Hairdressers Journal International May 2020

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

S U IR V A N O R O C : E IV S U L C EX IMPACT RESULTS May 2020|hji.co.uk

Tracey Devine Smith

CONTENTS

May 2020 News

05

Industry News Keep your finger on the pulse with this month’s news round-up

Business

14

Digital What to check out online this month

18

Big Debate Should clients dye their hair at home?

21

Protection During Lockdown 5 ways to protect your salon business right now

24

Baby Boom How to prepare for a staff member’s maternity leave

26

Covid-19 Advice Tips for salon owners and self-employed hairdressers

27

HJ Insider An insight into the UK hairdressing industry in January/February 2020

Features

28

Conversations on Colour An exclusive interview with Brooks & Brooks’ education director

42

14

37

30

Scissor Happy The techniques for recreating on-trend looks

79

The Hot List The products to stock in your salon this month

32

Meet Your New BFF Scissors for every price-point

84

37

Salon Interior SOS The experts reveal how to overcome design and renovation problems

Interiors Take a tour of Adam Reed’s new London salon

86

Careers Jenn Linton on juggling it all

88

Life Through a Lens Tracey Devine Smith reveals her most-loved images

Inspiration

49

Fashion Six exclusive fashion collections

Regulars

44

Men’s Trends Men’s news and an exclusive fashion collection

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86

Executive Director Jayne Lewis-Orr jayne@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7360

Managing Director Mark Moloney

5

We l c o m e

W

88

30

elcome to HJ’s first exclusively digital edition. In the light of the current lockdown we have created a completely digital May issue. This means everyone who would normally read the issue in the salon staffroom, on a lunchbreak or on the salon floor with their clients can still enjoy it while being

stuck at home.

We really hope you enjoy flicking through our special interactive pages, which feature the same exclusive collections, inspiration, hints, tips and expert profile interviews that you would normally find within our printed edition.

We have the results from HJ’s survey on how the coronavirus is affecting the hairdressing industry in this issue. On page 5 you’ll see if the way you’re handling lockdown is the same or different to those who took part. If that isn’t enough, we’ve also got the exclusive results from our first ever Insider survey. This is a new initiative where we’ll be sharing insights from salon businesses on a monthly basis. We’ve kicked it off with statistics from January and February this year (before salons officially closed) and asked respondents to compare those two months with the same time period last year.

We’d love all of you to take part in our new surveys moving forward.

Our aim is to paint a bigger picture of the industry that will help us all to thrive once the lockdown is over. If you’d like to opt into our email newsletter database go to https://www.hji.co.uk/hji-newsletter/.

Team HJ is incredibly proud and honoured to be part of the buzzing and vibrant hairdressing world. The lockdown is a reminder of the generosity of everyone within our sector. There are many hairdressers, salons and brands donating to the NHS and helping one another in any way they can during these difficult times.

We’re thoroughly enjoying our daily live sessions with you and we hope you’ve been enjoying them too. Go to http://www.hji.co.uk/latest/hj-goes-live for the weekly schedule and please continue to share your positive stories with us and let us know what sessions you’d like to watch in the near future.

Editor Laura Husband laura.h@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7363

Digital Editor Akesha Reid akesha@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7377

Content Writer Eleanor Vousden eleanor@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7362 Contributors Matthew Batham Charlotte Grant-West

Group Sales Manager Jackie Brown jackie@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7366

Deputy Sales Manager Matt Crane matt@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7367

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL

HAIRDRESSERS JOURNAL INTERNATIONAL INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

INSPIRING TODAY’S HAIRDRESSER

EXCLUSIVE: CORONAVIRUS IMPACT RESULTS

Stay safe and sending lots of love,

]

May 2020

May 2020|hji.co.uk

On the cover: Hair: Bruno Marc for JOICO Make-up: Katie Moore Styling: Bernard Connolly Photography: Jamie Blanshard

3 / hji.co.uk

Account Manager Jane Arrowsmith jane@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7373

Events Manager Lizzi Diggins lizzi@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7365

Events and Sales Administrator Melinda Park melinda@hji.co.uk • 020 3841 7374 Design and Production Senior Designer Jaqui Palmer, Designers Alex Charlton-Roberts and Daniel Parker Recruitment and Classified Gabriel Lartey gabriel@hji.co.uk • 0203 841 7376 Head of Global Marketing Chloe Skilton chloe@hji.co.uk • 020 7351 0536 Event Marketing Manager Katherine Cox katherine@hji.co.uk • 020 3728 9062

ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

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Practise how to lift your client’s spirits once lockdown ends with Advanced Pro Salon’s cute pastel shades that are guaranteed to add the perfect pop of colour

E

aster weekend sparked the beginning of summer vibes and a desire for light, bright, colourful hair to lift the mood.

When salons reopen pastels will be the perfect way to deliver a beautiful pop of colour that can be easily toned up or down to suit all moods and styles.

Why pastels will be popular post-lockdown Soft candy shades deliver deliciously teasing sugar rushes of colour reminiscent of a boutique patisserie packed full with macaroons, iced buns and unicorn frosted cupcakes, or family trips to the British seaside.

Pastels are extremely versatile, with so many application methods on offer from multi-coloured through to colour correction, this shade family is more useful than you might think. For those who aren’t quite brave enough to live with the bold statements that extreme shades deliver, pastels will gently ease

clients into the world of colour, with a shade that isn’t going to last too long and will fade well over time.

Choosing the right pastel shades for your clients Choosing a style to suit your client is key, but as it is not a permanent choice, your client can be encouraged to experiment outside of their comfort zone.

Provide a subtle hint of colour If your client prefers to be subtle, bring a hint of colour to an icy blonde with a short development as a global application, or from the midlengths through to the ends, adding another dimension when it catches the light. Floss Pink is ideal for this type of application, with a touch of warmth.

Equally you can introduce hints of pastel shades in alternate sections from root to ends, as a root melt into a light base tone, or a blending melt from mid-lengths to ends. These are a

Advanced Pro Salon ColourCode pastels include Floss Pink, Frosted Candy, Sugar Violet, Iced Mint and Nordic blue.

Every ColourCode Pastel is a direct colour so you can experiment with it easily during lockdown as no developer or mixing is required. Plus, each shade is enriched and infused with ProPlex Technology, argan oil and vitamins C, E & B5, which provide the hair with food and protection and leave every strand looking and feeling healthy.

good starting point if you don't want to jump into full colour coverage.

If you have a blonde which is a touch warmer than you’d like, a pastel shade can also be used as a colour corrector.

Following the principles of the colour wheel, you can apply ColourCode Sugar Violet to calm warmth, similar to a violet shampoo in essence.

Experiment with unicorn shades Pastels really deliver when the development time is extended to intensify the colour. Either as a single colour global application, or more commonly a combination across the pastel range to deliver a multi-tonal feast ranging from pink, blue and purple for standout unicorn hair.

Mono shades or multi-coloured combinations can also work well with a peekaboo style, sitting underneath a flawless blonde with teasing hints of colour and dynamic movement as you move and the hair separates.

Explore richer hues Pastels can work just as well on a mid-level base tone to bring a whole new depth to the candy shades, delivering richer custom shades, which can feed through into the autumn and winter months.

Pastels work exceptionally well across all styles, lengths and skin tones. The shades will add a pop of fun to short choppy styles, peekaboo mid-lengths and colour melts on long and loose flowing hair.

During lockdown, ColourCode pastels can be ordered directly from Advanced Pro Salon HQ. Call 01429 812 400 if you wish to experiment on a mannequin head at home.

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INDUSTRY NEWS HJ Exclusive:

HOW IS CORONAVIRUS AFFECTING YOUR BUSINESS? HJ has compiled an exclusive insight into how the coronavirus is affecting hairdressing salons throughout the UK. The survey, which was sent out to HJ’s readers via email last month, revealed the majority (81%) of respondents have not found new ways of generating revenue while salons are closed. Similarly, most of those surveyed (71%) are claiming financial support from the UK Government during this time.

Most of those questioned (53%) said they are using the lockdown to enjoy some time out. Two fifths (40%), on the other hand are making the most of the opportunity to work on their hairdressing businesses.

Other popular ways to spend time during lockdown include taking Have You Found Any New Ways To Generate Revenue During Coronavirus?

No

81.11%

Yes Yes

71.43% 18.89%

part in online education (40%), practising new techniques (16%), working on future projects (22%) and entering awards (3%).

Social media was selected as the preferred way to stay in touch with clients during lockdown (74%). However, many of the respondents are contacting individual clients by phone (58%).

Salon suppliers, manufacturers and professional hair brands are working hard to help salons during this time and most of those surveyed (52%) are keen for companies to continue offering as much online education as possible.

Help and advice from brands is a priority for 45% of those surveyed and 43% would like brands and manufacturers to offer financial support.

Have You Claimed Financial Support From The Government To Help You During The Coronavirus?

No

How Have You Been Spending Your Time During Lockdown?

1

Taking Time Out 53.46%

2

Business Work 40.32%

3

Online Education 39.63%

How Are You Staying In Touch With Clients At The Moment?

1

Social Media 73.73%

2

Phone 57.60%

3

Email 35.48%

How Would You Like Manufacturers And Brands To Help You? 1

Online Education 51.84%

2

Provide Help and Advice 45.39%

3

Financial Support 42.86%

Yes

28.57%

71.43%

£

The UK Government is keeping current lockdown measures until at least Thursday 7 May, which means UK hair salons and barbershops must remain closed. National Hair and Beauty Federation (NHBF) president Ian Egerton said: “Despite the economic pressures the extended lockdown shows that it isn’t safe for UK salons and barbershops to reopen in the immediate future. The world has changed and things won’t simply go back to how they were. Many people – employees and clients – will be

nervous about catching or spreading the virus even when the lockdown is lifted.”

The NHBF’s chief executive Hilary 5 / hji.co.uk

Hall added: “We’re urging the UK Government to work with us on a plan to lift restrictions. It must be clear which businesses can reopen, when they can reopen and what restrictions will apply.” She added: “Many salons and barbershops will be worried about staff and client safety so it’s vital that they get clear guidance on issues like how social distancing will work in practice for salons and barbershops.

Plus, what personal protective equipment must be worn by salon staff as well as the clients.”

SHUTTERSTOCK

Salons and barbershops remain closed

NEWS

Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates

Coronavirus Financial Support Update Here’s an update on the UK Government schemes that could benefit your hair salon or barbershop business during the current lockdown: • The UK Government grants available will cover 80% of the salary of retained workers, up to a total of £2,500 a month – that’s above the UK median earnings level.

• The scheme, which is open to any employer in the country, will cover the cost of wages backdated to 1 March and will be open before the end of April for at least three months.

• The Coronavirus Business Interruption Loan Scheme will now be interest-free for 12 months. The loans are available now.

• The current quarter of VAT payments will be deferred to the next quarter and no business will pay VAT from now to mid-June. This means businesses will have until the end of the financial year to repay those bills, which will be a £30 billion injection to businesses equivalent to 1.5% GDP.

HJ is encouraging salons to donate unused masks and gloves and any other personal protective equipment to their local NHS trust.

Being furloughed means employees are kept on the payroll even though they aren’t working in your hair salon or barbershop. The minimum time employees can be furloughed is three weeks.

