TREAT, COLOR, SHINE
IN HALF THE TIME*
Autumn has got to be our favourite season here at Hair Magazine. Many of us feel the need for change in alignment with the seasons, so we spoke to award winning hairdresser Fergal Doyle who has provided us with all you need to know about colour! If you are still unsure of whether you need to switch it up, we have created the perfect quiz to give you the answer!
Not only do we get the opportunity to start switching things up, but we also get a glimpse of the fabulous photographic collections created by hundreds of hairdressers throughout the country that enter the British Hairdressing Awards. On this very subject, we spoke to current British Hairdresser of the Year, Cos Sakkas to find out what his next goals are, his trend predictions and of course – if he could do anyone’s hair, who would it be, and why?
We’re delighted to also feature Hair Magazine’s Men’s Specialist Salon Winner, Charles Rose, Director of Crate Cheshire, who last year opened their third location. They’ve elevated the salon experience by incorporating a fully licensed bar, hosting events, and establishing a mental health group, ‘Short Chat and Sides,’ showcasing their commitment to community well-being.
With Halloween just around the corner, meet Tom Smith who was recently dubbed ‘The Hairvoyant’ by The Sunday Times for his ability to pick and predict trends sending them viral on his social media.
Leaving you on a high note, we are happy to announce that The Hair Awards are returning! Entries will open on the 7th October, in the meantime, keep an eye on our socials…
Wishing you all a fabulous autumn!
Happy Hair Days,
Evie Sherriffs
Editor info@hairmagazine.co.uk
Editor
Evie Sherriffs
Contributing
editor Louisa Maidwell
Hair: Olivia Binch @ Mark Leeson
Make up: Lauren Mathis
Fashion: Mark Leeson & Richard Darby
Photography: Richard Miles
CONTENTS
06 Collection: Olivia Binch at Mark Leeson presents EUPHORIA
14 In the Hot Seat with International Hairdresser of the Year and British Hairdresser of the Year – Cos Sakkas
16 Curly Q&A – Hair chats to Hair Awards Winner Emma Simmons
18 Changing up your hair colour? We’ve listed everything you need to know before taking the plunge
22 Collection: Emma Simmons presents EMOCHIC
30 New on the Shelf: Hair Magazine’s edit of our favourite new releases
32 We chat to Hair Awards 2024 Men’s Specialist Salon Winner, Crate Cheshire
36 Find out if you need a makeover
38 Collection: Angelo Seminara presents EVOKE
46 Hottest Autumn colour trends with Tom Smith
49 Is retinol just for your skin?
50 Victoria Lynch, Managing Director and Founder of Remi Cachet, gives extension advice
Euphoria mixes technical cutting, session inspired trends and strategic placement of colour to enhance the overall vibe of the collection.
Euphoria
Euphoria HAIR: Olivia Binch @ Mark Leeson
MAKE UP: Lauren Mathis
FASHION: Mark Leeson & Richard Darby
PHOTOGRAPHY: Richard Miles
PHOTOGRAPHY:
Euphoria
HAIR:
Olivia Binch @ Mark Leeson
MAKE UP:
Lauren Mathis
FASHION:
Mark Leeson & Richard
Darby
Richard Miles
Euphoria HAIR:
Olivia Binch @ Mark Leeson
MAKE UP: Lauren Mathis
FASHION: Mark Leeson & Richard Darby
PHOTOGRAPHY: Richard Miles
“I wanted the collection to be inclusive of ethnicities and really enjoyed working with different textures. As a colourist and stylist it was really cool to work with different palates.
Euphoria is about pushing boundaries and making statements within each shot whilst fusing each one to create something Wow!”
OLIVIA BINCH @ MARK LEESON
Euphoria HAIR:
Olivia Binch @ Mark Leeson
MAKE UP: Lauren Mathis
FASHION: Mark Leeson & Richard Darby
PHOTOGRAPHY: Richard Miles
In the Hot Seat
We spoke to TONI&GUY Global Creative Director, Cos Sakkas, a longstanding member of the multiaward-winning artistic team. As a senior member, he oversees the creativity by the incredible team.
Cos has won London Hairdresser of the Year three times, which resulted in him being inducted into the British Hairdressing Hall of Fame in 2016 – one of the highest awards within the hairdressing industry. Cos’s many accolades have included him being nominated for British Hairdresser of the Year five times, winning in 2022 and 2023. He has also been nominated in 2024. In addition, he is the three-times International Hairdresser of the Year.
From a young age, Cos aspired to join the hairdressing industry and decided to take part in a TONI&GUY Beginner’s Course. Following a tour of the flagship London Academy with an art director, Cos never looked back. Once qualified, Cos ventured into educating full-time and eventually began assisting shows and shoots due to popular demand. Now, nurturing and inspiring the next generation of hairdressers is his number one priority.
After recently winning British Hairdresser of the Year and International Hairdresser of the Year, what’s the next goal you’re currently working towards?
As TONI&GUY Global Creative Director and Head of Education, my goal is to continually develop our teams to the best of their ability. It’s working from grass roots level with apprentices, all the way through to our qualified team members, keeping them on-trend as we launch our new collections and campaigns. I want to empower them to deliver the looks to their clientele. The quality and expertise in our salons is always an ongoing goal.
FUN FACTS
Where do you look for hair inspiration?
London Fashion Week is always my main source of inspiration, as you are amongst the designers, the make-up artists and the models during the creative process. You’re spending time with the artists who are dictating the next trend. It’s a great opportunity to liaise with the designers and it’s a luxury that I get to do that.
What’s your favourite part about being a hairdresser?
For me, it’s the diversity of my work – from spending one day in the salon, then the Academy, then a show or shoot, then a day casting. No two days are the same, but it’s how you accumulate all those days that give you a unique insight into the industry.
When shooting your collections, how do you maximise your efficiency to get the most out your studio time?
Work with a team who have the same vision as you, but will push you to try new things.
Remember it is a hair shoot and you don’t want to detract from the hairstyles you have created, so keep everything else simple and understated. Also make sure you stay focused – don’t be distracted by whacky ideas.
