Professional Hairdresser March 2023

With Phil Smith 27THE

With Teresa Weller

54

PORTFOLIO:

Virtues

70

BOOKED..!

72

SPECIAL

32THE GENERATION GAME

36START, STAY, STAND-OUT

44SPECIAL PARTNERSHIP with Revlon Professional

LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!

PORTFOLIO

40DAN SPILLER

44MODE Artistic Team

67

PRODUCTS

62DROPPED

Latest Products

64COLOUR CLOSE UP

Schwarzkopf Professional

65STEP BY STEP

Schwarzkopf Professional

66COLOUR CLOSE UP

Directions Hair

67GET THE LOOK

Quif

68PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

Kerasilk

Crown of

by Dan Spiller

Luke Benson shares his diary

VISIT: Santi’s London

Are you down with the kids?

Here at Pro Hair, we like to use our pages to champion causes and people that are helping highlight issues in the wider community. Last month, we met Craig Henderson, who runs a neurodiverse barbershop in Bolton, working with additional needs children. This issue, it’s the turn of Will Brown, a hairdresser from Bedfordshire who has positively transformed his own issues and struggles, developing a mental health training course specifically for hairdressers and barbers. Read what he has to say on page 19 and watch his emotive video – it may just inspire you to call him in!

“Talkin’ ‘bout my generation” (reference the WHO), is what some of you are doing on page 32. A group of hairdressers from Baby Boomers to Gen Zs give us a fascinating insight into how they see the different generations in both work and life.

Continuing the generational theme, our ‘Start, Stay, Stand-out’ feature on page 36 begs the question, ‘what does it take to attract young employees into your business?’ Again, we go cross-generational, covering all sides of the argument, investigating the recruitment crisis whilst hopefully shining a light on the positives.

Enjoy the read.

Editor

Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Editorial Assistant

Tabitha Shannon tshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Digital Manager

Rebecca Mcgeoch rmcgeoch@hamerville.co.uk

HAIR:Emy

Designer Donna Booth

Group Production Manager

Carol Padgett

Production Assistant

Claire Swendell

Group Sales Manager

Oliver Shannon oshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799

Fax: 01923 246901

25,291 • July 20 –June 21

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©2023 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.

HEADLINES

MARK LEESON CELEBRATES ITS SHINING STARS

Renowned Mansfield hair salon, Mark Leeson, kicked off 2023 by celebrating the stars of its team at a sit-down luncheon and awards ceremony. Held at the stylish Mour Hotel in Nottingham, the event recognised the talents and hard work of the award-winning team.

GIAMATTEI BECOMES JOICO CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Bruno-Marc Giamattei was recently announced as the new Creative Director for JOICO UK & EMEA. Having worked with the brand for over four years, the new role sees Bruno developing a variety of creative projects, including the JOICO Artist Team.

REGISTRAR RETIRES FROM THE HAIR AND BARBER COUNCIL

After seven years of dedicated service, Keith Conniford is retiring as Registrar of the Hair and Barber Council. Keith is being replaced as Registrar by Gareth Penn, the current Finance Chairman.

AMANDA LODGE-STEWART ANNOUNCED AS NHBF PRESIDENT

The NHBF have elected Amanda Lodge-Stewart, Director of the Link Training Academy, as the new President. She commented: “As the NHBF President, I will explore issues around business growth and sustainability for the benefit of our employers, business owners and members.”

GOLDWELL BEATS THE RUSH

Multi-award-winning salon group, RUSH Hair, have joined Goldwell as their creative partner. Planning for a huge focus on colour throughout 2023, Joint CEO of RUSH Hair Andy Phouli believes, “Working with Goldwell will give us the perfect blend of creativity and good business sense.”

PRO HAIR ON THE PANEL AT THE YAT FINALS

Pro Hair joined Schwarzkopf Professional for an exciting day of judging the Young Artistic Team finals. Bringing together emerging hairdressing talent from across the country, the day gave the young stylists free rein to showcase their skill, techniques and creativity. The six hairdressing stars chosen to make up the Young Artistic Team for 2023 were: Harry Watson, Tommy Hardy, Cat Cleland, Lisha Roberts, Riley Young and Kaelee Carroll

WELLA IN PARIS

In its first global showcase, Wella Company is partnering with the distinguished Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris to showcase their ‘Des Cheveux et des Poils’ exhibition. Bringing to life the historical, cultural and personal influence hair has made on societal perceptions and appearances through the centuries, the exhibition is opening on 5th April and will run through to 17th September 2023.

REVLON ACCELERATES WITH ANNUAL AWARDS

SIMPLYHAIR SHINES ON STRICTLY

For the third year running, salon supply brand SimplyHair are supporting Strictly Come Dancing

The LiveTour with their wearable hair extensions. Celebrities and Professional Dancers, including Helen Skelton, Dianne Buswell and Nancy Xu Xi, are all wearing SimplyHair’s professional locks throughout the tour.

REST IN PEACE

It is with a heavy heart that we report the sad passing of Jackie Wadeson last month, one of the most respected PRs the industry has ever known. It was this wonderful lady that was responsible for the launch of the British Hairdressing Awards many years ago. Rest in peace Jackie.

Last Month, Revlon Professional brought together its team and portfolio of clients at its annual conference. After, the much-anticipated Accelerate Awards –including titles for Newcomer of the Year and Team of the Year –were presented to Revlon’s standout stars.

RED Alert

Every year, the Wella RED Business Network Live event delivers an annual burst of inspiration and this year it felt extra special as it marked the 25 year anniversary of this iconic event.

More than 200 guests, which included Wella RED members and salon managers and owners, headed to the West Midlands to the stunning Belfry Hotel & Resort for two days of motivational speakers, networking and business building.

Throughout the two days, delegates enjoyed the perfect balance of inspirational content delivered by exceptional motivational speakers, teamed with networking with likeminded managers and business owners and plenty of entertainment.

Industry face, Dom Lehane, hosted the two-day conference, introducing the impressive line-up of guest

speakers. Each one had a compelling story to tell, with anecdotes that contained plenty of life changing advice, both on a professional and personal level.

Highlights included a thought-provoking talk from entrepreneur, Priya Lakhani OBE, whose diverse career enabled her to share plenty of business building advice with the audience. “As a business owner you only ever feel two things, euphoria and terror. My message to you is either disrupt or be disrupted,” she said.

Communications Coach, Richard Newman, delved into the way we communicate with our teams, with practical advice on ways to improve team engagement.

Author and entrepreneur, Sam Conniff Allende spoke about ‘being more pirate’, doing things differently and breaking the rules to make change for

A motivational event well worth the visit.

“There are only two things that stop people in business: Fear and admin.”

Sam Conniff Allende

Sam Conniff Allende

Richard Newman

Sir Steve Redgrave

Oli France

Caspar Berry

Linda Moir

Priya Lakhani OBE

the better. “Rule breaking is not the risky way to act, it’s the responsible way,” he said.

Bringing the conference back to the reality of salon life, a panel of salon owners and business gurus lead an interesting discussion, covering topics ranging from price increases to team resilience and retention to deposits.

Olympian Sir Steve Redgrave closed the first day as he touched on topics such as perseverance and teamwork as he talked through his story of becoming an olympic athlete. “To be the best, you basically have to train more than everybody else, do more work than everybody else and try harder than everyone else” he said.

The speakers on day two included Caspar Berry who spoke about risk taking, decision making and embracing uncertainty, whilst customer service expert Linda Moir shared her top tips having previously headed up the award-winning customer service at Virgin Atlantic. “When crew satisfaction goes up, the customer satisfaction goes up. Create the culture inside the team that you want customers to see,” she said.

Finally, adventurer and expedition trailblazer, Oli France, relayed his life experiences and his moving journey to conquer his dreams. “Everything is a matter of perspective and we have the power to change it. Sometimes the only thing that is stopping us from success is us.” he said.

To celebrate its 25th anniversary in true Wella style, delegates enjoyed a celebration dinner with entertainment and dancing into the early hours.

The Wella RED Business Network Live 2023 event delivered the perfect combination of business ideas and networking opportunities, with plenty of inspiration for guests to take back to their salons and make 2023 a great year in business.

THE LOVE OF COLOUR

INDOLA celebrates true colour lovers with the relaunch of their much-loved PCC Assortment Having already provided a tried and trusted technology to hairdressers worldwide, the PCC range has been upgraded with a new look and new colour shades, whilst retaining the same high-performing, vegan formula. Offering an intermixable, compact

colourmemo

conversation on colour

The Competition is on!

Welcoming ALL hairdressers, championing professional excellence, and celebrating hair artistry, the 2023 L’Oréal Colour Trophy marks not only 67 years of an iconic event, but an exciting evolution in the journey of the longest running live hairdressing competition in the world. This year, the mission is simple: to embark on a quest to uncover talent from all corners of the UK and Ireland. The closing date for entries is 10pm on Monday 17th April 2023. www.rdr.link/HAG003

For the blondes out there, ‘Cream’ is the trend for 2023. Soft, creamy blondes with multi-blend shades will be popular throughout the next 12 months –high shine with lots of gorgeous light reflections. I see a shift coming with colourists using more high-lift shades and level 9/10 shades.

Get the Look with Marlon Hawkins...

Working with their natural parting, take a radial section from ear to ear, separating the front to the back. Take large triangular sections, working from diagonal and horizontal partings to create the section. This creates a seamless result which marries the two colours together.

Alternating the colours between the sections, apply L’Oréal Professionnel iNOA 5.26 and 6.20 plus blue mix tone. This showcases how you can manipulate Viva Magenta on different level bases, so any client of any depth and texture can wear this fashion-forward colour. When coming to the front section, use opposite alternating shades on either side. This means clients can wear this versatile look in different ways –showcasing that lighter, more true Viva Magenta, or a deeper and more shadowed shade to their parting.

A GLOWING GRADUATION...

Introducing the Wella Colour Higher Level Diploma, a brand-new opportunity for stylists to take an even deeper dive into the world of colour. Through learning intricate industry details, this 18-month education course arms professionals with the most in-depth colour qualification available. Following the intensive learning journey, students will graduate at Glasgow University. www.rdr.link/HAG004

COLOUR YOUR CONSULTATION...

Colour expert Carolyn Newman guides us through her 5 steps to a perfect consultation:

1. EFFECTIVE QUESTIONING AND HAIR HISTORY

Create a set of consistent questions to get everything you need from both regular and new clients.

2. COLOUR PERSONALITY

By discussing your client’s personal style, you can determine product choice and colour technique. You can then decide whether they are:

A Whisper Client:

Likes a soft and natural look.

A Talk Client:

Likes a visible look and accessorises their style, they will flirt with change but in a classic way.

A Scream Client:

Loves to change their hair regularly and will change clothes and make-up to work with it.

3. EXPERT DIAGNOSIS

Skin depth, tone and face shape analysis. You can check your client’s depth by looking at their natural hair, eye and skin colour, using a colour fan to assess whether cool or warm tones best suit them. This will help you fulfil client expectations successfully.

4. COLOUR PLACEMENT

Based on your steps above,you can decide where to place your technique and colours.

5. COLOUR CHOICE AND MAINTENANCE

This provides you with the skills to discuss long-term maintenance and home care advice with your client.

TRACEY ANN SMITH

Styling Sustainably

Adding the very first styling product to its award-winning, plant-derived Botanical Repair range, Aveda launches the Bond Building Styling Creme. 98% naturally derived, and powered by the Botanical Repair 3-layer hair repair technology, this multi-benefit styling creme strengthens and repairs from the inside out, while giving a smooth, lasting style.

www.rdr.link/HAG006

COLOUR WITH A CONSCIENCE

Get to know MC2, the friendliest permanent colour in the Sens.ús colour house. Designed to add shine, softness and colour durability, MC2 is free from ammonia, parabens, PPD, silicones and added resorcinol. This eco-conscious colour range is available in 91 shades, producing excellent results from a sustainable brand that has the planet and its people in mind.

www.rdr.link/HAG005

memo Sustainable

Making

Waves

Green Salon Collective continue to make a positive impact on the industry and to the planet. To date, through their professional salon network and recycling at industry events, the campaigners have already saved 200 tons of waste from going to landfill.

