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Celebrating the Harvest of the Aloha State, Season by Season No. 5 Summer 2008

Soul of the Luau Brew In Hawai`i Sustainable Tourist Happy Birthday Edible Hawaiian Islands! Member of Edible Communities

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Aloha Aloha! Where does the time go? This issue marks our first birthday. Thank you to everyone who has been a part of making this an extraordinary experience. I have learned a great deal from each of you. Many of you may not be aware that Edible Hawaiian Islands is a member of Edible Communities, a group of publishers around the United States (plus two in Canada) all with the same goal of supporting all things local in each of our areas. Edible Hawaiian Islands was number 29 in the group; today there are 50. I was reading Edible East End recently, from Long Island, New York, and the editor Brian Halweil with publisher Stephen Munshin summed it up beautifully: “Nothing grows that fast—in nature, in business, in the collective consciousness—unless it’s filling a void. Collectively, our readership stands at nearly 5 million people clamoring to become more powerful eaters. As part of this massive, viral campaign to spread gastro-literacy, we want people to spend more time reading about food. Not just because it will make them better cooks, more deliberate shoppers and more circumspect food decision makers, but because it will inspire them to change their lives.” On that note, our birthday promise is to continue to follow the food, sharing the stories of the people and places we visit along the way. Ahui hou,

Gloria Cohen Publisher/Editor in Chief

We would like to welcome Dania Katz to our team, Dania will be our sales rep for Maui, which includes Moloka`i and Lana`i. Please feel free to give her a call, she can be reached directly at 808.283.9921, or To our subscribers, you may have noticed we are mailing in a clear envelope. The good news is that these envelopes are recyclable, biodegradable and compostable, all without resulting in toxic residue. Every little bit helps.

Photo by G. Natale

In our Spring issue, the wonderful Tsukemono story was written by Nan Piianaia from Hawai`i Island.


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summer 2008 Contents



Departments 4 Letter of Aloha




6 Masthead

10 `Aha`Aina Recapturing the Soul of the Luau

9 Notable Edibles

14 Hawai`i State Farm Fair

18 Cooking Fresh 25 Book Review

The Hawai`i Beer Book 26 Recipe Wave 31 What’s Fresh—Summer 45 Book Review

Blue Eggs and Yellow Tomatoes

16 The Hawai`i Healing Garden Statewide Festivals 22 Liquid Assets Brew in Hawai`i 28 Are you going to San Francisco? The First Continental Culinary Congress wants you. 32 The Sustainable Tourist

46 Farmers’ Markets 49 Advertiser Directory

40 Talk Story The History and Future of Sugar Cane in Hawai`i

50 What is it? How do you eat it?

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edible Hawaiian Islands Publisher/Editor in Chief Gloria Cohen Editor at Large Steven Cohen Distribution & Advertising Terry Sullivan on Kaua`i Dania Katz on Maui Contributors Kira Cohen Jim Moffat Stephen Munshin Melissa Petersen Tracey Ryder Carole Topalian Photography Lauren Brandt Oliver Cohen Steven Cohen Steve Knox Gloria Natale

Artists Cindy Conklin Mary Ogle Writers Melissa Chang John Cox Devany Vickery-Davidson Dahlia Haas Brian Halweil Jon Letman Gloria Natale Tim Ryan Research Editor Lila Martin

Contact Us Edible Aloha PO Box 753, Kilauea, HI 96754 808-828-1559 • Photo by Ollie Cohen

Subscribe * Give A Gift * Advertise Call: 808-828-1559 Or use the above email or web address Letters For the quickest response, email Edible Hawaiian Islands is published quarterly by Edible Hawaiian Islands LLC. All rights reserved. Spring * Summer * Fall * Winter Subscription is $28 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. Š2008. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error has escaped our attention, please notify us and accept our sincere apologies. Mahalo!


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Photo by Forest and Kim Starr

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Photo by G. Natale

Notable Edibles


Hank’s Haute Dogs: Who the hell is Hank? This is the first thing you see when you go to the kahuna page on Hanks website. Hank is Henry Adaniya a prominent restaurateur from Chicago and owner of Trio, his world-renowned restaurant. He has now moved from fine dining to fast food, focusing on his family roots here in developing Hank’s. The hot dog is an edible icon, that everyone can savor. The dogs come in all breeds, from a classic HANK’S Frank, a classic Chicago all beef hot dog with the famous snap – and all the fixins you can imagine, a CHILI DOG, with Hank’s homemade chili, to a NO DOG for the vegetarians, that sounds amazing, to the exotic daily specials that include, Lobster, Alligator, Kobe Beef even Duck and Foi Gras. Everything is homemade, including bistro style French fries, liliko`i lime soda, and on Friday and Saturday nights, there is even truffle macaroni and cheese. This is slow fast food at it’s best. Hank’s Haute Dogs 324 Coral Street, in Kaka`ako 808.532.HANK •


At Hale Akua Garden Farm, the mission is to promote action that restores and maintains the health of our planet through sustainable gardening practices. Their teachigns incorporate the ancient wisdom of the Hawaiian people and their extensive knowledge about cultivating the native Hawaiian herbs, flowers and vegetables. On their website you can find a list of workshops, classes and events, or scheduled tours. Hale Akua Garden Farm is is an HOFA Certified Organic Farm. 808.572.9300


When visiting Waimea, be sure to check out Aunty Lilikoi’s, here you will find an array of hand made products all with Liliko`i (passionfruit) as the ingredient. With many awards for these delicious creations, some favorites are Passion Fruit Wasabi Mustard, a variety of Passhion Fruit Jellies, like Passion Mango and Passion Guava, Passion Fruit Teriyaki Sauce, even Passion Fruit bath and body products. On the islands, the use of “Aunty” is an expression of Aloha and respect for any woman of their parents’ generation. Aunty Liliko`i Products are all hand made with aloha. You can also order on line. 9875 Waimea Road toll free: 866.LILIKOI •

Hawai`i Island Hilo Bay Café One wouldn't think of going to Hilo for a good meal, least of all to a place next to a typical fast food court in a shopping center. But Kim Snuggerood's Hilo Bay Café stands out, a chic bistro that very simply serves good local food, sourced from the surrounding farms and ranches on the island. Hawai`i Island grass fed beef makes for an outstanding Blue Bay burger; fresh fish is always on the menu. Crisp and tender lettuces, tomatoes, beets, fennel and other vegetables from island farms go into appetizing salads created by chef Joshua Ketner. The kalua pork sandwich is a signature here, often sold out by the end of the lunch hour. Brews from Mehana in Hilo and Kona Brewing Co. are served, in keeping with the "local sourcing" theme. Hilo Bay Café is all about mostly local, mostly organic, fresh and very delicious food. 315 Makaala St. • 808 935-4939 Daily 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

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Recapturing the Soul of the Luau By John Cox Photos by John Cox

Somewhere in the humid darkness, barely audible over the lapping surf, a lone ukulele melody floats along the tradewinds. Beneath the scent of chlorine, sunblock and artificial coconut room spray wafts the distinct aroma of teriyaki sauce dripping onto hot coals. Framed by a short hallway, illuminated by bright stadium lights, a theater of polyester aloha shirts and orchid leis watch silently as two dancers sway to a primal drum rhythm. Their grass skirts cast long shadows across a bowl of poi that sits on the otherwise empty buffet like a pale blob of discarded Play Doh, a curiosity left untouched by foreign tongues. As I observe from a distance I realize that this is a luau without substance, a tradition turned to entertainment, somehow forgetting its very reason for being: community celebration and fellowship. Somehow the very soul of the luau had been lost. Celebration reigned in 1819. The rules that dictated life in ancient Hawai`i had been abolished by King Kamehameha II and for the first time commoners were allowed to eat with royalty and women and children were permitted to eat with men. Bananas, pork, turtle and coconuts, once forbidden delicacies, were enjoyed by all. This historic event was christened by a great feast (aha aina), which would give birth to the modern luau. For the first time traditional Hawaiian foods such as poi, yams, bananas, pigs, crabs and ferns were enjoyed alongside exotics from the New World: melons, pumpkins, onions and beef. It was a culmina10

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tion of traditions and new ideas, an end to the mysterious sacrificial rituals of the past and a doorway to the future. Over the years new cultures were readily adopted. Lomilomi, a dish of salted fish mixed with tomato and onions, was brought to the islands by Western ships. From Japan came rice, teriyaki and miso. Each year visitors brought with them new ingredients and ideas from around the globe. Hula, the traditional Hawaiian dance used to share stories for over 1,600 years, also evolved. Carefully choreographed hand movements and soft ukulele music were frequently replaced with the dramatic fire dancing of Samoa and fast-paced Tahitian drumming. In 1856 the Pacific Coast Advertiser first referred to the `aha`aina or pa’ina as a “luau,� borrowing the Hawaiian name for taro leaf, an ingredient essential to many traditional Polynesian dishes. This new name was quickly embraced and is used almost exclusively today. Many things have changed in Hawai`i over the last 200 years, but the aloha spirit remains strong. Across the islands friends and families celebrate life together with food and music, paying tribute to their own distinctive heritage through recipes and traditions. Whether you come together around a smoldering imu, a barbecue on your back porch or just a bottle of wine with a few friends, never forget that true spirit of the luau and the many things we have to be thankful for living here in Hawai`i.

Notes and recipes From

a backyard luau WILD POHOLE FERN SALAD WITH MAUI ONION AND HONEY-SESAME DRESSING These wild ferns grow abundantly in the Hawaiian rainforest. They have a crisp, refreshing texture and an unusual sap that creates a mild numbing sensation when eaten. Since the pohole has a very mild flavor I like to incorporate assertive herbs and flowers like the peppery Nasturtium blossom to liven things up. 1 pound fresh-harvested pohole ferns 1 large Maui onion 1 large ripe tomato ¼ cup cilantro leaves 3 tablespoons mint leaves 3 tablespoons Thai basil leaves ¼ cup nasturtium flowers 2 tablespoons sesame oil ¼ cup mild olive oil 1 tablespoon Hawaiian white honey 1 Hawaiian chile pepper 1 teaspoon chopped ginger 2 tablespoons white soy sauce 4 tablespoons rice wine vinegar 2 tablespoons lime juice Clean the pohole ferns and cut away any dried or tough stalks, leaving the tender leaves and upper stalk. Slice the Maui onion and tomato into a julienne (thin strips). Put the sesame oil, olive oil, honey, chile pepper, white soy, rice vinegar, ginger and lime juice into a blender and blend until smooth. Combine the pohole, nasturtiums, herb leaves, tomato and onion in a large bowl. Gently toss the fern mix with the honey-sesame dressing and season to taste.

