Harry Magazine Fall/Winter 2012

harry a magazine for men by harry rosen menswear

fall/winter 2012 $5.00

$5.00

seize the day

First we take Manhattan

wordS TO DRESS BY

harry The true New Yorker secretly believes that people living anywhere else have to be, in some sense, kidding.

— John Updike

contents fall/winter 2012

fashion 74 seize the day 100 upper class

features 48 Discreet Objects of Desire The latest luxuries

by Josh MacTate

56 Dressed To Kill

James Bond’s sartorial style

by Alec Scott

106 Down From The Mountain Moncler, 60 years on

by Dick Snyder

112 Canada’s Golfers

can conquer Cancer Time to play around

by Christopher Frey

DEpartments 27 Letter 30 Notebook 40 Ask Harry 114 Cities 117 Services 119 guide 120 the icon

photography, (main) chris nicholls; (inset) bob hambly

Canali coat, $1,798; Makins Hats fedora, $250; Salvatore Ferragamo scarf, $220. (right) photographer Chris Nicholls draws a bead on the Brooklyn Bridge.

Executive Publisher and CEO, harry rosen inc.

Larry Rosen Publisher Sandra Kennedy Editor James Chatto Art Directors Bob Hambly Barb Woolley Hambly & Woolley Inc. designers Barb woolley aaron rinas Miki Sciana Producer Lucie Turpin Production Manager Sonja Kloss

Contributors tom Arban Lesley Chesterman Anne DesBrisay Christopher Frey John Gilchrist Gail Hall Christine Hanlon Rebecca Holland Anna Kohn Jaclyn Law Josh MacTate Andrew Morrison Chris Nicholls Brian Sano Alec scott Marisa seguin Dick Snyder Jessica Wong

Executive Fashion Director Jeff Farbstein Fashion Directors paul E. Smith Shannon Stewart Advertising Sales Manager Judy Solway Phone 416 935 9202 Editorial Coordinators maria delorey Meghan Janssen Special Events and Public Relations Manager shauna Cook Phone 416 935 9226 Harry Rosen Inc. 77 Bloor Street West Suite 1600 Toronto, Ontario Canada M5S 1M2 Phone 416 935 9200

Hambly & Woolley Inc. design Communications 121 Logan Avenue Toronto, Ontario Canada M4M 2M9 Phone 416 504 2742 Cover Photography, chris nicholls; styling, Lee sullivan, plutino group; Grooming, Jamie Hanson, lang management Copyright 2012 Harry Rosen Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibility for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials.

At harry rosen, we hold your personal information in strictest confidence, In full accordance with provincial privacy guidelines. for further details, access www.harryrosen.com. to opt out of further communications, e-mail us at notices@harryrosen.com or contact our privacy officer at 416 935 9221 or e-mail privacy@harryrosen.com.

No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers.

Colour separations and printing provided by Transcontinental O’Keefe Toronto.

Volume 16, Issue 2 Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement 40051686 CANADIAN POSTMASTER Send address change notices and undeliverable copies to: Harry Rosen Inc. 77 Bloor Street West Suite 1600 Toronto, Ontario Canada M5S 1M2 For a change in address, please write or e-mail us at:

Harry Rosen Inc. 77 Bloor Street West Suite 1600 Toronto, Ontario Canada M5S 1M2 E-mail harry@harryrosen.com Harry magazine is printed on paper from wellmanaged forests, contains 10 percent post-consumer content and is chlorineand acid-free. Our polybags use 25 percent recycled plastic.

harry

letter

It’s hard for me to believe

The launch of the Giorgio Armani Couture collection at our Bloor Street store in March saw a splendid performance by singersongwriter Stephan Moccio (centre). Also in attendance were Gerry Fedak, EVP of Giorgio Armani (left), and Larry Rosen.

that harry magazine has only been around for 15 years! It’s such an essential part of the way we communicate with our customers. And communication – listening, understanding, remembering, advising – has always been an essential part of our business. Fifty-eight years ago, when Harry and Lou opened the first store on Parliament Street in the east end of downtown Toronto, they kept in touch with their customers by telephone and kept each client’s details on handwritten cards. Today, we still place our emphasis on engaging personally with our customers; at the same time, we’re keeping up with the ceaseless evolution of communications technology – through Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, e-mail, SMS and our new website. You can get fashion information, check out merchandise, shop online and make appointments with your regular sales associate; we can also e-mail you pictures of merchandise to view on your smartphone, tablet or computer.

And change is constantly accelerating – something I find exciting and inspiring.

Where will we be five years from now? Don’t be surprised if your sales associate is able to send you a moving, three-dimensional advanced digital projection of your personal avatar wearing an outfit for your consideration. Speculative fiction? I don’t think so. I think it’s the future.

Outlandish devices and cool gadgets have always been a trademark of the James Bond movies – one reason why I’ve been a lifelong fan of the series – ever since Dr. No was released 50 years ago. Our story on page 56 takes a detailed look at 007’s sartorial evolution, his tailors and his tuxedos. We also feature a celebration of the iconic European outerwear company Moncler, which is turning 60 this year.

Canadians take a keen interest in unique and effective winter coats – for obvious reasons. Moncler has a storied past that I think you’ll find illuminating. More importantly, perhaps, it has a very active vision of the future. That’s something we at Harry Rosen share.

In May, also at Bloor Street, we held an event where young business people heard a panel of leading entrepreneurs discuss their starts in business. Taking part were (left to right) Larry Rosen, Paul Allamby, EVP of Havas, Robert Deluce, president of Porter Airlines Inc., Dave Hamilton, partner at Grip Ltd., Julian Brass, founder of Notable.ca, Keith Farlinger, CEO of BDO Canada, and Cam Heaps, co-founder of Steam Whistle Brewing.

Larry Rosen, chairman and ceo harry rosen inc.

fall/winter 2012

27

harry

notebook

Sharing information; tracking the new and noteworthy

BODY HEAT Is Paul & Shark’s smart new stadium jacket warm? Decidedly so, thanks to a battery-powered heating coil built into

the hooded jacket’s back. Developed for wearing on the cold terraces of European soccer stadiums, it comes with its own inflatable cushion and an inner pocket big enough to accommodate an iPad. And the rechargeable battery pack can also be used to power up your phone. Made from high-tech quilted black nylon, the jacket is surprisingly lightweight – a perfect weekend coat, whether or not you choose to take in a game. $1,395.

30

harry



photography, brian sano; styling, dee connolly

PAISLEY RESURGENT



(left to right) Sand, $275; Etro, $375; Etro, $375; Poggianti, $250; Sand, $225; Poggianti, $250.

The paisley pattern is instantly recognizable, even if its

significance may be forgotten. Its origins lie in Persia, 2,000 years ago, where it was known as boteh, a Zoroastrian symbol of life, used for royal robes. It reached Europe in the 1600s via India, popularized as a pattern to ward off evil and taken up by the weavers of the Scottish town of Paisley. Hippies found it groovy in the 1960s – Fender even produced Telecaster guitars

in a pink paisley pattern – and now it’s back in a colourful spasm of fashion, used this season on silk ties and especially sport shirts. Sand, Etro and Poggianti have made much of the familiar design, working with an extended palette from bright purples and blues through more muted tones to bold black and white. Wear these shirts with pride – you’re sporting the livery of Persia’s ancient Sassanid kings.

fall/winter 2012

31

notebook

JOHN SMEDLEY DOES IT AGAIN

 This season we are delighted

to present more exceptional merchandise from John Smedley, the renowned, 80-year-old British knitwear company: versatile, ultrafine sweaters made in 30-gauge merino wool. Lustrous and durable, they are lightweight enough to layer with a shirt and sports jacket, and available in a broad range of colours. $275.

JOHN VARVATOS COLLECTION We’ve carried John Varvatos’s Star USA collection for several years. Now we bring you John Varvatos

Collection, the pinnacle of a brand that unites old-world craftsmanship and refined tailoring with innovative textiles and a rock ’n’ roll sensibility. Who better to describe it than the designer himself? “The spirit of my brand has always been about a contemporary attitude that does not forsake an appreciation for tradition, quality and craft,” says Varvatos. “For this fall/winter 2012 collection, inspiration came from the city of New York, with its seamless juxtaposition of the old and the new: a place where Central Park and the Guggenheim, the Chrysler building and the Statue of Liberty melt into one, creating a unique urban texture. The collection expresses the same connection between old-school savoir faire and a contemporary way of being, all condensed in a precise, timeless message.”

Available at our 82 Bloor Street West and Eaton Centre stores in Toronto, at our Les Cours Mont-Royal store in Montreal and at our Pacific Centre store in Vancouver.

32

harry



photography, brian sano; styling, dee connolly

TONAL EXPRESSIONS

Ermenegildo Zegna shirt, $365, and tie, $185.

Canali shirt, $255, and tie, $150.

Eton shirt, $275; Canali tie, $150.