• The Universal Credit standard allowance will be increased by £1,000 for the next 12 months.

• The Working Tax Credit basic element will also be increased by £1,000 for the next 12 months.

• Renters will receive nearly £1 billion of support by increasing the generosity of housing benefit and Universal Credit so the Local Housing Allowance will cover at least 30% of market rents in your area.

If you furlough your employees the Government will pay you 80% of their usual monthly wages before tax as of 19 March 2020, up to a maximum of £2,500 per person per month. The Government will also pay for employer’s National Insurance Contributions and the minimum employer pension contributions.

Through HMRC and the online portal is now open.

Who can be furloughed in my hair salon or barbershop business?

4National Hair Sunday

Royston Blythe is calling on all salons and hairdressers to sign-up to National Hair Sunday. The aim is to offer free hairdressing to NHS staff on the first Sunday that salons reopen.

5Donating profits to the NHS

3Gift vouchers for NHS staff

6Hair goody bags for NHS

Barrie Stephen Hair is giving out vouchers to NHS workers as a thank you for their tireless work during the Coronavirus pandemic.

How does furloughing help my hair salon or barbershop business?

How do I apply for the furlough scheme?

2Makeovers for NHS workers

Ken Picton Salon is giving away a full pampering makeover to one lucky recipient once salons reopen.

Many salon owners have considered or have already decided to take advantage of the Government’s furloughing scheme. The scheme can be used until the end of June 2020. Here are the answers to questions you as an employee or a salon owner might be too embarrassed to ask…

What does furloughing actually mean?

The many ways salons are helping the NHS 1HJ’s PPE campaign

FURLOUGHING FURLOUGHING FAQS FAQS

Syd Hayes is donating profits from his #SydCuff accessory to the NHS. Adee Phelan is encouraging salons and brands to donate products for his goody bags which are being given to NHS workers.

6 / hji.co.uk

All employees, whether they work full-time, part-time or if their hours vary, but they must have been on your payroll on or before 19 March 2020.

What can employees do while on furlough?

While employees are on furlough, they can’t earn money for your business and they can’t provide services to your business. If they do either of these, you will have to pay them for the time they are working for you.

Go to gov.uk for the most up-todate guidance on furloughing.

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NEWS

Go to hji.co.uk and sign up to our newsletter for weekly updates

The Whole Industry Gives Back During Coronavirus Professional hair brands have announced countless initiatives to support the hairdressing industry from online education to financial support and business advice.

Balmain’s Support Your Salon Programme Balmain Paris Hair Couture is offering salons a unique promotion code to share with customers. Clients can place an order online and the salon will receive the full salon margin of the order. To thank clients for supporting salons, they will receive a free gift.

Davines produces sanitising gel The Davines Group, which includes Davines, Skin Regimen and Comfort Zone, has produced over 100,000 of its Good Hope Gel hand sanitising gel, which will be donated to its community, charities and the NHS. Henkel’s Help Your Salon Campaign Henkel Beauty Care Professional, which owns Schwarzkopf Professional, JOICO, Indola and Alterna,

has launched a ‘Help your Salon’ campaign. This allows salons to offer personalised vouchers for clients to purchase now for use on in-salon services once the lockdown is lifted.

Kao Salon Recovery Initiative Kao Salon Division, which includes Goldwell, KMS and Oribe has launched three new programmes. Stronger Together offers financial support, Creativity Never Stops offers access to online education and Kao Salon Family provides access to points of contact at Kao Salon Division.

L’Oréal support guides L’Oréal Professional Products Division, which includes L’Oréal Professionnel, Kérastase, Redken and Matrix, has launched coronavirus support guides to help salon owners, employed hairdressers and freelance hairdressers with the financial and practical challenges they are facing during the coronavirus and current UK lockdown.

1

The FHA Provides Virtual Advice To help the freelance community, the Freelance Hairdressers Association is delivering committee meetings via virtual events, including its FHA Q&A Surgery, which will cover topics from business training to industry advice, and is welcoming topic suggestions from its members.

One of the first topic discussions will focus on colour correction, as well as how to prioritise clients once salons reopen. It will also cover best practices in client communications on home hair care during the lockdown.

“Here at the FHA we are an association of professional and fully qualified freelance hairdressers who are in this together,” says FHA director, Sheila Abrahams. “It is important to us that members do not feel alone, especially in times of uncertainty.”

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Organic Colour Systems Home Delivery Organic Colour Systems has introduced a home delivery service for salons to offer to clients. The products must be ordered by the salon on their client’s behalf and then the product is shipped directly to the client’s home.

Tigi’s We Are One Initiative Tigi has launched a new website – weareonetigi.com to share government advice, updates and offer a social media package for hairdressers to keep in touch with their clients.

Wella Professionals’ freelance support Wella Professionals has put together a practical advice guide specifically for freelancers, which includes financial advice, access to help and support and positive suggestions for how to make the most of lockdown to improve a freelancer’s business.

Stay Safe, Stay Strong, Stay CORONAVIRUS

PRACTICAL ADVICE FOR

Healthy

FREELANCE HAIRDRE

SSERS

IN THESE TESTING TIMES, WE NEED TO STAY CLOSE AND TO SUPPORT EACH THE POSITIVITY AND OTHER. WE ARE AMAZED SYMPATHY DISPLAYED

BY ALL

BY OUR INDUSTRY. WE WE HOPE YOU WILL WILL GO THROUGH THIS FIND THIS TOOL USEFUL TOGETHER. AND YOU CAN COUNT TO OUR BEST ABILITY. ON US TO CONTINUE TO SUPPORT YOU

If you’re a freelance hairdresser, like the whole global hairdressing challenges right now. community, you will be These are incredibly testing undoubtedly facing many times for any hairdresser of COVID-19. But here and sadly our sector will at Wella Professionals be hit as a result we have been by your support our community side for 140 years and in whatever ways we can. remain by your side to

Stay in touch with us to get regular bursts of inspiration and education.

You are not alone. Sign up to recieve our emails https://www.wella.com and follow Wella Professionals /professional/en-UK/subscribe on Social Media Instagram @Wellahairuk Faceboook Wella Professionals.

LET’S START WITH SOME

PRACTICAL ADVICE…

As with any financial information, you should seek advice from your accountant what you may be entitled if you have one, or a registered to. We are not financial experts and are not authorised financial expert to find information that we’ve out exactly to give financial advice, pulled together for you. this is simply an overview of Government Firstly, it’s important to understand what ‘self-employed’ or ‘freelance’ means in can benefit from. the eyes of HMRC as this will greatly determine what schemes you If you are self-employed and pay your own tax through Self Assessment, are a Director of your then you are what’s classed own Limited Company. as a sole trader. This is Directors of their own you will not qualify for NOT the same as if you Limited Companies are the scheme that has been in fact employed by their set up for self-employed.

Limited Company. Therefore, information on additional Please refer to Wella’s schemes. This document master document on COVID-19 is aimed at freelance/ which has all the self-employed hairdressers and those set up as sole traders.

FINANCES

There is now a CASH GRANT available to those hairdressers that are self-employed.

Here is the overview of the Government’s new Self-Employed Income Support Scheme, announced on 26/3/20.

• A direct cash grant of 80% of your profits, up to £2,500 per month, • At the time of producing will be available. this document the funds are said to be available • Grants will last for at as of June but will be least 3 months. backdated to March.

• Those eligible will receive a cash grant worth 80% of their average who receive the majority of their income from self-employment. monthly trading profit over the last three years. This covers 95% • The scheme will be open of people to those with a trading profit of less than £50,000 2016-17, 2017-18 and in 2018-19 or an average 2018-19. trading profit of less than • To qualify, more than £50,000 from half of your income in these periods must come • To apply for this grant, from self-employment. further information and details of the scheme you when the scheme will be shared shortly is active here:

by HMRC. You can sign up for email alerts to notify https://www.gov.uk/emailsignup?link=/government/topical-events • This scheme also applies /coronavirus-covid-19-uk-government-re to members of partnerships sponse

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DID Y If yo OU KNO u ha Prof W? v e cou ssional e Wella rse c s ed uc re to e xpir dit tha ation e yo t is d uc ue e 31 D xtend i an now t to ece mbe r 202 0!

BRUSH UP ON YOUR SKILLS FOR FREE! The Wella Professionals education team has been busy curating content that will ensure you leave lockdown more ready than ever to give your clients their best hair yet

T

he generosity and kind spirit of the hairdressing community has shone through over recent weeks. There’s been no shortage of talent willing to share their skills with bundles of free education on offer. Wella Professionals is no exception and its education team has worked tirelessly to put together a host of education resources to help those who want to spend their time wisely and brush up on their skills.

10 / hji.co.uk

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FREE SEMINARS, ADVICE AND STEP-BY-STEP TUTORIALS AT EDUCATION.WELLA.COM A MASTERCLASS IN GLAZING

AN ENTIRE LIBRARY OF EDUCATION The Wella Professionals eEducation platform uses the latest technology to educate professional hairdressers in an entirely innovative way. eEducation provides a new, flexible and fun approach to hairdressing education that can be tailored to suit different learning styles and skill levels. It can be accessed via a tablet, mobile or PC. eEducation is open to all hairdressers and offers an array of online seminars, tutorials and step-by-steps – all at the swipe of a finger.

Wella Professionals colour trends expert Zöe Irwin talks all things glazing and toning in her Glazing Masterclass using Illumina Color. The session will allow you to understand how to lift hair to the right underlying pigment for your glaze/tone and how to create two bespoke blonde results.

DAILY ACTIVITY ON WELLA PROFESSIONALS SOCIAL CHANNELS

The Wella Professionals UK Instagram page @wellahairuk has a host of activity created especially for you during lockdown. Check out the ‘digital events’ pin on @wellahairuk for weekly and daily schedules that feature Q&As, how-to sessions, masterclasses and expert advice all delivered by Wella Professionals’ leading educators and guest artists.

BECOME A BLONDE TONING EXPERT The bite-size sections within the eEducation platform mean you can stop and start learning as you please.

This makes the programme truly flexible during lockdown. You can also personalise your own learning by creating seminar playlists, access exclusive content and track your personal progress.

Go to www.education.wella.com If you’re desperate to perfect the way you prepare hair for toning, mix formulations and feather colour for added dimension, don’t miss Robert Eaton’s Blonde Toning Masterclass.

The Wella Professionals technical director will be delivering his session using Color Touch in a really easy to understand way.

STEP-BY-STEP TUTORIALS There’s a whole library of HairTribe Tutorials that you might not have seen, where Wella Professionals guest artists demo looks that are guaranteed to inspire you to experiment during the coronavirus lockdown.

GET TO GRIPS WITH SALON MARKETING Now is the time to master the art of marketing your salon business. Wella My Marketing is an invaluable online resource which has all the marketing assets you could possibly need to grow your business. It has vital imagery, press releases, marketing material, banners, posters, price lists and essential guides to PR and social media.

Wella salons can sign up online and take full advantage of everything it has to offer to ensure you are ready for the bounce back once salon doors are open again to your clients.

Go to wellamymarketing.co.uk

11 / hji.co.uk

The Wella Professionals Global Facebook page is hosting a range of Facebook Live seminars with some leading global artists. This is an invaluable opportunity to get an exclusive insight into some of the finest hairdressers on the planet.