VEGAN VITALITY

Banbury Postiche has launched a new CBD range to battle the extreme dryness of the head that can be caused by chemotherapy. Combining the naturally soothing and hydrating properties of Aloe Vera with the anti-inflammatory benefits of CBD, the 100% Vegan skincare products are delicately crafted to soothe dry and itchy skin, and ease irritation for people undergoing cancer treatments.

www.rdr.link/HAG007

Eco Warriors

As part of ALFAPARF Milano Professional commitment to reducing its ecological footprint and CO2 emissions, the brand’s long-established range will now feature changes to its packaging and formulas. This includes increasing their recyclability even further by removing the metallic finish on the shampoo and mask caps, as well as incorporating both vegan and biodegradable formulas.

WE STAND FOR REGENERATION

Davines has launched its first global social-environmental initiative, We Sustain Beauty. Built on the brand’s deeply rooted heritage of sustainability, the movement aims to tackle climate action by raising awareness of the importance of biodiversity and regenerative organic agriculture.

As a symbolic gesture of its efforts to tackle climate action, Davines has created a Manifesto Product, WE STAND/for regeneration. This limited-edition shampoo and body wash is 100% plastic neutral product certified, carbon natural and contains 94.2% of biodegradable ingredients. www.rdr.link/HAG008

Net Zero Now

L’OréalProfessionnel and Net Zero Now, the climate action platform, have partnered to develop an industry-first initiative, the Net Zero Salons Programme. With approximately 31,000 hair salons up and down UK high streets – and with studies estimating an average salon appointment produces 3.1kg of greenhouse gas emissions – the hairdressing industry must take action in reducing its environmental footprint. The Net Zero Salons Programme guides salons through the process of calculating, tracking and reducing greenhouse gas emissions through tailored carbon reduction plans, with the ultimate ambition of certifying as a “Net Zero Salon”.

Easy on the Earth

Eco-friendly towel manufacturer, Easydry, has announced the launch of a brand-new, state of the art website. Providing an online resource to educate the public on sustainability, the accessible website navigation allows visitors to efficiently browse through the company’s ‘Eco Mission.’ With the purpose of further reducing its carbon footprint, the website’s automated order process now allows members to sign up for monthly subscriptions of their favourite products. www.rdr.link/HAG009

LOVE TO LEARN

WELOVE

6 Positive Points from Luke Ormsby

● Be likeable and personable to both your staff and clients; creating a safe and happy

business

● Push yourself to get in the arena, wherever that may be.

● Clap for the success of others;

Dan Mewies

BO thTake your time to evaluate all avenues before making any decisions, it is key to avoiding mistakes.

Always remain focused on your goals for the future, this will keep you motivated when

DON’T...

Splash the cash; be smart when it comes to finances by ensuring you have funds saved to cover anything unexpected or for emergencies. Make quick decisions; these can often lead to mistakes, so evaluate your thoughts before committing to something. Grow too quick, too soon; whilst growth is amazing, elevating a business is a gradual process. Suddenly doubling the workload can have a negative effect on both you and your business.

– the new, brand-neutral education platform designed for hair professionals around the world – has recently launched their

an open CONVERSATION

Mental health education for hairdressers, providing them with the tools to talk.

Will Brown, of Will Brown Hair in Henlow, is an award-winning salon owner who has achieved success whilst living with some debilitating mental health issues. He wants to promote his message that you can still be a successful business-person, entrepreneur and colleague whilst having daily battles with your mind. Oly Newton is an experienced motivational speaker and Mental Health First Aid trainer through the MHFA. Having experienced severe mental health issues for the duration of his life, Oly now motivates and inspires audiences as he shares his experiences from the dark into the light.

Together, they want to deliver this important message to ALL hair professionals so you can learn how to identify, understand, empower and support your clients and colleagues.

Founder of Open Chair, Will is passionate about ensuring the hair and barbering industries are equipped in delivering vital communication skills when it comes to mental health. “These industries are the pillars of our communities, with clients often using our services to open up to us,” he says.

After a long journey overcoming dark battles with OCD, anxiety and ADHD, Will released a video sharing his experiences in the hope that people will be inspired to talk about their mental health. A frank, honest conversation from two men in their thirties has created a social stir. “The

Six reasons why your team would benefit from this Mental Health First Aid training:

■ Credentials. Upon completion, each staff member would receive accredited certification from Mental Health First Aid England. These should sit pride of place in your salon!

■ Personalised. This new initiative is designed for all hair professionals in a specially designed format for our amazing industry!

■ Experience. These courses are designed by an award-winning hair salon owner and an international motivational speaker & MFHA instructor. Both of them have been

directly affected by debilitating mental health issues throughout their lives.

■ Variety. With two course formats, we can suit the diaries of busy hair professionals. Online courses start on Wednesday 5th April 2023 1-5 pm and run for four weeks. Or, in-salon courses can be requested for 10 or more participants, where we can deliver the content over two days in your preferred location.

■ PR. Shout about it! Your salon and your team would be leading the way in offering your clients the vital

a hairdresser is going to dealwith a client going through mental health issues at same point. Now is the time to educate yourself and your team to identify and communicate. Do not delay, wasting time is wasting lives!”

The mission of Open Chair is to provide all hair professionals with the tools to communicate openly and effectively about mental health. Hairdressers and barbers have some of the deepest connections within a community. Open Chair believes that now is the time for these professionals to learn the essential skills needed to offer their clients effective advice and reassurance. As Will explains, “Open Chair is here to change the industry; whetheryou’re a salon owner looking to invest in your team’s mentalwell-being, an individual member of a team looking to learn a vital new skill or a freelance stylist or barber aiming to provide that extra level of support for their clients.”

Open Chair, works alongside Lights On Mental Health and provides a safe and inspiring learning environment through a variety of course formats.

opportunity to open up in a safe and comfortable environment. A key message in building trust between stylist and client.

■ Business. With your MHFA certificates you will see increased staff longevity, reduced sick days for your team, increased client loyalty to your brand and a new avenue to gain clients. The power of increased compassion and understanding towards mental health will create a whole new ethos around your brand.

For more information go to:

www.open-chair.co.uk

YouTube Link: https://youtu.be/_jbNlutqiaE

Instagram: @openchairtalking

Instagram: @willbrownhair

We invited Karoliina to catch up with some of the established and emerging female role models that are breaking boundaries, challenging perceptions and providing incredible inspiration for our future generation of stylists. Enjoy her in-depth chats on life, work and all things HAIR!

This issue, Karoliina sits down with MARNEY LIAN, co-owner and Creative Director of Gritt, London.

HI MARNEY, IT’S GREAT TO MEET YOU. TELL US A BIT ABOUT YOUR CAREER –HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN HAIRDRESSING AND HOW DID YOU GET TO WHERE YOU ARE TODAY?

I started my career at the age of 14 as a Saturday girl, so that’s now 21 years I have been working in salons. I can honestly say I’ve never had a change of heart or fallen out of love with hairdressing. I’ve worked in small boutique salons to big chains, but I finally took the plunge to be self-employed and, shortly after, I decided to open Gritt in 2021.

IT SOUNDS LIKE IT WAS A BIG STEP FOR YOU SETTING UP ON YOUR OWN. WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR BIGGEST LESSONS?

Yes, it was a total life-changing step. My top three biggest lessons would be: ask for help when you need it; be your own person and finally, you can’t please all of the people all of the time. And that’s ok!

KAROLIINA SAUNDERS is a salon owner, educator, session stylist, multi-award winner, Revlon Creative Artist and current Chancellor of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing. Her love of fashion has taken her all over the world through a jam-packed line-up of stage, photographic, editorial and session work, as well as working backstage at all the major Fashion Weeks.

@karoliinasaunders

WOMAN TO WOMAN

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO SOMEONE THINKING OF TAKING ON A BUSINESS?

A lot of the time as a salon owner, you have to put yourself last. It can be tough! The best advice I can give is: Firstly, make sure you have enough support outside of the salon and secondly, never cut corners.

TELL US ABOUT GRITT, LONDON

Well, the definition of ‘gritt’ is a personality trait characterised by perseverance and passion for achieving long-term goals. ‘Gritt’ entails working strenuously to overcome challenges and

maintaining effort and interest over time despite failures, adversities, and plateaus in progress. That sums up the ethos of the salon. It was born out of hard work and determination. We’re based in Clapham and we offer a 5-star service with an amazingly talented team of stylists. Gritt is anything but the norm – our aim is to be the most original and unique salon space in London.

IT’S A GREAT LOOKING SALON. HOW DID YOU GO ABOUT DESIGNING IT? Actually, I can’t take credit for the design. My business partner Charles put a lot of

Marney Lian

time and effort into creating our Gritt look. The salon was designed around how to offer the best experience possible, and we spent a lot of time creating the perfect salon ambience for our clients to relax, be themselves and enjoy their time with us. Our dream was to achieve a look that epitomised luxury.

WHAT WOULD YOU SAY ARE THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES OF MANAGING A TEAM?

Truthfully, managing a team is a lot about YOU keeping salon morale high. Your team will feed off of your energy so being positive every single day while working on the shop floor can be hard sometimes –especially on days when you’re not feeling 100 per cent –but it’s essential. Meeting all your team’s expectations while teaching and mentoring them can also be challenging in its own right.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR CREATIVE WORK AND HOW DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION FOR IT?

Fortunately, the salon is made up of a creative team, so we feed off each other. I find lots of inspiration in my day-to-day life - I bring it to the team, then we brainstorm and perfect it.

GRITT HAS A GREAT PRESENCE ON SOCIAL MEDIA. WHAT TIPS WOULD YOU GIVE TO ANYONE ELSE ABOUT CREATING CONTENT?

To be totally honest, social media isn’t easy to keep up with. It takes time and

effort. My tips would be to take as many pictures and videos as you can and practice angles and your lighting. No one shot fits all and you will need to make time to work on content - that won’t always be during work hours.

CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR NOMINATION FOR LONDON HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR IN 2022. WHAT PLANS HAVE YOU GOT FOR ENTERING COMPETITIONS THIS YEAR AND WHAT WOULD A BIG WIN MEAN TO YOU?

Thank you so much! What an honour it was to even finalise with some of the most talented people in the industry. It’s always been a dream of mine and this year we’re going for the win! It would be such a privilege to win such a prestigious award.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE HAIR PRODUCT THAT YOU COULD NOT LIVE WITHOUT?

I could not live without Bumble and Bumble Thickening Dry Spun Texture Spray and their Prêt à Powder is my ultimate fave.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO YOUR 16-YEAR-OLD SELF?

I would tell my 16-year-old-self that you’re not going to wake up one day with your life exactly where you want it to be. It’s a constant battle; there’s no substitute for hard work.

HOW DOES OUR INDUSTRY LOOK TO YOU AT THE MOMENT AND HOW DO YOU SEE THE NEXT COUPLE OF YEARS?

I feel the industry looks the most exciting it has ever been! There’s so much new, raw talent, and it’s incredible how far we have come on education for all hair types. I see us being much more of an inclusive industry and stylists finally gaining the respect they deserve for the work they do.

HOW COULD WE MAKE OUR INDUSTRY MORE ATTRACTIVE FOR YOUNG PEOPLE TO JOIN?

We need to be keeping apprentices at the forefront of our creative work - they are the future. We need to be showing them all the diverse ways that hairdressing can be a life-long career journey and how there are so many pockets of our industry that they can explore.

HOW DO YOU MAKE TIME FOR YOUR SELFCARE?

Ha ha, if I’m honest, I’m still struggling with finding a balance. But I’m working on it!

WHO ARE THE HAIR HEROES YOU LOOK UP TO?

My hair heroes are my team. They come in to work rain or shine and literally turn around amazing hair all day, every day, regardless of what’s happening in their personal lives. Heroes!

Crisis TALKS

As we settle into 2023, how are you encouraging clients to part with their hard-earned cash? Whether cash or card – is tipping behaviour changing? We spoke to some seasoned salon owners about their payment preferences and tipping points.

