Michigan BLUE Winter 2024 by Grand Rapids Magazine

MICHIGAN BLUE WINTER 2024

Embrace the Season’s Magic Exhilarating Explorations

EMBRACE THE SEASON’S MAGIC

Learn to mush | Book a storybook inn Pitch a winter tent | Sled some dunes Catch a speedy ski lift | Stir up some soup PLUS: An up-close look at two stunning vacation homes GET OUT THERE! Lighthouse-hopping in winter

$5.95 WINTER 2024 MIBLUEMAG.COM

VOLUME 19, NUMBER 1

Exactly where you should be.

When you’re true to who you are, you’re true to where you are. Come join us. TraverseCity.com TraverseCityTour.Spread.BLUE.Wi24.indd MI BLUE Winter 2024.indd 2 1

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View more photos of Molly’s home!

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Meet Molly Eastbrook homeowner Molly and her family make the most of every holiday season by intentionally carving out time to create and soak up treasured Christmas memories. Her welcoming home invites family and friends in from the cold with a light-filled, open floor plan, enchanting fireplace, and well-appointed family room.

What does “Home for the Holidays” mean to you? Home for the Holidays for us means taking the time to make memories of the special moments the holiday season brings for your family and to soak up the precious moments with all of our loved ones.

Join in as we learn more about Molly’s family-focused holiday traditions, home plan features, and favorite ways to spread holiday cheer.

What is your favorite Christmas tradition? Our favorite family tradition is making our homemade Christmas ornaments. The kids get so excited and we get to look back on the sweetest moments for years to come. How would you describe your Christmas decor style? We have a neutral cozy Christmas style. We want it to be warm and inviting for all our loved ones but with a modern feel.

616-226-3891 | EastbrookHomes.com

Are you ready to begin your Home Building Journey?

What is your favorite feature in your home, and why? We feature a warm fireplace and open areas so everyone can come and mingle and celebrate Christmas in a space that feels warm and festive. What home plan did you build or buy? We built The Taylor home plan because we love the open feeling, the large bar for entertaining, and the upper-level laundry. What’s your favorite way to spread holiday cheer? We love to donate to Toys for Tots by doing a day of shopping for them and or adopting a family.

Download our Free Interactive Home Building Guide Today!

If you’re interested in learning more about building or buying new with Eastbrook Homes, our team is here to help. Reach out today with your questions and dreams, and we’ll help turn them into a reality.

Happy Holidays from Eastbrook Homes!

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The Alpena, MI region is base-camp for exploring Northeastern Lower Michigan. A modern city at nature’s doorstep, Alpena is your Sanctuary of the Great Lakes, a place to recharge and rejuvenate, miles away from the weight of the world. 100+ miles of groomed trails for hiking, biking, snowshoeing, and nordic skiing 1,000+ miles of shorelines for access to ice �shing 3 Dark Sky Preserve Parks for astronomy and astrophotography 43,000 acres of State forest land for exploring 7 Lake Huron lighthouses and a few ghost stories 35+ Outdoor art installations intertwined with museums, restaurants & boutique shopping along the City of Alpena 18-mile Bi-Path 100+ shipwrecks to discover More than a dozen publicly viewable sinkholes 400+ million-year-old Devonian Period fossil expedition

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Photo: Portland shipwreck by Joel Marotti and Chase Gagnon for Alpena Area Convention & Visitors Bureau

VISIT MICHIGAN’S PREMIER

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SHOWROOM FOR LUXURY APPLIANCES

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For a limited time Save 15% when you pre-order your spring build. greenshielddecks.com

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Offer ends Jan 15, 2024. Offer applies to new orders only, other limitations may apply.

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C O N T E N TS Features

48 Lakeside Beauty 56 Mesmerizing Sights 66 Divine in the Dunes This Robert C. MetcalfMichigan’s stately A stunning vacation designed home lighthouses are home protects the along Crystal Lake’s transformed into sand, floating 16 feet white-sand shore is fascinating abstract art above the ground. as welcoming and when ice, snow, and By Giuseppa Nadrowski peaceful today as the changing skies frame day it was born. the soaring beacons. 74 Storybook Stays By Patty LaNoue Stearns By Amy S. Eckert Cozy up by a fireplace and relax in inviting guest rooms 62 Hearty Party! this winter at three Invite your friends dreamy inns. over for a bowl of homemade soup to By Dianna Stampfler warm the soul. By Dawn Bause

ON THE COVER

The Ludington North Breakwater Light enchants in all seasons. Photo by Todd and Brad Reed Photography, toddandbradreed.com.

“ ... our architect did a fantastic job siting and lifting the house skyward to maximize the view. When you’re looking west, all you see is sand, water, and sky.” — THE HOMEOWNER

PHOTO BY JANE MESSENGER

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FIND YOUR

WINTER HERE.

Winter is the perfect time to sneak away for a rejuvenating getaway to Pure Ludington. Whether you are a winter enthusiast looking for outdoor activities that will enliven you like taking on snow-covered trails on a fat-tire bike, or just looking for a recharging getaway to reconnect and enjoy good food and craft beer, there is a place for you here. Don't hide from winter. Make plans to embrace all that a Pure Ludington winter has to offer!

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C O N T E N TS

20 26 WATERWAYS

16 Sky, Sand & Surf The popularity of outdoor programs for women is booming as more adventure-seekers look to expand their skills, and the growing sport of skijoring combines cross-country skiing and dog sledding. By Jeff Nedwick and Dianna Stampfler

26 The Pike: Cruising U.S. 31 When snow conditions are right, sledders on the Sleeping Bear Dune Climb can really fly. By Giuseppa Nadrowski 28 Headwaters After opening the Northport Trading Post, this couple now thrills rock hounds with stone-polishing classes. By Marla Miller 12

30 Page-Turners The “Perfect Day Michigan” guidebook highlights day trip destinations covering both peninsulas, and a Mackinac-loving artist’s new book hits the shelves. By Marla Miller and Megan Swoyer

DESIGN CURRENTS

36 Studio Visit Artist Kathleen Chaney Fritz captures Michigan and its many enchanting moods. By Katy Klimczuk 40 Design Star Design Doyenne: Pollack textiles’ Rachel Doriss is often inspired by water. By Patty LaNoue Stearns

42 The Elements Go for cocoa, stirring up some soup-making essentials, and date night at home. By Jamie Fabbri

ANCHORS AWAY

86 Dining Out Frankfort’s Dos Árboles restaurant specializes in a creative mix of authentic Mexican flavors and American-style cuisine. By Mark Spezia 88 Book It The Sweetwater Sea B&B in Greenbush capitalizes on its picturesque Lake Huron beachfront setting. By Bill Semion 90 Discoveries The U.P.’s Snowriver Mountain Resort

introduces a high-speed ski lift as part of a $10 million transformation. By Mark Spezia

92 Tasting Room Cheers to 50 years! The Leelanau Peninsula’s MAWBY Vineyards and Winery celebrated a sparkling milestone as Michigan’s Bubble King. By Susan R. Pollack

IN EVERY ISSUE 14 Reflections Wintry Magic By Megan Swoyer

96 Postcard Winter conditions don’t stop this photographer from paying a visit to icy Holland State Park. By Wes Kitten

PHOTOS COURTESY OF SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE (INSET); CHRIS GUIBERT, KEWEENAW MOUNTAIN LODGE (RIGHT)

22 Get Outdoors With some 160 energetic huskies, Nature’s Kennel offers exhilarating dogsledding excursions through scenic U.P. terrain, and toasty RVs or cozy yurts are comfortable ways to experience winter camping. By Mark Spezia and Bill Semion

MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024

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REFLECTIONS ®

he season’s first snow flurries danced into our lives in late October. They felt magical as the soft, white stuff coated branches, pumpkin tops, and trick-or-treaters. I knew I could keep that magical feeling going through winter, thanks to author Melody Beattie’s “Journey to the Heart.” Infinite enchantment is ours for the taking this winter, I think, heeding one of Beattie’s daily meditations, which suggests that if you’re closing down to life’s magic, try taking a walk, touching a tree, and feeling the earth under your feet (no matter how cold) to bring about a change of heart. This season, I’m feeling the earth under my feet and embracing the cold, as I did one long-ago winter. Not that I want to feel exactly like I did the first time I skied with my middle school’s ski club, because I shivered most of the time. I’d thought that if I bundled up, I’d look like Humpty Dumpty — not good for attracting the club’s cute boys. As I got out of the car, my mother asked, “isn’t that jacket a bit light?” But being an eighth-grade girl, I figured I could deal with a little cold. You can sense the earth on a sled, too. Years ago, my husband and I took our sons sledding near our cottage. The boys, about 5 and 6 years old, built little moguls on the hills and joyfully glided for hours. We love to recall the moment when the older one slid off his sled going over a gentle incline. His brother sprinted to his rescue, then bent down in all seriousness to listen to his heart. He told him he’d gladly pull him up the hill this time. I made tummy-warming vegetable soup later that day, using a family recipe. It’s one I’ve managed to keep in my head (don’t forget a dash of Worcestershire sauce!) after watching my sister chop, dice, sauté, and stir up a huge pot of garden-harvest soup one early winter afternoon. I was a student at Michigan 14

State, and she was working full time, married, and living in a house nearby. She told me that if I helped her with some outdoor chores, she’d prepare me some homemade soup. It was so worth it! Cool-and-warm, light-and-dark recollections waft through our winters. Like peering through frosted windows, we can see glimmers of our soul places. As I write this, I envision my dad standing in front of my childhood home in deep snow, at dusk. Through blustery, snowy gusts, he was taking photographs of the house he loved. Every window glowed with an electric holiday candle, above which hung sprigs of holly. My dad was trying to capture a bit of the Christmas-tree luminosity beaming through the glass and casting its reflection and shadows atop fresh, snow-covered bushes. He also enjoyed taking photos of lighthouses in all seasons. After the film was developed and after my mom placed the images in photo albums, I would look over his shoulder as he turned the pages slowly, pointing out Mother Nature’s special touches. One photo would become our annual Christmas card. There’s no doubt that as the swirling snow mesmerizes us, wintry days can cast a spell that takes us to the memory bank. Let’s drop a marshmallow into our hot cocoa and let it open a steamy stream of memories. And then let’s be present and stay awake for these days of magic, which will soon become the “good old days.” Let’s bundle up until we’re resembling Humpty Dumpty, grab the old sled, get out the soup recipes we’ve not made in a while, and visit the Great Lake shorelines encrusted in those fascinating ice sculptures. Go out and create new, warm-andtoasty memories in this cold-and-frosty season. Savor the magic!

MSWOYER@HOUR-MEDIA.COM

Volume 19 | Issue 1 mibluemag.com PUBLISHER: Jason Hosko EDITORIAL EDITOR: Megan Swoyer TRAVEL EDITOR: Ron Garbinski COPY EDITOR: Anne Berry Daugherty WRITERS: Dawn Bause, Amy S. Eckert, Jamie Fabbri, Wes Kitten, Katy Klimczuk, Marla Miller, Jeff Nedwick, Giuseppa Nadrowski, Susan R. Pollack, Bill Semion, Mark Spezia, Dianna Stampfler, Patty LaNoue Stearns DESIGN CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Lindsay Richards ART DIRECTOR: Keagan Coop SENIOR PRODUCTION ARTIST: Stephanie Daniel CONTRIBUTORS: Jeff Garland, Jane Messenger SALES ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: advertising@hour-media.com ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES: Maddy Gill, Nick Irwin, Jessica Laidlaw PRODUCTION PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Jenine Knox SENIOR PRODUCTION COORDINATOR: Jill Berry PREPRESS ARTIST: Jonathan Boedecker ADVERTISING COORDINATOR: Rachel Beltowski SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER: Jim Bibart DIGITAL DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL STRATEGY: Travis Cleveland DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT MANAGER: Matthew Cappo DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT SPECIALISTS: Jim Bowser, Marissa Jacklyn, Luanne Lim, Connor McDonald DIGITAL MEDIA ASSISTANT: Robyn Banks HOUR CITY STUDIOS GENERAL MANAGER: Nick Britsky VIDEO PRODUCER: Nicole Toporowski VIDEOGRAPHER: Heather Moody IT IT DIRECTOR: Jeremy Leland CIRCULATION DIRECTOR OF AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT: Geralyn Wilson CIRCULATION MANAGER: Riley Meyers SENIOR CIRCULATION COORDINATORS: David Benvenuto, Rachel Moulden CIRCULATION COORDINATORS: Susan Combs, Cathy Krajenke, Michele Wold CIRCULATION CUSTOMER SERVICE: 866-660-6247 MARKETING MARKETING AND EVENTS MANAGER: Jodie Svagr MARKETING AND EVENTS COORDINATOR: Jaime Presnail COMMUNICATIONS AND PR: Regan Blissett ADMINISTRATION DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS OPERATIONS: Kathie Gorecki PUBLISHING AND SALES COORDINATOR: Mikala Bart ASSISTANT OFFICE MANAGER: Natasha Bajju SENIOR ACCOUNTING ASSOCIATE: Andrew Kotzian ACCOUNTING ASSOCIATES: Sammi Dick, Kate Manley, Austin Schmelzle PUBLISHED BY HOUR MEDIA, LLC CEO: Stefan Wanczyk | PRESIDENT: John Balardo

Michigan BLUE magazine is published quarterly by Hour Media. Publishing office: 5750 New King Dr., Suite 100 Troy, MI 48098. Telephone 616-459-4545; fax 616- 459-4800. General email: info@hour-media.com. Copyright ©2023 by Hour Media. All rights reserved. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Michigan BLUE magazine,1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. Subscription rates: one year $14.95, two years $24.95, three years $34.95, U.S. only. Single issue and newsstand $5.95 (by mail $8.95). To subscribe or to order back issues, please contact Circulation at 866-660-6247. Advertising rates and specifications at mibluemag.com or by request. Michigan BLUE magazine is not responsible for unsolicited contributions.

PORTRAIT BY JEAN LANNEN

Wintry Magic

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PHOTO BY MARLA MILLER

Scot Wacks, owner of the Northport Trading Post, offers rock-polishing classes at his Leelenau Peninsula shop. He’s a treasure trove of information for rock hounds or those looking for a unique piece of jewelry.

16 Sky, Sand & Surf Outdoor programs for women adventure-seekers and the sport of skijoring both are growing in popularity.

22 Get Outdoors Fun ideas: Are you ready for a U.P. dogsledding outing, or thinking about winter camping around the Great Lakes?

26 The Pike Give it a try! Sledders on the Sleeping Bear Dune Climb can really fly when the conditions are right.

28 Headwaters Northport Trading Post’s rock-polishing classes are small, with lots of space to work, so students don’t feel rushed.

30 Page-Turners A Michigan guidebook highlights fascinating day trips; Mackinac Island artist paints luminous landscapes.

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FIELD GUIDE Exploring Michigan: Tips, trends, and tidbits

State Parks Update: Michigan state parks and recreation areas began shortening the overnight lodging reservations window from 12 to six months, effective Nov. 1. The Michigan DNR says the change will be fully implemented by May 1, in an effort to improve consistency for campers, streamline the reservation process, and improve park maintenance planning. michigan.gov/stateparks Museum Upgrade: The 170-year-old Grand Rapids Public Museum will undergo a $50-million expansion that’s expected to last up to 24 months. The new design of the building, which opened in 1994, will prioritize Grand River accessibility and will link a 7.5-mile urban trail to major regional trails and the Grand River Greenway. Other enhancements will include work on the north lawn and incorporating elements such as a living roof. A geologic rock wall will frame the riverfront. The museum’s science and cultural programs will benefit because greater river access will allow for more visceral and immersive experiences. The facility also aims to double its capacity to welcome and educate local students. grpm.org Sailing Milestone: Competitors in the 100th Bayview Mackinac race, which begins on July 20, 2024, and is hosted by the Bayview Yacht Club in Detroit, will sail on the 1925 course used during the first race. From its traditional Lake Huron start near Port Huron, the fleet will head north on one course for 204 nautical miles along the Michigan shoreline before heading west, passing south of Bois Blanc Island, and finishing between Round Island and Mackinac Island. With the help of presenting sponsor National Fleet Services, the club is able to improve various aspects of the event, including safety measures, race logistics, and participant amenities. bycmack.com — Compiled by Ron Garbinski Have news that pertains to Michigan travel and exploration? Send a note to MSwoyer@Hour-Media.com. 16

Becoming an Outdoors Woman workshops require extensive planning and many volunteers to help the Michigan DNR coordinate the various activities.

Bonding with Nature The popularity of outdoor programs for women booms as more adventure-seekers look to expand their skills

By Jeff Nedwick

ith women’s participation in outdoor recreation on the rise, the demand for programs to help them get more involved in Michigan’s abundance of outdoor activities is booming. The most widely recognized program is called Becoming an Outdoors Woman (BOW). Since 2017, Michelle Douglas has led BOW, which launched in 1994 and is run by the Michigan Department of Natural Resources. “Family dynamics often exclude mothers from participating in hunting and fishing,” says Douglas, who’s passionate about helping women develop an appreciation of the outdoors. The BOW program features a series of workshops that are offered a minimum of two weekends per year in the summer, fall, or

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PLAN IT!

winter. The curriculum includes one-third fishing, one-third hunting or shooting sports, and one-third ancillary and/or non-consumptive, while the physical activity levels range from low to very strenuous. Natureology Nearly all of the workshops are hands-on, and all natureology.me equipment is provided. Reeling & Healing Midwest In addition to these seasonal workshops, BOW fishon.org also offers special, targeted activities called Beyond BOW events for turkey hunts, snowshoe hikes, archery deer hunts, backpacking hikes, and more. Under Douglas’ stewardship, participation in BOW has grown steadily, the number of volunteers has increased, and the volume and geographical coverage has expanded. Ninety percent of participants surveyed rate BOW activities as “excellent.” Further proof of its popularity is that although several other states have their own BOW programs, women frequently travel across state lines — some come from as far away as California — to participate in the highly successful Michigan BOW workshop.

