Interview Patrick Pruniaux
CEO, Girard-Perregaux & Ulysse Nardin
FINE WATCH CLUB Limited series and events each month
Mauron Musy
SPOTLIGHT Jaquet Droz
ARMURE MU 03 GMT ME No 30 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION 2019
30
9 771660 110613
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Now open for reservation. Watches will be available on July 2019. Orders will be on a first-in first-served policy.
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ALEXANDRE C watch collection
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3/6/19 12
EDITORIAL WINTER 2019
L
ast month in Dubai, one of the largest horological forums, Dubai Watch Week, took place. A unique week consisting of watch education, hands- on demonstrations and new product unveilings, Dubai Watch Week is hosted by family-run Seddiqi Holding - The largest retailer of fine watches in the region.
This year, the fourth edition drew hundreds of watch lovers as well as international press to the show; while the visitors were predominately men, a host of women also attended; some who have developed a unique passion of the world of watches.
Dubai Watch Week is dedicated to uniting and growing the global watch community for the preservation and transmission of Horological knowledge. Dubai Watch Week not only promotes dialogue and fosters creativity but it also contributes to the growth of the creative economy.
Until next issue,
FADI JAMIL I Publisher, Editor-in-Chief
GMT MIDDLE EAST TEAM Publisher / Editor-in-Chief : FADI JAMIL | fadi.jamil@gmtmag-me.com Graphic Designer: KYLE EVIDENTE | creative@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Coordinator : KIM DAGOHOY | kim.dagohoy@gmtmag-me.com Marketing Manager : IVY TRAZONA | ivy@gmtmag-me.com Any advertising inquiry email us at : info@gmtmag-me.com
GMT Middle East is published by FJ Communications FZE - Creative City, Fujairah, U.A.E. GMT Middle East is Published bi-monthly Annual Subscription distributed by Dar Al Hikma © Any and even partial reproduction of the texts and photos published in GMT Middle East is strictly prohibited without the publisher’s prior written consent.
34
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
GMT MIDDLE EAST NO30 | WINTER 2019
We assemble every single watch twice. Because perfection takes time.
For us, perfection is a matter of principle. This is why, on principle, we
parts are cleaned and decorated by hand with finishing and polishing
craft all timepieces with the same care and assemble each watch twice.
techniques, followed by the final assembly procedure. This assures
Thus, after the LANGE 1 TIME ZONE has been assembled for the first
long-term functional integrity and the immaculacy of all artisanal fin-
time and precisely adjusted, it is taken apart again. The movement
ishes. Even if this takes a little more time. www.alange-soehne.com
You are cordially invited to discover the collection at:
A. LANGE & SÖHNE BOUTIQUE DUBAI The Dubai Mall · Tel. +971 4 325 39 23 · dubai@lange-soehne.ae
CONTENTS WINTER 2019
46
72 34 EDITORIAL 36 CONTENTS 40 CONTRIBUTORS
BUSINESS 42 HOT NEWS 72 INTERVIEW | Patrick Pruniaux | CEO, Girard-Perregaux & Ulysse Nardin
120 ATMOSPHÈRE | The Akrivia atelier
84 NEW RELEASES
LIFESTYLE
66 COVER STORY
62 EDITOR’S PICK
MAURON MUSY
New brands
ARMURE, the ultimate watch conception
64 EDITOR’S PICK
70 SPOTLIGHT Jaquet Droz Spotlight on the Grande Seconde Skelet-One
In the heart of time
112 PORTFOLIO ONLY WATCH
84 GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL
The stars of the Monaco Yacht Show
Christmas magic and brilliant masterpieces
100 FINE WATCH CLUB | Limited series
88 BOVET 1822
and events each month
VIRTUOSO X
104 12TH ART
BOVET 1822 invite you to Excellence and Proximity
92 MORITZ GROSSMANN The Moritz Grossmann HAMATIC – self-winding watch with hammer system
108 FINE WATCH CLUB The collectors’ grail
122 ZOOM
96 MORITZ GROSSMANN Homage to Moritz Grossmann – vintage timepiece in honour of the master
36
| GPHG and Dubai Watch
Week | SEND WATCHMAKING TRAVELING
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
66
rjwatches.com RJXWATCHES
AHMED SEDDIQI & SONS Dubai Mall, Mall of the Emirates, Mirdif City Center, Wafi AL MANARA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY Marina Mall, The Galleria Sowwah, Yas Mall
CONTENTS WINTER 2019
76 Focus
Close-up view of 8 new releases
76 A. LANGE & SÖHNE An odyssey
77 AUDEMARS PIGUET Classical music
78 ZENITH El Primero’s REBIRTH
79 TRILOBE A bespoke starry sky
80 ARMIN STROM All things equal
81 JAEGER-LECOULTRE Such a splendid sound
82 MIH Gaïa jubilee, future of the past
83 PATEK PHILIPPE The exception that will become the rule
81 83
79 38
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
CONTRIBUTORS
Under the guidance of GMT’s Chief Editor, Brice Lechevalier, the following writers have made expert contributions to this Swiss and thus necessarily international edition.
Brice Lechevalier Involved in all aspects of the magazine, the founder seeks to convey a sense of pleasure to readers through the various articles.
40
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Cloé Mugny
Marie De Pimodan
Christophe Persoz
A member of the GMT Publishing team, this translator by training contributes to the Editor’s Picks column.
An expert watch journalist who presents new models as well as handling the Craftsmanship column.
This experienced watchmaker analyzes a model that he wears for an entire week before delivering his technical and aesthetic verdict.
Paul O’Neil
Michèle Brunner
David Chokron
The editor-in-chief of WorldTempus. com shares his insights on our feature articles based on his website’s coverage of the subject.
An experienced member of the GMT Publishing editorial team, she reports on brand events and products.
An expert watch journalist, he provides content for our Tech Insights column as well as presenting the latest new models.
Camille Guille
Edouard Haegi
Serge Panczuk
With a pseudo like perpetual.girl, how could one not take an interest in the instagram accounts she recommends ?
Edouard Haegi is our inhouse photographer/videomaker, who also handles the Watch Photo Awards.
This California-based collector is also a keen traveler who shares his extremely personal vision of what a watch is and what it “tells” us.
ADORED F E E LIN G L I K E T H E ONLY PE R S ON I N TH E WOR LD
+971 4 364 7555 jumeirah.com
ABU DHABI
|
BAHRAIN LONDON
|
CHINA |
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MALDIVES
DUBAI |
|
FRANKFURT
MALLORCA
|
KUWAIT
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Hublot and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons launch the Hublot Classic Fusion special edition bronze anticlockwise The fusion of a timeless material and a non-traditional mechanism. BUILDING ON THEIR SUCCESSFUL, shared “Vision” of being
anticlockwise movement inspires the wearer to take a step back
different and unique, Hublot and UAE partners Ahmed Seddiqi
in time and admire the UAE’s impressive path that lead it to its
& Sons launched an all-new timepiece on November 22: the
current greatness.
Classic Fusion Special Edition Bronze Anticlockwise. This is Hublot’s first-ever watch made fully from bronze, with a grey dial, and featuring an anticlockwise movement, another first for the watchmaking brand. David Tedeschi, Regional Director for Latin America &
THE ART OF FUSION IN MATERIALS: BRONZE Hublot cut its Classic Fusion case out of bronze, a material created over 10,000 years ago through a fusion of copper and other metals such as aluminium, manganese, nickel or zinc.
Caribbean and Middle East & Africa, and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons
The alloy has the advantages of non-magnetism, resistance to
Chief Commercial Officer Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi
corrosion and a distinctive appearance through its unmistakable
presented the piece to press and collectors during Dubai Watch
hue. As bronze is covered with a natural patina that protects it
Week 2019.
and lends it an unparalleled finish, it gives this special edition a beautiful color that contrasts with the grey dial which positions
TURNING BACK TIME Designed and produced at the Hublot Manufacture in
An homage to the avant-garde spirit of Hublot, the highly
Switzerland, the Classic Fusion Special Edition Bronze
anticipated watch with its grey calf and gold stitched strap is
Anticlockwise turns back time with its 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 O’clock
limited to 100 pieces, a collector’s edition that defies the test of
Indian numbers indexes positioned backwards on the dial,
time and tradition.
and its hands turning counter-clockwise. The self-winding
42
its 3N gold-plated appliques in an unusual direction.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Paris 8ème
Grand Powers 52 rue François 1er - Paris 8ème Book your stay directly on hotelgrandpowersparis.com +33 (0)1 47 23 91 05
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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
TAG Heuer launches 2 new timepieces in honor of Formula 1 legend Ayrton Senna DUBAI, U.A.E – 26TH NOVEMBER 2019: To pay tribute to one of the
crystal caseback, through which the powerful in-house COSC-
most renowned Formula One champions and mark 25 years since
certified manufacture Heuer 02T movement can be seen. This
his untimely death, TAG Heuer has launched two timepieces that
edition is limited to just 65 pieces, in recognition of the number of
celebrate Ayrton Senna by including design features reminiscent
pole positions Senna racked up during his historic career.
of his preferred watch style and love of his home country, Brazil. As much a legend in TAG Heuer’s past as in the sport of Formula One racing, Senna was the face of the avant-garde watchmaker’s
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Calibre 16 Ayrton Senna Special Edition 2019 This 25-year tribute edition features an engraving of Senna’s
first “Don’t Crack Under Pressure” campaign in 1991 – a fitting
iconic helmet on its steel screw-down caseback and his name
role for a racer as ambitious, fearless and committed as the
in white at 1 o’clock on the fixed polished black ceramic bezel
Brazilian driver. Now, a quarter of a century after his tragic
with a tachymeter scale. This timepiece is fitted with a sporty
death, the partnership lives on in two stunning new timepieces.
