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SEPTEMBER 2019

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S E P T E M B E R 2 01 9

FOLLOW ME: @nicolaprohair FOLLOW PRO HAIR MAG: @ProHairMag @ProHairMag

ISSUE 08

the mill (Leipa) can produce up to 530,000 tonnes of Growth in the sustainable, organic and natural beauty magazine paper, while promoting the sustainable use of market is at an all-time high as consumers seek out raw materials, water and energy and utilising only a products that deliver on trust, integrity and sustainability. minimum percentage of process chemicals. This pattern really started in the food sector but it’s now Currently, for the production of all magazine and building momentum in the hair and beauty industry, with packaging papers, Leipa use more than 1.5 million tonnes consumers increasingly questioning what is in their hair of recovered (printed and unprinted) and beauty products. Millennials and paper per year. No primary or virgin Gen Zs are a big focus as they are fibres are used in the production of now making their own purchasing their products. decisions, with the environment in S U S T A i N A B L E The use of water (a vital element mind, so therefore the growth of in paper making) is reduced and conscious consumerism will only rise. used several times through the mills With this in mind Professional closed-loop water circuits and when Hairdresser is launching a new returned, due to multi-phase water filtration, is cleaner sustainable initiative called Sustainable Salon Life than before extraction. across all our platforms with a live event tied in with Pro Energy consumption is also reduced by using waste Hair Live called Sustainable Salon Live. This exciting heat recovery and other innovative technologies, which new initiative is to help you, the salon owner, understand and adapt to a more sustainable business lifestyle and to also lessen emissions and pollution. embrace conscious consumerism which may well be On the latest WWF third-party audited scorecard, driven by your clients, whilst at the same time doing your Ultra Mag Plus received a rating of very good, with five bit to help the planet! out of five for forest and water performance and four out So we have dedicated the September issue to of five for climate. This gave the grade a total percentage Sustainability and from this issue we have pledged to rating of 84%, which is very good. Lowest rating areas print all future issues on recycled paper: were CO2 emissions, 13/20 and waste to landfill 6/10.” “Professional Hairdresser is printed on Ultra Mag Plus, Matthew Valentine, Antalis Ltd. which is a 100% recycled based paper grade. Certified under all ISO environmental standards and also sold Let’s all start taking small sustainable steps – turn to under the Blue Angel, Nordic Swan and EU Eco labels, page 58 onwards for some naturally good inspiration.

Editor Nicola Shannon nshannon@hamerville.co.uk Assistant Editor Megan Danskine mdanskine@hamerville.co.uk Digital Manager Ruth Williams Digital Assistant Rebecca Mcgeoch Designer Donna Booth

REGULARS

Jackie Ambrose

10 NEWS Industry going’s on 12 NEWS EXTRA Wella Business Network

Printer Walstead Roche Ltd Publisher Bryan Shannon Group Sales Manager

32 COLOUR CLOSE-UP Goldwell’s Elumen

Goldwell’s Color Zoom Final

FASHION 37 ON TREND

PEOPLE

COLLECTIONS

Production Assistant Claire Swendell

With BaByliss PRO

15 NEWS EXTRA

Group Production Manager Carol Padgett

31 TRENDSPOTTING

19 HOOKER & YOUNG With Charlotte Mensah 24 GIFTED & TALENTED With Zoe Williams 27 FOLLOWER OF FASHION

66 Product Round-Up 73 Debbie Digby 75 Anne Veck 76 Hari’s Salon Profile 78 Fowler35 Salon Profile 81 SPOTLIGHT TAOH

BUSINESS 84 Trisha Buller

SUSTAINABILITY SPECIAL

86 Michael Smith

61 Karine Jackson

89 Julie Eldrett

63 Adam Reed

91 Training

88 Phil Smith

Oliver Shannon oshannon@hamerville.co.uk

Professional Hairdresser, Hamerville Media Group Ltd, Regal House, Regal Way, Watford, Herts, WD24 4YF. Phone: 01923 237799 Fax: 01923 246901

WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK Subscriptions to Professional Hairdresser are avaliable at the following rates: UK: 1 year - £30 post paid Europe and Overseas: 1 year - £50 post paid AIRMAIL: 1 year - £65 post paid. To be removed from this magazine’s circulation please call 01923 237799 or email circulation@hamerville.couk. ©2019 Professional Hairdresser accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibilty can be acceoted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, in any form, without prior written permission from the publishers.

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@ProHairMag

@ProHairMag

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THE LATEST FROM THE INDUSTRY

MY TATTOO, MY STORY GHD LAUNCHES ITS PINK CAMPAIGN FOR 2019 WITH AN INFORMATIVE, EMOTIONAL, YET ‘OH-SO-INSTAGRAMMABLE’ EVENT.

Bring on the BOYS

ghd unveiled its pink campaign for 2019 in support of Breast Cancer Now at LABS House in London. Ink on Pink, the name of this years’ styler collection with its floral tattoo design covering the light pink barrel, came from an artistic partnership between ghd and Chicago-based mastectomy tattoo artist David Allen. David uses his signature floral tattoo creations to transform and build back self-esteem for women affected by breast cancer. David’s artwork evokes a fierce sense of femininity and becomes much more than just a tattoo but a powerful statement of self-love and renewed confidence, symbolising both life and rebirth. Bringing the campaign to life and capturing the beauty of the ink work is Grace Lombardo, who is the muse of the ghd ink on pink campaign. Grace worked with David following her own breast cancer treatment and her mastectomy tattoo has allowed her to recapture the femininity that cancer began to steal away.

Professional Hairdresser and Barber NV team up for Pro Hair Live.

Professional Hairdresser and Barber NV are pleased to announce an exciting collaboration to bring Pro Barbering Live to the Pro Hair Live show in Manchester on February 23rd & 24th 2020. Together we will enhance and expand the existing barbering element of Pro Hair Live into a dedicated male grooming showcase. As an industry event Pro Barbering Live will headline the very best brands, the latest techniques and the hottest talent from the world of barbering and male hairdressing. Nicola Shannon, Editor of Professional Hairdresser commented “The excellent reach and

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respect Barber NV has in the barbering sector perfectly complements ours in hairdressing. We are hugely excited to be creating this unique event together and look forward to welcoming many new barber visitors to the 2020 show.” Joanne Reid, Founder and Editor-in-Chief of BarberNV added “Our team has attended Pro Hair Live for years and we are equally excited to be joining up with Professional Hairdresser to bring our barbering insight and focus to the show. We believe whole-heartedly in the real opportunities for combining knowledge, skills and experiences”.

At the event David and Grace were joined by Alice-May Purkiss, a model for the ghd pink 2019 campaign and Rachel Rawson, Senior Clinical Nurse Specialist at Breast Cancer Now for a panel discussion about what this campaign truly means to both the cancer survivors, David himself, and Breast Cancer Now as a charity that has been receiving donations from ghd for 15 years. The event also had an exhibition space featuring more of David’s work with ghd, a hair styling space to try out the new stylers, and a temporary tattoo space so all of the guests could go home with their own floral design. “The connection with ghd and this partnership makes sense. When I work with my clients, it takes time, we build back their confidence together and these incredible women open up to me. Much like that time you spend with your hair stylist, that intimacy and power of transformation is akin to one another,” said David.


6 0 years in the making TAKARA BELMONT CELEBRATES 60TH ANNIVERSARY WITH NEW SHOWROOM LAUNCH.

A handpicked gathering of UK hair media and industry associates arrived at Takara Belmont’s London HQ to celebrate the brands 60th anniversary, tour the new state-of-the-art showroom and indulge in luxury treatments and hairstyling; the centrepiece of which was the Yume headspa. Representing cutting edge technical innovations, guests were treated to the ultimate VIP experience before grabbing a drink or two in the pop up cocktail bar. Along with an elegant flower wall and luxury buffet, the event proved a great success, leaving guests informed, contented and truly, truly relaxed. Kicking off the event, Managing Director Mr. Hoshina extended a warm welcome and expressed his appreciation of the media’s support. He highlighted the significance of this anniversary and talked about the company’s journey and evolution, and its major accomplishments. Cari-Anne Rawlinson, Takara Belmont’s Hairdressing Marketing Executive: “We were delighted to welcome our guests and immerse them in a Takara Belmont experience. Their response to the new showroom, the treatments and our equipment was very positive. We look forward building on our heritage and introducing more groundbreaking equipment in the future. The support of our guests and our relationships with the media and key industry organisations is so valuable. This event gave us an opportunity to thank them and show our gratitude.” Happy Anniversary Takara Belmont!

ARE YOU READY FOR THE INTERNATIONAL DAY OF CHARITY? The International Day of Charity on 5 September is a great opportunity for salons to step up their involvement in fundraising and supporting their local communities. As the hub of the high street, salons are uniquely placed to adopt a local good cause, or get their staff and clients involved in raising funds for national or international charities. National recognition For the first time this year, the NHF/NBF’s Hair and Beauty Community Awards highlighted the fantastic – often unsung – charitable work that so many salons are committed to, from cutting hair in hospices and free wig fitting for cancer patients, to mental health awareness projects and fundraising for children’s facial surgery. This year’s overall NHF/NBF fundraising winner was Inverness-based salon The Head Gardener who raised an amazing £200,000 for the Highland Hospice where salon director Alison McRitchie’s father was cared for. She even persuaded a couple of clients to join her on a recent sponsored cycle trip from Vietnam to Cambodia. Her team also got involved, taking part in a 24-hour ‘hair-a-thon’ and donating takings from a special Sunday opening day. The overall NHF/NBF community impact winner award went to John Belfield International of Newcastle-under-Lyme in Staffordshire. The salon does amazing work supporting a hostel for women and children escaping domestic violence. They provided Christmas lunch and gifts for those staying at the hostel and hold fundraising events throughout the year including sponsored activities, cake sales, clothes donations, and a 24-hour ‘cut-a-thon’. In addition to the positive impact salons achieve, charitable work is also a great team-building activity and often leads to free positive publicity for the salon in local media. Find out more about the NHF/NBF’s Hair and Beauty Community Awards and be inspired: nhf.info/community-awards Beating smear fear Other examples of salons raising their profile while having a positive impact on people’s lives include local businesses in Middlesbrough, Redcar and Cleveland who have signed up to a local authority scheme ‘Salons for Screening’. Salon clients receive discounts on hair and beauty treatments if they have a smear test. Business Awards: Community Support The NHF/NBF’s annual Business Awards also include a category for Best Community Support, in association with The Hairdressers’ Charity: nhf.info/nhf-business-awards The Hairdressers’ Charity is run by hairdressers for hairdressers who are in need, often because of illness, addiction or bereavement, so if you’re looking for ideas to start fundraising activities for the charity in your salon: thehairdresserscharity.org The NHF/NBF offers a range of business support services for hair and beauty salons, from legal, employment and financial guidance to discounted insurance and expert advice for managing people and boosting your business. www.nhf.info


NEWS EXTRA

BUSINESS TAKEOUT A TWO DAY TAKEAWAY OF IDEAS AND INSPIRATION SERVED UP AT THE WELLA BUSINESS NETWORK LIVE. Dr. Tamara Russell

Rob Forkan

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More than 200 guests gathered in the stunning grounds of the Belfry Hotel & Resort for Wella’s iconic Business Network Live event. The two day inspirational business event is in its 22nd year and has become a firm favourite with the Wella family. The event offers the perfect balance of serious business motivation, networking and inspiration, with an agenda of guest speakers who are carefully selected to connect with the audience of salon owners, managers and their teams. TV celebrity hairdresser and presenter, Michael Douglas, hosted the two day conference, and was joined by Wella’s Go-to-Market Operations Director, Jerome Toulza and Coty Professional Beauty General Manager, Nick Van Holstein who officially opened the two day programme. “In this room we have teams from the best salons in the UK. You will get many insights to take back to your businesses and I urge you to not leave here without taking away two or three insights to implement, and do not leave here without meeting two or three new people. This is all about networking and growing your business,” said Jerome. The list of guest speakers was every bit as captivating and exciting as the previous 21 years, and included a truly dynamic combination of entertaining business advice. Highlights included a set from Dick Strawbridge & Angel Adoree from the hit TV series Escape to the Chateau. Sharing their story of finding the chateau

and developing it into a dream home and business. “We are passionate about what we do and we’ve produced a work-life balance all based on our chateau,” said Dick. Beauty retail and brand creator, Millie Kendall MBE, spoke about the future of the beauty industry and raising its reputation. She revealed new research that has valued the total value of the UK consumption of beauty products and services in 2018 at £27.2 billion. “Our contribution to GDP is larger than car manufacturing in the UK,” said Millie. Adding a completely diverse element to the event, ‘futurist’ researcher and advisor Graeme Codrington spoke about the future of businesses in 2020. “In a time of deep disruption you have to be experimental,” he said. Discussing everything from driverless cars to global warming and antibiotics, his eclectic presentation proved interesting and captivating. In complete contrast, clinical psychologist, martial artist and neuroscientist, Dr Tamara Russell, spoke about mindfulness and how the brain can be maximised. Other guest speakers included Rob Forkan who shared his incredibly moving story of launching travellers fashion brand, Gandys, following a tsunami disaster that left Rob and his siblings orphans. Sharing his fight for survival and life changing venture to go on an launch ‘Orphans for Orphans’ – kids campus’s for orphans that they have funded and built, completely against the odds.


Michael Douglas

Millie Kendall

“At Wella we have the hairdresser at the heart of everything we do. Our aim at Business Network Live is to really inspire you both in business and your private life, and we have had the most exciting line up to make that happen.” Coty Professional Beauty General Manager, Nick Van Holstein.

Dick & Angel Strawbridge

Nick Van Holstein

Graeme Codrington

Cally Beaton

Mark Price

Former Managing Director of Waitrose and Deputy Chairman of the John Lewis Partnership, Mark Price, talked about how to engage a happy work force, as he captured the audience with his engaging session. “You need to love the customers you have. It is so easy to chase new ones, and forget what you already have,” he said. Cally Beaton, entrepreneur and performer, delivered a session on simply ‘being different’, “Everyone has the capacity to fire up both sides of their brain,” she said. Her session was funny and engaging, with plenty of messages to take back to the salon, which proved a big success with the audience. To truly change the vibe of the event, international duo – the Danish psychologist Mads Korsgaard and American hip-hop legend MC Supernatural presented a brand new collaboration. Based on the science of psychology, their session encompassed creative thinking and freestyle rap. The result Chris Ramsey was a brilliantly bonkers and unique session. In traditional Business Network Live style, there was the perfect balance of business and pleasure. At the end of day one, delegates enjoyed a fabulous drinks reception in the stunning grounds of The Belfry, followed by a formal sit down meal. The evening entertainment was literally a laugh a minute as guests headed to their own private comedy night with comedian (and Strictly ‘19 contestant) Chris Ramsey. The utterly brilliant night finished with an after party and DJ for the party set who danced the night away into the early hours.

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 13


D I VA S I G N AT U R E P R E M I U M ELECTRICAL STYLING RANGE

Developed with the stylist at the forefront, Diva Signature offers a product range with a unique pricing structure that supports salons with margins to make it a win/win for everyone. Priced to sell through to customers at an incredibly generous margin, Diva Signature goes all out to support salons and stylists to improve income streams whilst keeping clients very happy. These top-of-the-range electricals are the amongst the best in the market. Keep them for yourself or display on shelf for customers. Packaging is a key element with sell-through to clients and this range will draw admiring glances as it sits in your salon retail section. With editorially-styled imagery that will communicate directly to your customers, Diva Signature shows the way forward for all suppliers.