Game Changer

Sean Hanna

Track and Trace

seanhanna Salon Group for L’Oréal Professionnel

“Society as a whole is starting to be cashless, and for the most part this is a positive thing: Cash is less secure and expensive to deal with at the banks, and digital payments are easier to monitor and track. Typically, digital payments also go into your account faster and if there are any enquiries afterwards from a client, there is a proper record of payment. Cash did make the tipping issuer easier to deal with, but these days clients should be offered the chance to give a tip when paying their bill; ideally your card payment machine can offer the option for a tip. Tips captured in this way need to be dealt with by the salon and the tips paid to the stylist as part of their wages. Clients can also tip directly to the stylist with cash if they wish. We have tried using tipping apps, but these weren’t popular with clients. It’s important that the salon makes every effort to ensure a cashless payment system doesn’t deprive the stylist of an opportunity to receive tips.”

On the Cards

Robert Kirby

Robert Kirby London

HOB Salons

“As an industry, we’ve seen a lot of clients grow their hair and are now wearing it in a ponytail or just clipped up, therefore dragging their appointments out for much longer; instead of coming in for their haircuts every six to eight weeks, they are coming in every 10-12 weeks. But as we see shorter hair becoming more popular with celebrities, will this change? To combat clients’ behaviour of stretching their appointments out longer, and to drive them in more frequently, we introduced an on-the-day blow dry for £20. This was such a game changer that we have had clients coming in twice a week. We decided as a business some three years ago to go cashless. We haven’t found a huge impact on our team’s tips as there are tipping machines which work in a similar way to credit card machines.”

“The days of a cash-based business and creative accounting are long gone. For as long as we have had our businesses, it’s been all card sales; we have quite a high guest spend per client, so it’s all cards. Tipping is between the stylists and the clients. Occasionally people have no cash, but will come back after visiting a cashpoint or tip double the amount the next time they come in. We have a high amount of regulars so they know tipping is cash and the bill is a card. I personally think the pandemic has actually (ironically) helped the salon world out. Don’t get me wrong, it was horrendous being closed and all the people who said dye your own hair on social media were quite frankly shocking, but it put working from home behaviours in place which have kind of stayed. Our salons are community-based, people pop out for lunch or bring their laptop. We are definitely busier on the week days then we were pre-Covid.”

Clive Collins

Cash Creative Top of the Tips

Room 97 Creative

“There are two set of clients who come to the salon; those who continue to book frequently and those who stretch out their appointments. Many of our clients come back every 10-12 weeks and have remained loyal to us throughout the turmoil over the last few years. We haven’t gone cashless and we don’t intend to; there are systems that can facilitate this but if our clients want to pay cash who are we to say they can’t? Our team are trained to use appointments as an opportunity to find out client concerns, help them get the best from their hair and look good every day. People’s lifestyles have changed – working from home more, going out less – so we offer advice and services that fit around their new way of living.”

Contemporary Salons for L’Oréal Professionnel

“As we move towards a cashless society, it is certainly easier to do the weekly banking; there are not as many bank branches about these days, so it’s helpful not to have cash in the salon. However, this does have a knock-on effect when it comes to tipping stylists, as clients don’t have cash on them but will ask for cashback from the till. There are platforms for clients to tip, but we haven’t decided to integrate this system into the salons yet. We’ve recently focused on making the salon visit a whole salon experience. The visit is more than a haircut/colour; go the extra mile and all the little things you can do to make each client feel amazing is what’s going to bring them back sooner.”

Cash is King

Reds Hair and Beauty for L’Oréal Professionnel

“Luckily, we haven’t seen a significant behaviour change with our clients in the North East. They may go one or two weeks longer for their root colour, and a few of the older ones have embraced grey, but clients still love coming in for a pamper. Women still want to look and feel good. We haven’t gone cashless and we don’t intend to; I think it’s good to have cash circulating through the economy. Our stylists still receive cash tips for the work they have done and that’s a good thing. As a salon owner I also like receiving a cash tip – it pays for my chocolate cravings!”

MODE Hair, Chipping Campden

“Our salon is a destination salon and our clients come to us because they know they are going to be pampered, made to feel special for the time they are with us and leave feeling a million dollars. As such, they are prepared to pay for that – it’s not just a haircut, but an emotion, a feeling. Of course, some clients have stretched out their appointments, but we have clients that book in regularly and frequently. The pandemic made them realise how much they enjoyed the visit to the salon and how important it is to their wellbeing. We still accept cash in the salon and will continue to do so for as long as our clients want to pay that way. Tipping their stylist is a way they can say a personal ‘thank you’.

Martin Crean

Susan Hall

Marcello Moccia

Alan Simpson

IT’S TIME TO GET ON COURSE

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DON’T HiDE iN THE DARK...

WHAT IS IT?

As a never-ending source of inspiration, a trend hub and a vital marketing tool, Instagram is a major player in the colour stakes. This course is not only designed to teach you how to grow your digital platform and personal brand, it will also illuminate how to use this social presence strategically. During the day, you’ll go behind the scenes on Instagram shoots, before enjoying a hands-on colour and content workshop with live models.

WHEN IS IT?

Manchester: 9th May with Kai Wan

London: 24th May with Nikki Clifford

WHO IS IT?

The day is led by two of the Wella Passionistas; these are social stars and trendsetters who have been hand-picked for having colour credibility, an enviable following and super social skills.

WiLL YOU MAKE THE CUT...?

WHAT IS IT?

This course is designed to teach hairdressers with up to two-years of experience the fundamental principles of cutting, as well as the skills and confidence needed to grow a career in styling. Involving a practical workshop, Daniel will demonstrate the techniques needed to create and shape long hair, ways to execute layers and fringes and styling tips to create the perfect finish.

WHEN IS IT?

Manchester: 20th June

London: 30th May

WHO IS IT?

IS IT FOR YOU?

If you’re looking for guidance on how to jump onto this fastmoving social bandwagon and want to learn how to create some of the biggest colour insta-trends of the moment, then join Wella for an exciting day of hair colouring and content creation.

Passionate about graphic shapes and creating awesome restyles, craft expert Daniel Taylor will provide a brilliant headstart to your cutting career.

IS IT FOR YOU?

If you’re a recently-qualified stylist, someone who is lacking cutting confidence, or perhaps a colourist looking to expand their offering, this course is the very best place to start.

‘CUTTING START’ WITH DANIEL TAYLOR ESSENTIAL / £240 / 1 DAY

‘SOCIAL STAR COLOUR’ WITH KAI WAN AND NIKKI CLIFFORD ADVANCED / £235 / 1 DAY

TWO HEADS ARE BETTER THAN ONE...

‘THE FASCINATING WORLD OF TRICHOLOGY’ WITH MARK BLAKE ADVANCED / £210 / 1 DAY

WHAT IS IT?

Since 50% of all clients suffer from some form of thinning hair or hair

LET’S GET DOWN TO BUSiNESS...

‘SQUAD GOALS’ WITH SIMON HARRIS ADVANCED / £160 / 1 DAY

WHEN IS IT?

Manchester: 28th June

London: 2nd May

WHO IS IT?

Successful Salon Owner and internationally-renowned trichologist, Mark Blake is highly skilled at identifying and treating the underlying causes of issues surrounding hair loss.

IS IT FOR YOU?

If you’re a professional hairdresser who wants to be able to give their clients the best possible advice and

WHAT IS IT?

Since maximising the performance of any salon team takes carefully-honed skills, this course explores ways of setting realistic targets and the importance of rewarding exceptional performance. The day will cover planning, preparing and delivering the perfect appraisal, before teaching you how to plan and run performance reviews.

WHEN IS IT?

Manchester: 15th May

London: 11th September

WHO IS IT?

With a wealth of experience growing successful and profitable hair salons, co-founder of MySalonManager, Simon Harris, provides training and support to enable salon owners and managers to run their salons more effectively.

IS IT FOR YOU?

This course is perfect for all managers, team leaders and business owners responsible for a team of people.

PHIL-ing

IN THE BL ANKS

Each month, businessman, award-winning salon owner and creator of two top-selling haircare ranges, Phil Smith, helps to fill in all of the gaps in your business knowledge. From quick and easy ways to boost your profits, to totally rethinking your business, he’ll be sharing some of the most valuable lessons he’s learnt throughout the course of his successful career…

This issue… 5 ways to CUT COSTS IN YOUR SALON

There’s no avoiding it –everyone is talking about an economy in crisis. It’s a worrying outlook as a business owner, but in my experience, strong businesses are made in tough times. You will inevitably be facing tricky decisions right now, but by tackling them head on, streamlining where you can and keeping your focus on a quality service, you’ll be underpinning your business with strategies that will see you emerge even more resilient on the other side.

PRICE FOR PROFIT

If you haven’t already done your forecasting and gone through your cash flow in detail this year, now is the time. It’s so important to do this regularly –whether business is booming or not. Without a clear picture of what’s coming in and what’s going out, you’ll never be able to price for profit. You should be making a 10–15% profit margin after your other costs have been absorbed. If those margins are looking tight, it might be time to re-evaluate various aspects of your business model – including your pricing structure.

WASTE NOT, WANT NOT

If I were to give you a penny for every drop of wasted colour or product that has gone down the drain, your bottom line would be a very different picture! It can sound pedantic and negative to keep reminding your team to watch their waste, but trust me it makes a difference. Make everyone aware of how much excess product is costing and make it THEIR mission, not just yours, to care about economising.

TAKE STOCK

Be mindful when ordering stock, set realistic budgets and make sure you’re not tieing up too much cash in unwanted products. Running an inventory is vital –luckily, stock management information can be captured in just a click these days with automated salon software. Buy only the products that you require or which your customers purchase the most

WORK SMARTER

No one likes to be rushed, but how long do you allocate for an appointment time and is it realistic? Even if each team member fits in one extra appointment a day, it all adds up. I’m not suggesting cutting corners with customer service, but remember that running your salon as a streamlined business benefits every person in the team. Perhaps we could all work a bit smarter?

LOOK AFTER THE PENNIES

When streamlining your business, it makes sense to tackle the big overheads first – but don’t disregard the small ones. Rent, rates and payroll are the costliest financial burdens of your business, but there are small everyday expenses that should always be reviewed and cost savings that can be made by shopping around for a better deal. A rent review is a great place to start, but knocking off an un-used or redundant subscription will soon add up too.

THE BUSINESS ofBrides

In the third of our bridal series, Teresa Weller, Director of Teresa Weller Hair Art and thebridalhairartists.com, looks at why bespoke bridal services will ensure your clients are head over heels with your proposal.

Made-to-order

Those three lovely little words every bride longs to hear when it comes to making her wedding day the most memorable day of her life. If you offer, or are thinking of offering bridal hair, beware: a one-size-fits-all approach won’t work for you here. It’s crucial you incorporate a personalised approach to your bridal offerings, so each bride feels listened to and catered for. Here’s my six top tips on how:

PORTFOLIO-A-GO-GO:

ONE-SIZE-DOES-NOT-FIT-ALL:

DRESS TO IMPRESS:

First things first: make sure your portfolio and social media have the wedding ‘WOW’ factor –this will give brides-to-be an insight into the kind of styles you have created for previous clients. While their look will undoubtedly be bespoke to their needs, style, and dress, it helps brides to see a visual representation of what you’re capable of and what you can offer.

Features, hair texture, face shape, dress: these are all individual to your client and need to be acknowledged at the consultation so your bride-to-be knows you have their best interests at heart. Make it clear what will and won’t work for them based on your knowledge within this arena. It pays to be upfront from the offset so they know they’re in safe hands.

LISTEN AND LEARN:

While I love to talk and put my brides-to-be at ease, it’s essential that you learn how to truly listen to your bridal clients. Attention to detail is key; you need to take into account your bride’s dress, jewellery, make-up and theme on the day to create a truly beautiful and bespoke style that works in line with this. Listen to their words as well as their body language. Get a feel for them as a person and understand what they truly want, even if they find it hard to communicate initially. Making them feel relaxed and able to trust you is key, as you’ll get to truly know them as a person.

PINTEREST IS YOUR FRIEND:

1 2 3 4 5 6

Pinterest plays a key part in any bridal consultation, both for the trial and on the ‘big day’ itself. We never work without it as it gives both parties a visual representation of what they can expect, so there are no surprises on the day. Words can get lost in translation, so ensure you’re always on the same page with mood boards, colour swatches and images of the dress. This will let you truly impress.

Ask for pictures of your bride’s dress so you can discuss what you have worked on in the past and what will work for them. I always tell my brides that the dress really sets the wedding day hair scene: a round neck dress, for example, will work well with a clean classic chignon, while a more boho, relaxed bride with a simple silk dress would suit a textured braid. While these rules aren’t set in stone, your bride-to-be will trust you know what will work best for them.

