GMT MIDDLE EAST EDITION 30 - JANUARY 2020

Page 1

Interview

Jean-Christophe Babin CEO, Bvlgari

TEST BENCH Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph STRATEGY Chronode & Cyrus

Hublot CLASSIC FUSION TOURBILLON ORLINSKI SAPPHIRE GMT ME No 31 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2020

31

9 771660 110613






how soon is now?


how long is forever?

H Y T c o r n e r @ g a l e r i e l a faY e T T e doha aHmed Seddiqi & SonS dubai a l i B i n a l i WaT c H e S a n d J e W e l r Y doha P l aT i n u m S a n d S J e d d a h / r i ya d h ProJeKT 8 ManaMa


bovet.com


RÉCITAL 26 B R AIN STORM ® CHAPTE R ON E THREE TIMES INTERNATIONALLY AWARDED SAPPHIRE “WRITING SLOPE” CASE, PATENTED DOUBLE FACE FLYING TOURBILLON, THREE-DIMENSIONAL MOON PHASE, BIG DATE, 10 DAYS’ POWER RESERVE, PATENTED SPHERICAL WINDING SYSTEM. LIMITED EDITION OF 60 MOVEMENTS. MORE THAN SWIS S MADE , SWIS S HAN DCR AFTE D

bovet.com



www.louismoinet.com


THROUGH THE DAY

I N TO T H E N I G H T

Smoking seriously harms y


C I G A R S O F C H A R AC T E R

HATEVER THE TASK, WHATEVER THE HOUR, WINSTON CHURCHILL KNEW THE RIGHT CIGAR CAN BE A TRUSTED COMPANION. SO THE CIGARS WHICH CARRY HIS NAME ECHO HIS CHARACTER. FROM «THE ORIGINAL COLLECTION»

you and others around you

THROUGH TO «THE LATE HOUR» CIGARS, THEIR QUALITY NEVER SLEEPS.

A MAN AND A CIGAR FOR ALL TIMES

#davidoffwinstonchurchill

davidoff.com




AGENT DUBAI U.A.E. Bonus Eventus jbeainy@bonuseventus.ae

RETAILERS DUBAI U.A.E. Watch Gallery +971 4434 1544

ABU DHABI U.A.E. House Of Art +971 2674 5257

DOHA QATAR Al Majed Jewellery +974 4447 8888

KUWAIT Behbehani Watch World +965 2206 0560


KLEPCYS VERTICAL SKELETON TOURBILLON 4N Rose Gold Limited edition 5 pieces Ref. 539.506.GD.A

cyrus-watches.ch

info@cyrus-watches.ch

cyruswatches

cyrus.watches






Let us curate your moments to capture, forever. Let us curate your moments to capture, forever.

Allow us to make your wedding day a magical memory and a milestone to cherish for years to come. Whether it’s a wedding celebration at the hotel, an intimate engagement party in the comfort of your home, or a bridal shower at the venue of your choice, our Ladies and Gentlemen will ensure that the occasion is an elegant expression of individual love. Our seasoned Allow us to make your wedding day a magical memory and a milestone to cherish for years to come. Whether it’s a wedding culinary and outside catering team will take you on an exquisite culinary voyage by creating innovative wedding menus to celebration at the hotel, an intimate engagement party in the comfort of your home, or a bridal shower at the venue of your delight the most discerning palates and transform a meal into an unforgettable memory of your special day. choice, our Ladies and Gentlemen will ensure that the occasion is an elegant expression of individual love. Our seasoned To speakand to aoutside wedding planner, connect withyou us on on an +971 4 372 2628 or email difcweddings@ritzcarlton.com culinary catering team will take exquisite culinary voyage by creating innovative wedding menus to or visit ritzcarlton.com/difc delight the most discerning palates and transform a meal into an unforgettable memory of your special day. To speak to a wedding planner, ©2019 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C. connect with us on +971 4 372 2628 or email difcweddings@ritzcarlton.com or visit ritzcarlton.com/difc ©2019 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C.





UNITED ARAB EMIRATES - MANSOUR JEWELLERS ABU DHABI - 02 626 4260 | DUBAI - 04 228 1115 BAHRAIN - TRAFALGAR ULD W.L.L - 01 726 2706


QATAR - BLUE SALON - 04 446 6111 KUWAIT - TRAFALGAR GENERAL TRADING - 188 1188 SAUDI ARABIA - AL GHAZALI TRADING RIYADH - 011 474 4000 | JEDDAH - 012 647 3000


NZ Icon GMT DPS Mar 2019.indd All Pages


DISCOVER HOME FURNISHING INSPIRATIONS AT NATUZZI.COM DUBAI, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD, TEL 04 3380777 | UMM HURAIR ROAD, TEL 04 3377152 ABU DHABI, LANDMARK TOWER, TEL 02 6444048 (VALET PARKING AVAILABLE) SALES@NATUZZIUAE.COM

DUBAI, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD, TEL 04 3380777 | UMM HURAIR ROAD, TEL 04 3377152 ABU DHABI, LANDMARK TOWER, TEL 02 6444048 SALES@NATUZZIUAE.COM / NATUZZI.COM

3/6/19 12


EDITORIAL NEW YEAR 2020

G

oing purely on the lines of cold, hard rationale, there is no reason why we should make resolutions at this particular time of the year instead of literally any other time. If you have decided to change, to try something new, to improve yourself in one way or another, there is no reason to wait for the new year, if it is worth doing it at

all, then it is worth doing it now. Having said that, let us check about the commitments and values we are truly aiming to strengthen at GMT Middle East. We will focus our attention on watches that are genuinely appreciate. Fine watchmaking is meant to enhance your enjoyment of life, to help you have a good time, and at least for me, the definition of having a good time does not involve making people feel bad about an expensive timepiece. Furthermore, we will always bring value to you with our stories and articles, whether that value comes from being the first to receive the most important news of the day, hearing something about a watch that isn’t generally known elsewhere, or hearing from people whose perspectives bring new insights.

Until next issue,

FADI JAMIL I Publisher, Editor-in-Chief

GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com

GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.

30

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

GMT MIDDLE EAST NO31 | NEW YEAR 2020


We assemble every single watch twice. Because perfection takes time.

For us, perfection is a matter of principle. This is why, on principle, we

parts are cleaned and decorated by hand with finishing and polishing

craft all timepieces with the same care and assemble each watch twice.

techniques, followed by the final assembly procedure. This assures

Thus, after the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE has been assembled for the first

long-term functional integrity and the immaculacy of all artisanal fin-

time and precisely adjusted, it is taken apart again. The movement

ishes. Even if this takes a little more time. www.alange-soehne.com

You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:

A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE DUBAI The Dubai Mall · Tel. +971 4 325 39 23 · dubai@lange-soehne.ae


CONTENTS NEW YEAR 2020

62

68 30 EDITORIAL 32 CONTENTS 36 CONTRIBUTORS

BUSINESS 38 HOT NEWS 68 INTERVIEW | Jean-Christophe Babin | CEO, Bvlgari 104 ATMOSPHÈRE | Omega as time goes by

116 NEW RELEASES

LIFESTYLE

62 COVER STORY

58 EDITOR’S PICK

HUBLOT Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski

Top Chrono! Ready, steady, go!

66 SPOTLIGHT

60 EDITOR’S PICK

Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel

82 TEST BENCH Girard-Perregaux

The depths of time

90 WATCH MY NAME What’s in a name when it comes to Autavia?

Laureato Absolute Chronograph

94 PORTFOLIO BUCHERER BLUE

86 COLLECTORS

106 PHOTOSHOOT

The sound values of the Fine Watch Club

The GPHG Winners

102 STRATEGY

112 ZOOM

Chronode & Cyrus

Charriol Boutique Openings

116 JET SET Range Rover Velar The Range Rover that changes everything

32

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

42


rjwatches.com RJXWATCHES

AHMED SEDDIQI & SONS Dubai Mall, Mall of the Emirates, Mirdif City Center, Wafi AL MANARA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY Marina Mall, The Galleria Sowwah, Yas Mall


CONTENTS NEW YEAR 2020

72 Focus

Close-up view of 10 new releases

72 BAUME & MERCIER Phifty-fifty

73 EBERHARD & CO. Italian ties

74 H. MOSER & CIE. Total shadow and light

75 JACOB & CO. Fast & Furious

76 RICHARD MILLE A new tonneau

77 ROGER DUBUIS A striking new role for carbon

78 SEIKO A winning Seiko

79 TRILOBE One year already

80 ULYSSE NARDIN Like a loudspeaker

72

81 URBAN JÃœRGENSEN In tune with the times

77 34

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

80



CONTRIBUTORS

Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.

Brice Lechevalier Involved in all aspects of the magazine, the founder seeks to convey a sense of pleasure to readers through the various articles.

36

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

Cloé Mugny

Marie De Pimodan

Christophe Persoz

A member of the GMT Publishing team, this translator by training contributes to the Editor’s Picks column.

An expert watch journalist who presents new models as well as handling the Craftsmanship column.

This experienced watchmaker analyzes a model that he wears for an entire week before delivering his technical and aesthetic verdict.

Paul O’Neil

Michèle Brunner

David Chokron

The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.

An experienced member of the GMT Publishing editorial team, she reports on brand events and products.

An expert watch journalist, he provides content for our Tech Insights column as well as presenting the latest new models.

Camille Guille

Edouard Haegi

Serge Panczuk

With a pseudo like perpetual.girl, how could one not take an interest in the instagram accounts she recommends ?

Edouard Haegi is our inhouse photographer/videomaker, who also handles the Watch Photo Awards.

This California-based collector is also a keen traveler who shares his extremely personal vision of what a watch is and what it “tells” us.


MANUFACTURE CALIBRE ARF15 16½’’’

MIRRORED FORCE RESONANCE GUILLOCHÉ DIAL


HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

YANG YANG wears Harry Winston to the CCTV Annual Influencer Awards at Diaoyutai State Guesthouse, in Beijing, China.