PHOTO (BOTTOM) COURTESY OF JOHN RAY; (TOP AND MIDDLE) MAUREEN STINE

Becoming an Outdoors Woman michigan.gov/dnr/ education/public/bow

Nature Lovers Looking for an experience that promotes a more reflective, spiritual connection to the outdoors? Try forest bathing. It’s an immersion technique popularized in Japan, and it was recently introduced at select U.S. Forest Service locations. Participants use their senses to connect with nature, and the result is that they improve their physical, mental, emotional, and social health. Based in northern Michigan with programs across the entire state, Maureen Stine’s Natureology organization is one of the few Michigan-based practitioners of this technique. Guided forest bathing trips typically last two hours and emphasize unplugging, slowing down, and awakening the senses. Natureology also offers more traditional programs for women, like an annual women-only ice fishing outing in Hessel, east of St. Ignace, in addition to outdoors workshops.

Top: Maureen Stine (lower left) of Natureology leads a group through a forest bathing outing near Oden. Above: Ann Miller, president of Flygirls, prepares to release a beautiful brown trout caught on the Manistee River during one of the group’s fly-fishing programs.

Happy Casters If fishing had an equivalent to forest bathing, it would have to be fly fishing. While still a traditional outdoor recreation activity, fly fishing is definitely more conducive to making spiritual connections with nature than other types of fishing. According to the Recreational Boating and Fishing Foundation, 31 percent of all fly anglers in 2022 were women, making it the fastest-growing demographic among all fly anglers. This comes as no surprise to Ann Miller, president and co-founder of Flygirls of Michigan, a group of women fly anglers whose membership totals more than 300. Since its inception in 1996, Miller estimates that Flygirls has introduced more than 1,000 women to the sport of fly fishing. “Our primary goal is to connect women with other women who like to fly fish,” she says. Miller attributes part of the growth to women setting aside more time for themselves — and, for many, she says, that time is best spent outdoors. MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024

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Flygirls members tied and donated more than 600 flies to the Tie-a-thon organization.

“We’ve seen steady growth in interest in fly fishing over the years,” Miller says, adding that fly fishing equipment manufacturers seem to have taken notice, with marketing campaigns directed specifically at women and equipment designed with women in mind. Flygirls emphasizes on-the-water activities such as weekend fishing outings, which run from April through October. Pre-outing virtual meetings prepare participants with information about expected hatches, recommended fly patterns, and key locations. During the winter months, Miller and other experts host virtual membership meetings to teach entomology and fly-tying. For women coping with a cancer diagnosis, fly fishing is more

than a way to connect with nature. It’s therapeutic. Perhaps because anglers are often directly immersed in the aquatic environment, fly fishing offers a stronger reminder of humanity’s place in the ecosystem. Such a connection is harder to replicate from the back seat of a bass boat or on a Great Lakes charter, and it’s why Reeling & Healing Midwest — a 501(c)(3) nonprofit dedicated to teaching women recovering from cancer to fly fish — chose Michigan’s blue-ribbon trout streams for their programs. The 2.5-day retreats accommodate women older than 18 who can manage the physical requirements. Attendees arrive in the early afternoon, attend a short fly-fishing seminar, enjoy dinner, and by 8:30 the next morning they’re on the water learning entomology, wading safety, fly casting, and fly fishing in an environment where they can immediately apply their new skills. Cath Sero is the current director of Reeling & Healing Midwest and has been with the organization since its inception in 1998. She says the retreats emphasize healing and empowerment in a way participants are challenged to learn new skills — which also adds confidence and strength to their cancer journey. “By embracing the challenge, I see a shift to an ‘anything’s possible’ mindset,” Sero says. On the water, there’s no talk of cancer; only matching the hatch and making the right cast.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ANN MILLER (LEFT); MAUREEN STINE (TOP)

Maureen Stine (left) of Natureology lectures a group of women forestry professionals at a Women Managing Woodlands outing at Oden Fish Hatchery.

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Find your

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Sky, Sand & Surf

Harnessing Winter The growing sport of skijoring combines cross-country skiing and dog sledding for exciting snowy adventures By Dianna Stampfler

An experienced skijoring enthusiast enjoys the sport on trails at Keweenaw Mountain Lodge in the Upper Peninsula.

ating back hundreds (maybe thousands) of years as a mode of winter travel, skijoring is picking up momentum as a seasonal sport in Michigan. A combination of cross-country skiing and dogsledding, skijoring — a name derived from the Norwegian word skikjøring, meaning “ski driving” — involves a person actively skiing while being connected to a dog (or dogs), for recreation or competitive racing. The skier wears a skijoring belt connected to the dog via a line, while the dog wears a pulling-specific harness. The dog is motivated to run solely by responding to the skier’s voice commands. Lindsay McWebb, owner of Atlas Skijor Kennel in Negaunee and founder of Noquemanon Skijor Club, based in Marquette, taught herself the sport about 15 years ago with her first team of Alaskan huskies, Bubba and JoBeth. Seeing a need for skijoring education and trail etiquette, she began offering private lessons and clinics, banding together with other similarly ambitious winter athletes. “This has been a passion of mine for many years,” McWebb says. “I mostly offer private lessons, and have taken out many people with little ski experience.” The length of a ride varies, as everyone is at a different level and is looking for their own personal experience. “A beginner skier may be happy with a mile,” she notes. “I prefer longer skis with terrain for a challenging, more advanced skijor. My ideal skijor is around five miles — even 10 miles, on occasion.” Skijor trail access remains limited, as most Nordic areas do not allow dogs. “It’s tricky because trail etiquette is so important for dogs to be allowed on ski trails,” McWebb says. “There’s not much out there that will allow it. We’re fortunate here in Marquette to have nearly 25 kilometers of groomed trails available to skijor. We’ve also worked very hard locally to educate trail users with dogs.” Marquette residents Frida Waara and her husband, Ron Thorley, have been skijoring for over a decade. Waara says her

PHOTO COURTESY OF CHRIS GUIBERT, KEWEENAW MOUNTAIN LODGE

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF FRIDA WAARA (TOP, LEFT); CHRIS GUIBERT, KEWEENAW MOUNTAIN LODGE (TOP, RIGHT)

Above: Adventurers gather for a fun day of skijoring around Grand Island near Munising. Right: With a little instruction on skijoring techniques, most beginners are ready to harness up and hit the trails at Keweenaw Mountain Lodge.

lifelong love of the snowy season drives her to experience it to the fullest. Her fascination with dogs on the snow trails began in 1990, at the start of the U.P. 200 Sled Dog Race in Marquette. “I learned about the remarkable bond between working dogs and the musher,” shares Waara, who proudly admits to skiing five of the seven continents, including Antarctica’s South Pole, as well as being the first woman from Michigan to reach the geographic North Pole on skis. “I could never handle the responsibility of a sled dog team, but I could harness up one or two dogs and ski.” Beyond the rush of the sport, it’s the lasting memories and experiences that stick with Waara and keep her hitting the trails. “I have to say a starry night in March some years back on the skijor trail, running two of Lindsay’s dogs, Fossie and Lyra, from County Road 510 to the Noquemanon trailhead in Forestville, was the most memorable night I’ve ever had on skis,” she recalls. “Another notable experience with the skijor club came when we crossed frozen Lake Superior, from Sand Point in Pictured Rocks to Grand Island.” Both Waara and McWebb lead skijoring clinics at the Michigan Department of Natural Resources’ annual Becoming

PLAN IT!

an Outdoors Woman (see Get Outdoors story) winter retreat each February at Big Bay, near Marquette. The program introduces women to the sport’s techniques and then gives them an opportunity to harness up and hit the trail if they wish. Farther north, the Keweenaw Mountain Lodge in Copper Harbor invites well-behaved, leashed dogs on its winter trails. The 2.1 km Perimeter Trail is ideal for skijoring, as it’s groomed flat and has good visibility. Other trails are open to obedient dogs, as long as they run outside the classic tracks on the groomed trails. In 2021, the resort hosted its first Dawg Days skijoring event, a timed trial race called the Perimeter Dog Derby, as part of the larger CopperDog 150 dogsled weekend. A costume contest is also part of the festivities, slated this winter for Saturday, March 2. Both the skier and their dog(s) are encouraged to dress up, and they’re judged for their creativity. Among the participants in this family friendly event are members of the Lake Effect Skijoring Club, which is open to

Atlas Skijor Kennel facebook.com/atlasskijor Keweenaw Mountain Lodge keweenawmountainlodge.com Noquemanon Skijor Club facebook.com/ noquemenonskijorclub

competitive, recreational, and introductory skijorers. The group also coordinates informal skijor meetups and training sessions, while working to raise awareness of the sport and promoting responsible trail use. In the Lower Peninsula, backcountry access can be found near Grayling in Crawford County, where more than 70 percent of the land is undeveloped and state or federally owned. The ungroomed areas of the Mason Tract Pathway, Rayburn Property, and Wakeley Lake (federal sticker required) are ideal for skijoring. Certain areas of Hanson Hills Recreation Area, Forbush Corner Cross Country Ski Area, and Hartwick Pines State Park (passport required) are also suitable sites to tie up to the dogs and hit the trails. MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024 21

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Get Outdoors

PLAN IT!

Nature’s Kennel natureskennel.com Advance reservations are required; call 906-748-0513.

Nature’s Kennel co-owner Tasha Stielstra loves to drive her dog sled teams through the wintry wilderness.

How to Become a Musher With some 160 spirited Huskies, Nature’s Kennel offers exhilarating dog-sledding excursions through scenic Upper Peninsula terrain By Mark Spezia

PHOTO COURTESY OF LAKE SUPERIOR PHOTO

uring the colder months, forested lands surrounding the quaint eastern Upper Peninsula village of McMillan abound with serene winter scenery. Just north of town is the beginning of a lengthy network of trails groomed exclusively for dog-sledding — which might be the ideal way to experience this unspoiled setting, where frozen lakes and ponds dominate the landscape. Nature’s Kennel maintains the peaceful paths and, for more than two decades, it’s been offering a variety of options for experiencing the exhilaration of driving or riding along with a team of energetic, well-trained Alaskan huskies through the wintry wilderness. “For anyone yet to experience dog-sledding, it will definitely be unlike anything they’ve ever done before, and there’s no way to completely explain it,” says Tasha Stielstra, who co-owns Nature’s Kennel with her husband, Ed. “You can see dog-sledding on television or watch videos, but it’s totally different to actually do it. I hardly ever hear people say the experience was exactly what they thought it would be.” Jeff Bomber, a doctor in nearby Naubinway, couldn’t stop raving about his first mushing experience last winter. “Oh, my … there’s nothing like it — the quiet of winter with just the sound of the runners on fresh snow, paw prints, dogs breathing, (and) taking in every joyous breath as they do what they were born to do,” he wrote on the Nature’s Kennel Facebook page. “This experience broadens your depth in life physically and spiritually. For those of us who love dogs and the wilderness, it will love you back.” Such positive feedback is hardly surprising, given the Stielstras’ pedigree.

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF NATURE’S KENNEL; ALBERT MARQUEZ/PLANET EARTH ADVENTURES (INSET)

Get Outdoors

They have earned humanitarian awards for dog care and are both accomplished sled dog racers. Each has won the U.P. 200, and Ed completed the world’s most prestigious sled dog competition, the Iditarod, eight times between 2004 and 2016. That’s four more finishes than any other Michigan resident. Other mushers have used Nature’s Kennel-trained dogs to run the Iditarod since Ed’s last finish, and the staff continues to train some dogs for racing. Each of the Kennel’s guides are responsible for 20-24 of its roughly 160 dogs, and groups as large as 16 can be accommodated. Guides spend plenty of time becoming familiar with all of their dogs’ personalities, quirks, and strengths. They also take the time to present a thorough tutorial on dog-sledding basics and dog care for all guests, whether they’re driving a team themselves or they’re a passenger in a guide’s sled. Options include 10-mile, 20-mile, and overnight trips. Dressing in several warm layers is crucial due to a constant breeze generated by dogs pulling the sleds at eight to 10 miles per hour, and the kennel provides toasty, polar-style boots. Overnight outings, suitable for ages 7 and up, entail a 20-mile trip to the Kennel’s Musher’s Village. It all begins with the nearly two-hour process of meeting the dog team, receiving instructions, outfitting each guest in boots, and packing the sleds. Those taking part are welcome to help harness the dogs. By the time they’re hooked to the sled, the dogs are bound to be barking and fidgeting with anticipation as drivers and passengers settle in. Sleds might rock and wobble a bit after the guide yells “Ready, go” to begin the journey, but the teams soon settle into a steady rhythm. Guests can alternate between driving and riding with regularly scheduled stops. “The ride out to Musher’s Village is through some very scenic terrain with no major hills and gradual curves,” Tasha says. “We have a great relationship with the Michigan DNR, which allows us to

groom trails and operate on a beautiful area of state forest land.” Musher’s Village, which opened in December of 2017, features lodging in a rustic yurt or a small cabin, both heated by a wood stove. There’s also a sauna and campfire area, with straw bales for seating. After arriving, guides and guests unhook the dogs and spread straw for their bedding before partaking in the perfect winter lunch: chili. The dogs are fed a stew of rendered beef and kibble mixed with hot water. Afternoon options include snowshoeing or relaxing by the fire or in a sauna. Guests then help the guides prepare a fireside dinner. Morning brings dog-feeding, sled-packing, breakfast, and dog-harnessing. “Our overnight trips are the real deal

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for people who want a full, immersive sledding experience that can also be a great family outing,” Tasha explains. “Overnighters aren’t offered by many Midwest kennels, and our accommodations have certainly been upgraded from the canvas-wall tents we used to have.” The 10-mile trip, suitable for children aged 3 and older, is offered twice daily, while the 20-mile outing, best for those age 12 and up, is offered once per day and includes a pasty lunch. Nature’s Kennel also offers two multiday, multi-activity adventures later in the sledding season. Both involve dog-sledding and lodging at Chamberlin’s Old Forest Inn in Curtis. One includes ice-climbing in Munising, and the other is a winter photography tour with Marquette photographer Shawn Malone. That itinerary includes excursions to Tahquamenon Falls State Park and Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. The season, which usually runs from early December through the end of March, is now drawing more than 2,000 people per year to Nature’s Kennel. That’s double the total of just a decade ago.

Above: Each of the kennel’s guides are responsible for 20 to 24 of the roughly 160 dogs at the facility. Groups as large as 16 can be accommodated. Inset: Nature’s Kennel co-owner Ed Stielstra has competed in the legendary Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race in Alaska. MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024

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Get Outdoors

f the thought of winter camping in the northern Michigan wilderness sounds a little too chilly, cozy up instead inside a trailer, motorhome, or even a camping yurt, like those available at select state parks. Regardless of how you do it, if you’re camping in a Michigan winter, it takes planning, knowledge, and the ability to deal with some of the issues warm-weather campers don’t face. Here are some ways to experience a comfortable few days outdoors this time of year. Rent an RV or trailer at one of a handful of dealers listed at the Michigan DNR’s website for winter camping rentals, says Ryan Krenek, general manager of Krenek RV in Coloma, in southwest Michigan. He’s also current board chair of the Michigan Association of Recreation Vehicles and Campgrounds, which presents annual RV shows. Krenek RV rents trailers and motorhomes for both summer and winter use, and 24

Frosty Freestyle Take your pick: A toasty RV or a cozy yurt provide comfortable ways to experience winter camping around the Great Lakes By Bill Semion

can even deliver units to campgrounds, usually within a 100-mile radius of its location. Winter RV stays generally mean being thoughtful, especially about water use. Trailers with undersides that are exposed to midwinter temperatures are highly susceptible to frozen water lines, which can burst. Solutions to keep that from happening include placing inflatable insulating pillows around your camper’s perimeter. Since water lines are usually turned off at most campgrounds for the winter season, Krenek says you typically have to bring your own water in containers — and RV toilets must be flushed with RV antifreeze. “We don’t get a ton of people who rent for going north, so we keep the trailers winterized for the current climate,” Krenek says. His company provides a full walk-through orientation, which includes sharing the do’s and don’ts of dealing with the cold. Trailers usually rent starting around $400 for a weekend, while motor-

PHOTOS COURTESY OF DAVID KENYON/MICHIGAN DNR (BOTH PAGES)

Campers discover the thrills of coldweather excursions during a Becoming an Outdoors Woman program sponsored by the Michigan DNR. (See related Sky, Sand, & Surf story.)

