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issue 125

April 2017

idiot's guide

to the park geun-hye impeachment

music at the cinema counting down some of the most memorable movie soundtracks

gopchang

a dive into the wonderful world of korean offal eating.

www.groovekorea.com


What's in this issue Vol. 125 APRIL 2017

8

Key People Meet Groove’s editorial team and a few of our talented contributors

12

What's on Festivals, concerts, happy hours, networking and events for every day of the month

16-19

National News national news with Korea JoongAng Daily

34

Check out one of Asia's Most Eclectic Film Festivals

Sponsor

special

14

34

lee Moon Won Clinic Dr Moon offers a helping hand with some solid advice in hair loss

community 20

This is What Democracy Looks Like An American experiences living, thriving democracy in action on Korean Independence Day

26 An Idiot’s Guide to the Park Geun-hye Scandal Q&A with the JoongAng Daily helps sort out one of the biggest news stories in modern Korean history

4

www.groovekorea.com April 2017

29

Teaching in the countryside The tale of first coming to Korea, being stuck in the countryside, and not appreiciating it enough

30

How to… Keep Korea cheap Survive the spring and summer months without emptying your savings account

The 18th Jeonju IFF: A Slight Change in Name, No Change in its commitment to Cinema Check out one of Asia's Most Eclectic Film Festivals

38

interview Jeonju IFF programmer Jang Byun Won

40

Hotspots and Hangouts Planning to attend the Jeonju IFF? Here’s a guide to the locals’ favorite places to eat and drink

46

The Nuances of Free Time While away your weekend with a cup of coffee, movie, and poetry

p20

Anti-Park sentiment high at 3.1 protests


What's in this issue Vol. 125 APRIL 2017

64

A dive into the wonderful world of Korean offal eating Gombawi

music 50

Music at the cinema Music editor's top 12 favorite film scores

art 54

Groove Goes Art From opera to manga

60

Get Fisted! Boston-Irish pub and brewing company remains an expat cultural institution in Kyungridan

64

The Guts of the Night A dive into the wonderful world of Korean offal eating

Film 56

Korean Movie Preview: April Hauntings, hoardings, and hospitals

6

www.groovekorea.com April 2017

Food&drink 58

Morococo Cafe Casablanca Sandwicherie owner spices it up with new HBC cafe.

p50

Music ed it top 12 fa or's v film scor orite es


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Key people Vol. 125 APRIL 2017

Robert Michael Evans

Dean Crawford

Heather Allman

is an internationally published photographer from Atlanta, Georgia who has has been calling Seoul home for the last three years. He received his B.S. in Anthropology which helped him develop a keen eye for his life behind the lens. When he isn’t busy taking photos (which he almost always is), he can be found cruising the streets of Seoul on his beloved motorcycle. To see more of his work visit www.robertmichaelevans.com

from London and has been in Korea off and on for about 8 years. In between, he spent most of his time working at Hogwarts and the X-Mansion on and Harry Potter and X-Men, as well as some other low budget productions you’ve probably never heard of. With a BA in Film, it’s undoubtedly his passion, meaning he watches a lot of movies and attends lots of films festivals. His favorite thing about Korea is the food, which is lucky seeing as his lives in Jeonju!

comes from the United States and currently resides in Jeonju. With a background in International Relations and Spanish, she has a dexterity for language and a passion for world travel. Heather’s ambition is to combine her loves of writing and globe trotting into one big, multilingual, career fantástico.

8

www.groovekorea.com April 2017

Dianne Pineda Seth Martin

Rob Shelley

is a topical songwriter and folksinger from the rural and mountainous Pacific Northwest (US). When not touring in the States, he spends most of his time in Korea. A frequent performer in Korean and foreigner roots/ indie circles, Martin hosts the “World Folk Music Night” at Chewhadang Cafe in Seoul, which features traditional Korean music as well as indie and folk acts from all over the world. You can hear his music at sethmartinandthemenders.bandcamp.com

is from the small town of Baie Verte, Newfoundland, is the Editor-at-Large and a regular contributor to Groove Korea as well as an active member of Editors Canada. He was also a translation editor and contributor to The Beer Post, an editor and writer for Craft Beer Asia, and has contributed to Seoul Selection. After six years in Seoul and Incheon, he will be heading to Shenzhen, China to continue his path as a freelance writer/editor. Check out his writing portfolio at coldcalc.com

used to be a magazine editor and stylist in Manila until she decided to pack her excess baggage and settle down in Jeonju with husband, Seong Jin Kim. Plucked from her fast-paced city life, Dianne now enjoys scouring Jeonju for unique places and taking fashionable OOTDs in rural town Gwancheon where her husband works. This issue, she wrote about hole-in-the-wall cafes with the recommendation of her forever date and true blue, Jeonju born-and-bred husband. Aside from her writing jobs, Dianne spends her time walking in the dog park... without a dog. Follow Dianne's Jeonju adventures at @dianne_panda.


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EDITORIAL emma KALKA music@groovekorea.com jordan Redmond food@groovekorea.com rob SHELLEY rob@groovekorea.com heather ALLMAN heather@groovekorea.com barbara BIERBRAUER barbara@groovekorea.com gil Coombe gil@groovekorea.com photography steve SMITH photo@groovekorea.com peter KIM, robert EVANS W RITERS & CONTR IBUTORS Jack Baer, Ali Saleh, Steve Lemlek Liam Ring, David Murphy, Simon McEnteggart Jason Newland, Yoo Jin Oh, Casey Mann, Andy Hume, Julia Mellor Naomi Blenkinsop, Iztok Fister, Dusan Fister, Dianne Pineda Kiwi Chamber, BCCK, IAK, Irish Embassy, Hancinema, BIFF Lorenzo Corti, Anuj Madan,Clayton Jones Kaegan Saenz, Giovanni Tamburrini, El Pino 323 Dukhwa, Clayton Jones, Hyung-joon Won Lindenbaum Music Company, Catherine Lee ART & DESIGN ART DIRECTOR A-GRID WORK design@a-grid.net PUBLISHER sean choi sean@groovekorea.com

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To contribute to Groove Korea, email submissions@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. To have Groove Korea delivered to your home or business, email subscribe@groovekorea.com. To contribute to groovekorea, promote an event or share your opinions, please email info@groovekorea.com or the appropriate editor. The articles are the sole property of GROOVE KOREA No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of GROOVE KOREA The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. © All rights reserved Groove Korea Magazine 2016

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While Busan might have the sales and Cannes might have the stars, the Jeonju International Film Festival keeps the art of film at its forefront. In this issue, we provide an in depth preview of one of Asia's most prominent film festivals. Cover Photo by Dean Crawford itchener


What's on

festival

Yeouido Spring Flower Festival

when April 1-9 | where Yeouido, Seoul

The Yeongdeungpo Yeouido Spring Flower Festival is the most famous cherry blossom street in Seoul, taking place in the street behind the National Assembly Building at Yeouido, is lined with cherry blossom trees and cultural street performances, a flower decoration exhibit, and a photo exhibit takes place throughout the festival period.

Musical

Jinhae Gunhangje Festival

Jindo Miracle Sea Parting Festival

when April 1- 0 | where Jinhae, Changwon-si

when April 26-29 | where Jindo-gun, Jeollanam-do

Yeon Deung Hoe (Lotus Lantern Festival)

Icheon Ceramic Festival

when April 28-30 where Jongro and Dongdaemun areas, Seoul

when April 28 – May 14 where Seolbong Park, Icheon-si

12 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

festival

festival

festival

Jekyll & Hyde

when Until May 21 where Blue Square, Hannam-dong, Seoul who Original casts

festival

film

Life

when April 5 who Jake Gyllenhaal, Rebecca Ferguson, Ryan Reynolds


APRIL 2017

Muse In City HIPHOPPLAYA Festival 2017

when April 23 | where Olympic Park

A music festival started in 2013 for and by female artists. This year’s participating artists are Norah Jones, Corinne Bailey Rae, Kim Yuna, Lucia, The Barberettes and many more.

Shepard Fairey The Great GRAFFITI: Peach & Justice

concert

concert

Coldplay

when April 15 & 16 | where Jamsil Stadium

film

Patriots Day

when April 6 who Mark Wahlberg, John Goodman, Kevin Bacon

When Art Becomes Liberty: The Egyption Surrealists Exhibition

Exhibition

when Until April 30 where Hangaram Art Museum in Seoul Arts Center

when April 8 | where Nanji Han-river Park who DOK2, The Quiett, Jay Park, BEWHY, C JAMM, LOCO, PALOALTO, NUCKSAL and more.

Exhibition

Leiji Matsumoto

when Until May 1 where Hangaram Art Museum in Seoul Arts Center

film

The Secret Scripture

when April 13 who Rooney Mara, Eric Bana

when April 7–July 30 where MMCA (National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art) Deoksugung branch

film

The Shack

when April 20 who Sam Worthington, Octavia Spencer

13 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

concert


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14 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

Metallic or plastic combs are not the best choice

LEE MOON WON’s choice Being a clinic of Traditional Korean Medicine which specializes in hair loss treatment, we pay close attention to the quality of hair products. At our clinic, you will receive the best service related to scalp and hair care, and you will be able to choose from the best handmade accessories to maintain beautiful and healthy hair.

Metallic or plastic combs are not the best choice Silicon combs, good for applying foam or wax on hair, can also be used for creating bouffant hairstyles. However it is better to avoid silicon combs for everyday use, as they create hair static. These days we can see a great number of metallic or plastic combs on the market, as some buyers enjoy their versatility. However, metallic combs are not good for everyday use as they can damage the scalp’s surface. Plastic combs can’t evenly spread sebum along the surface and, like silicon combs, create hair static. Due to this reason, it is recommended to apply anti-static solution before using plastic or silicon combs. And metallic combs can’t be used during hair color/dying, as metal can start a chemical reaction while in contact with color ingredients. Due to all the reasons mentioned above, hair specialists strongly recommend the use of natural and hair friendly wooden combs.


Attractive and beautiful hair is the 1st pride of every woman. However not everyone receives good hair naturally, so with help of everyday care you can create better hair condition. Every day we start from washing our face to brushing and styling our hair. Each day we use different types of brushes and combs, and for each purpose we better use the proper tools.

Combs are multipurpose and useful

What comb shape to chose?

A comb has a flat shape, which is used exactly for hair brushing purposes. Combs are helpful in making sections and creative hair styles. Most often combs are wooden, plastic, or silicon. Hair specialists recommend the use of wooden combs, as those do not damage hair and are ecologically friendly. Besides this, wooden combs are anti-static compared to plastic combs. While choosing a wooden comb, it is important to pay attention to the quality. Wooden combs should be absolutely smooth. Avoid colored combs as the coloring itself includes chemicals. Avoid using combs with cracks or a peel-off cover surface, Before buying your comb, check all the details.

Combs and brushes have different shapes. But what shape should each of us use? Before making a choice, first you need to consider the purpose of use. Below we provide several tips which will help you choose the right comb.

Since ancient times in Korea, bamboo combs were used not only for tangled hair brushing, but to help with insomnia, headaches, hair loss, and early gray hair growth. From the perspective of medical science, thanks to the bamboo comb’s smooth teeth, it gives a gentle massage to the scalp’s surface. This improves blood circulation, so hair follicles start to receive to better supply of oxygen and supplements, which gives a positive effect on the overall health and look of hair. Bamboo combs, due to its smooth surface and right shape, are used worldwide. Bamboo combs are eco-friendly and pure, so they do not contain chemical infusion. Bamboo combs perfectly remove hair static, so your hair remains smooth and easy to care for. In addition to this, bamboo combing protects the cuticle layer from damage and evenly spread oil or mask pack mixture, from the roots to the tips of the hair. As a result, you obtain a natural gloss hair look.

15

Bamboo combs

1. If you prefer the use of natural and eco friendly products, wooden combs are the best choice. Wooden brushes vary depends on the wood type. The most recommended is the bamboo comb. Bamboo is solid, yet flexible for shaping. Due to this reason, bamboo combs have very smooth and nicely shaped teeth. Bamboo combs help not only with tangled ends and static prevention, but providing a gentle massage on the scalp. 2. To improve shine and smoothness of hair, it’s better to use a fine tooth wooden comb. 3. For long and thick hair, a paddle brush is the best choice. 4. To create beautiful curls or waves, use round brushes with a smaller diameter. Round brushes help create a beautiful style without breaking the hair structure. 5. For volume creation it is better to chose a round brush with a wider diameter, which makes it easier to create volume hair styles. 6. While blow drying, it is better not to use metallic brushes or combs, as the metallic body receives heat from the dryer, resulting in overdry or even damaged hair strands. Due to this reason it is better to chose brushes with wooden or silicon body.


Nati on a l News

In association with APRIL 2017 / www.koreajoongangdaily.com All stories are culled with consent from Korea JoongAng Daily’s website and edited by Groove Korea for length and clarity. The opinions expressed here do not necessarily represent those of Groove Korea. — Ed.

Sunken Sewol ferry emerges, shows no sign of collision

T

16 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

he Sewol ferry rose from the water in one piece on March 25 evening, showing itself in full view to the families of the 304 victims, nine of whom are still missing, for the first time in nearly three years. Lying on its port side on a semi-submersible ship, as it did for 1,072 days on the seabed 44 meters (144 feet) below the water’s surface, the ferry was scratched and corroded but showed no signs of a collision on its exterior, though much of its structures on the prow and deck appeared destroyed or missing. One of the alleged causes of the ferry’s capsizing was that it collided with a submarine or a heavy object underwater. The ferry also showed more than 100 holes in its exterior punctured during the salvaging process. It had two long vertical gashes on its port side, descending from the prow.

The Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries said nothing can be confirmed until investigations commence when the ferry reaches land. The 6,825-ton ferry capsized off Jindo, an island in South Jeolla, on April 16, 2014. It was carrying 476 people, 304 of whom, mostly high school students on a field trip, died. Nine bodies are still unaccounted for and are believed to be inside the ship. On March 23, the ferry broke the surface of the water after being pulled up by two jacking barges for a day and by the next day was hoisted 13 meters out of the water and towed toward a semi-submersible ship waiting nearby. It was placed on the semi-submersible ship around midnight, disconnected from the jacking barges, and was completely out of the water at 9:15 p.m. March 25. Workers continued to try to deplete the ferry of leftover seawater and oil on Sunday March 26. After this work is complete

The Sewol ferry is lying on its port side on a semi-submersible ship on March 26 southwest of Jindo, an island in South Jeolla. The ferry was raised completely out of the water a day earlier, nearly three years since it sank and took 304 lives, most of them high school students on a field trip. [YONHAP]

and the ferry is further fastened to the ship, it is expected to leave for Mokpo, South Jeolla. “It may take some three to five days of taking out the seawater and oil left inside the ship and getting it ready to depart for Mokpo New Port,” said Lee Cheol-jo, head of the Sewol salvaging committee of the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries, in a press conference. “The process of depleting the water and oil will be conducted as slowly as possible, because doing it quickly could lead to losses in the articles and properties of the victims,” said Hwang Dae-sik, secretary general of the Maritime Rescue and Salvage Association. “Once the ferry reaches land, it will be investigated to determine the cause of its capsizing, so there is a need to minimize any human intervention to the state of the ship.” The semi-submersible ship carrying the ferry is expected to travel at some 4 to 5 knots or some 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) per hour, which means it will take about 10 hours to reach the Mokpo New Port once it departs. The ferry, weighing some 10,000 tons altogether with cargoes and sediments will then be hauled onto a dry dock using a type of modular transporter. The ferry lying on its port side on the semi-submersible ship showed 126 holes, punctured by Shanghai Salvage, a state-run Chinese company working with the Oceans Ministry in hoisting the ferry out of the water using the “tandem lifting” method. The ministry had explained that the holes were necessary as part of the salvaging process, and that workers had installed nets on or around the ferry to prevent articles or bodies from getting lost in the sea. The ministry said


National News

Man arrested for video of chairman of Samsung

S

eoul prosecutors arrested a man last month on charges of orchestrating the recording of a lurid video involving Samsung Electronics Chairman Lee Kun-hee, officials said March 7. In July 2016, Newstapa, an online news outlet run by the Korea Center for Investigative Journalism, filed a report saying the business tycoon paid money to suspected sex workers five times between 2011 and 2013 at his houses in southern Seoul. In the video clips released by the news outlet, a conversation between a man, who appears to be Lee, and the women indicate some sort of sexual services were arranged between them. The Seoul Central District Prosecutors’ Office arrested the suspect, who is only known by his surname Sun, on Feb. 25 for violating the Act on Special Cases Concerning the Punishment, etc., of Sexual Crimes. He is known to be a former employee at an affiliate of CJ, South Korea’s food and entertainment conglomerate. CJ, run by Lee’s relatives, was part of Samsung Group before it was separated in 1993. At the time of the recording, the two groups were involved in a dispute over assets left by Lee’s father Lee Byung-chul, who founded the group. The man resigned after he was arrested, according to CJ Group. “It is a crime of a former employee that has nothing to do with the company,” the group said. “The group who took the clips earlier asked us to buy them, but we have rejected them.” Prosecutors are looking into whether the suspect, who allegedly ordered the women to videotape Lee, blackmailed Samsung Group to receive money. They will also investigate if prostitution actually took place and if so, whether the conglomerate was involved in the process. Lee was hospitalized in May 2014 after suffering a heart attack. His son and de facto leader of the group Lee Jae-yong has been put into custody over allegations of bribery in connection to the impeached President Park Geun-hye.

17 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

it may puncture some more on the bottom of the ferry to draw out remaining water, adding that these areas are not connected to the cabins where the bodies or articles of the dead are expected to be. A 160-meter by 200-meter mesh-fence that is 3 meters high was also installed on the seabed around the ferry in April. Once the ferry reaches port and is safely fastened, the Oceans Ministry with Shanghai Salvage will begin underwater investigations at the seabed where the ferry used to lie. Divers will be dispatched to search within the fence, and the area will be divided into 40 sections and searched thoroughly one by one. Each will be searched four times, according to the ministry. But some raised questions that an opening on the ferry’s port side remained immersed in water as it was towed for a few kilometers to the semi-submersible ship. “The opening was at the cargo section of the ferry, and it’s unlikely that a victim’s body could have been there,” Lee said. “We didn’t know when we were lifting the ferry from the seabed that the ramp was open because the ferry was lying on its port side.” This opening was partly visible as the ferry lay on the semi-submersible ship, and a car and an excavator could be seen stuck at the opening. Once the ferry is successfully fastened at the port in Mokpo, investigations into the cabins will commence. “We may cut into the cabins from the outside in searching for the missing bodies,” said Yoon Hag-bae, vice minister of the Oceans Ministry. Some relatives of victims were opposed to this idea. “I do not think cutting into the cabin section may be the fastest way to get to the area,” said Kwon Oh-bok, 61, brother to Kwon Jae-geun, 53, and uncle to his 7-year-old son, Hyukkyoo — passengers of the Sewol still missing. “I think it may be faster to find a route into the cabin section without trying to cut anything from the outside.”


Nati on a l News

China shuts down all packaged tours to Korea

18 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

C

hina’s government ordered travel agencies to stop selling tour packages to Korea starting March 15 in the latest retaliation against the deployment of a U.S.-operated anti-missile system in Korea. Under the ban, all travel agencies in China are barred from selling travel packages to Korea, both group and individual, from March 15, a move certain to harm the local tourism industry. It was reported that the China National Tourist Office summoned executives of travel agencies to a meeting at which the government instructed them to halt all tour packages to Korea to rebuff Seoul’s decision last July to deploy the Terminal High Altitude Area Defense (Thaad) anti-missile system. One travel agency employee was quoted by the JoongAng Ilbo saying the authorities issued a “strict guideline” to the agencies. Chinese can still travel to Korea by booking tickets directly and traveling on their own without the help of agencies. Last October, Beijing ordered local agencies to reduce the number of group tours to Korea by 20 percent over the next six months. Of 17.2 million foreigners who traveled to Korea last year, nearly half, or 8.04 million, were from China, according to government data. They are an important source of revenue for hotels, restaurants, entertainment and the duty-free industry. Despite October’s crackdown, the number of Chinese tourists in Korea in January and February actually increased by about 10 percent compared to the same period last year. Many Chinese bought individual tour packages from travel agencies instead of group tours to circumvent the restriction. It remains to be seen whether Chinese tourists interested in visiting Korea will buy tickets directly to get around the ban. A drop in the number of travelers from China appears inevitable until Beijing lifts the measure.

Beijing has been ratcheting up pressure on the South Korean government to drop its plan for the Thaad system, which both Seoul and Washington say is needed to defend against nuclear and missile threats from the Kim Jongun regime in Pyongyang. China believes the anti-missile system, to be located in Seongju County, North Gyeongsang, is intended by Washington to monitor its airspace using its powerful X-Band radar system, a suspicion refuted by the U.S. Beijing’s latest pushback came after reports surfaced that the Defense Ministry in Seoul is pushing to compete the Thaad deployment by July instead of by the end of this year, as previously anticipated. The Foreign Affairs Ministry in Seoul also announced that it kicked off negotiations with Washington to conclude terms of the Thaad deployment, which will deal with the provision of land in Seongju for the missile battery, among other issues. Responding to the travel ban, acting president Hwang Kyo-ahn made clear that

Seoul’s decision to accept the Thaad system remained firm despite pressure from Beijing. “The deployment of the Thaad system is what we must have in order to protect the lives of the people and national security against North Korea’s nuclear and missile threats. I once again assure you that it is not aiming to target a third country,” said Hwang in reference to China during a meeting with leaders of the governing Liberty Korea Party (LKP). Hwang went on to say that the government would keep monitoring Beijing’s punitive moves and strengthen communication with China. He added the government would come up with policies to contain the damage, without elaborating. Political parties condemned the travel ban. “China’s retaliation against Thaad is childish and arrogant as well as an abuse of power,” snapped Chairman Chung Woo-taik of the LKP. Chung pointed out that Beijing opposes the Thaad system but doesn’t curb Pyongyang’s nuclear and missile programs.