STRONGER TOGETHER:

As bridal artists, we know we’re good at what we do. This isn’t ego – we have to be good to facilitate the needs of a client on what is arguably the most important day of their life. But what I’ve found with my experience in the bridal business, is that it really pays to make it a collaborative hair affair. It’s not always about what we know best; I’ve had brides in the past who have come up with additional details to their hairstyle I hadn’t thought of, and vice-versa. Teamwork makes the wedding day dream work.

STYLIST Vs CYBORG

ChatGPT, the AI Chatbot, has everyone talking to it, causing a stir due to its exceptional ability to replicate human writing –but is it capable of the high level of insight and knowledge of a trained hairdresser? Over the next few issues, we will be pitching the savvy cyborg against some of our expert contributors in different areas of our industry.

We start with Wil Fleeson, Co-founder of Root Cause Clinical; the subject is ‘The Aftermath of Covid on Hair’

Not unsurprisingly, COVID-19 can have an impact on the condition of one’s hair. We are noticing more clients coming into salons discussing the fact they have experienced hair loss/hair shedding since contracting the COVID-19 virus. Sometimes this can happen quite quickly, and other times this can happen two to three months after having the virus.

Scientifically known as Telogen Effluvium, this occurs when stressors created by the COVID virus shock and disrupt the hair growth cycle, resulting in an increased and noticeable amount of excessive hair shedding. Many clients can also experience their hair becoming thinner and more prone to breakage.

As a hairdresser, it is important to deal with these topics sensitively, helping the client as much as possible through pointing them in the right direction on how they can rectify the problem and get their hair back to excellent condition.

Not only can the aftermath of COVID cause shedding in the case of Telogen Effluvium, but stress and anxiety arising from the pandemic can cause hair loss also. So, it is very important that the problem is correctly diagnosed to recommend an effective treatment.

This is where a dedicated expert/trichologist comes in. As a hairdresser, you can point your clients in the direction of Root Cause Clinical, where they can make a consultation appointment with a professional trichologist. They will receive an informed approach to their diagnosis and a report to share with their hairdresser, who can help review how their hair and scalp improve. All of this can be done in the comfort of the client’s home, via an online portal to allow the client to connect easily with the Root Cause Clinical team.

For more information: www.rdr.link/HAG011

The COVID-19 pandemic has had a significant impact on people’s hair, and one of the hair conditions that has been reported as a result of the pandemic is Telogen Effluvium.

Telogen Effluvium is a hair loss condition that occurs when a large number of hair follicles enter the resting phase (telogen phase) and the hair falls out. This can be caused by various factors, including stress, illness, and hormonal changes.

The COVID-19 pandemic has been a major source of stress for many people, and this stress can trigger Telogen Effluvium. The pandemic has also caused a shift in people’s daily routines, such as changes in diet, sleep patterns, and exercise habits, which can also contribute to hair loss. Additionally, many people have reported a decline in their mental and physical health due to the pandemic, which can also lead to Telogen Effluvium.

It’s worth noting that while Telogen Effluvium can be caused by stress, it is typically a temporary condition, and hair typically regrows on its own within six to nine months. However, it’s important to consult a doctor if you experience sudden and excessive hair loss, as this could be a sign of a more serious underlying condition.

What was the aftermath of COVID on hair, specifically focusing on Telogen Effluvium?

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Education Retail stands

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WE ALL KNOW THE STEREOTYPES, BUT WHAT DO DIFFERENT GENERATIONAL LABELS ACTUALLY MEAN? HERE, A GROUP OF CROSS-GENERATIONAL HAIRDRESSERS TELL US HOW THEY DEFINE THEMSELVES…

ANNE VECK – EDUCATOR

WHAT IS THE BEST THING ABOUT YOUR GENERATION?

I was born in 1962 in France, it was a great time to grow up; we had no real big fears, this was a period of optimism. I never doubted for one minute that I would own my own house and have my salon by the age of 30, even though I left school at 16 to start an apprenticeship... In 2023, us Boomers are still fit and active – but with the benefit of great experience!

WHAT IS A COMMON MISCONCEPTION ABOUT YOUR GENERATION?

One thing that really bugs me is that our generation is blamed for ruining the environment and considered digitally illiterate, whilst also having it easy and being too old to do anything! In the 1970s and 80s, we baby boomers led what was then called the “ecology” movement to address air pollution, and our strong commitment to environmental causes continues to this day. So what we grew up in an analogue world – Steve Jobs and Bill Gates are both baby boomers!

BOOMERS –1946-1964

INANCH EMIR – INANCH LONDON

WHAT IS THE BEST THING ABOUT YOUR GENERATION? Our music for sure! There was more effort put into the lyrics and more meaning behind the songs. Today’s music is just so basic and in years to come it will be forgotten about – unlike our music where the songs are being re-released all the time!

WHAT IS A COMMON MISCONCEPTION ABOUT YOUR GENERATION?

We are apparently not social media savvy! That might be true to a certain extent, BUT we are certainly more “social”! Today’s younger generation seem to be stuck on their phones all day with very little social interaction with family and friends – other than communicating “digitally”.

THE GENERA

ROB EATON – RUSSELL EATON

GARY HOOKER – HOOKER

& YOUNG

WHAT IS THE BEST THING ABOUT YOUR GENERATION?

When I think back to when I started out in the industry, to be successful in the salon was all about making connections in person; learning how to talk to people and build relationships was an invaluable skill that I was built on. Some relationships were easy to build, and some were a lot harder, but every single one of them taught me a lot. Many of these relationships have lasted my whole career, with many evolving into great friendships too. I wouldn’t change that for the world. I think there was a strong belief in my generation that you had to prove yourself; there was always someone waiting in the wings to take your spot, so you really had to keep moving forwards.

WHAT IS A COMMON MISCONCEPTION ABOUT YOUR GENERATION?

I think probably that people think we are miserable and moan about how things were for us - but that is not true. I wouldn’t change how things were for me, but I do think it’s great that salon working practices are far more supportive these days and more reactive to what people need. Boomers are all about adapting and improving things for all the generations after us, so I would definitely challenge the misconception that we don’t want change – we are part of the change for sure. For my part, I feel that is a huge privilege.

WHAT IS THE BEST THING ABOUT YOUR GENERATION?

We are typically described as being resourceful, independent and keen to maintain a positive work-life balance (at least that’s what it says when you google it!). Watching my parents working hard to provide for me whilst growing up definitely shaped my working attitude as an adult; I think if you grow up around a family business, you see, learn and experience things without really realising it; some of those things have stuck with me ever since.

Being an 80s child, and growing up as technology began to explode, hugely affected our generation. We saw the rise of MySpace, Facebook and all social channels, as well as the reality TV shows that completely changed how we communicate today. For me, this is good and bad. I sometimes think back to times when life just seemed less complicated than the social-obsessed world we now live in now, but I also feel lucky to have experienced this period too. I do feel that our generation definitely values the modern world we live in, but it’s the more-traditional values of hard work, dedication and resilience that make our successes.

As for the work-life balance …who knows what that means?!

MELISSA TIMPERLEY – MELISSA SALONS

WHAT IS THE BEST THING ABOUT YOUR GENERATION?

I LOVE being a millennial and I think our generation has got a bad rep for no reason. We are the generation that was born into a technological world; we are considered more progressive, creative and forward-thinking than generations before us.

WHAT IS A COMMON MISCONCEPTION ABOUT YOUR GENERATION?

Millennials get called entitled and lazy, but I think our generation has had such a positive impact on a lot of different aspects. For example, we are the generation that questions so called ‘norms’; we use our voice not just to communicate, but to take proactive steps towards change.  I believe we are the first generation who truly accept diverse cultures, races and religions.

CHRISTOPHER LAIRD – NOVEMBER COLLECTIVE

WHAT ISTHE BEST THING ABOUT YOUR GENERATION?

It has to be how open our generation is to learning new things. The world we grew up in was always evolving and changing - and we’re not fazed by this. In fact, we’ve learnt to embrace change in a really positive way.

WHAT IS A COMMON MISCONCEPTION ABOUT YOUR GENERATION?

That Gen Z are lazy and entitled! We are given such a bad rep for being work shy and spoilt, but this is not the case at all. I am a firm believer that you only get out what you put in. You have to work hard if you want to be a success; nothing happens overnight. I may only be 25 now, but I’ve been working in the hair industry since I was 13 years old – it has taken 12 years for me to get to this point and it’s been far from easy, but I am so proud of what I have achieved thanks to my work ethic, passion and self-belief.

ATION GAME

DAN MEWIES – MEWIES & CO

WHAT IS THE BEST THING ABOUT YOUR GENERATION?

As a millennial, I think we’ve been at the centre of such a huge industry shift, which is so exciting. Most of us learnt our trade via more traditional, conservative formats, allowing us to soak up methods used by the generations before us. However, we are simultaneously the generation that have welcomed changed, questioned how things are done and helped to carve a new way for the next generation. For one thing, there definitely seems to be less rules these days – which is ultimately a great thing when you’re in such a creative industry!

WHAT IS A COMMON MISCONCEPTION ABOUT YOUR GENERATION?

I think because we’re in between two very different generations, people often assume we haven’t had the same high-quality of training as the generation before us, but that we also don’t understand the generation after us. However, we’re in the best of both worlds. If we can make climbing the career ladder as positive and inspiring as possible, we can help secure the future of our wonderful industry.

DARCEY CLARKE – FREELANCE HAIRDRESSER AND CONTENT CREATOR

WHAT IS THE BEST THING ABOUT YOUR GENERATION?

As the focus shifts from the ‘Millennial generation’ to the ‘Gen Z era’, people look to us as the future of hairdressing. Social media has played such a huge part in the careers of Gen Z stylists. One of the first things I did when I started my career was create a social media page dedicated to my hair work.

These digital platforms also make it easier for individuals to be seen and heard whilst trying to make their mark in a crowded industry. As a generation, we were raised on social media from the beginning – and are generally considered more “tech savvy” than people from the Boomer generation – this has given us a head start to this new way of working.

WHAT IS A COMMON MISCONCEPTION ABOUT YOUR GENERATION?

That we’re only focused on hairdressing through a social media perspective! A common misconception I’ve heard is that our generation focuses too much on how many followers we have and too little on looking after our own clients. This is completely false! You can you have more than one focus and direction in your career, it’s just all about finding that perfect balance.

HAIR ME OUT

IN HIS EXCLUSIVE COLUMN FOR PRO HAIR, ANDREW BARTON SHINES A LIGHT ON SOME OF THE DIFFICULT TOPICS AFFECTING HAIRDRESSING PROFESSIONALS ACROSS THE COUNTRY. IN THIS MONTH’S INSTALMENT, HE EXPLORES THE ONGOING SKILLS CRISIS: WHY ARE FEWER AND FEWER YOUNG PEOPLE JOINING THE INDUSTRY TODAY?

Throughout Andrew’s career, training and developing the success of others has always been a top priority – leading him to create the ABLE scholarship programme that offers training services and further education to hairdressing colleges – however, the national interest in courses like this is rapidly decreasing. Andrew investigates the worrying decline in new apprentices…

Like many, my career started as an apprentice in my small village hometown. Despite its size, I was taught exacting standards of hairdressing and customer service, and was inspired from an early age to be the best that I could be. Without a doubt, it was my apprenticeship that propelled my career and sparked my ambition to achieve success. Since then, with the various teams of people I’ve worked with, I have nurtured generations of hairdressing apprentices to reach their full potential; working side by side with students to teach, care and share knowledge.

However, right now there is a reported skills crisis, with fewer people coming into the industry every year. On top of this, from older generations, there is a constant noise of “it wasn’t like that when I was an apprentice.” I want to encourage others to think of how we can make hairdressing apprenticeships more attractive; how can we – as managers, teachers and leaders – be more aware of a generation’s needs. I remember how excited and engaged I was to be first learning and creating hair; I want the apprentices around me to feel the same.

WHAT IS AN APPRENTICESHIP?

An apprenticeship is a paid job where the employee learns and gains valuable experience. Alongside on-the-job training, apprentices spend at least 20% of their working hours completing classroom-based learning with a college or training provider. This leads to a nationally recognised qualification.