J.P. Tilford shirt, $195; Ermenegildo Zegna tie, $185.

Eton shirt, $265; Canali tie, $160.

Canali shirt, $285, and tie, $150.

Ermenegildo Zegna shirt, $345, and tie, $185.

Ermenegildo Zegna shirt, $365, and tie, $185.

J.P. Tilford shirt, $185; Eton tie, $125.

Ermenegildo Zegna shirt, $345; Boss Black tie, $115.

J.P. Tilford shirt, $195; Canali tie, $160.

Canali shirt, $255; Ermenegildo Zegna tie, $185.

Nothing refreshes a beloved suit better than a new shirt and tie. This season brings a number of colour stories

with many shades of purple and lavender, warm greys, cool blues and countless variations of merlot. Ties show rich, dark hues, with stripes and fine neat patterns vying for popularity; shirts run the gamut from bold stripes to discreet checks.

Co-ordination is a breeze.

fall/winter 2012

33

notebook

ALL ZEGNA, ALL THE TIME

 DOUBLE RL



With his Double RL brand, Ralph Lauren

departs from the East Coast preppy and classic European models. Instead, he finds inspiration in the American West – specifically, his own working ranch in Colorado. With extreme attention to detail, Double RL consciously aims for iconic status with its collection of denims, chinos, workshirts, sweaters, outerwear and accessories. Harry Rosen is proud to be the only place in Canada where Double RL can be found – exclusively at our 82 Bloor Street West store in Toronto.

HARRY’S TORONTO UPGRADES Harry Rosen’s presence in Toronto is stronger than ever after bold upgrades

Back in the day, Harry Rosen was one of the first to bring Zegna’s

ready-to-wear collection to North America, and we have been big supporters of the Zegna family’s mission ever since. Over the years, we’ve created many Zegna shop-in-shops in our stores, but the ultimate expression of our relationship came in 1998, when we opened a free-standing Ermenegildo Zegna store across from our Harry Rosen Pacific Centre flagship in Vancouver. It was the only way to showcase the full glory of the collection!

In time for fall, that store has been totally reinvented to reflect the very latest expression of the iconic brand. Check it out and you’ll find expanded selections of shoes and accessories, sportswear, tailored clothing and all things Zegna.

34

harry

to two of our stores. Ever since we opened our First Canadian Place store seven years ago, the pressure to enlarge it has been intense.

This summer, we dramatically expanded our upper level to bring in all our modern collections, adding a larger area for made to measure and a major new section devoted to dress shirts. Now our Bay Street customers have more choice than ever.

Our revered store designer, Mark Teixiera, has also been busy at the Toronto Eaton Centre.

Moving to a prime, second-level location at the Centre’s southeast corner, the Harry Rosen store has almost doubled in size, with expanded acreage for shoes, furnishings, tailored clothing, sportswear and denim, a private made-to-measure room and a spectacular new area housing all our designer fashion. Please drop by both locations to see what we’ve done.



PATTERNS OF THE PAST Classic British fabric patterns have made a dramatic

comeback this season, finding global favour after decades of benign neglect. Originating in remote communities in the British Isles, where local wool was dyed with local plants and woven on looms in lonely crofts, herringbone and houndstooth, District checks and Glenurquhart check (better known here as Glen plaid) now grace the fashion runways of the menswear world, borrowed for sports jackets and flat caps, shirts and ties, exploded onto sweaters and scarves, even printed onto nylon parkas.

Houndstooth is a bold weave of jaggedly distorted checks said to resemble a dog’s teeth. Herringbone looks more like a fish’s skeleton with diagonal threads slanting down to the left and



right. Glen plaid, with its pattern of large and small checks, comes from the valley of Glenurquhart in Inverness, Scotland.

First used in the 1800s by the Countess of Seafield to outfit her gamekeepers, it was popularized by the future Edward VIII when he was Prince of Wales. As such, it is one of the many checked patterns known as District checks, developed in 19th-century Scotland for the use of workers on the great estates and regimental officers while out of uniform.

These patterns can still be found in their natural state in the rural British Isles, equally popular with working men and the gentry; now we see them here, too, reinterpreted for Canada’s city streets. h

district checks

Glen plaid

Herringbone

photography, brian sano; styling, dee connolly

Houndstooth

fall/winter 2012

35

harry

ask harry

SOMETIMES EVEN THE MOST SARTORIALLY CONFIDENT MAN NEEDS AN EXPERT OPINION

Q A

You often say a sports jacket “pulls a casual look together.”

Can you be more specific?

Better yet, please allow us to illustrate the idea by showing you three outfits with and without a jacket. We hope you agree that the jacket improves the look and makes it seem more finished. Why should this be so? There’s really no mystery.

The jacket has slowly evolved over the centuries with the constant aim of enhancing and flattering a man’s physique. Like a military uniform, it is subtly designed to make him appear fitter and more masculine than he may really be, with broader shoulders and a trimmer waist, while discreetly camouflaging any convexity fore and aft. In other words, it makes him look more imposing – and that in turn gives him confidence. As does the know­ledge that the potentially untidy area where the shirt tucks into the trousers is safely concealed from view.

Look 1 Ermenegildo Zegna sports jacket, $2,195.

Look 2 Harry Rosen Made In Italy sports jacket, $698.

Look 3 Ermenegildo Zegna sports jacket, $1,995.

40

harry

Look 1

Casual

*

Throwing on a jacket smartens up the look and shows that you mean business.

Look 2

Look 3

Weekend

Dressy

*

*

A shirt and tie can look trim and neat. But a jacket moves you up from the mailroom to the boardroom.

photography, chris nicholls; styling, lee sullivan, Grooming, Laura Szucs, both Plutino Group

Sure, a good shirt can be stylish but the outfit still looks unfinished. A casual sports jacket dresses up a pair of jeans.

fall/winter 2012

41

ask harry

42

harry

What coat can I wear over a suit or sports jacket?

These days, you have a lot of options, but that wasn’t always the case. It used to be thought that the only coat you could wear over a suit was a conventional overcoat, reaching almost to the knee. It’s still the dressiest alternative – clean-cut and undeniably elegant – and continues to sell well to men who value a traditional look.

However, most modern city coats are a few inches shorter and many of them also feature additional details such as extra pockets (some with zips), removable zippered gilets and throat latches. They look great over a suit but are versatile enough to work beautifully with a soft jacket or even a sweater and a pair of corduroys.

Another alternative is a three-quarterlength coat. While it still covers your jacket it’s short enough to be comfortable when you’re driving your car. These coats also come with a variety of different fashion details and some of them are made in lightweight technical fabrics, which may also influence your decision.

And then there’s the town-meetscountry idea of wearing a parka, complete with hood, over a suit. No one would call this a boardroom look but it has found favour with men who want to make a fashion statement and have the confidence to be irreverent. And, of course, some parkas have more of a sophisticated urban air than others. Our Canada Goose parka made with Loro Piana’s natural wool Storm System fabric looks quite at home on city streets.

Look 1

Look 3

Corneliani coat, $1,650.

Canada Goose coat, $1,600.

Look 2

Look 4

Boss Black coat, $795.

Canali coat, $1,850.

Look 1 The modern citylength coat (this one is from Corneliani) offers practical details such as a zippered gilet and a throat latch.

Photography, tk

Q A

Look 3 Look 2

Look 4 Canali suggests a classic length and a classic look – as elegant as ever.

photography, chris nicholls; styling, lee sullivan, Grooming, Laura Szucs, both Plutino Group

Action man!

Boss Black proposes a more casual option with military-style epaulettes. The coat is long enough to cover a contemporary suit jacket.

An urban take on the rugged Canada Goose parka – that fur collar is removable.

fall/winter 2012

43

O

ur definition of luxury has changed in recent years. It’s no longer about ostentation or the cachet of a famous label for its own sake. These days, it’s more a matter of impeccable craftsmanship and long-lasting quality. Which isn’t to say that rare and precious furs, fabrics and leathers aren’t also part of the story. We find pleasure in something that is beautifully made from the finest materials, but it must also serve a practical purpose – perfectly. Here is a small selection of deluxe accoutrements for the coming season.

By Josh MacTate

Brunello Cucinelli navy sweater

Think of it as the cardigan apotheosis – Brunello Cucinelli’s chunky, hip-length, hooded, navy blue sweater may be made of cashmere but it’s water-resistant and intended to be worn as outerwear. The brown nylon lining feels almost like silk to the touch and, for extra warmth, it’s quilted with 26 grams of down feathers.

Ultimate luxury hand in hand with practicality takes you from fall into winter. $3,995.

Loro Piana Blue cardigan

A warm indulgence for a fall day, Loro Piana’s handmade blue cashmere cardigan has pocket flaps and piping in matching blue suede. It’s a cozy alternative to a jacket.

The nutria-fur collar is removable. $3,095.

offset by perfect Norwegian double-stitching. A strap and buckle allow you to tighten the boot above the ankle.

