In this guide, you'll learn how to grow and save seeds that get stronger and more delicious with each generation. Along the way, you'll join an ancient tradition of seed stewards, helping to heal our food system from the ground up.
Localization - Over time, seeds learn your soil, local pests, climate, and your habits, and will thrive with less effort from you.
Strengththroughcommunity - Share seeds, stories and knowledge. Every gardener adds to our local food security.
Selectforwhatyoulove- Grow food that matches what matters to you—flavor, sustainability, resilience, or all three.
C. moschata includes winter squash varieties like butternut, known for their sweet, dense flesh, excellent storage, and adaptability to challenging growing conditions. These seeds will produce plants with increased natural pest resistance, and delicious squash.
Grown by Lowell McCampbell in northern Florida.
Days to Harvest: days (early maturing)
Average Planting Date: May - Jun (after last frost date and soil has warmed)
Light: Plant in full sun, or part shade in hot climates
Days to germination: -
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PollinationNotes:Three common species of squash are C. maxima, C. moschata and C. pepo. Cross-pollination between the species is very rare and they can be planted in the same bed without consequence. Different varieties of the same species, however, easily cross-pollinate with the help of bees and other insects. Varieties of the same species should be grown half a mile apart if the seeds will be saved but cross-pollination is undesirable, e.g. between zucchini and delicata squash (both are C. pepo). Or, hand-pollinate the flower, then close with tape to prevent bee access, blocking cross-pollination. Mark the fruit with a ribbon to avoid accidental harvest before the seeds are ready to be saved. If cross-pollination is desired between varieties of the same species, simply plant seeds in random order in the same plot and let the bees do the work!
IdealPlanting
Conditions:Sow seeds in late spring/early summer after danger of frost and the soil temperature is F or more. Squash plants love compost. Avoid the use of insecticides, fungicides and other chemicals.
Plantseeds ” deep in the soil and ”- ” apart. Suggested final spacing: Vine-type- - ’ apart in rows, with rows - ’ apart. Or - seeds in a hill, with hills - ’ apart.Bush-type- ’ apart in rows, with rows - ’ apart. 4
Keep soil moist until seedlings emerge. Once squash haspairs of true leaves, it's time to thin!
When thinning, keep plants with strong stems, healthy leaves and vigorous growth. If population diversity is a goal, then identify differences between plants - some may have thicker or longer stems, or different sized, colored or shaped leaves. This diversity is good! Keep a mix of healthy plants with diverse characteristics.
Remove unwanted seedlings by cutting at soil level rather than pulling them out to avoid disturbing nearby roots. Reserve a few of these plants by gently lifting them from the soil with a fork and use them to fill any gaps in the bed.
Some plants will naturally resist pests, handle poor soil,and thrive in your local conditions. Keeping a diverse mix when thinning will help you to develop squash that are perfectly adapted to your garden.
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Blossoms from any of the common squash species may be eaten as is or stuffed, raw or cooked. The tender leaves and tips of the vines may also be eaten.Summersquashis ready to eat at any stage, even with the blossom attached, as long as the skin is tender. Simply cut the stem to harvest the fruit.
Wintersquash is usually harvested when the skin is too tough to pierce with your fingernail and the stem has started tobrown and dry, about - days after fruit set. If a hard frost is predicted, it is better to bring in winter squash or cover them overnight with a blanket since damage from frost can shorten the storage life. Any immature fruits can also be harvested and eaten like summer squash.
To harvest winter squash, cut the stem - inches above the fruit. Do not use the stem as a handle as it may break off. Stem removal may allow insects or disease to enter the fruit, reducing its storage life.
Allow the fruit to ‘cure’ at a warmish temperature ( ° F is the ideal), either indoors or outdoors depending on weather conditions, with good ventilation for - days before storing at cooler temperatures ( - ° F), again with good ventilation and some humidity. Squash should be turned periodically and inspected for soft spots or mold, and you should eat those starting to spoil first. Depending on the variety, some winter squash taste better if stored for a few weeks or months to allow the conversion of starches to sugar.
To save seeds from , the fruit must be allowed to mature on the plant to the same stage as winter squash, i.e., the skin will be too tough to pierce with a fingernail and the stem will start drying and browning, about - days after fruit set. The flesh may or may not be edible at this stage. For both summer and winter squash, if possible, store the fruits another - weeks or longer to allow the seeds to further mature.