In order for salons and stylists to test this unique new concept, Diva Signature is offering 50% off RRPs on divasignature.com with code PROHAIR50. Try it. If it works for you, sign up and continue to receive similar prices. RRPs from £30-£200.

What ’s no t t o love? T&Cs Valid until end of September 2019, exclusively at www.divasignature.com. While stocks last.


NEWS EXTRA

Vienna calling

Goldwell crowns its Color Zoom UK Final winners at London’s Printworks. THE GOLD WINNERS OF THIS YEAR’S COLOR ZOOM CHALLENGE UK FINAL ARE… Over 750 Goldwell salon professionals from all over the UK descended on Printworks in London’s Canada Water for the Color Zoom UK Final. With the biggest audience we’ve seen at Color Zoom to date inside one of the most groundbreaking music venues in the country, it was set to be a monumental occasion. Guests enjoyed cocktails, street food and networking in the early evening sunshine at the KMS welcome party before heading inside to take their seats for the main event; the announcement of the Gold, Silver and Bronze winners across Color Zoom’s categories of New Talent, Creative and Partner. First the Goldwell UK Guest Artists put on an absolutely spectacular show using the newly launched Elumen Play colours before all 15 finalists took to the stage to showcase their models live to the audience. The theme of this year’s competition was REMIX, ‘a mix of bold colours, sharp contours and strong contrasts inspired by Pop Art and graphic minimalism which together create amd optical pop effect’ and the finalists worked to this brief when creating their final looks.

New Talent Category – Courtney Cairns of Headromance Creative Category – Lauren Roma Hanlon of Slunks Partner Category – Richard Munslow of TONI&GUY Hemel Hemstead

The UK gold award winners will go on an all-expenses paid trip with their model to the international live finale in Vienna at the end of September where they will compete against other national winners from around the world to become one of the Global Color Zoom winners and take their place on the Color Zoom Creative Team. Once part of the team, they will be offered the ultimate opportunity to create and be part of Goldwell’s most inspiring international project – the Color Zoom 2021 Collection, whilst also becoming the Color Zoom stars of international hairdressing. Congratulations to all of this year’s Color Zoom winners and good luck in Vienna!

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 15


HO O KER A ND YO U NG

PEOPLE

Charlotte Mensah We were walking along Portobello Road on our way to meet the very lovely Charlotte Mensah. A multi-award winning stylist with a hugely successful salon and an award winning product line that is going from strength to strength. We sat down over a glass of champagne and one of Charlotte’s gorgeous homemade cakes to find out where it all began and what has driven her to become the UK’s leading lady in afro hair. What a treat! Michael: Let’s start at the very beginning. How did you get into hairdressing?

Michael: Did your family encourage you to become a hairdresser?

Charlotte: To be honest, I never actually planned to become a hairdresser when I was younger. I was born in the UK but then moved to Ghana when I was three months old. I grew up with my grandparents before coming back to the UK at 11 to live with my mum. Shortly after coming back mum sadly passed, this was a terrible time for me and one of the ways I found to cope with the loss was to braid my younger sister’s hair. I felt like every time I did it we would speak a lot and it really helped with the healing process because it made us feel like she was still there as that was always something she used to do. I was bright student but due to my mum’s passing, my life was pretty chaotic. In between being moved around relatives, and generally being sad, I struggled at school and as a consequence didn’t do well in my exams. When I was 16, a careers advisor came to my school and asked what I wanted to do, I just found myself saying hairdressing, as it was something that I’d been doing for my sister, and ultimately was something that brought me some peace in a stressful period. To add, she always said I was good at it, so I thought why not, even though she was only three! The career advisor then helped get me an interview at Splinters; which was the first ever black salon to open in the UK. I was given the job and from the moment I started I just fell in love with it. For me, it was much more enjoyable that being in school, I loved the social side of it and it immediately just felt right.

Charlotte: My dad didn’t really understand it. He thought I should go to college to get my A-Levels and felt that hairdressing was for people who didn’t have any qualifications and was almost a last option for people that can’t do anything else. Gary: It’s sad, because I feel like a lot of people still think that way about hairdressing. Michael: So did you make a conscious decision to concentrate on just doing afro hair? Charlotte: I trained with both hair types but felt at the time that there weren’t many really good salons for afro hair, so thought that if I was ever going to have a salon the focus would be on afro hair. I was also really fortunate to be working with and receive my training from Winston Isaacs, who was so passionate about caring for and maintaining afro hair properly. He was just so inspirational that I knew it was what I wanted to do. Gary: How long did you work there? Charlotte: I started working there at 16 and left when I was 20. Being on the Youth Training Scheme I would spend four days a week in the salon and then one day at the London College of Fashion, which was incredible. It was 1986 and

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 19


PEOPLE

was an amazing time, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen were both there at the same time, you could feel there was a buzz, it was exciting. Michael: Did you always want to have your own salon? Charlotte: I knew that I wanted to create a space where women would be able to come together, have fun whilst having their hair done, which was always something that Splinters was able to achieve. It wasn’t until I fell pregnant at the age of 22, that the idea of running my own business became a real goal of mine. I loved hairdressing but I was only able do a certain number of hours in the salon, so I began to think of ways that would enable me to be able to still do hair whilst also being a mother. I used to have a few clients who would come to my house. I worked as a stylist at a few different salons, but I was always felt as if there wasn’t enough hours in the day. I then started thinking about the possibility of opening my own salon, but I didn’t have any money and didn’t really know how to go about doing it. I then heard about the Prince’s Trust and I went to them and they helped me to create a business plan, secure some finance and I then opened my first salon at the age of 28. Over those six years I had been able to build up a client base, which made the decision to open up the salon a little less daunting, but it was the desire to be able to have the flexibility to be able to spend time with my son that really focused my mind and helped push me to try and make it a success.

Gary: How did your first salon go? Charlotte: Well people thought I was mad, as it was in a business centre on Kilburn Park Road in London. I remember driving past it and thinking that it just seemed right, despite the fact that there was no shop front. I went in there with 50 clients, two years later I had 500. I think people liked it as they felt it was exclusive, a bit of a hidden gem. Gary: How did you find the business side of running your own salon? Charlotte: I had experience of renting a chair at a salon, which gave me a bit of a grounding and experience of working for myself. In addition, my grandfather was a director at a brewery in Ghana and when I was younger he would always take me to work with him and I learned a huge amount from him on how to run a business and how to spend your money diligently. Gary: So how long have you had the salon now? Charlotte: The first salon opened in 1999 and I then moved to the current location in Notting Hill back in 2003. I love this area as there are so many independent stores and it has a great community feel. After my childhood where I moved around so much, I was always conscious that I didn’t want that for my children, so I’ve also lived in the same house since my son was born, which is just down the road from the salon. Gary: How do you think the Afro market has changed over the years?

Charlotte: When I was training it was amazing as you had a proper structure, you were taught on the job and everything was done by the book. Nowadays, we are in the world of DIY — a lot of people have trained watching videos on YouTube then they call themselves hairdressing experts, I think our market has lost its way. There is also an increasing lack of understanding of products – what might be good for one might not good for another. Unfortunately the influencer has become the expert in the eye of the consumer rather than the hairdresser who might be ten years in. Also there are a lot more people wearing wigs, hair extensions and badly applied chemical treatments. The consequence of these actions are that people are ruining their hair and bringing about permanent hair loss. These are some of the subjects that are swept under the carpet within our industry. Gary: Is that where your inspiration for products came from? Charlotte: Absolutely. There wasn’t anything that I felt looked aesthetically pleasing or that had the right formula for afro hair and curly hair types – as you would have to use a few different products in order to get the result you needed. I was on a hair assignment in Kenya when I discovered the Manketti nut, which is loaded with vitamin E and is high in polyunsaturated fatty acids which helps as a barrier to prevent moisture from escaping from the hair for longer. It has a number of different properties and benefits for use on all types of hair. To add, I feel like it’s a much needed luxury product for curly hair types; from the quality of the ingredients, to the scent, the branding and even the packaging. These products are a breath of fresh air in a market which doesn’t usually have such things. Gary: In our experience it takes such a long time to get products to market, how did you find the process? Charlotte: It took me six years, but I was very particular about what went into them and how I wanted them to be when I launched them. One of the key ingredients that I wanted to use in my products was Shea butter as growing up in Ghana I knew a lot about the great properties it has and is used in almost all products for afro hair. By the time I


got round to developing the range it was being used in everything – even toilet paper! I wanted to have something unique, so when I found this particular nut in Kenya and heard about all of its different benefits, I knew it was right.

They see a few individuals the same age as them on social media who are successful and they want to get that.

Michael: Does anyone else use the ingredient in products?

Charlotte: It’s hard and I think social media is such a negative on this side. Nobody wants to take time doing anything and they don’t want the challenges or to have to go through the difficult times. You can’t expect to have made it at 19 as you haven’t gone through life or lived through any major struggles!

Charlotte: No-one. When I heard about it and started to develop the products I had to keep it so quiet, which was hard at times as it could be quite lonely not being able to share it with anyone. Michael: Wow, what an achievement to find something so new though! Charlotte: Thank you. The two things that I have learned through the whole process is that you have to be so patient – especially as I wanted to fund everything myself – and there is so much work that goes into developing and launching a product. Now it is on sale, you realise that all of the hard work has paid off, especially as it’s just been taken on by SpaceNK. Gary: Do you think being inducted into the British Hairdressing Awards Hall of Fame helped with the product launch? Charlotte: Definitely. It’s the Oscar’s of our hairdressing industry so having that recognition has helped provide validation for the products. Michael: Do you find it hard to get younger staff in the salon? Charlotte: It’s not hard to find young staff but it’s hard to find the right young staff. The young people these days just want everything instantly and they think that they should be in the same position as me within just a few minutes. They don’t see or respect the fact that I still work in the salon every day and that I’ve invested a huge amount of time and money into developing the success of the salon.

Gary: We see the same in our salons, but I don’t know how we change it.

Michael: Everyone we’ve spoken to has said the same thing. I don’t think it can or will change and we need to find a common ground and work differently. But at the moment it’s a difficult time. We share those frustrations though! Gary: How often do you work on the salon floor? Charlotte: I do three days of clients each week, and even if I’m not doing clients I’ll still come into the salon as I love it. I love the stories and being with the clients, there are some who have been coming to me since I was a junior stylist and they are the relationships that I really cherish. Michael: Would you ever want to open more salons?

Charlotte: I definitely want to teach more, I want to expand my brand and have more products in the range, continue to enjoy my life and bake more! I love to read as well but I feel to read you need to empty your head, which doesn’t happen very often for me, so I find that cooking or baking enables me to only concentrate on the ingredients and just relax. As hairdressers you take so much on without realising, we take on client and staff problems, so it’s nice to have something that’s just you and your own zone. Gary: It sounds like you have a lovely life and a nice balance. Charlotte: I do. I think to be able to do what we do for this long you have to have a balance and it’s important to have a happy home. No matter how hard it is at work, if your home is happy you can forget it all and feel happy. Without the support of my family and my husband I wouldn’t be here, so I will always be grateful for that. Charlotte is quite simply one of the nicest people you could ever wish to meet. Her story is heart-warming and one of resilience and a determination to succeed. Her successes are a credit to her talent and love of what she does. Charlotte remains completely grounded and humble making her a joy to be around. Our only other question is “when can we come round for more cake?!”

Charlotte: Not really, my dream is to open a hair academy. You learn so much from people and I love meeting them and teaching, it’s amazing. I don’t actually think there are any good schools in the world for afro hair, so I would love to be involved in creating something that increases knowledge and understanding of the hair and for it to be taken more seriously. Michael: What does the future hold for you?

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PEOPLE

ZOE WILLIAMS IS ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR THE KEN PICTON SALON IN CARDIFF AND AN ESTABLISHED HAIRDRESSER IN HER OWN RIGHT, QUICKLY MAKING A NAME FOR HERSELF AS ONE OF THE BRIGHTEST RISING STARS IN THE INDUSTRY.

Gifted &Talented

Why I was attracted to hairdressing? When I was teenager, I got a Saturday job at a local salon in Cardiff and immediately fell in love. It was fun, sociable and creative and there was never a dull moment. Like many hairdressers, I was not very academically inclined, and I wasn’t really sure what I was going to do as a career. I had always enjoyed creative subjects at school and done well in them, so I went to college to do an art course for a year. That’s when I got the Saturday job at the salon and I loved it so much that I decided to channel it and work in hair. I got a great apprenticeship when I was 17 and have never looked back. My first impression of the hairdressing world. I knew that I loved it immediately, but it took quite a long time for me to see the truly creative side of it. I always had fun at the salon and took a lot of pride in my work, but it wasn’t until I moved to Sydney for a year that I started to see another side to the industry. I worked in a salon there which did lots of shoots for magazines like Vogue Australia and it opened my eyes to the variety of work available within the industry. When I moved back to Cardiff and joined Ken Picton, it was exciting to be part of a team that really embraced a diverse variety of hairdressing opportunities – shoots, shows, education.

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My training and the main lessons I’ve learnt. After my apprenticeship, I worked at TONI&GUY before moving to Sydney to work for Aveda. When I returned to Cardiff, I came to Ken Picton as I had a few friends working here who loved it. Since joining, I’ve really been able to hone my craft and focus my career. The things I’ve learnt are mostly to do with clients, particularly when it comes to giving a good consultation. I’ve learnt to be honest with advice, provide realistic expectations, suggest changes and services – and never trust anyone that says you can do whatever you want!

real passion for education which is something I hadn’t previously considered. I love teaching our assistants and running courses with L’Oreal Professionnel, and I’m keen to help develop our own salon academy in the future. Personally, I never want to get complacent as I believe it’s important to keep challenging yourself and continue to develop and grow.

Early goals and how I achieved them. I was never particularly ambitious before I joined Ken Picton; I just wanted to be a good hairdresser, have happy clients and do well in the salon. When I joined, I saw the variety of routes available to me and thanks to the encouragement and support I received, I started to see more opportunities to develop. Being here has made me more ambitious, and now I’m much more focussed on achieving specific goals.

Career highlights so far. Winning Wales & South West Hairdresser of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards in 2017 was incredible, as was earning a place on the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s F.A.M.E. Team in 2016. I was also incredibly proud when I was named Artistic Director at Ken Picton.

My future goals. Professionally, I want to continue to enter competitions like the British Hairdressing Awards and create award-winning work. Since working at Ken Picton, I have also developed a

My advice to someone starting out in hair. Get an apprenticeship somewhere really good and find people that will nourish your learning and support you in your growth.


PEOPLE

Follower of fashion CONTINUING HER SERIES, DEDICATED FASHIONISTA JACKIE AMBROSE SHARES AN INSIGHT INTO THE DETAIL AND PLANNING THAT GOES INTO ONE OF D&J AMBROSE’S SIGNATURE GLOBAL SHOWS.