Yang Yang wears Harry Winston to the CCTV Annual Influencer Awards WHO:

YANG YANG, “Most Influential Young Actor of the Year” • Emerald 33mm white gold timepiece, diamonds 1.57 carats • Emerald Signature quartz white gold timepiece (as a brooch), diamonds 2.54 carats

WHAT: The CCTV Annual Influencer Awards WHERE: Diaoyutai State Guesthouse | Beijing, China WHEN: Saturday, December 14, 2019

Harry Winston, Inc. has rights to the attached photos for press, Weibo, WeChat, Instagram, Twitter and Facebook

38

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


ADORED F E E LIN G L I K E T H E ONLY PE R S ON I N TH E WOR LD

+971 4 364 7555 jumeirah.com

ABU DHABI

|

BAHRAIN LONDON

|

CHINA |

|

MALDIVES

DUBAI |

|

FRANKFURT

MALLORCA

|

KUWAIT


HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Richard Mille introduces RM 33-02: A combination of ‘lifestyle’ and sporty style BY MARRYING THE PERFORMANCE of a sports watch with the

The sporty, round, RM 33-02 timepiece is powered by the

merged two diametrically opposing characteristics. Overseen

skeletonised RMXP1 calibre in grade-5 titanium. Regulated by a

by Julien Boillat, the Richard Mille watch exteriors teams have

variable-inertia balance oscillating at 3 Hz, this calibre is wound

reinterpreted the collection’s first ultra-thin round watch: the

by an off- centre platinum micro-rotor that considerably reduces

RM 033, which was introduced in 2011.

the movement’s total thickness to 2.60 mm.

‘We believe it is both essential and logical to pay the same

Yet this thinness in no way inhibits the architectural

care and attention to evolving our collections as to the original

expression intrinsic to the brand. The wet sandblasted and

creation of our models. In embodying the brand’s intended

Titalyt®-treated baseplate, the microblasted, stretched and

vision of extreme versatility, the RM 033 is a watch for everyday

satin-finished surfaces, and the anglage—all produced entirely

and any day. We have reinterpreted its aesthetics without

by hand—accentuate volumes by playing with shadow and

disservice to the original version by accentuating its lines.

light thanks to the highly graphic skeletonisation. The exterior

Meanwhile, the exterior decoration, case and dial have been

elements and hour-markers further add to this complex sense

reworked to project a sportier vibe. The RM 33-02 thus achieves

of depth and power. In 5N gold hour-markers on two rigid

a delicate synthesis of so-called ‘lifestyle’ style and sporty style,’

titanium rails fixed between the flange and the movement. The

shares Julien Boillat.

dial, which spans the entire calibre, accentuates the volumes

The taut lines of the case combine the curves of a tonneau shape and the elegance of a round form with a subtle allusion to sporty style in the design of the hollows. This first round

40

of this already extremely bold case.

elegance of a round timepiece, Richard Mille has successfully

while the typography of the oversized numerals adds a dynamic element to the watch’s easy readability. By juxtaposing soft gold with the strength of Carbon TPT®,

Carbon TPT® automatic watch exhibits a Carbon TPT® bezel

and by combining the graphic codes of the lifestyle and sports

and caseback alongside a satin-finished red gold caseband.

spheres for both males and females, Richard Mille clearly

The design of the strap prolongs that of the two indentations

communicates a desire to combine allegedly contradictory

positioned unusually at 6 and 12 o’clock in a highly original

worlds within a single watch. The RM 33-02 Automatic is

way. These new vanishing lines also contribute to the dynamics

available as a limited edition of 140 timepieces.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


D1MILANO.COM


HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

The Bond Watch is revealed OMEGA is delighted to unveil 007’s newest timepiece that will feature in the 25th James Bond film, No Time To Die, set to arrive in cinemas in April 2020 APPEARING ON-SCREEN will be a thrilling new Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition. First launched in 1993, the Diver 300M has built its legacy with real-life divers and style aficionados, as well as becoming the quintessential wrist-wear of James Bond. OMEGA has worked closely on the development of the Bond watch with Daniel Craig and the filmmakers, whose knowledge of James Bond has brought invaluable insight to OMEGA’s watch developers and designers. Daniel Craig’s own experience as 007 has also influenced this exciting final design. In the link below, you can discover all the Seamaster models that James Bond has trusted so far. Then, find out more about the watch that will be seen in No Time To Die.

42

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION



HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Blancpain creates its first porcelain dial for the Year of the Rat In celebration of the Chinese Year of the Rat Blancpain is unveiling its first watch with a porcelain dial entirely hand-crafted in its Métiers d’Art workshops. Issued in an eight-piece limited edition of one-of-a-kind timepieces, the special series marks the introduction of this traditional Chinese skill within the Manufacture in Le Brassus.

With its artisans that master a wide range of decorative techniques and ancestral manual arts, Manufacture Blancpain in Le Brassus is a leading center for watch-related artistic crafts.

make it shiny, translucent and enduringly stable. The Métiers d’Art Porcelaine special edition combines

Blancpain makes it a point of honor to regularly extend its

the art of porcelain with enamel painting. Dedicated to the

expertise by integrating new forms of craftsmanship into its

Chinese zodiac sign of the year, each of its eight one-of-a-kind

workshops. Against this background, after more than a year of

timepieces depicts the Rat. Each animal and each decoration

development and testing, the Maison is now unveiling its first

is painted freehand with an extremely fine brush. A lengthy

porcelain dials entirely designed and produced in-house.

1,200°C firing stage fixes the colors on the porcelain. The ability

Involving several steps punctuated by long drying and firing

to achieve such a temperature, which would be impossible with

phases, creating a porcelain dial requires dexterity and patience.

an enamel dial on a gold base, opens up whole new fields of

Presented in the form of a powder mainly composed of quartz,

possibility in terms of both color and intensity.

feldspar and kaolin, porcelain is first diluted in water. The

With a 33 mm diameter white gold case featuring a bezel set

resulting pulp is sieved and filtered to remove all residues

with 48 brilliant-cut diamonds, the Métiers d’Art Porcelaine

and impurities, prior to being cast in dial-shaped molds. After

watches are powered by the 1154 automatic movement, whose

demolding, the dials are dried for 24 hours before being fired at

exquisite finishes may be admired through a sapphire case-back.

1,000°C for the same length of time. This first step in the kiln

An alligator leather strap sets the perfect finishing touch to

hardens the dials and prepares them for enameling. The enamel

these precious timepieces.

is then rigorously applied by hand to each dial, before a second

44

24-hour firing at 1,300°C that serves to vitrify the porcelain and

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


REJUV ENAT E WITH THE FESTI VE REVIV ER AT

The Spa at Address Boulevard

Prepare

for the festive season with a revitalising treatment at The Spa at Address Boulevard. Treat yourself to the Festive Reviver, which holistically revitalises with a full body massage and an Argan silk body scrub, and enjoy our spa pool and a festive gift, with our compliments. Price: AED 550 per person Treatment duration: 90-minutes massage and scrub Date: 1st December until 31st December Time: 9.00am to 10.00pm

BOOK NOW T +971 4 561 8153 ADDRESSHOTELS.COM


HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

L.U.C GMT One Time elsewhere THE INHERENTLY DISTINGUISHED new L.U.C GMT One

as experienced by friends and family. In its more contemporary

provides a dual-time read-off powered by an original L.U.C

stainless steel version, the sunburst black dial rimmed by slate

01.10-L calibre with integrated GMT function. This watch for

grey serves to show the 24 hours of a busy day, transferred in

gentleman globetrotters stands out by the sheer elegance of

white for daytime hours and in orange for the night hours. The

its details and the intensely practical nature of its horological

18-carat rose gold variation graced with alternating polished and

complication. A modern design and finely crafted finishes

satin-brushed finishes is the dressier of the two models. The dial

make it a perfect travelling companion for peregrinations

matching the case is surrounded by a part-brown, part-white ring

around the world.

providing a clear contrast between daytime and night-time.

AN AURA OF DISTINCTION AND STYLISTIC BALANCE To celebrate the 20th anniversary of the founding of its

46

In keeping with the fundamental spirit of the L.U.C collection, the L.U.C GMT One is an exceptional timepiece that is easy to use

Manufacture in Fleurier, Chopard is launching the first L.U.C

and appreciate on a day to day basis. A first crown positioned at 2

watch to feature a dual-time function built into the movement.

o’clock serves to adjust the date and local time, while the second

The L.U.C GMT One adds an ideal finishing touch to the attire

crown at 4 o’clock controls the large baton-type hand tipped with

of a gentleman traveller when crisscrossing the globe. Its GMT

a large arrow and pointing to the second time zone. The latter

function serves to display a second time zone and tells the time

is orange for the L.U.C GMT One in steel and gilt for the 18K

in any place and every circumstance. When travelling, the

rose gold version. At 6 o’clock is glides over the date aperture, a

timepiece adjusts to local time while keeping track of home time

characteristic feature of L.U.C watches.

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION



HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Panerai is the Official Sponsor of Luna Rossa, The challenger of record of the 36th edition of the America’s cup PANERAI will create a new collection of Panerai watches

the first to challenge the defender New Zealand for the right to

dedicated to luna rossa challenge, the italian team which is the

compete in the 36th edition of the America’s Cup.

first to challenge the defender of the 36th America’s cup. An exciting new Italian story associated with the sea, with

The agreement, signed by Panerai’s CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué and Patrizio Bertelli, President of Luna Rossa and CEO of the

excellence and with technical innovation is taking place

Prada Group – title sponsor of Luna Rossa together with Pirelli –

thanks to the partnership between Panerai and Luna Rossa,

provides that Panerai will be the Official Sponsor of Luna Rossa.

the Challenger of Record team which a few months ago was

Panerai will create a series of watches directly inspired by the technologies and materials used in the America’s Cup, which is the oldest sports competition in the modern world, but also one of the more advanced in terms of research and innovation. The new Panerai Luna Rossa watches, perfect instruments for life at sea, will be worn by the members of the Luna Rossa Sailing Team headed by Massimiliano “Max” Sirena - who has already won the America’s Cup twice - and by many sailing enthusiasts who are eagerly awaiting the America’s Cup World Series, the preliminary races which will precede the final in New Zealand in 2021. The first stage of the ACWS will take place in 2019 in Cagliari, Sardinia, where the Luna Rossa team has its headquarters. The new monohull on which the members of this team will be competing is the AC75 and this will be the first opportunity to see this yacht in competition.

