Harry Magazine Fall/Winter 2014

harry A MAGAZINE FOR MEN BY HARRY ROSEN MENSWEAR

FALL/WINTER 2014 $5.00

harry A MAGAZINE FOR MEN BY HARRY ROSEN MENSWEAR

ROCK SOLID OUR FASHION ON FOGO

FALL/WINTER 2014

Contents Fall/Winter 2014

92/

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA A half-lined jacket in an understated merlot and slate grey plaid from Ermenegildo Zegna. A blend of merino wool and cashmere, the fabric is exceptionally soft to the touch.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA jacket, $2,395, shirt, $495, and pants, $595.

A Study in Sophistication

h

Features

Videos

54 HOPE DREAMS Please find all our videos, including the following, at www.harryrosen.com/ h videos-f14 • What label suits you

Raptors GM Masai Ujiri

by Gary Butler

60 60 THINGS A GENTLEMAN NEEDS

• The proper fit of a suit • Folding a pocket square

EXECUTIVE PUBLISHER AND CEO, HARRY ROSEN INC. LARRY ROSEN

PHOTOGRAPHY, CHRIS NICHOLLS

PUBLISHER SANDRA KENNEDY EDITOR JAMES CHATTO ART DIRECTORS BOB HAMBLY BARB WOOLLEY HAMBLY & WOOLLEY INC. DESIGNERS BARB WOOLLEY AARON RINAS PRODUCER JUSTINE DUNK JEFF BRODER (ON LOCATION) PRODUCTION MANAGER SONJA KLOSS

CONTRIBUTORS TOM ARBAN GARY BUTLER REMIE GEOFFROI ANTONY HARE ANNA KOHN JACLYN LAW MARKIAN LOZOWCHUK KYLE METCALF CHRIS NICHOLLS BRIAN SANO ALEC SCOTT KARL WELLS JESSICA WONG

75 ULTIMA CANADA 92 A STUDY IN SOPHISTICATION 102

66 WORLD OF WONDERS Our buyers source the planet

by Alec Scott

• How to care for your suit

Fashion

EXECUTIVE FASHION DIRECTOR JEFF FARBSTEIN FASHION DIRECTORS PAUL E. SMITH SHANNON STEWART ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER JUDY SOLWAY PHONE 416 935 9202 EDITORIAL COORDINATORS MARIA DELOREY MEGHAN JANSSEN PUBLIC RELATIONS MANAGER TIM GALLANT PHONE 416 935 9224 HARRY ROSEN INC. 77 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1600 TORONTO, ONTARIO CANADA M5S 1M2 PHONE 416 935 9200

HAMBLY & WOOLLEY INC. DESIGN COMMUNICATIONS 121 LOGAN AVENUE TORONTO, ONTARIO CANADA M4M 2M9 PHONE 416 504 2742 COVER PHOTOGRAPHY, CHRIS NICHOLLS; STYLING, JIMMY MOORHOUSE, PLUTINO GROUP; GROOMING, LAURA SZUCS, JUDY INC. COPYRIGHT 2014 HARRY ROSEN INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ADVERTISERS’ CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS.

IN THE BLACK

Departments 27 30 40 110 112 113 114

LETTER NOTEBOOK ASK HARRY CITIES SERVICES GUIDE THE WORLD OF… EDWARD ARMAH

AT HARRY ROSEN, WE HOLD YOUR PERSONAL INFORMATION IN STRICTEST CONFIDENCE, IN FULL ACCORDANCE WITH PROVINCIAL AND FEDERAL PRIVACY GUIDELINES. FOR FURTHER DETAILS, ACCESS WWW.HARRYROSEN.COM. TO OPT OUT OF FURTHER COMMUNICATIONS, E-MAIL US AT NOTICES@HARRYROSEN.COM OR CONTACT OUR PRIVACY OFFICER AT 416 935 9221 OR E-MAIL PRIVACY@HARRYROSEN.COM. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. COLOUR SEPARATIONS AND PRINTING PROVIDED BY TC TRANSCONTINENTAL.

VOLUME 18, ISSUE 2 CANADIAN PUBLICATIONS MAIL PRODUCT SALES AGREEMENT 40051686 CANADIAN POSTMASTER SEND ADDRESS CHANGE NOTICES AND UNDELIVERABLE COPIES TO: HARRY ROSEN INC. 77 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1600 TORONTO, ONTARIO CANADA M5S 1M2 FOR A CHANGE IN ADDRESS, PLEASE WRITE OR E-MAIL US AT:

HARRY ROSEN INC. 77 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1600 TORONTO, ONTARIO CANADA M5S 1M2 E-MAIL HARRY@HARRYROSEN.COM HARRY MAGAZINE IS PRINTED ON PAPER FROM WELLMANAGED FORESTS, CONTAINS 10 PERCENT POST-CONSUMER CONTENT AND IS CHLORINEAND ACID-FREE. OUR POLYBAGS USE 25 PERCENT RECYCLED PLASTIC.

Harry’s Letter

WHAT A YEAR IT’S BEEN, CELEBRATING OUR 60TH ANNIVERSARY! We have had so many congratulations and kind words from our clients and our suppliers, and we are very proud that they consider us Canada’s leading menswear specialist. But my father always told me it wasn’t enough to be the best in Canada: we have to be among the best in the world. That has been our mantra all along, so it was particularly pleasing to be recognized by MR Magazine in New York as one of the world’s 10 Most Influential Stores in Menswear. And the cherry on the cake for me personally (and I’m almost embarrassed to mention it because the honour really belongs to the whole organization) was to be named the Retail Council of Canada’s Distinguished Retailer of the Year.

Despite all the excitement, I like to think our feet are still firmly on the ground.

This business may be complicated but our philosophy is really very simple – a philosophy my father started with in 1954 and that we carry on to this day: to operate with integrity and stand behind our word. We know that’s why you, our clients, trust us – and also because we give you superior advice on how to build your wardrobe and bring you the best merchandise the world has to offer. In return, you give us your loyalty, for which we are truly grateful. Thank you for helping to make us successful!

The past 60 years have been fascinating but the future is also exciting to contemplate. With several major American department stores entering our marketplace, we made the decision not to hide from the competition but to behave in a cocky, confident way, putting aside our naturally reserved Canadian nature. This is our home field and we will continue to set the standard of excellence with outstanding service to our clients and the most beautiful, state-of-the-art stores. This year and on into 2016, we are completing the upgrade of our entire portfolio of properties, with major renovations in Calgary and Vancouver, and new flagship stores in Ottawa, in Toronto’s Sherway Gardens, in Square One in Mississauga, and in downtown Montreal. And we’re also investing heavily in our online and e-commerce capabilities, a rapidly growing part of our business since so many of our customers appreciate the convenience of shopping online as well as in our stores. We feel more than ready for the changes that lie ahead.

Robert Tateossian (right) expounds upon the finer details of a pair of his cufflinks for Larry Rosen at the Pitti Uomo menswear fashion show in Florence, in June.

(Left to right) Jeff Farbstein, Gildo Zegna and Larry Rosen at the Z Zegna show at Pitti Uomo, marking the relaunch of the Z Zegna label.

Larry Rosen, chairman and ceo harry rosen inc.

The inaugural Golf to Conquer Cancer, presented by Harry Rosen Inc., took place on June 16 at Coppinwood Golf Club in Uxbridge, Ont., and was a spectacular success, raising $800,000 for cancer research at the Princess Margaret Cancer Centre. Our congratulations to the winning foursome of the Rosen Cup: Tim Oldfield of Grant Thornton, Michael Leroux, CIBC, Jeff Pocock, Grant Thornton, and James Logan, CIBC. We can’t wait to grow the event next year!

To take part, contact Nick Taylor, chief golf officer, Golf to Conquer Cancer, at nick.taylor@thepmcf.ca.

FALL/WINTER 2014 27

Notebook

Sharing information; tracking the new and noteworthy

01 A New Tradition HARRY ROSEN HAS CARRIED POLO RALPH LAUREN SPORTSWEAR FOR A WHILE; THIS SEASON SEES THE ARRIVAL OF TAILORED CLOTHING FROM THE SAME COLLECTION.

For whom are these refreshingly stylish suits and jackets intended? Ralph Lauren describes his customer as “the new traditional gentleman,” a man who appreciates a heritage look and authentic, time-honoured tailoring details but also wants contemporary cuts and modern, lightweight fabrics. To achieve this, Lauren has commissioned the finest mills in the U.K. and Italy to develop unique fabrics that look like traditional flannel but are amazingly light and supple to the touch.

It’s all part of the playful, preppy American spirit that runs through the entire Polo Ralph Lauren collection, making it so easy to pair and layer sweaters, accessories and sportswear with the new suits and jackets. Of course, they will look great at the office, but they are really intended for the man who wears a suit because he enjoys the idea of dressing up for social occasions. Available at our CORE - TD Square store in Calgary and at our Eaton Centre and Yorkdale stores in Toronto.

h

TO SEE OUR VIDEO ABOUT POLO RALPH LAUREN TAILORED CLOTHING, please go to

www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14

30

HARRY

PHOTOGRAPHY, CHRIS NICHOLLS; STYLING, LEE SULLIVAN, PLUTINO GROUP

POLO RALPH LAUREN jacket, $895, shirt, $135, pants, $350, and tie, $85.

01

01 BOSS BRAX $245. $350.

02 CANALI $450.

03 BOSS BRAX $245. $350.

04 HILTL $295.

05 HILTL $295.

02

03

04

PHOTOGRAPHY, BRIAN SANO; STYLING, DEE CONNOLLY

05

02 Five-Pocket Flannels IMAGINE A PAIR OF TROUSERS THAT HAS THE COMFORT OF FIVE-POCKET CHINOS BUT THE SOPHISTICATED LOOK AND FEEL OF LIGHTWEIGHT WOOL DRESS PANTS.

