JOHNLEWIS.COM
CONTENTS 30
Editor's Letter 8 Earth Down - cover story 12
FASHION The Elegance of Red - editorial 30 Must Have: all the trends of the season 44 Liza in the Box - editorial 64 Woven Colours - editorial 76 Yes, Madame. - editorial 86
BEAUTY Above the Line - editorial 102 Skin Longevity: beauty products for this fall/winter - 116
ART Behind Her Eyes - editorial 128 Exhibitions not to be missed this fall/winter 139 The Forest - editorial 140
ACCESSORIES The perfect accessory guide for this fall/winter - 156
LIFE Ritorno a Milano - editorial 164 Stolen Nights - editorial 176 Interview with film producer Jianhao Andy An - 188 Fil Rouge - editorial 194
EDITOR'S LETTER 12
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assword: climate change. I want to focus your attention on the one of the most pressing challenges of our time. Global warming, caused mainly by greenhouse gas emissions from human activity, is having devastating impacts on ecosystems, economies and communities worldwide. Extreme weather events, such as hurricanes, fires and floods, have become more frequent and intense, putting the lives and livelihoods of millions of people at risk. In addition, rising sea levels threaten to submerge entire coastal cities. It is critical that governments, businesses and citizens work together to reduce carbon emissions, promote the use of renewable energy and adopt sustainable lifestyles. Only through collective efforts can we hope to mitigate the worst effects of climate change and protect our planet for future generations. Fashion, like other social phenomena with great resonance, cannot stand aside in sharing the problems of our time. Everyone who has a ‘voice’ must necessarily do something more. Not to mention the fact that a large share of responsibility comes from it and from fast fashion. Editor-in-chief Facebook: @marta.forgione Instagram: @martaforgione
Marta Forgione
JOHNLEWIS.COM
Earth
Down
With this cover story we start here to talk about climate change and put a face to the problem. The two models represent global warming and human beings. The square mirror cube represents the EARTH. By observing, listening and acting around the Earth, we can perceive that our planet is challenged by the circumstances around it. Human beings tend to downplay the problem, for a number of complex reasons. Firstly, the often slow and gradual nature of disaster can make it difficult to perceive the consequences immediately, leading to a sense of denial or indifference. Economic and political issues then strongly influence public perceptions and priorities, with some sectors likely to feel threatened by the measures needed to address the problem. Misinformation and the spread of myths about climate change also contribute to confusion and doubt among people. Also, the phenomenon of cognitive dissonance can lead individuals to ignore or downplay information that conflicts with their lifestyle or personal beliefs. Combating this tendency requires a HUGE joint effort to increase awareness, education and effective communication on climate change risks and solutions.
Photography Genevieve Charbonneau c/o FUZE REPS Style Patou c/o Humankind Management Hair Style, Makeup Jess Cohen c/o Humankind Management Models Sara Ruba c/o Humankind Management & Nicoline c/o Next Canada Post Production Marie-Michele Hayeur
Up: Suit Raquel Allegra Shoes Gianvito Rossi Down: Shirt Egonlab Pants Entire Studios Shoes Gianvito Rossi
THE ELEGANCE of Red Creative Direction, Styling, Production Maggi Geisler Photography Nikos Karpouzis Video Kateryna Bilaya Hair Style Nikola Vuković via the Options club Makeup Rafa Delgado Model Mouna Fadiga c/o Tigers Management Style assistance Diana Lukashuk & Karma Disapio Photography Assistance Nancy Liberopoulou Post Production Polina Mekh
Red. The colour of my mother. The colour that always walked with me. Strength is what it stands for, the strength to be the women I wanne be. To live my life how I want and enjoy it. It was everywhere, always. 20 years passed, another live happend. But now, I am back here, right on this bridge and now I know that it is true. Yes mother. It is the most beautiful colour. Author Maggi Geisler