Simply follow the Wella Professionals Facebook page and look out for the exciting content they’ve got planned.

Go to Instagram @wellahairuk and facebook.com/WellaUK/

Discover education at education.wella.com

Find us on

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at Paul Mitchell UK

For 40 years Paul MitchellÂŽ has supported professionals like you.

We will continue to support our salons, our stylists and our clients. Then, now and always.

Our company was founded on the mission of creating something beautiful for all, every day.

40 years later our mission has not changed.

Peace, Love and Happiness.

Available exclusively from Salon Success - The Distributor of Choice To find out more visit salon-success.co.uk or call 0845 659 0011

Head over to hji.co.uk for up-to-the-minute industry news

#HJColourReel Shout Out

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@escape_hair

@greerios.muah

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@pams.hair

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@kyleemariehair

@salonblanc19

CORONAVIRUS RESOURCES During this difficult period we understand that you need expert advice on managing your business and would like the most up-to-date information on how the coronavirus is affecting the hairdressing industry. We are keeping our homepage updated with news and guides concerning the outbreak – visit hji.co.uk/coronavirus for the latest information, advice and resources.

14 / hji.co.uk

@hairdressersjournal

Hairdressers Journal

@hjinteractive

M E ET THE KI

This updo by 2019’s Midlands Hairdresser of the Year James Earnshaw at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, was our most popular pin last month.

Go to pinterest.co.uk/ hjinteractive for more inspiration.

NG

PIN !

@hji

A VIRTUAL HIT! HJ and our sister brand Professional Beauty launched Virtual Week last month which was filled with free educational and inspirational live videos and webinars.

Virtual Week

15 / hji.co.uk

If you missed it, you can view all of the videos on HJ’s YouTube channel.

You can also join us every week for HJ Goes Live as we continue live interviews, tutorials and business advice.

The weekly schedule is available at hji.co.uk/latest/hj-goes-live-schedule/

A NEW ERA IN HAIR STYLING The BaByliss 9000 is the first high performance cordless straightener combining ground-breaking Micro Heating Matrix™ technology and exceptional cordless performance to deliver the ultimate straightening experience whether you’re in the salon, backstage or on set.

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BUSINESS

The Debate

Should clients dye their hair at home?

With the coronavirus forcing salons to shut two industry experts discuss whether clients should be advised to dye their hair while they are stuck at home

“We all know that for some of our clients not knowing when they can get back into the salon might be causing some concern. There has been a lot of talk in the media about home hair colouring recently.

This is why, as a professional and highly trained colourist, I am extremely worried about clients taking this time to try out home colour.

It is possible for clients to do many things to their hair at home. With such a huge range of products now accessible online the options are out there for everyone. However, we have seen home colouring can cause massive amounts of damage which can take years to grow out.

The chemicals used in hair colour can cause severe reactions on the scalp and to the hair texture itself. In the worst cases these can cause longlasting scars and irritation to the skin.

Not to mention unexpected, uneven and disappointing results. We all know box colours primarily just offer a cover-all option. This means selecting the right tone to use and getting exactly the result the client is looking for is very unlikely.

Our clients at Russell Eaton understand that our offering is beyond anything that can be achieved with a home colour. However, we are very aware that it might seem a tempting short-term solution. That’s why we’re advising clients if they are considering using any of these products to get in touch and talk it through with us first.

As their colourist we know their hair and will be able to give honest advice and guidance on the effects of a home colour. More importantly, we will be able to give some great tips on disguising and working with regrowth. This will hopefully mean they step away from the box colour and wait until we can welcome them back into the salon without any sense of judgement or hair shame.”

“I am against home colour and the current situation has not changed my opinion. What we do as artists is not as simple as some may think. It’s not just putting colour onto the head. There is so much more that needs to be considered to create a beautiful and bespoke colour.

We take into account what the client is looking for from their colour and their expectations. We select the right shades, take into consideration the hair analysis (natural level and undertone), their commitment to the service; the right technique and the colour that will suit them best. Clients cannot achieve these elements by following the instructions on a box colour. Even the most detailed how-to videos will not give a client the skillset of a hairdresser.

Whether it’s in lockdown or on impulse, customers should always leave colour to the professionals. Hair is the one accessory we don’t have the luxury of taking off and putting back on. It’s always with us and we should take care of it in the same way we do with our skin and our body. The colourist is the only person who knows what’s in the tint bowl and has the correct scientific and mathematical knowledge to produce the right result.

We’re in a weird world where everyone is talking about their hair colour and their roots. My main concern is for a client’s own wellbeing. I understand a client might look at themselves and not feel great about what they see but imagine how they will feel when what they try to do goes wrong. There is also the issue of skin testing. We are on lockdown with no idea when life will return to normal.

It could be weeks or months before your client can come into the salon to get the problem fixed. Tell clients to leave it to the experts and stay safe as this should be our main priority right now.”

Robert Eaton, creative director, Russell Eaton salons

Warren Boodaghian, head of technical, HOB Academy 18 / hji.co.uk

SHUTTERSTOCK

“Always leave it to the professionals even during the Covid-19 lockdown”

“We are advising clients to talk it through with us”

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Protect Your Business During Lockdown Phil Smith England’s founder and salon owner, Phil Smith reveals the action points you should be making now to keep your salon safe during these uncertain times

S

alon businesses will recover once the lockdown is over because you can always count on community spirit. While our salons are closed, let’s use the time to really look behind the scenes of our businesses. Often when you are running a busy column and operating the salon on a day to day basis you never get the opportunity to pause and take an in-depth analysis of the business. Now is the time to consider what works well, what needs changing, what could be done more effectively and what’s a waste of your resources. You should use this time to strengthen all aspects of your business so you can jump back into it as soon as we’re given the green light.

Below are some action points that you can be working on in the meantime: 1.Speak to your landlord

If your salon is a rented property you should contact your landlord today and arrange to pay your rent in monthly instalments for at least the first six months after reopening. This will take pressure off your cashflow.

It’s also worth remembering that your landlord needs you as much as you need their space.

2. Speak to your manufacturer

If you need support it’s a good idea to

speak to your manufacturers. There is a good chance you will have worked with them for a while and have a strong relationship. The professional brand manufacturers are the backbone of our industry and have helped to shape it over many decades.

The brands themselves will be hit hard during this pandemic. However, most of the brands sit within large multinational companies so they will have much larger resources to rely on than an individual salon. Don’t be afraid to ask for some help or advice.

3. Speak to your team

Your salon team is easily the most important part of your business.

At the moment, the mental health and wellbeing of your team is key.

Everyone is feeling anxious, not only about their careers, but also about the health of loved ones. It is almost impossible to digest what has happened to the world we know, so make sure you give your team the space, time and resources necessary to reflect on this. Your team are an extension of your family. You would normally spend 70% of your time with them so make sure this bond stays strong. Organise one-to-one FaceTime calls, Zoom team meetings or a House-party night-in, for when the time is right. This will raise team 21 / hji.co.uk

morale so everyone returns in the right frame of mind and ready to hit the ground running.

4. Research as much information as possible

As a business owner, it is your job to stay on top of the situation. I recently read that trichologist, Shelley Line, recommends that all clients are skin tested once salons reopen. If they have had the virus, even without knowing, and chances are they will have, the immune response will be heightened making an allergic reaction a possible high risk. Once the government announces the date we can reopen, we will have time to prepare so use that time to send out skin tests to every client you have.

5. Don’t forget business as usual

For my thirty years plus of running salons my main advice is business as usual or BAU. If we focus all of our energy to get the business as usual philosophy back to where it was then I am confident we will all survive this. Don’t create promotions or run colour sales. Your clients will want everything to return to normal as will you as a salon owner and your teams.

Let’s restore the faith and provide our community with what they want – life as it was before with amazing hair!

SHUTTERSTOCK

BUSINESS

Dedicated to helping

you learn

Stay inspired – and stay safe inside with the Ask Academy online Watch videos to keep your skills sharp and take tests to really take your education to the next level.

Joining our education platform is a simple two step process, visit ask.elearning.com

#staysafe #stayinspired Feeling stuck? Don’t forget, you can also reach the Schwarzkopf Professional team on +44 (0)1442 278000 or by emailing schwarzkopf.customerservices@henkel.com with any questions or for advice and support. www.schwarzkopfpro.com

BUSINESS

Baby

BOOM

M

aternity Leave is one of the biggest dilemmas facing salons. It presents challenges that can leave you as an employer in a state of distress. You might be wondering how the salon will cope or even survive without one, or more, of your key players for up to twelve months. Don’t be embarrassed about this as it is a legitimate concern for many small business owners.

Be prepared for the fact that things don’t always go to plan. As soon as you know about your employee’s pregnancy you should prepare for their sudden disappearance. Many women are unable to continue working until their baby is born and many babies are born months before they are due. This means you can’t assume your employee will be around until their due date.

Salon owners need to be aware of the full range of employment rights that pregnant women, new mothers and new fathers have. There can be serious legal consequences if you get it wrong. If you lack knowledge about employment rights you should seek tailored professional HR advice.

Sourcing and recruiting temporary cover does involve additional cost and effort. Plus, no-one knows if the employee will return after maternity leave. The roles in your salon are diverse with key players having many responsibilities, special knowledge, established client relationships and each person is a good revenue generator. All of this adds to the difficulty of finding suitable

SHUTTERSTOCK

If you’re running a small salon every stylist counts. Business consultant Liz McKeon reveals how to cope when one or multiple members of the team go on maternity leave

temporary replacements.

The key to managing maternity leave is effective planning and good communication throughout. Keep talking to your employee and make sure that all important information about their role is written down to ensure a smooth handover of their column. The same rules and good practice apply when recruiting temporary replacements, which means you need to have a clear job description in place.

Maternity cover is inevitable so don’t wait until it happens to think about how to manage this situation.

While you may be very happy for the person, you have a responsibility to your clients and other team members to ensure this has as little impact on them as possible.

It is essential that you protect your salon’s turnover so always remember that while a team member owns and runs their columns, you own and run the business. The business will be shaky if it is over-reliant on any one individual. Everyone must work within the remit of your ‘customer service journey’ to ensure that clients are always coming to your salon for the experience and that experience remains consistent. As a result, your clients will be quite happy to move to a new stylist or colourist as they are the salon’s customer as opposed to a single stylist’s customer.

As long as you plan ahead, and manage the situation for your member of staff, the team and your clients, maternity leave shouldn’t be a challenge for your salon.

24 / hji.co.uk

Five ways to plan for maternity cover

1

2

anage the conversation M on the floor – clients don’t need to know all of the pregnancy details.

You should decide a plan for each client to ensure a smooth transition to another team member.

See this as an opportunity for other team members to shine.

The person going on maternity leave must willingly relinquish clients and be satisfied to rebuild their client base on their return.

Turn this situation to your advantage. Being well organised and in control of an upcoming maternity cover sends out a very positive message to clients that they are always your top priority and no matter what happens within your team, it will be business as usual for them.

3 4 5

Liz McKeon is

a business coach who specialises in the hair industry. For details about business seminars and industry workshops go to lizmckeon.com.

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BUSINESS

What to do now and post-lockdown

t is essential for all hairdressers and barbers, regardless of whether you are a salon owner, employee, self-employed or a freelance hairdresser to be ready for whatever the current situation might throw at you.

