Interview Jacob Arabo
Founder and CEO Jacob & Co.
Stephan Winkelmann CEO Bugatti
Urban Jürgensen ONE COLLECTION
TECHNIQUE A rich vein of new materials STORY Omega: Moonwatch the fascinating little stories behind a grand adventure
A CLASSICAL DEFINITION OF BEAUTY
GMT ME No 25 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2019
25
9 771660 110613
AGENT DUBAI U.A.E. Bonus Eventus jbeainy@bonuseventus.ae
RETAILERS DUBAI U.A.E. Watch Gallery +971 4434 1544
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Now open for reservation. Watches will be available on July 2019. Orders will be on a first-in first-served policy.
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EDITORIAL SUMMER 2019
T
he Annual Award of ECAL Lausanne School of Arts and Design which was presented for the first edition on 28th of June 2019 in Lausanne goes to Clara Martin for her outstanding work “The Authority of Black”. Clara is a graduate of the ECAL’s “ Master of Advanced Studies in Design for Luxury & Craftsmanship “ program in recognition for their art, work and passion. The “De Bethune Award” comprises a cash prize and mentoring to support the recipient’s journey. Switzerland is a privileged country in terms of craftsmanship, sensibility and knownhow in the fields of art,design and luxury. Addressing sectors of excellence as varied as fine watchmaking, tableware and exploring the uses of noble materials through specific techniques is made possible thanks to the Master of Advanced Studies in Design for Luxury & Craftsmanship of the ECAL/Ecole cantonale d’art de Lausanne (Lausanne School of Arts and Design), which encourages experimentation at all stages of a product’s development, from design to manufacture. True to this spirit, and in keeping with the tradition art mechanics for which the Swiss Jura is known and of which he is a fervent advocate, Denis Flageolet, Founder and Master Watchmaker of De Bethune, has initiated a dialogue with ECAL Director Alexis Georgacopoulos, to find a way of encouraging a graduate in his or her research as it passes the milestone of the Master’s Degree. The DB28 Tourbillon Noir, the tests with black dials and blue exteriors, the black DB27, the work on the black bronze of the Maestri Art which transcends the color of gold, the black Dream Watch 5 with different textures and materials…De Bethune’s years-long research on the subject is dense. De Bethune looks forward to finding answers to his quest together with Clara, and is pleased to present Clara with a grant of 8,000 CHF in support of her work and her journey. Until next issue, FADI JAMIL I Publisher, Editor-in-Chief
GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Head of Creative / Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com
GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
GMT MIDDLE EAST NO25 | SUMMER 2019
We assemble every single watch twice. Because perfection takes time.
For us, perfection is a matter of principle. This is why, on principle, we
parts are cleaned and decorated by hand with finishing and polishing
craft all timepieces with the same care and assemble each watch twice.
techniques, followed by the final assembly procedure. This assures
Thus, after the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE has been assembled for the first
long-term functional integrity and the immaculacy of all artisanal fin-
time and precisely adjusted, it is taken apart again. The movement
ishes. Even if this takes a little more time. www.alange-soehne.com
You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:
A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE DUBAI The Dubai Mall · Tel. +971 4 325 39 23 · dubai@lange-soehne.ae
CONTENTS SUMMER 2019
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46
30 EDITORIAL 32 CONTENTS 36 CONTRIBUTORS
BUSINESS 38 HOT NEWS 64 TECHNIQUE | A rich vein of new materials 70 INTERVIEW | Jacob Arabo | Founder and CEO Jacob & Co. and Stephan Winkelmann | CEO Bugatti
114 NEW RELEASES
LIFESTYLE
58 COVER STORY
62 EDITOR’S PICK
Urban Jürgensen: ONE COLLECTION
The siren call of time
82 RATEL
80 PORTFOLIO | Bucherer Blue Editions 80 SCENTS | Gucci Guilty Cologne | Boss
White Chrono: Crafted for a bold and unique lifestyle
84 STORY OMEGA Moonwatch the fascinating little stories behind a grand adventure
88 TOURBILLON DAY Breguet Celebrates Tourbillon Day
94 SAGA TAG HEUER The Autavia is back on track
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Bottled Oud aromatic and Saffron
114 JET-SET AUTO Rolls-Royce Unveils Wraith Eagle VIII Collection
118 JET-SET Swiss Luxury Apartments, A place to live and work
122 ZOOM
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
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CONTENTS SUMMER 2019
74 Focus
Close-up view of 8 new releases
74 ANONIMO Deep down, vintage reigns supreme
75 CHOPARD A thousand and one passions
76 DE BETHUNE Diving into light-filled waters
77 GRAFF Precious wall
78 JAEGER-LECOULTRE Vast
79 JAQUET DROZ In stable imbalance
80 LOUIS VUITTON Beating the Tambour
81 MAURICE LACROIX Simply classic
77 34
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74 80
D1MILANO.COM
CONTRIBUTORS
Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.
Brice Lechevalier Involved in all aspects of the magazine, the founder seeks to convey a sense of pleasure to readers through the various articles.
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Cloé Mugny
Marie De Pimodan
Christophe Persoz
A member of the GMT Publishing team, this translator by training contributes to the Editor’s Picks column.
An expert watch journalist who presents new models as well as handling the Craftsmanship column.
This experienced watchmaker analyzes a model that he wears for an entire week before delivering his technical and aesthetic verdict.
Paul O’Neil
Michèle Brunner
David Chokron
The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.
An experienced member of the GMT Publishing editorial team, she reports on brand events and products.
An expert watch journalist, he provides content for our Tech Insights column as well as presenting the latest new models.
Camille Guille
Edouard Haegi
Serge Panczuk
With a pseudo like perpetual.girl, how could one not take an interest in the instagram accounts she recommends ?
Edouard Haegi is our inhouse photographer/videomaker, who also handles the Watch Photo Awards.
This California-based collector is also a keen traveler who shares his extremely personal vision of what a watch is and what it “tells” us.
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Panerai
Opens its second boutique in Dubai at the Mall of Emirates DUBAI, JUNE 2019 - PANERAI, the Florentine high quality sports
underwater universe. The use of oak, veined Italian marble
watch brand, has opened its second boutique in Dubai at the
“calacatta luccicoso”, burnished brass, bronze and a special
renowed shopping destination Mall of the Emirates.
“reeded” glass, undulating and transparent, reinterprets the
With an area of 35 square metres, the new outlet displays the four collections of the brand to enthusiasts and collectors.
An intimate space for clients to unwind and appreciate the
The boutique remains consistent to the concept of Panerai
Panerai novelties and collection is provided to offer consumers
boutiques worldwide.
with luxurious and exclusive shopping environments.
The design and materials used for the Panerai area respects its Italian tradition and stands as a clear reference to the
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technical codes of the watchmaker.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
With the recent international openings in Shanghai, Rome, and Zurich, Panerai now has 87 boutiques throughout the world.
TOURBILLON CHRONOMETER NO.36 ROYAL COLLECTION
Swiss Craftsmanship
www.arnoldandson.com
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Jaquet Droz
unveils its 2019 novelties at Dubai Mall The swiss luxury brand enriches its collection of timepieces combining watchmaking experties, artistic sense and creavitiy JUNE 13, 2019, UAE DUBAI - Switzerland’s luxury watch, brand Jaquet Droz along with Rivoli Group revealed their 2019 Novelties
MAGIC LOTUS AUTOMATON: The new Magic Lotus Automaton invites meditation and
to the UAE at their Jaquet Droz boutique in the Dubai Mall,
contemplation in an animated Zen garden. Fauna and flora
inviting connoisseurs, collectors and watch aficionados from the
come to life in breathtaking detail in this luxurious showcase of
Middle East to explore and discover the watchmaking expertise,
artisanal techniques.
artistic sense and creativity of the brand. Cultivating the spirit of the art of astonishment, the Ateliers of
An ode to life and perpetual new beginnings, the new Magic Lotus Automaton is an unprecedented animation for Jaquet Droz.
Haute Horlogerie from La Chaux-de-Fonds gave pride of place to
A new development that was designed and assembled in house,
Grande Seconde collections, Automata or Ateliers d’Art through
this automaton features an exceptionally long animation that
creations that delighted connoisseurs and fine watchmaking
runs to more than four minutes. In this time a naturalist fresco
enthusiasts who had opportunity to enjoy and view up-close and
unfolds with all the grace and serene beauty of a Zen garden.
personal the latest timepieces. Christian Lattmann CEO of Jaquet Droz commented, “With more than 280 years of legend combined with exquisite
It was one of the few complications yet to grace the Grande
craftsmanship and history, we are confident our new timepieces
Seconde. Now the monopusher chronograph makes its grand
will be a delight for UAE customers. Jaquet Droz timepieces have
entrance into the Jaquet Droz collection, equipped with an
always been inspired by nature, which is very great source of
exclusive movement. An inaugural, limited series piece is
inspiration, for painting and engraving along with mysteries of
complemented by three permanent additions to the collection.
the universe and its infinite possibilities.” The main highlights of Jaquet Droz were the new horological
40
GRAND SECONDE CHRONOGRAPH:
The new 2019 novelties would be touring across the globe post the unveiling in Dubai, United Arab Emirates. The timepieces are
masterpieces – Magic Lotus Automaton and Grande Seconde
expected to travel next to Japan followed by China, Hong Kong,
Chronograph.
Malaysia, United States of America and Australia.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
SWISS LUXURY APARTMENT GENEVA
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A home away from home in the city center for your frequent visits to Geneva? Or a more spacious alternative to your hotel room for a longer duration of stay? You finally found it ! Experience the 24 luxuriously appointed apartments in the very heart of Geneva where modern furnishings and state of the art equipment meet the charm of a historical building. Enjoy added privacy along with personalized service of the experienced team on site and feel like you were in your own home. This property was recognized with the World Travel Award for the second year in a row for its excellent facilities and quality of service.
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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Cyrus Klepcys Alarm For Only Watch
A UNIQUE PIECE FEATURING AN EYE-CATCHING OLIVE GREEN DIAL
Cyrus Watches is honoured to be part of the 8th edition of the biannual charity auction of unique timepieces ONLY WATCH to
DLC coating and its double crown (46 mm in diameter without
support the research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.
crowns), extremely comfortable on the wrist thanks to its
The charity auction, under the patronage of HSH the Prince of
ergonomic construction.
Monaco and at the initiative of Luc Pettavino, President of the
The beating heart of the KLEPCYS ALARM is its in-house
Association Monégasque contre les Myophaties, will take place
manufactured hand-winding CYR1280 calibre which ensures
on November 9th 2019 – under the hammer of Christie’s – at
a power reserve of 72 hours. The case back is engraved “ONLY
the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva.
