From India With Love

Global Adjustments

from

Love with

Reel-worthy Moments

Global Adjustments

from

Love with

Reel-worthy Moments

from

Love with

Reel-worthy Moments

Š Global Adjustments Services Pvt. Ltd. 2014 Conceptualised and Published by Global Adjustments Services Pvt. Ltd. 5, 3rd Main Road, RA Puram, Chennai 600028 Telefax: +91 44 24617902/ 03 Email: info@globaladjustments.com www.globaladjustments.com Editorial Team Ranjini Manian Yamini Vasudevan Shefali Ganesh Sethulakshmy Nayar Project Management & Design Prem Kumar Advertising & Circulation Anupama Arvind Sheeba Radhamohan Vyjayanthi Rajiv Amritha Suresh Shobana Sairaj Kumar Printed at Srikals Graphics, Chennai www.srikals.com ISBN: 978-81-909181-4-5 All India Copyright Š All rights reserved in any media. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement.

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Foreword

Before the days of ‘selfies’, there was something most precious and rare about photographs.

Those were the days of stands called tripods holding large cameras and steady hands that took the best shots. Film was expensive, equipment was bulky and setting up the camera to shoot a single photo could easily take thirty minutes.

Then, photography moved on to become a science, involving exposures that determined the quality of images – lens of all shapes and styles imitating animal features (such as fish eye lens) to capture 180 degree views emerged.

It was around this time that point-and-shoot cameras began to find their way into the hands of those eager to capture scenic landscapes, the smile of a bride or the first footsteps of a child. Even then, there were only around 18 or 36 photos that could be shot on a roll of film – and the wait for the pictures to be printed by a lab was always charged with excitement and anticipation.

The ‘i’ changed all this – iPads and iPhones create instant images with very little effort, as do the many digital cameras that are light to carry and easy to use. Photos are now shot and ‘shared’ within seconds, and saved in a space that is not to be seen.

Gone are the days of bulky photo albums – everything is now stored on a digital ‘cloud’, and shared with near and dear with the mere tap of a key or the touch of an onscreen button. The day of the ‘selfie’ is here, right in the palm of our hand.

Yet, printing images of a beautiful land on paper and interpreting them remains a passion of all mankind, bringing a smile to the face of the viewer when he/she turns to the next page. Now a funny painted camel, then dozens of overhanging people on transportations, here colours of nature that are inimitably gorgeous and there unforgettable faces of mankind.

This book is about those images – the images of India that expatriates have taken over the past 16 years, seeing a rare beauty through their unfamiliar eyes. This book is also about building bridges of understanding between man and his brother, on either shore. This book is actually about life. Life before and after the SELFIE. Hope you enjoy the moments of delight it offers you in your armchair, and that you also enjoy its call to travel to our land – and to take pictures of it. We welcome you as a guest, and send you back as a friend of India.

Team Culturama – India’s only free expatriate cultural magazine Team Global Adjustments – Organisers of the Annual Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition

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Contents

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Beauty

Captured here are some priceless images that tell you how the concept of ‘beauty’ can be interpreted in different forms.

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Celebrations

Festivals and special occasions abound in India, and each showcases a different aspect of the country’s traditions.

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Heart to Heart

Captured here are some moments of caring and sharing – after all, love is the common language that binds people from different lands.

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Here to There

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Bon Appetit

Travel takes on a new meaning in India – this is one country where the journey is as interesting as the destination.

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Uniquely India

A family that eats together stays together – and friends who eat together form memories for life. What better way to forge bonds across borders?

Sights and scenes that will leave you grinning, opening your eyes wide with surprise or shaking your head in disbelief – truly, it only happens in India.

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Introduction India is so full of contrast and variety that every place offers a new experience that can range from life-changing to heartwarming to humourous.

There’s a place that caters to every interest: history, culture, food, architecture, craftsmanship, spirituality, wildlife, trekking and scenery, rejuvenation, buzzing nightlife or rural tranquility and, of course, photography everywhere.

Photographs speak with an eloquence unmatched by words, and they give one the opportunity to contemplate an otherwise fleeting scene. A monastery terrace in Ladakh overlooking the vast silence of rugged snow-topped mountains; cane chairs and bone china cups on the lawns of a colonial bungalow amidst the rolling green hills of manicured tea gardens; the quirky delights of Nek Chand’s bangle people in Chandigarh; the explicit beauty of Khajuraho’s stone lovers; a rhino, armour plated, materialising from the dawn mist in Kaziranga – a few that showcase the essence of India.