The dream becomes reality this fall, with an extraordinary number of top menswear

designers – including Canali, Hiltl, BOSS and Brax – producing a version of the idea. The range of colours is traditional – all shades of grey, mid-blues, rich browns – and some show discreet herringbone or check patterns; the novelty

is in the fabrication. The texture of these wool or flannel pants is a perfect complement to a sports jacket or cardigan and looks great under a woollen coat – a serious step up from the jacket-andjeans stereotype but just as comfortable.

FALL/WINTER 2014

31

Notebook

03 Checks, Mate AH, THE SHIFTING TIDES OF FASHION! A couple of years ago, striped shirts were ubiquitous; now you rarely see one. Instead, designers have developed a serious enthusiasm for checks – every kind of check, from mini-checks to full-blown plaid.

Some of these shirts are decidedly dressy, like these examples from Eton with their crisp, strong patterns; they look particularly good with a woollen or knitted tie. Our BOSS versions are a tad more casual but still boldly colourful. The third brand is new to Harry Rosen – and to the world. Sunson launched its first collection this fall, a range of casual sport shirts and knit boxer shorts that the new company’s director, Toronto-based designer David Bendayan, calls Aristocratic Farmer. With its top-quality Italian fabric and uniquely set collar, the Sunson shirt is already acquiring a very sophisticated fan base.

Top row, ETON, $285, $265, and $275. Centre row, BOSS, $155, $205, and $165.

Bottom row, SUNSON, all $298.

04 Odd Socks BRITISH FASHION DESIGNER AND TASTEMAKER SIR PAUL SMITH FIRST SET UP SHOP IN THE 1970s AND SOON BECAME RENOWNED FOR HIS RESPECT FOR HIGH-QUALITY WORKMANSHIP AND TRADITION, LEAVENED BY A ECCENTRICITY. You can certainly find that in the socks he designs, especially in his odd socks – a left and a right that bear a strong resemblance to each other but don’t actually match. Then there are the polka-dot socks or the ones with innumerable multicoloured stripes, or others that seem inspired by Mondrian or Rothko. Not a plain black or grey in the whole collection! Most are mid-calf-length but some are “executive length” reaching almost to the knee to ensure a wrinkle-free ankle. For summer, Paul Smith also makes no-show socks, hidden from the public eye inside a shoe but still a riot of colour.

New to Harry Rosen, these midcalf-length socks and executive-length socks start at $35.

32

HARRY

PHOTOGRAPHY, BRIAN SANO; STYLING, DEE CONNOLLY

WHIMSICAL, VERY ENGLISH

01

01 LARRY ROSEN RECEIVES HIS AWARD AS THE RETAIL COUNCIL OF CANADA’S DISTINGUISHED RETAILER OF THE YEAR, PRESENTED

BY BETTY DEVITA, PRESIDENT OF MASTERCARD CANADA, KEY SPONSOR OF THE EVENT. 02 ENJOYING THE VIBE AT THE RCC EVENT WITH WILLY J. KRUH, GLOBAL CHAIRMAN, CONSUMER MARKETS AT KPMG. 03 IN THE SPOTLIGHT AT THE RCC EVENT.

02

03

05 The World is Wild About Harry AS HARRY ROSEN CELEBRATES ITS 60TH YEAR, WE ARE DELIGHTED TO SHARE NEWS OF TWO MORE OUTSTANDING HONOURS. On

June 3, 1,000 leaders from Canada’s retail industry gathered at a glittering dinner in Toronto to salute Larry Rosen, chairman and CEO of Harry Rosen, as the Retail Council of Canada’s Distinguished Retailer of the Year. This prestigious award recognizes a leader who has guided a retail company to outstanding business success and innovation, while consistently demonstrating commitment to community support.

“Unfortunately, I can’t take all the credit,” said Rosen in his acceptance speech. “I’ve always believed my job is to steward what my father started, and to grow and evolve it. And I do that alongside a team of supremely talented people.”

In July, Harry Rosen was further honoured to be selected as one of the world’s 10 Most Influential Stores in Menswear by New York-based MR Magazine, the most important menswearindustry publication on the planet. Addressing the guests at the gala, held in New York’s Four Seasons hotel, MR’s editor-inchief, Karen Alberg Grossman, expressed her excitement about the winners: “In an era of rapidly changing retail parameters, one in which consumers are calling the shots, merchants who manage to innovate while staying true to their core values truly deserve recognition.” Harry Rosen is the only non-U.S. company to be included in the ranking, and we thank MR for the recognition.

FALL/WINTER 2014

33

06 Exclusive Goose CANADA GOOSE AND HARRY ROSEN HAVE COMBINED THEIR EXPERTISE TO CREATE TWO NEW PIECES OF OUTERWEAR EXCLUSIVELY FOR HARRY ROSEN CUSTOMERS. The first is a vest in down-filled Arctic fabric – classic Canada Goose, except instead of patch pockets, this unique vest has fleecelined, side-entry pockets that don’t disturb its sleek silhouette.

The vest is available in six colours including bonfire orange and Celtic green, vibrant tones coaxed out of the Canada Goose colour archive by Harry Rosen. $295.

Canada Goose calls our second collaboration the Berwick –

34

HARRY

a bomber that takes the company’s best-selling Chilliwack jacket to a new level of sophistication. What’s new? The coyote-fur ruff is removable and so is the hood, giving you several options in terms of looks and making it much easier to clean (fur + dry cleaners usually = trouble). A flap hides the zip around the collar, so even without the hood everything looks trim and tidy. With ribbed, elasticized cuffs and hem, side-entry hand warmers and a TEI rating of 3, this jacket will definitely keep out the winter cold. Available in eight colours including new Pacific blue. $695.

PHOTOGRAPHY, CHRIS NICHOLLS; STYLING, LEE SULLIVAN, PLUTINO GROUP

Notebook

07

Moncler Plus MONCLER CAN CLAIM TO BE A PIONEER OF “MIXED MEDIA” OUTERWEAR – THAT IS, COATS AND JACKETS MADE FROM MORE THAN ONE KIND OF MATERIAL. It is also renowned for its capsule collections, collaborating with other design houses to create something exciting and new. The most recent partnership involved designer Yosuke Aizawa of White Mountaineering, a Japanese company that also specializes in technical outerwear. The result of this union is an extraordinary coat, best described, perhaps, as a down-filled winter baseball jacket.

The sleeves are made of soft, supple white leather while the asymmetrical body of the jacket combines blue pinstriped wool and nylon. This exceptionally stylish and very limited edition is available at Harry Rosen’s 82 Bloor Street West and Yorkdale stores in Toronto and at our Pacific Centre store in Vancouver. $2,655.

08 Cool Running

PHOTOGRAPHY, BRIAN SANO; STYLING, DEE CONNOLLY

FANS OF MONCLER HAVE NEW CAUSE FOR JOY – AND SO DO THEIR FEET. This season brings Moncler’s own line of very cool, sporty footwear to Harry Rosen. How about a pair of lightweight Monaco sneakers in white leather or grey suede, with suave lines and a minimum of bling?

They look great with any kind of casual pants. Or check out the white leather high-tops; Moncler keeps the branding subtle with tiny logos on eyelets and the top of the tongue. Another sneaker-boot hybrid in grey suede comes with a built-in gilet in super-soft, camo-patterned felt for extra warmth and comfort. Black sneakers, $355; white high-tops, $575.

FALL/WINTER 2014

35

Ask Harry

Sometimes even the most sartorially confident man needs an expert opinion

“How many suits do I really need?”

IT DEPENDS ON HOW OFTEN YOU WEAR ONE.

If you wear a suit five days a week, for business or other reasons, our rule of thumb has always been that you’ll need at least five seasonally appropriate suits. Some might be strictly summer weight or fall weight, others might be wearable year-round, but they should be different enough in colour and pattern to offer you a useful diversity. With five suits, you can rotate them during the week so you don’t wear the same suit on consecutive days and can have a fresh look every day. Mixing up the coordination where your shirts and ties are concerned furthers the variety of your looks.

But what if you only wear a suit, say, three times a week? Exactly the same points apply, but now you only need a

minimum of three seasonally appropriate suits. And if you don’t wear a suit to work but only need it for special occasions, you might be able to get by with two.

However, the fewer suits you have, the more important it is that they should be different. Men are notorious for becoming comfortable with a certain colour or pattern; they end up buying a suit very like one they already own. A man who always looks the same risks being thought of as dull and predictable.

ROTATE YOUR SUITS TO KEEP YOUR LOOK

FRESH

Building a Suit Wardrobe Put together your suit wardrobe at whatever pace suits you and according to your needs.

If you only need a minimum of three suits, we recommend you start with the first three suggestions.

We always recommend that a man’s first suit should be a dressy plain black or navy suit for maximum versatility. It looks great at the office with a coloured or patterned shirt, with or without a tie, but can also be dressed up with a white Frenchcuffed shirt and elegant tie for evening and semi-formal occasions.

The second suit should be significantly different – a dark grey suit with a discreet stripe or pattern.

Grey is the ideal background for shirts, ties and pocket squares from anywhere in the colour spectrum.

The third suit introduces h

even more variety, in a mid-shade of blue or grey and with a pattern or stripe you haven’t already selected for your first and second suits.

The fourth suit offers an opportunity to choose a fabric with character of its own, perhaps a more decisive pattern such as a bold banker’s stripe, herringbone or glen check. This season, many top design houses are playing with such English heritage patterns, making use of subtle but rich touches of colour to bring the fabric to life.

The fifth suit should be entirely different again.

Have fun with a less conventional colour such as brown, olive or tan or experiment with the freshness of a three-piece or double-breasted suit. And of course this is just the beginning: a world of suits awaits you.

FIND OUT MORE ABOUT OUR CLOTHING ADVISORS and OUR LIFETIME MAINTENANCE GUARANTEE at

www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14

The Value of Advice

40

HARRY

Your best ally in building a suit wardrobe is your Harry Rosen clothing advisor. He or she takes a personalized approach to finding the suits that best satisfy your needs

and can help you embrace strategic variety while also complementing the rest of your wardrobe. All our advisors are experts in this.