Shirt Der Egoismus Vest Desigual Shoes Richard Beil
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must have
While the fashion world is increasingly focused on comfort and the expression of our individuality, the combination of new textures and fabrics allows for experimentation with bold colour pairings and the introduction of intense, enveloping tones. Minimalism is still in, but so are extreme layering and exaggerated volumes. This season welcomes experimentation, the search for sustainable and circular materials to pair with the staples of the traditional wardrobe. From London Fashion Week, we get the codes to unlock the style of the 2024-2025 winter season: a practical, functional approach that is at the same time elegant and contemporary. Tailoring is being reinvented, integrating bolder designs, broader silhouettes, and structured and deconstructed cuts. Next winter will be a season of contrasts, and the runway collections encourage us to dare: from fabrics with dramatic drapes to exaggerated volumes for a theatrical effect, paired with lingerie-inspired garments in fluid, seductive fabrics. The fusion of contrasting materials, such as wool and satin, gives the winter wardrobe a sensory feeling, inviting us to explore fashion not only with our eyes but also through touch. As for the colour palette, a newcomer for next year is Future Dusk, an intriguing shade between blue and purple, which, according to colour psychology, can evoke a sense of reassurance and escape. This captivating dark hue draws inspiration from twilight skies, space landscapes, moonlit luminescence, and futuristic high-tech environments. It ranks second only to midnight blue, perfect for glossy, textural fabrics.
Fall / Winter Trends 2024 - '25 words Martina Tondo
Boho Chic: Freedom in Motion 4. 1. Who said boho chic is only for summer? Chiffon, ruffles, lace, and graceful layering are in. This season, the runways showcased a refined approach to memorable trends and fabrics from the iconic ‘70s. Luisa Beccaria’s Fall 2024 collection presents her personal romantic take on the “flower children” vision with flowing dresses, micro floral prints, and head-to-toe velvet. Accessories are key to completing the hippieboho look: oversized sunglasses, long necklaces, gold chain belts, soft bags, knee-high boots, and plenty of suede. The perfect match? A floral maxi dress by Giambattista Valli in pleated silk, paired with bold and contrasting accessories in black and brown tones: the Blake hobo bag by The Row, Jacquemus oversized rectangular pair of sunglasses from the show at Casa Malaparte, Capri, Jimmy Choo’s Brooklyn boots with buckle and rear zipper, and Janessa Leone wool fedora with suede band.
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1. Midali F/W 2024 - '25 fashion show / Guitar 2. Giambattista Valli Floral Silk-Georgette Maxi Dress seen on modaoperandi.com 3. Jimmy Choo Brooklyn Leather Knee Boots seen on modaoperandi.com 4. Jacquemus Rectangle-Frame Acetate Sunglasses seen on modaoperandi.com 5. Janessa Leone Ross Wool Fedora seen on modaoperandi.com 6. The Row Blake Leather Hobo Bag seen on modaoperandi.com
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Liza in the Box
Photography Marco Guastalla Style Francesca Bocca Makeup Vanessa Udovicich Hair Style Ana Rodriguez Laguna Model Liza Karol c/o Special Management Studio Spazioarqua
How to overcome a creative block? When one feels as if locked in a box, it is important to find ways to stimulate creativity and rekindle inspiration. A first step can be to take a break and temporarily detach yourself from the project you are working on, allowing your mind to relax and recharge. Exploring new art forms or techniques, attending a course or visiting exhibitions can offer new perspectives and ideas. Comparing with other artists and sharing one's difficulties can also be very useful, as interaction with creative minds can stimulate new insights. Finally, it is crucial to remember that moments of blockages are a natural part of the creative process and that, with patience and open-mindedness, they can be overcome and turned into opportunities for artistic growth.