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Beauty “We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure.

There is no end to the adventures that we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.”

– Jawaharlal Nehru (the first Prime Minister of Independent India) The word for beauty in ancient Indian language of Sanskrit is ‘shri’. It is also the name of Lakshmi, the Goddess of wealth, who is represented as a beautiful woman. Material beauty and spiritual wealth adorn India. The sight of sweeping terrains and turquoise-blue waters fight for attention with the smile of a young girl or the devout prayer of the faithful – there is beauty to be found in every corner of this land. So, open your eyes and head out – who knows what you might find?

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A Face to Remember

This little girl, a fisherman’s daughter, is what one would define as a natural beauty. She seems to be ready to break into a smile, her curly locks framing her elfin face – a princess in the making.

Photo: Magali Reynaud, France

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Catamaran Man

The turquoise blue waters of the Andamans are so beautiful that they can soothe many a weary eye. This fisherman is looking out for his daily catch, standing on a catamaran or a country boat. In the local language, the boat is called kattu-maram (literally translated to mean a makeshift arrangement made of logs tied together).

Photo: Cesare Pagani, Italy

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Room with a View

Meherangarh Fort in Jodhpur has many beautiful sights that make for a stunning photograph. This particular spot shows the stark beauty of the work of nature and that of men. One can imagine this pillared monument to have been the lookout point for the men on guard at the Fort.

Photo: Carles Berruez, Spain

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Here Comes the Bride

South Indian weddings are a grand affair, sometimes stretching across three days, with family and extended families coming together. The gorgeous bride here is dressed in traditional grandeur: with flowers in her hair, a garland around her neck, vintage ornaments woven into her head and a delicate bindi on her forehead. Rituals vary between communities, with the common one being the seven vows taken by the couple as they walk around a sacred fire.

Photo: Ben Bowling, USA

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It’s lonely at the Top

In the harsh landscapes of Ladakh, it is common to travel for miles without seeing another human, a dwelling or settlement. This lonely monastery set atop its own personal hillock presents a pretty picture. Unlike the rest of India, where towns are centered around a temple or mosque, Ladakh’s monasteries are situated far apart – and act more as beacons of hope than centres of revelry.

Photo: Chang, USA

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Pick of the Best

The rolling hills of the northeastern states and the slopes of the Eastern and Western Ghats in the South offer fertile ground for tea plantations. Tea picking is a skill and this young woman obviously enjoys her job. She is an example of simple living and high thinking, happy with herself.

Photo: Ingo Hofmaier, Austria

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Striking a Pose

Even deep in the wooded heart of India, there’s a sense of style and self-confidence.

This little fellow, on his way to the Pemayangste Monastery in Sikkim, presents a picture perfect postcard of beauty, as he stands twirling his umbrella with studied nonchalance.

Photo: Brian Jolley, USA

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Sunset Boulevard

It is mesmerising to watch the slow rhythm of the Chinese fishing nets on the shores of Fort Kochi in Kerala. It is believed that the nets were introduced to these parts by a Chinese explorer – hence the name. As the sun sets and their catch have been sold, the fishermen wind up their nets and the stones come to a rest, balancing the net.

Photo: Deborah Miller, USA 19

Rites of Passage

There is a subtle magnificence in this picture of a young Sikh offering his prayers in the holy lake around the Golden Temple.

The orange turban, called phatka, symbolises selflessness, while the kirpan or ceremonial dagger tied to his turban stands for ‘compassion, honour and mercy’. The kirpan is one of the five Ks of Sikhism, the others being kesh (uncut hair), kanga (wooden comb), kara (metal bracelet) and kachera (cotton shorts).

Photo: Ninna Marie Hogedal, Denmark

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Slice of Paradise

If your idea of paradise is a tropical lagoon with coconut trees and drifting boats, the backwaters of Kerala are an ideal fit for you. The kettuvellam boats, originally used for transporting agricultural produce, have been converted to houseboats to enable tourism in the region. It is a wonderful way to experience life on these waterways, where much of the local trade takes place.

