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SPRING 2016 - VOL.39 NO.3

HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / SPRING 2016 / VOL.39 NO.3 #HEADWAY SPRING

The

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CONTENTS Hair EDITOR’S NOTE

PROFILE 18 L’ORÉAL STYLE & COLOUR TROPHY: Headway’s winner

35 43 68

RICHARD KAVANAGH: For ghd

70 73 76 92

NEW SALON: Frenchie & Co

SAMANTHA SNOW: Blonde colourist LUST COLOUR COMPETITION: The winners ECO-CHAMP: Davide Bollati NEW SALON: ASC in Parnell BUSINESS: Tabatha Coffey

TRENDS 21 BLONDE EDIT: The business of blonde 45 HAIR NEWS: The latest and greatest HAIR INSPIRATION 49 THE HAIR EDIT: The best of the best 87 NZFW: Headway backstage.

Beauty 7

BEAUTY NEWS

PROFILE 10 SLOW BEAUTY: Shell Pink 12 VITAMIN C: The age eraser 15 SPRING CLEAN SKIN: Dr Catherine Stone 17 GOLD STANDARD: Bronzing 37 NATALIE SOTO-CARLISLE : Makeup artist TRENDS 19 THE BEAUTY EDIT: The best of the best 26 NAILS: The latest trends BUSINESS 33 THE COUNTDOWN TO CHRISTMAS SPA 28 THE VERSACE SPA: On the Gold Coast 38 SPRING ESSENTIALS: Aurora Spa founder Lyndall Michell

it de ed n o

The bl

15

21

28 Versace Spa

17

Gold Standard

26

New nail shades

NUTRITION 40 LIQUID ASSETS: The ultimate smoothie. 11 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

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GROOM LIKE

THE KING

With American Crew

®

Elvis™ Edition Products@americancrew.com

Exclusive To Crew Distributors info@crewdistributors.co.nz or 0800 crew66 ELVIS™ and ELVIS PRESLEY™ are trademarks of ABG EPE IP LLC Rights of Publicity and Persona Rights: Elvis Presley Enterprises, LLC © 2016 ABG EPE IP LLC elvis.com


HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / SPRING 2016 / VOL.39 NO.3

0800 169 600 • DATELINE.CO.NZ

®

MANAGING EDITOR Trudi Brewer trudi@selfcaregroup.co.nz M: +64 9 5795188

ART DIRECTOR Olivia Wimsett - Own Design olivia@owndesign.co.nz

DESIGNER Vanessa Naran vanessa@selfcaregroup.co.nz

PRINTING

TIGI

Treehouse Print

EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Trudi Brewer, Sarah Simpson, Anne O’Brien, Catherine Stone, Liz Lamb, Sharleen Singh, Alex Mead. ADVERTISING RATES SUPPLIED ON REQUEST

EDITORAL Editorial and pictorial submissions are welcomed. All pictures, prints, manuscripts, and electronic media should be marked with the contributor’s name, contact phone number and address. No material will be returned unless requested and accompanied by a stamped, addressed envelope. No liability or responsibility can be accepted for any loss or damage.

CIRCULATION Headway is widely circulated throughout New Zealand hair, beauty, nailsalons and spas.

INTERNATIONAL SUBSCRIPTIONS 1yr (4 issues) for $95 (including GST and postage) 2yrs (8 issues) for $180 (including GST and postage) HAIR COVER COLLECTION: Castaway. HAIR DIRECTOR: Kevin Murphy. HAIR ASSISTANTS: Nathan Gorman, Wade Blackford, Lucy Lasenzaniro, James Nicholson. MAKEUP: Kenneth Higgins. STYLIST: Emily Ward. PHOTOGRAPHER: Luis Murphy. PRODUCER: Debbie Walters. LOCATION: Aldinga Beach, South Australia.

fatboy

HEADWAY® INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND is published by Self Care Group Ltd, 1016A Great South Road, Penrose, Auckland. HEADWAY is published quarterly in March, June, September and December. It is distributed to all paid subscribers, advertisers and their assigns, and widely circulated through New Zealand professional hairdressing and beauty care salons. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organisation making them and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. While every care is taken, no liability is assumed or accepted by the publishers for any omissions or errors in articles, listings and advertisements, or any losses due to any omissions or errors.© 2016 Self Care Group Limited. HEADWAY®, ‘HEADWAY INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND”, and “New Zealand HAIR & BEAUTY” are trademarks of Self Care Group Ltd. All articles, illustrations and materials published herein are copyright and are not to be copied, reproduced or distributed in anyway without the express permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.

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Entrant: Bethany Tweedale. Model: Tessa Western. Photographer: Devanga Wanigasinghe. Make-Up Artist: Siobhan Kayes

Available exclusively from PHB

p: (+64) 7 847 8350

e: sales@phb.net.nz

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Headway | EDITOR’S LET TER

T

Trudi Brewer

Check out our favourite looks backstage at our NZFW wrap where we spent a day with Michael Beel and Sara Allsop - a dream team.

The Headw ay

t NZFW. ma tea

he road to being a natural-looking blonde can be a bumpy one. Regardless of the type of product or colouring technique you select, lightening hair is a service that requires time, patience and attention to detail. It’s also the biggest investment many clients will make in your salon. All good reasons to dedicate our spring issue to the business of being blonde. From pages of inspirational hair looks, to an edit of excellent colour and conditioning products stylists can use to improve their craft. And for those blonde devotees, there are some exciting new trends. International stylists share details on how to shimmer, crystalize and floodlight hair. While local stylists share thier secrets to creating the best blonde business. Right now creating the perfect blonde has never been so inspiring. We have also put together ‘The Professional Hair, and Beauty Edit’ an idea we have been talking about in the office for some time now. Designed to offer guidance and inspiration when selecting and recommending the best products to use and promote. In creating this edit, we thought what better way to highlight these skin and hair heroes than by asking professionals across our industry to offer their favourites. From innovative, hardworking, and nature-inspired brands, as well as colour that is shaking up the hair and beauty landscape. And those can’t-live-without stars that feature in most of these experts very own bathrooms. There is also an overwhelming theme of change in this issue. Yes, because spring is a good season to reinvigorate your spa or salon, staff and skin - but also it’s a great opportunity to shake off those winter blues, plan a holiday and look ahead to what will inspire and motivate you in 2017. To help you on that journey, we have some solid business advice including tips from new salon owners, a divine Italian spa to visit on the Gold Coast, and some simple advice on how to slow down the pace at which we all live, with some lessons on how to cope with managing our frantic lives. Don’t forget to like and share your thoughts on #headwayspring, check out our digital issue at www.headway.net.nz and follow us on Instagram @headwaymagazine. We love hearing from you. All the best for the crazy season ahead - travel safe.

EDITOR’S PICKS: What I love about summer beauty... A fresh new scent by Zadig & Voltaire. Buffing away dry, winter skin with Joyce Blok Body Care Sugar Scrub. Giving my skin a faux glow with ST Tropez Luxe Facial Oil and Jane Iredale Quad Bronze in Moonglow. Encouraging my natural wave with Oribe Curl Gloss.

Like us on Facebook: Headway Magazine Follow us on Instagram: @headwaymagazine 15 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

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Available exclusively from Professional Hair Brands p: (+64) 7 847 8350 | e: sales@phb.net.nz Follow us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/phb.net.nz


PHOTOGRAPHER: Elizabeth Kinnaird. SALON: rokk ebony. STYLIST: Melissa Nixon. MAKE UP ARTIST: Sarah Baxter. INSTAGRAM: @rokk_ebony. www.rokkebony.com.au

Hair

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Hair | AWARDS

AND THE WINNER IS... Meet the winner of the recent L’Oréal Style & Colour Trophy New Zealand’s Hairdresser of the Year 2016 - Mathias Te Moananui.

A

Wellington boy, Mathias Te Moananui was born with hairdressing in his blood. A colourist at the luxurious Buoy Salon & Spa on Willis Street – he has a reputation for his creative freehand colour techniques and attention to detail when it comes to creating beautiful, feminine- looking colour. Te Moananuii picked up the glittering prize of Hairdresser of the Year, along with being the Headway Award winner. We caught up with this talented hairdresser to discover the inspiration behind his winning look, and his dreams for the year ahead.

NOW YOUR FEET ARE BACK ON THE GROUND, HOW DO YOU THINK WINNING HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR WILL IMPACT YOUR CAREER? If I’m honest, I’m not too sure what will change. The main change for me has been my own drive to achieve even more in the years to come.

WHAT IS THE ONE LESSON YOU HAVE TAKEN FROM WINNING THIS AWARD? How incredibly amazing people are. I‘ve been so honoured and humbled by the kindness and generosity of others. It’s refreshing to be reminded of the beauty in people.

WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR INSPIRATION FOR THE CUT AND COLOUR? Dead flowers. I saw photos and paintings of flowers left to waste and couldn’t help but admire the beauty they still portrayed. I wanted to capture that. So I came up with a concept using colours that most blondes profess to hate: yellows, greens and coppers. I wanted to show how beauty is truly all around us and that we just have to keep an open mind. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 18

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oananui, Bu eM oy T Sa s a i

Spa, Wellington. and lon

Ma th

Hair | DAVINES

Above: L’Oreal’s Gary Marshall.

WHAT ABOUT THE STYLING AND MAKEUP, WHAT WAS YOUR BRIEF TO THE TEAM? I am so blessed to know some amazingly talented people and both Nicola Provost (stylist) and Natalee Fisher (makeup artist) are no exception. I just told them my story, showed them my mood board and let them work their magic.

Stay true to yourself. I see many people stress over what they should and shouldn’t do to win. I don’t believe in stitching together an idea that says nothing about who they are just to win a trophy. At the end of the day, if I can stand back and be proud of my work, that’s all that matters. Winning is just the cherry on top.

WHAT IS THE BEST THING THAT HAS HAPPENED TO YOU SINCE PICKING UP THIS PRIZE? Being able to share it with everyone; my partner, my family, my friends and of course my team at Buoy. I would never have achieved this without the help and support of everyone around me.

“I wanted to show how beauty is truly all around us.”

PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

DO YOU HAVE ANY ADVICE FOR STYLISTS ENTERING THESE AWARDS IN THE FUTURE?

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The Sweet Side of Styling Available from Dateline Imports 0800 169 600 www.dateline.co.nz

Hair to die for with the Wet Brush Sugar Skulls collection. A little bit morbid and a little bit sweet, the iconic sugar skull trend comes to America’s favourite detangling brush. Effortlessly and painlessly detangle wet or dry hair with exclusive IntelliFlex bristles.


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Hair | BLONDE EDIT

Blonde Edit

This is the season to go blonde. Here's the latest news, top stylist’s advice, and product innovation, says Trudi Brewer.

1

TIGI New lift and Gloss ash shades

Right on trend and ready for spring, the new ash shades from Tigi available in Gloss and Lift are the perfect way to find the right blonde for any colour service. Straight from the tube or customise a shade and create that stand-out summer look.

2

MALIBU C

For a helping hand at the back basin, this innovative trio of highly-potent conditioners can be used individually for super-charged nourishment or mixed as a custom cocktail. They are 100 precent vegan, cruelty-free and formulated without gluten, parabens and sulfates -and a brilliant addition to any colour service. Pictured here REHYDR8, moisturising conditioner that adds hydration and improves shine. REHABILIT8, protein conditioner that will penetrate damaged, unmanageable hair, in need of deep conditioning. And, ILLUMIN8, shine conditioner an oil-fusion cocktail, for intense shine.

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4

Moisture boost

Coloured hair is porous, so to counter that dryness before summer stylist Nicolas Paul from Nicholas Paul Hair Design in Hobsonville shares why he is crushing on Joico's new K-Pak Colour Therapy Luster Lock?

3

Colour whipser

Colour is something Chinny Yeap from Bouy Salon and Spa in Wellington lives and breathes. Here she shares her blonde inspiration just in time for spring.

What are the ingredients in Luster Lock, and how do they work in the hair?

How can women be a bit more daring with blonde this season, rather than just straight highlights? Jazz up your blonde this season with Joico’s new InstaTint temporary colour shimmer sprays available in all different colours (Fiery Coral, Pink, Orchid, Mermaid Blue & Sapphire Blue), to add a bit of fab into your locks!

What is your favourite blonde look right now? Cara Delevingnes hair colour, it looks effortless and wearable with a different toner every season. An excellent example of this is pulling off a warm blonde, and then transitioning to a cool blonde.

What is on trend with it comes to the colour and tone of blonde? I’m all about the beige blondes, warm creamy hues and beautiful honey tones at the moment. You would have to tailor fit this to individual clients taking into consideration skin tone.

What colour techniques are you most excited about right now?

my clients it adds a shimmer of something different to break people away from their dense blanket colours.

What pastel shade works best with a honey blonde? I think you can get away with almost any pastel it all depends on the individual whether it’s something they can pull off. Colour clash or to blend – subtle or strong. Traditionally, though, you would gravitate to warm pastels with honey to play it safe.

What pastel shade works well with an icy blonde?

QuadraBond Peptide Complex is a protein to strengthen, and the deeply nourishing Manketti Oil and Argan oils, repair and seal the hair’s outer protective layer to lock in colour vibrancy. Silk, soy, and seaweed extracts lend a unique “slip” to prevent damage during styling.

What is the best way to use it? Shampoo your hair, rinse well and towel dry. For fine to medium hair leave for up to three minutes or for medium to thick hair leave on for an extra five to 10 minutes.

What can you expect from this treatment? Your hair will feel instantly stronger, even while it's wet. You will notice fantastic shine and softness, and that easy slip when you are blow-drying.

You would go with cooler pastels with an icy blonde, this type of colour is meant to be fun, and they don't stay in the hair for very long. I always say dare to be different. Instagram @chinneyyeap

Colour layering and multi-dimensional tone on tone, is what I’m loving and so are

@chinneyyeap

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Hair | BLONDE EDIT

6

New lift

Italian made the fast lifting technology (lifts up to 8 levels) of Vitafive CPR Fast Lift 8 Bleach cuts through yellow, brassy and gold tones to reveal a fresh looking, clean, summer blonde. Infused with Pro-Keratine and Argan Oil to strengthen the hair bonds, while protecting the scalp during the lightening process. Vitafive CPR Fast Lift 8 Bleach is available at Beauty Products Direct 0800858585

5

Blonde specialist

When it comes to top-notch balayage getting an appointment with Amiee Marie Faesen Kloet, creative director of Amiee Marie Hair Studio in Beach Haven, Auckland is an exercise in patience. We caught up with the colourist to find out what is on trend when it comes to going blonde this season.

What is new with techniques when colouring blonde hair? Techniques come and go. For example, the balayage technique that was around years ago, is now back and hugely on trend. I think it is here to stay.

What is on trend with blonde colour? Life is busy, and people are time poor so natural-looking, low maintenance blondes are huge at the moment. With my blonde clients, I am using their natural root colour as much as possible. This means no harsh visible regrowth line.

What are you most excited about when it comes to new technology with hair colour? Hair colour companies are all about creating new products that protect the hair as much as possible. Most colour companies are on board with creating shiny, healthylooking colours. Also, new colours are multi-dimensional these days, not blanket coverage like in the past.

