fondotinta linee di correttori e fondotinta disegnati per per ogni tipo di pelle. L’attenzione alle esigenogni di pelle. L’attenzione allenel esigenze ze deltipo consumatore si vede anche progetto del consumatore ancheinviare nel progetto “Me&Nabla” area siinvede cui poter qualsiasi “Me&Nabla” area in cui poter inviare qualsiasi suggerimento volto ad arricchire l’offerta del suggerimento volto adviene arricchire l’offerta del brand. Ogni consiglio discusso a cadenza brand. Ogni consiglio viene discusso a cadenmensile dal team. za mensile dal team.

Sulla stessa lunghezza d’onda è anche Benecos, brand tedesco specializzato in prodotti per il make-up, unghie, capelli e corpo. Tra la Sulla stessa lunghezza d’onda è anche vasta gamma offerta dal brand gli smalti sono Benecos, brand tedesco specializzato in molto interessanti; il colore è la caratteristica prodotti per il make-up, unghie, capelli e fondamentale del prodotto, dimostrando come corpo. Tra la vasta gamma offerta dal brand uno stile di vita votato al rispetto della natura gli smalti sono molto interessanti; il colore è e delle sue risorse non faccia rinunciare all’ela caratteristica fondamentale del prodotto, stro e alla creatività. I nomi degli smalti sono dimostrando come uno stile di vita votato al molto invitanti, tra le tante proposte troviamo rispetto della natura e delle sue risorse non il “bubble gum”, “you-nique”, “wild orchid” o faccia rinunciare all’estro e alla creatività. I “flamingo”, i grandi assenti sono la formaldeinomi degli smalti sono molto invitanti, tra de, i parabeni, siliconi e altre sostanze chimile tante proposte troviamo il “bubble gum”, che nocive; al loro posto invece olio di avocado “you-nique”, “wild orchid” o “flamingo”, i e vitamina H adatta per le unghie fragili. grandi assenti sono la formaldeide, i parabeni, siliconi e altre sostanze chimiche nocive; al Queste proposte non sono le uniche sul mercaloro posto invece olio di avocado e vitamina H to, tanti sono i brand che ormai stanno viranadatta per le unghie fragili. do verso una proposta etica e sostenibile, per Queste proposte non sono le uniche sul l’ambiente e per la salute e prosperità di corpo mercato, tanti sono i brand che ormai stanno e mente. virando verso una proposta etica e sostenibile, per l’ambiente e per la salute e prosperità di corpo e mente. p.173 p.117 p.59


LATEST BEAUTY


Beyouty: Be You, Beyond, Beauty. The constant research for the best skincare (everyone of us is engaged in) usually requires a great deal of time and many many products, tested and discarded. The amount of waste is unimaginably big. The best solution is to confide in a complete kit of products, which covers all the steps of cleansing and hydration leaving you satisfied, whatever your age and peculiarities are. Beyouty skincare line is a great choice: genderless and cruelty free, it guarantees the best nutrients against wrinkles and acne, and it is complete in its offer. Among micellar water, plumping spray and eyes and lips contour cream, the spearhead is the snail slime cream. It is obtained with a gentle and natural process which, without damaging the animal, but for this very reason, gives the best products. Ps. Beyouty is also committed in the social: part of the income is given to Il Mantello, an Italian organization supporting the adoption of orphanages from different countries. p.175 p.117 p.59

​


LATEST BEAUTY


Hair care: Nature in the head Plant stem cells have being studied in depth lately. They are part of the cellular regeneration system of plants which not only allows them to heal possible "wounds", but also to reproduce themselves. ForOrganiCup. this reason they are an excellent ally in hair care: it nourishes them at To substitute pads andbefore. tampons is another step of great importance in the root and thickens them like never order to achieve our goal. According to same data, listed and explained on MD Hair Restoration Starter Kit is OrganiCup website, every composed of three products that, if used woman uses around 11.000 disposable pads duringand herstrength life. Every year,scalp period products create 200.000 tonnes of together, give shine to the waste, which cannot disposed and end up in landfills and, even worst, in and allow the thickening of the hair be in few, the oceans. simple steps. Scalp Essential serum nourishes The menstrual cupEnergizer is one of the possible replacement to normal pads and the skin and revitalizes it, Follicle tampons, together thickens the hair root and, last butwith not other least, products available on the market today, such as menstrual reusable pads Nutri Hair in capsules makesslips, the hair thicker in and natural sponges. We suggest you the cup by OrganiCup, which is made out of medical just one month of use, stimulating growth and silicon and, with its eco-friendly production and small dimension, features a repairing damage. Awesome, isn't it? long list of pros. More comfort, better hygiene, less guilt.