If you must harvest your fruit a little early ( - days after fruit set) because of impending frost or a powdery mildew attack, cure as usual and try to store the fruits as long as possible to let the seeds mature. The seeds, while not as vigorous as fully mature seeds, will likely result in plants useful to your diverse squash population, especially if selecting for short season growth.
With large seeds and a dryish interior, squash is one of the easier fruits to save seed from, a fun project to do with kids.
. Use your fingers to separate the seeds from the stringy interior mass.
. (Optional: Rinse seeds in a colander under a stream of water, agitating to remove any remaining debris stuck to the seeds.)
. Spread seeds in a single layer on a plate, cookie sheet or screen and let dry, stirring occasionally to aerate evenly and prevent sticking. Use a fan to increase air circulation if necessary.
Seeds are dry enough when they snap crisply when broken in half. Remove chaff by pouring seeds outdoors in front of a fan or on a windy day from one container to another (chaff will blow away and seeds will fall into container). Store seeds in an airtight container kept cool and dark.
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These C. moschata seeds were grown by Lowell McCampbell, a farmer in N. Florida. Lowell started by sowing many varieties of C. moschata together in the same field and identifying pest-resistant plants. He collected seeds from the best-tasting fruits of these plants each year. By allowing the plants to freely cross-pollinate over the years, he has developed a diverse population of C. moschata that grows vigorously and produces abundantly under his local conditions.
Sow every seed in this packet and start your journey to create the best moschata population for your garden!
Photo Credit Wren Haffner, Mountain Jewel
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Squash is a member of the Cucurbita genus and originated in Central America and Mexico as a wild plant. Archaeological evidence suggests that squash was first domesticated in Mexico between , and , years ago. This was around , years before maize (corn) was domesticated.
Squash was a vital part of the diet of Native Americans in both North and South America before Columbus. The word"squash" comes from the Narragansett Native American word askutasquash, which means "eaten raw or uncooked". Native Americans would roast or boil squash and pumpkins, and preserve the flesh in syrup. Squash was also used as a container or utensil because of its hard shell.
Squash was introduced to Europe by Christopher Columbus and other explorers. It became popular in areas with favorable growing conditions, particularly in Southern Europe. Today, squash is grown all over the world and is a popular food in many Eastern European countries.
(Google AI overview)
LocallyAdapted,CommunitySelected YearbyYearGuide
How to adapt a crop to our local environment?
Year1: Lots of gardeners plant lots of seeds. Some plants won’tmake it, and that’s OK; celebrate the strong ones. Save seeds from any plants that produce seeds despite challenges.
Year2: Sow your saved seeds and those from other gardeners inyour community, if possible. If you have many plants to choose from, be more selective and save seeds from the most delicious plants or fruits.
Year3andbeyond:Continue to sow your saved seeds, including a few from other local gardeners or or purchased varieties. Save seeds from plants with the traits you love, e.g., best flavor, dark colors, a preferred size/shape, or early ripening. Keep thepopulation diverse to allow it to adapt and evolve (always save seeds from multiple plants).
TheKey: Share your saved seeds with the community through your seed library. Your seeds will be mixed with everyone's and shared back out through the seed libraries.
Please fill out this sticker or form and return with your seeds
● Bring them to your local seed library in any clean container
● Fill out a quick check-in slip (found near the seed cabinet, or use the tear-off page here.
● Note any special traits or reasons you saved the seeds.
Seed Packet
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When you return seeds, you're helping build a living library of locally-adapted varieties that get stronger with each passing season.
Return Seeds Instructions:
Location
Mailing Address to mail in seeds
Volunteer Info– Days,Times,Address
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Mission: We are cultivating community resilience by spreading regionally adapted seeds and knowledge.
Local challenges
(Lowell notes)
-rec changing both photos. Unfortunately, I do not have any photos of what my squash look like.They are more like seminole/tropical pumpkins
Challenges - pests. I have to plant late march after our last frost or early april to avoid a moth caterpillar that feasts on a wide spectrum of cucurbita leaves in high summer. I do not worry about squash vine borers or squash bugs because these plants are resistant to them. Early planting also helps avoid squash bugs and makes for stronger established plants.