L’Oréal Professionnel, which is part of the L’Oréal Professional Products Division has created coronavirus support guides filled with financial and practical advice for salon owners and freelance hairdressers.

L’Oréal Professionnel’s general manager Monica Teodoro shares her tips exclusively with HJ on what to do during the extended lockdown, which will continue until at least Thursday 7 May. She also offers her advice for what steps to take once UK salons are back up and running again.

What to do during the extended lockdown?

1. Stay connected with the industry Whether you are a salon owner or stylist, reinforcing connectedness is key. Now is the time to support your team and the professional hairdressing industry. It’s all about engagement and creating a sense of community. It’s a great way of coming together to keep updated and share how you are feeling as it will help everyone else to feel supported around you too.

2. Stay connected with your clients Now is the time to keep a connection with your clients. The trick is to find a way to connect that is true to yourself and your brand. This could be a virtual coffee catch-up, a message, a call or a moment to check-in. Your clients want you to really listen and support them with some expert advice whilst they wait to come back and see you in the salon.

3.Stay connected with yourself Don’t forget to take some time for you during this period that is challenging

How to make the most of it!

L’Oréal Professionnel editorial ambassador and salon owner Adam Reed reveals how he’s spending his time wisely.

1

Checking in with my team My team are my biggest asset and my absolute priority, now as much as ever. I’m encouraging the team to stay in touch with each other, speak with their family and friends and maintain all of their relationships. It’s great to check in and make sure your community are staying well and healthy. Spreading positivity is good for us all right now.

2

Try out morning meditation Everyone who knows me will know I invest heavily in my

for all of us. Find your inner calm, be it discovering a new hobby or keeping your mind active. Personal health and wellbeing is very important and will be essential for when salons open again.

What to do when lockdown ends?

1. Make a plan for protective measures in your salon We anticipate that when salons reopen both your clients and teams will be more heightened to hygiene and health and safety. It might be worth considering what enhanced measures you can put in place that will help everyone feel assured and more comfortable.

2. Manage client expectations There will undoubtedly be a lot of demand from clients wanting appointments when salons reopen.

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wellbeing and mental health. It’s not normal for me to be in the same place for so long and it has been difficult to adjust. One thing that has really helped me and something that I recommend is meditation in the morning. It really gives me a moment to clear my mind, reset and start the day in the right mindset. This means I can be there for my family and appreciate the little things that we are able to focus on during this time.

3

Get creative We may not have chosen this situation, but I am really trying to make the most of it.

I’m using this time to keep my creativity flowing. I’m gardening, reading more and looking at art online. It’s helping me find focus and spark some fresh ideas for when we are able to reopen the salon.

Make a robust plan so you can manage your clients’ expectations. Creating a priority waiting list or organising extended hours could be two ways to ensure a smooth reopening. Of course, these are only ideas and you should always follow the latest Government guidelines and protocol for opening safely once lockdown ends.

3. Focus on the consultation Your clients will have experienced different challenges during this period, which means a consultation has never been more important. Factor in extra time to speak to each client about their experience. Use this extra time to discuss how they’ve been feeling and subsequently how they have been feeling about their hair and wellbeing.

Listening to your clients is one of the best gifts you can give them.

SHUTTERSTOCK

I

L’Oréal Professionnel’s general manager Monica Teodoro shares her expert advice exclusively with HJ on what you should be doing during the extended lockdown period and once salons reopen…

INSIDER

Insider

How were the majority of appointments booked in January and February 2020?

Phone............... 67%

HJ reveals the results of its first exclusive benchmarking survey for the UK hairdressing industry

Social Media................... 8% Face to face................... 6% Salon Software app........ 4% Website........................... 3% Email............................... 1% Google My Business... 0.2% Other.......................... 10.8%

To mark the start of HJ’s monthly benchmarking survey we asked readers to compare salon business in January and February 2020 (before lockdown began) with January and February last year. Our ultimate aim is to paint a bigger picture of the industry that we will be able to share with you each month.

How did the number of unfilled salon appointments in January and February 2020 compare with January and February 2019?

19%

JANUARY & FEBRUARY 2020 IN NUMBERS

More

How did your salon appointment business in January and February 2020 compare with January and February 2019?

43%

40% Same

17%

13%

Cut................................................42% Blow-dries..................................4.15% Extensions...................................2.3% Treatment.......................................2% Relaxing....................................0.69% Perming.....................................0.46% Styling/updos.............................0.46%

How did your retail business in January and February 2020 compare with January and February 2019?

More

Same

Less

34%

53%

Less

Same

HJ TRENDS:

Colour......................... 48%

49%

32%

Worse

What was the most popular salon service in January and February 2020?

21%

Same

How did the number of no-show appointments in January and February 2020 compare with January and February 2019?

More

More

49%

30% Worse

Most popular cutting service in January/February 2020:

1st

2nd

3rd

Trim/one length

Bob

Lob

Most popular colour service in January/February 2020:

1st

2nd

3rd

Highlights/ babylights

Balayage

Block Colour

METHODOLOGY: Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of HJ readers. The people who participated represent a cross-section of the industry and were polled by email, regarding business for January and February 2020 compared to January and February 2019. The figures given represent the average score for each answer.

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COLOURIST INTERVIEW

head at the time and tweaking it along the way until it evolves.

ns on

R U O COL with…

satio Conver

What colour creation makes you most proud?

I love looking back at my test shoots and collections and seeing how far I’ve come.

One of my favourite colour collections was Cartoon Vision (pictured top right). None of the girls in the collection had coloured their hair before so it was all about big colour changes and creating beautiful colour that they would own with confidence.

Grace Dalgleish

What’s your favourite colouring technique at the moment?

Brooks & Brooks’ education director shares what she loves most about being a colourist and how to avoid a column filled with colour corrections once salons reopen What do you love most about being a colourist?

Colour is a way to express ourselves and I love that you can never stop creating with it. There’s always a new palette to discover or a new shade to create. There are no limitations, which means things are always changing and we can never stop learning. Education is my passion and I’m so grateful to travel the world with my job. Sharing my ideas and thought processes and meeting other like-minded hairdressers really inspires me. As part of my new role as education director I ensure the team are progressing, motivated and feeling inspired. This could be anything from taking the team for coffee to holding colour jams in the salon or talking trends. It’s important that every member of the team has a project so we can keep growing together.

I love all parts of my job but helping others on their hair journey is super rewarding.

Where do you go for your colour inspiration?

My inspiration can literally come from anywhere – the streets, nature, skies, photography or old-school films. My spark of inspiration usually comes from using my downtime in the salon wisely. Any spare time I have I use to play with a weft or paints using an Easydry towel as my canvas.

I like to layer different tones together to see what complements and what contrasts. Sometimes it’s the tones that shouldn’t work together that end up being the most beautiful. I like being able to work on a project freely as it takes the pressure off having to come up with a concept on the spot. That way I can really enjoy my creative time and I can keep pushing forward with whatever pops into my

Every paint is different because every person and hair type is different. I’ve really enjoyed layering tones on my clients.

We call this glazing and it gives an extra sheen over the hair colour, like a lip gloss. It’s also a great way to test out daring tones before your client wants to commit fully to a new shade. Usually my approach to colour is very visual and free. I like to paint with a feeling and create colour that’s tailormade for the individual.

What colour trends are you pleased to see out of fashion?

Rihanna red as it gives me high school nightmares of box dyes.

Are there any colour trends or techniques that you would like to bring back?

A two-toned dye job and chunky highlights. I love that 1990s colour blocking is back. I’m really enjoying playing around with more foiling techniques to create panelled pops of colour. I love Dua Lipa’s vibe – half-and-half contrasting colours with super-clever placement. It feels so fresh and on the right person it’s super cool!

What are the biggest challenges facing professional colourists right now?

Our current situation with Covid-19 means it’s our job as colourists to really make sure our clients know we are still here for them. Many of my clients have messaged me about box dying, touching up their own roots and even bleaching.

It’s a really scary thought and the prospect of having lots of colour corrections in our columns when we return is not good either. Some ideas that we have been talking about at Brooks & Brooks is to offer our clients Zoom video consultations or advice. We have been working on some ‘how to’ tutorials to hide roots with head scarves and root sprays – anything to stop them reaching for a box dye.

BO A RD S G RA C E’ S M O O D

28 / hji.co.uk

What advice would you give to a trainee colourist?

It takes time and dedication so set personal goals. On your days off find models on the street or bring friends into the salon and practise, practise, practise! Take mannequin heads home and perfect all your fundamentals in your down time.

Ask senior colourists in the team lots of questions. I learn best in a handson environment so absorb as much as you can and try it yourself.

Sci Hapssor

SCISSOR TRENDS

DRAMATIC LENGTH AND TEXTURE

CK

“Cutting long thick hair is not more difficult than any other hair style. The key is in the consultation and clean execution. Like any other service, you have to make sure you speak the same language as your client. Quite often people with long hair are very attached to the length of their hair and when they ask for 1cm off, they do mean 1cm even if the length is past the shoulder and it won’t make much difference to the finished style.

Cutting Asian hair is a challenge compared with Caucasian hair because it is especially straight and thick. It usually won’t lay flat against the head and a normal cut with scissors doesn’t always work for this reason. It’s a good idea to use a technique like point cutting to layer the hair as this gives a softer look while adding body and texture.

If you do want a dramatic style, I suggest more chunky layers. Whatever you want to achieve the choice of tools is very important. I work with 5.5” scissors and the most important thing to remember is that long hair is usually old hair – three years old if past the shoulder so you need to keep the condition at its best.”

ANN E VE

1

py

Disc tec over the hniqu whic h se fi es ve to u cuttin on- se t g tren o re d lo cre oks ate

Anne Veck, Anne Veck Salons, Oxford and Bicester

S THOMAS HILL

2

MASCULINE DETAILING “Love it or hate it, it’s impossible to ignore this season’s trend for masculine detailing. Several Fashion Week SS20 shows paraded models sporting traditionally feminine styles peppered with unexpected masculine details. It’s a trend that creates a real style dichotomy within one look, which I love. It’s also an exciting way to create androgynous styling. This look uses classic men’s hairdressing techniques to create a beautifully androgynous feminine shape. I used a classic scissor-over-comb technique. It requires discipline, working from short to long, while building up weight throughout the temples and crown visually. The top is slightly disconnected to create the free-flowing texture, while the fringe has been cut freehand, which again is disconnected from the internal texture. To finish, hair was dried naturally. I used a cocktail of soft crème and clay to encourage irregular movement for an image that portrays power and strength. Scissors were used in a multitude of ways to create internal texture.

I used twist cutting to reduce bulk at the roots, channel cutting to create a fusion of textures, and I distorted the ends by breaking into the mid lengths and ends randomly. This stops uniformity within a style allowing more freedom within the hair.”

Thomas Hills, TH1, Oxted, Surrey

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KARINE JACK

3

SON

MULLET WITH A TWIST

“Unlike a lot of stylists I like to stick to one pair of scissors to create all different types of looks. I use different techniques depending on the final effect I want to achieve and I stick with my trusty sharp 5” scissors.

