Culturama August

culturama your cultural gateway to india

Shape shifters 18 years of Culturama’s content goes from print to digital at culturama.in

Pot shots Journeying through Kumhar Gram, Delhi’s largest potter’s colony

August 2013 Volume 4, Issue 6

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Dear readers Shape Shifters. This particular phrase caught our imagination at Culturama because it seemed to work on so many levels with our August issue. For one, we are proud, elated, and quite overwhelmed that 18 years of Culturama’s content that we have painstakingly and lovingly put together is going to be available online – www.culturama.in. When Ninestars, a leader in digital content solutions based out of Bengaluru, approached us for a partnership, we jumped at it. What began as a simple conversion of hard-copy content to the more viable soft-copy version then grew into a fabulous relationship with the company that led to the Culturama portal, and now, has extended into giving us a breath of fresh air with a new design template to the way we present content, starting this issue. For Culturama, with the new masthead, new logo, new design and a brand new avatar making baby steps into the digital world, that is some Shape Shifting!

So we decided to bring that element into the stories we chose this month too. Our In Focus personality, the vivacious Raageshwari, has been quite the trailblazer in the music industry, continuing to change the shape of how we perceive and listen to music. Our A to Z is about the 26 things India has contributed to improve the shape of the world. The Picture Story, on the potter’s colony in Delhi is literally about shaping beautiful realities from raw earth, and a gentle reminder that it is, truly, all in our hands. Our Seeing India column traces the shifting geographies of the River Cauvery, popularly known as the Ganges of the South, and the other story on Acres Wild in Coonoor brings to light the importance of listening to our changing environment.

The Holistic Living story this month is about shaping our inner selves to meet and greet conflict in our lives, while Spotlight is on Buddhism, reminding us that Buddha’s message continues to resonate through the shifting sands of time.

And finally, Shape Shifters as the theme for the 66th year of India’s independence. India has donned so many different hats over the years that sometimes we need to peel through the layers to see who the real India is. She has been the oldest civilisation, the youngest nation, an emerging economy, the world’s biggest democracy, most populated, corrupt and unpredictable, mystical and wise; so many more epithets could be used, and they would probably fill an entire book! But who is the real India that defies these shape shifting descriptions?

After 18 years of interpreting India and her many nuances, for us, India is simply peace. It remains the only civilisation that has never invaded another nation. It remains the fount of eternal knowledge and wisdom. And it remains the nation that gave the world a powerful word in an equally powerful language – Shanti for peace in Sanskrit. If you look deeply enough, patiently enough, quietly enough, you will hear this word resonate through all of India’s stories, old and new, past and present, real and imagined.

Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief

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Credits

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Original Cover Image Marcel van Mourik, The Netherlands

Letters to the editor Dear Editor,

Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian Consultant Editor Praveena Shivram Business Head Sheeba Radhamohan Editorial Coordinator Shefali Ganesh Senior Designer Prem Kumar Consultant Designers 2adpro Circulation Manager Vijayan R Advertising Bengaluru Mukundan T Chennai Dhiviya M Delhi/NCR Preeti Bindra, Ruchika Srivastava Mumbai/Pune Farah Bakshay, Rachana Sinha Chennai (Headquarters) 5, 3rd Main Road, R A Puram, Chennai – 600028 Telefax +91-44-24617902 Email culturama@globaladjustments.com Bengaluru 7/2, Edward Road, Off Cunningham Road, Bengaluru – 560052 Tel +91-80-41267152 Email culturamablr@globaladjustments.com Delhi-NCR Level 4, Augusta Point, DLF Golf Course Road, Sector-53, Gurgaon – 122002 Tel +91-124-4354236 Email del@globaladjustments.com Mumbai Rustom Court, 2nd Floor, Dr. Annie Besant Road, Worli, Mumbai – 400030 Tel +91-22-66104191/92 Email mum@globaladjustments.com Pune CTS No. 37/1, Bund Garden Road, Next to Jehangir Hospital, Pune – 411001 Mobile +91-9545453023 Email pune@globaladjustments.com To subscribe to this magazine, write to circulation@globaladjustments.com or access it online at www.culturama.in Published and owned by Ranjini Manian at #5, 3rd Main Road, Raja Annamalai Puram, Chennai – 600028, and printed by K Srinivasan of Srikals Graphics Pvt Ltd at #5, Balaji Nagar, 1st Street, Ekkattuthangal, Chennai – 600032 Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian Disclaimer Views and opinions expressed by writers do not necessarily reflect the publisher’s or the magazine’s.

Errata In the April issue of the magazine, SMS column, page 16, the artist of the Gond Art Image is Bhajju Shyam, and not www.saffrontree.org as mentioned. We regret the error.

“I enjoy reading Culturama for its interesting articles. I have learnt a lot by reading the magazine and it also keeps me up to date on the happening places to visit, be it food, furniture, clothes or tourist destinations. Altogether a very interesting read!”

K.P. Philip President and CEO, Kemin Inspired Molecular Solutions, India

Dear Editor,

“I am a Canadian, who has lived in India, and I wanted to tell you what a wonderful magazine you have.”

Dianne Hildred Canada

Dear Editor,

“Culturama is getting better with each issue. My congratulations to the team on the splendid work.”

Ananth C.S. India

Dear Editor,

“I enjoyed many of the facts, colours and richness of the July issue. Culturama makes me fall in love with India or discover something new about India every month.”

Neha Bhalla India

Look out for icons On our website and our magazine we are now using the five icons below to help guide you through the contents. They are based on our five areas where Culturama can really help – giving you an insight into India, its life and culture; finding you great places to shop and fun things to do to enrich your Indian experience; helping you find a home; and connecting you to new friends.

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Read Shop Do Locate Connect

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Culturama’s contributors 01 Susan Philip is a freelance writer based in Chennai, and the editorial coordinator of Culturama’s various coffeetable books.

02 Harini Sankaranarayanan is an ardent foodie and a professional chocolatier. She has a degree in Hotel Management, English literature and theatre.

05 Neil Miller is Head of CrossCultural Services at Global Adjustments. He is an American and has been living in Chennai for the past two years.

06 Eknath Easwaran (1910– 1999) was a spiritual teacher, author and founder of the Blue Mountain Center of Meditation in California. www.easwaran.org

03 Ian Watkinson is a wrestler of words, a cooker of curries, a dabbler with the tabla, a persistent photographer and haphazard historian.

04 Bindu Menon is Country Head of Relocation Services at Global Adjustments. She is a reader of books, traveller of lands, and an India enthusiast.

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07 Devdutt Pattanaik is the Chief Belief Officer of the Future Group, and a writer and illustrator of several books on Indian mythology. www.devdutt.com 08 Anita Krishnaswamy is President of Global Adjustments and a relocation expert. She has years of experience working with expat clients across the country.

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Advisory Board members 09 N Ram is an award-winning journalist and former Editorin-Chief of The Hindu. He is Director of Kasturi & Sons Limited, publishers of The Hindu.

10 Suzanne McNeill lived in India for seven years, first in Chennai and then in Delhi. She has now returned to Scotland, where she works as a freelance writer and graphic designer.

11 Babette Verbeek is a correspondent for BNR Nieuwsradio who previously worked in Amsterdam and Milan. Now she joyfully explores the beauty of South Indian culture.

12 Marina Marangos is a lawyer by profession but enjoys travel and writing. She lived in India for two years before moving to Australia. She blogs at www.mezzemoments.blogspot.com

13 G Venket Ram is an acclaimed photographer and the creative mind behind many a Culturama issue. To know more about his work, log on to www.gvenketram.com 14 Beth Chapman is an American business management consultant living in Bengaluru.

Former President of the city’s Overseas Women’s Club, Beth is an Indian culture aficionado.

We welcome Marcel Van Mourik, a Dutch photographer living in New Delhi for the past three years, and one of Culturama’s popular columnists.

Together with his cameras, he is passionate about discovering Indian culture.

15 Diane Chatterjee, a Scottish insurance professional who has lived in Mumbai for the past seven years. Besides indulging her passion for Indian travel, craft and cuisine, she has been on the Board of Mumbai Connexions, a society for expats.

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On the Cover

Contents Journeys into India

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44 Pot Shots Turn to our Picture Story this month that captures the earthy magic of pots and potters

Seeing India

We follow the river Cauvery, as she meanders through the plains of South India, and stop awhile at Acres Wild in Coonoor, run by Mansoor Khan, former Bollywood director

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Holistic Living

Spiritual guru and teacher, Sri Eknath Easwaran, tells us why conflict is necessary for growth

India’s People

Regulars

10 In Focus

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In conversation with Raageshwari, pop diva, actor, wellness expert and motivational speaker

India’s Culture 12

A-Z of India

26 interesting facts and trivia on India’s contribution to the world

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Short Message Service

Short, engaging snippets of Indian culture

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In Your Kitchen

Kannada Brahmins give us a peek into their tradition on a platter

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Feature

A comprehensive look at the folk music traditions of India

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Myth & Mythology

Stories from India’s mythology reinterpreted for practical living

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Festivals of the Month

Raksha Bandhan to celebrate the brother-sister bond, and Janmashtami, Lord Krishna’s birthday!

Look Who’s in Town

Expats in India share their stories on a practical theme for everyday survival in India

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Calendars

See what’s going in Bengaluru, Delhi, Mumbai and Chennai

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Spotlight

A column featuring India’s biggest influences and events

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At Global Adjustments

Check out the importance of being culturally in-tune with the world

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Global Citizen

A cross-cultural perspective to living and working in India

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Give to India

Featuring worthy causes across the country

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India Writes

A space for India’s abounding world of literature

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Same Difference

Celebrating India’s world of constrasts

Relocations and Property 70

Realty Bytes

Practical advice from Global Adjustments’ relocation expert

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Space and the City

Property listings across the metros

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1 Meet Raageshwari – singer, actor, television host, yoga and wellness expert, motivational speaker, messenger of peace, and the Pied Piper of happiness

Voices from the heart

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In focus

by Praveena Shivram When Raageshwari was born to Veera and Trilok Singh Loomba, it was almost as if a familiar little melody from lifetimes away came back to add a new refrain into their lives. She was born at a time the family decided to pursue music as a career and had moved to Mumbai, following Trilok Loomba’s national award for his composition on the theme of freedom. Quite naturally, she was named Raageshwari, literally meaning the ‘Goddess of Ragas’ or melodies. “As a child, I actually did not like my name. All my friends had fun names like Ruby, Tina, Susie and I had this mythological, mystical name. I felt like I was from the Mahabharata!” she says animatedly, bringing to mind the Raageshwari of the late 1990s, when she burst into every Indian home as the fun-loving, unstoppable, infectious Ragz through her music videos and her avatar as a VJ on MTV. And then, we quickly catch glimpses of this new Ragz, the one who recovered from Bell's palsy after a harrowing year of facial paralysis, the one who rediscovered the heartbeat of music in spirituality and wellness, the one who found happiness in the eternal wealth of giving through her charitable causes, and the one who settled into the truth that every name “brings its essence into you”. In an exclusive interview to Culturama, Raageshwari talks about her upcoming album, on her struggle with Bell's palsy, on her blind choir, on fitness, and more.

Your avatar as a musician followed your debut as an actor and then a television host for a popular music channel.

Was that, perhaps, your path to self-discovery?