Photos: Lucas Graf, USA

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Balanced Diet

It’s snack time for these wild goats or the Himalayan tahrs as they steady themselves on a grassy precipice of the mountains. The people in this region use goat’s milk and desserts made of the milk are a specialty.

Photo: Ben Bowling, USA

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Reflections of Faith

The courtyard of the Jamma Masjid in Delhi, on an idyllic morning, sees the faithful relaxing in front of the water body. This mosque, the largest in India, is a striking reminder of India’s Mughal connections. The name jamma is derived from the word jummah, which refers to the Friday noon prayers of Muslims. This courtyard can hold up to 25,000 worshippers.

Photo: Carles Berruezo, Spain

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Celebrations “A year has 365 days but India has 366 festivals.”

– Mark Twain (American author) In India, cultural activities and festivals dictate our way of life. The ethnicity and the religions bring in an extent of diversity that is not seen anywhere in the world. Rarely will you find an Indian who knows it all. There’s never a dull day, and learning is truly a lifelong passion in this country. One of the best forms of small talk in India is to discuss the variations of the same festival. While one section will attribute the origin of a festival to a particular mythological figure, another part of India will fiercely beg to differ, insisting on a different origin. In the end, they will mutually agree to disagree and share high-calorie, deep-fried sweets and savouries in great camaraderie. India is an example to the world that every day is a celebration. We celebrate differences.

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Photo: Alan Dougans, Australia

A Rainbow in My Hands

Holi, also known as the festival of colours, celebrates the arrival of spring or vasanth, by drenching friends (and foes) with brightly coloured water. Spring is associated with new life and energy, and throwing colours brings out the child in people .

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Photo: Elmarie Blignaut, South Africa

Jungle Rhythm

Pulikalli, literally translated to mean ‘tiger dance’, is a popular folk art form of Kerala that is much loved by tourists. Artistes are known for their rigorous practice and extreme involvement during the performance, and other folk dances. The dances are performed during the annual Onam festival, when the state welcomes back the spirit of its benevolent demon king Mahabali, during whose reign the region was said to be a veritable utopia.

Photo: Yana Fejova, Ukraine

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Festive Cheer Festive occasions are celebrated with a large dose of laughter and food – and singing and dancing in some cases. This image perfectly reflects the spirit, and you can practically hear the drum beats and feel the joy of revelry as seen on this boy’s face.

Festivals also bring about a sense of cheerful bonhomie, where being a witness makes one a participant too.

Photo: Andre Alphonso, Australia

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Do the Bhangra An Indian wedding is seen as a big reason for celebration because it is not just about the coming together of the bride and groom but also the union of two families. Planned and impromptu dancing and singing en masse are a part and parcel of the wedding, whether on the streets or inside a hall. As everything goes in India, the more the merrier!

Photo: Thorsten Vieth, Germany

Horsing Around A traditional folk art form of Tamil Nadu, the Poikaal Kuthirai is literally named after what it represents – ‘a horse with false legs’.

Artistes hold the ‘body’ as they dance around, and they wear colourful pants to represent the ‘legs’ of the horse. These are usually part of a group performance, and are accompanied by artistes on stilts and other dancers.

The performances are prominently associated with temple festivals.

Photo: Diana Greiger, Germany

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The Amazing Race Seen here is a ‘snake boat’ that is unique to Kerala. These boats are made from specially treated wood, and are used for the hugely popular boat races along the backwaters and rivers of Kerala. The crew practise hard to participate in the prestigious Nehru Trophy Race held during the Onam season – an event that is also a tourist favourite.

Photo: Elaine Wood, Australia

Trunk Call

Temple festivals can’t possibly get grander than the Thrissur Pooram in Kerala. The annual event involves, among other things, a mindboggling number of splendidly decked out, perfectly trained elephants and their mahouts performing a complicated ritual with coloured umbrellas. The decibel level of the music is joltingly high. Olympic gymnasts can’t stand as beautifully as the bare-bodied performers on the elephants. The celebrations end with a dazzling fireworks display.