​ p.177 p.180 p.117 p.59


LATEST BEAUTY


Beauty Kubes: squared sustainability The best step you can take in your new green beauty routine is to avoid packages of every kind. Beauty Kubes takes you all along the way, thank to its extensive line of solid shampoo, conditioners and body wash. Its e-shop is fully stocked and results are assured - also by the several prizes the label has won since the beginning of the project in 2017. Beauty Kubes are divided into small single use portion, which makes everything easy as well as zero waste. Ingredients are all natural: coconut milk to nourish, mustard seeds oil for dry scalp, safflower and nettle powder to balance. In addition to the ingredients, the process is green too, from craftsmanship to the energy used in the factory, fully obtained from renewable sources.

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p.179 p.117 p.59


Photography Les Mijotés using FUJIFILM Style Wilford Lenov Model Sanne Vloet c/o Heroes Models NY Hair Style Sienree using Oribe Makeup Chelsea Sule using MAC cosmetics

anne S VLOET To talk with - and to listen to - young generations is important, not only for marketing researches but also for who, like us, wants to leave them a better world, tailored on their new needs. Values have indeed changes, very much and very quickly. Millennials, gen z, x and y grew up in globalization, know well consumerism and have a preferential access to informations, thanks to digital media. The ensemble of these three characteristics build up very attentive and demanding consumers, who buy only brands in line with their believes. Among their priorities we find the environment but also fair production and physical and mental wellbeing. Everything is connected. Sanne Vloet is part of this committed generation, she believes in its transformative power and started herself, together with the peer Bénédicte Bakar, a skincare brand with our skin and our planet in mind. Izé, this is its name, produces nutritive oils for our skin and makes them with the best ingredients possible. Every component is controlled, grown and worked in the US, the packaging is sustainable and the business is involved in social and eco-friendly projects. If we would make a list of must-have-characteristics of raising brands, these would be for sure in the top five.

words Giulia Greco - up to page 189

On back cover and here: Two piece set Lakris | Ring Helenium p.180




The Internet is the best place to start, even though it is often a double-edged Certain are clear You perfectlysword. sum up someinformations, of the (best) however, characteristics of and new indisputable and constitute the essential background we all should generations. Socially and environmentally committed, healthy in your have. For example, the fabrics, theirtoorigin and lifestyle, openknowing minded and very down Earth. Dotheir youprocessing. think your Give preference toready naturaltofibers such wool, their cotton, viscose or hemp young peers are change forasbetter way of living? (yes, hemp! The most innovative and at the same time the oldest fiber) is important, though sufficient. and this artificial fibers, Firstvery of all, thank you for thenot kind words! ISynthetic truly believe generation which come mainly from plastic, are extremely harmful not only during is pushing forward in a positive direction with a focus on environment, a but alsolife after, during Notexperienced, everyone knows that driveproduction to live a balanced and, from their what life. I have they are every polyester is washed it releases certaininamount very time openato the new.garment We are aware of what we are aputting our of plastic particles into the water that add new pollution to the bodies, what type of information we are consuming and progressive ecosystem, in a potentially cycle. demonstrate ideas are now making it to the infinite top of the list Companies of things wethat need to fight use naturalisfibers arechanging usually more for. they My generation already how conscious we live, wethan haveothers. also more Prices andtowards the number of items perwe collection is another direct way to gratitude the small things, choose to travel over buying evaluate a brand. Low prices and countless collections per year are a material objects and, now more than ever, people are realizing how much sign of low (if not non-existent) respect for the environment and they look life for granted. I am excited to see how we will grow into the probably a truly polluting production system.leaders Fast fashion chains are of tomorrow! a sore point and talking about sustainability when considering their production a contradiction in terms. It is true that some Your skincaresystem line Izéseems is born from your work as a model. Through brands try to adopt and induce positive behaviors in customers, such as working in the fashion industry and being invited to use several collecting discarded clothes recycling. However, if these measures different beauty products, youor found yourself overwhelmed by, not are good, they are also very small action compared to the negative aspects only the huge amount of cosmetics available, but also by the waste of production and cannot be taken into account in the definition of they create, with packaging mainly. Do you believe people have your sustainability. Every small step counts, but you need to focus on the same sensation and awareness? The idea is perfectly summarized by bigger damageof toIzé, get which effective results on asimplified”. large scale.Who is your the description is “skincare: In the same way, we must be careful about the research that is carried target consumer? out: that a brand is affiliated and collaborates with NGOs and humanitarian is, again, an commendable thing. However it is not Benny and I bothprojects spent years slathering on various products thinking relevant if we talk aboutofproduction, doescrazy not tell anything more was better, in terms skincare, sobecause we haditthese 10us steps about garments and how they are made. skincare routines because we thought that’s what it takes to have “good” Defining priorities is the basis of the research. skin. Weyour watched influencers and Youtubers put on 15+ products morning and night so we used to do the same. What really happened is that we both ended up irritating and sensitize our skin by using so many chemicals and fragrances. We realized that keeping it simple, using two or three products whose composition you know well, make all the difference. We also realized that people are generally confused by skincare (as we were!). They are not sure how to layer, what serum goes first, does eye cream go before moisturizer of after? We knew we wanted to create something to the point, easy to use and most of all effective. Izé is for the modern consumer who is looking for the highest quality ingredients, to use day and night without causing irritation, all while making a positive impact on the environment.