48

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K


SWISS LUXURY APARTMENTS GENEVA Are you looking for a comfortable apartment where everything is ready for you to move in?

A home away from home in the city center for your frequent visits to Geneva? Or a more spacious alternative to your hotel room for a longer duration of stay? You finally found it ! Experience the 24 luxuriously appointed apartments in the very heart of Geneva where modern furnishings and state of the art equipment meet the charm of a historical building. Enjoy added privacy along with personalized service of the experienced team on site and feel like you were in your own home. This property was recognized with the World Travel Award for the second year in a row for its excellent facilities and quality of service.

Swiss Luxury Apartments SA Rue Philippe-Plantamour 6 & 8, 1201 Genève T +41 22 596 12 00 - F +41 22 596 12 01 info@swiss-luxury-apartments.ch www.swiss-luxury-apartments.ch


HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Record result for LANGE 1 in steel Rare version achieves sensational increase in value at Phillips A LANGE 1 in stainless steel is as rare as it is coveted. On 10 December 2019, one of the few timepieces with the reference 101.026 changed hands at the Game Changers auction of Phillips in New York for 343,750 US dollars (about 310,250 euros). From the mid-1990s, only a few timepieces in this version, which has never been offered in the catalogue, were produced. Case and buckle are made of stainless steel and the hands of blued steel. Equipped with the manufacture calibre L901.0, all functions correspond to those of the LANGE 1 in gold, which at the time had a price of about 14,600 euros (59,628 Dhs). On this basis, the LANGE 1 now offered in New York was sold for more than twenty times its original price. As recently as last month, a corresponding model was auctioned at Auctions Dr. Crott in Frankfurt for 218,000 euros (890,331 Dhs).

50

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


DEFI MILLENNIUM

A DISTINCT SENSE OF STYLE LIGHTWEIGHT. HIGH PERFORMANCE.

WWW.ST-DUPONT.COM


HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Outstanding results for three legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre watches sold at auction FALL PROVED TO BE A FRUITFUL SEASON for Jaeger-LeCoultre

version of the Memovox known as the Polaris is the United States

treasures hunters as three extremely rare watches hit the auction

and the Skin Diver Memovox in Europe. The reference E859 offers

block. Each one of the three watches embodies the spirit of

both a visual timer in the inner bezel and an auditory alarm

innovation and aesthetics dear to the brand with a special twist,

which vibrates against the skin for ultimate safety. Whereas

which makes them a treasure for collectors. Thanks to their

most Memovox dials do not bear any inscriptions apart from the

unique features and provenance, they all contribute to enrich the

brand name, the Polaris sold at Phillips is stamped Memodate, a

brand’s heritage archives. Last but not least, all three pieces beat

particularity hardly ever seen.

their highest estimate. Reminiscing the roaring 60’s, while men conquer space and

by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1962 with the Lucky 13. On Friday April

seas, gentlemen wish to work, travel and dive in style. Amidst

13th, thirteen Senators gathered at the Anti-Superstition Society

the technological revolution, Jaeger-LeCoultre releases three

presented the Lucky 13 to Colonel John H. Glenn, the first

unique watches, a Memovox reference 3161 made in platinum, a

American astronaut to orbit Earth. Featuring the number 13 at

Memodate Polaris reference E859 and the Lucky 13 featuring the

every hour marker on the dial, the watch commemorates his

number 13 at every hour marker.

spacecraft capsule number 13 and is an ode to the rejection of the

Memovox stands for the “voice of memory” and was known as

number 13 as unlucky. Produced and assembled in the United

the most reliable alarm watch at the time it was released. The

States, the Lucky 13 is a further testimony of the tight links

model sold at Monaco Legend is considered as one of the most

between Jaeger-LeCoultre and the American market.

collectible piece ever produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre as well as

Jaeger-LeCoultre is very proud to actively participate in

extremely rare as it is made in platinum and features the iconic

discovering and tracing its legendary watches provenance.

alarm complication. Moreover, the piece is accompanied by the

The three pieces sold at auction this fall epitomize the brand’s

extract of the archives from Jaeger-LeCoultre confirming its

avant-garde and refined style. They are part of the rich and

production in 1962.

complex history of our brand which is yet to be fully unveiled and

Surfing on the trend of “complications with a practical purpose” typical of the 60’s, Jaeger-LeCoultre makes a diver’s

52

From the deep sea to space, it was only a short step taken

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

definitely to be continued.



HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Maurice Lacroix is proud to welcome Anders Mol and Christian Sørum to the brand’s circle of friends “ANDERS AND CHRISTIAN have impressed us with their

for us.” During team Beach Volley Vikings visit to the

maturity, dedication and undeniable talent. They are two

Manufacture in Saignelégier, the teammates were struck

extremely humble young men who are leading their careers

by the watchmaking process. “We’d never had the chance

without putting a foot wrong. They perfectly represent the

to discover how timepieces were made until now, and it’s a

values of Maurice Lacroix. We will be joining them in all of

real work of art which requires extreme precision. Such work

their challenges to come. And we’re already looking forward

takes on an even greater significance when you get to wear a

to it!”, explains Stéphane Waser, Managing Director of

Maurice Lacroix watch on your wrist! We also really recognise

Maurice Lacroix.

ourselves within the brand which provides high-quality

The players themselves are extremely proud of this collaboration: “We love the slogan ‘Your Time is Now!’ as

to know that we and our loved ones can purchase a beautiful

it’s really in keeping with our own mindsets. We live in the

Swiss-made watch without spending a fortune!”

present moment and each day is a new sporting challenge

54

designer pieces for a reasonable price. It’s important for us

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Rue de la Chapelle 8 1207 Genève


HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL

Breguet and race for water: The adventure continues As the end of the year approaches the Race for Water teams have reached Asia, where their mission continues. As the endeavor’s main sponsor, Breguet is proud to support this foundation, which is committed to saving the oceans from the threat of plastic pollution. This association is in keeping with the aim of the House of Breguet’s President, Marc A. Hayek, who wishes for the brand to take an active role in protecting our planet. An Adventure Called “Race for Water” The adventure began in 2010, when the Swiss entrepreneur Marco Simeoni

Race for Water will set sail for Shanghai before Japan, and then

founded Race for Water, which supports scientific research

Tokyo, where it will then remain throughout July. The timing

on the ecological balance of the deep ocean. After an initial

was deliberately chosen because it coincides with the Summer

expedition in 2015, the foundation launched a new five-year

Olympic Games. This will be their longest stopover. While the

world tour in 2017 where the main objective is to save the

aim of each stop is to engage with local authorities, private

oceans from the threat of plastic pollution and raise public

individuals and of course lots of schoolchildren (nearly 15,000

awareness. The odyssey set off from Brittany in April 2017

people have received outreach since 2017, including more than

on board a groundbreaking boat that is powered solely by

5,500 schoolchildren), it is also crucial for the foundation to

renewable energy. It arrived in Asia after crossing the Atlantic

be present in places that are highlighted by major events.

and Pacific oceans over the course of two years including

The Bermuda stage in 2017, for example, coincided with the

stopping in around 20 cities. The boat and its crew intend to

America’s Cup and the odyssey will call at Dubai for Expo

reach Shanghai at the beginning of 2020, after their long stay

2020. In Tokyo, as elsewhere, the foundation will be greeted

in Hong Kong. Breguet and Race for Water The watchmaker

by senior officials. Race for Water makes clear: “Raising public

and the foundation have a great deal more in common than

awareness is important, but the emphasis is on reaching

their shared passion for the sea. Both entities are committed

those who have the power to take decisions and action.” The

to saving the planet. When asked why Breguet chose Race for

Adventure Continues on Land While one of Race for Water’s

Water over another foundation, Breguet, replied that what

main missions is to generate awareness about ocean pollution,

sets Race for Water apart is its global scope and realistic

it also works to find a solution to the issue of transforming

approach. What makes the foundation unique is its outreach,

and repurposing plastic waste based on optimized high-

and the proactive work with young people in particular. It has

temperature pyrolysis technology. Deployed on a massive scale,

a strong educational aspect, and the scientific component is

this could end the majority of ocean contamination caused by

also vital. Collecting waste is great, but repurposing it and

plastic waste.

transforming it into clean energy is even better. This is the

56

ambition behind this project. Destination Japan 2020 In 2020,

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION



EDITOR’S PICK JORDY BELLIDO

Top Chrono !

Ready, steady, go ! BREGUET

CARL F. BUCHERER

PANERAI

Heritage Chrono

Luminor Luna Rossa

5527

BiCompax Annual

Resistant to the seafaring conditions thanks to titanium, an omnipresent material that reinforces its sporting spirit, this chronograph houses the 582QA caliber, of which the mechanism may be viewed through the transparent sapphire caseback.

Issued in an 888-piece run and equipped with a tachymeter scale, this Heritage model pays tribute to the design of the historic model, while adapting to contemporary mechanical requirements thanks to its CFB1972 caliber.

Regatta – 47 mm Presented at SIAR 2019, this model contains the same robust components as those used on some sailboats in the America’s Cup. The integrated flyback chronograph pays tribute to regattas.

Marine Chronographe

58

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

RICHARD MILLE

RM 50-04 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen With a new six-column wheel as well as a blade on the split-seconds wheel of the RM50-03 caliber, the timekeeping performance of this Formula 1 30-piece limited edition is optimized.


When elegance meets performance, the chronograph enters the competition. When your thirst starts to kick in, check out WorldTempus where a 400-page guide to the best chronographs in 2019 is ready to download. Meanwhile, enjoy a foretaste with this selection. Ready, steady, GO !

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER Kalpagraphe

EBERHARD & CO. Nuvolari Legend

GRAHAM

REBELLION RE-VOLT x RocketByz

malija /stock.adobe.com

Chronofighter Vintage Ltd

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 59


EDITOR’S PICK JORDY BELLIDO

The depths of time As much as his mask and fins, a diver’s watch is essential for any diver worth his salt. In the deepest of oceans, this timepiece is the only ally you can count on. Dive into the unknown with this selection that is sure to take your breath away.