Photo: Monica Bradley, USA 32

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Photo: Tineke Sysmans, Belgium 34

Photo: Darlene Armijo, USA

Pattern Power

Patterns drawn around dots are symbolic of circumventing the problems of life. Painted prayers are drawn on freshly washed thresholds using fine rice powder to welcome good luck. The designs can range from a few simple lines to big, intricate patterns. Apart from the sound principle of geometry contained in the pattern, they are also eco-friendly and provide food for ants. In the North, these motifs are called rangoli and are made with coloured powder. In the South, they are made with rice flour and are called kolam.

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Mother of My Heart Christianity is believed to have been brought to India by Saint Thomas over 2,000 years ago, before it went to Europe and the United States. Over the years, religious practices have been influenced by local customs, such as idols of the Virgin Mary being draped in a sari and ‘processions’, in the style of Hindu temple festivals, taken out on festive days.

Photo: Elia Atzori, Italy

All at Sea Ganesh Chaturthi, the birthday of Lord Ganesh, is a huge event in many parts of India, particularly in the state of Maharashtra. Idols of the elephant-headed God in every conceivable pose and size are specially made for this festival. The image is worshipped for a fixed period (usually nine days), at the end of which the idols are ceremoniously immersed in a river, sea or any other water body. The immersion of the idols is said to symbolise the circle of creation and dissolution.

Photo: Basia Kruzewska, USA

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Revering Rivers The Ganga, the lifeline of millions in North India, is revered and worshipped as a Goddess. Evening prayers are held regularly along the river banks, and special rites known as the Ganga arati are performed. These are attended by large gatherings and are a big tourist attraction to witness mass spirituality, the singing and dancing showcasing an unshakable faith. The human body is made up of 70 percent of water and what we celebrate here is man’s connection with water as a life source.

Photo: Thorsten Vieth, Germany

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Heart to Heart “In India, we celebrate the commonality of major differences; we are a land of belonging rather than that of blood.”

– Shashi Tharoor (Indian politician) Setting foot in a new country is like taking the first, tentative steps into a new home or family. There is a cloud of not knowing that hangs over you. At such times, a kind word, a soft smile and a timely hug provide the much-needed sense of acceptance and belonging. This is the point when the ‘other’ becomes ‘one of us’. And in India, where the reigning sentiment is one of athithi devo bhava (the guest is God), visitors become guests and then friends with ease.

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Three Is Company

Every stranger is just a friend you haven’t met yet – the phrase is more than explained by this image, shot in the picturesque environs of Ladakh. What is the topic of conversation that made all three of them so happy? We want to be part of it, too!

Photo: Alex Windsor , UK 41

Joined at the Sip

Three cheers!

Indian summers are incomplete without the ubiquitous tender coconuts. These natural thirst quenchers can be found at every street corner of India. Watch the vendor hack the top away with his sickle and put in a straw for the sweet water – made all the sweeter when you share it.

The Indian national flag has three colours: saffron stands for selfless leadership, white for purity of thought, and, if these two are followed, growth or progress – represented by green – automatically follows.

Photo: Elaine Wood, Australia

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Photo: Ron Potisk, USA

On a Wing and a Prayer

Children learn best through imitation – and their innocent minds find no reason to distinguish between people of different races or ethnicities. This child, who is probably accompanied by her nanny, is literally getting a crash course on Indian spirituality. Also, by easily sitting on the floor and joining her hands, she has demonstrated what assimilation without prejudices is all about.

Photo: Ran Levy, Israel 43

Show and Tell

In most parts of India, people are more than obliging to strike a pose for you, especially in rural parts, where cameras are a novelty and photographs are still considered taboo (there are superstitions that being photographed might shorten the subject’s life span). Taking the time to show the image is a great economic class leveller, connecting us as part of the human race.

Photo: Kerstin Vieth, Germany

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Say It With Flowers

Wisdom is the ornament that the elderly wear throughout India. Artificial procedures that mask age are counter-intuitive in this culture. Like the red hibiscus flower used for dĂŠcor, worship and as hair beauty treatment, the man or woman who has walked the planet is seen as a multi-faceted member of the family.

Photo: Tineke Sysmans, Belgium

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Say a Little Prayer for Me

In the holy city of Varanasi, a woman chants some sacred verses to her chosen God. The broken coconut smeared with vermillion is a symbol of breaking one’s ego. The flowers, lit camphor and incense are the offerings that invade the other senses of sight and smell, with which the devotee immerses in the divine.