A notice instructing Chinese tourists how to fill in disembarkation cards is posted in the arrival hall of Incheon International Airport. China’s government ordered travel agencies to stop selling packaged tours to Korea starting March 15 as retaliation for the deployment of a U.S. anti-missile system in Korea. [YONHAP]


The opposition Democratic Party Chairwoman Choo Mi-ae also expressed concerns over the ban, saying it was “going over the line.” “There have been DDoS (denial of service) attacks, boycott campaigns and export bans against South Korean companies doing business in China. Some Chinese media even bring up the possibility of attacking South Korean territory (where Thaad will be set up),” said Choo. Since the signing of the Thaad agreement in July, China has rolled out a series of retaliatory moves against Korea, including banning of concerts or appearances by Korean celebrities on television shows and tightening of its visa regulations for South Koreans. Recent retaliations targeted Lotte Group, Korea’s fifth-largest conglomerate, after it signed a contract to transfer a golf course in Seongju County to the Korean government, which will be the site for Thaad. Chinese customs agents recently blocked a shipment of Lotte candy from entering the country. About 300 boxes, totaling 600 kilograms (1,300 pounds) of Lotte Confectionery’s yogurt-flavored candy were confiscated by Chinese quarantine officials in the northeastern city of Qingdao, industry sources said. Also, Lotte Duty Free’s site was down for about three hours after a denial of service, or DDoS, attack that was traced to an IP address in China. While China accelerates pressure on the South, signs of rapport between China and North Korea were seen in a Beijing meeting between Chinese Foreign Minister Wang Yi and North’s Vice Foreign Minister Ri Kil-song. The top Chinese diplomat reportedly said it was China’s position that the two Communist allies should nurture bilateral ties.

T

he Ministry of Justice has suspended the issuance and extension of one-year E-2 language teaching visas for Chinese lecturers staffing Confucius Institutes at universities. The 23 Confucius Institutes countrywide are in disarray and Chinese language students are experiencing difficulty finding opportunities to study. The first Confucius Institute in the world was established in Korea in November 2004. As of 2014, there were 23 operating in Korea with over 480 worldwide. The Confucius Institute is a non-profit educational organization founded by the Chinese government to promote Chinese language and culture. Five prospective Chinese language lecturers at the South Jeolla Confucius Institute were unable to receive their visas while another was denied an extension. With one individual leaving the country on March 31, this leaves only four of the intended 10. Woosung University cut five classes when six of their lecturers were unable to enter the country. Yonsei University resorted to procuring staff from cram schools to fulfill student demand, hiring them at a higher rate. Teachers were dispatched to Korea from partner schools in China. There are now over 200 Chinese lecturers teaching in the 23 institutes in the country with a total of 6,000 prospective students in a given semester. The classes are popular with students because the course fees of 119,000 won ($106) are half the cost of cram schools. Confucius Institutes also provide an opportunity for foreign language study at sister schools in China, tuition-free, to qualifying students for six months to a year. When educational institutes such as foreign language cram schools hire foreign language lecturers, they receive approval for the E-2 visas by submitting a business license, cram school certificate and employment contract. Unlike lecturers at private cram schools, those in Confucius Institutes receive a salary from the Chinese government and the em-

ployment contract is also arranged with Chinese universities. “The system for the employment contract as well as payment of salaries does not meet the criteria of the E-2 visa,” the Justice Ministry announced, explaining that this type of employment is considered illegal because salaries are paid from China. This is the first time in 10 years the matter has come up, but the intent now is to demonstrate violations will no longer be ignored. The Justice Ministry has said enforcement is unrelated to China’s retaliation for Korea’s decision to deploy the U.S. Terminal High Altitude Area Defense (Thaad) antimissile system. “We informed individual universities and Confucius Institutes,” said an official at the Justice Ministry, “that we will have regular issuance of E-2 visas provided employment contracts are signed and salaries are paid [by them].” However, universities and Confucius Institutes say hastily reforming the structure of employment is difficult as Chinese universities are regulated by the Chinese government. Chinese universities must receive approval from China’s education ministry and Chinese universities shoulder the burden of national health insurance, unemployment insurance, national pensions and occupational health and safety insurance. Universities are now concerned about a protracted teacher drought. Requesting the cooperation of Chinese authorities is also difficult due to the installation of the Thaad system. The Chinese government could pay the salaries to Korean universities, but the Chinese government holds the position that direct payment is a rule. Universities are requesting a temporary grace period. “Laws and rules are important,” said Kim Hyun-cheol, the head of the Yonsei University Confucius Institute, “but both countries’ governments must minimize damage by making concessions.” He added, “If the visa issue is not resolved, operating Confucius Institutes across the country will be difficult up until the end of the year.”

19 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

Teachers at Confucius Institutes lose E-2 visas


C O MMU NI TY

This is What y

c a r c o em D Looks Like

An American’s reflection on Independence Day in Korea Story and Photos by Seth Martin

20 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

I

t was Independence Day, 3.1, the main celebration in Korea of the struggle against Japanese colonization. My wife and I spent the morning near the Japanese Embassy. We listened to survivors of the Japanese military’s forced sexual slavery—now grandmothers—share their thoughts with hundreds of respectful Koreans, many of whom were college students or younger. The grandmothers railed against impeached president Park Geun-hye, as well as the current state of ROK-Japan relations. A young Japanese woman also spoke, saying she felt so much shame at how Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe and many Japanese people, including her own friends, continue to talk about the survivor grandmothers in derogatory and repulsive ways, rather than admit to Japan's atrocities toward Korean women during the occupation and WWII. Then we walked across the street to Gwanghwamun Square, where many celebrations and events were being held for 3.1. But nearly everything was drowned out by the noise and overbearing, violent presence of Park’s supporters: the rightwing patriots. Law enforcement was everywhere. Riot gear. Chunks of the city walled off by endless bumper-to-bumper rows of police buses. The right-wing crowd out in full force to show their support for the impeached president and to counter the candlelight demonstrations against her, set to gather later in the evening. The dictator's daughter support group had it all today. People draped in flags. Grandfathers in uniforms. Even Jesus was there, covered in blood and lugging around a giant cross. And there was a huge American flag in the middle of it all. Speakers bragged that because they had so many older war vets in their group they could fight the candlelight protesters during evening's rally. Many "hallelujahs" were screamed alongside passionate rants about Christianity and Korean freedom, with over-the-loudspeaker prayers to Jesus, and vitriolic tirades against all the "reds" (“communists” aka candlelight protesters) who they claimed are destroying this country. Their screaming from multiple platforms downtown all but smothered the traditional ceremonies in the square that, as best I could tell, were meant to be non-partisan.


21 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

[Pro-Park] speakers bragged that because they had so many older war vets in their group they could fight the candlelight protesters during evening's rally. Many "hallelujahs" were screamed alongside passionate rants about Christianity and Korean freedom, with over-the-loudspeaker prayers to Jesus, and vitriolic tirades against all the "reds" (candlelight protesters) who are “destroying this country.�


C O MMU NI TY 22 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

Ironically, on several occasions, a rightwing speaker led angry chants against the police because they were blocking a lot of the downtown square partly to avoid right-left confrontations. I say ‘ironically’ because this group is usually fervently pro-police to the point of fanaticism. But when their beloved forces took measures to block their non-veiled desires to cause a scene—maybe even start a riot—with the candlelight protesters, Sewol victims’ surviving family members, or any other group deemed part of the "red" problem—the patriots became irate. I witnessed numerous instances of police turning belligerent, elderly right-wing folk away from sections of the square already given to traditional performances and other demonstrators—particularly the surviving family members and friends of the Sewol ferry victims. One energetic, constantly swearing older man paced back and forth with a large, rolled up American flag in his hands, and seemed excited to start something in the candlelight protester's section. Despite the pro-Park crowd's claims that the candlelight protests—which now have included many millions of people with no violent episodes—are full of violent communists, virtually all of the violence so far has been committed by the right-wingers: such as punching a candlelight demonstrator and beating up a camera man. Speakers have even frothed up their crowds by advocating death to protesters in the name of patriotism and fighting communism. It was a surreal scene. I couldn't stop thinking about how before the currently impeached president's father, Park Chung-hee, became a dictator of the southern half of a newly divided Korea, he was a fervent lieutenant for the Japanese military who allegedly helped suppress Korean freedom fighters. Yet, among the right-wing crowd he is revered as a hero for almost single-handedly lifting Korea out of poverty and into the hightech industrial "first world." Labor unions and human rights groups, however, share a much less glorious narrative of the president’s father and his regime, and have plenty of woeful stories and prison numbers connected to torture survivors to make their case. Recently, the Park Geun-hye administration has tried to alter or revise the standard history textbooks for high schools across the nation—particularly in regards to the legacy of the impeached president's father. The current administration claims many historians of modern Korea have portrayed her father's legacy with an overly critical and leftist style that isn't helpful to national progress and unity. Whether it's true or not doesn't seem to be of top importance to Park. And her attempts to censor history textbooks, while possibly

During the great resistance that 3.1 comseen as brave by her most strident supporters, memorates, there was hopeful talk of the have been vigorously protested and mocked claims made by US president Woodrow by angry union workers and students, who Wilson's 14 Points—a strategy for post-WWI see it as one more negative and dictatorial peace and the rebuilding of nations devastatexample of leadership in "Hell Joseon"—an ed by war. Wilson’s outline seems to directly increasingly busy and meaningless Korea support Korean freedom from Japanese colwith little hope of a happy future for younger onization. generations. That's not how it worked though. Korean And so it was a complex and tense enresistance towards colonization continued vironment in Gwanghwamun. Democmostly un-helped by the West racy manifested through (excepting sympathetic groups public demonstrations. Demonsuch as missionaries) until strations everywhere. All the while, the end of WW2, as the ashes There were demonstrations in the center of of Hiroshima and Nagasaki against the US government— it all, ceremonies smoldered and the US began its mainly for pushing to install the were held and new self-appointed role as libnew THAAD missile system songs were erator-turned-governor of the against the protests of thoushared to southern half of a newly dividsands and the condemnation of commemorate ed Korean nation. The formerChina, Russia, and North Kothe struggles of ly Japanese-run government rea; and for allegedly silencing brave Koreans buildings then flew American the "former comfort women" who mobilized flags over a US military-run in order to speed up and simas one people transition government. plify South Korean-Japanese to resist The US on one side, Russia relationships in an attempt to a brutal Japanese and China on the other. Japan improve US geopolitical control occupation. in shambles. And Koreans in over Asia. Pungmul drums And there were demonrang out. Children the middle of it all, many of them starving, trying on both strations against the Japanese and elders in hanboks sang sides, hoping to finally realize government—for their dishonest traditional songs, postcolonial freedom and unidealings with the grandmothers surrounded by fication, with or without the and their continued unwillingpolice buses and support of the opposed allies in ness to affirm accurate history skyscrapers. It the north or south. about the Japanese military's seemed as though Then the Korean War role in creating and perpetuatfolks from most roared to life. And seven decing a system of sexual slavery or all sides of the ades later, the Korean Peninsuin occupied Korea that still indemonstrations la is still divided, with nuclear fluences both countries’ policies enjoyed it - at threats, arms deals, and the and cultures today. least in passing. possibility of a massive war And of course there were between several superpowers, massive and diverse acts of deagain on Korean soil, always in fiance against the current scanthe news. The reality of all of these historical dal-ridden Korean administration. traumas were on full display in GwanghwaThen there was the loudest minority: the mun. right wing factions equating dissent as comIt is staggering to process the history and munism, and patriotism as unwavering supcontemporary reality of Korea, and the bravport for the impeached president; celebrating ery of the Korean people trying to better their the Christian roots of Korea; and begging God lives and keep the hope of unity and peace to save their country (make it great again!). All alive in the face of such overwhelming sadwith emphatic, strident flag waving—Ameriness, tension, and a brutal history that contincan and Korean flags together—and near-hysues to play such a massive role on both sides terical support for The US in general and, for of the DMZ. many, Trump in particular. I left Gwanghwamun Square overAll the while, in the center of it all, cerewhelmed and deeply inspired by what I exmonies were held and songs were shared to perienced and saw. So much history, so much commemorate the struggles of brave Koreans tension, so many issues, so much at stake. who mobilized as one people to resist a brutal And so many disagreeing voices loudly deJapanese occupation. Pungmul drums rang manding change, in different ways. All in out. Children and elders in hanboks sang trathe same downtown square at the same time. ditional songs, surrounded by police buses And despite the extremely different futures and skyscrapers. It seemed as though folks these groups were demanding, everything from most or all sides of the demonstrations felt somehow unified in a deeper and older enjoyed it—at least in passing.


23 www.groovekorea.com April 2017


C O MMU NI TY 24 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

identity: the memory of sacrifice and of lives given in the struggle for independence from colonial rule. The conviction that this struggle continues today and is central to the identity of being Korean. What I came away with, as a foreigner, was not some tourist experience, or an exotic carnival of political expression. What I experienced in Gwanghwamun on 3.1 was living, thriving democracy in action. The kind of democratic expression we brag about possessing back home and claim to be central to our identities as Americans. Yet I'm not sure I've ever seen such a vibrant and public display of it before. It was breathtaking. And what am I doing here? As an American, a white-skinned English speaking male with a Christian heritage, that mostly receives excessively kind and gracious receptions from everyone I meet—whether I speak in English or butchered Korean—what kind of "freedom" do I embody? Whose side am I on? And with whom am I standing in solidarity? What do I really know about any of this complicated reality? Is my presence helping or hindering the complex and painful struggle for freedom and unity in Korea? All I know is that I am humbled by the kindness of my Korean friends. And I am grateful to be here now, and to see what's happening with my own eyes. I understand that I have little to say, and a lot more listening to do.

Seth Martin is a topical songwriter and folksinger from the rural and mountainous Pacific Northwest (US). When not touring in the States, he spends most of his time in Korea. A frequent performer in Korean and foreigner roots/indie circles, Martin hosts the “World Folk Music Night” at Chewhadang Cafe in Seoul, which features traditional Korean music as well as indie and folk acts from all over the world. You can hear his music at sethmartinandthemenders.bandcamp.com


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s ' G t o uide i D I n a to

C O MMU NI TY

the Park Geun-hye Scandal The JoongAng Daily summarizes this country’s biggest news story for those of us on the outside Story by Rob Shelley Photos courtesy of JoongAng Daily

W

hat's this story all about? Park Geun-hye was elected in December 2012 as the first female president of Korea. She started her term in February 2013 (and Korea has a single, five year [presidential term]). She became the first president who couldn't finish the term because of the impeachment. There are other presidents who couldn't finish their term, but she was the first to be removed by the Constitutional Court. The reasons were constitutional violations she made by allowing her secret friend [Choi Soon-sil] to interfere in No. 2

Your window to Korea

SATURDAY-SUNDAY, DECEMBER 10-11, 2016 (No. 4,946)

JTBC refutes rumors of how it got Choi’s tablet PAGE 2

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state affairs [and] to abuse the presidential power for private gains.

Park Geun-hye is the daughter of Park Chunghee. What was his legacy and how then did Park Geun-hye enter the national stage? Park Chung-hee was an authoritarian military leader who gained power through a military coup. He is still respected by many conservatives and [the] elderly population, in particular because, during his term, the country actually developed tremendously and he's contributed to the industrialization and modernization of Korea. Many people are sentimental about, even though politically he is considered a dictator Musicians lend support because of constitutionto anti-Park protesters al amendments that he pushed forward to lengthen his term. And, as we all know, he was assassinated. That's how his presidency was ended. After the assassination, Park Geun-hye lived a private life but [then] started a political career [many years later] by running as a lawmaker [for the seat in] Daegu, a very Conservative town, and she easily won. Since then, she served in what now is turned into the Liberty Korea Party, a conservative party. And her political life was successful. She was continuously winning elections and she chaired [the Saenuri] party and saved it from a corruption scandal. She also made a presidential bid in 2007 but lost in the party primary. She was still strong and had another bid and finally won the party KOREAJOONGANGDAILY.COM

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PEOPLE

Park impeached

JOINT PRESS CORPS

After easy passage of motion, prime minister takes president’s duties BY SER MYO-JA

The National Assembly impeached President Park Geun-hye Friday afternoon, suspending a second-generation Korean president brought low by a bizarre scandal over the influence she gave a friend in state affairs. Lawmakers approved the impeachment motion 234-56 in a secret ballot vote. •Celebrations break out across the nation. Page 2. •Constitutional Court has 180 days to decide final fate. Page 2.

Of the 300 members of the National Assembly, 299 lawmakers cast votes and 234 supported the impeachment, 56 opposed it, while two abstained. Seven votes were invalid. Saenuri Rep. Choi Kyung-hwan did not participate in the voting. The motion to oust the president was sponsored by 171 lawmakers from three opposition parties and independents, and it passed with hefty support from representatives belonging to Park’s own ruling Saenuri Party. The overwhelming support for the motion was an indication that many ruling party lawmakers — even the socalled Park loyalists — turned against

the president. If all 172 opposition and independent lawmakers are assumed to have supported the motion, 62 out of the 128 Saenuri lawmakers also voted for it. “I am truly regretful that the country has to go through this enormous turmoil amid the security and economic hardships due to my lack of virtue and carelessness,� Park said at a meeting with the cabinet following her impeachment. She summoned the prime minister and ministers to the Blue House following the vote. “I take the voices of the National Assembly and the people seriously and I sincerely hope that the current confusion will conclude smoothly,� Park said. “I will respond calmly to the Constitutional Court’s trial and the independent counsel’s investigation, following the procedures defined by the Constitution and laws.� Park urged the people to trust and rely on public servants working diligently and faithfully. She requested the prime minister and the rest of her cabinet to do their best to minimize the administrative vacuum. Park’s presidential powers were suspended immediately after the impeachment motion was delivered to the Blue House. Prime Minister Hwang Kyo-ahn became acting president and will oversee state affairs as the Constitutional Court deliberates the legitimacy of the impeachment. The court has 180 days to decide whether to remove Park permanently. Six of its nine judges have to confirm the legislature’s action.

Park was impeached over alleged violations of the Constitution and criminal laws. The opposition Minjoo Party of Korea, the People’s Party and the Justice Party as well as independent lawmakers who sponsored the motion said Park committed a grave violation of the Constitution by allowing her secret inner circle, including longtime friend Choi Soon-sil, to interfere in state affairs. The motion also accused Park of failing to properly respond to the sinking of the Sewol ferry in April 2014, in which 304 passengers died after a delayed government response. The motion said Park violated Article 10 of the Constitution, which demands she protect the lives of citizens. Last month, prosecutors indicted Choi on charges of abusing her ties with the president to influence state affairs and coerce conglomerates to donate about 80 billion won ($69 million) to two foundations she controlled. They accused the president of being a co-conspirator in those crimes. Prosecutors could not press charges against Park because of her presidential immunity from criminal indictment. She can be indicted after she leaves the presidency. Based on the indictments, the three opposition parties laid out a wide range of alleged constitutional and criminal violations committed by Park as grounds for impeachment. Park became the second Korean president to be impeached by the National Assembly. In 2004, the legislature voted to im-

head of the state and the leader of the administration and violated the Constitution and laws in the line of performing her duty,� he said. “From the perspective of protecting the Constitution, this is a grave, unacceptable violation. She fundamentally abandoned the people’s confidence in the president.� The voting began at 3:24 p.m. and ended at 3:53 p.m. Speaker Chung announced the outcome of the vote at 4:09 p.m. “The National Assembly, today, passed the motion to impeach President Park Geun-hye,� he said, adding that the tragedy of presidential impeachment should never have to be repeated. Following the passage, Prime Minister Hwang telephoned Defense Minister Han Min-koo to increase military readiness against a possible North Korean provocation. Han issued the order and summoned a meeting of the major commanders from around the country. It remains to be seen if the impeachment will end weeks of paralysis in government. Some opposition politicians are demanding not only Park’s immediate resignation but also the resignation of Prime Minister Hwang. While there is no specific law governing the scope of authority of the acting president, the presidential impeachment in 2004 is expected to serve as a precedent. After Roh was impeached, Prime Minister Goh Kun served as acting president but he exercised power in a limited way. Presidential powers include the

peach President Roh Moo-hyun for alleged breach of political neutrality — Roh asked voters to support his party — but the Constitutional Court overturned the decision two months later. Park is the daughter of the late Park Chung Hee, the military strongman who took power in a coup in 1961 and governed Korea until his assassination in 1979. If the Constitutional Court decides to uphold the impeachment, Park will become the first Korean president to be dismissed before the end of her term. A presidential election for a successor will take place in two months. The ruling party, which has taken a large share of blame for the crisis, vowed that it will completely reform itself. “With a determination that one who has tied a knot must untie it,� said Rep. Kim Sung-won, spokesman of the Saenuri Party, “we will turn over a new leaf to meet the people’s expectations.� The main opposition Minjoo Party of Korea said the impeachment was a victory for the people. “Impeachment is the new beginning,� Rep. Yoon Kwan-seok, spokesman of the Minjoo Party, said. “We will make sure that state affairs will be normalized.� The National Assembly opened a plenary session at 3:02 p.m. on Friday, and Speaker Chung Sye-kyun tabled the impeachment motion immediately. Rep. Kim Kwan-young, deputy floor leader of the People’s Party, took the stand and explained the intention of the motion to lawmakers. “President Park has neglected her duty as the

Economy braces for impact of power vacuum BY PARK EUN-JEE, CHOI HYUNG-JO AND SHIM SAE-ROM

The impeachment of President Park Geun-hye sent the financial authorities scrambling to contain the economic impact and restore order Friday. The markets barely moved because the vote was announced after closing. Analysts had differing views on how the impeachment will impact the country’s economy. The government’s major financial players — the Ministry of Strategy and Finance, the Bank of Korea and the Financial Services Commission — held emergency meetings after the announcement and launched 24-hour market monitoring programs. Yim Jong-yong, head of the Financial Services Commission (FSC), said in his meeting that the regulatory agency will be particularly focused on expanding lending by state run banks to small and medium sized companies and low-income earners and stabilization of the bond markets affected by rising interest rates. “When the economy faces hardships, small companies and people

with low incomes become the hardest hit,� Yim said. To discuss specific measures to expand lending, the regulator will hold a meeting with state-backed banks, including the Korea Development Bank and Industrial Bank of Korea on Sunday. The FSC will call a series of meetings by industry sectors — banking, insurance and securities — on Monday and the FSC head will meet the executives of the financial institutions to discuss future direction. The Bank of Korea vowed to monitor foreign exchange markets. If history is any guide, the impeachment of president Roh Moohyun in 2004 brought disorder to the markets in the short run but didn’t deal a blow to annual economic growth. After Roh’s impeachment on March 12, 2004, the Kospi fell 21.13 points, or 2.43 percent, to 848.80 compared to the previous trading day, after slumping over five percent during the day. The Korean won went from 1169.0 to 1180.8 to the dollar in just one day, a 1.01 percent rise.