Button Down Shirt Nana Jacqueline | White Shorts Trendhaus | Earrings Natia x Lako

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You are very passionate not only about skincare but also about food and healthy food and cooking. Did you have these passions also before becoming a professional model? Has the fashion industry helped you gain more awareness of what makes you feel and looks your best? I am lucky that I get to work in an industry that allows me to learn so much about different subjects, like skincare, wellness and healthy food. Being a professional model is like being an athlete in a top sport. We travel constantly, you have to stay fit and on top of your health and do your best to always look fresh! When I started modeling I had to consciously start taking care of myself, otherwise I don’t think I would have been able to last this long in the industry. I grew up in nature in the countryside, where we ate fresh food daily from our garden and greenhouse. My wellness journey however really started when I began modeling in Paris, when I was eighteen. I saw so many peers developing dangerous habits around food and this led me to learn how to cook healthy delicious meals that fit into my lifestyle without sacrificing taste. Izé offers a perfect routine for our skin. How important is it, for you, to have a balanced lifestyle, to follow a routine? Routine is so important! I find myself performing at my best when I am settled into my routine. Whether it is my skincare or my workout or my regime, I do everything I can to maintain structure in certain parts of my life. They help me being successful. For my skin it is important to use right products and to make sure I am not switching between different ones. A routine also helps your skin stay healthy, if you are consistent with your moisturizer like our Hydration Oil. Izé is still very young and has a limited selection of products. Do you want to stick to the essential? Are you working on something new? When my co-founder and I started talking about Izé we wanted to keep things simple, with amazing ingredients that actually work. Our plan is to offer more options like a cleanser, which we have been working on for over 9 months now. It took us over two years to perfect our skin oil so we are hoping we can perfect this next product in a shorter period of time, but we are not rushing the process.

Button Down Janashia | Ring Ellie Veil | Earrings Iris Trends | Hair Cuff OV Paris

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Can you explain a bit more about the CBD, the cannabidiol: what are its benefits and how do you implement it in your production? CBD is the most buzzed beauty ingredient at the moment - and perhaps also the most poorly understood. Consumers are obviously interested in CBD skincare but not quite sure what to look for in a quality product yet. Not all CBD is created equal and unfortunately most of the CBD on the market right now is coming from unknown farms in China and is loaded with heavy metals and toxins. We made it our first priority to ensure our CBD contains none of the heavy metals, toxins or pesticides that commonly plague cannabis or hemp-derived CBD. We source our CBD oil from a state of the art facility in Colorado, using USA grown hemp and employing organic farming practices. Our CBD is farmed, extracted, purified and tested all within the same facility to ensure the highest quality. Now to the skin benefits! CBD can help calm down your skin in a few ways. Forper Artsy Dettaglio di dipinto by Damien Hirst at “The Veil Paintings” di Gagosian, Los©Damien Angeles. Foto byinEmily Dettaglio di dipinto Hirst “The Berl Veil Paintings” one, it helps cell turnover, which can improve acne prone skinLosand brighten your al Gagosian, Angeles | foto Emily Berl per Artsy complexion. Plus, because of its potent anti inflammatory properties, CBD can even lessen overactive sebum (oil) production and breakouts.

