HARBORS Sept/Oct 2016 Issue

Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle

HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

Poets Cove

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PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT George V. Bivoino EDITOR Russ Young editor@harborsmagazine.com ART DIRECTOR Anika Colvin COPY EDITING Biff Burns ADVERTISING SALES Mark McLean, Senior Account Executive mark@harborsmagazine.com

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View the most sought- after adventure destinations around the waters of the Pacific Northwest.

Adventure & Lifestyle Videos

CONTRIBUTORS Pat Awmack Joshua Colvin Natasha Dworkin Linda Haverstock

Deane Hislop Terry W. Sheely Tom Tripp Russ Young

PHOTO CREDITS Poets Cove, pgs. 14-21 Deane Hislop, pgs. 22-26 Terry W. Sheely, pgs. 30-37 Andrew Waits, Art Grice & Roger Turk, pgs. 44-50

Rob Haverstock, pgs. 52-57 LLTK, pgs. 58-60 Hotel Blu, pgs. 72-73 AJ Hunt, pgs. 74-75 Royal Scot, pgs. 76-77

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Welcome to HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

A Note from the Publisher

Harbor Lights Greetings, Summer is winding down, but what a great season we’ve had here in the Pacific Northwest!

The HARBORS team was fortunate to take several trips to the Washington coast, northern British Columbia, the Gulf Islands and Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula. You’ll see several articles in future issues from all the destinations we explored during the summer months.

Our editor Russ Young had a great visit to Pender Island and the Poets Cove Resort, Spa & Marina in July—and you can read all about it in this issue. This edition will also take you to a floatplane paradise in northern BC with some spectacular photography, and on a seven-day cruise on the MV Mist Cove through the waters of southeast Alaska. Plus, you’ll read about many more destinations you’ll want to explore for yourselves.

It is so gratifying for all the writers, photographers and staff to be able to virtually transport you, our readers, to so many wonderful and exciting seaplane and boating destinations in the Pacific Northwest. We have an exceptional region of natural beauty to explore and live.

All the beautiful photos and wonderful stories we publish are made possible by our advertisers.

Those airlines, boat manufacturers, resorts, outfitters, realtors and many other kinds of businesses make it possible for us to bring you this publication. We wish to thank all our advertisers for supporting HARBORS. Without advertising we would not be able promote boating and seaplane activity in Washington, British Columbia and Alaska. In return, we ask our readers to pay close attention to the ads you see in HARBORS; they all offer great opportunities, great values and quality products. Thank you!

In the spirit of the Pacific Northwest, safe travels! And enjoy the last weeks of summer!

Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher

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B Y

2016 September/October

Features

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Poets Cove Resort, Spa & Marina

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Olympia’s Swantown Marina

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MV Mist Cove

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Travel Maps

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On the Waterfront

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A Floatplane Paradise

The Wild Heart of Northern BC

(photo by Alan Bauer)

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Iconic Companies, Iconic Fish

Cover Photo: A seaplane view of Poets Cove.

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HARBORS Happenings

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Gear Guide

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Seaplane & Boating Destinations

Pender Island, BC

Ideal for Visiting Boaters Alaskan Adventure

Pacific Northwest Coastal Waterways Bainbridge Island, WA

Salish Sea Marine Survival Project Alexander Marine Rendezvous Picking the Perfect Paddle

Vancouver, BC • Friday Harbor, WA • Victoria, BC

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Poets Cove

Resort, Spa & Marina Oohs and Ahhs on Pender Island

by Russ Young

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ur “oohing” and “ahhing” began before we even left on our weekend adventure.

While we were sitting outside, waiting for our Seair flight to depart from Vancouver International Airport’s seaplane terminal, we were vocally celebrating the warm sunshine of a near-perfect July afternoon, cooled by a gentle breeze.

And after landing on the picturesque bay at Pender Island’s Port Washington, it seemed that another “ooh”—or was it an “ahh?”—was in order.

But the best was yet to come. We still hadn’t arrived at our destination, Poets Cove Resort, Spa & Marina.

We were greeted at the dock by a shuttle driver who carried our bags up the steep incline to the resort’s van, and who not only narrated as we drove south down the island, but also shared with us the story of how he and his wife came to live on a 40-foot sailboat moored off the island. (There’s

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a sailing voyage to New Zealand in their future, but he tells it better than I would. So I encourage you to ask him about it when you come to Poets Cove.)

After checking in and opening the door to our room, we began a fast and furious set of verbal exclamations: the view of Bedwell Harbour, and the waterfall! The generously sized deck!

Ooh! The king-size bed, the soaking tub with a view, and the fireplace!

Ahh! We almost missed the fact that there was a blacktail deer standing about ten feet from our deck, eyeing us quizzically but not perturbed by the sounds coming from our mouths.

We were tempted to spend the rest of the evening sitting on our deck, sipping sauvignon blanc and listening to the live music that Poets Cove hosts on a waterfront stage Friday and Saturday nights.

But we were coaxed down to sea level by the smell of food from the Syrens Lounge, the resort’s pub and

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casual-dining establishment. We secured an outdoor table near the band, and couldn’t help but sample the oyster tacos and a lamb burger.

The all-ages crowd at Syrens was enjoying the country blues of SandyBone and the BreakDown as the sun slipped behind the hills that surround the cove, turning the band’s backdrop to a palette of oranges, pinks and purples. “We have the best lighting guy in the business,” quipped singer/guitarist Sandy.

After falling asleep to the sound of the waterfall, then enjoying our complimentary breakfast—you must try the nine-grain croissants—it was spa time.

When I booked at Susurrus-The Spa at Poets Cove, I had intended to have a relaxation massage, but when I mentioned a chronic shoulder problem to my massage therapist, she suggested that she should concentrate on the affected area. An hour later I left, feeling better than I had in months,

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and with a prescription (of sorts) that she had given me: two 15-minute sessions in the adjacent eucalyptus steam cave, followed by a lengthy soak in the spa’s waterside hot tub. Oh—I almost forgot—I was to drink lots of lemon water, but follow up by sipping some bourbon at Syrens Lounge!

My traveling companion opted for a tension-release massage, but was happy to join me in following my therapist’s “orders.”

Susurrus offers a full range of massage, body and facial treatments, along with manicures, pedicures, waxing and tinting. Make sure you allow time before or after your visit for the steam cave and hot tub.

The resort has 22 rooms in the main building, all of which have soaking tubs, fireplaces, private decks, and fine views of the cove and marina.

But there are other options; 13 hillside cottages with full-service kitchens, patios and barbeques. There are two- and three-bedroom units, some of which have their own outdoor hot tubs.

And there are nine “villas”—essentially rowhouses—that are well-suited for families and/or extended stays, but with full access to all of the resort’s amenities.

There are two pools; the waterfront pool is open to all ages; the other, up the hill overlooking the cove, is for adults only. There is also a small, but well-equipped, gym.

