edible Hawaiian Islands Summer 2007

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HAWAIIAN

edible ISLANDS

tm

Celebrating the Harvest of the Aloha State, Season by Season

No. 1 Summer 2007

drinking ocean water • talk story island chefs • how do you eat that?

Me m b e r o f E d i b l e C o m m u n i t i e s

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summer 2007 CONTENTS

27 17 37

44

DEPARTMENTSNNN <;@9C<8CF?8 :FDFEATURES 4 letter of aloha

10

7 subscription form

17

20

35 inspiring others

44 sustainable extras

edible nation

The Culinary School in Your Backyard

26 what’s in season now

42 editor at large Moloka’i Birthday

talk story

Where have all the mangos gone?

8 notable edibles 24 cooking fresh

aina’ honua

Island Farms

6 masthead

27

Chef’s in hawaii

Alan Wong and Jeff Moffat 32

liquid assets

Water Water

48 farmers markets 49 advertiser directory

37

restaurant roundup

50 what is it? how do you eat it?

40

indigenous industry

Icing on the cake

COVER

by Lauren Brandt & Oliver Cohen

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LETTER of aloha Aloha, e’ komo mai, Welcome to the premier issue of Edible Hawaiian Islands. Mahalo nui loa to all those who were supportive and helped make this a reality. This issue’s cover is a group of pineapples. Here in Hawaii, as around the world, the pineapple is the symbol of welcome. So we say to all, e’ komo mai, come on in … welcome to Edible Hawaiian Islands.

The Hawaiian Islands … images of beauty come to mind. A paradise in the middle of the Pacific. Deep blue seas, lush mountains and rain forests … clean fresh air. Luscious exotic fruits, fish with names you can’t pronounce.

These islands in the past were all about local; we need to encourage it again. Celebrate the value in local, seasonal, authentic foods and the many culinary traditions of the Hawaiian Islands. We want to know those who grow, produce, cook and sell those foods. We want to know what’s available on our islands, in terms of great dining, food events and local community farmers’ markets. Let’s Talk Story about old traditions, as well as new ways of preparing some of the exotic produce we have. Let’s Talk Story about how to keep the Hawaiian Islands prospering in healthy agricultural ways.

Everywhere you look, there are signs that the Hawaiian Islands are in the midst of a renaissance in sustainable eating (eating locally produced food)—and we should all be a part of it. Would you rather eat what has traveled 3,000 miles to get to your table, or 50 miles and less?

Our mission is to celebrate family farmers, bakers, fisherman, ranchers, poultry farmers, local chefs and the rest of the food community for their dedication to producing the highest quality fresh and seasonal foods. We want to highlight those efforts towards a more sustainable and safe food system in the Hawaiian Islands.

Join us in this effort.

We would love to hear from you. Do you know someone who merits a mention or an article? Do you have an old family recipe? Help us tell the story of Hawaii’s food culture.

Illustration: Cindy Conklin

Gloria Cohen Publisher/Editor in Chief info@ediblehawaiianislands.com

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Organic Produce Vegetarian Café Hot & Cold Salad Bar Homemade Baked Good Vitamins & Supplements Kauai Village 4-831 Kuhio Hwy Kapa’a, HI 96746 823-0190 Mon-Sat 9am-8pm

Hanalei 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy Hanalei, HI 96714 826-0089 7 days 9am-8pm

www.papayasnaturalfoods.com

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Publisher/Editor In Chief Gloria Cohen Editor At Large Steven Cohen Distribution & Advertising Terry Sullivan Photography: Lauren Brandt, lauren@ediblehawaiianislands.com Oliver Cohen, ollie510@yahoo.com Steven Cohen, steven@ediblehawaiianislands.com Eddie Tapp, Photoshop expert, eddietapp.com Carole Toplian, Edible Communities Steve Knox, info@ediblehawaiianislands.com Artists: Cindy Conklin Editions, conklin@hawaiiantel.net Stephen Munshin, edibleeastend.com Mary Ogle, Edible Communities Lola Pilar, www.lolapilart.com Tracey Ryder, Edible Communities Writers: Melissa Chang melissa808@gmail.com Born and raised in Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;i, is the marketing manager at Aloha Tower Marketplace. Although she has done freelance work for various local publications, she is most famous for her annual holiday newsletter, in which chronicles her eating adventures for the year.

Dahlia Haas Chef- Writer Dahlia is the owner of the All Seasons Cooking School in Beverly Hills, California. With over twenty years in the food industry, recipe development, writing as well as catering and event planning, she comes with award winning recipes that are published in Bon Appetit Magazines and Bon Appetit Cookbooks.

Dahlia and her family share time between California and their home on the North Shore of Kauaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;i.

Sue Kiyabu Is a freelance writer living in Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;i.

After working at newspapers for 10 years, she earned a degree in sculpture from California College of the Arts â&#x20AC;&#x201D; eventually securing work as a mountmaker at the Asian Art Museum in San Francisco. Four years ago, she decided to move to Hawaii and try her hand at writing.

Sonia R. Martinez cubanwahine@hawaii.rr.com Cookbook author and freelance food writer for The Hamakua

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Times of Honokaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;a in Hawaii, and a Hawaii Island Journal restaurant reviewer in partnership with her son Anthony Mathis. Sonia is also a Food Correspondent for Gather.com Essentials:Food, where her columns are published twice monthly.

You can keep up with Soniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s adventures and ongoing love affair with Hawaii by joining her Gather.com network, or visiting her food & garden blog at Sonia Tastes Hawaii. She lives in a beautiful rural rainforest area on the Big Island of Hawaii.

Joan Namkoong Joan is a foodie and free-lance food writer. Born and raised in Hawaii, she has been writing about the Hawaii food scene for over a dozen years and has been instrumental in the growth of farmers markets on Oahu and Hawaii Island. She is the author of several books including â&#x20AC;&#x153;Family Traditions in Hawaii,â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Go Home, Cook Rice,â&#x20AC;? and most recently, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Food Loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Guide to Honolulu.â&#x20AC;?

Tim Ryan Tim is executive editor of Hawaii Film & Video Magazine. Born and raised in Hollywood, CA, he has lived in Honolulu with his wife Nancy for more than 20 years. Tim is a correspondent for US Weekly, and a contributor to Frommerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Budget Travel and Islands magazines.

Carole Topalian Photographer, widely recognized for her work as a professional photographer ands creative director. She is co-founder of Edible Communities, Inc., where she shares her considerable talents with members nationwide.

Contact Us

By Mail: Edible !LOHA PO Box 753, Kilauea, HI 96754 808.828.1559 &RONT$ESK %DIBLE!LOHA COM www.%DIBLE!LOHA COM Subscribe*Give A Gift*Advertise Call: 808.828.1559 Or use the above email or web address

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WE’RE WORKING HARD TO BRING YOU ALL THE LOCAL FOOD STORIES.

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Yes, I want to become a subscriber to Edible Hawaiian Islands. I have filled out the form below and am sending it, along with my check made payable to Edible Hawaiian Islands in the amount of $28 (for 4 issues) to: Edible Hawaiian Islands, PO Box 753, Kilauea, HI 96754.

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email (optional): For more information or to submit story ideas, call or email us at: 808-828-1559, or info@ediblehawaiianislands.com.

Edible Hawaiian Islands is published quarterly by Edible Hawaiian Islands LLC. Telephone: 808-828-1559. Distribution is throughout the state of Hawaii and nationally by subscription. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $28 annually. Published in April, July, October and December. Call the number above to inquire about advertising rates, deadlines or subscription information, or email us at: info@ediblehawaiianislands.com. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2007 All Rights Reserved.

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notABLE EDIBLES KAUA’I Kilauea Town Market, now owned by Pam Saindon in The Kung Lung Center, 2474 Keneke St. If you want to get something to eat and take it on the road or to the beach, this is the

If you are lucky enough to live on the North Shore of Kaua’i, you know where to go for poke: Kilauea Fish Market, owned by Coriena Macneil and Steve Knox located at 4270 Kilauea Rd., Kilauea, Kaua’i; 808-828-6244. Open Mon.–Sat. 11 a.m.– 8 p.m.

Soon to be serving casual Twilight Dinner; sit outside; bring your own wine or beer and enjoy.

POKE (Pronounced Po kee) What is it? It’s basically a raw fish salad in bite-size pieces, Hawaiian salt, chopped seaweed and then the variations begin. It’s considered the casual version of elegant, perfectly cut sashimi. Most people think of poke as a traditional Hawaiian way of eating raw fish—the word poke in Hawaiian means cut piece or small piece. Poke, however, is a meld of the Hawaiian tradition of raw fish with the Asian influence contributing soy sauce. After the 1970s, and still today, poke is the thing to have after work with a cold beer, as well as a popular pupu at parties.

AHI-ONO-AVOCADO POKE • 1 T. ‘alaea salt (Hawaiian red salt) • 1 T. toasted sesame seed oil • 1⁄4 cup chopped green onion • 3⁄4 pound fresh ahi (yellow fin tuna) • 3⁄4 pound fresh ono (wahoo) • 3⁄4 cup rinsed and chopped ogo seaweed • 1⁄2 large avocado, cubed • 1 t. sesame seeds SESAME-AHI POKE WITH MAUI ONIONS • 1 T. “alaea salt (red Hawaiian salt) • 1 T. toasted sesame seed oil • 1⁄4 cup chopped green onion • 1⁄4 cup thinly sliced sweet Maui onion • 11⁄2 pound fresh ahi (yellow fin tuna) • 1⁄4 cup rinsed and chopped ogo seaweed • 1 t. sesame seeds To prepare poke, dice fish into ¾-inch cubes and place in large mixing bowl.

Sprinkle Hawaiian salt over top of fish and add remaining ingredients to bowl.

Toss until all fish is evenly coated. Serve with soy sauce mixed with Coleman’s hot mustard or wasabi to taste.

Photograph: Steve Knox

Here are two of the favorite recipes:

place. You can also pick up some local organic produce, and the best selection of Fine Wine on the North Shore. 808-828-1512 Be sure to say hi to Pam and Rosie when your there.

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O’AHU & HAWAI’I ISLAND One weekend we actually went to two Slow Food events, one in O’ahu, and the other on The Big Island. What is Slow Food? It is a movement that was started in Italy, by Carlo Petrini, as a resistance to the globalization of fast foods. This movement is about preserving an ecoregion's cuisine and the associated food plants and seeds, domestic animals, and farming methods of that region. For more information, you can go to www.slowfood.com to find a convivium in your area. There are three in the Hawaiian Islands, O’ahu, Hawai’i Island and a new one in Kaua’i.

Join a Slow Food Convivium, below is an example of the kinds of events that can happen.

Indigo Restaurant, Honolulu, www.indigo-hawaii.com this was the first event, 9:45am, and what a treat. We were greeted by Chef Glenn Chu, who spoke of the importance of eating local and eating fresh. He has a passion for food that he says he learned from his grandmother. We were served; Goat Cheese Won Tons with Four Fruit Sauces: filled with goat cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and sweet pepper, Shrimp Lumpia with Chipotle Aioli; crisp lumpia paper wrapped shrimp with shrimp mouse, and Sugar Cane Juice… yummie. Chef Chu then took us on a whirlwind tour of the Chinatown markets, as we passed the fish markets, he explains “if you smell fish, move on”. After this we headed back to Indigo, and were treated to lunch: Roasted Duck & Apricot Gin Doi; Garden Vegetables Spring Rolls with Tangerine Sauce. Be sure to also check

out Chef Chu’s other restaurant, another of our favorites, Du Vin 808-5451115 www.brasserieduvin.com Sunday, we’ve traveled to the Big Island.

Here we are meeting up with their Slow Food Convivium. We are going to visit two different farms. The first was Kuaiwi Farm in Kealakekua. Here Una Greenway and her husband Leon Rosner have created gardens of diversified crops which supply their family as well as produce such organics as coffee and macadamia nuts that are for sale at farmers markets as well as their website:www.kuaiwfarm.com Next, we are off to Ginger Hill Farm, in south Kona, owned by the well-known artist and peace activist Mayumi Oda. At Ginger Hill farm there is a wide variety of permaculture crops as well, Mayumi has developed the farm as a workshop and retreat destination over looking the farm all the way to the ocean. All workshops are taught by Mayumi Oda, she is also author of “I Opened The Gate Laughing”. Workshops available this summer include, Deep Sea Water Detox, Creativity Retreat: “Hawaiian Breath” and Return to the Wild: A Ginger Hill Camping Adventure. For more information and dates, contact Elisa 808-323-3964 or email elisa@representpr.com www.mayumioda.net

MAUI When visiting Maui, a must thing to do especially if you are a foody who happens to love gardens. Ali’i Lavender Farm. Upcountry in Kula, under the ledge of the Haleakala Crater, the views are incredible. Make a reservation for either the Lavender Garden Tea and Tour (10am-12:30pm) or the Lavender Garden Culinary Tour (10am-1:30pm) Availability and reservations: 808-878-3004 or www.aliikulalavender.com We had such a great time, be sure to tell them you heard about them from us.