Apprentices are paid £4.81 per hour, however someone over the age of 19 in the second year of their apprenticeship must be paid the National Minimum Wage or National Living Wage.

WHAT CAN AN APPRENTICE OFFER TO THE TEAM?

The opportunity to develop a workforce with skills associated to the salon’s brand values and reputation, instilling the company’s culture from the start.

With an integrated plan for each apprentice, there is the opportunity for high achievers to emerge within the salon business in a relatively short period of time.

This also brings the opportunity for team members to further develop their own careers and skills through passing on knowledge. Whilst one specific member of the team should be responsible for apprentice training and development, each and every team member also has a role to play in bettering the apprentice – whether that be a specialist skill such as hair-up or hair extensions, or to be a shadow for the apprentice to understand how someone builds a successful column or cares for clients at the backwash.

Apprenticeships also provide an environment to connect with the community. Community is a valued commodity at the heart of many salons, with successful businesses having used apprentices to gain great PR across the country for decades. Hopefully, the students that you train will grow up to become professional, successful

hairdressers and tell all of their clients about you.

Clients are also impressed with the gesture of salon owners employing and nurturing apprentices. The key to recruiting more apprentices is to focus on the fundamental benefits of a career in hairdressing; this ensures that students have something to aspire to later down the line.

Training to become a hairdresser is an opportunity to build a professional, rewarding and lucrative career with an array of benefits, including:

• Salon ownership or franchising.

• Management.

• High earning potential.

• Travel opportunities.

• Opportunities to teach, train and mentor others.

• Creative pathways, including stage work, fashion show styling and styling for photo shoots.

• Participation in local and national hairdressing competitions.

• The fun and camaraderie involved in being part of a team.

• An opportunity to keep up-to-date with fashion and beauty trends.

• Continual professional development through training.

• Higher level qualifications.

• The chance to gain an admired reputation as a great stylist in the area.

• The privilege to become a State Registered Hairdresser and use SRH in your title.

Of course, it’s easy to focus on the negatives, and we can all share stories of when apprenticeships have gone wrong, but an apprentice is an investment in time; it may not always work out, but with a little planning and consideration, an apprentice should be an asset. It’s where most of the stars of today’s industry first began, and its part of the reason why hairdressing is considered to be one of the happiest professions out there. Change only happens when we

Start, Stay, Stand-out

Do you have what it takes?

Our industry is currently facing a recruitment crisis, with half of all salon businesses unlikely to support apprentices to the end of their course. In the latest State of the Industry quarterly survey published by the NHBF, evidence concludes that recruitment intentions remain worryingly low – over the last three months, 21% of salons have cut back on apprentices, with only 9% definitively planning to take on new apprentices moving forward.

In order to ensure the future survival of this industry, we must fight against the recruitment crisis; the opportunity to train and mentor the future generation is standing right in front of us, and this must be prioritised. Whilst apprentices may be the least experienced members of the team, they can offer refreshing insight and ideas to a business. With a particular appetite for understanding the latest trends and techniques, there are young workers across the country hungry to learn –this knowledge helps to attract a wider, more diverse clientele, whilst also bringing an injection of enthusiasm to the salon floor. What’s more, young and up-and-coming stylists have shown us the power of social media, which has recently become instrumental in the growth of our industry.

Firstly, when it comes to attracting and retaining younger workers, it is crucial to treat your employees as individuals.

In any workplace, there is a huge spectrum of different goals and motivations, the salon floor is no different; whilst some stylists prioritise working with clients and maximising their earnings, others are looking to further their career with education opportunities or session work. It is the responsibility of salon managers therefore, to find out what motivates and drives each employee, before putting together a specific, personalised plan to cater towards individual goals. Ultimately, you must be conscious of each and every worker as an individual and create an environment that caters for everyone.

21%

Head of Education at HOB Academy, JAKE UNGER appreciates the necessity of customised career plans in order to retain younger stylists: ‘‘Our apprentices are required to complete our personalised training programme, where their skills, techniques and confidence are taken to the next level. Having a diverse team allows us to adhere to our key principles: Creativity, Consistency and Service. As each team member holds different qualities, the mix brings a great dynamic to the salon business. I believe it’s incredibly important to know what makes different team members tick.‘

We spoke to a group of salon owners, young stylists and apprentices across the country to hear their suggestions on battling the recruitment crisis. With financial incentives no longer being considered a ruling factor, what does it take to attract new employees to your business?

We try to give our team members a 3-5 year plan, so they have some control over where their career is heading. At the end of the day, we have to help our apprentices realise their own ambitions, not simply what suits us.

OF SALONS HAVE CUT BACK ON APPRENTICES IN THE LAST THREE MONTHS

– JAMIE BROOKS, CO-FOUNDER, BROOKS & BROOKS

Some of my team are driven by career opportunities such as assisting on shoots or shows, while others just want to have a 9-5 job with a busy column. Staff retention is all about knowing your staff member and how to drive them.

– STACEY WHYTE, CREATIVE DIRECTOR, CHEVEUX SALON.

Shadowing someone with experience is the best way for an apprentice to learn the ropes; they won’t just acquire practical hairdressing skills, but through watching other stylists interact with clients, young workers will also absorb a variety of equally-important soft skills too. In order for mentors to successfully support, inspire and teach apprentices, they must, first and foremost, be supportive and approachable.

Prioritising communication in his mentorship programmes, ALEX THADDEUS, owner of Alex Thaddeus Hairdressing, understands the importance of an empathetic manager: ‘Communication is a key factor in creating a harmonious working environment. A team WhatsApp group, purely for salon activity, is a convenient way to keep up to date. I’ve also found that quarterly 1-1 chats help the team feel valued and listened to. A safe space for them to voice their career goals and any concerns they have.’

Part and parcel of providing encouraging, sensitive mentorship is ensuring you adapt mindsets and behaviours to the needs of younger generations. HELLEN WARD, Co-founder of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa, has adopted a particularly flexible approach when it comes to training young people: ‘Understanding a different generation is never easy, but it very much helps that my children are now young adults –I often run dilemmas about my apprentices by them first. I allow my younger workers unpaid leave to travel or take gap years, offering them the opportunity to pick their careers back up when they return.’

A key strategy for mentors to support and nurture their apprentices is found through fostering a healthy work-life balance. An increasingly popular way salons are striving to encourage this is through the four-day work week. CALLY BORG, owner of Cally Borg Hair, is a particular advocate for the importance of time away from work:

Burnout isn’t cool for anyone, and let’s be honest, if we are feeling good, we are more productive, and our staff will be too! I make it a priority that my younger stylists have a healthy balance; they both work four days a week and no evenings or weekends. The girls work hard in the salon, and they deserve to have a break, and what happens when they do? They come back refreshed and ready to go!

A mentor should be someone who is going to be patient and empathetic with the apprentice and who will enjoy the responsibility of being a mentor.

Another simple way you can reinforce a positive work-life balance amongst your younger stylists – and subsequently maximise their productivity – is through introducing them to the wider industry. Don’t let your apprentices exist in a salon bubble; through taking them along to industry events, allowing them to witness hairdressing stars at work and showcasing the glamorous reality that results from working hard in our industry, you are encouraging young team members to create a clear vision of their goals and aspirations.

TINA MACK, CO-FOUNDER OF MACK HAIRDRESSING, IS PASSIONATE ABOUT EXPOSING HER YOUNGER STYLISTS TO NUMEROUS INDUSTRY EVENTS:

As a creative bunch they all need the opportunity to express themselves out of the norm. We endeavour each year to offer a mix of opportunities that all the team can attend, educate, and enjoy, specifically through industry exhibitions, fashion events, awards evenings, group-training days and social occasions.

ROBERT KIRBY, OWNER, ROBERT KIRBY LONDON

However, when it comes to apprenticeships, it is not just the standard of education that is important, but the attitude of the mentors.

I think having a mentor who regularly gives feedback and helps guide us along the way would be really beneficial. It’s also good having a supportive team who all are willing to help when feeling confused by something and take time to explain it.

However, whilst it is great to hear the tried and tested ways of retaining younger workers from industry-experts, we believe it is equally – if not more – important to voice the opinions of the apprentices themselves. We spoke to young salon workers across the country to find out exactly what they believe needs changing in industry mentorship programmes.

Firstly, whilst financial security is most often the greatest incentive for any new job, many apprentices agree that offering high wages is no longer considered the deciding factor. Having spoken to a variety of young salon workers, we weren’t surprised to learn that the quality of education and the attitudes of mentors are equally important elements in influencing retention rates.

To improve education and training we have to be inspiring and be inspired to educate, it is a two-way street.

– ROMAN SYS, STYLIST, BROOKS & BROOKS

For Hannah Young, a graduate stylist and colour technician at Roar Hair and Beauty, she values guidance that is compassionate and reassuring:

Whilst attempting to increase apprenticeship rates from a salon level is necessary and beneficial, in order to solve this recruitment crisis, we must also take a step-back and consider the issue from the parameters of the wider industry. Ultimately, to increase the attraction and retention of young stylists, hairdressing needs to be more respected as a career option for young people.

As a whole, I would like our industry to be respected as a creative career option. But for that to happen, we need to respect ourselves and each other. Starting from assistant level through to stylists and directors, we need continued growth and ongoing education, providing staff with realistic wages on which they can live. Our industry has the most diverse opportunities, and this should be celebrated more.

It seems this idea of transforming opinions and raising awareness within the industry is shared with apprentices up and down the country. ROSE LEONARD, an apprentice at Room 97 Creative in Leeds, expresses similar concerns about the need to change stereotypical attitudes:

I started my apprenticeship two years ago and I love my job; it’s a great career choice, but not many people know that. I think awareness needs spreading about hairdressing as it’s not just a job to do if you can’t do anything else, but people my age still think that. I know that in five years time I’ll have my own successful column and be a versatile stylist with lots of clients.

Well, as apprenticeships offer a professional alternative to other forms of higher education, many salons are now choosing to source their talent from local schools and colleges. For example, LEAH DURRANT, Owner of the Hair Salon and Beauty Retreat, spends lots of her time delivering hairdressing talks to students: “Our salon works with our local secondary schools on career days. We speak to the Year 10 pupils about what the industry entails, apprenticeship opportunities, wages and expectations for a salon job. We have also hosted ‘Apprentice for the Day’ sessions, where we invite anyone who is thinking of a career in hairdressing to experience salon life firsthand. Throughout the day, we run demos, talk about the hair industry as a whole and the varying roles and job types available. We then allow the students to practise on dolls heads; this gives them a feel for the work, letting them evaluate if this is something they would like to do.’

ROMAN SYS, a graduate colour artist at Brooks Brooks, believes we need to encourage change in the way our industry is perceived by younger generations:

So, we have outlined the many different reasons why apprentices are necessary to the functioning of any salon – and to the overall survival of the industry as a whole – and you have had a taste of the variety of ways businesses can alter their programmes and attitudes to increase the attraction and retention of younger stylists. That leaves one final question – where can your salon scout these young workers from in the first place?

OF SALONS ARE DEFINITIVELY PLANNING TO TAKE ON NEW APPRENTICES THIS YEAR

Authority in Blonde

Schwarzkopf Professional is taking its high-performance Bonding Technology to the next level, allowing hairdressers to step up their blonding skills with the revamped BLONDME colour line.

Addressing the diverse needs of blondes, BLONDME has taken it's Bonding Technology to the next level with a new Anti-Metal Bond Protection Technology, enabling hairdressers to master any blonde challenge. This results in the most stunning blonde looks for every individual client and proves that, with BLONDME, there is a blonde for everyone irrespective of skin tone, hair colour, age, gender or lifestyle.

Blonde is BIG

DID YOU KNOW? Blonding services make up over 60% of a salon’s colour revenue which is why YOU NEED to work with the very best blonding system! Step up Schwarzkopf Professional’s BLONDME colour range, which has been revamped to provide you with fantastic innovation and the powerful performance you require, with new and improved lightening and colouring products to make your salon THE premium blonde expert.

Lowdown on the Lighteners

Schwarzkopf Professional’s BLONDME new and improved lightener portfolio with integrated Anti-Metal Bond Protection.

BLONDME Premium Lightener 9+

Improved high-performance powder lightener with less swelling and great lift.

BLONDME Clay Lightener

Optimised clay lightener specially designed for freehand techniques.