Top Simon BlackCracker Corset CoulotteEsaú Balestra Yori Shoes HUI
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Top, Skirt DRIES VAN NOTEN Scarf MASSIMO DUTTI Opposite: Knitwear, Jacket RACHEL ZOE
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ABOVE THE LINE Being above the lines and embracing one's uniqueness is a journey of self-exploration and selfacceptance. It means recognising and celebrating one's particularities and quirks, turning them into strengths rather than flaws. Loving oneself is the first step towards authentic self-esteem, which stems from the recognition of one's individuality and the ability to accept oneself for who one is, without conforming to the expectations of others. Feeling special does not necessarily mean being different from others, but rather appreciating and cultivating the characteristics that make us unique. This positive attitude not only enriches our lives, but also inspires others to do the same.
Photography Genevieve Charbonneau c/o FUZE REPS Style Tinashe Musara c/o Humankind Makeup, Hair Style Katerie Portelance c/o The Project Agency Models: Noe c/o Forward Management & Lou c/o Maven Models Post Production Retouche Clandestine Studio SImone
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Beauty products for this fall/winter? The answer is
Skin Longevity
Words Martina Tondo Photography Tuscany Gray Makeup Dyan Copeman Style Scarlet Anderson Models ADAK PABEK c/o Merci Management & Portia Talib c/o The Talent Buro Post Production Lena Gontsova Jewellery Anna Rossi
September is a month for reflections, new resolutions, and fresh starts. With the summer season behind us, it’s time to take care of ourselves and perhaps revisit some of those New Year’s resolutions that were left unfinished. Whether it’s the beginning of a new work or school year, the most important thing is to start anew, and to do so, one must know how to recharge in the right way. Be yourself, at your best. When it comes to well-being and adapting a beauty routine to our needs, body and skin care must work synergically from both the inside and the outside. The skin is like a temple for our soul, and as such, it must be protected, respected, and preserved. A term that has gained traction in the beauty world and has sparked a movement for the conservation and preservation of our body is Skin Longevity. This philosophy is based on maintaining a healthy and balanced lifestyle in combination with the right treatments to slow down skin aging. Specifically, it aims to prevent oxidation, inflammation, and glycation processes that are responsible for the spread of free radicals. Therefore, in addition to a healthy diet, exercise, and targeted supplements that cater to our body’s needs, September it’s the right time for treatments to restore the brightness and hydration lost due to sun exposure. In particular, treatments aimed at restoring the hydrolipidic barrier and deep exfoliation, which not only accelerate cell renewal but also give more radiance and evenness to the remaining tan. Deep cleansing treatments, masks, and body butters rich in deeply penetrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, retinoids, and vitamins A, C, and E are also highly recommended. Last thing to be remembered is that the end of summer doesn’t translate to abandoning sunscreen – the last step of any beauty routine – to avoid negating the anti-aging effects of the previous treatments.
LATEST BEAUTY l mondo della cosmetica è ultimamente protagonista di un cambiamento molto lontano dall’essere
Foto by Daria Shevtsova
Smart Mirror - HiMirror
p.117 p.114 p.59 p.97 p.133
Behind her eyes
Behind the eyes of planet earth we could see the disaster we are creating, in all its power. Climate change and fast fashion are two closely related issues, whose negative impacts on the environment are now well documented. Fast fashion, with its high-speed, low-cost production model, contributes significantly to pollution and waste of natural resources. Clothing factories emit large amounts of greenhouse gases, use huge amounts of water and often pollute rivers and oceans with toxic chemicals. Furthermore, the short lifespan of garments produced in this sector leads to an increase in textile waste, which ends up in landfills, further contributing to global warming. It is essential to adopt more sustainable consumption practices and to promote quality, durability of garments and respect for the environment.