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Another important indigenous food, opihi, was likely one of the most commonly eaten shellfish in ancient Hawaii. While traditionally enjoyed in its entirety, I prefer to remove the liver and other organs, leaving just the clean, shucked mussel. This extra step makes the opihi much more palatable, like a young abalone or clam. Again, please be respectful of local tradition before attempting to harvest opihi on your own. Many experienced harvesters have been washed from the rocks by rogue waves in pursuit of these tasty morsels.

These small black crabs that speckle the rocky outcroppings along the coast are an ancient staple of Hawaiian cuisine. The meat, what there is of it, is sweet and briny with the subtle aromas of seaweed and cucumber. Due to the daunting amount of effort required to remove even a meager amount of meat I prefer to incorporate the crab into a dressing for a green mango salad, where its distinctive flavor and salinity complement the sharp acidity of the mango. As with any wild resource, always seek permission before gathering these local delicacies.

20 fresh harvested opihi (between a quarter and half dollar in size) 4 cups Aloha shoyu 2 cups brown sugar 4 tablespoons Sriracha chile 1 lime leaf 1 small knob of ginger, crushed 4 tablespoons chopped cilantro 2 tablespoons chopped mint 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 4 tablespoons fresh orange juice Remove the opihi from their shells. Using a sharp knife, separate the meat and organs—discarding the organs. Clean the shells with a wire brush, removing as much seaweed and dirt as possible. Return the cleaned opihi to their shells. Put the shoyu and brown sugar into a 2-quart saucepan with the Sriracha, lime leaf and ginger; reduce by half, until large bubbles start to form. Add the fresh lime and orange juice followed by the chopped cilantro and mint.

Put the crabmeat, chile peppers, chopped ginger, garlic and cane sugar in a mortar. Aggressively mix with a pestle to form a coarse paste. Add the lime and orange juice. Peel the unripe mango and cut the meat away from the oblong seed. Discard the seed and slice the mango as thinly as possible, either with a sharp knife or handheld slicer.

Combine the herb leaves and shaved mango, then gently dress with the black crab dressing.

Put the opihi with sauce into refrigerator and allow to marinate for one hour. Place the opihi, shell side down, on a woodfired grill. Cook just until the marinade starts to bubble, then remove and eat like an oyster.

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With a small knife, make an incision on the underside of the crab just below the eyes. Using scissors, remove the legs and cut in half to remove flesh. Reserve the crabmeat and discard the shells. Some additional meat can be found by removing the lower shell and scraping along the gills.

Remove the stems from the herb leaves.

Cool this mixture slightly and spoon over each opihi.


5 large live A’ama crabs 2 Hawaiian chile peppers 1 teaspoon finely chopped ginger 2 cloves of garlic 1 teaspoon cane sugar 2 tablespoons lime juice 4 tablespoons orange juice ¼ cup fresh mint leaves ¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves ¼ cup fresh Thai basil leaves 2 large mangos (still firm)

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OCTOPUS LUAU WITH TARO LEAF AND GINGER Cooking a fresh octopus for the first time can be intimidating even for the most seasoned chefs. However, despite its odd look and finicky reputation, it is easier than you think and well worth the effort. 1 medium-size octopus (fresh caught) 3 cups Alae red sea salt 1 large ginger root, thinly sliced 3 Hawaiian chile peppers, finely chopped 1 stalk of lemongrass, outside removed and finely chopped 4 cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced 6 cups water 6 cups fresh coconut milk 8 taro leaves Hold the octopus with a clean towel by the head, allowing the legs to dangle into the sink. Using a sharp knife, remove the head just above the legs and discard, cutting just high enough to keep the legs together. Place the octopus legs and Alae sea salt in a large bowl. Using your hands, aggressively knead the salt into the octopus. As you do this a rusty red foam will form and the slimy coating on the octopus will be removed. Continue kneading for five minutes. Rinse the octopus in ice-cold water to remove the salt. Slice the octopus legs into Âź-inch slices (slightly longer at the thin ends). Put the octopus into a 1-gallon pot with ginger, lemongrass, garlic and Hawaiian chile peppers. Cover in cold water and slowly bring to a simmer over low heat. Allow the water to barely simmer, uncovered, until it is half reduced (about two hours) Using a spoon, taste the cooking liquid. It should be salty like the ocean; add Alae sea salt as needed. Put the fresh coconut into the pot and bring back to a simmer. Remove the central stem from each taro leaf and wash thoroughly. Chop the taro leaves and add to the simmering coconut milk. Cook an additional half hour on low heat, adjust seasoning and serve.

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BY Melissa Chang


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Photo by G. Natale


For almost 40 years, the Hawai`i State Farm Fair has been the best way to promote awareness and support for Hawaii’s agriculture community, especially to people who live in the city. Urbanites flock to the event to learn about locally grown products, from fresh produce to farm animals. Over time, it grew to include carnival rides, games, and retail booths in an effort to attract a larger crowd and appeal to different audiences. It moved to various venues around Oahu; the time frame was adjusted to accommodate consumer traffic. This year, the Farm Fair is evolving into a new concept: It’s simply going to focus on Hawai`i agriculture. The new Hawai`i State Farm Fair will take place on July 26 and 27 on the Bishop Museum grounds. It will cost $3 for children from 4 to 12 years of age, and $5 for adults; HFBF members plus three guests can get in free. Parking is free at the Bishop Museum, Kapalama Elementary School, and Damien High School. “We stepped back and evaluated the whole event and decided it was time to streamline it and go back to its original focus—educating the public on agriculture, especially those that live in the urban core,” says HFBF Executive Director Alan Takemoto. “We looked at various locations, and then Bishop Museum suddenly came up as a willing entity to host us.” Tim Johns, Bishop Museum’s president and CEO, added: “The museum’s long history of educating families about Hawaii’s unique natural resources fits well with the Farm Fair’s message of sustainability, and the need to support those who care for and work with these precious resources.” Indeed, as the event has evolved, Hawaii’s agriculture has seen a big shift. In the 1960s, local farmers provided about 60 percent of the produce consumed in the state; today, that number is about 15 percent. According to Matthew Loke, the Administrator for the Agricultural Development Division of the State Department of Agriculture, Hawai`i only produces 20 percent of all milk sold and import 80 percent; 10 percent of beef; 32 percent of fresh fruits; and just 35 percent of fresh vegetables. “When you buy local products, it keeps the local economy going,” says Loke. “The money is circulated within the state, so the economic ‘leakage’ is much less. Agriculture products in general have a fairly high economic multiplier. A lot of the inputs are from Hawaii—land, water, soil, and labor.” “The Food Network has really educated the public on buying local products, as well as trying different things,” says former HFBF president Grant Hamachi. “It’s good for the industry. In order to keep up with consumer demands, the farmers need to then decide if they want to stay small, or go the next step with their businesses.” Current HFBF President Dean Okimoto, of Nalo Farms, agrees: “We’ll have farmers from the neighbor islands participating, so we

hope they may bring crops that don’t even make it to Oahu, such as local broccoli and celery. The field-to-table freshness really makes a difference in taste, and consumers can learn why it benefits them to buy local.” The HFBF is still looking for volunteers to help with this year’s Farm Fair. For more information, visit or call (808) 874-2074. “For members, it’s more than just an event; it’s about quality time spent, which is priceless. It’s a great time to catch up with each other, and an even better time to bond with their families, who often join them for the event,” said Hamachi, reflecting on time spent with his family while volunteering. By the way, the farm fair also serves a good cause. It serves as a fundraiser for the Hawai`i Farm Bureau Federation (HFBF). “The funds raised are needed to run the organization statewide, pay its employees, and enable support for legislative issues, events, and other things that benefit our members,” explained Katsumi Higa, who had worked on the fair for many years. “It’s very labor intensive, but it supports the organization that benefits us.”

Attractions and exhibits that will be part of the Fair include: • • • • • • • • •

Agricultural displays and activities 4-H Livestock Show and Auction Farmers’ Market Made In Hawai`i Products Orchid & Plant Sale Petting Zoo & Pony Rides Inflatable Bouncers Live Entertainment Food Booths

Local businesses and community organizations will present educational demonstrations and presentations such as: Floral arrangements using local plants, cooking with local products, aquaculture, composting, invasive agricultural products. In keeping with consumer trends, people can learn about organic produce, how to pick the right produce and pork, and new agriculture products in Hawai`i. For a list of other events promoting Hawaii’s agriculture on all of the Hawaiian islands, be sure also to check your local papers as well as the EVENTS page on our webssite at

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The Hawaii Healing Garden STATEWIDE FESTIVALS “Planting a seed of inspiration is the first step,” says Michael Saiz, cofounder of the Hawaii Healing Garden Festivals. “It is an act of intention that sets you on a learning path of nurturing, awakening and evolutionary experience.” What began on the Garden Island of Kaua`i in 2005 as a pilot project with a seed grant has now grown into an annual statewide festival series, showcasing Hawaii’s cultural healing arts, health and wellness and “green” sustainable living. The Hawaii Healing Garden Festivals are the brainchild of Saiz and Katherine Fisher, co-founders of the festivals and, the state’s leading online health and wellness resource. The festival idea evolved from their direct experience with Hawaii’s many cultural health practitioners, and an ongoing discovery of the diverse health and wellness, agricultural and environmental resources across the islands. Each island hosts a day of family-friendly events designed for children, adults and seniors, including: educational and cultural presentations; organic food and beverages from local restaurants; a healing arts fair; and performances by world-class musicians, such as Paula Fuga 16