RESERVOIR

ALPINA

Hydrosphère Air Gauge

Seastrong Diver Heritage

FAVRE-LEUBA

ZRC

Raider Deep Blue

Réédition

aetb /stock.adobe.com

« Marine Nationale » 1964

60

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Collection Medici en résine acrylique, aspect bois, attributs en palladium. Le stylo à plume Oversize est équipé du système Power Filler. Le stylo à plume Medium est équipé du système à Converter. Le Medici est également disponible en Roller, Bille et Mine. www.visconti.it


COVER STORY FADI JAMIL

62

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


HUBLOT

Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski Watchmaking art and sculpture: a fusional duo Produced with the visual artist Richard Orlinski, the new Classic Fusion Tourbillon carves out a creation that is as sculptural as it is free, with a wide bevelled case that unveils structured mechanics. In sapphire, King Gold or ceramic, this three-dimensional watch displays modernity in all of its facets.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 63


H

ublot’s creative partner since 2017, the contemporary

disruptive materials, evolves a work of art that is ready to wear.

sculptor Richard Orlinski blends his graphic universe

The new Classic Fusion Tourbillon 5-Day Power Reserve Orlinski,

and faceted style with the House’s watchmaking and

produced in three series limited to 30 pieces each, assumes

technological expertise. Both Hublot and Orlinski share the

a sculptural dimension, with the famous Hublot tourbillon

same inventiveness, fascination with colours and matters, and

movement entirely redesigned and its bevelled lines. A work

interplay of transparency and light, which they bring to life in

of art for the wrist, inspired by the French artist’s bestiary in

astonishing technical and aesthetic challenges. Several watches

faceted resin or hollowed-out metal.

of remarkable design have already been created by this technicalartistic fusion. Through the alchemy of facets, edges and

64

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

This renewed collaboration is a fusion of two arts— watchmaking and sculpture—via two techniques held dear by


CLASSIC FUSION TOURBILLON ORLINSKI CASE : Polished Sapphire crystal or polished

18K King Gold or microblasted black ceramic MOVEMENT : HUB6021 Manufacture manual-

winding skeleton tourbillon movement with power reserve indicator NO. OF COMPONENTS : 183 (25 rubies) DIAL : Matte anthracite grey or matte gold or matte black color Skeleton STRAP: Transparent smooth (Sapphire) or black

smooth (King Gold and Black Magic) rubber straps BUCKLE: 3Titanium (Sapphire) or 18K Gold 5N and black-plated stainless steel (King Gold) or black ceramic and black-plated stainless steel deployant buckle clasp (Black Magic) REFERENCES: 505.JX.6910.RT.ORL19 (Sapphire)

– Limited to 30 pieces / 505.OX.1180.RX.ORL19 (King Gold) – Limited to 30 pieces / 505.CI.1170. RX.ORL19 (Black Magic) – Limited to 30 pieces

Orlinski: his animal icons, which are faceted (T-Rex, Wild Kong,

pointing angles, and a power reserve displayed on a ring over

or Panther) or open-work (Kong, tiger or “lace” bear), from the

which a hand hovers, this skeleton calibre breaks with tradition.

Born Wild© concept. Through his art, the violence of nature

In addition to its stylised skeletonising, the manufacture

is transformed into a positive expression of hypnotic beauty.

manual-winding movement is distinguishable thanks to its

The 45-mm diameter case of the new Classic Fusion Tourbillon

long five-day power reserve, indicated on the dial side, and its

5-Day Power Reserve Orlinski presents facets cut out of sapphire,

sculptural tourbillon making one revolution per minute. On a

King Gold or black ceramic and unveils ultra-modern open-work

transparent or black rubber strap, fitted with a deployant buckle

architecture. With its wide mechanism apertures highlighting

clasp matching the case, this trio creates a composition of

its gears and tourbillon cage, sleek matte bars with inward-

contemporary art.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 65


SPOTLIGHT BRICE LECHEVALIER

Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel

Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel CASE : white gold, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 43mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding (Caliber 184, 52h

power reserve), 1,050 components, multi-axis tourbillon FUNCTIONS : leap year, year, jumper pointer-type calendar, perpetual calendar, hours, minutes, perpetual calendar (day/ date/month/year), spherical Gyrotourbillon®, guilloché Grand Feu blue enamel or silver-grained STRAP : leather LIMITED EDITION : 18 pieces

66

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


T

his exceptional watch, however spectacular, could be likened to the tip of the Lac de Joux “iceberg” that is the Grande Maison in Le Sentier. It is indeed vital to grasp

the fact that such an achievement is based on a century and a half of expertise, as well as that Jaeger-LeCoultre is currently home to 180 different watchmaking skills which have jointly created more than 1,200 calibers and registered more than 400 patents. This Manufacture remains the only one in the world to have a portfolio of historical and contemporary models comprising more than 200 chiming movements. The most exclusive features of its incredible range of watchmaking expertise are distilled into this fifth episode of the Gyrotourbillon saga that began in 2004 : a constant-force mechanism guaranteeing extreme chronometric precision, a Westminster chime minute repeater, a miniaturized multi-axial tourbillon and the ultimate in luxury watchmaking finishing. The poet Jean de La Fontaine* would have loved the Master Grande Tradition Westminster Perpetual Gyrotourbillon Gyrotourbillon, whose crystalline “song” is indeed as fine as its Grand Feu enamel “plumage”. The watchmakers of the Vallée de Joux have drawn on a centuries-old heritage as well as on their most recent innovations in crafting the design and sound of this minute repeater, which stands out for its power and clarity. Firstly, its patented crystal gongs are welded directly to the watch crystal so as to enhance sound transmission ; secondly, they feature a square (and not round) section that provides them with a broader contact surface ; and finally, their tiny trebuchet hammers are spring-mounted to ensure a faster and more powerful strike. These four gong-and-hammer sets play the Westminster chime in four phases, in reference to the tower of London’s Palace of Westminster and its famous Big Ben chimes. The entire model benefits from the constant-force mechanism not only intended to regulate the level of energy supplied to the multi-axis tourbillon and preserve its accuracy, but also to regulate the movement of the minutes wheel and thereby activate the jumping minutes hand. The ultra-sophisticated in-house caliber also incorporates a spherical balance-spring that very few brands have the capacity to develop. There are likewise not many that are well versed in the art of the perpetual calendar, which in its conventional configuration involves tedious adjustment in one direction only. In this interpretation, users can enjoy simpler adjustments in either direction. Meanwhile, in terms of the watch exterior, sophisticated guilloché engraving and enameling set the final touches to this truly extraordinary accomplishment. *author of the famous fable “The crow and the fox” in which the fox flatters the crow by saying : “In truth, if your song be as fine as your plumage, you are the phoenix of these woods.”

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 67


INTERVIEW BY BRICE LECHEVALIER

Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO, Bvlgari

68

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


You have just inaugurated your watch exterior component manufacturing facility, and you also held an open day at your movement manufacturing facility for selected VIPs. What benefits do you derive from this vertical integration ? The creation of our watch exterior component division actually corresponds to a strategy of vertical integration undertaken a decade ago, because Bvlgari has been manufacturing its cases, dials and movements for years. Our production units were spread over five sites and called for a certain amount of rationalization. We have already merged our watchmaking expertise center in La Chaux-deFonds with our movement production site in Le Sentier, by building a multi-purpose movement center enabling far greater flexibility and responsiveness. This makes it possible to produce what is requested and not only what is planned, thus avoiding building up stocks and enabling huge gains, since our replenishment times have been cut from eight months to three months. Our assemblers thus move seamlessly from a simple time-only three-hand watch to more complicated models with or without a tourbillon. Grande Sonnerie models naturally remain the exclusive preserve of three expert master watchmakers. The same applies to our new watch exterior component division, since there are also synergies in the production of dials and cases, such as polishing or machining, even though these two professions were created independently at Bvlgari. This is doubly positive in that it benefits not only clients, but also employees whose expertise thus evolves and gives them access to broader potential career options, which is not always the case in a medium-sized company. Are the five world records in thinness achieved by Bvlgari within just a few years beginning to bear fruit in terms of enhancing the brand image among final customers ? This is clearly evident, as confirmed by our retailers who show us greater consideration, as well as increased demand for our men’s watches. At the same time, this recognition of watchmaking expertise also reinforces interest in our ladies’ watches. Customers appreciate having a watch designed for them by a real high-end watch brand, which explains why Bvlgari is able to grow despite the difficulties currently facing the market. Your Bvlgari hotel in Dubai is hosting an LVMH watch event in July ; is this important for you ? Traditionally at this time of year, we have been accustomed to meeting with the international press and our clients in Geneva on the sidelines of the SIHH to present our new products so that they could plan their year. Since the watch shows have been switched to the end of April/beginning of May, in order not to lose four months on our 2019 momentum, our LVMH January encounter in Dubai puts us in touch with the best watchmaking journalists on the planet and the best retailers of the Bvlgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Zenith brands in order to achieve a significant part of the 2020 turnover. All this while many other brands will still have to wait several months. Hosting visitors in a Bvlgari hotel provides a context of very high-quality hospitality, far more conducive to building partnerships than at watch fairs. This Dubai event therefore replaces our old Geneva Days, perhaps even Baselworld in the future, we are not yet sure.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 69


“Bvlgari is pursuing its development despite the current market difficulties.”