@AMIEEMARIEHAIRSTUDIO

What is one thing you will recommend with every client wanting to go lighter this summer? One word Olaplex. I add Olaplex to all my colours, especially my blondes. This product allows me to lighten the hair while keeping the hair strong, healthy and shiny.

What home care do you recommend for lightened hair? Olaplex #3 for keeping the hair healthy, shiny and strong. And Joico KPAK Reconstructor Protein Treatment and Joico Colour Balance Shampoo and Conditioner to eliminate unwanted brassy tones, this combination keeps blondes nice and bright. Instagram @amieemariehairstudio HEADWAY.NET.NZ 24

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7

Seriously Good Blonde Restorers

Nothing keeps blonde locks in top shape like these tinted toners in shampoos, conditioners and mousse.

DELORENZO NOVAFUSION COLOUR CARE SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER Enriched with Rooibos to reduce colour fading and sunflower oil to enhance shine, both fight yellowing and protect your colour from UV rays.

KEVIN.MURPHY BLONDE. ANGEL.WASH This lavender infused, colour enhancing shampoo, contains optical brighteners to rescue dull, brassy colour and restore shine.

ANGEL LAVENDER VIOLET OVERTONE MASK Created for blonde hair, to remove unwanted yellow and brassy tones while depositing cool violet and blue tones.

ORGANIC COLOUR SOLUTIONS STATUS QUO SILVER SHAMPOO The certified organic sunflower seed extract strengthens and protects colour fading all summer.

R+CO SUNSET BLVD BLONDE SHAMPOO Not only will blonde locks be revived and toned, this tinted shampoo is ideal for eliminated yellow from silver hair as well.

FUDGE CLEAN BLONDE VIOLET TONING RANGE For a powerful shot of violet, these toners remove brassy yellow tones leaving it wellnourished.

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Hair | BLONDE EDIT

8

Blonde inspiration

Each spring a woman's hair goals shift. A new cut, and a new colour - with blonde, often the shade of choice. Seasonal mandates aside, in the spirit of embracing change there are a variety of fair options. Here are the colour techniques international stylists are making mainstream.

rooting

Visible roots are no longer a no-no. This is where rooting comes to play. A technique created by colourist Kari Hill from Mèche Salon in L.A. Hill says post-highlights, rinse the hair and then go over the roots with a semi-permanent gloss shade to tone down the colour. “It’s like someone taking the foam applicator of their eyeliner and ‘smudging’ the line to blend the obvious line.” Hand-painting a shadow on the roots, creates that dark-to-light gradation and helps the colour last longer. “It is a more subtle or soft effect; you don’t even know it’s there,” says Hill. Who stresses this is not ombré, “Rooting is just a subtle glossing right at the root area.” Instagram @karihillhair

@KARIHILLHAIR

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock & supplied

shimmering

“When you crystallize a colour, it makes it more light-reflective and shinier as opposed to leaving it pastel.”

crystallizing

The signature technique of New York Hairstory colorist Roxie Darling, is sparkle and shine. Colour that reflects light. Darling's advice. "When you crystallize a colour, it makes it more light-reflective as opposed to leaving it pastel. Crystallizing is used to add more saturation to the colour, to give it a fancier finish, rather than a matte, dry-looking colour." Darling lightens hair with bleach, and then adds the base colour. Once processed, wash with a cleansing cream to dilute the colour and then apply a gloss. Or what she calls the topcoat. "This counteracts the "flatness" that comes with lightening hair. She likes mixing light purple and yellow to create a beige gloss to give that raw, crystal effect. Instagram @roxiedarling

@COLORBYCHADKENYON

Over balayage? Well colourist Chad Kenyon has the solution – and it’s called shimmering. Kenyon came up with the technique working with clients who had blonde highlights, but wanted something customised. "I colour hair with the mindset of a makeup artist, in that I choose tones and placement that will enhance the best features and skin tone, while I diffuse or pull focus away from those features clients don't like." Kenyon works with coral, rose-gold, lilac, and pearl hues. For example, "Rose-gold shimmering can be beautiful, unless your skin is naturally quite golden, in which case rose-gold could wash out a complexion, it's all about painting in shimmers of tones that are flattering." Instagram @colorbychadkenyon

"These days, you want to be in and out quite quickly, it’s nice to have a subtle change and still feel different."

floodlights

Move aside highlights - floodlights are about to be the new way to give hair a permanent sunlit look. Dreamt up by U.K. stylist Karine Jackson, it's like there is a spotlight on your head adding shine and dimension 24/7. Try applying highlights directly on top of the tint, with no rinsing in-between. "The result is the tone of the tint as well as lift, just like when light hits your hair," Jackson says it not only looks cool but helps clients get in and out of the salon faster since there's no intermediate step. "These days, you want to be in and out quickly, it’s nice to create subtle change that still looks different." Instagram @karinemjackson HEADWAY.NET.NZ 26

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AMAZONIA


PHB (Professional Hair Brands) is a New Zealand owned company that is dedicated to supplying New Zealand with premium brands that lead the market in product performance, innovation, ethicality and sustainability. Our mission is to provide professional salons with healthier, cleaner, greener products for our clients and our environment. Our journey is ongoing and we are constantly looking to improve and find the best performing quality brands. We are New Zealand’s fastest growing professional hair care distributor and we deliver our services with innovation and style, always representing current trends and technology. Our sales & education team is located throughout New Zealand. We really pride ourselves on providing an unparalleled level of customer service, technical training and support with the aim of always exceeding the expectations of our customers and consumers. We provide ongoing in-salon training and support for all of our brands. Colour workshops, foiling techniques and seasonal trends are just some of what we have to offer with our extensive and exemplary in salon training plan. Outside the salon we have seen huge success with our platform artists showcased throughout the country. We strongly believe that a partnership with your salon will greatly benefit your business. For more information about PHB brands and products, or to enquire about becoming a salon stockist, please contact us on 07 847 8350 or 0800 652 570.


Hair | ROMANCING THE REBEL

Romancing the Rebel By ROKK EBONY CREATIVES

PHOTOGRAPHER: Elizabeth Kinnaird. SALON: rokk ebony. STYLIST: Melissa Nixon. MAKE UP ARTIST: Sarah Baxter. INSTAGRAM: @rokk_ebony. www.rokkebony.com.au

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Hair | ROMANCING THE REBEL

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Hair | ROMANCING THE REBEL

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5

MINUTES WITH… RICHARD KAVANAGH Backstage at fashion weeks across the globe, ghd styling tools are often seen working their magic as is stylist Richard Kavanagh.

R

ichard Kavanagh is best known in New Zealand for his work as the creative director for Rodney Wayne. But when he is home in Sydney, Kavanagh collaborates with fashion brands and magazines creating looks for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Elle. His celebrity client list includes Kelly Osbourne, Kimbra, Robyn Lawley, and Delta Goodrem, and this month he has landed a new role as creative director for ghd. Kavanagh shares his excitment with Trudi Brewer

CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR RECENT APPOINTMENT AS CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR GHD. WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR YOUR CAREER? Thank you! It’s very exciting to be working with the biggest name in heat styling. ghd is the global leader in innovation and technology and I can’t wait to collaborate with them on up and coming creative projects. 35 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

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Hair | GHD

ichardkavanagh @r

WHAT WILL YOUR ROLE INVOLVE? As ghd creative director I’ll be working on ghd brand campaigns, celebrity styling, fashion shows, and editorial shoots. I will be involved with education and events for the industry, as well as being a spokesperson for the brand to the beauty and fashion media.

WHAT ARE YOU MOST IMPRESSED BY WHEN WORKING WITH GHD TOOLS? It’s simple really. They are the best tools. I’ve always been impressed with ghd’s technological advancement and the performance. They style at the perfect temperature so I get ultimate results with less damage to hair. When I’m on set for Vogue or Bazaar, working with international celebrities or creating looks for a global hair campaign, I simply have to have the very best tools. And ghd make them.

new york fashion week

WHAT IS THE ONE TOOL YOU WON’ T BE WITHOUT? My ghd curve creative curl wand. It’s ideal for creating that effortless texture that every client asks for.

WHAT IS GHD’S BEST-KEPT SECRET? It seems to me that most hairdressers think of hair straighteners when they think of ghd. But as such, I think the best-kept secret is that they have a full range of styling tools for creating any shape in the hair. Curling tongs, creative wands, you name it, my kit is stocked and ready for anything.

huffer

WHAT ARE THREE TOP SUMMER STYLING TIPS WHEN USING HOT TOOLS?

1 2

Thoroughly brush out your hair after styling to give it that lived in feel for summer.

To keep waves looking fresh for the next day, twist your hair up into a chignon when you sleep. That way you won't stretch out the wave and it will last longer.

3

PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

For that super cool rock-n-roll texture in naturally curly hair, and to help seal frayed ends, gently tap your ghd straightener across curly hair to compress the volume but maintain the cool curl.

amarni

stolen girlfriends club

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s l r i G a i Californ By ADAM CIACCIA AND KATIE SANCHEZ

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Hair | CALIFORNIA GIRLS

PHOTOGRAPHER: Jez Rozdarz. CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Adam Ciaccia. SALON: Axis Hair, Canberra, Australia. FASHION STYLIST: Nicole Dwight. MAKE UP ARTIST: Lena Taryanik. www.axishair.com.au HEADWAY.NET.NZ 38

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Hair | CALIFORNIA GIRLS

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Hair | CALIFORNIA GIRLS

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5

MINUTES WITH...

Samantha Snow. A bubbly brunette, that is the queen of blonde. Trudi Brewer investigates.

DESCRIBE YOUR SALON IN 10 WORDS? Fresh, relaxed, minimal, youthful, welcoming, believable, modern, calming, chic and professional.

WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST CHALLENGE AS A SALON OWNER? Managing the expectations of my staff, my clients and myself. Then trying not to take that home.

CAREER HIGH TO DATE?

n t h a sn o w

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Business

WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR INSPIRATION EACH DAY AND HOW DO YOU MOTIVATE YOUR TEAM? Instagram is a massive inspiration for me, it is consistently evolving and makes it so easy to stay ahead of trends. The best way to keep my girls motivated is to keep smiles on their faces. If the girls are smiling, the clients are smiling. And lots of coffee!

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Life

HOW DO YOU FIND BALANCE IN SUCH A PEOPLE FOCUSED, BUSY JOB? Wine and Fleetwood Mac.

WHAT IS YOUR BEST WAY TO SPEND A DAY OFF? Eating, drinking and exploring with my husband. He’s the ultimate person to spend a Sunday with.

FAVOURITE RESTAURANT? We have spent a bit of time at Hallertau, on the Coatesville Riverhead Highway, recently. Their new space has been designed so well, and the menu always leaves you wanting more.

FAVOURITE CAFE? Little King in Milford. We’re so lucky to have these guys next door to us, the coffee and food is top notch.

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied

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here is something very cool about Samantha Snow. Is it her name? Or her enthusiasm for creating a perfect seamless blonde? Or is it the joy she shares for her chosen profession. After opening the doors of her eponymously named salon, Snow by Samantha Snow, in Milford, Auckland just four years ago, she has never had a moment’s doubt. The secret to her success - be realistic. At 27 here is her advice on business, balayage and being the boss.

My salon. I started my career at Mod’s, who sent me to train at their school in Paris when I was just 21. Taking part in their day-to-day values and the way they do business had a massive influence in the way I look at this industry.

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Hair | Q&A

@sinc

Style

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HOW WOULD YOUR FRIENDS DESCRIBE YOUR STYLE?

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Classic. I have my classic staples, big coats and converse sneakers. However, I would call it classic with a hint of street style. And in summer relaxed, denim shorts are always the way to go.

FAVOURITE NZ AND INTERNATIONAL DESIGNERS? Celine Rita, she is always changing up classic shapes. Internationally, Chloe, for being so feminine and flawless.

WHAT HANDBAG WILL YOU CARRY THIS SPRING? Deadly Ponies for sure.

FAVOURITE PLACE TO SHOP? The Iconic. Running a business leaves you little time to stroll around the shops.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE FRAGRANCE? Jo Malone, Nectarine & Honey Blossom.

Culture

FAVOURITE FASHION AND BEAUTY WEBSITE? www.theyallhateus.com, editors Elle and Tash offer the best style inspiration.

INSTAGRAM STALK? @sincerelyjules - so much envy daily.

MUST HAVE GADGET? My Nespresso machine.

FAVOURITE TRAVEL DESTINATION? New York. Hands down, that city stole my heart.

WHAT IS YOUR DAY-TO-DAY FASHION LOOK FOR THE SALON?

Hair

Generally black. I think it looks professional and smart. Or anything I can pair up with my sneakers or brown ankle boots.

Keeping the colour seamless. The trick is flow, not knowing where the colour starts or stops.

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WHAT IS YOUR BLONDE SECRET?

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WHAT IS TRENDING WITH BLONDE COLOUR FOR SPRING? Think Margot Robbie. Lots of buttery blonde, and having flashes of a creamy tone for shine. So many blondes strive to make their hair as ash as possible, where it may not prove to be the best hue for their skin tone.

FAVOURITE SPRING LOOK? If you’re up for it, a short choppy fringe. This can feel like a big change, but the look is all about embracing the natural wave and having a slightly tousled fringe.

WHAT PRODUCT IS A GAMECHANGER FOR GOING BLONDE? Oleoplex, without a doubt.

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ANTI-AGEING SHOT

Hair news

The latest innovation in hair technology is Kevin Murphy Anti-Aging Cruet. This small but intense treatment, utilises the power of plant stem cells to stimulate growth, rejuvenating hair and improving the strength and shine.

By TRUDI BREWER

Now available in two strengths, a leave in moisturiser that shields hair from the damage of UV rays and replenishes moisture - leaving it healthy-looking and hydrated. This is the answer to keeping hair in shape this summer.

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NEW

DE LORENZO PRESCRIPTIVE SOLUTIONS HAIR MOISTURISER

USH R B

Limited Edition Skull Range Designed specifically for damp hair, the Wet Brush contains super strong, flexible bristles to detangle hair easily, preventing breakage, regardless of the hair type.

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Hair | NEWS

Hair Art To give your hair an edge for the party season, Joico InstaTint temporary colour shimmer sprays could be just what you need. They offer a shot of fun colour that lasts up to three days and washes clean when you’re sick of that look. Perfect for the inner artist in you, they’re available in five fun colours. This is an easy way to create Instagram-worthy looks for the holiday season ahead.

GLIDES NEW FLEXI BRUSH

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This new innovative brush from Glide gently slides through the hair, removing knots, while massaging the scalp at the same time. There are two new brushes in the range, fine to medium and coarse to medium. The pins in the silver head and boar bristle gently work through the hair and redirect the natural oils; a must for anyone that suffers from hair loss. For all hair types, including children’s fine, knotty hair - it’s a summer essential. Visit www.glidehairtools.com.au to locate your nearest stockist.

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GHD GOLD COPPER LUXE COLLECTION

This party season, let your hair be the star with the ghd copper luxe collection. From innovative platinum stylers, hair dryers and wands proven to reduce hair breakage by 50 percent. Break the rules but not your hair.

