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Between The Wines Between The Wines JJune une 2023 2023

Hidden Hidden Treasures Treasures

During the boom times for California Pinot Noir the ‘00’s and teens-- we started seeing all sorts of properly placed vineyards, planted with correct clonal materials (along with Burgundytrained winemakers to complete the formula) come on line in rapid succession. There quickly became a small subset of ‘unicorn wines’, i.e., things you’ve heard of but never actually saw. One of those unicorns was Copain Pinot Noir Owner/winemaker Wells Guthrie was a bona fide star, producing downright compelling Pinot Noir. Wells was also front & center in The Pursuit of Balance movement, a loose-knit organization of winemakers and Somms that promoted lower alcohol, more elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

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We reached out to Wells numerous times back then, only to be told: ‘sorry not enough for Michigan’. But then fate stepped in. In the Spring of 2016, Jackson Family Wines purchased Copain Lock, Stock, & Barrel, and suddenly Michigan was in play. At first, we were only offered their ‘Tous Ensemble’ wines their kitchen sink/young vines cuvees of Chardonnay & Pinot Noir (which are better than many wineries top Pinot Noirs. But eventually, we were able to get tiny amounts of their amazing single vineyard wines. Wells stayed for a few years after the purchase, but as is typically the case, he departed thereafter. However, this small winery is clearly in capable hands, and continues to work with some of the most vaunted Pinot Noir & Chardonnay vineyards in the state Not only are the wines outstanding to amazing, but they are incredible values in their peer group.All together (tous ensemble) an outstanding brand that deserves your attention!

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quotation of the Month:

Good company good wine, good welcome, can make good people

-Shakespeare

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Nerello Mascalese

“nair-rello mask-ah-lay-zay”

Our 2nd edition of this feature where we give a shout out to a forgotten/almost extinct grape varieties which have risen from the dead. Today it is Nerello Mascalese. Nerello Mascalese and its kissin’ cousin Nerello Cappuccio is one of those grapes that essentially thrives in only one place: the slopes of Sicily’s Mt Etna Grown there for millennia (the ancient Greeks sung its praises) and thriving at the high altitude of Mt Etna’s slopes, the vineyards are notoriously difficult to farm, and slowly, but surely, fell from favor as emigration in the 19th and 20th centuries decimated the workforce especially the young, who could handle the hard work. As a matter of fact, when the D.O.C. was established in 1968, many of the best (upper elevation) vineyards had already been abandoned so were not even included in the D.O.C. zone. Happily, starting around 2000, outsiders, i.e., vintners not from Sicily, recognized this was a vinous jewel that was laid fallow and lit the fuse that is todays THRIVING Etna wine scene. The wines from Nerello are hauntingly perfumed, the best showing a balance and precision that few wines in the world can boast. They are frequently described as ‘Burgundy meets Barolo’, and we agree with that description. If you are not hip to Nerello Mascalese and Mt. Etna, it’s time to wake up!

The wines from Nerello are hauntingly perfumed, the best showing a balance and precision that few wines in the world can boast. They are frequently described as ‘Burgundy meets Barolo’, and we agree with that description. If you are not hip to Nerello Mascalese and Mt Etna, it’s time to wake up!

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