Damien Hirst. Damien Hirst è uno dei principali del movimento pittorico Packagingesponenti is really important and the delivery system as well. How do you work inglese contemporaneo e la sua arte, geniale e personale, desta grande on them to lower the amount of waste? interesse nella critica. Tema principale è la morte, che Hirst indaga soprattutto in relazioneOur al mondo animale che emergeisdalle sueas little plastic as possible and also as little first priority withe packaging to use opere come un aspetto naturale della vita che accomuna tutti noi. packaging as possible when delivering our oils to the customer. Benny and I get so Nonostante la tematica in sè sia tradizionale, l’artista britannico l’ha frustrated when we order beauty products and they come in layers of bubble wrap, ampliata in modo del tutto originale: animali morti sezionati (così da that, if we made a good product we tissue paper etc. It is so wasteful! We knew mostrare sia l’interno che l’esterno di farfalle wouldn’t needdel allcadavere), the flashy collage packaging to stand out from the crowd. Once again, keep You with many brands like e uncollaborated famoso teschio tempestato di diamanti, fino alla composizione it simple! We decided to use glass bottles to house the oils rather than plastic: they Cartier, Estee Lauder or David Webb, brands della Biennale di Venezia del be 1993 composta da metàAll mucca e metà can reused and recycled. of our secondary packaging and shipping supplies that have their own creative identity. How did che Hirst predilige vitello. Il mezzo d’espressione non convenzionale are made from recycled cardboard. We also decided not to offer any express or you to find thespettatore, balance between theirvuole in realtà eliminare puòmanage creare shock nello ma overnight l’artista shipping to lower our carbon footprint as much as possible. artistic guidelines and your style in these il timore e il dolore che l’uomo prova quando si rapporta alla morte, collaborations? per creare una fruizione serena. Le sue istallazioni sono composte di materiali diversi, da pittura, insieme indagano We scultura know Izée disegno is partner with 1 ePercent forun the Planet organization. You basically Many of these brands were wonderful to work territorio al confine tra arte scienza, cheprofit l’uomotocerca costantemente givee 1% of your it and collaborate for the safeguard of natural habitats with, fortunately! We worked closely together to di esorcizzare attraverso religione la medicina. reazione fisica effort, but in reality it shows how, by alllaaround thee world. It mayLa look as a simple do something that felt both on brand for them istantanea che lo spettatore sperimenta davanti alle istallazioni è laworking together, we can achieve a lot. and authentic to my work style.perchè There solo weredopo un brivido o un parte più importante per and l’artista, times this didn’t always happen (especially sensowhen di nausea, l’audience può una proficuaI grew sulla up in Zimbabwe, Africa, and I’ve been There isiniziare so much weriflessione can do together! inmorte. the beginning), but overtime I have learned so fortunate to get to travel and see the work from so many different perspectives. toNon fight it where cananche - or turn down the project. solo morteIma - e soprattutto vita. “The Miraculous Giving back to the- world is something that I incorporate into the different business I When there’s not a certain respect in the più criticate di Hirst e risale Journey” è una delle istallazioni scultoree am involved in. At Izé, Benny and I focus on the environment a lot. With less is more collaboration it’s often very successful al 2005, realizzata per not l’inaugurazione del for nuovo Sidrareduced Medicalthe Center in our minds, we have amount of packaging and we are actively either party. At the same time there’s sometimes in Arabia Saudita. Le 14 sculture monumentali (sono alte dai 5 agli looking for ways to reduce our carbon11 footprint. We also believe in education, ametri) challenge of èfiguring outraccontano how to create di cui composta il “viaggio” del feto dalla fecon- in the development of young minds. because it is so important something authentic that works for both of you, della vita e toccando dazione fino alla nascita, celebrando il Itmiracolo led me to launch the You/Me Project in 2018, a mentoring program which I findinusuali fun. It may always clear from tematiche per ilnot mondo delbemedio oriente. for high schoolers at schools in New York. the getdivide go. la critica e accanto a chi celebra la sua arte come visionaria Hirst c’è chi ne disprezza lo stile e lo sfarzo. Materiali preziosi, strutture esagerate e moltissimi soldi spesi per attrarre fama e visibilità, senza contare la lista lunghissima di artisti a cui Hirst ha “rubato” elementi e Suit Tako Mekvabidze | Ring Iris Trends idee, senza alcuna paura ad ammetterlo.

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Where do you find inspiration in your daily life? How do you motivate yourself in this challenging project of doing business in an ethical way? Inspiration for me comes from my experiences traveling and the time I get to spend in nature. I love to watch how other cultures approach beauty, fashion and food. We learn a lot from one and other, we learn even more when we keep an open mind. Operating a business with our definition of “ethical” can be a bit complicated. We are taking into account so many things like ingredients, if they are actually clean and natural, packaging options and shippings. From what I have experienced the US is a little behind when it comes to ethical operations and sustainability, but I am basing this of the high standards that Benny and I have for Izé. Finding the right balance between what our customers want, what is better for the environment and our vision is like creating the perfect recipe in the kitchen. It takes a lot of time!