I think I am still on that path. Today, I am involved with wellness and I really feel I can’t wait to be eighty or ninety to see what else I can do. That’s me – crazy and mad, with the softer me basically trying to join the crazy bits together.

Sadly, we live in a society that teaches us to limit ourselves.

For instance, if you are an arithmetic genius, then you should concentrate only on that. That’s why I am excited about my latest album where I narrate Louise Hay’s daily affirmations to music I have composed. I do believe that the right energy you put into any thought will bring great results. I love to pack in my day, because the first step to overcome is our mind that keeps telling us, ‘How can I do so much’. Of course, it’s not easy. It’s tough while you fight your mind, like a little boat that bounces with every ripple till it slides into the deep sea of calmness. And endless opportunity. , At the peak of your career, you were diagnosed with Bell s palsy and took a year to bounce back. What was that year like?

For the first two days after I was diagnosed, I was down and out. My face looked like someone had punched me and I

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Watch this 4Duniya, from Raageshwari’s first album: tinyurl.com/33k9lyw Her filmmaker brother, Rishabh, shot this video and all other subsequent videos.

Do the 5 Tibetan Rites: The Secret to Eternal Youth with Raageshwari: tinyurl.com/lu2n6r3 2 You can buy the album Raageshwari narrates daily affirmations by Louise May here: tinyurl.com/lgmsz9u

RAAGESHWARI narrates

DAILY AFFIRMATIONS by

LOUISE HAY

was talking as if I had a marble in my mouth. The only thing I held on to was my family and I knew I had to bounce back.

Thank god my family has a sense of humour. My brother would tell me, “You have always liked Jim Carey. Well, now you look like him!” That lightens your day. It’s so important to laugh. It keeps you positive, helps you think clearly, and you recover much faster. I couldn’t sing or perform, but I could do the things I have always wanted to do. I honed my cooking skills, spent a lot of time with children, learnt aerobics and became a Reebok-certified instructor, and I learnt meditation and yoga that completely changed the course of my life in the most beautiful way possible. It was absolutely a mind shift for me. We live in a pill-popping world today, not realising that every illness is a creation of our own thoughts. I feel my illness has helped me conquer my health. I am 36 and I am at my healthiest best today.

There are a lot of charitable causes you are involved with; your blind choir especially has come in for a lot of praise. In the process, do you leave a part of yourself behind and does it surprise you every time you revisit that space?

How beautifully said and so true. When I work with my blind choir, I do not know how they are singing with so much soul. It humbles me and calms me and inspires me to do more so I can, in turn, give them more. I love them so much that my manager tells me that sometimes I should try and do solo shows and not bring the choir everywhere. They are all so beautiful, so evolved and wise. And sometimes, when the energy is right, I find different parts of me in them.

As a fitness enthusiast, what do you believe every woman could do on an everyday basis to keep fit?

The Hour Power. It is something I sort of put together.

Divide your hour into three 20-minute slots. The first 20 minutes is for your mind, so read something that stimulates your mind. The next 20 minutes is for your soul, so meditate.

And the last 20 minutes is for your body, so exercise. You have to make the change and give yourself this time. And don’t make excuses. I promise you your life will change. 1

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A to Z of India

by Susan Philip

To the world, with love 1 As India completes 66 years as an independent nation, here’s a glimpse of the many ways in which this vast, diverse subcontinent has made its presence felt, and made a difference to the world down the ages. Proud to be Indian!

Ayurveda

Dance , It s an integral part of Indian culture and each region has a distinctive classical style – for instance, Bharathanatyam of Tamil Nadu, Kuchipudi of Andhra Pradesh, Kathakali of Kerala and Kathak of Orissa.

Folk dance forms are no less appreciated. Whether the movements are stylised or extemporised, whether costumes are elaborate or makeshift, they have wowed the world.

Possibly the oldest documented system of medicine that focuses on the harmony of body, mind and spirit for perfect health.

Surgery, toxicology and psychiatry were among its branches in ancient times. Today, it has the world’s respect, and draws patients from all nations to India’s shores.

Business Matters Business acumen is the flip side of India’s spirituality. Lakshmi Mittal and N. R. Narayana Murthy are among those renowned for having built up successful business empires at home and away, while names like Birla, Tata and Ambani are respected all over the world. Indigenous business models have won acclaim too, like the Dabbawallahs of Mumbai.

Etymology

Games and Sports

India has contributed many words to the English dictionary.

‘Catamaran’ from the Tamil Kattumaram, ‘Jungle’ from the Hindi Jungal and ‘Avatar’ from the Sanskrit avatar are among them.

Chess had its origins in India, and it’s only fitting that five-time World Champion Vishwanathan Anand belongs here. The game was called ‘Shatranj’ and was the sport of kings. Snakes and Ladders and Ludo are two other games which took birth in India.

Cottoning On

Filmi Stuff

Calico, chintz and muslin were among the biggest attractions India held for the world. From the Romans to the British, everyone coveted the fine cloth described as ‘woven wind’. Typical items of Indian clothing have also become world fashion statements. The Nehru Jacket, adapted from an outfit favoured by India’s first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, was adopted with aplomb by the Beatles and even characters in James Bond movies.

We have had a century of cinema, enjoyed not only by the Indian diaspora but also by people of completely different ethnic backgrounds. Noted filmmaker Satyajit Ray was honoured with a Lifetime Achievement Oscar.

Indians who have made a name in Hollywood include Manoj Night Shyamalan, Freida Pinto, Deepa Mehta, Mira Nair, Ashok Amritraj, Kal Penn, Sayed Jaffrey and Padma Lakshmi.

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Music, Indian style

Quotes on India

The country has distinctive styles of music, both in the classical and folk traditions.

Many musical instruments native to India are appreciated by music lovers sans boundaries.

India has also gifted greats like A. R. Rahman and Pandit Ravi Shankar to the world.

High Net-Worth Individuals Once known as the land of Maharajas and Emperors, India still has a sizeable number of HNIs. The Knight Frank Wealth Report 2013 ranks the country fifth in the world in this category, with Mumbai being the city with the seventh largest number of HNIs. According to projections, the number is expected to rise dramatically by 2022.

IT Superpower The country has a world presence, both in the IT Services sector and in Business Process Outsourcing.

Bengaluru is considered the Silicon Valley of India because of the large quantum of IT exports from the city, and Infosys, TCS, Cognizant Technologies and HCL are among the Indian names that are most respected globally in the IT industry.

Kitchen Corner If the way to the world’s heart is through its stomach, then India has surely cornered a sizeable portion of love. Chicken Tikka Masala (considered a British National Dish!), Butter Naan, Pilau Rice, Vegetable Jalfrezi and Mutton Rogan Josh have a dedicated fan following across the globe.

Littérateurs Indian writing has created waves in the international arena, starting with the evocative Gitanjali, which won Rabindranath Tagore the country’s first Nobel Prize.

Acclaimed modern Indian writers in English include Salman Rushdie, Vikram Seth, Arundhati Roy, Amitav Ghosh and V. S. Naipaul.

Non-Aligned Movement India was one of the foundermembers of the Non-Aligned Movement which developed in the aftermath of World War II and the collapse of the colonial system.

Since then, the NAM nations have played a fundamental role in maintaining world peace.

Overseas Indians Indian diaspora contributed significantly to the development of African countries, Malaysia and West Indies, among others.

In more recent times, Indians working in science, technology, health, industry and even government have added value to the United States, the United Kingdom and countries of the Middle East.

“India is the cradle of the human race, the birthplace of human speech, the mother of history, the grandmother of legend, and the great grandmother of tradition.

Our most valuable and most instructive materials in the history of man are treasured up in India only.”

– Mark Twain.

“If there is one place on the face of earth where all the dreams of living men have found a home from the very earliest days when man began the dream of existence, it is India.”

– Romain Rolland

Religions India is the birthplace of two great World Religions – Hinduism and Buddhism.

While the former has won international respect for its emphasis on peace and tolerance, the influence of Buddhism spread across China, Japan, Indonesia and other countries of the Far East.

Jainism and Sikhism are other religions which originated in India and have had significant world impact.

Philosophy Jewellery India is the world’s largest market for gold.

Further, it was one of the first countries to produce diamonds. Famous stones from India include the world’s largest pink diamond, the Darya-iNoor or Sea of Light, and the largest cut diamond, the Koh-i-Noor, Mountain of Light.

Photo Isaa Sayegh Sandrine, France

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The Bhagavad Gita’s precepts, which help negotiate life and the conflicts it throws up, the Vedas and other ancient Indian texts are fountains of hope for questing souls. Great minds like Swami Vivekananda opened the doors of Hindu philosophy to the world, while others like Sri Aurobindo founded communities with followers from across the globe.

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Scientific Spirit

Vegetarianism

Kanad, in the sixth century, theorised that all matter is made up of minute particles which cannot be further subdivided – the forerunner of the modern atomic theory. Susrutha was a pioneer in surgery. The thoughts of Aryabhatta (476–550 CE) on the solar system, with the sun at its centre were far ahead of his times. In modern times, C. V. Raman, Homi Bhabha, Jagadish Chandra Bose, S. Chandrashekar and A. P. J. Abdul Kalam are among renowned scientists who have made India proud.

It has religious and cultural, more than health connotations in India. It is associated with the teachings of Mahavira and Buddha, who founded Jainism and Buddhism respectively, grounded in the concept of ahimsa or non-violence.

Vegetarianism is gaining popularity all over the world, and famous votaries include Albert Einstein, Martina Navratilova and Richard Gere.

Trade

In India, the woman is viewed as Shakti or power. Myriad examples can be cited, from the consorts of Gods who complement the strengths of their spouses, to women of substance in diverse fields.

A small selection: Rani Lakshmibai of Jhansi who challenged the might of the British, Indira Gandhi, Kalpana Chawla and Indra Nooyi.

Spices, textiles, gold, gems and jewellery were things that brought the world calling in ancient times. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the British, French, Dutch and Portuguese established trading posts in the country. Both India and the world have benefited by trade ties, as not only commodities but also knowledge and ideas were exchanged.

Women Power

UNESCO World Heritage Sites There are thirty, listed under the cultural and natural categories.

The Taj Mahal is, of course, one of the wonders of the world. Other famous sites include the Ajanta and Ellora Caves, the monuments at Hampi and Mamallapuram, the Qutb Minar, the Jantar Mantar, the Sundarbans and the Western Ghats.

Photo Ben Bowling, USA

Photo Wu Teng Guo, Singapore

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X-clusively Indian – Satyagraha , Perhaps India s greatest gift to the modern world is Mohandas Gandhi and the concept of non-violent non-cooperation. Gandhiji proved how potent this weapon could be by using it to win India freedom from British rule. The baton was picked up by others elsewhere – Martin Luther King Jr. in the United States and Nelson Mandela in South Africa to name just two.

Yoga

Zero and More

This ancient Indian practice is now accepted worldwide as a means of attaining holistic health. The term is derived from the word Yoktra, which is about yoking the mind to the inner self after detaching it from sensory perceptions. For many Indians it is simply a way of life.

Ancient Indian mathematician Aryabhatta was responsible for huge developments in the field. To him goes the credit of conceptualising zero and the place value system. He also approximated the value of pi.

A more recent luminary was Srinivasa Ramanujan, whose work on the analytical theory of numbers, the infinite series and other concepts has put him among the ranks of geniuses.