BLONDME Precision Lightener

NEW swell-control lightener for precise regrowth services, with up to 7 levels of lift.

BLONDME Bleach & Tone

Lightener additives for lightening and neutralising in one simple step.

Cue the Colouration

Schwarzkopf Professional’s BLONDME new and improved colouration portfolio with integrated Anti-Metal Bond Protection.

BLONDME Pastel Toning

Nine intermixable pastel toning shades designed to enhance and neutralise hair bases 8–10.

BLONDME Deep Toning

Five intermixable deep toning shades designed to enhance hair bases 5–8.

BLONDME Blonde Lifting

Six high-performing lifting shades for up to 5 levels of lift and toning in one step.

BLONDME Lift & Blend

Six lifting and white blending shades for mature blondes, with up to 4 levels of lift.

Damage Limitation

BLONDME Technology

The Dual Bond System, integrated in all BLONDME colour and care products, helps to reduce the damage on all levels. It protects the bonds during chemical processes and helps to create new bonds with the dedicated in-salon and at-home care ranges. The Dual Bond System will give you maximum confidence during colouring and lightening and delight your clients with their perfect blonde time and time again!

Colour – NEW Anti-Metal Bond Protection

The integrated Anti-Metal Bond Protection Technology in all BLONDME colour and lightening products creates a protective layer around the hair bonds for minimised hair breakage. Combined with a new biodegradable Anti-Metal Agent that captures and neutralises metal ions in the hair, it further mitigates hair breakage and optimises the colour result. It means no bonding additives or anti-metal treatments are needed, which saves the all-important time and money in your daily salon business.

In-Salon & Home Care – Bond Creation

3D Bond Creation Technology in all BLONDME in-salon care products creates new 3-dimensional bonds and stabilises the hair structure for long-lasting strength and suppleness.

• Fully Vegan Colouration formulas.

• The new Lightener packaging for safer and easier handling is fully recyclable.

• The colour tubes are made of 100% recycled aluminium and plastic, 93% recycled cardboard and are fully recyclable.

And to further reduce the footprint, Schwarzkopf Professional has removed the measuring scoop out of the lighteners, saving up to 50 tonnes* of plastic per year. ( Fun fact: this is equivalent to 1 Adult Humpback whale or 66 Formula 1 racing cars). There is now a reusable scoop which is 100% recycled material, 100% recyclable material and comes in 99% FSC recyclable packaging.

*Numbers are calculated on the estimated quantities sold in 2023 for Schwarzkopf Professional overall lighteners

Schwarzkopf Professional ’s Dual Bond System.

Alongside being dedicated to the diverse needs of blonding, Schwarzkopf Professional is also committed to reducing the brand’s environmental footprint.

Cover All Blonde Bases

Schwarzkopf Professional delivers BLONDME looks and services enabling you to become The Authority in Blonde! At your fingertips are BLONDME looks and techniques crafted by renowned international blonde colourists that will allow you to translate every blonde challenge into a salon service, impressing your clients and fuelling your creativity.

BLONDE CHALLENGE 1: How to achieve the clearest blonde whilst keeping even the most delicate blonde hair healthy?

Look: Platinum Bounce Technique: Back-to-back foils

Hair Artist: Keya Neal ( “My world opened up when I realised that blondes could live on any skin tone when we change the temperature.”

BLONDE CHALLENGE 2: How to achieve the clearest blonde on even the darkest bases?

Look: Platinum Purity Technique: Back-to-back foils

Hair Artist: Emre Ayaksiz (@emreayaksiz) –I have always taken my inspiration from my clients - matching their own desires with the latest trends is truly inspiring!”

BLONDE CHALLENGE 3: How to lighten the smallest regrowth area, for seamless blonde results?

Look: Regrowth Blonding Technique: Root application

Hair Artist: Maggie Hancock (@maggiemh) –“What fascinates me about BLONDME is its incredible ability to lift even the darkest levels of hair extremely light while maintaining the hair’s

BLONDE CHALLENGE 4: How to create an illuminated blonde?

Look: Melted Balayage Technique: Freehand technique

Hair Artist: Natan Correia (@natancorreia) –“I never stand still; I love being progressive and to re-invent the craft. It’s not just about the creative process and mastering new techniques, it’s also the exchange and progress amongst colleagues that keeps me going.”

BLONDE CHALLENGE 7: How to create bespoke blonde colour results?

BLONDE

CHALLENGE 5: How to lift natural blonde while blending white hair in one step?

Look: Peach Balayage Technique: Freehand technique

Hair Artist:

Josie Vilay (@josievilay) –“I love that BLONDME gives me all the tools I need to succeed behind the chair. If you love how effective the lightener is you need to try out the whole range!”

BLONDE CHALLENGE 6: How to create soft, natural blonde touches on light hair?

Look: Weaved-in Blonde Technique: Classic highlights

Hair Artist: Danilo Bozic (@danilo.bozic) –What fascinates me about blonde is it will never go out of style.”

Look: Grey Blonding Technique: Root application

Hair Artist: Arjan Bevers (@arjanbevers) – “Blondes have more fun! It’s the ultimate colour of summer, of sexiness and self-confidence.”

BLONDE CHALLENGE 8: How to spice up any blonde?

Look: Pastel Blonde Technique: Pastel toning

Hair Artist: Lesley Jennison (@lesleyjennison) – “I absolutely love that the whole BLONDME portfolio covers literally everything you could possibly need when colouring in the world of blonde.”

Boost your BLONDE

Deep dive into the world of Blonding

COURSE 2

All About… BLONDME ESSENTIAL

COURSE 1

The Blonde Expert EXPERT

If you want to hone your craft and develop your status as the ULTIMATE blonde specialist then this course is for you…

Over the course of two days of live demonstrations and practical workshops, you’ll develop your technical know-how and product proficiency to become an expert in all things blonde… and boost your colour business in the process.

Schwarzkopf Professional know that blondes have their own unique challenges, qualities, and quirks, and in this course, will help you become a true blonde boss offering next level skills and services across a full spectrum of blonde looks.

Duration: 2 days

Investment: £450

Ambassador-led: Tim Scott Wright www.rdr.link/HAG013

Make sure you’re creating the most current and commercial looks with a one-day refresher on blonding with Schwarzkopf Professional.

This dedicated one day theory session will explore both BLONDME and IGORA blonding products, with a closer look at the patented bonding technologies and how they empower you to create beautiful blondes with confidence.

You’ll learn which products to use and when, as well as the latest trending shades, placements, and techniques – plus, how to recommend and retail the all-important aftercare for dazzling, healthy blondes.

Duration: 1 day

Investment: £150 www.rdr.link/HAG014

Lights! Camera! Action!

Known for his flawless colour work and immaculately executed photographic collections, Mark Leeson’s iconic style has seen him scoop over 50 national/international awards, including the much coveted British Hairdresser of the Year title.

Mark’s creativity, combined with his interest in inspiring colourists and hairdressers through education, platform shows and collections, signalled a really exciting time for Revlon Professional when he took the role of Global Ambassador.

Proud to be working with a company that encourages strong, confident consumers to express their personality through their hair, Mark’s global presence has gone from strength to strength.

Mark is also renowned for his iconic brand of glamorous, wearable hair, and his passion for mentoring. Pro Hair’s Editor, Nicola Shannon, couldn’t therefore think of a more perfect partner for ‘LIGHTS! CAMERA!

ACTION!’ A new series that will feature Mark guiding two hairdressers from the Revlon Professional portfolio through the ropes, helping to bring their creative vision to life.

“LIGHTS CAMERA ACTION is the salon stylist’s introduction to session work”, says Mark. “We ask the hair stylists to turn up with their favoured tool kit and each are presented with two models – plus the styling portfolio from Revlon Professional (of course!). Throughout the course of the day a collection is created.”

Mark’s credibility is evident in the team he has around him, it’s a strategy which has ensured that they too have gone on to emulate his success –winning multiple awards at the

British Hairdressing Awards in the Newcomer, Men’s, Eastern and Artistic Team categories, as well as many others. This enthusiastic leadership is not only aimed at his existing team either; a Mark Leeson Apprenticeship programme is continuously in full-throttle with Mark’s keen eye on the talent of the future under his generous care and tutoring. His reason for investing in the future of the industry is unequivocal; ‘Life is both tangible and fragile and it is so easy to take so much for granted,’ he says.

“I have always been a firm believer that what you give with the left hand, you receive with the right and I’ve stuck with that philosophy throughout my career.  Although I’ve enjoyed a lifelong career behind the chair – my most stand-out days are ones I’ve spent mentoring up-and-coming individuals.”

Alongside this fabulous opportunity, Revlon retailers also have the opportunity to be on year-long mentorship programmes with the man himself. Visionaries is an amazing concept where up to four individuals are guided through cutting, colouring, presenting and platform work – culminating in their own photographic collection published in the trade press.

Applications are already closed for this year – but do make a note to look out in November when the 2024 Visionary competition will be announced.

“LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION! features Mark guiding two hairdressers from the Revlon Professional portfolio through the ropes to bring their creative vision to life.”

STAR STYLISTS

Emy Roccabella

@ Danilo Giangreco, London. Giuseppe Manco

@ Giuseppe Manco, Winchester, Hants.

STAR DIRECTOR

STAR CAMERAMAN Chris

STAR WARDROBE Clare

STAR MAKEUP Lauren

STAR SOCIAL Bella

STAR PRODUCTS Revlon Professional

LIGHTS! CAMERA! ACTION!

“Mark Leeson is such an amazing all round hairdresser that it was great to work with him and get his direction when it came to ‘enough’! It’s quite difficult on set to know when to leave the hair alone, but he gave me the confidence to do just that.

An absolutely great day!”

Mark Leeson @ Mark Leeson, Global Ambassador, Revlon Professional

Giuseppe Manco

Bulezuik

Frith

Mathis

“Yet another amazing day on set with just some of the fabulous guys and girls from the Revlon Professional portfolio. It was great to see both Emy and Giuseppe put their session-styling skills to the test – they are both very confident hairdressers so were a pure joy to work with.”

The hair was blow-dried with Revlon Professional Style Masters Amplifier Mousse to give the hair lots of body and volume whilst still leaving it touchable. The hair Revlon Professional Style for a natural boost of shine to emphasise the colour and Revlon Professional Style Masters Modular for a flexible medium hold finish.

Revlon Professional Style Masters Curly Orbital was applied to towel-dried hair to create flexible lightweight curls, adding natural volume and shine. The hair was then tousled using Revlon

Professional Style Masters Double or Nothing and Revlon Professional Style Masters Reset for matte texture and hold. Revlon Professional Style Masters Photo Finisher to give strong hold for the fringe area.

Emy Roccabella

“It was a very good opportunity for me to work under the direction of Mark Leeson – I really enjoyed my day. I loved working with my model’s hair texture and the team of professionals throughout the day.”

The hair was blow-dried after applying Revlon Professional Style Masters Amplifier Mousse to achieve ultimate volume and a workable texture and Revlon Professional Style Masters Lissaver to protect it from crimpers. Hair was brushed out and a little Revlon Professional Style Masters Pure Styler was applied to define the structure with natural shine.

WWW.RDR.LINK/HAG015

Mark Leeson

Emy Roccabella

Giuseppe Manco

Giuseppe Manco

Emy Roccabella

Crown of Virtues

Hair – Dan Spiller @ Marc Antoni

Styling – Ellen Spiller

Make-up – Katie Moore

Photographer – Jamie Blanshard Products – JOICO

“This collection was influenced by an Aristotle quote, which describes pride as the ‘Crown of Virtues’; it’s about all the emotion we experience when we’ve achieved something great.”