They can also help you test

drive a number of different brands until you find the suit that looks and feels right for you, while working within your budget.

PHOTOGRAPHY, BRIAN SANO; STYLING, DEE CONNOLLY

1 PLAIN NAVY OR BLACK A classic first suit offering maximum versatility for business, evening events and semi-formal occasions.

2 DARK GREY WITH A SUBTLE STRIPE A different colour and a discreet stripe set this suit apart. Grey works with any colour of shirt and tie.

3 MID-GREY OR MID-BLUE WITH A CHECK OR STRIPE Something distinctly different from your first two suits.

4 MID-BLUE OR MID-GREY WITH A STRIPE OR CHECK The alternative colour to suit number 3.

5 MIX IT UP Time to be a touch less conventional with a fabric in brown, olive or tan.

FALL/WINTER 2014

41

Ask Harry

“I see why a good suit is expensive but why should I spend a lot of money on shoes?”

YOUR QUESTION REALLY HAS TWO ANSWERS.

PHOTOGRAPHY, BRIAN SANO; STYLING, DEE CONNOLLY

First, a good-quality pair of shoes is a better investment than a cheaper pair of shoes.

Secondly, today’s man needs a much broader range of footwear than he used to.

When I started in this business, shoes were the last thing a man thought about. He basically had one pair of dress shoes, usually black, and usually inexpensive, and he wore them to death, then replaced them.

Thankfully, that attitude has changed and many of our customers now appreciate the value of good-quality footwear. A tremendous amount of craftsmanship goes into a fine pair of shoes and many men take considerable pleasure in wearing them. Not only are they more comfortable than cheap shoes, but they also look better and will last years longer, if properly cared for. In other words, they really are a worthwhile investment.

Additionally, men now dress much more eclectically than they used to. Their wardrobe has become more diverse and more nuanced, reflecting all the many dimensions of a busy modern life from formal business to more casual business wear, to dressing for special events or for simply hanging out. Shoes have evolved alongside. Instead of relying on those all-purpose black dress shoes and a pair of runners for weekends, today’s man understands that a shoe wardrobe is de rigueur – and the options available to him are legion.

42

HARRY

h

READ OUR BLOG POSTS ABOUT BUILDING A SHOE WARDROBE AND ABOUT SHOE CARE at

www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14

The Anatomy of a Shoe COUNTER heel support UPPER HEEL LINING BOX TOE support

SOCK LINING SHOCK ABSORBER

LINING

INSOLE STEEL SHANK GOODYEAR WELT GENUINE STITCH OUTSOLE

ILLUSTRATION, REMIE GEOFFROI

HEEL

A good-quality shoe really is a fascinating piece of craftsmanship, designed to be comfortable but durable, supple but tough. And how do you define “good-quality”?

The line of differentiation is quite clear and is also marked by a leap in price. The soles of lesser shoes are glued to the uppers. They

fall apart and when the soles wear out, you might as well throw the shoes away. With a good-quality shoe, the sole is sewn to the upper with a genuine stitch that runs along the perimeter of the outsole. Alternatively, the sole and the upper are each sewn separately to an intervening layer of leather called a

“Goodyear welt.” Invented by Charles Goodyear Jr., son of the man who first vulcanized rubber, this welt allows a shoemaker to replace the sole quickly and inexpensively, over and over again, prolonging the life of the shoe. Another reason why quality is a sound investment.

FALL/WINTER 2014

43

54 HARRY

PHOTOGRAPHY, TK; STYLING, TK

HOPE DREAMS Masai Ujiri led the Toronto Raptors to a record season this year but his eyes are fixed on the future – not just for Canada’s NBA team, but for the Africa of tomorrow

BY GARY BUTLER

PHOTOGRAPHY, TK; STYLING, TK

Z

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARKIAN LOZOWCHUK

ARIA, NIGERIA. CIRCA 1980. On a typically sunny afternoon (average temperature 25°C), a few boys head out to play some ball. Past the campus of Ahmadu Bello University, past the elementary school, towards the public-use athletics fields, there sits a basketball court: small, but easily big enough for a bunch of 10-or-so-year-olds. There are dunks, there are (body) slams, there are good times had by all. Eventually, one boy – let’s call him Masai – sinks a superb basket on a very tight angle. In fact, let’s remember it as a three-point shot off of a perfect pick and roll. He collects a round of deserved high-fives.

Oh, but look at the time! The youths all but flee the court,

and sprint across the grass. As he runs, Masai clutches the soccer ball to his chest.

Mustn’t be late for practice.

“In Africa, you come out of your mom’s stomach kicking.

That’s just the nature of how you grow up: with soccer,” Masai Ujiri tells me. “But, at 13 years of age, I fell in love with basketball.”

It takes an uncommon NBA executive to admit that he spent his formative years dreaming of goals, not hoops. Of course, the current general manager of the Toronto Raptors is anything but common, and not just because he’s one of those rare GMs under 50 years of age. In 2013, as executive vice-president of the FALL/WINTER 2014 55

Top: A portrait of Nelson Mandela is front and centre in Masai Ujiri’s office.

Bottom: Ujiri strategizes with Teresa Resch, director, Basketball Operations with the Toronto Raptors.

“ I’m not one of those GMs who walks around saying, ‘You’re a player: go play.’ I see these guys as little brothers,” he says.

“When I see players that face challenges... as a man, I want to help them.”

Denver Nuggets, Ujiri was not only the runaway choice for NBA Executive of the Year but also the award’s first non-American recipient. That same year, he accepted what was widely reported as a five-year, $15-million deal with the Raptors, making him the first African-born general manager for an American major league team in any sports category. You could top off that pair of firsts with Ujiri notching the most victories in any GM’s first season with the Raptors. Come to that, he also notched the most victories in any of the team’s seasons, ever.

I’m sitting in front of Ujiri’s modest-sized desk in his also modest-sized (for a GM) glass-walled, 15th-floor, northeast-corner office at Maple Leaf Sports & Entertainment – to most of you, the tower jutting out of the Air Canada Centre – and I see a man who is comfortable in his skin, his clothes, his environment. He exudes confidence and speaks deliberately enough to mean what he says, while responding quickly enough for it to have come from the heart. His famous smile suits his sincere demeanour. (The first time Ujiri met his idol – whose portrait hangs directly over his shoulder, the most prominent position in his office, “where it should be” – Nelson Mandela said to him, “That’s a great smile you have there, young man.”)

Smiles were plentiful when Canada’s basketball team proudly unveiled its new “We The North” campaign one day before this

56 HARRY

interview. Two days from now, the Raptors will compete in their first post-season game since 2008. The only thing that surprises me more than having landed an interview at such a crucial time is the fact that Ujiri seems anything but stressed. “Expectations come with these kinds of seasons, but I’m not an expectations person,” he says. “I understand expectations from the public, fan or media point of view. But I like building patience – growth.

I see a growing team here.”

Obliquely, Ujiri is pointing out that, regardless of the playoffs outcome (which will see Toronto lose to the Brooklyn Nets 4-3, by a heartbreaking-but-proud one point in game seven), the 2013-14 season stands as an indisputable victory for the Raptors.

Better still, from where the GM’s sitting, this success is just the beginning.

The fans certainly feel the change. There’s an exhilarating energy at a game these days. After six years of squabbling and, well, kind of squelching, the Raptors have come together as never before. By accentuating the positive and eliminating the negative, Ujiri seems to have changed the mood of the entire team.

Typically, he insists that the credit goes to the coaches and the players, though he does admit, proudly, to instilling a familial attitude. “I’m not one of those GMs who walks around saying, ‘You’re a player: go play.’ I see these guys as little brothers,” he

Ujiri inspires schoolchildren at Toronto’s Nelson Mandela Public School last June.

Top left, from left to right: Toronto Raptor Amir Johnson; Raptors’s head coach Dwane Casey; former NBA great and renowned humanitarian Dikembe Mutumbo; Masai Ujiri; Toronto City Councillor James Pasternak; Sello Hatang, CEO of the Nelson Mandela Foundation; and Jerome Du Plooy, TV and radio presenter.

says. “When I see players that face challenges... as a man, I want to help them.”

Putting the “man” in “manager”: a nice distinction. Whatever Ujiri is doing, from talking to trading to team-building, it’s working. When Kyle Lowry and fellow Raptor Steve Novak exchanged a few heated words during a game against the Phoenix Suns in March, it became news. Not because teammates were publicly bickering (par for the course in this superstar-driven sport) nor because it led to anything (it was “gone like that,” says Ujiri) but because it was the first time any of the Raptors had publicly bickered all season. Rather than tarnish Canada’s reputation for politeness and cooperation, the dispute only reinforced it.

Of Canadian culture, Ujiri speaks with relish, passion. During the interview, he calls our country “home” numerous times, with good reason: his daughter was born here. Of lesser importance but still notable is the fact that this remarkable man, who has lived in Africa, Russia, America and various European countries, has “never really lived in a city. I’ve always been on the move, and everywhere I have lived, I’ve always been in the suburbs... It wasn’t a city feeling. I wanted to have that: a London, New York or Toronto city feeling.” (Unlike polite Canadians, Ujiri does not hesitate to name-drop Toronto in terms of cities with a worldclass reputation.) He talks about the aforementioned verbless “We The North” campaign as being “a direct message” that check-

boxes pride, determination and, yes, cold weather. “I like the new campaign because you don’t want to continue to talk about why people don’t want to come here,” he says. “We want to make this a place where we are triggering them to think, ‘You know what?

Toronto is pretty cool and that team is pretty cool.’”

At this point, I want to join the Raptors, and I (almost) want winter to return. Chatting with Ujiri makes me feel good about myself. It’s like we’re having the world’s nicest-ever job interview, though I’m supposed to be the one doing the interviewing. “I know it’s a business,” he says. “There’s some things we can say and some things we cannot, but I try to be as direct and honest as I can.” I realize that his motivational management style is easier said than done, addressing situations the right way. He always encourages, never admonishes his players. He could have talked about Canada being warm for three (well, okay, two) seasons of the year, but instead embraced the cold. “I was given an opportunity,” he says of his current position, though he could equally be talking about any life-step or project, “so my first reaction with anything is opportunity.”