What is your favourite part of being the Global Creative Director for TONI&GUY?
The development and creation of our campaigns and our imagery. This allows me to have that creative expression to set the next trend, and to facilitate the education to take it from campaign to client.
What piece of advice would you give someone who’s currently aiming for a prestigious award?
What are you entering for? What award are you looking for, as there are so many awards out there? You need to keep your focus and decide why. Is it an image award, or a discipline award, like Stylist of the Year or Salon of the Year? What do you want to be awarded for – is your speciality, your team, your business? Every award is different – British Hairdressing Awards is very distinct from the Creative Head or HAIR magazine awards. Identify what you need to spend your time on and what result you want. Is it trade exposure you want to build, your profile, consumer exposure; is it for your salon, your team or yourself? There are so many to choose from, so choose wisely.
Salon or Shoot Days? Shoot days.
If you could do anyone’s hair who would it be, and why?
For me, what is exciting is working with a new face model, because you are potentially part of her image creation and look, which is going to be in shoots, shows, the next campaign face. Working with the next rising star is what really excites me.
What made you become a hairdresser?
Hairdressing wasn’t something I had always wanted to do. I went to college to study business and really enjoyed it, but I didn’t like the idea of just sitting working in an office. I had a friend who worked at TONI&GUY and suggested
I give it a go. As soon as I walked into the TONI&GUY Academy in London I knew that’s where I wanted to be. It was full of cool people, beautiful models, great imagery in the window, it had a really great vibe.
What do you love most about your profession?
The diversity and what the industry can offer you.
Who are your hair icons?
Anthony Mascolo and Eugene Souleiman. More recently, Gary Gill as he’s redefining what fashion is. He’s offering a unique niche on that individuality and street-style which has always been the TONI&GUY philosophy; how to adapt hair for everyday people.
What was your goal in wanting to open your own salon?
It was vital that I was fully equipped to be able to offer the best possible service to all clients, from all walks of life with every hair type imaginable! I would have been ashamed to call myself a hairdresser if I couldn’t work with every type of hair. Because of this I firmly believe that I’ve retained up to 95% of my clients to this very day. I love working on all hair textures – but there is nothing like the challenge and the spring of a curl! I ensure that I listen to clients worries before I even pick up my shears, most curly clients have had bad experiences in the past and I want to make sure they are at ease and fully aware of
the technique that I will use on their curls and the outcome they can expect.
Is there anything you can do long-term to encourage the curl in your hair to behave, or is it all down to clever daily styling?
The best way of looking after your curls long-term is to take care of the condition … ensure you replenish your hairs’ moisture levels regularly with treatments, avoid ingredients in products that can be harsh on your hair or cause build-up. Look out for sulphates and silicones as these can really impact on your curls’ condition and will affect the spring and shine.
Curl
Confidence
If you’ve been blessed with curls, you’ll know they require a bit of upkeep. We spoke to Emma Simmons, owner of Salon 54, who recently won ‘Best textured/Curl Stylist’ at the HAIR Awards 2024, and asked her everything you might’ve wondered about keeping your curls in top condition, why seeking a ‘Curl Expert’ is the right route for you and how she got into cutting curls.
What products would you recommend people wanting to straighten their hair for an occasion?
If you are going to straighten your hair for an occasion the safest way for your hair is to use heat protection. I’d recommend applying a heat protective spray or a smoothing product that also contains heat protection, I like Revlon’s Equave range.
How did you get into specialising in curly hair?
By accident really, I have always worked with curls but I undertook my apprenticeship in a small boutique salon that did lots of Afro hair so it became a significant element of my training. To this day I employ techniques I learned there and adapt them to suit softer curls and waves. 26 years later and the ‘Curly Girl’ method became popular, word got around on social media forums, clients were recommending me, and before I knew it 80% of my clients were wavey, curly or coily. A client pointed out that she had looked on my website and couldn’t find any mention of the fact that I was a curl specialist and that’s when I realised that I was a lot more experienced and confident with curls than I realised and needed to promote that fact.
Do you use a different technique when highlighting curly hair than you would straight hair? If so what technique do you use?
When highlighting curly hair the colour can get lost inside the curls, it’s therefore important to maintain that depth and definition. I find traditional highlighting methods don’t give the required results on my curly clients so I opt more for a bespoke highlighting technique, picking out curls to lighten and ensuring there is plenty of negative space to ensure the colour helps the curls to pop and look super defined.
How often should you treat Afro/ Curly hair and what treatments do you recommend?
Coils and curls are usually a lot drier naturally as the natural oils cannot slide down the hair shaft as easily as on straighter hair. Also we don’t typically dry brush, so again oils don’t get distributed throughout so regular moisturising treatments are needed to ensure softness and bounce and to keep frizz at bay. I recommend either weekly, or bi-weekly, swap conditioner for a mask to give a more intense treatment. I’d also advise that you use a leave-in conditioner at every wash and daily to refresh if needed.
How often do you recommend cutting curly hair?
When it comes to cutting, if the style just needs maintaining, then curly clients are lucky in the fact they can go a little bit longer in between salon visits.
“I would have been ashamed to call myself a hairdresser if I couldn’t work with every type of hair.”
EMMA SIMMONS
Not dry brushing and using heated tools means that the mechanical and heat damage are much less, therefore split ends don’t tend to make an appearance quite as quickly. Most of my curl clients go 10-12 weeks between cuts.
How different is it cutting curly hair to cutting straight hair?
The foundation of the hair cut is the same, the angles and elevations when creating graduation or layering don’t change, but what is different is the tension. I cut most of my curly clients dry, that way I can see exactly how much length and weight I’m removing. I can see the shape building, I don’t use a comb, I cut each curl freehand, not stretching it, allowing it to fall in its natural curl pattern. This way I don’t risk it shrinking 5cm when it’s dry and I can see how it sits in its natural state. I find clients feel more relaxed with this approach too.