S-shaped bracelet, which Senna was personally fond of, and also features a driver’s extension to allow it to be worn over
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Ayrton Senna Special Edition 2019
a fierce racing style with a punch of red on the lacquered
chronograph features a matt black ceramic case and matching
indexes, central seconds hand and counter hands. White
tachymeter bezel and is subtly accentuated by the yellow and
subdial counters at 6 and 9 o’clock and a black subdial counter
green colours of the Brazilian flag. There is green stitching on the
at 12 o’clock stand out from the anthracite sunray brushed
black rubber and leather strap and a yellow “S” for Senna on the
dial. Powering this stainless-steel timepiece is the automatic-
chronograph counter. “SENNA” is written in yellow on the fixed
winding chronograph Calibre 16.
black ceramic tachymeter bezel. A black tourbillon can be admired
44
a racing suit. The limited-edition 44 mm timepiece exhibits
The 45 mm TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T automatic
These tributes to the distinguished driver combine daring
at the 6 o’clock position. A stylised yellow and green image of Senna
design, innovative features and high-performance style – ideal
in his instantly recognisable helmet is engraved on the sapphire
for individuals who choose to live life in the fast lane.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Roger Dubuis Honors UAE National Day with exclusive Limited Edition Excalibur ROGER DUBUIS pays tribute to the United Arab Emirates 48th National Day with an exclusive Excalibur Spider Skeleton automatic. The UAE Limited Edition celebrates the nation’s heritage and its visionary leaders, and demonstrates the Manufacture’s expertise of architectural and technical mechanics, stamped with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. With only 28 pieces available globally, the exceptional edition is inspired by the UAE’s flag colors which represent long-held values, courage and pride. The Limited Edition Excalibur embodies parallels between Roger Dubuis and the UAE, merging tradition and a forward-thinking mentality. The maison strikes a balance between meticulous watchmaking expertise and avant-garde design, whilst the Emiratis carry forward their rich heritage, allowing their legacies to live through them. The automatic movement is highlighted by the astral skeleton structure and the micro‑rotor, offering a spectacular view on the mechanism. Not only aesthetics, the micro‑rotor offers a winding ratio as good as the best single‑direction big oscillating weight. This edition has been personalized with the mark of all Roger Dubuis contemporary skeleton movements: the black skeleton flange, the star-shaped skeleton bridge and the skeleton hangs in 18k gold with PVD coating. The green strap is adorned with red stitching, all details proudly representing the national colours of the UAE flag.
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
Celebrate the Holiday Season with the Automatique Réserve Linesport for Him and the Élégante Titalyt® for Her HIM: The Automatique Réserve with 44 mm case in Titanium, bezel with ceramic inlay and numbers engraved in the mass emphasize the contemporary sportive aspect of the F.P.Journe lineSport. Anthracite dial with luminescent points and Aluminum alloy movement. HER: The élégante, gem of technical innovation, provides autonomy of more than 8 years in daily use and up to 18 years with sleeping mode. The electromechanical movement stops after 35 minutes motionless to save its energy and the hands stop turning. The micro-processor continues to calculate time and as soon as the watch is back in motion, it sets itself automatically to the exact time. Magical! Flat Tortue case in Titalyt® 40 mm set with 38 diamonds, rubber strap available in 6 different colors.
48
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
K
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HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Audemars Piguet Awarded Three Prizes including the “Aiguille D’or” at Geneva’s Grand Prix D’horologerie 2019 LE BRASSUS, NOVEMBER 8, 2019 – Swiss Haute Horlogerie
Calendar Ultra-Thin is the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual
Manufacturer Audemars Piguet was awarded the “Aiguille d’Or”
calendar wristwatch.
Grand Prix for its Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar
normally arranged on three levels have been merged into one single
Geneva on 7th November 2019. The Manufacture also received
layer, leading to the development of two patented innovations.
two additional prizes rewarding the technical and aesthetic
The end-of-the-month cam has been integrated to the date wheel,
complexity of its Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin and its Code
while the month cam has been combined to the month wheel. The
11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie.
geometry of each component has also been optimised from the
Audemars Piguet’s Chief Executive Officer François-Henry Bennahmias joined numerous Haute Horlogerie enthusiasts at the
onset, reducing adjustment and assembly time. The Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin marks
Theatre du Leman for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie award ceremony,
a turning point for Audemars Piguet, paving the way for a new
which concluded the exclusive road show of the 84 pre-selected
generation of complicated watches balancing refined aesthetics,
timepieces across the world.
optimum ergonomics, technical complexity, ancestral savoir-faire
The “Aiguilles d’Or” Grand Prix rewarding the most impressive watch across all categories was handed to François-
50
To reach such a thinness, the perpetual calendar functions,
Ultra-Thin at the 19th edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie in
and contemporary lifestyle. During his speech, François-Henry Bennahmias saluted the
Henry Bennahmias at the end of the ceremony for the
dedicated work of Audemars Piguet’s designers, engineers,
Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, the
watchmakers and craftspeople who consistently challenge
Manufacture’s latest technological milestone launched earlier
themselves to push further the limits of their craft: “It is
this year. With a movement of 2.89 mm in thickness and a
thanks to you all that we are here tonight and able to create
case of 6.3 mm in height, the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual
extraordinary timepieces!”
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Chopard launches the Alpine Eagle Collection in Dubai AT THE DUBAI WATCH WEEK, Chopard along with partner
for watch collectors, brands, watchmakers and the media to
Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons introduced the brand-new Alpine Eagle
interact and share knowledge.
collection, during an exclusive event on Thursday November 21st at the Alpine Eagle Exhibition area, with the presence of Chopard Co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. The event
ALPINE EAGLE, THE REBIRTH OF A WATCH ICON Contemporary, refined and assertive, the new Alpine
featured over 150 guests including Arab celebrities Dhafer
Eagle sports chic timepiece collection is a state-of-the-art
L’Abidine and Wissam Breidy. The launch evening was lively
reinterpretation of the St. Moritz, the first watch created in
with jazz music vibes by Zero Funk band, followed by a unique
1980 by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, now co-president of Chopard.
poetic performance of the Art of Spoken words by Jaysus Zain
Imagined and personally designed by him, Alpine Eagle is
and closing the night on the beats of DJ Karrouhat.
driven by his passion for the Alps and by the lofty power of the eagle that reigns supreme there. Crafted from an exclusive,
ALPINE EAGLE EXHIBITION AREA For the first time, Chopard is present at the Dubai Watch
A223, it beats to the rhythm of a Chopard chronometer-certified
Week in a private exhibition area dedicated to the Alpine Eagle
movement. Bearing testament to Chopard’s ethical approach,
Collection. The 485 square meters, meticulously designed
Alpine Eagle gives the Maison an opportunity to reveal its new
stand-alone area, takes the guests in an immersive journey to
commitment to protecting the Alpine environment through the
discover the unique Alpine Eagle environment.
launch of the Eagle Wings Foundation – of which Karl-Friedrich
Launched in 2015 by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the Dubai
52
ultra-resistant and light-reflecting metal named Lucent Steel
Scheufele is a founding member. Alpine Eagle is dedicated to
Watch Week is a global platform dedicated to the preservation
contemporary eagles, the aspiring men who outperform in their
of horological culture and heritage. By creating one of the
daily lives and whose vision inspires and elevates. With foresight
largest non-commercial events for the international watch
and determination, they act on the challenges of tomorrow and
community, the exhibition provides an intimate environment
are innately aware of the importance of environmental issues.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
DEFI MILLENNIUM
A DISTINCT SENSE OF STYLE LIGHTWEIGHT. HIGH PERFORMANCE.
WWW.ST-DUPONT.COM
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
When a meteorite meets high watchmaking: Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new version of the master grande tradition gyrotourbillon 3, combining traditional artistic crafts with the rarely seen craft of meteorite inlay ENCAPSULATING the core values of La Grande Maison, JaegerLeCoultre presents a new version of the Master Grande Tradition
But still, Jaeger-LeCoultre wanted to do more. And so, this
Gyrotourbillon 3, which marries the technical tour-de-force
new version of Gyrotourbillon 3 harnesses the exceptional
of its signature multi-axis tourbillon to the finest of artistic
skills of the Manufacture’s Rare HandcraftsTM (Métiers
craftsmanship.
Rares®) artisans to elevate the rare and precious timepiece to
In 2013, Jaeger-LeCoultre first introduced the Master
a new level. With various elements of the dial showcasing the
Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 to mark the Maison’s 180th
traditional Rare HandcraftsTM of hand-guillochage, engraving
anniversary. Combining a third-generation interpretation of
and grand feu enamel, this new model introduces the rarely
the Gyrotourbillon with an intriguing and highly unusual
seen craft of meteorite inlay.
instantaneous digital display chronograph, it represents
54
mechanical sophistication of the highest order.