Pender Island, which is actually two islands labeled “North” and “South,” is quite rural. (Another shuttle driver called the compact Driftwood Centre “Downtown Pender.”) But you can find everything you need for an extended stay in a cottage or a villa, as well as some unique items to take home. The island is a popular home for artists and there are a number of galleries to visit. Most of the art at the resort is for sale, including the very colorful paintings by art director (and next-door-neighbor) Dorset Norwich-Young.

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You need not travel any farther than the Poets Cove Activity Centre to arrange kayak, SUP and boat rentals; hiking and biking; fishing; whale watching and eco-excursions. There’s a nine-hole golf course at Otter Bay, and a highly regarded disc-golf (Frisbee) course near Magic Lake.

The Pender Ocean Defenders (POD) have set up the shoreline Whale Trail to promote shore-based whale watching. They encourage trail users to bring binoculars, a camera and “something to write with should you witness marine mammal harassment.” Boats must remain 100 meters from marine mammals, including the endangered orcas and other whales, plus dolphins, porpoises, seals and sea lions—all of which frequent the waters surrounding Pender Island.

Getting to the island(s) isn’t hard.

You can fly Seair from Vancouver to Port Washington, or take BC Ferries from Sidney (Vancouver Island) or Tswassen (mainland BC) to Otter Bay. If you have your own seaplane, or arrive by boat, you can pull up to the dock at Poets Cove. Coming from the US? Canadian Customs can greet you there. You’ll find transient moorage for boats up to 100 feet, as well as fuel and 30-amp power.

Back at the resort, it was time for dinner at Aurora, Poets Cove’s finedining restaurant. Executive Chef Jesse Francis recently came to the resort after 12 years at the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge in Alberta. He oversees Aurora and Syrens, and has completely revamped the menus, with one exception: fish and chips. “You absolutely have to offer them at a waterfront restaurant,” he explains. But from there, he’s levered his culinary training to come up with a downstairs pub menu that has the obligatory fried fish and potatoes, but also offers the you-should-try-it Cove (lamb) Burger, tuna tataki and a Tandoori chicken wrap.

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belly appetizer. (We just had to, because Chef Francis revealed that it wasn’t popular before he added some spot prawns to the plate. Suffice to say the combination works!) We couldn’t pass up the oysters, either, then moved on to some memorable grilled steelhead and a gnocchi unlike any other I’ve had, accompanied by a fine pinot noir.

Do we have any regrets after experiencing Poets Cove? Absolutely—we wish we had stayed longer. But we’ll be back, and although we might not “ooh” and “ahh” quite so much, there is no doubt we will enjoy our return immensely.

Plan your trip: Poets Cove Resort, Spa & Marina 250.629.2100 www.poetscove.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Olympia’s Swantown Marina An ideal location for visiting boaters

by Deane Hislop

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lympia, Washington, is an ideal cruising destination.

Situated at the extreme southern end of Puget Sound, the city sits in the shadow of the rugged Olympic Mountains, with the statecapitol dome dominating its skyline to the east. With a marina and a landing within walking distance of downtown, lots of nearby restaurants and shopping opportunities, combined with natural beauty and the friendliness of a small town, Olympia is a place definitely worth visiting.

Budd Inlet splits into two smaller waterways, West Bay and East Bay, surrounding the narrow finger of land that comprises the Port of Olympia.

Moorage is available in both bays.

Arlene and I carefully monitored the chart plotter and depth sounder as we guided Easy Goin’ between the markers that show the way down the dredged channels that narrow from 28 feet to 14 feet, avoiding the shoaling in Budd Inlet. Our destination for this visit was Swantown Marina & Boatyard, located in East Bay. The Olympia area was originally occupied by the Coastal Salish people; they called it “Cheetwoot” (“the

black bear place”). Budd Inlet was a favorite shellfish-gathering site for the Nisqually, Duwamish and Squaxin tribes.

The area was visited in 1792 by Peter Puget, as part of British expedition under Captain George Vancouver. By 1860, Captain Sam Percival had built the first commercial pier on Puget Sound, Percival Landing, for steamships. Today, Percival Landing is a social hub with its pleasure-boat moorage, city parks, restaurants and nearly mile-long boardwalk.

Over in East Bay, John Swan would be proud of the development that has taken place on his former property known as Swan’s Slough. Today Swantown is the largest marina in the state and the center of recreational boating activities in southern Puget Sound.

Swantown Marina & Boatworks, with its 700-plus slips (including 50 guest-moorage slips) in a parklike setting, is perfect for visiting boaters and an ideal destination for yacht-club cruises. Guest moorage is

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located on A-Dock, the first slips inside the breakwater, which provides visitors 30- and 50-amp power, water and free Wi-Fi. There’s a large grassy area with picnic tables and barbecues upland from the guest docks. Spotless restrooms, showers, laundry, a recycling center and walking trails are conveniently located nearby. A fuel dock is scheduled to open in the fall of 2016. The Swantown Boatworks, located at the head of the bay, is available for repair work, with an 82-ton travel lift for haul-out service and a chandlery.

There is plenty to do when visiting the capital city. History buffs will enjoy a historic self-guided walking tour of downtown, an 1860 house museum, a tour of the Washington capitol building and antique stores.

Other choices include several art galleries, shopping and book stores.

Once we were secure in the slip, we made the short walk to Capitol Way South to hop aboard the free Dash Shuttle, which travels up the hill to State’s capitol for a tour. Free guided tours of the Washington State Legislative Building are offered hourly seven days a week, between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. on weekdays, and between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. on weekends.

The informative tour lasted about 45 minutes and we learned about the building’s architecture, its dome and the massive Tiffany chandelier suspended from it. We also heard about the magnificent colored marble from Italy, France and Germany throughout, and visited the legislative wings to learn about the workings of state law.

Then it was back down the hill on the shuttle to stroll along the Percival Landing docks and boardwalk.

A visit to the landing would not be complete without a touring the refurbished, 100-year old tug, Sand Man, which hauled everything from oysters to log barges for much of its working life. Today, the vessel is operated by The Sand Man Foundation, a non24

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Washington State’s Jewels The Washington State Legislative Building, completed in 1928, serves as the state’s center of government and the centerpiece of five historic buildings on the capitol campus. The building is home the largest collection of Louis Comfort Tiffany in the world. The state’s grand Tiffany treasure is the chandelier, featuring Greco-Roman stylized figures, which hangs high above the rotunda, suspended by a 3,000-pound chain. The massive 10,000-pound chandelier arrived in pieces by train and was assembled on the rotunda floor, before it was hoisted into place. Beside housing the largest chandelier ever made by Tiffany, the 287-foot tall capitol dome is one of the tallest masonry domes in North America.

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profit organization. The boat is open to public viewing on the weekend and it’s free.