Photography Rony Curifuta Production Rocío Gonzáles / Rose Estudio Style Stela Plaka Model Grace Carswell c/o Why Not Models Makeup, Hair Style Americo Turtoro Style assistance Francesco Di Giorgio & Sofia Minuto
Dress MITHRIDATE Shoes Madison Maison
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Nature is crying out to us for help. Deforestation is a critical environmental problem that threatens the biodiversity and climate stability of our planet. Every year, vast areas of forest are cleared to make way for agriculture, urbanisation and the timber industry, causing the loss of habitat for numerous animal and plant species. This phenomenon also contributes to the increase in carbon dioxide emissions, as trees, which absorb CO2, are removed without being replaced. Reforestation, therefore, becomes essential not only to restore natural ecosystems, but also to combat climate change. Planting new trees helps sequester carbon, improve air and water quality, and provide shelter for wildlife.
THE
FOREST Production 917 AGENCY Photography Tina Sokolovska Style, Art Direction Iryna Polieschuk Model Tara Dew c/o State Management Makeup Yevgeniya Kozlova Hair Style Sevil Tai Assistance Dmitriy Zolotov Style assistance Tereshchuk Production, Art Direction assistance Anastasiia Melnychenko Post Production, Art Direction assistance Liza Zolotova
Dress CINQ À SEPT Earrings, Bracelets ALEXIS BITTAR
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Bourgeois Elegance
F/W 2024 -'25
accessories words Martina Tondo
While the green “Brat” and pink “Demure” are set to fade like most trends do, awaiting the social network’s judgment, the fashion collections for Fall-Winter 20242025 have dictated classic yet striking inspirations and pairings, suggesting a return to bourgeois style with rich, dark tones. There is no more room for minimalism. The trends embrace the sophisticated elegance of the cosmopolitan woman, immersed in the myriad of stimuli offered by the fast-paced rhythms of metropolitan life. Neoclassical details, tailored fabrics, and precious, enveloping knitwear are the keys to unlocking the style of great icons of entertainment and fashion history who best embodied this trend—or rather, lifestyle. From Coco Chanel to Catherine Deneuve, from Jane Birkin to Grace Kelly, the bourgeois woman uses her clothes as a tool to convey status, representing her belonging to a well-defined social class. A solidified style whose outfits are carefully planned in advance to create coordinated looks from head to toe. An essential monochromatic palette and precious yet functional accessories enrich the outfits of a woman who dresses to leave a mark. Decorations, embroidery, and prints are kept to a minimum in these looks, where the undisputed stars are the quality of the cuts, the refinement of the fabrics, and first-rate threads. The colours are the timeless classics for the cold season: blue, khaki, gray, white, and black. The return of bourgeois style is certainly no news, as history is filled with icons who made us dream with their educated, sober, and determined style. In a world where trends constantly chase one another, bourgeois style remains an evergreen that fashion professionals love to draw inspiration from. A well-established symbol of nostalgia from the past? Perhaps. We prefer to identify it as the ground zero of women’s fashion, a reference point to which one can always pleasantly return.
Opposite: Andres Otalora brown leather bow belt| Bottega Veneta-white large hop hobo seen on modaoperandi.com p.156
Stand-out Belts The belt: functional accessory or beauty statement? Why not both! Often underestimated, the belt holds the great power to elevate or completely transform a look—even for the worse—so careful attention must be paid when adding it to your outfit. This season, designers abound with wide belts, in slight colour contrast to emphasize the waist or as the star of a tone-on-tone look, as seen with Andres Otalora’s leather belt in a tan color, adorned with a soft nappa leather bow. In the 2024-2025 prêt-à-porter collections, belts will be an essential accessory not only for winter but throughout the year. From leather sashes to jewelry-style belts, from cowboy belts to studded rock-inspired ones, belts will cinch skirts and pants at the waist to emphasize the coveted hourglass silhouette. The keyword: dare with mix-and-match fabrics and belt materials to give the entire outfit more character and personality. p.171
Ritorno a Milano Romantic Italy is a fascinating mosaic of beauty, culture and passion. Its femme fatales, enigmatic and seductive figures, embody the mysterious charm of this country, which is also reflected in its art, literature and cinema. World-famous Italian food is a sensory experience that goes beyond mere nourishment: it is a journey through authentic flavours and ancient culinary traditions. Italian cities, with their millennial history, offer a unique panorama where past and present merge in an eternal dance. Strolling through the streets of Rome, Florence, Venice, or Milan you can immerse yourself in a unique atmosphere, where every corner tells a story and every monument bears witness to a glorious past. Italy is not just a place to visit, but an experience to live, an invitation to be transported by its timeless magic.