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
Different material. Glorification of the mechanism. A tribute to italian style. Luminor due, the evolution of the species. A challenging achievement of the new millennium, in keeping with the Panerai character, the Luminor Due continues its process of evolutionary adaptation. Technical, functional and formal. A landmark. PERPETUATING A TRADITIONAL aesthetic signature by projecting
of its unequivocal personality, its formal sophistication and its
it into the spirit of today. Maintaining creativity as it takes a
eclectic Italian style, the Luminor Due is continuing its bold
new approach. In keeping with the genetics of the Luminor
exploration of unknown territories. And through structural
Due family, Panerai remains unconventional in its attitude and
improvements its range of features is becoming wider. In terms
its predisposition. The new watches have been mechanically
of materials, a Luminor Due 38 mm (PAM00926) appears for
redesigned in terms of size and consequently they are
the first time in titanium. As for combinations, a Luminor Due
innovative. Naturally inclined to change, today the Luminor
– 42 mm (PAM00927) is the first model of its size to associate a
Due with its new content is acquiring a more pronounced
titanium case with an automatic mechanical movement. So far
identity. Leading the way, on the one hand there are three
as solutions are concerned, the Luminor Due GMT Power reserve
new models sharing the brushed titanium of the case and the
– 45 mm (PAM000964) is Panerai’s first “45 mm” watch, and it
blue satiné soleil finish of the dial. On the other hand there
has an interchangeable strap with the Quick Release system.
are three updated models of varied character, embodying a
informal character, is however the key to interpreting the three
in being fitted with mechanical Manufacture movements and
new Luminor Due watches perfected in the 38 and 42 mm sizes
quickly changeable straps. Each one is original, and therefore
and offered with a stainless steel or GoldtechTM case. Common
part of a new chapter in the modern history of the brand.
to all are the radically revised dial designs, sophisticated and
Substantially thinner while completely respecting the classic
elegant with printed Arabic numerals and numbers while fully
design. A perfect historic compromise, the elegant proportions
realising Panerai’s iconic level of visual language. The new style
of the Luminor Due now appear in three striking new models,
is complemented by the wide choice of personal leather straps
which confirm their innovative identity through an iconic dial
which is available.
on which only the Panerai logo appears. With the clear message
56
Distinctive refinement, expressed in a more evidently
consistent array of style and versatility. All of them are united
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
A. Lange & Söhne Boutique Dubai with new look THE 24TH OF OCTOBER 1994 is a special date in the history of
mezzanine floor, which acts like a room in a room. The
A. Lange & Söhne. Twenty-five years ago, on this day, the first
fully glazed walls can be transformed electronically from
four wristwatches of the new era were presented in Dresden.
transparent to milky white to create a protected atmosphere
In the meantime, the brand has again become a major player
for confidential conversations. Much like a conning bridge,
in international precision watchmaking and has a global
the lounge overlooks the centre of the sales room. From here,
presence – at the Dubai Mall, for instance, with its own
everything is visible: the counter where customers interact
boutique since 2012. Following extensive renovation work, the
with the staff members, the wall showcases that set the stage
venue was reo-pened on this special date.
for the precision-engineered masterpieces, and the “Wall of
With an area of over 145 square metres on two levels,
components integrated in the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL
largest boutiques. The spacious rooms provide ideal
“Pour le Mérite”, the TRIPLE SPLIT, and the DATOGRAPH
prerequisites for a new interior architecture concept
PERPETUAL TOURBILLON.
characterised by openness, clarity, and eloquence. A large
Authentic materials and elaborate surface treatments pay
glass façade exposes the showroom, inspiring passersby to
tribute to the type of craftsmanship celebrated by Lange.
enter the boutique. Perpendicularly inter-locking volumes
Details such as the miniaturised replica of the five-minute
offer stimulating perspectives and subdivide the space into
clock from the Semper Opera House in Dresden refer to
various functional islands.
important moments in the history of the brand that be-gan
A decisive design element is the VIP lounge on the
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Parts”. This vast showcase exhibits hun-dreds of hand-finished
A. Lange & Söhne Dubai ranks among the manufactory’s
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
almost 175 years ago.
HOT NEWS FADI JAMIL
The Breitling Aviator 8 Mosquito commemorates De Havilland’s Iconic Plane WITH ITS NEW AVIATOR 8 MOSQUITO WATCH, Breitling has
Department and those of the Ref. 765 AVI – the Co-Pilot –
drawn on the design of the onboard clocks designed by its
whose bold look, rotating bezel, and impressive legibility with
Huit Aviation Department in the 1930s and 1940s and from
oversized Arabic numerals made it a favorite among aviators.
its renowned reference 765 AVI, the highly legible watch
Mosquito, a British aircraft whose lightweight wooden
plane constructed almost entirely of wood, the de Havilland
construction made it one of the fastest planes in the skies
Mosquito. Its speed and maneuverability contributed to its
in the early 1940s. Breitling CEO Georges Kern says: “The
incredible success and improbable range of roles, including
de Havilland Mosquito is a truly unique and iconic piece of
unarmed light bomber, day fighter, night fighter, and even
aviation history. It was distinguished by incredibly innovative
photographic reconnaissance aircraft.
design and an ingenious use of materials. Our Aviator 8
The Breitling Aviator 8 Mosquito wears its dual design influences proudly: it recalls at once the design values of the onboard instruments designed by Breitling’s Huit Aviation
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Breitling created the watch to honor the de Havilland
known as the Co-Pilot. The Aviator 8 Mosquito honors a
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
Mosquito is an affectionate reminder of one of the world’s true aviation successes.”
EDITOR’S PICK JORDY BELLIDO
New brands When it comes to new releases, the watch industry remains engaged in a process of perpetual self-reinvention. Whether new shapes, different materials, innovative displays or interchangeable elements, watches evolve in step with the times and with society. Succumb to the charms of these original timepieces that challenge conventional watchmaking codes.
BASTIEN CHEVALIER
TRILOBE Les Matinaux
Mbch
HEGID
Five
Vision Officieuse
GIS/stock.adobe.com
YVAN MONNET
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LE CIRQUE: The greatest culinary show on earth. A timeless classic originating from New York, experience Le Cirque's famed French cuisine, with a twist of Italian flair, at the sleek and elevated setting of Dubai.
The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC For restaurant reservations, email difcrestaurants@ritzcarlton.com or call +971 4 372 2323
EDITOR’S PICK JORDY BELLIDO
In the heart of time Haute Horlogerie consistently demonstrates its creativity in striving to remain at the very peak of its art. Just as the eyes are the mirror of the soul, the openworked structure of timepieces ingeniously lays bare the detailed intricacies of their inner working. Transparency thus reveals the beating heart of such creations.
ULYSSE NARDIN BREGUET
Skeleton X Magma
Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395
ZENITH Defy El Primero Fusée Tourbillon
FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT Tourbillon Perpetual
Anthony Brown /stock.adobe.com
Calendar Manufacture
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
COVER STORY FADI JAMIL
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MAURON MUSY
ARMURE, the ultimate watch conception Innovative Watch Engineering It took us three years of research and development, backed by unfailing optimism and tenacity, to develop the nO-RingÂŽ technology. A truly disruptive innovation, this patented system relegates O-ring seals to the rank of historical curiosity. Based on the principle of mechanical sealing technology, this 100% Swiss Crafted device guarantees absolute security while avoiding the need for costly recurrent maintenance service. The watch industry had seen no significant breakthroughs in this field for over 130 years.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 67
ARMURE MU03 CASE : Grade 5 Titanium, Ø 44 mm
Diameter, Sapphire, glareproofed Crystal, and Transparent, in glareproofed sapphire crystal caseback MOVEMENT : Calibre MM01 MECHANISM : Mechanical movement Swiss lever escapement Bidirectional automatic winding DIAL : Black beadblasted matt texture, Polished champlevé hour-markers and cartouches, hollowed by chemical engraving Hour-markers STRAP: Natural HNBR rubber or Rawhide Timberland calfskin and smooth calfskin Leather WATER RESISTANCE: 30 ATM (300 metres) nO-Ring® by MAURON MUSY Patented direct mechanical sealing technology
he robust and determined ARMURE model stems from
T
The ARMURE is equipped with Calibre 39, one of the best-
functional analysis which makes users’ needs the core
performing self-winding movements on the market. Endowed
concern. Working within their independent laboratory,
with a 65-hour power reserve and beating at 4 Hz (28,800
engineers Eric Mauron and Christophe Musy have entirely
vph), it features a modular construction enabling a wide range
rethought the concept of water resistance. In this model,
of variations including chronograph, GMT, moon phase and
function creates design, since aesthetic and technical factors are
small seconds versions. 100% of its components are made in
inseparably entwined.
Switzerland.
The unusual, extremely technical case conceals innovations
Available in steel and titanium, ARMURE offers a broad choice
never previously applied to the watch industry. The fruit of
of dials and finishing. Entirely produced and assembled in
high-precision workmanship, it comprises 36 elements compared
Switzerland, all models are delivered with two straps: one in
with only ten or so for traditional models. A degree of complexity
leather and the other in rubber.
that for the first time makes it possible to apply the principle of mechanical sealing technology to a watch. Three years of research were required to develop the nO-Ring®
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NO-RING® TECHNOLOGY Keenly aware of these imperfections, Eric Mauron and
technology, by which two clamp braces – the caseband and bezel
Christophe Musy worked for more than three years on a solution
– tense the various case elements together via specially in-house-
entirely unprecedented in the watch industry. Experienced
made satellite compression springs. Dedicated surface treatments
engineers driven by the same thirst for innovation and discovery,
ensure unfailing, gasket-free water resistance.
they have combined three existing principles culminating in the
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
patented nO-Ring® technology: mechanical sealing technology,
bracelet – is now taken into consideration. The Swiss value
the clamp brace, and the satellite compression spring. A knock-on
requirement has also risen to 60%, while taking R&D expenses
solution whose brilliance lies in miniaturising and adapting this
into consideration for the calculation.
device to watchmaking: a world first and a true paradigm shift in
As far as MAURON MUSY is concerned, something initially
the field of containment, propelling the mechanical function of
designed to be a guarantee of quality has come to betoken
water resistance to the status of “watch exterior complication.”
considerable hypocrisy. Not only does the phrasing of the law leave producers considerable room for manoeuvre, but controls are
100% SWISS CRAFTED
also virtually non-existent. This means that one and all are free to
MANIFESTO FOR AUTHENTIC SWISS WATCHMAKING
continue producing a substantial proportion of their components
MAURON MUSY watches are not stamped with the inscription ‘Swiss made’, but instead proudly bear the ‘Swiss Crafted’ label certifying that 100% of the watch has been developed, manufactured and crafted in Switzerland. From 1971 and until recently, the only criterion required to
abroad (sometimes as much as 80% come from Asia) while continuing to carry the ‘Swiss made’ label. This is a practice that MAURON MUSY refuses to adopt. All elements of its watches – movement, case and dial – are entirely developed, produced and assembled in Switzerland. No value-
obtain the ‘Swiss made’ geographical appellation applied to
related considerations are taken into account, simply because the
the movement only: 50% of its value had to stem from Swiss
entire range of skills originate within the Swiss watch industry.