The continent where Ujiri was born remains his biggest opportunity, and it quite possibly will be his life’s work. From the moment he launched his brief playing career, in Europe, Ujiri participated in charity endeavours for Africa. A former director of the NBA program Basketball Without Borders, he founded Giants FALL/WINTER 2014 57

Last June in Toronto, Giants of Africa and the Nelson Mandela Foundation presented “Madiba,” a tribute evening to Nelson Mandela, hosted by Masai Ujiri. Top right, among those present were (left to right) broadcaster Wolf Blitzer, Sello Hatang, Masai Ujiri, South African activist Tokyo Sexwale and sports presenter Carol Tshabalala. Bottom right, Wolf Blitzer, Kathy Behrens, executive vicepresident, Social Responsibility & Player Programs for the NBA, and Masai Ujiri. Ujiri is founder of Giants of Africa.

of Africa with the stated intention of using basketball “as a means to educate and enrich the lives of the youth of Africa,” running annual camps in Nigeria and, as of this August, Kenya. An N1 deal (colloquially: “Nice One!”) with Nike has assured that the participants have shoes, jerseys, basketballs – things that North Americans don’t realize they take for granted, and things that Ujiri, who learned to shoot hoops with a soccer ball, will never take for granted.

Ujiri tells an anecdote about his father, a hospital administrator, obtaining a bag of rice and insisting the majority of it be divided up amongst his staff. “Everybody loved my parents because they helped,” he says. “Some of that rubbed off on me.” Hoop dreams are well and good – and, absolutely, to be encouraged – but, as with Ujiri’s long-view perspective on the Raptors, you could say that the man wants to bring “hope dreams” to his birth home.

“I’ll be honest and tell you that this job, the Raptors,” he says, “I have never gone home and lost sleep, one day, one second.

For me, there is no pressure. If it works, it works; if it doesn’t, it doesn’t. But with Africa, with the charity work, with helping people back home – that’s where I feel a lot of pressure.” Selfimposed, of course, in his genes.

Personal style isn’t a point of pressure for Ujiri. Still, he has garnered a reputation for being a snazzy dresser and says that the impact of presentation affects every person’s confidence, whether 58 HARRY

it’s his charity’s beneficiaries in Zaria today, proud in the proper training gear he and his peers never had, or Ujiri himself, living his life in Toronto. When he’s in a suit and tie, it’s usually Zegna: “I think Zegna is very cool.” Otherwise, he wears “comfortable jeans, and a dress shirt and a blazer. You never know who might sit next to you or who you might have to talk to.”

I look down at my vintage ’70s oxblood-red “hoodlum” leather jacket and realize that, if this had really been an employment interview, I probably disqualified myself the moment I entered the room. Ujiri wouldn’t wear a jacket like this, right?

“No, probably not,” he says. “I love the colour – I would wear that colour.” (That’s right: I didn’t get the “job,” but I’ll leave the interview empowered.)

To some people, dressing for success sounds superficial.

Those people should have a chat with Masai Ujiri. “Appearance is important, very important,” he says, and mentions, laughing, that customs officers often fail to believe that he is who he is: the general manager of the Toronto Raptors. I venture that appearance is arguably more important for him because he’s a role model. “I don’t know if I’m a role model,” says Ujiri. “But I’m in a position where I’m sure people pay attention a little bit. I have to respect that.”

Absolutely. More than that, we respect that that’s exactly what a role model would say. h

60

In honour of HARRY ROSEN’S 60TH ANNIVERSARY, we offer a checklist that we hope will prove useful.

1.

An elegant plain navy or black suit for semi-formal events

THINGS EVE V RY MAN SHOULD S HAVE IN HIS WARDROB

2.

A striped suit in navy or grey

8.

10.

A cocktail jacket

A military or field jacket

3.

A checked suit in grey

7.

A navy blazer – dress it up or down – the most versatile sports jacket

9.

An unstructured sports jacket to wear casually

11.

4.

A classic wool or cashmere overcoat

A lounging suit

12.

60 HARRY

5.

6.

A tan summer suit

A peak-lapel tuxedo

A Burberry trench coat

18.

17.

A pair of dark, straight-legged, unembellished jeans

A pair of casual trousers in a cool new colour

14.

A leather motorcycle jacket

13.

A navy peacoat

15.

16.

19.

20.

21.

Grey flannel dress pants

A white, Frenchcuffed dress shirt

A blue dress shirt

A selection of checked and striped dress shirts

A winter parka

26.

23.

24.

25.

A V-neck sweater in fine merino wool or cashmere

A full-zip ribbed knit sweater

A cardigan

22.

27.

Patent-leather formal shoes

A pair of black, lace-up dress shoes

A cashmere sweater

28.

32.

A pair of desert boots

A pair of brown dress shoes

29.

A pair of Chelsea boots

33.

30.

A pair of Tod’s driving shoes

A pair of Swims in a cheerful colour

31.

34.

A pair of coloured shoelaces to add punch

A pair of loafers

37.

A knit tie

35.

A simple, dark dressy tie

38.

36.

A tie-your-own formal bow tie

Some strong coloured ties

40.

39.

A dressy pair of novel cufflinks

Proper suit hangers

46.

41.

A pair of sports gloves

A white pocket square

43.

42.

An assortment of patterned silk pocket squares

48.

49.

A Tom Ford cologne

A ribbed knit toque

50.

A cashmere scarf

44.

A black umbrella A Rolex Submariner watch

45.

A pair of black fine-leather gloves

55.

51.

A medium-sized bag for an overnight trip

52.

A Tumi overnight suit bag

47.

A pair of Vilebrequin swimming trunks

A leather wallet

53.

54.

A good-quality briefcase

A proper toiletry bag

56.

A good pen

57.

58.

59.

60.

A dress belt in black and another in brown

A casual belt

Saxx underwear

Good-quality patterned hosiery

World of Wonders

By Alec Scott

Photography by Brian Sano

Many of the coats, shoes, boots and accessories that ended up at Harry Rosen this fall came a long way to get here, with materials and/or inspiration leading back to Spain, Italy, Japan, Ghana, Ireland, Switzerland, Korea and England. From far and, sometimes, near, Harry Rosen’s buyers source merchandise from around the world.

Here are just a few of our finds.

66 HARRY

1

The American Way Wolverine, Chicago, USA 41.8819° N, 87.6278° W THE WOLVERINE 1000 MILE BOOT IS NEW TO HARRY ROSEN THIS FALL, BUT THE LINE IS AN OLD ONE. Wolverine, founded in 1883, has long been based in Big Rapids, Mich., and the first version of its 1000 Mile boot came out in far-off 1914.

“Essentially, they’re a dress boot with a rugged influence,” says Kevin Eisenberg, the senior buyer responsible for footwear.

Under suit trousers, most versions of the boot look like oxford shoes – with their visible stitching, short heels and long, round, unadorned toes. But with weekend pants, doing active, weekend activities, the footwear shows its workboot roots. “This is a category we’ve watched grow over the years,” Eisenberg says.

“These boots have clean, classic lines. There is not a single fussy thing about them.”

While Harry Rosen will carry the special centennial edition of the boots, the entire line tends to last well beyond the 1000 miles for which it’s named. The bison and cow leather used to make the boots comes from the storied Horween Leather Company. Founded in 1905, it’s now the last of the over 400 tanneries that once filled an industrial district of Chicago. Horween’s exacting 89-step tanning process, the “Chromexcel treatment,” means scratches on the leather can generally be buffed away and the boots acquire a much-prized patina as they age.

2

WOLVERINE boot, $420.

Pocket Circles, Boutonnieres Edward Armah, New Jersey, USA 40.0000° N, 74.5000° W EDWARD ARMAH scarf, $225, pocket circle, $85, bow tie, $98, and boutonniere, $45.

“YOU CAN TELL EDWARD ARMAH “ HAS WORKED IN RETAIL – WHAT H HA THE CUSTOMERS WANT AND NEED, TH THAT SENSE IS IN HIS PRODUCTS.” So says Fatih Tandogan, accessories buyer for Harry Rosen. He points to how some of Armah’s bow ties are reversible – “two for one, who doesn’t like that?”; to how easy it is to use Armah’s invention, the pocket circle – “no complicated folds to learn, no barrier to entry, just stuff it in your pocket and go”; and to how attractive his products look when displayed – “we have his brightly coloured pieces on a carousel, and even our most serious, sophisticated customers are drawn to it, that kid-in-a-candy-store effect.”

Armah tells his personal story on the back page of this magazine, of being a Ghanaian immigrant to the U.S. who took

what he learned as a menswear salesman alesma a and created his own brand of accessories. ori or “We began carrying his boutonnieres, utonnier his bow ties and pocket circles early,” Tandogan says. “They’re not stuffy – there are pin-up girls on some, goldfish and butterflies on others. And this fall, we’ve begun featuring his scarves.” The latter have paisleys on maroon, brown and purple backgrounds.

For fabrics, Armah ranges widely, using Irish linen, Sea Island cotton and Italian silk.

On days when you don’t want to wear a tie with your suit, an Edward Armah pocket circle in a light blue silk might go with one of his small cornflower-blue boutonnieres. And both might pick up the different blue of a shirt. “You don’t need to match them precisely,” says Tandogan.

“Just let them speak to each other.”

FALL/WINTER 2014 67

3

Warm and Cool

Mackage, Montreal, Canada 45.5000° N, 73.5667° W

ELISA DAHAN AND ERAN ELFASSY MET AT AGE 12 IN SCHOOL IN MONTREAL – and the coats made by their company, Mackage, reflect their home city’s flair. “We were the kids who were out until all hours,” Dahan says, “and we always had these small leather jackets on ...”