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and Makana. Throughout the week following the festivals, workshops, organic farm tours and cooking and art classes are presented at unique locations around each island featuring local practitioners and experts. “The idea was to create an educational opportunity for the community to gather with cultural health practitioners, health educators, teachers, botanical experts, chefs and nutritionists, gardeners and farmers, agriculture and sustainability experts, health-oriented businesses and nonprofit organizations to showcase Hawaii’s growing healthy and green services and cultural resources,” says Saiz. “Now, take all this amazing potential and place it outside in nature and at cultural and educational sites across the state, and you have an empowering experience that celebrates Hawaii’s culture, health and environment.” The statewide festivals offer interactive nature experiences and cultural immersions at important cultural centers and botanical gardens such as the Amy Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden on the Island of Hawai`i, and O`ahu’s new Hi`ipaka center and botanical garden at Waimea Valley. The 2008 festivals have also expanded to include program collaborations with Malama Kaua`i at their new sustainability

center in Kilauea, as well as the Sustainable Living Institute of Maui at the Maui Community College in Kahului. “The holistic approach to health and environment is inherent within Hawaiian culture and other native cultural traditions worldwide,” says Fisher. “Cultural knowledge and traditions originate from our environments and our personal relationship with the air, land, water, sea, plants, herbs, minerals, foods, seasons and climate. All are important elements of medicinal traditions such as Hawaiian La`au Lapa`au, Ayurveda—used daily by many millions of people in India, Nepal and Sri Lanka, and Chinese, Tibetan, Filipino and Native American cultures." Fisher is currently completing a Chinese medicine degree at the Institute of Clinical Acupuncture and Oriental Medicine in Honolulu. She has studied Ayurveda, Chinese and Tibetan medicine in India, China and Nepal, as well as the Hawaiian healing arts on her home island of Kaua`i. “Food is medicine!” she says. “It is the foundation of our health and our connection to the environment. The quality of our foods and environment is an essential element in health or disease. And healthy food is ground zero in the prevention and treatment of disease.” The festivals explore our connection to food, health and the environment with presentations covering “Ayurveda’s Spices of Life” and “Chinese Dietary Therapy,” as well workshops like the “Farm to Table” organic farm tours and cooking classes, the “Medicine at Your Feet” healing arts hike and tincture-making classes, and Organic Certification classes offered by the Hawaii Organic Farmers Association. The 2008 festival guest presenters include: Hawaiian—Kaipo Kaneakua, Levon Ohai, Uala Lenta and Kumu Kehaulani Kekua Ayurveda—Margo Prem Uma Gal CAP, Dr. Tamar Hoffman and Darci Frankel Filipino Healing Arts & Medicinal Plants—Patrica Aguilana, RN, and Virgil Mayor Apostel Chinese Medicine and Qi Kung—licensed acupuncturists Leon Letoto, Michael Hamilton and David Leonard, and visiting artist Charlotte Abernathy Additional presentations by Dr. Lorrin Pang, a Maui-based scientist, medical doctor and World Health Organization consultant; Dr. Hector Valenzuela from the Department of Tropical Agriculture, UH Manoa; and Dr. Michael Ancharski, ND. International speaker Jerome River Black of Herbs America will give presentations and workshops on the healing pharmacopoeia of the Amazon Rainforest and the Andes Mountains of South America. He will explain the pharmacology, herbology and the cosmology of numerous tribes. Additional presenters and programs will be announced for each island. The community is invited to collaborate, support and participate in the festivals and workshops on all the islands. Presentation and workshop proposals are now being accepted for consideration in the festival programs. Exhibitor booths are available for businesses and

nonprofit organizations. Volunteers are invited to help with organizing, planning and festival-day activities, speaker support and workshops. Booth packets and event expo information is available online at or by calling 808-638-0888 (O`ahu). Those interested in becoming sponsors or contributors, are invited to contact the Hawaii Health Guide for further information. The Hawaii Healing Garden Festivals are presented by Hawai`i Health Guide with support from the Hawaii Tourism Authority. Donations are facilitated via the local nonprofit The Forward Foundation 501(c)3. Media kits and more info may be found online at or

SUSTAINING ORGANIZATIONS The Hawaii Tourism Authority, Bishop Museum, Waimea Valley Hi`ipaka LLC, Malama Kauai, University of Hawaii, Maui Community College, The Sustainable Institute of Maui, Amy Greenwell Botanical Garden, Carolyn Quan Gallery, Kaua`i Federal Credit Union, Young Brothers, the Forward Foundation, Hawaii Health Guide and many other local businesses and individuals. CONTACT: Hawaii Health Guide 808-638-0888

KAUA`I—June 21–26 June 21: Summer Solstice Celebration, Malama Kaua`i, Kilauea June 22: Workshop and Tour Day, Malama Kaua`i, Kilauea June 23–26: Remote workshops and tours O`AHU—August 23–27 August 23: Festival Day, Waimea Valley, Hi`ipaka Center, North Shore August 24: Workshop and Tour Day, Waimea Valley, North Shore August 25–27—Remote workshops and tours MAUI—Sept 27–30 September 27: Festival Day, Maui Community College, Kahului September 28–30: Remote workshops and tours HAWAI`I—November 1–6 November 1: Festival Day, Amy Greenwell Botanical Garden November 2: Workshop and Tour Day, Amy Greenwell Botanical Garden November 3–6: Remote workshops and tours

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fresh Summer Beauties or, You Take Da Lime and De Coconut… By Dahlia Haas Photos by Dahlia Haas


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This is the time of year chefs and cooks love the most. Summer gets me yearning for tall, chilled, fruity drinks; breakfast smoothies; zesty barbecue basting sauces and refreshing salads. Farmers’ markets and produce stands on the islands are heaped with gorgeous vegetables and a riot of herbs and greens. The beautiful selection of sensational fruit such as mangos, papayas, pineapples, avocados and limesare prime and take center stage. Without a doubt, there is nothing better than eating a jumbo ripe mango or a sweet squishy lilikoi out of hand. Sliced fruit served au natural can’t be beat—except when added to a seafood ceviche, turned into a granita or blended into a sublime chilled soup. I’ve concocted four cool summery recipes, casual enough for a picnic at the beach or an upscale cocktail get-together. The seafood ceviche should be made two days before serving, so the flavors of the coconut milk and citrus juices deepen. Make a big vat of the homebrewed tropical vodka cooler. It will keep in the fridge for over a month. If you decide to make the pineapple-verbena granita, the good news is that it doesn’t require an ice cream machine. In fact, the ingredients go into a blender in one fell swoop and then off to the freezer to harden. It is rich as ice cream and too easy to make. With the long hot days of summer approaching, shelve the rice cooker and crock pot, break out the blender and give the stove and oven a rest… at least until September.

HOME-BREWED TROPICAL VODKA COOLERS Makes 4 servings 1 cup infused vodka (see recipe below) ½ cup triple sec or Cointreau 1 cup passion fruit or cranberry juice ¼ cup lime juice Combine the ingredients in a pitcher or a large shaker with ice cubes, shake well and strain into frozen martini glasses. Garnish with fresh mint leaves or pineapple rounds. Ingredients for the Vodka Infusion: 3 cups vodka 4 cups pineapple juice 3 cups fresh pineapple, peeled and chopped 12 ounces assorted dried fruit, pineapple, lychee, banana, mango, papaya Place all the above ingredients in a large wide-mouth container with a top. Stir to combine. Place container in the refrigerator to infuse, covered, for three days up to one month.

COCONUT LIME CEVICHE Makes 8 servings 2 cups lime juice ½ cup lemon juice 1 cup coconut milk (unsweetened) ½ bunch cilantro 4 tablespoons honey 1½ tablespoons ed jalapeño, roasted, seeded and minced 1 tablespoon shallots, minced 4 tablespoons green onion, with whites, sliced ½ papaya, diced ½ mango, diced ¼ red bell pepper, small dice 3 pounds fresh shrimp, ono, tuna and swordfish, cubed 2 teaspoons lime zest, minced Place lemon juice, lime juice, coconut milk, cilantro and honey in the blender and purée. Place in a large bowl. Add the rest of the ingredients and marinate in the refrigerator for three days in a covered bowl until fish is thoroughly cured. To serve: Ladle ceviche into individual glasses or a large serving bowl and garnish with lime wedges and fresh chopped cilantro.

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Makes 4 servings ½ cup almonds, blanched and lightly toasted 1 cup coconut milk (unsweetened) 3 large English cucumbers 1 large avocado (save the pit) 4 tablespoons pickled ginger, chopped 3 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 cups vegetable stock Dash Tabasco, or chili oil to taste 2 tablespoons lime juice ¼ cup sour cream Chives or green onion for garnish Place almonds in a blender with the coconut milk and pulse until smooth. Using a knife, peel the cucumber down to the seeds. Chop skin and flesh; place in a juicer until liquefied. Strain almond and cucumber mixtures through a strainer and discard solids. Put cucumber juice and almond-coconut milk in the work bowl of a food processor with the avocado and ginger. Pulse to purée. Mixture will be thick. Add vinegar and the rest of the ingredients (except sour cream) and whirl in the food processor till well puréed. Remove mixture from the work bowl and pour into a large serving bowl. Chill in the refrigerator for three hours or overnight. Divide avocado soup among four small martini glasses. Garnish with dabs of sour cream and a sprig of chive.

1 cup water 2/3 cup brown sugar 1 small bunch of verbena leaves or 2 stalks of lemon grass, diced 2/3 cup coconut milk (unsweetened) 4 cups fresh pineapple, peeled and cubed Simmer water, sugar and verbena in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Strain through a colander to remove the verbena. Pour coconut milk through a strainer and place solid portion of the coconut milk with the fresh pineapple in the work bowl of a food processor. Save the coconut liquid for another use. Purée solid coconut milk with the fresh pineapple until smooth. Add the hot sugar syrup to the pineapple purée and pulse until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a shallow metal or plastic dish about 9 by 13 and place in the freezer uncovered for about 4 hours or overnight. Once you remove the granita from the freezer, use a fork to break up or grate the frozen fruit into a smooth mixture and refreeze for 2 hours. To serve, break up the granita with a fork and serve in ice cream cones or wine goblets.