expertise. Since 2017, a new federal law reinforces the definition
With ‘Swiss Crafted’, MAURON MUSY is defending far more than
of the label, since the entire watch – apart from its strap or
a label, but indeed a full-fledged industrial code of ethics.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 69
SPOTLIGHT BRICE LECHEVALIER
Jaquet Droz
Spotlight on the Grande Seconde Skelet-One
Grande Seconde Skelet-One Gold CASE : 18K white or red gold, sapphire crystal and back, water-
resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 41mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding skeleton movement (Caliber JD 2663 SQ, 68h power reserve), double barrel, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, black treatment, 18K red or white gold oscillating weight engraved with individual number FUNCTIONS : Offcentered hours and minutes, large off-centered seconds DIAL : sapphire, 18K white gold hour circle STRAP : rolled-edge black alligator strap, 18K red or white gold pin buckle
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Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic CASE : polished and satin-brushed, sapphire
crystal and back, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 41.5mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding skeleton movement (Caliber JD 2663 SQ, 68h power reserve), double barrel, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, black treatment, 18K red gold oscillating weight engraved with individual number FUNCTIONS : Off-centered hours and minutes, large off-centered seconds DIAL : sapphire, black ceramic hour circle STRAP : rolled-edge blue alligator strap, folding clasp in ceramic and black PVD-coated steel
A
fter celebrating its 280th anniversary last year, the brand with its incredible automatons is playing the transparency card with its iconic collection, the
Grande Seconde. In these two versions transforming this ageless cult model, the result is spectacular. Unveiling its movement for the first time in its history, the Grande Seconde Skelet-One allows light to pour in from both sides of the case. Not only through the splendid openworking of the thus ‘liberated’ movement, but also through its oscillating weight and its fully skeletonized mainplate providing a view of almost the entire automatic caliber, with its double barrel featuring a silicon balance-spring and pallet horns. This airy spirit is reinforced by the suspended sapphire dial, which seems to capture the light, and by the removal of the casing ring, which accentuates the overall sense of openness. This new stylistic approach naturally respects the aesthetic signature of the double 8-shaped dial that is part of Jaquet Droz’ DNA. The expertise of its artisans is applied to the finishes highlighted by the openworking and is also revealed through subtle details such as the indexed screws on the hour circle (blued in the ceramic version), which are elegantly oriented towards the dial center. Devotees of precious metals and Roman numerals will undoubtedly opt for the gold model, available in white and red gold. Its ceramic interpretation displays a radically different personality whose modernity and more technical nature will appeal to connoisseurs as well as avant-garde or non-conformist individuals. The visually seductive refinement of the decoration notably includes the vertically brushed hour circle, as well as the ceramic case with its satin-brushed top and polished sides. Jaquet Droz also chose ceramic in creating its Skelet-One unique piece for Only Watch (see page 88), which is set to win collectors’ hearts.
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INTERVIEW BY BRICE LECHEVALIER
Patrick Pruniaux CEO, Girard-Perregaux & Ulysse Nardin You took the reins of GP a year ago ; how is the brand doing ? First of all, it had good foundations that I inherited from my predecessors, especially in terms of products. While we began by strengthening the management, Girard-Perregaux can rely on passionate personnel at all levels and there is a powerful team spirit. We have done a lot of work on the brand over the past six months, of which only part is as yet visible. We had to conduct an analysis of the brand and then ensure it was expressing itself in the right way. For example, the logo has evolved and is now simplified and modernized with the bridge summing up 225 years of history, expertise in chronometry, as well as its exclusive nature that we must perpetuate, rather than seeking to make it universal. Moreover, the vast majority of our sales occur in high-quality points of sale run by major retailers such as Bucherer, Wempe and The Hour Glass. We are committed to maintaining and strengthening our status as a loyal and stable partner and do not intend to open any own-name stores.
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Which are GP’s strongest assets in appealing to today’s customers ? We are very confident that the products are all in place. You may recall our Laureato Carbon Glass concept presented at SIHH 2019 ? We are pleased to state that we have sufficiently mastered it to launch a limited series of 100 chronographs with a very good price-quality ratio : the Laureato Absolute Rock. This is a new type of ultra-resistant and lightweight carbon that no longer requires a container to ensure its water resistance. Its spectacular blue and black veins make it truly unique. We are going to release some very exciting products. The brand values are well perceived by connoisseurs, but end customers in general probably need more explanations in this respect. GirardPerregaux stands out for the harmony it achieves between watchmaking content and design, which remains at the heart of its DNA, as well as for its relaxed Italian elegance. Today it
“We are increasing the consistency of Girard-Perregaux and strengthening its message.”
is interesting to belong to a club of brands that are exclusive in terms of production, doubtless more so than those that sell a million units. When I see someone wearing a Girard-Perregaux, I see a connoisseur’s choice. Not producing too much is an asset and it is up to us to explain this brand strength. What will GP look like in 2020 and will that be a turning point for the brand ? Girard-Perregaux will assert itself. As I said earlier, the products are good and there is no need for a new collection ; all we have to do is develop those that already exist by building on our strengths : consolidate our pillars through certain variations ; enhance stability ; and tell our story. We can actually choose to focus on two geometrically spectacular elements : the bridges, particularly in the actual Bridge collection, and the octagon of the Laureato c ollection. In my opinion, these two collections represent the brand on a very powerful level, which needs to be worked on even more, in a traditional yet also contemporary way. The Quasar model from the Bridge collection presented at Miami Watches & Wonders with its sapphire case illustrates this desire ; it was initiated by the previous team but I find it very interesting. In fact, Stefano Macaluso*, who has become a friend, continues to cooperate closely with Girard-Perregaux and we are working on some projects together aimed at renewing ties with the brand’s roots. In parallel, we have invested massively in the manufacture, as well as in the Villa Girard-Perregaux in order to transform it into a museum. We are doing a huge amount of fundamental work on
*former Product Development Director and a trained architect
our identity.
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“Ulysse Nardin innovates a lot in terms of communication as well as products, with five new calibers this year.”
In regards to Ulysse Nardin, to which you have devoted a lot of energy over the past two years, are the results in line with your expectations ? As it so happens, they most definitely are ! Ulysse Nardin has achieved a very good level of coherence and alignment between history, brand, product and distribution, which must continue to be fostered. In addition, it is a brand that innovates a lot in terms of communication as well as products, with five new calibers this year. These can be found in watches as different as the Mega Yacht Navy, the Freak X which appeals to the Asian market, the Skeleton X which is much loved by Americans, and the Freak NeXt with its giant pivot-free oscillator. Our authentic, distinctive and modern message is very well received by end customers, retailers and the media, which are reflecting this image of a new dynamic. In order to reinforce the relevance of our communication in key markets, we have opened two stores in China and one in Geneva, making a total of 20, but Ulysse Nardin does not aim to multiply them, as we are maintaining our distribution network of retailers. There are real opportunities and we have strong growth potential. Given that we only talk about half of what we do, we have a plenty of scope for expansion ! Moreover, I am fortunate to be able to count on a team of talents who have great ambitions for the brand.
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GIRARD-PERREGAUX Laureato Absolute Rock
Your site provides a chance to “Find your Ulysse Nardin” using a configurator ; does this also provide you with useful information ? Absolutely. We have accelerated our digital transformation in order to achieve the right level of conversation with the consumer. For me, this is the crux of the issue. The consumer experience now begins online, it must be facilitated and this must be done without any taboos. Benchmarks exist both inside and beyond the watch industry. We are all consumers and have no reason to act differently when buying a watch, a car, or other luxury goods and services. We must inspire but also deliver toprate practicality and then roll out this approach in stores so as to attract end consumers to see and touch the product. When the customer sees the watch, or visits the manufacture, all questions are answered. Did the launch this year of your X factor shared by the Freak and Skeleton collections stimulate interest or blur the message ? This is a facet that strengthens the brand’s message. The X factor expresses technical sophistication in a more modern way, it symbolizes the existing brand values in a single letter. For some people it rapidly enables a clear grasp of the brand’s technology and design. This is particularly the case for our Freak X Only Watch. The maritime universe is part of Ulysse Nardin’s DNA ; does this source of inspiration help guide creativity as much as innovation ? Above all, it is a demanding and very often authentic universe. It nurtures reflection and can be both technical and poetic. We saw this once again this year with our Classico Manara featuring artistic crafts, but also prior to that with the Divers chronographs of the Artemis Racing challenger created for the America’s Cup. We use their discoveries, for example in the foil, to achieve enhanced comfort, lightness and resistance, all of which are key parameters in yachting.
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FOCUS
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
JOY CORTHÉSY
An
odyssey
Known for its straightforward designs, immaculate finishing and limited production usually only in precious metals, elements that are all present in fan-favorites like the Lange 1 and the Zeitwerk, A. Lange & Söhne is now launching a new chapter with the brand-new Odysseus, its first regularly produced all-steel timepiece. The Odysseus owes its name to the epic journey of a project that began ten years ago. Since then, A. Lange & Söhne’s first foray into creating an elegant sports watch has gone through several redesigns. It also symbolizes a new path for the brand, one where Lange watches are more dynamic and suited to daily life, rather than for special occasions only. The integrated bracelet is its biggest talking point, in brushed steel and equipped with a folding clasp adjustable by up to seven millimeters using the discreet pusher embossed with the Lange logo that can be pressed in or pulled for a more comfortable fit. The date and day windows are set via tapered buttons on the side of the case, perfectly streamlined into the overall case design. Reinterpreting sports-elegance in true Lange style, Odysseus is only the start of what comes next for the Saxony-based watchmakers.