Elfassy laughs at the memory and completes the story: “Yes, we thought those jackets looked so cool, but in the winters we pretty much froze to death.”

So, when the designers started Mackage in 1999, they wanted to make coats that were both cool to look at and warm to wear. Facing outward are classic materials in sober colours – top-quality wool and leather from Italy – but the interiors of Mackage jackets often contain surprises.

In general, the designers favour a tailored fit – they don’t admire a bulky profile or a puffy look. So they’ve found materials for the insides of their coats that ensure warmth without adding undue heft: special, compact down from Switzerland and high-tech, heat-conserving fabrics made in Japan and Korea for nifty linings.

“You know, they’re not the coats you’d choose to drive your dogsled across the frozen tundra,” Elfassy jokes. And this time, Dahan finishes her old friend and longtime business partner’s thought: “They’re downtown coats – but you can be out for the night at minus 30 for three hours, and you’ll be very well protected.”

MACKAGE coat, $850.

4

Foot Architecture

Filling Pieces, designed in Amsterdam, The Netherlands, made in Porto, Portugal 38.7000° N, 9.1833° W

FILLING PIECES sneakers, $450.

68 HARRY

AMSTERDAM-BASED DESIGNER GUILLAUME PHILIBERT CHIN HAS A SINGULAR NAME AND PRODUCES SHOES THAT TREAD THEIR OWN PATH. The “FP” on the tongues of his dressy sneakers stands for “Filling Pieces” – the name of his five-year-old firm.

“There’s traditionally been a huge gap between street style and what is suitable for more formal, more sophisticated settings,” says Harry Rosen’s Kevin Eisenberg. “These shoes aren’t on either side of that gap – somehow they manage to fill in the middle.”

Chin studied architecture, and the sneakers often feature strong structural elements. On some of his black low-rise sneakers, for instance, there’s a latticed surface, a prominent vertical tongue and five semi-circular metal eyelets through which the laces zigzag. These shoes aren’t made in the casual canvas of certain popular high-tops but in luxe leathers, including nubuck and python, made to Chin’s specifications in Portugal. As well as being offered in basic blacks and pristine whites, the shoes also come in bold colours and interesting finishes: as proof, sneakers that rock a lobster red, made from nubuck embossed to look like crocodile.

“The Filling Pieces sneakers might work in more creative workplaces, in tech,” Eisenberg says. “And also for occasions that are meant to be both formal and fun.”

5

London Pride

Harris Wharf, designed in London, England, made in Turin, Italy 45.0667° N, 7.7000° E

HARRIS WHARF jacket, $595.

GIULIA AND ALDO ACCHIARDI ARE FROM A FAMILY THAT HAS PRODUCED GARMENTS FROM GLOVES TO COATS IN TURIN, ITALY, FOR FOUR GENERATIONS. When they came of age, both moved to London for internships in fashion – Giulia, the older of the two, worked at Alexander McQueen, and Aldo at Vivienne Westwood.

One day in an antique market in Camden Passage, a small, glass-covered arcade of luxe shops in Islington, they came across a space to let, and decided to start their own label. Since 2009, the two siblings, still in their 20s, have sold coats made in Turin to Londoners, marketing them under the Harris Wharf brand.

“What I love about their coats is that there are classic lines, simplicity, but they are not as stiff or structured as traditional pieces.” So says Renata Leung, sportswear and outerwear buyer for Harry Rosen, which is

carrying this line for the first time this fall. “They mould to the body.

No shoulder pads – one of them feels almost like a sweater.”

Leung points out how the designers have left the coat’s construction obvious on the interior, unobscured by linings. “You can see and appreciate the details.”

And why not: through their family, the Acchiardis located a group of expert tailors in Turin who had once cut and stitched coats for Ungaro.

“The workmanship is Italian,” Leung says. “But the look is very London.

The coats can work in formal settings, but also casual ones. You might wear a T-shirt underneath some of them or, depending on the fit, a suit.”

In short, they’re the sorts of coats Jude Law might wear – to an outdoor pub lunch by the Regent’s Canal.

FALL/WINTER 2014 69

6

Mixed Media

Lottusse, Majorca, Spain 39.6167° N, 2.9833° E

THE SPANISH LEATHER-MAKING FIRM LOTTUSSE HAS MORE THAN 130 YEARS OF HISTORY UNDER ITS SUPPLE, PERFECTLY CUT BELT. Four generations of the Fluxá family have run the concern in Inca on the island of Majorca.

“So there’s that commitment to quality over time,” says Harry Rosen’s Renata Leung. “But they’ve also innovated a lot recently, becoming a pioneer of the mixed-media coat.” By this she means different materials artfully combined in one garment. As an example, Leung cites a baseball

LOTTUSSE coat, $1,295.

70 HARRY

jacket, new to Harry Rosen this fall, with a leather torso and nylon sleeves, and a field jacket with the inverse, a nylon body and leather sleeves. Their shearling jackets are also a particular forte: “The Spanish shearling, the lambskin, is far and away the best.”

“Mixed media isn’t totally new,” Leung says. (For instance, the Canadian brand Mackage also has a wool peacoat with leather sleeves, and a leather bomber jacket with a wool body – both also on offer this fall.)

“Lottusse does it so well – they’ve really hit the trend.” h

TO THE OLD MAP-MAKERS, FOGO ISLAND WAS ONE OF THE FOUR CORNERS OF THE EARTH, A REMOTE ISLAND IN THE COLD GREY ATLANTIC, NORTHEAST OF NEWFOUNDLAND.

FOGO ISLAND

Today, it harbours the most talked-about luxury destination in the world – the dramatic, otherworldly structure called the Fogo Island Inn. Far more than a hotel, the inn was built as life support for the unique outport communities on the island, inspired by the local culture and at the same time sustaining it.

Dominating the landscape close to the hamlet of Joe Batt’s Arm, with extraordinary views of the ocean and passing icebergs riding the Labrador current, Fogo Island Inn is like no other place in Canada.

Furniture, fabrics, quilts and artifacts are all made by local

artisans. If luxury and sophistication can also be authentically homespun, this is the shrine to such a concept.

Celebrating the milestone of our 60th year, it seemed like the ideal location for our fashion shoot, setting our sportswear against a background of austere natural beauty, of architecture both traditional and avantgarde, of an outport culture that is rugged and also poignantly intimate. We were honoured when the inn welcomed us. To get there, we flew to Gander, drove to Farewell, then took the ferry to Fogo Island. We reached the very edge of Canada – and found its heart.

FALL/WINTER 2014 75

KITON Sweater meets coat meets luxury in Kiton’s suave, lightweight bomber.

The sleeves are ribbed-knit cashmere, echoed on the waistband and sideentry pockets. The body is a woolcashmere blend with a light down filling – the perfect warmth for fall.

KITON jacket, $7,995, and pants, $950.

Two extremely companionable Newfoundland dogs named Make and Break live at the Fogo Island Inn.

76 HARRY

U LT I MA CAN ADA On-figure photography by Chris Nicholls; Styling by Jimmy Moorhouse (location) and Lee Sullivan (studio), both Plutino Group; Grooming by Laura Szucs, Judy Inc; Off-figure photography by Brian Sano; Styling by Dee Connolly

U LT I MA CAN ADA W YOU DRESS CASUALLY ON THE WEEKEND; YOU STILL WANT TO LOOK GREAT. IT COULD BE TIME TO UPDATE YOUR SPORTSWEAR. OUR LATEST COLLECTIONS HAVE A DYNAMIC ATTITUDE THAT ANSWERS THE DEMANDS OF COMFORT AND ALSO OF STYLE – CLOTHES THAT ARE RELAXED YET UNDENIABLY SHARP.

GIORGIO ARMANI This double-breasted peacoat in ribbed navy leather is extraordinarily soft to the touch. The grey merino-wool lining is also ribbed – it almost seems to cling to your torso. Substantial and warm, it’s a unique hybrid of the peacoat and the leather jacket.

GIORGIO ARMANI coat, $7,895, and pants, $1,045.

78 HARRY

MONCLER Moncler was a pioneer of mixed-media coats; this full-zip hoodie is another fascinating example. The front and sleeves are those of a merino-wool sweater; the back and hood are down-filled quilted nylon.

MONCLER hybrid jacket, $750; PYA knit, $65; JACOB COHËN pants, $825.

FALL/WINTER 2014 79

MAURIZIO BALDASSARI Inspired by the casual Bohemian elegance of Milan’s Brera quarter, Baldassari offers a stylish navy sweater jacket – an unlined, buttonup cardigan shaped like a blazer.

MAURIZIO BALDASSARI cardigan, $798, shirt, $275, pants, $298, and knit tie, $110.

80 HARRY

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Unabashed luxury… This midnight blue, trimmed shearling stadium coat is as soft and warm as it looks. Lighter and less bulky than traditional shearlings, it shows a flawless attention to detail, from the removable hood and fleece-lined pockets to the bright nickel hardware and signature horn buttons.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA coat, $7,195, knit, $845, shirt, $345, and pants, $345.

Architect Todd Saunders drew upon the Newfoundland outport tradition of building fishing stages on wooden stilts when designing the inn.

FALL/WINTER 2014 81

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Remember when shearlings were stiff and heavy? This dashing modern version in a rich navy blue weighs astonishingly little and drapes most elegantly. The length lends versatility – it’s great over a jacket but equally appropriate with a sweater and casual pants.

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI coat, $9,150, jacket, $3,895, pants, $750, and pocket square, $225. h

TO SEE OUR VIDEO ABOUT BRUNELLO CUCINELLI COATS, please go to

www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14

82 HARRY

BURBERRY BRIT A removable shearling collar adds extra interest to a nylon jacket, lightly filled with down – a great piece for a chilly fall morning. The cotton flannel shirt features an exploded, monochromatic version of the famous Burberry check.