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On Friday, the Kospi edged down 0.31 percent while the won closed at 1,165.9, up 7.4 won. In 2004, the Constitutional Court rejected Roh’s impeachment and he returned to power on May 14, after 63 days. His impeachment had no impact on Korea’s credit rating. S&P’s sovereign credit rating for Korea remained fixed from 2002 to 2005, when it went from A- to A. Moody’s, whose credit rating for Korea stayed at A3 from March 2002 to July 2007, changed its outlook on the nation from “negative� in 2003 to “stable� in June 2004. Despite the modest impact in the past, some analysts believe that things are different now — and not in a good way. The critical point is that the economic chief doesn’t have as strong a standing as Lee Hun-jai, the finance minister who is credited with stabilizing the market in the aftermath of the 2004 impeachment motion. President Park Geun-hye proposed to replace Yoo Il-ho, minister of strategy and finance, with Yim Jong-yong, the FSC head, in the middle of the po-

KOSPI

2,024.69 (-6.38)

3-year treasury

1.76 (+0.02)

KOSDAQ

Then and now Unit: %

Roh Moo-hyun’s impeachment motion (March 12, 2004)

litical scandal involving her confidante Choi Soon-sil. With the impeachment motion passed, it is unlikely that Yim will replace Yoo, but analysts say that the incumbent minister already lost leadership gravitas. “The conditions right now are much more chaotic and Korea is without an economic command center,� said Kim Jung-sik, professor of economics at Yonsei University. “The best solution is to alleviate political uncertainties. But as a secondary measure, we need the finance minister to step up to the plate and take control. “The Korea Development Institute set its economic growth projection for the fourth quarter to zero in comparison to the previous period without taking political turbulence into consideration,� he continued. “And with the ongoing political turmoil, consumption will shrink and affect the market further.� But others think that the risks are already priced into the markets. “From my perspective, the impact of impeachment motion has been al-

STOCK, BOND INDEXES, OIL & GOLD

Park Geun-hye’s impeachment motion (Dec. 9, 2016)

2003

2004

2005

2015

2.9 Unemployment rate 3.6 Consumer price growth rate 3.5 Export growth rate 19.3 National debt ratio to GDP 196

4.9 3.7 3.6 31.0 22.4

3.9 2.8 2.8 12.0 26.0

2.6 3.6 0.7 -8.0 35.7

Economic growth rate

A-

National credit rating

2016

2017

2.6 3.8 1.0 -6.3 39.3

2.4 3.9 1.3 2.7 40.4

(Projection) (Projection)

AA

Market condition

t%PNFTUJDNBSLFUJOSFDPWFSZQIBTF after 2003 credit card crisis t'SFFUSBEFagreement, including ,PSFB$IJMF'5" FYQBOEJOH t&DPOPNJFTPGEFWFMPQFEDPVOUSJFT such as the United States and Japan JOSFDPWFSZQIBTF$IJOFTFBOE*OEJBO economics in rapid expansion

t%PNFTUJDFDPOPNJDHSPXUISBUF around 2 percent for three DPOTFDVUJWFZFBST t$PODFSOTPWFS64QPTTJCMZHFUUJOH more protectionist in trade under 5SVNQBENJOJTUSBUJPO t$IJOFTFFDPOPNJDHSPXUITMPXJOH %FWFMPQFEFDPOPNJDTTVDIBTUIPTF in Europe continue to be weak

1SPKFDUJPOTCBTFEPOB,PSFB%FWFMPQNFOU*OTUJUVUFSFQPSU *National credit rating based on S&P data on the day on which the impeachment motion was passed

4PVSDF.JOJTUSZPG4USBUFHZBOE'JOBODF 4UBUJTUJDT,PSFB #BOLPG,PSFB ,PSFB%FWFMPQNFOU*OTUJUVUF 41

ready been reflected in the market,� said Kim Jae-hong, head of research at Shinyoung Securities said. “It would have been a bigger problem if it didn’t pass.� When asked about the long term impact that motion would have, including on Koreans’ spending, Kim said, “Psychologically, it will have some negative effect, but if you look at

CURRENCIES 594.35 (+9.73)

10-year treasury 2.21 (+0.04)

right to command the nation’s armed forces, diplomatic power, veto power and authority to appoint and fire public servants. The president also has the right to declare martial law and the right to issue pardons. Experts say that Hwang, as acting president, must refrain from exercising presidential powers that could have far-reaching consequences. “Appointing a constitutional court chief justice or a Supreme Court justice, whose tenures are six years, or signing a treaty with another country must not be done by the acting president,� said Lee Jong-soo, a public administration professor of Yonsei University. Hwang, however, is expected to perform presidential duties that are crucial for national security and operate the administration. He will host cabinet meetings, chair the National Security Council and perform diplomatic activities as acting head of the state, such as receiving foreign dignitaries. While her powers are suspended, Park will maintain her title as president. She will also receive security protection and treatment as the head of state. The Blue House secretariat will also be maintained, but will assist the acting president. Park will be allowed to live in her residence inside the Blue House compound during the Constitutional Court’s deliberation on the impeachment. She will also receive the presidential salary for the time being, but not special operations expenses. ser.myoja@joongang.co.kr

OIL ($ / barrel) *Dubai based on Thursday

U.S. Dollar

1,165.90 (+7.40)

EURO

JAPAN YEN

1,018.88 (-1.87)

CHINA YUAN 168.50 (+0.48)

1,237.89 (-9.70)

GOLD

(won / 3.75g)

the Korean economy, there are almost no positive expectations for it on the macro scale. There is no anticipation that economy will recover, which is already mirrored by the market.� Park Seung, governor of the Bank of Korea under the Roh administration, called for government officials to proceed with economic policies. park.eunjee@joongang.co.kr

50.30 (-0.05)

178,500 (-500)

SEOUL, KOREA

-5 / 4

C

26

10.12.2016 Korea JoongAng Daily

nomination and won the election [in 2012]. Long before the scandal broke open these last few months, Park's relationship with her "secret friend" was brought up during her failed primary bid in 2007, right? Yeah, that was going around for many many years but people didn't really bother with it. But in 2007, the primary was so fierce that the scandal became part of the campaign. Choi Tae-min is a pastor but more like a cult leader, and he was a spiritual mentor of Park Geun-hye ever since she was young. Particularly after her mother's assassination. Choi Tae-min reportedly worked as a policeman during the Japanese colonial period and became a Buddhist monk after Korea’s liberation. In the early 1970s, he established his own cult, Yeongsegyo, literally “Eternal Life,� by combining tenets of Buddhism, Christianity and Korea’s indigenous Confucian-shamanist movement, Cheondoism. He created the Korea Salvation Mission in April 1975. Park [Geun-hye] attended its masses in subsequent months. In 1976, Park became the president of the New Heart Volunteer Group, established by Choi. But Choi was questioned by Park’s father, President Park Chung-hee, in September 1977 based on the intelligence agency’s report of his corruption. Nevertheless, he managed to evade any criminal charges. Kim Jae-gyu, then head of the Korean Central Intelligence Agency who assassinated [Park Chung-hee] on Oct. 26, 1979, later wrote in his appeals that Park Chung-hee’s inaction against Choi was one of his motivations for assassinating him. The Choi family gained media attention in 1986 when Park’s little sister, Geun-ryeong, wrote a letter to the Blue House to expose their abuse of power over a nonprofit foundation for children’s welfare, a legacy of her late mother. “Choi is a crook and he should be sternly punished and my sister Park Geun-hye should be saved from his capture,� she wrote at the time. Choi Tae-min died in 1994, but rumors spread that his daughter continued to exert her cultbased influence over Park.


No. 02

Your window to Korea

FRIDAY, MARCH 10, 2017 (No. 5,020)

Pokémon partnerships boost retailers’ revenue PAGE 5

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PAGE 10

BUSINESS

If Park is removed, she may soon be facing a criminal prosecution BY SER MYO-JA

The Constitutional Court will make a ruling this morning to decide the fate of the presidency of Park Geun-hye and subsequent political future of the country. •President had many chances to avoid impeachment. Page 6. •Culture Ministry sets budget for blacklisted artists. Page 11.

The impeachment trial of President Park took 92 days to reach a verdict. The National Assembly passed a motion to remove her from office on Dec. 9, 2016 for 13 criminal and constitutional violations, including a charge that she allowed her secret inner circle to influence state affairs for their private gains. The final session to announce the ruling is scheduled to start at 11 a.m. today. The session will be aired live. Of the 104 seats in the gallery, 24 were allocated for public audience. The competition for the drawing was 1 to 795. Acting Chief Justice Lee Jung-mi or Justice Kang Il-won will read the verdict, including minority opinions, first. The conclusion on whether to remove Park or not will be announced last, and the decision will have effect immediately after the reading ends. Although the court started the trial with the full nine-member bench in December, Chief Justice Park Hanchul retired at the end of January. Since then, the trial was operated by the eight remaining justices. The justices, escorted by armed police forces, arrived at the Constitutional Court Thursday morning to continue their deliberation. The meeting is expected to be the justices’ final deliberations, and they are expected to exchange opinions on key issues concerning the legitimacy of the impeachment for one last time. Their voting to reach a verdict is expected to take place this morning,

What was the implication behind Park's association will the Chois? You know, there were some [unsubstantiated] rumors at the time that Park Geun-hye and Choi Tae-min were more than just mentor [and protege]. But other allegations of corruption were also raised. The scandal was more about how the Chois raised so much wealth and [Park's opponents] suspected that [the Chois] did it during the Park Chung-hee era. The slush funds of the Park family were [allegedly] used as seed money for the Chois' wealth. The independent counsel wanted to investigate it recently, but could not do so as they ran out of time. [There is a belief] that Choi Soon-sil and Park Geun-hye were one economic body.

PARK JONG-KEUN

In front of the Constitutional Court on Thursday, one anti-Park protester and one pro-Park supporter picket for their demand to remove or restore, respectively, President Park Geun-hye. The highest court will make the final ruling on the fate of Park at 11 a.m. today.

shortly before the announcement of the ruling. Under the law governing the court, it takes six out of the eight justices to vote to support the impeachment in order to end her presidency. If the court upholds the impeachment, Park’s presidency will be terminated, and she will become the first president in the history of Korea to be removed from the office through the impeachment process. If the court clears her, Park’s presidential powers will be restored immediately. Her term will end in February 2018 and the presidential election will take place in December 2017 as initially scheduled. President Park remained silent and stayed in her residence inside the Blue

like a cult leader, and he was a spiritual mentor of Park Geunhye ever since she was young. Particularly after her mother's assassination. Choi Soon-sil was Choi Tae-min's daughter. Park was particularly close to her and they remained friends for over 40 years. After this news scandal broke out, Park Geun-hye admitted that Choi Soon-sil was one of the closest people in her life and Park Geun-hye let Choi Soon-sil help her write speeches in the very early stages of her presidency.

I heard that, in retrospect, Park Geun-hye displayed some strange behaviour during her presidency. What kind of behaviour? Park Geun-hye was largely criticized from the beginning for not being very easy to communicate with, particularly because she didn't have one on one, face-to-face, meetings with ministers or secretaries. And people thought that was just how her style was. And the Blue House sometimes explained that the president didn't want to have too many contacts. Later it was revealed that, in many parts, she was relying on Choi instead of going through official channels. When the National Assembly impeached her they used the term 'secret inner-circle'. Things were done more in an unofficial way. [Furthermore], Rumors spread [about Choi Soon-sil’s interference] as it was pointed out that Park often used unusual expressions in her speeches, possibly influenced by Choi. “If you do not learn history properly, your soul will become abnormal,” Park said on Nov. 10,

rity protection will still be offered for up to 10 years. She will be barred from working in a public office for the next five years. She will also lose the presidential immunity from a criminal prosecution. It remains to be seen if Park will face a criminal investigation immediately after the court upholds the impeachment. The prosecution and the independent counsel had attempted to question her in the past, but failed. They had no means to compel her to cooperate due to her presidential immunity but Park, if the Constitutional Court approves the impeachment, will have no shield. The prosecution has reinstated its special investigation team earlier this

week, and it is inevitable that they will investigate Park as she was already named a co-conspirator in various corruption and abuse of power charges. A physical detention might be sought if she refuses to cooperate. It, however, is unclear if the prosecution will immediately go after her, because of the political sensitivity. If she is removed, the presidential election must take place within 60 days, indicating that the campaign will begin immediately. Investigating a former president — even if she is dismissed — will be burdensome, because the prosecutors’ previous attempt to investigate former President Roh Moo-hyun was a See PARK, Page 2.

Thaad row reaches realm of sports BY SONG JI-HOON, PARK LIN

China’s retaliation against South Korea for its acceptance of a U.S. antimissile shield has expanded into a new realm: sports. Seongju residents stage a sit-in protest at Thaad site. Page 2.

YONHAP

Tourists needed — The court of Gyeongbok Palace in central Seoul is tranquil on Thursday as fewer Chinese tourists come to Korea since Beijing’s ban on tour group in retaliation for the deployment of a U.S. antimissile defense system.

SEOUL, KOREA

House on Thursday. “She is calmly waiting for the ruling,” a presidential aide said. No special event or message was planned, but the presidential chief of staff, Han Gwang-ok, reportedly hosted a senior secretariat meeting to prepare for the situation after the ruling. If the court rules to remove her from office, Park’s presidential powers will be taken away immediately. Because she will be dishonorably dismissed from the post, no special treatments for a former president will be offered. She won’t be able to receive the pension, which would be about 12 million won ($10,350) a month, and deprived from other benefits such as three secretaries and one driver. Secu-

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An official from the Korea Football Association said Beijing recently rejected its proposal to fly South Korea’s national team to Changsha, Hunan Province, on a private plane for an upcoming match against China there. The two countries will face off in the final round of the 2018 World Cup regional qualifiers on March 23. It’s an unprecedented move in the sports industry to block the use of private transportation. China flew its players to Seoul last September in a private plane for an earlier match in the regional qualifiers. Korea won 3 to 2 at the Seoul World Cup Stadium. “The team will face off against Syria on March 28 in Seoul, so we wanted to keep them in shape for the game,” said Cho Jun-heon, PR chief of the Korea Football Association. “We proposed sending them and the Red Devils [Korea’s official football supporters club] by a private plane, but the Chinese government disapproved.”

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The team will fly commercial. Cho said the association decided to send only 50 Red Devils to root for the team in China — one-tenth of the 500 it initially planned — for reasons of safety. The Helong Stadium Changsha, where the game will be held, can hold up to 55,000 people. It’s a city wellknown for avid football fans, or “Qiumi,” as fans of Chinese football are called, the Korea Football Association said. That enthusiasm can turn to anger. When Korea defeated China 2 to 0 in May 2004 in the same Changsha stadium during an Olympic qualification match, a female Korean fan was injured by a metal bolt hurled by an enraged Chinese fan and had to seek medical attention. To be safe, according to Choi Jaeyoung, captain of the Red Devils, the supporters won’t be wearing anything that “stands out” on March 23, adding they’ll also refrain from rooting “too enthusiastically.” Yoon Ki-young, an agent who represents local FIFA players, is worried that Korean players might soon be entirely banned from playing for Chinese football squads. There currently are about 10 Korean players on Chinese teams. “I’ve heard bitter voices from the

Chinese football industry,” he said. “Chinese are asking themselves why they have to pay high salaries to coaches and athletes from a country that’s deploying Thaad,” the acronym for the Terminal High Altitude Area Defense system. lee.sungeun@joongang.co.kr

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Samsung’s plan to build U.S. factory gets closer BY KIM JEE-HEE

Samsung Electronics is in preliminary talks to build a new home appliances factory in the United States after being accused by the Donald Trump administration of “trade cheating.” Seo Byung-sam, head of Samsung’s home appliances division, said the company is “reviewing plans to set up a home appliances facility in the U.S.,” at a press briefing held for a new washing machine launch at its Seocho District office in southern Seoul Thursday. “Setting up a production base is part of a strategy in the manufacturing industry to enhance global competitiveness,” Seo said. “We are reviewing under a perspective there should be a production base in the U.S. in the longer term.” Seo, however, declined to disclose details of the ongoing discussion. “We will announce details at another time when talks are finalized,” he added. On the same day, the Wall Street Journal reported Samsung is in talks with at least five states including Alabama, Georgia, North Carolina, Ohio and South Carolina for the plan with an expected initial capital investment of at least $300 million. South Carolina was reported as the strongest contender. The facilities expansion may involve moving some oven production currently in Mexico to the U.S., the WSJ reported, and could generate about 500 jobs. A Samsung spokesperson declined to confirm details of the report other than mentioning the company has been reviewing plans from last fall. Korea’s home appliances giant has been directly pressured by the Trump administration to build a U.S. factory. Peter Navarro, Trump’s adviser and head of the new National Trade Council under the White House criticized Samsung for “country hopping” to evade antidumping tariffs on Tuesday. “Two of the South Korean competitors, LG and Samsung, simply move the production to another country each time Whirlpool wins antidumping cases against them,” Navarro said. “LG and Samsung have moved from China to Vietnam and Thailand. This is the kind of trade cheating that must be stopped.” Last month, Trump directly addressed Samsung in a tweet that read, “Thank you, @samsung!,We would love to have you!,” after the media reported that Samsung was expected to build a home appliances facility in the U.S. kim.jeehee@joongang.co.kr

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3.10.2017 Korea JoongAng Daily

2015. “If you wish earnestly, the entire universe will help you,” she said in her Children’s Day speech in 2015.

What is Park Geun-hye officially accused of doing wrong? The National Assembly laid many charges. The main part was that Park Geun-hye was accused of allowing her secret inner circle to influence state affairs which included Choi Soon-sil, who holds no government office. Another thing was her lack of action while the Sewol ferry was sinking on April 16th, 2014. It was a national disaster and more than 300 people, mostly students on field trips, died when the ferry sank. Questions were raised because the government was so slow in its effort to rescue the passengers. Park only showed up at the rescue center around 5pm. Many wondered what happened during the seven hours of the day from the time the ship was sinking [until she showed up]. Although the Constitutional Court did not hold Park responsible, it was one of the main reasons why the public protests continued to demand her resignation or impeachment. She was also accused of oppressing the press. I read about reports that there were protests in favor of Park Geun-hye and angry at her impeachment. Could you help explain what their thinking is? As in any healthy democracy, there are various opinions and she has her supporters. Her

supporters are normally conservative, elderly people who [remain] sentimental of the Park Chung-hee era. Many of them went through the Korean War and are extremely conservative. They feel pity for Park Geun-hye and they started holding rallies after the public protest demanding her resignation started. [The pro-Park rallies] started out small but grew and grew as the impeachment situation continued and the Constitutional Court trial went on. Even after she was removed, they support her and have daily rallies outside her residence in Samseong-dong. Particularly after Park left the Blue House, her statement was not about accepting the ruling; it was about how eventually the truth will come out. So that encouraged her supporters. As an estimate, what's the size difference between the pro-Park and anti-Park protesters? [The pro-Park camp] is smaller, but they are not that small. They actually grew and grew and grew. Also, the organizers of the rally always exaggerate their numbers because they want to demonstrate their power. It wasn't like a million but it was still considerably large. Actually, the police give an announcement [after each rally] about how many people were gathered. But the police actually stopped counting because there was so much controversy about the numbers. There's been reports of violence at these rallies between the two camps. What's happened? I think the [anti-Park] rallies were very peaceful with no clash between police and other protesters. But Park supporters' rally was more violent. Particularly after the Constitutional Court issued their ruling, Park's supporters got very angry and they beat up young people on the street as well as reporters and photographers. They got more violent after the ruling. Yet, I heard that some people on the proPark side died. Three people died. The police are still investigating [as of March 14th] why they died. But I remember one of them died because the loudspeaker, on top of the police truck to control the crowd, fell down and hit the protesters standing [underneath]. But the speaker fell because one of the Park supporters used a vehicle and ran into the police bus. They are still investigating. Who decides to impeach the president of Korea? Who got the ball rolling? Here's the process. The National Assembly impeaches the president. The impeachment takes two-thirds of the National Assembly.