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homes are typically double that price. Darren Ing, MARVAC director, agrees that winter is a great time to experience the state. He says some RV manufacturers are now building units intended to be used in an off-grid setting. “They’re built with heavier-duty chassis, and more rugged tires and suspensions,” Ing says. “You can absolutely be off the grid and still have comforts like a refrigerator and bathroom, but you don’t need to be tied into a full-hookup campground.” Some units offer optional extra insulation, as well as heated water lines and tanks. While they’re still not built to the standards of a house, they’re meant to withstand colder temperatures. Technology such as long-lasting, solar-powered heated lithium batteries also help keep you comfy. Cabins or Yurts? Here’s a softer way to land a campsite in winter: A cabin or yurt at select state parks offers a great opportunity to spend time in the outdoors and still have the comforts of an indoor setting. One location with these options is Waterloo Recreation Area in southern lower Michigan, near Chelsea. While the campground on Green Lake closes from Dec. 1-April 1, the yurt — a circular, tent-like structure — stays open for those wanting to camp. It’s easy to find. “We have a gate to the yurt for winter campers. They enter the combination and close the gate behind them,” says Matt Schweda, supervisor at the 20,000-acreplus park. The yurt sleeps up to five, and has solar-powered lighting. Inside, two futons fold down into beds, and there’s a single top bunk. Bring your own bedding/sleeping bags and pillows. The sides are insulated. Water is available in the campground at a hand pump, and there’s a vault toilet. Inside, a thermostat-controlled propane stove provides heat. There’s a camp stove for cooking (bring your own propane canisters) and a fire ring outside, as well as an outdoor charcoal grill. “We recently put a bigger heater inside, so it stays pretty warm,” Schweda adds. The yurt also is ADA-accessible.

PLAN IT!

Reserve a yurt stay at Waterloo Recreation Area by visiting the DNR’s reservations page. Check the Michigan DNR’s list of RV dealers with all-season rental units as well as a list of state parks, state parks with cabins, and rustic state forest campgrounds that are open for winter stays. michigan.gov/dnr/things-to-do MARVAC says these private campgrounds remain open for winter stays: Timber Ridge RV & Recreation Resort, Traverse City; The Bluffs on Manistee Lake RV, Manistee; Rippling River Resort, Marquette; Sno-Trac Village Campground, Grayling; Jack Pine Lodge, Resort and Campground, Manistique; and Waldenwoods Family Recreation Resort, Harland. Krenek RV krenekrv.com Winter and early spring is RV and camping show season. Visit michiganrvandcampgrounds.org for show dates and details.

Above: Winter camping in a cozy yurt near Green Lake at the Waterloo Recreation Area provides fun outdoor times with the comforts of an indoor setting.

According to Schweda, one activity that’s becoming more popular at the park is winter mountain biking. The DTE Energy Foundation Trail, for example, is a fourloop, 22-mile system in the park with sections of varying difficulty. It’s open in winter for fat tire mountain bikers, cross-country skiers, and snowshoers when conditions permit — and, lucky you, the “green,” or beginner’s trail, is near the Green Lake yurt. And while it’s not set in winter, the DNR has produced a video tour of one of the loops. When it has safe ice, campers can go ice fishing for panfish on Green Lake. All that, Schweda says, has attracted more people to camp and play in winter. “It has been very popular. It’s something unique. You’ve got a beautiful view of the lake and the place to yourself. It’s the uniqueness of staying in a yurt. The solitude. Winter camping in general is becoming more popular. You’ve got heat and it’s a completely different experience.” MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024

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The Pike

Winter Fun at the Lakeshore When snow conditions are right, Sleeping Bear Dune Climb sledders can really fly By Giuseppa Nadrowski

ith its first crest sitting at almost 150 feet high, taking on the iconic Dune Climb within the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore near Empire is a feat that many attempt in the summer months. But did you know that the same brilliant bluff turns into the ultimate sledding hill come winter? As the only location within the National Lakeshore where sledding is permitted, each winter families and folks of all ages flock to the snow-covered hill with sleds in hand. “In the winter, the Dune Climb is a fabulous sledding destination. We take out the signs and the drinking fountains that are normally at the base of the hill, and we block off the entire first row of parking so people can get that run in and slide out into what would normally be the parking

lot. When conditions are right, you can really fly,” says Tom Ulrich, the park’s deputy superintendent. With the dunes’ wide landscape, it’s easy to spread out, notes Ulrich, and families with younger children can navigate the hill easily and safely. “The good thing about it is you can go as high up as you want. If you go to the top, you get that fabulous view out over Glen Lake. It’s just a beautiful place to sled. I mean, you get to sled in a national park!” For Laura Ann Johnson, a board member of the Friends of the Sleeping Bear Dunes, a nonprofit organization whose mission is to protect resources and heighten visitor experiences in partnership with Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, sledding at the Dune Climb is guaranteed to bring a smile to your face and get the heart pumping.

PLAN IT! Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore nps.gov/slbe

The Dune Climb slope excites sledders with a fast, fun ride down the hill. It also lets them experience the winter season side of the park — something most people usually don’t see. 26

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF SLEEPNG BEAR DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE (BOTH PAGES)

The Pike

“Turning around and seeing the big, wide-open hill below is exciting and exhausting all at the same time,” Johnson says. “The park ropes off sections of the hill, so sledders know the safe spots to sled and walk up. It’s a fast, fun ride down that usually ends with lots of snow everywhere and much laughter.” While in the summer the sand can pose a challenging hike for some, in the winter Ulrich says it’s “often easier, because the snow doesn’t collapse under your feet like the sand does.” For Ulrich, sledding at the hill is also about experiencing a side of the park that most people don’t usually see. Out of the more than 1.5 million visitors each year, Ulrich says only about 100,000 visit from November to March. “If you come in the shoulder seasons, and especially in the winter, you get to experience it like a local. You get to come in and the restaurants are all open and, you know, it’s just a more relaxed pace,” Ulrich says. The park also is popular for cross-country skiers, snowboarders, and for those looking to take to the trails on fat tire bikes and snowshoes. Each Saturday, the park offers ranger-led snowshoe tours for the public. Starting at the Philip A. Hart Visitor Center in Empire, the hikes last about two hours and each features a different thematic presentation and location chosen by the ranger. Snowshoes are free to borrow for the hike. For those looking to take out their skis and snowboards, the Friends group grooms the park’s beloved Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail. “We lay classic tracks for classic cross-country skiing and corduroy the Heritage trail for skate-skiing,” Johnson says. “Personally, I love back-country skiing after a fresh snowfall. There’s something magical about being in the woods after a good snow and hearing fresh power under your skis.” Johnson suggests Platte Plains, Good Harbor Bay, and Old Indian Trail for beginners; Windy Moraine, Alligator Hill, and Bay View for a more moderate experience; and for those looking for a difficult challenge, she suggests the Shauger Hill and Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive Ski trails.

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Along the Heritage Trail, a favorite of locals, the Friends of Sleeping Bear Dunes lays classic tracks for cross-country skiing and corduroys the route for skate-skiing.

“We take out the signs and the drinking fountains that are normally at the base of the hill, and we block off the entire first row of parking so people can get that run in and slide out into what would normally be the parking lot. When conditions are right, you can really fly.” – Tom Ulrich, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore’s deputy superintendent

“The main things people come here for are the fantastic views and the beaches, and those are all still available in the wintertime,” Ulrich says. “When you walk the Empire Bluff trail, you’re 450 feet up above Lake Michigan, and in the wintertime that can be really spectacular because of the whiteness of the snow and the blue lake. The air is so crisp, you often can see a lot farther than you would in the summer when there’s more humidity in the air.” Ulrich also suggests visiting the beach, where ice formations provide an astonishing scene. “There’s so much to do in the National Lakeshore, and during the long gray winter days, it’s so important to get out in nature to chase those winter blues away,” Johnson says. “Lake Michigan is so unique to see and ever-changing in the winter, depending on the wind, snow, and ice pack. I’m lucky enough to live near the park year-round. My first winter living here was what sold me on moving here full-time from Chicago. It’s so peaceful and beautiful in the winter months. Snow or no snow, there’s plenty to do.” MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024 27

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Headwaters

Living Their Dream After opening the Northport Trading Post, this happy couple now thrills rock hounds with stone-polishing classes Story and Photos By Marla Miller

hen Northport’s long-standing rock shop at the tip of the Leelanau Peninsula closed several years ago, Scot and Jennifer Wack, avid rock collectors and jewelry makers, saw a niche that needed to be filled. The Wacks gave up stable careers, Scot as a builder and Jennifer as a nurse, and opened their Northport Trading Post behind the only gas station in town. On any given day, especially in the

PLAN IT!

summer, the shop bustles with customers looking for a unique piece of jewelry, novice rock hunters who want tips on the best beaches, and avid rock hounds who have questions about their finds. The Trading Post is a traditional rock shop, with a twist. The store also sells local maple syrup, honey (Scot doubles as a beekeeper), greeting cards (made by Scot’s mother), gift items, local art and books, rock-polishing kits, and rock-hunting supplies. In the back, Scot’s rock-polishing classes draw curious onlookers and keep

Northport Trading Post northporttradingpost.com

him busy while Jennifer watches the store. As one of the only functional rock shops in the area, they offer classes and have the required machinery in the store. “We’re open to people coming in and asking us questions,” Scot says. The three-hour beginner rock-polishing class allows participants to work one-onone with the sanding and polishing ma-

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Headwaters

chines, under Scot’s guidance. Rock hounds get to cut, shape, and polish their stone into a unique pendant. When I participated in a class last summer, I even had time to polish one of my own Petoskey stones. It might be a little nerve-racking for those new to rock-polishing, but Scot steps in if participants need extra help. He keeps the classes small, scheduling one or two people at a time, so there’s plenty of space to work without feeling rushed. Scot encourages people to bring in something from their own collection, and recommends that anyone with more experience book a one-hour session. The classes are also popular with those who have tumbled or hand-sanded rocks and want to work on the machines to see if it’s worth the investment. “Some people come up on vacation and they have the rocks, but they don’t know what to do with them,” Scot says. “It’s about making memories. Everybody remembers going to the rock shop. It makes it that much more personal.” Jennifer’s family has deep roots in Northport, an artsy, touristy town near the tip of the Leelanau Peninsula. The area is known for Petoskey stones, Leland Blue, and other coveted rocks. Her great-grandparents, grandparents, and parents all grew up in the region. Scot and Jennifer met and married in the Washington, D.C., area. The couple would visit Northport during the summer, and Jennifer eventually convinced Scot to relocate to northern Michigan in 1998. “I was a city boy and she went and took all that out of me,” Scot says. “I’m still a residential builder, but I don’t want to do that anymore. I want to polish rocks.” The Wacks live on Jennifer’s grandparents’ property, where they found piles and piles of rocks left by her grandad. “He had a little rock shop on the family property,” Jennifer says. “We found hundreds of pounds of Petoskeys there over the years. They had sunk down into the dirt. It was this never-ending pit of Petoskey stones. We’re still polishing those things.” In 2003, they discovered the Grand Traverse Area Rock and Mineral Club, took a

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Above: Scot Wacks conducts rock-polishing classes using equipment available in his shop. Left: In addition to fancy stones and jewelery, the couple offers rock-polishing kits and rock-hunting supplies. Opposite page: Jennifer and Scot Wacks opened their trading post in 2020, just as the pandemic hit.

few classes, and started making jewelry to sell at craft shows and farmers markets. After their youngest child graduated high school, they decided to go all-in on the rock shop after the rock shops in Northport and Leland closed. They opened in 2020 just as the pandemic hit, but it turns out that was a boon for rock-hunting — and for business. “When people couldn’t do anything and couldn’t go anywhere, they were going outside and collecting rocks,” Scot says. “People are coming from all over. The second summer we were open we started

offering the classes, and it absolutely exploded. Everybody has a great time.” “We’re so excited the business has doubled each year, and we love the interactions with people,” Jennifer adds. “It makes for an awesome work day when you’re playing with rocks and talking to happy rock people.” The Northport Trading Post is open yearround, except for March, and rock-polishing classes can be booked online or by calling the store. Scot tries to be flexible with scheduling and has more time during the off-season. The months between November and April are good for picking, especially before Lake Michigan and Traverse Bay freeze, and right after the spring thaw. During the winter, the couple stays busy making jewelry and restocking the post’s online store, which sells wedding bands and rings, jewelry, birdhouses, lighthouses, and more. They also do custom orders for weddings, interior décor, and personalized gifts using rocks people have found or ones they have on hand. MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024 29

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Page-Turners

DayTripping “Perfect Day Michigan” guidebook highlights 29 day-trip destinations covering both peninsulas By Marla Miller

Author and regular BLUE contributor Amy S. Eckert, inset, says her book’s featured destinations range from urban centers to national parks.

Mountains, Mackinac Island, and Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. “The destinations are diverse, from urban centers to national parks,” she says. “Each chapter includes two mustsee attractions and one great restaurant. The chapter finishes with three or four alternatives, just in case you can stretch the trip to two days.” Eckert has wanted to write a book highlighting the whole state for years.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF AMY S. ECKERT (BOTH PAGES)

ative Detroiter, author, and travel journalist Amy S. Eckert has been writing about her birthplace — and home state — for more than two decades. People often ask her: “If I had one extra day, what should I see or do?” Her newest book, “Perfect Day Michigan,” attempts to answer that question with 29 day-trip itineraries designed to help travelers narrow their focus. Eckert says it’s not just a relevant read for first-time visitors to the state or a particular city. “Even if you’re a longtime resident, chances are there are some gems in the state that are new to you,” she says. Michigan is a big state, with vastly different cultures and characteristics. There are more than 3,300 miles of freshwater coastline, 129 lighthouses, and 103 state parks and recreation areas, and its diverse travel offerings range from remote islands in national parks to trendy breweries and distilleries. “I really enjoy sharing the hidden gems in the state of Michigan with people,” Eckert says. “I’ve traveled all around the world for varied assignments, and Michigan is a pretty great place to live and explore. It constantly surprises me that there’s something new around every corner.” Eckert covers urban cities as diverse as Detroit, Ann Arbor, and Grand Rapids, as well as more remote regions such as Copper Harbor and Alpena. Then there are Michigan mainstays: the Porcupine MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024

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Left to right: One of Eckert’s favorite spots, Marquette Harbor Lighthouse. Maps, suggested eateries, and side trips make it easy to plan great getaways.

She discussed it with her publisher, Reedy Press, and when Reedy announced plans for a new statewide travel series, she happily said yes. “Perfect Day Michigan” is her 20th book. “I love discovering new places in my home state, and I hope my enjoyment of that discovery comes across on the page to other travelers,” she says. Was it tough to narrow the book down to 29 itineraries? Yes. But Eckert’s publisher trusted her judgment and years on the road. The book includes a mix of urban destinations, wilderness areas, romantic getaways, and family-friendly options. “It was really difficult, honestly,” she says of narrowing down her day-trip ideas. “I tried to pick places that were truly unique or there was enough to do there to merit a full day.” She always visits the places she writes about, and research for the book took her to a number of locales she’d never visited. One of them was Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary, near Alpena. “I had heard how great that place was, that you could go kayaking over shipwrecks,” she says. Along with “Perfect Day Michigan,”

Eckert also updated and revised “100 Things to Do in Detroit Before You Die.” Both books were released by Reedy Press last fall. In the latest version of “100 Things to Do in Detroit Before You Die,” Eckert explores Detroit’s best attractions, from stylish boutique hotels to fine-dining restaurants, distillery bars, and guided kayaking on the Detroit River. She eliminated outdated entries like the iconic Joe Louis Arena, but added places such as Shinola Hotel Detroit, Sid Gold’s Request Room, and Oudolf Garden Detroit. The book is divided into five sections: food and drink, music and entertainment, sports and recreation, culture and history, and shopping and fashion. Readers also will find oldies but goodies: the Detroit Institute of Arts, Motown Museum, Comerica Park, and The Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village. “I published the original version of ‘100 Things to Do in Detroit Before You Die’ in 2016 and, at that time, Detroit was less than three years out from bankruptcy,” she says. “The city has a reputation around the country for being a place with really vibrant bars and nightlife, and some

of the coolest boutique hotels. A lot has changed in the seven years since that first book came out.” Born in the Motor City, Eckert’s family moved to the west side of the state when she was in elementary school. She still visits metro Detroit several times a year and has an affinity for the city, even though she lives in Holland. “Detroit is a city that’s rapidly developing,” she says. “There are a lot of exciting new places to visit.” Eckert has worked as a travel journalist for more than 20 years, and has traveled across the globe to write about topics such as Martin Luther’s Germany, Shinto pilgrimage routes in Japan, and gorilla trekking in Rwanda. But she always returns to Michigan, and is happy to live, work, and play in her home state.

M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N :

Amy S. Eckert’s work has appeared in National Geographic Traveler, AARP, The Saturday Evening Post, fodors.com, and Backpacker, among others. Copies of her latest titles are available at independent booksellers and online at large retailers. Learn more at amyeckert.com. MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024 31

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Page-Turners

Artist Maeve Croghan, inset, says she dedicated her book, right, to her mother for the sense of wonder and appreciation she instilled in Croghan for the natural world.

A Mackinac-loving artist’s new book hits the shelves

By Megan Swoyer

ichigan BLUE sat down with painter and Mackinac Island gallery owner Maeve Croghan, who shares insights on her new book, “Luminous Landscapes.” The book features a lovely introduction by her longtime friend, writer and island summer resident Sue Allen.

Michigan BLUE: You’ve been a fixture on Mackinac Island through your gallery (Maeve’s Arts), and you’ve been painting for some 35 years or longer. How did it 32

feel to publish a book? Maeve Croghan: I always thought it would be nice to document my work. This is my second book (the first was “The Essence of Nature,” by Jennifer Wohletz). It all started when one of the island’s summer residents, Jennifer Wohletz, came to me about eight years ago saying that she really liked my paintings. She asked if I would be interested in her company, Mackinac Memories, publishing a book. I feel these books are a lovely way, if you’re not ready to buy a painting, for people to have a bunch of my works to enjoy.