WATCH” and its anti-reflective sapphire crystal allows to admire
CYRUS –high-end niche brand with its own independent
the elegant architecture of the movement. It displays two
Manufacture in Le Locle (Switzerland), known for the creation
parallel barrels with the ratchet-wheel embellished with black
of timepieces with original, avant-garde architectures and
lacquer and the helix, Cyrus’s symbol. The exclusive winding
movements – is pleased to participate with a model featuring
system, conceived by Jean-François Mojon in collaboration with
the “alarm complication”.
his team, allows the barrel placed close to the balance wheel to
This fascinating and useful complication – rarely found on a wristwatch – is the “soul” of the unique piece “KLEPCYS ALARM” which showcases an eye-catching green olive dial, expressly made for ONLY WATCH. The creator of the Cyrus KLEPCYS ALARM, a superlatively
power the main time and the second to provide the energy to the sub-dial that activates the alarm. In keeping with the tradition of watchmaking art, no detail is overlooked, and also the bridges of the movement are finely finished and decorated with an engraved, curved sunray pattern,
manufactured watch with an unusual interpretation of the
brushed and polished, on which the jewels and the mirror-
alarm function that incorporates the typical chime of the minute
polished screws stand out.
repeater, is Jean-François Mojon, one of today’s most talented
The KLEPCYS ALARM ONLY WATCH is a unique piece
master watchmakers and technical manager of Chronode, the
completed by a customised black rubber strap with a central
in-house Manufacture of the Cyrus Watches Group.
groove bearing the Cyrus symbol and a folding clasp that has a
The common element of this exclusive watch, with a modern, bold style that immediately identifies it with the Cyrus brand,
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is its iconic multi-layer, cushion-shaped steel case with black
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
mechanism for a simple and quick size setting.
MANUFACTURE CALIBRE ARF15 16½’’’
MIRRORED FORCE RESONANCE GUILLOCHÉ DIAL
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
A ceramic face for the Fifty Fathoms
Blancpain is reinterpreting its Fifty Fathoms, the iconic diver’s watch that has inspired the entire genre since its launch in 1953. The 2019 edition retains the sporty and distinguished character of its peers, to which it adds a touch of chic and high-tech with a red gold case and a ceramic dial. The Fifty Fathoms is one of Blancpain’s inescapable models.
a ratcheted unidirectional rotating bezel recall the origins
a point of honour to continue developing it in such a way
of this watch. Dictated by a long experience of diving, these
as to satisfy every expectation of diving and water sports
decisive choices are the guarantee of perfect visibility in all
enthusiasts. This year, Blancpain has opted to introduce a
circumstances.
stylish version by opting for a precious case in satin-brushed
Featuring a 45 mm diameter case and water-resistant to 300
red gold. For the first time in the collection, the dial of this
metres, the new Fifty Fathoms Automatic beats to the rhythm
new product is attired in blue ceramic. Through this unique
of the 1315 movement. Stemming from a lengthy quest for
combination of materials and colours, Blancpain achieves a
precision and performance, it has been specially designed for
bold double alliance.
sports watches. Blancpain has equipped it in this instance
Already used by Blancpain in the creation of bezels for its
with a very dense red gold oscillating weight ensuring high
Bathyscaphe models, technical ceramics offer a multitude
winding efficiency for an optimal five-day power reserve when
of advantages. Their hardness – six times greater than that
the watch is fully wound. This rotor is cut out as a nod to the
of steel – endows them with exceptional qualities, including
history of the Fifty Fathoms, since this geometry made it more
remarkable stability and longevity. Although particularly
supple at the time in order to protect the movement from
complex to produce and machine, this material has been
potential impacts.
chosen by Blancpain because of the chromatic depth is serves
44
material, a slightly curved scratchproof sapphire crystal and
Its roots in history are such that the Manufacture makes it
Resolutely technical with its ceramic dial, as well as
to achieve. The new Fifty Fathoms Automatic is thus adorned
luxurious with its red gold case and the meticulous finishing
with a cobalt-like shimmer featuring a pleasing contrast
of its movement, the new Fifty Fathoms Automatique is
between the sunburst dial centre and the matt chapter ring.
teamed with a blue calf leather strap, an additional detail
The DNA of the collection remains identifiable at first glance:
evoking the inseparable link between Blancpain and the
numerals, hour-markers and hands coated with luminescent
splendours of the sea bed.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Omega Rocket Engine
Introducing the Master Chronometer Calibre 3861 INTRODUCING THE MASTER CHRONOMETER CALIBRE 3861:
of the 27 CHRO C12 that was first designed and produced in
the driving force behind OMEGA’s Apollo 11 tribute and a
1941. Renamed calibre 321 in 1949, the robust and elegant
movement with its own lunar legacy.
chronograph movement has been a favourite ever since and is
An OMEGA was the first watch worn on the Moon; and to
it was the 321 that powered the Speedmaster watches qualified
has released a collection of commemorative timepieces powered
by NASA for use on all manned space missions; and a modified
by the Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, a descendant of the
version of the calibre drove the Speedmaster chronographs worn
movement that went to the Moon.
by Apollo 11’s astronauts.
OMEGA’s legendary Calibre 321 was the direct descendant
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still highly sought-after by watch collectors around the world, as
mark the 50th anniversary of that golden moment the brand
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Rado Captain Cook Automatic Limited Edition with travel case - A vintage look for modern time travellers WE ARE LIVING IN A WORLD OF CONTRADICTIONS. In our
1968 and was known for its compact design and distinctive
constantly connected lives, we sometimes find ourselves
features. Since 2017, the Captain Cook has been back in the
dreaming of simpler times even as we appreciate the
Rado collection and true to the original in almost every way.
convenience of modern technology. If only we could have one foot in the past and one in the present. Future-focused Swiss watchmaker Rado proves that we
new 2019 Captain Cook is delivered in a hard-wearing leather
can have it all by combining the brand’s illustrious past with
travel pouch with a selection of additional straps. If the brown
its pioneering present for a watch that is designed to look
vintage-look leather strap isn’t what you’re looking for today,
good now – and in the future. This is the new Captain Cook
simply exchange it for the fine knit stainless steel Milanese
Automatic Limited Edition.
bracelet or the durable NATO strap.
The original Captain Cook was produced between 1962 and
48
Limited to just 1,962 pieces, and balancing authentic vintage style with the modern preference for personalisation, the
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Chopard announces
the opening of its new flagship boutique on London’s Bond Street CHOPARD is pleased to announce the reopening of its London
business run by the Scheufeles from generation to generation,
boutique on the capital’s luxurious Bond Street. Larger than
each boutique is designed to resemble a private residence
ever before and refurbished in harmony with the environment
where its customers naturally feel at home. A cosily familiar
to echo Chopard’s Journey to Sustainable Luxury, it thus
setting that preserves certain recurring design elements
becomes one of the key European flagship stores for the Maison
inspired by the very first Chopard boutique in Vienna – which
which has some 160 boutiques around the globe. With this
adapt equally well to the cultural specificities of each country
prestigious showcase resembling a comfortable, elegant family
in which Chopard operates. As they travel around the world,
home in the heart of one of the world’s most cosmopolitan
clients of the Maison are invited to visit each of its boutiques
cities in the world, Chopard once again asserts its position as an
as a new place of discovery. The Chopard boutique on Bond
ethical and contemporary Maison de Grand Luxe.
Street thus takes on the appearance of an English club with
Located at the prestigious Mayfair address at 12-13 Bond
its plush lounges, decorated with vintage parquet flooring,
Street, London’s Chopard boutique will reopen its doors
fireplaces and deep sofas, as well as its exclusive bar where
imminently, substantially enlarged and embellished from a
guests of the Maison can revel in a relaxing moment. This
several-month revamp and becoming the Maison’s largest
warm, personal style and sense of comfort perfectly sum up
boutique in Europe. Not only a showcase for Chopard’s prestige
the Chopard family spirit of providing its customers with an
and positioning in the world of luxury, the boutique will also
unforgettable experience, because well beyond its role as a
reflect the Maison’s commitment to sustainability. Since 2018,
watch and jewellery manufacturer, Chopard envisions itself as
Chopard has been the first watchmaker-jeweller to use 100%
a family. With this in mind, the redesign successfully mingles
ethical gold for the production of all its creations.
the Maison’s identity with the specific characteristics of the historic buildings in Mayfair. An alchemy designed to create
AN ELEGANT FAMILY HOME In keeping with the cherished traditions of the family
50
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
a splendid setting that is sure to attract the English capital’s international clientele.
Paris 8ème
Grand Powers 52 rue François 1er - Paris 8ème Book your stay directly on hotelgrandpowersparis.com +33 (0)1 47 23 91 05
Grand Powers is a new 5 star boutique hotel, in the heart of the Paris Golden triangle. The hotel embodies the Parisian effortless chic and offers a vibrant modern touch combined with all luxury services, in a prime location.
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
IWC premieres
new pilot’s watches campaign movie with brand ambassador Lewis Hamilton SCHAFFHAUSEN, 2ND MAY 2019 – IWC Schaffhausen premieres
the previous film, Hamilton used his Ingenieur Chronograph
its new Spitfire collection campaign movie, starring brand
to stop time and halt the Mercedes-Benz Silver Arrow W 196 in
ambassador Lewis Hamilton. The five-time Formula OneTM
its tracks. While the concept remains the same, the addition of
World Champion appears alongside a Mercedes-Benz Silver
the Spitfire brings together the worlds of vintage motorsport
Arrow race car and a Silver Spitfire aircraft.
and aviation. By creating a link between these two fundamental
IWC is releasing this film as part of an extensive global
passion for mechanics and engineering. The relationship
In the movie, Lewis Hamilton is driving the Mercedes-Benz
between Hamilton and IWC builds on the long-standing
Silver Arrow W 125 around the Goodwood Race Track, when a
and fruitful collaboration between the Swiss luxury watch
Spitfire aircraft overtakes him. As the Spitfire approaches again
manufacturer and Mercedes-AMG Petronas Motorsport.
in low flight, he pushes the “stop” button on his Pilot’s Watch
“With the Mercedes-Benz Silver Arrow W 125, a Spitfire
Chronograph Spitfire. Time freezes and the aircraft comes to
aircraft and our new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire, the
a complete standstill in mid-air. After admiring the Spitfire
movie brings together the spirit of adventure of the driver with
from different angles, Hamilton releases it by pressing the
the performance, precision and beauty of the machine. We pair
push-button on his chronograph watch. The film ends with the
these icons with IWC brand ambassador Lewis Hamilton, who
slogan, “I can stop time, but nothing stops me”, highlighting
is not only a living legend in his sport but also a style icon. In
the Formula OneTM star as a man who is in control of his
doing so, we underscore IWC’s appeal to a discerning audience
destiny, wearing a watch designed for individuals who require
with an appreciation of masterful engineering and timeless
precision to master new challenges.
design,” explains Franziska Gsell, Chief Marketing Officer of
The new movie is a natural evolution of the 2017 campaign, which also featured IWC brand ambassador Lewis Hamilton. In
52
pillars of the IWC universe, the film celebrates the brand’s
advertising campaign revolving around its new Pilot’s Watches.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
IWC Schaffhausen.
