Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda

Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda Alan Goodall

Dedication This book is dedicated to the Rwandan people, especially the children.

Despite all their suffering and many hardships, it is thanks to them that the world can still enjoy breathtaking scenery and unique habitats in the Virunga Volcanoes region. There, on the Safari of a lifetime, they can visit the rare mountain gorillas in a protected “Ark of the forest.�

Introduction This photo essay is about the rare mountain gorillas found in the Rwandan section of the Virunga volcanoes in Central Africa - the Volcanoes National Park. It is set in a context of personal experiences during the past forty years, full of happiness, joy, success, and fun - as well as dark times of tragedy, sadness and despair. The story of the gorillas is entwined with that of their forest habitat and the scientific researchers who studied them, but, most of all with the people of Rwanda.

Alan Goodall first went to study these gorillas for his doctoral research project in 1970 - with Dian Fossey who had started her work three years earlier. Now, through his eyes and lens, and with his wife Margaret and daughters Fiona and Marisa, we see some of the beautiful landscapes in Rwanda - especially the impressive volcanoes region and their unique forests. His story takes us into the daily lives of gorillas and their foraging migrations, feeding habits and social structure - all in close up detail. We learn how to recognise individual animals and watch them in intimate moments as though we are members of their own family groups - from the birth of infants to the death of individuals.

(Satellite image courtesy of Satellite Imaging Corporation)

Map courtesy of www.worldatlas.com

We meet Dian Fossey and see the ‘Camp Moshi’ she set up in 1967 with the help of Alyette de Munck - which was later to become known as Karisoke Research Centre. This is where, during the night of 26 December 1985, Dian was brutally murdered. We explore the very crime scene itself and the death of one of those convicted of her murder - all of which poses many unanswered questions. Dian’s closest friend was Rosamund Carr, and we see Ros through several periods in her own remarkable life in Rwanda - and the huge legacy she herself has left at her Imbabazi orphanage.

Karsioke could not have existed nor been successful without the hard work of many Rwandan staff - as gorilla trackers, anti-poaching patrols, camp workers and porters. These ‘heroes of conservation’ are seen at work and play - and during the tragedies of their time as refugees in Congo during 1994. Some of the problems faced by the UN Force Commander at this time - Major General Romeo Dallaire are illustrated.

President Bill Clinton is seen on his visit to Rwanda in 2002 - to lay a wreath at a genocide site and meet some of the survivors. Aid also came from Great Britain - after the very first visit to Rwanda by Minister Baroness Linda Chalker in July 1994. For Alan Goodall, the gift of a Land Rover to Karisoke Research Centre from Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher and her government in 1988, was most welcome.

Finally, we look at some of the remarkable achievements made in Rwanda since the terrible genocide and war of 1994; how these have been achieved by President Paul Kagame and his government, and what hopes there are for the future of this tiny, beautiful country at the very heart of Africa - through better education and their “Vision 2020” 1

Rwanda

‘Pays des Milles Collines’ - Land of a Thousand Hills

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Rwandan landscapes At just 26,388 square kilometres - almost the same size as Belgium - Rwanda is one of the smallest countries in Africa. From a census of just over 8 million in 2002, rising to a 2010 estimate of 11 million, it has one of the highest population densities on the continent - at around 420 per square kilometre.

Completely landlocked, and literally at the very heart of Central Africa just south of the equator, it is bordered by Uganda in the north, Burundi in the south, Tanzania in the east and the Democratic Republic of the Congo in the west.

Known as ‘Pays des Milles Collines’ or ‘Land of a Thousand Hills’ Rwanda lies in the Albertine branch of the Great Rift valley and is at the divide between the watersheds of both the Nile and Congo river basins. In the large photo (page 4) rain falling on these southern slopes eventually flows into the Nile, while that on the opposite northern slopes flows into the Congo.

Most of the country was once covered in rain forest, which has since been cleared for agriculture, even the steepest of slopes and so erosion is a serious problem in some areas. Around 90 percent of Rwandans still work in the agricultural sector, mainly for subsistence crops of bananas, plantains, cassava, beans and potatoes. Women do much of the hard work in the fields and in taking produce for sale in local markets.

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Rich volcanic soils and high rainfall

The rich volcanic soil in this region grows many of Rwanda’s food crops - especially in the north west near the Virunga Volcanoes.

(Photos page 6) Many mountain streams and rivers originate in the hills and volcanoes in the west of Rwanda. During the heavy rains of the two rainy seasons there is often flash flooding and severe erosion - with houses swept away and loss of life.

(Photos this page)

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Cash crops Contrasting stories regarding cash crops. Rwandan tea (opposite) has been successful for many years, and their coffee has now become an international favourite. However, Pyrethrum (above) has had a mixed history - since 10,000 hectares of rare, tropical rain forest (some 40% of the national park) were cut down to grow this in 1968. The use of DDT as a pesticide was controversial at this time, while Pyrethrum was a natural alternative with no side effects - and was broken down in the soil. So this was a project proposed by the European Economic Community (EEC), supposedly to grow Pyrethrum for export and thereby earn foreign currencies. Local people, who were desperate for land, were delighted and supportive. However, there were many cultivation problems, drying and storage problems - and no local extraction facilities. Also, the creation of a synthetic pyrethrin, in western laboratories soon after this, caused a crash in crop prices. Unfortunately, deforestation had a detrimental effect on local rainfall, and the rivers flowing out of the park subsequently had a reduced flow in the two dry seasons. Sometimes none flowed at all - causing irrigation problems for crops.

Here above, (in March 1971) we are going down from Karisoke to Dian’s Combi parked at Bisate - the end of the road. The previous park boundary is the line of trees up to the top of the hill, upper left.

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Virunga volcanoes This is a chain of eight volcanoes - some of which straddle the borders of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Six of the chain are classed as dormant - while two in DRC are still active. This photo was taken looking S.E. from Rwindi in what is now Parc National des Virungas in DRC. It shows (left to right) Muhabura 4,127m, Gahinga 3,474m, Sabinio (Sabyinyo) 3,645m, then a large ‘saddle area’ before Bisoke (Visoke) 3,711m and Karisimbi 4,507m. Photos of the other three volcanoes can be seen on later pages.

Muhabura, Gahinga and Sabinio at sunset from Rwindi - DRC

Active volcanoes

Active and dormant volcanoes The image (above right) shows the location of the two active volcanoes, in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, at the western end of the Virunga chain.

Nyiragongo 3,470m and Nyamuragira 3,058m.

These lie just north of the town Goma, which is on the banks of Lake Kivu, and adjoins Gisenyi on the Rwandan side of the border. Both volcanoes have erupted several times in recent decades and caused great destruction and loss of life, with lava flows passing right through the centre of Goma, before flowing into the lake. Earlier eruptions had crossed the main road near Sake.

(Satellite image courtesy of www.satimagingcorp.com) The page opposite right shows the very different, and luxuriant vegetation found on the six dormant volcanoes.