On our way back to the marina we made a stop at Olympia’s Farmers Market for provisions. With its “when pigs fly” wind vane on the roof and 200 vendors, the market is reportedly one of the largest such markets in Washington. The Farmers Market receives approximately 400,000 visitors a season; 2016 is its 40th anniversary. The airy market building teems with local fruits, vegetables, seafood, meats, bakery items, flowers, crafts, takeout food and entertainment.

The last stop on the way back to Easy Goin’ was at Batdorf & Bronson to sample some handcrafted coffees, and to watch beans from Africa, Indonesia and Latin America in the roasting process through windows in the tasting room. We departed with a half-pound of organic French Roast beans.

Olympia hosts several festivals each year, including the Dragon Boat Festival (April), Wooden Boat Fair (May), Boatswap & Chowder Challenge (June), Olympia Harbor Days and Tugboat Races (Labor Day weekend).

If you’re in need of a refreshment after exploring Olympia, The Eastside Club is all about beer, with 40plus taps pouring the finest brews from the Northwest and beyond to suit any taste. The pub was the inspiration for “Moe’s Tavern” on The Simpsons television show.

When in port we enjoy letting someone else do the cooking, and the capitol city has no shortage of good restaurants and pubs. Bud Bay Café is known for its view of Percival Landing and sunset dining, boasting a 180-degree bay view and featuring an extensive selection of seafood and steaks. It’s hard to choose what to eat at The Oyster House, where the oysters are the stars, but a look at the menu will show a selection of appe-

tizers, seafood, steak and pasta dishes. Other can’t-go-wrong options, all within easy walking distance, are Anthony’s Homeport, Dockside Bistro, Gardner’s Seafood & Pasta, and Mercato Ristorante. For breakfast, it’s King Solomon’s Reef, a retro diner with booths and a counter.

The following morning as we guided Easy Goin’ out of Budd Inlet we decided that our next visit would include the self-guided walking tour of Olympia’s five square block historical district and exploring the more than 15 downtown antique stores.

Plan your visit: Swantown Marina & Boatworks 47.03’20” N/122.53’49” W VHF 65A 360.528.8049 www.swantownmarina.com

Bruce Marshall Harbor Director Port of Olympia A lifelong boater, Bruce Marshall got his first boat when he was nine years old. At age 18, he began building a 27-foot sailboat that took four years to complete.

Over the next 17 years, he sailed it extensively along the coasts of California and Mexico, and spent several years living aboard. He has extensive sailboat racing experience and is a Trans-Pac veteran.

Bruce has a master license and an unlimited tonnage harbor-pilot’s license issued by the U.S. Coast Guard, as well as a master license from the British Virgin Islands Port Authority. He holds a bachelor degree in Public Administration and master’s degree in Business from the University of San Francisco. He is also a Certified Marina Manager,

Certified Marine Services Manager and has attended Washington’s Basic Marine Law Enforcement Academy.

Burce has managed recreational marina and boatyard facilities in California, Washington and the British Virgin Islands. He has been working for the Port of Olympia since 1998.

Bruce always says that the best part of his job is watching people use their boats: “I’m glad that I can be a part of supporting people to enjoy an activity that I love so much.”

If you get down to the Port of Olympia’s Swantown Marina and Boatworks, please stop by and say “hello” to Bruce.

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Seven Days on the

MV Mist Cove On this cruise we don’t look at Alaska—we touch it, feel it, smell it and live it

by Terry W. Sheely

T

his is not the type of cruise where we lean on damp railings four stories above the water, talking about buffets and watching Alaska slide past in the misty distance, too far away to know but close enough to say that we were here.

And it’s not a daylight-to-dark hard-core fishing trip, although we do our share. Nor is it an eco-cultish excursion, even though we have an on-board naturalist; or a soft, coddled excursion, although we’re well-tended by guides.

This week-long cruise is a boots-inthe-barnacles learning adventure with just the right amount of edge, action and diversity—Southeast Alaska done right. This Juneau-to-Sitka trip was mapped out by The Boat Company, based in Poulsbo, Washington. It became an experience that I can hardly describe to others—because it’s almost impossible.

Our mid-July excursion starts at a dripping dock in Juneau’s Gastineau Channel, on a sharply-bowed boat with lots of teak, brass and character.

The 157-foot MV Mist Cove took us south down the east side of Admiralty Island, poking into coves, under wa-

terfalls and along calving glaciers into unforgettable calendar scenery.

It was a week punctuated by natural exclamation points; stops for streamwading halibut and king salmon, glaciers, icebergs, kayaking, hiking, hot-spring soaking, humpbacks and tag-team orcas, shrimp potting and crab trapping, bear sighting and amazing meals.

From the start, the trip hits high gear leaving Juneau’s misty rain for sunshine in Stephens Pass. Cameras click at blue icebergs, Ford’s Terror, Midway Islands and Sum Dum Glacier as we sail deeper into a virtuallypeople-empty Tongass National Forest. The Tongass is three times larger than any other national forest with fjords, mountains, wilderness areas and wildlife.

For a week we motor south; stopping, photographing, running the skiffs ashore and the kayaks into coves, and anchoring up nights, always in an infinitely changing hush of calendarquality panoramas.

If that description comes across as “over the top,” it’s because that’s exactly what this trip is—by design.

The Boat Company created the cruise as a floating stage to rouse ap-

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preciation for Southeast’s immense, diverse, controversial and isolated Tongass. It was a goal that founder Michael McIntosh tempered with personal realities. “I love the wilderness,” he admitted, “but I have also reached a stage in life where, at the end of a day filled with fishing, kayaking, hiking, berry picking or watching wildlife, I’m ready for a long hot shower, a gourmet meal, good wine and a warm, comfortable bed.”

Three decades later, we’re on a touch it, smell it, taste it, love it, fishing, kayaking, hiking, berry picking and wildlife-watching adventure. With gourmet meals, good wine and warm, comfortable beds.

There are 25 of us on board the MV Mist Cove with private rooms, showers, library, open bar, plush furniture and a massive crescent-shaped dining table that fits the rounded bend of the fantail.

We see our first humpback whales within a half-hour of Juneau and black bears before dinner; then sea otters, icebergs and a dark rock packed with lumps of brown sea lions.

By the end of the week naturalist Alice Lee will have written on her whiteboard the names of 58 species of wildlife we’ve spotted.

We get an overload of visceral and visual effects; streams full of salmon and char, saltwater kings and halibut; brown bears grazing on marsh grass; the humpback whale that charged the boat and dove under at the last instant; pods of bubble-netting breaching humpbacks; orcas; and eagles.

Captain Eric (“I stop the boat for everything”) Thor Olsen holds up a Dungeness crab the size of a dinner plate. It will reappear later, dipped in butter and served with marinated black cod, caramelized carrots, poppyseed baguettes, ice-cream sundaes, pinot noirs and chardonnays.