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by Suzanne McNeill Short cultural snippets for an easily digestible India

Crafts of India Coconut Craft of Kerala

Language Mizo

Coconut shell is a hard wood, which makes it good quality, durable and suitable for carving. Discarded shells have long been used as fuel, but over recent decades enterprising artisans have created a range of decorative and utilitarian products out of the shells and the wood from trees that no longer bear fruit.

The shells, preferably symmetrical and uncracked, are bought hollow from the growers, the flesh having been scooped out through small neat holes. The craftsmen use basic hand-held tools including files to clean and smooth the husk of the shell, fine blades for cutting, chisels for shaping, and sandpaper for smoothing the objects created. These are finished with wax or varnish, and dried in the sun. From the shell come products such as jewellery, bowls and spoons, whilst the wood is used to create picture frames, candle stands and other lifestyle products.

The north-eastern most part of India, connected to east India via a narrow corridor between Nepal and Bangladesh, is home to nearly 39 million people. It is divided into eight states. One of these, Mizoram, became an Indian state as recently as 1987.

The population consists of several ethnic tribes, who are culturally and linguistically linked to peoples spread across Burma and Bangladesh, and are collectively known as Mizos.

The census of 2001 recorded 671,911 speakers of the Mizo language in India. It was not associated with a written script originally, and its extensive use by Christian missionaries resulted in a writing system that uses the Latin alphabet.

Mizo people have a high rate of literacy, and literary achievement in poetry and novels is marked by commendations such as the Mizo Academy of Letters’ ‘Book of the Year’ award. If asked what you think of Mizoram, reply ‘A mawiin a nuam ka ti, mi an fel bawk sï’, ‘It is paradise on earth’.

Art Chittara Folk Painting of Karnataka Chittara is the indigenous art of the matriarchal Deevaru community, located near Sagar in western Karnataka.

Traditionally, chittaras were painted by women in their houses, in marriage halls and temples on walls that were first plastered with red mud or cow dung. Nowadays they are painted on paper, and objects such as boxes, trays and cards. The Deevaru have a tradition of nature worship, and their art is linked to the fertile rainforests of the region. Chittara motifs are intricate, symmetrical patterns that represent the ceremonies and rituals of life. These are symbolised in geometric designs, expressing a form of collective consciousness that has been passed down through the ages from mothers to daughters. All the materials are freely available from the earth itself: ground rice paste is used to create white, and roasted rice for black; red comes from the earth and yellow from gurige seeds, whilst the brushes used by the artists are fashioned from fine strands of jute.

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Photo Tabitha Loyd, UK

Textile Rafoogari of Najibabad in Uttar Pradesh

A centuries-old skill, Rafoogari is the name given to the highly specialised darning and maintenance of pashmina shawls.

Rafoogars are mentioned in several writings from the Mughal period, and to this day are concentrated in the city of Najibabad in Uttar Pradesh. Najibabad is the hub of the kani shawl trade, a type of luxurious embroidered cashmere shawl that can take up to two years to make. The Rafoogars have an important yet unsung role in perfecting, maintaining and restoring pashmina shawls, as well as other luxurious fabrics. The work is done almost completely by Muslim men, many of whom are from Kashmir.

It is an intricate, laborious task, the hallmark of which is invisibility. Rafoogars are said to do such fine work that it is impossible to make out where the textile has been damaged and restored. So expensive are kani shawls that the continuing tradition of darning is significant in rescuing priceless textiles from deterioration and destruction.

Past Influencer Verghese Kurien of Amul Kerala-born Verghese Kurien was a social entrepreneur and one of the world’s great pioneers of the co-operative movement for his work in revolutionising the production and supply of milk in India. Kurien trained as an engineer and was persuaded to serve out his government scholarship at a dairy co-operative managed by the Gujarat Co-operative Milk Marketing Federation (GCMMF). This was formed in 1946 to counter the exploitation of small milk producers in the state. Kurien created the Amul brand of dairy products, whose initial success was reinforced by the innovation of making powdered milk on a commercial scale from buffalo milk, readily available in India, rather than cows’ milk. The government set up the National Dairy Development Board to replicate the success of GCMMF nationwide, with Kurien at its head, and the programme, which became known as the White Revolution, has made India the world’s largest milk producer, responsible for 17% of global output in 2010. Verghese Kurien died in 2012.

Photo Dany Haim, USA

Words Rumaal vs Rumaali In Hindi, Nepali and Bengali, the word rumaal means ‘handkerchief’. The word has a specific meaning in the context of the Sikh religion, where it is the name given to a cloth worn over the head by Sikh men with short hair when they visit a Gurdwara, the Sikh place of worship. Many Sikh men do not cut their hair, which they protect by wearing a turban. As it is respectful to cover the head in Sikhism, a basket of rumaals is therefore made available to those who do not wear a turban.

Rumaal, meaning handkerchief, has been adopted by the culinary world to describe a very thin flatbread, rumaali roti, which is eaten with tandoori dishes. It is often served in stacks, each roti folded like a napkin or handkerchief. The dough, which is very supple, is rolled as thinly as possible then swirled and rotated from hand to hand by the chef to stretch it further. Watch chef Sanjay Thumma create rumaali roti here: http://tinyurl.com/lthqamj

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Photo Enrice

Interpretations

Donate Sànche

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The recent floods that have so devastated the lives of the people of Uttarakhand have also taken their toll on the region’s cultural icons. The state contains some of India’s holiest Hindu shrines and has attracted pilgrims for hundreds of years. This 14-foot statue of Lord Shiva in meditative pose sat at the Parmarth Niketan ashram in the town of Rishikesh, on one of the ghats leading down to the Ganges, India’s most holy river. It is said that the Ganges originated from Vishnu’s toe, and was brought down to earth from heaven. Its turbulence threatened to destroy the earth, but was stopped by the matted hair of Shiva, who therefore has the title ‘Ganga-Dhara’ or ‘Bearer of the Ganges’. The statue is said to be carved from a single block of granite and weighs 12 tons, but the images of a submerged Shiva symbolise the vulnerability of Uttarakhand’s people and heritage in the face of such devastation.

Tribes of India Bonda Tribes The Bonda are one of India’s oldest and most primitive tribes.

They live in isolated hill villages in the region where the states of Orissa, Chhattisgarh and Andhra Pradesh meet, and number at most 12,000. Bonda culture has changed little in one thousand years. Women enjoy a privileged position as primary workers and providers of food. They dress in a simple ringa, a length of cloth around the waist, with heavy silver jewellery and strings of colourful beads covering their upper torsos. Girls marry boys younger than themselves, acting as the child’s guardian as he grows up, and then the adult man is responsible for supporting his older wife. However, many men suffer from alcohol addiction brought on by drinking the sap of the Sago Palm from an early age due to a legend that emphasises its nurturing properties.

The Bonda are reluctant to mix with outsiders and reject attempts by local government to intrude on their lifestyle.

Urban Adventure Mohammed Ali Road, Mumbai Mohammed Ali Road drives down through the anarchic jumble of streets that make up Mumbai’s teeming central bazaar area.

Victorian food halls, antiques-cum-flea markets, Hindu temples and Islamic mosques jostle for space alongside the small shops and tiny stalls that line the narrow streets of the colourful shopping areas. They are fascinating places to walk around and experience India at its most intense. Mohammed Ali Road truly comes into its own, however, during the Islamic holy month of Ramadan. The many food stalls on the street stay open throughout the night to cater for the city’s Muslim population, who come to break their fast in the evening. And it’s not just Muslims who flock to the street to sample the wide range of mouth-watering non-vegetarian, vegetarian and sweet delicacies – the nocturnal street food is a favourite with people from all across Mumbai.

For visitors to India, it’s a ‘must-try’ at this time of year!

Photo Saurava Mazumdar, https://www.facebook.com/SauravaMazumdarEyelenseye

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Photo Courtesy Chef Malgudi Kavitha, The Savera, Chennai

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In your kitchen

by Harini Sankaranarayanan

Karnatic flavours 1 The Kannada Brahmins of Karnataka believe in keeping things simple.

But that does not mean they are any less sumptuous or flavourful as we discover this month

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Akki Roti with Coconut Chutney For the Roti 1 cup rice flour 1 medium onion finely chopped ¼ cup freshly grated coconut ½ tsp cumin seeds (optional) Salt to taste Water to bind Oil to shallow fry Method – Combine all ingredients together and add just enough water for it to come together like a dough.

– Divide the dough into 5 or 6 little balls.

– Heat a griddle. Take one of the little balls of rice flour and pat it into a thin pancake directly on the griddle. (This may take a little practice. Be prepared for the first couple to break or crumble).

– Drizzle with a little bit of oil and wait for a few minutes to cook.

– Flip over and drizzle with a little more oil. Cook till golden and a little crisp.

– Serve hot with coconut chutney.

For the Chutney ½ Coconut freshly grated 1 green chilli 2 tsp roasted channa dal (known locally as pottu kadalai) ¼ tsp powdered jaggery ¼ tsp tamarind Salt to taste Water to grind to a paste Method – Add all ingredients to a blender and grind into a fine paste.

For tempering: – Heat a little oil and add mustard seeds to it.

– Wait for it to splutter and add curry leaves.

– Pour the hot oil into the blended chutney.

Manjula Umakanth hails from an orthodox Brahmin family from Karnataka. She belongs to the Babbor Kamme sect, part of the Smartha Brahmins, who accept all forms of Hindu deities to be one, with a rigorous emphasis on following India’s ancient scriptures, the Vedas and the Upanishads.

But for Manjula, like most other Smartha Brahmins, the wisdom of these scriptures percolates into everyday life through the vibrant colour of festivals. And like all of India, the one leveller that goes beyond cultural barriers or even the wisdom of words, is often food, the glue across the table binding generations. “Sankaranthi or the harvest festival meant a dish of sweetened rice called Pongal. Come Ugadhi or New Year, Holige, a sweet stuffed pancake, made its appearance. Kadabu, a deep fried pastry welcomes Ganesh Chaturthi,” she says with almost child-like glee.

Like most South Indians, rice is the staple and like most Brahmin communities, the Babbor Kamme sect is vegetarian. Onions and garlic are not taboo, unless it is a special day of festivities or fasting. Karnataka, the home of Udipi cooking (almost an institution of south Indian vegetarian cooking) has its influence on the methods and ingredients of almost the entire region. “Our sambar (a thick lentil soup) and saaru (a thin watery soup) are slightly different to the ones you would find in Tamil Nadu or Andhra Pradesh. We add toasted coconut and a little bit of jaggery to our sambar, which gives it the characteristic rich flavour,” says Manjula.

Even the chillies used are slightly different and lend a more rounded flavour.

Two kinds of vegetables are a must on the dining table. A special masala powder is sprinkled on some of them and cooked to give a lovely play of spices on the tongue.

A typical mix of dals, coriander seeds, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom and coconut are roasted and powdered and kept in little jars ready to be used either with the vegetables or rice. A raita or pachadi and kosambari or a salad is another festive addition.

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No meal would be complete without batter-fried vegetable fritters. This is followed by rice, accompanied by sambar or saaru.

More often than not, one can relish the famous Bissibela Bath, a rice preparation in an almost thick porridge like consistency studded with vegetables. The meal is finished off like in any other south Indian household with a bowl of fresh yogurt and rice accompanied by pickle and chutney.

Dinner follows a similar pattern of rice with vegetables. “We love broad beans,” says Munjula. “During the season, it somehow sneaks its way into most of our dishes.” Even the little beans inside are peeled and fried to make a really tasty snack. Raw mango is another favourite in the summer months.