Tel: +971 4 8880017
www.chronometer.ae
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Audemars piguet debuts
new sound installation and public performance by Jana Winderen alongside Fernando Mastrangelo’s lounge design at Art Basel in Basel LE BRASSUS, 22 MAY 2019 – Swiss Haute-Horlogerie
also invites them to take part in the piece and experience two
manufacturer Audemars Piguet is delighted to present a
types of listening: through speakers mixing with the live ambient
new site-specific sound installation by Norwegian artist
sounds of visitors in the lounge and with headphones in the
Jana Winderen at Art Basel in Basel, in its lounge designed
intimacy of Mastrangelo’s “escape lounge.”
by Brooklyn-based Fernando Mastrangelo. Winderen’s
with the attentive, detailed and precise work of Audemars Piguet
Vallée de Joux, home of Audemars Piguet. Together, Winderen
craftsmen. As Winderen explains: “I share a fascination for, and
and Mastrangelo’s works offer visitors an immersive sensory
attention to, very small details with watchmakers. I carefully
experience of the Swiss Jura Mountains.
‘listen with’ and to the creatures around us, paying attention to
Winderen’s sound installation will be complemented by a live
how they interact with the environment. Through this focused
public performance, organised in collaboration with HeK, House
listening, I also start to notice my immediate surrounding.
of Electronic Arts Basel, during Art Basel on Tuesday, June 11 at
Watchmakers, too, have an increased sensitivity to sound. The
10pm. Additional details above.
watch comes alive with its ticking.”
Winderen’s artwork amplifies the sounds of our environment
Meanwhile, Mastrangelo’s design, The Vallée, amplifies the
and empathetically connects listeners to the fragility of our
evocation of the Swiss Jura Mountains’ natural environment set
global ecosystems. Her latest composition, Du Petit Risoud aux
by Winderen’s sound artwork. Inspired by the Manufacture’s
profondeurs du Lac de Joux, was developed following several
origins, Mastrangelo’s design was first unveiled at Art Basel in
visits to the Vallée de Joux’s forest and lake. It focuses on sounds
Hong Kong earlier this year and will continue its evolution in
both accessible and inaccessible to the human ear, encompassing
Miami Beach and into 2020. The design element debuting in Basel
various layers of the Vallée de Joux, from the 300-year-old slow
is a chandelier made of crushed glass, referencing the limestone
growing spruce trees of the Risoud forest to the sounds made and
stalactites in the Swiss Vallorbe Caves, which will be suspended
heard by the fish in the depths of the Lac de Joux. Amplifying the
above the watchmaker’s desk.
sounds of these ecosystems through high-definition recordings
As Mastrangelo describes: “I wanted to reflect the
including a Sound Field microphone, hydrophones and an
Manufacture’s history and the landscape that inspires the
Ultrasound detector, Winderen offers unique ways of seeing,
creation of these beautiful watches. The space for me is about
listening and interacting with our immediate surroundings, while
the journey across the Vallée de Joux and each part of the journey
exploring how sounds from the forest and the land are impacted
is punctuated with sculpture and furniture. The audience will
by human activities.
walk through the spruce tree forest, watch the sunset from the
Winderen’s collage of interwoven layers of sounds from the
54
Du Petit Risoud aux profondeurs du Lac de Joux resonates deeply
composition takes visitors on an acoustic journey across the
Vallée and feel the texture of the Swiss Vallorbe Caves. Each part
Vallée de Joux provides visitors with a large and intimate sense of
is handmade and cast using materials as a metaphor for the awe-
the region where Audemars Piguet developed over time. The artist
inspiring landscape.”
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Lange 1 Time Zone “25th Anniversary” The fifth model of the anniversary collection appeals to cosmopolites The LANGE 1 TIME ZONE keeps track of the time at home and of the time in another zone. In commemoration of the 25th birthday of the LANGE 1, A. Lange & Söhne presents a 25-watch limited edition in white gold with blued-steel hands for frequent travellers and cosmopolites.
IN OUR GLOBALISED WORLD, watches with several time
unique feature. It is particularly convenient during longer stays
zones rank among the most useful complications. GMT
abroad when zone time becomes the home time. The global
timepieces indicate the time in a further zone which needs
launch of the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE in 2005 was accompanied
to be remembered. A world-time watch simultaneously tells
by the tagline “Born in Saxony – at home around the world”. It
the time in several zones. Which may lead to confusion.
takes on a double meaning here.
Conversely, the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE provides a clearly legible double time indication with a city ring that simplifies the
Anniversary” edition of the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE. The
setting of a second time zone.
41.9-millimetre white-gold case is combined with an argenté-
While the large numerals circle shows home time, the small
coloured dial, thermally blued screws, and blue inscriptions –
circle indicates the time in a second time zone. Each of the 24
including the outsize date. A blue alligator leather strap with a
time zones is represented by a city name on the peripheral city
white-gold prong buckle completes the stringent colour concept.
ring. A golden arrow at 5 o’clock points at the name of the city
Finished to the highest standards, the manually wound calibre
that represents the currently displayed time zone. Actuated 24
L031.1 features a twin mainspring barrel with a power reserve of
times, the corrector at 8 o’clock travels around the entire world
three days. The sapphire-crystal caseback exposes the three-quarter
in an easterly direction. Every switching cycle advances the hour
plate with the wheel train that powers the zone-time ensemble.
hand of the small subsidiary dial by one hour.
Further quality hallmarks include four screwed gold chatons, a
The dual day/night indication provides extra orientation. Each
screw balance with a classic whiplash precision index adjuster as
of the two time circles features a small arrow-shaped hand. The
well as manually engraved intermediate wheel and balance cocks.
bright/dark segments tell the user whether it is day or night,
The intermediate wheel cock is graced with a blue line engraving
separately for home time and for the second time zone.
with the anniversary number 25: Its typography and shape
A refined synchronisation mechanism makes it possible to swap the zone time on the subsidiary dial to the large dial – a
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Silver and blue are the colours that dominate the “25th
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
correspond to the Lange outsize date. It is the shared attribute of all models of the ten-watch “25th Anniversary” collection.
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
COVER STORY FADI JAMIL
Urban Jürgensen ONE COLLECTION A CLASSICAL DEFINITION OF BEAUTY
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“such a harmony among the parts and of the part to the whole and the whole to the part, that nothing could be added, changed, or removed, but for the worse.”
H
armony separates the extraordinary product from the ordinary. Classical harmony appeals, like a fractal pattern, to the deepest levels of human perception. It creates a feeling of coherence, of
understanding, which is both intellectual and emotional, a sense of organic “rightness.” This “H-factor” sustains whimsical passing fads, and secures lasting admiration. Since 1773 Urban Jürgensen timepieces have been an example of uncompromising craftsmanship; A tradition the company feel honour-bound to perpetuate. A brief review of the iconic tome “The Jürgensen Dynasty” nearly 1100 pictures reveals 245 years and 4 generations of family master watchmakers with their adherence to classical purpose built designs and restrained elegance when crafting the Company´s timepieces. Although wristwatches from Jüles Jürgensen were available since the early 1900´s The arrival of Urban Jürgensen wrist watches came late in the Company history, starting in 1981 with the now highly collectable Ref 1 Chronograph. The Collection expanded but in the near 40 years, less than 1000 pieces have been made – making them truly rare. The style being always classical designs, mostly with teardrop lugs and precious material cases, fine handmade silver dials and with straps in exotic leather. A gentleman’s ultimate fine dress watch.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 59
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Continuing its extraordinary 245 years of fine watchmaking Urban Jürgensen takes a bold new step and presents the Jürgensen One Collection with 4 new timepieces in the vaunted luxury stainless steel category. A category that has seen very little real news since its defining era in the 1970´s with Gerald Genta´s designs and their inspired variants. The Reference 5241 is available with Soft White, Charcoal Grey and Urban Blue dial color, and is an automatic three hand timepiece with date and sweep seconds. The Reference 5541 GMT available exclusively in Urban Blue is an automatic GMT timepiece with two pushers for forward/backward correction of the central hour hand with unidirectional date change, sweep seconds and a 24 hour subdial for home time. Both references are crafted entirely from Medical Grade 1.4441 steel, including the integrated steel bracelet with butterfly double secure locking clasp, and are waterproof to 120 meters. The new Jürgensen One Collection is expected to be available at our retail partners starting in April for Ref 5241 and June for Ref 5541 GMT - and if due to demand clients would encounter a shortage – Urban Jürgensen will of course accept an order and deliver as soon as possible.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 61
EDITOR’S PICK CLOÉ MUGNY
The siren call of time BAUME & MERCIER
CARL F. BUCHERER
ULTRAMARINE
ORIS X BUCHERER
Divers Sixty-Five
62
Clifton Club
Patravi ScubaTec Black
Equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel, this self-winding bronze watch offers optimal readability with its SuperLumiNova® filled hands and hour-markers striking a strong contrast with the green dial.
Manta Special Edition Celebrating the partnership with Manta Trust, this ultra-light titanium model features the silhouette of two manta ray stripes on the dial side, an engraving of the sea creature on the back, as well as a strap made of recycled plastic.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Morse 9114B GMT Designed and developed by brand founder Lionel Bruneau, this GMT model adorned in ultramarine blue is issued in a 300-piece limited edition and 10% of its price is donated to an NGO fighting to protect marine life.
Chronograph Bucherer Blue Editions Oris revisits its emblematic diving chronograph by equipping it with a Bucherer blue dial bearing light-colored hour-markers facilitating time read-off, and by equipping it with a brown strap featuring blue topstitching.
Diver’s watches are essential when it comes to exploring the depths. These custodians of time serve to accurately measure immersion times and calculate decompression stops by means of the unidirectional rotating bezel. In the company of these sirens, there is no reason to run out of air.
CORUM Admiral Legend 42
ALPINA Seastrong Diver 300
DELMA Blue Shark III
ZRC Grands Fonds 300
marinv /stock.adobe.com
1964 Spirit Bronze
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 63
Technique DAVID CHOKRON
A rich vein of
new materials 64
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
TAG HEUER’S Isograph
regulating system, featuring a carbon hairspring
CHRONOMÉTRIE FERDINAND BERTHOUD
Chronomètre FB 1R.6 in kolsterised steel
Reinvigorated by a new expansion phase, watch brands are currently feeling emboldened to introduce all kinds of innovative materials, driving what appears to be an inexhaustible and ever more high-performance field of endeavor.