WINNER
Emma Simmons, won ‘Best textured/ Curl Stylist’ at the HAIR Awards 2024
Is there a difference in colouring curly hair? If so what is it / your technique?
When it comes to colouring curly hair, I aim to get the result with the kindest products - using harsh products can damage the curl pattern so I opt for more glosses and demi permanents. I love the shine that Revlon’s Colour Excel gives curls, the formula is gentle, and conditions whilst depositing colour, leaving curls bouncy and shiny. When lightening I always use a low and slow method, the condition of the curls is priority. Blonde Solutions is my go-to for lightening services in curls as it keeps that curl pattern intact, whilst delivering a clean lift.
With Autumn beckoning, so many of us feel like the need for change in alignment with the seasons. We spoke to award winning hairdresser Fergal Doyle to hopefully provide you with all you need to know in the name of colour!
Before taking the plunge, its important to be assured that if you are in the right hands – there is nothing to fear about revving up your colour! The majority of hairdressers agree with us here at HAIR that colour is what makes a great cut, and salon statistics seem to confirm this, with over half of us booking in for colour services and here are just some of the reasons:
• Colour can help fine hair look thicker
• Colour can make your look glossier
• Colour can really accentuate your hair cut
Today your hair doesn’t have to suffer in the name of colour – in fact, it can improve its condition. Advanced products mean a whole range of new sophisticated effects can be achieved to create lightness, dimension, shine and shape within your hair and no one need ever know you’ve been near a head of foils. Fergal Doyle of award-winning Fergal Doyle Hair comments: “Most people who
decide to colour their hair want it to look as natural as possible. Great natural-looking colour is all in the placement, so you really need a professional to get a professional-looking job. And by the same token, an in-depth consultation with a colour expert is crucial.” Fergal has helped us list some very important steps to think about when making a change.
Choosing a colourist
Using a home colourant may be the cheapest way to get a quick colour change, but it’s certainly not the best. There are some great home products out there, but you must know what you’re doing. Colour experts have a skilled eye and will know instantly what will and what won’t work. A professional’s expertise can guide you in the right colour direction that complements your skin tone, lifestyle and budget. They can perform colouring techniques that would be impossible at home and eliminate the risk of any colour disasters that may occur.
CLINIC
COLOUR EXPERT
Bristol-based awardwinning hairdresser Fergal Doyle
Its
good to talk
Choosing a new colour or even a subtle change shouldn’t be a hasty decision. All reputable salons will offer free in-depth advice, which is your chance to ask the questions you want answered and to air any concerns you have about changing your shade.
Bring photos
It’s quite hard to explain the colour you want without pictures, so bring them! Choose pictures off Pinterest and other platforms of hair colours and styles that you like, as well as those you don’t like, so your colourist can get on the same wavelength.
Be realistic
There’s no point in investing hard-earned cash to go from mousey brown to platinum blonde if you can’t afford the upkeep. You’ll be at the salon every four weeks getting your roots retouched, which can suck the life from your bank balance. You need to decide if you’re a high or low-maintenance kind of person. Find out from your hairdresser what products you can use to maintain the colour for longer.
Be yourself
When you go for a consultation, don’t be tempted to dress down or to ditch the make-up; your colourist needs to see the real you and will make their decision based on small clues that identify your character and personal style.
Be true to your hue and tone
Hair colour is like makeup – it must stay within a certain shade range to look good with your skin tone and eye colour. The best colour changes work within two or three shades of your natural colour. Multi-tonal colour creates a natural-looking finish, but block colour is the buzzword this season for its glossy, luxurious finish.
Talk texture
Your hair’s texture is another factor in good colouring. Highlights are good for fine hair as they create the illusion of depth and volume, as well as slightly swelling the hair shaft to make hair thicker.
“You can achieve a lot with a good haircut, but when you add colour, it really comes to life”
FERGAL DOYLE
All-over colour can help thick, unruly hair and curls look sleeker and smoother. Colouring your hair can make it appear thick, full and glossy. Just using different techniques that play on light and dark with lowlights and highlights can make even grey, wiry hair seem glossy.
Find a good colourist
While your best friend may claim to be great at home colouring, nothing beats the years of experience accumulated by a professional colourist especially if you’re a first timer. Get a recommendation, then book in for a consultation with your colourist and have a patch test before your appointment.
Cut and colour
Just as a great cut is determined by your face shape, your colour should work with your haircut and skin tone. You can achieve a lot with a good haircut, but when you add colour, it really comes to life.
Colour can turn back the clock
The right shade for your skin tone can make you look younger, without a needle. Okay – it won’t eliminate wrinkles, but it can give the skin a radiance that instantly makes you look fresher. So, even if you’re not quite at the surgery stage yet, who wouldn’t say yes to looking 5 years younger? If your blonde has gone mousey or you’ve spotted your first few greys, strategically placed colour, especially around the hairline, can be really flattering.
Colour can bump up shine
Multi-tonal colour, vegetable rinses and colour enhancing shampoos work to pick out light-reflecting pigments, leaving your hair with gorgeous radiance. Colour increases shine, especially if you go for a darker shade. Light reflects off fresh brunette colour creating amazing shine, but the application of the colour itself increases shine too, as it smoothes down the cuticles on each hair. That’s why its essential to apply weekly conditioning treatments – they keep the moisture in, the cuticles flat and the hair shiny. Conditioning is especially important when you have block colour – the look is luxe, so if you pamper your hair and give it the TLC it deserves, the colour will stay glossy and true for longer.
Grey matters
When it comes to grey hair what are your options? It all depends on how grey you are. If you’ve just noticed a few hairs, you can ask your colourist to combine highlights and lowlights to blend them in, or you can camouflage them with a semipermanent colour. When you make the transition from a ‘few’ to ‘too many to tone in’, you need to think about permanent colour. Remember the greyer your hair, the lighter you may need to go, but keep within a shade range that works with your skin tone and eye colour.