This image is from my 2019 Twisted Linear collection where I created my own take on two iconic looks – the mullet and the bob. To create the mullet part of the style I blunt cut the bottom section, shatter the middle section of the hair halfway up, weaving through and taking precise sections to work on. For the bob, again using the same scissors, I heavily blocked cut and shattered the ends by using the point cutting technique. This is because I wanted to maintain a strong line whilst softening the edge slightly. Finally, I cut in a fringe by point cutting the hair to give further definition and finish off the look.

This summer I think we are going to see different textures of hair, for example Afro looks with a lot of movement.”

Karine Jackson, Karine Jackson, London

TNEY

MARK MOUN

4

CUSTOMISED TEXTURE “I believe a great haircut is less about trends and more about personalised suitability and individual style. For this look I used my 6” scissors to create the base haircut on wet hair.

Once the hair was dry, I worked on customising the haircut. Still using the same scissors I sliced through the hair to create texture, movement and softness. The finish is a very visual process for me based on personalisation. In many ways, the biggest trend this season is working with texture and enhancing the hair’s natural movement.”

Mark Mountney, Zoology, London

PHILIPP HAUG

SHORT UNDERCUT STYLING We are seeing a lot of short hair for SS20 and keeping the perimeter edges slightly longer adds softness, femininity and a more sophisticated feeling. This haircut is sub-divided into an undercut and a longer section on top, with a lot of detail in the undercut. I took a big section on top which we left longer, then worked with scissor-over-comb through the sides from the bottom to the top. This is a reverse scissor-over-comb technique. The benefit of this is that we can leave the perimeter and sideburns as long as we want. For this cut I used 6.5” scissors, which are slightly bigger than I usually use. With smaller scissors you can get more precise with your graduation, but when working with scissor-over-comb a bigger pair of scissors and a bigger comb will give you more control.”

Philipp Haug, artistic director, TONI&GUY

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5

HJ’S 2020 SCISSOR GUIDE:

MEET YOUR NEW BFF £50

AND UNDER

AMA ICON

AMA APEX

The AMA Icon offers Japanese AUS8 steel and mirror-polished convex blades. The chrome offset handles are enhanced by the colour co-ordinated soft grips, glitter poly dial screw and dual-position finger rests.

Available in 5.75”.

Price: £20+VAT gebetterton.com

With its sleek and classic offset design, convex edge blades and removable finger rest, the 6” AMA Apex is a perfect entry level scissor in a larger size.

Price: £37.50+VAT gebetterton.com

AMA G-ONE THINNER

KYOTO SPRINT

HAITO ROZU

KYOTO ROSE

The AMA G-One Thinner has 32 teeth and uses the same great convex hollow ground blade and double ground edge as the AMA G-ONE Scissor. Available in 6”.

Price: £52.50+VAT gebetterton.com

Enjoy all styles of cutting with crisp precision due to the hollow ground convex blades, together with hardworking durability, thanks to the tempered high-carbon steel. Available in 5”, 5.5”, 6”, 6.5”, 7”; and 5.5” 40-tooth thinning; plus left-handed 5”, 5.5”, 6”, 6.5”; and 5.5” 40-tooth thinning.

Price: £57.50+VAT dowa-international.com

Handmade from stainless steel with a rose gold titanium coating, these offset scissors also have a feather design handle. The curved thumb offers optimum comfort, support and a relaxed working position and the convex cutting edge gives smooth cutting and slicing. Available in 5.5”.

Price: £58 hairtools.co.uk

Kyoto Rose has the toughness of forged highcarbon steel in a rose gold titanium casing. The wide dovetail finger rest hugs your little finger and lifts the tips for extra support for longer sizes.

Available in 5.5”, 6”, 6.5”, 7”, 6” 40-tooth thinning and right or left-handed.

Price: £80+VAT dowa-international.com

AUSTRALIAN

FAME TEAM

HAITO KOBURA OFFSET Handmade from Japanese stainless steel and engraved with a striking snake design, the semi-offset handle with a curved thumb, offers the optimum in comfort and support. The screw system with built-in ball-bearing and convex cutting edge are ideal for cutting and slicing.

Available in 6”.

Price: £45 hairtools.co.uk

£51-£100

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T H E U LT I M AT E S C I S S O R G U I D E If your scissors are constantly letting you down, have you considered investing in a new pair to ensure your cutting skills are on-point in 2020 and beyond? Read on to find a new best friend that will suit your price-point…

£101-£200

AMA GTX 6

SHUTTERSTOCK

The AMA GTX 6 offers stylists the perfect shears to master their trade.

Crafted from Japanese stainless steel and with standard polished blades, larger finger holes and a slightly heavier weight, it is perfect for barbering and general styling.

Available in 5”, 5.5”, 6” and 6.5”.

Price: £50+VAT gebetterton.com

AMA TAO The powerful AMA Tao is forged from Japanese 440c cobalt steel. With a convex edge and sword shape blade, it is perfect for all styles of cutting, including slide cutting on wet or dry hair. It has a flat adjustable screw and static finger rest.

Price: £90+VAT gebetterton.com

KYOTO SWIFT THINNING

KYOTO SWIFT

OSAKA SUPER ERGO

The double-toothed blades allow uncut hair to flow through the channels between the teeth without being scraped by an open blade edge. The result is a super-smooth cut, leaving a natural finish without damaging the hair.

Available in 6” 29-tooth.

Price: £105+VAT dowa-international.com

Incredible cutting power is packed into the sword blade. The weighted blades and razor-sharp edges make light work of all cutting methods.

The cutting motion feels smooth on wet or dry hair and the high carbon stainless steel gives lasting sharpness. Available in 5.5”, 6” and 6.8”.

Price: £105+VAT dowa-international.com

The Osaka Super Ergo was one of the first scissors to place ergonomics at the heart of its design.

The grip shape, power amplifying blade and perfect weight balance make it ideal for every stylist’s scissors pouch.

Available in 5”, 5.5”, 6”, 6.5”, 7” and left-handed 5”, 5.5” and 6”.

Price: £110+VAT dowa-international.com

OSAKA COBALT MASTER

PASSION ZETA

JOEWELL NE OFFSET

Decades of dedication and features from past and present models are crammed into Zeta: From the ergonomic crane handles to the smooth ball bearing screw system and the precision cutting powerful sword blades.

Available in 5.5”, 6”, 6.5”, 7”, right or left-handed.

Price: £155+VAT dowa-international.com

The popular Joewell NE is now available in an offset style. These are the entry level shears in the Joewell range and are made from Japanese steel with a standard Joewell blade. These are excellent scissors that will enable you to master any technique.

Price: £166+VAT gebetterton.com

This introduction to cobalt uses the familiar handle shape of the Kyoto Sprint and Rose scissor, which opens doors to the next level of precision cutting.

A fantastic option to step up your cutting skills.

Available in 6”, 6.5”, 7” and right or left-handed.

Price: £137.50+VAT dowa-international.com

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HJ’S 2020 SCISSOR GUIDE: MESSINGER BRANDON

£201-£300

HEADMASTE

RS

PASSION COBALT RAPTOR

ROBERT MAS

CIAVE

These weighted blades pack a lot of punch.

Forged from VG10 cobalt, Raptor creates the kind of cutting power that is usually lacking in cobalt blades. The scissors also make light work of cutting very thick hair. Available in 5.5”, 6”, 6.5” and 7”.

Price: £220+VAT dowa-international.com

JOEWELL TJ Exclusive to the UK, TJ offers a new offset handle designed to give a more stable cutting experience.

A small ‘fin’ decreases finger movement along the top handle and allows the stylist to control the scissors more easily.

Available in 5.25” and 5.75”.

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JOEWELL FX PRO THINNING The 3-dimensional style handle offers a more comfortable cutting position. The 40-tooth flat blade provides a 35% cut ratio and is complemented by a topside sword blade. Plus, the dry bearing screw system gives a light and smooth cutting action.

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The new X-tension Scissor delivers perfect blending on both extensions and systems with no visible marks. It replaces the need to use traditional razors. Ideal for use with extensions, wefts, clip-ins and hair systems, it offers the softest blend possible.

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JOEWELL FX PRO BLACK SKULL A 3-dimensional handle, and twisted thumb ring gives a more comfortable cutting position. A topside sword blade and back side flat blade enables a stable scissor operation and delivers more of your cutting power to the points of the blades.

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HAITO DAMASCUS Made from Swedish Damascus steel and layered to create an elegant marbled design, this stylish model offers high-performance. To add to the appeal, no two pairs look the same, offering something unique to every owner. Available in 5.5” and 6”.

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INTERIORS

Salon Interior SOS

From tight spaces to even tighter budgets, we’ve asked design experts to troubleshoot the common problems you might encounter when renovating or designing your salon

FIGOLI

LEO BANCROFT

“I want to redesign my salon, but not at the expense of the planet. What options are out there that are more environment-friendly?”

“My salon is long and thin – how can I make the space work as a hairdressing salon?”

“A small and narrow salon can be tricky to work with, but it’s by no means impossible to create a great salon from an unusual space. With a long space it can become overcrowded and noisy, so you need the right design expertise to make sure the space flows well.

A salon width should be a minimum of 4m – any smaller and it becomes impractical. Offset the styling station mirrors so that you avoid creating a tunnel-like effect. Use wide mirrors, rather than thin ones to create the illusion of more space.

The correct colour choice will also bring your salon to life. Obvious choices are paler colours to make the space seem bigger, but why not make the back wall of the salon a feature wall? You could use texture, a patterned wallpaper or even create a picture gallery to add interest.

It is important to work with a dedicated furniture team to ensure your salon fits your space perfectly. At Salon Supplies for example, we offer a complete salon design and planning service.”

Lee Hamilton, furniture manager, Salon Supplies.

“From a furniture and equipment perspective, longevity is key to sustainability. Buying cheaper furniture is a false economy as typically salons experience breakage and equipment failure more frequently. Inevitably, this means that salons have to repair or replace equipment more often than necessary, which not only increases long-term equipment costs, but disposing of equipment or replacing parts has a negative environmental impact too. Many eco salons are choosing Takara Belmont for this reason. These salons appreciate that we apply the most environmentally efficient manufacturing processes as we possibly can.

Takara Belmont furniture is known for its reliability and durability and each piece is designed to perform in a rigorous salon setting and cope with the stresses placed upon it. Apart from the environmental benefits of investing in high-quality equipment it’s also good for business. Inferior furniture is responsible for downtime and a loss of service station capacity when it’s broken or being repaired or replaced, so it has a commercial impact as well as an environmental one.”

Katie Wrighton, national sales manager, Takara Belmont (UK) Ltd

N

GIFT HAIR SALO

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INTERIORS “I’ve got limited finances but want to make an impact.

How can I make the most out of my budget?”

ROBERT KIRBY

“I want furniture that is going to last and still look great in ten years’ time. Do you have any tips for picking salon furniture that will stand the test of time?”

“If a chair is inexpensive it will have a life span of 12-24 months and it will be difficult to get replacement parts. If you buy from a reputable dealer and invest in high-quality furniture you can feel reassured that you are buying a piece that will last. Also, spare parts and replacement upholstery will be available for years to come. High quality furniture can also be serviced, which will prolong its lifespan.

When choosing the colour of your furniture remember that spillages on darker shades will be less noticeable.

Most upholstery on salon and barber

furniture is made from vinyl because it is much stronger than leather.