The love of sweet and sour also extends to other dishes like the Pineapple Gojju. Tangy, spicy and sweet all at the same time, it is a perfect foil to the simple rice.

With lunch taking all the glory, breakfast is simpler. Almost rustic, it is aimed to fill the stomach and sustain energies. The Akki Roti is the most famous of them all. A simple pancake made out of rice flour, seasoned onions, chillies and salt is roasted to a golden brown and is served with a delicate coconut chutney. Ragi Mudda, a thick porridge made from a local millet, is another popular breakfast dish which has almost disappeared from the urban Brahmin’s menu. “Very few people make it these days,” rues Manjula.

“Bread and cornflakes have taken over.”

The similarities between the food habits of the adjacent states and communities are very obvious. The use of coconut as in Kerala, chillies as in Andhra Pradesh and tamarind as in Tamil Nadu has become a part of the local cooking. Despite this, the way the spices are used has evolved a very distinct flavour typical of this community. 1 5 Did You Know?

There are many sub-sects among the Brahmins and Karnataka probably has the largest number of sub-sects of this community.

A majority of Smartha Brahmins are found in South India.

The late Shakuntala Devi, known as the Indian human computer, was a Kannada Brahmin.

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Feature

by Suzanne McNeill

Once upon a tune Photo Martijn Kleverlaan, Germany

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Artistes and Links Subbu Arumugam’s name is considered synonymous with Villu Pattu. Here’s a link to a performance recorded by Vijay Television: http://tinyurl.com/Villupattu Prahlad Singh Tipanya leads an acclaimed traditional Kabir folk ensemble: http://tinyurl.com/KabirFolk Aruna Sairam is a Carnatic music vocalist, who has performed around the world. Here’s a stunning rendition of an Abhang: http://tinyurl.com/Abhang Parvathy Baul is another international performer. She is self-trained and passionate about the Baul tradition: http://tinyurl.com/BaulFolk Here’s a piece of traditional folk music from Uttarakhandi: http://tinyurl.com/Uttarakhandi Deedar Singh Pardesi is one of many fine performers of Punjabi folk music to be found online.

Here’s a link to several of his recordings: http://tinyurl.com/PunjabiFolk Gaana is also known as ‘Chennai Blues’: http://tinyurl.com/GaanaFolk Here’s a concert performance of Bhatiyali: http://tinyurl.com/Bhatiyali There are many recordings of Lavani dances to be found online, many taken from films. This performance by Surekha Punekar focuses equally on the singing as the dancing: http://tinyurl.com/LavaniFolk A beautiful song from the Garba genre of folk music: http://tinyurl.com/GarbaFolk

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Janet strikes a pose with her children at the Nayakar Palace, Madurai

Survival of the fittest Look who’s in town Chennai

1 Professional counsellor, yoga instructor and Watsu follower, Jamaican Canadian Janet Haughton Quarshie talks about all that is fit and fine in Chennai

"In our first year in Chennai, my husband and I participated in the city’s first Run/Walkathon.

After finishing the run, my husband and I were accidentally separated in the large crowd. I didn’t have my mobile and I hadn’t memorised my husband’s number either. So we ended up spending an exhausting hour trying to find each other on Marina Beach!” recalls Janet Haughton Quarshie, flashing us her uninhibited smile. The good thing, apart from finding her husband, was that Janet “found” Chennai too. “As an expat, I feel that Chennai has matured in the last six years we have lived here. There is a lot more available, many more things to do… the city feels more cosmopolitan. In fact, there’s hardly anything that I miss from home right now,” she says.

A certified yoga instructor from Krishnamacharya Yoga Mandiram, and currently training to be a Watsu (aquatic bodywork) practitioner, fitness for Janet is not a deliberate choice, but simply a way of life.

Skiing to Yoga

Fitness in Canada is about the outdoors.

Jogging outside in spring and summer and skiing and ice skating in the winter, Canada has plenty of opportunities to explore and enjoy nature. I also enjoyed practicing and teaching yoga back home, though, that underwent a complete transformation after I came to Chennai. Studying yoga in Chennai has been an incredibly fulfilling experience for me,

and has increased my appreciation and passion for the philosophy and history of yoga. I love to practise outside on my terrace in the early mornings with a view of the sea… that is something I can do all year in Chennai, but definitely not back home in Canada!

Chennai Live

If you enjoy running and socialising then try the Chennai Hash House Harriers. It’s a friendly group that gets together every other Sunday evening to jog and/or walk a predetermined trail. For those who want more of a challenge there are Marathons, 1/2 marathons and 10 km runs organised in and around Chennai. And, of course, I believe that everyone should practise yoga while in India. Not just for fitness, but also for stress relief and ultimately to connect with your inner and higher consciousness.

Fitness Tips

Three tips for expats wanting to enjoy fitness in Chennai: dress modestly, always hydrate and take it easy when it gets hot in May.

When in Canada

The main thing Indians should keep in mind for the best fitness experience in my country is not to be afraid to go outside and enjoy nature. And if you happen to be in Canada during the winter season, try ice skating, tobogganing, and cross-country skiing. 1

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Scott (centre) and her daughters say cheese!

Capital home Look who’s in town Delhi 1 Join American Scott Osborne as she takes us on a tour of the best places to shop for the home in the capital city

In every expat’s India diary, there is bound to be this line in bold on the cover: Expect the Unexpected.

New Yorker Scott Osborne’s diary is no different.

Having moved to Delhi two years ago, Scott not just memorised the adage quickly, but she also learnt to enjoy it. “Delhi takes a while to adjust to, but then its charms are apparent. You absolutely never know what you might see on any street corner!” she says before a warm glow enters her voice and she adds, “Today, I especially love Delhi for the friends I’ve made here – the people are definitely the best part.”

And it was the people, who eventually guided her to Nehru Place when she arrived to set up her home. “All my best finds have come via word of mouth. When I needed fabrics for curtains and couches, I had no idea where to go. I spent days at the wrong stores before I learned about the fabric shops at Nehru Place. Actually, I am embarrassed to say how long I wasted and how much money I spent before I made this discovery,” she says with a sheepish grin, and we smile too. Because early diary entries are to be left alone. It is the later ones that tell us what we need to know, and this time, it’s from Scott’s home shopping pages. Read on.

Delhi Deals

If you’re near Vasant Vihar, just go to ‘Osaba’ for all those little household items you need on arrival – it’s one-stop shopping! Then try Shahpur Jat, especially ‘Second Floor Studio’. That’s where you’ll find the best new funky pieces. And, of course, go to ‘India Crafts’ in Okla, where you’ll find two entire buildings filled with everything: dressers,

wardrobes, mirrors, tables, chairs, you name it – even door knobs and garden furniture. I even have a set of very cool drinking glasses from there.

Shopping Tips

Let the rug merchants come to you! They’ll haul in as many rugs, all types and sizes, as you want to see. Bargain, but make your peace with your personal reservation price.

Quality varies immensely, so look closely.

I have some wonderful, solid wood pieces that should last a lifetime, but I have also ended up with some items that barely made it home.

And finally, pick up business cards at the first Mela you go to – you’ll definitely find some places to visit later.

When in the United States

In New York, there are great sources of modern furniture and I love museum gift shops for decorative pieces; go to the ‘Museum of Modern Art’ (MOMA) for beautiful modern kitchen items. In Florida, flea markets and antiques are available at reasonable prices.

Online searches and product comparisons are very much the norm in the United States. Practically anything can be bought online and delivered to the door, though labour and shipping are much higher than in Delhi. Other stores to check out are ‘Ikea’ for household stuff; ‘Home Depot’, for appliances, paint and garden items and ‘Pottery Barn / Restoration Hardware’ for charming classic and well-made items. 1

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Phil and Louise at the Dance Theatre Godrej, NCPA

Curtain raiser Look who’s in town Mumbai Britisher Phil Sizer, the General Manager of the Symphony Orchestra of India, and his wife, Louise Sizer, show us how to tune into Mumbai’s vibrant performing arts scene

To get the best of Mumbai’s performing arts scene, perhaps the best place to go would be the National Centre for Performing Arts (NCPA) in Mumbai.

But Phil and Louise Sizer are one step ahead. “In London, we lived within easy travelling distance of several major arts venues. But in Mumbai, we are fortunate enough to reside close to the NCPA complex at Nariman Point, so we literally have five theatres at our doorstep!” says Louise with obvious excitement. After six years in London with the best of theatre, music and dance, the Sizers were often spoilt for choice, but within six months in Mumbai, they discovered that Mumbai too isn’t far behind.

“We’ve been pleasantly surprised by the variety and quality of arts and cultural events on offer in this city. Though it takes some adjusting to live here, the vibrant arts scene certainly helped to make us feel more at home,” adds Phil, before giving us an exclusive preview of Mumbai’s best shows.

The Mumbai calendar

Two highlights of the Western classical music calendar are the concert seasons of the Symphony Orchestra of India in February and September at the NCPA. The NCPA also offers the best in Indian music and dance, as well as a varied programme of English, Hindi and regional language plays.

Another highlight is the annual Kala Ghoda Arts Festival, a week-long celebration of the arts

in the heart of South Mumbai. For popular and contemporary music the place to go is Blue Frog in Lower Parel, a relatively new venue that attracts high profile artists from across India and the world.

Tips to note

Regularly monitor local event listings. When you find an event you’re interested in, it is always worth making contact with the venue or organiser to double check if it is still happening as advertised.

We also advise looking out for free events – many things are free of cost or very cheap, so it is definitely worth stepping out of your comfort zone and trying something new!

When in London

First head to the museums and galleries. Most of them are free and many of them are vast. For a more digestible experience, consider visiting a smaller one like the Wallace Collection on Wigmore street. The best venues for music are probably the South Bank Centre and King’s Place. Those visiting in the summer should try and get to the BBC Proms festival at the Royal Albert Hall where around 90 orchestral concerts are performed in as many days. 1

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August Calendar of events

Presenting the best of India’s events in different categories across the cities of Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai and nearby suburbs

Art & exhibitions

Film & theatre

Contemporary British Art Bengaluru

How to Skin a Giraffe Chennai

Titled ‘Homelands’, this show, curated by Latika Gupta, features 28 international artists and their work on the theme of “a 21st century story of home, away and all the places in between”.

Perch, a Chennai-based theatre collective, presents a comedy in English – How to Skin a Giraffe that tells the story of two dynasties, a son, a daughter, a marriage of convenience, and, of course, how to skin a giraffe!

Inspired by iconic German playwright, Georg Buchner’s Leonce and Lena, this Perch production is part of the Hindu Metro Plus Theatre Festival that is being held across metros in the month of August.

Date From July 6 to August 14 Time 1100h to 1900h Venue National Gallery of Modern Art, Manikyavelu Mansion, Palace Road, Bengaluru Call 0 8022342338 for more details

Date: August 10 Venue Museum Theatre, Cathedral Road, Chennai Visit www.perch.co.in for more details

German Film Screening Chennai Rotkohl und Blaukraut, a German documentary film directed by Anna Hepp, is a portrait of two families with German and Turkish backgrounds, and examines the social network of the protagonists.

The film brings them out as people who build bridges between two cultures, religions and traditions.

Date August 29 Time 1830h Venue Goethe-Institut Auditorium, #4, Rutland Gate, 5th Street, Chennai Call 044-28331314 for more details.