The science bit
Deciding which shade, let alone which colour technique is best for you can be confusing if you’re dabbling for the first time but you shouldn’t be afraid. Try to determine in simple terms what effect you’re after to make sure your colourist is on the right track. Do you want your colour to be subtle, or really shout and make a statement? Do you want visible stripes or a block of colour? Again, pictures are a great point of reference, but a skilled colourist will be able to figure out the best combination and placement of colour for you.
● To find Fergal:
Fergal Doyle Hair
19 Druid Hill
Stoke Bishop
Bristol BS9 1EW
GIMME FIVE
Protect your colour investment with products formulated to care for chemically treated locks. Here are our 5 top colour recommendations:
L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Absolut Repair Oil
RRP £29.20
Fergal Doyle Hair
154 Whiteladies Road
Clifton
Bristol BS8 2XZ
YOUR COLOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED
How does my skin tone affect the colour I want to go?
Most people suit a neutral tone – not too warm and not too cool. Pink skins don’t suit gold or orange tones and olive skins don’t suit blue based colours as in cool tones. A good consultation will take all these factors into consideration.
Will colour cover my grey?
Permanent colourants will cover up grey, and highlights will also help to blend grey hair into your natural hair colour. Speak to your colourist as soon as you spot your first grey hair and discuss the best options for you.
Whats the difference between highlights and lowlights?
Highlights lighten your hair and lowlights darken to add dimension. People often use highlights to describe blonde and lowlights to describe any other colour, but both are a partial colour technique and will vary depending on your base shade.
Pureology Color
Fanatic Multi-Purpose Hair Spray
RRP £31.20
L’Oréal Professional Absolut Repair Molecular Rinse Off Serum
RRP £30.50
Redken Acidic Color Gloss Shampoo and Conditioner
RRP £51.40
What’s the best aftercare steps to care for colour?
It’s inevitable that all hair dyes will eventually fade, but you can take steps to minimise the fading process and help retain that ‘just stepped out the salon shine’. It’s important to treat your hair with extra care once you’ve had your colour appointment. Specialist colour maintenance shampoos and conditioners are designed to get the most out of your hair colour and keep it looking shiny and fresh. Avoid over-washing your colour treated hair as this will also encourage fading. If you can, wash your hair three times a week only. The best way to give your shade a boost between appointments is to invest in a colour deposit shampoo, which will pep-up your shade with a small amount of pigment, or pop back for a gloss treatment to enhance the colour slightly and add lots of shine.
HAIRCUTS4HOMELESS ARE AS VULNERABLE AS YOU ARE
Haircuts4Homeless have built a community of skilled hairdressing volunteers who give their time free of charge to provide haircuts for homeless people. Today, we are a registered charity with 56 projects across the UK – from Brighton to Birmingham; Peterborough to Portsmouth, offering regular haircuts to the homeless.
Each of the Haircuts4Homeless centres have approximately five volunteers who operate once a month giving around 25-30 haircuts. This equates to approximately 1,680 free haircuts a month; 20,160 per year.
The impact of our work is uniquely measured in smiles. We literally witness their transformation before your eyes. Their demeanour, mood and confidence boosted with the service we give. We often get thanked by a guest who had an interview and got the job; or saw their child for the first time in a long time and felt proud of their appearance. Our return rate for guests is around 50% regulars but we love it when we see a guest for the last time because it means they have been allocated accommodation and are moving on in their life.
With a little help from our friends our work can continue to grow.
Let us be your charity.
EMOCHIC
Showcasing a fusion of her love for the emo / punk trend with a nod to 90s androgynous fashion, Emma Simmons takes her inspiration from the streets and mixes it with an expensive chic look. The resulting collection is a blend of strong attitudes, high-octane emotions and Boujee individuality.
STYLING:
PHOTOGRAPHY:
Emochic HAIR: Emma Simmons at Salon 54
MAKE UP:
Megumi Matsuno
Anna Latham
Andrew O’Toole
Emochic HAIR:
Emma Simmons at Salon 54
MAKE UP:
Megumi Matsuno
STYLING:
Anna Latham
PHOTOGRAPHY: Andrew O’Toole
Emochic
HAIR: Emma Simmons at Salon 54
MAKE UP: Megumi Matsuno
STYLING: Anna Latham
PHOTOGRAPHY: Andrew O’Toole
PHOTOGRAPHY:
Emochic HAIR:
Emma Simmons at Salon 54
MAKE UP: Megumi Matsuno
STYLING: Anna Latham
Andrew O’Toole
REVLON PROFESSIONAL EQUAVE SUN PROTECTION INSTANT DETANGLING CONDITIONER
This detangling conditioner for sun exposed hair has been formulated with UVA/UVB protection to help prevent damage caused by sun exposure. Perfect for any holidays you have coming up, this conditioner gives 9x easier detangling and provides heat protection to 220°C, perfect for beach and poolside trips. Plus, with its convenient on-the-go 100ml size, it’s the ideal size for travelling.
BOUCLÈME CURL DEFENCE SPRAY
This new Indola root-lift spray with Panthenol and Glycerine helps to protect the hair from drying out whilst adding a boost to your roots creating an effortless volume to your hair.
BONDIBOOST HAIR STRAIGHTENER WITH ALOE INFUSED PLATES
Made with aloe powder-infused plates, the BondiBoost Aloe Plated Flat Iron promotes ultra-smooth, shiny and soft lengths. Ready to use in just 90 seconds, the sleek straightener features ceramic-coated tourmaline floating plates that work to glide over the hair without clamping, tugging and catching, supporting effortless, fuss-free styling. Ionic technology helps to defend from flyaways and the effects of humidity, ensuring your hair stays poker-straight or softly waved as desired.
New on the shelf
Designed with curls, coils, and waves in mind, the new Curl Defence Spray from Bouclème helps protect strands against heat damage, UV rays, pollution, humidity, and brushing. Water-based and non-greasy, the spray has been carefully formulated with 99% naturally derived vegan ingredients, making it not only perfect for curls, but kind for the planet too. The antioxidant rich formula simultaneously works to support hair health, keeps curls nourished and strong, minimise breakage, and provides long lasting styling effects even in high humidity.