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ain’a honua

MODEL FARMER IN HAMAKUA by joan namkoong For someone who studied accounting, farmer Richard Ha rarely speaks of dollars and cents and the bottom line. Happy employees, supporting the community, sustainability and quality food are his conversational topics.

Ha is the owner of Mauna Kea Bananas, the corporate umbrella for an almost 600-acre farm at Pepeekeo on the Hamakua Coast of Hawaii Island. Most of this land is planted in bananas and 15 acres are devoted to hydroponic greenhouses where vegetables are grown, all marketed under the Hamakua Springs Country Farm label. It’s a business Ha and his wife, June, have built over the past three decades with a refreshing attitude towards farming and the environment.

It all began in the mid 1970s when Ha, after serving in the U.S. Army and completing a degree in accounting at the University of Hawaii, got to work on his dad’s chicken farm. With 25 acres of land in Waiakea Uka, $300 worth of credit on his credit card and a Toyota Land Cruiser that stood in for a bulldozer, he began trading chicken manure for keiki banana plants.

He planted the bananas on a 25-acre parcel and from this location, Ha went to Koae and then to Keaau, expanding his banana business with each move. By the time he had established his Keaau banana brand name, he was the largest banana producer in the state and the nation.

Not only was he making a dent on the imported supply of bananas to Hawaii, he was doing it in a sustainable way. He earned an

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Eco-OK award from the Rain Forest Alliance, following a set of protocols that were good for the environment. For example, plastic bags put over bananas stalks after fruit set are not discarded in the field nor are they impregnated with insecticides. Banana trees are planted with wider spaces between them to allow grass to grow, absorbing excess water that might leach chemicals into water systems. Ha was also one of six finalists in 2002 for the Patrick Madden Award for Sustainable Agriculture, a USDA recognition for farms that are profitable, environmentally sound and good for the community.

These protocols and standards are still followed today at Ha’s Pepeekeo location, acquired in the mid 1990s when Hamakua Sugar shut down. This year, more than 2,600 tons of Williams and Apple bananas will be produced for local consumption.

As land values increased, Ha was able to sell off parts of his land holdings to finance the infrastructure of his present-day operation.

With 30 years of experience growing bananas, Ha wanted to diversify his plantings so he would not be dependent on a single crop that could possibly have a problem. “From our banana plantings, we knew the limitations of the area,” says Ha. “The soil is very deep, good for bananas. There’s a lot of rain on the Hamakua Coast— 130 inches a year—so it’s a muddy area.”

“We’re fortunate that we have all the water we can use,” says Ha. “There are four streams and three springs on our land. With enough water, sunshine and an average temperature of 74 degrees, we looked

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for things we could grow within that environment.”

Knowing that he needed to shelter plants from the rain, Ha experimented with a variety of vegetable crops and traveled to various parts of the world to learn about hydroponic systems. In hydroponic systems, plants grow in nutrient-rich water rather than in soil, avoiding the pests and diseases associated with soil and reducing the need for insecticides and herbicides. He took courses in greenhouse growing at the University of Arizona. In 1998, he set up greenhouses with hydroponic systems, focusing on tomatoes.

Close to 2 million pounds of Hamakua Springs Country Farm tomatoes will be produced this year of varying sizes, colors and shapes: sweets, cocktails, heirlooms, on the vine and beefsteaks.

They’re not only pretty to look at but, more importantly, flavorful, too. Ha’s farm is also producing an assortment of lettuces, cucumbers, green onions and watercress, all part of a salad bowl that Ha wants to put on island tables. “We want to play a part in making our state self-sufficient,” he says.

It’s been a hands-on business from day one for the Has. “I’ve done it all,” says Ha. “I’ve seeded, transplanted, fertilized, harvested; I know what it takes.” As with any entrepreneurial venture that grows, the Has learned to build an organization and a business. “When we started in Koae, everyone fit in my station wagon so communication was good,” remembered Ha. “But as we grew and added employees, we had to put systems in place.”

But it’s not just about growth and increasing the quantity of food produced that keeps Ha engaged in farming. “We like to reinvent the wheel and we thrive on chaos,” says Ha. He’s experimenting with other crops like melons and on new ways to grow food that can supply more nutritional value to people.

The Has also recognize the value of their employees, always on the lookout for what they can do to help their workers. Food safety certification was one project, ensuring that certain protocols are followed on a farm. “It benefits our employees,” says Ha, “because it means they work in a better environment. But it also made us better managers because we had to document our procedures.”

There’s profit sharing for employees, health benefits, and employees have a voice on safety and environmental issues. “In the future, labor will be harder to come by. Work has to be easier for workers,” says Ha. When it comes to the community, the Has look down the road from their employees’ perspective and are advocates for improving lifestyles and livelihoods. “We want their children to do better, too,” says Ha. “We support a diversity of opportunities in our community; we advocate for ‘ohana housing.”

Within the community, the Has donate products to events of all kinds. When there’s a spike in tomato production, they might deliver their ex-

cess supply to institutions where teachers, caregivers and public safety workers can take home a little bonus.

Clipboards line the walls of the cramped 32-foot trailer field office, each one a log of planting schedules, temperature and light readings and other quantifiable information that tracks what’s happening in each section of the farm and each greenhouse. Cool water from nearby springs drips onto the roof of the packing facility, naturally cooling the building without the use of electric fans. While they are not organic farmers, the Has are conscious of their environment and the impact they have on it. “We use low-impact chemicals. With hydroponics we measure and quantify everything we do.

With organics, there’s composting and raising temperatures and there’s no guarantee on food safety.”

Mellow by nature, humble in spirit yet feisty as his tastiest tomatoes, Ha continues to experiment and learn along the way, maintaining that entrepreneurial spirit that will carry him into the future. “If you’re not moving forward, you’re moving backwards,” says Ha.

Look for Hamakua Springs Country Farm bananas, tomatoes, lettuces, green onions, watercress and cucumbers at supermarkets statewide, and Mauna Kea Brand bananas and tomatoes at Costco (yes, even there you should know who your local grower is). www.hamakuasprings.com.

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WHAT IS A CSA? by john parziale

“The way I see it, this is part of the support in Community Supported Agriculture,” my neighbor mused as we loaded up some used building supplies he was donating to the farm.

It seems the concept of CSA is constantly being redefined. For lots of folks, I’m sure, it’s a great way to get heaps of veggies at a discount and, for the farmer, a guaranteed market without leaving the farm.

But in this quiet corner of direct marketing, there’s something else going on—something deeper. Food is an intimate thing. It is something that we bring inside ourselves. At the least it is the fuel that keeps us going. For many it is sacred, a force that weaves the fabric of family and community together.

In a broader sense, the CSA model fosters connections and relationships in an increasingly fragmented society.

The fisherman up the road, the mechanic who keeps the farm vehicles up and running, the massage therapist who eases our tired backs are all CSA members—all doing what they do, all eating from the farm, often without any exchange of the legal tender. Sometimes there’s not a lot of money in the cashbox but life’s rolling along and damn, we’re eating good!

We live in a day of USDA-certified “organic” frosted flakes, Gummy Worms and high-fructose corn syrup. The health-conscious, environmentally concerned consumer stands baffled in the fluorescent supermarket aisle. “How

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can I feel good about eating this?!”

Welcome to the local food revolution. As consumer confidence in the “organic” label makes its inevitable decline, people who care about what they eat will seek to know their farmers, foragers and fisherman. A CSA facilitates this connection. For many of us, the word organic is more than just a label, a trademark or a list of do’s and don’ts. It is a philosophy, a lifestyle, a way of understanding. And as such, try as you might, it cannot be legislated, certified or regulated. It comes down to integrity and it should: It’s our food we’re talking about here, after all.

Buying and eating food is an agricultural activity. What type of farming are you practicing? Modern industrial agriculture is arguably the most destructive human activity on the planet. It uses the most dangerous chemicals, exploits and wastes the most fresh water and is certainly the largest threat to biodiversity worldwide. We can do better.

Supporting a CSA or your local farmers’ market ensures that authentic food is produced in your area. This is a community’s best investment in food security. Eating local is a powerful act of resistance that supports your health, the health of our farms and the health of the planet.

John Parziale directs Kauai Authentic Farms in Moloa’a, which is home to a CSA, homestead plant nursery and the Center for Regenerative Agriculture, a learning landscape of tropical subsistence farming.

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NORTH COUNTRY FARMS AND TROPICAL B&B North Country Farms is an organic family farm with two tropical bed-and-breakfast cottages, located just east of the historical town of Kilauea on the lush north shore of Kauai. In a quarter-acre market garden and an extensive orchard a delightful variety of vegetables and fruits are grown and sold locally.

This CSA has the added advantage in that it has cottages where visitors can stay in complete privacy and enjoy living on this beautiful farm, during their visit to Kauai.

The owner, Lee Roversi, says, “We feel proud to be the stewards of this 4-acre piece of paradise. Living and working this land provides our family with a quality of lifestyle that

is irreplaceable. Our produce is sold directly to 50–60 families weekly. It is a really rewarding endeavor to be able to provide fresh, organic food for the tables of so many people in the community. We do believe in activism by lifestyle.

The choices we have made here have been conscious ones.

They are choices which we believe add to the quality of life here on Kauai for those of us who call this precious piece of the planet our home, and which add to the quality of experience for the visitors who travel to this unequaled gem of

an island.”

northcountryfarms.com

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GREEN LIGHT ORGANIZATION by g. cohen

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I was surprised not to be able to find more CSAs in Hawaii. If you know about one I missed, please write and let me know who you are. What I did find however, was very interesting. It seems each CSA has its own particular specialty.

CSA is simply a system in which community members support a local farm by paying in advance for fresh veggies and/or fruits. This reduces the financial risks for the farmer, because costs are covered in advance. Throughout the growing season, CSA members receive a portion of the farm’s harvest each week, picked that day.

Eat local, eat fresh!

To become a member of this Community Supported Agriculture program, contact mamajgrows@yahoo.com.

Kauapea Farms also hosts several other sustainable projects to include Kaua’i Fungi—gourmet and medicinal mushrooms—as well as private yoga and Rolfing workshops and education. For information please contact kauapeafarms@yahoo.com.

Photograph: Carole Topalian

KAUAPEA FARMS, KILAUEA, KAUAI Jillian and Gary Seals, along with Jimmy Peritti, make up the core team of Green Light Organization (GLO). Currently, this team of farmers, soil experts and Permaculture designers are feeding as many as 25 families weekly through their Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program. Using beyond-organic methods incorporating Permaculture, biointensive and remediation practices, these folks are growing more fresh veggies than you can imagine on 12 acres.

What began as a family garden has now grown into the Farm Incubator Program (FIP), which consists of several 4,000-square-foot plots of land opened up for interns interested in learning diversified farming practices in Hawaii. FIP is a two- to three-month, 120hour program promoting a hands-on experience in the field. More recently GLO has partnered up with Malama Kaua’i to not only provide things such as land, water, seeds and amendments, but to also establish a curriculum as well as research development though documentation.

This program’s purpose is to provide the island community with sustainable solutions thorough knowledge and support, and to provide amazingly vital, beyond-organic produce.

For more information about GLO’s —Farm Incubator Program, contact gary@malamakauai.org.

COMMUNITY SUPPORTED AGRICULTURE (CSA)

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North Country Farms

Kauai’s Best Selection of Fine Wine Wine Accessories Custom Gift Baskets Vintage Port & Hand Rolled Kauai Cigars

An Organic Family Farm and Tropical B&B Cottages

808-245-5766

Open Tuesday - Saturday 10 am - 6:30 pm

www.northcountryfarms.com

Across from the College at Puhi Road and Hwy. 50 4495 Puhi Road, Lihu’e Hawaii 96766

Kilauea Town

Market & Deli

Grocery Deli FineWine Beer Gourmet Open Daily 8:30 - 8

2474 Keneke Street, Kilauea, Kauai

In the Kung Lung Center

808-828-1512

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talk story WHERE HAVE ALL THE MANGOS GONE?