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Odysseus CASE : stainless steel, sapphire crystal caseback, water-
resistant to 120 meters DIMENSIONS : 40.5mm x 11.1mm MOVEMENT : Manufacture caliber L155.1 DATOMATIC, selfwinding, 50h power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, day-of-the-week and date displays DIAL : brass, dark blue BRACELET : stainless steel with safety folding clasp enabling precise adjustment
FOCUS
AUDEMARS PIGUET
DAVID CHOKRON
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Repeater Supersonnerie CASE : 950 platinum, Supersonnerie caseback, transparent
sapphire crystal, water-resistant to 20m (2 bar) DIMENSIONS : 42mm in diameter, 14mm thick MOVEMENT : mechanical manual-winding 2959 caliber FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, minute repeater DIAL : black with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold hands and appliques STRAP : black alligator leather with platinum folding clasp LIMITED EDITION : 20 pieces
Classical
music
But what exactly is this Royal Oak ? Those in the know will point out that Audemars Piguet does not produce its cult model with a small seconds movement. Connoisseurs will add that it no longer offers it in steel with an alligator leather strap. And they are all correct, given that ref. 26591PT is not what it might seem at first sight. The key to this mystery lies in noting the slight protrusion on the left side of the case and identifying it as minute repeater slide bolt. After a lengthy hiatus, the Royal Oak is once again rendered audible, albeit not with the help of a historical movement. After Royal Oak Offshore Concept and Jules Audemars models, this grand classic with its octagonal bezel has in turn been equipped with a Supersonnerie movement. The 2959 caliber is coupled with resonance table placed between the movement and the back, as well with a special caseback, together serving as a natural amplifier. The Supersonnerie therefore features acoustic intensity combined with clear and sustained sound quality. So much so that Audemars Piguet has taken the liberty of fitting it inside a case made of platinum, a soft metal that absorbs sound waves. A paradox, a luxury, an acoustic performance.
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FOCUS ZENITH
JOY CORTHESY
El Primero’s REBIRTH
When it comes to anniversaries, turning half a century is a big deal. It’s therefore no surprise to see Zenith dedicate 2019 to celebrating 50 years of its El Primero caliber, which has
El Primero A384 Revival
been a gold standard of chronometric timekeeping in the industry since its introduction
MOVEMENT : El Primero 400 Automatic
in 1969. And there is no better way to celebrate a legendary movement than by re-creating a faithful adaptation of the first watch to ever house the El Primero movement : the A384. Marking the last piece to join Zenith’s El Primero 50th Anniversary Revival series, the A384 Revival remains aesthetically faithful to the original A384 watch : the compact, angled tonneau-shaped steel case, the vintage-style pushers and crown ; the lacquered white dials with black counters creating a panda-type layout. Back in the 70s, the A384’s design was considered futuristic, and while today the A384 Revival is technically “vintage”, this historical recreation of the 1969 watch still holds a certain contemporary appeal. So accurate is this Revival model that the only updates this piece features are the domed sapphire-crystal instead of acrylic glass, a transparent sapphire crystal caseback, and the fact that it houses the El Primero 400 Automatic caliber (ostensibly a fine-tuned grandchild of the original El Primero movement). Everything else remains true to the original 1969 model – a true celebration of an important milestone for Zenith.
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CASE : stainless steel SIZE : 37mm
caliber, 5Hz frequency, 50-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : Hours, minutes, small seconds, 12-hour counter, 30-minute counter, tachymeter scale, date DIAL : whitelacquered dial with black counters with rhodium-plated hour markers coated in Super-LumiNova STRAP : black alligator strap or ladder bracelet
FOCUS TRILOBE
BRICE LECHEVALIER
Les Matinaux – Secret CASE : satin-brushed and mirror-polished 316L
stainless steel, convex bezel, sapphire crystal caseback, “Pièce unique” engraving on the back, water-resistant to 50m DIAMETER : 40.5mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (2892 base movement transformed using a 100-part X-Centric module by JF Mojon, 42h power reserve), 246 parts FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes and seconds by patented rotating rings and fixed indexes DIAL : bespoke star-studded sky in 3D Super-LumiNova, rosette-shaped seconds and Trilobe indexes STRAP : hand-sewn alligator leather with double folding clasp
A bespoke starry
sky
With “Time. Liberated.” as its leitmotif, the brand with its architectural DNA and ring-shaped time indications is indeed moving very quickly. In the year of its launch, its founder Gautier Massonneau managed to convince the GPHG jury to select it in its “Petite Aiguille” category (reflecting affordable luxury), and the founder of Only Watch to include it in his iconic biennial auction. Prior to that, Massoneau had persuaded watchmaker-designer Jean-François Mojon to develop its exclusive caliber, patented for its display featuring three rotating rings sliding on ruby bearings. In addition to the eight differentcolored versions of its first collection Les Matinaux, it is now offering this model as one-of-a-kind timepieces at a particularly affordable price. All one need do is reach for the stars with the sky of one’s choice in terms of time, place and date – such as to recall an unforgettable moment by immortalizing it in a symbolic, original, personalized and powerful way. The corresponding star-studded sky chart is thus accurately reproduced on the dial of your Trilobe watch by means of a process never before used in watchmaking, by 3D growth of Super-LumiNova in relief. Your watch becomes (almost) as unique as one of your nearest and dearest.
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FOCUS ARMIN STROM JOY CORTHÉSY
All things
equal Gravity Equal Force CASE : stainless steel, sapphire crystal
caseback, water-resistant to 3 ATM DIMENSIONS : 41mm x 12.65mm MOVEMENT : manufacture Armin Strom ASB19 caliber, automatic winding with micro rotor, 72-hour power reserve DIAL : offset with subdial seconds FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator STRAP : black alligator leather
In the watchmaking world, innovation and high price tags often go hand in hand – which makes since pushing boundaries requires investment. But in an effort to consistently seek new ways of improving movement accuracy in competitively priced models, independent brand Armin Strom is introducing a brand-new collection, System 78, with the Gravity Equal Force getting the ball rolling at CHF 16,900. The Gravity Equal Force brings us two new innovations within the all-new in-house Caliber ASB19. The first is a stop-works declutch mechanism in the barrel that delivers equal force to the regulating system, a mechanism using a Geneva wheel to limit the full turns of the mainspring barrel. A similar system initially found in a vintage pocket watch a client brought to Armin Strom for repair, it inspired this declutch mechanism that helps regulate the power delivery so as to remain consistent. But The dial display also takes cues from the same historical model. Instead of the familiar openworked dial typical of Armin Strom, the dial is now offset, with a small seconds subdial at 7 o’clock. The barrel and micro rotor remain, only partially overlapped by geometric bridges – a design element often found on vintage pocket watches. The more streamlined dial aesthetic is framed by a 41mm case (a first for Armin Strom). As the opening salvo of a new collection from Armin Strom, the Gravity Equal Force promises further innovation from the brand at a more affordable price point.
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FOCUS JAEGER-LECOULTRE BRICE LECHEVALIER
Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle CASE : polished sandblasted satin-brushed white gold, sapphire crystal
caseback, water-resistant to 50m DIAMETER : 43mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (950 caliber, 38h power reserve) FUNCTION : hours/minutes, minute repeater, perpetual calendar (day, date, month, moon phase, year, security zone) DIAL : guilloché blue enamel or silver-grained STRAP : blue alligator leather with folding clasp LIMITED EDITION : 30 pieces per dial color
Such a splendid
sound The epitome of Haute Horlogerie according to Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Master Grande Tradition collection is experiencing an evolution of its classic design with this new minute repeater perpetual calendar. Its more ergonomic and contemporary gold case nonetheless comprises 80 parts and already embodies complexity itself, as do its contrasting finishes (polished, sandblasted, satinbrushed). It houses 585 components skillfully integrated to give life to a true mechanical symbiosis. It is indeed extremely rare to combine a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar within a self-winding caliber, which – although very convenient – includes a rotor liable to conceal the sight of the magnificent movement. In this instance the rotor itself is hidden, unlike the curved squaresection gongs laid out in an innovative configuration enabling them to make optimal use of the space available while creating an exceptional sound. With the two limited series of the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle, decibels are in tune, powerful and timeless.
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FOCUS MIH
BRICE LECHEVALIER
MIH Gaïa watch, series 1 CASE : 316L steel, engraved individual number, MIH on the
crown, sapphire caseback, water-resistant to 30m DIAMETER : 39mm MOVEMENT : mechanical self-winding (Sellita SW400-1, 38h power reserve), secret message and engraved rotor FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes DIAL : PVD-coated center and blue minutes disk, rhodium-plated hour disk STRAP : calf leather, pin buckle engraved with GPS coordinates of the MIH LIMITED EDITION : 200 pieces
Gaïa jubilee, future of the past
An ambitious and dynamic initiative from the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH) in La Chaux-deFonds, this limited series of 200 MIH Gaïa watches available by subscription is motivated by the twin noble aims of celebrating the silver jubilee of the Gaïa Prize (awarded by the MIH to personalities in the watchmaking community) ; as well as funding the renovation of two exceptional 19th century models kept in the museum, the Grand Magician and the Tellurium. This endeavor undertaken by passionate enthusiasts is all the more deserving in that involves a cluster of exclusively local talents (eight watch industry players from La-Chaux-de-Fonds) and the outcome is particularly successful. The aesthetic and technical audacity remains consistent with the DNA of the Gaïa Prize (whose trophy takes the form of a translucent sphere with a beam of light passing through it), as well as with the architecture of the MIH and its home town, which bears the imprint of Le Corbusier and the watchmaking town planning appearing on the UNESCO World Heritage list. This distinctive style combining angles and curves enables an understated integration of the hours and minutes indication on two disks. Details on the crown, on and under the oscillating weight as well as on the pin buckle punctuate the visual discovery of the model, deliberately evoking a visit to a museum. A must-have for collectors and a boost for the durability of the horological heritage.