MB: That cover, with the gorgeous coneflowers and blue water, really screams Mackinac, but softly. How did you decide on your cover? MC: Those coneflowers grow on the island bluff like that, and I love the color combo with the purples and pinks and the yellows. They pop out against the blue. Of course, I had to include our Round Island Light! MB: You have a shared studio space and an apartment in San Francisco, where you go during the winter, and on the island you have a gallery in the Carrousel Shops building on Market Street and a condominium/studio near the Inn at Stonecliffe. We heard you may be closing the island gallery?

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MAEVE CROGHAN (BOTH PAGES); PORTRAIT BY JENNIFER WOHLETZ

Maeve’s Marvels

MB: The new book features not just your paintings but other artistic works, correct? MC: Yes. It’s more comprehensive than the first book, and has wine labels I did, and a large mural I painted in San Francisco.

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Page-Turners

WAT E RWAYS

Maeve Croghan’s “Golden Arch Rock,” “West Bluff Lilacs,” “Over by Easterly,” and “Daisy Clover Bluff View” showcase beautiful scenes on Mackinac Island. They are all highlighted in her most recent book.

MC: Yes, that’s true regarding my gallery at the Carrousel Shops. I received a letter from the new owners that the tenants need to move out. I’m not sure what I’ll do next. MB: Do you teach painting? MC: I teach plein air painting classes every summer on Mackinac Island through the Mackinac Arts Council. I also teach at the Mendocino Art Center in California. I teach oil, watercolor, and acrylic painting. MB: What are you working on now? MC: A painting I started last fall that’s about 20 by 40 inches. (It depicts an area) near Fort Holmes. And I have a larger one of coneflowers and the lighthouse, and a smaller one of coneflowers. MB: It seems like your family has been on the island for a very long time. MC: Yes, I’ve been there forever. My family was extremely fortunate to have an old family home on the west bluff of the island, between the Grand Hotel and the Inn at Stonecliffe. As kids, we would come up every summer from Virginia. Being on Mackinac became part of my being. We spent our time in the woods, by the lake, enjoying the natural parts of Mackinac. MB: How did you get started in art? MC: From an early age, I was drawn to painting and drawing. During our summers on Mackinac, if it was a rainy

day we’d do art — like, say, paint rocks. Our mother had us doing other crafts, too. By high school I had an art teacher who could see I could do stuff. I was mentored and encouraged, and I knew I wanted to be an artist. I received a bachelor’s degree from the New College of California in art and education, and focused on art and social change. But one has to support oneself, too, so for a time I had a vintage clothing store in Virginia and worked at various businesses on the island. MB: You’re passionate about oil paint and working with it. What’s the attraction? MC: I love oil because of its luster and its blendability. The paints have a luscious quality to them. When the colors go together, it’s alchemy; they create this amazing blend that creates almost a feeling.

MB: How would you describe your work? MC: I paint in thin layers. I’m an oldfashioned painter — I add a little bit of linseed oil to each layer, like the old masters would do. You can look through the layers and see beneath them. That’s kind of me, more depth. I’m trying to share what I feel — the essence, the being of my subjects. Take, for example, a twisty tree; it shows a tree in its life and how it’s lived and what it’s done and how it’s coped and endured. As for flowers, I try to convey the joyous amazing ephemeral beauty, the gift.

M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N :

“Luminous Landscapes” is available at Main Street Art, Milford. Or order it online at maevecroghan.com or mackinacislandmemories.com. MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024 33

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DESIGN CURRENTS

Designer Rachel Doriss of Pollack inspects her beautiful fabric samples. Pollack textiles are often inspired by nature. They’re available at Tennant & Associates (Michigan Design Center, Troy).

36 Designers’ Notebook Hand-crafted wooden bowls, Calumet real estate update, roof prices, and the cat’s meow in leaf-blowers.

36 Studio Visit Artist Kathleen Chaney Fritz, of Ada, beautifully captures Michigan’s seasons and moods.

40 Design Star Meet water-loving Rachel Doriss, vice president and design director of the textile studio Pollack.

42 The Elements Great fixings for cocoa, what you need to make and serve your favorite winter soup, and celebrating datenight at home.

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DESIGNERS’ NOTEBOOK Home-related tips, trends, and tidbits

Rustic Charm: Holland Bowl is a fourth-generation, Holland-based kitchenware and home décor company that started in 1906 and still makes decorative pieces, cutting boards, and plates by hand. It recently released new serving trays, taco boards, French rolling pins, and air plant holders. Each piece is crafted with care from high-quality, sustainably sourced materials. Wooden kitchenware is designed to last for generations. hollandbowlmill.com Leaf it to Cat: For landscape crews and homeowners who are breaking away from gas power, the new Powered by a Cat 60V 5.0Ah MAX removes leaves, grass clippings, and other debris in its path with an innovative blower that features dual-function and variable-speed (with an air speed of 170 mph) options. With a lithium-ion battery, the blower’s advanced technology enhances performance and extends run time. catpowertools.com, lowes.com

Sky High: Thinking about raising the roof on your house to create higher ceilings and more open space? It’s an expensive and labor-intensive project, and you can expect to pay from $20,000 to $100,000 or even more, according to “Today’s Homeowner,” a weekly home improvement show hosted by Danny Lipford. todayshomeowner.com — Compiled by Megan Swoyer Have news about home design and waterfront living? Email MSwoyer@Hour-Media.com 36

Keeping it Fresh Artist Kathleen Chaney Fritz captures Michigan and its many enchanting moods

By Katy Klimczuk

f you enter Kathleen Chaney Fritz’s studio in Ada on a chilly winter’s day, you’ll find an artist in her element. The period when the quiet solitude of painting is paired with the light sparkling against the snow is her favorite time to create. The artist says color and light are of utmost importance in her work, which includes many realistic landscapes. “It’s easier in the winter to actually tell what your colors are,” she says. Not only that, but the summer, in contrast, is far from quiet — it means an influx of tourists, incoming orders, and attending to the sales side of being an artist.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF JOHN FRITZ AND KATHLEEN CHANEY FRITZ (ALL PAGES)

A Boom in Calumet: Recent trends and data indicate that Calumet is experiencing an economic boom. In the past eight years, more than 45 properties have changed hands and an estimated $9 million has been invested in the downtown district. In a community of fewer than 700 full-time residents, that’s a significant statistic! visitkeweenaw.com

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Studio Visit

D E S I G N C U R R E N TS

Far left: A couple of cardinals has found an inviting perch in “Snow on the Pumpkin,” a lovely oil painting by artist Kathleen Chaney Fritz. Above: “Silent Night,” created in oils, portrays a quintessential Michigan scene. Artist Fritz is a master at invoking a welcoming feel through her color selections and attention to light.

Fritz has always been a painter, and her dream was to make fine arts a career. She worked in freelance illustration for advertising agencies in Grand Rapids for eight years before taking a risk that really paid off. Along with her husband, John, she turned her breathtaking watercolor, “Charlevoix Waterfront,” into a poster for the Charlevoix Waterfront Art Fair. It turned out to be a huge hit and they sold more than 500 posters in one day. With a baby, mounting bills, and a desire to turn to fine art full time, Fritz had the courage to try something new — and launched her current career. She says none of it would have been possible without her husband. “I could never have done this, had this career, without him,” Fritz says,

explaining that John is the tech guy, printer, and salesman. She says his former career as a recording engineer has been integral in helping her reproduce paintings in her studio using the giclee process, as he’s sensitive to subtleties in a way that has resulted in extremely high-quality reproductions — a favorite of budget-conscious consumers. Together, the Fritzes have run a successful fine art business for decades. When asked what her favorite thing is about being an artist, Fritz doesn’t hesitate before answering: “The time alone.” She says she can get lost in a painting for hours, with music in the background and her dog, Chief, by her side. That being said, Fritz doesn’t believe in getting too comfortable and likes to keep things interesting. “I don’t really have a preference in mediums, but I like to switch out because, you know, you can start to get stale.”

Left: “Morning Duet” features a cardinal couple enjoying a berry feast. The watercolor showcases the artist’s keen use of values, from quietly pale to rich and dark.

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Studio Visit

Left: Kathleen Chaney Fritz’s oil painting called “Crossing the Straits” shows her passion for water and one of the state’s most iconic symbols. Inset: The artist takes a break from painting to cuddle with her beloved dog, Chief.

“I don’t really have a preference in mediums, but I like to switch out because, you know, you can start to get stale.” — Kathleen Chaney Fritz Using her subject matter as a guide, Fritz likes to play with a variety of mediums. For 20 years, Fritz painted in watercolors. When she switched to oils, some of her customers were frustrated, but her undeniable talent won them over and they came around within a couple of years. She expanded her style, as well. “I switch styles from realistic to abstract to semi-abstract to whimsical primitive,” says Fritz, who often keeps Michigan at the forefront of her artwork. Raised close to the shore of Lake Michigan, Fritz knows the natural beauty of Michigan well. She reflects this in her breathtaking landscapes, which feature some of the state’s most iconic waterfront spots, like Mackinac Island, Grand Haven, and Charlevoix. Fritz says she likes to be playful in her artwork, as well. Her whimsical primitive 38

paintings like “Nature Plays at Sleeping Bear” highlight this jubilation. Using acrylics for brighter hues, Fritz captures the emotion of a place in a fun and reverential way. Landmarks anchor you in a sense of place, while the way Fritz plays with scale, color, and form makes you look closer. No matter what the medium or subject matter, she brings unparalleled talent and joyful curiosity to her work, and that has clients eagerly anticipating what she will create next.

Above: A pretty sky and wondrous Lake Michigan action along the shore envelop a charming lighthouse in “Point Betsie Lighthouse.” Viewers of this watercolor by Fritz can almost feel the spray of the waves against their faces and the little pebbles beneath their feet.

M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N :

To learn more about Kathleen Chaney Fritz and her paintings, visit chaneyfritz.com.

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Complete your Michigan experience with Michigan History magazine Save 10% on a new one-year subscription with code BLUE at www.hsm.pub/mhm.

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The Best of Mid-Twentieth Century Modern Architecture

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The Alden B. Dow Home and Studio engages the imagination and elicits emotional responses in all who experience this powerful statement of Mid-Twentieth Century Modern architecture. Planted into an encompassing pond, the Home and Studio is alive with reflective light, soaring roof lines, diverging angles, brilliant color and the perfect balance of enticement and tranquility. It truly is an “oasis of architecture and inspiration.” Schedule your visit for architectural tours, educational programs, Michigan history and much more.

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D E S I G N C U R R E N TS

Design Star

Left: Rachel Doriss, shown in the Pollack Studio, grew up on water and loved experiencing tidal changes and observing the effects of water on the shoreline. Her designs can be found at the Michigan Design Center in Troy at the Tennant & Associates showroom. Below: The True Horizon pattern in the pillow (front) showcases water and sky appeal.

A Design Doyenne Pollack textiles’ Rachel Doriss is often inspired by water By Patty LaNoue Stearns

s vice president and design director of the textile studio Pollack in New York City, Rachel Doriss — together with her team — is constantly inventing new designs for the luxury-home, contract, and hospitality business. The company launches two collections annually, and they’re always spectacular. We caught up with Doriss at the Michigan Design Center in Troy, where Pollack textiles are represented by Tennant & Associates in Studio 61. The designer says each piece of fabric has a story that starts with a hand drawing. “That’s what sets us apart from other companies — we’re designing the fabric from the ground up, like architects. It’s not just about a pattern or a print and a theme; it’s about the whole cloth,” she says. The fiber, the yarn, how it’s colored, its construction, the finishing, and the end use are all considered in Pollack’s textile designs. Developing a fabric takes six months to a year, says Doriss, who works with more than 100 state-of-the-art mills.

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Design Star

Most are located in the United States and Europe, and each has a specialty. “In every collection, I try to have one fabric that pushes the boundaries,” the designer says. On the Fringe, from Pollack’s 2023 spring collection, is one of those. Doriss knew the only mill that could pull off the extremely complicated design was one in India that does hand-weaving. Cape Cod native Doriss, 47, fell in love with textiles as a young girl. Her grandmother taught her how to sew, knit, crochet, and weave. She later studied art at the University of Massachusetts Amherst, then transferred to the Rhode Island School of Design for textiles, where she earned a BFA. After a stint at luxury scarf-maker Echo Design, she joined Pollack as a designer under celebrated co-founder Mark Pollack in 2000. She’s been in her current position since 2012, and lauds her

four-person staff: “They bring amazing things to the table that I wouldn’t have thought of. It’s very much a collective, and each designer gets credit for their work, which a lot of companies don’t do.” As for the ebb and flow of her design inspirations, much comes from water. “I grew up on water,” Doriss says. “Experiencing tidal changes and observing the effects of water on the shoreline has always fed me inspiration for organic patterns, surfaces, and reflections. I’ll never tire of trying to capture some of those moments in cloth.” Two of Doriss’ designs for Pollack are in the permanent collection of New York’s Cooper Hewitt National Design Museum. She has homes in Brooklyn and the Hudson Valley, where she lives with her teen-aged daughter, who’s taking weaving lessons and is already a creative soul.

D E S I G N C U R R E N TS

True Horizon comes in multiple color themes.

M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N : michigandesigncenter.com, pollackassociates.com

Stay in the know on all things GRAND RAPIDS

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The Elements

3. 2.

Go for Cocoa!

Whether you’re enjoying a night in or you’re outside around the campfire, bring out these hot chocolate essentials Styled by Jamie Fabbri 6. 4.

1. Sip slowly from this Homebody Mug by SWEET WATER DECOR. $24.95, Modish Moth, Grand Rapids, modishmoth.com.

2. Bamboo Serving Trays from mDESIGN make it easy to transport mugs and snacks. $19.99, mdesignhome decor.com.

3. These cute and colorful coasters by VERLOOP add the perfect touch to your soiree. $26/set of 4, shop.verloopknits.com.

4. A 2-Tier Round Bar Cart by mDESIGN is a fun and festive way to serve up hot cocoa and more. $94.99, mdesignhome decor.com.

5. Check out this cheeky tray like from Port Huron-based online lifestyle shop HONEY & HOME. $30, honeyandhome. online.

6. DANDELION CHOCOLATE’s Hot Chocolate Mix is thick and rich — a chocolate lover’s dream. $18, dandelionchocolate.com.

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D E S I G N C U R R E N TS

The Elements

Stirring Up Yum!

From Dutch ovens to servingware, check out these favorite must-haves for making winter soup Styled by Jamie Fabbri

1. Keep things tidy with a Sterling Check Spoon Rest by MACKENZIE-CHILDS. $138, Cutler’s, Petoskey, cutlersonline.com, mackenzie-childs.com.

2. Cook and serve up a tasty dish in STAUB’s heirloom-quality Round Dutch Oven. $375.95, Crate & Barrel, Novi, crateandbarrel.com, zwilling.com.

3. Showcase your state pride in the kitchen with MICHIGAN MITTENS’ L’Oven Mitts. $32, City Bird Detroit, Detroit, citybirddetroit.com, michigamittens.com.

4. The Maison Cooking Utensil Set by SERENA & LILY is a chic culinary essential; here it’s featured in a beloved blue hue. $148, Serena & Lily, Birmingham, serenaandlily.com.

5. CRATE & BARREL’s Mercer Soup and Sandwich Set is a fun and fresh way to present a classic duo. $14.90, Crate & Barrel, Novi, crateand barrel.com.

6. Prep ingredients with this Reclaimed Wood Cutting Board from ARHAUS. $159, Ann Arbor and Troy, arhaus.com.

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The Elements

MICHIGAN POUR RECIPE FROM VALENTINE DISTILLING (valentine distilling.com) Spiced Gin Toddy (two servings)

It’s a Date!

Some great candles, themed glassware, and a cozy robe are all you need for a night in

3 oz. Liberator gin 3 oz. mulled spice tea (any brand will do, see list below) 2 oz. warmed apple cider 1 tsp. honey Brew mulled spice tea and combine with apple cider in a small saucepan on low heat. Bring to a light simmer and remove from heat. Stir in gin and honey before checking the temperature — for safety, allow the toddy to cool to 135 degrees, then serve immediately in a hot beverage mug or cup. Garnish with a cinnamon stick and enjoy!

Styled by Jamie Fabbri

4. 5.

Tea brands with mulled spice tea bags available: Olde Tradition Davidson Organic Tea The Republic of Tea

1. Cuddle up with BAREFOOT DREAMS’ CozyChic Throw Blanket. $147, Neiman Marcus, Troy, barefootdreams.com, neimanmarcus.com.

2. A Lake Michigan Treasures Puzzle by PUZZLES THAT ROCK is the perfect activity. $22, The Cozy Company, Cadillac, facebook.com/thecozy companycadillac.

3. Sip on your favorite beverage in this Michigan Wildflowers Wine Glass by CITY BIRD. $15, City Bird Detroit, citybirddetroit.com.

4. With the Sonoma Bathrobe by SERENA & LILY, you’ll feel like you’re at the spa. $148, Serena & Lily, Birmingham, serenaandlily.com.

5. Experience year-round outdoor warmth with the smokeless, sleek Glow Rectangle Fire Pit by TEAK WAREHOUSE. $3,499, teakwarehouse.com.