Photograph: Steve Knox

By melissa chang

Where have all the mangos gone?” laments Sylvia Thompson, pining for fresh local fruit. She’s not alone. My friend Stacy Hernandez actually bought some mangos from a grocery store recently, which was unheard of when we were growing up. My nieces will ride their bikes through Kaimuki and Kahala, jonesing for fallen mangos that they can legally pick off the sidewalk.

Part of the challenge is that our parents and their friends have decided that mango trees cause too much of a mess, and have cleared their yards of these precious trees. Others find that backyard mango trees can sometimes lead to thievery and trespassing—from the common burglar to the respected tutu that has lost their mango supplier.

“Ideal conditions for mango include dry weather during the flowering period, which is between December and April,” says Jari Sugano, extension agent at the University of Hawai’i at Manoa’s College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources (CTAHR).

“Fruits then mature three to five months after flowering. The past few years have been wet during the period in which mangos flower, so production was low. For instance, in March 2006, Hawai’i saw 40 days and nights of rain, which had a huge negative effect on various crops.”

This meant that people like Stacy and me, in desperation for a fresh taste of the treasured fruit, had to turn to buying them at

grocery stores for the past couple of years. Although there are 30 species of mangos, Hawai’i residents prefer the taste of the Haden and Pirie varieties, which commonly grow here. When turning to grocery stores, we can often only choose from mangos grown in Mexico, the Philippines or Peru.

One little-known fact is that there’s more to mangos in Hawai’i than Haden and Pirie. According to a fact sheet by the CTAHR, other recommended varieties for Hawai’i include Ah Ping, Fairchild, Gouveia, Harders, Keitt, Momi K, Pope and Rapoza, all

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of which apparently bear superior fruit. Who knew? I guess I need to seek these varieties out to be sure.

Called the “king of fruit” due to its versatility and widespread growth around the world, mangos are more than just delicious.

The flesh of a ripe mango contains significant amounts of vitamins A, B and C, and have up to 1 percent protein and about 15 percent sugar. In some places, people enjoy eating the skin, which is rich in calcium and vitamin B6.

During a good year, people with mango trees scramble to keep up with the quantity of fruit ripening at the same time. The fruits need to be picked just before they are fully ripe, or they soften and fall, causing further mess in the yard. People are seen picking mangos with the most ingenious homemade contraptions—always a long pole with a basket or bag at the end. Sometimes they are fitted with saws or knives to ensure the mango does not put up a fight.

If there’s a lot to harvest, mango tree owners will end up with

more mangos than they can freeze or consume, which means they have to share their bounty! They’ll leave bags for the mailman, bring them to work, or—best of all—give them to special family and friends.

Things are looking up for Stacy and me this year. Our friend Melissa (yes, another one—last name withheld to protect our mango supply) has a tree, the same tree she’s had to rake up after for the last 35 years. After much guilt and some begging, Melissa is proving her friendship by pledging mangos to us this summer.

“I suspect that this year’s mango crop may be slightly better than last year, considering the weather this December through April in comparison to the year before,” says Sugano. “However, fruit set is still really low in backyard-produced mangoes as little controls for diseases are in place.”

Melissa agrees and says that her tree looks promising so far. I’m looking forward to a very good summer.

MANGO FACTS

+ The mango should be green, not ripe, as ripe mango will get soggy. Also, sour mango tastes better with this style of cooking. + Taste the green mango before you pickle and change amount of vinegar and sugar depending upon the taste of mango. + Chili flakes can be added with this recipe if you like spicy. + Sometimes yellow or red food coloring can be added for presentation.

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CHAI’S MANGO SALSA

Photograph: Carole Topalian

Fresh mangos.

Mango chutney. Li Hing Mango.

Mango bread. Mango Lassis.

Mango pie. If Forrest Gump’s friend Bubba had a mango tree at home, he would have been as obsessed with the fruit as he was with shrimp, and thought of as many ways to serve it.

Certainly, there are many ways to eat this much-sought-after fruit, and everyone has their own “best recipe.” Celebrity chef Chai Chaowasaree of Chai’s Island Bistro and Singha Thai Cuisine shares two of his many mango recipes, which are popular with Hawai’i residents and visitors alike.

2 T. diced ripe mango (about ¼ inch) 2 T. diced tomato (about ¼ inch) ½ T. chopped onion ½ T. chopped Chinese parsley ¼ T. lemon juice ¼ T. Balsamic vinegar ¼ T. sugar A pinch of salt and Tabasco to taste To prepare, simply mix all the above ingredients together. Serve with chips, fish, tacos, etc.

CHAI’S LI HING MUI PICKLED MANGO 10 pieces large green mango 3 cups sugar 3 cups vinegar 3 cups water 1 T. salt 1 T. Li Hing Mui Powder Preparation: Peel and cut mango from top to bottom into large pieces, around 4 to 8 pieces (depending on how large the mango). Make sure to remove the seed. Put in a jar and set aside.

In a pot combine sugar, vinegar, water and salt. Bring to a boil and let it simmer for 5 minutes to burn alcohol from vinegar. It will make your pickled mango taste smooth, not sharp acidity. Let it cool down until warm. Add Li Hing Mui powder, stir and pour over the mango. Let it sit in the refrigerator for a few days.

Remove mango from the liquid. More Li Hing Mui powder, sugar or salt may be added to taste.

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edible nation The Culinary School in Your Backyard by jeff cox

To learn what a truly fresh, local, seasonal, organic fruit or vegetable really tastes like, you pretty much have to grow it yourself. It doesn’t get any fresher or more local than that.

Even folks without a yard can grow some produce as long as they have a sunny spot. Tomatoes grow just fine in a five-gallon container filled with a bag of organic compost, as long as you put drainage holes in the bottom. Put the container next to a drainpipe and tie the tomato stems up to it. When you get the first ripe tomatoes, go to the plant and pull off a leaf. Crush it between your fingers and smell the strong, heady, herbaceous aroma. Find a dead ripe tomato and take a bite. You’ll find the same herbaceous fragrance of the leaves in the flavor of the fruit.

This fragrance is evanescent. As soon as you pick it, enzymes

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begin to work subtle changes in the tomato’s taste. The fruit quickly gives up some of its most delicate flavor harmonics.

A tomato right off the vine has its full range of tastes and smells available for you, and I’ve often heard from people that it was their first bite of a sun-ripened, sun-warmed tomato right off the vine that gave them the gardening bug.

It wasn’t that long ago that if you wanted fresh organic produce, locally grown and in season, you had to grow it yourself, because our world of organic farms, farmers’ markets, and supermarkets still lay in the future. When I started working at Organic Gardening magazine in 1970, I used to drive the editor nuts because I’d leave the office every day at about 3 in the afternoon and go home to garden. How could I write intelligently about gardening if I didn’t know how to garden? He didn’t like it, but I guess he saw my point

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because he didn’t fire me.

Growing the first corn crop at my new “garden” was instructive.

The soil was hard-packed clay. Using a pick, I opened up four inch deep scars in the earth and dropped corn kernels into them at 10inch intervals as the seed packet instructed, then covered them back up with the chunks of excavated clay. Pennsylvania summer rain is usually plentiful, so the seeds sprouted—along with a tsunami of weeds. The corn plants were spindly little things that grew only about eight inches tall, vainly trying to poke their heads up above the greenbrier, quackgrass, and beggar ticks.

Finally these runty little plants tasseled and tiny ears formed.

With the husks pulled away, the entire crop consisted of about a dozen ears, each the size of my little finger. Of course, I thought, the seeds must have been a variety that produces those miniature ears Chinese cooks use in their stir-fries. But no, the seed packet said the variety was a full-sized one. I’d just had my first lesson in the need for organic soil improvement.

Three years later, after applying what I’d learned at the magazine about the soil’s need for lots and lots of decaying organic matter like leaves, corn husks, spoiled alfalfa hay, grass clippings (that folks in town were throwing away), home-made compost, and farm animal manure, that hardpan clay soil was so dark, rich, and crumbly that I could shove my arm into it up to the elbow. And then what vegetables it grew!

My garden became my culinary school as I discovered true freshness and flavor in just-picked produce. Here’s some of what I learned: It’s too bad that many people only know garden peas from the kinds available at the markets. Many of the pods are over-mature, the peas large and crammed together, the texture mealy, and the flavor bean-y and starchy. But when you grow them yourself, you can choose pods at their peak; that is, when the peas plump the pod but are just shy of touching each other. Pull them from the vine and shell the peas into your hand. The first impression on the palate is a deep sweetness, a turgid texture, a juiciness, and a flavor that’s bright rather than earthy. Even just a few hours after being picked, peas lose the refreshing vividness of live food and their sweetness fades.

If you have small children, you’ll give them lifelong memories if you put up a pea fence and grow them a crop of garden peas. I remember my four-year-old son and two-year-old daughter wandering up to the pea patch when they got hungry on warm June days, busily working the vines, their little fingers quickly and expertly opening pods, no childish chatter, just concentrating on their work as they devoured lunch on the hoof. That’s how delicious fresh peas can be.

People think of “new potatoes” as those waxy-fleshed red potatoes in the markets. But new potatoes are just that—young spuds that haven’t yet developed their tough skins or even sized up. New potatoes are for people who just can’t wait for their potatoes to achieve maturity, so they raid the tuber-bearing roots under the green plants and come up with handfuls of small potatoes with delicate, tissuelike skin. These beauties haven’t had time to become starchy or mealy. Their flesh is full of juice and when cooked, they are incomparably smooth and velvety, and surprisingly full of flavor. To see

what heights the lowly potato can achieve, put a tablespoon of butter and one of olive oil in a skillet over medium to medium-low heat, add washed and quartered new potatoes right out of the ground, and cook slowly, covering the pan about two-thirds of the time, turning occasionally to get a golden brown color. Late in the cooking process, add a small handful of diced onion and garlic, and season the potatoes with fleur de sel and fresh ground black pepper.

The onion will turn golden and caramelize a bit, ratcheting up its sweet flavor. The garlic will become golden and enticingly chewy.

The dish will be a revelation.

Do this and you will be eating the living plant, ingesting all its delicate goodness, communing with nature in the best way possible—by taking her living, functioning plants right into your system.

No room for a potato patch? Fill a five-gallon container that has good drainage holes in the bottom (very few veggies like to be in sopping wet soil) and fill it with compost or potting soil that’s not too rich in nitrogen (1 percent is good). Get some of those fingerling potatoes at the store. They have the most excellent flavor. Bury five of them whole, not cut into pieces, spaced evenly, about six inches under the compost’s surface. Keep the soil moist but not wet and keep your container in full sun. The plants will quickly send up green tops. After the tops have flowered—in about three months— but before they start to die back, you’ll find that small new potatoes have formed under the soil. These young spuds are the yummiest.

And by the way, if you have the room to grow a stand of corn, don’t plant the new sugary-enhanced and super-sweet varieties that keep their sweetness for days after being picked. I find their sweetness cloying. Choose some old standard varieties like Silver Queen, Honey and Cream, and Golden Bantam. Get the water boiling before you head out to the corn patch. Harvest the ears and husk them immediately—and then plop them right into the boiling water.

You’ll discover why these old varieties have stood the test of time!

Their sweetness is natural, not over-the-top or cloying. Their flavor incomparable.

When you grow your own carrots, the carrot tops—the green feathery fronds—have the most delightful herbal aroma when a few leaves are crushed between your fingers. If you pull a root and quickly wash it off, then bite into it, you’ll find some of that volatile, heady aroma you found in the leaves in the roots themselves. But it doesn’t last long. The roots quickly give up that ethereal fresh flavor and become…well, carrots, like those you find at the store. Store carrots are good and sweet and flavorful, but there’s something missing. It’s that ineffable carrot perfume that you only get when you pull a root and wash and eat it within a few minutes.

When gardeners plant lettuces, they often pull off just the outer leaves of the lettuce heads for their salads. The root stays in the ground and the leaves that are left continue to grow, themselves becoming outer leaves that can be harvested. And so a lettuce plant can NNN <;@9C<8CF?8 :FD Summer 2007

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produce leaves throughout the growing season or at least until the plant starts to grow a flower stalk, whereupon the lettuce sap turns milky white and bitter. But I’ve learned to sow enough lettuce seed so that I can pull the whole, small heads of lettuce, roots and all, from the garden, bring them into the house, wash any soil from the plant, cut off the root, and use the whole lettuce plant as the basis for my salad. The plant won’t even know that the root is gone. It will still be alive and pumping water through its leaves, determined to keep growing. Do this and you will be eating the living plant, ingesting all its delicate goodness, communing with nature in the best way possible—by taking her living, functioning plants right into your system.