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FOCUS
PATEK PHILIPPE
DAVID CHOKRON
The exception that will become the rule
Patek Philippe ref. 5303R-010 Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Special Edition CASE : 5N rose gold, openwork white gold case middle with
openwork grid, transparent sapphire crystal and back, additional red gold caseback, non-water-resistant DIMENSIONS : 42mm in diameter, 12.13mm thick MOVEMENT : hand-wound mechanical with one-minute tourbillon regulator, R TO 27 PS caliber with 48-hour power reserve FUNCTIONS : hours, minutes, small seconds, minute repeater DIAL : sapphire small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock in sapphire, leaf-type hands in black lacquered gold STRAP : glossy black alligator with 5N rose gold folding clasp
At its grand exhibition held in Singapore this fall, Patek Philippe launched a series of six watches. Among them was an amazing new model embodying an exception to an aesthetic rule that the brand has been applying for many years : the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore Special Edition 2019 has no dial, just a subdial serving as a small seconds scale at 6 o’clock. Patek Philippe normally does without this particular element only on its rare skeleton watches, which Ref. 5053R-010 is not. The brand does not generally reveal the inner workings of its watches through the front, but exclusively via the caseback. However, it so happens that the R TO 27 PS caliber has a great deal worth revealing beneath the hands : hammers and gongs, snails and other components that enable it to chime the time, as well as the reverse side of its one-minute tourbillon. The brand had thus far resisted the standard practice of providing a dial cut-out to highlight a rotating regulating organ. While connoisseurs will regard this as an enchanting interlude, since this is a 12-piece limited edition, it is in fact the first series to showcase this aesthetic principle, and there are more to come !
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GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL FADI JAMIL
Christmas magic and brilliant masterpieces
Two fine works of art from Glashütte Original bring time for reflection As the dusk of winter falls, nature is wrapped in deepening silence. Christmas markets shine with a mysterious light and the fragrance of sweet pastries and traditional Christmas cakes drifts through the air. Typical wooden handicrafts appear in windows and on Christmas trees, and not just here in Saxony, but all over the world. It’s Christmas - time for quiet hours with the family, and time to exchange gifts. Glashütte Original lends these moments special brilliance with two unique timepieces bearing the magic of Christmas and traditional craftsmanship - the blue PanoMaticLunar in a red gold case, and the sparkling, bicolour Lady Serenade set with brillant-cut diamonds.
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PanoMaticLunar Red Gold CASE : 18 ct red gold DIMENSIONS: Ø 32.6 mm, height 7 mm MOVEMENT : Automatic movement, hour and minute (off-centre), small
second (off-centre) centre), second stop, Panorama Date, moon phase, exquisitely finished movement, bevelled edges, polished steel parts, polished/blued screws, skeletonized rotor with 21-ct gold oscillation weight, plate with Glashütte stripe finish, duplex swan-neck fine adjustment DIAL : Galvanized blue with appliques HANDS: gold with Super-LumiNova POWER RESERVE: 42 hours STRAP: Blue Louisiana Alligator leather
IN TIMES OF GOLD The new PanoMaticLunar in particular, which combines traditional craftsmanship and unmistakable design in splendid fashion, appears in festive radiance. The polished and satinbrushed red gold case gently frames a hand-crafted, dark blue dial. The individual displays are arranged off-centre on the dial, in accordance with the Golden Ratio the legendary law of aesthetic harmony. The auxiliary hours/minutes and small seconds dials are placed along a vertical axis within the left side of the dial, while the characteristic Panorama Date, its white numerals set against a blue ground, is accompanied by the moon phase on the right. The hour and minute hands set golden accents, their luminous inlays ensuring clear legibility under all lighting conditions. The exquisite moon phase display returns to the magic of Christmas, evoking the starry sky of a clear winter night: the elaborately crafted moon disc presents golden stars ablaze in a silver sky. The PanoMaticLunar is powered by the 90-02 automatic movement. The sapphire crystal case back offers a clear view of the finely finished movement with its traditional elements of the Glashütte art of watchmaking, including the hand-engraved balance cock, screw-mounted gold chatons, blued screws, the three-quarter plate with stripe finish, and the duplex swanneck fine adjustment, developed by Glashütte Original.
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Lady Serenade CASE : rose gold 4N/stainless steel, with 53 brilliant-cut diamonds
(approx. 1.19 ct) DIMENSIONS: Ø 26 mm, height 4.3 mm MOVEMENT : Automatic winding, central hour/minute/second, second stop, date window at 6 o‘clock, exquisitely finished movement, polished steel parts, polished screws, skeletonized rotor with heavy metal oscillation weight, Glashütte three-quarter plate with Glashütte stripe finish, Swan-neck fine adjustment DIAL : Mother-of-pearl with rose gold appliques HANDS: rose gold POWER RESERVE: 40 hours STRAP: Off-white Louisiana Alligator leather
BRILLIANT TREASURE The glow of lights at Christmas time is reflected especially
of excellent manufactory labour and authentic craftsmanship,
in the Lady Serenade’s 52 sparkling brillant-cut diamonds
and can be admired through the sapphire crystal case back: the
and golden accents. The hand-crafted, snow-white mother-
refined stripe finish on the Glashütte three-quarter plate and
of-pearl dial, whose iridescent shimmer and natural grain
skeletonized rotor, the beveled edges and polished steel parts.
make each dial unique, is set gracefully in the central section
A glance at the movement also reveals another feature of the
of the stainless steel case. The rose gold bezel and crown take
Glashütte art of watchmaking: the swan-neck fine adjustment,
up the golden hues, which appear as well in the elegantly
whose graceful curves honour its charming name, serves to
curved Roman numerals marking the hours, in the gold-plated
fine-tune the rate. The feminine timepiece is rounded off
filigreed index appliques, and in the gentle curves of the hour,
perfectly by a cream-coloured Louisiana alligator leather strap.
minute and seconds hands. Beating in the heart of the Lady Serenade is the 39-22
The PanoMaticLunar in fine red gold and the sparkling Lady Serenade make every moment more beautiful --- during the
automatic movement. Thanks to its second-stop function, the
weeks before Christmas, under the Christmas tree and for a
time can be set with exceptional precision. The movement’s
lifetime. Both models are available at all Glashütte Original
complex mechanisms and elaborate decorations are evidence
boutiques and from selected retailers worldwide.
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BOVET 1822 FADI JAMIL
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
VIRTUOSO X
BOVET 1822 invite you to Excellence and Proximity BOVET 1822 offers collectors to be at the heart of the process of watchmaking The craftsmen of the Ateliers BOVET demonstrate their propensity to innovate with the greatest respect for watchmaking traditions. While nearly 30% of the timepieces handcrafted today by Maison BOVET 1822 are unique pieces, the ones from the Ateliers BOVET allow collectors to bespoke their acquisition to a level of precision. The collector has the opportunity to join a team of specialists to define the specif technical and artistic detail of customization.
Virtuoso X CASE : 18K red gold, 18K white gold or
Platinum, Amadéo® convertible system DIMENSIONS: Diameter 46 mm, Thickness 17.20 mm MOVEMENT : Hand wound movement TOURBILLON: 1-minute flying tourbillon DIAL : Blue flinqué dials and hand engraved with fleurisanne motif on the back side. The Earth globes are painted by hand with luminescent material BRACELET: Full skin alligator BUCKLE: 18K red gold or white gold ardillon CHAIN: 18K red or white gold
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 89
T
he first chapter of the Ateliers BOVET is the Virtuoso X Tourbillon timepiece which is limited to 10 pieces. Bovet’s Engineering Brilliance is presented in the deco-
In the centre of each secondary dual time is a hand-painted hemispherical globe of the Earth. On the upper part of the two
rative arts and the watchmaking techniques featured in this pre-
time zones is displayed the name of the city corresponding to the
cious timepiece.
time zone. A clever combination of correctors allows summer and
The fascination of Mr. Raffy as a collector for decorative arts, and an uncompromising luxury watchmaking defini-
winter time to be taken into account for each of the 24 time zones. The Virtuoso X Tourbillon features unrivalled levels of persona-
tion, inspired the development of the Virtuoso X Tourbillon
lisation and finishes. The collector will have the opportunity to
timepiece. The Virtuoso X timepiece features the patented
bespoke the names of the cities for each of the 24 timezones.
flying-tourbillon, it has ten days power reserve using only a
From the very beginning of development, watchmakers, arti-
single barrel, while presenting three distinct time zones. The
sans, engravers and miniature painters have joined forces and
local time is indicated in the centre of the dial, as well as on
worked together to bring perfectly balanced timepieces to life.
an eccentric dial on its reverse side. The two secondary time
90
displaying the time on a 24-hour scale.
The back side face of the Virtuoso X Tourbillon timepiece
zones are harmoniously displayed on a horizontal axis on
combines the talent of the artisans with the virtuosity of the
the front side of the timepiece. They indicate the time of the
engravers. The first master artisans manufactured a flinquĂŠ dial
cities chosen by the collector. It features a curved hour hand
in the purest tradition of the cabin makers of the 18th and 19th
I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
centuries. The second artisans fully engraved the movement with
of study and development, houses this watchmaking jewel. It
the « Fleurisanne » motif, already known at the dawn of the 19th
allows the collector to wear his wristwatch on two sides, face or
century by the BOVET brothers. The depth of the engraving is
reverse side, as a pocket watch or a table clock in a few simple
remarkable and the motif goes through the bridges of the move-
steps without any tools. The reliability of this complication is
ment without any interruption, it offers a dazzling contrast to
certified by an independent laboratory for 30,000 conversion
the dial for incredible readability.
cycles without any alteration featuring both the elegance and
Also, the “guilloché laqué” on the front side of the dial features
functionality of the case.
a half-moon shape. The two globes of the second and third time
The Virtuoso X Tourbillon is available in 18K red gold, 18K
zones are hand-painted highlighting the mastery of the minia-
white gold or in Platinum. As other Bovet timepiece, it presents
ture painters who work in three dimensions. In the Ateliers
the criteria of excellence and innovation of fine watchmaking.