Also available as a Chelsea boot and a high-sided lace-up shoe. $1,995.

Paul Leinburd Fur aviator hats

Crown Cap had been manufacturing durable farmers’ work caps in Winnipeg, Manitoba, for over 50 years when Paul Leinburd acquired the company in 1987. His notion of combining the old-world skills of Crown Cap’s hatters with luxury furs and leathers has generated worldwide enthusiasm. These Russian-style aviator hats in sheared beaver fur (left, $695) or muskrat fur (right, $525) help explain why. Incredibly soft and warm, with earflaps that can be fastened up or down with leather thongs, they offer suave defiance to even a prairie winter.

Ralph Lauren Buckle-strap boot

HARRY ROSEN

The number of artisanal Italian bootmakers capable of handcrafting superb footwear like this Ralph Lauren short riding boot is dwindling to a precious few. Made from the very finest hand-dyed and burnished baby calf leather, the plain mahogany upper has an extraordinary depth and subtlety of colour,

Mink-lined gloves

Photography by Brian Sano, styling by Dee Connolly

48

harry

hers, TK; props, TK

Made in Italy, Harry Rosen’s own label black or brown calfskin gloves are everything a gentleman’s elegant city gloves should be. They are also exceptionally warm and a pleasure to put on and take off thanks to a discreet mink lining that goes all the way to the fingertips. $495.

hers, TK; props, TK

Discreet Objects of Desire

fall/winter 2012

49

Zegna Couture

Brioni

deerskin jacket

Cashmere overcoat

Seen from a distance, Ermenegildo Zegna Couture’s new three-quarter-length leather coat is a very handsome item, impeccably cut and a rich dark chocolate colour. Up close, the true beauty is revealed. The supple but sturdy leather is ultrafine deerskin and the lining is trimmed mink – amazingly soft and cozy.

What’s more, the lining is fully removable, so this coat can take you from autumn all the way through to spring. $14,995.

Brioni proves once again that classic elegance can come closest to perfection. This knee-length overcoat has a new sleeker cut with a peaked lapel that adds a dashing air.

The luxury is in the fabrication – premium cashmere in a dark grey shadow stripe that feels wonderfully soft and warm but weighs very little. $6,995.

Brunello Cucinelli suede jacket

leather travel bag

Here’s one piece of luggage you might not want to check at the airport. Made in Italy using dark-caramel Italian leather, Brunello Cucinelli’s rugged, versatile travel bag is ideal for a long-weekend trip. Wheels are barely visible and the metal handle telescopes out of sight when you don’t need it, hidden behind a zippered document pouch. Other bags pale in comparison; this one just looks better the more you use it. $5,295. h

hers, TK; props, TK

Some will murmur that suede is so impractical… Not this time. Brunello Cucinelli has created a one-and-a-halfbreasted quilted jacket in delightfully supple brown suede that also happens to be water-resistant. Car-coat length with a fashionably trim silhouette, the lightweight jacket is lined with down-filled nylon, keeping you warm when the temperature drops. $5,795.

Brunello Cucinelli

50

harry

fall/winter 2012

51

hers, TK; props, TK

DresseD to Kill

by Alec Scott

T

here are dinner jackets, and dinner jackets.” So says the smart and sexy Vesper Lynd (Eva Green) to James Bond (Daniel Craig), the spy who comes to love her, in the 2006 film Casino Royale. This, as she offers up a splendid gift: some plush Brioni formal wear for 007 to wear at a high-stakes poker game. In the casino, our man looks and plays sharp. The other male players in this memorable scene also wear (different) penguin suits, also conceived and executed

by Brioni – and the dramatic tension is augmented, not muted, by all the decorous dress, not to mention some poison slipped into Bond’s shaken-not-stirred. The villain, Le Chiffre, sports a shinier, longer tuxedo jacket than Bond, together with a black shirt and black bow tie, while he puffs away on his inhaler, and – just in case we’ve missed all the other cues that he’s something wicked – one eye leaks blood.

56

harry

photography, TK; styling, TK

Fifty years of James Bond movies: some fans remember the girls, others the gadgets. We concentrate on the clothes and the (almost) always impeccable sense of style of the world’s best-dressed spy.

fall/winter 2012

57

photography, Š epa/Corbis TK; styling, TK

there were six James Bonds in the madcap 1967 version of Casino Royale (played by David Niven, Peter Sellers and Ursula Andress, among others) and one Jimmy Bond (Woody Allen). Six actors have played Bond within the actual franchise – each of them exuding a different kind of savoir faire. _

001

Sean Connery 1962-1968 Wore a toupee in all seven of his Bond movies.

_

002

George lazenby 1969 Was Europe’s top male model when cast as Bond.

_

003

sean connery 1971 Six foot, two and two-fifths inches tall (in his youth) – the tallest Bond.

_

004

Roger Moore 1973-1985 Suffers from hoplophobia, a fear of firearms. How ironic.

_

005

Timothy Dalton 1987-1989

Was offered the role of James Bond four times before accepting. _

006

Pierce brosnan 1995-2002

Lightest Bond (GoldenEye, 164 lbs) and heaviest (Die Another Day, 211 lbs). _

007

Daniel Craig 2006-2012 Voted “Best Dressed Male”

by Esquire magazine in 2006.

58

harry

Casino Royale was Daniel Craig’s first Bond film, and Brioni’s last as the fictional spy’s tailor. For about a decade prior – through most of the Pierce Brosnan era – the Italian fashion house had been dressing Bond, neither paying nor being paid for its participation. (“We were chosen for our art, never for money,” Brioni’s Antonella de Simone once said.)

Since then, Tom Ford has been kitting out the secret agent and has designed four suits and one tuxedo for Bond to wear in the forthcoming film Skyfall (due out this fall).

Apart from steeling himself for the damage that would be done to his suits during the filming, how did Ford prepare to outfit James Bond? “Daniel has been a customer in real life from the beginning,” Ford told harry, “and so it was not hard to imagine what would look good on him and what he would like. The suits are close to the body… classic, but chic.”

Ford’s suits for Craig are nearer, style-wise, to the mod, slim-fit, narrowcollared ones worn by the first James Bond, Sean Connery, than to those favoured by any of the intervening 007s. (The early thin, short ties and white pocket squares, positioned horizontally, are also back, though Craig wears his trousers well lower and snugger than Connery ever did.) The release of Skyfall comes 50 years after the first film, Dr. No, making the Bond films the longest-running movie franchise ever – and an anniversary-inspired exhibit of Bondiana is slated for the TIFF Bell Lightbox in Toronto this autumn (see sidebar, next page).

The man who put the “Bond, James Bond” pop-culture juggernaut in motion, the writer Ian Fleming, tended to describe carefully the flashy, or otherwise unusual, fashion and accessories of his bad guys, while he left Bond’s look less defined, simply making it clear that his dress was classic and appropriate (from an especially active British gentleman’s point of view) to each occasion. “His clothes are affluent and reflect an ability to travel,” was all that novelist Kingsley Amis could say of Bond’s sartorial style after a careful study of the books.

There are, to garble Lynd’s dictum, dinner jackets, dinner jackets and more dinner jackets in the Bond oeuvre.

The popular writer Fleming was sometimes known, ironically, as “the poet of things,” and enjoyed sketching in characters by surrounding them with brand-name products or dressing them in idiosyncratic outfits – Goldfinger’s absurd golf plus-fours or Dr. No’s Nehru jacket come to mind.

But his unwonted vagueness as to Bond’s clothes – as opposed to his specificity with the spy’s watch, drink or cars – allowed a succession of film costume designers, men’s fashion houses and bespoke tailors to have their way with the spy. With only a few miscues along the way – a baby-blue terry-cloth romper that Connery wears poolside, or George Lazenby’s infamous kilt and sporran, brought out, inexplicably, in a Swiss Alpine lodge – they have transformed the fictional spy into an influential style icon. In addition to helping keep black-tie (and even, sometimes, white-tie) dress alive throughout the slovenly ’60s and leisure-suited ’70s, Bond is widely credited with spurring the rise of the lightweight suit.

There are, to garble Lynd’s dictum, dinner jackets, dinner jackets and more dinner jackets in the Bond oeuvre. More than any ordinary man, Bond has frequent need of a tuxedo, as his life seems to take him – between pitched gunfights, martial arts contests and high-speed car chases – from a night at the opera to another at the casino, from a formal dinner at M’s London club, Blades, to a charitable benefit at some vast Latin American hacienda (Quantum of Solace).

The first time we see him – or rather Connery as him in Dr. No – is in

sean connery, © Bettmann/CORBIS. george lazenby, roger moore and timothy dalton, © Sunset Boulevard/Corbis. Pierce brosnan, © Keith Hamshere/Corbis

James BOnd: 50 years of leading men

Many were considered for the role of “Bond, James Bond” in the inaugural film, 1962’s Dr. No.

t

formal wear (a shawl-collared tux) at the swanky Mayfair club Les Ambassadeurs, dealing out a hand of chemin de fer while flirting with a fox in a one-shouldered red dress. But perhaps the most memorable appearance of a dinner jacket came at Goldfinger’s beginning, where Connery swims ashore in a wetsuit (and seagull hat), plants a bomb, then peels off the wetsuit to reveal a pristine white dinner jacket, pins it with a red carnation, and heads into a nightclub.