I
nnovation in terms of materials is a fundamental component in the creation of new watchmaking products. For around the past 15 years, the steel-gold-titanium trium-
virate has been steadily enriched by welcoming materials that would never previously have been envisaged. In particular, ceramics and composites have become increasingly important and all the more conspicuous in that they enable exceptional performance. The last 12 months have brought a new wave, mostly used to produce watch cases. The latter are the most visible and distinctive part of watches, as well as the heaviest and most exposed. Which explains why composite materials are so popular, since they are increasingly lighter and scratch-resistant. Due to their composite nature, i.e. composed of several distinct materials – not fused as in an alloy – they are able to maintain the characteristics of each element. Yet their structural properties are not their only advantage, as they also feature certain aspects that appeal to designers.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 65
ZENITH Defy Inventor, Aeronith bezel
ULYSSE NARDIN Skeleton X,
GIRARD-PERREGAUX Laureato
Carbonium case
Absolute Chronograph, Carbon Glass case
COMBINING Many products combine carbon black with other colorful ingredients. Hublot weaves blue fibers into its skeleton Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon, while Ulysse Nardin uses Carbonium, an extremely rigid material widely used in aviation and featuring a high proportion of long-fiber carbon. When mixed with gold fibers, as in the Skeleton X, it takes on a precious moiré appearance. GirardPerregaux is counting on a blue effect with its Laureato Absolute Chronograph. The case made of Carbon Glass benefits from the extreme rigidity of this material, provided by its matrix in ultrahard resin as well as glass fibers, a traditional component of composites. Plus it can be colored at will. Finally, Zenith has opted for maximum lightness with its Defy Inventor : its bezel is made of Aeronith, an in-house developed material made from aluminum foam stiffened with a polymer.
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
NEW MINIJET COLLECTION POWERFUL. FUN. EXCEPTIONAL.
EXCEPTIONAL GIFTS FOR EXCEPTIONAL PEOPLE
DISCOVER MORE AT WWW.ST-DUPONT.COM
THE DUBAI MALL, DUBAI 04 388 2581 I THE GALLERIA, ABU DHABI 02 412 4105 @STDupontArabia
IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph
TOP GUN Ceratanium
RECLAIMING Invention is not the only approach to innovation. Finding applications for known materials can also be equally successful. By way of example, the Kolsterising (hardening) technology that Ferdinand Berthoud uses for the case of its Chronomètre FB 1R.6 consists in modifying 20 microns of the metal’s surface by enriching it with nitrogen and carbon via a diffusion process – thereby making it more resistant to both shocks and abrasion. IWC Ceratanium is a specific titanium alloy of which the surface layers have been transformed into ultra-hard ceramic. These applications become especially fascinating when it comes to such a versatile material as carbon. Depending on how its atoms are arranged, the latter can indeed have radically different characteristics, and TAG Heuer has found a new outlet for this essential building block of organic of life. Stemming from the brand’s fundamental research and manufactured in-house, the hairspring of the Isograph regulating system is made entirely and exclusively of carbon. Its exclu-
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
PAUL O’NEIL Chief Editor of WorldTempus.com
HUBLOT Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon
W
e have taken a closer look at the new materials highlighted in David’s article on WorldTempus. Scan the QR code below
and you will find a selection of our articles on carbonfiber composites, including a detailed explanation of TAG Heuer’s ground-breaking new carbon-fiber hairspring and a report on innovation in the techniques for producing carbon-fiber composites. The carbon-fiber watches of the future may well be knitted, rather than layered and baked. And this is just to consider one innovative material among many others, as watchmakers continue to push the boundaries in their search for new case materials. I’ve recently seen a watch case and dial made from parts of a whisky barrel. Sláinte, as they say in Scotland !
sive hexagonal structure guarantees perfect shape memory, exceptional lightness and plasticity that combine to provide excellent impact resistance. It is also naturally insensitive to magnetism and temperature variations. Finally, its production method allows total freedom in the creation of shapes, resulting in a unique geometry that facilitates concentric development of the hairspring, a major condition for its operating precision.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 69
INTEVIEW BRICE LECHEVALIER
Jacob Arabo Founder and CEO Jacob & Co.
Stephan Winkelmann CEO Bugatti
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“There are many similarities between our two fields.”
This is your first collaboration with a car brand, how did you come to choose Bugatti ? Jacob Arabo : Since I was a kid I have loved cars ; I like to smell the leather, hear their engines, touch their coachwork. For about ten years, I had been wondering which car manufacturer we could choose to partner with, because there are many similarities between our two worlds. For example, we also spend a lot of time and resources on R&D for movements, and it takes us years to design and launch a new model. It turned out that Bugatti was likewise looking for a watchmaking partner, and a common acquaintance introduced us. It was a fantastic opportunity because for me Bugatti represents the top of the automotive pyramid. Everything then happened very quickly because I got along well with Stephan and we immediately shared a common vision. Stephan Winkelmann : That’s also what I liked about Jacob & Co. When considering a partnership, it’s important to be on the same wavelength and to move at the same speed. As Bugatti is celebrating its 110th anniversary this year and we are planning many events, it seemed essential to us to involve our watchmaking partner in this commemoration. It turned out that Jacob was prepared to shift into high gear in order to meet our deadlines. Moreover, design, quality as well as craftsmanship also matter a lot to us and these are qualities we greatly appreciated at Jacob & Co. How did you define and create the products within such a short timeframe ? Jacob Arabo : We had actually been working for a year on a new Epic X case entirely forged in carbon, including the reverse side, and decided to dedicate it exclusively to the Bugatti line. We are therefore offering a limited series of 110 Bugatti Epic X carbon chronographs in Bugatti’s colors, fitted with a strap reminiscent of the famous Chiron rear hood. Their designers contributed to the project. In parallel, we have customized our Twin Turbo Furious double triple-axis tourbillon with Bugatti’s own design elements. Moreover, the Chiron’s engine also uses a two-stage sequential turbocharging system. This haute horlogerie model launched at Baselworld 2018 is so complex that we only produce two per month, and this year we are devoting the entire production of this model to the Bugatti version. Stephan Winkelmann : The two limited series are presented at our head office and during our events, giving priority access to our customers. From a personal standpoint, I mostly collect chronographs, especially those with a technical and innovative look, so I am delighted with this first collaboration !
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“We also invest a great deal in R&D, and it takes years to launch a new model.”
You build the most expensive cars in the world and your customers can afford anything they want, so why do you need a watchmaker partner ? Stephan Winkelmann : It’s above all about Bugatti, not diluting the
and create world firsts, not just generate income – and Bugatti is
brand image, and the most important thing is that all our cus-
the perfect choice.
tomers love watches and collect them. We bring them exclusivity with Jacob & Co. We had to find a top-of-the-range brand, relevant
On your new Opera Godfather model, a miniaturized godfather
in terms of image and values as well as open-minded, and the
appears in his armchair in the middle of the movement ; would
brand’s desire to create a watch exclusively for Bugatti was bound
you for example consider introducing a mini-Bugatti around the
to satisfy our clients. Especially since carbon, high-tech materials
tourbillon carriage ?
and innovation are very important to us, being granted exclusive
Jacob Arabo : Anything is possible, I love challenges ! But since I only
rights to their first carbon chronograph is a real advantage.
present reliable finalized models and not prototypes, I’ll see you in two years’ time at Baselworld.
Which products are expected in the longer term ? Jacob Arabo : We are indeed also working on a longer-term basis and
Do you plan to organize joint events ?
we have a joint program for the coming years, especially in the
Stephan Winkelmann : We have several types of happenings, always
field of design. When visiting their factory, I came with a whole
for the benefit of customers and with a view to celebrating along-
team, so that they could immerse themselves in the atmosphere,
side them. Jacob & Co. is welcome to attend all our events, of
the Bugatti way of working right down to the smallest details –
which there will be many within the context of the 110th anniver-
and then come back with the most creative possible idea. The next
sary celebrations !
watch must be as special as the car, both aesthetically and techni-
Jacob Arabo : We will participate in all Bugatti events, and I hope
cally. I launch new projects every year and I love the development
they will also join in with ours.
side of the business ; we have to bring something new to this field
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
LE CIRQUE: The greatest culinary show on earth. A timeless classic originating from New York, experience Le Cirque's famed French cuisine, with a twist of Italian flair, at the sleek and elevated setting of Dubai.
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FOCUS
ANONIMO
MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON
Nautilo Vintage Blue CASE : steel, blue ceramic bezel DIAMETER : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Sellita Caliber SW200-1,
38h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : glacier blue, hands and hour-markers enhanced with SuperLumiNova® CASEBACK : sapphire crystal WATER RESISTANCE : 200m BRACELET : steel
Deep down, vintage reigns supreme
Almost 15 years after the first edition of the famous diver’s watch designed by naval engineer Dino Zei, Anonimo reinterprets this model with its strong character in a Nautilo Vintage Blue version. A glacier blue dial for a chic touch, a robust steel case for a sporty look and a unique metal bracelet for comfort in all circumstances : the Nautilo Vintage Blue asserts its style perfectly geared up to explore the depths, down to 200 meters, without sacrificing elegance on the altar of sturdiness. The brand’s signature aesthetic is still there, embodied by a cushion-shaped case and distinctive double markers appearing at 12, 4 and 8 o’clock on the blue dial, which contrasts with the blue ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel. This beautiful composition is enhanced with luminescent indications to ensure peerless readability in the darkness of the seabed. Behind the scenes beats a Sellita self-winding movement with a 38-hour power reserve, the epitome of Swiss precision featuring an Anonimo-customized oscillating weight paying tribute to the Italian sporting chic lifestyle.