One of the most exciting aspects of our jobs is the thrill of putting together a show. It’s a chance to really ignite our creativity and showcase all the ideas that may have been bubbling under for many months. This July, Darren and our team travelled to LA for The Beauty Envision Awards 2019. Our task was to produce a stage spectacular to inspire an audience of hair and beauty professionals from around the world. The overall concept for the event was based around mixing up trends, so we settled on a theme of ‘Eclectic Chic’. A chance for our imaginations to run riot! This was our opportunity to throw couture, sports luxe, punk, a variety of eras, different fabrics, colours and prints into a huge melting pot and really push the boundaries of hair and fashion. From the outset we knew the show would consist of around 15-20 models. As well as painstakingly crafting out the concept and imagining the hair looks, we had a multitude of jaw-dropping outfits to pull together. In total we spent around a month sourcing items from our personal collection, boutiques, online and designing from scratch where we could. While some of the garments were new, others were reinvented, and all finely tuned with accessories which had relevance to the hair looks we were creating. It’s a monumental task, but one which we relish. As the date drew closer we had honed our looks into carefully curated outfits – ready to be matched up with our models in LA. Of course we have a certain aesthetic in mind, but you never know exactly what you’ll get until the day of casting. In total, Darren and the team travelled with four massive suitcases brimming with the most eclectic mix of outfits and accessories. In addition, we were responsible for having input into the whole show format. This means staging, lights – every detail that turns a show into a spectacular! We had an idea that we wanted to display an array of visuals on giant screens as each model walked the runway. The

effect we had in mind would produce a giant kaleidoscope interjected with a variety of textures and tones, which flipped, changed and mirrored the outfits each girl was wearing. The show kicked off with one striking model entering the stage dressed as a secret agent. A black McQueen robe style dress was perfect, and the hair was cut into a sleek Bob. The look is immaculate, but as Darren begins cutting her hair, the audience sees the look becoming more and more deconstructed. As panels are cut away from the hair we start to reveal texture and an entirely different colour underneath. As Darren completes the hair metamorphosis, the robe is taken off and underneath our model is dressed in a punk-inspired Vivienne Westwood graffiti skirt, 90s basque and ripped tights. As a final flourish, Darren smudges her precisely applied red lipstick. And our model is transformed from secret agent couture to junked-up punk. She’s joined on stage by an entourage of girls, each dressed in their own individual way – a clash of characters, fashion and ultimately hair inspiration. There was also an incredible surprise for the audience this year as guitarist DJ Ashba from Guns N’ Roses took to the stage playing a diamond-encrusted guitar. Darren had twisted DJ’s hair into spindle locks so that he almost became another one of the characters in the show. Such an awesome moment! Exhausting, but always rewarding, as we unpack the suitcases at the end of any experience there’s always a huge sense of pride and fulfillment at what we’ve achieved. And maybe even the first thoughts of what we can create next time.

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PEOPLE

TREND SPOTTING

WITH BABYLISS PRO

Josh Goodwin in Leeds “Over the last few seasons, we’ve seen the return of really playful hair,” says session stylist Josh Goodwin. “On the shows I’ve worked on in London and Paris, we’re seeing kitsch haircuts and big blowdries which reference different eras - more prominently the 70s, 80s and 90s.” Josh has been on the backstage scene for over 22 consecutive seasons, and is now a member of Syd Hayes’ core team, working on shows around the world. Josh lives in Leeds, and uses the buzzing Northern youth culture of the city as inspiration. “For these looks, I wanted to go back to massive hair. The trick is to heavily prep the hair with thickening spray, and blow-dry into big barrels (I use the Rapido dryer). This creates the effect of bouncy hair at the root for huge volume. After the drying, go in with a thick barrel tong (the 32mm Titanium Expression Curling Tong is the perfect size for this) over each section and pin to set. After it’s set, take out the pins and brush through with a bit of backcombing on the top to give it that real iconic 80s feel. “To change up the look, I gave this a real 90s Chanel feel - something super sleek, powerful and with a textured fringe. Alternate between barrel sizes to mix it up (I used the 16mm and 19mm Titanium Expression Curling Tongs for this) through the fringe, giving it an almost ‘permed’ feel. Scrape the rest of the hair back into a severe top-knot, following the contour of the makeup for a solid look.”

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EVER ELUMENATING Get colour different with Goldwell’s ELUMEN — a paintbox to colour outside the lines.

In 2001 Goldwell pioneered a revolutionary hair colour, with a unique technology: ELUMEN offered long lasting direct dyes with incredible shine and extraordinary colour brilliance, non-oxidative, ammonia-free and without ammonia odour and ever since, many salons have used it for creative colouring. Now the story continues – reinvented and re-launched for a new generation of colour creatives. Experience a different way of creating colour, with the next generation of ELUMEN.

ELUMEN is your colour playground The original ELUMEN shade palette has introduced new additions in 2019. For the very first time, two natural shades allow you to cover grey hair*** with direct dyes. Use the new thickener for more creative freedom and surprise your fashion obsessed clients with the newest pastel shades - Rose, Mint and Blue. And now you have full flexibility to choose between the original ELUMEN or brand new ELUMEN PLAY and perfectly matched ELUMEN CARE line.

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COLOUR CLOSE-UP

PRESS PLAY TO START With new ELUMEN PLAY, Goldwell introduces a semi-permanent hair colour for ultimate versatility. Mix and match eight colourful shades, from hot pink to ocean blue or live life in pastel with four beautiful colours. Fade is the new forever – the ELUMEN PLAY shades fade true to tone*. And if you need to change the colour again – remove all shades up to 100% with the new ELUMEN PLAY Eraser** and just like that, play again!

ELUMEN PLAY FACTS ● ● ●

For hair colour that lasts up to 10-15 washes* For purest tones on pre-lightened hair and levels 9-10 Assures no colour shifting and fading on tone up to 100%

CARE FOR YOUR COLOUR ELUMEN CARE is the perfect match for ELUMEN and ELUMEN PLAY. It helps to maintain ELUMEN colour and supports ELUMEN PLAY to fade on tone.

✓ ✓ ✓ ✓

Training is different Less rules More fun Easy application

PROTECTING THE ENVIRONMENT ONE STEP AT A TIME... The ELUMEN PLAY box is produced with sustainably sourced paper (FSC certificate) and is 100% climate neutral. ELUMEN PLAY supports the climate partner protection project No. 1056 to protect the forests in Brazil.

* Up to 100%. ** Depending on hair structure and intensity of existing color *** NN@6 and NN@8 offer up to 100% natural grey coverage

FIND OUT MORE WWW.RDR.LINK/HH001

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SAVE THE DATE

pur el y h air, p ure ly f or p rof e ssiona ls

BOOK FREE TICKETS AT WWW.PROHAIRLIVE.CO.UK

MANCHESTER CENTRAL 23 RD -24 TH FEBRUARY 2020


ARTIST: ANDREW SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY: CHRIS BULEZUIK


ADVERTORIAL

PRICES, WAGES AND PROFITS The only way to make money in your salon is by charging enough to cover all your costs and make a profit, says NHF/NBF Chief Executive Hilary Hall. Be cash flow confident “You must take control of your cash flow if you want your salon business to thrive and grow,” says Hilary. “Running out of cash is a major cause of business failure and even a profitable salon can fail because of poor cash flow. It’s the single most important issue for any business. “Do get help if you need it, but take the time to create a cash flow forecast,” says Hilary. “This will include details about your expected incomings and outgoings for the next 12 months. Your forecast will help you plan for peaks and troughs and you can check that you are charging enough to pay your bills, including wages, while still being profitable.” Find out more about how to get cash flow control in your salon: nhf.info/cashflow Getting your prices right Accurate pricing is essential and you need to fully understand your costs. You must be sure that the price you charge for a service covers the cost of the stylist’s time, the products used and all your other bills including tax and VAT. “Salons with a number of staff should consider offering tiered pricing based on the level of experience each employee has,” says Hilary. “This will help to increase your profits and will offer a clear career path to help inspire and motivate your staff. It also gives more price-sensitive clients the option to select a stylist according to their budget.” Using an accountant can save you thousands of pounds in the long run. Find out more: nhf.info/accountancy

Increasing your prices Don’t be afraid to increase your prices if you need to, says Hilary. “If possible, do this at the start of each new financial year in April, especially as this is when wage increases take effect. This will make sense to clients and be more acceptable to them.“Your aim should be to attract and keep a growing number of loyal customers who are happy to pay the prices you charge because they value the quality of service they receive in return.” Find out how to increase client loyalty: nhf.info/client-loyalty Wages “If you’re spending more than 60% of your turnover on wages, consider reducing staff numbers or working hours,” says Hilary, “but always take legal advice if you are considering this option.” NHF/NBF Members have access to free 24/7 legal advice: nhf.info/legal-advice You must pay your staff the correct National Minimum Wage or apprenticeship rate. If you break the law you could be fined and publicly named and shamed. Find out more about the latest National Minimum Wage rates: nhf.info/nmw-rise

The NHF/NBF For less than 75p a day, the NHF/NBF will help you boost your business while keeping you safe, legal and bang up to date with all the latest business laws. You’ll wonder what you did without us! Find out more: www.nhf.info

Join the NHF/NBF before the end of September 2019 and quote PHS25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

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Over the next few issues, Andrew Barton, Creative Director at Headmasters, will be championing the salon hairdresser and their place on the highstreet. He starts by looking at the importance of a brand campaign for salon use.

The

Salon

As Creative Director at Headmasters my work is diverse and includes leading the renowned Headmasters Creative Team. The team’s role is to deliver much of the brand’s values and signature hairdressing techniques, through education and inspirational training to ensure exacting standards across the 60 plus salon group. One of my focuses this year is really ‘celebrating the success of the salon hairdresser’. I think most people become hairdressers because they enjoy salon work, the camaraderie and the transformative effect you can have on clients, the relationships etc. As an industry we have really put on a pedestal every other option, from session, to stage work, to education and whilst they are all amazing areas to work in, actual salon work is still at the heart of what 99% of hairdressers do. I’m on a mission to make sure this work is celebrated too. Therefore, my schedule always includes time with clients at my Headmasters Mayfair salon. Salon work is incredibly rewarding and the time I spend behind the salon chair with my clients and the team is the highlight of my week. Each year my work includes creating a marketing campaign to represent the brand’s

values with the images communicating key trends in cut, colour and styling but also to provide campaign quality imagery for PR and marketing purposes. Creating the campaign must respect the brand’s heritage, be fashion aware and ultimately have the power to engage with our client demographic to promote service. It’s a large investment and one that must deliver across a variety of multi-faceted needs including inspiring the Headmasters stylists and attracting new recruits across 60 salons. The process of creating the campaign starts months before the actual shoot and includes various brainstorm sessions with department leads to ensure the needs of the business are met. Model selection, photography style, background, vibe, make up and fashion styling are all elements carefully considered as well as the hair references. With a huge reputation for creating wearable, fashionable, confidence boosting hair, the campaign must tick all of these boxes and is a commercially led campaign rather than a creative experiment.  The campaign concept for 2019 DESTINATION HAIR was to promote Headmasters as THE destination for hair with a 360 degree focus across all elements of the

business from education, to colour services, styling and cutting and has become a crucial part of the business strategy. The campaign has appeared across salon walls and windows, the Headmasters website and the social media activity and each quarter these images have been used to create a seasonal edit which is a focus for the season, releasing key images from the campaign to narrate a story, linked to a service – for example DESTINATION BALAYAGE was the focus of our summer edit. With its own logo and measurable KPI’s the campaign is an essential part of the businesses growth and success. KPI’s have included a 5% increase in the annual Headmasters colour sale, an incredible 22% increase in new stylist recruits, a huge 10% increase in colour consultations and a cohesive directive for every stylist in the business.  Creating a campaign can be a huge part of a business’s success story and it’s essential that all elements of the campaign are considered and are appropriate to the overall business plan to ensure the investment pays off. It’s also really important to put measurements in place so that you can truly work out how successful your investment was.

Turn over to see some of the final images.

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HEADMASTERS CREATIVE TEAM Hair Headmasters Creative Team Make-up Carol Brown Styling Radcliffe & Skiamma Photography Jack Eames Creative Director Andrew Barton

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Tristan Eves

Hair Tristan Eves Make Up Ellen K Bridger Styling Christopher Heeney Photography Jamie Blanshard


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Clubstar Art Team

Hair Clubstar Art Team – lead by Simon Tuckwell for the Fellowship of British Hairdressing Make-up Jess Eccleston Photography Ashley Gamble Art direction Ashley Gamble Art Team

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Project X

Hair Project X – lead by Kai Wain for the Fellowship of British Hairdressing Make-up Jess Eccleston Photography Ashley Gamble Art direction Ashley Gamble Art Team


S U S T A i N A B L E

a brand new dedicated event to promote true sustainability in hairdressing

MANCHESTER CENTRAL 23 RD -24 TH FEBRUARY 2020 WWW.PROHAIRLIVE.CO.UK


S U S T A i N A B L E

GREEN QUEEN

KARINE

We’ve enlisted passionate advocate for the environment KARINE JACKSON to kick off a series of columns starting in our sustainable special and continuing our Sustainable Salon initiative moving forward. Over the next few months she’ll be flying the flag for all things ethical in salons, covering what’s good for the environment (and your profits), and creating a blueprint for salons to go plastic-free… Around 15 years ago, I started to champion organic colour in my Covent Garden salon. This came about when one of my clients had cancer and asked me to research what alternatives were out there that would be gentler for her while she went through her treatment. Honestly, I went out with a heavy heart expecting to find henna-based products that performed poorly (and there was plenty of that around!), but then I found Organic Colour Systems – founded by a hairdresser who’d started to experience an allergic reaction to hair products, they contained the

lowest possible levels of PPD, no ammonia, resourcinol, and wherever possible, natural ingredients were used. And to my surprise, THEY WORKED! I think a lot of us hairdressers are cynical about the natural and organic tags – I know I was – but now I can honestly say that offering healthy haircare has been the making of my business. Clients seek me out from searching for natural and organic hair care online, or from seeing me in magazines and newspapers talking about what we do. To my mind, if something works to the same professional standard and is better for you, why would you not choose the ethical option? Today, natural, organic and vegan is starting to become the norm – recent research from Mintel showed that vegan claims trebled in hair care between 2014-18 in the UK, rising from 6% of all launches in 2014 to a massive one in five (20%) in 2018. And you know why? BECAUSE THE CONSUMER WANTS IT! I can tell you first hand that whether they’re vegan or not, clients like to know that what they’re using isn’t harmful to the environment. I don’t think anyone can disagree (with the exception of Trump of course) that global warming is an issue and that we must urgently amend our ways if we’re going to halt the damage we’re doing to our planet. One of the most distressing modern developments is plastic. Don’t get me wrong, plastic can be brilliant, it’s clever and we need it, but single use plastic could feasibly destroy our planet. David Attenborough has brought mass awareness to the public and we should be doing our bit to make sure we aren’t contributing to this disaster. In September, I’ll be hosting an event at my salon to raise awareness of the issues small businesses face when trying to eliminate single use plastic. I’ll be joined by Lucy Siegle, renowned ethical journalist and author of Turning The Tide On Plastic, and together we’re working on a blueprint that I hope you’ll be able to implement in your own salon. To start with, I’d really recommend you read or download Lucy’s book on Audible, it’s absolutely brilliant to get you thinking about what plastic you use and how it’s become so prevalent. In my next column, I’ll be talking about how to do a plastic audit. I hope as our series goes on you’ll see what a difference we can make – did you know that when Dr Denise Baden of Southampton Business School decided to do a study into Corporate Social Responsibility and how businesses can play a part in combating climate change she chose hairdressing because hair washing is such an energy intensive activity? Denise was thinking about how to reach consumers to educate them that if they wash their hair daily with two shampoos and rinse-out conditioner, leaving the water

running for ten minutes, it all adds up to ten kilograms a week. Exchange that for two shampoos a week with leave-in conditioner, supplemented by dry shampoo as required and that footprint goes down to half a kilo – a difference of 2,000%. With a quarter of UK carbon emissions being domestic, this is a significant saving. We hairdressers can chat to clients about practical ways that individuals could adopt a more sustainable lifestyle, but of course what we do in the salon is also huge in terms of energy use. And really, saving electric and water isn’t just good for the environment – the less we use, the less we pay! Join me next month for your guide to conducting a plastic assessment in salon and tips on how to make the move towards being plastic free. Resources: www.ecohairandbeauty.com – Get your salon certified sustainable and don’t forget to promote it to your local press and clients. Turning The Tide On Plastic by Lucy Siegle – Must read book to get you up to speed on all things plastic and recycling

THESE ARE SOME OF THE CHANGES I’VE MADE TO DATE... Bottled water for clients  swap to  Brita filtered water in glasses Bottled water/takeaway coffee cups for the team  swap to  Reusable bamboo cups with lids Freely running water at the backwash  swap to  Ecoheads shower heads Cotton towels  swap to  eco disposable towels Plastic retail bags  swap to  paper or canvas bags, or encourage them to bring their own or pop purchases into their handbag Toilet paper  swap to  Plastic free toilet paper made from sustainable bamboo with 100% recycled packaging Salon tissues  swap to  100% recycled tissues with no plastic packaging Cut flowers  swap to  potted plants Single use cleaning products  swap to  Refill cleaning products

Printed price lists  swap to  Price list on line

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S U S T A i N A B L E

NATURAL GROWTH It’s time to embrace it.

and this could be one challenge. Natural hair colour like L’Oréal Professionnel Botanea is incredible for tone, shine and depth and I definitely think that the more it is used, the more it will be loved. I know that salons also struggle with the need for continuing allergy result testing as consumers struggle to understand why they are needed when the product is 100% natural but again it is our job to educate on why this is important. What did you love about working on the new launch of Botanea and what doors as a salon owner can you see it opening up for the clients of today? I think L’Oréal Professionnel Botanea is great for a client looking for first time colour, it’s a herbal natural offering, easy to recommend and gets really strong natural result – a perfect way of introducing a non-colour client to colour for the first time or a client who is looking for a natural alternative as they shift life stages, I’ve seen new mothers opt for this alternative for example. 