Plus, leather softens over time so getting a colour match if it needs to be upholstered in future will be difficult.

Some classic pieces that are still popular include the Adria and Cadilla Styling Chairs along with the RS Adria Wash Unit. Moda also retails Italian brand Ceriotti, which produces high quality furniture made in Italy and the brand also has specialist embroidery which can include your salon’s logo.”

Paul Barker, director, Moda Salon Interiors 38 / hji.co.uk

EDEN LOUNGE

“To maximise a budget it’s important to list all the services and features you would like to fit into your salon. Decide how many styling positions you need to make the business profitable and from here you can work out how many backwash units to have. As a rule of thumb you need one backwash per three styling stations. When designing a salon, each styling position is designed with a space of 1.2m x 1.8m (with the mirror sitting in the middle of the 1.2m length). To keep costs down I’d recommend the Maletti 330 E EDEN LOUNG Fixed Backwash. It is smaller than most backwash units but offers a very comfortable experience.

Compact mirrors without a frame but with a shelf or console table are a good furniture option as they can be priced more competitively. Maletti makes the Breda Styling Unit, which is a mirror that includes a console table. It provides a good working area for the stylist and leaves space for a client’s coffee cup.

Nail units help to maximise profit and can create a standout feature in the salon. For example, Maletti’s Magic and Baby Stool are compact nail stations that you can bring directly to the customer at a styling station.”

Terry Bunn, operations director at Laceys and Maletti’s salon designer

‘I want to modernise my salon to attract new clients – what’s the best way to do this without breaking the bank’

“The first question we ask all of our clients is: “what is your budget?” and “how much would break the bank for you?” We ask this for two reasons. Firstly it’s actually very surprising how little furniture costs once you have a discussion face-to-face with brands. For instance Ayala offers all its upholstery with the option of two colours with no extra charge.

This means a basic priced chair can have hundreds of stunning finishes for no extra cost. It doesn’t break the bank and it gives your salon a unique look and feel.

Ayala has also created a backwash that in my 30 years’ of experience I’ve found to be the most comfortable and luxurious I’ve ever known. It’s half the price of any similar model on the market and of course you can choose the colour option you want at no extra charge. Again this will modernise your salon, without breaking the bank.

When you talk directly to an expert in salon interiors they understand what you’re trying to achieve and know how important your budget is to you.

In most cases an expert can offer alternatives that help you achieve a modern look within your budget.

Finally, why break the bank at all? Some companies, including Inspiring Salons offer great finance packages. Leasing for example, is a good option as you can modernise your salon without any upfront costs, which will free up your cash for other areas of the salon design.”

Mike Cooper, owner Inspiring Salons Ltd and Ayala UK design team

DîSÇöVêR ÿöûR STÿLê The Cadilla designed for salon life built for enduring style and performance

www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

INTERIORS GET YOUR LIGHTING RIGHT

SCOTT BANKS HAIRDRESSING, WAKEFIELD

3 1

2 SHUTTERSTO

CK

“My salon has period features and I’m restricted by what I can change. Any tips on how to work with what I’ve got?”

“Most salon owners would feel daunted by the task of taking on a listed building or one with notable architectural features. However, handled logically the features within these buildings can be very much an asset. This is not to say you should have a ‘Victorian-themed’ salon as you don’t want to create a pastiche.

Buildings in countries such as Italy embrace this within their design ethos. Cornice plaster detail is the most common and classic way to incorporate period features. It lends itself well to indirect up-lighting which can enhance the lighting in the salon.

I have a couple of examples of salons I’ve worked with in the UK – namely Scott Banks Hairdressing

in Wakefield and Deja Salon in Auchterarder, Perthshire. Scott Banks enhanced the period elements of his listed salon but added timeless items in a contemporary manner.

Jade McDonald, the owner of Deja Salon, maintained a quality approach when a previous designer might have wanted to lose some of the historical elements.

You will find council and conservation architects willing to work with you. The stages are there and the paperwork is not too difficult. I believe that period features and the building’s history will make your salon unique and capture the client’s attention.”

Albert Ewan, owner Albert Ewan Design

The right lighting can create a welcoming and functioning space. “The colour of your lighting is crucial for hairdressing salons,” explains Laceys operations director Terry Bunn. There are generally three versions of light: (1) Daylight: You might assume this would be the best option, but this can give quite a harsh blue tone.

(2) Cool White: This option is best to work with in the salon as it provides the most natural colour.

(3) Warm White: This moves towards the yellow spectrum which isn’t flattering for clients when they’re looking in the mirror.

Terry’s top lighting tips:

• The basic light fitting to use over each styling position is an LED panel light of 15w (approx.

200mm in diameter).

• Your ceiling height will dictate the size of the wattage required.

15w will work well for an average ceiling height of 2.5m.

• Use decorative feature lights to create the right atmosphere in your salon.

“I want to be as inclusive as possible in my salon. What do I have to think about when it comes to disabled clients and what are the design and furniture options out there?”

“You have to consider the Disability Discrimination Act 1995 (DDA) and where possible, make all areas compliant with the latest legislation on legislation.gov.uk.

For new builds you need to comply

with all current laws. This includes providing ample turning circles for wheelchairs and ensuring all areas such as staff rooms and colour bars are accessible. There is a minimum width for corridors so ensure all

RUSH, MOORGATE

40 / hji.co.uk

plans allow for this. There are several products on the market that are designed for dual purposes at the wash area. One example is the Podium Wash Point from Pahi (the Spanish manufacturers at Aston and Fincher). The Podium features a height adjustable central column with full tilt and spinning basin to allow for a wheelchair to be positioned in front.

When not in use by a wheelchair user you can place a height adjustable chair with an angled back in-front so it can still be used. The Podium retails at £1,498+VAT. Alternatively, Pahi has the Ibis, which is a mobile sink that can be set in place when it’s required.”

Stephen Ewings, Aston and Fincher Salon Design and Furniture Department

£699

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INTERIORS

r o i r e t n I Salon s y u b Star Vintage reworkings, sleek industrialinspired design and luxurious comfort, 2020’s top interior picks are cool, calm and collected Vintage rules As part of a heritage collection inspired by almost a century of manufacturing expertise, the Takara Belmont Vintage Alt A1205 ensures sofa-style comfort for clients and adds a splash of authentic retro style to any salon. The choice of materials and its design have been carefully considered by the brand’s expert designers. The A1205 can also be customised with a range of colours and base options.

From £1,230-£1,335

Wash in style

The Maletti Madam Lazzaro backwash, available from Albert Ewan, has quality and comfort built into its design.

The compact wash unit is covered in eco-leather and has a plywood inner frame which is reinforced with a galvanised steel frame. It is designed for serial connection with perforated holes for your salon’s water pipes.

POA, go to albertewandesign.com or call 01670 738 979

The multi-purpose chair The Takara Belmont Cadilla M Chair, available from Moda, can be used with or without a headrest for styling or backwashing. When the headrest is attached it can also be used as a threading or beauty chair. Features include a 360º (lockable) rotation, low backrest, metal armrests, footrest with stopper and it can be finished with chrome or matte metalwork.

Moda price: £1,565+VAT

Blooming gorgeous The Ayala Tulip Hydraulic Styling Chair is easy-to-clean and it is available in a range of colours. The locking hydraulic pump can be put on a chrome 5-star base as standard. Round and square locking hydraulics and the new Tulip shaped locking hydraulics are available on a square or round base for a small additional cost.

POA, go to ayalafurniture.co.uk

Curve appeal The Twiggy Styling Chair, part of the Maletti Madam collection, available from Laceys Hair Supplies, helps to recreate the experience of an informal lounge in the salon. Clients can relax in the inviting chair before, during and after their appointment.

Contemporary and strong, the Madam collection is bold, fashion-led and colourful.

POA, go to laceyshairsupplies.co.uk

Modern classics The Urban Concrete Collection from Takumi (exclusive to Aston and Fincher) is a collection that consists of five products. They all have modern black arm or frame details which makes it the perfect choice for any contemporary salon. The brand also recently released an alternative ‘T’ Model that features padded arms for improved comfort.

Takumi Yu Chair from £395, Takumi Yu-T Chair from £435+VAT, Takumi Yuto Wash Point from £825+VAT, Takumi Yuto-T Wash Point from £885+VAT and Takumi Dai Styling Unit from £399+VAT 42 / hji.co.uk

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CUTTING EDGE

Ltd

t( UK )

o ht rig ie W Kat

“Regular maintenance of your barber chair will keep it in pristine condition and avoid repairs. Clean the upholstery regularly with a neutral detergent diluted with warm water to the ratio of 10%. Apply to a soft towel before wiping.”

All of the latest men’s hairdressing news to help you improve your grooming game

n, on Na lm tio Be na a r l Sa les Manager, Taka

HOW TO BOUNCE BACK FROM COVID-19 With many barbering businesses facing uncertain times Joe Mills, owner of Joe and Co in London, shared his advice exclusively with HJ for keeping your team engaged during the coronavirus. “We have weekly meetings on Zoom to keep our team members motivated,” said Joe. “A lot of the guys are doing education in their free time, along with volunteering in their communities. We keep in touch with WhatsApp daily and there is a great team spirit.” He added that now is the time to stay in touch with clients. “Use the time to speak to them,” he said.

“Use social media to let them know what you have been up to and tell them what they can do about their hair and beards while they are at home. Keep that up and they will come back.”

American Crew All-Star Winners The American Crew All-Star Challenge recognised talent within men’s grooming. The winners of this year’s UK and Ireland awards were Aimee McPherson at Hidden Heights Creative Studio for the UK (winning image pictured) and Barry Kieran at Signature Hair for Ireland.

The Global Committee’s five All-Star Challenge 2020 winners from across the globe were awarded to Luke Munn (Australia), Jonathan Pereira (Belgium), Sandra Perovic (Canada), Danill Gochua (Russia) and David Da Campo (Switzerland). The global winners will receive $5,000 and a trip to Los Angeles to participate in a photoshoot alongside American Crew Founder and photographer David Raccuglia.

Barbers Offer Free services for NHS workers Hairforce1 Training Academy, which has a group of barbershops and a training academy in Essex, has launched a scheme to offer free haircuts to all NHS staff at its Romford branch once it reopens. Director and lead educator Anderson Boyce said: “We appreciate that

44 / hji.co.uk

this doesn’t even scratch the surface in terms of paying back the debt we owe NHS workers. This is just a small token of our appreciation and our way of saying thank you for your service.”

Read how other barbershops and hair salons are helping NHS workers at hji.co.uk.

Hair: Sam Wall , Photography: Marie Harkness

CASTING

Use your skills to reflect your client’s true character

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“The Casting collection aims to highlight individual personalities regardless of a person’s job or role in society. The hair is part of the visual persona that reflects an individual’s character from the romantic, bohemian and free spirit to the influencer, modernist and minimalist.”

Sam Wall

46 / hji.co.uk

★ Established in 1873, Morgan’s is the oldest manufacturer of hair and beauty products in the UK. ★ Approved by British Master Barbers. ★ Morgan’s produces the highest quality men’s hair, beard and spa products. ★ Our huge range includes pomade, styling, shave, beard, cologne and spa products. ★ British and international ambassadors. ★ Award winning product 2019 for our Matt Paste. ★ Traditionally established globally recognised. ★ Support British manufacturing at its best!