The crab feast is part of the Mist Cove’s sea-to-table experience.

The first night we anchor in a cove between mountain walls. Three water32

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falls plunge from a glacial basin. We sleep into the night surrounded by the glacier’s rumble.

In the morning we launch skiffs and run five miles to Dawes Glacier, a 100-foot-high, half-mile wide, wall of ice. In front of it is a floating skirt of melodic ice balls, and weathersculpted bergs. The massive glacier cracks, shudders and calves, with more primal power than imaginable, scraping away mountains, hiding prehistoric bones.

Nearby, seal pups haul out on drifting bergs as we spot mountain goats in the rocks.

Each day is crowded with go-do experiences. Then hikers hit Forest Service trails, comb tide flats, and walk streambeds and beaches with trained naturalists. Kayakers explore hidden coves and scenic shorelines; fishermen check out streams or take skiffs after saltwater salmon and halibut. Today, in the shifting gravel of Rusty River at the head of Port Houghton Bay, Dolly Varden char and pink salmon are striking our flies and spinners. For some guests it’s their first fishing experience.

As the Mist Cove nears The Brothers, three orcas follow alongside. A bull with a deeply notched fin dives under the boat and surfaces alongside.

Later, we anchor skiffs at a small island with a dead tree and a perched eagle, and catch halibut, including a 92-pounder that was released.

The next morning I’m in an orange kayak with a fellow passenger, slipping along in crystalline water, over huge palms of waving copper kelp, purple and orange sea stars, quick minnows and slow jellyfish. I set the paddle down, lean back and smile; she’s staring into the water, mesmerized by the kelp ballet. Two eagles whisper past.

Mist Cove anchors for the night in Red Bluff Bay, just off the crash of a white waterfall. As we eat fresh halibut, an orca circles us in the deep purple light.

In the morning, coffee steaming, I The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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watch three blacktail deer wade at the back of the bay, their red sides lit up in bright contrast with yellow grass and blue water. Then Captain Olsen pokes Mist Cove into the sunrise, turning north into Chatham Strait for Halibut Rock and Warm Springs Bay. Upon arrival there’s a boardwalk, a clutch of derelict buildings sliding toward the bay and nine waterfront tubs filled with 120-degree water from a hot spring that bubbles into a pool beside a thundering 100-foot waterfall.

A light mist falls in the night, creating stringers of steam and clouds for the morning light to set afire. We pull out and head into Peril Strait.

A half-dozen humpbacks are on a bubble-netting binge along the shoreline. From the upper deck we see the whales release bubbles that form a “net” in the green satin water; it’s a circle of air corralling a massive school of herring. The bubble net forces the baitfish into a tight, panicked cluster.

The lead whale sings and on the sig36

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nal the circling humpbacks torpedo upward through the packed baitfish, cavernous mouths open and scooping protein, rising above the surface in a massive spray of water, light and fish scales.

We can’t take our eyes off the show, 45-foot-long cetaceans erupting out of the water ten—perhaps twelve— times in spectacular leaps. It’s a rare sight in perfect morning light.

The last full day is storybook stuff.

We saw the bubble-netting super show; caught king salmon at Salisbury; had a hike cut short by a grizzly grazing in the trail; and witnessed a close-out sunset that Hollywood couldn’t imagine: shades of pink, red, orange and yellow that paint the clouds, sky and the pointed bow of the Mist Cove. In the center of this natural palette is the silhouette of a single pyramid peak.

“We weren’t just watching Alaska,” a guest says, “we were part of it.” www.theboatcompany.org The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Ketchikan to Skagway

Alaska

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On the Waterfront Waterfront Living in the Pacific Northwest

A Wall Unlike Its Owner Bainbridge Island, WA

by Russ Young

Architect Matthew Coates of Bainbridge Island, Washington says his goal as a designer is to create a building that is “a reflection of the client; who they are and how they live. You don’t want to impose your personality on them ... you design for them.”

So when Earl Dorsey, a Los Angeles attorney, began working with Coates to design and build a waterfront vacation home on Bainbridge, the architect asked him about his personality. The answer was essentially “warm, welcoming and gregarious”—that is, once someone gets to know Dorsey. But, he told Coates, the initial impression that some people get is that he is reserved, perhaps even unapproachable.

Homeowner Earl Dorsey

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The architectural interpretation was concrete; lots and lots of concrete. As you approach Dorsey’s home, you are greeted by a two-story, rough-finished concrete wall that wraps around the north side of the house. It’s formidable; Coates describes it as a “big gray wall with a couple of holes in it.” A low gabionstyle wall filled with recycled brick stands between the house and the road, adding to sense that this may be more of a fortress than a home.

But step around the bunker-like wall to approach the front door, and a surprisingly different personality emerges; copper, wood and glass provide a warm and welcoming space.

Walk through the door, and the interior is light, airy and spacious.

The three-story, 2,800 square-foot home occupies a small footprint, close to the road and the neighboring homes, built on a steep hillside.

But the extensive use of glass on the house’s west side maximizes a sense of being alone in the woods, looking out through the maples and firs at the Olympic Mountains across Port Orchard Bay. There is a series of small terraces, connected by stairs that lead to the stony beach below. It’s not hard for a visitor to imagine sitting in one of the brightly colored bucket-chairs, contemplating the view and the sounds of nature, whether in sunlight or a gentle Northwest rainstorm.

Viewed from the water side, it’s as if you are looking at a completely different structure; one made of glass, metal siding and wood. That’s exactly what Dorsey and Coates were aiming for with the design; “two different houses,” the architect said.

The previous house on the site was badly damaged in a fire, and Dorsey had considered repairing and remodeling the home. But after consulting with Coates, the decision was to tear down—actually, make that “deconstruct”—the old structure and build the design that is a reflection of the 46

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homeowner’s personality.

The first step was to build the massive concrete wall, which is 18 inches thick and is set 15 feet into the ground. That part of the project alone took three months; the rest of the construction took just over a year.

Much of the material used in the new house was reclaimed from the original home, thanks to the “deconstruction,” rather than demolition.

The burned house had been built around a large fir tree. While the tree was cut down to accommodate the new footprint, it was milled and lives on in a sense; it is now part of the wood-and-steel stairs that connect the home’s three floors.

Go up those stairs, and you’ll find a roomy master suite with a to-diefor view out huge west-facing windows. A steam shower with a massive rainfall-type showerhead looks like the perfect way to start a morning at The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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this home-away-from-home. There is also a second bedroom that’s made versatile by a Murphy bed, a built-in desk and a large pocket door.