K18 DAMAGE SHIELD PROTECTIVE CONDITIONER
Clinically proven to provide conditioning protection against damage from UV rays, mechanical styling, and environmental aggressors for up to 3 days, this incredible conditioner protects hair from damage until your next wash. K18’s nourishing conditioner fortifies, softens and detangles hair while helping to protect against damage from daily mechanical styling, UV-rays and environmental stressors. The pH-optimised formula minimises excess cuticle swelling during washing, to help keep hair smooth and maximise shine, then softens, smooths, and detangles, without film-forming silicones or waxes that can build up over time, weighing hair down.
REHAB. MINI TRAVEL KIT
Designed to make haircare easy regardless of location, this kit covers all bases in your hair wash routine. The REHAB. Mini Travel Kit includes the new Mini Dose 1.0 Hair Oil, Mini Vital Hair Brush, Mini Hair Perfume, Shampoo Sheets and Conditioner Sheets. Each product has been carefully formulated to provide maximum benefits in eco and travel-friendly packaging and continues to be 100% vegan and cruelty-free, as well as Sulphate and parabenfree. REHAB.’s single-use shampoo and conditioner sheets transform with water, creating a rich lather that cleanses and hydrates hair while promoting strength and shine. Formulated with rosemary, olive, and calendula oils, this shampoo is zero-waste and plastic-free, and the perfect travel companion. Drop the empty sachet in the shower to dissolve.
INDOLA LIFT IT UP
PALMER’S COCONUT OIL FORMULA BONDING HAIR GLOSS
A fast-acting, high gloss treatment that strengthens damaged bonds, reduces breakage, and provides brilliant shine, softness, and hydration. After shampooing and conditioning, spray from root to tip until saturated. Leave on for 3 to 5 minutes then rinse thoroughly. It’s a fast and easy way to strengthen your hair.
COCO & EVE REPAIRING & RESTORING SHAMPOO
Coco & Eve’s new Shampoo focuses on brittle, dry and damaged hair types. The formula is enriched with ingredients that provide deep hydration and moisture, while cleansing the hair of impurities and build-up to improve the condition of hair that has been subject to heat and chemical damage. Vitamin B5 and biomimetic ceramides lock in hydration to offer a smooth finish. The shampoo’s banana, guava and coconut infusions impart an array of tropical sensations, leaving your hair smelling fresh and clean after every wash.
BATISTE OVERNIGHT DEEP CLEANSE DRY SHAMPOO
Wake up to that fresh hair feeling with the new Batiste Overnight Deep Cleanse Dry Shampoo. The overnight dry shampoo allows you to save time by skipping the lengthy hair wash. Perfect for those with a busy schedule, the combination of rice starch, charcoal and baking soda absorbs excess oil and shine as you sleep. Infused with a soothing scent of jasmine, patchouli and orange blossom, the formula lets you wake up to hair that smells as good as it looks.
GHD DUET BLOWDRY
Designed for use on wet hair, the new ghd duet blowdry is the first tool to use Heat-Air Xchange Technology™ – a pioneering aerodynamic system that harnesses airflow to actively heat the barrel and snag-free bristles – creating salon-worthy blow dries at home, with no heat damage. This gentle way of drying hair at the optimal low temperature through air flow, surface heat and snag-free heated bristles locks in your style for an
COLOR WOW POP & LOCK HIGH GLOSS FINISH
Add mirror-like sheen to your style with Color WOW’s Pop and Lock High Gloss Finish, a weightless hair serum that delivers the conditioning benefits of an oil and the radiance-reviving properties of a serum. Suitable for use on wet or dry hair, the crystal-clear formula utilises a powerful UV filter to lock in colour and prevent fading, whilst protecting from environmental aggressors that can lead to dullness. The high-performance formula helps to temporarily seal cuticles, while providing superior hydration to leave locks vibrant, glossy and super soft.
AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT PLIABLE STYLING PASTE
Available from September 2024, Authentic Beauty Concept’s latest innovation in hairstyling is the new Pliable Styling Paste. Designed for session stylists and salon stylists alike to create reworkable looks, the new must-have styling paste delivers defined-yet-light control. Ideal for short and mid-length styles, for men and women, the new Pliable Styling Paste is non-greasy and allows you to rework looks, whether smooth or more textured with an authentic finish.
OUAI ST. BARTS HAIR AND BODY MIST
A trip to paradise awaits with the St. Barts Hair and Body Mist by OUAI. The 2-in-1 spray stars an uplifting citrus floral fragrance that offers a tropical olfactory experience. It’s a must for any upcoming holidays.
UKHAIR SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER
For cleansing and clarifying the scalp to create the perfect environment for growth UKHAIR Shampoo’s pro-active formula clarifies and stimulates the scalp; paving the way for optimum growth. While the nourishing conditionerpromotes stronger and longer-looking hair UKHAIR Conditioner deeply nourishes and hydrates strands, keeping hair happy for long-term growth.
It’s more than just a cut...
We spoke to Charles Rose, Director of Crate Cheshire, Hair Awards 2024 Men’s Specialist Salon Winner.
Crate Cheshire’s vision has been to revolutionise men’s hairdressing, offering a premium experience beyond traditional barbershops. Their salon provides a full spectrum of male grooming services, from scissor cuts to eyebrow waxes, creating a diverse and inclusive environment. With a focus on client experience, their team is dedicated to delivering the highest standards, offering appointments, consultations, and personalized service. They’ve elevated the salon experience by incorporating a fully licensed bar, hosting events, and establishing a mental health group, ‘Short Chat and Sides,’ showcasing their commitment to community well-being.
What inspired you to pursue a career in barbering?
At the start of my career, I initially trained as hairdresser, however I soon realised that I just loved working with shorter hair. I started to realise that this sort of work was what I wanted to do for the rest of my career, so from there it inspired me to look into the world of barbering. I wanted to head into the industry with fresh ideas and incorporate my hairdressing background to create different looks and shapes.
Many barbers would dream of owning three salons, could you tell us how you managed to achieve this and in what time frame?