You don’t even need a garden to grow lettuce. Just find a container at least a foot deep with drainage holes in the bottom and fill it with compost. Plant Bibb or Butterhead lettuce six inches apart in all di-

At the base of each pole, mix the soil with some good compost and plant three seeds of Scarlet Runner beans. They will grow up the poles, twining around each other as they grow. Eventually, they’ll produce pretty red flowers. These are edible and make a great addition to salads. But don’t pick them all off, for after the flowers, green beans will appear. Pick them while they’re young and tender. If you have kids, they’ll find the bean tipi a fun place to hide. For a special treat for them, plant sugar snap peas instead of beans, and they can sit in the tipi and eat the fresh peas, pods and all, that will hang down above their heads.

As for fruits, think strawberries. As anyone knows who lives where the wild strawberries of the eastern U.S. grow, these tiny beauties have all the flavor of regular commercial strawberries (and then some) packed into a fruit about the size of your little fingernail. But they are finicky about where they will thrive and not many nurseries

rections and harvest when the plants have made small heads. Place the container in a place where it gets morning sun and afternoon shade. Keep the compost moist but not sopping wet.

If you do have a little garden space, here’s an idea that’s fun and practical. At the hardware store or lumber yard, buy five eight-footlong poles. They don’t have to be big—even 1 x 1-inch poles will do.

Lash them together about one foot from the top and set them in the sunny garden evenly spaced in a circle at about a 60 degree angle, in the shape of a tipi. Push the ends of the poles into the soil at least six inches to prevent the tipi from toppling over in a strong wind.

sell them. Regular sized commercial strawberries take a lot of work, they throw out runners that have to be managed, and they are prone to certain viruses and fungal diseases. But then there’s the variety called Ruegen Improved. These hardy European alpine strawberries make compact little plants that throw no runners, and they’re disease resistant. Best of all, they have much of the intense, sweet flavor of wild American strawberries. They’re perfect for growing in pots, and especially to edge flower or vegetable or herb gardens, or to plant alone or to interplant with annuals in sunny window boxes. One reason why this variety is improved over the plain Ruegen variety is

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that it produces fruit from June to October, and bears especially heavily in the early fall. Where to find Ruegen Improved?

I just Googled “Ruegen Improved Strawberry” and got pages of listings of suppliers. Take your pick.

If you have small children, they will absolutely delight in finding and eating these home-grown strawberries. And so will you. And they’re never better than when just plucked from the plant and popped into the mouth.

A fruit whose sweet and musky flavor can only be experienced when fresh from the bush is the black currant—no relation to the tiny raisins mislabeled as currants at the supermarket. It grows particularly well in the Mid-Atlantic and northern tier of states since it’s native to northern Europe and Russia. It’s a shrubby bush about four feet tall and as wide around. It flowers early and its black berries, each about a quarter of an inch in diameter, ripen in June.

Some say their flavor is an acquired taste. I find them indescribably delicious when sun-warmed and fresh from the bush. Then they have an attractive, earthy, musky flavor that quickly diminishes after picking. The French use black currants as the basis for the liqueur called cassis, but that drink has none of the musky quality of the garden-fresh fruit. Many people make black currant syrup from the berries cooked with sugar, then strained. It’s wonderful over vanilla ice cream or lemon sorbet, but again, cooking destroys its earthiness.

There is only one way to experience the unique taste of fresh black currants, and that’s to find a bush in full fruit or grow one yourself.

If you find you really like black currants and want another bush or two, in the spring, before the buds have opened, simply cut off the outer 12 inches of as many branches as you want new plants.

Nick off all but the top two buds and plant the sticks in partial shade in good, moist compost up to about three inches below the lowest of the un-nicked buds. Make sure the soil is pressed firmly around the sticks. Keep the compost well watered and soon the sticks will sprout leaves. They’ll be making roots under the compost. Allow them to grow all summer, keeping the compost well moistened.

They’ll go dormant in the fall. The next spring, take up the young currants and plant them where you want them. Water them well after transplanting. It’s as simple as that.

There’s one more class of plants whose charms are greatest when they’re ready to pick right outside your kitchen door—and that’s herbs. Almost all of them take well to pot culture as well as growing in the ground. An herb garden is essential for the best-tasting, freshest herbs. In a 10 by 10-foot square—that’s 100 square feet—you can grow more than enough herbs for all your kitchen uses. The Provencal herbs—lavender, sage, rosemary, and thyme—grow best

in poor, sandy, well-drained, even dry soil. They develop the most robust aromas and flavors when stressed. To a lesser extent, so do oregano and marjoram.

Plant lots of parsley—both the Italian flatleaf kind and curly parsley.

It’s wonderfully nutritious as well as a basic ingredient in gremolata and persillade. There will be plenty of room for herbs like basil, lovage, dill, tarragon, chives, chervil, mint, summer savory, winter savory, epazote, and many others. If you can only grow in pots, make sure you have thyme, oregano, and parsley, at least. They all grow well in pots, and, in fact, of all plants, herbs are the easiest to grow.

The dried herbs you buy in the spice racks, and even the fresh herbs you buy in plastic clamshells in the markets, can’t compare to the wonderfully fragrant and tasty herbs you pick just before you use them in your cooking.

So, if you’re reading this, you are already predisposed to wanting the best tasting food you can find. You already know that means it’s locally grown, recently picked, in season, and organic. Now go one step better and discover the intensity and delight of food you grow yourself.

JEFF COX is the author of “The Organic Cook’s Bible,” published

by John Wiley & Sons, which has been nominated for an award by The James Beard Foundation. He’s written 16 other books on food, wine, and gardening. He’s a contributing editor to The Wine News and writes frequently for Decanter magazine in London. He’s also the restaurant critic for the Santa Rosa (CA) Press Democrat. Jeff spent 30 years with Rodale as Managing Editor of Organic Gardening, Associate Editor of Prevention, Director of Electronic Publishing, Senior Editor in the Book Division, West Coast Editorial Director, and Contributing Editor of Men’s Health. He’s also hosted two television series, “Your Organic Garden” for PBS and “Grow It!” for HGTV. Finally, here’s a promotional blurb for the book: The Organic Cook’s Bible is 556 pages chock full of information on 125 kitchen staples—fruits, vegetables, meats, dairy, oils, flours, eggs, seeds and nuts, herbs, and much more, all from the organic angle. It contains over 700 variety recommendations for the highest quality produce, along with 250 recipes and over 200 color photos.

It has been nominated for an award in the reference book category

by The James Beard Foundation. And, as Florence Fabricant wrote in The New York Times: “...it is never dull.”

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cooking fresh ENTERTAINING WITH ALOHA By dahlia haas

FROM THE FARM TO THE TABLE It’s Tuesday and on our doorstep is a box overflowing with organic produce delivered to us from the Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) farm across the street. On the East Coast, seltzer water used to be home-delivered. All across America, everyone remembers the milkman! However here on the Hawaiian Islands, and for just $25, we get a weekly surprise. It’s a carton filled with local home-grown vegetables and fruit, plucked fresh from the earth just hours ago, landing in our kitchens.

The contents vary seasonally. Staples indigenous to this land include a wide variety of sauté greens such as kale, bok choy, choy sum and baby spinach. This climate is perfect for growing all varieties of hearty and delicate salad lettuce such as peppery arugula and mustard-flavored mizuna. Always included is a tropical blend of exotic island-specific products such as pumpkin-colored tangelos, lilikoi, red bananas, sugar cane, pineapple, red mountain apples, purple Molokai potatoes and toy box tomatoes. Whatever the combination, it’s always an exciting challenge to figure out what to cook for the week, even for a seasoned chef like me.

Today’s delivery is a glorious mix of summer freshness: half a dozen compact heads of Romaine lettuce, sweet Maui onions, vineripened tomatoes, big fragrant bushy bunches of basil, cilantro, yard-long scallions, giant soft avocados, lots of garlic, ginger root as big as a hand, Japanese eggplants, summer zucchini and a sack filled with tiny green lemons that look like California limes.

Right now, I’m thinking about a surf and turf menu, Hawaiian style. My inspiration comes from a new way to tenderize steak, which I know will delight my meat-loving friends. It’s an outrageous recipe from my dear friends Jackie and Dana, made with finely ground Kona coffee, dark brown sugar, Hawaiian salt and cracked black pepper. Yesterday, by sheer luck, I stumbled upon the shrimpmonger and bought enough fresh Kahuku shrimp to feed a small army. Since both the steak and shrimp are barbecued, why not grill the Romaine lettuce as well? If you haven’t had grilled Romaine lettuce, it’s all the rage right now. I’ll make another salad with cubed avocado, tomatoes and chopped Maui onions, plop that on top of the grilled Romaine lettuce. This dinner also calls for passion fruit couscous—it’s easy to assemble and adds yet another layer of flavor.

Each box of produce becomes a beautiful menu to share with family and friends and an opportunity to cook healthy foods the

day they land at the door.

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BBQ ROMAINE SALAD WITH HAMAKUA TOMATOES AND AVOCADO

by Dahlia Haas 3 heads Romaine, split in half Olive oil to drizzle Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 6 tomatoes, seeded and finely diced 2 avocados, peeled and cubed ½ bunch basil leaves, chopped Juice from 2 lemons Shaved Parmesan-Reggiano cheese to garnish Heat the grill to a medium flame.

Drizzle the Romaine leaves with olive oil and season with salt and freshly ground pepper.

When the grill is hot, barbecue the Romaine leaves on both sides till lightly browned.

Remove from heat and place on a large platter.

In a medium bowl, mix together the cubed tomatoes, avocado and basil. Mix gently to combine, then add the lemon juice. Pour this mixture over the Romaine and top with the shaved Parmesan-Reggiano cheese.

Serves 4.

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GRILLED STEAKS WITH KONA COFFEE RUB AND MARSALA WINE SAUCE

by Dahlia Haas Kona coffee rub: 1/3 cup Kona coffee, finely ground 2/3 cup brown sugar, finely packed 1 T. All Spice Salt and coarsely cracked pepper to taste 4 New York, Tenderloin or Rib Eye steaks, about 2 inches thick Marsala wine sauce: 1 cup barbecue sauce, your choice 3 T. butter, softened 1/3 cup Kona coffee, ground 1/4 cup Marsala wine Method for steaks: Mix rub ingredients together in a small plate and divide evenly on both sides of each steak. Let stand for 4 hours or less in room temperature.

Mix the sauce ingredients in a large skillet, whisk to combine.

Simmer for 3 minutes. Can be made ahead.

Heat the grill to 400o F. Sear the steaks on both sides until cooked to medium rare.

Remove the steaks from the grill and place them in the Marsala wine sauce and reheat slightly to combine the flavors.

Slice the steaks on a diagonal, against the grain, and serve on a large platter with the Marsala wine sauce.

GRILLED SHRIMP SCAMPI WITH GINGER PESTO

Serves 4.

by Dahlia Haas 16 large shrimp 8 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 4 T. ginger, minced 6 T. soy sauce ½ bunch parsley, minced ½ bunch basil, minced 2 scallions, minced Juice of 2 lemons Salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste

PASSION FRUIT COUSCOUS

by Dahlia Haas

Peel and devein the shrimp. Butterfly them and leave the tails attached. Put shrimp on a baking sheet making them as flat as possible.

Photograph: Carole Topalian

On each shrimp put some minced garlic, ginger, parsley, basil and scallions, and sprinkle with the soy sauce, salt and pepper.

Squeeze fresh lemon over them and marinate overnight (or at least 3 hours) in the fridge.

Light the grill and turn to low heat. Cook the shrimp on the grill until tender, about 5 minutes.

Serve on a large platter.

1 ¼ cups passion fruit juice 1 cup cup quick-cook couscous 1 T. Chinese sesame oil 1 large carrot, peeled and diced 1 stalk celery, diced 2 T. fresh ginger root, peeled and minced 2 T. currants ½ 1 cup macadamia nuts, toasted and chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Heat the passion fruit juice in a medium saucepan over a medium flame. When the juice boils, add the couscous and sesame oil. Cover the pan and remove from heat. Let the couscous sit for 5 minutes and then fluff it with a fork.

Add the rest of the ingredients, stirring to combine. The couscous can be served warm or at room temperature.

Serves 4.

Serves 4.

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What’s in Season Now Buy Fresh, Buy Local As a consumer, there are many things you can do to help insure our foodshed.

Buy Local: Support your local farmers’ markets, and ask if the produce is local.