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KEVIN MURPHY SMOOTH.ME DUO SUMMER PACKS

The ultimate frizz fighting duo, Smooth.Me combines the best in hair smoothing technology, Smooth.Again and Luxury.Wash, they add shine and replenish moisture, leaving you with silkier, more luxurious hair, wherever you are - it’s the ideal beauty gift. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 46

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Hair | NEWS

ELEVEN AUSTRALIA SMOOTH AND SHINE ANTI-FRIZZ SERUM

Hybrid Bru t e s ll

A must for those 40’s plus. Living Proof Timeless range works to protect hair against the main causes of colour fade. Silicone free, this three step regime works to strengthen and protect hair and seal in colour for a more vibrant and long-lasting hue.

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Our summer essential is enriched with argan oil, the Eleven Australia Anti-Frizz Serum works as a treatment to leave hair shiny with zero frizz.

LIVING PROOF TIMELESS RANGE

hen you can simply w ir ha ur yo g in en ht ig s stra Why waste endless hour ith ceramic plates w e et pl m co , sh ru B d ri Bullet Hyb brush it? With the Silver ir in just one sweep. ha th oo sm y, lk si e se ll and heated bristles, you’

BED HEAD FULLY LOADED COLLECTION Say goodbye to limp, flat hair and hello to luscious locks with the Bed head fully loaded collection. With its innovative new technology, be prepared for thicker, more voluminous style that lasts for hours.

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TIGI 24/7 Education App TIGI 24/7 provides hairdressers with the tools and education they need to improve their techniques and service skills. This App includes a complete library of colour and cutting techniques with videos and step-bystep guides - we’re hooked. Download from the AppStore.

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New salon… Colleen in Auckland’s K’Road. Veteran stylist Lauren Gunn loves her new ‘collective space’ and tells Trudi Brewer how this luxe salon has a real community vibe.

How did you come up with the name? Colleen is Irish for lass or girl – I just liked it.

MAIN IMAGE: PHOTOGRAPHY: Simon Upton @The Artist Group. ART DIRECTION: Jonnie Vigar @ Container Made. HAIR: Janelle Chaplin @ O&M MAKE UP: Peter Beard @ Work Agency. STYLING: Mikey Ayoubi & supplied.

What is a collective space? Most of the people working here are working for themselves. Including freelancers who might have two days in the salon with clients, and then like me work on TV commercials; fashion weeks or photo shoots. All the big session stylists around the world do this and it works. I love having people around me that have lots of projects going on at one time, it makes a working environment way more vibrant and way more creative.

What changes have you made that are different to mainstream salons? We are a paperless salon; everything is processed on iPad, including the bookings, payment and receipts. We use the company ‘We Compost’, for all our waste, so everything is recycled. From the Bio-Towels, to the coffee and colour tubes, which is so much better for the planet.

The building was a big project, where did you start? We signed the lease in January, so it has been a long project. The building was derelict, and we have worked with the landlord in a collaborative way to restore it, which was new for me, and a first for him. It was both challenging and rewarding at the same time. Seeing it finished he had tears in his eyes at the end, which was so nice.

Where did you get the idea for the interior? The Willem de Kooning painting ‘Door to River’ that is hanging in the Whitney Museum of American Art in New York. The colours and texture from the paint finish emulate the colours in the artwork –the pink on the ceiling and the yellow open kitchen.

What’s on Colleen’s menu? Everything most salons offer, but I am trying to steer away from adding layers to a hair service. I want Colleen to be as warm and as personal as possible. I have always loved when you walk into a Japanese restaurant and everyone in the kitchen calls out, 'Hey,' that is the feeling we are trying to create.

What brands do you use? We are using Kevin Murphy colour, which is beautiful. Kevin Murphy styling, Eleven, SACHAJUAN and Evo. Colleen466 K Road info@colleen.nz HEADWAY.NET.NZ 48

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Headway | PROMOTION Hair | EDIT

HAIR EDIT Working with the best hair products makes the job of a top stylist easier, and can be the difference between a good and a bad day for clients. We enlisted the help of these professionals to share game changing brands they rely on everyday.

MEET THE PANEL

Grant Bettjeman Bettjemans Hair Salon in Auckland

Danny Pato d&m Hair Design in Auckland

Wayne Richardson Kitzo Salon & Beauty Spa in Hamilton

Shar Sutherland Sutherland Todd in Christchurch.

Trudi Brewer Editor Headway Magazine.

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Innovation

The growing trend of products that transform the look and feel of hair, is all thanks to high-tech innovation. Here are some of those cutting edge essentials.

INVERSE HAIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM Frozen plates that literally eliminate frizz from curly hair, by locking in moisture.

TOPPIK A cosmetic product used to camouflage thinning hair and hide bald spots.

OLAPLEX Lightening hair has never been so easy or so nourishing with the addtion of this cream.

ORIBE GOLD LUST TRANSFORMATIVE MASQUE This cream has the ability to restore hair back to it’s very best.

FRESH HAIR.BY KEVIN MURPHY The one and only dry cleaning shampoo, that will rejuvenate hair in any state.

WOW ROOT COVER UP A mineral magnetic powder that you brush on roots to conceal regrowth that stays put until you next wash your locks.

BIO TOWEL Salons across the country would not be without these sustainable wood fibre towels. For their ability to reduce water and power consumption - they’re genius.

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Hair | EDIT

Hard Working

To perfect a blow dry or master the art of session styling, here are the products that deliver on thier promise - everyday. KEVIN MURPHY BODY BUILDER Best mousse in town, and it also comes in a handy travel size.

ELEVEN MIRACLE HAIR TREATMENT Adds shine and controls frizz while repairing damaged fragile hair.

LIVING PROOF CURL LEAVEIN CONDITIONER Oil and silicone-free, your curls will never be more manageable or shiny.

ORIBE DRY TEXTURIZING SPRAY Cooling on the scalp, it will add grip and texture to any style finished with a delicious citrus scent.

WELLA EIMI BOLD MOVE: Perfect for adding texture once hair is dry, rub a little in your hands massage through the ends.

TIGI BED HEAD REBOOT SHAMPOO Scalp-calming and super balancing, for hair that has been to hell and back – this wash will restore and revive locks.

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Nature inspired

From natural to organic, these unique products are designed to be kind on hair and good to the planet.

IMPRIVO RANGE Pure and totally natural protection for fragile hair. Ideal before and after any chemical service.

ECO KID LICE BOMB Certified organic - at last a safe way to treat lice in kid’s hair. No pesticides, no sulphates and no chemicals - it’s genius.

WELLA PROFESSIONALS ELEMENTS RANGE It will renew the hair from roots to ends, preserving the natural inner structure and strengthen every strand.

DAVINES NOUNOU SHAMPOO. A winner of an Allure magazine ‘Best of Beauty’ award last year, this nourishing shampoo cleanses and restores damaged, dry hair.

DE LORENZO AFTERGLOW This anti-humidity shine spray is made with a blend of natural organic ingredients including goji berry and the Australian desert raisin.

O&M HYDRATE & CONQUER SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER Rich in sea-based nutrients, vitamins and aminio acids that strengthen hair and stimulate growth.

PUREOLOGY From dry to lifeless, a range of shampoo and conditioners that are sulphate-free, with 100 percent Vegan ingredients.

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Hair | EDIT

Colour

Today’s hair colouring options offer shine, moisture and innovation - here are some standout players. DE LORENZO NOVASEMI SOFT COLOUR MOUSSE Ammonia and peroxide free, this toning mousse lasts for up to 10 washes, and will hide the first signs of grey - there are 10 shades.

COLORPHLEX HAIR COLOUR STRENGTHENING The naturally derived vegetable protein added to each colour service, strengthens the hair bonds and locks in excellent post colour shine.

REFOIL PRE CUTS Save time and the planet, with the Refoil strips that create beautiful colour and can be recycled with ease.

JOICO TINT SHOT ROOT CONCEALER Disguise regrowth in seconds with this flash-dry formulation that’s humidity resistant and creates the illusion of thicker, fuller hair - there are four shades.

KEVIN MURPHY COLOR.ME FRINGE. BENEFITS Inspire clients with a new colour by simply pinning in a fringe swatch to demonstrate how a new shade can flatter the skin tone.

KEVIN MURPHY COLOR.ME Permanent colour that leaves hair in better shape than before it was tinted - stylist’s call it ‘a miracle worker’.

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Hair | EDIT

Can’t Live Without KERASTASE L’INCROYABLE BLOWDRY Adds moisture for days, so come summer your style is frizz -free.

EASY.RIDER BY KEVIN MURPHY A firm hold, matt texture paste that controls even the most rebellious hair.

DAVINES OI ALL IN ONE HAIR MILK What this oil can’t do for hair is not worth mentioning. It fights frizz, softens and protects against heat styling.

ORIBE CREME FOR STYLE For straight or curly hair, this creamy styler keeps frizz at bay and your style in shape, all day.

WELLA SYSTEM PROFESSIONAL LUXE OIL RANGE Its divine vanilla scent demands attention, and you only need one or two drops to create a beautiful soft result.

ANGEL GRAPEFRUIT THERMAL PROTECTION SPRAY Packed with vitamin C it leaves hair silky smooth post heat styling.

LIVING PROOF BLOW OUT Cuts your blow-drying time in half, and locks in a smooth-looking style.

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied

There are some hair products stylists keep well guarded. Here are those gems they will not be without.

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Hair | LUNA

LUNA By UROS MIKIC

PHOTOGRAPHY: Andrew O’Toole. MAKE-UP: Kylie O’Toole. STYLING: Vass Arvanitis. www.kinkycurlystraight.com.au HEADWAY.NET.NZ 56

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Hair | LUNA

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Hair | LUNA

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Headway Hair | LUNA | PROMOTION

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Hair | KEVIN MURPHY

castaway By KEVIN MURPHY

COLLECTION: Castaway. HAIR DIRECTOR: Kevin Murphy.HAIR ASSISTANTS: Nathan Gorman, Wade Blackford, Lucy Iasenzaniro, James Nicholson. MAKEUP: Kenneth Higgins. STYLIST: Emily Ward. PHOTOGRAPHER: Luis Murphy. BEHIND THE SCENES PHOTOGRAPHER: Ollie Freeman. PRODUCER: Debbie Walters. LOCATION: Aldinga Beach, South Australia. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 62

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Headway Hair | KEVIN | PROMOTION MURPHY

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Headway Hair | KEVIN | PROMOTION MURPHY

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Hair | KEVIN MURPHY

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Hair | LUST COMPETITION

COLOUR LUST Hair colour is going through a brilliant transition right now. And what better brand to highlight this change than Lust. Here are the winners of the 2016 Lust Semi-Permanent Hair Colour Competition.

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rom flashes of vibrant, rainbow-inspired shades to soft, pastel creations with a feminine edge right now women can celebrate colour in a brand new light. This was the motivation behind the latest Lust Semi-Permanent Hair Colour Competition. Guest judge and award-winning hairdresser Michael Beel from Bouy Salon and Spa in Wellington, selected the winners and was impressed. "The winning looks all told a story. Beautiful models, artistic colour placement and simple silhouettes will always, in my mind, beat something that looks too contrived.” Meet the winners.

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egory - first place t Ca

Winner

NADIA HOWARD PARAPARAUMU.

For Nadia Howard, a sharp cut enhanced this statement colour. Beel gave us some insights into the winning looks and what other stylists can do when entering competitions. “The model gave this entry, a strong advantage. “Picking the right model is crucial. A beautiful young woman will get you halfway there.”

ENTRANT: Nadia Howard. MODEL: Hannah. STYLIST: Nadia Howard. PHOTOGRAPHER: Amy Jacobs. MAKE-UP ARTIST: Kayla Wall. CLOTHES STYLIST: Nadia Howard.

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Hair | LUST COMPETITION

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Second place

BETHANY TWEEDALE, WELLINGTON. ENTRANT: Bethany Tweedale. MODEL: Tessa Western. STYLIST: Bethany Tweedale. PHOTOGRAPHER: Devanga Wanigasinghe. MAKE-UP ARTIST: Siobhan Kayes. CLOTHES STYLIST: Bethany Tweedale.

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The clever use of pastel pink and violet hues saw Tweedale scoop up the second place award. Beel believes that while pastel colour techniques are here to stay, they must have broad appeal. “Make sure hair looks healthy, touchable, and most of all luxurious. Regardless of the colour, it needs to appeal to a broad range of consumers and help you lift the profile of your business, and product partners.’” He adds the finished look should be, “Healthy, shiny-looking hair.”

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3 Third Place

EBONY MACKENZIE, WHANGANUI.

An edgy, yet feminine colour result was the reason Mackenzie took out the third place. Beel was impressed and said the winning look had an editorial feel. “Think what would go on the cover of a magazine. Have you ever seen the back of the head or a shot from the top of the head? A winning hair look should be shot with the model looking at the camera.” ENTRANT: Ebony MacKenzie. MODEL: Nirvana Adams. STYLIST: Ebony MacKenzie. PHOTOGRAPHER: Nicci Forlong. MAKE-UP ARTIST: Ebony MacKenzie. CLOTHES STYLIST: Ebony MacKenzie.

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Hair | NEW SALON

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Frenchie

Co

Today the global trend in salons is to deliver more than a cut and colour. Trudi Brewer discovers Frenchie & Co meets that brief.

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e are always on the hunt for boutique beauty bars that offer a luxe environment, relevant services and excellent stylists. Enter Frenchie & Co in Takapuna, the little sister of Frenchie & Co in Browns Bay Auckland, where more than a cut or colour is part of the service. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 70

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Hair | NEW SALON

"The destination needed to be inviting and luxurious, where women could relax and feel number one."

What's on offer? From a mani to waxing, you can even treat yourself to a set of exquisite KissKill or Queen of the Foxes lingerie at this concept salon that prides itself on making you feel like a princess. This salon is the brainchild of owner Brodie Proykova, who started her beauty career at Strip Wax Bar in London. On returning home, she was side tracked into the corporate world of e-commerce and found herself becoming one of those busy women who never had time for the important things in life. "I always wanted to create this type of beauty business where women can feel special, whether it's booking in for a deluxe hair treatment, girls day out, or simply routine beauty maintenance such as waxing. And the destination in mind needed to be inviting and luxurious, where they could relax and feel number one," says Proykova. The idea of Frenchie & Co has been on hold for some time - but earlier this year that dream was made a reality, and now with two salons under her belt, Proykova is scouting for a third. And the name? "There is no deep story behind it, I had a short list and I photoshopped the logo on shop windows to see HEADWAY.NET.NZ 72

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Hair | NEW SALON

"I always wanted to create this type of beauty business where women can feel special." which name looked best, and Frenchie & Co was it." The shelves are lined with Davines hair product, Kester Black nail lacquer, sexy lingerie and a summer essential; Coola Sunscreen. But best of all they are open on Sundays. With a move toward boutique salons, without a frantic vibe, Frenchie & Co is restful and relaxed. It meets the global trend, of slowing down the pace of your beauty service in order for you to unwind from your busy lifestyle. And in our touch-less world, where we all suffer from 'rushing women's syndrome' this is a beauty sanctuary where you will relax, and emerge a prettier, happier version of yourself.

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It’s rare to find a more passionate ambassador for the environment than Davide Bollati, founder and chemist for Davines. Here’s his vision for his brand and our planet.