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Zone of Hagenia and Hypericum trees This light, open, and rare sub-type of montane rain forest can be found on the slopes of most of the dormant volcanoes.

The huge branches of old Hagenia trees are covered with moss, lichens and tiny ferns. They have a rich understory with many species of herbs and vines - food for large herbivores such as elephants, buffaloes, antelopes and mountain gorilla.

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Saddle areas and steep ravines The so-called ‘Saddle areas’ - dips in the terrain which lie between the volcanic cones - have large expanses of tangled but open herbs. These grow in such abundance that they can easily hide buffaloes and even elephant! (opposite page left) Another animal which is abundant here is the tree hyrax (Dendrohyrax arboreus) (lower left) and surprisingly, they are close relatives of the elephant. Tree hyrax are mainly nocturnal, and the males make territorial calls during the night which sound like football rattles - getting louder and louder. These shrieks become really intense - as males across the forest try to outdo each other, often for hours on end.

This is most impressive, even alarming if you do not know what sort of animal is making these calls. It also makes sleeping in the forest difficult - until you get used to them!

Other mammals include Bushbuck (Bongo) (Centre top), the black fronted duiker (Cephalophus nigrifrons) (centre) and sun squirrels. (Heliosciurus) The undergrowth gives shelter to ground birds such as the handsome francolin (Francolinus nobilis) (bottom right) while many species of brightly coloured sunbirds feed on the flower spikes of the giant lobelias. (top right) These animals also join many other species in exploiting vegetation in the lower regions of the numerous, steep ravines around each volcanic cone.

However, I also found dung traces of buffaloes and even elephants, on the crater rim of Mount Bisoke - at 3,711m.

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Tree heaths and giant senecio’s at 3,600m on Karisimbi - with Mikeno behind in the mist

Mount Sabinio (Sabyinyo) or ‘Old man’s teeth’ at 3,645m - Mountain Gorillas ‘discovered’ here in 1902

Grassy meadow at 3,000m, surrounded by Hagenia trees - with Mount Bisoke behind

Giant lobelias and crater lake on Bisoke at 3,711m- often mist covered and unseen, even from this rim.

Mount Karisimbi - 4,507m

Mount Karisimbi At 4,507m Mount Karisimbi is the highest of the Virunga volcanoes chain.

In early morning the upper slopes are often covered with hail and snow after precipitation during the cold nights. (photo opposite) This is soon melted by the sun and does not last long.

On other days, as the slopes warm up, they create saucer-like (lenticular) cloud formations.

In the local language, Kinyarwanda, Karisimbi means ‘little white shell’ (left) whilst ‘Ibirunga’ means mountains.

There are many grassy meadows in the saddle areas above, where, before the park was created, the local people would graze their cows - or take them into DRC via the main trails they made through the forest.

The summit of Karisimbi now hosts an antenna pylon - to distribute the new ICT infrastructure across Rwanda as part of “Vision 2020”

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Mount Mikeno 4,437m - Hagenia trees covered in hanging Usnea lichens

Mount Mikeno - from slopes of Bisoke with saddle area below and active volcano Nyiragongo behind

Clouds and mist on Mount Mikeno As on Karisimbi, early morning cloud formations on Mount Mikeno are also spectacular lenticular forms - which become domed shaped as the warm air rises from the bare, rocky upper slopes. (opposite) This is all that remains of the volcanic plug of this ancient volcano.

In the evenings the mist creates ghostly scenes with the bare branches. (above) Often, like a cloudy tsunami, thick mist rolls with great speed across the forest - and envelops everything in an eerie atmosphere. (Left) Usually this is followed by the deafening sound of torrential, tropical rain. Time to don waterproofs quickly!

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The desecrated grave of American pioneer Carl Akeley at Kabara meaadow in DRC In December of 1979 I travelled west from Karisoke Research Centre on Mount Bisoke, and into the Congo side of the park to an area known as Kabara meadow. I knew that Carl Akeley had been buried there by his wife Mary in 1926 when he died suddenly on an expedition here - “to the land of his dreams.” Tragically, I found his headstone broken and the grave had been desecrated.

I informed the American Embassy - who showed no interest or understanding at that time. As a result of Akeley’s changed view of mountain gorillas, this area was created a National Park in 1925 by the Belgian King Albert. All subsequent studies of mountain gorillas were made possible as a result of Akeley’s vision. We have much to thank him for - and his family deserve better.

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<> The cabins of Karisoke Research Centre - viewed from the upper slopes of Mount Bisoke

Karisoke camp at 3,000m - beneath slopes of Mount Bisoke

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Dian Fossey & Karisoke Research Centre In 1967 Dr Louis Leakey promoted a research programme to study the rare mountain gorillas of this region. Funded by National Geographic it was to follow on from the pioneering study of American George Schaller in 1959. Dian Fossey persuaded Leakey that she was the one to do this study and, like Schaller, she began at Kabara where Akeley had died forty years earlier. However, shortly after the Congo erupted into civil war she moved across the border into the safety of Rwanda. There, with the help of a remarkable Belgian woman Alyette de Munck, she set up camp on the banks of the tiny river Kazi. (one of the many sources of the Nile). When I arrived in July 1970 Dian called it “Camp Moshi” - from the Swahili word for ‘smoke’ coming from the central camp fire. (photo left) Later, when applying for research funds, she changed the name to ‘Karisoke Research Centre.’ In the photos (this page top left to right) Dian leaving camp on 13 August 1970 for Cambridge University, UK; her blue monkey Kima and dog Cindy; Dian looking glamorous at Gisenyi for a photo shoot with Bob Campbell of National Geographic; saying goodbye to tracker Munya.

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Karisoke Research Centre The two upper photos show the cabin Alyette de Munck and Dian built for me in 1970. Below are views of the outside and bedroom of Dianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own, original cabin built in 1968.

Alyette chose this site for the camp because of the water supply from the river Kazi - here in low water and in spate. (opposite) Footprints of Elephants who came to water here can clearly be seen! Dian also set up a weather station.

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The crime scene of Dian’s Fossey’s brutal murder Sometime during the night of 26 December 1985 Dian Fossey was brutally murdered in her ‘new’ large cabin - which she herself had called “The Mausoleum.” This cabin was isolated at the extreme western edge of the camp area.

The subsequent police investigation, and trial in Dec. 1986, convicted Rwandan camp worker, Emmanuel Rwelekana, and American student Wayne McGuire of Dian’s murder. McGuire had been allowed to leave Rwanda before the trial. But, Rwelekana, who was quite a gentle man in my experience, was claimed to have hanged himself in his prison cell in Gikongo. It is extremely unlikely either had been involved.