27 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

Choi Soon-sil was Choi Tae-min's daughter. Park was particularly close to her and they remained friends for over 40 years. After this Constitutional Court to declare decision news scandal broke out, Park Geun-hye admitted that Choi Soon-sil was one of the closest people in her life and Park Geun-hye let Choi Soon-sil help her write speeches in the very early stages of her presidency. Park didn't deny the relationship with the Chois. She Choi Tae-min is admitted to the public that it a pastor but more was very special.


C O MMU NI TY

No. 1

This was the second impeachment. The first was Roh Moo-hyun [elected in 2003]. The process is that, after the National Assembly passes the impeachment motion, the trial starts at the Constitutional Court immediately. All presidential power is suspended and the Prime Minister becomes acting president. Park Geun-hye's power was suspended as soon as the National Assembly impeached her on Dec 9th, 2016. The trial began. The Constitutional Court has nine judges. Three are appointed by the National Assembly; three are appointed by the Supreme Court Chief Justice; and three are appointed by the president. The make-up represents the separation of powers. [The trial rules] on the legitimacy of the National Assembly's impeachment. In Roh Moohyun’s case, the court rejected [his impeachment] and his presidential power was restored. In this case, for Park's impeachment, they ruled that the decision to impeach her was legitimate. So Park became the first [Korean] president to be permanently removed through the impeachment process.

President’s ouster relieves economic uncertainty PAGE 3

28 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

What happens next with Park Geun-hye? The prosecution said they want to question her [on March 21st]. Even after the impeachment she was still the president, although suspended, so she had constitutional immunity from any criminal prosecution. Now she's no longer the president so there's no immunity; so she will be questioned by prosecutors about various abuses of power and bribery charges. In the grand scheme of things, how big was this news story? I think this was a bigger story than her being elected as the first female president. And probably as big as North Korea's first nuclear test, I guess. I think it really means a lot in the domestic history of Korea. Many people think that with the removal of Park Geun-hye it actually ends the era [defined by] Park Chung-hee. They think now it's a new era, new time, new generation, new everything.

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spective of protecting the Constitution. Because the negative impacts on the constitutional order of Park’s legal violations are extremely grave, the benefit of protecting the Constitution by dismissing her is overwhelmingly large.� Lee said Park deserves to be fired for having allowed Choi influence state affairs for private gain and her abuse of presidential power to assist Choi’s various corrupt actions. Lee said the charges were grave enough to remove Park from the presidency. “The president must exert her powers in respect to the Constitution and laws and her performance of her public duty must be transparently revealed for public evaluation,� Lee said. “But Park completely hid Choi’s intervention in state affairs. Whenever suspicions were raised, she denied and even criticized those raising the questions. Therefore, the checking and monitoring ability of constitutional institutions such as the National Assembly and media failed to function.� Lee pointed out that Park’s violations took place throughout her term. Park tried to cover up the truth and gagged the concerned people whenever the National Assembly and media raised questions, leading to the prosecution of top officials from the Blue House and administration, Lee said. “Park’s violations of the Constitution and laws infringed upon the principles of representative democracy and the spirit of rule of law,� Lee said. The court also condemned Park for having repeatedly lied to the public. “In her addresses to the nation, she promised to cooperate with investigations to lay bare the truth, but refused to be questioned by the prosecution and an independent counsel and rejected the Blue House raid attempts,� Lee said. Since the National Assembly passed a motion to remove her from office on Dec. 9, 2016 for 13 criminal and constitutional violations, the Constitutional Court spent 92 days on perhaps the most politically volatile case in the country’s history. The court rejected Friday Park’s lawyers’ argument that the legislature’s passage of the impeachment motion was flawed. The judges also rejected their argument that the trial was unlawful because of the vacant seat of Chief Justice Park Han-chul, who retired at the end of January. In opening remarks, Lee stressed that the judges tried their best for a fair and speedy trial. Lee said the court hoped the extreme split in public opinion over the impeachment will end with the ruling.

First president to be forced from office by impeachment process BY SER MYO-JA

Park Geun-hye became the first president in Korean history to be dismissed from office Friday, as the Constitutional Court made a historic ruling upholding the National Assembly’s impeachment of the scandalplagued leader. Political parties make call for a coming together. Page 2.

Acting Chief Justice Lee Jung-mi of the Constitutional Court announced that the verdict to remove Park was reached unanimously among the eight judges currently on the bench. Park issued no public message on Friday. Stripped of all presidential power, the disgraced leader remained in the Blue House because her private residence in Samseong-dong, southern Seoul, was not ready to receive her, according to an aide. Park, the eldest daughter of the late strongman Park Chung Hee, was elected the country’s first woman president in December 2012. She had 11 months left in her term. Park, who didn’t attend any of the hearings in her 92day-long trial, did not appear for the verdict either. She issued no public statement after the ruling. While the court rejected the National Assembly’s arguments that Park should be removed for abusing her power to unfairly dismiss certain public servants and to oppress press freedom and for failing to fulfill her duty to protect the lives of citizens when the Sewol ferry sank in 2014, the eight judges agreed that she should be removed for allowing a friend to interfere in state affairs for private gain. Lee also condemned Park for having repeatedly lied to the public by denying all suspicions involving Choi Seo-won, better known by her original name Choi Soon-sil, and concealing the truth. “The remarks and behavior of Park regarding the allegations that led to the impeachment reveals that she does not have any will to protect the Constitution to prevent the recurrence of her legal violations,� Lee said. “She betrayed the people’s trust and that is a grave violation from the per-

Park Geun-hye concludes a statement on the scandal that ultimately led to her impeachment and removal in the Blue House on Nov. 29, 2016.

The court also announced supplementary opinions regarding Park’s alleged nonfeasance during the Sewol ferry’s sinking, in which 304 passengers died on April 16, 2014 due to a weak government rescue operation. Although the judges agreed that her nonfeasance during the tragedy could not be used as grounds for dismissal, Judges Kim Yi-su and Lee Jin-sung said Park did fail her constitutional duty to faithfully serve as the president and a public servant. Judge Ahn Chang-ho also gave the opinion that the impeachment trial was not an ideological contest, but a matter of protecting the constitutional order, and dismissal was necessary to end bad political customs. The ruling to remove Park from office is final and irreversible. The Constitutional Court earlier said the impeachment trial is a single-trial system, and there will be no appeal or retrial. A presidential by-election will take place within 60 days. The campaign will start immediately. Park’s presidency was terminated immediately after Lee finished reading the verdict. Presidential immunity, which has shielded her from criminal prosecution, also ended. After a special investigation last year, prosecutors concluded that Park was a co-conspirator in multiple alleged incidents of corruption and abuse of power. An additional investigation by the independent counsel also identified her as a bribery suspect. It remains to be seen if the prosecution will immediately go after her because of the political sensitivity of such an action. Park became the fifth president in Korean history to leave the presidential office before their term ended. Korea’s first four presidents failed to complete terms for various reasons. Syngman Rhee, the first president of the country, resigned in April 1960 after it was revealed that his election victory for the fourth term was rigged. Yun Posun, elected president in August 1960, was forced to step down in 1962 in the aftermath of the May 16, 1961 coup by Park Chung Hee, the father of Park Geun-hye. Park Chung Hee’s 18-year- presidency ended with his assassination in 1979. Choi Kyu-hah was elected president in December 1979, but was forced to resign in 1980 as a result of a military coup by Chun Doo Hwan on Dec. 12, 1979. The five-year, single-term presidency began with Roh Tae-woo in 1988. All five presidents elected under the system completed their terms except for Park. ser.myoja@joongang.co.kr

Parallel rallies hit the streets, 2 protesters die BY HAN YOUNG-IK, YUN JUNG-MIN, LEE HYUN AND YUN JAE-YEONG

What happens next with the presidency? By law, the presidential election has to take place within 60 days from the Constitutional Court ruling. The acting president [Hwang Kyo-ahn] announced that the new election will take place on May 9th. The campaign will begin immediately, so we're in the election period now. It's a by-election so there will be no transition period. The new president will start right away.

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Celebrities mark historic decision on social media

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Park removed unanimously

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For the National Assembly to impeach Park, I assume that her own Saenuri Party refused to support her? Many of the Saenuri Party didn't support her. Actually, there was also a political fallout where the Saenuri Party was broken between Park supporters and other conservatives. They split formally [into two factions] between the Bareun Party and the Liberty Korea Party.

Your window to Korea

SATURDAY-SUNDAY, MARCH 11-12, 2017 (No. 5,021)

Protesters calling for an end to the Park Geun-hye presidency celebrated Friday afternoon. It was a long-awaited climax to a movement that has drawn crowds every Saturday evening to downtown Seoul, braving subzero temperatures and holding aloft candles deep into the winter nights. The Constitutional Court gave them what they had demanded so steadfastly and peacefully: Park was out. A crowd near exit No. 2 of Anguk Station, the nearest subway to the Constitutional Court, exploded with joy as Chief Justice Lee Jung-mi declared Park’s removal at 11:20 a.m. that day.

SEOUL, KOREA

“We won!� some cheered. Others flung their arms into the still-crisp air, screaming “Manse! [Victory!]� One teenage girl did an impromptu dance to a K-pop song. A teen boy took out a teepee-shaped party hat and blew a vuvuzela. Lee Young-chan, 19, a college freshman, was all smiles. “I participated in the Saturday rallies since October, from the very first one, even though I was a high school senior about to take the College Scholastic Ability Test. Everyone called me a lunatic. I’m just so happy about the result.� Lee was one of nearly 5,000 people gathered near Anguk Station, according to figures provided by the organizing coalition. Together they marched

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towards the Blue House filled with triumph, fists pumping in solidarity. Kim Hyun-soo, 30, a stock analyst in Yeouido, western Seoul, said he watched the Constitutional Court ruling with his colleagues at work and felt “overwhelmed� with the outcome. “We tuned in live from our computers, our volumes up to their highest levels,� he said. “My heart sank every time the chief justice uttered the word ‘however,’ but in the end, I think it was victory for the nation’s constitutionalism.� Kim Hyeon-jung, 29, an office worker in Gwanghwamun, central, Soul credited an independent counsel team for digging thoroughly into the extensive scandal that engulfed Park

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and her inner circle. Kim said the Constitutional Court “capped it off reasonably.� But a separate set of protesters waving Korean national flags had the opposite reaction. They are Park supporters, who have taken to the streets in recent weeks to urge her restoration — partly in fear of chaos or North Korea taking advantage of the impeachment process and any election that would follow Park’s removal. Many believe that Park was a “victim� in a scheme played out by her cronies. Just 100 meters (328 feet) away from the anti-Park masses, the former president’s backers wiped away tears See RALLIES, Page 2.

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The slush funds of the Park family were [allegedly] used as seed money for the Chois' wealth. The independent counsel wanted to investigate it recently, but could not do so as they ran out of time. [There is a belief] that Choi Soon-sil and Park Geunhye were one economic body.

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WEDNESDAY, MARCH 15, 2017 (No. 5,024)

Sky-high thrills at top of the Lotte World Tower PAGE 5

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Women’s football team heads to North Korea PAGE 7

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Prosecutors to summon Park as a suspect After earlier failures, new date for grilling to be announced today

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U.S. to send Gray Eagle drones to South Korea BY LEE SUNG-EUN

BY SER MYO-JA

Prosecutors will announce Wednesday when they want to question former President Park Geun-hye as a suspect in abuse of power and corruption allegations. A special investigation team headed by the Seoul Central District Prosecutors Office chief Lee Young-ryeol said Tuesday it will describe today its plans to go after Park. The team will decide today a date for her to be questioned and notify the ex-president. No negotiations will take place with Park’s associates or attorneys on the terms for the questioning, a prosecution source said. “She will be summoned as a suspect,� he said. Prosecutors are also considering a plan to compel her to attend a questioning session, such as obtaining a court warrant for an arrest, if she refuses to cooperate. Independent counsel Park Youngsoo handed over unfinished cases against Park to the prosecution last week. The special investigation team, which started the initial probe into the scandal involving Park, her inner circle and large business groups at the end of last year, was revived. The Constitutional Court permanently removed Park from office on Friday, lifting the presidential immunity that has shielded her from criminal prosecution. In last year’s initial probe, the prosecution identified Park as a co-conspirator in eight charges including abuse of power, coercion and leaks of national secrets. The independent counsel investigation confirmed the charges and added new allegations of bribery. Park, as of now, is facing 13 charges in total. Although Park promised publicly that she would cooperate with the prosecution and the independent counsel investigations, she refused to be questioned. Nor did she allow a raid of the Blue House for evidence. Last month, the independent counsel team managed to negotiate with Park a face-to-face questioning session but she backed out after complaining

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Tourists look at photos of former President Park Geun-hye on display in an exhibition hall of the Blue House on Tuesday, two days after the disgraced leader left the presidential compound. The prosecution will announce today when they will summon Park for questioning. A task force from the Presidential Archives visited the Blue House on Tuesday to discuss the designation of key materials and their relocation.

about a leaked date. Later, the independent counsel said the questioning also failed to take place because she refused any recording — video or audio — of the session. “We decide the questioning methods and other specifics,� said the source, referring to Park’s previous refusal. “We need consent from a witness for video recording, and we need to inform a suspect of video recording. But the specifics are decided by the prosecution.� In November, prosecutors indicted presidential friend Choi Soon-sil and An Chong-bum, former presidential aide, on charges of coercing conglomerates to make massive contributions to two non-profit foundations controlled by Choi. The independent counsel probe concluded in February

that Park was a bribery suspect in those cases. The independent counsel prosecuted Samsung executives, including its de facto leader Lee Jaeyong, for having bribed Park through Choi. After both probes, Park was not indicted due to presidential immunity. She denied all charges, claiming that the scandal was a conspiracy against her. To counter the probe, Park started beefing up her team of defense attorneys, said Lawyer Sohn Beom-kyu, who represented her during the impeachment trial. Another lawyer of Park also told the JoongAng Ilbo that he will ask the prosecution to delay the questioning until her defense team is complete. Prosecutors are also considering another plan to raid the Blue House.

The prosecution and independent counsel each made attempts to raid the presidential compound to search and seize evidence of Park’s suspected crimes, but they were both blocked. The Blue House maintained the compound is a military installation guarding national secrets. Despite a renewed plan for the raid, prosecutors are expected to face difficulty as the Presidential Archives began a process to preserve records produced by the Blue House during Park’s presidency. She served from Feb. 25, 2013 till March 10, 2017. A task force from the archives visited the Blue House on Tuesday to discuss the designation of key materials and relocating them. While the presidential records are generally open to the public, sensitive

materials can be concealed in the archive for up to 15 years. Records concerning privacy — including Park’s whereabouts and actions during the crucial early hours of the Sewol ferry’s sinking on April 16, 2014, and circumstances concerning her medical treatments by unlicensed outside practitioners — can be kept under wraps for up to 30 years. In order to view sealed records, an approval of two thirds of the incumbent National Assembly members or a warrant issued by a high court judge is required. In 2008, the prosecution obtained a warrant from the Seoul High Court to investigate a suspicion that former President Roh Moo-hyun took copies of the presidential records to See PARK, Page 2.

Seoul rolls out a preemptive defense of FTA with the U.S. NEWS ANALYSIS

Rise in market share of Korean products

BY LEE HO-JEONG

Unit: %

An American company that imports processed aloe drinks from Korea was able to push an aggressive marketing and growth strategy that got the drinks into WalMart and Sam’s Club thanks to the lifting of custom duties since the bilateral free trade agreement between Korea and the U.S. kicked in five years ago. An American company that supplies panels and boards for ships once used Chinese products because they were cheap. Since the FTA, it was able to switch to Korean products with higher quality at lower prices. It increased imports of Korean goods by 110 percent. The FTA between Korea and the U.S. reduced the administrative process to import Korean goods, allowing an American polymer-coated gloves importer to increase their imports 450 percent since 2012. These are just few of the success stories produced by the bilateral trade agreement as described by the Korea Trade-Investment Promotion Agency (Kotra) on Tuesday. The state-run trading arm stressed that the bilateral trade agreement contributed positively not only to Korean

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on average expanded 3.4 percent annually since the FTA was ratified. By industry, automobiles grew 12.4 percent from 2012-2016. Automobile exports alone accounted for 23.3 percent of all Korean exports to the U.S. Semiconductor exports on average grew 4.2 percent over the same period. As a result, Korean goods now account for 3.2 percent of U.S. imports, which is a 0.6 percentage point higher than in 2011. This is a faster expansion than Japan’s market share, which rose 0.2 percentage point during the same period to reach 6 percent. China accounts for the largest portion of U.S. imports, taking 21 percent, up nearly 3 percent compared to 2011. The U.S. does not have a bilateral FTA with China. Korea stressed the benefits to America in terms of trade on the fifth anniversary. While Korea’s imports declined an average of 5 percent annually since 2012, imports from the U.S. only dropped an average 0.6 percent during the same period — thanks to the FTA, according to the government. Imports of Japanese products nosedived 7 percent while imports from Asean countries declined 3.6 percent. American goods now account for 10.6 percent of all goods Korea im-

2011. During the same period, goods imported from Japan dropped from 13 percent to 11.7 percent. American automobiles imported to Korea have seen a significant rise of 35.5 percent from 2012-2016. Last year, when tariffs on cars imported from America were completely lifted, imports surged 39.5 percent to nearly $1.7 billion, according to the Kotra report. In 2011, $347 million worth of American vehicles were shipped to Korea. Korean investment in the U.S. has roughly tripled since the FTA ratification. Between 2008 and 2011, Korean companies invested an average $2.2 billion. That figure rose to $5.7 billion between 2012 and 2015. Last year Korean companies made their largest investment in the U.S. at $12.9 billion. That’s a 76 percent increase compared to $7.3 billion in 2011. The investments were concentrated in U.S. manufacturing industries including automobiles, home appliances, semiconductors and petrochemicals. Trump has accused Korea and other major trading partners including China, Japan, Germany and Mexico of making the U.S. look like a fool while the U.S. economy suffers. Earlier this month, the U.S. Trade Representative raised the subject of the increasing trade deficit with Korea and

agreements. “The largest trade deal implemented during the Obama Administration — our free trade agreement with South Korea — has coincided with a dramatic increase in our trade deficit with that country,� the office of the U.S. Trade Representative claimed March 1 in an annual report. “Plainly, the time has come for a major review of how we approach trade agreements.� While the U.S. trade deficit last month reached its highest level in five years, $48.5 billion, its trade deficit with Korea amounted to $2.3 billion, double the $1.2 billion in December 2016. Last year, the Korea Economic Research Institute estimated that if the Korea-U.S. FTA was renegotiated, Korea would suffer a $26.9 billion loss in exports between 2017 and 2021 and 240,000 jobs would be lost. The automobile industry alone would suffer a loss of $13.3 billion in exports. Seoul is officially brushing off the idea of a renegotiation of the FTA, saying the recent report from the U.S. trade representative contained arguments made in the past. But it is trying to assuage Washington on trade. On Tuesday, Vice Finance Minister Choi Sang-mok said the Korean government will expand imports of liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) from the U.S.