BURBERRY BRIT coat, $1,420, shirt, $325, and pants, $215. h

TO SEE OUR VIDEO ABOUT BURBERRY BRIT COATS, please go to

www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14

FALL/WINTER 2014 83

PYA From the first full collection by Torontobased PYA’s designer, Patrick Assaraf, comes a three-button jacket in navy brushed wool. The double-faced fabric has a blue check back, visible inside the half-lined jacket and under the collar, and enough weight to let the piece double as a coat in early fall.

PYA BLACK LABEL jacket, $698; ETON shirt, $275; BRAX pants, $225.

84 HARRY

PAUL & SHARK The heavy-gauge zipper on this classic navy woollen sweater looks almost like a piece of jewellery. The vest (also available in navy) is quilted with a top-quality down-and-feather mix and has a removable hood.

PAUL & SHARK vest, $775, knit, $875, shirt, $295, and pants, $325.

FALL/WINTER 2014 85

POLO RALPH LAUREN Inspired by vintage bomber jackets, Polo Ralph Lauren’s Farrington bomber is made in unwashed, softly burnished calf leather – exceptionally soft to the touch. Wear it with top-quality Japanese selvage denims and a grey cashmere sweater.

POLO RALPH LAUREN leather bomber, $1,098, knit, $198, shirt, $98, and pants, $225. h

TO SEE OUR VIDEO ABOUT POLO RALPH LAUREN COATS, please go to

www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14

86 HARRY

BOSS Deceptive… A charcoal BOSS jacket that looks fully tailored but is actually unstructured and unlined. Soft, casual and extremely comfortable, it’s the perfect way to complete a layered look.

BOSS jacket, $750; MICHAEL KORS hooded sweatshirt, $295; PYA BLACK LABEL henley, $95; AG pants,$260.

FALL/WINTER 2014 87

BOSS and MICHAEL KORS BOSS presents a trim, down-filled vest that’s versatile enough to wear over a suit or a sweater and is ideal for travel. It’s also reversible: on one side, a grey herringbone wool blend with leather piping, on the other, quilted black nylon. A mixed-media wool-and-nylon “shirt jacket” from Michael Kors ticks all the fashionable boxes with diamond quilting and a removable gilet.

BOSS vest, $595, and shirt, $205; MICHAEL KORS knit, $295; BRAX pants, $225.

MICHAEL KORS shirt jacket, $495; PYA BLACK LABEL cardigan, $345; BUGATCHI shirt, $180; DL pants, $218.

88 HARRY

Designers are crafting premium boots these days, exploring the points where the elegant sophistication of a gentleman’s boot meets more rugged, masculine details. Clockwise from top left, JOHN VARVATOS STAR USA offers a side-zip, lace-up brogue in grey suede, $350; BOSS presents a side-zip, fur-lined boot in pebble-grain leather, $625; BOSS’s sneaker-sole hybrid is deliberately rough around the edges, $395; COLE HAAN’s crisper brogue boot features the exceptionally comfortable Lunar sneaker sole, $320; MODERN VINTAGE’s dress boot is felt-lined and made in Italy, $375; TO BOOT NEW YORK’s lace-up in richly hued, butter-soft leather (centre) is also made in Italy, $495.

FALL/WINTER 2014 89

FOGO ZITA COBB WAS BORN AND RAISED ON FOGO ISLAND. SHE LEFT HOME FOR UNIVERSITY AT 16, ENDED UP AS CFO OF A FIBRE-OPTICS COMPANY AND RETIRED AT 42, WITH MORE MONEY THAN SHE KNEW WHAT TO DO WITH. THEN SHE DID SOMETHING EXTRAORDINARY. SHE WENT BACK TO FOGO ISLAND. Though the

lonely rock in the ocean had a 400-year-old cultural history, its scattered, isolated outports seemed doomed when the cod fishery died in the 1990s. At first, Cobb proposed setting up university scholarships for the island’s youth, until a local woman pointed out she was merely paying young people to leave. Cobb devised a new plan to reinvigorate the unique but fastdisappearing culture in the island’s traditionally

International designers collaborated with local craftspeople and artists to create all the furniture and fabrics in the inn. Some pieces seem traditional, others contemporary; they all use local materials and sustain the local cultural vernacular. This page, clockwise from top right, unique quilts are handmade by 25 local quilters; a traditional armchair designed by Ineke Hans; figurative elements on a hooked mat illustrate Fogo Island’s “seven seasons”; the inn reminds some of an ocean-going ship.

90 HARRY

self-reliant communities. Using $35 million of her own, with a further $9 million each from the provincial and federal governments, she created the Shorefast Foundation to promote local arts and crafts and to micro-finance initiatives; she founded Fogo Island Arts, building idiosyncratic studios where international artists could come to work; then she built the Fogo Island Inn as a hub, an employer, a gallery and an attraction for artists and tourists. Designed by Newfoundland-born, Norway-based architect Todd Saunders, the structure has a most dramatic beauty – and a uniquely local charm. Find out more at www.fogoislandinn.ca.

PHOTOGRAPHY, ALEX FRADKIN, BOB HAMBLY, STEFFEN JAGGENBERG, CHRIS NICHOLLS

Centuries of geographic isolation left the Fogo islanders brilliantly adept at making things by hand, recycling and working with the scant local materials. The snake cushion is a traditional design, knitted by hand using the tiniest scraps of yarn. Below, the inn’s library.

Above, the convenience of a fishing stage for cleaning and curing cod. Far right, traditional Newfoundland architecture “sits lightly on the land,” with fishing stages built on wooden stilt legs, not fixed foundations. Right, icebergs drift by on the Labrador current.

FALL/WINTER 2014 91

A STUDY IN SOPHISTICATION LOOK CLOSELY AT THE NEW SEASON’S SUITS AND JACKETS. WE THINK YOU’LL LIKE WHAT YOU SEE. Patterns reference

English traditions of the past – herringbone, houndstooth, glen check, windowpane – but with understated sophistication. Colours explore a rich and varied palette with subtlety and discretion.

But the real story concerns texture.

Appearances can be deceptive. Soft and luxurious to the eye, with a milled finish like the substantial flannels of old, these modern fabrics are unexpectedly lightweight to the touch – supremely comfortable, whatever the season.

CANALI Soft shoulders and featherweight tailoring ensure exceptional comfort with this quarter-lined jacket in a pure-wool, charcoal-and-oxblood mélange. Details such as discreetly quilt-stitched elbow patches and surgeon’s cuffs (functioning buttons on the sleeves) provide further delight.

CANALI jacket, $1,698, shirt, $285, pants, $450, and tie, $150.

92 HARRY

BOSS The fabric of this suit exemplifies the new season’s love of subtle pattern – it has a discreet, tonal windowpane check on dark, inky blue flecked with grey to add visual richness. The finish has the soft look of flannel but none of its weight while the contemporary silhouette isn’t too trim, an ideal modern fit for almost any man.

BOSS suit, $1,350, shirt $185, and tie, $125.

FALL/WINTER 2014 93

Z ZEGNA With the rough ďŹ nish of boiled wool, this city coat works equally well over a suit or casual pants and a heavygauge sweater.

Z ZEGNA coat, $1,095, suit, $1,295, and shirt, $250. h

TO SEE OUR VIDEO ON THE PROPER FIT OF A SUIT, please go to

www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14

94 HARRY

J.P. TILFORD BY SAMUELSOHN A classic two-button sports jacket, fully lined, in mid-grey with a blue-andnavy check bridges your work and casual wardrobes.

J.P. TILFORD BY SAMUELSOHN jacket, $998; ETON shirt, $265.

FALL/WINTER 2014 95

CANALI Classic Canali, though with a slightly trimmer ďŹ t, this suit showcases a small, subtle check in Bordeaux and blue on a mid-grey background.

CANALI suit, $1,998, and tie, $160. h

TO SEE OUR VIDEO ON WHAT LABEL SUITS YOU, please go to

www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14

96 HARRY

CANALI Finding the precise point between classic and contemporary, Canali gives this suit a slightly more natural shoulder without sacriďŹ cing its authority. The brushed wool fabric is in dark grey with a charcoal glen check and an oxblood overcheck.

CANALI suit, $2,198, shirt, $285, and tie, $150. h

TO SEE OUR VIDEO ON HOW TO CARE FOR A SUIT, please go to

www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14

FALL/WINTER 2014 97

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Tailored in grey flannel with a chocolate windowpane check, this sophisticated suit has a lighter, softer shoulder construction than most Zegna offerings. The tie is a new idea from Zegna – pure silk but with a matte finish that resembles wool.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA suit, $2,995, shirt, $375, and tie, $200.

98 HARRY

BOSS A jacket in a deep blue-and-grey houndstooth looks rich and warm but the fabric is unexpectedly lightweight, suitable for all but the hottest days.

BOSS jacket, $698, and shirt, $195; HILTL pants, $295.

FALL/WINTER 2014 99

ETRO Kean Etro’s fall 2014 collection pays tribute to traditional tailoring – his actual tailors accompanied the models down the runway at the fashion show.

Hence the full lining and classical construction of the jacket. The fabric, however, is less conventional - a dramatic glen check overlaid on an abstract green-and-plum-coloured fabric stamped with a unique white floral pattern. Meanwhile, Etro’s signature paisley pattern appears as a discreet waistband on the trousers.

ETRO overcoat, $2,050, jacket, $1,850, shirt, $298, pants, $550, and pocket square, $115. h

TO SEE OUR VIDEO ON HOW TO FOLD A POCKET SQUARE,

please go to www.harryrosen.com/videos-f14

100 HARRY

From top left, CANALI, $695; CHURCH’S, $550; TO BOOT NEW YORK, $375; SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, $655; HARRY ROSEN, $398; TOM FORD, $2,195.

Black bounces back as an essential colour in footwear this fall, matching its prominence in clothing. Dress shoes show less emphasis on ornamentation, more on texture such as leathers with pebble or caviar grain. Cap toes have overtaken wingtips in prominence and silhouettes are a touch more substantial than they were last season.