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FOCUS
CHOPARD
MICHÈLE BRUNNER
Mille Miglia GTS Power Control CASE : stainless steel, 18K rose gold crown SIZE : 43mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Chopard Caliber
01.08-C, 28,800 vph, 60h power reserve, COSC-certified FUNCTIONS : hour, minutes, seconds, date, power-reserve display DIAL : gray, satin-brushd, gilded hands and hourmarkers, enhanced with Super-LumiNova® STRAP : cognac-colored leather 500-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
A thousand and one
passions
The Mille Miglia Rally is a story of longevity fuelled by passion : that of the rally itself, founded in 1927, interrupted thirty years later and resumed in 1977 ; and that of Chopard, which has been its main partner since 1988. Among the classic car enthusiasts who bring life to this race, considered the most beautiful in the world, Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele does far more than merely represent the brand. He hascompeted about 30 times, choosing his co-drivers from among his friends or family, and this year his daughter Caroline-Marie assisted him in driving his Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Gullwing. As usual, the 2019 automotive adventure continues with a new watch, the Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition, but Chopard is also unveiling three other models, including the Mille Miglia GTS Power Control in steel and rose gold. Its affiliation with the “gentleman driver” spirit and the Italian rally can be seen in the date window bearing the Mille Miglia logo, in the power reserve indicator shaped like a fuel gauge, as well as in the 1960s Dunlop tire-tread profile embossed on the rubber lining of the strap. Any beautiful bodywork deserves to have a high-performance engine on board, and behind the transparent back engraved with the inscription “Brescia-RomeBrescia” – the rally route – beats a COSC-certified in-house caliber.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 75
Focus
DE BETHUNE
DAVID CHOKRON
De Bethune DB28 GS Grand Bleu CASE : zirconium, transparent sapphire crystal
and back, unidirectional titanium bezel, waterresistant to 105m SIZE : 44mm in diameter, 12.8mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical hand-wound Caliber DB2080, five-day power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, power-reserve indicator, dynamo-lighted dial DIAL : titanium with an open design featuring skeletonized blued titanium hands STRAP : one canvas on calf leather strap ; and another in natural rubber, fitted with a brushed titanium folding clasp
Diving
into light-filled waters De Bethune is no newcomer to this field. In 2015, the small luxury watch brand had already launched a model named DB28 GS standing for Grand Sport. For 2019, it is taking the concept in a more specialized direction, since the Grand Bleu is specifically made for diving. It has all the characteristics required by the ISO 6425 norm governing the category. It is water-resistant to 105 meters and features a unidirectional rotating bezel as well as an operating indicator. De Bethune has enriched this model in its own inimitable way. First of all, with a system lighting up the bezel and hour-markers with a series of four LED bulbs. They are powered by a dynamo, which generates an electric current from the energy stored in the barrels. This light is complemented by the use of an exclusive dark blue Super-LumiNova®, developed in cooperation with luminescent object specialist Black Badger. Made of zirconium, an extremely rare metal, the DB28 GS Grand Bleu has an ultra-technical appearance that reflects its nature, since the balance-wheel, shock-absorbers, balance-spring, floating lugs and many other operating details are unique and brand-specific. As is the level of its finishing, offering a full immersion into a world of horological happiness.
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Focus GRAFF
MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON
GyroGraff Great Wall of China CASE : pink gold, mosaic-style invisible setting with
baguette-cut diamonds (11.49cts) DIAMETER : 48mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, double-axis tourbillon, threedimensional moon phases, 65h power-reserve indicator DIAL : aventurine, engraved gold, miniature painting, diamonds WATER RESISTANCE : 30m STRAP : alligator leather
Precious wall The Great Wall of China is an invaluable architectural treasure. Monumental in size and titanic in its power of fascination, this 6,000km long route is now a spectacular piece of watchmaking and jewelry created by the Graff artisans. The GyroGraff Great Wall of China is first and foremost a visual journey to the borders of preciousness, where rare knowhow meets ancestral techniques. Hand-engraved in gold, the Great Wall stands out against an aventurine background like a starry sky. Each stone is meticulously patinated in ink while the paving stones are represented by a subtle invisible setting of baguette-cut diamonds. The forest is miniature-painted on a finely hammered gold base : a masterpiece just as dazzling as the mechanism beating inside. Powered by a manual-winding caliber, this one-of-a-kind timepiece offers a captivating sight with the rotation of its hand-engraved three-dimensional moon phases as well as the perpetual rotations of its two-axis tourbillon. A show in perpetual motion, surrounded – as one would expect from Graff – by a mosaic-style invisible setting composed of baguette-cut diamonds.
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Focus
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
DAVID CHOKRON
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel CASE : white gold, transparent sapphire crystal and back,
water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 43mm in diameter, 14mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical hand-wound Caliber 184, 50-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, Gyrotourbillon, Westminster minute repeater chiming on blued gongs, bidirectional perpetual calendar with year indication DIAL : Grand Feu enamel, applied hour-markers and blued Dauphine-type hands STRAP : double-sided blue alligator leather with white gold folding clasp 18-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
Vast To describe Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest luxury watch, one need only begin by listing its capacities, details and mechanical subtleties. The result is an inventory of the very best Grand Complications have to offer. The Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel is indeed a striking timepiece in every sense of the term. Long since accustomed to creating superlative watches, Jaeger-LeCoultre had temporarily set aside this aspect of its expertise. The brand is now back with what is certainly the most accomplished, complex and wearable piece in this extreme category that we have seen in a long time. Four kinked blued gongs to sound the time on demand to the tune of Westminster Abbey’s famous Big Ben chime. A compact, new-generation perpetual calendar including a year indication. A multi-axis tourbillon 15% smaller than the previous four, coupled with a remontoire. Confining itself to a 43mm diameter and 14mm thickness is no mean feat for this machine containing 1,050 components, and whose back will thrill lovers of details and finishes.
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Focus
JAQUET DROZ
DAVID CHOKRON
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Chronograph CASE : red gold, transparent sapphire crystal and
caseback, water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 43mm in diameter MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Caliber 26M5R, 40h power reserve, 18K red gold rotor FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, retrograde date, single-pusher chronograph DIAL : cream-colored Grand Feu enamel STRAP : alligator leather with red gold folding clasp 88-PIECE LIMITED EDITION
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Chronograph CASE : steel, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback,
water-resistant to 30m SIZE : 43mm in diameter MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Caliber 26M5R, 40h power reserve, 18K red gold rotor FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, retrograde date, single-pusher chronograph, all offset by 30 degrees DIAL : blue, hand-sandblasted, applied figure eight-shaped ring satin-brushed by hand STRAP : alligator leather with steel folding clasp
However hard one may search for an equivalent, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Chronograph is a completely unique watch. This is an ambitious statement, which can only be made on very rare occasions, yet the originality of this 43 mm model, its complication and above all its layout is blindingly obvious. It features the characteristic layout of Grande Seconde models, with hours and minutes occupying the upper part of Jaquet Droz’s beloved large figure eight motif, which structures the dial. Complications appear in the lower, wider section. In this case, the caliber exclusive to this watch drives a single-pusher chronograph and a date. However, since the latter display is generally large in Jaquet Droz models and the lower eight is so wide that it encroaches on the dial center, Jaquet Droz had to make this a retrograde date sweeping over a 306-degree angle. There are in fact two co-existent versions. The red gold watches feature a Grand Feu enamel dial with an upright figure eight, while on the steel versions the latter is offset 30 degrees along with the crown. The steel Grande Seconde Chronograph in steel do indeed have a symmetrical appearance, but along the 1 o’clock – 7 o’clock axis. A truly unparalleled slanting visual equilibrium.
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Focus
LOUIS VUITTON
CLOÉ MUGNY
Tambour Monogram / Tambour Damier Graphite CASE : stainless steel, water-resistant to 100m SIZE : 28mm, 34mm, 39.5mm / 41.5mm MOVEMENT : quartz FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds DIAL : textured
Monogram pattern / textured Damier Graphite pattern STRAP : Monogram-patterned canvas / Damier Graphite-patterned canvas, equipped with patented interchangeability system
Beating the Tambour It was with the Tambour watch that Louis Vuitton took its first steps in the world of horology back in 2002. This timepiece with its uniquely shaped case has given rise to a whole collection, ranging from three-hand quartz models to Grand Complications. This new Tambour duo is intended more for fans of powerful design than for watchmaking purists drawn to technical content. The dial topping the quartz movement bears motifs embodying the distinctive values of the Maison. The ladies’ version has a textured dial adorned with the Monogram canvas motif and comes in three sizes to fit all wrists, while the 41.5mm men’s version features a textured rice-grain patterned dial evoking the checked Damier Graphite canvas. These motifs are swept over by hours and minutes hands filled with Super-LumiNovaTM, as well as a thin seconds hand lending a radiantly colorful touch. The Tambour Monogram is yellow, whereas the Tambour Damier Graphite is light blue. The watch comes with a strap patterned to match the dial, but those who so wish will have plenty of opportunities to add their own personal touch, thanks to the ingenious Louis Vuitton-patented interchangeability system.
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Focus
MAURICE LACROIX
MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON
Aikon Automatic CASE : steel DIAMETER : 39mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, 38h
power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : blue with Clous de Paris hobnail guilloché motif BACK : sapphire crystal WATER-RESISTANT : 200m BRACELET : steel
Simply classic Are classical and contemporary two conflicting concepts ? Perhaps not really in light of the new Aikon Automatic, which stylishly reconciles the best of both worlds. A little more than two years after the launch of the Aikon Quartz, a modern version of the famous Calypso watch launched by Maurice Lacroix in the 1990s, the Aikon is now reinventing itself in an automatic version based on a simple yet detail-rich aesthetic characteristic of timeless watches. As far as its look is concerned, the Aikon Automatic features a steel case with a reasonable 39mm diameter alternating between curves and sharp angles that brand enthusiasts will immediately recognize thanks to the six rider-tabs adorning the bezel. For perfect wearer comfort, the case flows smoothly into a steel bracelet equipped with the Easy Change system. The blue dial also features the line’s distinctive aesthetic codes expressed through a a fine Clous de Paris hobnail guilloché pattern. A beautiful composition echoed by the refined finishes of the automatic movement, notably the oscillating weight adorned with vertical Côtes de Genève.
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RATEL FADI JAMIL
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Ratel White Chrono Crafted for a bold and unique lifestyle Ratel White Chrono MOVEMENT: Automatic chronograph. Self winding
mechanism. Swiss made movement. 2 push-bottons hours, minutes. Small seconds. Stop second device. Chronograph 60 seconds Dragging counters 30 minutes and 12 hours. Date display. Corrector 28.800 vibrations per hour. 37 jewellspower. CASE: 42 mm, Solid stainless steel case. Mat brushed and polished finishing case. Silver bezel with 8 screws. DIAL: White dial with silver indexes. 3-eye chrono. Date at 6’ o’ clock. STRAP: 22 x 20 mm. Black italian leather strap with black couture. Engraved with RATEL logo butterfly buckle.
T
he WHITE CHRONO is a model from the chrono series of
the latest collection VI DEGREES. It has a sapphire glass
opening for movement and rotor visualisation on the case-
back. The glass is anti-refective and anti-scratching. On the back
there is always the reference, the serie number and the collection. On one side you can set the hours and minutes by pushing the 2-push buttons several times. It’s a 60 seconds, 30 minutes and 12 hours dragging counters.
RATEL has manufactured high-technical chronographs models during years like the WHITE CHRONO from this line. The serie features the design of an architectural chrono with 3-eye.
The movement is automatic and has a self-winding mechanism. The model is available in different case, dial and strap versions.
One of the most technical manager of RATEL created the model not only for sport purposes but also for outdoors activities.
