RESTAURANT REVIEW
PHOTOS BRIAN SIAMBI
that fill the garden. The menu, such that it is, comprises of ingredients for your Koroga, plenty of starters, drinks and so on. To start, as Chef Alex began to set up his cooking station of ingredients and spices, a plate of tender, moist and juicy Poussin Chicken Wings, which was deep fried, was instantly inhaled. I immediately ordered seconds. The Malai Chicken arrived beautifully caramelised with honey brown bits while still juicy. Topped with a sprinkling of fresh coriander, this dish was also devoured in a matter of minutes. My favourite stuffed flatbread from the region, Keema Chapati, arrived in a large rectangle, subdivided into many pieces. The stuffing of minced lamb with onions, garlic and a bunch of spices was sandwiched between two layers of chapati, cooked until slightly crisp. Finally the Stuffed Mushrooms, cooked at high heat to sear the exterior until golden brown, (delightfully) arrived with some cheese and were steaming hot. Beware of the explosion of juices in your mouth, because it might just
burn unsuspecting tongues. You can smell what may well be the best restaurants in the world long before you step through the door. This is true when it comes to Koroga restaurants as well. It’s not the harsh smells of lighter fluid or bitter charcoal. Instead Koroga aromas are sweeter and with subtle fragrant traces of spices. By cooking on a jiko— a traditional metal or clay cooking container used with charcoal or small pieces of wood— the food is always gentle and enticing thanks to its slow-cooking prowess. Perhaps you regard yourself as something of a good cook; you know about the power of indirect heat; you understand that patience is important when cooking with spices. At Mint Shack, you can show those skills off. But, if you’re not confident with your abilities, bring your own chef or better yet, ask for one at Mint Shack to cook-up a delicious Koroga at no extra cost, while the restaurant’s Head Chef Pravin keeps whetting your palate with delicious appetizers. As our Mutton Keema and Chicken Masala bubbled away, owner Binai
It’s the kind of place that keeps Nairobi human.
Shah introduced me to some avid Koroga-goers. Past the bar, near the back of the property, was a large group of friends who’ve known each other for 40 years. The lively bunch gathers once a month to catch-up and they bring their own chef to watch over the pots as they concentrate on the chatter and bursts of laughter. Next to them another group of men, much younger, surrounded a poker table while their self-Koroga bubbled away in the corner. As I headed back to our banda, my nose smelled distinctive whiffs of garlic, ginger, onions, Garam Masala,
coriander, cumin, chili, cinnamon, bay leaves, cloves and cardamom. Gathered around the pots were my friends and the colourful Masala Dabba (spice tiffin) was still open just in case Chef Alex needed to add more spice. The sound of bubbling pots and occasional stirring is the perfect ambient music for interesting conversations that take me around the world and challenge me on topics like food, film, travel and even new business ideas. By the time you’ve laughed enough, you’re hungry and more often than not, that’s the time your Koroga will also be ready. Our table became instantly quiet as we blissfully dug in. At one point a neighbouring table decided to send over a sample of their Koroga dish. As a novice Korogagoer, the feeling of community was amazing, whether it is among your guests or with complete strangers. And that’s the defining moment when I realised that Koroga is very different. It’s all about intuition, interaction, trying new things, bonding, being free and eating well. It’s the kind of place that keeps Nairobi human.
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