It’s been a good six years and we are so proud of what we have achieved at Crate Cheshire in this time. Obviously, we’ve faced some challenges along the way. COVID threw a huge spanner in the works, and we also had a flood that badly affected one of our salons and set us back a bit. However, I believe the key to overcoming obstacles and achieving your goals is to have good people around you. A strong team really makes a difference and it’s crucial to take care of your team too - if you promise them something, make sure you deliver! Ultimately, having a great team is essential, but it’s equally important to look after them and create a friendly, inclusive and supportive environment to enable them to thrive.
“I believe the key to overcoming obstacles and achieving your goals is to have good people around you.”
CHARLES ROSE
What have you found most challenging in regard to business growth?
COVID was definitely one of the biggest challenges we faced as it had a significant impact on the industry as a whole. The flood was another major setback - it completely wiped out one of our salons, leaving us to start again without any furniture or appliances. Despite these difficulties, we’re always focused on growing our team and inviting new people to join and grow with us. It’s important for us to communicate that we genuinely want to promise things and deliver on them. I understand that some people may have been let down by previous bosses, but we want to make it clear that we’re different and we are committed to helping individuals grow in their own careers.
Which role do you prefer? Behind the chair or as an educator?
This is a really difficult one for me and I honestly don’t think I could choose between one or the other! I love being behind the chair every day, having a laugh with the team and creating awesome styles – each haircut is also different, which keeps my mind active. However I love educating because it’s a great way to give back to the industry, and it also reinforces and reminds me of the fundamentals of barbering and hairdressing.
What’s your advice for someone new to the industry?
My advice to someone just starting out in the industry is to just say yes to any opportunity that comes your way and to keep learning. I’ve been doing this for about 15 years now, if not longer, and it’s important not to limit yourself to just the education you’re told to pursue – get as much experience as you can! Keep learning from anyone and everyone, no matter how long they’ve been in the field.
How do you keep on top of seasonal trends within your salon group?
We conduct monthly education sessions, which could be led by one of our stylists or anyone else on the team. Each month, we focus on new trends and styles, exploring the latest techniques. This includes analysing fashion weeks, reviewing the latest magazines, and keeping up with other industry releases. We’re committed to staying on top of seasonal trends.
How do you ‘police’ your social media?
Recently, we brought on a new social media team member, and I have weekly meetings with them to keep an eye on our social media presence. Previously, we encouraged all team members to have input on our social media strategy, and they still do. It’s important to involve everyone in deciding what our clients and audience want to see. During our monthly meetings, we discuss with the team to understand their clients’ preferences and brainstorm what content should be shared to attract more clientele. So, again, it’s a big team effort.
Are clients good at rebooking or still feel that it’s okay to just pitch up for a walk-in?
We have a rule that after every appointment, we offer clients the opportunity to rebook while they’re still in the salon, face to face. It also creates a nice connection at the end of their appointment. Most clients are now in the habit of rebooking before they leave, and they really appreciate it. Of course, they can also rebook online or give us a call later, but I always encourage our team to offer that option in person before the client leaves.
Is there anything that frustrates you about the barbering industry?
There isn’t anything day-to-day that frustrates me about the work itself. I think every industry has its share of egos, and I’d like to break down those barriers so that we all see each other as equals. It doesn’t matter how big or small your name is within the hairdressing/barbering world; we should all be helping each other and growing together as an industry.
Sometimes there is also a perception from outside of the barbering/hair industry, that you become a hairdresser or barber because you didn’t do very well at school. But in reality, as an industry we have incredibly valuable skill sets and have to work extremely hard to reach the levels and goals we want to achieve – we shouldn’t be looked down upon just because we’re in a service industry.
What’s the difference between barbering and men’s grooming?
I believe that barbering and men’s grooming should almost be mixed together, as the difference largely comes down to terminology and personal preference. Whether you call it men’s hairdressing, men’s barbering, short hair dressing, or short hair barbering, the core services are often quite similar. The industry is evolving however, and we’re also seeing more scissor work in barbering today.
Personally, I don’t see a significant difference between the terms; it’s more about how you choose to describe it. I prefer to use terms like barbering or hairdressing because they are more gender neutral. The term “men’s grooming” specifically refers to services for men, but it’s worth noting that women also receive barber-style haircuts. I therefore think using terms like barbering or short hair hairdressing feels more inclusive and accurate.
How important is it for you to have a supportive product manufacturer? It’s crucial to recognise the impact that the right products can have on a haircut. Even if you have the best technique and skill, using the wrong product can immediately alter the look and feel of the style. Therefore, it’s essential to use professional products to finish the hair and truly showcase your work.
Investing in high-quality products is worthwhile. When you explain to clients why you use a particular product, they understand its value and are often willing to invest in it, even if it’s a bit more expensive than what they were using before. They’ll appreciate the difference it makes and will be more inclined to continue using it.
What are your long-term goals for Crate?
The long-term goals for Crate are to continue building and developing our team, helping them to advance in their careers and achieve their professional aspirations. We aim to support everyone who is part of Crate, whether that means opening new salons, launching additional academies across the country, or any other growth opportunities. Our focus is on enabling each individual to grow and thrive within Crate, and if we can help them achieve their goals through our salons, that’s precisely what we want to do.
TO FIND CRATE
Unit B, 18 Weaver Point Way, Barons Quay, Northwich CW9 5FT 01606 41859
4 Minshull Street Knutsford WA16 6HG 01565 631176
51 Chestergate Macclesfield SK11 6DG 01625 420222
First thing in the morning, what’s your hair styling routine?
A You’re a strict wash and out the door type of person, it has to be kept quick and simple.
B You tailor your styling routine depending on the occasion and the time you have available that day.
C You apply both heat protectant and your favourite product before you blowdry.
How long have you had your current hairstyle?
A You had a few inches cut off last year… or was it the year before?
B You paid your hairdresser a visit just this week!
C You’re booked in for a trim every few months to keep on top of your hair health and growth.
Which celebrity hairstyle inspires you the most?