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Liquid Assets Brew in Hawai`i

Photo courtesy of: Brew Moon Restaurant & Microbrewery

By Tim Ryan


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edible hawaiian islands

Brewmasters have a lot of things in common besides their appreciation for beer. Most of the Hawai`i brewers who make “craft” beer—think very low volume compared to the big boys—at some of the eight craft breweries on Kaua`i, O`ahu, Maui and the Big Island started making beer at home because, pragmatically, it was cheaper than store-bought beer, they could make more of it at home and the result eventually tasted a whole lot better. Part of home brewing usually included experimenting with flavors. “First of all, with any beer style there are no hard rules,” said Greg Yount, brewer at Brew Moon’s Honolulu restaurant in Ward Centre. “Variations within styles are expected concerning flavor, ingredients and methods of brewing. “We each have our own interpretation of what we consider appropriate for the style and you go for that.” In Hawai`i that means at least a dash of something exotic to represent the tropics: Kona coffee, mango, honey, pineapple, passion fruit, among others. All the brewers agree on what is perhaps the most important ingredient: water. “Hawai`i has some of the finest, cleanest water in the world,” said Kona Brewing Company’s brewmaster Rich Tucciarone. “We’re thousands of miles from any urban pollution so there is no need to filter toxins from the water.” Kona Brewing Company, whose main brewery is on the Big Island, is the largest craft brewery in Hawai`i, producing more than 11,000 barrels—22,000 kegs—of beer annually. The company has about eight beer products and five seasonal releases. Several are sold in stores throughout Hawai`i and parts of the mainland. Kona Brewing Company partners with a Portland microbrewery to produce beer for the mainland market with the same recipes used in Hawai`i. Minerals are added to the water at the Portland brewery to replicate Kona water, Tucciarone said. Kona Brewing Company introduced Pacific Golden Ale (now called Big Wave Golden Ale) and Fire Rock Pale Ale to Hawai`i in bottles and kegs in 1995. Longboard Island Lager was added three years later. Since then 10 other styles of beer are brewed on a regular basis and served at the company’s two Hawai`i pubs—Kona and Hawai`i Kai on O`ahu. These range in color from very blonde to black; in flavor from tangy to hoppy to roasty. The company’s most unusual beer is its Limited Release Pipeline Porter that combines a rich and roasty craft Porter and 100 percent Hawaiian Kona Coffee from the Big Island’s Cornwell Estate. It’s available only from October to March throughout Hawai`i and select markets in the United States, Japan and China. It used Maui sugar and Big Island ginger in some beers.

Tucciarone’s philosophy about specialty beers is that “first and foremost it must taste like beer with other ingredients as accent, complementary, never overwhelming. “We try to err on the shy side,” he said. Its three flagship beers are Longboard Island Lager, Fire Rock Pale Ale and the Limited Release beers. Brew Moon’s Yount says the water’s mineral content contributes largely to the beer’s flavor. “When a wide range of brewing waters is used, that translates into different styles of beers,” he said. “Hawai`i’s beer is very consistent in mineral content.” Hawai`i water has a “fairly high” mineral content of sodium, calcium, some chlorides, Tucciarone said. The Aloha State has more than a 150-year history of beer making. Early Spanish settler in Honolulu Don Francisco de Paula Marin brewed beer at Hawai`i’s first full-scale brewery in 1854 when the Honolulu Brewery opened. Then came the National Brewery Company in Kalihi, which produced steam beer from 1888 to 1893. The Honolulu Brewing and Malting Co., Ltd., makers of Primo Beer, started production in 1901, and continued until the arrival of Prohibition. Other beer manufacturers included the makers of Royal Beer. Hawai`i’s first real microbrewery was Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant opening in 1994 at the Aloha Tower Marketplace. The company also has mainland restaurant-breweries and distributes throughout the United States. Gordon Biersch’s main brewery is in Palo Alto, California. Unlike solely Hawai`i-based breweries, Gordon Biersch’s beer sticks to its award-winning corporate recipes including a special yeast imported from Germany and not using any of the exotic flavors found at Hawai`i’s other craft breweries. Brew Moon doesn’t use local flavors either. Its tasty Moon Berry Wheat Ale is made with an imported raspberry extract. Its most popular brews are the Big Bang Pale Ale and Orion’s Red Ale, Yount said. When he joined Brew Moon six years ago Yount wanted to make the beers “more consistent and fuller” than they had been. “They were pretty light-bodied before and I thought it was time for maybe a bit heavier beer,” he said. It wasn’t long before Yount, who spent two years in Palau as a brewmaster, began experimenting with specialty styles. One of Yount’s favorites is Orion’s Red Ale, which has a distinctive creamy taste. “I’ve done a chocolate Kona coffee oatmeal stout where we used pure Kona coffee and it was very well received,” Yount said. “Of course, it also had a 10 percent alcohol content…” Hawai`i brewers get their barley from the United States, Canada and Germany; hops are grown in four other regions of the world.

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Brew Moon’s beer only is available at its restaurant, though kegs are sold from here as well. The brewery produces just 600 barrels a year. The immense popularity of craft beer is simple, Yount and Tucciarone agreed. “Americans didn’t have the opportunity to discover good beer for a long time,” Yount said. “We sort of were forced into doing the mass-produced beer thing. “I think when a brewery gets to be a certain size it tends to change the quality and distinctiveness of he product.” Maui Brewing Company’s brewery, set in the middle of Lahaina, is a forwardlooking business concerned about making quality, distinctive beer as well as helping the community and environmental issues. Owner Garrett Marrero, a former investment consultant, and his wife Melanie created the brewery in 2004 in a former Kahana brewpub. Tom Kerns, who grew up in Oregon wine country, is the brewer. This past April MBC began selling three of its beers in stores. Like all of Hawai`i’s microbreweries, the company’s spent grain goes to local farms to feed livestock. The pubs’ used vegetable oil powers the company’s vehicles. Kerns is especially proud that Maui Brewing Company’s brewpub lighting is all compact fluorescents. Photovoltaic solar cells to generate all the brewery’s electricity will be installed by end of summer, he said. The company uses reusable cardboard boxes designed by Garrett. The company puts its beer in cans, not bottles. Since the cans’ interiors are coated with a waterbased liner, the beer never comes in contact with the metal so there’s no foul taste. “Cans keep the quality of beer longer,” he said, “and cans can be recycled, get colder faster, are lighter than glass.” (Ball Canning, a local plant, creates MBC’s exclusive cans. MBC’s award-winning brews, including its unique Coconut Porter, use Hawai`i ingredients including pineapple, rum and organic Manoa O’hia lehua blossom honey. Maui Gold Summer Ale is brewed with Hawaiian honey, cane sugar and pineapple. Kerns calls the Coconut Porter “a classic robust porter spiced with all-natural toasted coconut.” The beer is black in color and crowned with a creamy, dark tan head. Maui Brewing Company’s signature beers are Bikini Blonde, a light Germanstyle lager; Big Swell IPA, an India pale ale; and the aforementioned Coconut Porter, made with toasted coconut. In its first year MBC brewed 433 barrels. In 2008 the company expects to hit 5,000 barrels, Kerns said. The company currently has distribution to Japan and California. Hawaiian Airlines serves MBC’s Bikini Blonde Lager on all Transpacific, South Pacific and Asia bound flights. Other Hawai`i craft breweries include Sam Choy’s Big Aloha Brewery on O`ahu, Mehana Brewing Company on the Big Island, and Waimea Brewing Company and Keoki Brewing Company on Kaua`i.

From top: Calvin Shindo oversees quality control along the bottling line. Photo by Macario; Garrett Marrero, owner of Maui Brewing Co., touts his Bikini Blond Lager. Photo courtesy of Maui Brewing Co.; Brewmaster Dave Campbell checks a batch of beer at Sam Choy’s Big Aloha Brewery. Photo by Odeelo Dayondon. 24

Summer 2008

edible hawaiian islands

Book Review The Hawai`i Beer Book By Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi reviewed by Tim Ryan

Veteran Hawai`i writer Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi has written a definitive, easy-to-understand primer on Hawai`i-brewed beer—and beer in general—that should quench the intellectual thirst of any brewski aficionado. Tsutsumi discusses beer history, home beer brewing, beer appreciation and cuisine—yes, beer cuisine!—and trivia. Perhaps most useful in this sturdy book—lots of page turning will not damage this heavy stock—are fairly in-depth discussions of eight of Hawai`i’s breweries, each accompanied by beautiful color photos of brewmasters and their products. The book lists brewery locations and beer products whose names are as colorful as the state in which they’re brewed: Brew Moon’s Big Bang Pale Ale; Sam Choy’s Big Aloha Brewery’s Monk Seal Abbey Ale; Maui Brewing Company’s Coconut Porter; Kona Brewing Company’s Lavaman Red Ale; Mehana Brewing Company’s Humpback Blue Beer; Waimea Brewing Company’s Cane Fire Red; and Keoki Brewing Company’s Tropical Tan Strong Ale. Tsutsumi took special care in the chapter titled Beer Appreciation 101 to explain the styles of beer and how, generally, they should taste. It’s straight to the point and may make your next trip to liquor department a bit easier. There’s also a list of how to keep beer properly so as to not spoil its taste, including perhaps the obvious: Do not freeze beer because it destroys its balance of hops and grains. The beer cuisine recipes will have your mouth watering: Corona-Infused BBQ Pork Skewers; Longboard LilikoiMahimahi; Coconut Beer Shrimp with Orange Mustard Sauce, and Beer Battered Apple Fritters. For any future update of this book, readers, I want to see a photo of the author chugging at least one of the selections she writes about. (Tsutsumi is a renowned teetotaler but says she tried several for this book.) If a book about grog should get the reader to sample a few, then The Hawai`i Beer Book scores four out of four on my Keg Scale. Watermark Publishing, 2007 $15.95

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Recipes from Jim Moffat Chef/Owner of Bar Acuda, Hanalei. 808.826.7081

GAZPACHO We serve this in the heat of summer with a dollop of homemade horseradish ice cream. Almost all of the ingredients are local and organic. 2 English cucumbers, peeled and diced 3 garlic cloves, chopped 6 ripe tomatoes, seeded and roughly chopped 2 stalks celery, chopped 1 red onion, chopped 2 fresh bell peppers, seeded and chopped 1 loaf stale bread ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup sherry vinegar 1 lemon, zest and juice ½ tablespoon salt ¼ cup parsley, chopped ¼ cup basil, chopped ½ teaspoon cayenne 2 avocados 2 cups ice water

Macerate everything except the avocado, water and basil for 24 hours.