Eat at restaurants the serve local produce and product: Ask where your food comes from.

Support a “food” bill in Congress: Rather than a farm bill that funnels Federal money to large-scale commodity growers, for 2007 demand that Congress pass a food bill that will direct Federal investments toward regional food networks and better conservation practices.

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VEGGIES

FRUIT

Beans Beets Bok choy Cabbage Cucumber Daikon Dark leafy greens Eggplant Ginger root Hearts of palm Lettuce Luau (Taro) leaf Mushrooms Onions Peppers Taro Sprouts Squash (Oriental) Sweet Potato Tomatoes Turnips Watercress

Avocado Banana Coconut Cantaloupe Dragon fruit Egg fruit Honeydew Lime Lychee Mango Papaya Passion fruit Pineapple Pomegranate Strawberry guava Tamarind Watermelon

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chefs in hawaii ALAN WONG: STILL FORAGING FOR ISLANDS’ BEST FOODS

by Joan Namkoong

More than 15 years ago, a dozen energetic fine-hotel and restaurant chefs got together to change the way we eat in Hawaii. It wasn’t their original intent; they were merely trying to change the ingredients and menus in their own kitchens by buying fresh, local ingredients from island producers and preparing them in ways that reflected the ethnic diversity of the islands. Hawaii Regional Cuisine was born of their commitment.

In its early years, HRC was exclusive food, served mostly in highend hotels and first-class restaurants. HRC chefs became celebrities, many opening their own restaurants, adhering to the fresh-and-local theme. But its tenets—celebrating the variety of foods of a melting pot of eastern and western cultures—began to trickle down and permeate island food culture.

One of the founding HRC chefs is Alan Wong, a James Beard Award–winning chef, whose namesake restaurant in Honolulu repeatedly takes top honors in local and national media. There’s no question that his food is outstanding and deserving of accolades, but why?

Certainly it can be attributed to his classic French training as an intern at the Greenbriar in West Virginia and years spent in the kitchen of the classic French restaurant Lutece in New York City.

The graduate of Kapiolani Community College’s culinary program paid his dues on the mainland before returning to Hawaii to head up

the kitchen of the Canoe House at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel and Bungalows on Hawaii Island, where he began his ascent to culinary stardom. He joined the HRC movement while at the Canoe House, before opening his own restaurant in 1995 in Honolulu. More importantly, he has held to the commitment of the HRC founders to this day and this has no doubt been one of the keys to his success.

Peruse the menu of Alan Wong’s Restaurant on King Street, the Pineapple Room at Macy’s at Ala Moana Center, both in Honolulu, and Hualalai Grille by Alan Wong on Hawaii Island and you will see a directory of Hawaii’s “star” farmers who produce a unique array of products that are among the best Hawaii’s agricultural community has to offer. From Hawaii Island there are tomatoes and salad greens from Hamakua Springs Country Farm; goat cheese from Hawaii Island Goat Dairy; mushrooms from Hamakua Mushrooms; hearts of palm from Wailea Ag Group; kampachi from Kona Blue Water Farms; lobster from Kona Cold Lobster; abalone from Big Island Abalone; wasabi from Yamashiro Farm and an occasional lamb from Kahua Ranch. From Maui there’s beef from Maui Cattle Co. and pohole fern shoots from Edible Flowers. From Oahu there’s beef from North Shore Cattle Co.; asparagus from Twin Bridge Farm; tomatoes from North Shore Farms; corn from Nozawa Farm; greens from Poamoho Organics, Ma‘o Farm and Nalo Farm and chocolate from Dole Foods. And of course, there’s lots of fresh fish from Hawaii’s fishermen.

All these ingredients are presented in the “Wong Way,” prepared to allow the true flavors to come through but with a touch of finesse and whimsy. Take the Hamakua Springs Country Farm tomatoes, for instance. The red, yellow, green, orange and purplish tomatoes are cut into bite-sized morsels and arranged like a haku lei on a white

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rectangular plate, garnished with flavorful shiso buds. A creamy li hing mui vinaigrette accompanies the tomatoes, the sweet-sour-salty crack seed flavor accentuating the luscious ripe flavor of the tomatoes. It’s a perfect pairing and each bite begs for another.

There are many more food producers who supply the ever changing and creative menus at Wong’s restaurants. From a restaurant’s perspective, it’s a hassle to deal with so many vendors, making sure shipments arrive and paperwork gets handled properly. And it can be frustrating for a chef who must buy some ingredients from the mainland when he’d like to have it all come from local sources.

Wong still has to buy mainland items like potatoes, onions, carrots, celery, berries and most proteins like chicken, pork, lamb, scallops, shrimp, clams and oysters.

“Fifty one percent of our menu is local,” says Wong. “We buy from outside of Hawaii, simply because we don’t have it here.”

But Wong continues to forage among island farmers and food producers for fresh ingredients to include in his menus. Why? “Trends come and go, things change,” explains Wong in his characteristic humble and philosophical way. “Over the long haul, the relationships will survive and that’s the most important thing.

“When you have that relationship with farmers and they have a relationship with you, over time it grows into trust. It’s a real relationship, you know each other by first names, you have a history,

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you’ve been together. You talk about food and cooking and farming.

It gets to a point where the chef knows something is in the ground or better yet, the farmer asks me what to grow.”

A few times a year, Wong reconnects with his farmers on their turf, bringing new staff on these excursions so they can learn about what’s on the menu.

“I want them to see what I see, taste what I taste, experience what I experience so they can see how I think and what I’m doing,” says Wong. “Then it’s not just goat cheese but it’s Dick and Heather’s [Threlfall] goat cheese. They can put a name and a face to the food.

For wait staff and managers, they have a story to tell when someone asks about the menu. They can tell it from first-hand experience.”

Wong’s commitment to buying from local sources is strong. “It supports local farmers, it helps save our environment,” says Wong.

As a member of the HRC chefs group, Wong’s actions have also helped to support the growth of local agriculture for everyone.

Frozen fish and vegetables, mainstays of pre-HRC dining rooms, are no longer the standard; fresh and local is in at many small cafes, lunch wagons and mom-and-pop diners. And just about every item Wong serves is available to local consumers, especially at farmers’ markets. HRC has not only spawned great food in restaurants but

it has brought great food to all of us.

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BACK OF THE HOUSE-UP FRONT: WITH JIM MOFFAT

by G. Cohen

Restaurant Bar Acuda Unique for the north shore of Kaua’i, restaurant Bar Acuda stands out as a place we all go to share tapas and a fine glass of wine with family, friends or guests visiting from the mainland. Nestled deep in the heart of Hanalei town is where award-winning chef/owner Jim Moffat and his lovely partner Sonja Postaer have put down roots.

As soon as you enter Bar Acuda, you know it’s going to be a fun evening. The staff is smiling; the atmosphere is welcoming. The bar area is cool, with a large-screen TV showing anything from Blue Planet series to old black & white movies—recently even shots from their trip to Italy.

Jim’s relationship with food began in the outskirts of Montreal at

his family’s European Auberge, where his father was the chef. Travels throughout Southern Europe and the Mediterranean inspired his culinary style, and is evident in the flavors and dishes prepared at Bar Acuda. The success of his two San Francisco restaurants, 42 Degrees and The Slow Club, earning numerous local and national awards, earned Jim recognition in Food & Wine magazine’s “Top 10 New American Chefs” in 1996.

Moffat’s love for simple, fresh food requires procuring the best ingredients available. On remote Kaua’i, Jim’s alliance with local fishermen and organic farmers has helped to provide the quality, seasonal elements that are at the heart of his recipes. For instance, honeycomb from the North Shore with Kunana Farms goat cheese, Mizuna greens and apple. All local ingredients, with flavors so re-

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markable very little needs to be done with them. There is always a new pizza that you can’t resist as well as salads; the new chopped salad is the way to go.

If you prefer a full dinner as opposed to tapas style, that is also available for your dinning pleasure. Because Bar Acuda’s menu revolves around the freshness of ingredients, it changes frequently.

This is so important for those of us who live on the islands. Many restaurants have the same menu year after year, and it’s nice to know you may be surprised with something new from the kitchen. This is a restaurant that you can go to more than once a week.

“Each day I endeavor to create both original and classic recipes

using the freshest ingredients from Kaua’i and around the world.

Our move to Hanale’i was about quality of life and about doing something extraordinary; my staff and I work a shorter, five-day workweek and we embrace the island lifestyle. This way, we are rejuvenated and fully dedicated during the nights when Bar Acuda is ‘alive.’”

Wanting to do something different, Jim considers this home and his staff his ‘ohana. He believes in taking care of his staff, which is evident with the smiles that greet you. Just take a look at the photos here and it’s easy to see the relationship that exists here. As a guest, Jim and staff make you feel that you are part of their ‘ohana.

The North Shore of Kaua’i surrounded by mountains and waterfalls. It’s dinnertime. Moffat keeps an immaculate kitchen, which is in plain view of the customers. Sit at the teak bar and watch the artistic complexity of a working kitchen. This is one of my favorite spots to have dinner, watching it all happen.

CHOPPED SALAD From Restaurant Bar Acuda Salad ½ cup carrot, finely diced and blanched ½ cup French Beans, finely diced and blanched ½ cup prepared artichoke hearts, finely diced ½ cup celery, finely diced ½ cup tomato meat, finely diced ½ cup romaine leaf, finely diced ½ cup radicchio, finely diced ½ cup avocado, finely diced ½ cup egg white, cooked and finely diced Parmesan, grated salt and pepper to taste

Make emulsified vinaigrette by slowly whisking the olive oil into the other vinaigrette ingredients. Season with salt and pepper.

Mix all salad ingredients together. Add vinaigrette and mix lightly. Place into a ring mold and pack lightly. Garnish with tender greens or micro greens.

Serves 6.

This is a very versatile salad. Any of the ingredients may be substituted with local, seasonal favorites.

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Photographs: Lauren Brandt and Oliver Cohen

Vinaigrette 2 T. Dijon 2 T. shallots-finely diced 2 T. sherry vinegar salt and pepper to taste ½ cup extra virgin olive oil

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BLOOD ORANGE GRANITA From Restaurant Bar Acuda 4 cups blood orange juice 1 cup sugar 1 cup water ½ cup Meyer lemon juice ½ cup vodka Mix all ingredients together and place in the freezer for 6 hours or until solid.

Scrape with a spoon until light and fluffy.

Serve alone or with vanilla ice cream.

Serves 6.

You may substitute the blood orange juice with any other fruit juice, such as tangerine, grapefruit or pineapple.

Bar Acuda 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy, Hanale’i, Kaua’i Bar opens at 5 p.m., dinner at 6 p.m.

Closed on Mondays Reservations: 808-826-7081 restaurantbaracuda.com NNN <;@9C<8CF?8 :FD Summer 2007

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Liquid Assets WATER WATER By tim ryan photo by steve knox

TASTE OF WATER If it looks like drinking water, tastes like drinking water, smells like drinking water, then it’s got to be drinking water. Right?

But the unlabeled bottle of water I’m holding has come from 2,000 feet below the ocean surface—“harvested” about three miles off the Waianae Coast. (See accompanying story.)

So it was salt water but changed through reverse osmosis to fresh.

This is about the most unscientific taste test you can imagine except that taste, well, is just about that initial sip and taste. I think we can agree that water, whether from the tap or “manufactured,” is not created equal.

According to Rich Treadway, chief operating officer for Oahu-based DOHawaii, and other research I’ve checked out, deep ocean water sitting below the protective thermoclime likely is the purest water on earth since it’s been sitting down there for thousands of years.

After pouring the DOH water into a goblet, I hold it up to the light and see nothing floating in it—that’s a good sign—no fizz, and the color as clear as, well, water. But it looks heavier, which I know makes no sense at all. I swirl the liquid in the glass like wine and there are few bubbles. When I sniff the liquid it has a sharp, fresh aroma.

The first light sip I swirl in my mouth briefly, then swallow.

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The second sip is larger, sans swirl.

The DOHawaii water has an uncomplicated taste, meaning low mineral content and no added flavors. I’ll call it honest water that cleans my palate better than other bottled water I drink.

Now here’s the odd thing: The water feels heavier, more dense, substantial and, as a result, filling. Yes, filling—and not from drinking a lot of it, since Treadway only gave me one small bottle. The first thing that came to my mind was drinking DOH water between meals, like water in general, would be a good appetite suppressant. Maybe the heavier sensation is just me.