Photo: Chang, USA

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Friendships sans Borders

Children are the best agents of change, as they have within them the ability to see and accept all things different and distinctive without reservations. In India, children are part of all gatherings and are encouraged to be seen and heard. Yet they defer to elders and come with a natural sense of decorum. The camaraderie reflected on these young faces proves the adage Vasudaiva Kutumbakam or ‘the world is one family’.

Photo: Anne Roberts, USA 47

Lunch Actually

Monks and merchants are both part of the Indian legacy. Here the tete-a-tete between a budding monk and an aspiring global citizen is a symbol of the shrinking world. Don’t miss the young girl’s expression that looks like she is guarding the four-tiered steel lunch box or dabba.

Photo: Ran Levy, Israel

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Everyone Needs a Hug

Lean on Me

The other side of being blessed by temple elephants is being loved by them. In the elephant camps of Kerala, Nilgiris or Jaipur, giving the elephant a bath by the river is a mammoth task (pun unintended), one the local mahout is happy to share with eager hands.

On the foothills of the Himalayas, this senior monk shares a tender moment with his young protégé, who holds his mentor in a tender hug. Boys are usually sent to the monastery at a very young age, sometimes, when they are less than 10 years old. The gurukul system of India is all about ‘living in the abode of the master’, serving him while absorbing his teachings.

Photo: Ingo Hofmaier, Austria

Photo: Jon Moellebro, Australia

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Bon Appetit “Ask not what you can do for your country. Ask what’s for lunch.”

– Orson Welles (American actor, screenwriter and producer) The food culture of any country can tell you a lot about its people. And in India, gastronomy occupies pride of place in people’s lives. Even before a meal is finished, talk about what the next meal should comprise of dominates the conversation. Here, replenishing food and drink is a way of showing great care and concern to the guest. When planning for festive occasions and weddings, the menu is carefully planned, revised several times over, and the handed over with ceremony to the cook or caterer. Each region boasts a unique food tradition – defined as much the history and culture of the people, as it is by the meat, vegetables and spices prominent in the region. Little wonder that this land is also a gastronomic paradise!

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A Well-rounded Meal The thali, meaning plate, is a balanced diet of protein, carbhohydrates, vitamins and fibre. Little cups filled with different accompaniments to rice or breads are served together. There is a method to eating the contents – for example, ghee can’t be added to yoghurt. Even Indians need a local guide by the side – for when we travel from state to state, we are just as clueless as an expat.

Photo: Francois Daniele, France

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Pick-me-up

Teashops are ubiquitous in India – here, you can have intense political conversations or bond with locals over chai. Wayside lean-to’s are common in all parts of the country, selling tea that is often flavoured with spices such as cardamom and ginger.

Each region in India has its own variation of the lifesaving brew – such as Mumbai’s ‘cutting chai’, which is so strong that one can only drink half a glass. It is also common practice to pour hot tea on to a saucer and cool it before drinking.

Photo: Jean Michel Tammam, France 54

By the Cup

Darjeeling, once a favoured summer getaway, is now known worldwide for its tea. Find a special spot, relax and sip on this aromatic beverage – a guaranteed way to beat stress and unwind after a long day.

Photo: Jon Moellebro, Australia

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Like Grandma Makes It

The grinding stone has almost acquired antique status in India. It has been replaced by electric mixers and grinders – but nothing can beat the flavour of spices and condiments freshly ground by hand, or of hand-pounded rice cooked over an open fire.

Photo: Sue Taylor, UK

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Bhang for the Buck Holi, the festival of colours, is a time for bhang – a drink prepared from the leaves and buds of the cannabis plant!

The mild intoxicant is dispensed freely, and everyone turns a blind eye to the drinkers’ antics – all in the spirit of fun that the festival signifies.

Photo: Ben Bowling, USA 57

Cut above the Rest

Hand-drawn carts that dot the perimeter of beaches in South India carry strips of cucumbers and sour green mangoes. The fruit or vegetable is skillfully cut into even slices with a few swipes of a knife and then arranged neatly. Especially popular during the summer months, the slices may be dipped in a mixture of salt and chilli powder before they are served.