ORANGE OLIVE OIL CAKE A wonderful rich, moist cake chock-full of citrus zest. 2 small oranges, sliced and boiled until soft in sugar syrup (2 cups sugar in 1 cup water—save syrup for other use) 1 lemon, sliced and boiled until soft 4 eggs ½ teaspoon salt 1½ cups sugar 1 cup flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 6 ounces almonds, toasted and ground 2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil Boil the fruit until soft. Cool and chop peel by hand-removing any bitter pith. Grind almonds and set aside with flour and baking powder. Beat eggs with salt and then add sugar slowly until thick and light. Fold in flour mixture, then fruit, then olive oil.

Grind the mixture in a food processor with the avocados and basil.

Bake in two 9-inch pans or 13 individual pans at 350 degrees.

Add the ice water and adjust the seasoning. Serve ice cold!

Photo by G. Natale


Summer 2008

edible hawaiian islands

summer 2008


Are you going to

San Francisco? The First Continental Culinary Congress wants you.

Photo by Carole Topalian

By Brian Halweil


Summer 2008

edible hawaiian islands

When the motley horde of salmon smokers, cheese mavens, boutique winemakers, chutney canners, counterculture chefs, guerrilla gardeners, food gurus and plain old citizens interested in the cosmic change happening to America’s diet, descends on San Francisco this Labor Day for Slow Food Nation, it will be a watershed moment in our nation’s history. Group it with the march on Washington, Woodstock, the Seattle WTO protest and other comings together that formed inflection points in the nation’s collective consciousness. Because in the age of food activism, what we put in our mouths doesn’t just sate and please. It’s our thrice-daily chance to affect the world around us. “It’s the first continental culinary congress,” says Gary Nabhan, the Arizona anthropologist who’s been talking about the pleasures of eating local before most locavores were even born. When he stopped by the Slow Food Nation office recently, he flashed back nearly four decades to the atmosphere of the first Earth Day headquarters, complete with boundless interns, tireless brainstorming and sincere faith that “we can change the world.” There’s no doubt it will be a good party. The city’s Civic Center will be stocked with aisles of cheeses, olives, wines, breads and honeys—mostly little known and beautifully made, but all crafted in the USA. From Buffalo’s Flying Bison Brewery beers to Colorado bison jerky, from Mississippi salami to Texas mozzarella, from Carolina pumpkin chip preserves to Royal Hawaiian honey, this land was made for you and me. The legendary Ferry Plaza farmers market will offer an even more exhaustive selection of California foods than usual, from dried Blenheim apricots to salumi to nut butters of every persuasion. Restaurants from the Mission to the Haight will feature menus that resonate with the event. Slow on the Go will sample the city’s ethnic eats, from Vietnamese bahn mi sandwiches to tacos with free-range pork. A banquet for 500 diners will celebrate the solidarity between rural and urban, farmer and eater. But it will not just be about the food. On the eco-gastronome spectrum—to borrow a term from Slow Food godfather Carlo Petrini—the American brand of Slow Food has always been more eco than gastronome. Perhaps it’s because our food traditions, while they do exist, aren’t quite as deeply rooted as in the Old Country. Perhaps it’s also because we seek redemption for our dysfunctional eating habits. Like the sinner who gets saved, the United States—dysfunctional eating habits and all—has in short order assumed a leadership role in the international movement founded as a counter-offensive to the first McDonald’s opening in Rome. America’s 15,000 intrepid members and 150 chapters nationwide represent the largest contingent outside of Italy. (The map of these chapters overlaps closely with a certain grow-

ing network of local food magazines.) The New York City Slow Food chapter’s membership is second only to Rome’s. Buoyed by a quickening appetite for good food, this country’s pantry of farmstead cheeses, craft beers, single batch spirits, heirloom veggies, and heritage meats rivals and dazzles its counterparts from Europe. American chapters have organized some of the movement’s most innovative programs, often intervening in cases where the U.S. government has faltered. The Edible Schoolyard project spurred a national debate about what we feed our kids, while inspiring a parallel effort back in Italy. In the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, Slow Food USA created the Terra Madre Katrina Relief Fund with the help of convivia around the nation, to support Gulf of Mexico food communities; recipients ranged from oystermen and shrimpers trying to get their boats back in the water to African-American farmers who raise forgotten varieties of sweet potatoes to New Orleans chefs struggling to retain unique Southern cuisines. Yes, something may be afoot in American eating habits. “Locavore” was named word of the year. More people keep chickens than in recent memory. Your kid’s school may have installed a salad bar, and it may actually be stocking that salad bar with organic greens grown nearby. “We are about to birth a new movement,” says event organizer Anya Fernald. “And the new movement is about connecting plate and planet.” Pleasure and politics will pleasantly collide, as people taste, but also strategize. Activists from across the land will gather to sketch out a national holiday for picnics and sign a mock dream Farm Bill. Chefs from coast to coast will take station in the Green Kitchen, armed only with mortar and pestle and a single burner, crafting essential, simple recipes for busy modern people. Outside the Civic Center, a 15,000-square-foot organic veggie garden—a modern day Victory Garden at a time of soaring food prices, stubborn hunger, and war—is already coming to life. By fall, attendees will literally see the abundance that is possible if we want to dig up our lawns, support a family farm, or plant a seed. It will be a heavenly overwhelming display of exactly what it means to eat and live well. But remember, it will also be a sort of call to arms. So grab your fork and take a seat at the table. will be a watershed moment in our nation’s history.

Brian Halweil is the author of Eat Here: Reclaiming Homegrown Pleasures in a Global Supermarket. He is the editor of Edible East End and publisher of Edible Brooklyn and Edible Manhattan.

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Summer 2008

edible hawaiian islands

What’s Fresh

Summer Vegetables: Beans Bittermelon Chinese Cabbage Celery Cucumber Daikon Ginger Root Lu`au (Taro) Mushrooms Tomato

Photo by G. Natale

Fruit: Banana Lime Longon Mango Papaya Pineapple Soursop Dragon Fruit Tamarind

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Summer 2008

edible hawaiian islands

The Sustainable

Tourist By Devany Vickery-Davidson Photos By Devany Vickery-Davidson

As the plane landed, I felt myself aching for the ever-embracing soft air of Hawai`i. All I could think about was putting the top down on the car and riding under the luxuriantly green jungle along the Red Road on the Puna Coast, anticipating the wonders of the Big Island’s many farmers’ markets. Yes, I came for the incredible Hawaiian climate and yes, I came to enjoy blissful days snorkeling and hiking and touring, but most of all … I CAME TO COOK! When I tell people we are planning on moving to the Big Island, the first thing most of them say is, “Lucky you!” The second thing they say is, “Oh, but it is so expensive there!” I guess I am glad for that stereotype in a small way, as it keeps real estate prices somewhat reasonable and prevents a massive immigration to Hawai`i. I usually take the opportunity to educate them about how sustainable farming actually works better and is more important in Hawai`i than many locales because of the limits and prices imposed by importing goods to the islands vs. growing, producing and creating local products. It is all about living locally in every aspect of your life. On our latest trip to the Big Island it was my objective to eat locally as much as possible. This meant shopping at farmers’ markets and grocers who sell local products. Because we rent a house in Puna’s Kehena Bay area, there actually are not many other options. It is a place without a single hotel and only a handful of restaurants (none closer than 15 miles). In each of Puna’s two major towns, there are only about two blocks of commerce. In Pahoa, Puna’s largest town, there are two farmers’ markets, Island Naturals—an excellent natural foods market offering locally grown and produced organic goods, a fantastic fish market, a large grocery store and a juice store offering fresh juices. Because I was on a quest for the “Best of Hawai`i” in locally grown produce, we made the 45 minute trip each Saturday and Wednesday to

Hilo’s fantastic farmers’ markets as well as to Thursday, Friday and Saturday markets in surrounding communities. During our two weeks in Puna, we dined out in Pahoa at Kaleo’s twice and in Hilo at Café Pesto (both featuring local food) but for the most part we “cooked in” three meals a day. I bought things abundantly, hoping to have the best of the best local foods at their peak of ripeness, knowing that no matter how much I spent I would not be paying one quarter as much as if someone else was cooking our meals and washing our dishes. While I did use as many local products as I could, there were a few imported items like rice and some Asian condiments. We were fortunate to find not only local fruits and vegetables, as one would imagine, but also local herbs, tortillas, miso, tofu, goat cheese, milk, butter, breads, eggs, free-range beef, chicken, pork and, of course, fish. No trip to the islands would be perfect without freshly ground Kona coffee beans every morning. Every morning we had a lavish spread of local fruits, some as exotic as rambutan, apple bananas, mountain apples and purple star apple (notice the apple theme here?). In actuality, most of them are nothing like an apple, but then neither is a pineapple. After a short time I realized that apple was the word used for naming many unusual fruits. Some mornings I made Mac Nut Pancakes topped with guava syrup made by thinning down and heating guava jelly I bought at the Hilo Farmers’ Market. We started off every day with freshly ground Kona coffee and fresh juices. The abundance of tropical and exotic fruits in Hawai`i is one of the best things about being on the island. I piled masses of them around the house and we used them at every meal in some way. Their perfume filled the house as a side benefit. When I popped the fruit out of my

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VEGETABLES WITH TOFU IN SESAME MISO SAUCE This dish is substantial enough for a meat-free entrée. I found myself actually making chicken stock on vacation in Hawai`i because all I could find was canned broth. We had grilled a chicken the night before and I rescued the bones from that along with onions, garlic, carrots and celery to make a small batch of stock. I used the remaining stock to cook rice the next day. Miso Sauce: ½ cup miso 1 cup chicken stock ½ cup mirin 3 tablespoons fish sauce In a bowl, combine all of the miso sauce ingredients together and mix well. Set aside. 4 tablespoons sesame oil ¼ cup peanut oil 2 tablespoons garlic, finely chopped 1 tablespoon ginger, finely grated 1 cup sugar snap peas, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 cup Chinese celery, sliced on the diagonal 1 Maui onion, sliced and cut into bite-size pieces 2 cups mixed red, green and orange bell peppers, julienned 1 cup choi sum leaves and stems, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 cup Hamakua mushrooms, cut into 1-inch pieces ¼ cup garlic chives, roughly chopped 14 ounces organic firm tofu, drained well and broken into pieces Heat wok with sesame and peanut oil until it starts to smoke. Add garlic, ginger and all of the vegetables, reserving the tofu and cilantro until the end. Stir fry all vegetables for approximately 1–2 minutes. Add miso sauce and tofu. Combine quickly until coated well and serve. Garnish with black sesame seeds.