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s a hair company Davines’ is on fire. Not just for lifting the bar when it comes to sustainability in our industry, but for the message he is spreading. With green initiatives, including sustainably sourced ingredients and replacing plastic bags with reusable cotton, they are about to open a new village run purely on renewable energy, dedicated to plant research. Set to open its doors early in 2018, the new ranch-style compound sits on 11,000 square metres of fertile land in Parma, Italy, and will be the new home for this eco-focused brand. Along with a skin bar to sample the brand’s beauty line Comfort Zone, a salon, and education zones, there is an organic restaurant surrounded by a sprawling biodynamic garden. Today, Davines can be found in most top salons across the country. Its products blend efficacy, purity and charm, and are designed to influence your business and the community you live in. The eco-champ driving these changes is Davide Bollati. Here are his thoughts on climate change, and the new permanent colour - Mask.

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Hair | DAVINES

WHAT EXCITING CHANGES HAS YOUR COMPANY MADE IN NATURAL BEAUTY OVER THE PAST 30 YEARS? As a company, coherence and transparency are the two changes we have chosen to adopt. We have been in sustainable beauty exploration for the past 15 years, and now we have got to a point where the magic is starting to happen.From transparency in the supply chain, to the packaging, formulation and the way we speak to our clients. So everything we do has far more impact.

NATURAL PRODUCTS ARE THE FASTEST GROWING CATEGORY IN HAIR AND BEAUTY. WHY DO YOU THINK WE HAVE SUCH A THIRST FOR THEM? It has taken 25 years for people to realise that the planet cannot be taken for granted. When Al Gore’s documentary ‘An Inconvenient Truth’ launched back in 2006 the world took notice. Until that time scientists debated global warming, as did politicians, and since then we all agree that mankind is the one animal responsible for changing our ecosystem. So, it’s time to do something. Climate change is challenging the resilience of our planet, and I think we are becoming more aware of that. If we keep growing at this pace, seven billon people, with a prediction of 10 billion by 2050, and continue spoiling our planet, it’s a matter of decades, not centuries when we will have to live with the consequences.

WHAT ARE YOU MOST EXCITED ABOUT FROM A FORMULATION PERSPECTIVE? Our strategy is to combine sustainability with performance. At the same time, our model inspiration is Elon Musk who built the Tesla car. It is the first fully electric sports car, the fastest car in the world, faster than a Ferrari and at the same time, it’s the most sustainable, using renewable, solar energy. We want to be the Telser of the beauty world. So, how do you become that? We follow the principles of common sense. Not creating any molecule that is not biodegradable, not taking anything from nature that is not sustainable, and not putting anything damaging into the atmosphere. And, we are also substituting mineral and petrochemical oils with plant-based chemistry. This is the most exciting aspect of our business; through the study of plants we can really make a huge difference.

“We follow the principles of common sense. Not creating any molecule that is not biodegradable, not taking anything from nature that is not sustainable, and not putting anything damaging into the atmosphere.”

WHAT IS THE GREATEST CHALLENGE? You can never do enough. Sustainability is like climbing a mountain without a top. But with that comes the drive to do things better. We are working on the sustainability of our supply chain and encouraging our clients to do the same. To look at where the ingredients come from and what we can do better. After many years, we are finally creating hair care driven by innovation and not marketing.

TELL ME ABOUT THE NEW PERMANENT COLOUR MASK WITH VIBRACHROM?

Davines Mask with Vibrachrom comes in over 80 shades, from naturals through to vibrant reds and cool blondes. With activators from level 5-40 volume, this colour will give 100 percent white coverage on fine to normal hair, and for most shades (other than lightening up to four levels), development time is only 35 minutes. For more information visit www.boutiquebrands.co.nz

PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

It’s very exciting new technology, which encompasses extreme shine, unique conditioning properties as well as colour durability. We researched a quinoa grown in Peru that’s high in protein, and once on the hair, it increases colour retention and minimises oxidative stress. Omega 9 forms a lipid film on the hair to smooth and nourish, which gives shine. And finally, the active ingredient never used in a cosmetic before comes from the textile industry. Known as a phospholipid carrier, it helps colour pigment penetrate into the hair to increase the intensity.

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Hair | NEW SALON

ASC

salon

In the quaint village of Parnell you will find ASC salon. Trudi Brewer meets its savvy owners and investigates this charming space.

A

SC is the brainchild of husband and wife team Stephen and Andrea Cockle. With 40 years experience between them, hairdressing here and in London their vision was to create a haven that offered top-quality products, sustainably sourced beverages and world-class service. Here’s their advice on creating a luxurious space.

HOW DID YOU FIND THE LOCATION, AND WHY DID YOU CHOOSE PARNELL? We wanted somewhere central, and we like the Parnell neighbourhood. We are surrounded by lots of interesting owner-operated businesses, who have a genuine sense of the community. Plus when we saw the building, with its heritage features and fantastic city views - we were sold. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 76

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Hair | NEW SALON

WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR IDEAS FOR THE FIT OUT? We worked with Material Creative who built on our ideas of using industrial elements, and then adding soft touches, like the wallpaper and royal blue velvet couch. We knew we wanted a bar, where our clients were able to relax with a glass of wine or beer, while their colour is processing instead of staring at themselves in the mirror.

WHAT WAS YOUR VISION FOR THIS SPACE? We wanted to pay homage to the beauty and age of the building but add some contemporary design features, and we’re thrilled with how it’s turned out.

WHERE DID YOU SOURCE THE INTERIOR FINISHES? Almost everything in the salon was custom made. We’ve worked in the industry for over 40 years collectively, so we knew exactly what height and spaces we wanted. From the width of the shelves for clients coffee to rest on, to the need for handbag hooks, to the separate colour and cutting floor. These details added to the overall design.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE OTHER STYLISTS OPENING A SALON? You have one chance to get it right. Engaging the help of a design team is imperative. It is important to have the right people working on your project. Our project manager was an integral part of the execution, and we couldn’t have done this without him.

WHY DO YOU HAVE A SEPARATE COLOUR AND CUTTING FLOOR? The idea was to create a more tranquil space for those having colour as they are with us much longer. It needed to be relaxing and spacious - that home away from home feeling. Having the L-shaped lounge has been extremely popular, and has added to clients having a relaxing experience.

WHAT IS SPECIAL ABOUT THE STYLING MENU YOU OFFER? We have initiated the ASC Style Club. Whether our clients need a quick style, a blow-dry or hair up for an evening out, we cater to those who have limited time. We also offer a bespoke menu of Davines hair Indulgent Rituals, the most luxurious being The Restructuring Miracle - it’s a divine experience.

WHAT COLOUR AND STYLING BRANDS DO YOU USE AND WHY? We use Davines and R+Co products. Davines is committed to natural ingredients and has a sustainable ethos, which is hugely important to the ASC philosophy. R+Co is fantastic for styling, and all the products are free from parabens, sulphates, mineral oil and petroleum.

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WHAT IS YOUR MOST LUXURIOUS SERVICE? Our Indulgent Ritual services. Nothing beats treating your hair with the amazing Davines products while receiving a long and luxurious head and neck massage.

PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE YOUR CLIENTS TO LEAVE THINKING? One of the core goals of ASC is for the salon to be an extraordinarily welcoming environment and one with a sense of community. We want clients to leave feeling happy and relaxed like they’ve just been visiting at a friend’s house.

WHAT ARE YOU MOST PROUD OF? Everyone, who has been part of making our dreams a reality. From builders to designers, our amazing landlord, family, friends, and our incredible team. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 78

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Headway ||PROMOTION Headway PROMOTION

REACHING NEW HEIGHTS Hair stylist David Roe broke the mould creating Inverse Hair Conditioning System. Trudi Brewer catches up on his success, to discover there is more to this hair tool than frizz fighting.

FROM THAT LIGHT BULB MOMENT, CREATING INVERSE, WHAT HAS BEEN THE GREATEST ACHIEVEMENT? Bringing Inverse to market has been the most surreal experience. Seeing retail shelves stocked with your idea, and completely selling out with a backlog of customers desperate to get their hands on the system, is just priceless. I’ve been on a steep learning curve and have been fortunate to have a team of people as part of the Inverse family which are incredibly talented, dedicated, and a passionate group of people who all live and breathe Inverse.

OVER THE PAST YEAR WHAT HAS SURPRISED AND DELIGHTED YOU THE MOST ABOUT INVERSE? The two Inverse experiences that stand out are; the transformations that take place when people start using Inverse and the results in the customer experience. Comments such as “my hair has never felt or looked so good” and “I can’t believe the difference” are so rewarding. All those years of research and development have come to fruition. Inverse works. Next would be the overwhelming demand from the rest of the world. The whole world wants Inverse.

HOW HAS THIS HAIR TOOL CHANGED WOMEN’S LIVES? Inverse saves time, money and breathes new life into tired, stressed, dry hair, all without nasty chemicals. Hypersensitivity affects almost 15 percent of the population. Of that, 60 percent are woman with the cause being directly attributed to what we put in and on our bodies. Inverse helps to mitigate this. Straightening services and blow-waves last longer because hydrated hair resists humidity eliminating frizz and fly-aways. Heat damage is reversed and

colour stays vibrant. It’s a game changer.

WITH SUMMER FAST APPROACHING, WHAT IS YOUR ADVICE ON HOW OFTEN YOU SHOULD USE INVERSE TO KEEP FRIZZ AT BAY? Increase your Inverse usage to every chance you get to prepare the hair for those hot summer days at the beach, and prevent it from being affected by moisture in the atmosphere. Hydrated hair equals frizz-free hair.

HOW CAN THIS HAIR TOOL IMPROVE THE LIFE OF BLONDE HAIR? Bleached hair goes through an extreme chemical process, which increases porosity and disrupts cuticles. Inevitably this affects moisture levels leaving hair feeling dry, damaged and rough. Inverse replaces and locks in lost moisture, strengthening the fiber and closing the cuticle. This creates shiny, strong, tangle-free, beautiful-looking hair.

“My hair has never felt or looked so good” and “I can’t believe the difference.”

BEST TIP ON INVERSE? We have plenty of tips, tricks and testimonies online at www.inversehair.com. Available exclusively at Combined Salon Supplies nationwide.

The ultimate tip Use it on wet hair five plus times in the first two weeks to immerse the hair with locked in moisture. Once you’ve had Inversed hair, you don’t want your old hair back.

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock & supplied

I

t’s not every day you find a hair tool that is quite literally life-changing. For controlling frizz, defining curl and hydrating unruly hair Roe believes these frozen plates are a summer essential.

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FASHION FOR A CURE

CHRISTCHURCH - 22 SEP WELLINGTON - 27 OCT QUEENSTOWN - 17 NOV

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Hair | MICHAEL BEEL

By LOREAL ID ARTISTIC TEAM LEAD BY MICHAEL BEEL

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Headway | PROMOTION

PHOTOGRAPHER: Nikita Brown STYLIST: Sopheak Seng Models provided by KBM MAKEUP: Courtney Taylor HAIR: Loreal ID Artistic Team lead by Michael Beel PRODUCTS: Loreal Professional RETOUCHING: Pearl

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Hair | MICHAEL BEEL

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1

Joic o

NZ Weddings Magazine A standout show, and not only for the blazing red Trish Peng wedding gown that broke the record for the longest train on the catwalk but for the romantic edge Joico hair director Liesa Welch, gave the humble ponytail. The NZ Weddings Magazine show at NZFW included braids, waves and leather accessories, to complement the luminous skin created by Jane Iredale. The product of choice Joico Hair Shake ensured the result had plenty of texture. “The brief included braids but with a finish that was not too perfect. We wanted to create a halo effect on the model’s hair when they came out onto the catwalk.” After back-combing, using a wide-tooth comb, the team wrapped the ponytail with a leather strap, finishing the look with Flip Turn and Dust Powder for extra texture on the fly-aways.

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2

Profe e g

n ssio al

Fud

Hair | NZFW

Carena West Swimwear

Carena West’s Resort collection was made even more covetable by a generous coat of ST Tropez tan, and the hair creations by Dharma’s leader Sara Allsop and Michael Beel from Bouy Salon & Spa in Wellington. “The brief stated a simple look with wet texture, which we achieved with the Fudge One Shot, sprayed into damp hair. And then to finish, we added Think Big Texture Spray to give hold, especially around the hairline. So the result slicked back, but with a gritty texture,” says Allsop.

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Headway | PROMOTION

boutique brands

3 Exhibit

A collaborative show, to mark the end of NZFW, Exhibit was the work of five talented salons and their team of gifted stylists. The show set out to encourage creativity with hair, and teams from Ryder, Three Hairdressing, Toni & Guy, Fabrik Hair and Hamilton Brooks did not disappoint. The final salon, Ryder showcased a ‘punk inspired’ collection the concept of staffer Nicholas Macaulay and owner Greg Murrell who stated, “That era is very attractive to us as hairdressers because it was an experimental time, with more individual looks.” From drag queens and street performers the costumes courtesy of WORLD made for a spectacular finale that compleated a full-on week of fashion.

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Hair | NZFW

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Make a difference to your salon savings and the environment with new Bio Towels

W

ith 65% of consumers stating that they feel a responsibility to purchase products that are good for the environment and society, so too are they trending towards salons and spas that embrace this vision of environmental responsibility. Choosing products that are sustainable and eco-friendly can be beneficial in more ways than one; the savings to your salon for a start. This is why the luxurious Bio Towel is on our list as one of the best new products.

Bio Towels are hygienic and germ-free

Bio Towels are 100% natural

• BIO Towels can save your salon up to 40% off laundry costs

Bio Towels are made from 100% bamboo or sustainable wood fibre which are some of the most renewable plant resources available. Wood Fibre is grown without pesticides, herbicide or irrigation making it completely sustainable. Wood Fibre is a grass that grows back so quickly after being cut down that people can actually watch it grow! Pure wood fibre is structurally similar to cotton being luxurious, soft and smooth.

• Massive power savings on washing & drying

Bio Towels are biodegradable Due to their natural composition these towels will naturally decompose. Earth friendly, Bio Towels can be composted and will completely disintegrate into the soil, making them completely eco-friendly.

Bio Towels offer clients a hygienic clean, fresh and sanitised towel. This eliminates the risk of cross infection, giving you and your clients’ peace of mind, unlike cotton towels which are susceptible to bacteria build-up and an unpleasant odour.

With Bio Towels, the savings start immediately…

• No more wastage of water on washing • No more laundry chemicals needed • No more expensive towel replacements • Staff time can be spent more productively • Plastic-free, non-toxic • Space-saving (reduce your storage problem) • Various sizes and colours available

You can start reducing your salon’s carbon footprint today by calling PHB to view the full Bio Towel range

Available exclusively from Professional Hair Brands p: (+64) 7 847 8350 | e: sales@phb.net.nz Follow us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/phb.net.nz


Hair | Q & A

Hairdressing guru

Tabatha Coffey

Business guru Tabatha Coffey shares her seven pillars to success with Trudi Brewer.

T

abatha Coffey is one stylist you would not want to mess with. Opinionated and sharptongued, as the star of her TV series Tabatha Takes Over, we found a warm and caring stylist that lives and breathes the craft of hairdressing. Tabitha Coffey is not shy when suggesting how a struggling salon can whip both managers and staff into shape, or how a stylist needs to make staff education a priority, and how each client that walks through the door could be your last. After a session with this entrepreneur at the recent Hair Expo in Melbourne, Brewer reveals her smart advice on profit, customer service and social media - along with her seven pillars to success.