11.3.2017 Korea JoongAng Daily / 15.3.2017 Korea JoongAng Daily Source: Ministry of Trade, Industry and Energy

Today is the fifth anniversary of the free trade agreement going into effect — and Korea is keen to defend it against protectionist noises coming out of the Donald Trump administration in Washington. The Korean Ministry of Trade, Industry and Energy released a report trying to prove that the agreement had benefited both countries, saying that the exchange of goods of both countries increased an average of 1.7 percent annually since 2012 while overall global trade volume has declined. The report claimed that the bilateral agreement was a win-win agreement for both countries. The trade ministry report showed

The U.S. Army has begun the process to permanently station unmanned attack drones in South Korea to better respond to North Korean provocations, State Department acting spokesman Mark Toner said Monday during a press briefing in Washington. A Gray Eagle Unmanned Aerial Systems company will be established at Kunsan Air Base in Gunsan, a coastal city 150 miles south of Seoul in North Jeolla, said Toner. According to a statement by the U.S. Forces Korea, the company will be assigned to the 2nd Combat Aviation Brigade of the 2nd Infantry Division. This is part of the U.S. Army’s strategic plan to add one Gray Eagle or drone company to each division in the Army. A timeline was not mentioned. The move is “an ongoing effort to defend the Republic of Korea and U.S. interests in order to maintain regional security, stability and economic prosperity for the region,� Toner said in the briefing. “In addition to Thaad [the Terminal High Altitude Area Defense antimissile system], these are largely – or not largely, these are defensive measures that are a response to what we and by ‘we’ I mean South Korea, the United States and, certainly, Japan view as a real and credible threat to our security.� The Gray Eagle system, according to descriptions by the U.S. Army, “provides combatant commanders a realtime responsive capability to conduct long-dwell, persistent stare, wide-area reconnaissance, surveillance, target acquisition, communications relay and attack missions.� A Gray Eagle company consists of nine unmanned aircraft, five ground control stations, six ground data terminals, one mobile ground control station, three satellite ground date terminal, an automated take-off and landing system, and other ground-support equipment, operated and maintained by a company of 128 soldiers. It is unclear when consultations about the Gray Eagle company began between Seoul and Washington, but the announcement came a week after North Korea test-fired four ballistic missiles off its eastern coast, three of which fell into waters within Japan’s exclusive economic zone. The four projectiles reached an altitude of about 260 kilometers (162 miles) and flew 1,000 kilometers on March 6 before splashing into the East Sea, according to the South Korean Joint Chiefs of Staff. Later that night, the first components of the Thaad antimissile shield, including two launchers, arrived from the U.S. On Tuesday, a trilateral missile warning exercise by Seoul, Tokyo and Washington kicked off in waters off South Korea and Japan as the allies engaged in simulations detecting North Korean ballistic missiles. An Aegis-equipped destroyer from each country — South Korea’s Sejong the Great-Class Destroyer, Japan’s JDS Kirishima, America’s USS Curtis Wilbur — will take part in the drill, scheduled to last through today. The U.S. Navy’s USS Carl Vinson, a Nimitz-class aircraft carrier, will arrive in Busan Port today to join the Foal Eagle exercise. lee.sungeun@joongang.co.kr

YONHAP


Teaching in ide s y r t n the Cou

My first teaching job promised Seoul but left me in the sticks

F

expenses. Well, midway through my second lying taxis. That’s what I expectchilli-cheese burrito from Taco Bell, I started ed of Korea when I first arrived. to realize Korea might not be so bad. Well, not exactly flying taxis. But, If I shamelessly copied Rachel’s plan, for some reason, I imagined South I could make and save a ton of money, howKorea would be somewhat like Bruce Willis’s ever unattractive teaching might be. I could hometown in The Fifth Element. And sure, travel the world. I could live alongside Bruce there were flying taxis in that movie. So I asWillis in his futuristic hovel. sumed, god-willing without flying taxis omitSo I signed up for a 1 year contract. ted, that Korea would be similar to that flick. My recruiter promised me a lush urban That’s the overall impression, I got, anyways. dwelling. Just 30 minutes outside of the heart Seoul certainly bares a passing resemof Seoul, I would be a quick subway ride away. blance to that cyberpunk world but the Korean That wasn’t exactly true. Instead, I would countryside does not. And that’s where I first live in Dongducheon; a nice litworked: in the Korean countrytle town, mostly known (and side. Far away from Bruce Wilpartially reviled) for a nearlis’s daring taxi escapades. The In the spring, by American military base. neon-urban delights of Seoul the birds sang Technically, Dongducheon is were far out of my reach. and the tree Before coming to Korea, branches swayed. 45 minutes North of Seoul. I remember sitting in my wanIn the winter, the A southbound ride on the subnabe-frat-house squalor, I would snow shimmered. way could take me to Dobongresearch South Korea on almost It was like a damn san in that time. But Dobongsan isn’t exactly the heart of Seoul. a daily basis. 2012 was the year, children’s book. No, the places we all love to visand I was limping past the finit (Itaewon, Hongdae, and Seoul ish line of my 5th (and final) year Station) are all about an hour and a half away. of University in the lovely state of Missouri. Now, for those of you familiar with DongWith 2 separate bachelor degrees and a minor ducheon, you might not consider it too rural. in tow, all of which meaningless, I had nothing It bears a passing resemblance to some of the going on for myself. smaller suburbs of Seoul, which are, in their So I dreamed of South Korea. I dreamed own right, pretty urban. But my school wasn’t of escaping the MidWest before I turned 24, in Dongduchoen. It was a 40 minute bus ride and my quarter-life-crisis completely kicked into the Northern wilderness. Rice fields and in. Although, becoming a teacher wasn’t my a lone convenience store were all to be seen. first choice, to be completely honest with you. Regret. That’s what I immediately felt. I reAt that point in time, I was just hoping somealized that my dream of running around the one would hire me. For what job? Well, I had neon streets of Seoul would be, at best, saved no idea. Like I said, my degrees (history, Latin, for the weekends. and classics) weren’t particularly in demand at But you know what? The countryside the time. And they probably never were. was awesome. It only took me a few weeks I had no job prospects in America. Zip. to change my point of view. My school was Zilch. Nada. small, in the best way. 2 stories, 5 classrooms, So when my recently graduated, full-time and 60 students in total. They were great little barista, roomate Rachel told me that she was brats. going to teach in South Korea, I immediately It was all so… pleasant. That’s the best thought “Teaching! That’s crazy!” word for it. My co-workers were carefree. And then she told me her future wage, and Class always seemed secondary to creating especially how much she would save in living

relationships with our fellow teachers and our students. In the spring, the birds sang and the tree branches swayed. In the winter, the snow shimmered. It was like a damn children’s book. I didn’t realize all of this at the time, of course. I didn’t appreciate what I had. Not until I experienced teaching in the city. Admittedly, I didn’t get a chance to teach at a public school in the city. So for all of you hunting for flawed logic, you can find it there. I only ever taught at urban hagwons. Those fine academies for English knowledge. We’re all aware of the negative connotations that hagwons are associated with. They play with our pay, end our contracts early, force us to work more than we should… the list goes on and on. Ignoring those common problems, teaching in the city is still a far step below teaching in the countryside. Everyone is transient in a city school. Whichever Native English Speakers you meet are only there for a quick 1 or 2 year thrill. They’ll soon pass along to the next best trend they can find. That in itself isn’t innately bad. Brad, the 23 year-old recent grad from University of Wisconsin, doesn’t need to commit his entire adult life to Korea in order to be a ‘good guy’. But… the relationships that you form with folks like Brad are innately not geared towards depth. Coupled with that, your Korean co-workers have their eyes on advancing their careers. All teachers want to become a head teacher, and all head teachers want to become the vice principal, and all vice principals want to become the principal. This is especially true in urban schools (and yes, even hagwons). Building meaningful relationships is always going to come second to those ambitions. Perhaps those city dwellers enjoy their lives. More power to them, if they do. But I could never enjoy a life like that. I’ve tried.

Steve Lemlek is the handsome (and beautifully bearded) half of “Hal & Steve English,” an English education startup trying to change how English is taught in Korea.

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Story by Steve Lemlek


How to… Keep Korea

Cheap

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C O MMU NI TY

Use these ₩on-saving tips to leave you feeling like you’ve won Story and Photos by Heather Allman

W

ith winter finally coming to an end, the onset of the spring and summer seasons offers the return of the warm weather many have been waiting for. Before you know it, the frigid winter cold will be a distant memory as the scorching summer heat slowly trudges back into the limelight. For now, what may be Korea’s most aesthetically pleasing season is in full bloom as jackets are shed and cherry blossoms flourish across the nation. All bets are off when this year’s case of cabin fever has finally broken. With this newfound sense of well-being comes an urge to escape the florescent confinements of the frosty, grey winter, and let loose under the luminous spring and summer sun. In the warmer seasons, getting out and enjoying yourself can carry a heavy price tag. There’s no need to feel as though you must be frugal and annoyingly conscientious of your spending. Korea offers a diverse inventory of activities and ventures that will help you make the most out of your free time during the warm months without loosening those purse strings a little too much.

In January 2014, the Korean government designated the last Wednesday of each month as Culture Day. In order to help Korea cultivate more involvement and interest in the culture and arts, many organizations offer discount-

ed prices to guests on these days. Numerous museums including, The National Museum of Korea and Gyeonggi Provincial Museum, offer discounts on both tickets and touring exhibitions. Cultural Heritage sites such as, Gyeongbokgung Palace and Jongmyo Shrine (UNESCO World Heritage), offer free admission to visitors on Culture Day. Performance facilities including, The Korean Symphony Orchestra and Korean National Ballet, are just a couple of the numerous facilities that offer free admission or discounted prices on inhouse performances. If you’ve been looking to expand your understanding of Korean culture and art, Culture Day bids you an opportunity to do so in a modest, yet edifying fashion. Prices are determined by each establishment. For more information and a complete list of participants, contact the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism.

Seoul, as well as the walls of museums and performance facilities. All CGV, Megabox, and Lotte Cinemas offer discounted general admission tickets for as little as KRW 5,000 to moviegoers on Culture Day. If you’re dying to see the newest release, but don’t want to spend the cash, consider a matinée or late night showing. Matinée times typically extend into the early afternoon, issuing tickets for KRW 5,000. Late night showings, from 12:00am5:00am, run for KRW 6,000. CGV, Megabox, and Lotte Cinema frequently offer discount coupons for general admission tickets, which can be found at establishments situated around the theater. Keep your eyes peeled for these coupons, as stacks are piled high in corners, and use of coupons is not limited. With ticket prices like these, there’s no reason not to sit back, relax, and enjoy a few movie snacks (and free air-con) as the curtains are drawn.

A regular trip to the movies (popcorn or no popcorn, fried squid or no fried squid) is much more reasonable in Korea than back home. Going to the movies every weekend to see the newest film from your favorite superhero franchise, the most talked about Korean blockbuster, or even a lighthearted fairytale, however, can quickly add up. Luckily for cinephiles, theaters across the country offer guests several opportunities to catch a flick without breaking the bank. If you think about what you’d spend on the tickets and snacks at home, your guilt will melt away as quickly as the butter poured over your hot, steamy popcorn. Culture Day, the last Wednesday of every month, extends way beyond the city lines of

Drinking alcohol is a time honored part of Korea’s culture, enjoyed by the majority of the population and foreign nationals. While it is easy to partake in and enjoy this aspect of South Korean culture, it can just as easily lighten one’s wallet. Convenience stores, known as “marts” around the country, serve as sudo bars to sit and share an alcoholic bev-


Traditional markets are well known throughout Korea. Certain markets tend to become popular attractions for foreigners, while others tend to stay off the map. Most traditional markets focus on specific assemblages of products, while others carry a hodgepodge of just about anything. Markets may be best known as a terrain for the unending chase for bargain prices, however, traditional markets are a bustling and prime setting to eat and drink traditional Korean fare that’s just as Living on the Korean peninsula, centraleasy on the pocketbook. ly located to numerous beautiful nations, it is Gwangjang Market is the oldest traditioninevitable to get the itch to wander. With traval market in Seoul, and while it sees some eling, however, comes the burden of cutting foreigners, the majority of patrons lining into your savings, or sacrificing other costs in the stalls are Korean nationals. If you’re order to afford a trip. Luckily, there are a few looking for good Korean food, a market airlines that accommodate those filled with locals is the hoping to maintain financial place to find it. At each security. Air Busan, Peach AirIf you think about stall, vendors prepare ways, Jin Air, and Jeju Air each what you’d spend anything from bindaeoffer flights to select destitteok (빈대떡) to sundae on movie tickets nations with much lower (순대), made to order. Spend and snacks back fares than other airlines. time wandering the stalls, as home, your guilt Whether categorized you never know what surpriswill melt away as “Super Special Prices—and lower prices—you may as quickly as the es,” “Low Fares,” or find. Carly Magee of Seattle, WA, butter poured “Saver Fare,” these visited Gwangjang Market on over your hot, prices can only be steamy popcorn. a vacation to South Korea. Maaccessed on each airgee “chose to go to the market to line’s company website. immerse [herself] in the modern Make sure to plan ahead day culture. The best part was as these tickets generally sell out three to how inexpensive it was while being able to four months in advance. The flights may not have front and center interactions with the be the most luxurious, but they are undoubtvendors.” There are thousands of traditional edly the most affordable way to add another markets across Korea similar to Gwangjang, stamp to your passport. so next time you encounter one, think about having a taste.

Comparatively to, for example, premier league games in England, Korean soccer games are strikingly affordable. While tickets to a single match out west carry a heavy price tag more often than not, tickets in Korea run at the equivalent of a 350% discount. FC Seoul offers tickets for as low as KRW 12,000 per match. If you find yourself in Jeollabuk-do, you can watch Jeonju FC, the Asian Champions League winners of 2016, play at home for KRW 5,000. Now these prices may not put you right between the sticks, but at the cost of one ticket back home, you could see more than four games, or see a few while enjoying a few. Regardless of which route you choose, any scenario will play to your advantage.

Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism Tel 044-203-2000 Add Government Complex-Sejong, 388, Galmae-ro, Sejong-si 30119, Republic of Korea Gwangjang Market Subway Line 1 to Jongno 5-ga Station (Exit 7). HOURS Typically, stores operate between 7:00 and 17:00 and are closed on Sundays. FC Seoul Tel 1544-1555 WEBSITE www.fcseoul.com Jeonju FC Tel 1544 1555 WEBSITE www.interpark.com

Heather Allman comes from the United States and currently resides in Jeonju. With a background in International Relations and Spanish, she has a dexterity for language and a passion for world travel. Heather’s ambition is to combine her loves of writing and globe trotting into one big, multilingual, career fantástico.

31 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

erage (or two) with friends. Visitors are permitted to purchase anything from inside and enjoy it at the tables outside of the mart. Mario Lima, of Guatemala, has been residing in Jeonju for over three years. Of choosing marts over a long night out at a bar, Lima says, “Having a good time has never been about the place but about the people you're out with. Convenience stores in Korea give me the chance to set the tune and have my people with me in a cheaper, friendlier, and somehow more familiar way.” Still not convinced? Most marts house a hidden toilet for late night customers to use. Befriend your local convenience store owner like you would a bartender, and you’ll be set throughout the entire spring and summer.


s p eci a l

u j n o Je

The 18th 2017 Jeonju IFF

Jeonju IFF programmer Jang Byun Won Hotspots and Hangouts

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The Nuances of Free Time


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s p eci a l

The 18th Jeonju IFF: A Slight Change in Name, No Change in its commitment to Cinema The global barometer of the current film movement returns

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Story by Dean Crawford Photos courtesy of Jeonju IFF


find the right audience, but also for the audience to meet those filmmakers in person, on Cinema Street." That's not to say there aren't films for a mainstream audience, because there are.  David Cronenberg, P.T. Anderson and Takashi Miike, for example, have all had showings at the festival, but it just highlights that Jeonju IFF isn't afraid to take risks and challenge its audience with its line-up.  With several categories in competition, the talent pool is high. Last year, the Grand Prize in the International Competition was awarded to Elite Zexer’s “Sandstorm,” which went on to receive a nomination for Best Foreign Language film at this year’s Oscars, narrowly losing out to Asghar Farhadi’s, “The Salesman.” Past winners include Nobuhiro Suwa for his film, “Mother,” and Canada’s Dennis Cotes for his film, “Drifting States.” There are several other awards for short and feature length international films, as well as awards for Korean Features and Korean shorts.

Jeonju IFF is the best place not only for relentless filmmakers to find the right audience, but also for the audience to meet those filmmakers in person Demonstrating the festival’s dedication to independent cinema and discovering new talent is the Jeonju Cinema Project. Born out of the Jeonju Digital Project, where three filmmakers had carte blanche to produce a short film to be screened at the festival, Jeonju IFF has expanded to feature-length movies, which they finance and then distribute entirely under the umbrella of the Jeonju International Film Festival. So far, the project has been a huge success. Park Jung-bum’s feature film “Alive” went on to win awards at festivals around the world and well-respect-

ed Korean Film magazine, Cine 21, voted another Jeonju Cinema Project, Kim Soo-hyun’s "The Great Patriots", as one of the best films of last year.  2017 marks the first time that three Korean directors will take part in the project, with Lee Chang-jae directing “N Project," Kim Dae-hwan helming “First Trip,” and Kim Yang-hee making her feature length debut with “A Poet’s Love”. It’s interesting to note that Kim won the 'Feature Film Pitching Grand Prize' at the Jeonju Project Market in 2016. So it isn’t simply all talk and a catchy slogan, but Jeonju IFF actively encourages and funds new talent.  However, it is often the movies and events that are not in competition that generate a great deal of buzz. The ‘Focus On’ section allows audiences to become familiar with prominent figures in world cinema such as Pedro Costa, Bela Tarr and the great Pier Paolo Pasolini.  This year’s ‘Focus On’ is showing the works of Michael Winterbottom. Regarded by Jeonju IFF as “the filmmaker across the boundaries”, it’s easy to see why they’ve invited this master.  Winterbottom has been making films for over 20 years and if ever the word “eclectic” could be used to describe a Director, it would be him. From the acid trip that is “24-hour Party People,” to the criminally underrated Sci-Fi love story, “Code 46”, it feels as if Winterbottom is a director that can do anything. Winterbottom will be participating in the ‘Master Class’, which is a program to help the audience understand the cinematic artistry of the director, whose filmography consists of over 40 films. This exhibition aims to focus not only on Winterbottom himself, but as programmer Lee Sang-yong explained, to also show “the various points of views on the circumstances in Europe after the 90s.”  At the time of writing, 15 of his works from his vast catalogue are due to be screened.  Highlights being the aforementioned “24-Hour Party People”, docudrama “The Trip” and the controversial “9 Songs”, which follows two lovers and their passion for music and each other. Described by The Guardian as “the most sexually explicit film ever made,” "9 Songs"  was notorious at the time of its release due to graphic scenes containing unsimulated sex. Winterbottom was not the first to use real sex as a storytelling device, but 13 years on, the film does seem tame by today’s standards. You could argue Winterbottom is something of a trailblazer when you consider “Blue is the Warmest Color” won the Palme d'Or at Cannes, and one of the hottest tickets at last year’s Jeonju IFF was Gasper Noe’s “Love”, which con-

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here’s no denying that the previous 12 months have been fantastic for Korean cinema. “The Handmaiden”, “The Wailing”, and “Train to Busan” all received worldwide acclaim, being certified fresh on American review aggregator Rotten Tomatoes, (94%, 99%, and 96% respectively) with the latter already being lined up for an American remake. And in February, The Handmaiden’s Kim Minhee became the first South Korean actress to win the Silver Bear at the Berlin Film Festival for her role in Hang Sang-soo’s “On the Beach at Night Alone”. The last 12 months have also been an excellent time for the city of Jeonju. Once solely thought famous for inventing Bibimbap, it was named in the top 3 destinations to visit on The Lonely Planet’s ‘Best in Asia’ list, ranking higher than more established locales like Hong Kong and the Trang Islands in Vietnam.  On April 27th, some of the best new Korean filmmakers, along with some of the biggest names in world cinema, will spend 10 days in the third best place in Asia (Lonely Planet’s words, not mine...), as the Jeonju International Film Festival returns for its 18th outing.  With roughly 220 films from more than 40 countries, the festival is only getting bigger and better every year.  Last year’s festival broke several attendance records with 503 screenings (the most ever) of which 219 of them were sellouts (again, the most ever).  The popularity of last year’s festival almost certainly comes down to some great strategic planning from festival organizers.  Where the festival was once held primarily in Cinema Street with other screenings and performances dotted all over the city, the opening of a brand new CGV in Gosa Dong meant that all screenings were condensed to several movie theaters solely along Cinema Street, Downtown.  Outdoor screenings and musical performance stages were erected further along the road creating a more convenient festival, making it easier to see several films in one day, or to finish off the night watching a live band in the performance zone.  As its profile continues to grow, JIFF (rebranded to Jeonju IFF) is now recognized as a “global barometer of current film movement that introduces Independent and Experimental films from around the world.” Whereas other festivals, like Cannes or Busan, rely on star names and sales, the real stars at Jeonju IFF are the films themselves, with former programmer Yoo Un-seong noting, "at Jeonju IFF, the real heroes are the filmmakers who are struggling to make films with uncompromising minds. Jeonju IFF is the best place not only for [relentless] filmmakers to


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tained full penetrative sex and ejaculations, all in glorious 3D. Elsewhere, there is a healthy selection of animated and short films, and one of the more recent additions to the lineup is ‘Cinematology’, which aims to educate audiences on filmmakers through film. But for many, including myself, the highlight of the whole festival is ‘Midnight in Cinema’. This section is comprised of midnight screenings on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, showing three films that run into the early hours of the morning. Whether it be a triple-header showcasing Blaxpoitation, Music Documentary or Horror movies, these nights always sell out, QUICK, especially the Horror movies. From vampires to cannibals, clowns to zombies, there’s a load of fun to be had watching Korean and foreign audiences alike jump out of their skin. It’s even better comparing the zombies on screen to the zombies in the aisles at 6 a.m. as students wander aimlessly, honing in on free milk and snacks. After six-plus hours in a theater, the resemblance is staggering. If you can manage to stay up all the way through, it’s a great night.  Cinemafest is likely to be the most audience friendly of all the sections showing more mainstream movies. But if you want to see something different and original, ‘Expanded Cinema’ comprises of more experimental and challenging films. However, this section can ultimately be the most rewarding as the whole point of a festival like Jeonju IFF is to find something new and broaden your horizons. And while the festival has always been friendly to local filmamkers, starting from this year, the Jeonju International Film Festival has introduced the official ´Local Cinema´ section to support home-grown talent. The majority of the films submitted were made by residents of Jeollabuk-do and mostly shot in and around the area.  If you’re not content with a wide array of films from all over the globe costing a mere 6,000 won per ticket, or the opportunity to meet legends in their field discussing their movies, the Jeonju IFF lounge provides lectures given by specialists on Korean pop culture, murals displayed by local artists, games, bike rides and a kids zone where they can engage in arts and crafts.  Each year, stands are erected so that festivalgoers can take a break from the movies and watch various live bands perform – all for free!  Last year, free beer helped highlight the atmosphere as Long D performed for 1000 fans who were dancing and jumping til the early hours of the morning.  Keep an eye out for some of the names that will be performing this year.  The much anticipated Jeonju IFF poster has been released, which, this year, is meant

to symbolize “an outlet for expression” and is a demonstration of the festivals commitment to diversity and dynamism. With a simple design using a swash of red and one of blue, the imagery is supposed to represent “light”.  With Jeonu IFF being a spring festival, this image has been used before, particularly in the 13th and 14th editions.  But this year, the symbolism has been drastically changed, supposedly becoming more vibrant, looking like a butterfly ready to soar. The hope is that this in turn implieså “Jeonju IFF will provide an outlet of expression through diverse movie programs.”  This is one area that cannot be doubted when it comes to Jeonju

With roughly 220 films from more than 40 countries, the festival is only getting bigger and better every year IFF’s programming.The commitment to art and diversity is clear when you look at some of the films shown in previous years, such as Khavn De La Cruz’s “Mondomanila,” described as a “psychedelic/apocalyptic musical tour of a carnivalesque slum," which has been a standout of all the Jeonju Film Festivals to date. Compared to Jeonju, the Busan Film Festival feels a lot more commercial, which of course it is—the whole point of a film festival like Cannes or Busan is to find a distributor for your film. But from an audience perspective, a film festival is a place to discover something new and unique.  For example, it’s all well and good watching one of the biggest films at 2015’s BIFF, which was Denis Villeneuve’s “Sicario," starring Benicio Del Toro and Emily Blunt. But with all the talent behind the camera and in front, it was always going to get a wide release—it was just a matter of when. Consider a film like the aforementioned “Mondomanilla,”—when do you ever get a chance to see a film like that? Anyone outside of Jeonju IFF who has seen it is few and far between. That is exactly what the festival is all about. As Asian film expert Pao-

lo Bertolin notes, Jeonju was “practically the sole event to place independent productions and avant-garde cinema at the core of its programming.” And despite getting bigger every year, this sentiment still holds true today. Whereas BIFAN aims to astound and BIFF aims to sell, the Jeonju International Film Festival really does keep the art of cinema at its forefront. Besides, even if you don’t like the films, you can always eat the bibimbap.  Directions: After taking a bus or train to Jeonju, tell a taxi driver “Geksa Megabox” to get to Cinema Street. From here, follow the yellow jackets who can help you pick up a booklet or buy tickets. Or visit www.eng.jiff. or.kr to purchase tickets in advance.