Summer 2008

edible hawaiian islands

first rambutan, I decided I could use the shell to serve small portions of my coconut mousse later in the day. The possibilities were endless and I really enjoyed discovering the exotic gems of the island. On Pahoa Highway there are several trucks selling Ahi tuna and sometimes other fish such as Ono/Wahoo, which is so Ono! I made my own tuna salad using a leftover piece of grilled ahi and sometimes seared a piece coated in sesame or mac nuts in coconut oil I bought at the Pahoa Farmers’ Market. The coconut oil makes a great skin butter at room temperature. The man who renders it also said it works well as a hair conditioner, but I did not take it that far. Tuna melts with avocado, onion sprouts, tomatoes and cheese became a favorite lunch. I made taro chips by slicing them very thinly and frying, then topping with finely chopped chives and red sea salt. Sometimes I made an aioli to dip them in. I kept a pitcher of ginger tea in the refrigerator along with fresh juices for refreshment. Most evenings at the cocktail hour I would concoct my “Puna Punch,” a variation on the Mai Tai. We would have pupus and sit on the lanai till the Coqui frogs started to sing. This event heralded dinner, which usually consisted of grilled local fish, chicken or beef (the local grass-fed beef was especially awesome), a salad with Hamakua Springs greens, grilled pineapple or mangos topped with raw sugar as they grilled. I baked yams or stir fried rice. Chayote were stuffed with onion, chiles, garlic breadcrumbs and local Portuguese sausages and baked. I stir fried fern heads and added a bit of local miso glaze for extra flavor. For dessert (if there was room) we had more sumptuous fresh fruit and an occasional coconut or guava mousse. Miso soup was made daily (sometimes for breakfast), adding mushrooms, fern heads, chives and tofu made in Hilo. One day I was thinking about our dinner and needed some chicken stock. Back at home I have an entire freezer dedicated to stocks, so I would not think of buying canned stock. It only took me a moment to decide to use the chicken bones from the previous evening’s meal to whip up a quick batch of stock. I actually made myself laugh when I thought about it, “Here I am on vacation making chicken stock!” I also made my own mayonnaise without a second thought. We made a visit to Barbara Fahs’ Hi`iaka’s Healing Herb Garden (, where she led us around educating us about the variety of local plants which one could enjoy for sustenance as well as healing. It is easy to imagine what our life will be like when we are living in Hawai`i full time: much like our vacation was, living sustainability while enjoying the many flavors of locally grown, harvested and produced foods. It really is paradise isn’t it? Aloha au i, Hawai`i! For a list of Farmers’ Markets, see the directory on page 46.

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HAWAIIAN PINEAPPLE STIR FRIED RICE I took Ming Tsai’s basic fried rice recipe from the cookbook, Breath of a Wok by Grace Young and Alan Richardson and “Hawaiianized” it for this classic Hawaiian treatment of the Hawaiian staple of rice. In Hawai`i, rice is served with every meal, even breakfast. At lunch and dinner it is commonly served even when other starches are present. Rice is also one of the few foods so important to the Hawaiian diet that is not grown/harvested in Hawaii. Fried rice was the first recipe that Ming learned as a 10-year-old boy in his mother’s restaurant, the Mandarin Kitchen in Dayton, Ohio. Interestingly, my husband grew up in Dayton and remembers going there as a young adult on dates! Talk about a small world. You can also add “leftovers” in this recipe. I often add fresh water chestnuts, slivered carrots, diced red peppers, bean sprouts, mushrooms, small shrimp, tofu celery, etc. Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish or 2 people as an entrée 1 fresh medium-sized ripe pineapple 2 tablespoons minced ginger 4 cups of cold leftover rice (I generally use Brown Jasmine or Basmati but this can be done with any rice except sweet rice or sushi rice) 2 tablespoons canola or peanut oil 2 teaspoons sesame oil 2 large eggs, beaten 1 Chinese sausage (Lop Chung) or Chinese red pork (Char Siu), cut into 1/8-inch dice* 4 scallions, sliced on the diagonal 2 large shallots or 1 Maui onion, finely chopped ¾ cup frozen peas 2 tablespoons minced garlic 2 Hawaiian hot chile peppers or 1 red Thai chile or Serrano chile, finely diced ¼ cup Chinese celery tops (omit if you cannot find this) 1 tablespoons of fish sauce 2 tablespoons of dark soy sauce 2 tablespoons of palm sugar, brown sugar or sugar in the raw (divided) ¼ teaspoon white pepper ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro ½ cup toasted chopped macadamia nuts

Cut the pineapple in half lengthwise and scoop out the fruit. You can use a pineapple cutter or a curved grapefruit knife. Reserve ½ of the pineapple meat and cut the remaining pineapple into ¾-inch chunks. Brush the inside of the two pineapple halves with oil or spray with cooking spray. Place in a 375-degree oven or on a grill inside facing down till the pineapple starts to brown slightly (about 10 minutes). In a large bowl place the pineapple and ginger. Stir in 1 tablespoon of sugar. Stir. This brings out the juices in the pineapple and ginger. Heat a large flat-bottomed wok or skillet until a bead of water vaporizes within 1–2 seconds of contact. Stir in one tablespoon of the canola oil and one tablespoon of the sesame oil. Add the eggs and cook 30 seconds to one minute till the egg has set, swirling the pan so that you get a flat pancake of egg. Transfer the egg to a cutting board and cut into strips. Reserve. Swirl in the remaining two oils and turn up the heat to high. Add garlic, chili peppers, Chinese celery, shallots and stir fry 30 seconds. Add the Chinese sausage or Char Siu. Stir fry for 1 minute. Add peas, scallions, rice, pineapple/ginger mixture and stir fry another minute. Combine fish sauce, remaining sugar and soy sauce and add to the stir fry. Toss in egg shreds and cilantro. Sprinkle with white pepper and taste. Adjust if needed. Pour the mixture into the pineapple shells. Keep warm in a 250-degree oven till ready to serve. I feel that warming the rice in the pineapple adds additional flavors. Garnish with the mac nuts. * NOTE: Other protein can be used in place of or in addition to the Chinese sausage, but I believe that pork adds the best flavor. The sausages are available at Chinese markets/butcher shops and look like a small dry skinny salami. You can also use Chinese red pork (Char Siu) or smoked ham or bacon for this. I personally like the Char Siu best and found it easily in Hawaii. You could also use smoked turkey legs or even leftover smoked chicken if you are on a diet. 36

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edible hawaiian islands


Photo by Carole Topalian

1 cup chopped assorted bell peppers (red, green and yellow) 1 cup sour cream 1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened ½ fresh pineapple, chopped very fine with juice 1/8 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh cilantro or parsley 2 tablespoon thinly sliced green onion 2 teaspoon finely chopped seeded Hawaiian hot pepper (or jalapeño) 1 teaspoon grated lime peel 1 teaspoon lime juice Platter of assorted fresh vegetables In a small mixer bowl, combine chopped bell peppers, sour cream, cream cheese, crushed pineapple, salt, cilantro, green onion, jalapeño, grated lime peel and lime juice. Beat at medium speed, scraping the bowl often, until well mixed (1 to 2 minutes). Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving. Serve with a platter of fresh vegetables sticks. Makes 3 cups of dip.

PUNA PUNCH For a tall glass of this, I use ¼ cup of each ingredient. If you are making a pitcher, a cup of each should make four or five tall drinks or eight short ones. Take equal amounts of each of these fresh-squeezed or frozen unsweetened juices: Passion fruit Orange Pineapple Add one measure of Hana Bay (or other good quality) dark rum Stir well and serve over ice. DO NOT DRIVE!