Photo: Alex, UK 58

Sugar, Spice, Everything Nice

The Indian version of mom-and-pop stores, neighbourhood kiranas like these stock up on all basic essentials – from lemon tea to laundry detergent. The best part about these stores is the strong personal relationship they maintain with regular customers – which is why they remain in business despite the advent of big superstores Photo: Cesare Pagani, Italy From the frying pan‌

Indian crispies are sun-dried and primarily made from rice and sago. They are spiced up with green chillies and salt as preservative, and, at times, food colouring is added.

When fried, these become five times bigger in volume. Be warned, these yummy treats can be quite addictive!

Photo: J.F. Vial, France

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Food for the Gods Offering food for the Gods has special significance, because, in India, every day is a thanksgiving. Sweet and spicy, made with rice, fruit and condiments, these are made specially in kitchens housed within the temples or in the devotees’ homes and then offered to the Gods. The food that is thus sanctified is called prasad and is partaken by devotees – with gratitude and without criticism.

Photo: Christèle Gauthier, France

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Happy Meal Dosas – round lentil pancakes – are a popular choice as breakfast items or tea-time snacks.

This crisp, sizzling delight, served straight from the pan, is enough to whet your appetite and make your mouth water. This little boy is trying to eat the dosa without dirtying his hands!

Photo: Silvia Ricanek, Germany

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Too Many Cooks?

Any domestic celebrations – weddings, naming ceremonies, even death anniversaries – involve a communal meal with relatives and friends. To prepare the required number of dishes, in the required quantities, cooks are hired. Special, gigantic cauldrons and utensils are used and wood fires stoked for such occasions. (And no, too many cooks do not spoil the sambhar or daal!)

Photo: Ingrid de Saint-Ours, Germany

Get Them Young

The spicy chaat may not be an ideal snack for the little one, but she does look eager to try it! In many cases, it is not uncommon for parents to introduce varied flavours in tiny doses to their children from a very young age.

Photo: Dany, USA

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Up for Grabs

Vegetables of all colours and sizes will beckon to even those who do not favour a herbivorous diet. Hole-in-the-wall shops like this one are popular haunts for the discerning buyer – they are usually the best places to pick up fresh produce at bargain prices.

Photo: Silvia Ricanek, Germany

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Patriotic Flavour

Made to Order

The white (coconut) and orange (onion) chutneys and the green of the banana leaf come together in a perfect metaphor for the Indian flag. The chutneys are commonly served as accompaniments with South Indian snacks, such as this plate of puttu or steamed rice cakes.

Boiled and spiced groundnuts, puffed rice, lentil crisps, chillies and tomatoes – pick what you want and the mix is tossed into a large steel container and given a few turns with a ladle, then spooned out onto a plate and served with a twist of lime and a few sprigs of corriander. Just the way you want it.

Photos: Gemmarie Venkatramani, The Philippines

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Here to There “Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow.”

– Anita Desai (Indian novelist) People say that Indian Gods bless the travellers as they somehow make it from one point to another, all in one piece. The truth is that we have an unwritten code of behaviour that makes us understand each other in unfathomable ways.

There is no better way to explore India than by wandering through its many channels of transport – lucky for you, there are plenty of options. This section goes from natural to man-made machines that go from here to there.

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Room for More How many children can you fit into an Indian auto? The answer is always: one more!

Photo: Mary Kay Fallbeck, USA 68

Watching the World Go By

Did you know that the Indian rail system is the world’s longest? There is a sense of nostalgic romance connected to a train ride and it’s always about eating different delicacies along the way. The old joke about the 9.30 p.m express that showed up at 8.25 is that it was yesterday’s train.

Don’t worry, this has changed now.

Photo: Olivia Taghioff, Sweden

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Just Deserts

This family came to manufacture luxury cars in India, and took back the memory of a luxury camel safari. The scariest part of a camel ride is when the camel rises off the ground, forelegs first followed by the hind legs. For a real-life roller coaster ride, despite all that padding on the humps, try the camel.

Photo: Elena Eder, Italy 70

Brand Ambassador

For many, the Ambassador car is regarded a symbol of old India. Made in India for Indian roads, the Amby, as it was fondly known, was once the preferred choice for government officials. Changing times and tastes led to the phasing out of the Amby, and it is now seen only in old photo albums.

Photo: Elaine Wood, Australia

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Ride with Me

Adjusting in India is moving as far back in the seat as possible, to accommodate a canine friend. The rules for the road seem to apply only to the human driver who has his safety helmet on.