You have been working for some times in the fashion industry: what is your approach to fashion today? Where do you buy, how much and what is your philosophy in that regard? This is a great question and my answer has evolved as I’ve gotten older. Working in fashion has opened my eyes to how many collections come out in a year, how much fashion goes unsold, and the environmental impact that comes from fashion production all over the world. When I am looking for a new piece I check to see if I can find it second hand from consignment websites. My boyfriend began purchasing only vintage and pre-owned pieces, which has inspired me to do the same. I have became a much more conscious shopper and I do my research on the brands I support. I have also been introduced to some amazing fashion brands founded by other women that I really love. I did a big closet cleanup lately: I saved the basics and I have donated what I did not need. Finding ways to be more conscious of how I move through this world has really helped me to see that we need to work together as business owners and consumers to drive change and protect our Home.

Dress Affair

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Total Look Miu Miu


Lines in the Sand Lines, especially the ones drawn in the sand, are made to be cancelled and continuously moved. Next seasons’ fashion adopts the same philosophy and invites us to dress more fluid garments, flexible and loose from every possible static definition. It is not only the end of body’s constriction, but also the suggestion to expand our shapes and let them move and meet the world around us. Nature, after all, is in itself made of exuberant elements which do not limitate themselves but, also, grow bigger and change. Omnia Mutantur: waves in the oceans, dunes in the sand, clouds carried by the wind and us too, in a constant flux that links today and tomorrow forever.

Photography Damian Weilers Art Direction Charlotte Watts Style Dee Moran Models Madeleine c/o Elite Model World and Lottie Select Model London Makeup Wendy Turner c/o Frank Agency using Tom Ford Hair Style Rose Angus c/o S:Managment using Maria Nila Stockholm Post Production Emma Balcomb


LOTTIE: Dress Roksanda | Earrings Chloe

MADELEINE: Dress Roksanda | Boots Legres | Earrings MM6 M aison M argiela


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LOTTIE: Full Look Issey Miyake



Opposite: LOTTIE Shirt, T rousers Vince |Shoes Chloé | Earrings Mulberry

LOTTIE: Shirt Chloé



MADELEINE: Dress Nynne | Earrings MM6 M aison M argiela LOTTIE: Dress Amanda Wakeley | Earrings Mulberry | Boots Legre s


Dress Moschino | Jacket Zara Opposite: Skirt Maison Margiela | Blouse N21 | Shoes Ellery



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LOTTIE: Dress Christopher Kane

MADELEINE : Dress MM6 Maison Margiela



Opposite: Turtleneck Simon Miller | Skirt Maison Margiela | Shoes Aqua

Opposite: Dress, earrings MM6 M aison M argiela | Boots Legres

LOTTIE: Vest Sunspel | Skirt Mulberry | Boots Legres | MADELEINE: Jumper, skirt Pringle of Scotland | Shoes Chlo é

Dress Y/Project | Shoes Aqua


a guide to ACCESSORIES trends to PERFECTLY ENTER IN FW 2020-21 This winter will certainly not be a winter like all the others. The upcoming season will be dominated by uncertainty and anxieties caused by the coronavirus pandemic, with which we may perhaps have to live with for quite a while. Here the autumn-winter 2021 accessories decline the not-so-rosy atmosphere we have in front of us with new and interesting trends partly inspired by the historical moment we are experiencing, partly addressed from the opposite side, leveraging on design, materials and chromatic inspirations that they aim at toning down and making us dream of better times.

Glam AUTUMN Here and opposite: all accessories by Sweet Deluxe Bags: Fringes, Chains and Shearling | Bracelet, Earrings Pearls and Chains