A Sabrina Carpenter, the same style always. Its what suits you best.
B Kim Kardashian, Rihanna…! You name it I want to try it!
C Hailey Bieber! A slight change with her colour and it looks better than ever!
makeover?
How many styling products do you own?
A An ancient can of hairspray.
B Your hair drawer is full to the brim, every time you see a new hair product on the market, you have your eyes set on it almost immediately.
C About three or four staple products that have been recommended to you by your friends or hairdresser.
When you see your friends after a while, what do they say to you?
A Oh Wow! You haven’t changed one bit!
B I wouldn’t have recognised you – you’ve changed so much!
C Wow, you look great!
MOSTLY A
We’re sorry to say, but you’re stuck in a safe hair rut! Hair shouldn’t be a security blanket; it should be an extension of your personality and style. The great news is that you don’t need a major overhaul to freshen up your style. Subtle highlights are a great introduction to colour and they can actually make your hair look thicker, glossier and healthier. You should also ask for some layers and bangs, this way you’ll still maintain the length but it will give your hair the update it deserves. Take some inspiration from Instagram and Pinterest to show to your stylist the next time you’re in the salon.
How are your spilt ends?
A Your hair is fried and in desperate need of some moisture.
B What split ends? Your constant trims keep spilt ends at bay.
C There are a few however nothing serious that you need to take action on.
What do you usally ask for when you go to your hairdresser?
A Just a trim.
B A full new look!
C Suggestions for a new style and what may suit you better.
How much input does your hairdresser have on your hair?
A None at all, You’ve had the same haircut forever. No matter if another hairstyle might suit you better.
B Loads! You love to hear your hairstylists’ imput and all the new ideas they may have.
C Some. You listen and take on board what they might have to say along with your own ideas.
What usally makes you decide to change up your hair?
A Childbirth, a breakup, or any other significant event.
B Anything!
C Celebrities!
What’s the most daring thing you have done to your hair?
A You’ve always kept your hair very basic.
B You love to change up your hairstyle by using extensions, and colouring your hair!
C You have tried a few different hair colours from time to time.
On a night out, what is your go to hairstyle?
A The same as what you always do.
B You will book an appointment at your local hairdresser for a fancy blowdry.
C You experiment before the big day to see what looks best.
MOSTLY B
If anyone has the confidence to pull off a seriously radical new do, it’s you! You’re hair made and up to date with all the newest trends. Always remember to use a hair stylist for help with your style switches. We don’t want any hair disasters here! Congratulations for taking your tresses to that next level – keep at it and with your stylists’ help you’ll be setting trends that others will want to follow!
MOSTLY C
You’ve got what it takes to make some changes to your existing style and keeping touch with new hair trends, but you’re not completely ready to overhaul your look. Instead of going for a radical new style once a year, ask your stylist to keep evolving your existing cut or colour forward. By gradually transforming your hair every couple of months, you’ll always be one step ahead of the game.
evoke
HAIR: Angelo Seminara
HAIR COLOUR:
PHOTOGRAPHY: Andrew O’Toole
MAKE-UP: Daniel Kolaric
PRODUCTION: Iconic Crew
STUDIO:
CS Media – SE1 Studios
Evoke
Angelo Seminara Colour Team
PHOTOGRAPHY:
MAKE-UP:
PRODUCTION:
STUDIO:
CS Media – SE1 Studios
Evoke
HAIR: Angelo Seminara
HAIR COLOUR: Angelo Seminara Colour Team
Andrew O’Toole
Daniel Kolaric
Iconic Crew
HAIR:
Angelo Seminara
HAIR COLOUR:
Angelo Seminara Colour Team
PHOTOGRAPHY:
Andrew O’Toole
MAKE-UP:
Daniel Kolaric
PRODUCTION:
Iconic Crew
STUDIO:
CS Media – SE1 Studios
Evoke
PHOTOGRAPHY:
MAKE-UP: Daniel
PRODUCTION: Iconic
STUDIO:
CS Media – SE1 Studios
Evoke
HAIR:
Angelo Seminara
HAIR COLOUR: Angelo Seminara Colour Team
Andrew O’Toole
Kolaric
Crew
Meet Tom Smith – recently dubbed ‘The Hairvoyant’ by The Sunday Times for his ability to unpick and predict trends sending them viral on his social media.
Autumn Hair Trends
Tom’s passion for hair is both creative and cerebral, believing a mindful approach to hairdressing can empower and bring purpose to life, truly cementing identity. Unique in his approach, Tom told Hair Magazine “I believe hair should be an entirely positive experience with my drive being to help everyone improve their relationship with their hair. My trend work is designed to provide inspiration for everyone, no matter their hair type or personal style. I coin every hairstyle name I present, with a view to exciting the reader with new visuals and ideas to help evolve their personal style in becoming the person they want to present to the world”.
“I believe hair should be an entirely positive experience with my drive being to help everyone improve their relationship with their hair.”
TOM SMITH
Autumn/Winter Colours
As the warmer months draw to a close, we predictably see an intensity of tone return. The themes of indulgence and richness that we’ve seen throughout this year sustained with a continued focus on hair health, and overall quality of shape and tone.
As expected this time of year a redhead shade returns in the form of TERRACOPPER – an earthy and intense copper shade that is a little more vibrant than that which would be naturally occurring. SUNFLOWER BLONDE sustains strongly from Summer and continues to offer richness and intensity to those with lighter hair. I’m pleased that NATURAL GREYS continue to be celebrated with multiple references and examples of how to work ‘with’ one’s changing natural colour, rather than fighting against it. And we’ll continue the ‘year of the brunette’ as we started it, with another indulgent brunette tone of CINDER TOFFEE that’s far richer and warmer than the muted shades we saw throughout summer.
Autumn hair combines cosiness and warmth with a regal, ethereal and vibrant energy.
Cinder Toffee Brunette
A rich and intense tone for the brunette, this shade glows with similar tones to sunflower blonde but works on deeper bases. The tones are totally warm and combine chocolate, caramels and intense golds to give a reflective and youthful shine to the hair.