Once again, the line up for the 18th Jeonju International is impressive as ever. Here are just a select few that have been chosen as potential stand outs at this year’s festival.

1. On Body and Soul “On Body and Soul” has been given the honor of being this year’s opening film, and it’s easy to see why. The Hungarian drama directed by Ildikó Enyedi has been described by Patrick Gamble of CinemaVue as "a romantic melodrama about the duality of our sleeping and waking personas." It has excellent reviews and won the Golden Bear at this year’s Berlin Film Festival.   2. The Untamed Another big hitter on the festival circuit is “The Untamed," which won the Best Director prize at the Venice Film

Festival for film-maker Amat Escalante. Part Mexican realist drama, part love story, part Sci-Fi, part Erotica. Escalante’s previous film, “Heli," also won him the award for Best Director at the 2013 Cannes Film Festival, so expectations are high for his forth feature length film. 3. Lost City of Z Having the prestigious honor of being the closing film at the New York Film Festival, this true story is based on the British explorer Percival Fawcett's journey to find the Lost City of Z and his subsequent disappearance.  Maybe one of the more mainstream movies offered to audiences this year, the film stars Charlie Hunnum as Fawcett and Sienna Miller as his wife, Nina Fawcett.  The newest Spiderman, Tom Holland, also stars as their son, Jack. Described by Time Magazine’s Joshua Rothkopf as “the revelation of [last] year” and  The Telegraph’s Robbie Collins as “a film as transporting, profound and staggering in its emotional power as anything I've seen in the cinema in years," The Lost City of Z is sure to be one of the hottest Tickets at this Year’s Jeonju IFF. 

4. The Emperor’s New Clothes One of two documentaries being shown from this year’s “Master”. Michael Winterbottom follows Russell Brand as he tries to make sense of the growing disparity in earnings between the rich and poor.  Love him or hate him, Brand is passionate about the subject matter. “When I was poor and complained about inequality they said I was bitter; now that I'm rich and I complain about inequality they say I'm a hypocrite.”  The combination of Brand and Winterbottom should make for compelling, yet hilarious viewing.   5. The Trip and The Trip to Italy  Made for the BBC but released as feature length films, “The Trip” and its sequel follow comedians Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon, or fictionalized versions of themselves at least, as they eat and drink their way around two different countries. Sometimes hilarious, sometimes somber, "The Trip" and it’s follow up are a highlight in Michael Winterbottom’s vast back catalogue and well worth your time.

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5

of the best at the 18th Jeonju IFF


interview s p eci a l

S

ince its inception in 2000, the Jeonju International Film Festival has seen a lineup of films from Asian masters such as Japan’s Takashi Miike and Korea’s own Park Chan-wook while introducing Korea to modern day auteurs like Darren Aronofsky and two time Academy Award winning director Alejandro González Iñárritu. Not content with using big names to attract an audience, Jeonju IFF programmers scour the globe looking for the most exciting and diverse films cinema has to offer in a bid to challenge and stimulate audiences. However, bringing hundreds of films to a festival is no easy feat. We managed to track down Jeonju International Film Festival programmer Jang Byun-won to talk about his role, his favourite films from previous festivals and how Jeonju IFF compares to other film festivals around the globe.

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Thank you for taking the time to talk to us. I suppose I’m going to dive straight in and ask you how do you go about choosing what films will come to the festival? First, I consider whether it corresponds with the tradition and identity of the Jeonju International Film Festival. Jeonju IFF supports those films that are radical in themes, original in aesthetics, and controversial in culture. Second, if we find a film that only we can screen, we try to include them in the festival. Third, in consideration of the transition of films, we try to have a screening of films that don’t dwell in the traditional form and expand their boundary. Do you have a favorite type of film to program whether that’s by country or genre? We are focusing on the potential of Latin American films that we put in strategical effort for the past few years. Latin America is in the center of political, social, and culturally dynamic change, and thus acts as the epicenter of creative artists, and original films. Not only Argentina, Brazil or Mexico which are the traditional film powers of Latin America, but also other countries such as Chile, Columbia, Bolivia and Venezuela, are making creative films recently. We are also noticing Greece, Hungary, Israel and other European countries that are on a different track from Western European art

with Jeonju IFF programmer Jang Byun Won

films. In Genre, the breakthrough of documentaries are noticeable. We would like to introduce films that show the progression of documentaries in the aspect of theme, form and style. Can you tell me about one of your favourite films from last year’s Jeonju IFF and why you chose it? “Despite the Night” by the director Philippe Grandrieux. This film is the one that was invited to the ‘Special focus’ in the 17th Jeonju IFF. Philippe Grandrieux’s films haven't easily been introduced to international

This year’s slogan of our festival is the ‘an outlet of expression in film’. We have invited films that are bold and controversial film festivals. So we are proud to have introduced all his feature films in our festival. “Despite the night”, which is the most recent film of Phillippe Grandrieux, has lead us to find the language of the film again. Why did you choose to “Focus On” on the films of Michael Winterbottom? What are you expecting from his Master Class? Michael Winterbottom has developed his own career by working on a wide range of films including fiction films, documentaries, and television films. He is one of the most representative directors of contemporary cinema whose filmography consists of over 40 films. Through this special exhibition, we can focus on not only the director Winterbottom himself, but also the various points of views on the circumstances in Europe after the 90s. With two programmes

of 'Master class' we expect to see the vision of Michael Winterbottom, the filmmaker across the boundaries. What makes Jeonju IFF different from other festivals in Korea (Like Busan, for example) and other Film festivals around the world? ‘Jeonju Cinema Project’, which started as a production of short films and changed its course as of 2014, supports the production of feature films, and is the only example of investment and production of feature films by international film festivals. Jeonju IFF in the early days had a motto of ‘Digital, Alternative, Independence’. We have foreseen the digital age, emphasized the current of alternatives and differentiated other international film festivals. We have found new and radical independent films and supported filmmakers other than the major art films that are in the spotlight in the circuit of international film festivals What kinds of films are your favorite, and what types of films do you wish more filmmakers would submit? Personally, I like films that widen the limit of perspective. A film that is ugly and uncomfortable but gives you a new perspective as well as a beautiful one makes a deep impression to me. What will make the 18th Jeonju International Film Festival different from previous years? Why should people come? This year’s slogan of our festival is the ‘an outlet of expression in film’. We have invited films that are bold and controversial. There are unknown films that may come into your liking including the opening film “On Body and Soul”. Jeonju is also a city of tradition, culture and food, which makes it a great place for fun. The guests visiting from other countries like this about Jeonju. I recommend a trip to Jeonju for the fulfilment of your five senses while experiencing the films, food and beautiful streets. Films that you wouldn't come across in everyday life for your eyes and ears, great food for your taste. You can see the present and future of film and discuss the directionality of films at the Jeonju IFF.


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Hotspots and Hangouts Here's what to do after the credits roll Story and Photos by Dean Crawford & Heather Allman


Makgeolli Street One of our favorite nights out in Korea is a trip to Makgeolli Street. Makgeolli is cheap, delicious, and it’s a more than enjoyable experience. Thankfully for those that live in Jeonju, situated in Seoshindong, lies a street dedicated to the slightly sweet, white, rice liquor drink. Of all the options, the most renowned establishment in the opinion of Jeonju expats is Yetchon Makgeolli (예촌막걸리). Don’t expect a quiet sit down anywhere around here! Graffiti adorns the walls of Yetchon, while makgeolli bells constantly ring for refills above the thunderous laughter and chatter of patrons. Despite all of the excitement, it’s not Yetchon’s atmosphere, but its unimaginable variety of food that sets it apart from the rest. Every time another kettle of makgeolli is ordered, an additional course of food arrives. Kimchijeon (김치전), tofu kimchi (두부김치), grilled mackerel (삼치구이), oysters, clams, chicken soup, and eggs are just a few of the dishes that just keep coming. If you're feeling brave, san-nakji (산낙지), or live octopus, will be dismembered at your table to enjoy at the very end. Timing is everything, as you’ll probably need to be quite inebriated to give it a try. Though not located within walking distance of Cinema Street, ask any taxi driver to take you to “Seoshin-Dong Yetchon Makgeolli,” and they'll know where to go. Yetchon Makgeolli add Wansan-gu Seoshin-dong 847-13, Jeonju-si Tel 063 251 5388

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f you plan on making a trip to Jeonju for the film festival this month, don’t be fooled into thinking that the films are the only thing to do once you're in the city. After you’ve had your fill of flicks, Jeonju has a whole host of options to keep you busy. Whether you’re looking for international fare, live bands, Korean tradition, or a place to drink until the early hours of the morning, Jeonju has got you covered. Here are a small handful of establishments that we recommend. But, be warned — some of these places might leave you struggling to make the 10am showings at Jeonju IFF the next day!


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Night Flight

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You Love Soul Zip Nestled in one of the side streets of Gaeksa, branching off of Cinema Street, sits You Love Soul Zip which offers foodies authentic foreign flavors from all over Europe. The restaurant is run by Lucy Oyi, a Jeonju native, who has recently returned to her hometown after spending twelve years in France, studying, modeling, and learning the ins and outs of French cuisine. Oyi came home to share her hard earned knowledge and desire to provide a place for everyone to enjoy. Whether patrons are looking for a place to eat, drink, or party, the setting in You Love Soul Zip is relaxed, perfectly highlighted by a whimsical and classic decor. The menu offers French fare, such as escargot, bœuf bourguignon, and delicious cheeses. With a large drink menu and outdoor patio, You Love Soul Zip is a great stop for a drink or bite to eat from 6pm - 2am. add Gosa-dong, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si, 560-803 Tel 070-4146-1888

For those who seek out live music, 야간비행 (pronounced: Ya-gan-bihang) is tucked away in Jeonju's famous Hanok Village. On Fridays and Saturdays, Korean and expats musicians play both originals and covers throughout the night. The setting is dark and intimate—if you've ever wanted to see someone bring the house down to Prince’s “Purple Rain” or Eric Clapton's “Layla” four feet from your face, this is the place to be. Even better, if you play, the owner of 야간비행 will let you get up and jam out with whichever house band is playing that night. Sit back with any of their numerous signature cocktails, a glass of wine, or a draft beer, and enjoy the music. 야간비행 takes about ten minutes on foot from Cinema Street. add 61, Dongmun gil, 2nd floor, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si Tel 063-231-3604


The setting is dark and intimate - if you've ever wanted to see someone bring the house down to Prince’s “Purple Rain” or Eric Clapton's “Layla” four feet from your face, this is the place to be. Even better, if you play, the owner of 야간비행 will let you get up and jam out with whichever house band is playing that night

There was a time when Mexican food was hard to come by in Jeonju, but a little over a year-and-a-half ago, Masi Taco came along and changed everything. While several other Mexican restaurants have popped up, Masi Taco was the first, and is arguably still the best. Masi Taco’s menu has traditional food covered, from tacos to chimichangas, burritos to fajitas. They’ve put their own spin on nachos with their Sloppy Joe Fries and Kimchi Bacon Fries. The interior sets the restaurant apart, as does the friendly and welcoming staff—but the frozen margaritas and tequila shots don't hurt, either. Stop in for a drink or even some, as they’d say in Mexico, “comida deliciosa.” Masi Taco is located just off Cinema Street, opposite the Zara building. add 409-5 Gosa-dong, 2nd floor, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si Tel 063-286-0702

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Masi Taco


Deepin

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Since it’s opening in 1997, the Deepin has remained a popular mainstay on Jeonju’s drinking scene. Imagine a dim lit, old school bar from back home. Now, add writing on the walls and pictures of drunken expats, those still residing in Korea, and those who have long since departed. That’s Deepin. Want a little advice? Ask the owner, John, to play your favorite song, and he’ll let you set the soundtrack for the whole night. A large selection of bottled beers, a few on draft, a large liquor selection, music by request, and operating hours that don’t end until sunrise all guarantee that you and your friends will be here for more than a while. Located in Gaeksa, Deepin is a short walk from Cinema Street. add 16-16, Jeollagamyeong 4-gil, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si Tel 070-4063-1997

That’s Deepin. Want a little advice? Ask the owner, John, to play your favorite song, and he’ll let you set the soundtrack for the whole night. A large selection of bottled beers, a few on draft, a large liquor selection, music by request, and operating hours that don’t end until sunrise all guarantee that you and your friends will be here for more than a while

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Mad Hungry One of the most popular, if not THE most popular, bars in Jeonju's new town, Hyoja-Dong, is Mad Hungry. The bar was one of the first to bring a little bit of “Seoul” to the area, with a widely opened, modern decor and a vast drink menu. Others have since opened, but Mad Hungry remains the most popular, largely in part to its western inspired menu (try any of the burgers!), pool tables, and darts. A stop by here on most weekends (or weeknights, for that matter) will find more than a few expats to keep you company. Don't stay for too long, or it might send you “Mad.” Tell any taxi driver, “Shinshi-ga-ji Mango Six” to get there. ADD 42, Hongsanjungang-ro, 6th floor, Hyoja-dong 3 ga, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si Tel 063-237-3618


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The Nuances of Free Time

The weekend is coming and while you’re clamoring to fill your 48 hours, we invite you to sit back, chill, soak up the scenery and enjoy your coffee Edited by Dianne Pineda Story by Yunjae Hwang and Seong Jin Kim


Poetry House Exposed pipes, highfalutin menu written on chalkboards, uncomfortable mismatched seats, and overpriced coffee–the rise of the hipster cafés never seems to end. It’s hard to find a really nice place without getting bothered by minimal interiors or overtly contrived “hipster coffee culture” when you just want your caffeine fix. “A café job is not complicated,” Poetry House owner and operator Yunjae Hwang says as he makes a cup of Americano, “Do you know how to make a latté? It’s very simple.” Unlike many commercial coffee shops, Hwang’s café lies deep in the outskirts of Jeonju, where you’ll have to drive past expansive rice fields until you see the tall, narrow, bricklined building standing there alone like a misplaced structure. The location is as interesting as the story behind it. “The original plan was to build a place in memory of my [departed] mother,” Hwang says. And if you look at the narrowness of the building, it is actually shaped like a slightly open book, hence its name. You can feel a sense of calm and nostalgia when you go inside the Poetry House, from the carpentry tools displayed on the walls, the clean, white paint, succulent plants, and of course, the poetry books that line every corner. The place is built around Hwang’s passions: poetry, wine, plants, and his mom. Hwang used to work as a seaman and traveled in far places around the world, scouring for great tasting wine on the side. The café serves as a space for wine tasting classes, poetry reading, and bottled plant making. Hwang encourages people to make creative use of used bottles by putting plants or succulents in them, sell them and donate the proceeds of the finished products to charity. So if you’re feeling a little wistful, Poetry House is the place where you can step back from a fastpaced life, listen to the quiet rhythms, and perhaps all your troubles will be forgotten by the smell of coffee, some rhymes and perhaps a sip of wine. Add 18-36, Jungpyeong-gil, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si tel 010-7640-8787 Facebook www.facebook.com/poetryzip


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Jeonju Yeonghwa Hotel What could be dreamier than getting lost in a movie and the smell of coffee beans roasting in its bitter taste? As you get the first whiff of the sweet aroma, the film unfolds in a languid pace. As you sip in your cup deeper, the plot thickens, and when you get to the climax until the closing credits, you realize you’re craving for more – both of the story and caffeine. Having coffee at the Yonghwa Hotel is an otherworldly experience. On the first floor of the hotel lies an escape from reality. As you open the doors to the café you’ll be enveloped by the smell of dry wood mixed with old books, vintage LP record collections, and coffee roast. What makes it different is that they have a section of monitors you can use if you want to watch any movie of your choice, with a minimum of two orders. There’s no entrance fee, and the infinite range of choices beats any other movie theater in the block. With the café’s staggering range of 15,000 video material, 3,400 specialized books, and 2,000 magazines, who needs Wi-Fi? This treasure trove has hard-to-find selections for movie enthusiasts who want to enjoy watching stories unfold while drinking coffee – instead of eating popcorn. Add 28-27, Jeonjugaeksa 2-gil, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si Website www.yeonghwahotel.com


Music at the Cinema

Film scores are so much more than just background music

music

Story by Emma Kalka

I

have been a massive fan of movie soundtracks since I was in middle school. In the beginning, it was mostly so I could relive my favorite scenes and moments from movies. But as I got older, I started to realize the intricate connection between the story and the music. The music could push the story forward or enhance the emotions being portrayed on screen. I also started to appreciate the inspiration that I received as a writer. We all have those movie soundtracks that stick with you, whether it’s because you just really enjoy listening (or singing along) to them. Sometimes it’s because the music moved you or because it brings up memories from your own life. That was the basis I started with in creating the following list. These are not all critically acclaimed soundtracks—and I’m sure some will question the inclusion of a few—but for one reason or another, they are my favorite movie soundtracks to date.

1

The Commitments 1991 | Produced by Paul Bushnell, Kevin Killen & Alan Parker

I knew the music from The Commitments way before I ever saw the cult classic. It was a favorite of my mother’s and she would pretty much play it non-stop as I was growing up. I am fairly certain that by the time I did actually watch the film for the first time in my 20s, I could sing every song with the actors on screen. So more than anything, the soundtrack is number one on my list for sentimental reasons—when I listen to it, it immediately conjures up images of my mom (and sometimes my dad) dancing around the living room to “Mustang Sally.” Outside of that, it has stood the test of time as an all-around great soundtrack. The producers spent several months piecing together a perfect set list for the movie—music plays a pivotal role in the film’s plot—eventually wheedling the list down from the original short list of 1,000 songs to the 24 performed by the cast. Fun fact: all of the cast sang and played their own instruments (except one) and were specifically chosen because of this.

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2

The Pianist

2002 | performed by Janusz Olejniczak

The soundtrack to the acclaimed film The Pianist made my little classical pianist heart sing. I had always been a massive fan of Frederic Chopin as his pieces were often my favorite to study during my eight years as a piano student. The soundtrack consists almost solely of Chopin’s work, excluding one track of score music composed by Wojciech Kilar and a couple of pieces by Bach and Beethoven. The film is based on the life of famed Jewish-Polish pianist Wladyslaw Szpilman and thus features many of the pieces he actually played throughout his life. When playing Chopin, I always felt it was quite easy to pour emotion and feeling into the pieces. Listening to Chopin being played by someone as talented as Janusz Olejniczak is enough to excite or bring tears to your eyes, depending on the piece. Listening to the pieces as they set the scene to a harrowing story of survival during the Holocaust is overwhelming and at times soul-wrenching.