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Workshops & events

Vintage Cars Display Chennai

Children’s Workshop Chennai

The Madras Heritage Motoring Club will have their annual display of vintage and classic cars. About 100 cars and two-wheelers will be on display. The centenary of the Morris is also being celebrated with a display of over 25 Morris cars.

The event is free and open to all.

Join award-winning children’s author Anushka Ravishankar in a fun drawing and writing workshop for children aged 5 to 10 years. Tell tall tales and read from the author’s books, such as Tiger on a Tree and Elephants Never Forget.

Date August 4 Time 0900h to 1200h Venue Don Bosco School, #13, Casa Major Road, Egmore, Chennai Call Ananth at 9840412262 for further details

The Monsoon Festival New Delhi Into its 8th year now, this cultural festival celebrates the magic of the Indian monsoon and revives traditional cultural practices. With poetry, arts, music and food, this is probably the best way to welcome the monsoon! Do make time for the two-day Jaipur Teej tour. It lets you soak in the colour of this Pink City during the monsoons, and includes a visit to the fort of Amer.

Date August 9 to 24 Venue Alliance Francaise de Delhi, Plot no.72, Lodhi Road, New Delhi Visit http://www.themonsoonfestival.com for more details.

Date August 10 Time 1730h to 1900h Venue Tara Books, Book Building, #9, CGE Colony, Off Kuppam Beach Road, Thiruvanmiyur, Chennai Call 044-42601033 for more details

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Workshops & events

Talk on Indian Arts New Delhi Cultural historian and heritage educationist, Dr.Navina Jafa, will give a lecture on ‘Cultural Journeys – Window to Indian Arts’. The talk is presented as a dialogue between the visual and the performing arts, and also gives information on region specific performances.

Date Till August 12 Time 1730h to 1845h Venue Alliance Francaise de Delhi, Plot no.72, Lodhi Road, New Delhi Call 011-43500200 for more details

From Comic to Graphic Novel Mumbai This unique workshop will explore the world of comics.

The focus will be on modern cartoonists and the impact of comics on films, with an introduction to techniques of page design and illustration. It aims to help you create your own mini-comic / graphic novel.

Date August 13 Time 1730h to 1830h Venue Alliance Francaise Auditorium, V.Thackersey Marg, Churchgate, Mumbai Registrations on a first-come-first-served basis, call 022-22035993

Madras Day Celebrations Chennai Madras Day, celebrated on August 22, is more than just a birthday. It is a time to remember Chennai’s historical background, the luminaries who called Madras home, and the city’s strategic position in the affairs of the Empire. Which is why, this particular birthday is celebrated over several days! The city comes alive with a host of events in multiple venues hosted by individuals, groups and communities. The highlight, of course, is the heritage walk conducted by leading historians around the birthplace of Madras – Fort St. George.

Date August 18 onwards Venue Across Chennai city Visit www.themadrasday.in or www.facebook.com/madrasday for the complete schedule.

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Calendar spaces Know your city

Pondicherry Sita Cultural Centre

Mumbai Nehru Centre The Nehru Centre is based on India’s first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru’s vision for a centre of culture and science. The culture wing encourages young performing artists and organises regular cultural programmes in dance, drama and music, while The Nehru Centre Art Gallery promotes young talent.

Do check out their fantastic planetarium too, with its interesting lecture-demonstrations.

Website www.nehru-centre.org

New Delhi The Ravi Shankar Centre Celebrating its first anniversary this year, Sita Cultural Centre has a goal to help people discover the arts, culture and local customs.

The centre welcomes residents, tourists or artists to try their hand at cooking Indian and French food, painting, yoga or dancing.

Started by painting enthusiast, Martine Mallard, and dancer/therapist, Fleur Soumers, centre strives to help people understand the unique culture of Pondicherry.

Website www.pondicherry-arts.com

Bengaluru Shankaraa Foundation A registered charitable trust run by danseuse Rashme Hegde Gopi, Shankaraa Foundation is a space that promotes heritage and facilitates cultural interaction through classical music, folk music, drama, visual arts and crafts, and workshops for beginners and professionals. The trust runs Poorvanga – academy for traditional arts; Hastanjali – Council for Crafts; and Rangaguccha – a creative arena for the young.

Website www.shankaraafoundation.com

Established by the late Grammy-award winning musician, Ravi Shankar, this centre serves as a resource platform for students researching classical Indian music, through its archives, library and reading room. The centre also has a recording studio and a large open air concert room that hosts many concerts. The foundation also has an art gallery on its premises.

Website www.ravishankar.org

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Picture story

by Marcel Van Mourik 1 Delhi’s largest potter’s colony, Kumhar Gram, is located in the outskirts of West Delhi, where nearly 750 potter families from Alwar, Rajasthan, have settled permanently. The potters of this village rely solely on their craft for their livelihood and can turn out a minimum of 200 pots every day. The Alwar potters are very talented, friendly, warm and a proud bunch of people, where the wheel is their status symbol.

Pot shots

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What surprised me about this community was the strict demarcation of work between the man and his wife. The woman never touches the potter’s wheel. She never crafts or hones a clay product because it is always a man’s job. She does behind-the-scene jobs such as beating and kneading the clay, which honestly seemed more taxing to me.

The products produced by this community are sold widely in the capital city. Eighty-five percent of what they make consists of Gamlas (flower pots), Matkas (water cups and Gulaqs (piggy banks). The remaining 15 % are mostly home accessories. 1 01 Baked pots, indicated by the orange colour, are piled in an efficient way against a long wall.

02 A happy Indian girl posing for me behind a fully loaded rickshaw, ready for distribution.

03 Everywhere you will see wood-fired clay ovens.

This Indian-style decorated oven is ready to be filled with new pots.

04 A clay oven full of pots ready to be baked.

Remnants of broken pots are used to close the oven to keep the heat inside.

05 All kinds of pots on display in front of the shop, with a young girl waiting patiently for customers.

06 A potter’s wife beating and kneading the heavy clay and finally dividing them in the right proportions.

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Spotlight

by Susan Philip

Buddhism

1 In the wake of the recent horrific blasts at Bodh Gaya, Bihar, the most important place of pilgrimage for the followers of the Buddha, where he is said to have attained enlightenment, we turn the spotlight on Buddhism that simply preaches: “Not to do evil; To do what is good; and To cleanse one’s own mind”

Born Siddhartha, prince of the kingdom of Kapilavastu, the Buddha chose to forsake his royal life to try and discover the cause of suffering and death in this world and find a way to overcome them. His quest resulted in the founding of one of the great world religions – Buddhism.

The keywords of the Buddha’s teachings are simplicity, compassion and respect.

Karma, or the law of cause and effect, is one of the cornerstones of the Buddha’s teachings. Ignorance of Karma and greed for undeserved pleasures is what causes suffering, and to remove suffering, ignorance and greed must be removed, he said.

The Buddha prescribed an eight-step approach to the goal of lasting happiness:

1 Right View: View the world with wisdom and compassion.

2 Right Thought: Think clear, kind thoughts.

3. Right Speech: Speak only kind and helpful words.

4 Right Conduct: Ensure that there is no fault in your behaviour.

5 Right Livelihood: Do not earn your living by harming others or seek happiness by making others unhappy.

6 Right Effort: Do your best at all times and have goodwill toward others.

7 Right Mindfulness. Be aware of your thoughts, words and deeds.

8 Right Concentration. Focus on one thought or object at a time, to stay calm and peaceful.

By following these steps, the negativity implicit in desires, aversions and delusions is extinguished, and the mind achieves Nirvana or the ultimate state of imperturbability. 1

1 Read The Jataka Tales.

They’re a collection of delightful short stories illustrating the Buddha’s teachings.

3 Do Learn these two simple chants: Buddham Saranam Gacchami (I bow to Buddha and resort to him as refuge) at http://tinyurl.com/32zdwmn.

Or recite the popular Buddhist mantram, “Om Mani Padme Hum”, which means the “Jewel in the Lotus of my Heart”.

2 Shop Meditation mats and prayer beads are popular collectables. http://tinyurl.com/omohp7p lists some interesting options.

4 Locate Apart from Bodh Gaya, there are three other major Buddhist pilgrimage spots. Lumbini, his birthplace, is in present-day Nepal. Sarnath, where he delivered his first sermon, and Kushinagar, where he died, both in India, are the others.

5 Connect Buddhism and its message of peace and lasting happiness spread from India’s shores to China, Japan, Burma, Indonesia, Sri Lanka and even the Western world. Visit the websites http://tinyurl.com/qa94ota and http://tinyurl.com/66odamd for a quick overview.

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Ganges of the South 1 Follow the Cauvery River’s trajectory through India’s geography, through her history, through her culture and, most importantly, through your heart

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Seeing India

by Ian Watkinson

Ask anyone for the name of a great Indian River and ‘Ganges’ is usually the first to roll off the tongue. Sadly, the great Kaveri or Cauvery River of the South is often overlooked.

With its source high in the west of Karnataka, it evolves into a threaded labyrinth in the Cauvery Delta in eastern Tamil Nadu, finally issuing into the Bay of Bengal. In the undulating hills west of Mysore, the cool water swells and swirls with swift precision – a perfect home for the legendary yet increasingly endangered Mahseer fish, the river’s aquatic big cat.

Threading east through a dozen dams and hydro generation plants it descends into Tamil Nadu near Dharmapuri, en route encased by idyllic countryside. Here is a rural paradise, the landscape peppered with hills of smooth boulders that seem to have been artistically heaped like giant pebbles; where the ear can almost hear the sound of rice growing, and the texture of clouds slowly scudding by the edge of the monsoon-cocooned Mysore Plateau breaks the stillness.

Reaching nearby Hogennakal Falls the river plunges through a series of spectacular waterfalls that slice their way through ancient, igneous rocks. Known as the “Niagara of India”, this jewel lies hidden deep in the heart of a lush forest, populated only by thousands of Macaques and a few settlements of Malayali tribes. Fishermen with simple lines laze between the rocks, the still pools lower down green with water plants and algae.

Locals and weekenders from the nearby cities bathe in the tumbling waters; they bend and flex under the waiting masseurs’ oily hands, and lay their washing out to dry in the warm sun like splashes of bright paint on the rock’s neutral canvas.

Visitors barter heavily with the local boatmen, who control all rides downstream in a parisal – a round wicker-framed coracle. Picnic parties scatter like bright petals over the craggy islands, a riot of chatter and colour, rice and fresh fried fısh from the river shared by all, intersected by the rush of fresh water.

Following the river down to Tiruchirappalli (or Trichy) the landscape flattens. Here, the Cauvery has grown in width with the addition of many tributaries, its erstwhile allies against drought. The gritty red soil is hidden beneath fertile banana plantations, coconut, palmyra (nungu), and textured layers of paddy, all nurtured into abundance by water from the river. Occasional rocky outcrops, such as Trichy Fort, rise boldly from the irrigated plain. Viewed from the Ganesh “Ucchi Pillayar” temple at the summit of Trichy Fort Hill, the Cauvery Delta spreads all around like a glorious panoramic quilt.

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Islands have been created by the flow of water in the sandy bed; one giving a home to the great temple at Sri Ranganathaswamy, built within concentric walls like a Russian doll with Vishnu reclining at the heart. All life revolves around the river’s course – agrarian, religious and commercial. For now we have entered the heartland of the Cauvery Delta, where one of the most powerful and artistic cultures in the world flowered over one thousand years ago – the great Chola dynasty.