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I later studied in detail all the Rwandan police photos and reports (some are seen here alongside photos I took after the cabin was re-opened). Even allowing for any struggle which may have taken place it appears to me that the crime scene had been altered - after the event. In the photo taken at the crime scene, the drawers of the bedside cabinet had actually been taken out and put aside. But, as I later found, the sides of the drawers and inner runners were so covered in thick blood that we had to remove them for cleaning. So, they must have been in place inside the cabinet when Dian was killed.

The location of this blood can be still be seen on the lower left drawer front (my photo taken in 1987) The formica top of the cabinet also had very deep, angled cuts from panga blows presumably where the assailant missed Dian’s head.

Other, strange anomalies The police concluded that Dian’s murderer(s) had gained access to her bedroom (while she was asleep) by cutting out a section of the very flimsy corrugated iron sheet - seen in their crime scene photo above. This hole and the window were later patched up. (photo top centre) The Police reported that they found a small, bullet hole in the wall near the window. They removed two pistols from Dian’s cabin (which were her own) - and mistakenly labelled them in their photo taken on a chair as C.I.A. I have been told that actually the maker mark is CIA! It has been claimed that Dian was trying to load one of her pistols - but, with the wrong size ammunition.

The centre photo shows the deep panga cuts in the very hard formica surface - and so must have been made with considerable force. The top was still spattered with Dian’s blood - which perhaps dripped from the panga. The angle of the cuts suggest that she was still lying on the bed when her assailant struck.

Also disturbing are the photos taken by the Rwandan police to ‘prove’ that Rwelekana hung himself in his prison cell. I visited this cell and confirmed to myself that in order to do this - in such a low cell - he would have to have been on his knees. This can be gauged in their own photos by comparing the heights of his head and the wall and door heights from the photo taken outside his cell.

It would seem impossible for him to have taken his own life in this way. Others reported that he had been severely beaten. These events all took place under the previous government in Rwanda.

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Karisoke cemetery Dian was buried in the gorilla cemetery she had created at Karisoke. At first, like them, she had a simple, hand written name plate. (above) However, when I was Director of Karisoke (1987 - 1989) the President of the Digit Fund, Ruth Keesling, brought a newly inscribed, metal plaque for Dian’s grave.

NO ONE LOVED GORILLAS MORE REST IN PEACE, DEAR FRIEND ETERNALLY PROTECTED IN THIS SACRED GROUND FOR YOU ARE HOME WHERE YOU BELONG Unfortunately, they had somehow ‘Italianised’ the Rwandan name “Nyiramacyibili” into “NYIRAMACHABELLI” The myth had grown up that Nyiramacyibili was a Rwandan name given to Dian by locals - meaning ‘a woman who lives alone on the mountain.’ However, the Karisoke staff told me that in Kinyarwanda this actually means ‘a small woman who moves quickly’ - this pictures Alyette de Munck rather than Dian. They suggested that the mixed up name myth was created, probably by her head porter - in an attempt to flatter Dian herself.

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Dian’s closest friend - the remarkable Ros Carr It was Ros Carr who helped Dian Fossey start her research in Rwanda, after Dian had to leave the Congo in July 1967.

Crucially, Ros introduced Dian to her neighbour, a Belgian woman - Alyette de Munck. Alyette was an experienced field worker who had already been on several expeditions in the Congo, first to study the active volcanoes with French volcanologist Haroun Tazieff, and later to photograph the Bambuti Pygmies in the Ituri forests of North Kivu.

Ros herself first came to the Congo and Rwanda in 1949 with her husband Kenneth. She later lived at her plantation in Mugongo , north of Gisenyi, in the beautiful, ivy covered bungalow seen here in her magnificent garden. Ros had created a successful flower growing business and her exotic blooms went on weekly flights for sale in Brussels. Her eventful life is beautifully described in her autobiography “Land of a Thousand Hills,’ co-written with her niece Ann Howard Halsey.

In 1988 Ros again met my wife Margaret and our elder daughter Fiona - who she had first seen as a four month old baby in 1970. Then Ros had said to us in alarm “You are not taking that beautiful baby to live up in the volcanoes - are you?” Now she could see a grown up, eighteen year old Fiona, and meet our younger daughter Marisa - who took a shine to Ros’s dogs. (Right) 40

Ros Carr - after the Genocide and war in 1994 Ros had to leave Rwanda during the war of April - July 1994; but she soon returned, and I met her at Kigali airport on the 14 August. I was leaving on a military flight, a Galaxy C-5, and she was arriving on one of the first cargo relief flights allowed back after the war ended. Although she never had children of her own, at 82 years of age, Ros started an orphanage, which she named ‘Imbabazi z’i Mugongo’ - for the many children who had lost parents in the war and genocide. In Kiyarwanda, Imbabazi means ‘a place where you will receive all the love and care a mother can give’ - and Ros set to work to ensure that this became a new reality for these orphans. But, in 1998, because of renewed fighting around Mugongo, they had to leave for Gisenyi. The children were housed in a school building and Ros was offered this house, across the road from Lac Kivu, by the Bralirwa brewery. It had once been the home of Sergio Bottazzi - and I had stayed there in December 1979.

I visited Ros again in 2002 - on her 90th birthday - which she celebrated with family and friends who had come from all over the world. She was pleased to show me her new ‘family’ of orphans, now playing happily in her garden. I joined her life long worker, and now business partner, Sembagare - for a birthday photo with Ros. In 2005 Ros was able to return to her home in Mugongo - and take the Imbabazi orphanage to a new building where it still flourishes. Sadly, she died four years later - but not before leaving a wonderful legacy in Rwanda.

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Return to Karisoke In 1987 I was appointed by the Digit Fund as the first Director of Karisoke since Dianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s death. I was determined to ensure it had a modern management structure and research outlook which was relevant to Rwandan needs both locally and nationally. However, my first task was to clean up my cabin the one built for me in 1970 by Alyette and Dian. The previous occupant had left it in a complete mess - as can be seen in the photo top left. This was ironic, because in his book â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Woman in the Mistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Farley Mowat had fabricated some story that I had done the same in my own early days. I had actually left the camp and cabins in excellent order. But, now, in 1987, we had to strip everything off the very shelves I made in 1970 then Kanyarugano and Gabriel washed it all down and we restored it to a fit state to live in.

I installed a small office on the bedroom side - with one of the first portable laptops (a Zenith) which had been given to me by Judge Kenton Musgrave after I made a presentation to the Digit Fund in Denver. He also gave me a Honda generator, and so - to the amazement of the men - I installed fluorescent lights in their cabin and mine!

I cleaned up the fireplace area, set up maps and planners and made a desk outside which had fabulous views to Karisimbi.

We were ready to go!

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Sponsored clothing I wrote to the British experts in outdoor clothing - Barbour - and explained our clothing problems. Generously, they immediately sent everything we needed from durable waterproof jackets, warm gilets to wellingtons and socks! They also agreed to my colour scheme of green for the field staff and blue for camp staff. We were all delighted, and Barbour used the photo I sent in an advertising campaign which was seen world-wide. After a visit by the German Ambassador to Rwanda he kindly gave us shirts and shoes - and so the men were at last well clothed for work at 3,000m.