Back down the stairs, the 12-foot ceilings on the main floor add to the openness of the home. You’ll spot a basalt-and-zebrawood surround for a bioethanol-burning fireplace. It’s decorative, rather than a heat source, as the constraints of the site didn’t allow for a propane tank. But that’s where the big concrete wall, partially exposed in some parts of the interior, shows off its functionality: it serves as a thermal mass, retaining heat during the winter and helping naturally cool the home during the summer.

Walk across the radiant concrete floor to the minimalist kitchen, and its uncluttered countertops and streamlined appearance. There is a large adjacent pantry; “caramelized” The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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bamboo cabinets hide the refrigerator, washer, dryer, wine chiller and substantial storage space. There is a large cantilevered deck that completes the connection between the indoor and outdoor spaces.

On the ground floor, there is a guest suite with a bathroom that Coates jokingly says is the place to be in case of a disaster, thanks to the concrete walls and footings that surround it. A spacious media room opens onto a covered terrace with those aforementioned bucket chairs, so Dorsey and his houseguests can decide between a movie or some natural, outdoor entertainment.

Bainbridge Island is a short ferry ride from downtown Seattle and is home to a substantial number of commuters who work in the city.

But for Earl Dorsey, it’s his place to take a break from a city and a career, resting and reflecting­—and living a lifestyle that’s quite unlike that “unapproachable” concrete wall.

MATTHEW COATES Coates Design Architects, Bainbridge Island, WA “Responsible Architecture” is more than

just a tagline for Matthew Coates and his 12-person firm. In 2005 he won the “Cradle to Cradle” (C2C) design competition for the most sustainable home design of the future; he says many of his winning ideas are now commonplace in design and construction. As a designer with the international firm of NBBJ, he was given a secret project that turned out to be the Seattle headquarters of the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, which is recognized for its sustainability.

Despite a design resume that included such large-scale projects as Calgary International Airport and Seattle’s Museum of Flight, Coates took a break to build his own home to better understand the start-to-finish process of designing and constructing. As a result, he opened his own firm, which does civic, commercial and residential projects.

Waterfront homes in and around Puget Sound are the kind of challenges he savors, citing steep topography, remote sites and the criticality of the surrounding environment as factors that must often be considered and dealt with during the design and build processes.

A native of Torch Lake, MI, Coates earned his undergraduate and master’s degrees at Lawrence Tech University and the University of Illinois at Chicago, respectively.

His constant companion, both at the office and his Bainbridge Island home, is his ten year-old Great Dane Henri (pronounced “Henry”). Away from work, Coates enjoys hiking and kayaking.

Calling architecture his “obsession,” it is the profession he always dreamed of. He’s stayed true to that dream; at 14, Coates’ first job was working for an architect.

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A Floatplane Paradise The Wild Heart of Northern BC

by Linda Haverstock

H

idden behind its ranges and deep in the rifts of northern British Columbia’s mountains, exist places of arresting beauty and ferocious solitude that cannot be accessed by its two meager roads.

Only a floatplane can take you to some of the most impressive remote places left in North America.

A driver can barely see British Columbia’s Mount Edziza Provincial Park from the Cassiar Highway. Accessible only by foot or by air, the park contains not just a volcano, but an entire volcanic system whose mineralized lava flows cover it with a panoply of colors. This, the larg52

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est volcanic area in Canada, contains many symmetrical cone-shaped mountains—some startlingly black, others streaked with vermillion and some sooty cones that transition to a sunshine-colored base.

The Cambria Icefield, a glaring white sheet of ice larger than Rhode Island, only peeks over the edge of the cliffs lining the road that takes you to the town of Stewart. Glaciers ooze down from its heights; as it melts it makes lacy waterfalls. Not only can you just barely see the icefield, you have no idea of its magnitude. It begs to be seen from above.

The upper two-thirds of British

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Columbia, an immense wilderness larger than the state of California, is home to about a quarter-million hardy souls. Almost all of them live along the two highways that serve the area. The United States built the famous Alaska-Canadian (Alcan) Highway during World War II, to access and defend Alaska. The road runs from Dawson Creek, on the eastern side of BC, northwest to Delta Junction, Alaska. And the Stewart-Cassiar Highway, the corridor for access to the western part of the province, runs through country even more remote than the Alcan’s.

People often call this area the

“Serengeti of the North.” Elk, moose, caribou and deer serve as prey for wolf packs. And the wolves routinely lose much of their kill to the almighty grizzlies, who would rather not chase their own meals. Wood bison, the largest terrestrial animals in North America, were reintroduced and thrive. Their dust wallows line the Alcan.

Little brown bats sweep the awesome bug population that fills the air. Porcupines feed on sweet grasses, wild cabbage and the sweet bark of the Ponderosa pines. In turn, smaller predators—coyotes, wolverines, great horned owls and fishers—prey on the

porcupines. (Very carefully, that is.)

Spruce of several varieties cover low mountains and in the fall, the deciduous trees among them—aspen, birch, and poplar—shine golden until the leaves fall or the autumnal light disappears. On the escarpments that rise above the trees, mountain goats cling to invisible niches while Stone sheep conquer the craggy summits with ease.

How can floatplane pilots not love northern British Columbia, where most every depression is a lake? Rivers, turned pastel with glacial silt, slosh with salmon during the summer runs. Rainbow trout jump in shim-

mering arcs, chasing the ubiquitous flies up crystalline creeks.

You can explore the territory’s inaccessible 150,000 square miles with the help of resorts that cater to floatplanes. Tatogga Lake Resort is five driving-hours from the Yukon border on the Cassiar-Stewart Highway.

It has seaplane services oriented to nearby Mt. Edziza Park and Cold Fish Lake in the Spatsizi Wilderness.

The Northern Rockies Lodge sits on the edge of Muncho Lake, a large slab of translucent jade in along the Alcan Highway, about three driving-hours from the Yukon border.

Cold Fish Lake figures large in the

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history of recreational use, scientific study and eventual protection of the Spatsizi Plateau. In 1948, Tommy Walker and his wife Marion traveled 900 miles from their home in the Bella Coola Valley to set up a fishing and big-game hunting business so they could live at the lake and roam the mountains of their beloved Spatsizi Wilderness. They lobbied long and hard to establish protection for the area. Due to their efforts, in 1975 Gladys Lake Ecological Reserve was set aside for the study of the local ecology, particularly Stone sheep, and Spatsizi Plateau Wilderness Park was established to protect the area from commercial development.

The Walker’s camp at Cold Fish Lake remains, reached only by floatplane or on foot. The haven of six cabins are offered at a minimal price to visitors of the park on a first-come, first-serve basis.

When Tommy and Marion semiretired, they established the trading post at Tatogga Lake. Several owners later, the lodge retains a rugged feel.

A mix of antique cabins and brandnew motel rooms provide a choice of sleeping quarters. Food is served in the lodge under the glass eyes of a huge stuffed moose and a grouping of hungry-looking wolves.