6. HOUSE & HARBOR’s Spiced Tea Soy Candle sets a cozy, romantic vibe. $32, House & Harbor, Ludington, houseandharbor.com.

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The Robert C. Metcalfdesigned home takes advantage of gorgeous Crystal Lake views throughout the year.

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Lakeside Beauty This Robert C. Metcalf-designed home along Crystal Lake’s white-sand shore is as welcoming and peaceful today as the day it was born

B Y PAT T Y L A N O U E S T E A R N S PHOTOGR APHY BY JEFF GARL AND

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Vibrant blue exterior doors are a Robert C. Metcalf touch.

he late architect Robert C. Metcalf’s Mid-century Modern designs are prized and esteemed around Ann Arbor, metro Detroit, and beyond. Over four decades, he designed more than 150 homes, churches, and other structures. Only one of his homes can be found in northwest lower Michigan, and it’s on Crystal Lake near Beulah. The owner — social demographer and professor emerita at the University of Michigan, Lois M. Verbrugge, and her late husband, U-M professor of aerospace engineering Elmer G. Gilbert — found the beautiful piece of land on Crystal Lake and convinced the celebrated architect to design a home for them. The professors were colleagues of Metcalf, U-M dean of architecture and urban planning, and they already owned one of his homes in Ann Arbor, so they were drawn to the architect’s phenomenal attention to detail. “Metcalf was a humble man,” Verbrugge remembers. “Elmer and Bob were very like-minded people. Both were engineers, detail people. I would say fussy.” For the Crystal Lake home, the couple wanted

something simple, unpretentious, comfortable, informal, close to the lake, and with easy access to outdoor activities. The architect designed a three-bedroom, two-bath, 2,046-square-foot house, which was built between the fall of 1989 and the spring of 1990 on 180 feet of private frontage on the north shore of the lake. “Many people like the south side of Crystal Lake,” Verbrugge says, “but we liked the north side for the weather — it’s more dynamic in all seasons.” The open-format main floor features a great room with high wood beams and skylights, a wall of windows showcasing the sparkling lake, tile floors, red oak trim, pocket doors, wood lattices, and a wall of Metcalf’s signature glass blocks along the front of the house.

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Nature takes center stage at this home near Beulah. Simple lines allow one of Mother Nature’s masterpiece lakes to be the star.

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Left: The great outdoors is invited indoors, thanks to numerous large windows.

Top: The architect’s signature glass blocks, enhanced by a few colorful shapes, are intriguing accents. Above: The glass blocks, as seen from the interior, are also unique works of art.

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Built-in cabinetry and vibrant blue exterior doors are also a Metcalf touch. A central galley kitchen with built-in appliances banishes clutter, and the master bedroom at the far end has sliding doors that lead out to the beach. The upper floor features an open walkway that connects two office/study areas and a guest room. It’s the perfect layout for work, play, and guests. Even the detached garage with an attic was well-planned; it holds two cars, sports equipment, and garden tools. Both professors were avid outdoorspeople who enjoyed all that Crystal Lake and the nearby Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore offered. Gilbert died in 2019, and last summer, Verbrugge decided it was time to simplify. After much research into finding the right Realtor, she put the two-story, open-plan house, complete with its lightly-used and lovely Mid-century Modern furnishings (mostly teak and oak, and Knoll and Herman Miller), artwork, and original

Above, left: An inviting bathroom features a colorful rug and charming wall art. Above: Imagine waking up to this view. The interior mainfloor bedroom palette echos sky, lake, and sand colors.

appliances on the market. Verbrugge knows the time is right, but her decision didn’t come lightly, and she hopes the next owner will appreciate the home, the lake, and the natural landscape as much as she and her husband did. “This was Elmer’s soul place,” she says. “I will weep when I leave this house. It honors him. For me, it is irreplaceable beauty. I will never again in my lifetime have that experience — it will go with me for the rest of my life.” The original plans and early photos of this house can be found online at the Bentley Historical Library, University of Michigan, Metcalf Job 118-89. A link to the selling specs: 4875crystaldrive.com.

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Below: An inviting study allows residents to get some work done or enjoy a craft project while also taking in exterior views.

BUYER’S GUIDE HOMEOWNER Lois Verbrugge BATHROOM, MAIN FLOOR Rug – Contemporary Gabbeh BEDROOM, MAIN FLOOR Dresser – Jesper Bedroom 20 Soft Top Series Lamps – Scatchard GS200 Night Stands – Jesper Bedroom 20 Soft Top Series Rug – Contemporary Design, India BEDROOM, UPSTAIRS Chair, Side – Tulip Chair

Armchair with Textile Seatpad, Eero Saarinen, Knoll Chest – Jesper Bedroom 30 Soft Top Series Lamps – Hand-Thrown, Groundwork Lamps Night Stands – Jesper Bedroom 30 Soft Top Series DINING ROOM Rug – Gabbeh, India ENTRYWAY Rug, Rectangular – Custom, Finland Rug, Runner – Custom, Finland

EXTERIOR Door Knocker – Baldwin Brass Hardware, Satin Nickel-Plated Finish, Cape Code Brass House Numbers – Bronze with Flat Black Finish, Emtek GARAGE ATTIC Table – Everywhere Rectangular Table, Dan Grabowski, Herman Miller KITCHEN China – Seaview, Mikasa Cutlery – Metro, Mikasa Knives – Wüsthof Pots – All-Clad

LIVING ROOM Chairs, Side – Reupholstered, Academy Blue, Atlas Clock – Prisma Clock TL, ChronoArt Lamp – JT Abernathy Pot (made into lamp) Lamp, Floor – Generation G300 Rocker with Footstool, Antique Rug – Gabbeh, India Rug – Hand-Knotted Wool, Eileen Fisher

UPSTAIRS STUDY, NORTH Chair – Setu Chair, Herman Miller UPSTAIRS STUDY, SOUTH Chair, Desk – Reupholstered, Herman Miller

STAIRS AND LANDING Carpet – Alexandria, Rosetta, Unique Carpets Ltd.

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The Ludington North Breakwater Light is a regional focal point, and a great place to watch the sunset in winter.

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MESMERIZING SIGHTS Michigan’s stately lighthouses are transformed into fascinating abstract art when ice, snow, and changing skies frame these soaring beacons

BY AMY S. ECKERT

PHOTOS BY TODD AND BRAD REED PHOTOGRAPHY

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y ice cleats crunched over the snow and my breath formed clouds as I ventured along the frozen breakwater. Grand Haven’s pier is packed with sun-loving beachgoers in summer, but on this frigid February day only a handful of people joined me on a walk out to see the city’s iconic lighthouses encased in ice. A tunnel of steel catwalk supports arched overhead, swathed in thick columns of ice. Ahead of me, Grand Haven’s Inner Lighthouse tower bore only a thin glaze of ice, but its Outer Lighthouse stood like a gingerbread house dripping

with white frosting. A blanket of ice concealed half of the building, hiding much of its vibrant red exterior from view. Hundreds of tiny icicles formed a delicate fringe along the structure’s roofline, frozen into squiggles created by constant westerly winds. The building’s porthole-shaped windows were nearly fully obscured by curtains of ice. I’d never seen anything like it. Like most Michiganders, I’ve been exposed to the state’s beloved lighthouses all my life. And also like most Michiganders, my experience with those lighthouses has largely been in the warm-weather months: cruising past the soaring beacons on a power boat, climbing winding staircases to stand on windy observation decks, photographing a Lake Michigan sunset framed by a lighthouse. But on this winter day, I heeded my father’s advice. “You should head out to the Grand Haven lighthouse,” he told me. “It’s supposed to be pretty right now.” What an understatement.

Above: Ice sculptures surround Pointe Betside Lighthouse, which is north of Frankfort and is situated at the southern entrance to the Manitou Passage. Construction was completed in 1858. Opposite page: A beautiful winter’s day is made even prettier with an iconic lighthouse vista. Big Sable Point Lighthouse is one of the prettiest in Michigan and is located in Ludington State Park.

ICY ATTRACTIONS “I think photographing images of Michigan’s lighthouses in winter reminds people of the state’s year-round beauty,” says Brad Reed, co-owner with his father, Todd, of Todd and Brad Reed Photography in Ludington. “There’s an army of photographers ready to shoot Michigan’s natural beauty in summer or fall, but they usually forget about us come winter.” Brad and Todd Reed have both enjoyed photographing Michigan professionally for decades — Brad for 20 years and Todd for 53. The duo have focused largely on landscapes in their hometown of Ludington and in west and northern Michigan, branching off into the Upper Peninsula on occasion. The Reeds and their general manager, Rachel Gaudette, have sold their prints and photography books online and from their eponymous gallery since 2005. While the Reeds shoot a wide range of Michigan subjects, they have a great fondness for Michigan’s lighthouses. From a photographic standpoint, Brad’s favorite time of year to capture them is in winter, despite the sometimes fierce conditions. “There’s so much beauty in the winter,” he says. “You get beautiful ice formations that sometimes look like abstract art, and there can be a lot of drama in the sky, in the snow, and in the ice.” My cold-weather lighthouse excursion began with Grand Haven’s ice-covered lights. After being wowed by their spectacular ice formations, I felt driven to see more. I was mesmerized by the interplay of ice and water, of light and shadow, and I was in awe of nature’s wildly creative forces. After Grand Haven, I visited the Holland Harbor South Pierhead Lighthouse, fondly known as Big Red. The light itself wasn’t covered in ice — water and air currents didn’t support ice build-up on that winter day — but the walkways out to the light shimmered with hoarfrost, like tiny jewels. The contrast of

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CHECK IT OUT!

For more information on the Reeds’ photography, visit toddandbradreed.com

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TIMING IS EVERYTHING “Lake Michigan is the best place to see ice-covered lighthouses in Michigan because of the prevailing winds,” Brad says. “The winds come from the west, and they create pretty good surf when they travel across all that open water.” Can’t-miss lighthouses, he says, include the St. Joseph North Pier Inner and Outer lights, the Ludington North Breakwater Light, Point Betsie, and the Charlevoix South Pier Light Station. He particularly likes Charlevoix’s steel railings for their tendency to develop interesting icicles. Brad heads out for winter lighthouse-viewing between mid-February and early March, late enough in the season that ice shelves and icebergs have formed — which, in turn, throw powerful water spray that creates multilayered sculptures, sheathes, icicles, and glaze. By late winter, more of Lake Michigan’s surface has begun to freeze over, confining the surf that inundated lighthouses and piers just weeks before. When late March arrives, air temperatures have warmed enough to melt away all those elaborate formations.

Night falls on the captivating Manistee North Pierhead Lighthouse in Manistee. It’s located on the west end of the north pier.

the brilliant red lighthouse against the white and blue of snow, water, and sky took my breath away. A few days later, I drove to South Haven to view its South Pierhead Light encased in ice. Next were visits to icy lights in Muskegon, Ludington, Silver Lake State Park, Manistee, and Frank-

fort. A week later I drove farther north, to see lighthouses in Mackinaw City and Marquette. Each one was different, each adorned with a thin glaze or frozen filigree, each surrounded by mounds of snow or bobbing icebergs. These lighthouse excursions were proving addictive.

SAFE AND WARM As I tramped around Point Betsie Lighthouse near Frankfort, my ice cleats dug deep into the ice-covered shoreline. Ten weeks of winter precipitation and constant winds had fashioned the otherwise smooth, sandy beach into an uneven landscape of ice mounds, snowy flats, and frozen latticework. I crouched behind some ice-covered scrub to shield myself from the Lake Michigan spray and shot a few more photographs. After 30 minutes on the beach, I was ready for the warmth of my car. “My dad (Todd) was a member of the Coast Guard for 33 years, and he always impressed upon me the importance of safety,” Brad says. “That means taking great care on the ice.” Whenever the Reeds head out to shoot Great Lakes subjects, the pair wears spikes on their feet and on their wrists, and they wear

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life jackets. If the ice appears particularly slick, they don helmets. It can be difficult in winter to see where the land ends and where the water begins. When in doubt, they head for lighthouses that can be easily admired from solid land: Big and Little Sable Points, Point Betsie, and Old Mackinac Point in Mackinaw City among them. Beyond outfitting themselves for safety, they dress to be outdoors for hours, because the key to capturing the lights’ beauty comes down to timing and patience.

“Miserable weather brings the potential for great photos,” Brad shares. “If it’s raining and then the sun comes out, if it’s snowing and the sun peeks through, that’s a recipe for some real drama.” Those dramatic moments are what the Reeds term “magic light.” The key to catching those serendipitous moments, Brad says, lies with the photographer’s willingness to be there, despite inclement weather. I had an opportunity to prove his point on my lighthouse excursion in Ludington. As I walked around Big Sable

Point in Ludington State Park, I felt a shift in the weather. The sky’s light cloud cover suddenly grew thick and menacing. A fierce wind began to whip up, leaving me cold and damp. I questioned how long I should linger around the stately black-and-white-striped lighthouse and its outbuildings. Just as I readied to leave, the sun emerged, casting the merest of pale rays over the landscape and adding a slight glow to ice formations and subtle drama to the clouds. I took a few photographs. I sat quietly with the image. I was enthralled.

PLAN IT! Michigan Lighthouses michiganlighthouse guide.com/list.html

The St. Joseph North Pier Outer Light is constructed of steel framing and covered with metal sheets. In the winter, long, zigzag ice formations are reminiscent of a large bird’s wings. MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024 61

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Hearty Party! Invite your friends over for a bowl of homemade soup to warm the soul B Y D AW N B A U S E

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ADOBE STOCK (BOTH PAGES)

inter is in full swing, and it’s my favorite time of year to spend time in a nice warm kitchen cooking up some nutrient-rich food after a month of overindulgences. Is there anything more comforting than sitting down to a bowl of hearty homemade soup to warm things up? Soups aren’t difficult to make; they just take time to prep and to cook — which is why I like to recruit a helper or two. One of my favorite healthy habits is to keep homemade soup on hand in the fridge, and more in the freezer. When I’m making soup, I always make more than one soup at a time, since I’m going to be in the kitchen for a while anyway. When I think of nutrient-rich foods, I think veggies, fish, meat, and beans. In the wintertime, I like roasted veggies for soups, sides, and appetizers. One of the great things about roasting veggies is it takes minimal prep time, and roasting gives them a unique flavor that you don’t get from steaming or boiling. Roasting vegetables slowly in the oven allows them to caramelize, and brings out their natural sweetness and flavors. This is a trick I learned in Italy, during my annual foodie tours. Italians love roasted vegetables and serve them all year round, as an appetizer and a side dish. Three of my favorite wintertime soups are roasted winter vegetable soup, Italian pasta e fagioli, and dill-infused creamy salmon, potato, and leek.

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Roasted Winter Vegetable Soup

Roasted Vegetable Soup: Peppers, carrots, and other colorful ingredients give this soup its pretty shade.

Oven-roasting the vegetables until they’re golden and caramelized adds lots of extra flavor to this comforting soup. Add freshly grated parmesan cheese for a creamy finish. Serves 4-6 (Double the recipe for leftovers or soup to freeze.) INGREDIENTS

2 large sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped into medium to small chunks 1 red bell pepper, deseeded and chopped into medium to small chunks 1 yellow bell pepper, deseeded and chopped into small chunks 2 large carrots, peeled and chopped into bite-size slices or chunks 3 cloves garlic, left in the skin ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 tsp. coarse kosher salt 1 bay leaf Pinch red pepper flakes ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 3 fresh sprigs of rosemary 1 red onion, peeled and chopped into smaller wedges 6 cups vegetable stock (homemade or store bought) 1/3 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese Several sprigs of fresh thyme DIRECTIONS

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place the chunks of sweet potato, red and yellow bell peppers, carrots, and garlic cloves (skin on) on a heavy-duty baking tray. Drizzle on the olive oil and sprinkle the salt and pepper lightly. Toss everything together using your hands. Place in the oven for 20 minutes, turning everything over after 10 minutes. When 20 minutes are up, add the red onion wedges and toss everything together again, so the onion gets coated in oil. Return to the oven for another 10-12 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and slightly caramelized. Remove from the oven. Put a couple of tablespoons of the roasted vegetables to one side for garnish, and place the rest in a large saucepan. Squeeze the

garlic out of their skins into the pan, too. Pour in the stock. Bring to a boil and simmer for five minutes. Turn off the heat and blend with a hand-held blender. Stir in the parmesan cheese, and season to taste with additional salt and pepper. Garnish with the reserved roasted vegetables, a sprinkling of grated parmesan, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, a few sprigs of fresh thyme, and a tiny dash of salt. TIPS FOR SUCCESS

When roasting veggies, be sure to arrange them on enough baking sheets so they’re in a single layer. Crowding can cause the veggies to cook unevenly and steam rather than roast, meaning less caramelization. Don’t forget to toss the veggies in a little olive oil, salt, and pepper before roasting. MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024 63

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Pasta e Fagioli

This favorite Italian soup is made with pasta, beans, and vegetables. Ditalini pasta is commonly used for this soup, but you can use any short pasta. The secret to Italian soups is to always chop the vegetables into bite-size pieces. Serves 4-6 (Double the recipe for leftovers or soup to freeze.)

Salmon, Potato, and Leek Soup: Don’t forget the dill!