Bvlgari has just taken part in the Dubai Watch Week ; what was the purpose of that ? We participate through our retailer Seddiqi, which handles Bvlgari in the region, and has created an excellent platform in terms of visibility, especially for male customers. The Dubai Watch Week is a golden opportunity to showcase our expertise in men’s watches with our five world records and our awards at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève over the years. Bvlgari should emerge positively in the eyes of visitors and of the Seddiqi clients attending our dinners. Bvlgari watches are currently enjoying a healthy dynamic ; what is the outlook for 2020 ? With the tensions in Hong Kong, which according to official figures is the leading export market for watches, the sector is declining significantly and this is likely to affect the first months of 2020 as well. The sharp drop in tourist arrivals in Hong Kong is not offset by transfers to other destinations. Even if the Hong Kong and Beijing governments find a solution, mistrust will linger for several months, as was the case with the yellow vest movement in France, thereby penalizing watchmaking. Fortunately, just as during the 2014 slowdown, Bvlgari is starting the year with a new collection whose positive effects should last 18 to 24 months and enable us to post growth above the market average. Seduttori ladies’ watches were created for more everyday use and reach a new clientele. In addition, the Lvcea Skeleton model is becoming an unexpected bestseller whose success we will interpret in various ways, and we will unveil at our Dubai event Octo models that continue to prove very interesting. How is the high-end market doing on both feminine and masculine levels ? Bvlgari is achieving healthy sales with the Octo Tourbillon Saphir models, of which customers sometimes also request versions in jade or other precious stones, at prices amounting to CHF 400,000 or CHF 500,000. The success of very high-end watchmaking also applies to Haute Joaillerie ladies’ watches with small complications such as the tourbillon. This segment is already an important part of the market, but there is room for progress if I look at what is happening with other brands.

70

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


LE CIRQUE: The greatest culinary show on earth. A timeless classic originating from New York, experience Le Cirque's famed French cuisine, with a twist of Italian flair, at the sleek and elevated setting of Dubai.

The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC For restaurant reservations, email difcrestaurants@ritzcarlton.com or call +971 4 372 2323


FOCUS

BAUME & MERCIER

BRICE LECHEVALIER

Clifton Baumatic CASE : pink gold, polished/satin-finished, sapphire crystal caseback,

water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 39mm MOVEMENT : mechanical selfwinding (Baumatic BM13-1975A caliber, 120h power reserve), gold rotor, Côtes de Genève motif FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date DIAL : porcelain-type finish, riveted hour-markers, faceted hands STRAP : black alligator leather with tool-free interchangeability, folding clasp

fifty

Phifty-

While the aesthetic qualities of Baume & Mercier models have always appealed to devotees of classic and elegant watches, their technical content has recently taken a more distinctively horological turn with the Baumatic line of calibers. Designed for the brand bearing the Greek symbol Phi synonymous with perfection, this slim self-winding movement, which guarantees a five-day power reserve, is also chronometer-certified by the COSC. This added value in terms of performance and reliability thereby reinforces confidence among enthusiasts of affordable and tasteful watch creations, who appreciate them for what can be seen on both sides. All the more so here with this movement’s Côtes de Genève motif and gold oscillating weight generously visible through the gold caseback. On the dial side, the readability and functionality of the Clifton Baumatic are ideally served by the alternating black and gold colors of the hands and indications standing out against the creamy white background of this undeniably appealing timepiece. A shining example of the benefits of simplicity.

72

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


FOCUS

EBERHARD & CO.

JOY CORTHÉSY

1887 Remontage Manuel CASE : in steel, polished with satin-finished

parts, water-resistant to 30 meters DIAMETER : 41.8mm MOVEMENT : mechanical, hand-wound, caliber EB 140, 40-hour power reserve DIAL : white, with a “Clous de Paris” hobnail motif, personalized with the historical Eberhard & Co. Chaux-de-Fonds logo and the Maison’s founding year (1887) appearing on metal cartouches ; gilded or rhodium-plated Roman numerals and hour-markers FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date display STRAP : available in blue or brown Jacquard silk or alligator

Italian ties 2019 has proven to be a significant year for Eberhard & Co. with the opening of its first museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds and the launch of its new EB140 caliber, a manual-winding movement exclusively produced by Eberhard & Co. in La Chaux-de-Fonds. It powers a likewise all-new model, the 1887 Remontage Manuel. The simplicity of the clean case design is nicely complimented by the “Clous de Paris” hobnail motif on the white dial with either gilded or rhodium-plated numerals and hour-markers. A date window at 6 o’clock sits below the “1887” logo, taken straight from the company’s archives dating back to the early 1900s. And inside beats the EB140 caliber, its balance wheel and bridge finished with a circular wave pattern visible through the sapphire caseback. As a first for Eberhard & Co., this model comes with an alligator strap as well as a new Jacquard patterned silk strap. Made in collaboration with the Ulturale tie-makers, widely considered the gatekeepers for the Neapolitan sartorial arts, the new wristbands add a certain flair to the watch as a nod to Eberhard & Co.’s Italian connections.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I

73


FOCUS

H. MOSER & CIE.

DAVID CHOKRON

H.Moser & Cie. Venturer Concept Vantablack Diamonds CASE : white gold, set with 313 diamonds (3.77cts), transparent

sapphire caseback and crystal DIAMETER : 39mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, HMC327 caliber with 72-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, power-reserve indicator on the back DIAL : Vantablack, white gold leaf-type hands STRAP : black alligator with white gold pin buckle

Total shadow and light

Physicists argue that black is not a color. Its users, on the other hand, respond that it is indeed one and perhaps even the most powerful of all. H. Moser & Cie. manages to reconcile these two points of view by staging the only total black actually available : Vantablack. This material composed of vertically aligned carbon nanotubes is sprayed onto the dial of the Venturer Concept Vantablack Diamonds. Given that it absorbs 99.965% of visible light, the watch face thus takes on the appearance of a black hole, literally if not in the astrophysical sense of the term. Its ability to retain light is so strong that the Vantablack erases any depth effects, thus creating a certain visual confusion by removing any related reference points. H. Moser & Cie. makes the most of this absolute black by marrying it with the most luminous material of all, since this abyss is circled by a bright, white, pure and intense diadem. No less than 313 snow-set diamonds (cousins of Vantablack since both are made of carbon) turn a dazzling spotlight on the edge of the arrestingly dark chasm, thereby striking the ultimate contrast.

74

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


FOCUS

JACOB & CO.

JOY CORTHÉSY

Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition CASE : black DLC titanium grade 5 and forged carbon, sapphire

crystal caseback DIMENSIONS : 57 x 52mm MOVEMENT : Manufacture manual-winding JCFM05, 50-hour power reserve DIAL : smoked sapphire with Jacob & Co. and Bugatti logos, hour-markers in white Super-LumiNova® and hands in anthracite and blue FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, minute repeater, power-reserve indicator STRAP : black leather

Fast & Furious Initially introduced in 2018, Jacob & Co.’s Twin Turbo Furious took Baselworld by storm with its twin triple axis tourbillons rapidly spinning on the lower half of the dial. As a way of forging its newly minted partnership with luxury automotive brand Bugatti, Jacob & Co. has created a special Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition featuring lively mechanics matching the spirit of equally dynamic cars. For Bugatti, a manufacturer known for creating highperformance luxury cars in limited quantities, Jacob & Co. adopts the same philosophy with this Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition. The dial, hand and hour-markers feature a bright blue contrasting with the black and forged carbon case to honor the 110th anniversary of Bugatti, while the colors of the French flag appearing the “gauge” serving as the power-reserve indicator. Like the original Twin Turbo Furious, two triple axis tourbillons spin below the main dial while the watch also serves as a chronograph and ten-minute repeater. With only 39 issued altogether (18 in carbon, 18 in rose gold and three set with diamonds), these models will require a Bugatti-worthy burst of speed in order to grab one for yourself.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 75


FOCUS RICHARD MILLE DAVID CHOKRON

RM 17-01 Manual Winding Tourbillon CASE : Carbon TPT, transparent sapphire

crystal and back, water-resistant to 50m (5 bar) DIMENSIONS : 40mm x 48mm x 13mm MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding, RM 17-01 caliber with 70 power reserve, skeletonized, made of titanium, one-minute tourbillon regulator, function selector FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, power-reserve indicator DIAL : sapphire STRAP : rubber with titanium folding clasp

A new

tonneau

RM 017 has had its day and is making way for RM 17-01. The latest Richard Mille to make the transition from a three-digit reference to its newgeneration system featuring four digits and a dash, the 17-01 is not just about a change of nomenclature. It breaks with the guiding principle of its predecessor. The RM 017 was one of the brand’s two rectangular models, and extremely slender at just 8.7mm thick. Like all Richard Mille models, the 017 was not flat. The case was curved at both 6 and 12 o’clock, before tapering to mold the curve of the wrist. But the rectangle no longer had its place in the collection, symbolized by the tonneau (barrel) design and in which the circle stands out by its inescapable nature. So the RM 17-01 has become a narrower tonneau-shaped model measuring 40 by 48mm. The domed case is available in the brand’s favorite materials : titanium, red gold, white gold, TZP ceramic and Carbon TPT. The caliber beating inside still bears the same reference, 017, along with the same principles, the same indications and the same highquality fine watchmaking finishes. It has undergone an invisible technical update, which the brand applies to all its calibers as the watches housing them evolve.

76

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


FOCUS ROGER DUBUIS MICHÈLE BRUNNER

A striking new role for carbon Excalibur Spider Unique Series CASE : SMC carbon, internal case, crown and caseback in

titanium and black DLC, sapphire crystal front and back, water-resistant to 50m DIMENSIONS : 47mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding, RD107 caliber powered by two micro-rotors, 21,600 vib/h, 72h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, minute repeater, flying tourbillon, function indicator, striking mechanism indicator, “all or nothing” indicator DIAL : Skeleton with SMC carbon inner flange and black upper flange, 18K gold and black PVD hands, Super-LumiNova® STRAP : bi-material rubber and RubberTech, interchangeable, folding clasp ONE-OF-A-KIND CREATION

A minute repeater in a SMC carbon case with a resolutely sporty, even downright aggressive design ? It took the Roger Dubuis level of intrepidity and audacity – combined with its respect for watchmaking tradition and its expertise in contemporary Haute Horlogerie – to associate this complication born in the 18th century with a cutting-edge material and then to add a flying tourbillon while ensuring the model earned the “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark. The result is an ultra-modern interpretation of the minute repeater, driven by the new RD107 caliber. Lightweight and comfortable on the wrist, the carbon case of Excalibur Spider Unique Series also endows the chime with a crystal-clear sound. The contemporary skeleton design is accompanied by indicators linked to the minute repeater which reinforce the technical nature of the timepiece : one at 10 o’clock serves to observe the striking mechanism ; another at 3 o’clock indicates whether the crown is in winding or adjustment mode ; while the “all or nothing” function appearing at 8 o’clock indicates whether the pusher is in the right position to release the striking mechanism. Visible through the transparent caseback, the reduced size of the two rotors frees up space to view the gongs and hammers of the minute repeater. While only one customer will be able to treat himself to this exclusive Excalibur in green, it will be available to order in other colors.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I I