In 1989 USAID (United States Agency for International Development), approved my own application for funding to Karisokeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work on Biodiversity, with a grant of almost $400,000 to the Digit Fundâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finances.

Sadly, many of the men pictured here, and on other pages, have since died or been killed. They still live forever in our hearts and minds - in so many happy memories - and we are eternally grateful to them for their warm friendship.

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Vatiri Andre Nemeye Alphonse

Work - and fun at Karisoke I changed the system (introduced by Dian years earlier) of three weeks work and three of rest (down with their families) to two weeks on and two off. This was far easier for all - though the men needed convincing that they would not get less pay! I appointed Nemeye Alphonse (Top left) as Head Tracker and Vatiri Andre as Head of anti-poaching and gave them a responsibility allowance above their pay.

We also had some fun times - though not the new tracker in the photo (top centre) who hid his face in Antoine’s lap when the gorilla named Cantsbee sat on him! In the middle photo Nemeye appears to be sharing the old joke about ‘the Gorilla, Chimp and Orang utan’ - with the silverback male Pablo. Actually, as can be seen in the lower photo, he is protecting my rucksac, as Pablo often grabbed the straps and then ran off - dragging the owner with him! Dian had never allowed Rwandan staff to be close to gorillas -as she believed gorillas would then be habituated to poachers.

When some well meaning people sent rather colourful clothes for the anti-poaching patrol, Vatiri joked that if he wore them on patrol in the forest then the poachers would be so afraid they would run away and not come back!

Several of the men were great musicians at our parties especially Rukera who was versatile on strings and drums.

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Rukera Alias

Porters and Anti-poaching staff As well as the trackers and camp staff we needed other support - especially from the porters who came up twice a week with food supplies and mail. All was carried on their heads, even metal filing cabinets and the heavy generator donated from America, which, to my amazement, arrived at camp after several international flights - full of petrol!

The porter had not spilled a drop.

Vatiri, in his favourite hat. He led the anti-poaching patrols which were joined by park guards. Here they caught a poacher literally â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;red handedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 45

Parties, pay days - and later tragedies Since the staff were isolated from their families I was determined they should celebrate whenever possible.

They were natural and fabulous dancers - especially to the drum playing of Rukera, Kana and Fidele Uwimana. However, at the end of two weeks work their favourite day was pay day, and, after receiving their money they often ran down the mountain.

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In complete contrast - â&#x20AC;&#x153;Men in Pinkâ&#x20AC;?

In 1991 - before the actual Genocide of 1994 - some people were shot and killed, by a Park Guard, inside the park where they should not have been. I heard that Karisoke staff actually tried to prevent these crimes, but, at a trial in 1998, these five were convicted of being involved - and sentenced to life in prison. I visited them on 5 July 2001. They are (L- R ) Ndibishe, Nemeye, Kana, Rukera and Munyanshoza. Since this photo was taken Ndibishe and Rukera have died in prison - the other three remain there.

Breathtaking scenery to work in Each morning we set out with our trackers along the well worn paths away from camp. Most often we would head west, out under the huge, old Hagenia trees and then through the open, boggy area - which gave superb views of Mikeno ahead and Karisimbi to our left.

Our main research of course focussed on the rare, eastern mountain gorilla (Gorilla gorilla beringei). They were first found here in 1902 by Captain Friedrich Robert von Beringe - who shot two of them on the slopes of Sabinio! They were later identified, by Professor Paul Matschie in Berlin, as being a different sub species from the more common western lowland gorilla (Gorilla gorilla gorilla) seen in zoos around the world. So, Matschie named them‘beringei’ after their discoverer. The total number of mountain gorillas is only some 600 - 700 at most, and the Virunga population accounts for over half. These are also the longest studied, from George Schaller’s work in 1959 to that by Dian and other research students at Karisoke since 1967. The Karisoke population is also rare, in providing the longest recorded study of groups of known, individual primates and their family histories. This has been achieved by the ‘habituation’ of so-called wild gorilla, - first shown to be possible by George Schaller in 1959. He also identified individuals by their different ‘nose-prints’.

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(see photos opposite) Five adult females are on the left with five adult males on the right hand side.

Effie

Beetsme

Titus

Puck

Pantsy

Pandora

Flossie

Cantsbee

Pablo

Ziz

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Gorilla social structure and family life Only some adult, silverback males (like Siri above) leave their family group and live alone. Females and their young live in a family group of between three and thirty plus - which is led by the dominant silverback male. However, females may sometimes change groups. Lone males try to attract females to join them!

Unlike the other apes gorillas walk on the clenched knuckles of their hands.(bottom right)

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Titus - adult, silverback male

Peanuts, adult silverback male - showing an old wound to his right eye.

Papoose - adult female

Four sub-adults, but, which one is the only female here?

Kuby is - second from right

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Gorilla mothers and their infants Gorilla females reach sexual maturity at about eight years of age - before they give birth to their first infant as Maggie here. (asleep left and above) Her own mother, Effie (opposite page,top left) was a gorilla ‘super mum’ - as this was her sixth infant. It was born just weeks before Maggie had her own first baby.

Infants stay with their mother and suckle for about three years.

As in humans, this inhibits the mother’s ovulation - and so they will only conceive about every three or four years. That is unless their infant dies - or is killed by an intruding adult male who is not the father.

Mothers hold their infants in their arms for about the first six months, then they are allowed to ride ‘jockey-style’- which must give them a super view as they travel through the forest.

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The impressive chest beat and hoot display All gorillas give chest beats, even infants - but, only the adult males add distinctive hooting to the display. This may be given within the family group - as by Ziz (page opposite and above left) or, more frequently, during inter group displays or fights (Titus above right) and when meeting another family group. (left) During such group interactions shrubs and small trees may be broken or uprooted - and infants could be killed. This is when lone males, or leaders of other groups, are trying to attract females to defect and join them. Some females do transfer at these times - perhaps because they then may rise in the hierarchy of their new group. However, if they have a young infant it could be killed, thereby allowing them to ovulate sooner and thus have the offspring of their new male leader.

The dominant male of the group they are in will try to stop them from leaving. So, such group interactions are usually noisy, violent, and very exciting to observe - as the gorillas usually ignore watching researchers!

These displays and fights are socially driven - about gaining or protecting dominance, and, usually keeping or attracting females within a family group. They are not related to protecting range areas within the forest, or food supplies which grow in abundance.

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Battle scars and wounds Like most animals, gorillas will avoid actual fighting - by giving displays such as chest beats or various vocalisations.

Usually one individual will back down, but, if not, then the display can escalate into a fight. All gorillas will fight, even adult females, and this can result in a wide range of wounds from their sharp teeth, usually on the face, neck, back or hands when used to protect more vital areas.