INGREDIENTS

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 large onion, chopped small 2 large carrots, peeled and chopped small 2 celery stalks, chopped small 2 large garlic cloves, minced fine Dash chili flakes 1 sprig fresh rosemary, more for garnish 2 bay leaves 6 cups chicken or vegetable stock (for vegetarian option) 1 cup chopped peeled tomatoes, fresh or canned 1 cup Ditalini pasta (pre-cook and keep in the fridge) 2 15 oz. cans cannellini or borlotti beans, drained and rinsed (or 3 1/2 cups freshly cooked beans) 1/4 cup freshly chopped parsley Coarse kosher or Himalayan salt to taste Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/4 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese for garnish 1-inch chunk of parmesan rind (optional) DIRECTIONS

Pre-cook the pasta noodles until al dente. Remove, rinse in cold water, and drain. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and set aside until ready to add to the soup. Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Sauté the onions, carrots, and celery for 5 to 6 minutes, or until they’re soft and translucent. Add the garlic, chili flakes, rosemary, bay leaves, and a dash of salt, and sauté another minute or two. Add the stock and tomatoes, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for another 10 minutes. Remove the rosemary and bay leaves. Add the beans, and continue cooking for 5 to 6 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in the pasta and parsley, then add salt and black pepper to taste. Note: If you want a little creamier consistency, pulse-blend quickly with a hand-held blender just a few times. Serve in individual bowls. Garnish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, some freshly grated parmesan cheese, and a small piece of fresh rosemary.

Dill-Infused Salmon, Potato, and Leek Soup

This is one of my all-time favorite soups. As a big fan of salmon chowder and the French potato-leek soup, this recipe hits all the spots. Serves 4-6 (Double the recipe if you want leftovers and to freeze some.) INGREDIENTS

2 tbsp. olive oil 2 leeks, thinly sliced, white and light green parts only, rinsed, quartered lengthwise and sliced 2 carrots, diced bite-size 4 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed bite-size 2 tbsp. flour (substitute a gluten-free flour like potato or rice flour if needed) 4 cups vegetable stock 2 cups water 10 black peppercorns 2 bay leaves Salt (to taste) 2 pounds skinless salmon fillet, cut into bite-size pieces 1/2 cup half-and-half 1 tbsp. butter 2 generous handfuls of fresh dill, chopped (about 1 tbsp. chopped dill per serving) 1 lemon, sliced thin

Do not cook the pasta in the soup if you’re making enough for leftovers or want to freeze some. It’s better to cook the pasta ahead of time, undercook it a couple minutes, then drain and run cool water over it to stop the cooking. Toss with a splash of extra virgin olive oil so noodles won’t stick together. Add the noodles at the end, just before serving, or add them to the soup when you’re reheating it. Don’t freeze the soup with the noodles in it, as they will be too mushy and change the texture and freshness. Just thaw the soup, heat it up, and add freshly cooked noodles before serving.

Heat the olive oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until they start to caramelize (about 2 to 3 minutes). Add the carrots and potatoes. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables start to soften (about 4 minutes). Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir until the vegetables are evenly coated. Add the vegetable stock, water, black peppercorns, and bay leaves, plus a handful of dill. Season with salt to taste. Bring to a boil over

PHOTO COURTESY OF DAWN BAUSE

DIRECTIONS TIPS FOR SUCCESS

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF ADOBE STOCK (TOP); DAWN BAUSE (INSET)

Pasta e Fagioli brims with beans and pasta.

medium heat. Reduce heat, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes or until the potatoes are cooked through. Add the salmon pieces and stir gently to distribute them evenly in the pot. Cover the pot and simmer until the fish is cooked through, about 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the cream and butter, and taste to adjust for salt. Serve with fresh dill and lemon slices. TIPS FOR SUCCESS

If you’re making extra soup to freeze, omit the cream. When you thaw the soup and reheat it, add the cream just before serving. When freezing soup, be sure to use an airtight container or freezer bag. I always let the soup cool before freezing.

Chef Dawn Bause, left, was born, raised, and is still living on Long Lake in Commerce Township. Her love for food and cooking began as a teenager studying abroad. Five years later, she returned home to open several European-style restaurants. Her love for Italy and Italian food started after her wedding in Venice in 1991. Soon thereafter, she co-authored the cookbook “Romance Begins in the Kitchen, Romantic Italian Recipes and their Complementary Wines” with Modesta DeVita and Nidal Daher. In 2006, she and her husband, Fred, started the travel company Viva Italy Tours, LLC. They enjoy leading small groups on food and wine tours in Italy. More info: vivaitaltytoursllc.com MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024 65

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Divine in the Dunes A stunning vacation home south of Ludington protects the sand, floating 16 feet above the ground B Y G I U S E P PA N A D R O W S K I

PHOTOGR APHY BY JANE MESSENGER

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This page and previous page: Wanting to touch the protected sand as little as possible, the home was placed on concrete piers and executed with minimal extra space. To ensure the structure still feels connected to the landscape, a cantilevered, wrap-around deck was installed.

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very project has challenges to overcome, but in the case of this postcard-perfect home south of Ludington, the challenges — complex, plentiful, and without a doubt difficult — were an unexpected catalyst that pushed the boundaries of this dwelling’s design while also celebrating the beauty of its pristine Lake Michigan location. The results are breathtaking. For architect Garth Goldstein, of Cambridge, Mass.-based Garth Goldstein Studio Inc., the fourseason home was a modernist expression of the site’s constraints (it floats 16 feet above the sand on a protected dune site). The homeowners, whose family has owned the beachfront property since 1948, wanted to maximize the functionality of the house and its sweeping vistas while minimizing the home’s environmental footprint. The challenges of building on a state-regulated critical dune and highrisk erosion area, a need for a specialized septic field (there wasn’t a lot of real estate to spread out a standard leach field), a buried power line that ran right through the building site and had to be moved, and some Pitcher’s thistle, an endangered plant species that cannot be disturbed and grows on the foredune in front of the house, demanded that the construction process had to be perfectly planned and calculated. Wanting to touch the protected sand as little as possible, the home was placed on concrete piers and custom-built trusses of glue-laminated (glulam) timber. When construction started in 2013, drones weren’t as common as they are today, so to determine the ideal elevation of the deck for optimal views, Goldstein employed cameras on poles to shoot images of the coast and slopes to optimize height and conform with county building codes. To ensure the home still felt connected to the landscape, a cantilevered wrap-around deck complete with an outdoor shower, grilling station, and a hinged access ramp that rests on the dune were installed. The ramp was selected in place of stairs, so it can rise and fall with the perpetually changing elevation of the sand. MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024 69

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This page: Contractor Jeremy Horton explains that the residence has natural wood floors throughout, a customdesigned kitchen with a glulam bar top, and locally built stainless steel cable railing systems. Opposite page: The home blends quietly into the surrounding slopes, as the owners requested, thanks to its exterior. A weathering stain and bleaching oil were applied to the cedar siding, and will make it appear more evenly weathered.

In addition to the supporting trusses that elevate the house, the entire home was framed in glulam timber — an approach that permits massive windows while still providing structural strength in Michigan’s strong winter gales. “The idea was to elevate the house and use this timber structure to create an interesting way to do that, both structurally and visually,” says Eric Fraser, president and CEO of New York-based New Energy Works, a custom timber-framing company that, along with consulting engineer Duncan McElroy of Fire Tower Engineered Timber, an engineering company specializing in heavy timber and glulam timber framing, and Harbor Design & Construction, a local Shelby-based general contractor and builder, worked on the project Goldstein designed. Fraser, who led the team that built the glulam timber of Douglas fir from Washington state, says the timbers were all treated with a preservative treatment that doesn’t change the look or appearance. “It’s really nice for a project like this, which is intended to both perform and look beautiful,” he adds. The timbers are also visually appealing, Fraser

notes. “They can be very dramatic and create large open spaces.” Goldstein explains that the timbers were what “helped define the aesthetic” of the home. Used throughout, their size and presence truly impress in the large, open, great room where black-framed windows illuminate the two stories of the home while anchoring the family’s living space and offering a sweeping, unobstructed view of the western horizon. Sliding glass doors on both the west and east side of the home “are large commercial-style panels that came from a special supplier on the East Coast,” says Jeremy Horton, owner of Harbor Design & Construction. The doors facilitate cross-ventilation, cooling the entire house when needed. “The residence also has natural wood floors throughout, a customdesigned kitchen (with a glulam bar top), and locally built stainless steel (cable) railing systems,” Horton says. Sturdy and functional elements like the woodburning fireplace, concealed TV cabinet, expansive bookshelves, and laid-back décor are guaranteed to withstand years of lakeside living. “Garth, our architect, did a fantastic job siting and lifting the house skyward to maximize the view.

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“THE IDEA WAS TO ELEVATE THE HOUSE AND USE THIS TIMBER STRUCTURE ... BOTH STRUCTURALLY AND VISUALLY.” — ERIC FRASER

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When you’re looking west, all you see is sand, water, and sky. His attention to detail was extraordinary, too,” the homeowner says. “From the subtle narrowing of the stairway up to the main entrance to the way he placed the eastern windows to frame the view of individual trees, to the expansive sense of openness in the Great Room, he brought so much insight to this project. We couldn’t be happier with how it turned out, or recommend him more highly to anyone seeking an extraordinary architect.” The homeowners, who often entertain extended family and friends, wanted to utilize the approximately 2,500-square-foot space to its fullest potential. Murphy beds in an upstairs writing studio and on the screened-in porch provide extra sleeping space. “This is a special spot for us. Long before we built the house, my mother would bicycle down from Ludington — about 12 miles each way — just to sit on the hillside and take in the beauty,” the homeowner says. “Since building the house, we get to enjoy this view year-round, and it’s just as beautiful in a winter storm as it is on a calm summer evening, watching the Badger steaming back from Wisconsin. We also see eagles, herons, gulls, swans, fox, and deer — wildlife that offers our grandchildren a wonderful opportunity to observe nature up close.” Completed in 2016, the two-and-a-half-bath home is completely electric, uses a heat pump to control cooling and heating, has electrically controlled shades to combat the sun’s natural heating rays (in the winter, those rays are a welcomed passive heating source), and features a robust solar photovoltaic (PV) array on the roof. It also blends quietly into the surrounding slopes, as the homeowners requested, thanks to its exterior. A weathering stain and bleaching oil were applied to the cedar siding to give it an evenly weathered look, Goldstein notes. “I spent a week in the house with my family, and we loved it,” says Goldstein, who grew up with the homeowners’ son. “And that’s a credit to the owners, because they had the vision to want to do this. They understood that the site was difficult and that it would require a couple of strong gestures to make it possible, and they were fully behind that. That’s what made it work.” Both pages: Sturdy and functional elements like the wood-burning fireplace, glulam kitchen bar top, and laid-back décor ensure fun for generations to come. (A glulam procedure features sheets of wood that are pressure-bonded with waterproof adhesives, resulting in a timber material that is said to be stronger than conventional methods, moisture-resistant, and fire-retardant.) 72 MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024

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BUYER’S GUIDE ARCHITECTURE Garth Goldstein Studio Inc., Cambridge, Mass. KITCHEN Backsplash – American Olean Cabinetry – Woodways, Grand Rapids Countertops – Custom, Birch Plywood with Palm, Woodways, Grand Rapids, with Corian Solid Surface Faucet – Malleco, Kohler Microwave – Custom Stainless Shelving Unit with Microwave Oven, GE LIVING ROOM Ceiling Treatment – Tongue and Groove Cedar Fireplace – Ladera Fireplace, Lennox, with Custom Blackened Steel Surround Flooring – Plain Sawn White Oak Lights, Ceiling – Haiku Fans Shelving – Rakks EXTERIOR Deck – Composite Decking, TimberTech ADDITIONAL CONTRIBUTORS Engineering – Fire Tower Engineered Timber Construction – Harbor Design & Construction, Shelby Framing – New Energy Works

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Cozy up by a fireplace and relax in the inviting guest rooms this winter at these three dreamy inns

BY DIAN NA STAMPFLER

PHOTO COURTESY OF C&C FRITZ PHOTOGRAPHY

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PLAN IT! Castle in the Country castleinthecountry.com Henderson Castle hendersoncastle.com

HENDERSON CASTLE PHOTO COURTESY OF WILLIAM DOLAK; CASTLE IN THE COUNTRY PHOTO COURTESY OF CASTLE IN THE COUNTRY

The Historic Webster House historicwebsterhouse.com

Both pages, clockwise from left: The Historic Webster House in Bay City is a treasured bed-andbreakfast. The pretty exterior of The Castle in the Country is a must-see. Henderson Castle has shone as a crown jewel of the Kalamazoo community since it was completed in 1895.

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nowy days make for magical getaways at Michigan’s quaint fairytale inns. CAS TL E I N T H E C O UN T R Y Step into a cozy Victorian world at the Castle in the Country on the outskirts of Allegan, between Grand Rapids and Kalamazoo. Just 30 miles from the Lake Michigan shoreline, this sprawling 65-acre estate includes the original 1906 former summer home of John H. and Caroline Wurtz, as well as a modern new farmhouse with an inviting sitting area, book nook, and spa. Between the two buildings, 10 distinct guest rooms and suites pay homage to noble figures like Sir Lancelot, King Arthur, Lady Guinevere, and Romeo and Juliet. Each features a two-person jetted tub, king bed, and gas fireplace. The 600-square-foot Kingdom Suite boasts a wood-burning fireplace and a Jacuzzi in the separate seating area, while the private bath has a two-person shower with rainfall heads. After a scratch-made breakfast, guests are encouraged to borrow snowshoes and enjoy a trek along the property’s three-mile Enchanted Forest or venture to the nearby Allegan State Game Area, where designated trails are open for cross-country skiing, hiking, and even horseback riding.

The adjacent Fennville Farm Unit also provides great opportunities to see wildlife, including bald eagles and snowy owls. Private 40-minute horse-drawn sleigh rides through the serene countryside, reminiscent of days gone by, are available at Wild West Ranch in Fennville. Back at the Castle, guest rooms invite quiet relaxation, reading, and napping, while the outdoor deck serves as a gathering place with a fire table to keep the chill at bay. For a more intimate experience, reserve a few hours in a temperature-controlled igloo, complete with a fireplace, romantic lighting, comfy seating, and blankets. The igloo is also stocked with local wine and a plentiful charcuterie board. For something above and beyond, the Royal Treatment Package enhances any two-night stay with an in-room breakfast; a 60-minute on-site, full-body couple’s massage; a picnic basket packed with snacks and a bottle of local wine; and a $60 dinner voucher for a local restaurant such as Salt of the Earth in nearby Fennville. The spa is also open for stand-alone treatments, schedule permitting. HENDERSO N C A STLE Perched on a hilltop overlooking downtown Kalamazoo, Henderson Castle has shone as a crown jewel of the community since it was completed in 1895. The 11,000-square-foot, 25-room Queen Anne style home was built for industrialist Frank Henderson and his wife, Mary, and was crafted from Lake Superior sandstone and brick. The interior showcases a rich blend of bird’s eye maple, mahogany, birch, American sycamore, and quartered oak, with adornments like lead and stained-glass windows, crystal chandeliers, and heated marble floors. This iconic edifice now operates as an elegant 12-guest room boutique bedand-breakfast, where romantic dreams become reality. Frank Henderson’s private quarters in the south tower have been converted into the Italian Suite, featuring

antique furniture throughout the boudoir and adjoining sitting area, as well as a 13head shower in the majestic lavatory. Tucked into the third-floor turret, the Queen’s Tower room features an antique bed discovered during castle renovations and an outdoor balcony with views of downtown. The exotic Tibetan Room is graced with a hand-painted tin ceiling inset with optic lights that gradually change color, and a hand-painted tile mural in the bathroom evokes an Asian vibe. For a more private stay, the Cottage Suite B in the former carriage house includes a spacious seating area and whirlpool tub — ideal for a cold winter night. Fine dining can be found in the French-inspired H Prime Chophouse, headed by Chef Francois Louis Moyet, who acquired the inn in 2011. Indulge on puff-pastry-wrapped imported French brie, caviar, and aged steaks drizzled with bearnaise, bordelaise, au poivre, or beurre blanc sauces. Savory desserts such as crème brûlée or pot de crème are a decadent way to cap off the evening. Craft cocktails and an array of wines — including six made with estate-grown grapes — are available in the Spirits Lounge. A variety of elevated experiences can be found within the castle walls. Moyet, who also has a degree in naturopathic medicine, offers calming Swedish massages and facials — utilizing an all-natural Henderson Castle skin care line — in the on-site Spa & Naturopathic Wellness Center. A new year-round swim spa, rooftop hot tub, and steam room are among the other rejuvenating amenities for guests. “With its beautiful décor and historic charm, Henderson Castle is a great destination for a cozy winter getaway,” says Dana Wagner, director of marketing and communications at Discover Kalamazoo, the local visitors’ bureau. “Each room is full of luxurious comfort, inviting you to step away into an enchanting world.” Just a few minutes from the castle, downtown Kalamazoo is home to several museums, theaters, restaurants, breweries,

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF CASTLE IN THE COUNTRY

It’s a Victorian world (with lots of modern amenities) at Castle in the Country, located on the outskirts of Allegan, between Grand Rapids and Kalamazoo. Guest rooms feature rich colors, comfortable beds, and unique artwork.