77


FOCUS SEIKO JOY CORTHÉSY

Seiko Prospex LX line Spring Drive 5R65 SNR029 CASE : titanium, saturation diver’s 300m DIAMETER : 44.8mm MOVEMENT : Spring Drive 5R65, 72-hour power reserve DIAL : black with LumiBrite on hour-markers and hands FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve

Spring Drive BRACELET : titanium bracelet with adjustable folding clasp

A winning

Seiko Since the introduction of its first diver’s watch in 1965, Seiko has been somewhat of a fish in water in that category, as evidenced in its most recent line of diver’s watches, the Seiko Prospex LX line. Given its reputation for being robust in design and sturdy in functionality, few were surprised to see this watch win the Diver’s Watch Prize at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. A reinterpretation of the brand’s 1968 professional Diver’s watch, the new Seiko Prospex LX harkens back to that era when large sports watches were on the rise. Vintage in spirit, this reiteration is entirely modern in execution. The case has been rebuilt to sit more comfortably on the wrist, while its top is angled more profoundly so the Zaratsu-polished surfaces catch the light in a striking manner. The movement has of course been dramatically updated since that 1968 model : the Seiko Prospex LX is now equipped with the 5R Spring Drive caliber, which ensures one-second a day precision. The watch performs well even under various conditions such as shock and variations in temperature. This has been duly tested and proven, since the Spring Drive watch accompanied Yuichiro Miura on his ascent of Mount Everest and even traveled to the International Space Station. A tried and true design, the Seiko Prospex LX is here to stay as the watch for the mightiest of adventurers.

78

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


FOCUS TRILOBE BRICE LECHEVALIER

Les Matinaux CASE : satin-brushed and polished 316L steel, domed bezel,

sapphire back, water-resistant to 50m DIAMETER : 40.5mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (2892 base movement transformed by a 100-part X-Centric module by JF Mojon, 42h power reserve), 246 parts FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, by patented rotating rings and fixed indicators DIAL : sunburst green (seven other colors available), rosettetype seconds and trilobed-shaped indicators STRAP : alligator leather with double folding clasp

One year

already A GPHG finalist that was also in the spotlight at this fall’s Only Watch auction, the architecturally inspired Trilobe brand is celebrating its first anniversary this winter with great panache and confirming its “Time. Liberated” credo. In our last edition, we presented its launch of the season, featuring a bespoke star-studded sky adorning the particularly innovative and accessible dial. Eight shades of varying intensities now adorn its inaugural collection Les Matinaux, from sunburst stormy gray to carmine, silver and blue. Its poetic and technically innovative approach is based on the symbiosis between the architectural and literary culture of its young founder Gauthier Massonneau and the widely proven know-how of watch developer Jean-François Mojon. After three years of R&D, they patented the X-Centric module enabling the rotation of the three rings gliding on rubies : a small one for the seconds, a middle one for the minutes and the largest one for the hours, indicated by three fixed trilobed-shaped indicators. This distillation of aesthetics and performance harbors a wealth of detail and talent, confined within a modest as well as generous price positioning.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 79


FOCUS

ULYSSE NARDIN

DAVID CHOKRON

Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Phantom CASE : polished titanium, sculpted titanium caseback,

Like a

transparent sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 30m (3 bar) DIMENSIONS : 43mm in diameter MOVEMENT : selfwinding mechanical, UN-610 caliber with 42h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, chiming the hours and halfhours in passing DIAL : gray with Devialet pattern grid, golden Arabic numerals, hollow-tipped hands STRAP : black alligator with gold stitching, secured by a titanium folding clasp LIMITED EDITION : 85 pieces

loudspeaker

Hourstriker has existed for years in the Ulysse Nardin collection. This in-passing striking mechanism has always been an exception within this limited genre. The horological complication consisting of chiming once per hour on the hour (and not on demand as in a repeater) is already rare in itself. But here, the movement is also capable of striking halfhours. Nonetheless, the Hourstriker required a technical and aesthetic update. It was the partnership with the French wireless loudspeaker manufacturer Devialet that provided the framework for the new version. One of its founders is a descendant of Ulysses Nardin and bears the same name, which helped facilitate the association. The brand also has extensive experience in acoustics, an area in which the room showed room for improvement. The Hourstriker Phantom (named after a Devialet loudspeaker) has thus benefited from cross-disciplinary research, which led to the introduction of a vibratory membrane between the movement mainplate and the caseback. It is physically connected to the movement by an arm. It redirects the sound waves so as to align them with the surfaces of the watch, which therefore act as a… loudspeaker.

80

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


FOCUS

URBAN JÜRGENSEN

JORDY BELLIDO

Jürgensen One GMT CASE : medical grade 1.4441 stainless steel ;

water-resistant to 120m DIAMETER : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding Urban Jürgensen P5 caliber, 72h power reserve DIAL : adorned with “maritime wave” barleycorn guilloché motif, “Urban Blue” color FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, date, dual time display BRACELET : medical grade 1.4441 stainless steel, butterfly folding clasp

In tune with the

times With its case made of medical grade 1.4441 stainless steel, the Jürgensen ONE GMT is the epitome of modernity. Thanks to the sturdy metal composing it, along with its chic appearance, this model is in tune with the times and fully meets the expectations of the contemporary world. The undulating pattern featured on the dial – as well as on the bracelet in a more abstract interpretation – is the ONE collection’s characteristic wave-like motif. This invitation to travel is reassuring and simplified by the presence of a dual-time display enabling the wearer to remain symbolically linked with their home location even when journeying around the world. The elegant exterior of this traveler’s timepiece is reinforced by a powerful beating heart : the Urban Jürgensen P5 self-winding movement. This blend of elegance and strength endows the Jürgensen ONE GMT with a sporty chic look that is typical of 21st century society, which has further heightened this trend. A gentle whisper evoking the world of travel, this watch belonging to the handful of creations from the Maison is thus even more clearly embedded in the current era.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 81


TEST BENCH CHRISTOPHE PERSOZ

82

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph

L

ike many watch icons, the Laureato collection was created in the mid-1970s. The combination of polygons, sharp edges and circles epitomizes the aesthetic of this decade

and looks very much set to be an enduring emblem of timeless design. And while Girard-Perregaux offers highly distinctive and remarkably complementary collections, the Laureato collection is now clearly the commercial spearhead. We took a closer look at the “Absolute Chronograph” for you.

EXTERIOR : The collection is characterized by an octagonal bezel and this model measures 44mm in diameter and 14.65mm thick : very reasonable dimensions considering the functions it houses. The black PVD-treated titanium case contributes to the comfort of the watch while visually downplaying its size. The designers of this new model were clearly also concerned with ergonomics, since the chronograph pushers with their rectangular crosssection are slightly concave. While this detail is almost imperceptible from an aesthetic standpoint, it makes operating them much smoother and enhances the sense of precision when activating the functions. It is however the dial of this new chronograph that particularly appealed to us. Its gradient of ‘sunburst’ blue shades is beautifully controlled and features exceptional linearity merging seamlessly with the black of the surrounding case. Finally, the recessed mirror-polished hour markers and luminescent white hands contribute to the legibility one would expect from a watch providing such functions, while the date disk blends into the black dial circumference. The screw-down crown and caseback guarantee water resistance to 300m, thus ensuring enhanced sportiness and absolute credibility.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 83


MOVEMENT : The self-winding 3300-1058 movement is a chronograph version of a tried and trusted base caliber. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vph and features a 46-hour power reserve. Its 11 ½ dia­ meter reflects norms dating back 15 years or more. While one might have been tempted to pinpoint this as a flaw in this “Absolute Laureato”, it may in fact be its best asset, since this size guarantees an ergonomic feel reflecting the current return to more reasonable diameters. The 3300 caliber has moreover proven its worth and purchasers of such a watch will have no concerns regarding its reliability. Finally, its power reserve might seem outdated if this were not a self-winding movement.

84

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


TESTS : There is no technological revolution on this watch, whether in terms of its ‘motorization’ or the materials used. Therein perhaps lies the intelligence of this chronograph, which entirely meets each criterion of its technical specifications. When on the wrist, ergonomics is one of the key assets of this chronograph and its integrated rubber strap is certainly the best we have ever been able to test in this material.

POSITIONS MEASUREMENTS 0Hrs : Fully wound

24Hrs later

Rate (sec/day)

1.8

2.3

-1.6

0.7

4.2

2.5

Amplitude

291

288

255

264

275

251

Rate (sec/day)

2.3

3.2

-0.6

1.3

5.1

3.4

Amplitude

248

242

227

236

229

223

In terms of design, this chronograph compares favorably with the 1970s icons mentioned in the opening remarks of this test bench article. Its technical qualities and contemporary interpreCHRISTOPHE PERSOZ Horloger | Watchmaker

tation make it much more than a mere outsider on the watch market. In fact, it may be a forerunner, a model for the future. Given that its price is as reasonable as its ergonomics, it will doubtless appeal to those who care more about the quality of their watch than the social image it conveys.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 85


COLLECTORS BRICE LECHEVALIER

The sound values of the Fine Watch Club Affordable limited editions and exclusive events on the program.

S

ince its first springtime events, the Fine Watch Club has invited its members to enjoy a backstage view of Baselworld, Only Watch, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de

Genève and the Watch Photo Awards ; to tour the Manufactures of Bvlgari, Jaeger-LeCoultre, TAG Heuer, Vacheron Constantin and Zenith ; as well as to visit the Patek Philippe and Frédérique Constant museums, while meeting a number of watch brand managers. Its gallery in Geneva is hosting its first encounters this winter. In 2020, rumor has it that the brand-new Audemars Piguet and Omega museums may well be on the schedule, as well as much more confidential discoveries and “automobile-horological-yachting” events. The mission of the Fine Watch Club is to open wide the doors of the watch industry for its members and to bring them experience and rarity, not only through events but also through watches that cannot be found elsewhere.