FALL/WINTER 2014 101

IN THE BLACK THINK OF IT AS THE PARABLE OF THE PRODIGAL SON. Suddenly, this season,

the world’s top designers opened their arms and welcomed back the colour black. Black does not disappear into the background: it stands out – most dramatically. Black is not dull. Different fabrics reflect light in different ways, so even wearing black on black offers extraordinary textural richness and contrast. Black is back.

RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL This very sharp lamb-leather biker jacket is lined with nylon filled with French duck down and has a luxurious lamb-shearling collar. Accordionquilted, leather-covered elastic panels down the back allow for ease of movement while moulding the jacket to your body. Asymmetrical pockets and a double-track zip add to the eye-catching appeal.

RALPH LAUREN BLACK LABEL coat, $3,498, and pants, $285.

102 HARRY

TOM FORD cocktail jacket, $8,995, turtleneck, $1,295, and pants, $1,495.

TOM FORD Nothing if not dramatic, Tom Ford’s latest eye-catching one-button cocktail jacket is tailored in an extraordinary black-on-black silk-blend fabric with raised velvet flocking in a floral pattern. Ford himself puts the complete look together with a black cashmere polo neck, formal tuxedo trousers and black patent-leather shoes. Perfect for the man who intends to be noticed.

FALL/WINTER 2014 103

MACKAGE bomber, $1,050; MICHAEL KORS knit, $175; HILTL pants, $265.

MACKAGE Harry Rosen worked with Mackage to create this great modern city parka. The hood is lined with black rabbit fur and ruffed with black coyote fur; like the gilet, it’s removable. Mackage now sources only the finest down for its coats, down with less weight but more fill power, providing exceptional warmth. Exclusive to Harry Rosen.

104 HARRY

BOSS GREEN The mixed-media sweater boasts a honeycomb nylon front and hood with sleeves, back and interior in a black cotton blend. Cool hardware and a cellphone pocket on the sleeve complete the look.

BOSS GREEN sweater, $445; PYA BLACK LABEL knit, $298; PAIGE cargo pants, $298.

FALL/WINTER 2014 105

VERSACE Here’s a slim, almost weightless motostyle jacket in black nylon with a light down fill. The stitching on the quilting follows a Greek meander pattern while elegant leather piping trims the cuffs, pockets and placket.

The black denim trousers also pay homage to motorcycling with zippered pockets, a very trim cut and contrasting, resin-coated denim panels on the thighs and sides.

VERSACE moto-jacket, $750, shirt, $475, and pants, $425.

106 HARRY

JOHN VARVATOS STAR USA coat, $698, hooded knit, $398, vest, $298, T-shirt, $88, and pants, $198.

JOHN VARVATOS STAR USA John Varvatos loves a layered look and cuts his jackets with enough room to allow it. This double-breasted coat in black wool has black leather trim on the pockets and cuffs and under the collar, embossed metal buttons and a burgundy lining. The designer layers it over a grey herringbone woollen vest, a very soft full-zip hooded cardigan in a grey mélange and one of his graphic T-shirts. Trousers in resin-coated black denim come with either a zip or button fly.

FALL/WINTER 2014 107

LANVIN jacket, $3,545, shirt, $765, and pants, $1,195.

LANVIN Lanvin’s moto-style jacket in gorgeously supple lamb leather has zippered cuffs on the forearms like a vintage motorcycle jacket and straps at the waist to cinch it to a body-tight fit. The pants, in heavy-gauge wool, are equally well accoutred, with zips from calf to ankle, articulated stitching at the knee and elastic to ensure a snug fit at the ankle.

108 HARRY

Clockwise from top left, VERSACE, $695; BOSS, $285; MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, $685; FILLING PIECES, $280; GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI, $1,150.

A pair of sneakers was just a pair of sneakers, back in the day. Modern designer sneakers are something else – collector’s items, fashion statements, even pieces of art, no longer limited to casual weekend wear. Men are having fun with them, enjoying the signature details of each designer.

FALL/WINTER 2014 109

Cities

Local expertise and information for the business traveller

Over the years we have gathered invaluable information about the Canadian cities where Harry Rosen has a store – Montreal, Ottawa, Toronto, Winnipeg, Calgary, Edmonton and Vancouver. Top local food writers recommend restaurants, hotels and other essential urban services and keep this data up-to-date. You can find their latest tips,

ST. JOHN’S Great place for a business lunch

together with our archives, at www.harryrosen.com. h Meanwhile, in this special issue that helps celebrate our 60th anniversary, we’d like to tip our hat to our friends on the east coast and show Canadians who live west of Newfoundland how much St. John’s and Fogo Island have to offer.

By Karl Wells

sampled. Fat Cat operates every night staff quietly and efficiently go about their except Monday and Wednesday. It’s open business in Edwardian (but not fussy) from 8 p.m. to 3 a.m., except Tuesday, Astute travellers have made Bianca’s their surroundings. Charles describes his cuisine when it’s open from 9 p.m. to 2 a.m. first choice for business lunching for over as Newfoundland Nordic. Locally foraged George St. at Water St., 709 739 5554, 20 years. The polite dining room is spacious, seasonings and berries enhance impressive www.fatcatbluesbar.com with tables far enough apart to afford a dishes like roasted duck breast with purée degree of privacy. Years of serving business of sea buckthorn berries and roasted Atlantic Great Newfoundland experience customers mean staff can anticipate the pear. Excellent wine pairings are virtually needs of corporate hosts and their guests. guaranteed from the best cellar in town. Î THE ROOMS Newfoundland architect Philip Pratt 95 Water St., 709 579 5800, Remarkable cuisine is the foundation of designed The Rooms to have the same www.raymondsrestaurant.com Bianca’s stellar reputation, and it continues effect on the St. John’s skyline as Sydney to fuel the restaurant’s popularity. Veal and Opera House had on that city’s horizon.

Great place to stay fresh seafood are favourites and the chefs In other words, it’s hard to miss in a crowd. treat vegetables with particular respect. I Î SHERATON HOTEL NEWFOUNDLAND What’s inside the mammoth structure – Queen Elizabeth II and other international recall lovingly prepared citrus-and-fennel meant to suggest traditional fishing rooms celebrities have happily put their heads purée. An excellent selection of wines is where fishermen stored property – is even down at the Sheraton Hotel Newfoundland available to complement your lunch. more enticing. The Rooms is a repository of 171 Water St., 709 726 9016, www.biancas.net while business professionals have made it Newfoundland and Labrador culture. But their inn of choice for decades. Location, Great place for drinks service and amenities set this iconic hostelry fear not, it’s as far from musty and boring as you can get. If you want to know who we Î BASHO LOUNGE apart. Built on a historic site once occupied are and what we’re about, this is the place Tak Ishiwata is the finest mixologist in by garrisoned Fort William (a British to visit. Allow yourself to be awestruck by St. John’s and has taught his bar staff well. citadel), the hotel’s rooms and suites progreat Newfoundland art. Marvel at artifacts The cocktail muddler (an implement used vide impressive views of St. John’s Harbour to express intense flavour from citrus, other and downtown neighbourhoods. If outdoors from a history that goes back to the Vikings.

9 Bonaventure Ave., 709 757 8000, www.therooms.ca fruits and herbs) is the most used tool at is inclement, you can nurse a coffee, or Basho, and that’s a good thing. Every something stronger, in the interior courtcocktail creation is lively with freshness yard filled with light, living trees and plants. Fine dining on Fogo Island and optimal taste. One citrusy libation, A dip in the indoor pool or time spent at Î FOGO ISLAND INN Chef Murray McDonald’s mission is to feed Sakenade Ginger, contains sake, vodka, the well-equipped fitness centre is always guests of the Fogo Island Inn as much locally lemon juice and fresh grated ginger. Feel good for body and soul. Concierge service sourced food as possible. It might be Fogo like something herbal? Your best bet would is outstanding. Dining facilities include Island cod (caught in giant cages to ensure be the Lotion, heady with the aromas of Oppidan, a full-service restaurant, and its quality), turbot landed that day from the cilantro, cucumber, gin and melon liqueur.

Bivver, the hotel’s circular cocktail lounge. vast ocean surrounding the island, or vege115 Cavendish Sq., 709 726 4980, Basho opens at 6 p.m. tables grown in its precious soil. He wants www.starwoodhotels.com 283 Duckworth St., 709 576 4600 visitors to leave Fogo Island not only with vivid memories of the land and sea, but also Great place for a business dinner Great place to hear live music with rich memories of the physical nourishÎ RAYMONDS Î FAT CAT BLUES BAR ment they yielded. Lunch might be Ocean in Chef Jeremy Charles and sommelier George Street is the beating heart of a Bowl, filled with shrimp, scallops, foraged Jeremy Bonia preside over Raymonds, downtown St. John’s. It has been dubbed seaweed and spoonfuls of broth delicately acknowledged by critics to be one of the “Canada’s Bourbon Street” because of its scented with smoked capelin. End the day finest restaurants in Canada. Established in 23 bars, pubs and nightclubs. Many offer with McDonald’s wonderful Caribou and 2010, the place bucked the post-recession live music. Fat Cat Blues Bar is one of the What it Eats – caribou served with wild bertrend toward pared-down casual dining oldest and most popular. Only the best ries, wild mushrooms, sorrel and wild celery. by adopting an Old World attitude in play Fat Cat. Acoustic blues is a staple, Joe Batt’s Arm, 855 268 9277, www.fogoislandinn.ca décor and service. Well-turned-out wait but other genres and styles can often be Î BIANCA’S

110 HARRY

FALL/WINTER 2014 111

ILLUSTRATION, KYLE METCALF

Services

At Harry Rosen, the fine print can help you out

style magazine is printed twice a year and is available online 24/7.

Our own recognition CANADA’S 50 BEST MANAGED COMPANIES PLATINUM CLUB

HARRY'S NOTES ON MEN’S STYLE

Go to www.harryrosen.com/ mens-style for weekly postings about new products and collections, events, advice, Ask Harry how-to videos and other areas of expertise.