Through all the changes in the franchise – his boss, M, going from male to female, the gadgets transitioning from the machine age to the digital one, the disappearance of the hat as de rigueur – the dinner jacket has remained a constant. Lazenby’s shirt might have had more Carnaby-Streetinspired ruffles than Connery’s flat one; Roger Moore’s bow tie might have been floppier, more libertine (the ’70s), while Timothy Dalton’s was more severe; Pierce Brosnan’s pocket square might have overflowed its confines like a ripe brie (a symbol of Clinton-era excess?) – but they all had to wear a dinner jacket, and were judged by how well they pulled it off.

When Bond came on the scene, there were many suited heroes. In

60

harry

Britain, the dandiacal, umbrella-toting Mr. Steed of The Avengers made Bond seem positively down-to-earth in his fashion choices, a man of the people.

But soon, he’d become an endangered species: mortally threatened by the tank top Bruce Willis wears in Die Hard, or the leather jacket and fedora combo favoured by Harrison Ford’s Indiana Jones.

But the dinner jacket was never just a dinner jacket – it reflected a mood, an approach to life, one that saw it as ultimately more comic than tragic.

However high the body count. In an essay in a 1996 book about Bond’s fashion, Dressed to Kill, Jay McInerney gets it just right when he talks about his boyish hero worship of the spy: “Bond was urbanely cool: aside from being great-looking, as incarnated by Sean Connery, he was also witty and well-dressed and unflappable, the only movie hero we had ever seen whose first impulse, after killing a man, was to straighten his tie.”

Growing up, when I would visit my many English cousins, the boys would sometimes debate, often quite heat­ edly, who was the ultimate Bond.

Connery was generally the consensus view but, having recently reread a couple of the books, at this juncture

I’d have to go for Dalton or Craig.

With their ready willingness (and ability) to go dark, these two come closer to Fleming’s Bond.

But the critics railed loudly (and correctly) against Dalton’s look: some said he seemed, in his windbreaker, like an off-duty cop. It is, of course, overly safe to praise the reigning monarch, while criticizing bygone kings and queens, but Craig adeptly conveys Bond’s real penchant for brutal violence, that inner darkness, with, in other moments, a light touch.

He doesn’t twinkle as much as Connery, but he has charm. And Tom Ford knows what clothes will make this man, having dressed him superbly in the last film, lengthening but not denying the star’s musclebound figure.

Although she ultimately betrays him, Vesper Lynd is among the more savvy of the women who cross Bond’s path (the competition from Pussy Galore and Honeychile Rider isn’t steep). And she speaks sartorial sense when she says that for any given man there are dinner jackets and there are dinner jackets. I look forward to seeing the one Ford has put on my own favourite Bond, Daniel Craig, in Skyfall. h

© Bettmann/CORBIS

his one was too sophisticated, that one too much of a rube or too elderly or too junior to play the spy who is, always and forever, old enough to know his way around but still young enough to hold his own in a fight. Eventually director Terence Young settled on a rough, doubly tattooed but witty Scot, the former labourer, lifeguard and lorry driver Sean Connery. To class him up, Young reportedly took the actor to his own Savile Row tailor, Anthony Sinclair. Connery cleans up well, for there’s nothing the least bit scruffy about him when we first witness Bond, from the back, in a midnight blue tuxedo, dealing out cards at a posh London gambling club. A faithful reconstruction of that dinner jacket will serve as one featured element of this fall’s exhibit on the Bond mystique, Designing 007 – Fifty Years of Bond Style at the TIFF Bell Lightbox (October 26 to January 20). Apart from that, the exact contents of the clothing portion of the show remain a closely guarded secret. We’re hoping for some of the baggy, yachtclub-ready, double-breasted blazers and flared khakis that Roger Moore rocked or maybe the Hawaiian shirt in which Pierce Brosnan (improbably) seduced Halle Berry. For those who like a little bit of learning, TIFF’s artistic director, Noah Cowan, promises the show will be accompanied with curation emphasizing the “deep scholarly ideas about Bond’s impact and how Bond design has shaped the last 50 years.” The rest of us can simply bathe in the nostalgia – for Bond, for our own pasts – that such an exhibition promises.

Modern life is not simple.

It is rich, complex, layered and fully accessorized.

So is the way we dress.

Today’s man refers to the past without being ruled by it. He knows he must be versatile and adaptable, not limited to one role – or one look.

He demands practicality without sacrificing style.

He enjoys his accessories and being equipped for the moment – provided harmony is maintained.

When he dresses up at night, he chooses elegant sophistication over too casual or too cool.

New York City is one of his favourite playgrounds – a city of boundless confidence and limitless options. Some landmarks never change – Times Square, the Empire State Building, Brooklyn Bridge – but all around them New York is continuously reinventing itself, updating the past into something fresh, creating a new image out of innumerable details. It’s an attitude that’s reflected in the way we dress.

Live in the moment – be ready for anything.

Seize the day

Burberry brit coat, $1,250, cardigan, $525, shirt, $198, and jeans, $198.

fall/winter 2012

75

Photography by Chris Nicholls Styling by Lee Sullivan, Plutino Group Grooming by Jamie Hanson, Lang Management, and Laura Szucs, Plutino Group

The details catch the eye – a shirt in whiteand-merlot microcheck, a pocket square in merlot and blue, and a merlot tie held in place by a gunmetal tie bar, a pleasingly retro touch.

So well co-ordinated.

–– Z Zegna suit, $1,295, shirt, $295, and tie, $135.

76

harry

Canali suit, $1,898, shirt, $255, and tie, $160.

fall/winter 2012

77

Rich colours, soft textures, casual luxury...

Layer up for the fall with a knit between jacket and shirt; add a navy cashmere winter jacket for the great outdoors.

Accessories such as boots and a bag in supple brown leather complete the look. –– Brunello Cucinelli suit jacket, $3,995 (for full suit), half-zip knit, $995, shirt, $495, corduroy pants, $495, and pocket square, $165.

78

harry

Brunello Cucinelli coat, $5,995, boots, $1,095, and bag, $3,195.

fall/winter 2012

79

A splash of colour catches the eye but the scarf holds the attention – ostentatious, but in a good way. The value of a well-chosen accessory should not be overlooked.

–– Loro Piana coat, $5,995, cashmere sweater, $750, and scarf, $925.

80

harry

J.P. Tilford suit, $1,298; Canali shirt, $275; Ermenegildo Zegna tie, $185; Tumi briefcase, $695.

fall/winter 2012

81

Boss Black threepiece suit, $1,250, shirt, $195, tie, $115, pocket square, $45, and bag, $495.

Play the game. Etro’s jacket is a patchwork of mismatched plaids.

A boldly patterned shirt and an extravagantly colourful scarf equal pure self-expression.

–– Etro sports jacket, $1,450, shirt, $375, corduroy pants, $325, and scarf, $350.

fall/winter 2012

83

The jacket’s flecked grey wool has a comfortably retro look, like a subtle and well-worn tweed, but the cut and detailing are entirely contemporary.

––

club chair, $1,499. Courtesy the art shoppe. www.theartshoppe.com

Ermenegildo Zegna sports jacket, $2,095, shirt, $345, five-pocket pants, $350, and knit tie, $165.

84

harry

(left) Canali sports jacket, $1,450; John Smedley V-neck knit, $275; PYA Black Label shirt, $175; Alberto pants, $250; Ermenegildo Zegna tie, $165. (right) Canali sports jacket, $2,150, shirt, $255, and dress pants, $425; Autumn Cashmere knit, $350; Johnstons of Elgin scarf, $125.

fall/winter 2012

85

ThisJohn For is theVarvatos, year of the casual means cardigan, chunky sophisticaor tion – buttoned sleek, not too preppy, or zippered. not too street.

WearThe it like softa jacket, cotton indoors vest withor threeout.

–– quarter-length jersey sleeves is spray-dyed to (left) Varvatos lookJohn like fine corduroy. chunky-knit cardigan, $375, ––

and V-neck knit, $198; AG jeans, $280.

John Varvatos STAR USA vest, $250; Henley knit, Fred Perry (right) $175; Citizens of cardigan, $275, and T-shirt, $65; jeans, $235.

Humanity Citizens of Humanity jeans, $235.

86

harry

Armani Collezioni coat, $1,395, turtleneck, $375, and pants, $425.

fall/winter 2012

87

The velvet jacket is back – festive, elegant, not out of place in casual company but also a legitimate and self-confident alternative to a tuxedo.