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T HE HI ST O R I C W E BS T E R H O US E Civil War veteran, lawyer, and probate judge Thomas E. Webster commissioned the construction of his stately brick Bay City mansion in 1886. Today, it stands as a treasured bed-and-breakfast aptly named The Historic Webster House. A regal ambience is noticeable throughout every level of this historic inn. The main floor common areas have been carefully restored with period wall coverings, custom draperies of Scalamandre fabrics, and faux painting, which all complement the antique furniture and décor. Anchored by an Eastlake fireplace, the welcoming parlor is a popular place to warm up with a cup of tea or a glass of wine on a chilly winter day. Bradbury and Bradbury custom wallpaper gives an Asian

massage, deep-tissue massage, hot stone massage, or aromatherapy treatments. For those who want to explore the great outdoors, the nearby Chippewa Nature Center offers 19 miles of trails for hiking, snowshoeing, and cross-country skiing. Just 20 minutes west, the Canopy Walk at the Whiting Forest (adjacent to Midland’s Dow Gardens) is not to be missed. Open year-round, this 1,400-foot elevated pathway is touted as the longest in the country. An additional three miles of trails, including 1.5 miles of ADA-accessible pathways, bridges, and boardwalks, makes this a popular destination no matter the season. If time permits, check out the Mid-century Modern home and studio of famed architect Alden B. Dow. After a day of exploring, stop by Prost! Wine Bar & Charcuterie, which recently opened a location in downtown Bay City near the riverfront. In addition to fine wines, craft beers, and flavorful cocktails, the menu offers a diverse range of meats, cheeses, wraps, salads, small plates, and hearty entrées. Musicians play live several nights a week.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE HISTORIC WEBSTER HOUSE AND HENDERSON CASTLE

and distilleries, while those looking to spend time outside can explore the Lillian Anderson Arboretum, Kalamazoo Nature Center, or Kal-Haven Trail.

flair to the breakfast room, where guests enjoy delicious meals every morning. Each of the inn’s six guest rooms is unique. The most distinctive in style, size, and location is The Keep Room — a fiveroom king suite that sprawls across the entire lower level. This retreat space has a massive, polished stone wall, an electric fireplace, and a private seating area, along with an impressive ensuite bath with a double-head rain shower, spa/dry sauna, and large two-person whirlpool tub. “The Webster House is an elegant step back in time,” says Susan Becker of nearby Freeland, who has made a staycation out of her four visits with her husband, Walter. “We keep going back because it’s so close to home.” Each visit means the chance to experience a different room at the inn. “We’ve stayed in three different rooms, all gorgeous,” Becker notes. “The Keep Room is our favorite; it’s a luxurious retreat. We also like the breakfast in bed option, where it’s brought right to your room.” Other guest spaces include The Webster Room, The Magistrate’s Room, and The Judge’s Chambers, all on the third floor, and The Signature two-room suite on the second floor, complete with a whirlpool soaking tub and infrared sauna. With any room, there’s the option to add spa services like a one-hour relaxation

Left to right: Unique guest room adornments await those who book a stay at The Historic Webster House. The Historic Webster House gathering room welcomes visitors with vintage charm and a lovely fireplace. A cozy Henderson Castle guest room.

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PROMOTIONAL CONTENT

On the Waterfront: Experience Life and Leisure in Michigan WITH WINTER IN FULL SWING, now is the perfect time to arrange for an adventure, whether it’s a cold weather weekend getaway or day trip—or if you’re thinking about making your once-vacation destination your permanent home or summer cottage. In Michigan, there are plenty of options to explore. Not only are there the beautiful Great Lakes, but in between are an abundance of smaller, inland lakes and waterways that charm in every season. Add in nearby forests and trails, bustling downtowns, and fun entertainment districts, and your leisure time has just planned itself! There is truly something for everyone in the Mitten, and there are experts in every corner to help you make the best decisions and the most of your time. Still deciding where to start? Look to the destinations and resources we’re featuring in this section for ideas and advice!

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PROMOTIONAL CONTENT

Visit Muskegon

More than a beachy suMMer destination, Muskegon offers something for everyone all year round. When it starts to cool down, this lakeshore city heats up with exciting activities, from recreation to performances to world-class art. The Muskegon Luge Adventure Sports Park, which has worked with the Disability Network West Michigan on accessibility for people of all abilities, is a local favorite. As the days grow shorter, the park lights up for extended evening hikes. Once winter conditions are in full effect, more adventure awaits: Skate on the ice rink or the quarter-mile trail through the woods, snowshoe along the Lake Michigan shoreline, cross-country ski on 15 kilometers of trails, or sled like an Olympian on the 650-foot luge track. There’s so much to

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do, you’ll want a season pass! If the arts are more your speed, head to the Frauenthal Center in downtown Muskegon for a variety of performances — whether it’s the West Michigan Symphony, a musical, a movie, a comedy show, or live music. Many performers also take their acts across the street to The Block for more intimate gatherings. While the Frauenthal can hold up to 1,700 guests, The Block accommodates only 110 patrons, ensuring an interactive experience. Attending both venues in the same night is a must for serious music aficionados. The Muskegon Museum of Art, in addition to being widely recognized for its permanent collection, which includes works by John Steuart Curry, Edward Hopper, Winslow Homer, Elizabeth Cat-

lett, and Pierre Bonnard, will add 150 figurative realist paintings created by women artists to its collection, thanks to a generous donation by prominent art collectors Steven Alan Bennett and Dr. Elaine Melotti Schmidt. The new collection will be housed in a $15 million expansion space, slated to open in January 2025, which will more than double the size of the museum. Photo by Jennifer Green Photography.

Visit Muskegon 610 W. Western Ave. Muskegon, MI 49440 800-250-9283 visitmuskegon.org

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PROMOTIONAL CONTENT

Dalton & Tomich, PLC Part of the joy of living in Michigan is the abundance of waterways, whether it’s inland lakes, the Great Lakes, or the many winding rivers. The opportunity to own property on the water is truly a privilege, but it can come with its own set of challenges. Before taking the plunge to purchase your dream lakefront or riverside property, it’s important to understand your rights when it comes to docks, water access, and what’s considered fair use. If you’ve already secured a property and are experiencing issues or see them on the horizon, it’s paramount to have the right guidance and counsel in your corner. Dalton & Tomich, PLC are attorneys who focus on land use and zoning, with an emphasis on riparian and waterfront

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issues — a unique and nuanced area of legal practice. They deal with permitting through the Michigan Department of Environment, Great Lakes, and Energy (EGLE) and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, and can assist with neighbor conflicts and preparing and appealing permitting decisions. Based in Detroit, Dalton & Tomich serves all of Michigan, and has experience and knowledge in this area of specialization that most attorneys don’t. Clients seek out Dalton & Tomich for various waterfront-related issues — and often, it isn’t because of a dispute. The team may also provide due diligence or expert analysis prior to a waterfront property purchase. Larry Opalewski, who leads the land use and zoning practice

area, says, “We prefer to avoid litigation in most cases because it takes time and money, and doesn’t help to foster neighborly relationships.” In the event that litigation does become necessary, the team at Dalton & Tomich has the vital experience to achieve a good outcome. A free, 30-minute consultation with the team can help you decide next steps. Visit daltontomich.com to learn more.

Dalton & Tomich, PLC 719 Griswold St., Suite 270 Detroit, MI 48226 313-859-6000 daltontomich.com

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PHOTO COURTESY OF NICK CRAWFORD

The Dos Árboles team gets creative with their signature drinks, all made from a variety of hand-squeezed juices. A collection of more than 320 tequilas and mezcals also is available.

86 Dining Out Frankfort’s Dos Árboles mixes a creative combination of authentic Mexican flavors and Americanstyle cuisine.

88 Book It The spacious Sweetwater Sea B&B in Greenbush capitalizes on its picturesque Lake Huron setting.

90 Discoveries A new high-speed ski lift is part of a welcoming $10million transformation at the U.P.’s Snowriver Mountain Resort.

92 Tasting Room MAWBY Vineyards and Winery celebrates 50 years as Michigan’s sparkling Bubble King.

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Dining Out

Top and above: Owners Nick and Natalie Crawford.

A From-Scratch, Farm-Fresh Approach Frankfort’s Dos Árboles restaurant mixes a creative combination of authentic Mexican flavors and American-style cuisine

By Mark Spezia

cross the street from Lake Michigan’s Betsie Bay, patrons entering Mexican-themed Dos Árboles, one of Frankfort’s newest dining destinations, are greeted by a cozy, festive atmosphere awash in rich colors. Turquoise, deep rose, ebony, and a buttery yellow blend with stone and natural wood. Paintings from Mexico City adorn the walls. The 12-seat bar’s concrete 86

countertop is comprised of stones native to Michigan, including Petoskey and Leland Blues. A collection of more than 320 tequilas and mezcals, one of the state’s largest, rises above the bar on shelves that reach the ceiling. A rolling, library-style ladder provides access. Dining room seating consists of tables and comfortable, clamshell-style booths. On select evenings, the sound of musicians playing acoustic sets fills the room.

Nick Crawford and his wife/executive chef, Natalie, opened Dos Árboles (Spanish for two trees) in May of 2022. The eatery is located next door to Birch & Maple, which the couple opened in 2018 after relocating from Colorado. Birch & Maple serves farm-fresh breakfast, lunch, and dinner with twists on traditional American and some international cuisine. It also boasts an extensive craft cocktail collection. The couple originally purchased the building, formally an antiques store, in the fall of 2019, with plans to expand Birch & Maple. Construction was set to begin in March 2020. “We all know what happened then, and the pandemic gave Natalie and me plenty of time to reflect on what we really wanted to do with our future,” Nick says. “When traveling, we always seek out the best Mexican-style restaurants, so we switched course and went all-in on a Mexican-inspired, friendly place that would attract us if we were visiting Frankfort.”

PHOTOS COURTESY OF NICK CRAWFORD (BOTH PAGES)

Left: One of the many Mexican-themed dishes created by Executive Chef Natalie Crawford.

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Dining Out

The downtown Frankfort restaurant offers customers a festive atmosphere in which to enjoy a variety of farmfresh menu items.

PLAN IT! Construction began on the Crawfords’ new vision in October of 2020. Like Birch & Maple, Dos Árboles takes a from-scratch, farm-fresh approach to its menu. Natalie, a graduate of Traverse City’s Great Lakes Culinary Institute, has crafted selections that showcase her spin on dishes and traditional flavors from regions throughout Mexico. “Natalie really got creative in developing authentic, very flavorful, street taco-esque items,” Nick says. “I’d describe the menu as a hybrid of authentic Mexican food and some American-style cuisine. We encourage people to try different things.” Nick emphasizes the care and meticulous detail that goes into each menu item. Dos Árboles’ tacos, carnitas, and other dishes are made with meats such as pork and chicken that are slow-cooked through a process that takes about 12 hours and incorporates spices and a variety of peppers. “Even our black and pinto beans take three hours to prepare and include all kinds of Mexican spices,” he says. “Rice is made with our own seasoning mix. Our tortilla chips are also made in-house.” Among the most popular items is mole verde, a traditional Mexican sauce containing house-braised pork carnitas, poblano peppers, masa harina, and more than a dozen herbs and spices. The dish is served with flour tortillas. Other signature offerings are the adobo grilled steak and double-fried chicken thighs. They’re brined and double-fried with a Mexican tempura batter, tossed in a house barbecue sauce, and served with rice, beans and sautéed vegetables.

Dos Árboles, Frankfort dosarbolesfrankfort.com

Extensive taco offerings include chorizo rojo and potato, carnitas with braised pork shoulder, Tinga with chipotle-braised chicken, and camarones (shrimp). Vegan taco options include black bean hummus or chayote squash with sweet, pickled jalapenos. “We brine our chicken thighs for 24 hours before frying them twice in a tempura that includes Mexican beer and tequila and is tossed in our crunchy barbeque sauce,” Nick notes. “Then, we mix in beans, peppers, and pickled jalapenos. It’s a perfect meal for two.” Mattila Farms provides beef and pork, while Cold Creek Farm in Benzonia provides sustainable produce and hot sauces made exclusively for Dos Árboles. “Our signature drinks are all made from a variety of hand-squeezed juices, and we make our own margarita mix,” adds Nick, a mixologist and certified sommelier. “You won’t find five-gallon buckets in the back containing margarita mix that resembles anti-freeze.” In warmer months, Dos Árboles has plenty of outdoor seating with Lake Betsie views, including a ground-level patio and a 20-seat rooftop deck that’s perfect for catching sunsets. Nick (from Dayton, Ohio) and Natalie (from Rochester) met while working at The Stanley Hotel in Estes Park, Colo. Nick arrived there first, at the end of 2011. He decided to move West after visiting a friend

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in the area, where he became enthralled by mountain town life. After earning a business degree from Eastern Michigan University, he found a job but “wound up hating it,” so he launched a new career in the restaurant industry at age 26. Natalie has worked in restaurants since age 15. She earned a business administration degree from Oakland University before attending GLCI. As part of her program, she needed to serve a culinary externship before graduating, and someone at the institute suggested The Stanley Hotel. Natalie visited the hotel with her parents before beginning the externship in early 2012. There, she ordered a margarita from the man behind the bar — Nick. “Natalie jokes she knew she was going to marry me after tasting the first margarita I made for her,” Nick laughs. The Crawfords expanded their restaurant footprint in the area yet again before the end of 2023. The new owner of a 90-year-old building in Elberta that once housed the Mayfair Tavern, known for its legendary burgers, approached them about operating a new eatery there. “We’re paying homage to the Mayfair’s past with a menu I describe as elevated fast food — burgers, chicken tenders, fries, milkshakes, and boozy milkshakes,” Nick says. “It’s another exciting opportunity for us to continue playing a role in elevating the dining scene in the area we love.”

More than 320 tequilas and mezcals are featured in an inviting selection of craft cocktails. MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024

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Book It

A Retreat to Savor The spacious Sweetwater Sea B&B in Greenbush capitalizes on its picturesque Lake Huron beachfront setting By Bill Semion

hen he came upon Lake Huron in 1615, French explorer Samuel de Champlain saw its Canadian side with his Huron First Nations guides. He was taken aback by the magnificent expanse of fresh water nearly 100 miles across. He named it La Mere Douce, the Sweetwater Sea. More than 400 years later, when Cecilia and Mike Gabel were searching for a name for the bed and breakfast they were opening on a 150-foot stretch of sandy Lake Huron beach in May 2023, borrowing the name sweetwater made perfect sense. Sweetwater Sea Bed and Breakfast is smack in the middle of the state’s Sunrise Side, one of Michigan’s most picturesque areas. And if you don’t believe me, ask some of Sweetwater’s guests, like the four

sisters who were recently visiting from across the country and settled on the Gabels’ new five-bedroom, two-story home in Greenbush, about 10 miles north of Oscoda, for a reunion. “It’s beautiful here. The scenery is gorgeous, the place is gorgeous. We hope to repeat our visit because we love it here,” Christine Martines says. The sisters were wowed by the Lake Huron views. “It looks like an ocean when you look out. It looks just like Hawaii,” Martines says. “I could come back any day,” Linda Reeser adds. “Nobody would be disappointed. The hospitality is phenomenal. The food is like a five-star restaurant.” The view is why the Gabels settled on this stretch of beach to open their inn. It’s something they’d planned to do after years of exploring different locations.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF AMANDA BERGERON/SWEETWATER SEA BED AND BREAKFAST; DENISE SEMION (OPPOSITE PAGE)

An airy great room and the adjacent dining area frame a stunning view of Lake Huron.

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Book It

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PLAN IT!

Sweetwater Sea Bed and Breakfast thesweetwaterseabedandbreakfast.com

Winter activities include cross-country skiing and snowshoeing along the Au Sable River, or in Negwegon State Park. In summer, you can golf at local courses, canoe, hike nearby trail systems, or relax on the sandy beachfront that beckons you to swim, stroll, and hunt for stones. Bring your kayak to see the bones of a 19th century shipwreck just offshore. You can also tour the historic Sturgeon Point Lighthouse, or drive along the designated scenic byway, which follows the Au Sable River heading west from Oscoda. Cecilia Gabel is retired from her job as a school art teacher, and Mike is a Ford systems engineer who works remotely. They already had a cabin in Curtisville, near a county park that’s on the Au Sable River west of Oscoda, but Cecilia wanted a bit more water in her view. In 2013, they got the idea of running a bed and breakfast. A short stint as innkeepers at a friend’s B&B on Mackinac Island a few

Above: B&B owners/hosts Cecilia and Mike Gabel prepare out-of-the-ordinary breakfasts.