WHAT ARE YOU MOST EXCITED ABOUT WHEN IT COMES TO THE FUTURE OF HAIRDRESSING? Everything! I have been in this industry for 34 years, and I’m as excited to attend a hair show now as I was as a teenager. There’s always new technology, and the industry is always evolving. I am proud to say I’m a hairdresser and someone who works in such a creative and fast paced industry.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE HAIR LOOK RIGHT NOW? I love the hair that came out of the winter/fall shows. Hair with volume, that’s dishevelled, glamorous, and feminine looking, think wild child.

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied

what are your seven pillars to success? Being aware of what the 1. C u st o m er ser v i c e it’s customer is experiencing and ensuring

great.

ation is the key to growing and 2. Ed uc at i on - Educ . -date changing and staying up-to

doesn’t stop at the salon, give 3 . R et ail i n g - Business clients at-home care and attention.

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MILAN, ITALY

When people don’t want to change and are paralysed by fear. To survive as a business, you need to be open to evolving and changing.

PARIS, FRANCE

WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST FRUSTRATION, OR MISTAKE YOU SEE THE MOST IN SALONS YOU WORK WITH?

Customised services add 4. Che mic al ser vi ces another arm to your business menu.

a brand that targets the 5. Brand ing - Create .

right

clients, the clients you want in your salon

is as important as any other 6. Social media - It marketing activity.

Clients need to keep coming 7. Rep ea t bu sin ess single client requires Every back, to support a successful business. good as your last client as only e You’r ce. the same level of servi as the first. that last impression is always as important

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Business | SUCCESS

Hiring time?

Are you ready to bring someone new into your business? Whether it’s your first employee or your 100th, here's how to hire the right way. What makes you think you need to employ someone? Are you flat out working IN your business and not spending enough time ON your business? If you’re filled to the brim with clients all week, then it’s time to review your strategy. Knowing when it’s time to hire is the first step in building a solid team.

can’t get a late night or Saturday appointment next week, or longer, it’s a good indicator that you might start to look for someone new.

Servicing clients

Employing a new stylist is a sure way to increase revenue for your business. You can’t book clients you if you don’t have the available time. Think about what happens if you add another 40 hours a week of saleable time. How would that impact your bottom line? It’s a good way to evaluate how your business is doing. Check your current availability in your appointment book. How full are you or your existing team already? Are you turning clients away? Do a quick productivity measure to see how many appointment spaces you have on average over the last 4 weeks. Of your available and sellable time, how much of it was full with appointments?

It’s time to review your customer service care levels. Are you struggling with your ability to provide a consistent level of service and care for your visiting clients? If the level of service is dropping during a client visit, not only are you compromising their experience, you’re running the risk of losing them as a client altogether. If clients are backing up at reception or you’re keeping them waiting well over their appointment time, it’s a clear indication you’d benefit someone in a customer care or supporting role. There are heaps of behind-the-scenes stuff that your business depends on: laundry and housekeeping, shampooing, taking payments, rebooking clients, answering phones etc. Having someone else to take care of the little – but vital – details can help you stay on time, provide seamless customer service while not losing your sanity or your clients.

Here are two ways to check your productivity:

Growing your business

• Check your business dashboard or appointment book to see how much time you have available. If you have less than 20% availability, it’s a good indicator that someone new on your team would help to increase productivity and open up appointment spaces for clients you’re currently turning away. • Check your late nights and Saturdays and see how many weeks you’re booked up in advance. If clients call into your business and

Check your own daily and weekly activity, working schedule and sanity. If you’re staying up late at night to pay the bills or pay the wages or plan next month’s marketing activities, #sanitycheck… is that the best use of your time? Are you flat out working IN your business with clients and not spending enough time ON your business? If you’re filled to the brim with clients all week then it’s time to consider employing someone to simply give you a break.

Booking clients

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“Timely gives us the latest technology to take our business forward.” KARL & DANELLE, Klone Hair

Just because you had to do it all yourself when you started your business doesn’t mean you have to forever! What do you love to spend your time on when working in and on your business? Do you love looking after your clients and making them feel great, and hate the need to do boring admin? Or are you motivated by coming up with plans to grow your business and develop your client base? If you’d rather be loving your clients than doing your admin, outsource your accounts or wages/HR. You might even have someone on your team who wants to evolve into another role. Delegate.

By the books

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock

Don’t panic about how you’ll pay the new wages or outsourcing fees too quickly. Yes, hiring a new person is a risk. But there’s only so much work you (and your staff) can do before you’ll stop seeing any increase in productivity. The sanity you’ll gain will increase sales in the long run. It doesn’t matter how you look at it – if it’s time to hire, it’s time.

"I help Stylists & Salon owners with Social Media Strategies, access to the Latest Technology and How to Work Smarter, Not Harder in your Salon Business." - Larissa Macleman - Timely Salon Software Streamline your appointments with Timely Salon Software. For more information go to www.gettimely.com

Visit gettimely.com to get started with a 30-day free trial. Use the promo code HEADWAY16 to get 20% off your first 6 months.


Business | SUCCESS

COMPARING YOUR BUSINESS TO COMPETITORS

Each business needs healthy competition - but how do you stay on track. Tom Murphy CEO of Kitomba shares his expert adivce.

A

s a business owner, it’s important to have your fingers firmly on the pulse of your own business, and what’s going on around you, especially in such a competitive industry. Keeping an eye on your competition can help you make informed decisions, and you can learn from them on what works and what doesn’t. But don’t fall into the trap of worrying about every little step they take - instead take a considered approach. Of course, you do need to create a market space for your brand an identity that drives everything you do. Every salon should have an area that sets it apart from the competition. That’s your 'unique selling proposition' (USP). We’ve been lucky to interview many amazing New Zealand salons about their USP. Here is some sound advice. Strengths, weaknesses and trends. Write them down. What are your competitors’ strengths and weaknesses? What trends do you see in the market when you consider your competitors as a group? What opportunities and threats do these trends present to you? For example given the trends, what are you most excited about

pursuing? Do you have a new package that will set you apart from the competition? What are you most worried about – how could your competitors derail your plans? Ideally, your competitive analysis should give you hard-hitting insights into your overall marketing strategy, such as: • What makes your brand unique • Which types of customers are you targeting (young, old, family, price conscious, wealthy, location driven) • Where and how to advertise and promote your business • Which services or packages to emphasise.

ASK YOUR CLIENTS When it comes to identifying sources of information about your competition, don't skip over the obvious ones - like your customers. "Speaking to customers is one of the best (and cheapest) ways of gathering real information on competitors," says Arthur Weiss, a specialist in competitive intelligence. "Whenever you win a new customer, find out who they used before, and why they switched

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to you (the reason they were dissatisfied with their previous supplier). Do the same when you lose a customer - identify what they preferred about your competitor. If you gather enough of these stories, you'll get a very clear idea of what your competitors are offering that customers view as preferable. You can then adjust your offering to beat that of the competitor."

INDUSTRY EXPERTS Our industry has some experts. Some of them advertise their services as a business coach or advisor; others fly a little under the radar. Ask your friends and contacts who they know and recommend. Before you start asking, think about what you are looking for – it’ll make it so much easier to find it. Zing Business Coaching, Frog Coaching, Shock Consult and Bamboo Consulting all have great reputations.

ATTEND INDUSTRY EVENTS Attending industry trade shows and conferences as well as joining industry associations can be a great way to learn. Hair Expo continues to be an excellent opportunity to pick up on Industry trends. Another great event is the annual Kitomba NZARH Business Awards which highlight the very top performers and success stories in our industry. Attending this event allows you to mix with and form relationships with some of the best minds in our field.

PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

USE SALON SOFTWARE TO GIVE YOU UP-TO-THEMINUTE INSIGHTS Can you say with certainty how you’re faring against your competitors? Do you know what the average industry rebooking rate is? How does your client average spend compare? Using salon software, you can find all this out. This is the stuff that matters and it’s incredibly motivating to see what others are achieving - it gives you a benchmark. Kitomba Benchmark gives you a true warts-and-all account of where your business stands against the industry. Belinda Watson of Biba Boutique Salon in Auckland commented “It enables us to monitor the results that drive bottom line profitability on a daily basis, as well as benchmarking ourselves against other salons. It’s both motivating and inspiring. It’s like having a business coach with you 24/7.” So why should you benchmark your business? To be strategic in your decision making. Benchmarking allows you to move beyond making decisions based purely on popular opinion. You’ll never have to ask the question “Is it just my business?” Benchmark gives you the market intelligence you need to make the right decisions for your business, identify opportunities for growth and uncover potential threats early. Benchmark uses live data so you always know exactly where you sit against the industry and what the industry average is. Our industry is changing – the data shows it. As the economy fluctuates and client behaviour and business performance changes, so does Benchmark. Tom Murphy is the CEO at Kitomba Salon & Spa Software, New Zealand’s number one salon and spa software provider. To learn more about Kitomba, visit www.kitomba.com or call 0800 161 101.

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ONE STOP SHOP FOR PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSERS

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Headway | PROMOTION

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Gourmet tea suppliers Harney & Sons have your winter service essentials covered. Help clients relax and unwind through chilly winter salon days with a special Harney & Sons moment. Savour rich, warming flavours like ginger, licorice, cinnamon and pumpkin.

NEW Glide Flexibrush • The bristles flex and so does the brush – you won’t believe it! • State of the art brush developed by Glide • No more notz, no more pain, wet or dry it’s all the same!

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A glowing flow of pure botanical hydration. Every skin type fights a daily battle against moisture loss. Using advanced ingredients and technology which mimics the remarkable hydration process found in plants, our iconic Hydra Floral range has been created to keep all skin types moisturised, nourished and protected day and night.

Discover the innovative new additions to this number one range, focusing on anti-pollution & emotional stress to combat dehydration from morning to evening.

For details on your nearest stockist or for more information on DECLÉOR 0800 105 107 | info@decleor.co.nz www.decleor.co.nz Facebook.com/DecleorNZ


Joyce Blok Vitamin E15% The life saver for your skin this season

This antioxidant & anti-inflammatory serum renews, softens and protects damaged skin from free radicals and environmental damage. Considered to be the ultimate lipid-soluble antioxidant and free-radical scavenger, vitamin E provides an ideal antidote to protect New Zealand skin against daily encounters with high levels of environmental pollution, oxidation and year round UV exposure.

For details on becoming a Joyce Blok stockist or to find a Joyce Blok spa or salon near you, contact us on: T: 0800 105 107 • E: info@joyceblok.co.nz • www.joyceblok.co.nz facebook.com/joyceblok • @joycebloknz


PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock

Beauty

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Let your style reach new heights this Spring with the

FASHION FORWARD Collection from jane iredale

AS USED ON THE WEDDINGS SHOW AT NZ FASHION WEEK 2016

DISTRIBUTED BY PROFESSIONAL SKIN & BEAUTY LTD

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Starring our Smooth Affair® for Eyes – creamy, blendable eye shadow/primers, the ultra-precise Retractable Brow Pencil with built-in spoolie and the ultimate red showstopper Cindy PureMoist® Lipstick.


MASK MAGIC There are two new additions to the much-loved Joyce Blok range of which both are perfect for rejuvenation.

Joyce Blok Thermal Mask This self-heating mask offers an immediate awakening effect on skin. Along with a tangy fragrance, we call it a rejuvenation boost for the face. The heat opens pores, and enhances the effectiveness of active ingredients, which makes it ideal for all skin types.

Joyce Blok Anti-Ageing Peel Off Mask This mask is the perfect addition to an anti-ageing facial as an added boost for clients. Offering an immediate lifting effect and a soothing marshmallow scent, this mask is almost good enough to eat! This soft textured peel-off mask offers comfort, suppleness and a bounce back effect for mature skin.

Beauty news

By SARAH SIMPSON.

GET EXCITED

Joyce Blok Sugar Scrub This little sweetie is back! But only for a limited time. The gorgeously packaged sugar scrub gently exfoliates to invigorate the skin, leaving it beautifully radiant and silky smooth. This scrub works to improve the health of the skin with nourishing ingredients including sugar cane and almond oil hydrate in seconds. Introduce this scrub to your body this month to get skin in shape for the party season ahead.

Like Botox in a tube, the wrinkle eraser Sothys BX Wrinkle Corrector contains dermo-relaxing peptides that target expression lines that deepen as we age. The peptide complex works to relax micro-expressions, and as a hard-working hydrator, it’s in hot demand across the globe - use day and night.

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Beauty | NEWS

COLOUR ME HAPPY

PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock & supplied.

light worker

Whether you are after a tool, which will allow your skincare to sink in more effectively, or you are seeking the benefit of light therapy for your skin, the Mitty2 will become a firm favourite. This compact, hand held device merges LED light therapy with the benefits of Iontophoresis and thermal massage to deliver optimal skin moisturisation and balance. The anti-ageing red light therapy boosts skin rejuvenation and stimulates dermal collagen and elastin fibres. Combined with a hot massage function, it prepares skin for better absorption and stimulating circulation. Combat breakout and impurities with the blue light function. Its antibacterial benefits specifically target acne bacteria. The cold massage function allows for relief of swelling and inflammation all the while increasing ionic activity for added tone and elasticity.

Jane Iredale’s latest collection includes three new additions, which are all equally gorgeous. The Smooth Affair for Eyes glides seamlessly onto the lids and provides a primer as well as a wash of soft colour. Brows will look shaped and groomed thanks to the new Retractable Brow Pencil, which also houses a spoolie brush to soften colour for a natural finish. And finally the PureMoist Lipstick in Cindy, which gives lips an undeniable show stopping red glow.

POLLUTION BUSTERS

The Decléor Hydra Floral Anti-Pollution range has grown with new additions. These products focus on blocking environmental pollution, removing toxins from the skin and eliminating emotional stresses with an impressive line up of essential oils. Arriving in New Zealand this month and available from Decléor stockists. www.decleor.co.nz

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R -PU POSE I T

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Beauty | NEWS

UP Busy women everywhere will rejoice at this new launch from Priori, a mineral powder that offers a three-prong approach. This silky soft powder is buffed into skin with a kabuki brush offering skincare elements including antiinflammatory benefits, sun protection and great coverage all in one. Once on the skin this powder is a match made in heaven for those who suffer from skin sensitivity and are searching for a gentle solution.

INTRODUCING an affordable and effective device with red and blue LED light...

RED LIGHT: Promotes thermal massage with iontophoresis and skin rejuvenation, improves skins barrier function and prevents TEWL.

THE ULTIMATE INDULGENCE.

Pure Fiji treatments are up there as one of the best in the business and the Tropical Paradise Body Glow is heaven sent. Relax as coconut milk is drizzled on the skin, followed by a full body exfoliation using raw sugar cane infused in an exotic five nut oil blend. Thanks to the naturally occurring AHA’S in raw sugar, dry skin is banished, leaving it feeling softer, smoother and firmer. The treatment is finished with an generous application of lotion to help lock in the moisture and protect the skin for weeks to come. Allow for a 50-minute treatment, 60 minute booking time.

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BLUE LIGHT: Effective for breakouts, acne and bacteria, is cooling with galvanic massage.