–– (left) Canali velvet jacket, $1,298, and dress shirt, $245; Etro dress pants, $275; Dion bow tie, $75. (right) Boss Black velvet jacket, $698; Sand shirt, $225; AG jeans, $240; Z Zegna tie, $135.

88

harry

Tom Ford jacket, $4,395, shirt, $650, pants, $1,250, and bow tie, $255.

fall/winter 2012

89

RALPH LAUREN RLX bomber coat, $345, sweater, $250, and cargo pants, $150.

90

harry

(left) Michael Kors sports jacket, $598, V-neck knit, $145, shirt, $165, and corduroy pants, $165.

hers, TK; props, TK

(right) PYA Black Label cardigan, $345, and shirt, $175; Alberto pants, $250.

fall/winter 2012

91

Ermenegildo Zegna suit, $2,695, shirt, $345, and tie, $225.

Brioni’s brown-and-grey windowpane jacket has a silky lustre and an exceptionally soft, lightweight feel. It’s the perfect casual jacket for layering over a boldly patterned shirt and contrasting knit.

–– Brioni sports jacket, $4,995, sweater, $675, shirt, $395, and corduroy pants, $495.

fall/winter 2012

93

Belstaff jacket, $2,098, and pants, $475.

94

harry

From a distance it looks like wool in a traditional herringbone weave, but this Moncler jacket is totally modern, made of lightweight, quilted, printed nylon. –– Moncler hooded bomber, $1,650, sweater, $430, and toque, $195; Brax chinos, $225.

fall/winter 2012

95

The grey check and pale blue windowpane pattern could almost be a modern take on Glenurquhart check, but there’s nothing old-fashioned about the light weight of the fabric or the contemporary cut. J.P. Tilford by Samuelsohn continues to combine quality and modernity with a sense of the classic.

–– J.P. Tilford sports jacket, $998; Fred Perry sweater, $135; Citizens of Humanity corduroy pants, $240.

96

harry

Boss Black coat, $645, sports jacket, $698, shirt, $185, and tie, $125; Autumn Cashmere cardigan, $335.

Layers protect against the autumn cold – a shawl-collared sweater and a quilted black leather jacket from Milestone, the leather as soft and supple as butter.

–– Milestone quilted leather coat, $1,075; Fred Perry knit, $265; Brax five-pocket pants, $225.

(left) Parajumpers down vest, $490; Fred Perry knit, $255; Brax five-pocket pants, $225. (right) Boss Orange coat, $545; Fred Perry T-shirt, $55.

fall/winter 2012

99

harry style

upper class

BOSS Black, $495.

Photography by Brian Sano Styling by Dee Connolly

The old wisdom assures us that a second-rate pair of shoes can destroy the look of even the finest suit. The old wisdom is right.

Besides, a fine pair of shoes is a true work of art – lustrous, supple, long-lasting and supremely comfortable, protecting the points where our bodies constantly touch the world around us.

100

harry

(left to right) A. Testoni, $750; Harry Rosen, $395; Prada, $775; Canali, $595; Allen Edmonds, $375.

Wingtips

It looks like a bird’s wings, the way the leather of the toe cap extends back along the sides of the shoe, sometimes all the way to the heel.

Shoemakers call it a wingtip and often use this smooth, swooping, almost sculptural area as a canvas for elaborate stitching, perforations and other decorations. The possibilities are infinite. fall/winter 2012

101

harry style

(left to right) Salvatore Ferragamo, $2,295; Boss Black, $495; A. Testoni, $2,495; Salvatore Ferragamo, $1,595; Salvatore Ferragamo, $1,595.

Fashion Leathers

Which of these shoes is not genuine crocodile hide?

The second shoe from the left. In common with many shoemakers, Hugo Boss mimics the look and feel of crocodile with durable, elegant embossed calfskin (Boss calls it “stamp croc�).

Salvatore Ferragamo and A.Testoni, however, still prefer the real thing.

102

harry

(left to right) BOSS Black, $595; John Varvatos, $325; John Varvatos, $298; John Varvatos, $298.

Boots

Every boot once had a specific practical purpose that influenced its design – most often to do with sport, riding, hard work or warfare.

Time plus fashion equals evolution. Today’s boots can still be practical but men also value them for their looks. Which is hardly surprising. fall/winter 2012

103

106

harry

photography, TK; styling, TK

DOWN FROM THE MOUNTAIN Moncler turns 60 this year but the renowned company behind those uniquely glossy down-filled jackets seems younger than ever By Dick Snyder If the pressing style conundrum for the modern male is one of uniqueness – that is, “How do I look good and stand out from the crowd?” – then Moncler doesn’t just have a solution; it has a story. And it’s a good one. Good enough to attract Jackie Kennedy and Valentino back in the 1960s, hip enough to appeal to Madonna, Rihanna and Tom Cruise today. That story is the obsession of Moncler’s creative director and chairman, Remo Ruffini, who bought the company in 2003. He had an eye to rejuvenating and reclaiming a legend based around Alpine mountain expeditions, the French Olympic ski team,

Hollywood starlets and the best of swinging ’70s ski resort shenanigans.

Ruffini had run fashion companies before, but he lost interest when he determined the brands had no story to tell. “I realized I had to buy a company with something to link to the future. A story, a vision.” Nine years ago, he identified a contender. “I remembered Moncler from the time I was young – 15, 16, 17 – in the late 1970s. It was very popular, especially in Italy and France. In Milan, everyone had a Moncler jacket.”

North Americans are more likely to know Moncler from the ’80s and ’90s, for the shiny, wet look that made

fall/winter 2012

107

(clockwise from left) Jackie kennedy discovered Moncler in the 1960s; the Moncler image, 1959; the French Himalayan expedition in 1961; ever so stylish – the 1962-63 Moncler catalogue.

108

harry

Stitching on the famous label.

the coveted down jackets stand out among a crowded field of knockoffs. And while the brand’s current look is moving away from that reflective sheen – acknowledging that fashion does and must evolve – there’s no denying the statement Moncler’s contemporary jackets declaim. Bold, not for the faint of heart. Indeed, Moncler fans Brigitte Bardot and Victoria Beckham could never be described as diminutive personas.

The stars and the lore would be merely entertaining if it weren’t for a simple truth: the clothes are killer – striking to look at, luxurious to wear.

There are countless clothing labels that claim artistry, pedigree and rarity but too many fall victim to the whims of fashion. Or worse, they feed these whims in order to increase demand, to the detriment of their relevance.

Moncler cuts through all of this by telegraphing an unwavering devotion to the down jacket. Now celebrating its 60th year, the firm is re-establishing itself as a luxury label that is uncompromising, steadfast and visionary. There are precious few apparel companies that can lay claim to inventing an iconic item of clothing. That Moncler has managed to reinvent, reposition and help restore

Presentation of the Moncler FW2008 collection in Milan.

the desirability of the down jacket is where the story gets interesting.

It began in 1952 with a dedica-

tion to innovation and quality. With no pretensions to fashion greatness, Moncler was born from the simple need to keep cold-weather workers warm. The name (pronounced monclair) is an abbreviation of Monestierde-Clermont, a mountain village near Grenoble, France; the original product was a down-filled sleeping bag.

Famed French mountaineer Lionel Terray was the first to identify the potential of Moncler’s approach, and a specialty line of jackets, gloves and sleeping bags carried the “Moncler pour Lionel Terray” name in the brand’s first decade. Those early down-filled jackets helped conquer such peaks as Makalù and K2 in 1954, and Terray turned to the company again for his 1964 Alaska expedition.

Moncler was growing into a brand of stature and desirability but the international breakthrough came when the company dressed the French down­ hill ski team for the 1968 Grenoble Olympics. The French government granted only two companies permission to use the medieval national emblem of a cockerel on their logos –

Moncler and Rossignol, which provided the team’s skis. Stitched in the colours of the French flag, the cockerel still adorns Moncler jackets.

Riding the post-Olympic wave that fuelled the mid-1970s burst in snow-based tourism and related skiresort activities, Moncler became the de rigueur outerwear of the astute skier. “It was a huge boom in Italy, in Tokyo, in France,” remembers Ruffini. “I was young, I used my jacket with my motorcycle. But I remember the problem: it was very big, heavy and hot. I could use it only a few days in the winter. Expeditions needed this jacket at 7,000 metres, with temperatures below minus 20, 30, 40. But it didn’t go well in the town or the city.”

All this was in Ruffini’s mind when he bought the company in 2003 and later moved it to Milan. While remaining an emphatically loyal and enthusiastic devotee of Moncler’s French roots, he knew he had to reimagine the jacket, to turn it from cold-weather workhorse to threeseason urban sportswear. He did not wish to tamper with the style, he explains, “but it was important to really redesign the concept, the technology, the weight, softness… everything you need to travel and to be content.

Also, the jacket was not rainproof, not

fall/winter 2012

109

Madonna keeps warm in Moncler.

Mariah Carey and her husband, Nick Cannon, favour red.

waterproof. So I started from there, with the material and fabrics.”