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Summer 2008

edible hawaiian islands




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summer 2008


Talk Story

Sweet Celebration The History and Future of Sugar Cane in Hawai`i By Jon Letman • Photos Jon Letman


Summer 2008

edible hawaiian islands

The first voyaging Polynesians to reach the Hawaiian Islands arrived in canoes laden with their most important food plants— taro, coconut, breadfruit, sweet potato, banana and yam. Each of the nearly 30 plants they selected had functions and significance beyond the ordinary, for each had to merit space in the crowded outriggers. One plant, a perennial member of the grass family, was easy to transport, grew quickly and had a multiplicity of uses from thatching, windbreaks and medicine to borders, recreation and dental care. This grass, known in Hawaiian as kō, was most favored as a food and sweetener. Saccharum or sugar cane, was first cultivated in New Guinea, then in India as long as 10,000 years ago. The English word sugar is rooted in the Sanskrit sharkara, meaning sugar or pebble. Like the other Polynesian-introduced grass, bamboo, kō was long, sleek and useful, but it was kō that played an unparalleled role in shaping modern Hawai`i. When 18th-century Europeans introduced non-Hawaiian varieties with the intention of growing cane for profit, it quite literally altered Hawaii’s landscape, language and culture. Kāwika Winter and Kamaui Aiona, directors of the National Tropical Botanical Garden’s Limahuli Garden and Kahanu Garden respectively, speak of more than 100 varieties of kō developed by Hawaiians. They explain Hawaiian kō tends to be softer and more colorful than commercially grown sugar cane. Evocative names like uahiapele (smoke of Pele) and kō kea (white cane) reflect the light green, golden, pink and reddish hues of kō. Others names like pua`ole (without flower) are based on growth characteristics. Winter says Limahuli Garden on Kaua`i’s north shore grows a variety called kō-`eli lima-o-halāi`i which means “the

summer 2008


sugar cane that is dug by hand at Halāli`i (on Ni`ihau)” because it grew only there, deep in sand dunes. Aiona tells of a traditional Hawaiian use for kō: as a pūpū. When drinking `awa (kava), small bananas, a slice of coconut or a bit of kō were eaten to offset the drink’s bitter taste. Following the establishment of the first successful commercial sugar cane plantation in Kōloa in 1835, the sugar cane industry ushered in successive waves of immigrants from Scotland, Norway and Germany to the Azores, Portugal and Puerto Rico. Along with massive influxes of first Chinese then Japanese and Okinawan, Korean and Filipino immigrants, they contributed to Hawai`i’s multi-ethnic “mixedplate” society. Without the introduction of sugar cane, we might not eat sushi, malassadas, kimchi or adobo in Hawai`i today. Currently the most complete collection of kō in Hawai`i is kept by the Hawai`i Agriculture Research Center (HARC), formerly known as the Hawaiian Sugar Planter’s Association. HARC grows and has distributed some 40 varieties of kō to gardens around the state. HARC also maintains sugar cane germplasm for research and is the authority on genetic composition of sugar cane in Hawai`i. Without HARC, many varieties might have survived only sporadically in backyard gardens with limited outside protection to prevent their loss. Dr. Susan Schenck, a plant pathologist with HARC, explains kō or “noble” cane is propagated only by stalk cuttings and maintained by replanting. According to Schenck, Hawai`i boasts the highest yield per acre per year of sugar cane anywhere in the world. Constant sunshine, yearround warm temperatures, fertile soil and irrigation helped ensure the success of Hawaii’s sugar industry until it peaked in production in the mid-1960s and with operations closing across the state from the ’70s. Chris Fayé, curator of the Kaua`i Museum, speaks fondly of sugar, noting sugar cane is one of the most highly evolved plants, adding oxygen to the environment while storing sugar within its stalk. It also adds nutrients to the soil and needs no rotation or heavy fertilization to be productive. “It is an amazing plant,” she says with reverence, rightly so considering her roots go back to Hans Peter Fayé, the first manager of the Kekaha Sugar Company in 1898. Fayé’s family grew up, quite literally, raising cane on Kaua`i and she remembers until recently admiring the view of “an island fringed with a manicured reef of cool green surrounding the purple and pink mountains rising above.” But the sugar cane industry was the victim of high production costs, advances in automation and competition from other crops like corn, all of which helped drive Hawai`i’s sugar cane industry into decline. Adding to this was a complex web of economic and political factors and the rise of commercial sweeteners like high-fructose corn syrup. According to the Louisiana State University AgCenter, only 25 percent of the natural sweetener market comes from cane sugar (a quarter of which is imported under World Trade Organization quotas) with 20 percent from beet sugar.


Summer 2008

edible hawaiian islands

Today Hawai`i’s last two commercial mills are in Pu`unene on Maui and Kaumakani on Kaua`i. The larger of these two, operated by the Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar Company (HC&S), produces over 60 percent of Hawai`i’s crop. With 36,000 acres dedicated to sugar cane in central Maui, HC&S has had success producing food-grade sugar, but most of its sugar, along with that produced by Gay and Robinson (G&R) Inc. on Kaua`i, is shipped several times a year to the C&H refinery in Crockett, California. HC&S continues to grow, package and sell its own natural cane sugars under the name “Maui Brand.” Described as the color of “Maui’s white sand beaches,” HC&S maintains Maui Brand natural cane sugar is the perfect accompaniment to Kaua`i Coffee (both companies are owned by the Alexander & Baldwin Corporation). The bulk of Maui-grown sugar ends up in markets in the western United States under the C&H name, as does cane grown by G&R. Started on Kaua`i’s west side in 1889, G&R grew to be one of the most productive, and ultimately Kaua`i’s last remaining producer which still maintains 7,500 acres of cane, about 20 percent of HC&S acreage. As G&R works to establish itself as a producer for cane-based ethanol, the company continues to use bagasse, the excess fiber left over when cane is milled, as a renewable source of energy, selling between 3,000 and 4,000 megawatt hours back to the grid each year. Unlike HC&S, G&R currently does not produce sugar that can be packaged and sold on island, but plans are afoot to change that. Howard Greene, G&R’s environmental manager, says the company will continue producing sugar and molasses for food indefinitely, and construct a sugar refinery at Kaumakani, possibly as soon as next year. Greene says G&R hopes eventually every juice, jam, jelly and baked goods producer on Kaua`i will sweeten with its locally grown sugar. One company already putting Kaua`i-grown sugar and molasses to good use is the Kōloa Rum Company, which aims to bring Hawai`i into the fold of rum producing islands like Cuba and Jamaica. Greg Schredder, managing director of the Kōloa Rum Company, has been working with distillery experts and is prepared to begin production of Kaua`i-made rum this summer with the expectation that a 2,000-square foot boutique tasting room will open beside Gaylord’s at Kilohana on Kaua`i by autumn. Schredder says that as a tropical island with a rich sugar cane heritage, it is only natural to make rum here. The Kōloa Rum Company has already purchased the Kukui Brand preserve company near Kōloa and, along with jams, jellies and other sweets, is producing a mai tai mix with local cane sugar which, mixed with Kaua`i distilled rum, may be the perfect drink to raise for a toast in sweet celebration. To see and enjoy the beauty of traditional Hawaiian kō, visit the Maui Nui Botanical Gardens (Kahuli, Maui), Kahanu Garden (near Hāna, Maui), Amy B. H. Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden (Captain Cook, Hawai‘i) or Waimea Valley (north shore of O`ahu).

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Summer 2008

edible hawaiian islands

Book Review Blue Eggs and Yellow Tomatoes Recipes from a Modern Kitchen Garden by Jeanne Kelley Reviewed by G. Natale

First of all, this book is incredibly beautiful to look at. Second of all, I wanted to make everything on every page. A longtime Bon Appetit contributor, Jeanne Kelley has made her dreams of urban sustainability a reality. Kelley’s backyard kitchen garden allows her to indulge her desire for fresh, organic and flavor-rich produce year ’round. There are 150 recipes designed to take advantage of local seasonal foods while incorporating exotic flavors into the everyday diet, including: • • •

Hummus with Jalapeño-Cilantro Pesto Stuffed Turkey Breast with Poblano Chiles and Feta Cheese Eggplant and Herb Salad The recipes are presented in a clean and easy-to-follow style, but they don’t sacrifice taste for ease of preparation. For those inspired, the book provides tools to help readers create an urban oasis of their own.

Available at your local bookstore. $35 Published by Running Press Books

summer 2008


farmers’ markets Kaua’i Farmers’ Markets MONDAY West Kaua`i Agricultural Association Poipu Road and Cane Haul Road, Poipu 8 a.m. Koloa Ball Park (Knudsen) (Sunshine Markets) Maluhia Road, Koloa Noon Kukui Grove Shopping Center Lihue 3 p.m. TUESDAY Kalaheo Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Papalina Road off Kaumualii, Kalaheo 3:30 p.m. Wailua Homesteads Park (Sunshine Markets) Malu Road, Wailua 3 p.m. Hawaiian Farmers of Hanalei Waipa, Hanalei 2 p.m. WEDNESDAY Kapa`a New Town Park (Sunshine Markets) Kahau Road, Kapa`a 3 p.m. THURSDAY Hanapepe Park (Sunshine Markets) Old Hanapepe Town 3 p.m. Kilauea Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Keneke off Lighthouse Road, Kilauea 4:30 p.m.


Summer 2008

FRIDAY Vidinha Stadium (Sunshine Markets) Hoolako Road, Lihue 3 p.m.

Waikoloa Village Farmers’ Market Waikoloa Community Church across from Waikoloa Elementary School 7:30 a.m.–1 p.m.

SATURDAY Kekaha Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Elepaio Road, Kekaha 9 a.m.

North Kohala Across from Hawi Post Office, under banyan tree 7 a.m.–noon

Hanalei Saturday Market Hanalei 9 a.m.–1:30 p.m.

Hawai`i Island Farmers’ Markets SATURDAY Keauhou Farmers’ Market Keauhou Shopping Center, Keauhou 8–11 a.m.

edible hawaiian islands

Waimea Hawaiian Homestead Farmers’ Market Mamalahoa Hwy., 2 miles east of Waimea town 7:30 a.m. Honokaa Farmers’ Market Honokaa town near Honokaa Trading Co. Hilo Farmers’ Market

Carrot photo by Steve Cohen

WEDNESDAYS AND SATURDAYS Corner of Mamo and Kamehameha Ave., downtown Hilo Saturdays, 8 a.m.–noon

Waipahu District Park (People’s Open Market) 94-230 Paiwa Street, Waipahu 8:15–9:15 a.m.

Kaneohe District Park (People’s Open Market) 45-660 Keaahala Road, Kaneohe 10:45–11:45 a.m.

WEDNESDAYS Naalehu Farmers’ Market Ace Hardware lawn 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

Wahiawa District Park (People’s Open Market) N. Cane & California Avenue, Wahiawa 10–11 a.m.

Manoa Marketplace Honolulu 7–11 a.m.

SUNDAY Pahoa Farmers’ Market Luquin’s/Akebono Theater parking lot 8 a.m.–3 p.m.

Mililani District Park (People’s Open Market) 94-1150 Lanikuhana Avenue, Mililani 11:45 a.m.–12:30 p.m.

Makuu Farmers’ Market Keaau-Pahoa bypass road 8 a.m.–2 p.m.

Fort Street near Wilcox Park Honolulu (in front of Macy’s) 8 a.m.–2 p.m.