Suppliers of medical and professional skincare

0800 33 888 3 / info@worldbeaute.co.nz facebook.com/worldbeaute / worldbeaute.co.nz 18/09/16 9:25 PM


Beauty | PROFILE

SLOW BEAUTY

In beauty circles Shel Pink is known as a lifestyle futurist. Trudi Brewer discovers her way of looking and feeling phenomenal is through the practice of 'Slow Beauty.' l Lacquer in Clar it y Nai .

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merican Shel Pink is a beauty pioneer. Not only is she the founder of SpaRitual, a line of beauty products designed to help you revel in your daily routine, Pink lives by the practice of Slow Beauty. Here’s how it works.

HOW DID YOU COME UP WITH THE PHILOSOPHY OF SLOW BEAUTY? From an early age, my mother instilled in me that health is wealth. She taught me to be aware of what I put into my body and on my body, and to make the healthiest choices. She introduced me to the spa at an early age, not for luxury but as a place to help reduce the effect stress and toxins have on our mind, body and spirit. When I went to college, I discovered meditation, yoga and later Ayurveda. My passion for wellness began at home, and I built upon what I learned and pursued my well-being interests. Eight years ago it felt to me as if everything had suddenly sped up, and it had. I found myself with multiple emails, and voicemails and the whole social media phenomena capturing my attention more and more. I had this overwhelming feeling to slow down, knowing that with the inundation of technology the opposite was happening. Things were

only going to become faster, and faster. And they have. While I was contemplating my fast life, my son's class pet Torti, the tortoise, came to stay with us for two weeks. He was exactly the medicine and inspiration I needed. It was as if Torti lived his life in a constant state of meditation. In the Zen tradition, there is something called the Satori Moment and like an epiphany the term Slow Beauty came to me, and I knew I wanted to share this concept with others. Knowing that if I felt that I needed to ground myself in moments of slow, others may feel the same way. Slow Beauty is a philosophy I've been practising for as long as I can remember. Torti was the catalyst that inspired the name of my practice.

YOU TALK ABOUT 'A COMMUNION OF SELF WITH SELF' CAN YOU EXPLAIN WHAT THAT MEANS? It's about radical self-compassion. It's a full acceptance of self. All aspects, especially the parts of self that we tend to ignore or push away. For real transformation to occur, we need to bring close the "uglier" parts of self, accept, and then let go. When we fully accept who we are, and don't try to fit into a mould, or someone else's standard of beauty that is when we become truly beautiful. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 10

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Beauty | PROFILE

WHAT ARE YOUR BEAUTY IDEALS? I believe beauty comes from within, and we need to focus on developing, and designing a strong inner life. How we feel inside is what we radiate out into the world. For me, there are no beauty standards, and I like the idea of growing young. Imagine if when we come into this world, the people around us shared stories of how we will grow young, instead of how we decay, as we grow old. How we currently age are myths we tell. That is changing now. As we become more conscious, and shift our desires from collecting possessions, to having meaningful experiences, our attitudes and values about what is beautiful also change. As we become more self-accepting and inclusive, we become more conscious. And that’s a human thing, not an age thing, or a cultural thing. It’s about consciousness, and consciousness is inclusive. Anyone can wake up to that.

AND TO WOMEN WHO ARE LOOKING FOR A QUICK FIX, WHEN IT COMES TO ANTI-AGEING? There is no such thing. Stop fighting. Don’t be caught up in the “anti” mentality. Beauty is an unfolding of your best self. It takes time, a lifetime. Accept the process.

“Makeup infused with skincare will tint and correct your complexion”.

WHAT SMALL STEP CAN EACH OF US TAKE TO ACHIEVE WHOLENESS AND HAPPINESS?

Step by step incorporates loving self-care rituals into your life. Take care of yourself. Nourish yourself with healthy food. Elevate your beauty routine to the level of rituals using clean products to nourish your skin. Surround yourself with incredible people. Invest in your friendships. When you care for yourself in meaningful ways, then you are best able to care for others and the world.

WHAT WOULD YOU SAY TO WOMEN THAT ARE SEARCHING FOR BEAUTY, AND ARE NEVER HAPPY? Stop searching. You are already perfect.

Top Tips

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied

Find a meditation practice that works for you. Studies have shown that those who meditate frequently can reverse the signs of ageing. Meditation is my favourite, and most effective beauty product. And it never runs out. Also, know thyself. Keep asking 'What is authentic to me?' We need to ask this question over and over again. In our fast paced world there are so many distractions that keep us away from our self. Slow Beauty is a philosophy of well-being that helps us remember who we are and how to best care for our self through sustainable self-care practices.

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Vitamin Shot

The best way to give ageing skin a radiant boost is to include vitamin C in your skincare routine, says Sharleen Singh.

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ou might think of loading up on vitamin C when your immune system needs a bit of a nudge during winter. But when applied to the skin all year round, it’s an effective and essential part of the anti-ageing process. We spoke to Lauren De Vries, National Training Manager for Joyce Blok Professional Skin about how this do-it-all superstar works on skin.

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Beauty | VITAMIN C

WHAT IT CAN DO FOR SKIN? Taking more vitamin-rich foods or supplements is one way to try and increase levels in the skin, but our body’s own control mechanisms tightly regulate the levels absorbed. According to De Vries, topical use of this citrus boost can do wonders for your complexion. “Some of the benefits that this vitamin showers upon skin include, neutralising free oxygen radicals (pollution), protecting against UVA and UVB damage and stimulating collagen growth. While providing an antiinflammatory effect and promoting cell renewal that gives skin a healthy radiant glow.”

HOW DOES VITAMIN C WORK IN THE SKIN? This vitamin is uniquely and almost unanimously regarded by skincare experts around the world as an anti-ageing celebrity. So what makes it so universally celebrated? “Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) plays a very important role in the skin as it neutralizes oxygen free radicals (pollutants) that cause destruction. Basically, it protects the skin from oxidative stress caused by UV exposure” explains De Vries. This important process can be explained perfectly with the help of another, fruit; the humble apple. “Think of a peeled apple and how quickly it oxidizes. When lemon juice is added to the apple it slows down the oxidative process. This is what we are trying to achieve with skin by using Vitamin C,” says De Vries.

WHY IS IT A POWERFUL ANTIOXIDANT?

WHAT SKIN PROBLEMS CAN IT CORRECT? Studies have shown that topical use of vitamin C helps with many skin issues, including premature ageing, scarring, hyperpigmentation, dull and devitalised skin, inflammation as well as congested skin. “Vitamin C is recommended for most skin types and conditions, as everyone will benefit from maintaining adequate levels”, says De Vries. Studies have also shown benefits such as the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, aiding wound healing and lessening the severity of sunburn all thanks to the topical use of this special vitamin. Just like the saying summer bodies are made in winter, so too is healthy glowing skin created during the winter months. Including a topical vitamin C serum during the cooler months can correct damaged skin, and continuing to use it during summer is a great way to protect skin from further sun damage and exposure to UV radiation. “This vitamin is a must for the warmer seasons and the perfect partner with your sunscreen, for the ultimate protection,” says De Vries.

“Vitamin C plays a very important role in the skin as it neutralizes free radicals.”

Like most antioxidants, vitamin C has been proven to preserve the skins resiliency so it takes on a firmer feeling and smoother appearance – which is something most of us, if not everyone, aspires to. It does this by donating electrons to counteract those that free radicals “steal”, allowing for the tiny breaks in collagen to be replaced – our very own fountain of youth. “This naturally powerful antioxidant offers multiple benefits for the skin, including slowing down and preventing oxidative stress caused by environmental factors, such as UV radiation” explains De Vries.

Try 1 Mono Derma C10. 2 Decleor Aroma WhiteC. 3 Joyce Blok Serum c20. 4 Sothys Cosmeceutique RX Ultra-C Dermobooster. 5 Elizabeth Arden Pro Skin Brightening Serum. 6 Priori Cellular Recovery Serum. 7 Fleur De Mer Vitamin C Serum 20%. 6 4

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IMPROVES the efficacy of the injection in

PROLONGS the efficacy of the injection in

of cases.*

of cases.*

87% DELAYS the next injection.*

: jean-baptiste guiton · filip falta · 03/16 · sothys paris, siège social et institut de beauté, 128 rue du faubourg saint-honoré, 75008 paris - siren 451 170 807 rcs paris. non contractual pictures.

KISS YOUR WRINKLES GOOD-BYE! 63%

VISIBLY smoothes expression lines

80% satisfaction.**

photos

Observational clinical test under medical dermatological control with women who have received an injection of botulinum toxin.

Exclusively in beauty institutes & spas.

AVAILABLE END OF OCTOBER 2016

sothys.co.nz BX Corrector HEADWAY.indd 1

study carried out on

30 people who had received a botulinum toxin injection 6 to 10 weeks before the application of 90 days. *overall impression among dermatologists. **self-evaluation carried out on 30 people.

bx wrinkle corrector and who had applied the product twice daily for

12/09/16 10:45 AM


The onset of spring is the ideal time to focus on skin clarity. Dr Catherine Stone reveals the best way to approach a skin-renovation plan.

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE COMMON SKIN CONCERNS WOMEN FACE WITH THE CHANGE OF SEASON? You might have noticed that your skin is drier, more sensitive and easily irritated. Moving between hot and cold temperatures (indoor heating and the outside cold) in winter reduces the naturally moisturising oils we produce on the surface of our skin, resulting in ‘trans-epidermal water loss’, where water on the skin evaporates. This results in an unhealthy, irritated skin, and a dull complexion.

WHAT IS THE ONE CHANGE EVERY WOMAN SHOULD MAKE TO THEIR SKINCARE REGIME BEFORE SPRING? A good quality vitamin A and vitamin C serum, and an appropriate sunscreen, are your bare minimum skincare essentials. With guidance from a qualified skin therapist, you might consider adding peptides, antioxidants and growth factors into your skin care regimen. Every skin is different and has different needs - if your skin is drier than normal, you might add a hydrating hyaluronic acid serum, vitamin B infused skin products or the addition of a hydrating mask once or twice a week.

WE READ ABOUT HOW IMPORTANT DAILY SPF IS IN SKIN PROTECTION FROM UV RAYS WHAT IS THE LATEST NEWS AND TRENDS WITH SUNSCREEN? Using a sunscreen that contains antioxidants can boost the skin’s ability to deal with sun damage. Vitamin C serums provide the skin with a ‘natural’ SPF of 8, but it’s still important to reflect the sun’s rays with a

quality titanium or zinc based sunscreen. I’m not a big fan of chemical sunscreens, as they absorb the UV rather than reflect them away from the skins’ surface, and may cause free-radical damage to the skin cells, which is what we’re trying to prevent.

WHAT IS YOUR ADVICE ON WHAT SPF NUMBER TO USE DAILY? The ideal SPF is 30, but SPF 15 should be a minimum. Any more than 30+ is just marketing hype. In Australia, the TGA has stopped brands marketing over a 30+ to prevent that false security of the amount of protection you will get. For example, an SPF 15 blocks 94 percent of the sun’s rays, while SPF 30 blocks 97 percent of the sun’s rays. Antioxidants in sunscreen mop up any extra sneaky free radicals created by the tiny percentage of UV rays that get through a sunscreen. Also, it is worth noting the higher the SPF the more likely it is to be a chemical sunscreen.

THERE ARE STILL A SURPRISING NUMBER OF WOMEN THAT USE SUNBEAMS TO GET A ‘BASE TAN’ BEFORE SUMMER, WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS? Sun exposure creates DNA damage, and your tan is a ‘scar’ where your body is trying to protect itself by increasing the pigment in your skin to ‘shelter’ your DNA. No matter what you may hear at tanning salons, if you keep damaging your skin with repeated sun or UV exposure, you are almost inevitably going to develop wrinkles, discolouration and brown or white spots on exposed skin at a much younger age. Not to mention the potential risk of skin cancers - none of which are pretty.

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Beauty | PROFILE

EACH MONTH THERE ARE NEW AND EXCITING TECHNOLOGIES AVAILABLE IN THE QUEST TO HOLD BACK THE AGEING PROCESS. Stone shares the latest. WHAT IS THE BEST AND MOST EFFECTIVE TREATMENT COMBINATION TO GIVE SKIN THAT FRESH-LOOKING GLOW BEFORE BARING IT ALL THIS SUMMER? The Vampire Facial Plus, which combines hydrating hyaluronic acid with your platelets and plasma (PRP) isolated from a small sample of your blood (hence the vampire name). Administered through a specialised dermal needling pen, which drives this healing and rejuvenating mixture into the skin to repair it at a cellular level. This treatment can also help reduce pore size and scarring, as well as improving the skin’s texture, thickness and ‘luminosity’ or glow.

WHAT IS A GREAT SIGNATURE TREATMENT IF YOU ARE NEEDLE-SHY? If you want a less intensive and more relaxing option, combining a bespoke medical-facial with a hydrating peel, followed by a LED light therapy session such as Omnilux, is a wonderful way to improve the glow on your skin - and your mood. The bright red light used with LED light therapy has been proven to help with the winter blues, as well as stimulating collagen and hyaluronic acid, ideal for getting your skin to glow.

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Beauty | BRONZE

S T A N D A R D When it comes to tanning, the overdone look is old news. 2016 is all about a sheer veil of luminous golden radiance, says Sarah Simpson.

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one are the days where we slather ourselves in foul-smelling lotion, which leaves us a darker shade of orange. Tans have evolved to a beautiful new level, which makes applying them a breeze, and the good news - the end result is sheer, natural and barely - there.

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Face

Powder

Many steer clear of using self-tan on their face, but there’s no need to shy away anymore – the new generation formulas promise you a hint of colour that work wonders when mixed in with your day or night cream. Those that don’t want to commit to a tan that hangs around, opt for a sweep of wash-off colour that can easily be added to your foundation or tinted moisturiser. Blend in using a kabuki brush ensuring you sweep the colour down to your neck and décolletage.

Sometimes all that’s needed to brighten up a complexion is a quick whip of bronzer in the right places. Seek out powders that offer you a deeper shade of bronze without all the sparkle. We are after believable, natural-looking tones and too much shimmer is a dead giveaway of a faux glow. Use a large powder brush to dust the find pigment onto your face and just like a tan, always ensure you continue to sweep it down your neck and chest.

“When wearing self tan, avoid wearing too much brown.”

Makeup Tip

When wearing self tan, avoid wearing too much brown, as this can give an overall muddy feel to your makeup. Instead, reach for shades of coral, pink and gold, which are summer inspired and the perfect complement to a bronzed complexion. kinFinish Powd

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PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied

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Giving your body an all-over glow has never been so simple. New sheer formulations mean mistakes are harder to make and less obvious if you do happen to slip up. Either team these lotions and sprays with your body cream or use on their own for a deeper result. Application mitts are in abundance these days meaning stained hands are a thing of the past. The magic word for tanning is ‘blend’. Buff and blend in well, and you will see believable colour that promises to stay put for up to seven days.

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Try: Jane Iredale Limited Edition Golden Shimmer (1), St Tropez Self Tan Luxe Facial Oil (2), The Bronzer Self Tan (3), St Tropez Luxe Dry Tanning Oil (4), Sothy’s Illuminating Trio Bronzer and Contour Powder (5).

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Beauty | EDIT

BE AU T Y EDI T Skin therapists, makeup artists and facialist’s rely on the very best innovation to tint, firm and perfect skin. Here are the brands that this team of professionals reach for everyday.