Fights between adult males can be short, sharp - but ferocious affairs - with resulting severe wounds such as that to the eye of Beetsme (above left) and the hand of Titus (right). Here Titus seems to be trying to get my sympathy!

Soon after this Titus took more and more control of the group, eventually displacing Beetsme as dominant male.

To my knowledge Bill Weber is the only researcher who carries the typical scar of a gorilla bite. This was inflicted when he foolishly followed â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;wildâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; gorillas through a thick tunnel of vegetation - and met an adult male halfway!

Fighting skills - and dominance - are honed during the play fights of infants and sub adults (photos right)

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Young infants, like this two year old - often play alone climbing shrubs. They also join in play fights like the three year olds at right or the ten year old, sub adult males below.

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Daily migrations in search of food Each family gorilla group has an area of forest or â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;home range.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Within this range area they have to know where and when various food plants can be found, when they are in the best condition to eat, and, especially - how to get a healthy, mixed diet and minimise illnesses or worm infections.

Gorillas are good climbers - especially the younger ones

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Research group 5 - led by a silverback male known as Ziz - who is seen here looking for stragglers as they move through an open area of forest.

The other silverback - Pablo - can be seen sitting and waiting ahead.

Master of all he surveys - Ziz - with Mount Bisoke behind

Follow the leader?

Such knowledge of a range area and food supply forms the cultural heritage of each gorilla family group - and much of this probably resides with the dominant, silverback male.

He appears to decide when and where his group will travel in their daily migrations around their range area. He often leads from the front - but, I have seen times when a silverback was at the rear of the group and they changed direction to follow him when he reversed his tracks. Groups with several silverbacks may temporarily divide while feeding - but not far apart - and then rejoin later when they stop to rest. Group cohesion is usually maintained by each gorilla giving out various, distinctive vocalisations while they forage and feed.

Sometimes, as in these photos, the group moves quickly from one feeding area to another. This may be several kilometres away - and is often in a different vegetation type at lower or higher altitudes in another forest zone. Such movements happen especially when they are eating seasonal foods like bamboo shoots or various fruits. These migrations also allow areas to regenerate after being trampled over by the groups while foraging - especially in the two dry seasons.

I found that whilst a group may have a similar diet, individuals did vary in their own choices. Such individual differences are adaptive to changing environments or variations in local forest types. During gorilla evolution, as they occupied different forest habitats in new areas, this would be beneficial to them.

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Foraging and feeding skills Whilst they have impressive canine teeth - such as those of Titus below - gorillas are almost exclusively herbivores.

In the Virunga volcanoes they forage for and eat all or parts of over thirty different plant species. They show great skill and dexterity in choosing food items and preparing them to eat - using hands, teeth and lips in rapid, flowing motions.

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Titus has found a large supply of one of their main food items Galium (or Goosegrass). He carefully separates out and discards the dead shoots before rolling up the green ones and eating them.

Great hand, eye and teeth co-ordination Titus again showing even more skillful co-ordination as he peels, and discards, the bark from another favourite food wild Celery (Peucedanum linderi). The peeled stem is then eaten - just as we would eat a stick of celery! The pith of the roots is also often eaten.

An open wound can be seen on his wrist (Upper right) - from a recent fight with Beetsme.

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Thistles and bamboo shoots The virunga gorillas eat several species of thistles (Carduus) throughout the year. However, the new shoots of bamboo only start to appear on the lower slopes of Bisoke with the onset of the late rainy season in September. Then the gorillas move down into this zone and eat a lot of these protein rich shoots. They remove the hairy, outer bracts carefully and eat the inner, tender young shoots. They also eat other herbs with these - as a sort of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;mixed salad.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

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More unusual food items on the gorilla menu Sometimes the gorillas travel very quickly up to the higher zones of Giant Senecio. There they dig up roots, and, by pulling them between their teeth eat the outer cortex.

Strangely, and only during these times, the gorillas all make a singing like vocalisation! Other occasional food items are tiny ferns which grow in the moss on Hagenia branches - and a bracket fungus (below). The latter was highly prized and sometimes caused disputes and change of owner.

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Rare food items - especially safari ant larvae!

Here sub-adult female Maggie plunged her arm down into the safari ant nest and quickly gobbled up some of the larval grubs she had pulled out. But, then she had to run and brush her arms - as the bites of the soldier ants stung her! Papoose (right) eats some scale insects living in a stem, and below she eats a nutritious sedge. Nemeye surveys the damage caused in one hour by feeding gorillas to a Giant Senecio tree - which may have taken 200 years to grow! (Bottom right) This is a severe problem for the park - as gorillas are forced higher and higher by humans.

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Bitter bark and sap Individuals would sometimes spend a lot of time carefully splitting plants open, or tearing off the bark - in order to scrape and eat just the inner layer, or even sap, under the outer cortex. It is possible that some of these foods contained essential minerals or even medicines - perhaps against worms!

Infants learned their food items while in their motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s arms.

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Gorilla nests - and some strange habits!

All gorillas build a new, fresh nest each evening - except young infants who sleep with their mother. A wide range of vegetation is used for the nests - depending on where the gorillas end their foraging for the day. Sometimes the leafy tops of lobelias are snapped off and used as a nest base on the ground (as in the photo above right).

Usually, more care is taken to shape the nest and interlock elements - especially to stop the occupant from slipping down steep slopes during the night! As with the sub adult male (above left) and the two larger, nests of silverbacks (opposite, left). Younger gorillas often make small nests in the trees.

Here (right) Ziz is settling down at dusk - and seems to be contemplating his day!

Gorillas in the Virungas appear to have rather dirty habits - for they defaecate in their nests at night and then sleep on their dung! This is quite different from the more â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;hygienicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; habits I found in the Congo gorillas - which lived at lower, warmer altitudes. So, I concluded that the Virunga gorillas used their horse-like dung as a warm insulation on cold nights! Since they are vegetarians, and eat only a little fruit, their dung does not stick to their hair and so is unlikely to provide a focus for infections. Do you have a better theory? Fresh white eggs, laid by dung flies, can be seen on the dung in the lower nest.

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After all that eating - time to rest.

Typically gorillas rise from their night nests just after dawn and then forage and feed for several hours - eating many kilos of vegetation to fill up their large, pot bellies. Then they stop and rest, and sometimes individuals build a hasty day nest - or they just put their feet up or roll over wherever. It is possible that the more dominant females - and their infants - rest closest to the dominant silverback at these times. (photos below)

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Just like humans - Ziz yawns after a rest period Often during rest periods, gorillas will clean their hairy coats by grooming, doing this either for themselves - as Beetsme and Papoose are doing here, (below left) or they may push up to another gorilla and invite social grooming.

Mothers groom infants a lot, but, here below, an adult silverback â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Pabloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; - is grooming the back of a young infant.

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To sleep - perchance to dream. But, of what...?

At times the gorillas certainly did appear to be dreaming!

(Opposite page) Ziz mating with females in his group.