Creative Direction, Photography Leslie Scholl Creative Direction, Style Adele Tessitore Creative Direction, Video Fabienne Scholl Model Julia Oli c/o Fashion Model Management Hair Style Bruno Spavone Makeup Morena Fazzina
Coat Gianluca Alibrando Heels YSL
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StolenNights The phenomenon we call ‘stolen nights’ refers to those adolescent experiences that many people have not been able to fully experience due to various factors, such as early family responsibilities, school pressure, or adverse socio-economic conditions. During adolescence, a period traditionally associated with personal discovery, social exploration, and carefree fun, some young people find themselves having to give up these experiences in order to face more adult challenges. This can lead to feelings of regret or loss in adulthood, affecting the perception of one's youth. It is important to recognise and address these situations so that all young people have the opportunity to experience a balanced and fulfilling youth, with the right support from family and community.
Photography Daniela Meise Style Heike Heldsdörfer Makeup, Hair Style Tobias Binderberger Model Quincy c/o Goska Management
p.176
Suit, Top Guess Bag Giulia & Romeo Ring Glambou
Exclusive Interview with film producer
Jianhao Andy An
LATEST INTERVIEW
Dwelling by the West Lake is a Chinese film directed by Gu Xiaogang and executive produced by Jianhao Andy An, serving as a follow-up to Gu’s multi-prize-winning debut Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains. Recently, the film received three nominations at the 17th Asian Film Awards, with Jiang Qinqin winning the Best Actress award. The film stars Wu Lei, Jiang Qinqin, and Chen Jianbin. Dwelling By The West Lake Synopsis Mu Lian's father left home and went to Hangzhou for more than ten years without any news since he left. In order to find his father, Mu Lian went to Hangzhou alone to study. When he was about to graduate from college, his mother, Tai Hua, came to Hangzhou to take care of him. While she was picking tea for a living, she fell in love with the tea-picking owner. Tai Hua was about to start a new life, but fate pushed her into another desperate situation. She was driven away from the tea garden by her lover's mother. Then she was deceived by her closest sister, Jin Lan, into the pyramid scheme "Butterfly International". Tai Hua became addicted to it. Mu Lian was physically and mentally exhausted trying to find his lost father and save his addicted mother. "Butterfly International" grew like a vine, planting the seeds of the devil in the hearts of countless people. Tai Hua also changed, from her clothes to her words and deeds, she was like a "newborn", and her crazy behavior surprised Mu Lian. When the mother fluttered in the dream like a butterfly, the son tried every means to rescue her...
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Fil Rouge The legend of the red thread is an ancient myth of Asian origin, particularly rooted in Japanese and Chinese culture, which tells of an invisible thread that binds two people destined to meet and be important to each other. According to legend, this red thread of destiny is tied to people's little fingers and, although it may stretch or tangle, it never breaks. The concept underlines the idea that soul mates are inevitably destined to meet, regardless of circumstances or distance. This belief is often seen as a symbol of hope and eternal love, suggesting that meaningful connections in life are not random, but rather predestined. The legend of the red thread continues to inspire works of art, literature and film, captivating anyone who believes in the magic of human connection.
Photography Stefano Ponzi Art Direction, Style Stela Plaka Makeup, Hair Style Americo Turtoro Model Ella MacWilliams c/o Wave Management Style Assistance Bahar Khatony
Top, Pants JORGE LUIS SALINAS Shoes MADISON MAISON by FRATELLI RUSSO Jewellery CAPSULE ELEVEN
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