3

Cinderella 1950 | Oliver Wallace & Paul J. Smith

4

The Prince of Egypt

5

Atonement

Anyone who knows me, knows that of course there would be a Disney film on this list. How could I leave out Disney? I grew up with them as a kid, and even as an adult, I thoroughly enjoy going back and watching them over and over (and, let’s be honest, singing along with them as well). Cinderella has always been my favorite Disney story and while I thoroughly enjoyed the live action remake and its score by Patrick Doyle, there is nothing like the original. “So This is Love,” sung by Ilene Woods, will always be one of my favorite love songs. The rest of the score features lively and playful music fitting of a Disney classic and songs that get stuck in your head, in a good a way. “Bibbidi Bobbidi Boo” was even nominated for Best Music, Original Song at the Academy Awards the year of its release. 1998 | Hans Zimmer & Stephen Schwartz

With a score by Hans Zimmer and songs by Stephen Schwartz, there was no way the soundtrack for the animated film The Prince of Egypt could go wrong. It has soft moments and then moments of musical grandeur that match the exquisite animation on screen. When I listen to The Prince of Egypt soundtrack, it almost doesn’t feel like music from a children’s animated film, but rather a large scale, live-action film of epic proportions. While most of the top name actors and actresses who voiced the characters opted not to sing—as is common in animated films—I won’t lie in saying I was surprised to discover that Ralph Fiennes (Ramses) and Michelle Pfieffer (Tzipporah) actually sang their own parts. “When You Believe” (performed in the movie by Pfieffer and Sally Dorwsky, but Whitney Houston and Mariah Carey on the single) went on to win Best Music, Original Song at that year’s Oscars, while the score was also nominated. 2007 | Dario Marianelli

The movie itself was heart-breakingly sad, but it feels even more so when backed by the haunting score created by Dario Marianelli. From the opening, which features a typewriter as part of the music’s melody, I knew this score was going to stay in mind long after the end credits. For me, the centerpiece of the score comes during the scene where the character Robbie finally arrives on the beaches of Dunkirk. The five-minute, one-take scene that follows is breath-taking in itself, as the camera seamlessly moves in and out of the chaos, zeroing in on details and then pulling out to highlight the enormity of the evacuation. But it is the music (“Elegy to Dunkirk”) that encapsulates the hopelessness and melancholy of the moment. The track by itself, divorced of the images it accompanies, generates a heaviness in my chest as the music causes my mind to wander to the darkest moments of my own life, conjuring grief, sorrow, and the emptiness that only comes after you’ve cried yourself into a void.

I’ve always found the score to A Beautiful Mind fascinating. The fast-paced, almost frenetic piano melodies and light and airy backing orchestra, combined with vocals provided by Charlotte Church, imbibe the music with a sense of wonder and curiosity mixed with tension, capturing the essence of the film: a brilliant mind at work and in conflict. Even when the music appears happy and airy, there is also a sense of something else going on just under the surface of the piece. James Horner said that, when creating the score, he used the idea of a kaleidoscope— patterns changing and moving quickly—so quickly that other patterns slowly emerge underneath. He added that he used the piano melody and Church’s voice to create these patterns within the score.

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6

A Beautiful Mind 2001 | James Horner


music

7

O Brother Where Art Thou? 2000 | produced by T Bone Burnett

Listening to O Brother Where Art Thou? is kind of like going home in a way for me. Between growing up Southern Baptist and my family coming from the Ozark Mountains (hillbillies, as they affectionately call themselves), I listened to a lot of gospel, early folk, and country music. Thus, the album holds a warm place in my heart. Not to mention, it’s interesting to get into the soundtrack’s back story. Because it was to be a major component of the film, it was recorded before filming had even started. Many of the songs are Depression Era to fit the time period in which the film is set. It also features legendary bluegrass artist Ralph Stanley, his group The Stanley Brothers, and country singer Alison Krauss. While the use of pre-existing music disqualified it from the Oscars, it did win Album of the Year at the Grammys in 2002.

8

Arrival

2016 | Johan Johannsson

When I first discovered that Arrival was not nominated for Best Score at this year’s Oscars, I was a bit put out, considering I thought it way more worthy of nomination than other films that were (I’m looking at you, Jackie), even if it was deemed ineligible due to its use of sampling. However, that doesn’t detract from the fact it is a phenomenal and unique score. Composer Johan Johannsson creates a definitive, otherworldly essence within the music—fitting, considering the movie is about aliens coming to Earth—by using layers and layers of sound from the piano, cello, wind instruments, and vocals. There is a sense of fearful anticipation early in the film’s score that gets your heart pounding. But also, there are softer moments as well that amplify the joy of discovery and realization, whether it's scientific or just accepting things that will come no matter how difficult they may be.

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9

Moonlight 2016 | Nicholas Britell

While the score for the Academy Award-winning film is beautiful to listen to, its production deserves attention as well. Composer Nicholas Britell applies a music technique typically reserved for hip-hop— chopped and screwed—to orchestral music, leaving us with a strings and piano-heavy score that is as beautiful and tear-jerking as the overall film itself. The music is delicate and soft, in contrast with many of the harsh realities of Chiron’s life that take place on screen. Some, like “Little’s Theme,” which is later revisited in “Ending Credits,” create a sense of hope and, at times, childlike wonder.


10

The Village 2004 | James Newton Howard

I get that people either love or hate The Village, (personally I didn’t think it was that bad), but its saving grace is the score composed by James Newton Howard. It is simple, often relying on violin solos performed by Hilary Hahn with accompaniment on piano or 18th century instruments, if any at all. But it is that simplicity that makes the soundtrack so moving. While some of the pieces do work to heighten the scarier parts of the movie (“Those We Don’t Speak Of” and “It is Not Real”), it is the gentler pieces lead by delicate violin melodies that make the soundtrack interesting. It’s the hopeful tone in “What Are You Asking Me?” that turns slightly sinister at the end. It’s in the quiet anguish that paints “I Cannot See His Color.” Or the sanguine violin solo that ends “The Vote,” leaving you with a sense of comfort and encouragement.

11

Mad Max: Fury Road 2015 | Junkie XL

Where to even start with this score. It’s all horns, percussion, electric guitars, and just solid walls of sound that gets your heart racing and adrenaline rushing. Perfect for an epic, two hour long car race across the desert in a post-apocalyptic world. Composer Tom Holkenborg, a.k.a. Junkie XL, spent about a year working on the score for the latest instalment of the Mad Max series, performing all of the instruments himself except the strings and bass. The score heightens the intensity of the film itself, but it also carries the same intensity when just listening to it. Whether one wants to jump behind the wheel and take down war boys or just tackle a mountain of work at the office, Mad Max: Fury Road certainly ups productivity levels.

12

Titanic 1997 | James Horner

Here are some of the honorable mentions that almost made it to the final 12, in no particular order. Pirates of the Caribbean: Curse of the Black Pearl - Klaus Badelt/Hans Zimmer Pearl Harbor - Hans Zimmer / Split - West Dylan Thordson Lord of the Rings: The Fellowship of the Ring - Howard Shore Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers - Howard Shore Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King - Howard Shore Schindler’s List - John Williams / King Arthur - Hans Zimmer Braveheart - James Horner / Cinderella - Patrick Doyle Beauty and the Beast - Alan Menken / The Little Mermaid - Alan Menken Pocahontas - Alan Menken / Aladdin - Alan Menken Gladiator - Hans Zimmer/Lisa Gerrard / The Patriot - John Williams Memoir of a Geisha - John Williams / Skyfall - Thomas Newman

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As this was the first movie soundtrack I ever purchased at the age of 15 in 1998, I couldn’t not include Titanic on my list. Like many other teen girls at the time, I spent hours either listening to “My Heart Will Go On” or figuring how to play it on the piano (my teacher purchased the sheet music for me), all while wiping away a tear for Jack and Rose’s doomed love. Beyond my dramatic, adolescent attachment to the film, I have to admit that it was the first time I really noticed how music can move a story forward or enhance a scene. Rather than just being there for background purposes, the score was almost part of the story itself. James Horner’s work has left a big impression on me, from the thundering brass and percussion of “Death of Titanic” to the haunting melody of the flute and uilleann pipes that are heavily featured in “Never an Absolution” and “Hymn to the Sea.” With every film I have watched after this, I have become more and more sensitive to the role music played within the film.


t r A s e o G e v oo Gr Timeless beauty and fight against time Story by Barbara Bierbrauer Photo by Shelly Mosman

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der. The audience experiences the rise of a reack in 2009, as Barack Obama was volt, led by a vicious, dishonest, populist throne sworn in as the President of the pretender, that throws the country backwards; United States for the first time, his and the dark ages begin, visualizing the eternal inauguration ceremony was extraorcycle of history, that continues unchanged, undinary in its symbolism and signals. Four musiimpressed by ages and countries. cians came together to perform: Chinese-AmerHad enough of subtle political statements? ican cellist Yo-Yo Ma, Israeli-American violinist This month also offers a purely apolitical venItzhak Perlman, American clarinetist Anthony ue — traditionally performed in spring, the time McGill, and last but not least Venezuelan pianist of hanami and sakura, Madam Butterfly will be Gabriela Montero. Their performance brought performed by Liana Aleksanyan and Donata together different cultures, styles, ages, genders, D'A nnunzio Lombardi on the stage of the Opera and instruments; celebrating the unity of the naTheater. Love and betrayal, cowardice and hertion, celebrating hope and believe in “Yes we can!” oism, heartbreaking cruelty and beauty — there Eight years later, the next president of the United will be no better way to spend a weekend night States, who immediately became infamous, was than in an opera chair. accompanied by the Missouri State University Continuing the Japanese theme this month chorale and Mormon Tabernacle Choir, ringing in — one of the world’s most promthe beginning of a brave new world. inent Manga artists, the creator Now with the spring in its full Gabriele Montero of Space Battleship Yamato and power, fresh green has ousted the comes to Korea Space Pirate Captain Harlock, winter tristesse, and one gets the for the first manga master Leiji Matsumoto is great possibility to dive into the time, bringing presented by an exhibition dedimemories of hopes, spend some quite a unique cated to one of his most prominent time in melancholy, and enjoy the repertoire lifetime artworks — Galaxy Experformance of the same musician press 999. Leiji Matsumoto, now Barack Obama listened to back in 89 years old, is a living myth of Japanese manga 2009 — Gabriele Montero comes to Korea for the and animation, a legend of the Sci-Fi scene and first time, bringing quite a unique repertoire; first a philosopher who discusses the questions of Liszt and Brahms and then her own improvisalife, death, and the meaning of time. In Galaxy tions. She is famous for asking the audience to Express 999 he leads the audience from the pasparticipate, and if you are lucky, maybe you can sion for eternity to the understanding that the get the chance to experience her improvising on limits of time, that are set to us all, are the most something from the Harry Potter soundtrack precious gift to be praised and acknowledged. or Gershwin's “Summertime,” and experience The time is not our foe but a friend, who, when firsthand the birth of magic that doubtlessly is treated wisely, makes us better human beings. her exceptional performances. With bird songs getting louder and louder in Leiji Matsumoto Exhibition: the parks and forests, some fantastic voices are Galaxy Express 999 also coming to visit Seoul. April is the month of when March 18 - April 01 opera, with two excellent performances on our where Hangaram Art Museum stages — Boris Godunov and Madam Butterfly. Boris Godunov Boris Godunov, an opera by Russian composwhen April 20 - April 23 er Modest Mussorgsky, is tragic, monumental, where SAC Opera Theater powerful and thrilling. Yet somehow incredibly Madam Butterfly trendy. The story of Boris Godunov, a Russian when April 28 – April 30 where SAC Opera Theater tsar who reigned in the 16th century, is the story of a talented and dedicated politician who Gabriele Montero lacked a legitimization, and so came into power when April 21 where LG Arts Center Seoul by intrigues, bribes, promises, and conspiracy. Although Russia flourishes during his reign, and he is believed to be one of the most notable Barbara Bierbrauer is a German reporter reformers in Russian imperial history, his reign and writer. She enjoys living in Songdo IFEZ and checks was interrupted by foes and accusations of murdifferent venues for the readers of Groove Korea


Korean Movie Preview: April

Hauntings, Hoardings, and Hospitals Story by Gil Coombe Photos courtesy of HanCinema

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lmost four months into the year, and Korea has already found its first homegrown box office hit with Confidential Assignment (the USD 55 million or so it has made at the time of writing would be enough to have placed the North Korean spy action-comedy fourth on the 2016 charts), Kim Min-hee won Best Actress at the Berlin International Film Festival for On the Beach at Night Alone (previewed here last issue), and news has come out that Netflix is planning a Korean theatrical release in late June for Okja, Bong Joon-ho’s much anticipated follow-up to Snowpiercer. Hopefully riding on the wave of all these good tidings are the following three April releases: one horror-mystery, one sturdy big-budget star vehicle, and one melancholic ghost story.

One Day

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Release date April 5, 2017 Directed by Lee Yoon-ki Starring Kim Nam-gil, Chun Woo-hee, Lim Hwa-young, Jung Soon-won Distributed by Opus Pictures, CGV Arthouse

Lee Yoon-ki, who started his directorial career in a rush with four films in his first five years (his debut, This Charming Girl remains a high-water mark for Korean independent film-making) has slowed a little since then, with One Day only his third film in eight years, following last year’s indifferently received A Man and a Woman. Spe-

cializing in low-key slices of life (often with a touch of romance), Lee’s latest seems to be a minor departure, marrying his typical interest in strong female characters a little adrift in their lives with, well, ghosts. The always excellent Chun Woo-hee (The Wailing, Han Gong-Ju) plays Mi-so, the apparition in question who pops up unexpectedly at her own hospital bedside to see herself in a vegetative state and scares the hell out of Gang-soo (Kim Nam-gil, hopefully turning the shouting down a bit after Pandora), an insurance examiner assigned to her case. Gang-soo is a victim of sorts too, desperately trying to bounce back from the death of

his wife. Time will tell whether being the only person to be able to see Mi-so, and being tasked with helping her achieve her last wish, will pull him out of his despair. It sounds a little predictable, and the trailer does nothing to dispel this suspicion, with its mix of golden-hour lensing, comic bumbling with invisible ghosts, and totally inevitable tears. But Lee is the reason to see this; if he can recreate the genuine emotion of his debut, then this could be a pleasant piece of counter-programming to the big-budget action and historical dramas coming down the pipeline later this year.

Film fans - remember to check The Korean Film Council (KOFIC) website regularly for updates on English subtitled screenings of Korean films occurring in Seoul. (www.koreanfilm.or.kr/jsp/schedule/subtitMovie. jsp) Also, don’t forget to support the independent cinemas around Seoul KU Cinematrap(www.kucinetrap.kr), Seoul Art Cinema(www.cinematheque.seoul.kr), CGV Arthouse(www.cgv.co.kr/arthouse), Emu Artspace(emuartspace.com/


Release date April 26, 2017 Directed by Park In-Je Starring Choi Min-sik, Kwak Do-won, Shim Eun-kyung, Moon So-ri Distributed by Showbox

Recent big-budget Korean political/legal movies with big star turns are in a bit of a slump at the moment; Master was a crashing bore, mired in tired conversations about bank accounts and pyramid schemes and forgetting to include a plot that made a lick of sense, while Asura: City of Madness squandered a rare non-somnolent performance by Jung Woo-sung, and a wonderful lesson in scenery-chewing by Hwang Jung-min and Kwak Do-won, with its descent into ridiculously over-the-top violence. Hopefully The Mayor is able to turn it around and provide something worth savoring. Certainly, it helps that it is headlined by (in this writer’s opinion) Korea’s best actor, Choi Min-sik, who plays Byun Jong-goo, two-term mayor of Seoul angling for his third. Choi’s masterpiece is still Oldboy, but he was his commanding self in his last outing, the melancholic and underrated The Tiger, and so he is sure to anchor the picture on a scene-by-scene basis. The aforementioned Kwak Do-won also makes an appearance here, looking to maintain the momentum that has seen him land a number of high profile roles in recent years (including his deft balancing act between clownishness and anguish in The Wailing) as the mayor’s advisor. Also, look out for the always welcome Moon So-ri (Oasis, A Good Lawyer’s Wife), who has been somewhat wasted in recent years in a series of bit parts, as a political reporter covering the election. The trailer doesn’t give much away; the movie appears to be mainly concerned with the campaign trail itself, with the mayor finding both adulation and anger as he travels around Seoul, but it would be surprising, giving the current political climate, if it doesn’t take a hard look at the backroom deals that fuel Korean politics. Director Park In-je’s only other film is the conspiracy-minded journalism thriller Moby Dick from back in 2011, so it will be interesting to see how he handles his return to the director’s chair and the charisma of Korea’s one true movie star.

House of the Disappeared Release date April 6, 2017 Directed by Lim Dae-Woong Starring Kim Yunjin, Taec-yeon, Jo Jae-yun Distributed by Little Big Pictures

With spring in the air, and summer soon to arrive, we can expect to see the number of Korean horror films appearing in the local multiplexes to increase, given the Korean tradition of programming movies that will give you the chills as the country swelters. So consider House of the Disappeared something of an advanced guard in this respect. Kim Yunjin, taking a break from Mistresses to return to Korean theaters with her first big-screen film since the smash hit Ode to my Father, plays Mi-hee, a wife and mother who has been incarcerated for 25 years for the murder of her husband (Jo Jae-yun) and who is still haunted by the disappearance of her son. Upon her release she finds herself back in the house where it all happened and, with the help of a priest who believes she is innocent (played by 2PM’s rapper Taec-yeon, for whom this is only his second movie after the ensemble Marriage Blue), she confronts the malevolent spirits that may have been responsible for it all. Directed by Lee Dae-woong (To Sir With Love) and written by Jang Jae-hyun (who directed The Priests, which made good coin back in 2015), the plot and the trailer share a remarkable resemblance to the Venezuelan smash hit The House at the End of Time, suggesting that it is a remake of sorts, though this does not seem to have been mentioned in the press surrounding the film. Regardless of its origins, hopefully this is better than Kim Yunjin’s last foray into Korean thriller territory The Neighbors, which was one of the worst Korean movies I have seen. She certainly has the talent to pull off the aging make-up look, so here’s hoping she has the support of a decent script and some well-lensed scares, and that the first major scarefest of 2017 does the job expected of it.

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The Mayor


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ix years into its reign as the undisputed holder of the title of “best sandwich in Korea,” Casablanca can scarcely be described any longer as Haebangchon’s best-kept secret; the word is well and truly out. Such has been their success that owner Wahid Naciri has long craved the opportunity to spread his wings a bit and branch out from the variety of sandwiches that form the backbone of Casablanca’s menu. Morococo Café is the result, and it’s a great pleasure to visit. Morococo Café was conceived as a relaxed, coffee house-like counterpart to the more functional Casablanca. In its early days, the menu is tightly focused on tagines, the Berber dish named for the distinctive clay

Of all the tagine joints in all the towns in all the world… Story by Andy Hume Photos by Christopher Saint Germain

cooked and just falling off the bone. Anothpots in which the food is cooked and served. er dish that demands some carbs to soak up The lamb kofta tagine (11,000 KRW) is a dish the delectable juices, this dish is of meatballs in an aromatic toalso offered for a very reasonmato sauce laced with ras el haable 11,000 KRW and will fill nout, a fragrant Moroccan spice For those who are all but the hungriest of diners. mix, and finished off with an egg long-time fans Groove falls into that category cracked into the middle of the of Casablanca, and so we ordered a side salad bubbling liquid. It’s a dish which or new visitors, to go with the meal, but what will be immediately familiar this could be we got was anything but an afthe beginning to aficionados of Casablanca’s of a beautiful terthought. Morococo’s salad shakshukas, and with a serving friendship of caramelized plums, toasted of spiced pilaf-like rice or sliced almonds and chermoula-spiced bread to mop up the sauce, it’s carrots is arguably the pick of very satisfying. their dishes and for many people will be a There’s also a tagine of chicken served meal in itself. A fantastic combination of colup in a citrusy-sharp sauce with olives and ors, flavors, and textures, it’s one of the most preserved lemon, the chicken leg perfectly


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he owner of Casablanca and Morococo Café, Wahid Naciri, talked to Groove about Moroccan food, HBC, and his future plans…

Opening up Casablanca, a place selling only Moroccan sandwiches, must have seemed a gamble, especially in the Haebangchon of 2010? I studied cooking, so I can say that I do know about Moroccan food. But in fact our original concept for Casablanca wasn’t to specialize in sandwiches—we started off with that, fully intending over time to offer a wider range of dishes from my home country, but they were so popular and sold so well that we ended up becoming known for our sandwiches.

Add Yongsan-gu, Yongsan-dong 2-ga 45-9 Tel 02-794-8367 hours 12:00 - 10pm, Closed Mondays.

What is the concept of Morococo Café, and where do you plan to take it in the future? In Marrakech, the city back home that I probably know best, there’s been a real trend recently for informal cafes that serve unpretentious but interesting food, good coffee, in a relaxed atmosphere. After dark, people have a few drinks, there’s a bit of music, it’s a place to stay and chat. That’s the inspiration for Morococo Café—I hope we’ll surprise people with the food, but everything is informal, not expensive, for people to sit and enjoy with friends. A lot of people expected you to go down the route of opening a second Casablanca, but you didn’t do that. Actually, it’s a funny story. I was in Casablanca on a Monday when it was closed, just checking up on the stock and making sure everything was okay, which I like to do. The lady from the next door real estate office put her head round the door and told me that the shop opposite was going to be available and I should snap it up quickly. Ten minutes later the deal was done. It pays to come in on your day off… If you didn’t run a restaurant, what would you be doing? Honestly, I’d be happy to have a shop selling Moroccan carpets and teas. That would be a dream retirement for me. But precious carpets and fine teas, of course!

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interesting and distinctive salads you’ll find in Korea, especially for the asking price of 6,000 KRW. Apart from the food menu, which will expand over the coming months to include more salads, tagines and light meals, there’s also a selection of tea and coffee—including Morocco’s take on the latte, nos nos coffee, in three varieties—as well as a terrific cheesecake. After dark, the small space fills up with a new wave of customers, the lampshades spreading their dappled pattern of light and shadow across the walls, and the café takes on an entirely new and more funky atmosphere in which the range of beers and wines by the glass (5,000 KRW) will look more enticing as the evening goes on. Morococo Café is a small spot and tables fill up fast. It’s probably a place for a light meal and glass of wine with a couple of friends rather than a group blow-out, but it’s the sort of warm, friendly, small-scale place that fits perfectly into the new, evolving Haebangchon. For those who are longtime fans of Casablanca, or new visitors, this could be the beginning of a beautiful friendship.