If you would like to charter a flight, Alpine Lakes Air has a base at the Tatogga Lodge. Or you can use their dock for your own floatplane. The rangers also offer a bargain: if you fly one of them in to a remote spot they need to visit, they will provide the fuel. If you are interested, call the senior rangers for the Northwestern area at (250) 771-4591 #2.

The Northern Rockies Lodge, like the Walker’s camp, dates back to right after World War II, when it began business as the Highland Glen Lodge.

It was built on Muncho Lake, arguably the most beautiful lake on the BC section of the Alcan. When Urs and Marianne Schlidknect bought the business in 1986, they renamed it 54

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the Northern Rockies Lodge. Urs had operated a nearby floatplane business, and thought the lodge was in a perfect location for both floatplanes and Alcan travelers. In 1992, the paving of the highway increased the volume of tourists enough to make it necessary to expand. The new lodge they built remains the largest and most successful year-round hotel and RV operation outside a town on the Alcan Highway.

You can keep an eye on your floatplane from the lakeside chalets; just call ahead for a spot. Or if you want to charter a plane, Urs can take you on sightseeing tours for a couple of hours, or to fly-in cabins for extended stays.

If you love the wilderness and remote places, these resorts and others offer opportunities for canoeing, kayaking, fishing, hunting, hiking and photography—and virtually infinite combinations. A visit could easily become the experience of a lifetime.

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Iconic Companies, Iconic Fish Salish Sea Marine Survival Project

by Natasha Dworkin

A

cross the Pacific Northwest, iconic regional businesses are investing in the recovery of one of our most iconic species. From restaurants to hospitality, to technology and even aerospace, economic leaders have recognized that the health and prosperity of our special part of the world is closely tied to the health of our salmon populations.

In gifts announced earlier this year, The Boeing Company, philanthropist (and Microsoft co-founder) Paul G. Allen’s Vulcan Inc., resort owner Nootka Marine Adventures and Seattle institution Duke’s Chowder House demonstrated their commitment to the recovery of salmon by putting their support behind the Salish Sea Marine Survival Project, a unique international collaboration initiated by nonprofit Long Live the Kings.

The effort—which spans the United States-Canada border and encompasses more than 100 research sites and 150 field scientists—aims to improve understanding about why salmon are not surviving in the inland marine waters of Puget Sound and the Strait of Georgia.

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“Salmon are an ‘indicator species;’ their vitality signals the future of our wildlife, our waters, and our own health and prosperity,” said Jacques White, Long Live the Kings executive director. “But despite major investments in habitat, in hatchery improvements and harvest reductions, the fact remains that, for more than 30 years, salmon have experienced very high mortality in saltwater. Resource managers have long acknowledged that unless we can better understand and address the reasons for this low survival, our other investments may be in vain.”

The Salish Sea Marine Survival Project is the largest of its kind. Coordinated in the US by Long Live the Kings and in Canada by the Pacific Salmon Foundation, it brings together more than 60 state, provincial and federal agencies, tribes, nonprofit organizations, universities, and community groups to focus their collaborative resources on solving salmon mortality in the Salish Sea. It is the first time that a single project has leveraged talent, infrastructure, and funds across multiple jurisdictions and authorities to understand what is happening to fish as they

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enter our marine waters—and to identify the solutions needed to solve the problem of low survival.

“Supporting this salmon-survival project fits with our belief that research and data are foundational to effective conservation efforts,” said Dr. Raechel Waters, senior program officer for Ocean Health at Vulcan. “We also value the opportunity to support ocean-health work right here in our own backyard.”

Outcomes from the Salish Sea Marine Survival Project will be essential to increasing the survival of salmon and steelhead, improving the accuracy of return forecasting to facilitate smarter management of fisheries, advancing scientific understanding of salmon and their ecosystem, and driving informed actions to improve the health of the marine environment.

“Boeing has demonstrated its commitment to the health of Puget Sound’s waterways and surrounding communities by investing in cleanup activities and habitat restoration for many years,” said Bill McSherry, vice president of Government Operations at Boeing Commercial Airplanes. “We

are proud to be working with Long Live the Kings and other environmental leaders at the forefront of finding new and better ways to enhance the environmental stewardship of the Puget Sound region.”

Funds contributed by Boeing, Vulcan, Nootka Marine Adventures, and Duke’s, totaling $1.5 million, will be essential over the next several years, as Long Live the Kings and its partners continue cutting-edge field research in dozens of locations in the US and Canada; document and communicate their findings to the scientific community, the press, and the public; and translate those findings toward improving management.

“The Long Live the Kings fishing derby hosted by Nootka Marine Adventures is designed to raise funds to restore wild salmon and provide sustainable fishing in the Salish Sea, benefiting not only the salmon fishing community but the overall natural environment,” said Paul Pfleger, owner of Nootka Marine Adventures, which hosted the inaugural fishing derby in June. “Repairing our aquatic environThe Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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ment can be very rewarding indeed!”

Funding from these and other prominent economic leaders in the Pacific Northwest—and the quality of the science that it enables—illustrates what can happen when the community joins together to apply its thinking and its resources toward solving a problem that impacts everyone.

“Sustainability is very personal to me,” said Duke Moscrip, owner of Duke’s Chowder House. “So I’m passionate about doing whatever we can to restore this amazing resource.

What’s special and unique about Long Live the Kings is that they’re great collaborators; they’re the team builders. They get people who have an interest in salmon to cooperate. We need to do everything we can to restore that population. I want to make sure that our grandchildren and our grandchildren’s grandchildren will have plenty of wild salmon forevermore.” www.lltk.com

C E L E B R AT I N G O U R 3 0 t h A N N I V E R S A RY 1986-2016

Years

OF SALMON RECOVERY

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HARBO R S happenings HA RB O R S happenings H A R B O R S happenings

2016 Alexander MArine

SUMMER GAMES RENDEZVOUS Roche Harbor, WA

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HARBO Rwww.harborsmagazine.com S happenings HA RB O R S happenings H A R B O R S happenings

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HARBO RS happenings HA R B O R S happenings H A R B O R S happenings

HARBO RS happenings HA The R BSeaplane O R S happenings HARB O R S happenings HARBORS | and Boating Destination Magazine

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This kayaker has set his two-piece paddle to have the blades slightly feathered.

Picking the Perfect Paddle Are you buying your own kayak?

Have you been renting or borrowing kayaks for a while, exploring not only destinations but different kinds of trips? It’s a good bet you’ve done quite a bit of research on the boat itself. You’ve talked to dealers, outfitters, friends and read all the online discussion forums. You’re ready to make it happen.

But wait a minute; while the boat is clearly the biggest purchase-decision here, your hands, arms and shoulders will turn on you in a heartbeat if you don’t carefully consider the choice of a paddle. After all, you will spend as much time with the paddle as you do with the kayak, so choose carefully.