BOVET, innovation is part of the tradition. The hand-painted
Technicality, chronometry, and decorative arts are sublimated
globes are illuminated in the dark by an exclusive process that
for the noblest expression of time. This concept offers to the col-
the Bovet brothers would not have denied.
lector the opportunity to be at the heart of the process from the
The Virtuoso X Tourbillon timepiece features many facets
creation. Each request is studied by Bovet’s team of specialists
never seen in the world of fine watchmaking. The patented
to meet the expectations of the collectors while respecting the
Amadeo® convertible case system, which required seven years
watchmaking traditions.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 91
MORITZ GROSSMANN FADI JAMIL
The Moritz Grossmann HAMATIC – self-winding watch with hammer system The self-winding hammer system with pendulum weight reveals a peek of the intricate mechanics and converts even the smallest movement into impressive winding power
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HAMATIC CASE : Three-part, in 750/000 gold DIMENSIONS: Diameter: 41.0 mm, height:
11.35 mm MOVEMENT : Manufactory calibre 106.0, automatic winding, regulated in five positions DIAL : Solid silver, opaline with printed Roman numerals HANDS: Manually crafted from steel, annealed to a brown-violet hue BACK: Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side STRAP: Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in 750/000 gold
T
hroughout millennia, researchers and inventors strived
subjected to a constant upward and downward movement.
to build a perpetual motion machine, a device that would
The engineers behind the world’s first automatic watches in
continue to move indefinitely once started. Without any
the 19th century exploited this fact by using a pendulum in
external source of power, it was believed that the machine it-
the shape of a hammer with a heavy head to harness all of the
self would generate an unlimited amount of energy. It was only
kinetic energy generated through movement.
with the formulation of the law of conservation of energy in the
The engineers at Grossmann deliberately returned to the tra-
middle of the 19th century that physics quashed the principle
ditional concept in order to keep the fascinating mechanics of
of perpetual motion. Nevertheless, people’s fascination for the
the Grossmann movement visible. In the form of an elaborate,
concept remained unbroken.
intricately finished frame that is open in the middle, the body
Of course, the HAMATIC does not purport to be perpetual
of the hammer provides a stage for the hammer spring and
motion machine – after all, the first automatic watch from
striking gold hammer head. The calibre 106.0 complete with
Moritz Grossmann draws its kinetic energy from an external
its hammer-style pendulum system can thus be seen at work
source. A pendulum-style hammer weight skilfully uses the
through the sapphire crystal display back.
energy generated through the wearer’s movements to transfer it
The bidirectional automatic hammer mechanism guarantees
via the ratchet wheel to the mainspring in the barrel, meaning
high energy efficiency with consistent winding power. This
that an external energy source makes the dream of infinite
results in a highly precise and reliable movement. A power
motion come true. It’s therefore safe to say that the HAMATIC
reserve of 72 hours is available when fully wound.
is one of the most beautiful and complex examples of would-be perpetual motion.
The hammer’s centre of mass is further away from its rotational axis than with a central rotor. This results in a high torque, which in turn caters for powerful winding. Thanks to the
PERFECTED, TRADITIONAL SELF-WINDING HAMMER SYSTEM Once upon a time, most people moved around on horseback or by foot. Both riding and walking mean that the person is
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I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
special ratchet mechanism, hammer movements from just five degrees can be used to wind the mainspring.
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MORITZ GROSSMANN FADI JAMIL
Homage to Moritz Grossmann – vintage timepiece in honour of the master Presentation of the POWER RESERVE Vintage with historical Moritz Grossmann logo in London 96
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MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 97
P
resenting the first model of the newly founded independent Glashütte watch manufactory Moritz Grossmann in 2010, Christine Hutter saw a 125-year-old dream come true. The dream of manufacturing mecha-
nical watches to the highest standards of craftsmanship in the spirit of the visionary and watchmaking genius Moritz Grossmann in Glashütte again. To mark the occasion, the manufactory’s designers devised a new logo – two straight lines at the bottom and a semicircle segment at the top framing the Moritz Grossmann i/Sa lettering. These lines precisely indicate the shape of the lower edge of the characteristic Grossmann two-thirds plate, typically used by Moritz Grossmann in his pocket watches and which, thanks to recesses in the movement, allow a view of the balance. To commemorate the revival of the brand and pay tribute to the inventor, visionary and master craftsman Moritz Grossmann, a traditional version of this wristwatch is now being released. The POWER RESERVE Vintage features a historic dial in argenté echoing Moritz Grossmann’s classic pocket watches. Finely crafted Roman numerals in black and the original logo featuring the ‘M. GROSSMANN’ typography from 1875 grace the dial paying tribute to the master, as he was respectfully called in Glashütte.
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Power Reserve Vintage CASE : Three-part, precious metal DIMENSIONS: Diameter: 41.0 mm, height:
11.65 mm MOVEMENT : Manufacture calibre 100.2, manually wound, adjusted in five positions DIAL : Solid silver, argenté, with Roman numerals HANDS: Manually crafted, steel, annealed to a blue hue BACK: Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one side STRAP: Hand-stitched alligator strap with prong buckle in precious metal
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 99
Fine Watch Club
ZENITH El Primero A386 Revival “Fine Watch Club”
24-piece limited edition
BY BRICE LECHEVALIER
Limited series and events each month 100 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Automatic
Titanium Limited Edition of 12
L
aunched this summer by GMT Publishing, the Fine Watch Club is the first international club of watch owners, which has already welcomed more than
5,000 members from all over the world. In its pre-launch phase, the first VIP events reserved for members took place in Baselworld, at the Monaco Yacht Show with Only Watch and Ulysse Nardin, as well as in the Bvlgari, Jaeger-LeCoultre, TAG Heuer and Zenith manufacturing sites. The capitvating and varied program of the coming weeks features the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the Watch Photo Awards, Dubai Watch Week, as well as VIP visits at Vacheron Constantin, Akrivia, Frédérique Constant, Girard-Perregaux and the Patek Philippe Museum.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 101
MAURICE LACROIX Aikon
Chronograph Limited Edition of 24
BETWEEN 12 AND 24 PIECES For its first limited series designed exclusively for its members, the Fine Watch Club made its mark by offering a 12-piece series of the world’s thinnest automatic watch, winner of the GPHG 2017 : the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium, introduced in a novel interpretation featuring spicy chocolatecolored hands and hour-markers, as well as a personalized caseback (see www.fine-watch-club.com). This model, which holds several world records, was f ollowed by another iconic watch, the A386 by Zenith, with its new El Primero caliber celebrating the 50th anniversary of original El Primero the world’s most accurate automatic chronograph, normally available in gold only. Exclusively for members of the Fine Watch Club, Zenith created the only 50th anniversary version equipped with a steel case and an exclusive dial, in a 24-piece edition. For its third limited series, also of 24, the Fine Watch Club selected Maurice Lacroix’s Aikon automatic chronograph representing another price range and featuring a contemporary design that is both original and exclusive. Discover these exclusive benefits and features by becoming a member via www.fine-watch-club.com
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Le Richemond Geneva
DISCOVER A LAKESIDE ESCAPE A BREATH OF SWISS FRESH AIR AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE ALPS BREATHTAKING VIEWS ON THE JET D’EAU AND THE MONT BLANC FRENCH SEASONAL CUISINE AT LE JARDIN RESTAURANT LE SPA BY SISLEY & FITNESS CELEBRATION OF MEMORABLE EVENTS
Jardin Brunswick | 1201 Geneva | Switzerland lerichemond.com
#MYRichemond
12th ART BY BRICE LECHEVALIER
GPHG and Dubai Watch Week SEND WATCHMAKING TRAVELING
S
ince watches have lost their monopoly on time indication, they have had to reinvent their very reason for being. The existential function has given way to
various desirability factors including being a part of a group or social status ; expressing a love of mechanics or a passion for craftsmanship ; conveying aesthetic seduction or technological prowess ; symbolizing innovation and a taste for performance ; representing a reward or commemorative gift ; as well as reflecting a penchant for ostentatious luxury or impulsive selfsatisfaction… Fortunately there are many reasons for acquiring a watch, and even more for giving one as a present. That being said, watch brands still need to nurture such desires, to stimulate these must-have drivers and to trigger these emotional mechanisms leading to acquisition. The pages of highquality magazines such as GMT or specialized websites such as WorldTempus are prime stimuli ; tradeshows such as Baselworld or SIHH are designed precisely with this in mind ; while key events such as the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and Dubai Watch Week take a cultural approach and round out the range of promotional means available to the watch industry. The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève leaves the City of Calvin to meet the world, while Dubai Watch Week serves as a temporary annual Middle Eastern embassy for Swiss watchmaking.
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The Rolex Submariner exhibition on show at Dubai Watch Week. Last year, the GPHG selection staged public viewings in Venice (see here), as well as in Hong Kong, Singapore and Geneva (next page).