words Ludovica Mucci


An accessory that has dominated most of 2020 and that will continue to be the subject of our daily life is certainly the mask. From an aseptic tool, intended for surgical and protective purposes, the mask has undergone radical transformations in recent months, becoming a multifaceted fashion accessory, to be combined with any dress and occasion thanks to the infinite designs, textures, patterns applied to it. A trend that has emerged in recent months and which will surely have followed in the autumnwinter season is the face mask supported by the chain to wear around the neck. The design is the same as the glasses with a chain (which, as Vogue Italia points out, made a comeback last summer). The idea seems to work, especially because the use of the neck chain seems to be a more hygienic solution than keeping the mask tied to the elbow or hand or worse - folded on the table. The solution is already in vogue abroad, where some international brands have immediately put their product on the market. Lady Gray, Jules Kae and Donni are examples of this. Fringes, among the absolute protagonists of this season. They are everywhere. Chains, extended to dresses, shoes, necklaces and bags, represent one of the dominant trends of the season. Large or small, they are an ornament that certainly does not go unnoticed and that adds that extra touch of aggression even on the most delicate clothes or accessories. The combination of chains with soft fabrics and elegant cuts gives depth to the garments, creating interesting contrasts between harmony and chaos, seduction and constraints. In this regard, it is certainly necessary to mention the current line drawn by many brands which is based precisely on this theme. The juxtaposition of elements belonging to different ensembles creates new meanings and functions, and this is exactly what many fashion players are experimenting with in their collections. Seduction and sensuality, for example, take on different meanings and depths thanks to the combination of less aggressive, more romantic and soft materials. Fetish and fashion have been walking together for a very long time; it is a combination that has its origins from the entry of fetish into popular culture, just think of the Catwoman portrayed by Michelle Pfeiffer, and many other super heroines dressed in black leather and vinyl costumes. p.203


k o o L Top In Fetish: Fashion, Sex and Power, Valerie Steele talked about how only recently some studies on fetishism had highlighted direct links with the social construction of sexuality. To date we have seen how the fashion system is undergoing a radical revolution around this concept and together with this also on that of diversity and in full the idea of ​​beauty. This revolution was undoubtedly led by Gucci, which with the skilful mixing of symbols and meanings is changing an entire system. The Victorian-style dress is its, with lace and embroidery, on which a collar and a bust tied with leather belts have been applied. And Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen is also moving in this direction. Her garments praise a femininity that is not afraid to demonstrate strength, independence and self-determination. Junya Watanable applies bustiers and leather belts also on coats. The inclusion of these leather details especially on dresses, in addition to highlighting a new type of sexuality and femininity,


LATEST aCCESSORIES

also modifies the bodies, declining new silhouettes that move in step with the revolution. To give a new silhouette are also the belts, which almost take the shape of bustiers. Some examples of this very interesting trend are undoubtedly Tatjana Philipp, Saint Laurent, Elie Saab and Rochas. Other fetish elements, like collars and chokers, are revisited with new designs that favor geometric and square shapes, or creating an even more baroque and structured look. Combat boots are still at the centre of the fashion scene, as those of Valentino, Ganni and Rochas. The contrasts continue on the bags, on which different materials meet in new combinations. Velvet seems to be one of the fabrics that we will see the most in the winter season. The sparkle of sequins and precious stones is combined with leather. As for new shapes, this season will be dominated by Bottle bags, which wink at themes such as sustainability, acting as real functional and practical bottle holders. Kenzo, Chloe and Coach offer original options.

Here from up left: TatjanaPhilipp Leather Belt | Ganni Leather Knee High Boots | BY FAR Gina Leather Sandals | Isabel Marant Shearling-Trimmed Boots | Public Desire Boots Opposite from up left: Squared Bag with Chain Sweet Deluxe | Simmi London Sandals with chains Zimmermann Velvet Fringed Clutch | Fredy Bottle Bag | Bottega Veneta Padded Leather Bag Paco Rabanne Iconic 1969 Metal Chain Mail Bag p.205


Jewelery and accessories with pearls continue to appear in the fashion shows, and particular shapes reminiscent of those of animals. Crosses used as a necklace or earrings are perfect for those who prefer gothic and romantic atmospheres. The timeless trend that for some years has continued to rage in the collections is undoubtedly the floral pattern, which for this autumn-winter season will certainly soften the atmosphere thanks to its lightness and freshness. For this season, however, the floral theme also undergoes changes, such as those made by Y / Project, Badgley Mischka and Off-White, which create a single pendant earring in a floral mold. This option takes on a more decorative function than a purely functional one. Floral prints also appear on maxi boots (also a trend of recent years), as on those by Anna Sui, Tory Burch and Rodarte. The flowers are the signature of Sabinna, which for this season offers a headband with paillettes’ flowers applied. To be worn with any garment to make it more sprinting and sparkling. Together with the flowers, the jewels in the shape of stars and hands create an evocative look, such as those of Nicole Miller, Valentino and Victoria Beckham, ideal for the Christmas winter atmospheres, full of magic. If dark times are ahead of us, we certainly know how to illuminate them.