Did you know that in 2018 the organic and natural cosmetics market grew by 14% to be worth £86.5 million – making it the eighth year of consecutive growth.* It is so important for the hairdressing industry to consider these facts and to really understand what their clients want from a salon. Increasingly consumers are seeking out products that deliver on authenticity, purpose, integrity, transparency and sustainability and they are questioning what is in their hair and beauty products. Purchasing decisions are being made with the environment in mind and this swell in conscious consumerism is set for long term growth. So how is the hairdressing industry reacting to this? Are salons even on board and prepared for this growing breed of mindful consumers who will be actively seeking out salons with a sustainable ethos and who also offer natural products and colour that deliver on all levels? *Organic Market Report 2019, Soil Association

We spoke to Adam Reed, UK Editorial Ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel to discover if he is witnessing the growth in the conscious client. How have you seen the client demographic in your salons shift with the rise in natural? The rise of interest in natural would definitely be the biggest overall changing factor I have noticed with clients in my salon. We have clients asking more questions about natural products and generally more curious about our natural offering and ingredients within products we use. Normally with a trend we have to talk to educate the client and drive conversation our side but interestingly with naturals, clients are mentioning it to us first. Also, the rise in organic products on the high street has certainly driven an interest in the professional products market. Natural seems to be much more of a movement as opposed to a trend. Why do you think salons have a fear or aren’t necessarily all embracing natural colour alternatives for professionals? (i.e. they believe the consumer isn’t in their salon but how do they actually map this?) The thing with natural hair colour is it gives a natural result - of course this is great for clients looking for a subtle colour result but as we know there is a very large demand in salons for hues like platinum blonde

Why do you think it is important for salons to have a 100% natural colour offering for clients? I think it’s important because the consumer demand is growing and the need for natural beauty offerings is only going to continue to strengthen. It’s early days for this new generation in natural colour but the message is starting to spread and it’s going to be huge - natural alternatives are here to stay! What do you think are the barriers that salons have when it comes to getting to grips with new pro ranges like Botanea? Are they simple to overcome? For me it is absolutely the continued allergy test which is a struggle, it is hard to get clients to come in to the salon twice every time they want their natural colour, as well as the confusion as to why it is needed. I like to explain to clients that like any natural ingredient, you can still be allergic – for example some people can be allergic to grass or pollen. Another barrier is time, the colour can actually take a lot longer than you think, especially if you are doing two applications, and with the results sometimes being very subtle is it hard to show the worth to the client – always make sure you are being totally transparent with your client before with the results they will achieve. Do you see the rise in natural colour in salons happening in the near future? Absolutely, with consumer demand and their knowledge of the natural market growing extremely fast, I see the natural professional colour offering in salons rising rapidly in the next few years.

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GREEN STREET In an age where we refuse plastic straws, take reusable totes to the supermarket and carry a personalised water bottle like it’s a designer handbag, it’s no wonder clients are looking for ways to reduce the environmental impact of their hair and beauty routine. Check out our round-up of the latest organic, vegan or eco-friendly products so you can point them down the right path.  AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT focuses on natural beauty, so the brand has chosen pure ingredients from carefully selected origins. The products, which range across five care categories for different hair concerns, are free from silicones, parabens, mineral oil and artificial colours and instead are completely vegan and cruelty free.  The new ALTER EGO Made with Kindness range is 100% vegan and specifically made to cater for the consumer demand for more natural and environmentally friendly products with kind ingredients that deliver results. The range counters and treats the most common hair and scalp problems such as hair loss and thinning, sensitivity, dryness and oiliness.

 LABEL.M’S Organics range features Orange Blossom Shampoo and Conditioner and Moisturising Lemongrass Shampoo and Conditioner. Both use certified organic ingredients and rich in nutrition to bring even the finest hair types back to life without any product build up.

 Cherry Almond Softening Leave-In Conditioner by AVEDA is powered by nature and formulated with a blend of naturally derived cherry blossom extract, sweet almond oil and moringa oil to help instantly condition hair while infusing it with Aveda’s sweet, juicy floral Cherry Almond aroma.

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 The OLIVIA GARDEN ECOHAIR Bamboo Thermal Radial Collection is made from bamboo, a 100% natural renewable resource which helps to reduce deforestation. The brushes have a ceramic coated barrel which heats up faster and retains heat longer, and they are available in four sizes ranging from 24mm-54mm.


S U S T A i N A B L E

 REDKEN Nature + Science is a no-compromise alternative to its cult haircare ranges, All Soft, Extreme and Color Extend. The formulas are 100% Vegan, sulfate free, silicone free and paraben free. The shampoos are made with 83% naturally derived ingredients, while the conditioners are made with 99% naturally derived ingredients.

 GROW by HAIR GAIN is the only vegan and Halal approved hair growth supplement on the market. It is derived from organic pea shoot extracts and contains powerful phytonutrients which can deliver fuller and thicker hair in just one month.

 HEAD JOG 08 Straw Brushes from HAIR TOOLS are environmentally friendly brushes made from bio-material obtained from renewable sources such as straw and rice husk. The brush design provides flexibility and is gentle on the scalp while the bristles are kinder to hair with less breakage during detangling.

 KEVIN.MURPHY has decided to make waves by converting their packaging to be made from 100% recycled ocean waste plastic. The brand is the first beauty company to do something like this, and in doing so they’ll save the planet from over 360 tons of new plastic each year.

 L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL’S vegan haircare collection, Source Essentielle, is formulated with between 80-99% naturally derived ingredients. It has been designed with a sustainable approach to innovation as the packaging is square shaped to hold the maximum amount of product and the minimum amount of recycled plastic. Customers can take their empty bottles back to the salon to refill it and avoid the use of another bottle.

 PHILIP KINGLSEY’S high performance hair care is now bottled in sugarcane-derived bioplastic. The brand is committed to developing products manufactured in a sustainable, ethical way. The bioplastic is a practical and safe way of sharing the loved formulations in with customers and being climate positive.

 PUREOLOGY products provide complete colour care with a pure ‘no nasties’ approach. The brand boasts zero sulphate shampoos and 100% vegan formulas made with sustainably-sourced natural plants extracts. The signature aromatherapy fragrances give every client an indulgent experience while protecting hair colour.

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S U S T A i N A B L E

 Aura Botanica by KÉRASTASE is a unique range made of up to 99% natural origin ingredients that deliver high performance with visible results on hair and a highly sensorial user experience. The new Masque Fondamental Riche provides immediate and long lasting nourishment and contains Brazil Nut Oil and Thai Rice Bran Oil.

 The MUK Spa Argan Oil Repair range is the perfect fusion of nature and technology. The natural and cruelty-free high performance range of five products – which includes shampoo, conditioner, mask, treatment, oil and shine spray – is designed to restore the vitality and condition of the hair with luxurious formulations containing high concentrations of pure Moroccon Argan Oil.

 HAIRSTORY’S New Wash is a shampoo free cleanser that replaces the need for a shampoo and conditioner, cleansing the hair of impurities but retaining its natural oils. It’s also 100% biodegradable and is available on the ‘New Wash Club’ scheme where each customer receives a reusable aluminium dispenser which can be refilled in salon to reduce the amount of plastic produced and used.

 Simplicity and effectiveness is at the heart of the INSIGHT PROFESSIONAL brand. The products are formulated from organic vegan ingredients and the packaging is made from 100% recycled materials. Insight products include everything from care and styling to colouring and skincare.

 The new Anti-Pollution Shampoo and Conditioner by SACHAJUAN protects hair from external contaminants found in urban cities such as airborne emissions, gases, dust and smoke. The highly concentrated natural active ingredients in the formula prevent shine loss and colour fading while being gluten free, cruelty free, paraben free and vegan friendly.

 ORGANIC COLOUR SYSTEMS Control Volume mousse is a unique natural soft hold styling product designed to give curl memory, anti-frizz and natural shine. It contains certified organic ingredients and is vegan and cruelty free. Organic Colour Systems has also introduced a refill bottle for Volume Mousse to save throwing away the plastic pump every time.

 Crystal gel Hair Wellness Remedies by MALIBU C come in different varieties to solve every hair concern and transform every client’s hair. Using 100% natural vegan vitamin technology these packets of purity promise vitalised hair for a perfect pristine canvas ready for any salon service. Hard Water naturally removes hard water deposits and impurities from the hair to leave it softer and shinier.

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 All of EVO’S packaging is 100% recyclable and the brand is working towards removing the outer boxes on products. The new Whip It Good moisture mousse, along with most of the Evo range, is suitable for vegans and is cruelty free, made without sulphates, parabens or gluten.

 LA BIOSTHETIQUE’S Botanique collection is 100% natural. The products achieve their effects with the use of valuable plant essences such ginseng, mint, lavender, aloe vera and jojoba. The collection consists of an Intense range for deep conditioning, a Gentle range and a Balancing range for dry hair and scalps.

 L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL’S first ever 100% herbal hair colour, Botanéa, uses sustainably sourced vegan ingredients powered by advanced science to create rich, seamless, natural colour results. A colourist combines the powder pigments to obtain the desired shade and then mixes them with water. The mixture, when heated makes it possible to permanently, yet gently dye the hair surface.

 The Aloetherapy line by EUFORA consists of five skin and hair care products that combine the power of Aloe Stem Cells from Certified Organic Aloe and innovative plant and flower technologies found in water lily and oat to deliver a calming, soothing experience. Aloetherapy includes a Cleanser, Conditioner and Moisture Mist as well as body products.

 WETBRUSH’S new Go Green Detangler is crafted from all natural and biodegradable plant starch so it will naturally break down in a landfill environment within five years. As well as being sustainable, the Detangler glides through tough tangles without causing breakage or pain.

 Keep Curl by ORGANIC COLOUR SYSTEMS is specially formulated for clients with naturally curly or permed hair and has been developed using a a carefully blend mix of natural, curl friendly, ethically sourced ingredients. Organic Colour Systems bottles and boxes are fully recyclable and the packaging chips they use in shipping are biodegradable.

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 BIOLAGE TREATMENT Packs are small but mighty sachets to be applied at the back bar with a take home supplement, and contain a high concentration of vegan, plant based care ingredients to help nourish, protect and rejuvenate hair. The packs contain far less plastic than a jar would, and are 85% bidegradable.


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Vegan Views Please let me say from the outset I am not a vegan. If I have to label myself it will be flexitarian. My uber committed vegan friend calls me a FAKE-ITARIAN. Label me what you will, it seems I am in good company. In a recent survey published by Marketing Week, it was discovered that over half of consumers questioned were interested in vegan products, despite less than 5% of respondents being vegan. It would appear that VEGAN has become a beacon for health/natural/eco friendly/sustainability and not simply a label for people not eating meat and avoiding animal products. Giles Quick of Kantar Worldpanel said “Social Media has brought veganism to the forefront of customers minds, and the mainstream. It’s not seen anymore as a choice for life, but as a choice for one meal, one moment, for one or two days a week. The vegan market has changed fundamentally in the last six or seven years – it’s now for everyone.” Annual celebrations around vegan lifestyle choices are well established with World Vegan Day on 1st November, World Vegan Month in November, and Veganuary in January where people can ‘detox’ their lifestyle for a month for the sake of their health. There is often a misconception that veganism is isolated to certain ‘trendy’ areas like London, or groups of hippy-like earth mothers. This could not be further from the truth. For example, Manchester is the city that used #vegan the most of all cities in the UK. And the people of Manchester walk the talk – in 2018 they purchased 171% more vegan products in The Body Shop than the people of London. In January 2019 Waterstones had 2058 book titles with VEGAN in the title compared to 994 in August 2018. Matt Rowden, Co-Founder of GM’s in Crystal Palace and East Dulwich reports they are getting 2/3 enquires a day in response to their window advertisements about vegan hair colour – they use Sensus MC2. Matt said, “people want to know about the ingredients and we are proud to tell them MC2 is 93% natural with no ammonia or PPD.” So when clients show interest in vegan products, what is it they are really seeking? It is the growing interest in animal welfare, our own health and the environment that is driving the demand. There is a lot of information out there, you may have heard of the project – ‘Earth Overshoot Day’? In 2019 Overshoot Day was

July 29th. It is a calculation done by Global Footprint Network that illustrates the day human population overshoots the environments resources. In other words, the day the inhabitants use up the resources of the world meant to last for a complete year. If the world’s population lived like United Kingdom, Overshoot Day would be May 17th. By contrast if the world lived like Qatar it is said to be February 11th and if the World took a leaf from Indonesia’s book, it would be December 18th. The purpose of the project is to educate us on what changes we can make that will contribute to moving the date. Example, if we cut food waste in half worldwide we would move Overshoot Day 10 days. If we reduced meat consumption by 50% we would move the date 15 days and if we reduced humanity’s carbon footprint by 50% the date would move 93 days. These are just a few examples, more information is available online at www.overshootday.org. There are many ways to make a difference and follow a sustainable business strategy, changing to LED light bulbs will save you money and reduce your carbon footprint. Choose water saving showerheads and water systems, and use eco friendly disposable towels. Find ways to take part in recycling anything and everything. A group of salons in Essex are collaborating to recycle foil and colour tubes, each salon collect theirs and they bring it all together to be collected and recycled. Check out the sustainability credentials of the businesses you work with. Your check will either reinforce their efforts or encourage them to implement more. Recently a salon owner shared with me that they are undertaking lots of sustainable activities as a business but unfortunately a client had chosen to call them out on one area they had yet to make ground on. I have come across this too, instead of celebrating the effort one is making; eco warriors chastise the area you have yet to tackle. My advice is – simply explain, “We are doing our best to tackle the issues around the preservation of the environment and are ever changing and working towards solutions whilst simultaneously remaining commercial and competitive in our industry. We may not be there yet, but we are moving closer everyday”.