THE GPHG ROADSHOW Just as about one-quarter of the GPHG jury is renewed each year, the roadshow organized between the official selection in September and the prize-giving ceremony in November explores new paths each autumn. Last year, the 72 pre-selected watches were exhibited in Venice, Hong Kong, Singapore and Vienna, the year before in Milan and Taipei, while the 2019 vintage has already flown to Sydney, Bangkok and Mexico City (as part of the SIAR, a highly renowned local watchmaking exhibition), and will travel to Dubai once the final vote has been cast. As every year, the longest exhibition is naturally held in Geneva, this time once again in Geneva’s Musée d’art et d’histoire from November 1st to 14th. This exhibition is worth a visit for two main reasons. First of all because it also hosts the exhibition of the 60 photos of the Watch Photo Awards (the first international watch photo competition for the general public, another initiative designed to promote fine watchmaking), but above all because it is possible to admire extraordinary watches up close. In each of the 14 categories of the GPHG, the six watches selected by the jury of experts theoretically represent the best in watchmaking. Each one is a show in itself. Some of these watches are very rare and to see them is exceptional. Moreover, in this context they can actually be touched, since their staging does not include a glass showcase. The artisan Xavier Dietlin has designed an astonishingly effective secure presentation table for the occasion. The award ceremony at the Théâtre du Léman is broadcast live on www.worldtempus.com on November 7th 2019.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 105
©Miguel Bueno
THE MULTI-FACETED DUBAI WATCH WEEK PLATFORM At the initiative of the prestigious local retailer Seddiqi & Sons, Dubai Watch Week is first and foremost an artistic and cultural event, bringing together the creative forces of the watch industry of all sizes and from practically all horizons. Human relations are of paramount importance. Watch brand CEOs make themselves available for discussions with the public and with experts. One comes across renowned artisans such as Philippe Dufour who produce only a few dozen watches per year, as well as CEOs of major luxury brands – although it is true that the “small independents” enjoy a very special place here. This has in no way prevented the noteworthy presence of Rolex this year, even though it is not very used to this type of event bringing together other watch brands. This year, some 30 of them will be running booths and holding discussion forums. For its fourth edition, from November 20th to 24th 2019, Dubai Watch Week (DWW) will be held at the Dubai International Financial Center on the theme Innovation & Technology, celebrating what can happen when radical thinking meets technical ability. The aim is to further the reputation of watchmaking, to make its values understood, as well as to explain the titanic work behind-thescenes done by manufacturers and resulting in this art of the infinitely small (as highlighted by Thierry Stern in his interview on page 32 about Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition). The numerous watch-themed experiences that await visitors, collectors or simply curious individuals in search of something new will include the GPHG exhibition, as well as a theme from the Watch Photo Awards specially created for the DWW on which they will be invited to vote in order to reward the author of the best photo. It is worth recalling at this point that watchmaking has since 2012 been institutionalized as the 12th Art, the art of time measurement. So let’s all get involved with this art form. Keep track of it all on www.gphg.org, www.dubaiwatchweek.com, www.worldtempus.com and www.watch-photo-awards.com
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Collection Medici en résine acrylique, aspect bois, attributs en palladium. Le stylo à plume Oversize est équipé du système Power Filler. Le stylo à plume Medium est équipé du système à Converter. Le Medici est également disponible en Roller, Bille et Mine. www.visconti.it
ONLY WATCH 2019 BY BRICE LECHEVALIER
HERMÈS
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
S
ARMIN STROM
TRILOBE
The collectors’ grail ince its creation in 2005 by Luc Pettavino, then President of the Monaco Yacht Show, the Only Watch biennial has brought together dozens of watch
brands for each edition, which have jointly contributed to funding medical research to the tune of CHF 40 million. Indeed, what might originally have been perceived as a trial run by the founder of the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy, supported by Prince Albert II of Monaco, immediately found a positive response from key players in the watchmaking industry who willingly agreed to each create a unique piece, sold at auction to support this noble cause. In turn, collectors and occasional buyers were won over by this spirit of solidarity, but above all by the originality of the approach and the quality of the majority of the pieces designed. How else can we imagine a creation shared by Richard Mille and Philippe Starck, to cite just one example ? Following the
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AUDEMARS PIGUET
SINGER REIMAGINED
BLANCPAIN
H. MOSER ET CIE.
HUBLOT
success of the first edition held in the heart of Monaco Yacht Show, the second edition of Only Watch in 2007 seemed a natural sequel. Then came the third, the fourth… and here we are at the eighth. While the focus on benevolent creativity has been maintained at the brand level, the organization has been perfected over the course of an event that has become a staple event in the watch industry calendar. Each time, brands reinvent themselves in their creations, bring added value to their unique pieces (accompanied by an experience, for example), share their achievement with their fans and actively participate in global enthusiasm for what is in fact the highest multi-brand concentration of new unique pieces offered for sale. In 2019, no less than exceptional watches began their traveling exhibition at the Monaco Yacht Show in September, before moving on to Geneva in November to be acquired by the most motivated and highest bidders.
MIDDLE EAST EDITION I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I 109
ZENITH
JACOB & CO.
ARTYA
MONTBLANC
FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT
CARL F. BUCHERER
GIRARD-PERREGAUX
PHENOMENAL Models representing the complete spectrum of complications, materials, colors shapes – and of course prices – rub shoulders freely within this assortment. Sobriety meets exuberance on aesthetic, technical and financial levels. Discerning connoisseurs, collectors and generous devotees of beautiful objects that have meaning are truly spoilt for choice. Estimates for the 2019 edition range from less than CHF 20,000 to more than CHF 2.5 million for the Patek Philippe, the only Grandmaster Chime made in a steel case (see Thierry Stern’s interview on page 32). Appetite for this unique piece with 20 complications is such that the bids being evoked behind the scenes are already reaching incredible heights. While the overall sum raised by contributions from all brands to the 2017 edition reached more than 10 million francs, it is rumored that some collectors would be willing to pay this amount for the Grandmaster Chime Only Watch ! You didn’t follow the Christie’s sale last time and can imagine succumbing to the charms the little black Tudor of Only Watch 2019 estimated at around CHF 5,000? Why not, but it is worth recalling that in 2017 it actually sold for 100 times its estimate ! Not to mention the Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar model, which almost hit the million mark. For REBELLION
brands and buyers alike, participating in Only Watch has become a must. Read an analysis of this “collectors’ top 50” on www.worldtempus.com, as well as viewing them in their entirety on www.onlywatch.com
110 I GREAT MAGAZINE OF TIMEPIECES I MIDDLE EAST EDITION
An international watch owners club offering its members year-round benefits In association with GMT Magazine, WorldTempus, Geneva Watch Tour and Watch Photo Awards
O pe ni ng 2 0 19 register now on
Photography: Karine Bauzin
www.fine-watch-club.com
Portfolio Only Watch The stars of the Monaco Yacht Show JOY CORTHESY
C
reated at the Monaco Yacht Show in 2005, the biennal Only Watch returns for its first stop of its exhibition before embarking on a world tour beyond the seas, ending in an auction in Geneva this November. GMT captured the first glimpses of some of these unique pieces in
the super yacht setting.
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CHRONOMÉTRIE FERDINAND BERTHOUD CHRONOMÈTRE FB 1 - NIGHT STAR FOR ONLY WATCH
JAQUET DROZ GRANDE SECOND SKELET-ONE CERAMIC
FOR ONLY WATCH
ULYSSE NARDIN EXO-SKELETON X FOR ONLY WATCH
BREGUET TYPE 20 ONLY WATCH 2019
RICHARD MILLE RM 11-03 AUTOMATIC FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH MCLAREN
MAURICE LACROIX AIKON MERCURY ONLY WATCH 2019
CYRUS KLEPCYS ALARM ONLY WATCH
Atmosphère JOY CORTHESY
The Akrivia
atelier
S
urrounded by uneven cobblestone streets and centuries-old buildings in Geneva, sits what is possibly Switzerland’s smallest watch manufacture : the atelier of
independent brand Akrivia. Based there since 2017, Akrivia’s founder, Rexhep Rexhepi, has sought to make his workshop different from that of other watch brands. Intimate and homey, but powerful in terms of production quality, the Akrivia atelier is the rough diamond of Geneva’s Old Town. In 2018, Rexhepi caught international attention when he was awarded the prize in the Men’s Watch category for his Chronomètre Contemporain at the illustrious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. “What surprised me even more [than winning] was discovering the amount of really passionate collectors around the world, who know so much about watchmaking,” said Rexhepi. “I love getting to know people who love watchmaking like I do, or even more, and just welcoming them into the atelier,” he continued.
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Akrivia has partnered with legendary case maker, Jean-Pierre Hagmann, to extend its atelier in Geneva so as to make its cases exclusively in-house, with a view to integrating even more stages into its production process.
Chronomètre Contemporain Only Watch
The Akrivia workshops are every bit as contemporary as Rexhepi’s designs but also show clear signs of his love for traditional watchmaking. The walls look newly painted white, but the floorboards still creak beneath your feet, and the watchmaking stations are grouped together at in the center, like a kitchen island, flooded with light from the large windows looking out into the street. Rexhepi’s station is on a slightly raised platform, where on his right he can look out onto an internal courtyard and on his left, he can oversee his team of watchmakers, popping down to advise on beveling here, engraving there. In a back room, the team has furnished the space with a coffee table surrounded by a few chairs and a cozy couch, where Rexhepi often welcomes friends and clients for an apéro. In this space, guests are welcomed into a home and privy to a production mode that remains rare in this industry – one that highlights traditional craftsmanship from A to Z devoted to making modern pieces as Rexhepi envisions them.
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ZOOM FADI JAMIL
HUBLOT
The Hublot Yacht at Abu Dhabi F1® Grand PrixTM 2019 Swiss luxury watchmaker Hublot kicked off the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix weekend today -November 29- with a thrilling ambiance on the Hublot Yacht, biggest vessel at Yas Marina this year. Joined by international celebrities, partners, Hublot Ambassadors and friends, Hublot celebrated Scuderia Ferrari’s 90th anniversary and set a joyful atmosphere on practice day.
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