MODE Hair Artistic Team

THESE NEW PRODUCTS HAVE JUST

DROPPED

1. BOND THE BUILDER...

Offering all the benefits of a bond builder on the go, Uberliss’s new Bond Healing Spray strengthens, moisturises and hydrates all hair types. The Bond Building technology provides heat protection, improved combability and detangling, whilst featuring the healthy ingredients of Betaine, Ceramides, Vitamin E, and Glycidoxy Dimethicone.

www.rdr.link/HAG016

2. RADIAL GA GA…

Introducing the brand-new, environmentally conscious Straw Radial Brush Set from Head Jog. Constructed organically using renewable bio-materials, the brushes have a ceramic-coated barrel with nano material, ensuring a healthy and smooth finish with added shine. Complete with high-heat-resistant bristles, the vegan brushes are available in four different sizes.

www.rdr.link/HAG017

3. LIFE’S LITTLE THINGS...

By popular demand, the Signature Collection from Iles Formula is now available in 50ml travel-sized packaging. Filled with the essentials to instantly transform the hair into luscious, repaired locks, the Minis are free of Sulfates, Silicones, Parabens and Phthalates. This restorative, compact range includes the Iles Formula Shampoo, Conditioner, and Finishing Serum.

www.rdr.link/HAG018

4. A BUNDLE OF JOY…

Encourage clients to look after their hair at home with the Coco Hair Towel from Keune. Incredibly soft and extra-absorbent, this microfibre towel is designed to shorten drying time and protect the hair.

www.rdr.link/HAG019

5. REBUILD, REBOOT, RESTART...

Revlon Professional invites you to unleash your clients’ hair potential and rethink hair hydration from root to tip with the latest addition to the RE/START HYDRATION range - the new dual action Scalp Moisturizing Lotion. Formulated with hyalucomplex, a combination of hyaluronic acid and panthenol, this lightweight formula helps to soothe the feeling of discomfort and keep the scalp hydrated.

www.rdr.link/HAG020

6.

THE WAY YOU MAKE ME PEEL...

Introducing the Derma Peeling Treatment from Keune, a gentle exfoliator that purifies, moisturises and revitalises the scalp to promote hair growth. Only available for use in salons, the exfoliating treatment contains glycolic acid to penetrate deep and loosen dead skin cells.

www.rdr.link/HAG021

7. BRING ON THE HEAT…

KEVIN.MURPHY has announced an all-new extension of the brand’s renowned BLOW.DRY collection with the addition of BLOW.DRY WASH & RINSE. Now offering a complete system of heat-activated style extenders and protectors, this WASH & RINSE combination will reduce styling friction before drying the hair –providing both an in-salon solution, as well as a perfect take home product for clients who style their hair regularly with hot tools.

www.rdr.link/HAG022

8. A TEXTURISING TREAT…

Keratin Complex has announced the launch of its KCTEXTURE Leave-in Conditioner, a lightweight, ultra-hydrating styling product designed to restore curls and lock in softness and shine. Featuring a blend of Signature Keratin, coconut and watermelon seed oils, and soy and barley proteins, this hydrating leave-in strengthens and moisturises.

www.rdr.link/HAG023

9. CUTTING EDGE…

Andis Company commemorates 100 years of brand innovation with the launch of the Centennial beSPOKE Trimmer. Designed specifically for professionals who are inspired by precision to create custom looks, the beSPOKE Trimmer uses the latest technology, including wireless induction charging and next-level design.

www.rdr.link/HAG024

10. MRS INCREDIBLE…

Especially crafted for coily, kinky and textured hair, Insight’s Elasti-Curl Textured Curly Hair Detangling Mask is a must-have SOS product for clients who struggle to comb their hair with ease after shampooing. Containing organic coconut oil, chia seed oil and sacha inchi oil, this nutrient rich mask will leave hair perfectly conditioned, stripped of frizz and easy to comb through.

www.rdr.link/HAG025

11. THE SCALP STORIES…

With its new pioneering Scalp Advanced range, L’Oréal Professionnel is now offering comprehensive and targeted scalp care that addresses scalp needs from skin to hair root. Developed for hair professionals and approved by dermatologists; the range targets three specific scalp issues: Anti-discomfort, anti-oiliness and anti-dandruff.

www.rdr.link/HAG026

For the Love of Lighteners

Big up your blonde skills with Schwarzkopf Professional ’s revamped BLONDME lightening products.

With blonde services responsible for over 60% of a salon’s colour revenue, it is essential that you bring your A-game when it comes to having the ultimate blonde confidence. Schwarzkopf Professional’s BLONDME lightening products have been revamped to help make your salon the go-to blonde location.

These new and improved lighteners have upgraded and integrated Anti-Metal Bond Protection Technology for great performance and minimised breakage, creating strong bonds for strong blondes.

The New Lightener List

BLONDME Premium Lightener 9+

Improved high-performance powder lightener with less swelling and great lift.

Outstanding lift with minimum hair breakage.

Up to 9 levels of lift.

New formula with less swelling. Anti-yellow agents to neutralise warm undertones.

Suitable for all hair bases and techniques.

BLONDME Clay Lightener

Optimised clay lightener with Schwarzkopf’s unique soft-to-solid formula. Specially designed for creative freehand techniques like Balayage services.

Up to 7 levels of lift with minimised hair breakage.

No need for foils thanks to the Soft-to-Solid formula; the integrated Kaolin Clay transforms the texture from soft to solid once applied.

NEW BLONDME Precision Lightener

Swell-control lightener for precise regrowth services.

Swell-Control-Formula for minimised swelling.

Up to 7 levels of lift with minimised hair breakage. Provides utmost precision for even the smallest regrowth applications.

Specially designed for precise on-scalp services, creating smooth transitions, making banding a thing of the past. Suitable for precise re-growth application with foils.

BLONDME Bleach & Tone

Your must-have lightener additives for lightening and neutralising in one simple step to achieve the perfect base.

All the lightening products come in upgraded packaging to be more sustainable by using recyclable and, where possible, recycled materials. FOR MORE DETAILS VISIT: WWW.RDR.LINK/HAG027

New Additive B-MATT ADDITIVE

Lightening and neutralising in one simple step to create the perfect base. For exceptional, even, blonde results. Counteract any unwanted warm undertone.

Available in Violet, Ash and new Matt to counteract yellow, orange and red undertones.

Can be used with all BLONDME lighteners.

step by step

Pastel Perfect

Spice up your blonde! Schwarzkopf Professional Global Colour Ambassador, Lesley Jennison, shows us how to create this perfect pastel blonde.

Step 1

COLOURS USED:

COLOUR 1

BLONDME Premium Lightener 9+

+ Premium Developer 6% | 20 vol. (1:2)

COLOUR 2

BLONDME Premium Lightener 9+

+ Premium Developer 2% | 7 vol. (1:2)

COLOUR 3

BLONDME Pastel Toning Lilac

+ BLONDME Pastel Toning Clear (1:2)

+ Premium Developer 2% | 7 vol. (1:1)

COLOUR 4

BLONDME Deep Toning Peach Sorbet

+ BLONDME Pastel Toning Clear (1:50)

+ Premium Developer 2% | 7 vol. (1:1) sections, with the crown area

Step 2

Split the back section into two sections. Then, working back to back, apply Colour 1 to mid-lengths and ends, keeping about 1cm away from roots.

Step 3Step 4

Step 5

Continue this process through the other sections.

Once applied to mid-lengths, apply Colour 2 to the roots and develop. Rinse, shampoo and treat with BLONDME Care.

Using alternate diagonal sections, tone using Colour 3 on larger sections and Colour 4 in smaller slices.

THE FUTURE IS BRIGHT

As the days get longer and lighter, Directions Hair Colour ensures client colour gets brighter.

For the more colour-conscious clients, Directions offers guilt-free colouring services with its 100% vegan and cruelty-free, salon-sized Hair Lightening range.

The range offers 1L cream-peroxides, available in 20, 30 or 40 volume, that create a non-gritty consistency when mixed with their dust-free, blue bleach powder that’s available in a 400g size.

Whether your client has fine or resistant hair, the multiple strengths available allow you to achieve a fast-acting and high lift performance.

THE HAIR LIGHTENING KITS HAVE 3 KEY BENEFITS:

• Formulated to condition and help protect the hair whilst developing.

• Both the powder bleach and cream peroxide are formulated with mineral oil to help moisturise the hair during the lightening process.

• Professional non-drip formula.

FOR MORE DETAILS VISIT: WWW.RDR.LINK/HAG028

“Non-grainy & super creamy.” @jaymz.masters

“Our new peroxide & bleach combo to use for our vivid bases.”

@vanitydollsalon

Blush & Glow

From the new trend collection, Quif Art team member, Claire Severn, talks us through the desirable Pixie Blush look using Quif Professional Colour.

Get the Cut

STEP 1

Section the nape area from ear to ear. Take a vertical section in the centre of the head and use Alfa Italia Soft cut blades to cut close to the head following the head shape –do not cut into the baseline.

STEP 2

Take your next vertical section and overdirect it slightly back towards the centre guideline, repeat until you are behind the ear. Go back to the other side and repeat.

STEP 3

Locate the top of the head, this will be your pivot point. Take a vertical triangular section from the pivot point to the occipital bone and create a rounded layer that blends with the nape area and leaves at least two inches of hair length at the top of the section.

Artist Tips

Using Alfa Italia Soft Cuts create this beautiful textured look in no time at all.

EQUIPMENT USED: Alfa Italia Soft Cut & Evoluzione Scissors

TECHNICAL INFO:

When pre-lightening for a soft pink, ensure you have a very light, clean (no warmth) base to work on, double tone if required.

For more details: www.rdr.link/HAG029

STEP 4

Pivot around the head, creating a rounded layer that tucks into the sides, using a travelling guideline until you reach the front hairline. At this point, use slight overdirection to create a heavier side for the fringe.

STEP 5

Dry the hair and assess the balance and texture. Use Alfa Italia Evo blades to remove weight from anywhere that appears too heavy.

STEP 6

Assess edges and keep them soft, using Evo blades to create light tendrils around the nape area, behind and in front of the ears and in the fringe area.

Get the Colour

STEP 1

Pre-lighten hair until it is a level 11 with a very pale yellow underlying pigment remaining. Shampoo and towel dry, spray liberally with porosity equaliser, comb through and blast dry.

STEP 2

Tone the remaining very pale yellow out of the hair using Quif’s Blast White Lightening. Apply to the hair and develop until all of the yellow tone is no longer visible. Rinse and blast dry.

STEP 3

Squeeze out enough White Lightening for the whole head, before adding a tiny blob of Quif’s Tickled Pink, combine together to assess the strength of pink tone you have, add more Tickled Pink to make stronger or more White Lightening to soften the tone.

STEP 4

Apply mixture to the hair and keep a check on it until your perfect pink is visible, then wait another minute before rinsing and conditioning.

Say it with Silk

In a bid to meet modern priorities and needs, Kerasilk has reimagined its range of products to create more sustainable alternatives to its previous ingredients, packaging and manufacturing techniques. Creating future-proof, resilient hair that keeps up with the demands of a busy lifestyle, the transformation recognises the challenges that hair faces today.

Using Silk+ Technology, Kerasilk beautifully rejuvenates hair, taking it from dull, lifeless and damaged, to healthy, strong and silky-soft. These newest additions of Kerasilk products offer a specified, optimised regimen built upon personalisation and proven professional performance.

Kerasilk’s innovative approach to formulation combines high-potency ingredients with the targeted efficacy of next-generation biotechnology to create high-performing, ethical solutions.

Kerasilk products are:

● 100% vegan

● Certified climate-neutral

● Free from microplastics and UV filters

● All KERASILK Essentials are silicone-free

● All shampoos are sulfate-free

The carefully-selected, versatile set includes the:

We are giving away a set of 10 new Kerasilk products to one lucky reader! To be in with a chance of winning, enter your details online at WWW.RDR.LINK/PHAG030

Essentials Smoothing Shampoo

Essentials Smoothing Conditioner

Specialist Strengthening Mask

Specialist Restorative Balm

Specialist Color Sealer

Specialist Multi-Benefit Hair Oil

Specialist Repairing Spray

Specialist Volumizing Spray

Specialist Liquid Cuticle Filler

Styling Finishing Cream

“New Kerasilk is a beautiful new rangefrom its packaging to the product formulations and ingredients through to the luxurious hair results. With intermixable products that are simple to use, as well as being carbon neutral and vegan, Kerasilk is the perfect, premium addition to our salon, offering our clients a luxury brand that delivers the luxurious results they are looking for both from their salon treatments to their home haircare.”

Martin Crean, MODE salon

Essentials Range

Gently cleansing and conditioning, Kerasilk Essentials work smartly to create the building blocks to stronger, more beautiful hair.