This unique watch with a bold and modern design in a mat brushed and polished finishing case. The model is comfortable to
wear with its rubber strap and easy to adjust with its two pushers
and crown. It comes in a 42 mm case combined with 3 different steel versions. The crown show 2 different functions: operational and aesthetic.
The bezel frames a large round, three-dimensional dial with
unique luminous 3-eye chronos and indexes. The watch stands out
of the crowd in the night or during a show. The color of the bezel varies according to the reference and the bezel is always decorated by 8 screws.
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STORY OMEGA DAVID CHOKRON
Moonwatch the fascinating little stories behind a grand adventure
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Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary CASE : steel, transparent sapphire crystal and caseback,
water-resistant to 50m, bezel in Moonshine yellow gold with tachymeter scale SIZE : 42mm in diameter MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding Caliber 3861, Master Chronometer certified FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, two-counter chronograph DIAL : matt black with Moonshine gold hour-markers, laser-engraved small seconds BRACELET : steel, triple-link, delivered with additional black cork strap with Velcro fastening LIMITED SERIES OF 6,969
To celebrate the 50 anniversary of the first moon landing, Omega is presenting two limited editions of its Speedmaster Professional. An ideal excuse to look back at some of the anecdotes that shaped the destiny of the Moonwatch. th
T
here are few such well-known, recognizable and enduring watches. The one commonly known as Moonwatch is among the rare true legends of contemporary watch-
making. Officially named the Omega Speedmaster Professional, it has earned its reputation through its close, decisive and lasting association with the American space program. But in reality, this highly functional steel chronograph with a black dial and three counters, equipped with a Lemania manual-winding movement, was launched in 1957 and had nothing to do with the desire to rise above earthly gravity.
ANONYMOUS Without contacting the brand, NASA's equipment engineers acquired one of these chronographs directly from a retailer in Houston, the city hosting the heart of the US space program. They took the initiative of subjecting it to an incredibly difficult test program far exceeding the constraints that this watch and the others were designed to face. Shocks, vibrations, variations in temperature, pressure and in particular depressurization : the trials simulated the brutal conditions that the astronauts of the Apollo program were to experience – but on the scale of a small, entirely mechanical instrument. The rest is history : the Speedmaster Professional emerged victorious from the tests and only then was Omega contacted.
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Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Moonshine Gold CASE : yellow gold, Moonshine alloy, transparent sapphire crystal and
caseback, water-resistant to 50m, bezel in gold and burgundy ceramic with tachymeter scale SIZE : 42mm in diameter MOVEMENT : mechanical manualwinding Caliber 3861, Master Chronometer certified FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, two-counter chronograph DIAL : in Moonshine gold with Moonshine gold and onyx hour-markers BRACELET : in Moonshine gold, fivelink LIMITED SERIES OF 1,014
A SMALL STEP FOR MAN On July 16th 1969, Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin and Michael Col-
Like the original, it comes in a 1,014-piece limited series and
lins lifted off from Cape Canaveral aboard the Apollo 11 module
is modelled after a watch on show in the Omega Museum. The
atop a Saturn V rocket. Each wore a chronograph on their wrist,
latter had acquired it because the American President, Richard
over their hermetically sealed space suit, Four days later, on July
Nixon, had had to refuse the gift because it was too valuable. The
20 , Neil Armstrong took his first step on the moon, followed
astronauts, on the other hand, were entitled to keep theirs.
th
by Buzz Aldrin. This chronograph acquired its nickname after becoming the only watch flight qualified for all U.S. manned
ON THE LADDER
space missions. Fifty years on, to celebrate this association that
The second, on the other hand, clearly refers to the "first step".
was definitely not a marketing stunt, Omega is launching two
Issued in a run of 6,969, this chronograph is called Speedmaster
limited editions. Both have the kind of stories to tell that take us
Apollo 11 50th Anniversary. Its small seconds display, the space
back to this global event which united the entire planet behind its
generally used to customize Moonwatch special editions, depicts
television and radio sets.
Buzz Aldrin descending from his lunar module. Because in fact,
ON SHOW
86
when Neil Armstrong exited the spacecraft and took his first historic step, he was not wearing the watch which had remained on
The first one is called Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary
board to perform calculations, thus compensating for the failure
Moonshine Gold. Entirely made in yellow gold, an alloy named
of on-board equipment. It was thus Buzz Aldrin’s watch that was
Moonshine for its lunar pallor, it is an updated reissue of the
the first to come in contact with the lunar environment. The first
watch that Omega had created to celebrate the moon landing.
of a long series of outings far, far from Earth.
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TOURBILLON DAY FADI JAMIL
Breguet Celebrates Tourbillon Day June 26, 2019
On 7 Messidor Year IX – in other words, June 26, 1801 – master watchmaker Abraham!Louis Breguet patented a new kind of regulator: the tourbillon. Five years later, in 1806, the public turned out in large numbers to attend the National Exhibition of Industrial Products in Paris, where visitors were able to marvel at this incredible invention. As the custodian of one of the greatest creations in watchmaking history, House of Breguet invites fans, enthusiasts, and collectors to celebrate Tourbillon Day on June 26th. On this day, Breguet boutiques across the globe offer visitors the chance to discover its collections and learn more about this unique complication.
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THE ORIGINS OF THE TOURBILLON AbrahamLouis Breguet only sold 35 tourbillon watches in his lifetime. This confidential figure in itself hints at the extreme complexity involved in producing this unique mechanism. While patented in 1801, its development took no less than 10 years of experimentation and research in the years spanning from 1795 to 1805. At a time when timepieces were worn vertically in the waistcoat pocket, the master watchmaker devised a way of negating the effects of the earth’s attraction on the functioning of the oscillator and, on the basis of this, improving the chronometric accuracy of the movement. Then the idea came to him to incorporate the balance wheel and spring as well as the escapement (lever and escape wheel) in a mobile casing rotating on itself. AbrahamLouis Breguet devised the name tourbillon for this double rotation of the cage and its parts in reference to the
Arabic numerals, and blued hands – similar in appearance to the Master’s trademark pocket watches. The gold engineturned dial on the Classique Tourbillon ExtraPlat Automatique 5377 watch boldly plays with asymmetry to create a subtle and fascinating whole. Both models contain one of the finest selfwinding tourbillon movements in the world, with a thickness of just three millimeters. A figure that ties in perfectly with the 41 millimeter diameter of the rosegold or platinum case, with a maximum 7 millimeter thickness for the engineturned gold dial version and 7.45 millimeters for the enamel model. The thinness does not impede the decoration of the movement, with the bridge and barrel intricately engraved by hand. Its bidirectional platinum rotor is located on the periphery of the
longforgotten notion of a planetary system.
caliber and is also engineturned by hand at Breguet.
THE EXTRA!THIN AUTOMATIC TOURBILLON, SHEER ELEGANCE
THE EXTRA!THIN MOVEMENT COMPLICATION, BREGUET CALIBER 581
Fantastic in its design, captivating in its function, this invention has never ceased to command respect, right from when it was first presented to the current day. Because while it has remained true to its purpose, the tourbillon has flourished with the emergence of new technologies. The Classique Tourbillon ExtraPlat Automatique 5367 illustrates this point to perfection: this piece bears the hallmarks of Breguet’s cherished design characteristics, such
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as the grand feu enamel dial, an offcenter hours chapter with
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The movement’s finesse is achieved by recreating each of the main components. A feat also made possible through the use of special materials. The tourbillon’s entire architecture has been redesigned. The cage is driven from the side and not by a pinion, which has been removed. Originally devised by AbrahamLouis Breguet, this special solution does require an additional wheel to engage directly with the exterior of the cage, but is thinner as a result. The House of Breguet has also
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opted for an escapement angled at 90° and a wheel with 20
AbrahamLouis Breguet, who worked tirelessly to achieve the
teeth, this device is produced by no other manufacturer and
same level of thinness, it also formed the basis for the unique
enables the train to operate at a high frequency. The saving of
interpretation of a second complication: the equation of time.
weight thanks to the use of titanium in the mobile casing and
This shows the difference between mean time – civil hours and
silicon for the spiral and escape wheel enables a frequency of
minutes – and true solar time – solar hours and minutes.
4 hertz – an exceptional figure for a tourbillon and one that ensures remarkable chronometry.
EXTRA!THIN TOURBILLON PAIRED WITH THE EQUATION OF TIME
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The Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 model houses the same extrathin tourbillon, onto which the watchmakers grafted the kidneyshaped equation of time cam, mounted on a sapphire disk. This structure uses the tourbillon’s minute rotation to control the rotation of the cam over the
Ultralightweight – the cage weighs no more than 0.290 grams
course of one year. A feelerspindle sends this information to
in total – and is equipped with an outstanding 80hour power
a running solar hand that is separate from the minute hand.
reserve, this latestgeneration 581 caliber is not an end in
Alongside its running equation of time, the complexity of this
itself. A true masterpiece of miniaturization and a tribute to
grand complication is enhanced by a perpetual calendar.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
LIGHTNESS AND TRANSPARENCY OF THE SKELETON TOURBILLON In 2019, for its new Classique Tourbillon ExtraPlat Squelette 5395, Breguet opted for an extrathin 581 caliber threemillimeter skeleton for this tourbillon movement. An undertaking that is as much technical as it is artistic, with an emphasis on craftsmanship. The House of Breguet has removed almost 50 per cent of the material from this movement, without compromising on anything. The skeleton design, with an 18karat gold caliber that literally plays with the limits of what is possible, recalls in passing that watchmakers at Breguet practice
gold alloy. Despite its complexity in the manufacturing and assembly process, gold offers many technical advantages as it is hardenable, thus more resistant for a skeleton movement, extremely durable and perfectly suited for manual finishing. Handcrafted engraving, engineturning, and anglage add to this to create something truly outstanding. Classic or avant!garde, over the centuries the tourbillon has developed in line with scientific progress. Above all, it has benefited from the passion and mastery of the House of Breguet, which today perpetuates an ancestral invention with an exciting and evolving future...
true craftsmanship. For this model in particular, Breguet chose to make the movement plate and bridges out of an 18carat
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SAGA TAG HEUER MARIE DE PIMODAN-BUGNON
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The Autavia is back on track
From 1962 to 1985, Autavia accompanied the finest hours of motor racing. TAG Heuer is now relaunching this high-performance champion by introducing a complete dedicated collection distinguished by sleek design and a powerful ‘engine’ driven by the new carbon composite hairspring developed by the TAG Heuer Institute.