Deep ocean water is bacteria-free and rich in minerals and nutrition. DOHawaii water has had all the salts removed and mineral content down to below 200 parts per million, Treadway said. Health benefits of deep ocean water have not been scientifically proven and DOHawaii makes no claims, through some Asian companies say it can help boost the immune system, relieve stress and prevent cardiovascular diseases.

Bottom line for me is that when someone produces DOHawaii water into drinking bottles it will definitely be part of my water regime. When I finished my DOHawaii water my thirst was solidly quenched, my mouth felt refreshed and I decided to skip that Big Mac for lunch.

That’s a good thing.

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DEEP OCEAN DRINKING Clear. Colorless. Odorless. Priceless.

In its purest form, the value of water is immeasurable—from quenching thirsts after a jog to keeping humans alive. We are, after all, as much as 65 percent water.

But a not-so-funny-thing happened on the way to an advanced and industrialized society: Water got polluted, sometimes so catastrophically that the diseases it carried killed millions of us.

Since clean water is diminishing worldwide, where exactly is the largest and purest source of fresh water on the planet? Mother Ocean.

Once considered too expensive to desalinate in large quantities, some companies with newer and more efficient technologies have begun “harvesting” deep ocean water that’s been protected from sunlight, bacteria and essentially all pollution for thousands of years. (“Deep ocean water” refers to water at 200 meters under the sea surface.)

Three miles off Oahu’s Leeward Coast floats a former Alaska fishing boat, which has swapped crab cages for an 80,000-gallon-a-day reverse-osmosis desalination machine, chlorinator and dechlorinator. Below the 144-foot Spirit of the North is a 3,000-foot-deep volcanic trench. A slender and flexible hose extends from Spirit down 2,000 feet, where it collects “the cashmere of water,” said Rich Treadway, executive vice president of Deep Ocean Hawaii.

DOHawaii (DOH) believes that food and beverage manufacturers, health and beauty product makers and water bottlers thirst for such a gourmet water not only for its purity and possible health benefits, but also for the marketing value of the Hawaii brand. DOH is not manufacturing any of its own products, only marketing the water as “an ingredient,” Treadway said.

Some deep water harvesting companies in Asia claim that the liquid can help boost the immune system, relieve stress and prevent cardiovascular diseases, which is why it’s priced higher than bottled water or mineral water. DOH does not make any medical claims about the water.

“We want water bottlers to sculpt the water with other ingredients as they see marketable, whether it’s injecting some minerals back into it or adding flavors,” he said.

The ocean contains about 30,000 parts per million of dissolved salts, magnesium, potassium, calcium and other minerals. Municipal water, essentially mineral water, has less than 400 ppm. Some bottlers are expected to purify the DOH water down to 10 ppm or less, which is purified water, Treadway said. DOH’s finished water has 186 ppm.

“We’ve learned that people are interested in the water at a certain mineral level for taste,” Treadway say. “The same goes for food and beverage and health and beauty industry clients.”

DOH expects food processors to use deep ocean Hawaii water for canned tuna, tofu, pickling, juices, sauces and in brewing beer. Several breweries and Hawaii water bottlers are “very interested” in the deep ocean water, said Treadway, who declined to name them.

Illinois-based beverage maker RushNet, Inc., has announced that it would create a new Deep Ocean Hawaii version of its electrolyte water, e-Water. Deep Ocean Hawaii will be the exclusive provider to RushNet’s California bottling facility. In a

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news release, RushNet said it would first market the water in Japan, where deep ocean water is already popular.

Treadway also said that spas are considering using the “raw” deep ocean water in various treatments and some hotels want to use the desalinated water to launder linens and towels. Health and beauty product manufacturers are considering using the water in facial creams, shampoos and other items, he said.

Deep ocean water’s purity is primarily due to a temperature layer called thermoclime, which sits atop the water and protects it from pollution and bacteria, Treadway said. The deep ocean water harvested by DOH “hasn’t seen the light of day … for at least 1,000 years, maybe 2,000,” he said.

It’s believed that a long journey brought the water to settle off Hawaii, beginning in the North Atlantic, flowing through the Arctic, under Greenland, and then around and down the channels of the Pacific Ocean. The ocean depths off Hawaii, one of the most geographically isolated locations on earth, are buffered by thousands of miles of ocean.

The Oahu location is ideal for harvesting and shipping the water

because of its proximity to Honolulu Harbor, where it is pumped into dozens of the 5,200-gallon FDA-approved bladders like those used to transport wine to bottlers.

Once the water reaches the surface it is desalinated, passed by ultraviolet light, chlorinated (to comply with health department regulations) and then dechlorinated.

The DOH product is undergoing government-sanctioned laboratory testing for purity. The company hopes to receive approvals by fall.

“There are plenty of water bottlers here and on the mainland standing by to bottle this deep ocean water,” said Treadway.

There are four deep-water harvesters on the Big Island alone.

Kona Deep, bottled by Deep SeaWater International, Inc., began selling in Hawaii earlier this year. The company uses a pipeline from shore into the depths to harvest its water. Another Big Island water bottler is Koyo USA Corp., the largest deep-sea water bottling facility in the world. The company’s MaHaLo Hawaii Deep Sea water retails for $67.50 a case, each containing 15 1.5-liter bottles, according to its website.

Save our water. Whether or not we're in a drought, every drop counts. Turn off the tap while brushing and upgrade your shower heads with low flow fixtures.

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Photograph: Natale

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inspiring others By g. cohen

Winter of 2006 on the North Shore of Kauai, an unspeakable tragedy occurred. Old friends for many years lost their daughter Aurora, grandson and son-in-law in the flood that swept them away along with four other young people.

In an outreach designed to honor Aurora, Alan and Rowan, as well as help to manifest some goodness out of such tragedy, the Fehring family has started The Aurora Foundation. Aurora always had a love and commitment to children and a deep concern for the orphans of the world. In that vein, the foundation is dedicated to assisting children in need by supporting health, education, and cultural heritage programs.

Bruce Fehring says, "Transforming the loss of our loved ones into meaningful work helps us to cope, to nurture our inner goodness, and to spread the love." Cyndee has taken on the task to find a sponsor for every child at Children of the Forest Project in Thailand. "It is a home for Burmese refugee children. There is not one child there who has not had to go through a great loss or tragedy in their life. It is incredibly heartwarming to be with them, their beautiful smiles and open hearts."

We at Edible Hawaiian Islands hope that you will find it in your heart to help support The Aurora Foundation in their important work. See below for

more information.

THE AURORA FOUNDATION "Change a Child's Life" For less than $1 per day you can assure that a child will be fed and has the opportunity to be educated. www.theaurorafoundation.org

PO Box 565 Kilauea, HI 96754

866-828-0893

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REcipe ROUNDUP MANGO GRANITA

SALAD OF ARUGULA, DUCK CONFIT AND BALSAMIC REDUCTION

from the Editors 1 ripe mango, chopped very fine 2 ½ cups guava/passion fruit juice ½ t. lime zest ½ cup Maui sugar ¼ Cup Maui Mango Sugar 1 cup boiling water Mint for garnish Mix first three ingredients well.

Add boiling water to sugar in separate bowl and mix till dissolved.

Add sugar water to mixture and mix.

Pour into 9-inch glass pan and freeze 3–4 hours.

Every now and then churn it up with a fork.

Serve in pretty glasses, and top with a tiny dollop of coconut ice cream.

Serves 6.

Maui Mango Sugar is made from pure Hawaiian sugar cane by the Maui Culinary Academy. Net proceeds benefit the Maui Culinary Academy. www.mauiculinary.com

RED CABBAGE AND PINEAPPLE SALAD from the Editors 1 small head local red cabbage 1 cup finely chopped celery ½ cup peppers (for eye appeal, try to find orange ones) 1 cup fresh pineapple, cut in ½-inch pieces Salt and pepper to taste Dressing: Reduced Balsamic drizzled over mixture Balsamic Reduction 4 cups balsamic vinegar

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3 cups young arugula greens 1 leg of duck confit Slices of fresh mango (pears work well too) Slivered almonds to sprinkle on top (optional) Olive oil Balsamic reduction (recipe follows) Shaved Parmesan cheese Salt and pepper to taste Shred duck confit and lay on bed of arugula Shave several slivers of Parmesan cheese Drizzle balsamic reduction and olive oil over greens Season with salt and pepper.

Makes 2 entrées or 4 small salads Note: Use only fresh Parmesan cheese.

Balsamic Reduction 4 cups balsamic vinegar Reduce by slowly simmering on low heat down to 1½ cups.

This should take about 2 hours. Simmer slowly until it evaporates to a heavy syrup. Needs to be watched constantly ... do not boil or place on high heat as it may burn. Store It takes a lot of patience but is worth it. Save in a bottle; no refrigeration needed.

This reduction is great drizzled on: Any salad Chunks of Parmesan cheese Roast beef Roast lamb (Especially cold roast beef or lamb sandwiches with fresh tomato and arugula) Vanilla ice cream (believe it or not!)

Note: Duck confit is available at Fujioka’s in Honolulu.

Reduce by slowly simmering on low heat down to 1 cup. This should take about 2 hours. Simmer slowly until it evaporates to a heavy syrup. Needs to be watched constantly ... do not boil or place on high heat as it may burn. It takes a lot of patience but is worth it. Save in a bottle; no refrigeration needed.

You can save bottles from other vinegars for this purpose.

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RESTAURANT ROUNDUP

By SUE KIYABU

Spring—a time for new beginnings—hit O’ahu with a bright, refreshing punch this year: a slew of new restaurants. The highly anticipated openings from several of the Islands’ most notable chefs, in addition to talented newcomers, invigorate O’ahu’s already lively dining scene.

More than 15 years ago, the Hawai’i Regional Cuisine (HRC) movement transformed dining in Hawai’i, making continental cuisine a thing of the past and creating strong bonds between chefs and local growers. Today, those bonds are solidified, along with Hawai’i’s reputation as a dining destination.

Two of HRC’s high-profile founders began new ventures this spring: George Mavrothalassitis with Cassis by ChefMavro and Philippe Padovani, who joined forces with Honolulu favorite Donato Loperfido for ‘Elua Restaurant & Wine Bar. Town’s Ed Kenney checked into his master file for his new restaurant, Downtown @ the HiSAM and former Big Island chef Jon Matsubara brought his credibility and contacts to O’ahu with Stage. O’ahu foodies finally got their fix from Nobu Matsuhisa, who opened his restaurant Nobu Waikiki in the Waikiki Parc Hotel in late May. With creative chefs offering a fresh spin on island cuisine, while promoting local ingredients and farmers, spring sprung new life into dining options on O’ahu. Here’s a look at recent openings.

Cassis by Chef Mavro—George “Chef Mavro” Mavrothalassitis returns to his roots in Southern France. The James Beard Award– winner says his customers have long asked him to open a bistro that pays homage to the classics. Cassis was inspired by four different cooking regions—Cassis, Alsace, Paris and Honolulu—and offers a sophisticated but casual experience, a straightforward cooking style that embodies the modern bistro. The 295-seat downtown space, once occupied by the Palamino restaurant chain, received a facelift

by Honolulu uber-designer Mary Philpotts and now is graced with warm earth tones, dark-marble tabletops and high-end designer lighting. With help from his chef de cuisine Ben Takahashi, Mavrothalassitis has expanded his list of local producers. “What is going on on the Big Island with produce is just amazing, with the goat cheese, with the mushrooms … oh, you name it,” Mavrothalassitis says. Farm-raised oysters from the Big Island are served simply on the half shell with a choice of two house-made sauces; mussels make their way into moules frite; greens from Hirabara Farms can be found on the house-smoked duck salad and mushrooms from Hamakua flavor a rich risotto. Cassis is open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday and for dinner on Saturday. Cassis by Chef Mavro, 66 Queen St. (at Bethel); 808-545-8100; www.cassishonolulu.com.

Above, from left: Executive Chef Ben Takahashi and Chef/owner Mavro of Cassis; grilled Ahi Nicoise salad.

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Downtown @ the HiSAM—Two years ago, Ed Kenney opened Town, committing himself to local and organic producers for his American bistro with an Italian slant. “Two years ago, it was a little tough, we almost felt limited,” says Kenney. “But now, it’s to the point where because there is so much to choose from, that if it isn’t grown locally, we don’t even think about it.”