SUITABLE FOR: “This shade works well on all skin tones, but may feel too intense for those with naturally more sallow or golden tone complexions. This can be achieved with an all over colour or incorporated into a darker base with various dimensional tones in high/low lights.”
Sunflower Blonde
Sustaining from Summer, stronger than ever, this is as warm as a blonde can be before it turns into a copper, the intensely golden shades have been trending for the entire year so far but continue to grow in popularity. Warmer shades help the hair to look healthier and glow in the light and give the feeling of youthfulness.
SUITABLE FOR: “This shade typically works on naturally warmer skin tones of any depth and can be achieved as an all over colour, or incorporated as part of a highlight or balayage technique if depth and dimension is preferred.”
Natural Greys
Either left out entirely or incorporated as part of a hair colour design, we are seeing more and more references of natural grey hair, in blonde hair (whether natural or highlighted) grey hair can brighten and increase reflection in the blonde, while naturally darker bases will find the greys stand out more and make more of a statement. They can be enhanced or disguised with cleverly placed high or low lights and make for a more low maintenance colour option than covering them up entirely.
SUITABLE FOR: “Great for those who wish to honour their natural selves or who prefer a lower maintenance colour, grey hairs can be a great tool to incorporate into a hair colour design but are also perfectly acceptable left out entirely for the most natural age-positive look.”
“My trend work is designed to provide inspiration for everyone, no matter their hair type...”
Terracopper
A rich and intense terracotta, copper shade that is just a bit bolder than a naturally occurring redhead. This can be achieved all over as a ‘global’ colour or can be achieved with a semi-permanent gloss on top of highlights or balayage.
SUITABLE FOR: “Great on those with fairer complexions or those who have pink undertones to their skin, the warmth of this shade can help the skin to appear more golden and rich.”
TOM SMITH
Ingredients Spotlight
Unlocking the Potential: How Retinol Revolutionises Haircare. Retinol is a popular ingredient known for its amazing effects on the skin. It’s great at smoothing out wrinkles, controlling oil, and making your skin look fresh. But did you know it can also do wonders for your hair and scalp?
Research shows that retinol can actually help your hair grow better. It does this by making the phase when your hair grows longer last longer. It also helps turn those fine baby hairs into stronger ones and works well with other hair growth products. Plus, it helps your scalp stay healthy and lets other ingredients sink in better.
Some people wonder if retinol works well with hair loss treatments like Minoxidil. Studies suggest that using them together can make your hair grow even better, especially for people with certain types of hair loss.
Using retinol in hair care is becoming more popular, and experts think it could really help improve your hair. It might boost blood flow to your hair follicles, which can make your hair grow faster. It could also make your scalp healthier.
But, like with anything new, there are some things to be careful about. Using retinol on your hair and scalp might cause irritation or dryness. That’s why it’s important to use it carefully and pick products with lower levels of retinol to avoid any problems.
In the end, retinol could be a gamechanger for your hair. As we learn more about its benefits, products with retinol could become a go-to for healthier, stronger hair. With the right info and care, retinol might just be the key to getting the hair you’ve always wanted.
WHAT’S IN STORE...
specialist
Victoria Lynch with extension
Considering hair extensions?
HAIR spoke to Victoria Lynch, Managing Director and Founder of Remi Cachet, to get the low down on what to consider before taking the plunge.
A lot of people get hair extensions when suffering with hair loss / hair thinning. Do hair extensions cause any damage to weak / thinning hair?
Hair extensions are not suitable for anyone going through active hair loss. Extensions will increase weight and tension on your hair strands and then accelerate further hair loss.
What different types of hair extensions best suit different types of hair?
There are a variety of hair extensions that can cater to everyone’s needs. If your hair is thin or delicate, too many extensions make them harder to conceal. Your extension professional should be able to establish this through the consultation. It is really important that extension professionals offer more than one range and application type, to ensure suitability across client needs.
Does your hair have to be a certain length to get hair extensions?
Yes, your hair needs to be long enough to attach to and also blend the extensions naturally. The minimum recommended length is at least 5", or 3" in the nape section.
Can you get hair extensions if you have a sensitive scalp?
Yes. Sensitivity often relates to product reactions that can inflame the scalp area. Extensions are not attached to the scalp, but the professional should decide based on the severity of the condition. If full access to the scalp is needed for treatments with serious conditions, extensions may not be suitable, but for general sensitivities, there is usually no issue. We would recommend doing some test strands at the consultation, and see how the clients feel before full application.
What’s the secret to maintaining healthy hair extensions that last?
Regular maintenance and good quality aftercare is key to maintaining the longevity of your hair extensions. It’s more than just shampoo and conditioner; additional protection products, such as oil or leave-in sprays, are great to protect your hair from daily elements and heat.
Are extensions suitable for every hair type?
Mostly yes, although certain types of textures may be difficult to match. The key is to ensure the client’s hair is suitable for what works for them specifically vs what you can provide.
How do you avoid your hair extensions from matting your natural hair?
Longer length and greater volume needs more attention. Separating the hair thoroughly and ensuring brushing occurs throughout, from root to tip, and in some cases shorten the time between appointments.
What difference will you find between human and synthetic hair and which would you recommend?
I would always recommend human hair as it will naturally blend better and replicate the natural look, so it will last much longer and, most importantly, it’s sustainable and fully recyclable.
A BIT ON VICTORIA
Victoria Lynch is the Managing Director and Founder of hair extension specialist business Additional Lengths and premium hair extension brand Remi Cachet. An award-winning entrepreneur and product innovator, Victoria has successfully grown her business from humble beginnings to a 20,000 sq ft distribution centre and office for global distribution channels, as well as a store and a specialist salon. Today, the business stands out in the industry for its commitment to quality, durability and transparent practices. With ambitious plans to expand globally, Victoria is currently prioritising growth in the US market and enhancing workplace environments to attract and retain top talent.
“Regular maintenance and good quality aftercare is key to maintaining the longevity of your hair extensions.”
VICTORIA LYNCH
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