86

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


BVLGARI

BVLGARI

ZENITH

ZENITH

Octo Finissimo Automatique Titane Série limitée Fine Watch Club

Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

El Primero Revival A386 Fine Watch Club

El Primero A386 Only Watch

INVESTING FOR PLEASURE While pleasure and confidence in the brands and watches selected by the Fine Watch Club guide the choice and production of the limited editions, particularly in the quality of their aesthetic approach and technical content, this does not preclude the principles of sound advice and reasoning, quite the contrary. The first three limited editions initiated with luxury brands by the international watch owners’ club relate to models whose value has been clearly recognized by collectors and professionals in the sector. The first buyers of Fine Watch Club watches have thus been able to rejoice in their investment.

THE GPHG LABEL Within this context, it is well worth recalling that Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo Automtaic Titanium won the Men’s Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2017, and its chronograph version is now also a prize-winner in the Chronograph category of the 2019 edition. This fifth world record for thinness set by the Octo Finissimo collection further reinforces the desirability of this iconic line, which is highly prized by real collectors, who are well aware of Bvlgari’s watchmaking expertise while being won over by its avant-garde aesthetic. A 12-piece limited edition of this successful model is thus a reliable bet. 

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 87


Zenith event at the Chez Calvin restaurant in Geneva

THE CONCLUSIVE TEST AT AUCTION Likewise, the Fine Watch Club managed to convince Zenith to produce especially for its members a steel case in the El Primero 50th anniversary collection equipped with the new A386 caliber, normally housed in precious metals only, as well as to endow it with an exclusive dial for a 24-piece limited edition – and all at the very affordable price of CHF 8,900. One month after this launch, collectors demonstrated their enthusiasm for the Zenith El Primero Only Watch which was auctioned by Christie’s at more than three times its estimate (CHF 75,000); as well as for the oneof-a-kind platinum model designed with Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo, which reached a record CHF 250,000. How could one go wrong with the one offered by the Fine Watch Club ? Finally, also during the prestigious Only Watch biennial auction (see the complete analysis on worldtempus.com), Maurice Lac-

MAURICE LACROIX

AIKON Automatic Chronograph Fine Watch Club

roix was another one of the brands whose model went under the hammer at more than three times its official estimate: its Aikon sold for CHF 17,000. With its CHF 3,300 price tag, the Aikon Automatic Chronograph created in a 24-piece limited edition by Maurice Lacroix for the Fine Watch Club is a real opportunity, especially since it is offered with a steel bracelet plus an easily interchangeable carbon-printed rubber and leather strap, along with an exclusive dial and engraved caseback, in only 24 copies. This is the first time that Maurice Lacroix has produced such a limited special series. Definitely another reason justifying the Swiss club’s #getwhatyoucant hashtag. With the Fine Watch Club, there’s no longer any need to choose between following your head or your heart.

88

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

MAURICE LACROIX

AIKON Mercury Only Watch 2019



WATCH MY NAME SERGE PANCZUK

Collection 2017

What’s in a name when it comes to Autavia ?

I

n our journey into the strange and wonderful world of watch names, there is a special category, a mixture of creativity, risk and underlying meanings : that of “invented”

names. Such is the case for Heuer with the famous Autavia. It appeals to the imagination and prevents the natural association between name and object. In this way, it creates an immediate link with the subject and inevitably raises questions. Autavia’s story is well known. The name comes from the combination of AUTomobile and AVIAtion, and originally defined onboard instruments for aircraft and cars. What is interesting about the history of names is that the chance effects of a creation – in this instance the combination of two words – can generate many other variations and contain many messages. Before being called Autavia, the first Heuer onboard instruments were called “Time Of Trip”, and united planes and cars around the theme of travel. The first Zeppelin was also equipped with these famous “Time Of Trip” stopwatches.

90

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION

While the story of Autavia is well known, this combination conveys unsuspected messages.


A FIRST FOR JACK HEUER Above and beyond travel, these two industries are also linked by the notions of engineering, technology, and mechanics. And since the name appeared in 1933, it can also be viewed as a message of modernity and progress, with aviation and the automobile still in their infancy. By inventing the name Autavia, Heuer achieved a marketing feat : that of creating a moniker that would establish itself over time and be applied to very different products. Because the initial Autavia bore no relation to that of 1962, or of today. Such is precisely the advantage of an invented name. It adapts and evolves with its product. A Submariner will never be a pilot’s watch, whereas an Autavia can take many forms and its name will remain valid. As Jack Heuer’s first watch creation, the Autavia is a model he designed to be simple, legible and robust. With Autavia, Heuer was launching his brand into the big wide world of wristwatches. The name Autavia would enable this radical change, while maintaining a strong connection with the original onboard instruments. Autavia is therefore a first, if not an ancestor. This is amusing, given that Otavia is also the name given to the oldest animal fossil. Proof that fate is a great provider. Autavia and Otavia : two ancestors having given birth to many descendants !

A FEMININE TOUCH According to Jack Heuer, the Autavia chronograph – launched in 1962 – was to be “a modern chronograph for a modern man”! However, in a rather original way, the name seems feminine, ending in A and featuring a gentle sound when spoken out loud. This introduced a contrasting and even surprising side to a watch designed for activities that tended to be more masculine in those days, such as driving. By naming some of its chronographs in this way, Heuer dared – albeit unintentionally – to adopt a different positioning. Once again, the name Autavia offers a wealth of possibilities, enabling it to create its own story, without being influenced by its environment. Moreover, when someone says Autavia, one could easily understand Octavia, a female name associated with a pleasant appearance, a strong, independent personality, as well as flexibility and adaptability. The latter description is quite interesting, given that one of the distinctive features of the Heuer Autavia is the presence of an external bezel whose function may vary according to the models. It can thus be transformed into a GMT watch, a regatta chronograph, a diver’s watch or a more classic watch equipped with a tachymeter scale. The Autavia is therefore a chronograph characterized by its adaptability, its flexibility, as well as by a unique style. 

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 91


Collection 2019

MORE LITTLE SECRETS Over the years, the Autavia, run by a ValJoux 72, became automatic. Its movement changed, but since its name Autavia also contains the first letters of AUTomatic, the name remained – and also conveys another message, because Autavia harbors many other little secrets. Avia, for aviation. Yes, but what enables planes to fly and cars to run ? Gasoline, of course. In 1934, a few months after the creation of Autavia, a Swiss company named Avia was created, encompassing nearly 100 oil companies… Avia, gas, planes, cars. Did the founders of Avia draw inspiration from Autavia ? We’ll never know, but the timing is interesting. And now for a look at the last three letters : VIA. Here again, there is more than one meaning : the Latin word for road, or the preposition meaning “passing through”. The message is clear, the Autavia is a watch referring to travel, to moving from one place to another, but also a model that would evolve and “pass through” various stages, designs and functions. By incorporating the idea of evolution and movement, the name Autavia enabled Heuer, then TAG Heuer, to develop these watches by endowing them with different personalities. Autavia thus became the name of an entire range, as much as that of a watch. TAG Heuer indeed launched a new Autavia at Baselworld 2019, once again springing a major surprise in that it is not a chronograph, but instead a three-hand watch. It retains its bezel, which sets it apart from the brand’s other historical watches, while also displaying pleasing legibility, another feature common to all Autavia models. This time innovation also finds its place inside the watch, since TAG Heuer has equipped this new arrival with a new movement, chronometer-certified and less sensitive to shocks and magnetic fields. With this new evolution, TAG Heuer has astonished the brand’s historical enthusiasts who naturally associate Autavia with a chronograph. Perhaps we will see another form of renewal in 2020 ?

92

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Le Richemond Geneva

DISCOVER A LAKESIDE ESCAPE A BREATH OF SWISS FRESH AIR AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE ALPS BREATHTAKING VIEWS ON THE JET D’EAU AND THE MONT BLANC FRENCH SEASONAL CUISINE AT LE JARDIN RESTAURANT LE SPA BY SISLEY & FITNESS CELEBRATION OF MEMORABLE EVENTS

Jardin Brunswick | 1201 Geneva | Switzerland lerichemond.com

#MYRichemond


PORTFOLIO BUCHERER BLUE BRICE LECHEVALIER

S

ince the first launches in 2016, Bucherer BLUE has a track record of transforming itself into one of the most innovative lifestyle platforms for watch fans who love exceptional collaborations unbounded by convention. To tie in with this message, Bucherer decided to

work under the theme “What’s your exceptional ?” with young talent to showcase its three latest Bucherer BLUE Collection timepieces : people who question conventions, have pushed the boundaries in their field and simply follow their passion. The Bucherer Blue Collection is available at Bucherer boutiques or on bucherer.com

94

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


POLISH ARTIST MARTA BASANDOWSKA CREATED THE EXTRAORDINARY, OVERSIZED BLUE CUBE IN BRIGHT BLUE WITH INTRICATELY WOVEN STRUCTURES TO PRESENT THE NEW

CARL F. BUCHERER MANERO AUTODATE BUCHERER BLUE


96

I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


AMERICAN WORLD-CLASS FENCER, WORLD CHAMPION AND OLYMPIC MEDALLIST MILES CHAMLEY-WATSON IS CHALLENGING STEREOTYPES AND DEFINING NEW RULES OF THE GAME WITH THE LATEST BUCHERER BLUE COLLABORATION

PANERAI MARINA TITANIO/DLC BUCHERER BLUE


BRITISH CONCEPTUAL ARTIST CLAUDIA MOSELEY CREATES NEW AND LIMITLESS CONSCIOUS EXPERIENCES HERE WITH THE NEW

PIAGET POSSESSION BUCHERER BLUE


MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 99


100 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


NAUTICAL PRECISION MEETS SWISS WATCHMAKING TRADITION – A STYLE ICON, LIMITED TO 365 PIECES

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN PORTUGIESER CHRONOGRAPH BUCHERER BLUE


STRATEGY DAVID CHOKRON

Chronode & Cyrus At the head of Chronode, Jean-François Mojon has participated in the design and production of dozens of watches that are regularly singled out for awards by the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Cyrus holds a place of its own among his activities.