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As you begin to shop for a paddle, the first question should not be, “What is the budget?” Price is important, of course, but the first question must be, “How do you intend to use your kayak?” That’s because there really are different paddles for different kinds of kayaking. You can spend as much as $600 on a paddle, or as little as $25–that’s an enormous price range with options at every level.

So, are you primarily going to be on backpacking trips where a lightweight, two-piece paddle that doesn’t add to your trail agony is the priority? Or are you typically on long, over-water expeditions where extreme reliability and lightweight performance are the

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by Tom Tripp

keys? Perhaps you are like Goldilocks ... and your normal kayaking adventures fall somewhere in the middle of those ends of the spectrum. Not surprisingly, there’s a different paddle for each of those possibilities.

The occasional, recreational kayaker who is most likely to stay near the docks or the beach doesn’t need to break the bank for either high-tech materials or extremely light weight.

You won’t be paddling for hours so a little extra heft to the paddle, or simple materials like aluminum, fiberglass and molded plastic might be just fine.

If you spend hours at a time paddling and cover significant distances, particularly in ocean waters, you

_Éääe~êÄçê^ÇJRñQKUTR|uN~KéÇÑ===N===RLNPLNO===NWOP=mj Lithuanian kayak racers in 1936 used a fairly simple wooden paddle design.

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This paddler is using a typical, inexpensive basic paddle.

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Non-feathered paddle

Simple paddles

Two-piece paddle

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should consider a lighter paddle, likely made with high-tech materials like carbon fiber. You might also consider a slightly modified configuration that sets the two paddle blades at different angles. This so-called “feathering� of the paddle blades allows the one that is not in the water to be turned edgewise to the wind, reducing resistance and fatigue. Using feathered blades properly does require a somewhat different technique in which you roll your dominant wrist to turn the blades as you dip them into the water. You might consider trying a feathered paddle on a test run, perhaps as a rental, so you can spend a little time familiarizing yourself with the technique. It takes a little bit of getting used to, but many experienced kayakers prefer it, if not swearing by it.

Once you start researching kayak paddles, you will find options that include beautiful, hand-crafted paddles, with woods such as basswood and red cedar, and laminates that are beautiful and specially strengthened. Keep in mind, too, that wood is not necessarily heavier than other materials. While many paddles are in the two-pound class, there are some wooden paddles that are even lighter.

Choosing the proper length of kayak paddle involves some rule-ofthumb as well as personal preference.

Generally, the length of the paddle is dependent upon the width, or beam, of the kayak, and the height of the paddler. Wider kayaks and taller paddlers typically require longer paddles.

The rule-of-thumb is to stand next to your prospective paddle, reaching up with one arm to see if you can just curl your fingers, at the first joint, over the top edge of the blade. You can then adjust from there according to your preference.

One last bit of advice: when leaving for a trip with your kayak, check, double-check and triple-check that you have packed your carefully selected paddle. You know the old expression about being up a creek, right?

FIND YOUR ESCAPE

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Destinations

Seaplane & Boating

Hotel Blu Vancouver, Vancouver, BC

Vancouver’s Hotel Blu is located just minutes from the city’s downtown core. Situated at the corner of Robson and Cambie Streets, it is a gleaming stone-and-glass tower, which might lead one to believe that the hotel will be huge and impersonal. However, that’s not the case as the hotel inhabits only the first four of the building’s 20 floors, with the rest of the floors housing privately-owned suites. Because there are only 75 rooms in the hotel, the general atmosphere is that of a small boutique hotel.

The hotel is well soundproofed—a bonus for any downtown hotel—and the staff go out of its way to welcome 72

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you and make you feel at home. It was stiflingly hot the day I visited and the offer of a glass of cold sparkling water as I checked in was much appreciated.

The hotel’s location is ideal for those visiting Vancouver to attend a concert or sporting event, as both arenas—as well as the Queen Elizabeth Theatre— are less than a five-minute walk away.

You are downtown, but you’re removed from the bustle of Robson’s busy shopping area. If you are in town to do some shopping, however, some of the city’s prime shops are mere blocks away.

Because the hotel has only been open two years, there are such up-to-date amenities as Samsung Smart TVs and

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by Pat Awmack

Galaxy 4 tablets in each guest room.

Having the tablet is a nice touch, particularly if you’re traveling without a laptop. The complimentary, fiber-optic Wi-Fi is lightning-fast, making it easy to access the Internet—an important feature for a hotel that prides itself on its business-meeting space.

The “floating” glass Pacific Boardroom is a highlight of the hotel. Its floor-to-ceiling windows—which offer views of both Robson and Cambie— bathe the room in natural light and its blown-glass blue table offers seating for up to 14. The 75-inch Samsung Smart TV in that room was literally the largest television I’ve ever encountered.

Additionally, there is an 860-squarefoot conference room available as a larger meeting venue.

Although the hotel doesn’t have a full restaurant, it offers an inviting continental breakfast, which is made in-house. Don’t expect the cornflakes and factory-baked muffins that you’ll often find on offer at many hotels. The buffet is varied, with elements of a European breakfast—such as ham and a delicious house-made cheese—as well as yogurt and fruit, croissants, French toast, oatmeal and a yummy chia pudding.

There is no shortage of restaurants in the neighborhood and I chose to eat at the newly opened Fanny Bay Oyster Bar, which is right next door. Sitting at the bar, I watched as dozens of locallyharvested raw oysters were shucked and served to eager diners. Chambar, one of Vancouver’s most popular restaurants is a short stroll north, and the always-hopping Yaletown, with its abundance of eateries, is located a few minutes south.

The indoor pool is perfect for those traveling with kids or for those who are looking to cool off after a long day, and the Jacuzzi and sauna offer the ideal ending to your workout in the adjacent gym.

I stayed in one of the loft king suites and thoroughly enjoyed having a little extra space. This two-story unit is modeled after a New York-style loft, with the living room—complete with a Nespresso machine, mini-microwave and fridge—and bathroom on the main floor, and a king-size bed upstairs. The glass wall between the shower and living room opens up the space, making it appear even roomier than it actually is. Don’t worry though; there is a privacy blind that can be pulled down when you’re in the shower.

After dinner and a stroll around the neighborhood, I happily returned to the hotel, where I spent the evening on the private terrace off my room, sitting and reading as the balmy summer evening faded to night.

Hotel Blu Vancouver 177 Robson St Vancouver, BC V6B 0N3 855.284.2091 604.620.6200 hotelbluvancouver.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Bird Rock Hotel, Friday Harbor, WA

Take a deep breath of the fresh salt air, shed the hectic city pace—you are now on island time! For a memorable getaway in the heart of Friday Harbor on Washington’s San Juan Island, there’s no more convenient place to stay than the Bird Rock Hotel. Owner/manager Laura Saccio offers plush classic hospitality in a retro-contemporary setting.