Here from up left: Sabinna Hazel Hairband | Fallon Gold-plated Bracelet | Ashley McCormick 18K Gold & Moonstone Necklace Orelia Gold-plated Necklace | Opposite: FW20-21 shows Max Mara, Chanel, Etro @Gorunway.com| Products from up left: Rosantica Fringed Crystal-Embellished Tote Isabel Marant Leather Waist Belt | Marni Two Tone Shearling Pointed Toe Pumps | Oscar de la Renta Crystal-Embellished Velvet Clutch


LATEST aCCESSORIES

top k o o L p.207


REFLECTION Still life theme in art is recurrent and charged with profound meanings. It is the representation of inanimate objects, usually fruits, flowers, fishes and wildlife, which become the symbol of transience, the unavoidable decay brought about by the passage of time. In the same time however, Still Life is also the promotion of objects which - usually subordinated to men’s usage and power - are now autonomous carriers of values, protagonists as much as human beings. Here, accessories are the main focus of the entire story. Shoes, hats and especially jewels fight for the central stage. Their colours are bright,, their shapes are unusual, slightly architectonic. Fun for sure. If everything is temporary, do remember that jewels are forever.

Photography Maria Dominika Style Malin Rickertsen Set design Carina Dewhurst Model Jona c/o Mirrrs Makeup Susanna Helén Hair Style Kosuke Ikeuchi Assistant. Laura Françis


Blouse Marcel Ostertag | Earrings Aleksandra Seweryniak Opening: Shoe William Fan p.209


Necklace YCCIJ Opposite: Dress Nobi Talai | Earrings Adriane Lila Fecke




Blouse, Marcel Ostertag | Earrings Aleksandra Seweryniak | Pants Daniela Harsch | Boots Luisa Lauber | Stole/scarf (on table) Marcel Ostertag Opposite: Jumpsuit Marcel Ostertag | Hut Klara Pichler | Earrings, Necklace YCCIJ

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Pants Nobi Talai | Top Daniela Harsch | Earrings Jane Kønig Opposite: Blouse Lala Berlin | Earrings LTE (live to express



Bag William Fan Opposite: Blouse Lou de Bètoly | Earrings Kasia Kucharska | Pants Lala Berlin | Socks Falke

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Pants Lou de Bètoly | Shoe Inyati Opposite: Body, Leggings Danny Reinke | Earrings, Necklace, Bracelet Jane Kønig



Sustainable

ITALIAN

TRAVEL

Opposite: Cala Luna, Sardinia by Adele Claassens


LATEST Paradise words Marta Forgione up to page 225

Our beautiful Italy, known by all in the world for beauty of all kinds. Yet we, Italians, often have the desire to travel elsewhere, discover, get out of our cultural normality. Not that it's wrong obviously, indeed, those born with the curiosity of different will only want to see other realities. This year, however, due to the pandemic that we have all lived and are still living, we felt compelled to sponsor and enhance our beloved country. Do you like luxury? Would you like a trip full of relaxation, shopping in the fashion cities, or discover the wonderful and unspoiled nature of remote areas? Or, why not, succeed to reconcile both to never get bored? So let's talk about the fantastic possibility to take a sustainable journey right here, starting from the eternal city, and with some straight to make the path really rich of unforgettable memories. Rent a car. Here is the first step for an unforgettable journey in which you can enjoy landscapes, stop when you want, but above all choose wonderful sustainable hotels that perhaps, unfortunately, are not exactly close to train stations and airports. Whether you arrive by train or plane, in the immediate vicinity you will find various agencies to rent the car that best suits your trip, depending on how many you are and how much luggage you have. We advise you to book your vehicle before leaving, directly when you buy the ticket. You will save money and be able to choose the best car.

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Zero I

ROME, THE ETERNAL CITY The first stop is therefore our beautiful Rome. There are no useful tips on what to see, it is clear that you already know them all and everyone will prefer some places over others. If you are a fashion lover, however, a stop in the center in via Condotti is a must. Stroll through Piazza di Spagna, Via del Corso to Piazza del Popolo, then go up to the Pincio and continue in the greenery of Villa Borghese. If you are a couple, we recommend you to stay at the Domus Stellarum / Polaris. Renovated apartment designed to reduce the environmental impact. In fact, the accommodation facility uses 100% electricity from renewable sources, and reduces water consumption by using special flow reducers. For groups of up to 4 people there is the Florido 'Oasis duplex loft, equipped with the latest technologies in terms of use of ecological paints and renewable energy. If you come in summer, don't forget in the evening the tour of the stalls and bars on boats along the Tiber.