Today, Ruffini’s almost fanatical focus on quality means every garment is manufactured entirely in Europe, using French goose down from the south of Brittany and the Perigord.

This appellation-guaranteed down is sorted to obtain only the duvet neuf, or “four-flake down,” which is credited with achieving Moncler’s 85-percent insulating power and unique lightness. A precise filling technique results in weights as low as 220 grams for a men’s jacket.

Manufacturing in Europe “is maybe not the best for price,” says Ruffini on a Skype call from his Milan headquarters. “But for the production – from the feather to the fabric – we try to make the best quality and the best product with the best price we can.” He acknowledges that his jackets are not attainable for everyone, with prices starting at $900, “but this is the best technology you can find in the market. I don’t care about price, I care about quality.”

And quality means longevity.

Ruffini’s jackets are not mere seasonal confections destined for annual replacement. “I have one from 2004,” he says. “I used it last weekend in the mountains. I was quite proud I don’t

110

harry

need to go to my store to get another one. I don’t use it every day, but it’s there in my mountain house after seven years and it’s there because I love it.”

No brand can afford to rest on its laurels and the last few years have seen Ruffini introducing some exciting new approaches. In 2008, the first summer-weight down jacket was successfully launched, inspired by the Italian yachting crowd. “In Portofino in June,” recalls Ruffini, “I saw people always wearing cashmere sweaters at night. I thought, why not make a very light down jacket you can put over your shoulders?” And haute fashion is also part of the story. In 2006, Moncler introduced a seasonal collection for women, followed by a men’s collection in 2009 featuring special limited-edition men’s jackets with even more aggressive urban attitude.

Ruffini says he’ll continue to work with international fashion designers on these artful interpretations, but will not be distracted from the core focus of the brand.

This fall’s collection includes a stunning herringbone down jacket that is something of an optical illusion. Up close, the herringbone pattern reveals itself as a printed nylon

Valentino Garavani looking glossy on the slopes.

of exceptional texture and vibrancy.

It’s a technical marvel, as is a new line of jackets made from a stretchy Japanese nylon that allows the signature Moncler Euro fit to achieve an even more pronounced svelteness while delivering supreme comfort.

Ruffini’s dream now is to work with the French Olympic team once again, to recreate the passion and excitement of that legendary ’60s-era frenzy for all things Alpine. “I’d love to do this in a unique way. I don’t want to copy other countries. I want to go when I’m ready with new technology and new style. I think ice skating is interesting to Moncler.

We have a lot of winter sports I would love to work with in the near future.”

In the meantime, Ruffini is happy to cultivate the brand as a status item of extreme functionality for the urban adventurer. He’s certainly found his sweet spot in this positioning, especially where the star set is concerned.

“On Mondays when I receive the magazines from the week, I always find two or three pictures of celebrities with Moncler jackets.” He explains that the company does not court celebrity endorsement by offering free garments. “They buy the jackets themselves,” he says proudly.

That’s the power of a great product – and a good story. h

Canada’s Golfers Can conquer Cancer Make a note of the date – July 25, 2013 – and be part of the action! Next year’s national initiative could set a new world record for a charity golf event – while offering golfers a uniquely enjoyable challenge

By Christopher Frey

112

harry

photography, TK; styling, TK

Ian Leggatt, PGA Tour winner and GTCC’s honorary chairman, takes a swing against cancer.

“ We had to make a difference as a company, in curing cancer.”

© Robert Cianflone/Getty Images Sport

It probably isn’t what the Scottish had in mind when they invented the game of golf: teams of four, each player limited to using four clubs rather than the usual 14, tasked with playing a shortened round no more than four hours long.

That, however, is the unique arithmetic behind Golf to Conquer Cancer, a Canada-wide fundraiser with Harry Rosen as the presenting sponsor, scheduled for July 25, 2013.

If organizers of GTCC reach their goal of attracting 20,000 golfers to play at over 200 courses across the country – private, public and resort – it promises to be the world’s largest charity golf event.

Cancer is now the leading cause of death among Canadians, having overtaken heart disease; every eight minutes, someone in Canada hears the words, “You have cancer.” But researchers believe that due to recent breakthroughs we’re on the cusp of a revolution in the way cancer is detected and treated. And many of those breakthroughs are happening here in Canada at the Campbell Family Cancer Research Institute in Toronto.

The institute is ranked among the top five cancer research centres in the world and will be the beneficiary of the tournament’s fundraising.

The novel and somewhat whim­ sical 4 player–4 club–4 hour format is an invention of Ian Leggatt, the PGA

— Larry Rosen

Tour winner, Sportsnet analyst and honorary chairman of GTCC. Organizers challenged Leggatt to devise a tournament with mass appeal, something that could be played in four hours and with enough of a strategic element to prove the equalizer between the low-handicap players and the duffers.

“The idea was to step beyond the normal scramble, best-ball format that’s done at most corporate charity events,” says Leggatt, “adding intrigue and excitement in a way that gets people to participate outside their normal round of golf. This four-club format is so different from anything you normally do. It creates a team perspective around the event, getting you outdoors with three of your pals to play a unique round of golf.”

If the event bears an ambitious name, with the premise that cancer can be beaten in our lifetime, it only reflects the tremendous strides now being made in research, particularly in the area of personalized therapies. Rapid advances in genetic sequencing, and its lowered cost, are allowing doctors to better match treatments to individual patients, thereby improving survival rates and limiting the side effects caused by invasive surgeries. Understanding the uniqueness of different cancers in different patients helps doctors to design tailor-made treatments.

For Harry Rosen, the cause is a natural fit, an extension of the company’s existing programs to raise money for cancer research and of its strong relationships with Toronto’s Princess Margaret Hospital Foundation and Vancouver General Hospital. Spurred on by years of awareness-building in national and local newspaper advertisements, the annual Harry’s Spring Run-Off has generated more than $3 million over the past seven years,

with the funds dedicated to prostate cancer prevention and treatment.

In large part, the company’s decision to focus the bulk of its charitable activities on cancer research resulted from the desire to have a greater impact on one area rather than spread its efforts too thin.

Larry Rosen, CEO and chairman of Harry Rosen Inc., says that through the 1990s, the company was doing the best it could to support an array of causes, but didn’t feel that in sum its efforts were making enough of a difference. So Rosen went back to his customers.

“We did some research,” he says.

“We asked our clients what they wanted us to do, what causes were important to them. Then it came back loud as a bell – the area they really wanted us to support was cancer research. Every one of them had been touched by cancer in some way. And at that time, in 2000, our CEO Bob Humphrey passed away from pancreatic cancer at the age of 53. We were very emotional and touched by this and realized, you know what, we had to make a difference as a company, in curing cancer.”

Though the event is still more than eight months away, Leggatt is happy to dispense advice about the 4-4-4 format. “Each person has four clubs – any four clubs they want. So I recommend that one of those is a putter. Everybody should carry a putter and then figure out the strengths of all four players on the team. Based on that, pick your three other clubs.

But everyone having a putter will be pretty important in shooting the best score you can that day.” h We encourage all our customers to support this unique event! For full details and to sign up with your foursome, please visit www.golftoconquercancer.ca

fall/winter 2012

113

harry

cities

Local expertise and information for the business traveller

We don’t normally advocate tearing pages out of this magazine, but you may find the following information useful if you’re travelling on business in Canada. We asked the country’s top food writers to provide their most current recommendations for restaurants, hotels and other essential data. In each issue of harry, we focus on a different city. This time it’s Edmonton.

Find out more about our cities at www.harryrosen.com.

By Lesley Chesterman (Montreal), Anne DesBrisay (Ottawa), James Chatto (Toronto), Christine Hanlon (Winnipeg), John Gilchrist (Calgary), Gail Hall (Edmonton) and Andrew Morrison (Vancouver)

edmonton Great place for a business lunch

Great place for a business dinner

Hottest hot spot

This heritage building, once a bank, is an ideal downtown location for your next business lunch. For ultimate privacy, old vaults are now private dining spaces or, for a warmer feel, fireplaces in the dining room and lounge add a contemporary touch for that next tête-à-tête. Chef Ron Korn’s steaks are always perfectly grilled and served with sides of your choosing.

Patrick and Doris Saurette’s new bistro showcases French-inspired cuisine, simply prepared with rich flavours, but not too heavy. Décor is elegant and contemporary with clean lines and subtle shades of white, taupe and black. Steak tartare, mussels, cassoulet or steak frites are just some of the offerings that pair well with wine or craft beers. An emphasis on great value means your appetite and pocketbook will both enjoy the culinary experience!

This Mexican street-food joint is just the ticket for lively atmosphere and authentic flavours. To start, imported cervezas, margaritas and house-made sangria pair well with freshly made guacamole and corn chips. Tacos, quesadillas and tortas come with a variety of meat and non-meat fillings while the fish tacos are sensational! Sit at a communal table and meet some new friends.