Above: Waves rolling onto the inn’s 150-foot stretch of sandy beach often lull visitors to sleep in the second-floor guest rooms.

years later cemented their dream. In summer 2020, during a stay in Curtisville, the couple began planning, and found their place on Lake Huron. Mike designed the 4,000-square-foot home himself, with suggestions from the local contractor who built it. He also designed the walls to dampen noise. Cecilia wanted the decor to evoke a “modern beach house” theme. The home is stick-built with timber accents in the welcoming first-floor great room. Guest bedrooms named after Great Lakes are on both floors. One first-floor room is ADA-compliant, and there’s a front porch wheelchair lift. The lower floor has a small refrigerator, microwave, and, of course, that beachfront — along with outdoor seating on a paver brick patio graced with a raised gas fire bowl. There’s also a grill and outdoor dining area, and an indoor living area with a TV. Outside, there’s an electric vehicle charger. The Gabels wanted the property to be a step up from a motel and cabins, and it is. Two of the four rooms have lakefront views, and the windows open so guests can be lulled to sleep by waves breaking on the shore. All four rooms (the fifth is reserved for the innkeepers’ quarters) can be reserved for 10 guests at a package rate. The first-floor great room common area is separated from the breakfast room and

kitchen, and the Gabels’ personal space, by a sliding barn-style door. Many of the paintings inside are Cecilia’s work. While the Gabels will sometimes join guests around the fire, Mike says they’re innkeepers first, then hosts. “We give people their space,” he says, “but I’ve never understood why someone would own a big home and not have guests. We have all this beauty, and we love to share it with people.” Welcome the morning with a choice of coffee or teas from Livonia’s Fraser Tea in the great room and be prepared for a truly out-of-the ordinary breakfast; Cecilia perfected her kitchen skills by taking classes at the Somerset Collection’s Sur La Table. “I serve a savory dish, with eggs, like a frittata, and then something sweet, like a raspberry bread, almond cake, or apple pie muffins,” she says. Baked stuffed French toast is often served on Sundays. On my visit, we enjoyed eggs seasoned with Parmesan and oregano, cradled in a thin slice of ham, with a side of cherry tomatoes roasted in olive oil. It was followed by a yogurt parfait with fruit compote, and a piece or three of sweet cherry muffin cake, accompanied by homemade bread with roasted peach jam from the nearby Wandering Winds Farm in Spruce. A stay at the B&B is an experience that surely would have wowed the original namer of the Sweetwater Sea. MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024 89

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Discoveries

A Modern, New Look By Mark Spezia

s he watched a helicopter take flight not long after dawn broke on a picturesque morning last July, the reality of what was happening overcame Snowriver Mountain Resort General Manager Ben Bartz. After months of excavation and foundation-laying, a UH-60 Black Hawk was buzzing overhead, beginning the process of transporting and setting into place eight towers, eight cross arms, and 16 sheave trains for the Wakefield resort’s dynamic new Doppelmayr detachable, high-speed, six-person chairlift, the first of its kind in the Upper Peninsula. It’s only the third six-person lift and the seventh high-speed lift in the state. The lift, scheduled to be ready for the 2023-24 season, replaces three lifts with 90

a combined age of 172 years at Jackson Creek Summit (formerly Indianhead), the larger of Snowriver’s two ski/snowboard areas. The other, Black River Basin, was once known as Blackjack and is a 10-minute shuttle ride away. Both were renamed for rivers that flow through the property. The lift, The Voyageur Express, is what snowsports enthusiasts will likely notice most during their visit this winter. It’s just one facet of a roughly $10-million overhaul the resort has been undergoing since Midwest Family Ski Resorts owner Charles Skinner Jr. completed his purchase of the property in August of 2022. At that point, the name changed from Big Snow Resort to Snowriver. Indianhead and Blackjack had operated independently before joining together and becoming Big Snow in 2008. The flurry of activity since last ski season ended included carving out new glades, expanding terrain park offerings, adding more snowmaking capacities, and improving trail networks on both hills. Indoors, a slew of upgrades have transformed Snowriver’s lodging experience, and several of its dining establishments have undergone significant renovations. Inviting Upgrades “Our hope is that people who are coming back to Snowriver will hardly recognize the place and feel like they’re getting a modern, mountain-resort type of experience with everything feeling updated and fresh,” Bartz says. “Our extreme makeover ski resort edition has been exciting to watch. Some guests staying here during the summer were blown away by the transformation. People looking around from the top of either hill mostly see wild, naturally forested land and very little development between Snowriver and Lake Superior.” The Voyageur Express features 53 chairs (which could be upgraded to 60 in the future) with an uphill carrying capacity of

PLAN IT!

Snowriver Mountain Resort snowriver.com

2,800 riders (can be upgraded to 3,200) per hour. The ride time to the top of Jackson Creek is a mere three and a half minutes — a major improvement from the nearly nine minutes of previous lift rides. Overall, the two ski areas, annually blanketed by more than 200 inches of snow, offer 51 trails, 11 lifts, 19 glade areas, three terrain parks, and six mogul runs on more than 400 skiable acres. All but 20 percent of the runs are classified as intermediate, advanced, or expert. Jackson Creek boasts one of the biggest vertical drops in Michigan at 638 feet, and its Voyagers Highway is a memorable run featuring nearly 20 acres of slope. There’s also a beginner’s area right outside the Summit Chalet at Jackson Creek. A steep, new glade area called Catamaran Cliffs was carved out during the off-season on wooded cliffs to the right of Jackson Creek’s east T-bar run, and it’s Snowriver’s largest at 3.5 acres. In all, Black River Basin features 490 feet of vertical, a terrain park, and five glades. Jackson Creek and Black River are also connected via two snowshoe trails.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MIDWEST FAMILY SKI RESORTS (BOTH PAGES)

The U.P.’s Snowriver Mountain Resort introduces a high-speed ski lift as part of its $10-million transformation

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Discoveries

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ROOM PHOTO COURTESY OF KYLE BRASCH/SNOWRIVER MOUNTAIN RESORT

Above: Skiers now enjoy new glades, improved trail networks, and expanded terrain park offerings complemented by more snowmaking capacities. Right: Various upgrades have transformed Snowriver’s lodging experiences. Top left: Snowriver’s updated main lodge overlooks the Wakefield-area terrain. Opposite page: One of 11 lifts at the resort’s two ski areas, which also feature 51 trails and 400 skiable acres.

Snowriver’s lodging options are plentiful, and include home and cabin rentals. The Lodge at Jackson Creek underwent the most extensive overhaul this year, with new flooring, paint, furniture, and fixtures throughout all 20 rooms. The lobby, pool, and spa and sauna areas also were renovated. New flooring was installed at the Black River Basin Chalet, and the Gabbro Suites rooms received a refresh. “Our lodging ranges from cozy to accommodating groups as large as 15,” Bartz says. “People can ski in and out of our slope-side lodging. Guests are going to be amazed by all we’ve done with the Jackson Creek lodge. The blue, pink, yellow, and green bathrooms are gone. The faded, duct-taped, green carpet is finally out of the Black River Basin Chalet.” Dining possibilities range from graband-go to relaxing, sit-down experiences complete with live music. Jackson Creek’s

offerings include Jack’s Bar & Grille, the Sugar Maple Cafe, Creekside Bar, Legacy Restaurant, and Dudley’s Bar. Gabbro Grille is at Black River Basin. New carpeting has been installed at Gabbro Grille, and the stage was relocated to better accommodate music lovers and enable management to book bigger acts. Legacy received new dividing walls, paint, carpeting, lighting, and a modern, matteblack drop ceiling. The 28-year-old Bartz, a Tomahawk, Wis., native, was named Snowriver GM less than two weeks after Skinner acquired the property. Midwest Family Ski Resorts also operates Granite Peak in Wausau, Wis., and Lusten Mountain Ski Area in Lusten, Minn. Bartz skied at both Snowriver and Granite Peak growing up, and attended Gogebic Community College in Ironwood as well as Northern Michigan University. He graduated with a ski area business

management degree in 2017, and then spent five years in management at Giants Ridge Ski Resort in Biwabik, Minn. In just his first three months at Snowriver, Bartz oversaw the renovation of Sugar Maple Chalet, Gabbro Suites, and the opening of the resort’s retail offerings, rental area, and ticket locations. New snowmaking equipment was installed. Future plans include a lift connecting the two ski areas, additional lodging, and all the necessary snowmaking equipment to consistently offer winter sports action from mid-November through mid-April. MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024

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Tasting Room

Cheers to 50 Years The Leelanau Peninsula’s MAWBY Vineyards and Winery celebrates a sparkling milestone as Michigan’s Bubble King By Susan R. Pollack

Top: MAWBY committed to “all things bubbly” in the mid-1990s. Team members love to share stories about the sparkling wines with guests. Above: The fruit-forward sparklers are a tasteful addition to any gathering.

or decades, Michigan-made MAWBY wines have added sparkle to special occasions, from birthdays and baby showers to holidays, graduations, and weddings. Throughout 2023, the award-winning winery, which produces only bubblies (sparkling wines, ciders, and canned spritzers), celebrated its visionary founder, Larry Mawby, who planted his first grapevines 50 years ago on the Leelanau Peninsula near Traverse City. Fondly known as “the Bubble King,” he eased into retirement a few years ago, but continues to mentor his successors, with whom he partnered in 2009.

“Fifty years is obviously quite a milestone for this region,” says Peter Laing, who, with his brother, Michael, owns and runs the pioneering winery, one of northern Michigan’s oldest commercial vineyards. “The fact that it’s still going strong and growing is a testament to the great foundation laid by Larry Mawby (and others involved in its development, including Stu Laing). It’s an honor for us to carry on the traditions and build on that foundation.” Cited many times for his wine-making achievements since 1973, MAWBY committed to “all things bubbly” in the mid-1990s after determining that Leelanau County’s shorter, cooler growing season — with moderating lake effect — was ideal for the grape varietals used to make sparkling Champagne-style wines. Today, the winery produces more than 25,000 cases annually. MAWBY’s portfolio of more than 20 beverages includes bottle-fermented sparkling wines such as Blanc, Grace, and Talismon, plus a handful of sparkling ciders, canned spritzers, limited-production wine sparklers, and seasonal releases. MAWBY prides itself on making its sparkling wines two ways: in the Methode Champenoise, or traditional bottle-fermented style, for its high-end wines, which are aged from two to seven years; and tank-fermented sparklers for more immediate consumption. The bubbles, twice-fermented, are naturally occurring, not carbonated, in both methods. MAWBY’s moderately-priced ($13$19) tank-produced sparkling wines include Detroit, Sandpiper, Us, Green, Redd, and the provocatively-named Sex, a best-selling brut rose. “They’re fresh, fruit-forward sparklers that are meant to be enjoyed now,” says Claire Lepine, MAWBY’s marketing manager. To mark MAWBY’s half-century milestone, the Laings hosted a series of anniversary dinners and other events in 2023 and, fittingly, produced a 50th Anniversary Cuveé, a brut blanc de blanc sparkling wine made from Leelanau Peninsula-grown chardonnay and riesling grapes. It’s finished with a dosage of 20-year-old,

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MAWBY VINEYARDS AND WINERY

A N C H O R S AWAY

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Tasting Room

A N C H O R S AWAY

Below: The winery produces more than 25,000 cases annually and has a portfolio of more than 20 beverages.

French oak-aged grape spirits, or brandy. The limited, multi-vintage anniversary blend “is basically made from our most popular sparkling wine, Blanc, but with a special dosage,” Peter Laing says, noting that the unique wine with just 1,000 cases produced will never be replicated. That’s because the dosage (added at the end to replace spent yeast) “was a small, five-gallon barrel of some grape spirits we found just sitting under the stairs,” he says. Actually, MAWBY’s wine-making team was aware of that lone barrel for some time, Laing says, and determined that the anniversary year would be the right time to use it. “People love it,” he says of the anniversary sparkler, which tastes of caramel apples, brioche, and delicate fruit, and is described as rich and lively on the palate, with an elegant finish. The 50th Anniversary Cuveé, priced at $35, pairs well with poached scallops, fried chicken, and wild mushroom pasta, and has been popular with MAWBY Fizz Club members, affectionately known as “Bubbleheads,” Michael Laing says. It’s also a hit in the winery’s tasting room, which offers beautiful views of the vineyards and is open year-round (it’s closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays during the

PLAN IT! Above: The MAWBY tasting room and outdoor deck overlook the rolling Suttons Bay-area vineyards.

“We’re sort of between (the wines of) Champagne and the northern coastal areas of California in terms of climate and varietal expression. We’re not as lean as Champagne and not as fat as California.” – Larry Mawby, Founder

MAWBY mawby.wine

winter season, through April 30). Well worth a trip north, MAWBY Vineyards and Winery is situated in the rolling, coastal dunes of the Leelanau Peninsula, near Lake Michigan and between Traverse City and Suttons Bay — both popular destinations for food and wine buffs. It’s among more than three dozen wineries in the region, which includes the adjacent Old Mission Peninsula. For those wondering what sets Michigan sparkling wines apart, Larry Mawby explains: “We’re sort of between (the wines of) Champagne and the northern coastal areas of California in terms of climate and varietal expression. We’re not as lean as Champagne and not as fat as California.” That means northern Michigan sparklers aren’t quite as crisp or tart as Champagne, he says, “but that doesn’t mean MICHIGAN BLUE | WINTER 2024

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A N C H O R S AWAY

Tasting Room

50TH ANNIVERSARY CUVEÉ Pair with: Roasted chestnuts, poached scallops Made from Leelanau Peninsulagrown chardonnay and riesling grapes, this $35 multi-vintage blend is elegantly finished with a grape brandy dosage aged in French oak barrels. With flavors of caramel apples, brioche, and delicate fruit, it’s lively on the palate, with a rich flavor from the cognac-like dosage.

Above: The awardwinning winery prides itself on producing only sparkling wines (which are costly and time-consuming to prepare), ciders, and canned spritzers. Top right: Guests and staff helped to celebrate the 50th anniversary of MAWBY during a series of special events.

C E L E B R AT E W I T H M AW BY

Any time of year is the perfect season to break out the MAWBY bubblies, according to Peter and Michael Laing, who say there’s no need to serve pricey French or California champagnes when Michigan’s MAWBY Vineyards and Winery offers high-quality, affordable sparkling wines so close to home. Here are their pairing suggestions for five popular MAWBY sparkling wines: US Pair with: Sparkling cocktails, appetizers Touted as an affordable alternative to pricier champagnes, Us is a blend of pinot noir, chardonnay, and chambourcin wine grapes. It’s a brut classic with a soft finish and pear and apricot aromas. At $17, it’s among MAWBY’s moderately priced sparklers that are naturally fermented twice in stainless steel tanks in the closed tank, or cuve close, method.

Stylish and refined, the $27 Blanc de Blanc is made from Leelanau Peninsula chardonnay, pinot gris, and riesling grapes, and features aromas of baked apples and zesty citrus fruits, layered with yeast flavors. GRACE Pair with: Smoked salmon, bouillabaisse This pretty, $29 pale brut rose is made from Leelanau Peninsula pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinot gris grapes, with a touch of regent grapes added for color and aroma. Expect ripe pinot and berry-cherry fruit flavors, with a yeasty bouquet. The finish is clean and crisp. TALISMON Pair with: Turkey dinner Featuring a solera of reserve wines dating back to 1993, this is a complex $39 Blanc de Blanc produced from estate-grown pinot noir, chardonnay, vignoles, and pinot gris grapes, supported by subtle oak and crisp acidity. Finished with a brut dosage, it has baked pear fruit aromas, with a toasty brioche accent and a fine, lingering finish. — SRP

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MAWBY VINEYARDS AND WINERY

they’re sweet!” He adds they’re typically not as high in alcohol as many California sparkling wines. “Alcohol provides body and roundness, or fatness. California has fatness with its slightly higher alcohol (content),” Mawby says. However, the difference between the alcohol levels is just .5 to 1 percent, he explains. “It’s not a huge difference, but enough to make significant perception and flavor differences.” Considering MAWBY’s success, why haven’t more Michigan wineries gone the bubbly route? “It’s difficult,” Mawby says, since sparkling wine is a small segment — only 5 or 6 percent — of the wine market. Plus, “You have to basically make wine and then make it again (double fermentation). It’s time-consuming and costly.” At 73, the Michigan State University English major, whose parents and grandparents were fruit farmers, reflects on his wine-making career: “I’m gratified that consumers have appreciated what we’re doing enough that we’re still going,” he says. “When I started, I just wanted to see if we could do it.”

BLANC Pair with: Shrimp cocktail, cheese plates

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Glazes and Glimmers Treacherous winter conditions don’t stop this photographer

few days before Christmas in 2022, a winter storm rolled over West Michigan. Some areas received more than 20 inches of snow and temperatures dipped into the teens. Combined with sustained winds of around 45 mph, this led to blizzard conditions. I stayed home throughout the storm but was anxious to get outdoors to capture its aftermath. I traveled to a few places close to home, but I really wanted to get out to Lake Michigan to see what it had to offer. I decided to head to Holland State Park to take advantage of the rocky shoreline around the harbor. Lake Michigan hadn’t started to freeze yet, but the entire shore was covered in a thick glaze of ice. The contrast of the lake’s dark waters with the 96

Text and photo by Wes Kitten stone-like white ice made for an intimidating and beautiful landscape. I carefully made my way over a floor of solid ice to the north side of Holland Harbor, directly adjacent to Big Red. The steps made for an especially treacherous area, and I resorted to crawling. Along the shore, I immediately noticed how complex the textures of the frozen shore appeared, so I started shooting. Some gulls in the area caught my eye and I was able to capture some interesting images, including a bird doing its thing despite the harsh conditions. A native of San Antonio, Texas, Wes Kitten now lives in Grand Rapids. In the short time that he’s lived in the state, he has fallen in love with what Michigan has to offer. He can often be found photographing real

estate around West Michigan, traveling as a photo ambassador for the state parks, or producing food and beverage photography for a variety of businesses. View his fine art landscapes of Michigan at wtkphotography. com or on Instagram at @wtkphoto. Also check out his food and beverage photography at thebeerhaul.com. P.S. Holland State Park is at 2215 Ottawa Beach Rd., Holland. It’s best known for sugar-sand beaches, beautiful sunsets, and views of the aforementioned iconic “Big Red” lighthouse. As beautiful as it is in the summer, it’s worth a visit during winter, and it’s not far from downtown Holland. The state park consists of both Lake Macatawa and Lake Michigan on the northern side of the channel connecting the two.

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