The evolution of natural ingredients and veganism in the hair industry, by DEBBIE DIGBY.

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Naturally neutral An insight into ANNE VECK’s ‘Carbon Neutral’ salon. We have always aimed to be the most energy efficient, low environmental impact business possible, and following full refurbishments of our Oxford salon in 2013 and our Bicester salon in 2018, we have installed a number of environmentally-friendly measures designed to create one of the UK’s most eco-friendly salon businesses which was certified ‘Carbon Neutral’ in March this year. To achieve this globally-recognised status, Anne Veck Oxford was the first salon in the world to feature pioneering BlueGen ceramic fuel cell technology, which is specifically designed to reduce carbon footprint. Acting like a mini Use recyclable/compostable in-salon power station, the towels, they save energy, fuel cell generates water, space and each towel electricity from our mains is unique to each client. gas supply at an astonishing level of energy efficiency (80%) which has reduced our energy costs by 70% and has cut carbon emissions by over 50%. And as a bonus, it produces hot water as a bi-product, giving us a cylinder’s worth free each day! In Bicester, we have refitted using recycled and refurbished furniture and fittings throughout and our heating is the latest low energy infra-red system. No mains gas so no BlueGen, which is a pity.

Install water-saving backwash showerheads, they’re super easy to use. We don’t use foil for colour, we have a re-useable fabric alternative, which saves landfill and we are trialling the paper alternative too. Make sure your water pipes are insulated to save energy LED energy efficient lighting makes a huge difference and lasts longer (we have saved 1 ton of carbon emissions per salon). Use energy saving motion detectors for the lights in the toilets.

As a result, Anne Veck Limited’s carbon emissions have been measured at 19.3 tonnes per year. We have offset this by supporting a tree planting project in Kenya and as a result we are officially certified carbon neutral by Carbon Footprint Ltd. While I realise this isn’t a change every salon can make, alongside this ground-breaking technology, we also use a number of other simple, yet hugely effective, changes that have all helped contribute to our carbon neutral status across the whole business. If you aren’t doing these already, then here are some tweaks you can incorporate.

Find a carbon neutral telephone and broadband provider (we use local Oxfordshire firm STL) Switch to a green energy supplier. Our mains gas is supplied by Ecotricity, which generates power from waste and algae and our mains electricity is from them as well. All of our new salon literature and stationery is printed by, Seacourt, possibly the world’s greenest printers, NET carbon positive, and uses recycled card and paper. Both salons are ‘Refill Centres’, inviting in the public to refill their water bottles, helping to reduce plastic bottle use.

It’s also important to get the whole team behind the eco-friendly movement too, ensuring they are doing their bit as well and are talking to customers about this wherever they can. It’s been really great for us locally and in the industry – we’ve won awards, had great trade press coverage, clients love it, the local press has written about us numerous times and it’s something I believe in passionately, so to have my salons on the map because they environmentally-friendly is very important to us!

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Darren Fowler, Owner and Creative Director of Fowler35 invites you into his sustainable studio in Fitzrovia .

Having worked with Livia Firth, co-founder and creative director of Eco-Age, a sustainability consultancy (and wife of actor Colin Firth), on editorial shoots and red carpet events over the years, when it came to refurbishing my studio in Fitzrovia, the word sustainability was forefront in my mind. She’s instilled in me a belief that it’s the small things that count, and we can all make a difference by making both small or big changes. To help with this process, we had a survey done of the space by eco-specialists who looked at energy, water and heat and this helped when it came to briefing a designer.

Choosing designers and builders As a lot of the work I do outside of the studio is in film, theatre, fashion and advertising I chose Sophie Becher, a set designer who I’ve worked with, and who has undertaken assignments like the BBC’s ‘And Then There Were None’ and the Marie Colvin film with Rosamund Pike ‘A Private War’, to work with me on the project. I love her eye!

The brief Apart from the sustainability theme, my first thing was that everything in the

studio had to be practical and workable for a busy team. The space was already pretty amazing - it’s a former art-gallery in the road opposite the Charlotte Street Hotel in London’s Fitzrovia - and is on three levels with quite a bit of natural light in the main working space. I wanted the space to reflect the fowler35 brand values. We have our own brand manifesto and brand book, so it was this that Sophie and I worked off when designing how the space would be updated, and it made it easier for me to share my vision of what I wanted with her. For example, we are proud of our British heritage and our key colour is British Racing Green which was kept in mind during the whole design process.

The vibe The studio has a contemporary feel but echoes the traditional value of the brand - woods, earthy materials, modernistic wallpaper along with a more industrial modern approach in the main part of the studio with its triple height ceiling, exposed workings of the building and plain painted walls. The floor is polished concrete which adds to the industrial feeling, along with the handmade copper lamps with warm finish bulbs.

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The walk-through The studio operates on three levels - the entrance with its lounge-like quality with a leather couch, upcycled table, shelves of books, sweet jars, upcycled hand-held mirrors, handcrafted combs and bobby pins - I like the mix of old with new; I think if everything is too new it deadens the energy and these mixing second-hand with new gives it a creative energy. Here we also have bespoke shelves to display the products we stock - but we’ve changed the way we retail and don’t retail in brand anymore, we retail in category - so for example products for dry hair, products for damaged hair. We find it’s much easier for guests and the team to navigate. We have three stations in this area, and often if feels like its own little salon within the salon. Going down a set of concrete steps takes you to the main salon area with 12 stations. It’s very roomy with stations along each side and a huge open space in between which means it never feels over-crowded and has a very airy and open feeling. The walls are also perfect for displaying

works of art or our latest collections, depending on our latest marketing campaign. As I wanted a clean, minimalist feeling here, everything is hidden away, plus we also have phone and laptop chargers and USB’s for guests who need to work while they are with us - often we are an office outside of an office! We made our mixology, or colour room, open to the space (but behind glass) so that guests can see what we are doing, and we can see what they are doing, and if they need attention! Going down another set of stairs takes you to the area that was once a team area and office this has totally been transformed into our hair spa area where we offer Kérastase and Shu Uemura Art of Hair treatments. Its low ceiling and subdued ambiance creates a very relaxing space for up to five guests. We have dimmable lights here, so we can turn up to daylight when needed so we can see what’s happening to a colour. There’s also a special toning station which is stocked up with everything our stylists need so the guest has as smooth an experience as possible.

Incorporating sustainability into the refit (and every day salon life) Our chairs are Eco Fun by Christophe Pillet for Maletti these use recycled padding and recyclable aluminium for the frames and bases. I chose bamboo as the wood for the units and shelving areas and unit because it is incredibly durable and Bamboo is a regenerating grass so it grows much faster than hardwood trees and this makes it more sustainable and environmentally friendly. All of our bulbs are LEDs, and we do small things like have our own reusable gloves for colouring, so we are not using loads of one-use plastic gloves. We also have our own reusable totes so we don’t give out plastic bags with our retail products. Our red chairs that are dotted around the salon are upcycled from a working men’s club and we worked with a designer to make an upcycled table for our reception area. Another thing we have done is to cut down on the usage of our towels, and we also make sure that we put full loads in our washer and dryer so they are never half-loaded. We’ve also made a conscious effort to upcycle all of our Christmas decorations, as well as recycling anything that is no longer usable. We also produce our marketing and window campaigns with sustainability in mind too. And finally, we recycle as a salon and pay for a company to come and take everything away for recycling.

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SUPER NAT URE Hari Salem, founder of Hari’s Hairdressers explains the natural credentials and green ethos behind his flagship salon.

Why did you choose to create such a natural and green concept when designing the salon? The relocation of our flagship salon gave us the opportunity to create a new, fresh salon space. I love creating salon environments with character, to inspire and motivate my team and clients. I believe that our concept of ‘bringing the outdoors in’ breathes life, harmony and energy in to the salon. We’ve always championed green and sustainability from when I opened my first salon in the 70’s with our hero henna hair colouring and also L’Oréal Professionnel Botanea and this still remains part of our core DNA today, we’ve just gone back to our roots and amplified the theme of nature and the outdoors for all to enjoy.


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Is it important to reflect the concept of your salon in the products you use? You took on new Botanea and Source Essentielle and were very involved in the launch? Yes, it’s essential for us to reflect our unique concept via the products we use and sell in salon. We want to ensure our clients are clear of our ethos so Botanea and Source Essentielle compliment this perfectly. We are proud to work closely with and be ambassadors for both Botanea and Source Essentielle and enjoyed hosting successful launches at the salon. What materials did you use and why was it important to you to have lots of plants, wood and sustainable materials? We’ve used lots of natural materials including restored wooden furniture which I’ve hand-picked from my travels. I wanted the salon to reflect what I’m truly passionate about; eclectic art from around the globe, working in harmony with nature in a luxurious setting. The plants bring balance and inject oxygen into the salon along with our fresh air system which pumps fresh oxygen to improve indoor air quality and keep you feeling alert. We also have an atrium skylight at the back which feels like a greenhouse and conveys the feeling of being outdoors, it also gives great light for colouring. We also used eco lighting throughout to replicate natural daylight which helps keep our natural body clocks in sync.

What do you think the clients of today want from the salon in terms of eco and green? Clients today are savvy and have the luxury of choice, it’s no longer enough to offer ‘good services’ alone. Clients want great service in an environment which reflects their personal values and want to support salons which they can relate to. Clients nowadays are aware of the environment and the impact we have and will do what they can to ensure they are helping. They don’t want single use plastics, so we use the L’Oréal Professionnel Source Essentielle reusable bottles. We offer fresh juices instead of pre bottled to reduce waste and plastic use and have digital magazines on iPads instead of hard copies. We save water when washing clients’ hair and use natural hair colourants such as L’Oréal Professionnel Botanea to be as ‘clean’ as we can. Our clients also love our fresh air system and plants which all add to the eco aspect of our approach. You have used henna colour since the seventies – do you think we are reverting back to those very natural, hippy times with the modern consumer wanting much more of a natural alternative? We are definitely reverting back to our old ways. At Hari’s we have been working with henna since the seventies and it has been a large part of our colour business and some of our colourists have been with us for over 25 years, specialising in this colour service. Many salons stopped as it was perceived to be ‘out of fashion’ but with consumers becoming more conscious of what they are using on their hair and skin, there is a natural increase in this offering which we’re thrilled about!

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SPOTLIGHT

HAIR THAT CARES TAOH – THE ART OF HAIR – designed with love. Products tested by salon clients and designed by a hairdresser, TAOH is a line-up of refreshing cleansing and styling products including shampoos, matching conditioners, treatments and styling essentials to put the love back into clients’ hair. Created and designed by multi-award winning hairdresser Bruno Marc Giamattei of the Marc Antoni salon group, with clients’ feedback in mind, the sulphate and paraben free product range brings carefully selected ingredients and fragrances to every consumer.

Product Portfolio A range of ten unique hair care products crafted with natural seed oils for fresh and healthy hair with amazing shine.

TAOH Hydrate Shampoo

TAOH Volume Conditioner

A selection of three of the richest organic plant oils for intensive hair hydration: coconut, babassu and argan ensure each hair fibre receives sufficient nutrients while treated with the delicate sulphate free cleansing of this product. Macadamia oil and Kukui oil are then added for frizz-free shine. TAOH moisture complex helps keep hair strong and decreases loss of colour.

Volume Conditioner is the ideal daily treatment for stressed, fine and normal hair. Combining a high dosage of natural shea butter, provitamin B5 and silk protein, Volume Conditioner revitalises hair with needed moisture and nutrients. TAOH moisture complex helps keep hair strong and decreases loss of colour.

TAOH Hydrate Conditioner

Argan, Macadamia & Kukui oil restores the life and shine of hair; promoting scalp health to restore hair growth and vitality. It prevents split ends and calms the hair of frizz, tangles, and dullness.

TAOH Hair Oil A selection of three of the richest organic plant oils for intensive hair hydration: coconut, babassu and argan works in proven restorative provitamin B5 to revive each hair fibre. Hydrate Conditioner features a double dose of TAOH moisture complex to maintain optimal hydration, helping keep hair strong and decreasing loss of colour.

TAOH Volume Shampoo Volume Shampoo is the refined hair cleansing ritual infused with TAOH moisture complex and beautiful natural oils: camellia seed oil for gorgeous shine and tamanu oil for restorative repair.

TAOH Hydrate Mask The wonder of eight natural plant oils breath new life into hair with the luxurious TAOH Hydrate Mask; camellia seed oil, beauty leaf tamanu oil, coconut oil, babassu oil, argan oil, macadamia oil, kukui oil and camellina oil are combined for hair harmonising properties. TAOH Hydrate Mask contains Silk liquid, the essential amino acids blend from silk, which penetrate cuticle for intensive hydration.

Stying products include TAOH VOLUME MOUSSE , TAOH MATT CLAY, TAOH STYLING PASTE and TAOH HAIRSPRAY. “CLIENTS HAVE SO MUCH TO CHOOSE FROM SO I WANTED TO DEVELOP A RANGE FOR THEM THAT WAS DESIGNED BY STYLISTS WHO CARE. THIS MUST-HAVE RANGE OF PRODUCTS WILL DELIVER TO CLIENTS THAT GLOSSY SHINE AND FANTASTIC, SILKY CONDITIONED HAIR THAT THEY ALL DESIRE.” BRUNO MARC GIAMATTEI

FIND OUT MORE WWW.RDR.LINK/HH002


BUSINESS

CONTINUING HER NEW SERIES, TRISHA BULLER MIT SRSH SENIOR CONSULTANT TRICHOLOGIST AND OWNER OF THE AWARD-WINNING CIENTE SALON IN BERKHAMSTED, GOES BACK TO BASICS AND LOOKS AT WAYS TO HELP YOUR SALON WIN ON THE HIGH STREET.

Let’s get to the root of the problem Consultation is the key component to creating the most fantastic end result for your clients. Consultation means a meeting with an expert for advice and guidance. As hairdressers we have the golden opportunity to develop very good relationships and build trust with our clients during an appointment. We have our clients undivided attention for an hour or more, and we should use this time to impart our knowledge, and show just how much experience and skill we possess. People are attracted to an energy, knowledge and passion, let’s face it, we would all love a professional to give us advice on how we can make ourselves look great and feel fantastic just by using the right tools and products! The key is knowledge of your brands, and ongoing education. If you are not completely clued up on your products and how best they perform, the client will pick up on this, and you will lose their interest, and you will be just ‘doing hair’. Like many other salons in your town. Whilst taking care of your clients you should be suggesting and updating them on latest techniques, the perfect time for upselling, introducing colours and suggesting different styles. Working with hair plans for clients helps to build a raving fan and a commitment from your client to the brand and an exciting adventure for the client to undertake as opposed to just getting a haircut or blow dry. Be as excited as they are about their hair adventure experience.