With their capital city in the medieval city of Thanjavur, the Cholas were masters of war, of maritime navigation, of agriculture and of commerce – yet also superbly creative architects and adventurous builders of temples, canals; avid patrons of dance, painting, sculpture, literature and music.

The Cauvery Delta is renowned as being the ‘land of temples’, where towering gopurams rise in psychedelic rainbow profusion above the surrounding coconut trees and paddy fields – a vibrant contrast to nature’s dense dark green chromatics. Here, hard stone has been cut, sculpted and perfectly constructed into cool richly decorated temples, celebrating the love of life intrinsic to Chola culture.

Amid the rustling palms the river subtly spreads its fingers of fertility; for this is the rice bowl of the South. Over millennia the managed farming of rice, and the logistics of irrigation, have been fine tuned into an art form. The famous Grand Anicut dam, dating back to the 2nd century, is regarded as one of the oldest water management structures in the world – and it is still in use today.

When the British arrived in the early 19th century, they addressed the areas’ escalating problems with water supply and irrigation, which seriously compounded over the centuries since the Chola’s demise. The Cotton Brothers modified the Grand Anicut, created new barrages and canals in the Delta, and in 1836 constructed the Lower Anicut barrage on the main northern branch of the Cauvery, the Coleroon or Kollidam river, which is also still in operation today. Unfortunately, it is said that they requisitioned the masonry for these civil engineering projects by demolishing abandoned ancient temples, albeit with the tacit approval of local Brahmins.

Today, the use of the great Cauvery’s waters are still in dispute between the states of the Carnatic, its unique importance ever more highlighted in these days of climate change, population growth and electrical consumption.

So, next time the question is asked about the great rivers of Asia, let us recall the Cauvery. More so, let us show gratitude and respect to this most benevolent of rivers; this peaceful, meandering sliver of water. For longer than history, the Cauvery has been the life blood of the people who live on its banks, and truly deserves its title – the “Ganges of the South”. 1

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Heaven on Earth 1 What do you get when someone decides to leave the glitz and glamour of Bollywood behind to follow their heart and match their footsteps with that of the earth? You get Acres Wild Happy with the birds at the duck pond

One of the fantastic views at Acres Wild

Young farmers at work!

The cheese-making cottage

On my many walks at Acres Wild

culturama

Seeing India

by Bindu Menon

The onus of planning the annual all-girls holiday was, by default, on me. I had set the standard and my friends expected something unique and out-of-the ordinary every year. I was looking at a place that was easy to commute, eco-friendly and child-friendly, and safe for three girls and four children.

During a casual conversation with my colleague on this topic, she suggested Acres Wild in Coonoor. I loved the name instantly. Their website was not truly impressive but what got me going was the sheer variety of activities for children.

I was pleasantly surprised at the speed of response from the owner, Mansoor Khan, who answered my emails and subsequently my numerous questions over several calls. I loved the passion with which he spoke about his place. He was clear. He only wanted those who respected nature and looked for an experience rather than just another holiday in the hills.

There was no commercial feel about it. It was like he invited us over to discover the place for ourselves.

Now, this was a total surprise destination for my friends and the children, including my daughter. So, as we drove up the hills from Coimbatore and the view became more scenic, they were intrigued. Soon, we saw less human life around. It was like a long and winding drive to heaven. And it sure was!

Mansoor himself was at the gate to welcome us – with warmth and a bright smile as if he had known me for years.

He took us to our cottage that stood on top of the mountain overlooking the deep green valley. My friends were awestruck and the children ran around bare feet on the cool grass with squeals of excitement.

Neat and tastefully designed, the rooms were huge yet cozy.

The traditional wooden roof, the furniture, bed linen, curtains, the kitchen and the attention to detail convinced me that there was a woman behind all this. Soon we met Tina, the beautiful woman who left a glitzy life in Bollywood to join her husband and his dreams in Coonoor (For those who don’t know, Mansoor Khan was a successful Bollywood director, before leaving it all for the mountains). Tina too found her calling in the mountains. She made cheese and what an exotic variety!

Our mornings began with the cows. Yes, there were 16 of them in the shed. We got to try our hands at milking them.

The children loved it; especially knowing that one wrong move from their side would, well, the less said the better!

Later they fed, petted and played with them.

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We walked down a winding path till we reached a pond full of hungry ducks and geese waiting to be fed. We sat by the pond watching the battle of the birds, each vying to get the most of the feed. The cows had by then come down to graze.

The gardener was ready with a basket. He called out to the children who were excited to see a huge patch of turnips, cabbage, carrots, radish, and more. The last time they saw a carrot being pulled from the ground was in `Miffy’, their kiddy cartoon serial. One by one they yanked them out, and handed it straight to Deepak and his wife who would make delicious rotis and curry for lunch. We devoured every bit of the wholesome meal and asked for extra helpings of Deepak’s famous dal tadka.

A stroll around the 25 acre property was just what we needed to digest all that we had tucked in. The afternoon siesta was a dream. Twilight was magical. It was quite cold, even though it was peak summer, and we had to bring out our woollens. We had tea sitting at our gazebo, staring at the dark silent valley, a black canopy with golden sparkles. The children played indoor games while we caught up on girly chats.

We were called for dinner. That was one meal Mansoor enjoyed being a part of. He took us to his house to meet his family and Ria, their pet Labrador. I felt like a journalist asking Mansoor questions about his love for nature, what it meant to leave fame and money in Bollywood for a life in the hills, how Acres Wild happened, and as we spoke I realised he felt so much for the environment and was, quite naturally, concerned about the future. He has recently finished his book on the subject, titled The Third Curve – The End of Growth As You Know It, slated for release this October.

The next morning we visited Tina’s cheese-making factory.

Vinod was her expert assistant who knew all the names and flavours. The kids watched in awe as they explained and demonstrated how cheese was made.

Every day, the children had the same routine – milk the cows, feed the ducks, plant vegetable seeds in the garden, play in the wide open spaces, eat delicious food, sleep, play, eat, sleep. By the end of our stay, they had learnt the basics of billiards, read a few books on wildlife and understood the value of natural resources like they never had before from their textbooks in school. But not once did we hear the word `bored’. And for us mothers, it was peace in abundance. 1 5 Acres Wild Farm Acres Wild Farm is located near the main market in lower Coonoor. To get there, go past the Coonoor Municipal Bus Stand, take the road on the right named ‘Kanni Mariamman Kovil Street’. Follow the road for a kilometer past a masjid and a temple till you reach the fork marked ‘Acres Wild Farm’.

Contact +91-94432-32621 or +91-423-223-2621 www.acres-wild.com

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5 Contact courses@globaladjustments.com for more details on corporate training requirements.

From Chandigarh to California At Global Adjustments 1 Enhancing CQ all the way- americans and indians learning about each other

We have heard of IQ (intelligence quotient) and EQ (emotional quotient). We might have even heard of SQ (spirituality quotient) and PQ (personality quotient). But what about CQ for cultural quotient? In a world where boundaries are fast disappearing and world cultures are interacting with each other like never before, CQ has suddenly been catapulted into the limelight. For us, at Global Adjustments, where 18 years of our business has been about enhancing CQ to foster better understanding for doing business and living in India, this is just a long overdue affirmation of what we believe makes the world tick. A recent proof of this was our cross-cultural training team’s programmes at California and Chandigarh.

At California, GA had a historical session at the leading business school there with a ‘This India Business’ session. Co-founders Ranjini Manian and Joanne Grady Huskey conducted a four-hour workshop for participants from seven different nationalities.

Through interactive videos and group exercises, the session offered valuable and practical India insights on doing business in India “GA provided us with an exceptional introduction to India which better positions us for success” was how the Assistant Dean described the session, while another said, “Information on Indian culture and background was extremely helpful. I have travelled to India a few times, but learnt a lot today that I didn’t know”.

Around the same time, at Chandigarh, a team of IT professionals at Winshuttle were immersed in a session on building cross-cultural intelligence, giving participants a comprehensive overview of working effectively with their counterparts in the United States and Europe. Said Shilpa Dadhwal, Senior QE Manager, “It was really nice to understand the cultural differences across the world and know how to handle them”, while her colleague, Abhishek Jain, Program Manager, said, “I enjoyed and learned a lot and will definitely use some of this at work”. 1

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Global citizen

by Neil Miller

Group focus

1 The idea of belonging to a ‘group’ in India is a great asset in a nation where things are impossible to get done on your own One of the key values of India that we teach in our courses is the idea of Group. When a typical Westerner looks at a person, they see an individual who makes her own choices and decisions and is trying to make it in this world on her own just like “the rest of us”. This is a grossly inaccurate view in India. When seeing a typical Indian, you should get used to not seeing one person, but a few hundred.

Every Indian is born with a network of minimally one hundred people who will be with them for their entire life.

This community exists to provide stability, protection, and anything you could ever need. Out of work? Call your uncle’s company and see if they can help. Need admission in a school?

Find a relative who knows a decision maker. A born-in network is a great asset to have in a nation where things are impossible to get done on your own. Over a lifetime, your community can expand beyond your genetic family as you age to include classmates and co-workers who become very close.

However, groups come with a high level of obligation as well. When you get an invitation to a wedding from someone in your community, you must always go. When someone needs to call in a favour, you can’t say no. Once you are in the

group, you are there to stay. You are always identified with that group and all of its quirks and reputations. A question such as who you marry is not only an individual one but one which will profoundly affect the group.

Growing up in the United States, I used to fight this idea of Group. I thought it would be better to casually float from circle to circle without ever having to commit to any particular one. Many Americans have an aversion to being “labelled” as a part of any particular group. We are individuals and refuse to let our identity be contained in someone else’s definition. My distaste for groups even went as far as not wanting to identify myself as “American”.

However, during this last Fourth of July, as I walked around the office whistling “Hail to the Chief”, I realised how much India has changed my thinking on this topic. After seeing both the ups and downs of groups, I’m more convinced that it is better to belong to a group than to try to tough it out on your own. Your group will never be perfect and will embarrass you and might never exactly be what you want it to be, but it’s worth every second. Embrace your group – even if it’s the kind of group that doesn’t like being in a group! 1

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GLOBAL WELLNESS SERIES

Can Cure 1 Dr. Rajan Ranjan Mohapatra, HOD Medical Oncology, talks about the causes and effects of cancer and the recent strides its cure has taken in the medical fraternity What causes cancer?

When the growth of cells in the body is out of control and cells divide too rapidly, carcinomas or cancer is caused. It can develop in almost any organ or tissue, such as the lung, colon, breast, skin, bones, or nerve tissue. Sedentary lifestyle, Genetic triggers, Smoking and intake of Tobacco products, Intake of High Fat/ Spicy food are leading reasons for onset of Cancer in humans.

What are its symptoms?

Most times, cancer symptoms go unnoticed till the later stages. For instance, in blood-related cancers, commonly called Leukemia, the symptoms mask themselves as ordinary tiredness or weakness. Thus, it is advisable to periodically screen oneself for the disease. Global Cancer Institute offers preventive/ early detection cancer screening packages with tests such as Pap Smear for Cervical Cancer, Chest X-Ray for Lung Cancer, Prostate Specific Antigen for Prostate Cancer, Breast Examination and Mammography for Breast Cancer, along with other specific radiology imaging and lab diagnostic tests.

