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TEXT MALCOLM BIGYEMANO
SAY CHEESE We sit down with Salim Karmali, proprietor of Holland Dairy and self-professed cheese-lover about cheese, its roots, its importance and its future in Uganda.
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he Netherlands has a special place in cheese history (being, amongst other things, the home of Gouda) and this heritage has made itself a home in Kampala at the Holland Dairy in Kamwokya. I chatted online with Salim Karmali, Holland Dairy’s proprietor and cheese-lover about why Gouda is such a big deal, cheese’s place on the Ugandan dinner table and why Rolex is the new pizza. Mr. Karmali states his mission is to consistently produce the best cheese in East Africa, as well as to get more people to eat it. Are Ugandans not eating that much cheese? Apparently not. “In Holland alone, the Dutch consume 17 kg per person per year on average... In Africa it's probably less that 200g per person”. That means Africans consume 1.18% of what the Dutch do. Not only are we missing out on the nutritional benefits which include a greater concentration of protein than plain milk, there are also social benefits.“[Cheese] has a way of bringing people together unlike any other milk product”, claims Mr. Karmali, “People simply love to talk around a cheese platter”. Holland Dairy’s cheese platters consist of a variety of Gouda flavours, including but not limited to, Natural Gouda, Cumin Gouda, Fenugreek Gouda, Piripiri Gouda, Garden Herb Gouda and Black Pepper Gouda. Seeing so much Gouda on this list and high on many lists of the most popular types of cheese in the world,
one must wonder; what’s so good about Gouda? Invented in a Dutch town of the same name, Gouda boasts a "very creamy texture and long lasting flavour. A bitter, sour, salty and umami (savoury) taste”, says Mr. Karmali, the flavour is balanced so it’s not too overbearing on the tastebuds. This balance of flavour not only makes Gouda a great introductory cheese for someone who has never tasted or enjoyed cheese, but also makes Gouda one of the most versatile cheeses in the world, used on everything from pizza to sandwiches to fondue” Mr. Karmali says. I didn’t know what fondue was before I Googled it, but wondered whether there were Ugandan dishes which cheese would make an ideal accompaniment for. A Rolex perhaps? "Funny you mention Rolex. We currently have a plan to try and encourage people to add cheese to their Rolexes” Mr. Karmali mentions, drawing parallels to the tradition of adding cheese to one’s omelette in France and other places. According to Mr. Karmali, adding cheese to omelettes provides “the perfect balance of salt and texture to the eggs and as the cheese melts, it leaves a nice string to every bite”. Given Rolex’s recent mainstream attention, Mr. Karmali says he sees Rolex as Uganda’s version of pizza, claiming, “It could really be a global food sensation”. The comparison is spot-on in more ways than one; pizza was initially seen as food for the working
class in Italy before it gained upward social mobility and global infamy and was originally prepared without cheese. "I think in Africa cheese is currently regarded as a luxury item in the house, where as in Europe, it is very rare that cheese is [a staple] not in the fridge,” Mr. Karmali explains. Part of the reason could be that while cheese is quite cheap in the West, the "cost of production in Uganda and Kenya and other African countries has forced cheese to be priced high hence making it too expensive for the middle class at times. This does have an affect [on] the market currently,” he admits. Mr. Karmali however, is optimistic that as the industry expands, production costs will go down, making cheese cheaper and more accessible for more people. Mr. Karmali states that making cheese cheaper and more accessible is his long term objective and seems hopeful that it will be achieved, “Cheese is a wonderful product and everyone deserves to enjoy [it]". One can tell that Mr. Karmali loves cheese and when asked what his earliest cheese memory is, he mentions he unknowingly ate snails topped with cheese for the first while spending a summer in France. "I remember forking the snail and a piece of cubed cheese, dipping it in mayonnaise and then asking what I just ate. The moment they said snail, I panicked! But it was too late, it was already headed to my
stomach” Mr. Karmali laughs as he recounts his memory. It’s a taste he came to enjoy, but ultimately is not his favourite cheese combination. “Bread and cheese” Mr. Karmali states is his favourite, which he says he can eat at any time of day. Unlike many other cheeses, if you want to spice up Gouda you can simply add any of your other favourite accompaniments to the cheese and make it as exciting as you want. “That’s part of its beauty” Mr. Karmali tells me, “[Gouda] allows the individual to create their own explosion of flavour in their mouth”. As all types of cheese vie for space at Ugandan dinner tables, Gouda stands out with some big advantages. It has name recognition, a mild flavour that may fit in better with what is already at the table and last, but not least, it has Salim Karmali and the team at Holland Dairy enthusiastically backing it. The future looks good for cheese in Uganda, and even better for Gouda.
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