Impact

Marmore Waterfall courtesy badiaccia.com

THE MARMORE WATERFALL (TR) After shopping, museums, nightlife and food, you need a part of the journey dedicated to nature. Located just an hour and a half drive from Rome, near the border between Lazio and Umbria, here is one of the top naturalistic places in Italy: the Marmore Falls. With its three jumps they are the highest artificial waterfalls in the world and, in general, among the highest in Europe. Inserted in a wonderful natural park of extraordinary biological richness, where you can find rare or even unique bird species in Italy. The Park area can be visited for a fee with guided tours. The flow of water is controlled and taken, normally to the extent of 30%, by the Velino river for the production of hydroelectric energy. An advice? Visit the little-known caves that water has dug over the centuries, with stalactites and stalagmites, in the travertine. From the medieval village of Torreorsina, the only village in the Valnerina that overlooks them directly, a panoramic view of the waterfall is possible. p.177 p.223


Top

courtesy anticatorredelnera.com

ANTICA TORRE DEL NERA (PG) About thirty minutes by car from the area of ​Marmore Falls we find this super sustainable hotel, where you cannot fail to stop and spend at least a couple of nights, guaranteed rest. It is a widespread hotel with rooms all with independent access, which will allow you to understand what community life was like in a small historic village in Umbria. Leaving your room, in fact, you will find yourself directly walking in the stone alleys among the small artisan shops. Each of these rooms has a dining room, independent heating, wood-burning fireplace and fine furnishings up to the two-story suites. Just 10 minutes away we find Activo Park, the largest amusement park in Europe completely surrounded by nature and with zero environmental impact. Here you can go rafting, swimming in the river and long walks. After the excursions come back to relax in the modern hotel spa, where you can relive the philosophy of the "ancient Roman baths".


Offer

VALLE DELL’ERICA THALASSO & SPA RESORT (SS) It's time to leave the peninsula... to the island. With your car you can leave Civitavecchia (2h from the Antica Torre del Nera hotel) comfortably in the evening, taking a night ferry and sleeping on the ship. The next morning, early and rested, you will be ready for your Sardinian adventure. Once in Olbia, you will have in front of you a scarce hour of travel to get to this fabulous 5-star Resort. And here the holiday will be definitive, with direct access to the sea and untouched nature. You will be immersed in a 280,000 square meters park equipped with every comfort and very close, among other things, to various areas of the most sought after in Sardinia. And if nature wasn't enough, the “Le Thermae” Center has spa treatments for you, gym, sauna, Turkish bath and four outdoor sea water pools heated to different temperatures. The Delphina Hotels & Resorts group is the first Italian hotel chain (and among the first in the world) in which energy from 100% renewable sources is used in all structures.

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runway

BRIDE

Runway Bride is a love story in bright colours. It speaks about a new generation of women whose main attributes are freedom and determination. They are married to fashion, they exchange promises of eternal support and they are faithful to themselves only. They do not have any limit and, if find any on their path, they just born it down. Do you remember what happens when Thelma said to Louise “You said you and me was gonna get outta town and, for once, just really let our hair down. Well, darlin', look out, 'cause my hair is comin' down!”

Photography Marina Vengut Style Francisco Ugarte Models Naomy Garcia C/O Elite Barcelona & Oliwia Lis C/O Trend Model Management Hair Style, Makeup Mariona Botella c/o Kasteel Artist Management Production Assistant Alexandru Rus


Naomi (Left): Turtleneck, Dress, Boots Vivetta | Hoodie Balenciaga (Mytheresa) Oliwa (Right): Coat Misbhv | Top And Trousers Didu | Shoes Unif

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Oliwa: Total Look Moncler X Richard Quinn | Naomi: Jacket, Sweater Miu Miu | Leggings Versace (Mytheresa) | Boots Vivetta Opposite: Naomi: T-Shirt Gucci (Mytheresa) |Top Marine Serre (Mytheresa) | Skirt, Boots Didu | Tights Miu Miu | Rings La Manso Oliwa: Total Look Moschino | Long Sleeves Top Burberry (Mytheresa) | Boots Misbhv


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Total Looks Filles A Papa




Naomi: Jacket Filles A Papa | Rings La Manso | Earrings, Necklace Misbhv | Sunglasses Burberry Bikini Top Louis Vuitton | Trousers Gucci Oliwa: Blouse Fendi (Mytheresa) | Trousers Filles A Papa | Rings La Manso



Naomi (Left): Turtleneck, Dress, Boots Vivetta | Hoodie Balenciaga (Mytheresa) Oliwa (Right): Coat Misbhv | Top And Trousers Didu | Shoes Unif

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