Consultation process ● ● ●

Eye contact is a must… and smile. Escort the client to the seat. Always ensure the area/station the client has been seated at is clean and free from hair cuttings. Be mindful of the stylist taking care of the client’s time frame – are they ready? Are they running behind schedule due to a previous client’s appointment running over time? If so, always be up front with your client. They may wish to use the time to quickly pop out or make some important calls they didn’t have time to do before they arrived. Communication is key. If there is a time delay on taking care of your client immediately, this could be the golden opportunity for the stylist to recommend a hair treatment, and why they feel the hair needs to be treated – this can be offered as a complimentary treatment due to the delay of the stylist. Sometimes you find stylists or team members will not make eye contact if they’re running late, and this can be misconstrued to the client as being ignored and they find it rude. Respect your client’s time schedule and they will appreciate and respect you in return. Prior to advising on treatments, explain you will carry out a wet stretch test first. This is carried out at the backwash, after the first shampoo, which should a cleansing shampoo to remove build up. From here you can decide, does the hair need protein because its stretching to kingdom come and back or does it need moisture because it will not move or stretch at all? Terminology is key – during your consultation use terminology your client can relate to. This really helps them to visualise the end result, and also helps you to both be on the same wavelength . When explaining to your clients about what your using have it to hand, show them the bottles, let them smell the product, put some of the product into their hands. People buy on smell and touch.

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This is particularly important when explaining about your styling products. I show the client how much to use, how to apply, then using the heat from the dryer, I dry the product in my hands, then invite the client to feel my hands. They are amazed at how silky my hands feel and not at all sticky – “that is how your hair will feel’, I explain. ● Give the client a mirror so she can see the stretch of the hair, this does help them to visualise what you’re doing and why. ● Once the service at the back wash is completed and the client has a towel around her hair, walk them back to the station remove the towel and after removing excess water and using a wide tooth comb to avoid breakage, comb through, place a dry towel over the client’s hair and leave the products you have used in front of them. This is now the opportunity for the stylist to continue the service, again advising and explaining what they are doing and why. We call this ‘commentary hairdressing’. Clients only really listen about our personal lives to be polite! We should be asking about our clients home care regime and any other questions regarding their hair they may have. Avoid useless chit chat and holiday conversations. Explain the importance of heat protector and what styling products really do for the hair and hairstyle. Also well as protecting the inner structure they also act as anti-humectants. Hair is hygroscopic and will absorb the smallest amount of moisture in the atmosphere, so a styling product can protect against this and give longevity to the hair style. They also protect from UV rays, central heating, air conditioning and atmospheric pollutants . When you are styling your clients hair, ask them about the type of electrical equipment they use at home and use this opportunity to explain the importance of changing brushes, as broken bristles and ends of brushes can create damaged to hair fibres. Do they use a nozzle on their hairdryer? It is important to avoid burning and scorching the cuticles, and if you are not using a nozzle, the chances are you are damaging your hair. Show the clients how you are using the equipment, then ask them to try with your guidance – this will help them to repeat the styling technique at home. Remember visualisation is key. Once the service has been completed, remove the gown and any tools and trailing wires. Give the client the mirror to hold, turn the chair around and allow the client to move her hair freely and look at the finished results. By this time you and your client will have agreed on what products they need to take home to continue their hair care regime and when you will be seeing them next to maintain the style and continue with the hair plan. Always ask them if they’re happy, then ask ‘is there anything you would like me to change?’ Finally ask “if you’re totally happy with your experience today would you recommend me to your friends?” This is a great way to continue to build your client base through recommendations. Offer a further appointment. Clients do like the freedom to book online, however as we know, time flies, so suggest you make the booking for this reason and you do not want them to be disappointed if they leave it to the last minute.com. Say a big ‘thank you’ and look forward to seeing you soon as you open the door and wave them Bon Voyage.


BUSINESS

BUSINESS GURU MICHAEL SMITH OF TRISTAN EVES IS A FORMER COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR OF A LONDON ADVERTISING AGENCY, AND HAS APPLIED THE PRINCIPLES OF GOOD BUSINESS TO HIS THRIVING SALON, TRISTAN EVES, WITH GREAT SUCCESS. THIS ISSUE HE SHARES HIS SECRETS OF DEALING WITH TRICKY CUSTOMER EXPECTATIONS…

Lessons Learnt Like all salons, at Tristan Eves we have our fair share of welcome regulars. They’re the ones who know us, just as we know them. They book in on time and turn up. If something crops up and they have to cancel, they give us sufficient warning. They’re realistic about their hair and we work together to achieve and evolve the best their hair can be. They account for about a very satisfied 75% of our business. And, just like every salon, we have our share of more challenging customers. Of course this can be regulars – the ones who come back time and time again, but you know you’re never in for a smooth journey when they visit. And then, there’s the ad hoc tricky customer who can pose a challenge for many different reasons. Often it’s not their manner or behaviour which is the issue, but it can be their expectations. Let me give you an example… I had a customer come in a few weeks back. She was possibly in her late 50s, thinning and greying hair, as you would expect at that time of life. Her children were grown up and she had decided now was the right moment for a new look. It’s a huge honour to be given that responsibility. After all, reinventing is something a hair salon does best – it’s one of our proudest moments. But it does bring its own set of issues. From her bag, she presented a picture of how she used to look 30 years ago. And she wanted to look like that again. All completely understandable, and of course we wanted to help. But you can see the problem, right? There are certain things you can do with anyone’s hair, at a younger age. The hair is growing well, it has a thickness, and its natural colour rather than grey. You can play with it and if it isn’t to a client’s expectations, you can fix it. This sadly isn’t the case with older hair. It loses its flexibility and its natural colour, and it grows more slowly. Any mistake – as the client sees it – will be much harder to fix. So, you have a potential new client in front of you and you want to impress. All sorts of reasons have brought her to you, but bottom line she wants an expensive haircut and she’s looking at you – relying on you – to change her life. What do you do?

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Now this is where the art of consultation comes in. This is possibly the first time in 20 or 30 years she (or he – it can equally be a man) has thought about her hair. And you don’t know what’s going on in the background of her life, you’ve never seen her before. First, you listen and you think it through. This person wants you to change her life – to literally turn it back 30 years to when she was young, free, happy, and had great hair! The truth is, however good a hairdresser you are, you can’t turn the clock back 30 years. So having listened and taken on board what is driving their desire to change, we turn the conversation around and talk about what’s achievable. We look at images on a tablet or in magazines, and we’re honest about what can be achieved. We start to build a relationship of trust to manage their hair expectations for now and the future. We’re not therapists – but building a relationship of understanding is vital to future success, and retaining that client. Running a hair salon requires a lot more psychological connection than running a supermarket. Getting a haircut is not the same as buying your groceries. It’s an investment in your image, and therefore your sense of ‘who you are’ and what you project to the outside world. Customers place much more emotional expectation on the service, and of course it endures. So, to answer my original question, what do you do with the ad hoc tricky customer? Remember that every challenging customer has the potential to become a regular. You need to give them the same understanding, and same service, that you would give a regular. In fact, possibly even more so. We want to attract new clients such as the walk-ins, the referrals, the people we haven’t met before. And we need these clients to build a sustainable base. Nobody can turn a 55 year old into a 25 year old. But you can have a hairdresser who talks and walks you honestly through the change. And hopefully that’s what keeps them coming back for more.


BUSINESS

AWARD-WINNING AND REPUTED BUSINESSMAN PHIL SMITH CONTINUES HIS SERIES WHERE HE BRINGS KNOWLEDGE FROM SUCCESSFUL BRANDS IN OTHER INDUSTRIES AND LOOKS AT WHAT WE CAN LEARN FROM THEM. THIS ISSUE HE TALKS TO KARINNA NOBBS, FASHION FUTURIST AND AFFILIATE PROFESSOR

Look outside and learn Our industry is moving at a faster pace than ever before. While salon brands used to be built over time it is now those that work in the brands that help shape them, rather than those individuals being shaped by the brand itself. Never before has the power of the individual brand been so significant, so with that in mind, this month I haven’t interviewed someone on behalf of a brand but an individual who is very much their own brand. Phil: Karinna, why do you believe it is important for people, especially in creative industries, to build their own brand? Karinna: In one word – competition. Whether that competition is for someone’s attention, or for a contract or for the money in your customers bank account for their next haircut. Knowing who you are and what you stand for has always been communication best practice and in the current era where those in the creative industries have increasing numbers of platforms where they can communicate their identity, this need is heightened. Furthermore if there is a future desire to extend that identity to a product range or salon or even just to be perceived as known in their field – a clear and unique personal brand is very useful in order stand out within a sector so focused on aesthetics. Phil: How did you go about building your brand and what advice do you have to those starting out? Karinna: When I decided to go freelance and start my own consultancy business I went through these three steps which are relevant to anyone to reflect on at any stage in their career. Firstly, I made a list of what I wanted to do (i.e. the services I wanted to offer) and what I was passionate about (i.e. my personal values). Secondly I asked as many people as I could that I knew – how they would describe me and what they thought I was good at.

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Lastly, I took all of that information, looked for patterns and then reduced it to a few words and sentences and this formed my social bios and the type of content I wanted to post on there. It also gave direction to my website design and tone of voice. If anyone is fearful of this process my advice is remember your personal brand is not static – it can be dynamic and evolve as you do IRL. And also just experiment and try things – remember to give yourself time to reflect on what is working (or not) at least twice a year and ask your peers and mentors for honest feedback. Phil: Salon owners may feel nervous about individuals becoming better recognised than their own brand. Should this be a concern or something to embrace? Karinna: It could develop into a commercial concern if they become a paid influencer of sorts and/or if their personal brand or creative identity is very different from the salon they are employed by. This is a point for discussion that some salon/brand employers are now adding into employment contracts. However from a general PR perspective the wider the audience the better and therefore encouraging and even training employees to develop their own social profiles can have a positive effect on the business and can also aide staff retention. Karinna makes a very good point about reaching a wider audience through building the brand of each of the individuals within the salon. I can appreciate it might not come naturally for some business owners to allow their team members to become ‘bigger’ in fear that they might leave. I was once that guy. However, the chances are that everyone leaves some day. As with children, team members will fly the nest eventually so how about we encourage them to build their own brand while under the same roof and we can grow and benefit from each other’s recognition along the way.


JULIE ELDRETT

Putting it all together In my previous article for July/August I asked the question: Does your team ‘Buy In’ and ‘Fit In’. In my last article for Professional Hairdresser I want to bring everything together by sharing a powerful concept which has been a game changer for me and countless salon owners who’ve used it over the years. The concept is to simply think of the operation of your salon as a theatre production. When we go to the theatre and experience a great performance it evokes an emotional response from everyone there, doesn’t it? Now here’s the real magic, as well as having the power to move an audience, a great performance also has the power to evoke that same emotion response – consistently – performance after performance, audience after audience! Isn’t that exactly what you want your customers and team to experience in your salon? Now ask yourself, is the consistent emotional response a great performance evokes time after time a coincidence or a happy accident? The answer is, of course not, because the performance has been painstakingly designed and refined by a hardworking cast director, and you and your team have the power to do the same. ● You’ll be the Director (of the story to be played). ● The Salon Floor is your Stage. ● Your Team are your Cast. ● Your Customers are your Audience. ● The piece you’re going to perform, day after day, is your customer promise: We talked about the power of having a customer promise last month and if you remember mine was… ‘We treat every customer as a welcomed guest’. The script I gave my team to follow was the creation of a series of experiences: ● A warm welcome and being greeted by their name. ● Being served like an honoured guest while they were with us ( just like we would with guests at our home). ● Being made to feel special. ● Being invited back for a repeat performance before they left.

Top Tip: Take a moment to jot down now what would be your guildlines to help keep the consistency of your customer promise. Standards + Systems + Consistency = TRUST By the way, did you notice the script was the performance of a series of experiences, not a series of words and it must be performed with passion that’s fuelled by team members who care about your customer promise. Having a clear customer promise and a team who care about it, gives your business a powerful message and if it isn’t connecting it’s simply because some members of your cast don’t care and aren’t bothered. If this is the case, they must be replaced because the performance of your customer promise will never be consistent until they are. Consistency is essential…It’s the magic ingredient! Give cast members who care a role they can believe in, good training and trust and you’ll find they take confidence from being part of something bigger than themselves. When they put the confidence of belonging on, like a coat, you get what you really want…the consistent delivery of your customer promise. This is such an important point and I hope and pray I’m doing it justice and you can see what it could mean to you. Finally as I mentioned earlier this will be my last article for Professional Hairdresser but I’m always here for you if you need any help with your salon. Remember, you can get in touch using the contact details below and we’ll have a complimentary chat to see how I can help you. Also, you can catch me and Steve Hilliard for a full day of business education on Monday 14th October. For details go to my website and click SHOP where you will see all the details and price…hope to see you there and be able to have a good chat. May I say a BIG thank you to everyone who has followed my articles over the years I’m very grateful to you all.

www.julieeldrettconsulting.com 0797 122 6987

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 89


P

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SSIONAL

★ LIVE ★

in collaboration with

Menspire

SAVE THE DATE

23 RD –24 TH FEBRUARY 2020 MANCHESTER CENTRAL


WWW.PROFESSIONALHAIRDRESSER.CO.UK

TRAINING COLOURING...

CUTTING...

BUSINESS...

WELLA PROFESSIONALS Colour Clinic As a confident colourist, it is so frustrating when there is a specific colour challenge you can’t overcome. The Colour Clinic has been created to give you personalised advice that will bring out the very best in you. You’ll experience a one to one personalised consultation with a Wella Technical Educator who will diagnose and prescribe the right formula and technique to achieve your look. 9th October in London, 7th October in Manchester, Call, 0203 650 4700

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL Creative Cutting Step out of your comfort zone and discover your inner cutting creativity. This one-day course, taught by an award-winning guest artist, will inspire you to think outside the box, sharing hints and tips to provide clients with new and exciting styles. 16th September in Manchester, 23rd September in Cork Email, ASKacademy@henkel.com

MATRIX Make Me Digital This day-long course is a beginners guide to social media and gets you started with Google, Instagram and Facebook. This is an ideal first step for those wanting to understand how to use simple tips and tricks to maximise social media posts for customer engagement. By the end of the course you will have more knowledge to get your salon and team to be more digital. 24th September, Stoke-on-Trent Book online at, www.alanhoward.co.uk

GOLDWELL Colour Correction Specialist Impress your clients with your mastery of transition and transformation. Gain knowledge on how to be a true specialist and discover the tools that will make you outstanding in handling any colour challenge from a minor to a major colour change. 24th September, London Call, 020 3540 1200 L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Creative Colour with Skyler McDonald Have fun getting serious about colour with Skyler McDonald. Her expertise gives a boost to creative colourists introducing new ideas with confidence. On the course you’ll work on creative placement and perfect the tools and techniques you need to plan the perfect creative colour. 24th October, London Email, coursesuk@loreal.com FUDGE Headpaint Colour Essentials This morning theory session will provide you with a thorough understanding of the Fudge colour portfolio of Headpaint and Paintbox. You’ll cover hair structure, the colour wheel, peroxide choice, achieving target shade, formulating and colour correction. You’ll gain confidence in formulating for every client when using the Fudge portfolio back at your salon. 17th September, Chester Book online at, www.alanhoward.co.uk