With the Silk+ Technology at its heart, the range replenishes lost amino acids inside and outside the hair, mimicking the composition of traditional silk proteins with bioengineered Biomimetic Silk. This silk is added to the hair with every use of Kerasilk Essentials, helping to continuously improve hair structure on a journey towards optimum strength and hydration.

The Kerasilk Essentials range includes a variety of different shampoos and conditioners, targeting specific issues such as colour protection, redensification, volumisation and anti-dandruff

Specialists Range

Whatever the personal hair needs or goals, this speciality range offers high-performing, specific solutions for honed improvement and hair optimisation.

Each product is designed to meet specific hair and styling needs, making it easy and intuitive for stylists to use and recommend the perfect product regiment for every hair texture, length, colour and condition.

The Kerasilk Specialist range includes a variety of masks, balms, oils and scalp care, all with refined options to target specific concerns with powerful results.

Styling Range

For the final touches that bring a hair transformation to its full potential, Kerasilk styling products deliver high-performance, multi-benefit formulas that create lasting, yet touchable, styles.

Covering all bases – from the trusted, everyday must-have to the ultimate special occasion perfecter – the considered styling category addresses a diverse range of specific styling challenges and goals.

The Kerasilk Styling range includes an array of products for every hair type and texture, including volumising foams, texturising sprays and finishing creams.

Booked..!

CELEBRITY HAIRDRESSER AND GROOMER LUKE BENSON IS ONE OF OUR FAVOURITE INSTAGRAM OBSESSIONS FOR BACKSTAGE PEEKS AT CELEBRITY SHOOTS AND EVENTS. CATCH LUKE’S LATEST DIARY HIGHLIGHTS WITH US EVERY MONTH IN PRO HAIR.

This is the second year I’ve done the hair for the COMIC RELIEF & TK MAXX campaign. It’s such a nice one to do because you get to work with an array of talent and produce imagery for a good cause to hopefully sell as many of the T-shirts as possible. It’s a great team led by Dundas Communications and shot by renowned photographer Matt Holyoak.

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

I’m honoured to have worked on TOM GRENNAN’s album artwork for the upcoming ‘What Ifs & Maybes’, as well as singles ‘All These Nights’ and ‘Here’. Men’s hair has definitely seen a resurgence in natural texture and I love this trend as it allows interesting shapes to be created, encouraging the hair’s natural movement to come out and creating more organic styles. We’ve been growing Tom’s hair for this album –longer lengths that move freely or curly shapes, perhaps with some subtle colour to enhance the curl definition, are really on trend for this year. Adding texture with point cutting and reducing weight so the hair can move is the way forward, along with using products that will tame the hair but let the overall shape move.

SOMETIMES THIS JOB GIVES YOU REAL PINCH ME MOMENTS, AND THIS WAS ONE!

To say I’m proud of what my mate ROMAN KEMP is achieving with all his mental health campaigning is an understatement. I recently did his hair for the @princeandprincessofwales #ShapingUs series, which just shows how appreciated it is and the difference it’s making. Focusing on how early childhood and experiences help to shape our lives is so interesting and such an honour to have been able to work on this.

This was a shoot for HOUSE OF SOLO MAGAZINE with Australian singer MATT CORBY. He is signed to the label started by Ben Lovett of Mumford & Sons, so expect big things. He was here doing a small European tour, and it’s moments like these that are great intros to new artists in the hope of working with them once they really blow up.

Hopped over to Paris to get

I love going to Paris for Couture Week, and the V&R show is always iconic so I was really excited for this one. I’ve worked with Amy a lot so it was nice to catch up with her. I worked on two contrasting styles, sleek and chic and something more textured and free to utilise Zara’s amazing hair.

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

WATCH THE FULL VIDEO ON INSTAGRAM AT WWW.RDR.LINK/PHAG031

@lukebensonhair

@lukebensonhair

Visit

Santi’s London

Santi’s London is an eco-friendly Aveda salon located in the lively and vibrant area of Soho, London. It offers a range of bespoke hair treatments from cutting and colouring to hair botox and extensions. Owner Santiago Figueroa shows us round his relaxing oasis.

HOW DID YOU DECIDE ON THE STYLE OF YOUR SALON INTERIOR?

Whilst I’ve worked in many prestigious salons across London and abroad, when deciding the style for SANTI’S LONDON I knew exactly what I wanted.

For me it was important that the energy of the salon was felt as soon as you walked in. Warm, friendly, and inviting colours.

With the entrance, I decided to go for a copper blush, a gorgeous colour that brought life to the salon instantly. The 45 LED bulbs hanging from the ceiling create a wow factor as you step into the salon.

For the rest of the interior, we have quite a rustic look. Our waiting area has three seats from an old theatre back in the 00s. Rustic wooden floor, white walls to compliment all the colours in the salon and, of course, all natural plants to filter and provide us with nice clean air in the salon.

We also have an outside area, which we have turned into a botanical space where clients can enjoy the outdoors whilst having their hair done. It is mainly used in the summer.

WHERE DID YOU FIND THE INSPIRATION FOR YOUR DESIGN?

Inspiration for the salon design was from our ethos. We are an eco-friendly AVEDA Salon providing vegan hair colour and treatments. So when designing the salon, I knew I wanted lots of colours in there to create that feeling of nature within our space; and by choosing lots of green and warm tones, I knew I would provide guests with a warm, friendly environment. Colours are also very important for our moods, so by having plants in the salon it automatically makes people relax.

DESCRIBE THE VIBE CREATED BY YOUR INTERIOR.

It’s a friendly, welcoming environment. When clients step through those doors they feel like they are at home, some even bring their dogs!

Everyone feels at ease and relaxed –we do our Aveda rituals which consist of a shoulder and head massage with one of our naturally derived Aveda oils –this makes our guests relax that little bit extra!

TELL US WHAT ARE THE KEY ELEMENTS OF YOUR SALON DESIGN?

Nature, eco-friendliness, sustainability and mood balance.

HOW HAVE YOU EMBRACED SUSTAINABILITY WITHIN THE DESIGN?

I made sure that no plastic was used to create the design of the salon. All our plants are natural and this gives my team a sense of caring. By caring for the plants we learn to care for each other.

WHAT SALON SOFTWARE DO YOU USE?

We use Shortcuts as our main system as it has all the features you need for the day-to-day running of your salon successfully. It is easy to navigate and user-friendly. I use Treatwell for marketing purposes –it has been a big part of my business growth. Treatwell has a great client base on their marketing system.

DID YOUR PRODUCT

BRAND/COLOUR

HOUSE INFLUENCE YOUR STYLE OF INTERIOR DESIGN?

Yes, a big part of your business is which product brand you choose to work for.

Aveda has been a big part of my career for the past eight years. Having worked with various brands in the past, none of them stood out for me as much as AVEDA did.

Our ethos at my company is to care for the world we live in and to do our bit to make sure we don’t leave any carbon footprint behind.

AVEDA stands for everything we stand for; not only are their colours and products naturally derived, they are also vegan and cruelty-free. Their support to my business has been immense.

WHAT SALON FURNITURE HAVE YOU CHOSEN AND WHY?

WHAT DO YOU HOPE ARE YOUR CLIENTS’

FIRST IMPRESSIONS WHEN THEY WALK IN?

WOW! I always aim for that ‘wow’ factor when our clients walk in. Because we are based on the first floor, on an initial first visit you don’t really know what to expect, but as soon as the client walks in –and before they have even had a seat –they all say how much they love the colours and lighting, and how they feel at ease and relaxed before their service has even begun. This is exactly what I was aiming for!

When I bought the salon from a previous owner, I kept the chairs and basins. Part of our brand is being sustainable and eco-friendly, so I decided to keep the current furniture. It would have been easy to buy brand new furniture, but I felt that the current pieces still had a good few years left in them, and with a bit of love and patience they were back in top shape.

DO YOU HAVE DRESS CODE/UNIFORM FOR YOUR TEAM?

I don’t believe in a dress code. As a business owner and hairdresser, I feel that we should all be able to express ourselves through colour. We do colour for a living and being able to choose your own clothing is so important. I don’t like labelling assistants only to wear black and the rest of the team colours. We are all part of one big family/team, and we should all be treated equally.

“This is me getting around on a golf buggy in Thailand. I adore traveling, and love to explore new cities around the world. Singapore, Hanoi and Bangkok are some of my favourites right now.”

5minutes with Antoinette Beenders

Global Creative Director and sustainability icon, Antoinette Beenders, talks morning workouts, growing orchids and travelling around the world.

TALK US THROUGH WHAT A NORMAL WORKING DAY LOOKS LIKE FOR YOU.

I start each morning with a workout, I find it gets me totally energised for the day ahead. Next, depending on what I have planned, my days can look wildly different! If I am spending the day in the office, my tasks include researching for my next campaign, postproduction of a shoot, video editing, budget meetings, product testing, model casting, Aveda leadership team meetings, and, of course, zoom, zoom,

zooms! The list is never-ending! If I’m working on a show, my day is spent packing, prepping and

means 18-hour days abroad and – as you can see – I am

WHEN YOU’RE NOT WORKING, WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING TO DO IN YOUR FREE TIME?

I am a huge spa junky! I recently had a four-hand massage, it was incredible. Flower arranging is also a great passion of mine; I have a real passion for growing orchards and visiting flower markets around the world. A few years ago, I actually shot a collection in my own garden – it looked like a fairytale. I also love walking my two dogs and speaking with my family in Holland.

quick fire favourites

CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR LATEST COLLECTION OR FAVOURITE SHOT?

One of my favourite recent collections is ‘Extraordinarily Natural’, which celebrates the beauty of individuality. I wanted to focus on the youth of today –representing styles from the entire spectrum of genders and identities – to demonstrate what it means to really be yourself, inside

TO EAT: NOPI – BEING MOSTLY VEGETARIAN, I LOVE MEDITERRANEAN FOOD. ANYTHING WITH FALAFEL AND WE ARE GOOD!

TO VISIT: DOVER STREET MARKET –LONDON, PARIS OR TOKYO

TO LISTEN: ANY KIND OF MUSIC TO ENERGISE MY WORKOUTS

TO WATCH: I LOVE WATCHING ALL KINDS OF NEW FILMS ON THE PLANE.

1 3 5 4 2

TO READ: I AM A SUCKER FOR FASHION MAGAZINES, BUT I ALSO LOVE THE SUNDAY TIMES.

and out. In this collection, no two cuts, colours or styling techniques were the same. I also used exclusively denim as I find it to be the most ungendered material.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE WARDROBE ITEM AT THE MOMENT?

My Issey Miyake trousers – I’m obessed! I have five pairs with different pleats and different colours.

CAN YOU SHARE WITH US ONE OF YOUR PROUDEST HAIRDRESSING MOMENTS?

Of course, winning British Hairdresser of the Year in 2004 was an honour for me. Another great moment was being asked to do hair for Iris Van Herpen and Stella McCartney; I love fashion, and to me it’s all about taking a holistic approach.

FOLLOW OUR insta

CAUGHT ON CAMERA

We are looking for exciting video content to share on our social pages. From hilarious hair fails and side-splitting salon stories, to trendy transformations and crazy colours – we want to see it all! We are especially interested in watching your ‘Canine Clips’, show off your furry friends getting to work on the salon floor… For your chance to be a video star, email your content to tshannon@hamerville.co.uk – and don’t forget to follow us, @prohairmag, on Instagram!

ADVERTISEMENT INDEX

Here is a useful summary of all the adverts that appear in this issue of Professional Hairdresser. Each is listed with its page number and a direct URL that will get you straight to the relevant online information

Alan Howard..............................................................(pages 30,31) www.rdr.link/HAG100

Denman....................................................................(page 76/OBC) www.rdr.link/HAG101

Ecolour Ltd........................................................................(page 29) www.rdr.link/HAG102

Great Lengths Dist............................................................(page 6) www.rdr.link/HAG103

Henkel Ltd..................................................................(pages 40,41) www.rdr.link/HAG104

Henkel Ltd....................................................................(page 42,43) www.rdr.link/HAG105

KPSS (UK) Ltd..............................................................(pages 12,13) www.rdr.link/HAG106

Revlon Professional............................................(page2 2/IFC,3) www.rdr.link/HAG107

Revlon/American Crew..........................................(pages 52,53) www.rdr.link/HAG108

Wella (UK) Ltd............................................................(pages 24,25) www.rdr.link/HAG109