beverage SOCI ETY Reflections in a Glass
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by Bert Stewart, Dining Services Manager
recently re-read an article published in 2016 by Wine Spectator magazine for their 40th Anniversary Edition entitled, “The Future of Wine: How America became a wine culture, and where we go from here.” The author was editor emeritus, Harvey Steinman, and while it is a bit dated, it is a brilliant piece full of insight and retrospective by a professional who has been, throughout his career, on the front lines of an incredible era in the history of winemaking. As he reminds us, it was us Baby Boomers (some of us anyway) “who first came of age as tentative wine consumers driving America’s growing interest and consumption in the 1970s and ’80s with the implied notion that if you were serious about wine back then, all you needed to know was that the great classics came from France, specifically, Bordeaux for red and Burgundy for white.” In the decades that followed, vintners everywhere (not just California) adopted good grape growing and winemaking practices, and they challenged the monopoly long held by established regions. Gradually, the wine world grew in scope and diversity as, one by one, underperforming vineyard areas came into their own. Over that same timeframe, wine preferences began to change. The author reminds us that it was not until the 1980s that Chardonnay became California’s go-to white wine. Many may remember the 1990s when Shiraz from Australia was all the rage and when Merlot was once the go to red wine, but then the movie Sideways came along and overnight we all became aficionados of Pinot Noir. One thing is for sure: the wines we enjoy today have never been better. Technology and a greater understanding of viticulture has played a major role in allowing winemakers to operate with more precision, generally rendering wines with riper flavors and more supple textures. Wine markets have certainly evolved and consumer consciousness with them. In the 1970s and early 80’s one might expect to pay $20 retail (sometimes less) for a bottle for a grand cru Bordeaux. Try that today! Steinman reminds us that Jordan and Phelps at that time went for around $11 a bottle! Today, many of these collectibles not only in France, but in Italy and the Napa Valley, have priced themselves out of most budgets, with new releases from the stars of those categories approaching $1,000 a bottle.
“The long-term trend lines testify that we are constantly exploring, willing to try new grapes and new regions so long as they deliver value. Over time, we tire of the familiar and get excited about the obscure and indigenous.” In response, consumers began then as now to explore emerging (and more affordable) winegrowing regions such as Argentina, Australia, Chile, Oregon, and Washington, filling the affordability gap. Adventurous Americans have shown themselves willing to experiment in their search for value. These regions responded by overdelivering on quality using newfound winemaking know-how combined with vast vineyard resources. A wine world of greater diversity and variety is a trend that’s virtually certain to continue. Expect more surprises and better wines for a better life. So, say farewell to 2020! To quote Jerry Garcia of the Grateful Dead, “What a Long Strange Trip It’s Been” and raise a glass to discovering the possibilities of new and better wines ahead and for a great and better future!
Top 100 Wine Dinner FRIDAY, MARCH 5
Whiskey Pairing Dinner SATURDAY, APRIL 10
Burnt Church Distillery Spirits Tasting SATURDAY, APRIL 24
Details and registration online
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