Everyone’s here for the food and fun.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House

9990 Jasper Ave., 780 990 0123, www.ruthschris.com

Great place for after-business drinks

The Bar at Zinc in the Art Gallery of Alberta

Located in one of Canada’s best new restaurants, the bar at Zinc is the hot spot for after-business bevies. It’s housed in the Art Gallery of Alberta, a vibrant part of Edmonton’s arts district. The décor is fittingly art in itself: a stunning 14-foot wall of Douglas fir, towering windows, a zinc ceiling and cobalt blue glass finishes. Pair your liquids with “by the bite” samples from Chef David Omar’s eclectic menu items made with locally sourced ingredients.

2 Sir Winston Churchill Sq., 780 392 2501, www.zincrestaurant.ca

The Marc

9940 – 106 St., 780 429 2828, www.themarc.ca

Great place to dine alone Tzin

Whether you’re at the bar or a table, this cozy and warm restaurant will ease the stress of the day. The décor of original brick, lush fabrics and lots of cushions is comfy enough to let you fully relax. Enjoy a meal of several tapas dishes from the Spanish Mediterranean menu. If you’re really hungry, the paella is one of the best anywhere and drink pairings are right on. Seating is limited, so reservations are essential.

10115 – 104 St., 780 428 8946, www.tzin.ca

Tres Carnales Taqueria

10119 – 100 A St., 780 429 0911, www.trescarnales.com

Great place to stay Delta Centre Suite

With room sizes ranging from 425 to 625 square feet and some with a separate bedroom, the Delta Centre Suite has options to suit your space needs. All rooms include a jetted tub, flatscreen TV, iPod docking station, cordless telephone, mini fridge, coffee maker, daily newspaper delivery and complimentary high-speed Internet. Fitness centre and dining services are also available.

It’s part of the Edmonton City Centre Mall and is conveniently connected to most of downtown through the pedway system.

10222 – 102 St., 780 429 3900, www.deltahotels.com

montreal

Ottawa

Great place for a business lunch

Great place for an after-office rendezvous

Though hardly a foodie mecca, Le Mas remains one of Montreal’s power restaurants. There’s history below this beamed ceiling.

In the place’s heyday, Mulroney was a regular and Mordecai Richler had his own table – and it still attracts the bigwigs. The room is far from chic, yet the draw here is delicious food and superb service. Opt for the fish soup, rib steak and a great bottle of Bordeaux.

1216 Bishop St., 514 861 6733, www.lemasdesoliviers.ca

Located in the heart of downtown, this converted tavern was first opened in 1927 and was a women-less zone until male-only taverns were outlawed in 1988.

Today, it’s run by some of the city’s best restaurateurs, who know how to craft a mean martini or classic cocktail.

There’s a tavern-style menu offered all day, and the afterhours scene is filled with biz people looking to unwind before heading home.

1243 Metcalfe St., 514 564 5056, www.dominiontavern.com

Le Mas des Oliviers

114

harry

Dominion Square Tavern

toronto

Great place for a business lunch

Great place for an after-office rendezvous

Great place for a business lunch

Great place for an after-office rendezvous

We still tend to say just “Domus” when referring to this famous Byward Market restaurant, despite the fair effort to rebrand it with its chef-owner in more of a marquee role. You can taste the careful vetting of purveyors on John Taylor’s daily menu. The accomplished cuisine is balanced with a notable wine list and with service that knows its business.

87 Murray St., 613 241 6007, www.domuscafe.ca

Named in honour of Sir Wilfrid Laurier’s wife, Zoé’s is an elegant, comfortable place, its handsome view, long bar and commodious armchairs in high demand with the after-something crowd seeking some privacy.

The bar knows its vintage cocktails and boasts good craft beer on tap, and the menu lists some undemanding grazing food.

Fairmont Château Laurier, 1 Rideau St., 613 241 1414, www.fairmont.com/laurier

One floor up in the TIFF Bell Lightbox building, Luma is a calm oasis of light-filled elegance – spacious, sophisticated and contemporary.

Chef Jason Bangerter’s cooking perfectly matches the mood, ranging from sandwiches and salads to steak frites and cleverly orchestrated seafood (scallops with tiny grilled artichokes and curls of cured ham are heavenly). Smooth service attends to every detail.

330 King St. W., 647 288 4715, www.oliverbonacini.com

Well-chosen wines and cask-conditioned ales are the draws for after-office refreshment at this cozy English-style gastropub. But Yorkville is a late-night neighbourhood and the bar stays open till 2:00 a.m. Outdoor patios and a quaintly furnished upstairs snug give seating options. The classic British food prompts many to stay for dinner.

121 Yorkville Ave., 647 348 1300, www.theoxley.com

John Taylor at Domus Café

Zoé’s Lounge

Luma

The Oxley

Great shopping

West Edmonton Mall (WEM)

WEM is a must-see on any trip to Edmonton.

After all, it is still the largest indoor mall in North America with more than 800 stores (including Harry Rosen) and services, 10 world-class attractions (including a waterpark and amusement park) and over 100 restaurants. WEM maintains the title of being the province’s number-one tourist attraction, garnering more revenue than the Rockies! Take your walking shoes (or buy some new ones when you are there) as this shopping experience covers over 48 city blocks.

8882 – 170 St., 780 444 5321 (guest services), www.wem.ca

Great place to hear live music Yardbird Suite

Since 1957, the Yardbird Suite has been Edmonton’s jazz venue, promoting live music from local, national and international talent. It has a casual club feel with concertquality performances.

11 Tommy Banks Way (corner of 102 St. & 86 Ave.), 780 432 0428, www.yardbirdsuite.com

Great florist

The Wild Orchid 10136 – 105 St., 780 425 2816, www.thewildorchid.ca

Great dry cleaners for a suit

The Press Gallery 9440 Jasper Ave., 780 425 0739, www.pressgallery.ca

Great limo service, car + driver

Edmonton Prestige Limousine 780 463 5000, www.edmontonprestigelimousine.com

calgary

winnipeg Great place for a business lunch

Great place for an after-office rendezvous

Great place for a business lunch

A power lunch worthy of its star chef’s pedigree is on the menu at this buzzing bistro, set in an iconic heritage building heralding Winnipeg’s historic business and finance district. Savour impeccable risotto, handrolled gnocchi and wood-fired pizza, orchestrated by Chef Darryl Crumb, a former Top Chef Canada competitor and protégé of super-chef Alain Ducasse. Choose quieter, lower-level seating.

177 Lombard Ave., 204 415 4112, www.brooklynnsbistro.ca

The professional yet relaxed service jibes with an hautecasual lounge menu spanning lobster poutine to mini Reubens. Housed in Winnipeg’s eco-forward showpiece – the Manitoba Hydro Building – Rudy’s claims the cutting edge, equipping servers with hand-held devices for order taking, and clientele with an app to request their favourite songs. Traditional leather couches amid wood-slat walls invite after-hours conversation.

375 Graham Ave., 204 421 9094, www.rudyseatanddrink.com

With its pillared, bankish ceilings, comfy banquettes and exquisite French-Italian cuisine, Teatro remains a classic lunch spot in downtown Calgary. From a simple steak frites or prime beef burger topped with appenzeller to Teatro’s signature lobster lasagna, chef John Michael MacNeil’s food jumps with flavour and sings with elegance. And you can’t beat the view of Olympic Plaza from the patio.

200 – 8 Ave. SE, 403 290 1012, www.teatro.ca

illustration, marisa seguin

Brooklynn’s Bistro

Rudy’s Eat & Drink

Teatro

vancouver Great place for an after-office rendezvous

Great place for a business lunch

Great place for an after-office rendezvous

Slip under the railroad tracks behind the Fairmont Palliser Hotel and slide into Buzzards, a Calgary tradition for over 30 years. With more than 250 beers available – including its own Buzzard Breath Ale – and a wide, sunny patio, Buzzards is a quick escape from the buzz of downtown.

With its respectable modern pub menu, Buzzards may tempt you to stay until well after rush hour.

140 – 10 Ave. SW, 403 264 6959, www.buzzards.ca

Located on the picturesque False Creek seawall and cheffed by the ever-expressive Lee Humphries, this fair double decker (with patio) still leads the city in elevating and educating our affections for local wines and sustainable seafood. Few Vancouver restaurants are as innovative on the plate, and fewer still are as classically versed in the art of accommodating business. During lunch service on a sunny day, none compares.

2 – 1600 Howe St., 604 681 1164, www.crestaurant.com

A Southeast Asian street-food and cocktail bar, this is the third and latest eatery owned by local designers Rob Edmonds and David Nicolay (their firm, Evoke ID, is also responsible for the modern, sexy looks of over a dozen other local restaurants).

Anticipate a young, professional crowd at rest, sipping bespoke “Banga” cocktails (served in Mason jars) and sharing exotic, often intensely flavoured small plates.