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I
ts name evokes an entire era. The effervescence of the paddocks in the early 1960s, the palpable excitement at the start of rallies, the enthusiasm of the drivers, the exhilara-
tion of speed, the roaring engines and the smell of fuel… Racing, sporting performance, winning : therein lies the very raison d’être of the historical Autavia. Before being a watch that was acclaimed by the world’s best drivers, the Autavia appeared on racing car dashboard and aircraft instrument panels from 1933 to 1957, hence the singular name combining the terms ‘automobile’ and ‘aviation’. As Jack Heuer recalls in his autobiography titled The Times of my Life. “In 1958, during my first year at Heuer, I participated in two Swiss car rallies. In the first rally I was driving and it had been a good experience for me and in the second one I took over the role of codriver, partly because I was quite good at map-reading thanks to my time in the scouts. We were doing fine until, close to the finish, I misread the dial of the Heuer 12-hour ‘Autavia’ dashboard stopwatch and the result was that our team came in third place instead of first. This error infuriated me.” Back at the factory, Jack Heuer rushed to start work on a new Autavia dashboard clock, before turning it into a wrist chronograph in 1962, equipped with a rotating bezel and large luminescent numerals to best meet drivers’ needs. “Looking back, I can say that the Autavia chronograph was the first wristwatch I personally created for the company.”
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Immediately recognizable and perfectly readable in all situations, the Autavia quickly became a must-have for racing drivers until its production was discontinued in 1985. However, collectors have never forgotten it and nor has TAG Heuer which, after a limited-edition return of the model worn by Jochen Rindt in 1966, is now reviving the legend of the Autavia by devoting a complete collection to it.
A VINTAGE AESTHETIC Combining functionality with a strong sporty look, all the attributes that appealed to racing enthusiasts in the 1960s are reflected in the seven new references of the Autavia collection. They also feature an aura of contemporary elegance with a retro twist, ensuring they are perfect for wearing in all circumstances. The first distinctive feature is a 42mm round steel or bronze case extended by beveled lugs similar to those of the historical models. The second asset is a bidirectional rotating bezel adorned with a 60-minute scale and available in steel or black, and blue or brown ceramic for the bronze versions. As far as the dial is concerned, legibility is ensured even when night falls, thanks to the large numerals and hands adorned with Super-LumiNovaTM, colorfully enhanced with a beautiful palette of smoky black, gray, blue, brown or green shades. This resolutely vintage model is fitted with an interchangeable light or dark brown calf leather strap on the steel versions, and khaki or brown for the bronze models.
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Autavia CASE : stainless steel, ceramic bidirectional rotating bezel DIAMETER : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding,
Calibre 5 Isograph, 38h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date CASEBACK : engraved WATER RESISTANCE : 100m STRAP : calfskin
BACK TO THE FUTURE While the Autavia is firmly rooted in the history of TAG Heuer, it is also the modern-day heroine of a technological epic that is charting a course for the future. At its heart is the famous automatic Calibre 5 equipped with a brand-new carbon composite hairspring. The dial bears the inscription ‘Isograph’, from the Greek iso which means ‘equal’, in reference to the stable and regular movement of the component, enabling the new Autavia models to mark off time with formidable efficiency. This revolutionary hairspring was developed by the TAG Heuer Institute based in La Chaux-de-Fonds. On its premises, one should not expect to meet watchmakers in white coats toiling patiently at the workbench. Experienced mathematicians, outstanding physicists, engineers : this new laboratory directed by Guy Sémon is composed exclusively of international scientists whose combined skills aim to broaden the horizons of mechanical watchmaking through technological innovation. As Sémon explains : “The Institute works mainly in two areas. The first takes an interest in solid-state physics through research on amorphous and crystalline alloys. The second deals with flexible mechanisms and the physics of nanoparticles.”
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Autavia CASE : stainless steel, stainless steel
bidirectional rotating bezel DIAMETER : 42mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, Caliber 5 Isograph, 38h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date CASEBACK : engraved WATER RESISTANCE : 100m STRAP : calfskin
When asked why TAG Heuer decides to tackle the hairspring, the regulating organ that governs the precision of the watch, Sémon responds : “All brands have been using the same technology since Christian Huygens invented it in 1675. A quick look at the market shows that the hairspring is currently available in metal – either elinvar or silicon – and that these two materials have flaws : sensitivity to magnetism and gravity for elinvar, and low impact resistance in the case of silicon. Within the Institute, we have explored new ways to modify and improve this very ancient mechanism, including through the development of a new material that TAG Heuer is currently the only brand to use but which we hope to extend to other applications very soon.”
CHEMICAL FORMULA The development of this new type of hairspring required several years of research. “In concrete terms, one must imagine an atomic mixture of two allotropes of carbon : an amorphous carbon on the one hand, and a graphene on the other. Produced at very high temperatures from natural gas, our carbon composite is extremely homogeneous and has all the desired characteristics,” says Sémon about the secret formula concocted by materials experts using machines specially designed for the production of the carbon hairspring, including a chemical reactor developed by the TAG Heuer Institute and manufactured in the United States. “We have in our lab the only two machines existing in the world capable of producing our unique carbon hairspring”, he adds.
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TARGETING PRECISION The results are extremely promising. This ultra-light and low-density hairspring is first of all insensitive to gravity and impacts, as shown by the resistance tests carried out by the laboratory. When a 5000g/1m drop occurs on a hard surface, metal hairsprings bend and silicon hairsprings break, while carbon composite hairsprings remain intact. This new hairspring also ensures perfectly concentric oscillations thanks to its geometry. In addition, it is produced with a pre-attached collet, thus avoiding the need for complex assembly work in fitting the hairspring onto the balance-wheel, which is a further source of inaccuracies. The carbon composite hairspring is also totally nonmagnetic, without forgetting its perfect aeroelasticity and optimal thermal behavior. All these are important assets in ensuring that the Autavia achieves exemplary precision and chronometer certification. Because for its return to the track, this queen of racing circuits is still all about performance. With such a traveling companion, it is likely that Jack Heuer could have reached the highest step on the podium. GUY SEMON, CEO of the TAG Heuer Institute
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PORTFOLIO BUCHERER BLUE EDITIONS BRICE LECHEVALIER
W
hen Europe’s biggest retailer offers its partner brands a chance to create a watch line together, this collaboration gives rise to limited Blue Editions, exclusively available from Bucherer stores. We have selected several on the Air
– Land – Sea theme, suitable for every taste and any budget.
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ORIS
DIVERS SIXTY-FIVE CHRONOGRAPH BUCHERER BLUE EDITIONS
BREGUET MARINE 5517 BUCHERER BLUE EDITIONS
H. MOSER & CIE. HERITAGE BUCHERER BLUE EDITIONS
IWC PORTUGIESER CHRONOGRAPH CLASSIC BUCHERER BLUE EDITIONS
BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS BATHYSCAPHE BUCHERER BLUE EDITIONS
TAG HEUER FORMULA 1 BLUE BUCHERER BLUE EDITIONS
TUDOR BLACK BAY BRONZE BUCHERER BLUE EDITIONS
SCENTS FADI JAMIL
Gucci Guilty Cologne From the declaration of self-expression and fearlessness embodied in the idea of #ForeverGuilty, the Gucci Guilty fragrance story opens a new men’s chapter. A modern reinterpretation of a classic cologne - a centuries-old Italian scent, Gucci Guilty Cologne is created with a contemporary dry down featuring noble woods notes and powerful citruses. THE COLOGNE Part of Italian scent making history, cologne was first invented
Violet. Alberto Morillas unveils Gucci Guilty Cologne’s enigmatic
in the XVII century by Jean Paul Feminis, an Italian perfumer
newness in the cologne’s dry down. Sensual noble woods notes
living in Germany who re-blended an original fragrance created
diffuse slowly on the skin, developing with Patchouli leaves and
by Florentine monks, adding Italian neroli essential oil, bergamot
the warmth of Cedarwood with crystalline White Musks.
and orange. The formula was passed onto his work assistant JeanAntoine Farina who named the scent: Cologne, in honour of the city where he and Jean Paul Feminis used to live.
THE CAMPAIGN Jared Leto returns to star in Gucci Guilty Cologne’s campaign.
A new rendition of a traditional Italian cologne blend ideated
Captured in a quintessential American setting, photographer Glen
by Alessandro Michele, Gucci Guilty Cologne features an intense
Luchford shows the Academy Award-winning actor and musician
aromatic personality with an unexpected dry down, conveyed
reclining in a retro beauty salon. Shot amongst vintage objects
through sensual woods notes. Master perfumer Alberto Morillas
inside the parlour—hair curlers and pins—a still shot of the bottle
modernized the freshness of a traditional cologne by balancing
shows the scent’s distinct pale green color.
natural aromatics with the standout vibrancy of Italian citruses. In the top notes, Bergamot sourced from Calabria adds a luminous layer to inherently masculine Rosemary and Juniper Berries Essences. The Mediterranean olfactory narrative continues with an
THE BOTTLE Reprising the same slender, elegant silhouette of the Gucci Guilty Pour Homme bottle, the design’s heavy glass is left transparent to celebrate the light green tinted scent. The bottle
intense heart of Spanish Cypress Essence, its heady resinous tones
is topped with a silver cap and is packaged in a matching green
uplifted with elegant floral notes including Heliotropine and
outer carton printed with a silver interlocking G.
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Le Richemond Geneva
DISCOVER A LAKESIDE ESCAPE A BREATH OF SWISS FRESH AIR AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE ALPS BREATHTAKING VIEWS ON THE JET D’EAU AND THE MONT BLANC FRENCH SEASONAL CUISINE AT LE JARDIN RESTAURANT LE SPA BY SISLEY & FITNESS CELEBRATION OF MEMORABLE EVENTS
Jardin Brunswick | 1201 Geneva | Switzerland lerichemond.com
#MYRichemond
BOSS BOTTLED OUD AROMATIC AND SAFFRON:
The New Enticing Fragrances Powerfully opulent. Symbolic. Authoritative. Introducing BOSS BOTTLED Oud Aromatic and Saffron, two new scents exclusive to the Middle East. Crafted by master perfumer Annick Menardo, the fragrances are a true blend of craftsmanship, both using natural Oud; the rich, mysterious and highly prized Middle Eastern ingredient often described as ‘black gold’. THE MAN OF TODAY A combination between heritage and modernity. True to his
Housed in a wood-green flacon designed to embody the charisma
roots but looking towards his future. The Man of Today cherishes
of the person who wears it, a gold metal topper brings on a
his traditions but embraces the gifts of technology and the
sophisticated final touch.
modern world. Well-connected within his social circle, he wants to find the perfect balance between modernity and tradition, technology and craftsmanship, real and virtual life.
