Between The Wines Between The Wines JJune une 2023 2023
Hidden Hidden Treasures Treasures
During the boom times for California Pinot Noir the ‘00’s and teens-- we started seeing all sorts of properly placed vineyards, planted with correct clonal materials (along with Burgundytrained winemakers to complete the formula) come on line in rapid succession. There quickly became a small subset of ‘unicorn wines’, i.e., things you’ve heard of but never actually saw. One of those unicorns was Copain Pinot Noir Owner/winemaker Wells Guthrie was a bona fide star, producing downright compelling Pinot Noir. Wells was also front & center in The Pursuit of Balance movement, a loose-knit organization of winemakers and Somms that promoted lower alcohol, more elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
We reached out to Wells numerous times back then, only to be told: ‘sorry not enough for Michigan’. But then fate stepped in. In the Spring of 2016, Jackson Family Wines purchased Copain Lock, Stock, & Barrel, and suddenly Michigan was in play. At first, we were only offered their ‘Tous Ensemble’ wines their kitchen sink/young vines cuvees of Chardonnay & Pinot Noir (which are better than many wineries top Pinot Noirs. But eventually, we were able to get tiny amounts of their amazing single vineyard wines. Wells stayed for a few years after the purchase, but as is typically the case, he departed thereafter. However, this small winery is clearly in capable hands, and continues to work with some of the most vaunted Pinot Noir & Chardonnay vineyards in the state Not only are the wines outstanding to amazing, but they are incredible values in their peer group.All together (tous ensemble) an outstanding brand that deserves your attention!
hidden Treasures
Loved & Found (new)
What's New
quotation of the Month:
Good company good wine, good welcome, can make good people
-Shakespeare
JJune une 22023 023
Loved & Found Loved & Found
Nerello Mascalese
“nair-rello mask-ah-lay-zay”
Our 2nd edition of this feature where we give a shout out to a forgotten/almost extinct grape varieties which have risen from the dead. Today it is Nerello Mascalese.
Nerello Mascalese and its kissin’ cousin Nerello Cappuccio is one of those grapes that essentially thrives in only one place: the slopes of Sicily’s Mt. Etna. Grown there for millennia (the ancient Greeks sung its praises) and thriving at the high altitude of Mt Etna’s slopes, the vineyards are notoriously difficult to farm, and slowly, but surely, fell from favor as emigration in the 19th and 20th centuries decimated the workforce especially the young, who could handle the hard work. As a matter of fact, when the D.O.C. was established in 1968, many of the best (upper elevation) vineyards had already been abandoned so were not even included in the D.O.C. zone. Happily, starting around 2000, outsiders, i.e., vintners not from Sicily, recognized this was a vinous jewel that was laid fallow and lit the fuse that is todays THRIVING Etna wine scene.
The wines from Nerello are hauntingly perfumed, the best showing a balance and precision that few wines in the world can boast. They are frequently described as ‘Burgundy meets Barolo’, and we agree with that description. If you are not hip to Nerello Mascalese and Mt. Etna, it’s time to wake up!
Between The Wines Between The Wines
Between The Wines Between The Wines
JJune une 22023 023
What's What's New New
Tenute Bosco
In the Somm/Wine Nerd world, it seems that certain categories seem to percolate up and down, going from obscurity, to being everywhere to being allocated to being yesterday’s news; The Jura, Georgian wines and Saumur rouge come to mind. But there is one ‘fad wine’ that is no fad: the wines of Mt Etna. Etna wines burst on the scene here 7 or 8 years ago, and far from being a flash in the pan, the interest and sales of these wonderful wines show no signs of slowing down. And happily, we have a new producer to add to the fun: Tenute Bosco.
Sofia Ponzini started Tenute Bosco in 2010 by resurrecting some abandoned vineyards on a family property which dates back to the late 1600’s. Two parcels on the highly desired north side of Etna total just 10 acres. They grow all three Etna varietals: Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappucio and Carricante. A portion of the red vineyards are pre-phylloxera, 120 years old vines and akll of their vineyards are certified organic (the wines are vegan too). Their top cuvee Vico is a Tre Bicchieri wine. And of course, its fairly easy to find wonderful wine, but much harder to find wonderful wine that is a value: well here is one for you!
Every time we think we know an area well and know most of the top producers there, we get schooled…in this case happily. Get yours now so you are in line for this wine every year!