Are there any cures?

Medical Oncology in recent times has seen a paradigm shift with the introduction of Targeted therapy or Biological therapy, which, in combination with Chemotherapy, has induced better treatment efficacy with reduced side effects.

Stem Cell Transplant, earlier called Bone Marrow Transplant, now comes as shots in the arm which augments well for better patient outcomes. Stem Cells are primitive cells which are used to regenerate new desired cells and have been increasingly and successfully used to cure various diseases. 1 Disclaimer: This series aims at understanding the nature of the disease. It is essential to consult a doctor to eliminate the problem.

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Holistic living

by Eknath Easwaran

5 Join Us Every Saturday India Immersion Centre in Chennai facilitates a weekly spiritual fellowship group following Easwaran’s Eight Point Programme of Meditation.

Email us for more information at globalindian@globaladjustments.com.

If you are in other cities, visit www.easwaran.org for e-satsangs.

Personal Matters 1 Celebrating differences by building bridges of patience, kindness and love is what melts conflict, bringing people closer together and making relationships succeed

We expect professional and financial success to require time and effort. Why do we take success in our relationships for granted? Why should we expect harmony to come naturally just because we are in love?

Naturally there are going to be differences when two people are in love. Even identical twins have differences of opinion, and they come from the same combinations of genes and the very same background. Why should two people from, say, New York City and Paris, expect life together to be smooth sailing?

When irritations or conflicts occur in a relationship, my advice is, don’t move away. Don’t say, “I am not going to talk to you; I don’t want to see you.” Instead, that is the time to say, “I am going to get closer to you anyway. I am going to try to put your welfare first.”

There is a very close connection between patience, kindness, and love. Yet this word “kindness” is so simple – so humble perhaps – that we seem to have forgotten what it means. It opens a great avenue of love. Most of us can be kind under certain circumstances – at the right time, with the right people, in a certain place. If we find ourselves unable to be kind, we may simply stay away. We avoid someone, change

jobs, leave home. But in life we often have to move closer to difficult people instead of moving away.

I believe that it comes naturally to us to want to contribute to the welfare of those we love. But I am enough of a realist to understand that there are obstacles that stand in the way of the free flow of concern and compassion for those around us. If we understand these obstacles, we will be better prepared to overcome them.

In most disagreements, it is really not ideological differences that divide people. It is often self-will, lack of respect, putting ourselves first instead of the other person.

Sometimes all that is required is listening with respect and attention to the other person’s point of view.

Instead, most of us carry around a pair of earplugs, and the minute somebody says something we don’t like, we stuff our ears until we can start talking again. Watch yourself the next time you find you are quarrelling with someone you love. Try to listen calmly with complete attention, even if you don’t like what the other person is saying. Try it and see.

Often the action will be like that of a play. For a while there is the “rising action”: his temper keeps going higher, her language becomes more heated; everything is heading for a

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Photo Madeleine Holly, Australia

climax. But often enough, the ending is a surprise. The other person begins to quiet down. His voice becomes gentler, her language kinder – all because you have not retaliated or lost your respect. Whatever happens, you walk away feeling better about yourself. You have stayed kind, kept your cool, not let anger push you around. The taste of freedom that brings is worth any amount of practice.

In personal relationships, most of us are far from free.

We are always wondering how the other person is going to react – always fearing an attack, a snub, or perhaps just indifference. So we have all kinds of ego-defenses – moats of suspicion, drawbridges of diffidence, walls of rigidity, and several inexplicable trapdoors. With all of these barriers, we expect to sit in our citadel undisturbed, the ruling monarch of our realm. But just the opposite is true. In fact, the more defenses we have, the more insecure we feel, because it is these defenses that prevent us from moving closer to others.

When we practice giving our best without getting caught up in others’ attitudes and reactions, we find that they often begin to lower their defenses, too. Little by little, centimetre by centimetre, the walls begin to come down. Then they too can give their best to the relationship without anxiety or fear.

If just one person in a group is always on guard, it is natural for everyone else to raise their defenses also. It becomes a reflex. As soon as we see someone who is on guard, we say, “He makes me feel uncomfortable.” We retreat into our citadel, draw up the bridge, close the trapdoors, and wait until he goes away. But the secure person, the person who is comfortable with herself and tries to remember the needs of others, makes everyone else comfortable as well.

In my early days of teaching in San Francisco, someone in my audience once asked, “You are an educated, cultured, enlightened person. Do you believe in hell? Do you believe in heaven?”

“I have seen people in hell,” I replied. “And I have seen one or two people in heaven, too.”

If you look back upon your own life – at the times when you were filled with anger, when your mind was in turmoil, when you couldn’t sleep – you have been a visitor to hell. But in those rare moments of self-forgetfulness that come to all of us, when you forget your petty, personal desires in helping your family or community or country, you pay a brief visit to heaven right here on earth. 1 Reprinted with permission from Take Your Time: The Wisdom of Slowing Down by Eknath Easwaran.

Copyright The Blue Mountain Center of Meditation, P.O. Box 256, Tomales, CA 94971. www.easwaran.org

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Photo Secondo Balducci, Italy

Myth & Mythology

by Devdutt Pattannaik

Shepherding Mindsets

1 The root of corruption lies in the public domain, making sheep of shepherds and shepherds of sheep. And to think it all began with you and me

The similarities between the Exodus in the Bible and the story of post-independence India are striking. In 1947, we broke free from the tyranny of the pharaoh. No more would we be slaves of the British. No more would we suffer the whip of the Raj. No more would we build their pyramid. We had set ourselves free.

The founding fathers of the land acting as prophets revealed the Promised Land for us, the land of milk and honey where there would be equality and justice for all. And we began our trek in its direction, through the wilderness, with no map, with few resources, but a lot of faith.

But freedom was not complete freedom.

There were rules – the commandments, our Constitution – that had to be adhered to if we were to ever reach the Promised Land.

Everyone had to follow this rule. It is we, the many tribes of India, who agreed to be the sheep. It is we, through the process of democracy, who made ourselves God and put forth the commandments. It is we, once again through the process of democracy, who

appointed the legislative, the executive, the judiciary as our shepherds.

But in the Biblical construct, the shepherd was also sheep, bound by the law. A prophet was not above the commandments. This has not been so in India. In the past 60 years, our shepherds have assumed they are above the commandments. They can do as they please: break, bend and ignore laws to their own convenience. Our prophets have become pharaohs.

Our Promised Land has been forgotten. They are busy building their own pyramids.

The sheep of India have had enough. We have turned on the shepherd. What has gone wrong? It is the absence of faith. Faith in whom? God. Who is God in a democracy? It is the people.

Anyone who reads the Bible identifies himself, or herself, with the faithful and with the prophet. No one sees himself or herself as the pharaoh. We all take ourselves to be good and righteous and noble. We are the victims and we want to be heroes. But we are never the villains. Outside is the goat, outside is the wolf, but inside is the sheep and the shepherd.

But is that really the case?

We seek to control what we have no faith in. We get controlled when others don’t have faith in us. Don’t we enjoy controlling? Don’t we hate being controlled? Don’t we enjoy demanding faith? But how many of us work towards commanding faith? And how many of us have faith in others?

We all want to be in charge of our own destinies. We refuse to toe the line like stupid sheep; we find it disempowering. Yet, we fear the forest and its predators. So we clamour for shepherds.

People need to be led, but I do not like to follow. The world is wonderful so long as I am the shepherd and everyone else is sheep. And this private mindset is the root of public corruption. That is why we wander the wilderness and have not yet found the Promised Land. 1 This article originally appeared in the Sunday Midday, August 2011.

Reprinted with permission from www.devdutt.com

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1 We follow the British Deputy High Commissioner’s wife, Jill Beckingham, as she walks in the footsteps of history, recreating magic by helping the underprivileged

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Trailing the Mahatma

Give to India

by Shefali Ganesh

3 Charity Runs across India The Airtel Delhi Half Marathon Ideated by the Uday Foundation, this run generates awareness and funds for various causes. Other than the normal runs, there is also a wheel chair event for 2.5 km. www.udayfoundationindia.org/ airtel-delhi-half-marathon-2013/

The Wipro Chennai Marathon A much-anticipated event in the city, it consists of a full marathon, half marathon and a 10 km run.

The marathon is organised by Chennai Runners and Wipro Technologies in aid of ‘United Way of Chennai’, which aims to improve lives in Tamil Nadu. www.thewiprochennaimarathon.com

The Bengaluru Midnight Marathon Organised by the Rotary Bengaluru IT Corridor, more than 4,000 participants run at midnight in a first-of-its-kind event in Bengaluru. Since 2007, the event has aided several community projects in health care, rural livelihood programmes and more. www.midnightmarathon.in

The Standard Chartered Mumbai Marathon This is India’s largest charity platform for non-profit organisations to raise funds for their projects.

The official charity partner is ‘United Way of Mumbai’ and the causes the run will aid include arts, culture, sports, civic and community development. www.procamrunning.in/scmm/

The many people living in poverty in India that Jill Beckingham came across set her thinking on what she could do for them.

Mahatma Gandhi’s historic walk for freedom, the Dandi Salt March, was the idea that she hit upon. Taking on the 357 km walk from Ahmedabad to Dandi, as was done by the Mahatma eight decades ago, Jill launched her ‘India-UK Friendship Walk’ in 2010. It took her two weeks and she managed to raise Rs. 72 lakh, which was donated to six charities, three each in Mumbai and Gujarat. Then, as the cliché goes, there was no stopping Jill.

The ‘Footsteps 4 Good’ charity fundraiser run evolved from the 2010 walk, with the aim of getting more people involved and helping more NGOs. The first event in 2011 roped in many corporate supporters and saw 700 participants at the 10 km walk in Mumbai.

The year 2012 saw the fundraiser run grow more than double with 2,500 participants!

Held annually on October 2, Mahatma Gandhi’s birth anniversary, the event also coincidentally marks the beginning of the Joy of Giving week. And giving unconditionally is what this charity run is about.

The event has a walk and a run for both men and women. Jill explains, “Anyone can take part in the run or walk, with just the condition of having to donate to any one of the listed charities a minimum amount of Rs.2000.”

She hopes the number of participants will go up to 5,000 this year. The prize money for three winners each in the men’s and women’s category is being sponsored by a corporate and will eventually be donated by the winner, directly to a registered charity.

Supporting the cause, Jill has the Mahatma’s great grandson, Tushar Gandhi, and Indian actor, Boman Irani flagging off the 2013 run.

On the list of registered NGOs are Mumbai Mobile Creche, Toybank, Muktangan, Magic Bus and more. For those who wish to participate in other cities, the good news is that Footsteps 4 Good will also be held in Pune, Baroda and Kolkata this year. 1

5 Join the many who want to make a difference on October 2 at 7 a.m. for the 10km run or walk at Bandra Kurla Complex, Mumbai.

Footsteps 4 Good is based in Mumbai, email mail@footsteps4good.org for more details or log on to www.footsteps4good.org

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india • srilanka • maldives • and beyond

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ADVERTISE

IN T HIS MAGAZINE “Culturama has select and classy advertisements. We are happy to advertise in Culturama as we have seen numerous first time guests, many of whom have recently relocated to Chennai, visiting our hotel” – Roop Chadda, Sr. Vice President, Advertiser's annual contract feedback

Reach thousands of expatriates and Indians through Culturama, India’s only cultural magazine for expatriates.