What’s your take on HBC and the way it’s changed over the years? You’re right that it’s changed a lot—back then, after 7 or 8pm it was pretty dead and there weren’t any young people visiting for the food or cafés. To me, the great thing about HBC is that it’s a place where a young restaurant owner or chef can have an idea and make it happen. Itaewon and Gyeongnidan are so expensive and almost saturated these days, but you can still come to HBC with an idea of how you want to make food and have a chance of succeeding. The crucial thing is that you offer something for the people who live locally.


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Get Fisted

Maloney's Pub & Grill brings Boston-Irish attitude with no apologies or compromise Story by Rob Shelley Photos by Robert Michael Evans


other or are just beginning to. And at the center of it all is the eponymous Brendan Maloney.

also the spirit of Maloneys. One employee suggested using the Charming, fastmotto “Get Fisted,” which would talking, and foulhave been as Maloney’s as one mouthed, Brendan can get. The Legend is a masterBut if the Maloney’s concept Charming, fast-talking, and storyteller and is Boston, what’s with the fists foul-mouthed, Brendan is a masthe core of what and the Irish references? Brenter-storyteller and the core of makes Maloney’s what makes Maloney’s the de the de facto home dan gives a history lesson. “Boston is where a lot of the facto home away from home for away from home Irish immigrants came to. Bamany expats in Seoul. Hailing for many expats sically, in Boston you had the from Boston, Brendan Maloney in Seoul. Hailing downtown area which was facbrings a special attitude that from Boston, tories at the time. You had the not only embodies the bar, but Brendan Maloney North end where the Italians also his brewing company, also brings a special live. And you had the South named Maloneys. attitude that not end—Southie—and that was Maloney’s craft beers— only embodies where the Irish immigrants Southie Irish Red Ale, Combat the bar, but lived. And the two would fight Zone IPA, and the new Whitey’s also his brewing company... for the factories jobs. And they're Black Irish Ale—all harken back both still there. They have great to Boston. “The reason why we pizza in the North end and great chose the concept of Boston,” bars in the South end.” Brendan explains, “Boston's a kind of tough town to grow up in, so our beers are kind of rough. They're high in alcohol. They're high The Beer in hop content. So our idea originally was to Brendan’s beer recipe savant is the homehave nothing less than 6% abv. That's why we brewing legend Bill Miller. “Bill's, he's our also have the fist, you know, the punch in your recipe guy, and he doesn't give a f*&%. He's tastebuds.” The fist he speaks of is the shape just gonna make the beers that he likes and of the tap-handle for all Maloney’s beers, and that's it.” I asked Bill about his newest beer,

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perating since 2011, Maloney’s Pub & Grill is a Seoul expat institution. Located in hip, gentrified Kyungridan—where fads burn bright before flicking out, and the fortunes of businesses revolve like Pat Sajak’s infamous wheel—Maloney’s stays refreshingly unchanged. Walk through the door, take a seat at the bar, and you might notice the new Hall of Fame nameplates honoring Maloney's regulars. Or plaques celebrating those who’ve chugged the fastest pint of Guinness and eaten the most hot wings. Maybe the foosball table or electronic dart board. The setting is pure Irish-American, but the modest version. Not like how Canucks in Itaewon does Canada, all glossy and kitsch, but like one’s favorite working-class pub back home. Perhaps the most noticeable feature is the quiet music and buzz of English conversation at the bar. Nearby, a pair of Koreans, looking to indulge in some hip Yongsan trends, sit in the corner and politely eat their American-style hamburgers and sip their craft beers, silently stealing glances at the strange exhibit at the bar. A row of foreign men—it’s almost certain to be all men, of all ages—flowing in and out of conversation amongst themselves and with everyone else. It’s as if everyone knows each


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the Whitey’s Black Irish Ale—which Brendan says is partially named after the nefarious Boston gangster Whitey Bulger. Bill is notorious himself for pushing hops. Despite being labelled an Irish Red Ale, the Southie is more like a red rye IPA. The Combat Zone is perhaps the most hop-forward IPA brewed in South Korea. So what about the Whitey’s Black Irish Ale? I asked Bill if his dark beer is also aggressively hopped. “Yes, of course,” he answered. “There's a lot of Columbus hops. We call it a Black Irish Ale, but amongst us beer people it's really a robust porter. A highly hopped robust porter. It's basically a black IPA.” Upon tasting it I immediately noticed rye malt, which impacts a spiciness, and some dark caramel malt, along with chocolate malt. It really hits you as a flavor bomb: chocolatey, spicy, caramel, and hoppy. Bill refused to add any roasted barley, which is often used to give a dark beer its bitter, roasty, almost smoky flavor. “Ultimately,” Bill added, “what I want to made is a beer that tastes like a dark chocolate bar. In this case I'm getting as close to it as I can with what I have available. You've tasted that 80% dark cocoa chocolate? That's kind of what I Boston's a kind going for.” There was definitely of tough town to some chocolate flavor there, but I grow up in, so our wondered what kind of chocolate beers are kind of bar has that hop burst. Bill must rough. They're have considered this as well. He high in alcohol. soon added, “I don't want it to They're high in taste like chocolate per se, behop content. cause I also want it to have a hop So our idea component.” Without that hop originally was punch to the tastebuds, it simply to have nothing couldn’t be a Maloney’s beer. less than 6% And so Maloneys will conabv. That's why tinue, both the bar and the beer, we also have the in much the same fashion as befist, you know, fore. I asked Brendan if he had the punch in your ever been tempted to remodel his tastebuds. bar, go upscale, or follow one of - Brendan Maloney the Itaewon/Kyungnidan trends. Maybe serve churros? Clean, chrome and glass, minimalistic decor? Craft beer served with pizza? Not likely, according to Brendan. “My whole philosophy is just to go steady. Churros is like this [big thing] and then there's nothing. There's huge lines there before; and what's there now? Nothing. It's boring. Now it's those claw machine places. Nah. Slow and steady. Just keep it going.” If it was any other way, it simply couldn’t be Maloneys. Add 225-67 Itaewon 2-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Seoul Hours M-F 6pm-3am; Sat noon-5am; Sun noon-1am tel 02-3785-1675


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FOOD & DRINK

The Guts of the Night Inside the insides of Korean cuisine Story by Jordan Redmond Photos by Robert Michael Evans


Nose-to-tail eating is not a bloodlust, testosterone-fueled offal hunt. It's common sense and it's all good stuff - Fergus Henderson

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n any given night in Korea, people are eating and enjoying animal intestines. Not just Andrew Zimmern-style food masochists but everyone. The stereotypical salaryman tucking into tubular gopchang. A pair of stylish 20-something women with glittery fingernails gleefully devouring daechang. A family with elementary school kids smacking aloud on the chewy makchang. Perhaps nowhere else in the world does such a wide swathe of society enjoy innards on such a regular basis. However, it shouldn't be that way. Rising incomes often cause a culture to break with the less glamorous aspects of its own food past. Kind of like how people lose touch with old friends and favorites as they climb the social ladder, all too often what was a cheap, delicious source of protein is forgotten due to its social moorings or simply its smell. Luckily, Korea, temporally still very close to an impoverished past but culturally light years removed from the hunger of the 1950's, has not forgotten that an animal, when killed for human consumption, should be used to the utmost. Establishments focusing on the nasty bits populate nearly as much after-dusk scenery as samgyeobsal or galbi. You don't even have to look too hard. Let your nose guide you. That almost-buttery waft of grilled meat like a siren's call? You've found it. Most innards spots offer up the holy trinity of daechang, gopchang, and makchang which originate from either a cow or a pig. You can usually tell which one is being served based on the price or the prevalence of other pork or beef products on the menu. Daechang is the large intestine and has a greater circumference than the others. Usually it will look like it is trying to fit too much girth into a too tiny t-shirt. Gopchang is the small intestine and looks like daechang's better-kempt younger brother. You will find it in stews or on the grill. Makchang is the maw or final stomach compartment of the cow which is also used in the production of rennet. These are your basics. Your order will almost certainly be accompanied by gan (liver) and yang (tripe) both in their raw forms. Restaurants do this to show off how fresh their meat is. You can cook it or just eat it "just" with a quick dunk into sesame oil. Yeontong or heart might also make an appearance. If so, get it. It grills up in a wonderfully steaky manner. The great thing about eating offal in Korea is that you can scale up or down to fit your budget or mood. There's the dwaeji gopchang jeongol local or the high end place specializing in Hanwoo beef parts. The following are three favorites that you should check out if you have the guts.


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Gombawi Gombawi is the gold standard for Korean offal restaurants. Situated in an unassuming alley near COEX but always surrounded by Beamers, Benzs, and Bentleys, this is where you can experience the best intestines Korea has to offer. The restaurant serves only grass-fed Korean beef and is rather discerning about what it puts on the table. In fact, the restaurant has been known to not serve grilled gopchang because what they are able to procure wasn't up to their own high standards. Almost 35 years of serving high-end nose-to-tail beef dinners don't lie: these folks know their stuff. Your options at Gombawi are boundless. Less adventurous eaters might be shocked at how palatable the beef tongue is. Cut into thin medallions, the tongue meat cooks up in a blink. The result is undeniably beefy with a bit of an offaly twang but without the chewiness one usually gets with beef tongue. The beef heart here is another winner. It comes in crescents like red-tinted cantaloupe slices. Again, close your eyes and you're having a steak albeit one with a little more mystery in every bite. Yanggit meoli arrives on your table like an unexpected guest although perhaps one you simply forgot you invited to the party and now you wish maybe you hadn't. It's the muscle that cows use during regurgitation and it's sinewy texture indicates it does a lot of work.

Despite its alien appearance, the taste is rather bland and, dare I say, tastes a little like chicken. However, as it does so much work for the bovine stomach, the rule of transitive properties dictates that it's a great diet aid. The two biggest hits at Gombawi are the daechang and beef tataki rolls. Daechang doesn't usually come marinated like it does here, the reason likely being if more places served it as such society would grind to a halt. The term miyak or drug is often thrown around when describing addictive food in Korea. Here, it's not an exaggeration. The outside caramelizes and sticks to your teeth as the hot, fatty daechang interior rushes into your mouth. The beef tataki, while not an odd bit, is made of 1+ hanwoo beef. The meat comes cold with a bunch of julienned vegetables which you're supposed to roll up into something that tastes like an outstanding carb-friendly roast beef sandwich. You can order fantastic, high-grade beef here but the insides are why folks keep coming back to Gombawi.d. Add Gangnam-gu, Yeongdongdae-ro 115-gil 10 tel 02 552 7761 / Valet parking hours Mon to Fri 11am-12am / Sat and Sun 11am-10pm

The term mAyak or drug is often thrown around when describing addictive food in Korea. Here, it's not an exaggeration. The outside caramelizes and sticks to your teeth as the hot, fatty daechang interior rushes into your mouth.


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Nose-to-tail eating is not a bloodlust, testosterone-fueled offal hunt. It's common sense and it's all good stuff

If Gombawi is the place you go to experience the best, Jangdari is where you go for the comfortable, the kind of neighborhood joint that you slip down to in a pair of worn athletic shorts because all you want is some hot meat and cold beer without going too far from your apartment. In this case, your apartment would be near Yaksu Station at the nexus of lines 3 & 6. The place has the feel of a cozy log cabin albeit one with lots of sizzling, popping intestines in cast iron pans. The restaurant's small dimensions make you get in close with whomever you're dining with and even those you're not. On a Friday night, there will be families sitting in the tarp-tented outdoor area, couples on third dates, and friends just having an easy bite. When in doubt, it's always best to go with the first things on the menu. Here, of course, the menu holds up closer to heaven the gopchang, daechang, makchang trio. Amazingly, toast comes with your meal. The restaurant mostly uses it to sponge the grease out of your pan and then dispose of the soaked bread. But if you want and you demand it with enough gusto, they will let you keep what has now become the most delicious piece of fried toast in the entire world. Come to Jangdari for that, if nothing else. Add Jung-gu, Dongho-ro 7-gil13-6 tel 02 2234 2220 hours Everyday 3pm-2am

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Jangdari


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FOOD & DRINK

Sinchon Hwangso Gopchang It sits in a fantastic location to indulge in some great people watching. Sinchon Hwangso Gopchang is the essence of a great gopchang restaurant in scent and every other way imaginable. Concrete floors. Round metal tables and no-nonsense plastic stools. The sense that it only comes alive after dark. The first iteration of this restaurant opened 60 years ago in Sinchon but this one, a healthy branch of the original, has been open for a mere 20. It sits in a fantastic location to indulge in some fantastic people watching. With a narrow veranda perched right on the street of Seolleung's leery salaryman mecca, the gnarled gopchang won't be the only amazing thing you see over the course of your meal. All beef here is of Korean origin. An amazing fact considering the prices are more than reasonable for the location and Korean beef's notoriously steep cost. The table is set with doenjang jjigae, crudite, garlic and spicy peppers with ssamjang, and the aforementioned raw liver and tripe. Yes, they did forget to cook that and you should be glad. Try the raw liver for its creaminess and receive a trophy. Its offal at its purest. Cooking it is nice too, letting the crimson cubes brown on the outside while the inside is still a bit undercooked. The tripe would make a nice tether but is a fun texture. Besides, what isn't good after being dragged through salt and sesame oil? Ordering both gopchang and daechang is the way to go here. The daechang is usually bursting at the seams. The meat arrives in a deep iron pot segregated from a large bundle of buchu or chives, green vegetable accoutrement which will eventually lose its crunchiness and submit to the surrounding pool of grease. The pan may pop and spit so take full advantage of the provided aprons and do heed the staff's advice to put your coats and bags in the large plastic sack that they provide. You'll get the go-ahead on the gopchang first as the thicker bits will take longer to cook but don't fill up too soon. The daechang is a huge payoff. The way the hot fatty interior rushes out into your mouth, just hot enough for the briefest discomfort, is the stuff of unbridled addiction. You should finish off your meal with bokkeumbap or fried rice which is cooked in the leftovers from your grill-up. Heaven is a place on Earth and it will arrive at your table about five minutes after they take your iron pot back to the kitchen. Add Gangnam-gu, Seolleung-ro 86-gil 32 tel 02 553 6698 hours Everyday 2pm-3am


71 www.groovekorea.com April 2017


LISTINGS

HOTELS & RESORTS

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS

FAMILY & KIDS

American Embassy (02) 397-4114 • 188 Sejong-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Novotel Ambassador Gangnam (02) 567-1101 • 603 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Seoul Samsung Hospital 1599-3114 • 50 Irwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Canadian Embassy (02) 3783-6000 • (613) 996-8885 (Emergency Operations Center) Jeongdonggil (Jeong-dong) 21, Jung-gu, Seoul

Grand Hilton Seoul (02) 3216-5656 • 353 Yeonhui-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

Asan Medical Center 1688-7575 • 88 Olympic-ro 43-gil, Songpa-gu, Seoul

Somerset Palace Seoul (02) 6730-8888 • 85 Susong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Keimyung University Dongsan Medical Center (053) 250-7167 (7177 / 7187) • 56 Dalseong-ro, Jung-gu, Daegu

EMBASSIES

British Embassy (02) 3210-5500 • Sejong-daero 19-gil 24, Jung-gu, Seoul Australian Embassy (02) 2003-0100 • 19th fl, Kyobo bldg., 1 Jongno 1-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul Philippine Embassy (02) 796-7387~9 • 5-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Spanish Embassy (02) 794-3581 • 726-52 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul French Embassy (02) 3149-4300 • 30 Hap-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

HOTELS & RESORTS

72 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul (02) 2250-8080 • San 5-5, Jangchung-dong 2-ga Jung-gu, Seoul

Park Hyatt Seoul (02) 2016-1244 • 606 Teheran-ro, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Lotte Hotel Busan (051) 810-1000 • 772 Gaya-daero, Busanjin-gu, Busan Park Hyatt Busan (051) 990-1244 • 51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan 612-824, Korea

Airlines Korean Air 1588-2001 Asiana Airlines 1588-8000 Lufthansa (02) 2019-0180 Garuda Indonesia (02) 773-2092 • garuda-indonesia.co.kr

EMERGENCY MEDICAL CENTERS Jeju Air 1599-1500 Gangnam St-Mary’s Hospital 1588-1511 • 222 Banpo-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul

T’way Air 1688-8686

Yonsei Severance Hospital (Sinchon) (02) 2227-7777 • 50 Yonsei-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul

British Airways (02) 774-5511

Seoul National University Hospital 1339 • 28-2 Yeongeon-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Delta Airlines (02) 754-1921

Jin Air 1600-6200

Yongsan Intl. School (02) 797-5104 • San 10-213 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Seoul Intl. School (031) 750-1200 • 388-14 Bokjeong-dong, Sujeong-gu, Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do Branksome Hall Asia (02) 6456-8405 • Daejung-eup, Seogipo-si, Jeju Island Daegu Intl. School (053) 980-2100 • 1555 Bongmu-dong, Dong-gu, Daegu

Dulwich College Seoul Dulwich College Seoul offers an exemplary British-style international education (including IGCSE and IBDP) for over 600 expatriate students aged 2 to 18 from over 40 different countries. 6 Sinbanpo-ro 15-gil, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea. www.dulwich-seoul.kr admissions@dulwich-seoul.kr 02-3015-8500

Cathay Pacific Airways (02) 311-2700

Emirates Airlines (02) 2022-8400

D ETUR

PO NS MU

NDO


HEALTH Eton House Prep (02) 749-8011 • 68-3 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul A unique British-style Prep School for children of all nationalities from 2-13 years of age. A broad, challenging and innovative curriculum preparing pupils for senior school and life beyond. / www.etonhouseprep.com

Animal hospitals

AMUSEMENT PARKS

National Museum of Korea (02) 2077-9000 • 168-6 Yongsandong 6-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul The NMK offers educational programs on Korean history and culture in English and Korean.

Lotte World (02) 411-2000 0 • 240 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu, Seoul Pororo Park (D-Cube city) 1661-6340 • 360-51 Sindorim-dong, Guro-gu, Seoul Children’s Grand Park (zoo) (02) 450-9311 • 216 Neungdong-ro, Gwangjin-gu, Seoul Seoul Zoo (02) 500-7338 • 159-1 Makgye-dong, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do BOOKSTORES What the Book? (02) 797-2342 • 176-2, Itaewon 1-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul • whatthebook.com Located in Itaewon, this English bookstore has new books, used books and children’s books. Kim & Johnson 1566-0549 • B2 fl-1317-20 Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul

HEALTH ORIENTAL MEDICINE Lee Moon Won Korean Medicine Clinic (02) 511-1079 • 3rd fl., Lee&You bldg. 69-5 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Specializes in hair loss and scalp problems and offers comprehensive treatments and services including aesthetic and hair care products. Soseng Clinic (02) 2253-8051 • 368-90 Sindang 3-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul FITNESS Exxl Fitness Gangnam Finance Center, 737 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul • www.exxl.co.kr UROLOGY & OB Sewum Urology (02) 3482-8575 • 10th fl., Dongil bldg., 429 Gangnam-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul Tower Urology (02) 2277-6699 • 5th fl. 119 Jongno 3-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul DENTAL CLINIC Boston Dental Clinic General dentistry / Periodontics / Orthodontics (02) 3482-0028 • 92-12 5F, Banpo 4-dong (Seorae French Village), Seocho-gu, Seoul

MUSEUM & GALLERIES

National Palace Museum of Korea (02) 3701-7500 • 12 Hyoja-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul This museum has a program called Experiencing Royal Culture designed for English teachers to help learn about Joseon royal culture. Seodaemun Museum of Natural History (02) 330-8899 • 141-52 Yeonhui-dong, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul Don’t know where to take your kids on weekends? This museum exhibits a snapshot of the world and animals. National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea (02) 2188-6000 • 313 Gwangmyeong-ro, Gwacheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Leeum Samsung Museum of Art (02) 2014-6901• 747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays. Kumho Museum (02) 720-5114 • 78 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays. Gallery Hyundai (02) 734-6111~3 • 22 Sagan-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul The first specialized art gallery in Korea and accommodates contemporary art. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Mondays, New Year’s Day, Lunar New Year and Chuseok holidays. Plateau (02) 1577-7595 • 50 Taepyung-ro 2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul 10 a.m.-6 p. m. Closed on Mondays. National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Seoul (MMCA SEOUL) (02) 3701-9500 • 30 Samcheong-ro, Sogyeok-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Daegu Art Museum (053) 790-3000 • 374 Samdeok-dong, Suseong-gu, Daegu Art space for local culture presenting Daegu’s contemporary fine arts and internationally renowned artists.

Hair & Joy Trained at Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon Academy in UK Color, Perm, Magic Straight, Treatment and more English Spoken For more info, call Johnny Tel 02.363.4253 Mobile 010.5586.0243 3rd fl. 168-3 Donggyo-dong, Mapo-gu Hair & Joy

www.hairandjoy.com

Lotte Cinema Samsung Plaza

Qunohair Gangnam / Apgujeong Branch Tel 02.549.0335 10-6, Dosan-daero 45-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul www.qunohair.com

8

73 www.groovekorea.com April 2017

Everland Resort (031) 320-5000 • 310 Jeondae-ri, Pogok-eup, Cheoin-gu, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do

Chunghwa Animal Hospital / Korea Animal Transport (02) 792-7602 • 21-1 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul / www.cwhospital.com

Hongik Univ. Station

Line #2


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Groove Korea 2017 April  

Jeonju, Jeonju International Film Festival, Jeonju IFF, President Park Geun-hye impeachment, Gopchang tour, This is what Democracy in Korea...

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