102 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


How are Chronode and Cyrus connected ? The link has existed since 2011, by virtue of our shared financial partner. That means we’re connected but independent. Chronode has complete autonomy in terms of how we work with thirdparty clients, but we have a special relationship with Cyrus. How does your collaboration with Cyrus work ? We’re involved from the very beginning of the design and development process. We take responsibility for the whole product, meaning we work directly with the designers on the whole of the external casing of the watch. These are products that we don’t make every day ; they require specific solutions and have structural demands that we have to re-evaluate each time. We like a challenge, we thrive on the unknown, and this brand offers us that dynamic. There’s really nothing standard about it. It’s very rare to see a vertical tourbillon. How did that come about ? This is the first time we’ve put a vertical tourbillon in a central position, with a movement articulated entirely around it. Previous approaches have been to create an entirely vertical movement, or to put a vertical tourbillon on one side. By placing it in the center, it gives the watch a symmetry that is part of Cyrus’s identity. The brand already uses two crowns, positioned on either side of the case in the Klepcys collection, and here we also have retrograde hands on each side of the dial. What are the advantages of a vertical tourbillon ? The tourbillon was designed for pocket watches, which were worn in a vertical position. The tourbillon helped to average out the errors that occurred. When the tourbillon is flat, it no longer has any effect. In the case of a wristwatch, we noted that the typical position is more horizontal than vertical, so for it to make any sense the tourbillon ought to be in a vertical position. But these considerations of accuracy aren’t the only attraction of a tourbillon. A tourbillon is a symbol of horological mastery and, in this particular project, it represents an aesthetic goal. It spans the entire movement, it’s visible from all sides, and it gives volume to the domed crystal. Its position determines an entire aesthetic, a completely different approach. It has given us new possibilities for expression. Full interview available on worldtempus.com

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 103


ATMOSPHÈRE JORDY BELLIDO

Omega as time goes by

I

n 2019, Omega reopened its museum within “La Cité du Temps” in Bienne, Switzerland. Designed by award-winning architect Shigeru Ban, the entirely renovated and

updated building houses the expertise of one of the most prestigious Swiss watchmaking companies. Omega has robustly stood the test of time over successive decades and changing eras. Witness the fact that its founding dates back to the mid-19th century and that its history features remarkable events that remain firmly embedded in the collective memory. The entire history of the Manufacture can be found in this museum, where visitors enjoy a chance to discover and recall in an entertaining manner. This place mingling tradition and innovation presents the complete heritage of the Maison, from the very first moments of its creation with the opening of the small workshop of watchmaker Louis Brandt in the Swiss village of La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1848, all the way to the world record set in 2019 by the Seamaster Planet Ocean “Ultra Deep” in plunging to a depth of 10,928 meters.

104 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


The museum also highlights some of Omega’s key elements relating to world culture, while offering sophisticated and detailed decorative elements. Its participation in the Olympic Games as official timekeeper is represented by two race lanes complete with starting blocks and a stadium clock, which invite us to burst into a sprint and receive a photo on the finish line as a bonus ; as well as by a miniature bobsleigh track of which visitors can calculate the descent time. The museum also sends us into space, with the help of a lunar roving vehicle and an astronaut, who give one the distinct impression of having boarded a space rocket and stepping on the surface of the Moon after a successful landing. Nor should one forget the Seamaster model, which has accompanied the famous agent 007 in all his dangerous missions since Goldeneye in 1995, displayed alongside his Commander’s uniform. Within this historical setting, time appears to stand still so as to enable visitors to explore every detail that has contributed to the reputation of the Maison named after the last letter of the Greek alphabet. Due to the diversity of the mediums used and the large number of timepieces on display, this free-entrance museum will delight young and old as well as connoisseurs and aficionados. Through a fun visit combining exhibitions, films, videos, interactive experiences and even a giant walk-in Speedmaster model, relive the history of this renowned manufacturer. A custodian of Omega’s know-how and heritage, this contemporary museum is also a magnificent experience. MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 105


PHOTOSHOOT

LES GAGNANTES DU GPHG THE GPHG WINNERS JOY CORTHÉSY

A

night filled with glamour, congratulatory speeches and emotions, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève always proves to be a memorable evening. With all the nominated watches on exhibition at Geneva’s Musée d’art et d’histoire, we took the opportu-

nity to photograph some of the laureates in the museum’s grand halls before they were whisked off to Dubai Watch Week.

106 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


«AUGUILLE D’OR» GRAND PRIX

AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK SELFWINDING PERPETUAL CALENDAR ULTRA-THIN


DIVER’S WATCH PRIZE

SEIKO PROSPEX LX LINE DIVER’S


INNOVATION PRIZE

VACHERON CONSTANTIN TRADITONELLE TWIN BEAT PERPETUAL CALENDAR


AUDACITY PRIZE

URWERK AMC


MEN’S WATCH PRIZE

VOUTILAINEN 28TI


ZOOM FADI JAMIL

CHARRIOL

Boutique in Kingdom of Saudi Arabia Swiss world-renowned watch & jewelery brand CHARRIOL displays its “Art de vivre la Difference” at Red Sea Mall – Jeddah FOUNDED IN GENEVA IN 1983, CHARRIOL is now a Swiss watch brand that has

earned widespread fame on the international scene. It is distributed worldwide through around 3,200 retailers, 485 corners and 250 boutiques, mostly in Asia and the Middle East region. For more than 30 years AL-HUSSAINI Trading Co

is distributing the Brand as sole agent in Saudi Arabia. Today Mohammed Al

Hussani is proud to officially open the second Jeddah based CHARRIOL boutique, located at Red Sea Mall.

The new boutique is spread over 45 square metres. It has a broad store front

entirely in harmony with the brand’s firmly open-minded approach. The brand signature plum colour glows warmly against light-coloured backgrounds.

Functional and adaptable furniture provides a beautiful setting for presenting

products by categories or themes, in step with the seasons. The CHARRIOL art of living is expressed to the full. Dynamic attitude and exquisite femininity with a hint of glamour stage a fascinating show.

112 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


In its new “embassy”, CHARRIOL presents the entire range of its creations. Creations

intended mainly for women, but which are nonetheless mindful of men. The broad array of watches, accounting for a large proportion of sales, is complemented by jewellery collections in gold, silver or steel – original models designed by Coralie Charriol –

along with bags that vary from one season to another, writing instruments and other accessories highlighting the distinctive brand character. Devotees will find plenty of scope for asserting its style. A range of reasonably priced articles provides plenty of opportunities for impulse buying.

The Red Sea Mall CHARRIOL Boutique has been welcoming its customers since mid-

October 2019. At the official opening on November 10th 2019, an international throng of friends, partners and members of the press gathered around Mohammed Al-Hussaini,

President of Al-Hussaini Trading Co, that operates the Boutique, and the Brand’s freshly appointed chairwoman Coralie Charriol Paul, daughter of founder Philippe Charriol.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 113


Charriol Boutique Opening in Kuwait

114 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


Charriol Boutique Opening in Muscat, Oman

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 115


JET SET FADI JAMIL

RANGE ROVER VELAR

The Range Rover that changes everything

Range Rover Velar is a revolutionary member of the Range Rover family, sitting between Range Rover Evoque and Range Rover Sport. Taking glamour, modernity and elegance to an exceptional new level, it combines an emotionally charged DNA and unquestionable design pedigree.

116 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 117


COMPELLING DESIGN Range Rover Velar‘s design is revolutionary. Its elegant sides and exemplary range of standard features such as flush deployable door handles and integrated rear spoiler all improve aerodynamic efficiency, while the foil-stamped grille gives the vehicle‘s front profile an undeniable presence. Sleek LED headlights and rear lights are also standard. Matrix LED and Matrix-laser LED headlights are available as an option. See pages 8 and 36 for details.

INTELLIGENT VERSATILITY To make your journey even more comfortable, Range Rover Velar provides 970mm head clearance and 43mm knee clearance for occupants, along with exemplary loadspace of 673 litres. Optional Electronic Air Suspension1 enables automatic access height for elegant entry and the option of powered gesture tailgate allows simple loading with hands-free access. See page 38 for details.

DISTINCTIVE INTERIOR AMBIANCE Range Rover Velar’s cabin minimises wind and road noise through the use of aerodynamic undertrays and acoustically

118 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION


laminated front glazing. Rear passengers can benefit from

Two seamlessly integrated 10» Touchscreens and minimalist

optional reclining rear seats, optional Four-zone Climate Control

controls – fitted as standard – give easy control of the latest

and two optional 8» Rear Seat Entertainment screens. See page

advanced technology. As the vehicle is started and comes to

11 for details.

life, the revolutionary Touch Pro Duo technology reinforces the overall sense of luxury and innovation. Everything has

DESIGN-ENABLED TECHNOLOGIES

been designed and crafted to help you and your passengers

The standard Touch Pro Duo infotainment system makes

arrive relaxed. The twin sliding armrests, which operate

life more connected and entertaining. The system seamlessly

independently, help maximise your individual comfort.

integrates two 10» high-definition Touchscreens, to enable

Beautiful materials, including optional Windsor leather

you to make a phone call on one screen while navigating

with a signature Cut Diamond pattern throughout the

on the other. Touch Pro Duo is complemented with full-

cabin, add a contemporary twist. Modern premium textiles,

colour Head-up Display, an optional state-of-the-art system,

expertly constructed in collaboration with Europe’s leading

providing sharp graphics and optional Interactive Driver

manufacturer of high- quality and design led textiles, Kvadrat,

Display with configurable touch steering wheel controls. See

are offered as an alternative to leather.

page 21 for details.

The elevated position of our renowned Sports Command Driving Position enables you to see further down the road and

CELEBRATION OF INTERIOR DESIGN Range Rover Velar’s cabin exudes elegant simplicity. The familiar Range Rover interior design architecture, with its

view your surroundings with greater clarity, so you stay in control no matter what the conditions or traffic. The option of Configurable Ambient Interior Lighting in a

strong, elegant horizontal lines, blends seamlessly with

choice of 10 colours creates the right mood, whilst the optional

innovative features to give a feeling of calm, and enhance the

sliding panoramic or fixed panoramic roof floods the cabin with

driving experience.

light, bringing the outside in.

MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 119





Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.