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Tel: +44 (0) 1227 792761 shop@morganspomade.co.uk

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CORONAVIRUS Essential FAQs

To help you during these challenging times, the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) answers your most frequently asked questions

I

n these difficult times, the NHBF is doing all it can to support everyone in our industry – irrespective of whether or not they are NHBF members.

“We’ve provided a wealth of regularly updated information on our website and social media that is accessible to everyone,” says NHBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “We’ve also received hundreds of calls from members who are worried about their staff and the future of their business.

Some of the most common questions are listed below.”

Details and links to further information about all of these questions can be found at: nhbf.co.uk/coronavirus-FAQ.

What financial help is available to salon owners?

The UK Government has been putting in place a number of schemes aimed at helping salons survive this crisis.

These include: •F inancial support to help retain staff rather than laying them off without pay or making them redundant • Deferred VAT and tax payments • Business interruption loans • Rates holidays • One-off grants •H elp with paying Statutory Sick

Pay for coronavirus-related What does being furloughed mean sickness or self-isolation. for salon employees?

The UK Government has also A furloughed employee is on a leave announced that commercial tenants of absence. Employers will be able who cannot pay their rent because of to claim 80% of an employee’s wages coronavirus will be protected while they are furloughed due to the from eviction (this is not confirmed coronavirus outbreak. in Scotland yet).

“Furloughed employees are not “We’ve also advised salon classed as working and so Join the owners to speak with their they will not be entitled to NHBF before banks who may be able the National Minimum 30 April 2020 to offer flexible facilities Wage (NMW),” points out and quote HJM25 and emergency loans,” Hilary. “This means 80% to get £25 off your adds Hilary. of their wages may take membership fee. Visit them below the NMW. What help is available www.nhbf.co.uk/ However, employees for self-employed join or call 01234 will have the same chair, space and 831965. employment rights as they room renters? did previously.”

Self-employed individuals will Find out more information about the job retention scheme at be able to claim 80% of their monthly nhbf.co.uk/furlough-FAQ. wages as a ‘taxable grant’ from the UK Government. You can apply using a Minimum wage increases simple online form.

The National Minimum Wage and “The scheme is for those with National Living Wage increases went average profits per year of £50,000 or ahead on 1 April 2020. less and who make more than half of “Along with other industry their income from self-employment,” leaders, we are urging the Low explains Hilary.

The NHBF’s coronavirus FAQs Pay Commission to take the huge (nhbf.co.uk/coronavirus-FAQ) also economic impact of the coronavirus offer advice about chair, space and outbreak into account when room renting rent payments while considering the size and timing of any salons are closed. future increases,” says Hilary.

For all the latest information visit the NHBF’s coronavirus information hub: nhbf.co.uk/coronavirus, follow @nhbfsocial and read regular updates on the NHBF’s website – nhbf.co.uk 48 / hji.co.uk

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“I wanted to create a set of images that teamed strong graphic shapes with beautiful and bold colours. This collection is all about confidence and pushing the boundaries.�

Bruno Marc 52 / hji.co.uk

FASHION Hair and artistic direction: Bruno Marc for JOICO Make-up: Katie Moore Styling: Bernard Connolly Photography: Jamie Blanshard

54 / hji.co.uk

CALLING OUT TO ALL

, S IE N A P M O C T C U D O WHOLESALERS, PR BARBERS & HAIRDRESSERS!

PLEASE CAN YOU HELP? I’m looking ANY donations no matter how big or small, to help my amazing cause.

I am sending out over 200 gift boxes a day as a thank you to help lift the spirits of each and every NHS worker, so your donations mean EVERYTHING! Let’s show our NHS how much we care.

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FASHION Hair: Miquel Garcia and Revlon Professional Artistic Team Ingrid Kadlecova, Una Radivojevic, Kirsten McKintosh, Krystal Malchuk and Paco Garrigues Make-up: Dani Rull Styling: Belen Antolin Photography: Miguel Reveriego

Vivacity Make an impact with colour

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FASHION

“The Vivacity collection is an invitation to explore high-tech colour experiences that achieve incredibly cool yet highly wearable results. Vivacity is inspired by the diversity and joyfulness of natural beauty which does not compromise on creating an impact and boosting the wearer’s confidence.”

Miquel Garcia, Revlon Professional VP global artistic & education 57 / hji.co.uk

MONDAY, 14TH SEPTEMBER 2020 | LONDON HILTON ON PARK LANE

ENTER NOW CELEBRATE SUCCESS Enter now at www.hji.co.uk/hjs-british-hairdressing-business-awards or contact Lizzi Diggins at 020 3841 7365 SPONSORSHIP ENQUIRIES: Contact Jackie Brown at 020 3841 7366 or email jackie@hji.co.uk

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fi n is h

FASHION

“This collection highlights the definition and placement of colour and its relationship to styling.

A subtle stroke of colour around the face can bring focus to the style and craft an entirely new look. We used light and shade both on set and throughout the hair to create contrast much like an artist would do when painting. A fresh take on neon shades, the neo colour palette brings lived-in looks to life for an intentionally unintentional finish.�

Kevin Murphy, founder

62 / hji.co.uk

FASHION

Hair: Creative director: Kevin Murphy; Colour: Kate Reid, Leland Olson, Emma Bjorkman and Jacob Marek; Cutting: Pascal Van Loenhout; Styling: James Nicholson, Wade Blackford and Craig Hughan Make-up: Hristina Georgievska Styling: Emily Ward Photography: Luis Murphy

63 / hji.co.uk

Hair: Hooker & Young Art Team Photography: Michael Young

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Nouveau

Fuse 1980s eclectic individualism with editorial styles

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FASHION

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FASHION

“Nouveaux Romantique was inspired by the renaissance of hairstyles and textures from the iconic 1980s new romantic pop culture scene.

My collection is about eclectic individualism and expressing beauty in an unconventional way.�

Karoliina Saunders

Hair: Karoliina Saunders Make-up: Jo Sugar Styling: Bernard Connolly Photography: Desmond Murray

68 / hji.co.uk

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t u O d Stan Cameo

re fo e B

Hair goes shorter for spring with a raw finish, added attitude and some feminine yet glamorous tones

Hair: Andy Smith and Paddy McDougall for INDOLA Make-up: Phoebe Taylor Styling: Christopher Maul Photography: Jesper Brandt 77 / hji.co.uk

GET THE LOOK

STEP BY STEP

ut

C

Section and centre elevate the Cut the perimeter and work on the Work the top section on 1baseline hair. Cut flat in your perimeter 2 sides using a 45-degree elevation 3 elevation and cut round pivot and repeat on the other side. and horizontal sections. Cut to mid ear. to the sides. Dry and refine.

r u lo

o C

Lighten mid-lengths and preApply lightener on ends to clean Alternate colour 1 – P.16 + 2% cream 1bleach lighten roots with blonde expert 2 up the base. Let the lightener 3 developer (1:1), colour 2 – creator 100 + 2% cream developer develop, rinse and dry. Section the + 7.76 + 2% cream developer (10:1:1) and (1:2) with lightener on mid-lengths.

hair and alternate colours.

colour 3 – P.14 + 2% cream developer.

g

S

Let the colour develop 4 between 35 and 40 minutes, rinse and condition.

er Aft

in tyl

Apply salt spray to damp hair and dry the hair using a round brush.

Use a thermal protector and iron the hair into place. Pin the hair into the final shape.

“This trend is all about making a statement and going against the grain. It’s based on remaining youthful and having a rebellious vibe.”

Andy Smith for INDOLA 78 / hji.co.uk

T HE HOT LIST

Instant hair filler

Parisian couture

Summer lovin’

L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Pro Longer focuses on fragile areas to give hair an instant fuller and thicker finish. The range includes a shampoo, conditioner, mask, cream and concentrate. From £8

Balmain Paris Hair Couture unveils three pastel-shade Limited Edition Cosmetics Bags for spring/summer.

The lavender, pink and green bags contain a travel size sun protection spray, argan elixir and salt spray.

Schwarzkopf Professional BC Sun Protect Travel Kit contains BC Sun Protect Prep & Protection Spritz, Hair and Body Bath and 2-in-1 Treatment in a stylish travel bag for gorgeous summer locks. RRP £19.95

Inside and out

All in one

Refresh and revitalise

3 more inches has four new additions – PowerShot Nutrients for stronger and healthier hair, Thicker Quicker for a volumising blow-dry, Volumising Mousse and LifeSaver UV – a protective treatment spray.

Keratin Complex Vitalshot is a serum that rebuilds hair bonds in one step. The serum can be used alone with a mask or in all colouring services to strengthen damaged hair inside and out.

R+Co Two-Way Mirror is a lightweight smoothing spray.

The ingredients include moringa seed oil and argan oil, which melt into the hair to leave each strand nourished and polished.

Tangle saver

Anti-yellow fever

Colourful mix

Saco Primer is a leave-in treatment created to detangle hair every day. The primer contains hydrolysed silk protein, comfrey and bamboo extracts to repair, protect and add shine.

Crazy Color Ultra Violet has a new look and new sizes for salon and retail. The anti-yellow shampoo is formulated for blonde, bleached and pre-lightened hair to banish brassiness. From £5.85

Paul Mitchell Crema XG is a demipermanent vegan cream colour.

There are over 35 shades to choose from to tone, refresh, blend grey and provide shine and condition for soft and healthy hair. £6.57

79 / hji.co.uk

Care and repair

Get length faster

Spray to defend

Redken Extreme Lengths is a biotin-infused system for clients seeking length and strength while protecting fragile hair. The range includes a shampoo, conditioner and split end corrector. From: £18

Hairdreams Freestyler is a precision application tool for applying extensions. The device has a light ergonomic design and can be used to apply individual pre-bonded extensions and microlines.

Kevin.Murphy EVER.SMOOTH heat activated style extender contains long chain polymers which lock in condition and wood bark complex to protect the hair for a smooth blow-dry. RRP: £30

Infrared magic

Balayage blending

Bleach and treat

Upgrade’s new range of stylers feature Infrared technology for lasting looks without using high heat. The range includes a curling tong, straightener, waving tool and hairdryer. From £60.23

Indola’s set of tools are designed for flawless blending. The brush and sponge kit has three brush variations from traditional for tinting, bevelled and angled for freehand and a sponge for blending.

The Maria Nila Bleach Collection includes Silver Bleach for a colder result and Balayage Bleach for freehand techniques. The range also includes Silver Shot to neutralise unwanted yellow tones at home.

Fight frizz

Salon support

Daydream believer

Ouidad Advanced Climate Control is specifically for curly girls.

The range includes a defrizzing shampoo, conditioner, detangling spray, heat and humidity gel and a restore and revive treatment.

Eleventh Hour Beauty is an online platform that helps hair salons fill empty slots. The brand has launched with a #StandWithSalons campaign led by Olivia Bowen.

From £9.99 per month

JOICO Dream Blowout is a thermal protection crème that aims to save time while shielding hair from thermal damage. It leaves hair soft, smooth and shiny while reducing blow-dry time by 50%.