219 Union St., 604 568 3230, theunionbar.ca

Buzzards Restaurant & Bar

C Restaurant

The Union

fall/winter 2012

115

harry

services

At Harry Rosen the fine print can help you out

Our Lifetime Maintenance Guarantee

We want to ensure that you look and feel your best in every garment you purchase from us. That’s why we provide complimentary maintenance and repairs to you, the original owner, for the lifetime of the garment. If you ever find yourself in need of having a button replaced, a seam fixed or other minor repairs, simply bring the item to any one of our stores, where professional tailors will attend to it as soon as possible (let us know if you’re in a hurry), on-site and free of charge. What’s more, should your garment require alterations due to weight loss or – heaven forbid – weight gain, we will make the necessary adjustments for you to a maximum of one size up or down, also at no charge. All we ask is that you have the garment dry-cleaned before bringing it in for either of these services.

Return Policy

If one of our garments fails to live up to reasonable expectations in any way, we invite you to bring it back. Whether we need to repair or replace it or to refund your money, we will happily do whatever is required to give satisfaction.

Shopping by Appointment

The value of shopping by appointment is the amount of time it saves you. Once our sales associates have learned your style and your needs, they can pre-select a range of garments – even a complete wardrobe – and have it ready for your consideration. Acting as your personal shoppers, they will also keep an eye out for specific items you might be seeking for the future and advise you of their arrival by phone, fax or e-mail. All you have to do is choose the most convenient time for your appointment and call your current sales associate (if you don’t have one, just ask for our store manager).

It doesn’t even have to be during our business hours: just provide us with enough notice and we’ll do our best to accommodate you. Of course, you can always just drop by the store.

In an Emergency

Closet Cleanup

Our trained sales associates have the expertise to guide you. They can be relied upon for counsel, recommending the most appropriate way to dress for any occasion. You also have the option of e-mailing questions to us on our web­ site, harryrosen.com.

Are you unsure how to coordinate the clothes you own? Do you want some new clothes for your wardrobe but don’t know where to start? Do you have clothes that haven’t been worn for years but that represent an investment you’re reluctant to be rid of? One of our sales associates will gladly visit your home to take an inventory of your closet, providing suggestions on how to mix and match your existing wardrobe. He’ll recommend additions to your wardrobe and determine a plan for seasons to come. A tailor can also be on hand to suggest any fittings or readjustments you may need.

Need a sudden replacement for a dress shirt or tie, quick alterations, a pair of dry socks? Call your nearest Harry Rosen store for a solution to the problem.

Expertise

Preferred Contact

Let us know your preferred method of contact – by phone, by mail or by e-mail – and we’ll keep you apprised of special events, promotions and sales.

We’ll also make sure you continue to receive your copy of this magazine.

Please notify us at the store or at harry@harry rosen.com of any change in your e-mail, telephone number or address, and we’ll update your file.

Ask Harry

This service is provided online for those who need menswear-related questions answered.

Feedback is also available directly from Harry Rosen associates.

photography, tom arban

Gift Card

For those on your gift list who would prefer to experience Harry Rosen first-hand (or when you

We invite you to join our newsletter.

In addition to sending you updates on new arrivals, designer launches and advice for the season, we can also invite you to made-tomeasure events and other special or charit­ able events and notify you of upcoming sales.

You can decide on the frequency and content of those e-mails at any time simply by accessing My Contact Preferences when you sign in at www.harry rosen.com. Providing your e-mail address to Harry Rosen will enable you to receive our e-mail newsletters or, if you prefer, e-mail messages directly and solely from your sales associate. We consider it a privilege to be able to send you only the information you desire and respect the confidentiality of your e-mail address and any other information you share with us. To register your email address, subscribe at www.harryrosen.com.

can’t remember your brother’s collar size), a gift card is always welcome.

Available in-store or online in any denomination up to $2,000, it can be redeemed whenever the recipient chooses; the balance is left on the card until it’s time for another purchase.

If there are other services you’d like to see us provide, please drop us a line at harry@harryrosen.com

fall/winter 2012

117

harry

guide

Looking for a specific label? A favourite designer? You’ll find it below together with our store directory.

Available at all Harry Rosen Stores Allegri Armani Collezioni Autumn Cashmere BOSS Black BOSS Green BOSS Orange Brax Burberry Brit Canada Goose Canali Citizens of Humanity Coppley Corneliani Dion Ermenegildo Zegna Ties Eton Fred Perry Harry Rosen ‘Made in Italy’ J.P. Tilford by Samuelsohn John Smedley John Varvatos Star USA Milestone PYA Black Label Ralph Lauren RLX Robert Graham Sand 7 For All Mankind Adriano Goldschmied Denim Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Calgary Chinook Centre, TD Square Vancouver Pacific Centre Alberto Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, First Canadian Place, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Vancouver Pacific Centre Andrew Marc Toronto Eaton Centre, First Canadian Place, Mississauga Square One, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Rockland Centre Winnipeg Polo Park Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary Chinook Centre Belstaff Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Yorkdale Vancouver Pacific Centre

Brioni Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Brunello Cucinelli Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Calgary TD Square Vancouver Pacific Centre Dolce & Gabbana Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Yorkdale Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Calgary TD Square Vancouver Pacific Centre Ermenegildo Zegna Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, First Canadian Place, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Etro Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary TD Square Vancouver Pacific Centre G-Lab Toronto Eaton Centre, Yorkdale Montreal Rockland Centre Winnipeg Polo Park Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary Chinook Centre Vancouver Oakridge Centre Giorgio Armani Couture Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Vancouver Pacific Centre Isaia Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Vancouver Pacific Centre John Varvatos Collection Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Vancouver Pacific Centre Lanvin Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Loro Piana Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Vancouver Pacific Centre

Michael Kors Toronto Eaton Centre, First Canadian Place, Mississauga Square One, Sherway Gardens Montreal Rockland Centre Winnipeg Polo Park Calgary Chinook Centre, TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre Moncler Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Mississauga Square One, Yorkdale Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal, Rockland Centre Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Parajumpers Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Mississauga Square One, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Winnipeg Polo Park Calgary Chinook Centre Vancouver Oakridge Centre Paul & Shark Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal, Rockland Centre Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Poggianti Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Vancouver Pacific Centre Ralph Lauren Black Label Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Ralph Lauren Double RL Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Robert Talbott Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, First Canadian Place, Sherway Gardens, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary Chinook Centre, TD Square

Stenstroms Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, First Canadian Place Stone Island Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Yorkdale Calgary TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Tom Ford Toronto 82 Bloor Street West Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal Calgary TD Square Versace Collection Toronto Eaton Centre, Mississauga Square One, Yorkdale Montreal Rockland Centre Winnipeg Polo Park Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Vancouver Pacific Centre Z Zegna Toronto 82 Bloor Street West, Eaton Centre, Mississauga Square One, Yorkdale Ottawa Rideau Centre Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal, Rockland Centre Edmonton West Edmonton Mall Calgary Chinook Centre, TD Square Vancouver Oakridge Centre, Pacific Centre Shoes A. Testoni Allen Edmonds Armani Brunello Cucinelli Canali Cole Haan Dolce & Gabbana Donald J. Pliner Hugo Boss John Varvatos Prada Salvatore Ferragamo Swims Tod’s Uggs Australia We try to keep everything in stock, but some merchandise in this book may not be in our stores at all times. If you have any questions, please contact your sales associate or store manager at any of the stores listed here. Prices may be subject to change without notice.

Harry Rosen Store Directory Toronto 82 Bloor Street West 416 972 0556 Eaton Centre 416 598 8885 First Canadian Place 416 981 9097 Mississauga Square One 905 896 1103 Sherway Gardens 416 620 6967 Yorkdale Shopping Centre 416 787 4231 Ottawa Rideau Centre 613 230 7232 Montreal Les Cours Mont-Royal 514 284 3315 Rockland Centre 514 735 6227

Winnipeg Polo Park Shopping Centre 204 786 2368 Edmonton West Edmonton Mall 780 444 1637 Calgary Chinook Centre 403 252 2848 TD Square 403 294 0992 Vancouver Oakridge Shopping Centre 604 266 1172 Pacific Centre 604 683 6861 If you enjoy receiving your copy of harry but have had a change of address, please advise us of your new mailing address by e-mail at harry@harryrosen.com or write to us at: Harry Rosen Inc. 77 Bloor Street West Suite 1600 Toronto, Ontario Canada M5S 1M2

fall/winter 2012

119

harry

Moments in Time

Before there was harry magazine, there was The Harry Rosen Report on Men’s Wear, at the time Canada’s bible of up-to-date sartorial taste. Tastes change. Today, those very generous lapels and linebacker’s shoulders seem as old-fashioned (though not as uncomfortable) as the sofa upon which our model sits.

Not that we’re mocking. As English novelist L. P. Hartley put it, “The past is a foreign country: they do things differently there.”

120

harry

BOSS Black

BOSS 0476/S / BOSS 0471/S

HUGO BOSS CANADA INC. Phone +1 905 739 2677 www.hugoboss.com