Photo: David S. Nevill, USA

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Pilgrim’s Progress

When devotees undertake a spiritual journey, they often make the journey on foot – and sometimes, the use of footwear is also avoided. This is usually a part of their prayer, and the test of physical endurance is one of the many (albeit intangible) offerings made by the devotee to his/her favoured deity.

Photo: Tobias Schmidt, Germany

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It Takes two to tanga

Horse carts, called tangas, are a popular mode of transport in older cities and towns such as Mysore or Lucknow. The tangas ferry people and lightweight goods, but only within the town’s limits owing to their slow pace. These days, tangas are popular choices at weddings – they are used to carry the groom to the venue.

Photo: Ferrer Fany, France

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Bank on It

Varanasi, one of the most holy cities of India, derives much of its spiritual importance from the fact that it lies alongside the Ganga, a river that is venerated as a Goddess. Walk along the ghats (paved river banks with steps to access the river) or take a boat ride along the Ganga – a dip in the river is said to absolve one of his/her sins, while dissolving the ashes of the departed will assure the soul of passage to heaven.

Photo: Lucia Nodari, Italy

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Cycle and Carriage

The rickshaw is like an enlarged tricycle with an optional rooftop that makes it like the basic version of a carriage. The vehicle runs on a basic pedal system, although recent years have seen motorised versions on the roads as well. The rickshaw is a common means of transport for short distances, and is most often used to ferry children to and from school.

Photo: Elmarte Blignaut, South Africa

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Balancing Act

It is no easy task to take on four people in a vehicle meant for two, but this driver does so with ease. And to ensure that his view is not obstructed, the girl in front has to make sure that she leans forward the entire ride!

Photo: Martin, USA

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No One Left Behind There is probably no ticket needed to ride this makeshift cab, but in some towns and villages, vehicles like these are used to ferry people across short distances. And when the need arises, people are willing to sacrifice comfort to make way for more.

Photo: Philippe Armand, Canada

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Cart Attack

Now here’s a case where the roles are flipped! Look carefully and you will spot an Indian taking a picture of the expat riding the cart! Riding a camel cart is very different from riding a bullock cart as the system of yoking is much more complicated – and we must say, the lady is doing the job with finesse. You might often see these camel-drawn carts on the roads, jostling with the traffic – stick your hand out and ask for a short ride!

Photo: Silva Paananen, Finland

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Whistle Blowing

Amidst India’s massive railway network, considered the fourth largest in the world, are these ‘toy trains’. A nickname for the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway and listed as a World Heritage site by the UNESCO, it offers a breathtaking view of the Himalayan range. The other ‘toy train’, also recognised by UNESCO, is the Nilgiri Mountain Railway in Tamil Nadu.

Photo: Jean Michel, France 80

Power of Thought

India is a magical land. To get from here to there, if nothing else works, why not try the power of the mind and some levitation?!

Photo: Darlene Armijo, USA

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Uniquely India “In India, even the most mundane of inquiries have a habit of ending this way.

There may be two answers, there may be five, a dozen or a hundred; the only thing that is certain is that all will be different.”

– Slowly Down the Ganges by Eric Newby The phrase ‘It happens only in India’ is oft-repeated and is even a well-known regional song. This sentiment is accompanied by frustration, pride, surprise and even humour, but it always manages to convey the essence of a land that is a study in contrasts. From magnificently bedecked elephants to roadside dentists, cycles that carry thrice their volume to goats dressed up in woolens, there is something for everyone.

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Roadside Remedies

India’s roadside doctors may have no degrees, but they sure have a cure for healing broken bones, treating body pain and fixing broken teeth. Sardar Chiman Singh does his ‘root canal’ treatment on a patient as passers-by watch. The toothless can also avail of prosthetic jaw sets in all shapes and sizes!

Photo: Deborah Miller, USA

Showtime, Folks!

The elephant has long been a valued asset of kings and temples in India. These gentle giants are showcased during religious festivals, often elaborately accoutered, bejewelled or painted like this one during the annual Elephant Festival of Jaipur. Did you know that the elephant tusk was used not just as carved ivory showpieces but also as a medicinal balm for curing mumps?

