Widnes Local - Sept & Oct 2012

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extensive preparation with regard to drainage and tanking. The risk of leaks is reduced – though there are no guarantees. The disadvantage is that a walk-in will take up more space than a standard shower cubicle. What are the technicalities? Wet rooms are often recommended for ground floors and basements, where the sub-floor is more likely to be solid. In a first-floor installation it’s more tricky. You may need to strengthen joists in order to bear the load of heavy stone tiles; you’ll certainly need to ensure that the floor is stable, as wooden joists that flex could create cracks in tiles or waterproofing. In all cases you need to create a suitable drainage slope, either with a ‘former’ and suitable levelling compound, or a pre-formed tray set into the floor. To accommodate waste fittings, you may need to raise the entire floor level of the room, which could mean having to re-size the

doorway. Really good tanking is vital. It may be in the form of impermeable sheeting or a trowelled-on sealant, and should be applied to the entire floor of the wet room or walk-in, the walls that are likely to become wet, and extend beyond by 50cm each side. Another option for walls is to use prefabricated water-resistant boarding. In both cases it is necessary to seal vulnerable areas (corner joints and pipework penetrations) using a special sealing strip. Then there’s your water supply. If you have low water pressure or a small tank, for example, you may need to fit a bigger tank or add a pump. Finally, ventilation. Fit a really good extractor fan, following building regulations religiously (ask advice from your local planning authority), and avoid condensation by also having some form of heating in the room, whether underfloor or radiators.

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Homes & Gardens

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