In May, Kenney—who keeps a file of restaurant ideas—opened his take on the museum café, along with chef-partner David Caldiero and chef de cuisine Steve Brown. It’s a modern space with clean, Scandinavian lines in the historic Hawai’i State Art Museum building. Downtown seats 80 inside and 20 outside, and offers a local twist on the take-out lunches. Panini sandwiches, soups and savory tarts are served along with a choice of sides—in the style of Korean barbecue, but with European influences. “So instead of taegu and watercress, we’ll have marinated mushrooms and eggplant caponata,” Kenney says. For sit-down service, the menu will change seasonally, but look for a beef stew, house-cured meats, beet salad with goat cheese and a housemade North Shore Cattle Co. haute dog. Downtown is open at 7 a.m. for pastries and coffee, and serves lunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Downtown @ the HiSAM, 250 South Hotel St.; 808-536-5900.

Left, from top: Chef de cusine David Caldiero and Chef/owner Ed Kenney; a seasonal salad.

‘Elua Restaurant & Wine Bar—Two of O’ahu’s most celebrated chefs got together this year to produce one fairly revolutionary concept. In the space once occupied by L’Uraku on Kapiolani, Donato Loperfido and Philippe Padovani opened ‘Elua, which means two. Loperfido had a cult following at Donato’s, the Manoa Italian eatery which closed last year, and Padovani, an HRC founder and pioneer of the upscale wine bar on O’ahu, closed his namesake restaurant in 2005. Both moved on—Loperfido with a busy import business, consulting for other restaurants and his new venture, Pasta et Basta in Restaurant Row and Padovani with his high-end chocolate shops.

This year, the duo came up with an unusual premise: two chefs, two separate tasting menus, one restaurant. “The tasting menu will change every three days,” says Loperfido, although ‘Elua also offers standing menu, which will change seasonally. Each chef heads the kitchen on separate days; each chef has his own sous chef and his own tasting menu. Once a month, they work together on a menu.

‘Elua also features wine pairing and a 24-spigot magnum Cruvinet system. Open for lunch and dinner. ‘Elua Restaurant & Wine Bar, 1341 Kapiolani Blvd.; (no phone number yet).

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Above: Chef Donato Loperfido with some of his signature dishes at ‘Elua.

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Nobu Waikiki—O’ahu has been waiting for Nobu Matsuhisa. Rumors of the restaurant’s opening circulated for more than a year, causing one anxious food writer to declare that it would be “opening sometime this century.” For fans of his “new style” Japanese cuisine, Nobu is worth the wait. Nobu Waikiki, located in the Waikiki Parc Hotel, includes his signature dishes—such as Black Cod Saikyo Miso and yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño—along with new dishes invented at his growing worldwide empire.

Nobu is known for his use of fresh, local ingredients and the Waikiki location will be no exception. The 7,500-square-foot chic, modern space, designed by the Rockwell Group, will accommodate up to 250 in the main dining room and also includes a separate bar/cocktail lounge.

Nobu Waikiki, Waikiki Parc Hotel; 808237-6999.

Above: Chef Jon Matsubara performs on the line at Stage.

Above: Chef Nobu Matsuhisa.

Left: Scallops, Nobu style.

Stage Restaurant—Jon Matsubara wants his latest restaurant to reflect his passions—travel and food. Matsubara, who worked at Big Island’s CanoeHouse at the Mauna Lani Resort and also in New York at Bouley, Tabla and Restaurant Jean Georges, says that when he travels, he likes to replicate his culinary experiences for his family. At Stage, he’s doing that on a larger scale. “I want to take the best of what I’ve experienced and share that with the people of Hawai’i,” Matsubara says. Not surprisingly, Big Island growers play an important part of his menu. Hirabara Farms grows specific items—like micro lemon grass—to fit his flavor profiles, which are on one hand eclectic and on the other classic. Vinegar made with baby beets is paired with lobster, while chicken is paired with Swiss chard, chiles and a Parmesan sauce. He plans to change the menu when inspired and subscribes to the philosophy that “you have to cook with two feet on the ground.” Stage Restaurant, Honolulu Design Center, 1250 Kapiolani Blvd.; 808-2375429.

The new guard promises to infuse new life into dining in town, showcasing the creative talents of chefs and the creative uses for island produce.

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indigenous industry ICING ON THE CAKE By g. cohen

Enchanted when I saw the website for Icing on the Cake, I just wanted to eat the pages. After a phone call to make an appointment, which is what you need to do to see Andrea Quinn and her husband, Patrick, I was excited to see the source of some of the islands’ most luscious and beautiful cakes, reminiscent of the beauty of Hawaii.

Tucked away in the town of Kapa’a on the Island of Kauai, classical music playing softly in the background, we entered and found ourselves in one big kitchen. While we were there, Andrea was decorating a wedding cake, using Ti leaves under the cake instead of paper doilies. The cake was a white lilikoi, with a yummy-looking ivory butter cream frosting—it was all I could do to not put my finger in it for a lick. Then, like a drum roll, she arranged orchids cascading around the cake, placed with artfulness

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and care.

After the cake was done, we got to watch key lime coconut macaroons (one of my favorites) placed onto baking sheets with an ice cream scoop. The Quinns use as many local ingredients as possible, including the coconut (which we have in great abundance), honey from Kilauea Aviary and Kauai Farm eggs. When I asked if they used a purveyor, they smiled … no, it’s local style: You just call up and see if they have what you need.

Committed to using only the finest local ingredients, Icing on the Cake is a proud supporter of sustainable agriculture and local farmers of Kauai. By the way, if you have any Meyer lemons, give them a call.

Andrea was born and raised in the San Francisco Bay Area, in the farming community of Brentwood. Her childhood was spent on

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the family almond orchard, where she cooked with her mother using fresh produce from their garden and neighboring farms. Andrea met her husband to be, Patrick, during her freshman year in high school. Together they explored the culinary wonders of San Francisco, Napa Valley and the Berkeley “gourmet ghetto,” establishing their love of the culinary arts.

After attending the California Culinary Academy, Andrea did an internship at Chez Panisse; it is here that she decided she would concentrate in the pastry arts. Andrea has strived to work in the highest-quality restaurants and hotels, where she would gain the most experience and knowledge to augment her classical education.

When she first came to Kauai, she worked as the pastry chef at Roy’s. After going out on her own, her delicious coconut macaroons carried her until she started getting all those requests for wedding cakes. (After all … we are the wedding capital of the world.)

Patrick is the other side of this creative duo, responsible for the beautiful labels and packaging. They make quite an artistic duo.

The Quinns will take your special order and deliver cakes and desserts for weddings, birthdays and parties. They also supply wholesale cakes, cookies, candies and pastries to restaurants, cafes and caterers on Kauai and the neighbor islands.

Whether for two or 200, Andrea’s attention to your personal vision and individuality is well worth the phone call.

Icing on the Cake is also a member of Kauai Made and Slow Food USA. Patrick is in the process of starting Slow Food Kauai, so be sure to join or email for more information. Don’t forget to check out their website to find out where you can get more of their delicious goodies.

Icing on the Cake 808-823-1210 icingonthecake.kauai@gmail.com www.icingonthecakekauai.com

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editor at large Moloka’i Birthday Trip

BY THE editor at large

It was another one of those “pain in my okole” birthdays. Of course I contemplated traveling to a faraway exotic place—I deserved this, having reached this moment in my life. However, once again, real life got in my way. Having to suck it up and make the best of a long weekend in my paradise, Moloka’i was on my list of places within the islands. How cool that on these Hawaiian Islands there is always someplace new to visit.

This trip is looking real fine, considering my wife has only carryon. I’ll tell you, I’ve been working on that one for many years.

After the short flight we arrived at a local-style airport. While waiting for our car, looking around, it reminded me of cowboys and ranches, not tropical swaying palm trees. OK, Honey, where’s the map and which way are we going? Luckily, Moloka’i is easy to navigate, so no problems here. We were headed to The Lodge at Moloka’i Ranch. We got there, and immediately I knew that this would be a peaceful and relaxing weekend: The stop signs on the street said WHOA. Was this a sign?

The staff at the hotel surprised me big time: They gave us a double upgrade—kama’aina and birthday present: a wonderful corner suite with a view of the ocean and pool. I was happy.

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In the dining room that evening, while chatting with the waitress—talking too much, as my wife likes to remind me—I mentioned that it was my birthday and that I wanted to do something special. Her face lit with a big smile. She announced that she, Marlene, and her husband Buzzy own Moloka’i Mule Rides and they take you to Kalaupapa. Well, they were not planning rides the next day, so I played my birthday card. Marlene said she would see what she could do.

It was arranged. My wife, to say the least, was not as thrilled as I was, but she was willing to be a good sport. February 25, up early, not my favorite thing to do on the weekend and especially not on my birthday. We headed out to the mule skinners’ barn to meet the infamous Buzzy Sproat, our guide Bobby and our mules. First off, never realized how big mules were; secondly, found out that “mule skinners” have nothing to do with skinning mules … whewww!

Buzzy, a classic paniol’o, arrives in black chaps and black cowboy hat … handsome dude, leaving us with a great sense of security, we were with the real McCoy. The lovely Marlene asked what kind of cheese we wanted in our sandwich and if we wanted ham or turkey—maybe food should not be the most important aspect in my life.

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“Saddle up, kids!” Off we go.

Not so far away, we come to the head of the trail … oh s**t!: 1,700 feet above sea level, 26 switchbacks (twists and turns), rock ledges with drops way too far down to survive.

Had to keep a stiff upper lip. The wife is freaking, faith in your mule is what you need; this is not for the faint of heart.

OK, settled in now, the mule knows what to do … absolutely breathtaking ride down, sweaty palms all the way, but we made it.

I have known the story of the leper colony for many years, now it becomes real. In Hawaii, at the turn of the 20th century, 5,000 lepers existed on Moloka’i. Father Damien came from Belgium in 1873 to help them add some dignity to a way of life that is difficult to fathom. Today about 39 lepers are left in Moloka’i, the youngest is about 65 years old. The Parks Department now runs the village and will keep it going as long as it is needed. Leprosy is controlled in this country, however the village is a throwback to a time long ago, and very self-contained. The only way you can visit is if a resident invites you, or if you go on the tour. We traveled around in an old yellow school bus, a tour around the village and a ride to the old side, where Father Damien’s church still stands. You could only imagine the pain and the suffering. I hope prayers helped.

Bobby then took us out to a most beautiful point; actually, it is where the boats anchored to put the lepers ashore. Because the boats’ crews were afraid to get close, not to mention that the sea is very rough in this cove, the patients had swim—if they could.

It made us stop and think how lucky we are on so many levels.

After this contemplation, we were taken to the picnic area, serene and beautiful. I was hungry, and the sandwich at this point

was delish, my culinary needs were taken care of. After lunch, it was back to our trusty mules. I’m happy to report that the ride is much easier going up; perhaps we had bonded with our four-legged friends.

Back at the Lodge, birthday message: “Out on the point, watching sunset.” Ya gotta love it. It’s Sunday night on Moloka’i, everyone comes for the entertainment, singing, hula, good friends getting together. Dinner in the dining room, and to my surprise— “guess who’s coming to dinner,” cowboy hats and all—Buzzy and his son Sa’le; Marlene had to work, though she kept tabs on us.

Also joining us were their friends April and John Torres. John is a local artist and was presenting Buzzy with a portrait. John was also kind enough to present me with a painting for my birthday. Thank you, John. It seemed like we were adopted into the family. I sense Moloka’i is like that. It is called the “Friendly Island.”

The best part was the Talk Story between these two old friends—soldier stories from the time they spent in Europe. I have listened to many from my father, who was in Italy during World War II, never thinking I’d be listening to similar from two buddies in Moloka’i.

In the end, I did get my exotic birthday trip. Moloka’i is awesome.

www.muleride.com www.molokairanch.com

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sustainable extras

Surfing: Now mainstream around the world.

Ollie on the West Side of Kaua’i

Sunrise Shells: A favorite pastime here is to collect them early in the morning.

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Photograph: Steve Knox

living in hawaii

Plumeria: In bloom now, they are used to make lei’s and the bonus, if you are anywhere near a plumeria tree, which isn’t difficult because they are everywhere, the air smells incredibly sweet.

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farmers markets Kaua’i Farmers’ Markets MONDAY West Kauai Agricultural Association Poipu Road and Cane Haul Road, Poipu 8 a.m.

Koloa Ball Park (Knudsen) (Sunshine Markets) Maluhia Road, Koloa Noon Kukui Grove Shopping Center Lihue 3 p.m.

TUESDAY Kalaheo Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Papalina Road off Kaumualii, Kalaheo 3:30 p.m.

Wailua Homesteads Park (Sunshine Markets) Malu Road, Wailua 3 p.m.

Hawaiian Farmers of Hanale’i Waipa, Hanale’i 2 p.m.