Keep us informed as to your preferences CONTACT INFORMATION

LIFETIME MAINTENANCE GUARANTEE

We want to ensure that you look and feel your best in every garment you purchase from us. That’s why we provide complimentary maintenance and repairs to you, the original owner, for the lifetime of each tailored garment. If you ever find yourself in need of having a button replaced, a seam fixed or other minor repairs, simply bring the item into any of our stores, where professional tailors will attend to it as soon as possible (let us know if you’re in a hurry), on-site and free of charge. What’s more, should your garment require alterations due to weight loss or — heaven forbid — weight gain, we will make the necessary adjustments for you to a maximum of one size up or down, also at no charge. Health regulations require that you have the garment dry-cleaned before bringing it in for either of these services.

112

HARRY

ULTIMATE RETURN POLICY

If one of our garments fails to live up to reasonable expectations, please bring it back.

Whether it requires a refund, replacement or repair, we’ll happily do whatever is needed to give satisfaction.

SHOP BY APPOINTMENT

For your convenience, a clothing advisor can preselect items, even an entire wardrobe, and have them ready for your consideration.

EMERGENCY SERVICES

Call us and we’ll immediately resolve issues such as missing buttons, replacing a shirt, last-minute alterations, et cetera.

we’ve provided outstanding service in every respect.

SHOP ONLINE OR IN-STORE

We offer an array of the best merchandise online at www.harryrosen.com.

New designers and exclusive online offers are just part of the mix. Now you can start by looking online for an item you need, then either find it at the store or order it online. You can also send an e-mail about the item to your clothing advisor, or check online for your advisor’s hours.

We endeavour to keep you informed ADVANCE NOTICE OF SALES &

ALTERATIONS

EVENTS TO OUR CUSTOMERS

Our on-site tailors provide world-class alteration services free of charge on regular-priced items.

Alteration charges on sale merchandise are waived for customers in the Silver or higher tiers of our Sartoria Recognition Program.

To give you greater shopping opportunities, you’ll be notified before the general public.

SATISFACTION FOLLOW-UP

After every purchase we’ll contact you to offer any additional assistance you may require and to ensure that

ASK HARRY

FOLLOW US

Harry’s Sartoria Recognition Program This program is our way of ensuring that every one of our customers, from the occasional shopper to the most loyal client, is perpetually re-inspired by our providing the most rewarding, most personal menswear experience in Canada. As with many recognition programs, it acknowledges different customer purchase levels through the use of Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum or Platinum Elite tiers. Each tier provides a menu of above-and-beyond services and introduces a layer of unforeseen benefits provided by our associates that reinforce our commitment to caring for your investment in your wardrobe.

You can review the Sartoria Recognition Program at your convenience online at www.harryrosen.com.

While our clothing advisors provide impressive expertise on all sartorial matters, you can also Ask Harry online and we’ll respond at www.harryrosen.com.

HARRY MAGAZINE

Our substantial and internationally respected men’s

h

FOR AN INTRODUCTION TO OUR STORES, OUR PHILOSOPHY AND OUR SERVICES,

please go to the Customer Journey at www.harryrosen.com.

PHOTOGRAPHY, TOM ARBAN

Harry Rosen provides a menu of above-andbeyond services

Please notify us at the store or at harry@harryrosen.com of any change in your e-mail address, telephone number or mailing address, and we’ll update your file.

In 1993, Deloitte established the Canada’s Best Managed Companies business awards program, recognizing excellence in Canadian-owned and -managed companies with revenues over $10 million. Every year, hundreds of entrepreneurial companies compete for this designation in a rigorous and independent process that evaluates the calibre of their management abilities and practices.

Companies that win for six or more consecutive years receive the Platinum Club award. Harry Rosen is one such company.

Guide

Looking for a specific label? A favourite designer? You’ll find it below, together with our store directory.

Available at all Harry Rosen stores Adriano Goldschmied Denim Armani Collezioni BOSS Brax Bugatchi Burberry Brit Canada Goose Canali Citizens of Humanity Coppley Corneliani Dion Ermenegildo Zegna Ties Eton G-Lab Harry Rosen Made in Italy J.P. Tilford by Samuelsohn John Varvatos Star USA Mackage Maurizio Baldassari Michael Kors Paul & Shark Polo Ralph Lauren PYA Black Label Seven Jeans Alberto Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, First Canadian Place, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary CORE - TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Belstaff Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Yorkdale Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Vancouver Pacific Centre Brioni Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Brunello Cucinelli Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Yorkdale Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary CORE - TD Square Vancouver Pacific Centre Burberry London Toronto Yorkdale Vancouver Pacific Centre

Dolce & Gabbana Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary CORE - TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Ermenegildo Zegna Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, First Canadian Place, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary Chinook Centre, CORE - TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Etro Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary Chinook Centre, CORE - TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Giorgio Armani Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Yorkdale Vancouver Pacific Centre Hiltl Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, First Canadian Place, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Isaia Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Vancouver Pacific Centre John Varvatos Collection Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Yorkdale Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Vancouver Pacific Centre Kiton Toronto 82 Bloor Street West

Moncler Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Mississauga Square One, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Carrefour Laval, Les Cours Mont-Royal Winnipeg Polo Park Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary Chinook Centre, CORE - TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre

Z Zegna Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, First Canadian Place, Mississauga Square One, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal, Carrefour Laval Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary Chinook Centre, CORE - TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre

Ralph Lauren Black Label Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Yorkdale Vancouver Pacific Centre

Shoes Allen Edmonds Armani Brunello Cucinelli BOSS Canali Church’s Cole Haan Dolce & Gabbana Ermenegildo Zegna Filling Pieces Insolito Terra Jimmy Choo John Varvatos Maison Martin Margiela Modern Vintage Moncler New Balance Prada Salvatore Ferragamo Sperry To Boot New York Tod’s UGG Australia Versace Wolverine

Ralph Lauren Double RL Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Robert Graham Toronto Eaton Centre, Mississauga Square One, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Winnipeg Polo Park Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary Chinook Centre Tom Ford Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Calgary CORE - TD Square Versace Collection Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Mississauga Square One, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Carrefour Laval Winnipeg Polo Park Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary Chinook Centre Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre

All shoes not available at all stores. Please speak to one of our associates or visit www.harryrosen.com.

We try to keep everything in stock, but some merchandise in this book may not be in our stores at all times. If you have any questions, please contact your clothing advisor or store manager at any of the stores listed here. Prices may be subject to change without notice.

Harry Rosen Store Directory Toronto 82 Bloor Street West 416 972 0556 Eaton Centre 416 598 8885 First Canadian Place 416 981 9097 Mississauga Square One 905 896 1103 Sherway Gardens 416 620 6967 Yorkdale Shopping Centre 416 787 4231 Ottawa Rideau Centre 613 230 7232 Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal 514 284 3315 Carrefour Laval 450 688 4123 Winnipeg Polo Park Shopping Centre 204 786 2368 Edmonton West Edmonton Mall 780 444 1637 Calgary Chinook Centre 403 252 2848 CORE - TD Square 403 294 0992 Vancouver Oakridge Centre 604 266 1172 Pacific Centre 604 683 6861 If you enjoy receiving your copy of harry but have had a change of address, please advise us of your new mailing address by e-mail at harry@harryrosen.com or write to us at: Harry Rosen Inc. 77 Bloor Street West Suite 1600 Toronto, Ontario Canada M5S 1M2

Lanvin Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Loro Piana Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Vancouver Pacific Centre

FALL/WINTER 2014 113

The World of...

Edward Armah

Edward Armah moved to the U.S. in 2000, eventually finding work as a salesman at Neiman Marcus in New Jersey and Oxxford Clothes in Chicago. Customers admired the big, colourful bow ties he always wore (Armah cut and stitched them in his basement) and begged him to make some for them. When Jay Z, P. Diddy and André Benjamin began sporting the ties, orders snowballed. In 2009, he took the plunge, using his life savings to create his own, eponymous company.

“My first collection was inspired by butterflies. The ties were reversible and came apart at the back so there were four different ways to tie them – like the four stages of a butterfly’s evolution.”

“These days a little tiny factory in Vermont makes all my bow ties, just the way I want: all cut and stitched by hand. I’m not making a bow tie for my father. I’m making a bow tie for my son and the next generation. I want them to understand why a bow tie is cool, not just for the geek or the pediatrician.”

“Sure, the Ghanaian sense of colour is a big influence.

Kente cloth is the oldest hand-loomed cloth in the world, with over 1,000 colours. Today, the colours are brighter. So if I want to put sea horses on a tie, why not make them neon purple?

Why not make a goldfish with sterling silver thread for its eyes, so they shine in the dark?”

114 HARRY

“What’s exciting about wearing a black or grey or navy suit? I totally believe that accessories make the suit. But when I saw that men didn’t want to learn how to fold a pocket square and have to adjust it all day long, I came up with the pocket circle.

It’s a game changer in menswear. There’s nothing you can do to mess it up.

No man wants to be called a square – so wear a pocket circle!”

“The idea behind my fabric boutonnieres goes back to the whole Elizabethan way of dressing. When I was in London I’d watch the gentlemen going out wearing an actual flower in their buttonhole, which is beautiful. Here in the United States, life is at a different pace so I asked myself how can I come up with a flower that does not die? I sewed the first ones using fabric remnants from my bow ties. The guy who’s already wearing one of my bow ties or one of my pocket circles isn’t going to be afraid to wear a boutonniere. He’s already crossed the line.

He’s converted.”

“We’re still a new company.

I haven’t had a vacation, no time out in the last four years.

I’m in the office till 10 o’clock at night then go to the gym and work out till midnight. I wind down by answering my e-mails from Italy where I’m working on some projects, get to sleep around three in the morning.

I am totally involved in every aspect of my company. There are only three of us, one of whom is my wife. It’s really personal and I hope it stays that way for a long time.”

“Who do I wear? I love Kiton, but my favourite brand right now is Isaia and my favourite sportswear is Brunello Cucinelli.”

ILLUSTRATION, ANTONY HARE

B

orn and raised in Ghana,