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Sneaky males Normally it is the dominant silverback male who mates with the females in his group when they become receptive. But, sometimes younger males may sneakily mate with such females at the edge of the group. This is dangerous - because the males seem incapable of not making their normal mating vocalisations at these delicate times!

(As Titus is through his pursed lips, above left) These noises alert a furious silverback leader who comes charging and screaming to end their escapades!

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It is little known that gorillas love skiing!

Some ski instructors tell their pupils to ski holding their arms out - like a gorilla. When my friend Ali Ross published his new book on skiing I just had to â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;askâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; the gorillas opinion on his methods! Some friends put captions to these photos - (top left) Beetsme showing me a poor hand position, whilst below he cannot face seeing dreaded moguls! In the other two photos Maggie takes a closer look - and then demonstrates pole planting below. Then she ran off with the book!

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The Goodall family at Karisoke Whilst Ros Car and many of our friends thought we were mad - Margaret and I brought four month old Fiona up to Karisoke. Dian thought it was a great idea as it would be healthier than at lower altitudes - and, she was right.

Despite the very primitive washing facilities we all thrived.

One day, when they were near Karisoke, the gorillas heard Fionaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cries and I could see that they were quite perplexed!

We had one funny episode when Kanyarugno left all the nappies at the side of the camp stream - (after talking to Margaret photo opposite page) When he returned later they had been washed away by a huge thunderstorm. Luckily, he recovered them all the next day - some miles downstream!

In 1988, when I was back at Karisoke as Director, Margaret brought Fiona and Marisa to visit. On a stopover in Paris they surprised car drivers whilst walking along with a stuffed gorilla - which looked quite realistic! An American company had made them for publicity purposes, and to sell.

However, the memories of Paris, and civilisation, were soon forgotten as they had to cross raging mountain streams whilst tracking the gorillas! But, it proved to be a unique and memorable adventure for them - which they treasure.

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My family and other gorillas In the photos on the opposite page - I love the changing expressions on the faces, of first Fiona, and then Marisa as Beetsme approaches them and then squeezes past! This was their first encounter with a huge silverback - so it was hardly surprising that they were apprehensive as he approached. But, as usual, he just ignored them and continued on his way. Not so the young adult who seemed to take an interest in Margaretâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Parisien perfume!

(Photos this page) Perhaps the most famous of our research families is Group 5. It is led by Ziz (who starred opposite Sigourney Weaver in Gorillas in the Mist) and, top right Pablo - who was always causing trouble. Here he seems to be thinking what he can do as he sits next to Margaret. I knew right away he was up to his rucksac stealing trick and had to warn her. Fortunately, and bravely, Margaret gently pushed his hand away before he could grab the strap. Amazingly they never reacted violently to such gentle actions from us, and seemed to accept this as part of their play - as they did from their normal family.

The infants loved to climb all over my daughters to play and they especially enjoyed being tickled (top left).

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Beware - infants at play!

The young infants surprised my daughters as to how playful - and rough, they could be!

One minute they would give a chest beat, then the next lie back in your lap to be tickled.

The photos of Marisa below were taken during her very first encounter with the gorillas, who, within two minutes climbed all over her to play and rough her up! Even sub adult Maggie joined in.

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Camp life at Karisoke Margaret and I enjoyed being back in the same cabin we had lived in eighteen years earlier. During the evenings Marisa was busy with her sketching and Fiona typed up some of my reports on the new laptop.

I was determined that while we carried out a wide range of new research at Karisoke, all the staff both expats and locals - should have some relaxed times.

We often dined together as here with (right to left) research students Pascale Sicotte, Kristine Smets, Stephane Dondeyne, vet Barclay Hastings and buffalo researcher Andrew Plumtre, then Fiona, Marisa and Margaret. Front left is Alton Byers who was head of the Ruhengeri project - and he was also a great guitar player. We are all in the dining area and lounge of Dianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s huge cabin - with her photos of gorillas on the walls.

The Rwandan staff also entertained us with their own stories - as told by Nemeye and Gabriel (centre left).

They liked to show us their traditional drumming skills. Kana and Rukera especially had a great sense of rhythm.

All luggage is carried up and down on the heads of the porters. The porter in the blue shirt behind Fiona (Rwampogazi) actually carried her up on his head, in her carry-cot when she was a baby, eighteen years earlier. We all thought it would now only be fair if she carried him!

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Vet work A vet centre was set up below in the nearby village of Kinigi funded and staffed by the Morris Animal Foundation. Vets came from several world zoos - and each was thrilled to work with gorillas in the field. But, how much we should intervene in wild populations is controversial. One day Peanuts stopped foraging and eating - and sat huddled while the rest of his group looked on (right). He was darted and given fluids by vet Susanne Abildgard.

Alas, he died that night and was carried down the mountain.

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Other research at Karisoke Stephane Dondeyne made pioneering studies of soil samples from the remarkable volcanic layers he exposed on the banks of the tiny camp stream - the Kazi.

Andrew Plumtre (above right) studied the buffalo population.

Lorna Anness is seen taking notes on the wounds of a sleeping Beetsme (below), while Pascale Sicotte (who studied mother infant relationships) is surrounded by Peanutâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s group.

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Poaching problems Antelopes often amputated their own legs as they struggled to get free from wire snares - and sometimes stepped on another trap (right). A young adult female gorilla Jozi (above) - died of her wrist wound - and this elephant, with an amputated trunk, died overnight. On 27 October 1970 I found six gorillas who had been stoned to death - in fields just outside the park at Cundura.

My report was later refuted by Dian Fossey, who said they could not have been stoned - since there were no stones in this area. However, had she actually been there she could have seen many stones, as in the photos taken when I collected the corpses - which showed bones broken by these stones.

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TV crews - and their helpful subjects!

Wildlife film crews were always excited - and amazed - to be able to record the daily lives of our research family groups. Here the BBC crew got more than they expected. (Top left) Cameraman Neil Rettig has a new Director at his shoulder. Then, top right adult blackback male Cantsbee gives a close up â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;piece to cameraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and then an audio level check for sound recordist Kim Hayes!

The most amazing of all was when Cantsbee approached the camera of Mike Herd and saw his own reflection in the lens.

To our surprise Cantsbee then waved his hand up and down around the back of the large camera - was he searching for the gorilla he could see - but not touch?

This family - group 5 - are the most filmed gorillas in the world and have appeared opposite Sigourney Weaver, Bryan Brown, Sir David Attenborough and other international stars.

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A welcome gift We also had severe transport problems, so I wrote to the top - to the Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, explaining what we were doing at Karisoke. She had just made her famous â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Green speechâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; of 1988 , so I also stressed the environmental work we were doing to try and help Rwanda. I later heard that this whole story was quickly passed around the UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office. Because, for within two weeks of my letter, I received approval for a top of the range Land Rover plus two years of spares - and shipping to East Africa!