Photo: Darlene Armijo, USA 85

Hidden from View

Public display of affection is not common in India, and Indians are uncomfortable with casual acts like draping an arm around someone of the opposite sex. This picture, taken in a park, shows how the rain can bring out the romance in most people – and enables them to find unique ways to beat social constraints.

Photo: Ann Cambier, UK 86

Same but Different

The pumpkin is a nutritious vegetable that is very popular in South India. It is also crushed to the ground, after it has been injected with red kumkum powder, to ward off the evil eye. However different the West may be from India, the similarities exist. After all, it’s all about pumpkins.

Photo: Diana Grieger, Germany

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All Dolled Up Lord Shiva is often depicted as having blue skin, as the colour stands for infinity like the sky and the oceans. He has a cobra wrapped around his neck – a symbol of conquering one’s ego, and the river Ganges – symbolising the flow of spiritual knowledge – adorns his head. In this picture, this man in a carnival has chosen to represent the Ganges with a blonde, blue-eyed doll!

Photo: Monica Bradley, USA

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Eco-friendly Measures

Solar energy is optimally utilised by the dhobis or washermen of India. In most towns of India through which a river flows, there is usually a ghat or river bank that is designated as the dhobi ghat. It is easy to find these, with the steps covered by the washed clothes that are neatly spread out for a quick dry. The dhobi’s little boys watch over the saris – each sari measures six yards.

Photo: Mary K. Fallbeck, USA

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Moo(w) away!

This gardener has developed a resourceful way to make his job of mowing the lawn easier. The bulls yoked to the grass cutter pull along the man and his machine across the lawn in an effortless lawn-mowing process! The bull is worshipped as Nandi, the vehicle of Lord Shiva in India.

Photo: Khahn Hoang, USA 90

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Service with a View

This ingenious portable salon is sure to have a roaring business, as it can lure the visitors who come to the ancient fort behind it. Equipped with water, brushes, lotions and towels, too, the salon offers a quick make-over for the man who needs it – and a reasonable price, too!

In India, hairdressers go the extra mile of throwing in a head and shoulder massage.

Photo: Mary K. Fallbeck, USA

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On A Colourful Note

These steps on the banks of the Ganga at Varanasi are painted in dizzy shades of orange and teal, lending a perfect backdrop to this shot. The goat in its striped sweater seems oblivious to the world, as it basks in the early morning sun and watches the world going by.

Photo: Anthony Walker, Australia

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Face Out

What more can we say for this picture that speaks not a thousand, but ten thousand, words! One thing we can add is that the moustache is a symbol of manhood in India. In the Sikh community and parts of the Rajasthani community, facial hair is considered uber cool.

Photo: Emma Horne, UK 94

Push Over

Where else but in India will you see a group of men trying to push a plane? It’s instances like these that have given the corporate world the term jugaad, which means to innovate with the resources available.

Engine problem? So what if it’s not a car? Same principle, only more people. Simple!

Photo: Emmanuel Mancion, France

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India under the cultural lens

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Culturama (and At A Glance, as it was previously known) is well known for the photographs that lend life to its stories. These photos are largely sourced from the entries sent in to the Annual Beautiful India Photo Competition over the past 16 years.

So, little wonder that when we were casting around for an idea for a coffee table book to mark the 17th Photo Competition, the idea was for a book centered on these amazing pictures.

My heartfelt thanks to the many expatriates who came, saw and became a part of India, and captured their memories in priceless photographs – the ones included in this book are but a fraction of the several hundred photos we have collected over these years.

To Team Culturama – Prem Kumar, Yamini Vasudevan, Shefali Ganesh and Sethulakshmy Nayar – for their tireless efforts to take this book from conception to reality.

I also raise a toast to our Fundraising Team – Anupama Arvind, Sheeba Radhamohan, Vyjayanthi Rajiv, Amritha Suresh and Shobana Sairaj Kumar – for their hard work and dedication to the project.

To our sponsors and advertisers – thank you for being part of this beautiful work.

G. Venket Ram, famed photographer and Culturama’s Advisory Board member, created the camera icon for the 200th issue of the magazine (June 2012), which we have used across this book at the start of each category. I thank him for his beautiful contribution.

Ranjini Manian, Editor-in-Chief of Culturama Founder & CEO of Global Adjustments

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