MEET THE PANEL

Trudi Brewer Editor Headway Magazine.

Catherine Stone Appearance medicine doctor and owner of The Face Place, Auckland

Sarah Simpson Beauty writer.

Louise Gray Louise Grey Skincare in Auckland

Ashley Scott The Facialist in Auckland

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Innovation

The pace of change when it comes to technology is rapid and effective. Products that don’t deliver on their promise, will not survive. Here are the standouts. ONE TRUTH 818 Packed with the unique TAM 818 molecule, the most powerful telomerase-inducing compound.

DERMAVIDUALS Its skin mimicking technology offers tailored results that deliver.

LIDS BY DESIGN A non-surgical correcting strip that was developed to easily and instantly lift and improve the appearance of the eyelids.

ULTRACEUTICALS B2 HYDRATING SERUM Utilising the powerful benefits of vitamin B, this serum offers exceptional anti-ageing results.

JANE IREDALE TANTASIA SELF-TANNER & BRONZER Organic colour that’s instantly visible and leaves a long-lasting natural-looking tan.

SOTHY’S INTENSIVE HYDRATION SERUM Expect a shot of intense hydration that never disappoints.

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Beauty | EDIT

Anti-Ageing All of these top performing creams, oils and lotions will transform skin of any age. Here are the stars. MEDIK8 VITAMIN C GLOW OIL Silky and fast absorbing, this dry facial oil contains the powerhouse for ageing skin vitamin C. Expect an instant youthful glow and radiant texture.

DERMALOGICA AGE SMART DYNAMIC SKIN RECOVERY SPF 50 Packed full of antioxidants and peptides as well as being hydrating, it provides excellent SPF protection.

ULTRACEUTICALS ULTRA A SKIN PERFECTING SERUM CONCENTRATE The retinol microparticles help support the skin’s production of hyaluronic acid, that dramatically improves the look of fine lines and wrinkles.

ENVIRON INTENSIVE REVIVAL MASQUE The asiatic, mandelic and lactic acid combination in this potent skin mask heals, hydrates and brightens the most uneven skin tone.

PRIORI PERFECTION FACIAL GEL It ticks all the boxes for clearing skin prone to breakout and wrinkles - for anyone serious about skin clarity - this is a must try.

JOYCE BLOK SUPER SERUM The potent hardworking peptides boost collagen and elastin in the skin, and this serum is gentle enough to use around the eye area.

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Nature inspired

The fastest growing beauty category is naturals. Both kind to skin and better for the planet. BESTOW BEAUTY OIL A powerful blend of botanical oils that repairs, strengthens and heals skin.

ECO TAN WINTER SKIN An organic gradual tanning moisturiser with absolutely no hidden nasties.

JANESCE SOLUTIONS RE-ENERGISING COMPLEX The 10 plant extracts and silk protein give a firming, balancing boost for skin over 40.

JANE IREDALE D20 HYDRATION SPRAY A facial spritz that every woman should carry in their handbag to hydrate, soothe, calm and set your mineral makeup.

DECLEOR AROMESSENCE MARJOLAINE A nourishing plant oil-like serum that once applied to skin, feels heavenly.

PURE FIJI COCONUT SUGAR SCRUB Five nut oils and sugar cane combined, whisk away dry, dead skin from the body to leave it feeling silky smooth.

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Beauty | EDIT

Colour

More and more salons and spas offer makeup to finish a treatment service and perfect the skin. Here are the dream brands. GLO MINERAL SHIMMER BRICK Not only does this powder give cheeks a hint of cheerful colour, it can be buffed over lids as an eye shimmer as well.

KAREN MURELL LIPSTICK Good enough to eat, these super natural lipsticks come in the most amazing on-trend shades. Pictured here Scarlet Blaze.

ULTRACEUTICALS ULTRA UV PROTECTIVE DAILY A moisturiser, sheer tint and sunscreen, ideal for anyone looking to streamline their beauty routine.

SOTHY’S HUILE DE GLOSS The shea butter and vegetable oil offer a brilliant sheen, and it smells just like fresh raspberries - we are in love.

OSMOSIS LIP GLAZE Beautiful colour payoff, long-lasting and just the right amount of nourishing shine.

JANE IREDALE AMAZING BASE FOUNDATION Nothing comes close to this mineral powder for giving skin colour and SPF20 protection - it’s magic.

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Beauty | EDIT

Most brands have a star product that once you try it you’re hooked. Here’s a few of our must-haves. ASPAR ROSE HYDRATING FACIAL HYDROSOL Alcohol-free, this facial spritz can be used any time of the day beneath or over makeup to revitalise skin.

THE BROW GAL SKINNY PENCIL This pencil will mimic the look of real hair, and it will not budge in water or when sweating. There are six shades with a handy sharpener hidden in the lid.

ENVIRON AVST VITAMIN A, C & E FACE & BODY OIL A summer essential after a day outdoors, slather your skin with this fine oil that is brimming with essential vitamins.

LATISSE Developed as a treatment for glaucoma, Latisse is a tried and true lash rejuvenator that results in thicker, fuller lashes within weeks.

JANE IREDALE QUAD BRONZER The mica minerals in this bronzer can be buffed anywhere you want the skin to glow. It comes in three shades, Moonglow, Rose Dawn, and Sunbeam.

ASPECT GOLD CLEANSING MICELLAR WATER Removes makeup like a dream. And for sensitive skin it soothes and calms.

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock & supplied

Can’t Live Without

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Beauty | NAILS

MEDIUM AND ALMOND This shape is perfect for those who crave length and like to wear a lighter shade of polish. The most universally flattering look for nails, it creates the illusion of a longer nail bed. Any nail lacquer from bright or pale suits this shape but steer clear of wearing darker shades with this longer look.

LONG AND ROUND For those who don’t mind the maintenance that comes with longer nails, this ultra-feminine look is a winner. Choose to have a rounded finish when having this length as it lengthens fingers. And choose shades on the lighter side of the colour spectrum.

The

business of nails

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This season there is a another slew of beautiful nail shades to covet, not to mention a shape to suit everyone. Sarah Simpson shares the latest.

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SHORT AND SQUOVAL Hugging close to the tip of your finger, this shape is great for people on the go. Best suited to those who have elegant long fingers and a long nail bed. This

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Try 1 OPI GelColor in What's the Double Peach. 2 OPI GelColor in I'm Getting a TanGerine.

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hile the list of shapes for nails seems to grow by the day, our favourites fall into three categories.

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square shape with rounded off edges is on-trend and flattering with any colour polish. If you’re a fan of darker polishes, this is the shape for you. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 26

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Beauty | NAILS

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THE SHADE GAME This season sees a kaleidoscope of colour from nudes to pinks and pops of bright blue, yellow and coral. Teamed with a tan, any shades go for summer. If you fancy a nude, opt for a ballet pink or barely there beige. Bright fuchsia pink looks great on hands and toes and is a welcome pop of colour if your wardrobe contains a lot of black. Bold and brilliant corals are never far from our list of favourites for their ability to look great on any skin tone.

NAIL CARE Keep your nails looking perfect in-between salon visits with the aid of these essentials:

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CUTICLE OIL Adding a couple of drops of oil to your nails each night before bed is the perfect way to keep your manicure looking its best. The moisture and nourishment it provides your cuticle area also helps the colour from peeling off.

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HAND CREAM Well moisturised hands are the perfect accessory to polished nails. Keep some on hand to ensure your hands are always protected.

p Tip o T if you keep one in the car, make sure it contains a sunscreen.

Try 1 SpaRitual Gold

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Flexible Color in Balanced. 2 OPI GelColor in Towel Me About It. 3 OPI GelColor in Sailing & Nail-Ing big pink. 4 OPI GelColor in Flip Flops & Crop Tops. 5 OPI GelColor in Big Apple Red.

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied

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Business | SPA RETREAT

Aurora Spa at Palazzo Versace The sprawling iconic Palazzo Versace Hotel brings the pristine surf beaches of Main Beach directly to your door step. Sharleen Singh takes you to this Italian oasis.

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t’s no surprise that such an incredible setting would be home to the tranquil and awardwinning Aurora Spa. Created by Lyndall Mitchell, Aurora Spas are renowned for their range of high performance, award-winning treatments utilising their own botanically active product range, designed to help

clients relax and unwind. This urban retreat opened their doors just over four years ago and have been delivering unique spa treatments to both local and international guests ever since. We spoke to Lauren Boyd, General Manager at Aurora Spa at Palazzo Versace about what makes this spa so exceptional. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 28

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SIGNATURE TREATMENT Aurora Spa has created a signature treatment exclusive to Palazzo Versace; the Signature Allawah treatment. The name Allawah is Aboriginal in origin, and means ‘to rest’. This unique four-handed, deeply relaxing total body treatment is the first of its kind in Australia. Aromatic body oils are applied by two therapists for a synchronised, soothing four-handed back, neck and shoulder massage, followed by a radiance-boosting facial that includes a cleanse, tone and masque. As the masque nourishes and hydrates the skin, a soothing abdominal massage along with a foot exfoliation and leg massage is performed to boost circulation. The treatment is complete with a deeply relaxing arm massage synchronised with a rebalancing scalp massage. This unforgettable 60 minute treatment is exclusive to Aurora Spa at Palazzo Versace. “One of the highlights of working in such a unique property is being able to create one of a kind, memorable experiences that our guests will enjoy and benefit from. The Signature Allawah treatment is certainly one of those ‘must have’ experiences when visiting the Gold Coast” says Boyd. 29 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

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Business | SPA RETREAT

ONE-OF-A-KIND? Boasting a stunning array of treatment rooms and a beautiful Grecian-style heated pool that greets you as you walk in, it’s not hard to see why Aurora Spa is on the “must-visit” list of any avid spa-goer. “The unique combination of our philosophy and the environment in which we call home; the glamour and beauty of Palazzo Versace”, says Boyd, is what makes this spa one-of-a-kind. Boyd also mentions that “our commitment and passion to deliver every spa experience with care, dedication and results makes this a very special haven to relax and unwind”.

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PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

Business | SPA RETREAT

PURE BLISS “We invite all guests to arrive early to enjoy our relaxation plunge pool, steam room and sauna. Each Aurora Spa has its own unique signature spa treatment created to deliver the ultimate spa experience for you. At Palazzo Versace, this is of course the Signature Allawah,” says Boyd. Guests are recommended to complete their spa experience with a selection from Aurora Spa’s very own Spa Cuisine menu, which offers a range of produce that is delicious as well as natural, while enjoying the tranquillity of their candlelit spa lounge; pure bliss.

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FROM OUR SPA TO YOUR HOME This collection of botanically active products have been developed in-spa with care and expertise by therapists at award-winning Aurora Spas around Australia. We encourage you to recreate your own spa ritual at home and relax and unwind with ASPAR. For details on becoming a stockist or for more information on the ASPAR range contact us on 0800 105 107 or email info@selfcaregroup.co.nz


Business | ANNE

COUNTDOWN TO CHRISTMAS This spring Anne O’Brien encourages you to get your spa ready for the Christmas season and start planning, implementing and focusing on exactly what it is you want from Santa this year…

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riving into work this morning my favourite breakfast hosts announced that Auckland had already hit 15 percent Christmas penetration. Two reactions, the first, it’s spring! The second, how on earth is this measured? By late September concept stores will have already been open for two weeks, which will mean this percentage will be even higher. I guess I’m also wondering – will we be ready for it? I am a massive Christmas fan. Michael Bublé rocks at this time of year and the fact that his name is similar to bauble just makes me even happier. Each year I change my mind regularly as to what will be our Christmas theme and start talking about it as early as May. If you’re a Grinch then stay away is all I can say. The reality is that for most of us in the beauty industry we actually achieve the same turn over in the 10 days leading up till Christmas that we usually do in 24 days. It’s a busy and stressful time so make sure you are all over it this year by putting in a strategy to maximise your sales and have a successful season. Below are three points to give you a bit of a head start…

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Begin pre-booking now. It’s easy. If you normally see your VIP on the 16th December each year then you need to work backwards and ensure this day is secured as well as the four week appointments leading up to it and afterwards as well. For this particular example 23rd September, 21st October, 18th November, 16th December and 13th January 2017 should be locked in already. Get the picture? You will feel much more relaxed if this side of the business is all organised ahead of time. It will also give you visibility into whether you need to bring some temporary staff in to assist. No last minute disappointments for your clients or you – jolly good.

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Future proof your business with a choice of Christmas gift vouchers that are COMPLETELY irresistible, extraordinary and extravagant. ‘Tis the season of buying, so make sure you have worked out what combination of treatments is the most beneficial for your clients AND your business. Remember the beautiful ribbon, box and free candle have got to be considered when calculating your cost of goods. You show me one receptionist who doesn’t go mad with the ribbon during Christmas week and I’ll play you the Rowan Atkinson scene in ‘Love Actually’ – it’s so funny because it’s true.

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Lastly, give back. Not a normal Christmas tip, when selling is such a focus for us at this time of year but maybe think about giving something back to your local community. Choose an organisation that has some significance for you and your team and look at different ways you could help them out. You don’t even have to make it public knowledge but with you and your spa thinking outside the square this year you’ll find the Christmas spirit will be even stronger. Santa will definitely be ticking you off the nice, not naughty, list as well! Enjoy…

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock

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Slow Beauty for a Fast World. ®

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Business | PROMOTION

A journey beneath the skin Today, clients seeking professional skin care, are more knowledgeable and have higher expectations of skin treatments and care products. Clients demand result, orientated treatments and skin care plans and expect results to be documented and communicated.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Daylight True UV Woods Cross polarized Parallel-Polarized (unique to the Observ® Skin Diagnostic Device)

Skin diagnostic devices are of importance for skin care professionals who are serious about providing corrective skin care practices in their salons, spas and clinics. One cannot measure progress without knowing the starting point. As practising beauty and skin therapists, we understand comprehensive Advanced Skin Analysis, including the use of diagnostic equipment, is a professional must. Clients are expecting education and evidence-based results. The use of diagnostic equipment sets a professional standard and understanding that results are the aim and that they expect to fulfil their part of the treatment plan. While diagnostic equipment has become much more affordable, and available to the beauty therapy and spa industry, for some it still needs to be budgeted for. No documentation is, however, not acceptable. Today you all have the capability to take base line clinical

photos in your pockets, with a smart phone, the minimum requirement and if nothing else you should at least be documenting with that. A simple ruler is a fantastic tool to measure anomalies such as solar lentigines, and you can also document what you see on a simple piece of paper, even with advanced technology available. Most importantly, learn what this means for your business in the future.

WHAT IS THE VALUE OF SKIN ANALYSIS AND TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCEMENTS FROM A CLIENT’S POINT OF VIEW? AND WHAT ARE THE LONG-TERM BENEFITS OF USING SUCH TECHNOLOGY? Advanced Skin Analysis allows therapists to evaluate skin from the epidermal and dermal junction upwards and to provide you as a therapist the proof, via clinical photos, of potential concerns before they become visible on the skin’s surface. In the long term, this means that the client can choose to use products or undergo treatments in clinic that prevent these concerns becoming reality. This will help you maintain and improve the condition of your skin for years to come. Why waste time and money on products and treatments that will not fix your skin? The clinical visuals allow you to see not just what is on the visible surface of their skin, but what lies beneath the surface. Using UV and cross-polarized light, this technology can reveal the colour, tone, texture, secretions and sun damage on your clients’ skin. We all are aware of the essential benefits of a thorough one-hour skin consultation. Imagine the information you will have at your fingertips if you combine the consultation with the data gleaned from the latest technology.