SASSOON ACADEMY ABC Cut The ABC Cut course provides a week devoted to the touch stone techniques used by Sassoon trained stylists, allowing you the time and space to perfect lines, graduation, layering and their combinations. This course provides the best foundation for boosting your skills and knowledge and gives you the confidence to expand your repertoire. 28th September, London Book online at, www.sassoon-academy.com KMS Connect & Disconnect Take the principles from KMS’ IQ Cutting Method to the next level in this advanced cutting course. All techniques are based on how to connect or disconnect, using the IQ method as your blueprint and giving you the freedom to break the rules of cutting hair. 2nd October, London Call, 020 3540 1200 ALAN HOWARD Improve your Cutting Skills This cutting course is devoted to the perfecting of cutting techniques allowing you the time and space to truly perfect lines, graduation, layering and their combinations. It will provide you with an excellent knowledge base by immersing yourself in hands-on practical work sessions and detailed tutorials of seven cuts from highly qualified Alan Howard Educators. 1st October, Stoke-on-Trent Book online at, www.alanhoward.co.uk

GHD The Social Edit Social media has gone from a place to share snaps with your friends to an essential tool for any serious salon business. Get it right, and the clients, exposure and opportunities will follow. In this seminar, ghd expert Samantha Cusick will show you how her salon built a dedicated following of over 75,000 people, and how this grew her business at the same time. She’ll share her insight, as well as the dos and don’ts of a successful salon social media strategy. 30th September in Edinburgh, Email, seminars@ghdhair.com GOLDWELL Consultation Specialist On this course you’ll discover ways of consulting your clients that lead you to offering the correct service, as understanding both hair and client needs is the key to successful services You will explore how to use the language of persuasion in the real salon world and leave feeling confident to communicate with your client about time and costs of services. 25th September, 22nd October, London Call, 020 3540 1200 WELLA PROFESSIONALS Reception: Making it Work for your Business Receptionists are the first and last faces your clients see, but is your reception bringing out the best in your business. This course aims to heighten the skills and awareness of the reception team to build their effectiveness and job satisfaction. 3rd October in London, Call, 020 3650 4700

PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER 91


"Welcome to our World of Colour. At Schwarzkopf Professional we create with hairdressers for hairdressers. With over 120 years of expertise, we’re at the forefront of innovation, bringing you the products and tools you need to embrace your creativity whilst inspiring and exciting your clients. We celebrate our shared passion for hair, bringing you close to what’s happening next, so you can always stay ahead. Our colour portfolio is extensive, if you need it we’ve got it and we decided to celebrate all things colour with this beautiful magazine. So if colour is your passion, switch your phone off, make a cuppa, sit down and take a look at everything we have to offer. We believe in partnership and if you’d like to find out more about how to become part of the Schwarzkopf family, visit Schwarzkopfpro.com and follow us on Facebook and Instagram (@schwarzkopfprouk)." KAY BRADY, HEAD OF PROFESSIONAL PARTNERSHIP SERVICES (PPS) UK AND IRELAND.

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World of IGORA Everything you need to know about IGORA ROYAL, COLOR10 and VIBRANCE 8 #IGORA Inspiration Our favourite looks using IGORA, straight from Instagram 9 I Love IGORA Because… Our creative partners and why they love working with IGORA 10 IGORA COLOR 10 Step by step Create a soft colour grading look using a freehand technique 11 IGORA Education ASK Academy Courses to look out for in 2020 14 World of BLONDME Everything you need to know about the BLONDME range, in salon and at home

15 #BLONDME Inspiration Our favourite BLONDME looks, straight from Instagram 16 I Love BLONDME Because… Our creative partners and why blondes need BLONDME 18 BLONDME Step by step Learn to clay balayage with the new BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Clay Lightener 19 BLONDME Education ASK Academy Courses to look out for in 2020 20 Discover tbh – true beautiful honest Get to grips with our first permanent hair colour brand that creates authentic looking colours 22 TBH Step by step Create a coppery look with advice from Tim Scott-Wright

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WELCOME

TO THE WORLD OF

ROYAL SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’S HERITAGE COLOUR BRAND IGORA ROYAL BRINGS YOU TRUE COLOUR IN HIGH DEFINITION WITH UNCOMPROMISING COVERAGE AND UNBEATABLE RETENTION. Developed with colourists for colourists, IGORA ROYAL lets your creativity run free providing you with the tools to transform imagination into reality, with true to tuft colour results for ultimate reliability – even under the most challenging conditions. IGORA ROYAL covers up to 100% white hair, delivers ultimate colour retention and represents intense colour vibrancy. IGORA ROYAL equalises the colour evenly – even on porous hair. With the clearest lifting

shades and advanced care* for maximised contrast and shine and its absolute true to tuft results you will have 100% reliability for your daily work. Explore our portfolio of permanent colour, developed to provide a solution to your everyday salon requirements from specific client needs such as total coverage and increased scalp comfort to satisfying the most creative colourist with over 120 beautiful, intermixable shades to choose from.

*advanced care achieved with 12% 40 Vol. IGORA ROYAL Oil Developer

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IGORA ROYAL ABSOLUTES These 24 intense fashion shades boast superior shine and long lasting colour, plus extra care for mature hair with the in-built Pro-Age-Complex with Siliamine and Collagen.

IGORA ROYAL HIGHLIFTS This collection offers the coolest blonde shades ever from IGORA ROYAL with integrated Fibre Bond technology, it minimises hair breakage and can be used with the FIBREPLEX care regime.

IGORA ROYAL FASHION LIGHTS Fashion Lights has integrated Fibre Bond Technology which enforces bonds within the hair fibre to reduce hair breakage significantly. The collection offers one step colour and lift of up to five levels without pre-lightening.

IGORA ROYAL ABSOLUTES SILVERWHITE Four pure silver tones emphasise the beauty of your client’s natural hair colour,and quickly perfects a personal shade of silver. Turn yellow, matte hair into a silky, shining silver, which lasts for up to 20 washes

IGORA ROYAL ASHY CEDAR IGORA Ashy Cedar offers IGORA’s strongest neutralising shades with hues of petrol, for neutral and matte brown results, especially when lifting or highlighting dark bases.

IGORA ROYAL EARTHY CLAY IGORA Earthy Clay features muted, earthy and dusted brown shades for a sophisticated and iridescent look, upgrading bare beauty.

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COLOR10 SPEED UP TOMORROW’S COLOUR SERVICES TODAY WITH IGORA COLOR10 BY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL. For fast-track, fabulous colour, look no further than IGORA COLOR10: 32 permanent, natural-looking, shades that develop in just 10 minutes. Thanks to Amino Acid Carrier Technology, which acts as an express carrier, colour pigments are able to penetrate the hair shaft faster. Not only does this cut down your colour service time, but it has a caring formula that provides full coverage with long-lasting colour retention and up to 100% white hair coverage – answering the need for convenient colour perfection – fast!

BOOST YOUR TURNOVER WITH CLEVER 10-MINUTE SERVICES SPEEDY AND SIMPLE COLOUR SERVICES THAT WILL FIT PERFECTLY INTO A LUNCH BREAK OR EVENING SLOT. SPEED EXPRESS ROOT RE-TOUCH Cover white hair in no time: Just do an express root re-touch focusing on the T-Section. SPEED COLOUR PLACEMENT Use colour placement to create a glamorous accessory. Choose shape, size and position according to the cut. SHINE HALO Create super shine with a warmer or darker colour placement on the top section of the hair like an optical shine.

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SPEED MAKEOVER Dramatic Look – To create a graphic frame for the face, use a placement of a darker colour around the hair line. Soft Look – To create soft movement, use placements of a lighter colour around the face. MARBLE SPEED BLENDING FOR MEN The perfect way for male clients to achieve refreshed, blended colour results. Apply the colour to a comb and softly blend in, starting at the hair line and working towards the back in diagonal sections.


VIBRANCE MORE Performance. MORE Convenience. MORE Versatility. MORE Choice. The demand for you to create looks your client has seen on social media shows no signs of slowing down – if anything, it’s getting more creative and fast-moving. Customers want to be able to change their hair colour, without the commitment of permanent colouration or having to wait, all while protecting their gorgeous hair. Schwarzkopf Professional continuously strives to meet this need and now thanks to the new technologies and consistencies IGORA VIBRANCE can do even MORE. The advanced, moisturising demi-permanent hair colour – with a liquid formula that can turn into a gel or a cream – means that clients can expect more and you can deliver more… MORE Performance – up to 100% more INSTAShine* plus increased hair protection thanks to the new Moisture Protecting Complex. MORE Convenience – the new liquid formula with a 1-to-1 mixing ratio allows for easier formulation, faster mixing and more efficient application. MORE Versatility – the liquid demi-permanent colour allows you to choose either a gel or a cream consistency; experience quick application with a gel or the more precise application of a cream. MORE Choice – a full range of demi-permanent colour services are now available, with 68 shades that match harmoniously with IGORA ROYAL shades. The services include Dual System Application, Tone-on-Tone, Pastel Toning, Fashion Toning, Neutralisation/Colour Correction, Colour Refreshing and Clear Glossing. *vs. untreated hair

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SCHWARZKOPF SALONS GET CREATIVE...

ALLABOUTKEVINKAHAN

ASHLEYGAMBLEHAIR

DEBBIEGTRAINING

DYLANBRITTAINHAIR

GARYTAYLOR_EDCO

GEMMAHENSMANSHAIR

HOOKERANDYOUNG

ISHOKAHAIRANDBEAUTY

ISHOKAHAIRANDBEAUTY

LESLEYJENNISON

VANILLABYSARA

RICKROBERTSHAIR

SUZIEMCGILLHAIR_

LESLEYJENNISON

TIMSCOTTWRIGHT ATTHEHAIRSURGERY

SHARONMALCOLM HAIRDRESSING

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Every salon needs to have the mothership product and for us that is IGORA. This range gives you everything you possibly need for colour - tones, life, coverage, condition. For me IGORA is the mothership of all the products I can work with in my salon, to make sure I can do the best job. SUZIE MCGILL – RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL

As a Salon owner of 17 years now I believe Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA gives the best results and has changed the way we colour hair. It has a huge dynamic colour palette to work with that gives you the confidence in colour. DANIEL GRANGER – DANIEL GRANGER HAIRDRESSING The Schwarzkopf Professional brand and products are so advanced, how they think and how they work. IGORA allows every possibility of colour that you’d like to achieve achievable and so easily, with a great support mechanism. Schwarzkopf Professional is the best in the world for colour. ASHLEY GAMBLE – ASHLEY GAMBLE The main thing about IGORA for me is the result. Every colour we do using the IGORA range gives consistency, incredible shine and the ease of the ease of application is essential in the salon. Every colour is true to tone, from the colour on the shade guide to the colour result on actual hair. GARY TAYLOR – EDWARD & CO

I just love the tones available within the IGORA range, especially the nudes and I love how you can mix the tones together to get the desired colour. It’s just a really great colour! PHILIP BELL – ISHOKA

IGORA – easy to use, does what it says on the tin and is nice and clean. SKP are forward thinking, the first to do new things. Your colours help you develop where you want to be creatively. Works amazing for greys and I love how shiny it is and how healthy hair looks after colour. I think it’s important for your clients to believe in the products you use on their hair, and my clients love it. RICK ROBERTS – RICK ROBERTS HAIR

I absolutely adore the world of IGORA because if gives me everything I need for every single client I may have, from the softest most natural colour, to 100% coverage of grey with IGORA Absolutes to the most gorgeous muted vintage tone reds from IGORA Royal Dusted Rouge or the brightest, pigmented tones using IGORA ColorWorx. There is literally nothing I cannot do with IGORA. LESLEY JENNISON – GLOBAL COLOUR AMBASSADOR

Schwarzkopf is in my DNA; it’s always been for me the best house of colour there is. IGORA has always been a staple colour range, and it’s evolved beautifully. The additions and the trends they launch in IGORA excites you in a way you can really push it with a trend led consumer audience. TIM SCOTT WRIGHT – TIM SCOTT WRIGHT AT THE HAIR SURGERY

IGORA is the most reliable colour I have ever used, offering huge versatility, endless combinations and a glossy, long–lasting results. The possibilities are endless when it comes to mixing up bespoke shades for clients and it gives completely ‘true’ results. KEVIN KAHAN – KEVIN KAHAN

We love love IGORA at Billi Currie. The choice of colours is brilliant, the cover, shine and condition is 2nd to none. The range makes the hair have amazing depth and looks rich and glossy. DEBBIE G – BILLI CURRIE

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COLOUR GRADING WITH COLOR10 IGORA COLOR10 creates a range of looks achieving the same result as permanent colouration – all in just 10 minutes processing time, perfect for any lunch break service or evening slot. Follow our steps for an on trend colour grading technique.

BEFORE

1

2

1. Take a horse-shoe section on top of the head, centered at the forehead. 2. Apply COLOUR 1 to the root area below the horse-shoe section.

Create a soft colour grading using a free-hand technique. Vary the lengths of the roots to create a very natural look. In lower sections keep roots short, towards the top section leave roots up to twice as long and blend-in.

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4

3. Apply COLOUR 2 to mid-lengths below the horse-shoe section. 4. Apply COLOUR 1 to the root area within the horse-shoe section. Vary the lengths of the regrowth area to ensure a natural, visually-balanced end result.

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5. Apply COLOUR 2 to mid-lengths within the horse-shoe section. Make sure that COLOURS 1 and 2 are well-blended into each other. 6. To perfectly frame the face, blend COLOUR 1 into mid-lengths on the lowest layer of the fringe. 7. Process for 10 minutes.

COLOUR 1: 5-1 + 7-1 (1:1) + 3%/10 Vol. IGORA ROYAL Oil Developer 1:1 COLOUR 2: 8-11 + 9%/30 Vol. IGORA ROYAL Oil Developer 1:1 10

8. Emulsify and rinse out thoroughly until water runs clear. Shampoo with BC pH 4.5 Color Freeze Shampoo and apply BC pH 4.5 Color Freeze Conditioner or Treatment depending on the hair needs. Mixing ratio: 3%/10 Vol. colouring darker 6%/20 Vol. same base/ up to 1 level of lift 9%/30 Vol. up to 2 levels of lift


CREATING TOMORROW’S KNOWLEDGE TODAY

COURSES TO LOOK OUT FOR IN 2020…

MIXOLOGY Learn the art of mixology in this exciting colour course, which will show you how to combine creative expression with precise technical knowledge for dynamic results. Led by an ambassador, this seminar will show you how to learn the rules so that you can break them – and become a true colour connoisseur. The session will feature a mix of live demonstrations from inspirational artists with a hands-on workshop, so you can unleash your colour creativity and get experimental.

Education has always been at the heart of our industry. It’s only through acquiring the knowledge and skills to master our craft that we are then able to invent, innovate and blaze a trail towards tomorrow’s trends today. Our ground-breaking education encompasses courses in academies, bespoke in-salon trainings, regional events and shows. All courses are carefully created to suit you, the professional hairdresser at every level. Want to go beyond your usual colouring techniques and learn how to create individual, personalised blends for your clients? Our IGORA courses open you up to a world of new, creative colour possibilities, using the incredible IGORA Colour assortment.

WORLD OF IGORA Welcome to the world of IGORA colour! In this two-day seminar, you will be immersed in the IGORA Royal range through a lively combination of theory and practical sessions. Together, we will work to increase your knowledge of the Schwarzkopf Professional premium colour range – opening up a whole new world of creative possibilities for your clients and your colour business!