Volcano Farmers’ Market Cooper Center, Wright Rd., Volcano 6:30–9 a.m.

Manoa Marketplace Honolulu 7–11 a.m.

O`ahu Farmers’ Markets

Waikiki Farmers’ Market Waikiki Community Center Parking Lot 7 a.m.–1 p.m.

MONDAYS Manoa Valley District Park (People’s Open Market) 2721 Kaaipu Avenue, Honolulu 6:45–7:45 a.m. Makiki District Park (People’s Open Market) 1527 Keeaumoku Street, Honolulu 8:30–9:30 a.m. Mother Waldron Park (People’s Open Market) 525 Coral Street, Honolulu 10:15–11 a.m. City Hall Parking Lot Deck (People’s Open Market) Alapai & Beretania Street, Honolulu 11:45 a.m.–12:30 p.m. Hawai`i Kai Towne Center Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu 7:30 a.m.–3 p.m. TUESDAYS Waiau District Park (People’s Open Market) 98-1650 Kaahumanu Street, Pearl City 6:30–7:30 a.m.

Leaf photo by Ollie Cohen

WEDNESDAYS Palolo Valley District Park (People’s Open Market) 2007 Palolo Avenue, Honolulu 6:30–7:30 a.m. . Old Stadium Park (People’s Open Market) 2237 South King Street, Honolulu 8:15–9:15 a.m. Queen Kapiolani Park (People’s Open Market) Monsarrat and Paki Street, Honolulu 10–11 a.m. Hawai`i Kai Towne Center Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu 7:30 a.m.–3 p.m. THURSDAYS Waimanalo Beach Park (People’s Open Market) 41-741 Kalanianaole Highway, Waimanalo 7:15–8:15 a.m. Kailua District Park (People’s Open Market) 21 South Kainalu Drive, Kailua 9–10 a.m.

The Kailua Thursday Night Farmers’ Market Kailua town 5–7:30 p.m. behind Longs on Kailua Road FRIDAYS Halawa District Park (People’s Open Market) 99-795 Iwaiwa Street 7–8 a.m. Ewa Beach Community Park (People’s Open Market) 91-955 North Road, Ewa Beach 9–10 a.m. Pokai Bay Beach Park (People’s Open Market) 85-037 Pokai Bay Road, Waianae 11–11:45 a.m. Fort Street near Wilcox Park Honolulu (In front of Macy’s) 8 a.m. –2 p.m. Waikiki Farmers’ Market Waikiki Community Center Parking Lot 7 a.m. –1 p.m. SATURDAYS Banyan Court Mall (People’s Open Market) 800 North King Street, Honolulu 6:15–7:30 a.m. Kaumualii Street (People’s Open Market) at Kalihi Street, Honolulu 8:15–9:30 a.m. Kalihi Valley District Park (People’s Open Market) 1911 Kam IV Road, Honolulu 10–10:45 a.m. Salt Lake Municipal Lot (People’s Open Market) 5337 Likini Street, Honolulu 11:15a.m. –Noon

summer 2008


Hawaii Kai Park-n-Ride (People’s Open Market) 300 Keahole Street, Honolulu 1–2 p.m.

Maui Farmers’ Markets

North Shore Country Market at Sunset Sunset Beach Elementary School, Haleiwa 8 a.m. –2 p.m. The Saturday Farmers’ Market at Kapiolani Community College Campus 4303 Diamond Head Road, Honolulu 7:30–11 a.m. Waialua Farmers’ Market Waialua Sugar Mill 8:30 a.m. –Noon Hawai`i Kai Towne Center Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu 7:30 a.m. –3 p.m. SUNDAYS Kapolei Community Park (People’s Open Market) 91-1049 Kamaaha Loop, Kapolei 7–8:30 a.m. Royal Kunia Park-n-Ride (People’s Open Market) Kupuna Lp/Kupohi Street, Waipahu 9:30–11 a.m. Waikele Community Park People’s Open Market) Waipahu 11:30 a.m. –12:30 p.m. The Mililani Sunday Farmers’ Market at Mililani High School 95-1200 Meheula Parkway, Mililani High School Parking Lot 8 a.m. –Noon

Country Market & Craft Fair Waimanalo Homestead Community Center 1330 Kalanianaole Hwy. 9 a.m.–4p.m.

Summer 2008

Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai Hawaiian Motors parking lot (across from Honokowai Park) 7–11 a.m. TUESDAY The Maui’s Fresh Produce Farmer’s Market Queen Kaahumanu Shopping Center (center stage area) Kaahumanu Avenue, Kahului 7 a.m. –4 p.m. Pepito Valdez 298-4289 Maui Mall Farmers’ Market & Craft Fair Maui Mall, Kahului 7 a.m.–4 p.m. Ms. Cynda Hearn 871-1307 Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road 8 a.m.–4 p.m. WEDNESDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road 8 a.m.–4 p.m. Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai Hawaiian Motors parking lot (across from Honokowai Park) 7 a.m. –11 a.m. Maui Mall Farmers’ Market & Craft Fair Maui Mall, Kahului 7 a.m.–4 p.m.

Manoa Marketplace Honolulu 7–11 a.m.


MONDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road 8 a.m.–4 p.m.

The Maui’s Fresh Produce Farmer’s Market Queen Kaahumanu Shopping Center (center stage area) Kaahumanu Avenue, Kahului 7 a.m.–4 p.m.

edible hawaiian islands

THURSDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road 8 a.m.–4 p.m. FRIDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road 8 a.m. –4.00 p.m. The Maui’s Fresh Produce Farmer’s Market Queen Kaahumanu Shopping Center (center stage area) Kaahumanu Avenue, Kahului 7 a.m.–4 p.m. Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai Hawaiian Motors parking lot (across from Honokowai Park) 7 a.m.–11 a.m. Maui Mall Farmers’ Market & Craft Fair Maui Mall, Kahului 7 a.m.–4 p.m. SATURDAY Maui Swap Meet Puunene Avenue next to the Kahului Post Office 6 a.m.–1 p.m.

ADVERTISER DIRECTORY Aloha Spice Company Available at Banana Patch Hanapepe: 808-335-5944 & Kilauea: 808-828-6522

Hanalei Dolphin Restaurant & Fish Market 5-5016 Kuhio Hwy. Hanalei, Kaua’i 808-826-6113

Aurora Fund PO Box 565 Kilauea, HI 96754 808-828-0893

Hawai`i Health Guide Hawai`i Healing Garden Cultural Healing Arts Festivals

Bar Acuda Restaurant Bar @ 5 p.m. Dinner @ 6 p.m. Reservations: 808-826-7081 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei, Kaua’i Closed Mondays Caffe Coco Casual Garden Dining Wailua, Kaua`i 808-822-7990 Cake Clothing *Accessories * Gifts Kong Lung Center Kilauea, Kaua’i 7 days a week 808-828-6412 Garden Ponds Mauka of Banana Joe’s Kilauea, Kaua`i Classes: “Secrets of Water Gardening” 808.826.6400 Ginger Boutique Best Bikini’s * Coolest Brands Kilauea, Kaua`i 808-652-9057 Hale Akua Garden Farm HOFA Certified Organic Farm 808-572-9300

Photo by G. Natale

Honu Group Inc. 1001 Bishop Street ASB Tower, Suite 2800 Honolulu, Hawai`i 96722 808-550-4449 Icing on the Cake 808-823-1210

Kaua`i Coffee 1-800-545-8605 Kaua`i Made 808-241-6390 Kaua`i Products Store Fine Locally Made Products Kukui Grove Shopping Center Kapa`a, Kaua`i Kilauea Fish Market 4270 Kilauea Rd. Kilauea, Kaua’i 808-828-6244 Mon.–Sat. 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Kilauea Town Market 2474 Keneke St. Kilauea, Kaua’i 808-828-1512 Daily 8:30 a.m.–8 p.m.

KKCR Kaua`i Community Radio 808-826-7774 PO Box 825 Hanalei, Kaua’i 96714 Listener Supported Koa Properties 808-651-1777 Pure Kaua`i 866-457-7873 Joan Namkoong “Food Lovers Guide to Honolulu” at your favorite book store Natural Health Clinic 3093 Akahi Street Lihue, Kaua`i 808-245-2277 North Country Farms An Organic Family Farm And Tropical B&B Cottages One Love 11 Clothing 917-345-6072 Papaya’s Natural Food & Café Organic Produce Vegetarian Café Kaua`i Village 4-831 Kuhio Hwy. Kapa’a, Kaua’i • 808-8230190 Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.-8 p.m. Hanalei 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy. Hanalei, Kaua’i 808-826-0089 7 days 9 a.m.–8 p.m.

Po’ipu Beach Estates Terry P. Kamen Call for a Tour 808-651-0071

Slow Food Hawai’i Island Shelby Floyd Kaua’i Patrick Quinn Icingonthecake.Kauai@gmail. com O’ahu Laurie Carleson Slow Food Nation Strings & Things Ching Young Village Hanalei, Kaua’i Yarn to Ukuleles 808-826-9633 The Wine Garden 4495 Puhi Road Lihu’e, Kaua’i Fine Wine, Vintage Port Hand-Rolled Kaua’i Cigars Tues.–Sat. 10 a.m.–6:30 p.m. 808-245-5766 `Umeke Market Natural Foods & Deli 4400 Kalanianaole Hwy. (Across From Kahala Mall) O`ahu 808-739-2990

summer 2008


Photo by Carole Topalian

Soursop what is it & how do you eat it?

What is it and how do you eat it Soursop or Guanabana in Spanish, (Annona muricata): is actually a broadleaf flowering evergreen tree, it is in the same family as the cherimoya and the paw paw. Not so pretty on the outside, the snow white flesh has had it’s flavor range from fruity cream candy and pineapple to coconut or banana. It is somewhat difficult to eat, as the pulp is studded with large black seeds. Therefore it is usually juiced and not eaten directly. It is often processed into ice cream or sherbets. The flesh can be pressed through a sieve, add a little sugar and a little cream or milk, let it get cold or freeze it for later. Yum!


Summer 2008

edible hawaiian islands

edible Hawaiian Islands Summer 2008  

Summer 2008

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