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock

S

ince the invention of the original Wood’s lamp by Robert William Wood in 1903, skin diagnosis based upon the behaviour of skin, has been well accepted in dermatology for almost 105 years but has barely changed. The slightly surreal glowing appearance in his photographs was labelled the “Wood Effect”. New technology has developed, which brings this “Wood Effect” and Woods Lamp up to date with mobile technology, such as smart phones and tablets by skin care practitioners. The latest technology today has five light modes available for skin diagnosis in the modern world of skin fluorescence:

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ADVANCED SKIN ANALYSIS WILL DETERMINE THE CLIENTS: • • • • • • •

Visual diagnosis Client’s work/play lifestyle General health and wellbeing Medical conditions/medicines Possible allergies Vitamin supplements Current home care and beauty therapy treatments • Home care and beauty therapy treatment history

DURING AN ADVANCED SKIN ANALYSIS APPOINTMENT THE DERMAL/BEAUTY THERAPIST: • Will gather data and photograph the most useful aspects of the epidermis: melanin, extra vascular matting, oxidative stress, skin texture and sebum (lipid) levels. • Will gather data about the client’s genetic history, nutrition & lifestyle, medical, and previous beauty therapy treatment history. • Will photo-document the client’s current skin situation using fluorescence and polarised diagnostic imaging equipment - including a UV photo documentation of sub-surface

skin conditions. This data will allow the therapist to accurately measure the clients’ progression and results throughout the ensuing in -salon programmes. Will establish the cause of the client’s skin concern via data gathered in their consultation, and then relate the cause to the cells and systems that have been affected. Will establish the basic majority skin type and present the client with the home care protocols necessary to maintain healthy skin. Will establish the client’s sun sensitivity. This will allow us to understand the skins’ susceptibility to pigmentation, and develop guidelines for protecting the skin. Will prescribe a three-month treatment programme to improve the clients’ skin.

By combining these latest diagnostic devices data and your consultative comprehensive evaluation report, you will develop a customised skin health program based on this information. It will include a home skin care regimen, Medispa treatments with nutritional and lifestyle choices best suited to the skin’s particular needs.

AT OBSERV WE WERE SO EXCITED TO ANNOUNCE THAT DERMASCOPE USA INDUSTRY READERS CHOSE – OBSERV. AS THE OFFICIAL ‘WINNER OF THE BEST OF THE BEST DIAGNOSTIC TOOL IN 2016’. And if your equipment is “The Best of the Best” your clients will happily provide a testimonial to the fact. Enjoy this testimonial from Robyn McAlpine of www.lasereffect.com.au “I have been using the OBSERV 520 in my skin therapy clinic for coming up to two years and can no longer remember what our skin consultations were like prior to this. It has become an invaluable tool in educating our clients about their skin. Not only does it give us as therapists an insight into underlying skin conditions and allow us to read deeper into our client’s skin, but it also provides a visual for our clients helping them to see what we see. A client who is armed with the knowledge of where their skin is heading is a client who can make an informed decision about their skin journey. My team are exceptional skin therapists, and the OBSERV 520 gives them an even greater understanding of our client’s needs. Detailed and well recorded before and after images help to keep us accountable and make sure that we are constantly delivering a high level of skin care. Progress cannot be denied when you have such consistent images from treatment to treatment.” Do you want the ‘Best of the Best’ skin diagnostic device? Email us now for more details at: enquiries@observ.co.nz

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+64 274 735 914 observ.co.nz enquiries@observ.co.nz 18/09/16 10:10 PM


5

Beauty | Q & A

MINUTES WITH...

International makeup artist Natalie Soto-Carlisle.

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rom the set of the TV series America’s Next Top Model to working backstage at New York and L.A. fashion weeks, makeup artist and global educator for Jane Iredale, Natalie Soto-Carlisle is in high demand. Trudi Brewer caught up with her on her recent trip to Auckland to find out what’s trending with mineral makeup.

WHAT IS THE TREND WHEN IT COMES TO THE FINISH ON SKIN RIGHT NOW? Skin is moving away from matte full coverage to glowing sheer-to-medium coverage. The goal for skin is to appear healthy and youthful.

WHAT NEW TECHNIQUES ON APPLYING FOUNDATION AND POWDER ARE YOU MOST EXCITED ABOUT THIS SEASON? Since this season is all about glowing skin, I’m excited to go back to using BB creams and tinted moisturizer, applied with a wet latex-free sponge to gain an airbrush finish to skin. With powder, less is more. Wear it on the t-zone only for touch-ups throughout the day.

BEAUTY COMPANIES LAUNCH COLOUR STORIES GLOBALLY THESE DAYS. WHAT TRENDS ARE YOU MOST EXCITED ABOUT THIS SEASON?

ARE YOU ARE MATTE OR GLOSS GIRL, WHAT’S TRENDING? I’m a matte girl. And we are seeing lots of matte and liquid lipstick looks on this season’s runways. However, matte lips should never look dry, adding a lip balm underneath a lip stain first is a must.

WHAT MAKEUP LOOK CAN EVERY WOMAN MASTER ? A natural makeup to wear every day. Start with hydrated skin, follow with your foundation of choice, a bit of matte blush, a touch of brow gel, mascara, and then a swipe of that red lipstick.

“Every woman can master a natural makeup look for everyday.”

WHAT IS YOUR BEST BEAUTY TIP? I have two. It is crucial to understand the difference between colour correcting and concealing. Using the wrong shade of concealer can emphasise the appearance of under eye darkness or hyperpigmentation. Always match your shade perfectly. And, be mindful when following makeup trends, make sure you adjust them to suit your face shape and skin tone. Jane Iredale Liquid Mineral Foundation, So Bronze Powder and PureMoist Lipstick in Cindy.

A classic red lipstick look is making a comeback worldwide. It’s a trend that transcends any season. Some women prefer to wear this trend as a soft stain, while others prefer a powerful, bold red look. Both looks can be achieved with one single red lipstick, depending on your preference.

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Beauty | LYNDALL MITCHELL

Spring Essentials

Spring is the perfect season to transform your spa. ASPAR founder and owner Lyndall Mitchell shows us how.

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What is the one change every spa should make with the arrival of spring? Spring is a great time to shift the energy of the spa, practising an energy clearing ritual is a great place to start. If you have never done one of these before you can buy a sage stick from your local health food shop and it will give you all the directions. The sage sticks help to purify a space.

What are your favourite springinspired essential oils? I love to be inspired by seasonal flowers and produce. Think about the flowers that are in season during spring and be inspired by the rhythm of nature. For me some of my favourite spring oils are: Sweet Orange, Lemon, Lime, and Geranium & White Grapefruit. Some blends to play with this spring are:

1 2

BLEND 1 2 drops Bergamot Essential Oil 4 drops Lavender Essential Oil 14 drops Mandarin Essential Oil

BLEND 2 5 drops Manuka Essential Oil 5 drops Petitgrain Essential Oil 1 drop Peppermint Essential Oil 9 drops Orange Essential Oil HEADWAY.NET.NZ 38

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Beauty | LYNDALL MITCHELL

What effect do these spring-inspired oils have on staff and clients? Just like eating seasonal produce that make us feel healthy and balanced so too do essential oils. By using oils that are in season they have a great natural fit with our environment and they can help us to transition into the season more harmoniously.

What treatments help with getting your skin ready for summer? Spring is all about shedding the dead skin cells and buffing the skin ready for the spring time burst of energy. It is the prime time of the year to exfoliate your skin. At Aurora Spa our signature Kitya Karnu steam treatment helps to remove the dead skin cells with our double exfoliation process, the treatment leaves your skin feeling buffed, polished and ready for breaking out of your winter hibernation.

What is your best advice on bringing that outdoor summer vibe into a spa? I like to go back to how we can help clients to hydrate. A great way to get clients in the summer mode is to simply add some lemon and mint to you client’s water jugs and offer ice herbal teas.

What is your best spring inspired beauty tip?

1

OUTSIDE

Alternate hot and cold showers, after a while it becomes more bearable and it’s a way to get your circulation pumping.

2

INSIDE

Start juicing your leafy greens and add in some cucumber to help with skin brightening and clearing.

3

MINDFUL BEAUTY

My last tip is all about reducing stress and being uber efficient before the end of the year.

What’s on our list before the end of the year?

Step 1: REVIEW It is time to review your list and ask yourself some questions: • What is essential for me to complete between now and Christmas? • What would I like to achieve before the end of the year for my health, career, finances, and relationships. • I would be so happy if I get to Christmas and I have achieved A, B and C?

Tip - If you would like some inspiration on how to cull your list then I suggest reading Essentialism by Greg McKeown. It is a great book to read if you are feeling overwhelmed with tasks.

Step 2: RE-PRIORITISE Once you have established your wish list then you need to write the time it will take next to each task. Once this is complete then you can realistically schedule the essential items on your list between now and the end of the year. This helps to reduce the feeling of stress and pressure, trying to get an entire list of projects done that was not realistic to start with. Be kind to yourself and see what you can get done in a way where you won’t sacrifice your health and wellbeing.

Step 3: COMMIT Once you have your list allocated then it is about the commitment to say no to the distractions and stay on task until the end of the year. Your self-regulation is at its peak in the morning so schedule any of the difficult tasks early in the day. This is a task focussed approach to have you relaxing over the New Year with a sense of achievement and ultimately a weight off your shoulders! Enjoy the process.

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied

With spring upon us, now is a great time to review our ‘to do lists’ of what we would like to get done before the end of the year. We have 12 weeks between now and Christmas and in order to have the essential items on your list ticked off now is a great time to review, reflect and re-prioritise. Here are our 2 easy steps to success:

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Beauty | NUTRITION

LIQUID

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f food is the fuel for our bodies, then a healthy smoothie each day must be the ultimate energy boost. Each recipe has healthy ingredients that will work together to reinvigorate you from the inside out. And the best news, creating one of these healthy masterpieces takes less than a minute - add all of the ingredients to a blender, whizz away, add as much water as needed and enjoy!

When it comes to internal health, you are what you eat. Nutritionist Liz Lamb believes starting the day with a smoothie will help get your body in peak condition before summer.

Healthy hair and nourishing nail smoothie 1 banana ½ cup frozen berries ¼ cup crushed walnuts ½ cup of milk (or almond and coconut milk)

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock

Walnuts are packed full of the zinc that encourages healthy hair growth as well as omega-3 fatty acids to nourish your hair follicles. Berries contain vitamin C, which is important in collagen production. Collagen makes up a large part of our skin, hair and nails and vitamin C activates the cellular builder, which creates the collagen structure. All supported by the silica in Bananas, and protein from milk, the building blocks of new hair growth.

Detox smoothie 1 cup coconut water or water 1 cup frozen berry of choice 1 small/medium chopped fresh beetroot ½ medium avocado 1 lemon juiced 4 large ice cubes Beetroot is the star of the show here. It contains betalains that not only give beetroot its red colour, but boost the function of your detoxification organ – your liver. It also contains pectin, which is a soluble fibre that supports your digestive system. Avocado is a source of healthy fats and antioxidants, which help fight against damaging free radicals in the body. Berries are also a great source of antioxidants. Lemon is an alkaliser that helps your body restore its PH balance. And finally coconut water contains high levels of potassium that work with sodium to balance the salt levels in your body and keep you well hydrated.

Energising Smoothie 1 large handful of baby spinach or baby kale 2 cups of pineapple 1 cups of ice 1 tablespoon chia seeds Pineapple is packed full of manganese and thiamin, ideal for energy production and packed with antioxidants that help fight those damaging free radicals. Spinach or Kale, both dark leafy greens, are packed with folate and iron, and are needed to keep your red blood cells healthy and pumping oxygen (and energy) around your body. The chia seeds offer a complete source of fibre to balance your blood sugar levels, aid digestion and keep you feeling fuller longer. HEADWAY.NET.NZ 40

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Headway | PROMOTION

Summer

loving

1 HEADWAY.NET.NZ

Look out for the ultimate beach, face, hair and body focus in the next Headway issue! Featuring professional products & luxury treatments


Introducing the completely NEW 2 step tinting system - Refectocil Sensitive - that allows you to tint eyebrows and eyelashes in only 3 minutes with colours based on plant extracts. This breakthough innovation just released on the market allows you to offer the perfect tinting service for all clients especially those with sensitive skin and eyes who have previously had to forgo this treatment can now have beautiful accentuated eyes too! Dermatologically and Opthalmologically tested. Refectocil Sensitive is the first eyelash tint that works based on plant extracts, with yarrow, horse chestnut extract, marigold, green tea, safflower, hydrangea, Chinese Galle, St John’s Wort, walnut extract, juniper, goldenrod, nettle, blueberry, chaste berry, red wine extract. Available in 4 Colours BLACK: tints every hair in a rich, pure black and is suitable for lashes and very dark brows. DARK BROWN: tints every hair in a dark brown and is suitable for medium to dark brown hair. MEDIUM BROWN: tints light brown to dark blonde hair in a warm brown. LIGHT BROWN: tints hair in a soft brown.

8 Applications Kits contain : 1x 3.5ml Colour Gel, 1 x 3.5ml Developer Gel, 1 x Tinting stick, 1 x Tinting Brush & 16 Eye Protection Papers

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elcome to the certa inly been From the ann co-owner of d& taking out Zeala nd Schw the arzkopf Profe ssional Hair Expo, to the 30 talented finalists anno Trophy Awar un ds. Then to the gifted their Indus team try Protègè Competitio and finalist's n, we ar work in this issue also. across the Th count ry rising to star status we are deligh , fo ted to be there to follow and is facing mass s ive change, from the innov and desig n; you can read all about a freezes the 'coo frizz out of hair. To a - Prava na, vivid, glo that graces our stunn ing colou r is a cover. game chang er for client It ticks all s and sty the boxes, inspired by to client or nature, so stylist health , it's house packaging, d in biod and has a built-in chari for every purch table con ase made. With YouTu Tang a fan be sensa of this brand , his know free-hand ledge and creations can i be viewed Guy_Tang, on Insta and you can tag your #HairBestie own w s. Tang has built a comm unity of 1.4 colou rists and fans, a tribe y be part of to share and guid other throu gh the colou ring p And we can't forget beaut y, close to my heart. We are thri have Karen Murrell lipstic k grac cover for the first time. This b is on fire. With mass ive expan in spas and salons, acros s the g Women it seem s can't get enoug h power, natur al ingredient s, an In fact - this is one lipstic k that enoug h to eat. Final ly, to journey - one this issue, of change. which I have stepp a few issues ed in to take , as editor, car while the gorge some time ous Charm out to maste ain r the most motherhoo important d. You will role in he be pleased Ophelia, are to know moth bloom ing. er and So, to mark my arriva l, we have a share #head new look wayw inter, for y as well as at www.head a new digita way.net.nz. l issue Don't forget headwayma to follow us gazine and on remember, we love heari ng from

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Headway Spring 2016 - Vol.39 No.3  
Headway Spring 2016 - Vol.39 No.3  
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