80 / hji.co.uk

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INTERIORS

A home from home Adam Reed London in the capital’s East End is a warm and fun lifestyle space that helps clients to feel at ease

A

dam Reed has worked in the hairdressing industry for 34 years. He is a well-known session stylist and was nominated for British Hairdresser of the Year at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional in 2019.

When he decided to open his own salon he was keen to give clients a curated hair and lifestyle space.

The building he chose to create his vision originally belonged to a fruit and vegetable merchant and Adam decided to keep most of the interior’s original features.

The space is split into two main sections with a separate backwash area that is located in the original

vegetable merchant’s office.

There are four backwash stations, which are situated in the merchant’s office. Adam says: “There are some lovely original features in the backwash area, including the old office safe and a beautiful Victorian fireplace with a lovely picture display.”

While renovating the interior some of the building’s old fixtures had to be removed. Adam worked with a local carpenter who respected his vision and made a lot happen in a short space of time. He says: “We decided to use the original mid-century furniture throughout the salon and our carpenter helped us to set and secure these pieces. Other than that, 84 / hji.co.uk

we fitted and decorated the interior ourselves.”

Adam wanted his salon to be a creative, inspiring and friendly space where clients can be as peaceful or productive as they like. He’s created areas to read and relax as well as spaces to work.

He chose some of his favourite artists to work with on the salon’s interior from House of Hackney fabrics to Jamie Gaunt wooden objects and there is an emphasis on reclaimed furniture combined with a warm and welcoming colour palette.

Adam says the colours in the space were beautiful when he first arrived so he decided to maintain them where possible. “I had seen a

INTERIORS Name: Adam Reed London Address: 1 Fournier Street, London Owner: Adam Reed Size: Approx 85sqm How many staff: 8 Design: Adam Reed Furniture: Takara Belmont’s new and original chairs with upcycled mid-century furniture used throughout the space.

ADAM’S TOP TIPS: • Upcycle where you can Use sites like eBay to source unusual pieces that you can incorporate into your designs. This will give you a point of difference.

• Test your interior Try out your salon experience from the perspective of your client. Sit where your clients will sit and see

beautiful House of Hackney wallpaper whilst I was looking into ideas for the space, which now adorns the walls in the bathroom. The wallpaper, which is featured throughout the salon is called Gaia in Blush. I used The Little Greene Paint Company for my paint with the shades Thai Sapphire, Light Gold and Hellebore to complement the original features in the salon.”

Lighting was incredibly important for Adam and he was keen to keep the original lighting throughout while adding some soft neutral additions.

“The styling space in the middle of the salon has beautiful warm shades and there is a beautiful natural light system in the backwash to help clients relax.”

The floor is covered with wooden panels and the backspace is made from concrete.

He wanted the reception space to be as welcoming and comfortable as possible so clients can enjoy relaxing and prepare for the start of their salon journey. There are plant pots containing English lavender and scented candles to help clients ease into a few hours of pampering.

Adam Reed London’s standout feature is described as the ‘chandhairlier’, which is a chandelier made from the upcycled hair that has been lying in Adam’s session kit for years. He has a beautiful dog station with a bed and dog refreshment station from Fetch and Follow. Other 85 / hji.co.uk

your space from their eyes. Try on the gowns and drink from the cups.

• Be innovative Spend time researching ideas for your service offering and think outside of the box. Consider your client’s expectation of their salon visit beyond just great hairdressing and look outside of the hairdressing industry for ideas.

standout features include original mid-century salon stations at the front of the salon.

The salon takes its cues from the vintage shops that Adam loves. There is the Grace Brothers-style display cabinet in the welcome area housing Adam’s curation of his favourite beauty, lifestyle and grooming products. There is also the vintage Ladderax cabinets housing the tea and coffee station where guests can wander up and make their own.

He wanted to create a space that offers beautiful comfort combined with an element of curiosity. He has certainly created the perfect balance of a place that is cool and fun, yet makes you feel like you are at home.

CAREERS

The multi-tasker

Jenn Linton, co-managing director of Linton & Mac in Aberdeen, reveals how she juggles running a salon with working backstage at fashion week

How did you become a hairdresser?

What challenges have you faced in your career so far?

I drove past a salon every day when I was going to school and always said to my mum that I wanted to work there. When I was 15 I decided to ask the salon for a job and they gave it to me. I started my training there and completed it at Migele Experience.

In 2010 I moved to Aberdeen and got a job at Ishoka. I was there for three and a half years and learned so much with them. I always knew I wanted to have my own salon and had loads of ideas. I worked my socks off for two years as a self-employed hairdresser to save and learn more on how to run accounts and stock. This gave me the confidence to open Linton & Mac when I was 25. It’s been a crazy four and a half years and I’ve been lucky enough to enter competitions, awards, assist at fashion week and do photoshoots with some of the biggest names in the industry.

My biggest challenge to date has to be being a salon owner. Having employees is like having a lot of children that depend on you. Learning how to people manage and get the best out of everyone and learning that not everyone thinks the same as you has also been a challenge.

What are your tips for someone who wants a career like yours?

My biggest tip is one that I’m still trying to teach myself – you need to find a balance in everything. Say yes to as many opportunities as you can but don’t burn yourself out in the process.

It’s not worth it and it’s only you that will lose out in the end. Always be polite and nice to people even when you don’t always get it in return and put love and energy into the roles that make you happy.

What is your present role?

What is your styling philosophy?

I am the salon owner of Linton & Mac. I currently do three days of clients in the salon in Aberdeen and I use my other time to grow the business. I am hands-on in accounts, marketing, training and managing, so this does take a lot of my time. I’ve also been part of Richard Phillipart’s art team for eight months working on shoots and assisting him at fashion week.

I love undone messy hairstyling and classic ponytails, which I hold in place with the L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Constructor. For colour, I like a root tap/smudge so it doesn’t look too fresh. My signature colour has to be a lived-in blonde. I like to do a mixture of highlights and free hand work to brighten the hair and I use the Linton & Mac method tone technique.

We use a minimum of three toners to deepen out the root and then blend the other two colours to give dimension and sparkle to the rest.

What are the pros and cons of your role?

I love the diversity of my job. I also love travelling and meeting new people.

However it can be challenging managing my time in and out of the salon.

What Instagram accounts do you follow?

I am massively into food and wellbeing so my favourite account has to be Jasmine Hemsley. She is a former model turned cook and author. I love to look at her recipes but I also love her style for fashion and interiors so I get loads of inspiration from her.

What are your tips for building a name in the industry?

From a marketing perspective it’s crucial to know your brand goals and share them with others. Don’t waste energy trying to be good at everything and focus on what you are good at – make that your goal. Decide what clients you want to attract and make sure you target them. Use social media for free marketing and use it to network with clients and others within the industry. It’s also really important to build relationships with the local press.

What’s next for you in your career?

I have so many ideas that I never know what will come next, to be honest. I try not to have a structured plan in case something comes up or gets in the way so I enjoy the ride. I would like to focus on education and developing our brand in new ways.

86 / hji.co.uk

CLASSIFIED Tel: 020 3841 7376

PRODUCTS

PROPERTY Leatherhead area. Smart Fitted Hair Salon. Wealthy location. Parade. Lease @ £10,500p.a. £4,200wk (5 days).

A/C’s show £38,000 Net. £72,000 Newbury, West Berks. Smart Salon (1,084sq.ft.). Lease @ £19,000p.a. T/O £60,000 (inc. £40k chair rents).

Retirement Sale. £18,500 Newbury area. Very Smart Hair and Beauty. Good Lease. Superb location. Well fitted. £4,250wk. Very fairly priced £29,950 Putney / Richmond, S W London. High Class Hair / Beauty Salon (10 positions). Lease. Two Flats. £6,000wk.

High Profit. Retirement sale. £59,000 Wealthy Thames Valley / Chilterns (near High Wycombe). Good Class Hair Salon. Parade. Good Lease. Three Bed Maisonette. £2,750wk. £35,000 Wye Valley Country Town. Flagship Salon. Main street. Spacious Well Fitted Unit. Two Bed Flat. Tde £5,500wk (ex VAT). 5 days. £495,000 F’hold or £45,000 on Lease

HERE AT POWDER WE ARE A LEADING SALON IN OUR INDUSTRY We are looking for enthusiastic self employed TOWELS

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NEW Reading. Hair Salon. Well sought area. Lease. Rent £8,500p.a. Tde £1,250wk (5 days). Retirement Sale. £20,000 Aldershot area, Hants. Very Smart Hair / Beauty. Busy location.

Parade. Lease. Well fitted throughout. £3,325wk. Owner retiring. £47,500 East Berks Town Centre. Good Class Hair Salon. Quality Fitted.

Seat 15+. Air-conditioned. Good lease @ £24,000p.a. Staff run.

Has been £5,250wk. £42,500 Edge of Cotswolds. Superb Salon. Rapidly growing area, Lease.

Spacious Double Unit. Seat 16+. Takes £10,500wk. High profit. £120,000 Mid Kent. Hair / Beauty Salon. £6,500 wk. Old Estab. New Lease. £35,000 (or £275,000 F’hold) Reading. Gents Salon. Main road. Well Fitted. Lease. £1,400wk.

Staff run. £25,000 South Herts - M25 belt area. Spacious Salon. Town Centre. New Lease. £4,500wk. Staff run. Good potential for working owner. £34,995 (Freehold available) West Berks - few miles Newbury. Spacious Hair & Beauty.

Character Premises. Lease. 11 work stations. On-site parking.£2,000-£2,500wk. £27,500 Wokingham, Berks. Very Smart Fitted. Lease. £4,000-£4,500wk.

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INSPIRATION

Life Through a Lens

 Northern Lights

“I created this shot before the bright colour trend started. It was a lot of fun to work on and I was proud of how fresh it was at the time. I based the look around the sheer beauty of the Northern Lights."

h t i m S e n i v e D Tracey The British Hairdressing Awards Hall of Fame Member and Affinage Salon Professional (ASP) global ambassador shares her seven all-time favourite creations 

Thought-provoking

“This was the first big shoot that I did purely for my own creativity and not to enter any awards. I really tried to create something thought- provoking yet classically beautiful. It’s incredibly simple but the way it has been photographed makes it very stylish.”

 A new direction

 Texture overload

“I adore the feeling and texture of this image. It’s about the hair and the detail in the texture, which took hours to create. This collection reached the final of the British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored

by Schwarzkopf Professional so it will always be special to me.”

 Candy pop

“This image was shot for ASP’s Candy Pop collection. On the day of the shoot we were struggling to capture the perfect look, then we put these glasses on the model, and within seconds the photographer captured the perfect shot. This was our most successful cover and it was published in magazines all over the world. We ended up with seven front covers, which was incredible. This image will always be a career highlight for me.”

 A magic fairy tale

“This is from ASP’s Vintage Pretty collection. The colour work was intricate and I'm pleased with the end look. I love the way she is slouching down and looks so innocent.

The textured fairy tale hair, combined with the brick wall is quite magical.”

88 / hji.co.uk

“This image was part of my collection that won Men’s Hairdresser of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, in 2012. I felt it realigned men’s hairdressing and I was delighted with the response.”

 Strong warrior

“I love this shot. It’s from a collection I shot for ASP called Tribal Tranquility.

It looks so intense as she is a warrior and I feel a great connection with this image.

The hair is not too fussy but just works perfectly.”

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