The keys were presented to me in Leicester Square by the Minister for Overseas Development, Chris Patten (to whom I gave a toy gorilla for his daughter). Widely reported on TV and in the press it was great publicity for everyone. A few weeks later, with my friend Jon Martino, we drove the landrover some 3,000 kilometres from Dar es Salaam to Kigali on an epic Safari, crossing Lake Victoria on a ferry (above right, which later sank!) and through mountain roads, storms and floods.

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Tourism - now vital to Rwandaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economy

Gorilla tourism in Rwanda is safe and well organised - thanks to park guards and guides, and Rwandan military

Tourists can now photograph the gorillas and buy local crafts.

In my Doctoral thesis in 1974 I stressed that tourism would be essential in Rwanda - both to save the gorillas and to help the people who live on the borders of the park. Dian Fossey was vehemently against this, but, thanks to the dedicated, hard work of Jean Pierre von der Becke, Bill Weber, Amy Vedder, and Rwandan staff, gorilla tourism was started in 1979. It has come a long way since the first chaotic days (bottom right) and is now well organised and protected (top left)

A far cry from early days - as in 1979 Park Conservator Jean Pierre von der Beck tries to organise tourists who just turned up without any booking in those days.

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Rwanda’s darkest hours - war and Genocide in 1994 Rwanda was abandoned by the international community in it’s darkest hours of April 1994. The UN Force Commander (UNAMIR) was Canadian Major General Romeo Dallaire (above). He told me he sent numerous, urgent telex messages to UN headquarters in New York about what was happening - and asking advice and for more support. In reply his force was greatly reduced and their mandate restricted to observer status. His own account of this tragedy is movingly told in his book “Shake Hands with the Devil” In April 1994 fighting started at the Parliament building in Kigali (above with numerous bullet and shell holes). During shooting in the city, even the power of love and Guiness could not prevent these bullet holes in the sign at one of Kigali’s roundabouts.

There had been a great deal of looting by the fleeing government forces - such as here at the Kiyovu Hotel. (Centre right) On 7 August 1994 I travelled down to Akagera park area with UN soldiers. We found that every village had been abandoned - and normally busy streets and all houses were deserted (Centre left) Because of my local knowledge of the region, General Dallaire took me in his helicopter on 13 August 1994 to visit the British Troops in Ruhengeri. They were setting up a field hospital for the hundreds of thousands refugees who were now flooding back into Rwanda from Goma in the Congo after the war had ended.

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At this meeting on 26 July 1994 in Byumba the British Government,via Minister for Overseas Development, Linda Chalker, was the first to recognise the new government in Rwanda - led by the Rwandan Patriotic Front. I took the only photo of this historic event

Genocide - even in schools and churches In the happy times of 1988, Karisoke students and I attended the marriage of Antoine BANYANGANDOLA here above at the Roman Catholic Cathedral in Ruhengeri. But, during the terrors of the Genocide of April - July 1994, even people who took refuge here, and in the school buildings of Murambi (Centre) were slaughtered. Murambi is now preserved as a permanent exhibition of these terrible events - with the bodies of many who were killed still lying in their death throes, sometimes with arms around each other or children wearing their ragged clothes.( left) Only two people survived at Murambi, and they now work as visitor guides. While taking these photos I was overcome by uncontrollable sobbing and weeping - and questions of why? There are hundreds of thousands of tragic stories here - of lives lost and others ruined.

We need to understand how this was allowed to happen - both by internal and external forces - and avoid it recurring anywhere in future.

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The first refugees return to Rwanda Between April and July 1994, over two million Rwandans fled the fighting to seek refuge in neighbouring Burundi, Uganda and Congo. Here, near the end of July 1994, I took this photo (above) of some of the first refugees returning to Kigali along Boulevard de lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OUA. Normally this is one of the busiest roads in Kigali - yet here not a single vehicle can be seen - just a handful of returnees who have walked from Goma carrying a few possessions.

Some returnees headed home into the hilly interior of Rwanda (right and above right) In the following weeks and months this turned into a moving flood of humanity - which overwhelmed aid agencies.

Tragically, many of the refugees in the Congo were forced even deeper into the interior - where many perished.

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Refugees returning from DRC to Rwanda through the forest of Parc des Volcans I had travelled to Rwanda, via Uganda, on an aid flight from UK on 24 July 1994 - just after the war ended. I wanted to know what had happened to the Karisoke staff and their families. I suspected, and hoped, that they had fled through the park rather than via dangerous roads through Gisenyi and Goma.

General Dallaire gave me the help of Major Charlie Braune and, with permission from RPF, on 30 July we travelled to Ruhengeri by road and then up to Karisoke on foot - where we spent the night. It was deserted and ransacked, so the next day I decided to go through the forest into Congo (top left, although we did not have permits to do so). On the way we met refugees returning with children and livestock.

The terrible strain showed clearly on their faces - yet, one old gentleman was still polite enough to tip his hat in a friendly greeting. After all he must have suffered, I felt humbled. They still had many miles to walk through the forest and on down to Kinigi and Ruhengeri at the south east of the park.

We carried on through the park and into the Congo side. Fortunately, we found no sign of what we were dreading - mines - nor of any problems for the gorillas, who actually survived this period without loss.

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I found the Karisoke staff at Bukima in the Congo The Karisoke staff had wisely fled through the park with their families. On emerging from the forest on the Congo side, (31 July 1994) the first person I saw was Ndaruhebeye - and he took me to their camp. They were as amazed and delighted to see me as I was to find them, and I was warmly greeted by everyone. They were the lucky ones, for although a very primitive camp, they had shelter and fresh water - given daily by the Congolese warden, from the supply of the large, tourist gite.

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Families in exile Major Charlie Braune took this photo of me with all the Karisoke staff and their many children (left). Each family had to share tiny plastic shelters, with only a small fire at 3,000m altitude - made with wood from the forest! Later, I learned that Gabriel and his family (below left) had been driven deeper into the Congo and he died there. It is impossible for me to understand how this could have happened to the gentle and friendly man that I knew at Karisoke.

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President Bill Clinton and Rwanda In his autobiography Bill Clinton writes “The failure to stop Rwanda’s tragedies became one of the greatest regrets of my presidency” Subsequently, during his second term in office, and again later, he visited Rwanda - here in September 2002 - to lay a wreath at the Kigali Genocide memorial site. He was welcomed and mobbed with friendly hand shakes wherever he went. President Clinton was clearly moved by this visit to the genocide site - especially when laying the wreath and signing the visitors book.

Accompanied on this visit by the film star Kevin Spacey he had meetings with Rwanda President Paul Kagame and his wife Jeannette, together with some of Rwanda’s ministers. (photos opposite page) President Clinton visiting a new village of Unity and Reconciliation with head of project, Aloysie Inyumba and listening to the stories of genocide survivors. He discussed in detail how his foundation could help with the rebuilding programme, especially to combat the growing threat from HIV/AIDS.