E mai l : cul turama@ gl obal adj ustments. com Websi te: w w w.gl obal adj ustments.com

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Festivals of the month

Raksha Bandhan August 21

Photo Candice Gibory, France

Raksha Bandhan is when brothers promise to protect their sisters, while sisters pray for the brothers’ well-being. Symbolically signified through the sacred thread or Rakhi tied on the brother’s wrist, Raksha Bandhan literally means the ‘Bond of Protection’. The ceremony, predominantly celebrated in North India, can vary in its elaborateness from community to community. Usually, the brother is seated on a chair, and the sister brings a plate with some sweets, the rakhi, red kumkum powder and rice for good luck, and a small lamp. After the rakhi is tied, the brother is supposed to give his sister gifts, which is mostly cash. Over the years, this popular tradition has cut across caste and religion, with women tying rakhis to anyone they consider a brother in their life. A famous story from Indian history is of the Hindu Queen Karnavati, who warded off an invasion by sending a rakhi to Muslim Emperor Humayun.

3 Make your own rakhi check out http://tinyurl.com/lb9b2m4.

You could also buy them readymade from stores.

Janmashtami August 28 , Lord Krishna s birth anniversary is celebrated as Janmashtami. Lord Krishna was the eighth avatar of Lord Vishnu, and is hailed as a philosopher and teacher. Hindus celebrate this festival in different ways across the country: South India welcomes the little lord into their homes by drawing baby footprints using rice flour; western India celebrates his mischievous childhood by ‘pot breaking’ contests, where pots are filled with his favourite food, butter and curd, and elaborate human pyramids are formed to break the pot, tied high up on a pole; northern India, especially Dwaraka, has decked up temples and cultural activities galore.

3 Take part in the three-day cultural programmes hosted by the ISKCON temple in Mumbai and the rest of India. Visit the Dwaraka temple to relive Krishna’s childhood through the ‘Rasa Leelas’ or stories of Krishna through dramas.

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India writes

iREAD

Romantic Words If Milan Vohra’s first book was lauded as India’s version of the Mills and Boon series, here are a few more authors to add to that list: Sudeep Nagarkar

When a friend chanced upon Sudeep’s diary that recorded his failed relationship, the friend urged him to convert it into a book. The result was Few Things Left Unsaid that has sold a million copies to date. Sudeep then went on to write two more books, also inspired from real-life incidents. He is also a motivational speaker.

Ravinder Singh

reviewed by Babette Verbeek What is it about?

A group of friends from New Delhi make a pact at the beginning of their twenties to get back together and party once they hit thirty. Ten years later, when the heroine of the book – Lara Bagai – is about to turn thirty, time has come to live up to this pact. The friends flock together from all over the world to a rented house in their old neighbourhood for a week of partying. They enter the house as singles but in a matter of days, accompanied by a lot of confusion and at times denial, romance blossoms.

An MBA graduate, Ravinder’s short career, before he left it all to become a full-time writer, includes five years in Infosys Technologies and a stint at Microsoft. A personal tragedy prompted him to write his first book, I Too Had a Love Story, which became a national bestseller.

Ravinder has authored two more romantic novels after that – Can Love Happen Twice and Like It Happened Yesterday.

Nikita Singh

At 20, while studying Pharmacy in college, Nikita’s first book hit the stands – Love @ Facebook.

This story of a 19-year-old girl’s infatuation for someone she met at Facebook caught young Who is it by?

India’s imagination. After that, Milan Vohra works in the advertisement industry by day and Nikita has written several books on romance, and currently works writes by night. Currently based in Bengaluru, she’s originally as the editor of Grapevine India, a community of authors from Delhi. Only after turning forty and winning a writing encouraging new talent.

contest by a well-known publisher of romantic novels she did discover that she really wanted to pursue writing as well. TickTock We’re 30 is her second novel.

Why should I read it?

Read it because laughter and romance splash off the pages.

The vivid descriptions of the gang members and their sparky dialogues race the reader through the book. It also provides a peek into the world of the young middle-class urban Indians in their thirties, busy building a career and personal life, both abroad and in India’s metros. Another attraction for lovers of the genre is Vohra’s contemporary Indian answer – Nishad – to Jane Austen’s Mr. Darcy.

Durjoy Dutta

Author of eight romantic fiction novels and founder of Grapevine India Publishers, Durjoy Dutta wrote his first book in his final year of college titled Of Course I Love You! which became a bestseller. In fact, his last four books have debuted as bestsellers and he was ranked one of the highest selling Indian authors in 2011.

He was also recognised as a Young Achiever by Times of India in 2009.

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Same difference 1 Celebrating the obvious and the not-so-obvious contrasts of India

The Swing Shift Most palatial ancient Indian homes had sturdy swings made out of teak wood with ornate brass carvings on the chain, hanging close to the open courtyard. The richer the home, the broader the swing and more detailed the carvings. Most up-market resorts have retained this aspect of old-world India,

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with swings strategically placed to make the most of the natural breeze whooshing in through large doors and windows, and not so much for the view. Throw in a soft mattress and you have the perfect space for a dreamy afternoon siesta, like this expat is just settling in to, or for long ponderings of how a simple swing holds sway over our mind and body, right from childhood, like this other picture.

So, for millions of India’s children, who do not have access to play gyms and parks and recreation centres and malls and theatres and amusement parks and playgrounds, make-shift anything becomes the norm.

Using simple rope used to draw in the fishing nets, these children by the beach have fashioned quite a fun-looking swing tied ingeniously to the bow of the boat, giving just enough length for a short swing.

Indian innovation at its best or ‘jugaad’ as the corporate world calls it! Who said fun was a prerogative of the haves?

And a swing, by any other name, or shape, or material, would smell and taste and feel just the same. 1

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Realty bytes The House Whisperer

by Anita Krishnaswamy For all those niggling questions you might have on housing and realty in India

1 Being new to India and still getting used to the heat, how do I manage my power consumption, given the deficit and its growing cost in India? (American tenant in Chennai) As India is a developing country, electricity is a major issue.

Consumption often exceeds production and many towns and smaller villages go without electricity for many hours a day to facilitate power supply to larger industrial cities such as Chennai, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Kolkata and Hyderabad.

Usage of home appliances contributes to the majority of household electricity consumption. Choosing your appliances smartly is one way you can control your consumption. For instance, the weather in your city plays a big role. In land-locked cities like Delhi, which is a lot less humid than the south, aircoolers are a judicious choice rather than air-conditioners.

Creating a false ceiling will also help in retaining and regulating room temperature. Though newer constructions are wise to this advantage, and it might be a requirement only in older constructions.

Traditionally, Indians do not use air-conditioners much, despite the relentless heat. Houses in India are not centrally air-conditioned, which means they do not come with a built-in heating or cooling system, unlike homes abroad. Many of our

clients prefer installing air-conditioners in their houses, which contributes to a major chunk of monthly power consumption.

With the above said deficit in supply, the cost of consumption doubles after a set limit. This limit is formalised by the state’s electricity board and varies depending on each state in India.

To avoid large bills, we strongly encourage our clients to simply be more conscious of what and how they use power in their homes. Simple practices like switching off appliances when not in use, such as water heaters, air-conditioners, lights and television sets, will make a huge difference. The average electricity bill for a three-bedroom apartment usually works up to Rs.8,000—10,000, whereas the same for an independent house might be higher.

Electricity bills are paid bi-monthly in India and the amount being paid might seem extensive when paid together.

Having an idea about the power situation in the country and the cost of electricity before relocation can give you a comprehensive idea about how to manage power without having to spend too much. 1

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4 Chennai Property OMR Brand new apartment for rent

ECR Brand new villa for rent

• 4 bedrooms, 1,865 sq.ft.

• High Floor with fantastic views • 24/7 Security and power back-up • All amenities like pool, gym, clubhouse • One of the best Gated Community in Chennai

• 6 bedrooms, 6,000 sq.ft.

• Quiet neighborhood • Modern architecture • Full power back-up

Teynampet Brand new flat in Central Chennai

OMR Villa house in gated community for rent

• 3 bedrooms and study • Contemporary design • 100% power back-up • Fully equipped kitchen

• 3 bedrooms and study, 2,850 sq.ft.

• Serene surroundings • Children’s play area • 24-hour security, power back-up • Pool, Gym, Tennis Court, Clubhouse

Kottivakkam Apartment in ECR

Kottivakkam Charming house for rent

• Exclusively for expats • Posh area close to the beach • Near KFC, Mc Donald’s • 3 bedrooms, 100% Power back-up

• 3 bedrooms and study, 2,200 sq.ft.

• Aesthetically designed • Proximity to schools and shops • Close to the beach • Lovely rooftop terrace

Neelankarai Gated Community in ECR

Neelankarai Modern House for rent

• 3 bedrooms • 3,400 sq.ft.

• Swimming pool, garden, gym • 100% Power Back up

• Aesthetically designed 5,600 sq.ft.

• Brand new with 5 bedrooms • Guest suite • Home theatre room and cozy attic • Office room on ground floor •

ECR Brand New Luxury Villa

Client's Speak

• 4 bedrooms, 6,000 sq.ft.

• Contemporary architecture • Lots of natural light • Playroom, pantry and home theatre • Pool and generator

Global Adjustments exceeded my expectations in all respects – responsiveness, professionalism and transparency. They truly understand the needs of their clients, go above and beyond to meet those needs, and truly want to ensure that they adjust to India. Thank you for your commitment and dedication to your clients.

Brenda Rubin, Director, Deloitte

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4 Bengaluru Property South Bengaluru Spacious Apartment for Rent

North Bengaluru Apartment for Rent

• Terrace garden • Fully furnished • Club amenities

• Semi Furnished Apartment • 4 bedrooms • Club amenities • Gated community

Central Bengaluru Large Apartment for Rent

South Bengaluru Independent House for Rent

• 5 bedrooms • Well spaced apartment • Excellent interiors • Fully furnished

• Semi furnished • Separate gym facility • Centrally located

4 Delhi Property Delhi – Vasant Vihar Duplex apartment for Rent

Gurgaon – Belaire Property for rent

• Four bedrooms • Aesthetically designed, with character • Air-conditioned, 100% power back-up • Terrace

• 4 bedrooms • Centrally air-conditioned.

• 100% power back-up, security and club house • Fully fitted kitchen with all white goods.

Noida Independant house for Rent

Gurgaon – Central Park Spacious Apartment for Rent

• 5 bedrooms • Swimming pool and movie theatre in basement • Air-conditioned with power back-up • Nice location, quiet street

• 4 bedrooms • Centrally air-conditioned • 100% security and power back-up • Clubhouse, gym and pool • Children’s play area

4 Mumbai Property Bandra West Large Apartment for Rent

Cuffe Parade Furnished Apartment for Rent

• 3 bedrooms, 1,800 sq.ft.

• Marble flooring, modular kitchen • Modular kitchen • Car parking space and servant’s quarters

• 2 bedrooms • 2,008 sq.ft.

• Car parking space • Servant’s quarters

Bandra West Fully furnished Apartment for Rent

Powai Spacious Apartment for Rent

• 4 bedrooms, 2,400 sq.ft.

• Modular Kitchen • Marble flooring • Car parking space and servant’s quarters

• 4 bedrooms, 2,650 sq.ft.

• Modular kitchen, marble flooring • Gym, two car parking spaces • Servant’s quarters

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