WEDNESDAY Kapaa New Town Park (Sunshine Markets) Kahau Road, Kapaa 3 p.m.

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Gary Pacheco at Hanalei Saturday Market.

SATURDAY Kekaha Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Elepaio Road, Kekaha 9 a.m.

Waimea Hawaiian Homestead Farmers’ Market Mamalahoa Hwy., 2 miles east of Waimea town 7:30 a.m.

Hanalei Saturday Market Hanalei 9 a.m.–1:30 p.m.

Honokaa Farmers Market Honokaa town near Honokaa Trading Co. Hilo Farmers’ Market

Hawaii Island Farmers’ Markets

THURSDAY Hanapepe Park (Sunshine Markets) Old Hanapepe Town 3 p.m.

SATURDAY Keauhou Farmers Market Keauhou Shopping Center, Keauhou 8–11 a.m.

Kilauea Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Keneke off Lighthouse Road, Kilauea 4:30 p.m.

Waikoloa Village Farmers’ Market Waikoloa Community Church across from Waikoloa Elementary School 7:30 a.m.–1 p.m.

FRIDAY Vidinha Stadium (Sunshine Markets) Hoolako Road, Lihue 3 p.m.

North Kohala Across from Hawi Post Office, under banyan tree 7 a.m.–noon

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Wednesdays and Saturdays Corner of Mamo and Kamehameha Ave., downtown Hilo Saturdays, 8 a.m.–noon WEDNESDAY Naalehu Farmers’ Market Ace Hardware lawn 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

SUNDAY Pahoa Farmers’ Market Luquin’s/Akebono Theater parking lot 8 a.m.–3 p.m.

Makuu Farmers’ Market Keaau-Pahoa bypass road 8 a.m.–2 p.m.

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Volcano Farmers’ Market Cooper Center, Wright Rd., Volcano 6:30–9 a.m.

Manoa Marketplace Honolulu 7–11 a.m.

Oahu Farmers’ Markets

Waikiki Farmers’ Market Waikiki Community Center Parking Lot 7 a.m.–1 p.m.

MONDAYS Manoa Valley District Park (People’s Open Market) 2721 Kaaipu Avenue, Honolulu 6:45–7:45 a.m.

WEDNESDAYS Palolo Valley District Park (People’s Open Market) 2007 Palolo Avenue, Honolulu 6:30–7:30 a.m.

Makiki District Park (People’s Open Market) 1527 Keeaumoku Street, Honolulu 8:30–9:30 a.m.

Mother Waldron Park (People’s Open Market) 525 Coral Street, Honolulu 10:15–11 a.m.

City Hall Parking Lot Deck (People’s Open Market) Alapai & Beretania Street, Honolulu 11:45 a.m.–12:30 p.m.

Hawaii Kai Towne Center Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu 7:30 a.m.–3 p.m. .

TUESDAYS Waiau District Park (People’s Open Market) 98-1650 Kaahumanu Street, Pearl City 6:30–7:30 a.m.

Waipahu District Park (People’s Open Market) 94-230 Paiwa Street, Waipahu 8:15–9:15 a.m.

Wahiawa District Park (People’s Open Market) N. Cane & California Avenue, Wahiawa 10–11 a.m.

Mililani District Park (People’s Open Market) 94-1150 Lanikuhana Avenue, Mililani 11:45 a.m.–12:30 p.m.

Fort Street near Wilcox Park Honolulu (in front of Macy’s) 8 a.m.–2 p.m.

Old Stadium Park (People’s Open Market) 2237 South King Street, Honolulu 8:15–9:15 a.m.

Queen Kapiolani Park (People’s Open Market) Monsarrat and Paki Street, Honolulu 10–11 a.m.

Hawaii Kai Towne Center Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu 7:30 a.m.–3 p.m.

THURSDAYS Waimanalo Beach Park (People’s Open Market 41-741 Kalanianaole Highway, Waimanalo 7:15–8:15 a.m.

Kailua District Park (People’s Open Market) 21 South Kainalu Drive, Kailua 9–10 a.m.

Kaneohe District Park (People’s Open Market) 45-660 Keaahala Road, Kaneohe 10:45–11:45 a.m.

Manoa Marketplace Honolulu 7–11 a.m.

The Kailua Thursday Night Farmers’ Market Kailua town 5–7:30 p.m. behind Longs on Kailua Road

FRIDAYS Halawa District Park (People’s Open Market) 99-795 Iwaiwa Street 7–8 a.m.

Ewa Beach Community Park (People’s Open Market) 91-955 North Road, Ewa Beach 9–10 a.m.

Pokai Bay Beach Park (People’s Open Market) 85-037 Pokai Bay Road, Waianae 11–11:45 a.m.

Fort Street near Wilcox Park Honolulu (In front of Macy’s) 8 a.m. –2 p.m.

Waikiki Farmers’ Market Waikiki Community Center Parking Lot 7 a.m. –1 p.m.

SATURDAYS Banyan Court Mall (People’s Open Market) 800 North King Street, Honolulu 6:15–7:30 a.m.

Kaumualii Street (People’s Open Market) at Kalihi Street, Honolulu 8:15–9:30 a.m.

Kalihi Valley District Park (People’s Open Market) 1911 Kam IV Road, Honolulu 10–10:45 a.m.

Salt Lake Municipal Lot (People’s Open Market) 5337 Likini Street, Honolulu 11:15a.m. –Noon Hawaii Kai Park-n-Ride (People’s Open Market) 300 Keahole Street, Honolulu 1–2 p.m.

North Shore Country Market at Sunset Sunset Beach Elementary School, Haleiwa 8 a.m. –2 p.m.

The Saturday Farmers’ Market at Kapiolani Community College Campus 4303 Diamond Head Road, Honolulu 7:30–11 a.m.

Waialua Farmers’ Market Waialua Sugar Mill 8:30 a.m. –Noon

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more markets Hawaii Kai Towne Center Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu 7:30 a.m. –3 p.m.

SUNDAYS Kapolei Community Park (People’s Open Market) 91-1049 Kamaaha Loop, Kapolei 7–8:30 a.m.

Royal Kunia Park-n-Ride (People’s Open Market) Kupuna Lp/Kupohi Street, Waipahu 9:30–11 a.m.

Waikele Community Park (People’s Open Market) Waipahu 11:30 a.m. –12:30 p.m.

The Mililani Sunday Farmers’ Market at Mililani High School 95-1200 Meheula Parkway, Mililani High School Parking Lot 8 a.m. –Noon

TUESDAY The Maui’s Fresh Produce Farmer’s Market Queen Kaahumanu Shopping Center (center stage area) Kaahumanu Avenue, Kahului 7 a.m. –4 p.m.

Pepito Valdez 298-4289 Maui Mall Farmers’ Market & Craft Fair Maui Mall, Kahului 7 a.m.–4 p.m.

Ms. Cynda Hearn 871-1307 Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road 8 a.m.–4 p.m.

Manoa Marketplace Honolulu 7–11 a.m.

WEDNESDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road 8 a.m.–4 p.m.

Country Market & Craft Fair Waimanalo Homestead Community Center 1330 Kalanianaole Hwy. 9 a.m.–4p.m.

Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai Hawaiian Motors parking lot (across from Honokowai Park) 7 a.m. –11 a.m.

Maui Farmers’ Markets

Maui Mall Farmers’ Market & Craft Fair Maui Mall, Kahului 7 a.m.–4 p.m.

MONDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road 8 a.m.–4 p.m.

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Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai Hawaiian Motors parking lot (across from Honokowai Park) 7–11 a.m.

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The Maui’s Fresh Produce Farmer’s Market Queen Kaahumanu Shopping Center (center stage area) Kaahumanu Avenue, Kahului 7 a.m.–4 p.m.

THURSDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road 8 a.m.–4 p.m.

FRIDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei Road 8 a.m. –4.00 p.m.

The Maui’s Fresh Produce Farmer’s Market Queen Kaahumanu Shopping Center (center stage area) Kaahumanu Avenue, Kahului 7 a.m.–4 p.m.

Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai Hawaiian Motors parking lot (across from Honokowai Park) 7 a.m.–11 a.m.

Maui Mall Farmers’ Market & Craft Fair Maui Mall, Kahului 7 a.m.–4 p.m.

SATURDAY Maui Swap Meet Puunene Avenue next to the Kahului Post Office 6 a.m.–1 p.m.

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ADVERTISER DIRECTORY Aurora Fund PO Box 565 Kilauea, HI 96754 808-828-0893 www.theaurorafoundation.org Bali Hai Realty, Inc Jack Baker Cell: 808-652-1936 Local: 808-826-7244 ext. 237 Toll Free: 808-404-5200 ext. 237 Email: jack@balihai.com www.balihai.com Bar Acuda Restaurant Bar @ 5 p.m.

Dinner @ 6 p.m.

Reservations: 808-826-7081 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy., Hanale’i, Kaua’i Closed Mondays www.restaurantbaracuda.com

Kau Hale Cottage Hawaiian Style w/Panoramic Views 808-639-3867 www.kauhalecottage.com

North Country Farms An Organic Family Farm And Tropical B&B Cottages www.northcountryfarms.com

Kilauea Fish Market 4270 Kilauea Rd. Kilauea, Kaua’i 808-828-6244 Mon.–Sat. 11 a.m.–8 p.m.

Papaya’s Natural Food & Café Organic Produce Vegetarian Café Kauai Village 4-831 Kuhio Hwy. Kapa’a, Kaua’i 808-823-0190 Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.-8 p.m.

Hanale’i 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy. Hanale’i, Kaua’i 808-826-0089 7 days 9 a.m.–8 p.m. www.papayasnaturalfoods.com

Kilauea Town Market 2474 Keneke St. Kilauea, Kaua’i 808-828-1512 Daily 8:30 a.m.–8 p.m.

KKCR Kauai Community Radio 808-826-7774 PO Box 825 Hanale’i, Kaua’i 96714 Listener Supported www.kkcr.org

Cake Clothing *Accessories * Gifts Kung Lung Center Kilauea, Kaua’i 7 days a week 808-828-6412

Koa Properties 808-651-1777 www.koakauai.com

Don Lazo Photography Interiors 808-826-1111

Pure Kauai 866-457-7873 www.purekauai.com

Hanale’i Dolphin Restaurant & Fish Market 5-5016 Kuhio Hwy. Hanale’i, Kaua’i 808-826-6113

Lola Pilar Art & Graphix PO Box 232 Kilauea, Kaua’i Cell: 808-635-4047 Lolapilart.com lolacooper@hotmail.com

Kauai Island Properties Holly Lazo Luxury Property Management 808-826-1111 Icing on the Cake 808-823-1210 www.icingonthecakekauai.com Kauai Authentic Farms CSA Homestead Plant Nursery Environmental Education John Parziale 808-651-6930 Beyond Organic…It’s Authentic

Namahana Nursery & Landscape Willie Shook Exotic Plants, Installation Consultation PO Box 232 Kilauea, Kaua’i 808-634-4047 Joan Namkoong Food Lovers Guide to Honolulu at your favorite book store

Po’ipu Beach Estates Terry P. Kamen Call for a Tour 808-651-0071 www.poipubeachestates@yahoo.com Slow Food Hawai’i Island Nancy Piianaia Nap2@flex.com Kaua’i Patrick Quinn Icingonthecake.Kauai@gmail.com O’ahu Laurie Carleson laurie@honoluluweekly.com

Strings & Things Ching Young Village Hanale’i, Kaua’i Yarn to Ukuleles 808-826-9633 The Wine Garden 4495 Puhi Road Lihu’e, Kaua’i Fine Wine, Vintage Port Hand-Rolled Kaua’i Cigars Tues.–Sat. 10 a.m.–6:30 p.m.

808-245-5766

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what is it & how do you eat it?

Rambuton (Nephelium lappaceum), although quite exotic in its appearance, it’s actually as common in the tropics as an apple is on the mainland.

The word rambut in the fruit name rambutan is Malay for hairy, referring to the spiky rind. Without the soft spines on the rind, the rambutan would resemble the lychee, which is in the same botanical family.

Look for a bright red color though there are some rambutan varieties that ripen a bright yellow or yellow with an orange blush.

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How to eat it: When we bring them back from the outdoor farmers’ market, we put them in a bowl, still attached to the stem. No reason, we just like how it looks. To eat this now cool refreshing fruit, you can cut gently a little ways into the skin, and then pop the jell-like fruit into your mouth. Suck off the fruit and discard the pit (don’t eat it, it’s bitter). Local style is to use your teeth to open the fruit; the spines are soft and won’t hurt you.

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