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President Paul Kagame and his wife Jeannette Under the leadership of President Paul Kagame, Rwanda is now seen as a rare development success story in Africa.

Rwandaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s First lady is involved in helping widows and orphans of the Genocide and is the co-founder of the Organisation of African First ladies against HIV/AIDS. She is a graduate of one of Rwandaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own success stories - KIST (Kigali Institute of Science and Technology (next page)

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Helping with Rwanda’s rebuilding programme When Scotland gained it’s new Parliament in 1999 the British Government wrote to all diplomatic embassies in London urging them to take advantage of this new opportunity for trade and co-operation. I was honoured and thrilled when Rwanda’s Ambassador in London (Dr Zac Nsenga) asked me to become Honorary Consul for Rwanda in Scotland. My remit was to build links for trade, and especially education to help in the extensive rebuilding programme being undertaken by the new Rwandan government.

In 2001 they invited me on an orientation visit, so that I could see first hand all the challenges facing them in rebuilding their devastated country. I was briefed by Ministers - as well as meeting President Paul Kagame and his own senior staff.

Their task was enormous - but, I found that all were full of enthusiasm and a will to succeed. Some of them told me that they too wore the kilt whilst students in East Africa!

At this time some of the hardest tasks fell to the team led by Aloysie Inyumba “Unity and Reconciliation” (Centre); Patrick Mazimpaka faced issues related to the Congo (photo bottom centre) and Aloysie Cyanzayire (top right) had Gacaca Courts and Justice; the new Ministry for Gender Affairs was led by Angelina Muganza (bottom right). Rwanda soon led the world in appointing women into Parliament (over 50%) and in giving women in Rwanda rights to own land for the first time.

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Two of the Minsters for Education, Emmanuel Mudidi on my right and Eugene Munyakayanza on my left.

A new dawn for higher education in Rwanda In 1997 President Kagame invited Tanzanian born Professor Silas Lwakabamba (above second from right) to become the founding Rector of KIST - Kigali Institute of Science and Technology (and later Management). Silas had gained his B.Sc and Ph.D in the Mechanical Engineering Department at Leeds University in UK. He and his deputy - Engineer Albert Butare - were an inspired choice, and soon built high level international links, in USA, Europe - and especially with Scottish Universities such as Caledonian University, Glasgow.

As the Chancellor for this new Tertiary Education Institution President Kagame (at right above) presided over KIST’s first graduation ceremony in July 2002. The students celebrated and entertained everyone with spectacular displays of traditional Rwandan drumming and dancing. (Next page) In subsequent years - thanks to the work of Professor Gerda Siann - some Scottish Universities have given scholarships for Rwandan women to study at Masters level in Scotland. There was keen competition for the scholarship at Saint Andrews University - when Prince William was a student there!

President Kagame, his government and many of these students are now successfully using the emerging, digital communication and computer technologies - ICT - to drive Rwanda forward in a plan called “Vision 2020.” With this plan they hope Rwanda will emerge from poverty - to become a middle income nation. Given their enthusiasm, new skills and hard work I believe they will almost certainly succeed.

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Baroness Linda Chalker visits KIST Only eight years after her visit to a devastated Rwanda, Baroness Linda Chalker is shown around a successful KIST by Rector Silas Lwakabamba (at right), Vice Rector Albert Butare and Jolie Mazimpaka. KIST welcomed men and women to science, computing and engineering courses, and several of itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s innovations won international awards, especially for Bio-gas cooking and fuel efficient ovens - baking hundreds of bread rolls using little wood.

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A new Police force - a new flag and new hopes As part of their rebuilding programme Rwandan authorities changed from the former Military Gendarmerie to a community police force. To do this they received a lot of support and training from the German, and especially British Governments. Here President Paul Kagame addresses the passing out parade of new officers at the National Training Academy in Ruhengeri - which lies just beneath the Virunga volcanoes and Karisoke.

The band played the new National Anthem.

(On the facing page) Rwandan Prime Minister - Bernard Makuza, (front row, fifth from right) joins Government ministers and senior police officers to review a passing out parade at the Police Training School in Gishali.

The new Rwandan flag - which was adopted in 2001 - is paraded and saluted. The four colours are blue to represent happiness and peace, green the hope of prosperity, and yellow economic development - with the sun representing enlightenment.

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A rapidly changing Rwanda As the Rwandan government manages rapid change and embraces the new technologies, it still faces numerous basic problems. Like many countries in Africa, these are posed by a mainly agricultural economy and the aspirations of different traditional groups. Rwanda has now taken the enlightened view to remove the ethnic categories from the identity cards of its citizens - and all are now Rwandans.

When I first came to Rwanda in 1970, Dian Fossey was waging her own personal war against these cattle herders in the park (below) and Batwa pygmies (above). but, I believe this was a mistaken and simplistic view of complex social issues. These must now be addressed in all conservation management and development plans - if such plans are to succeed.

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Look out for another ‘Ark of the Forest’ - “Congo” In 1972, Alan Goodall was the first scientist to study other eastern gorillas - in the Kahuzi-Biega National Park (DRC) - which had been partially habitiuated by the Conservator, Adrian Deschryver. The Kahuzi gorillas are now classified by some as a separate sub-species - Gorilla gorilla graueri. Alan’s research was made possible by Dr Peter Kunkel, who was then Director General of IRSAC (Institut pour la Recherche Scientifique en Afrique Centrale) - located at Lwiro near Bukavu, in the Democratic Republic of the Congo (then Zaire). Dr Kunkel had initiated a wider project on Tropical Forest Ecology, associated with the University of Gottingen, the Naturkunde-Museum Stuttgart, and funded by Volkswagen-Stiftung.

Later, in 1979 on behalf of the World Wildlife Fund, Alan travelled throughout Kivu province in eastern Congo surveying the status of all eastern gorilla populations in this region. This was the first follow-up study since the pioneering one of George Schaller and John Emlen twenty years earlier.

Alan also climbed the spectacular Ruwenzori’s, or “Mountains of the Moon” and took some incredible photos of their unique vegetation and glaciers which have since almost disappeared.

In his final honours year at Liverpool University in 1970 Alan Goodall became fascinated by the new research area of Ethology (Animal Behaviour studies) and wrote to Professor Robert Hinde at Cambridge University about research studentships in his department. His letter was passed on to Dian Fossey, who was then visiting Cambridge - and looking for a research student to help her with field work on the rare mountain gorillas in Rwanda, Central Africa. Alanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interviews went well and he was accepted by Dian and Dr Louis Leakey to join her research. He won a NATO overseas scholarship for a doctoral research project on the mountain gorillas which are featured in this book.

Dr Alan Goodall has since been involved with Rwanda during various periods over the past forty years.

Alan is now retired and living in the mountains of the Southern Alps in France. However, he has still been working with the Rwandan Government in their rebuilding programme - particularly in Education and ICT and he returns to Rwanda whenever possible.

He can be contacted at alan.goodall@neuf.fr