The Bird Rock Hotel is a combination of a historic old-island structure and a clean, modern urban remodel. The authentic, original building exterior shelters a stylish, contemporary decor ranging from simple, European-style sleeping rooms to deluxe harbor-view suites. Earth tones with subtle beachhouse highlights reflect the ecology of the island. It all combines to ensure a 74

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peaceful respite from active days spent hiking, paddling and exploring San Juan Island.. At the same time, it is steps away from dining and shopping, as well as the Washington State Ferry, seaplane docks and marina.

Features such as custom beds with organic fair-trade linens, iPod-docking radios, flat-panel satellite HDTV and free high-speed WiFi provide all the comforts of home for those guests who just enjoy relaxing in their rooms. For the more adventurous, there are complimentary beach-cruiser bikes for exploring the town and the island, along with access to an off-site heated indoor pool, jacuzzi, sauna and fitness studio.

Each of the 15 rooms and suites at Bird Rock is unique, allowing guests

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by AJ Hunt

to select the features that satisfy their individual San Juan Island getaway style.

Depending on the room, amenities may include king or queen beds, oversized whirlpool tubs, gas fireplaces, harbor views and private patios. A gourmet continental breakfast is included in the room rate, and evening room service from San Juan Island’s iconic Backdoor Kitchen Restaurant, widely considered one of Friday Harbor’s finest, is available on request.

The downtown area features a variety of choices for dining and entertainment, including wine bars; brewpubs; burgers; seafood; Chinese, Mediterranean, Mexican, Greek, and Thai cuisine; and specialty coffee shops with

homemade desserts. If the weather isn’t cooperating, you can always catch a first-run movie at the local theater, just down the block from the hotel.

Friday Harbor has frequent ferry service, and is only a one-hour flight from Seattle by seaplane. The Friday Harbor marina has a guest dock for boaters. There is really no need for a car as everything is within walking distance. If you want to venture out of town for a quick jaunt to San Juan Vineyards for wine tasting or over to Roche Harbor for dinner, the taxi fare

is minimal. Ideal for taking in the local island scene in downtown Friday Harbor, the Bird Rock Hotel is a convenient island destination perfect for some serious San Juan flavor and fun.

Bird Rock Hotel 35 First Street Friday Harbor, WA 98250 800.352.2632 www.birdrockhotel.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Royal Scot Hotel & Suites, Victoria, BC

There’s a saying in the business world that you can either evolve or celebrate your extinction. Nowhere is this more true than in the hotel industry, where competition from Airbnb and other online vacationhome marketplaces has exploded.

Since they launched in 2008, Airbnb has served 30 million guests worldwide—that’s 30 million people who might otherwise have slept at a traditional hotel. It’s estimated hotels are losing $450 million in direct revenues to Airbnb per year.

For a lot of people, my family included, the primary attraction of an Airbnb property is that it will likely be in a neighborhood—a chance to live among the people of that city,—it will have a separate bedroom for the 76

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kids, and it will have a full kitchen, so we can avoid having to eat every meal out. In short, we like our experience to feel more “resident” and less “tourist.”

Recently, however, we discovered a hotel in Victoria, British Columbia that provides many of these advantages while retaining common hotel conveniences: the Royal Scot Hotel & Suites.

Located on Quebec Street, just back from the city’s waterfront and tourist attractions on Belleville Street, the Royal Scot is near a few other hotels but also part of the adjacent neighborhood. Walk out the front door and go a block or two in one direction and you’re in the hustle and bustle of Victoria Harbor—near the

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by Joshua Colvin

Empress Hotel, the National Geographic IMAX Theatre, horse-andcarriage rides, seaplanes, tour boats, and countless restaurants and shops.

Go in the other direction, though, and you’re walking the quiet streets of James Bay, the oldest neighborhood on the west coast of Canada, passing parks, schools and the occasional local eatery.

James Bay Market, on the corner of Menzies and Superior, sells fresh organic produce and handmade crafts.

James Bay Village has necessities like grocery and liquor stores, coffee shops, cafes, pubs and bakeries—all a few blocks back from the tourists, and the relative chaos and commotion of downtown. At the corner of Oswego and Niagra Streets is Oswego Video,

a true neighborhood video store that has managed to survive by diversifying offerings, renting a huge selection of movies but also selling candy, ice cream, and even pet supplies.

For our stay at the Royal Scot we brought our entire family of five along, which was only practical because the Royal Scot offers loads of suites, many with two separate bedrooms, a kitchen (with stove and microwave), and a dining/living room.

There was space for everyone.

The accommodations were clean and comfortable, but also had an apartment-like feel—something we appreciated and one reason the Royal Scot’s hallmark is “a home-awayfrom-home feel.” It makes sense that they also offer a Long Stay Program for guests who escape from colder climes to Victoria’s temperate climate in the fall and winter.

We were able to “live” in the suite, cooking at home, swimming in the heated pool, and playing games in the downstairs rec room, but could also strike out on foot for downtown attractions or to eat at our favorite restaurants—places like Rebar Modern Food, Willie’s Café and Bakery, and the Interactivity Board Game Cafe.

Other times we’d go the opposite direction, toward quaint James Bay, for an entirely different, more “local,” experience.

While most hotels can’t compete with the “vacation home” appeal of an Airbnb rental, the Royal Scot, with its more residential feel and amenities and central location, does a nice job offering the best of both worlds—you feel a part of Victoria but still get to come home to a clean room and fresh towels.

Royal Scot Hotel & Suites 425 Quebec Street Victoria, BC V8V 1W7 800.663.7515 www.royalscot.com The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

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Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle

H ARBORS 2016 PACIFIC NORTHWEST ADVENTURES: EMPLOYEE INCENTIVE PROGRAM Our company fishing packages are designed to fit your needs. We can customize your trip to be exactly as you request, to provide the experience you want for your group size, type and skill level.

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ADVENTURES

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From 5 to 20+ participants, HARBORS Adventures will partner with you to create a powerful incentive-travel adventure that will drive your greatest assets to exceptional levels year after year.

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Being whisked away in a Grady White or a Boston Whaler and taken to some of the most spectacular fishing areas in the Northern Hemisphere, seeing whales, eagles, sea lions and bears is an everyday experience in the Pacific Northwest.

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Recognize Reward Motivate

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Reward Your Most Valuable Assets With The Experience Of A Lifetime!

Let us custom build a company or group fishing, spa or wildlife retreat, your group will never forget‌ There are so many lodges and resorts out there that it is hard to decide which one is right for your group. Let us help make your adventure plans easier and customized to what you want to do and spend. We have great partnerships with lodges and resorts in WA, BC and AK. Each unique package will give you the experience you want at the best price available. All packages are inclusive with seaplane airfare out of Seattle or Vancouver, meals, boats, tackle and lodging.

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