ULTIMATE COLOUR BUSINESS SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL COLOUR MASTERS Join us and experience the very highest standard in colour education. The Royal Master Academy is innovative in its holistic approach to acquiring colour knowledge, immersing you totally in the IGORA Royal system. From the philosophy, interpretation and selection of the right shades through to advanced application and the latest creative techniques, you’ll receive practical coaching and hands-on experience in each and every area of colour education. Our leading colour experts will be on hand to help you translate the hottest fashion trends into wearable styles that suit each client’s appearance, personality and lifestyle in this eleven-day masterclass that’s designed to inspire and challenge. Be ready to change who you are as a colourist and become the ultimate master of colour!

Gloss boss vs tbh – true, beautiful, honest Different clients have different colour needs, and in the Ultimate Colour Business course you’ll learn not just the trends, techniques and products to help them achieve their #colourgoals, but also how to price and promote them. Got clients that want high-impact results? Learn how to gloss like a boss with Vibrance, as well as how to explain and justify the cost, maintenance and aftercare of those maximum maintenance looks. For clients after more subtle results, tbh – true, beautiful, honest is the answer to their colour dreams – but how do you talk about trends and aftercare with those more low-maintenance clients? Our experts will share their insight on all aspects of running a successful colour business, so that you can make your salon more profitable and keep your clients coming back for more.

All of our ASK Education courses are available to browse and book online through our website. FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BOOK, HEAD TO THE ASK EDUCATION WEBSITE: WWW.SKPEVENTS.CO.UK

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IT’S TIME TO EMBRACE A WHOLE NEW WORLD OF BLONDE PERFECTION. OUR MUCH-LOVED BLONDME RANGE, WITH BLONDE TECHNIQUES FOR EVERY LOOK IMAGINABLE, HAS REVOLUTIONARY BONDING TECHNOLOGY BUILT IN.

IN YOUR SALON The BLONDME bond enforcing colours and toners cater for all blonde clients whether they want cool, honey, caramel or toffee tones or iridescent, creamy, platinum or bronde looks. Beginning with the BLONDME Premium Lift 9+, a high performance powder lightener which gives up to nine levels of lift and is suitable for all hair bases with built in bonding technology, the in salon range encompasses blonde technology for every look. This includes Bleach and Tone, Blonde Toning, Bond Enforcing Blonde Lifting shades, White Blending and Hi-Lifting, plus Keratin restoring bonding masks and potion treatments.

BLONDME BOND ENFORCING PREMIUM CLAY LIGHTENER Discover a new way to balayage with the latest innovation from BLONDME. Bond Enforcing Premium Clay Lightener has been developed to support the growing client demand for more freehand, balayage trending colour applications. The advanced, premium, soft-to-solid formula cleverly creates an outer shell, which allows the lightener to stay moist on the inside, unleashing its full lifting power, whilst the outer shell protects uncoloured hair from product transfer. It provides up to seven levels of lift, and of course has integrated Bond Enforcing Technology.

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BLONDME DETOXIFYING SYSTEM For healthy-looking, bright blonde results, the BLONDME Detoxifying System is the first blonde recovery regime designed to revive and protect blonde hair in 3 easy steps. Devoted to lasting blonde haircare, the new range is also powered by BLONDME’s integrated Bonding Technology - with Vitamin C, Amino Acids, Moringa Seed and Malic Acid, known for detoxifying, strengthening and protecting properties. The system contains a Purifying Bonding Shampoo, a Detoxifying System Shot designed for use in salon with the Keratin Restore Bonding Mask, and a Bi-Phase Bonding and Protecting Spray to shield hair from environmental aggressors.

HOME MAINTENANCE The BLONDME Bonding Care range has been expertly developed to work with the BLONDME Bond Enforcing Colours. The gentle care range creates bonds and helps to maintain the phenomenal blonde results. The products are also tailored for either cool or warm blondes. The Tone Enhancing Bonding Shampoo and Tone Enhancing Bonding Mask, work to rebuild and replenish the bonds and enhance the colour results to give maximum shine. For cool blondes, there is also the Tone Enhancing Bonding Spray Conditioner.

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BLONDME SCHWARZKOPF SALONS GET CREATIVE...

ALLABOUTKEVINKAHAN

CAROLYNINEWMAN

SARABARLOWEDUCATION

PETERMARCUSHAIRDRESSING

PETERMARCUSHAIRDRESSING

GEMMAHENSMANSHAIR

JACKHOWARD

HOOKERANDYOUNG

JACKHOWARD

LEWISMOORESALONS

PETERMARCUSHAIRDRESSING

DANIELGRANGER

SARABARLOWEDUCATION

ASHLEYGAMBLEHAIR

CAROLYNINEWMAN

DYLANBRITTAINHAIR

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BLONDME

With over 36 years of hairdressing experience this has been an outstanding breakthrough for every blonde-haired client. The whole range is amazing. Application, performance, outstanding results and condition - this is by far is an elite range of products for every. My team and I simply love it! SHARON MALCOLM – SHARON MALCOLM HAIRDRESSING

BLONDME is the perfect system for all things blonde. With its bond protecting technology within all colours along with the enhancing and protective styling range you couldn’t ask for anything more. I love the diversity and fullness of the range which makes it inclusive to all blondes, rather than putting everyone in one box. My clients love the way it makes their hair feel, how it keeps their hair protected and that there is a product for everyone. LEWIS MOORE – LEWIS MOORE SALONS

The BLONDME range is just perfect, what it does for us in the salon is give us the best possible colour you could achieve for blondes. As a premium brand to be able to do that in an effective way, that’s cost effective for clients that gives you in-salon results every time is invaluable. ASHLEY GAMBLE – ASHLEY GAMBLE

BLONDME gives you Endless colour creativity and the best bit about it is you’ve got the amazing condition because of the technology in the system. SARA BARLOW – VANILLA BY SARA BARLOW

BLONDME would always be my go-to for any sort of blonde, it’s the best blonde product I’ve ever worked with. There are so many intermixable tones, you can probably make another 20-30 shades on top of what there is to offer! The lift is super clean, and the condition is absolutely amazing. As a hairdresser, I don’t really feel I could live without it now. SUZIE MCGILL – RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL

It’s so important to have a range that allows getting the right blonde to be possible. The tone of a blonde can make or break an overall colour and not every blonde tone suits every person so getting the right tone for every client is crucial. The whole BLONDME range from the lifting to the toners is just beautiful and with phenomenal after-care our clients can maintain their blonde tone, so it stays looking like they’ve just left the salon. GEMMA HENSMANS – HENSMANS SALONS

I’m a huge fan of BLONDME, being so well known for my balayage skills I’ve always been on the lookout for great lightening products and with its bond enforcing technology and 9 levels of lift this product is fantastic, now with the clay lightener added to the range with all the same technology I’m even more excited. The detox homecare products have also been added, which means that I can freshen up blondes that have been affected by pollution without fear of damage. Schwarzkopf Professional is truly a leader in technology and products and the BLONDME range is making a colourists life easier, whilst promoting healthy shiny modern hair. JACK HOWARD – BLONDME GLOBAL AMBASSADOR

The is no other range like this for blondes, the results of lift while maintaining the condition of the hair is super. The BLONDME range from the lifting to the toners is fab with the added BLONDME after-care for homecare all guests can maintain their blonde tone, and the hair stays looking great in between salon visits. DEBBIE G – BILLI CURRIE

BLONDME is quite simply the go-to lightening system for professional colourists. It delivers exceptional results with amazing control and condition! Our blonde clients couldn’t be without it! It really is the best range out there and we haven’t looked back since using it. HOOKER & YOUNG

I love that fact that with BLONDME we have so many different dimensions now that we can use on our clients to create new tones of blondes. DYLAN BRITTAIN – RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL

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Our latest innovation, the BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Clay Lightener is perfect for creating on trend free hand looks. Follow Jack H o w a r d ’s s t e p s f o r a gorgeous balayage from h i s C a r a m e l K i s s c o l o u r.

BLONDME CLAY BALAYAGE The key to an impactful yet super soft balayage is the “negative space”. This refers to the careful contrast between the base colour and the lightened pieces that allow the hair to look gently illuminated. Start off by dividing the hair into three sections following the natural parting of the hair. Mix BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Clay Lightener with BLONDME Premium Developer 12%/40 Vol. (1:1.5). Take the first section and divide it into smaller, sickle-shaped pieces. Load the product in the middle part of the hair, then feather upwards, and gradually deposit it towards the ends.

Use the BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Clay Lightener for utmost precision and flawless freehand balayage.

Continue with the product application section by section, focusing on the mid-lengths and ends throughout the entire look. Make sure to finish one section before moving to the next. Leave to develop for up to 45 minutes. Rinse.

To maintain salon fabulous blonde results for longer, advise your clients to use BLONDME Keratin Restore Bonding Shampoo and Mask for All Blondes for home maintenance.

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Use BLONDME Keratin Restore Bonding Shampoo and rinse thoroughly. Apply BLONDME Intense Care Bonding Potion and comb through for an even distribution. Generously spread the BLONDME Keratin Restore Bonding Mask directly on top of the potion. Leave the mixture in for five minutes, then rinse thoroughly.


CREATING TOMORROW’S KNOWLEDGE TODAY Our ASK Education is devoted to excellence in teaching and learning. Dynamic education, breaking the boundaries of knowledge, skills and creativity and defining what’s next. Be a master of colour, indulge in your passion for beautiful hair and reveal your self-expression and individuality. It’s true when they say blondes really do have more fun! And with so many options for blondes or balayage you really do need to become the ultimate Blonde Expert! This is why we’ve created some dedicated courses to meet all your blonde needs.

COURSES TO LOOK OUT FOR IN 2020…

DEFINITIVE BALAYAGE with JACK HOWARD Learn how to Balayage with Jack Howard! This one-day seminar will cover all the myths and fears around freehand work. By the end of the day, you will be confident to perfect the classic Balayage application from root to tip. The session will include live demonstrations from Jack and a practical session on blocks in the afternoon. Jack will show you how to master techniques such as, face framing (the money piece), ponytail highlights, effortless freehand highlights, zone toning and lived-in hair. You will be able to take these salon-friendly techniques back to your salon offering new colour services and immediately be able to make more money. We will also cover technical information on the Schwarzkopf BlondMe range. Don’t miss out on this amazing opportunity!

The Power of Blonde # I LOVE BLONDME Does your heart beat blonde? Then it’s time to raise the bar! We embody the spirit and needs of blonde hair, so let us show you how to bring your creativity and blonde vision to life. This course will give you maximum product confidence, as well as the technical skills to handle the full spectrum of all blonde looks that your clients long for. This two-day seminar will consist of live demonstrations and a practical workshop, guiding you how to use our products and giving you confidence to create iconic blondes. Become the ultimate Blonde Expert!

NEW - GUEST STYLIST DAYS! Coming in 2020, you’ll now be able to create your own colour education to suit you with our guest stylist days. You can do this by inviting one of our Schwarzkopf Professional guest stylists to your salon to share their knowledge and insight for all the fundamentals you need to know. Explore our exciting new course menu and choose which day will suit your team. All the details will be available on our website www.skpevents.co.uk. All of our ASK Education courses are available to browse and book online through our website. FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BOOK, HEAD TO THE ASK EDUCATION WEBSITE: WWW.SKPEVENTS.CO.UK

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DISCOVER tbh – TRUE BEAUTIFUL HONEST IS SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’S FIRST PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR BRAND THAT CREATES AUTHENTIC LOOKING COLOURS… Earlier in 2019 Schwarzkopf Professional announced the highly-anticipated launch of its new brand tbh – true beautiful honest. A truly unique, beautifully authentic and genuinely honest solution to hair colouring. Schwarzkopf Professional responds to consumers’ demands for authenticity and a #nofilter beauty: Truly unique multi-dimensional nuances playing with the hair’s natural highs and lows. Beautifully authentic shimmering powdery nuances with subtle iridescent undertones that enhance and beautify rather than reduce or conceal. Honest in our approach to our formulation with up to 92% naturally derived ingredients, complemented by additional performance drivers.

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tbh – true beautiful honest: colour

tbh – true beautiful honest: services

The tbh – true beautiful honest colour portfolio respects and illuminates the hair´s natural highs and lows providing natural-looking results with up to 100% multi-dimensional coverage. tbh – true beautiful honest is colour that’s bespoke to the individual. tbh – true beautiful honest provides natural shine with a healthy-looking glow.

tbh – true beautiful honest is about enhancement and beautification, with any in-salon colour service clients can expect an authentic consultation experience to ensure completely bespoke, multi-dimensional results: It delivers classic services such as darker colouring, colour deposit on pre-lightened hair, tone on tone colouration, root stretch, highlights for darker hair with an uplift to three levels as well as dimensional lowlighting and contouring. Also included in the assortment is the tbh – true beautiful honest Tone Softener, a technical tool supporting the colour-refreshing, gloss services. It can be mixed with any tbh – true beautiful honest shade to revitalise and add shine to dull mid-lengths and ends. The following key ingredients are included in the formulation for highly caring properties:

Shimmering powdery tones with subtle iridescent undertones address every client’s wishes, thanks to crafted mixes of colour dyes. The tbh – true beautiful honest assortment contains 26 colours across three distinct colour worlds to ignite hairdresser’s creativity with beautifully authentic results: Natural: 6 neutral hues with a soft touch of chocolate. Cool: 13 modern smoky tones that help counteract underlying warmth. Warm: 7 luxury primary reflections, muted by rose undertones. The shade references are based on the Schwarzkopf Professional existing numbering system, making it easy for hairdressers to precisely select the right shade for their clients. The formulas have been crafted with up to 92% naturally derived ingredients, complemented by additional performance drivers, needed to guarantee reliable colour results: ●

Hair Colour Dyes Crafted together for powdery nuances, they include a specific colour dye (HEP) known to help reduce the risk of developing allergies.1

50% Less Ammonia Up to 50% less ammonia vs. standard permanent colour, for preserving the hair’s integrity whilst providing a more pleasant and gentle experience.

Grape Seed Oil Leaves the hair with a natural touch of shine

Argan Oil Natural oil, widely used in skincare, that enhances the hair’s softness while leaving the hair with a light shine.

Macadamia Oil Natural oil, known for its caring properties, that boosts the hair’s shine.

Shea Butter Natural ingredient, rich in fatty acids that helps to improve the hair’s softness.

Keep up with tbh – true beautiful honest on social media via the @schwarzkopfprouk channels using the #betbh and #schwarzkopfpro hashtags.

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Schwarzkopf Professional have taken tbh – true beautiful honest on a pop-up tour across Europe, visiting real Schwarzkopf Professional salons to showcase the multiple uses of tbh – true beautiful honest on real clients and bringing the range to life. As Tim Scott Wright is the UK ambassador for tbh – true beautiful honest, the pop-up tour headed to his salon in Birmingham where he created this beautiful look from the warm colour world.

BEFORE

1. Apply Schwarzkopf Professional Bond Enforcing Color Remover to the whole head and leave for 20 minutes.

3. Dry the hair and divide into 3 sections. Using the centre parting, create 2 front sections from the front of the head to just behind the ear. Then section the back area from behind the ears and the crown of the head.

5. For the front 2 panels, apply 7-47 with 3% on the root area and then using the colour melt technique, blend 10-51 and 9-47 with 3%. Leave the full head of colour to develop for 35 minutes

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2. Rinse off the Color Remover thoroughly.

4. Starting with the back section apply tbh – true beautiful honest colour in 7-47 with 3% from root to tip, making sure there is full and even coverage.

6. Rinse thoroughly

7. Blow dry and style as desired.

Finished look

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Profile for Hamerville Media Group

Professional Hairdresser September 19  

Professional Hairdresser September 19