NEW – BOSS BOTTLED OUD SAFFRON BOSS BOTTLED Oud Saffron is a rich, warm fragrance that offers a spicy take on BOSS BOTTLED Oud. With a spicy-floral accord of
THE CAMPAIGN The new BOSS BOTTLED Oud Aromatic and Saffron are revealed
saffron and rose, it unfolds harmoniously on the Man of Today’s skin, a gentle reminder to stand his ground with integrity.
in a video directed by Thibault Jouvent. The preciously crafted
Combined with silky suede notes and opulent oud, the dry down
essences are mirrored in the creation of a unique artwork by
offers a comforting yet firm embrace. The bottle’s deep red shines
calligraphist Vincent Abadie Hafez, who re-creates the BOSS
together with the elegant gold metal topper.
BOTTLED Man Of Today manifesto in Arabic. BOSS BOTTLED OUD NEW – BOSS BOTTLED OUD AROMATIC BOSS BOTTLED Oud Aromatic is a masculine and strong
Introduced in 2015, BOSS BOTTLED Oud is a distinctive and assertive male fragrance. The epitome of modern masculinity, the
interpretation of the luxurious BOSS BOTTLED Oud fragrance.
scent builds on the success of the classic and much-loved BOSS
Luscious notes of orange blossom balance for the resinous and
Bottled fragrance. Refreshing top notes of citrus and apple cut
woody myrrh, coming together with soft and balsamic notes of
through the spicy-floral heart notes of clove and rockrose, as the
white honey. Incense provides the scent with an exotic allure,
warm and musky oud and sandalwood at the base contribute to
while oud creates the dark, luxurious character that lingers.
the scent’s rounded, rich harmony.
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Collection Medici en résine acrylique, aspect bois, attributs en palladium. Le stylo à plume Oversize est équipé du système Power Filler. Le stylo à plume Medium est équipé du système à Converter. Le Medici est également disponible en Roller, Bille et Mine. www.visconti.it
JET-SET AUTO FADI JAMIL
Rolls-Royce
Unveils Wraith Eagle VIII Collection Rolls-Royce Motor Cars unveiled its latest Collection Car,
engines - or their good fortune”, commented Sir Winston
Wraith Eagle VIII, on the shores of Lake Como at this year’s
Churchill, following the perilous journey that brought
Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, 24-26 May. Created by the
unfathomable advancement to 20th century society.
Bespoke Collective at the House of Rolls-Royce, a Collection of
Alcock and Brown established a legend and gained a place
just 50 Wraith Eagle VIII motor cars will tell the epic tale of one
alongside Sir Donald Campbell in the most select club in
of the most pivotal moments of the 20th century.
the world; those who push beyond previous conceptions of
Captain John Alcock and Lieutenant Arthur Brown braved
human endeavour to achieve seemingly impossible records
uncharted skies to make the first non-stop transatlantic
on land, water and now, air. Their one binding characteristic?
flight in June, 1919. Contemporaries of Sir Henry Royce, Alcock
Rolls-Royce power.
and Brown flew non-stop from St. John’s, Newfoundland to
The duo suffered every conceivable challenge an aviator
Clifden, Ireland in a modified First World War Vickers Vimy
could face. The Rolls-Royce Eagle VIII engines were the only
bomber aircraft. The bi-plane was powered by twin 20.3
components that proved indestructible. The engines propelled
litre, 350 bhp, Rolls-Royce Eagle VIII engines. It is from this
the aerial voyage at previously unimagined speeds, averaging
remarkable engine that this Collection takes its name. Rolls-
115 mph. Their peril cannot be underestimated. Their radio and
Royce marks the 100 year anniversary of this feat with a highly
navigation instruments failed almost immediately, leaving the
contemporary Collection that speaks to today’s adventurers,
pilots flying unaided at night through dense cloud and freezing
whilst honouring those who changed the course of history.
fog for many hours, sometimes upside down. Eventually they
“I do not know what we should most admire - their audacity, determination, skill, science, their aeroplane, their Rolls-Royce
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emerged from the cloud and using Brown’s extraordinary skill as a navigator, flew by the stars to the coast of Ireland.
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The exterior of the Wraith Eagle VIII Collection Car is evocative of Alcock and Brown’s compelling night time adventure. Swathed in Gunmetal with a Selby Grey upper
Below, the brass-stitched quilted sides of the centre tunnel provide a direct nod to the V12 engined Vickers Vimy. The clock of a Rolls-Royce is frequently viewed as jewellery,
two-tone, the colours are separated by a brass feature line,
with many patrons choosing this canvas to tell the story of
a hint at the detailing that lies within. The black grille vanes
their motor car in miniature. Wraith Eagle VIII is no exception.
draw immediate reference to the Rolls-Royce Eagle VIII engine
Our intrepid pioneers recounted that their instrument panel
cowling on the Vickers Vimy aircraft, the wheels are part
was frozen from the high altitude and the poor conditions,
polished with a translucent shadow finish.
referring to the only illumination coming from the green
Within, the finely executed interior mirrors the exterior hue.
glow of the control panel lighting and the burst of flame from
Selby Grey and black leather are accented by brass, redolent of
the starboard engine. In homage to this, the Rolls-Royce
the brass sextant so integral to the success of the transatlantic
Bespoke Collective has masterfully fabricated a clock with
journey. Executed in a contemporary fashion, the material
an iced background effect which glows a faint green in night
populates key areas throughout the cockpit of the Collection.
time driving conditions. The red hour hand sits atop compass
Brass speaker covers depict the estimated flight distance of
inspired lines on the clock’s fascia, whilst the landing location
1,880 miles and ‘RR’ monograms are embroidered in brass
coordinates are engraved below.
coloured thread onto headrests. A flash of brass complements
Perhaps the most alluring feature of the Collection is the
the navigator door paniers, whilst the door of the driver
extraordinary unique starlight headliner. 1,183 starlight fibres
includes a brass plaque with Churchill’s quote commending
show the celestial arrangement at the time of the flight in
the duo’s remarkable achievements.
1919, the flight path and constellations are embroidered in
Inspired by the night time flight of our intrepid heroes, the
brass thread, whilst the exact moment the pair left the cloud
fascia represents a modern-day abstract interpretation of
to navigate by the stars is indicated by a red fibre optic light.
the view the pair would have enjoyed as finally, their craft
Clouds are embroidered and a plaque reading, “The celestial
cleared the thick fog and cloud. In a fusion of contemporary
arrangement at the halfway point 00:17am June 15th 1919, 50”
and traditional practises, Smoked Eucalyptus wood is vacuum
07’ Latitude North – 31” Longitude West” shows the half-way
metalized in gold before being inlaid with silver and copper,
point of the momentous journey.
to depict the rich detail seen in night time images of the Earth
Just 50 of these highly collectable motor cars will be
from above. The scene extends to the centre console providing
created for discerning collectors at the Home of Rolls-Royce
both an emotive and immersive experience for today’s
in Goodwood, West Sussex – a Centre of Global Luxury
occupants – the cockpit is in perspective with the headliner.
Manufacturing Excellence.
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JET-SET FADI JAMIL
Swiss Luxury Apartments A place to live and work
T
he exclusive, fully air-conditioned Swiss Luxury Apartments are housed in a historical building in the centre of Geneva which was once the home of Simon Wedgwood. Equipped with the very latest high-tech facilities, the apartments are
located just two minutes’ walk from Lake Geneva and the world-famous Jet d’Eau fountain – right at the heart of the business district and in easy reach of numerous restaurants, stylish hotels and the city’s vibrant nightlife. Our serviced apartments are fully equipped with a kitchen area, coffee machine, kettle, refrigerator, wine cooler and everything you need for a comfortable stay. Our staff are on hand to help. As well as cleaning your room, they can also organize laundry and shopping services and arrange conference facilities. We understand that every last detail is important.
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Rue Philippe-Plantamour 6, CH-1201 Genève | Phone +41 22 596 12 00 www.swiss-luxury-apartments.ch
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ZOOM BRICE LECHEVALIER
GPHG Ever wider horizons Before heading towards its 20th edition next year, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève continues to shine throughout the world, while adapting both to the tastes of end customers and to the trends of a rapidly changing watch industry. Its categories therefore evolve each year, and its jury preserves its independence and skills by being renewed in successive stages. Among the 30 or so experts composing the 2019 jury, chaired by Aurel Bacs are Jasem Al Zeraei (collector based in Kuwait), Aldis Hodge (actor and watch designer from the USA), Pierre Salanitro (CEO of the subcontractor Salanitro), Jiaxian Xu (collector and founder of SJXwatches.com based in Singapore), Jessica Yu (founder of Hantang Culture in China) and Pascal Raffy, owner of Bovet, the brand that won the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix in 2018. Together, they will have to decide on 19 awards, including these new ones : the Iconic Watch Prize for the best watch from an emblematic collection that has been exercising a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 25 years ; and the Diver’s Watch Prize, which honors a watch linked to the subaquatic world. The 2019 prize list also includes the Calendar and Astronomy Prize, as well as the Watchmaking Revelation Prize, which will enable the jury to reward a creation from a youthful brand. The ceremony will take place on November 7th at the Théâtre du Léman and an analysis of the competing and selected watches will be provided throughout the summer and fall in the GPHG section of worldtempus.com
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An international watch owners club offering its members year-round benefits In association with GMT Magazine, WorldTempus, Geneva Watch Tour and Watch Photo Awards
O pe ni ng 2 0 19 register now on
Photography: Karine Bauzin
www.fine-watch-club.com
ZOOM HITTING THE TRACK BRICE LECHEVALIER
MECCANICHE VELOCI
Geneva to the power of four
The automobile-inspired Swiss brand with an Italian accent has always distinguished itself with its case framing four counters (corresponding to four time zones) and reminiscent of a piston. It now introduces its Icon Mud collection in pink gold, titanium and DLC chocolate-toned titanium.
BELL & ROSS
in the world of F1
Drivers Nico Hülkenberg (GER) and Daniel Ricciardo (AUS) wear Bell&Ross carbondial chronographs designed in partnership with the Renault F1® Team ; will they serve as lucky charms ?
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CARL F. BUCHERER
in sprint mode in Interlaken
Young Swiss talent joins the ALPINA roster Born the same year as GMT (in 2000), the Swiss elite globetrotter and
Consistently active in all fronts, Carl F. Bucherer’s CEO Sascha Moeri has
sportsman Yann Scussel spends most of his time diving, notably for the
just celebrated the reopening of the brand’s Interlaken store after a com-
“Shark Conservation Project” (SCP) and aims to engage in unprecedented
plete renovation, in the company of Switzerland’s fastest woman : sprinter
extreme adventures, notably as a new Alpina ambassador.
Mujinga Kambundji.
MAURICE LACROIX and Palina Kozyrava Considered a friend of the brand, the German fashion blogger loves watches and regularly pictures herself in her photoshoots wearing a Maurice Lacroix on her wrist, between sky and earth. And who could blame her for that ?
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