ISSUE Nº
it's all about food The Art of Coffee
Madrid Style
Malta’s leading Chefs and their
Favourite Fish Recipes Gabriele Ferron
Italy’s King of Rice Olivia Vassallo
A Taste of Umbria
n i w
s e z i r p great 23 ge see pa
May 2011
04
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editorial
welcome!
Issue 4 May 2011
Editor Joséf Bonello
Editor at Large Mike Dimbleby
Creative Director Mark Portelli
Art Director Germán Perujo
Design & Production Germán Perujo, Alan Cachia, Kevin Barun, Matthew Debono.
Photography Matthew Debono at Executive Services and George Scintilla
In Cibus Veritas I am not usually one to usurp a quality attributed to my beloved wine and assign it to any other source of unbridled pleasure, but I have discussed my point with my god Bacchus before penning this and I am assured that he fully understands and endorses my views. You see, as I sat down to write this editorial, I couldn’t help but feel how frivolous it was to be jotting down my thoughts on food when so many other seemingly more important events were taking place around me. Osama bin Laden and his assassination, the awe-inspiring current divorce debate in Malta (where else?), Glen’s untimely elimination from the Eurovision Song Contest, the beatification of John Paul II to mention a few; all matters of massive international relevance. Not!
considered at all? These are but a very few of the remarks I have come across and some of which I shared myself on the matters in question. One does not know what to believe anymore! And yet, was there any doubt that the ravioli di ricotta al limone con pesci e crostacei e salsa del loro jus prepared by il Duomo’s Ciccio Sultano at Ta’ Frenc in Gozo sent my taste buds in a triplo salto mortale flip? Was there any suspicion that the effect that Gabriele Ferron’s risotto con gamberi e carciofo had on my palate was not for real? Was not the full impact of Andrew Pace’s pasta con bottarga di muggine or spaghetti alla colatura di alici on all of my sensory organs not credibly visible to at least five witnesses at Salvino’s last week?
As I ponder further however, all seem to be riddled with doubt: was Osama (almost wrote Obama there!) really killed? Buried at sea? Is this divorce battle even necessary? Are arguments on both sides not manipulated by poorly-veiled agendas? Did Glen not deserve to go through? Should Malta even participate in this farce? Is beatification still relevant today? If so, are miracles performed an issue to be
Good food lies not! And from this day forward, I am sure to be forgiven for relying more on fine cuisine than on news items of dubious origin.
Buon appetito!
Coordinator Alison Vassallo
Advertising Alberto Serra (Sales Manager) Alison Vassallo
Published by Executive Services Ltd. 183/2 Constitution Street, Mosta Tel.: 2142 2171/2/3 Email: cibus@eslmalta.com
Cibus enjoys a circulation in excess of 40,000 distributed with The Sunday Times. While making every effort to satisfy our clients and readers, Executive Services Ltd. cannot be held responsible for errors or omissions in advertising or Editorials.
it’s all about food
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contents
it's all about food
May 2011
contents 10 15 25 33 41 48 52
cover image: Matthew Debono at Executive Services
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issue 4/ May 2011
taste for travel THE ART OF COFFEE, MADRID STYLE
The Arte de Café, Madrid.
fish buying tips CHOOSING FISH TIPS
How to recognise fresh fish
celebrity chef MINDY KOBRIC
Fusing food, fashion, travel and fun
traditional tastes FENEK TIME
It’s fenek time with Donald Caligari Conti
personality AL BANO AL MOLO
The best combination, wine and song
travel THE BALCONY OF UMBRIA
Olivia Vassallo shares a taste of Umbria
feature RICE ARCHANGEL
Gabriele Ferron, the King of Rice
it’s all about food
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cibus promo
READY, GET Whether you're coping with lactose intolerance, dairy allergy or if you simply want to reduce the amount of dairy foods in your diet, there are zillions of well-reputed products to choose from... The delicious range of milk and yogurt alternatives and tasty desserts are carefully prepared with the nutritious bean power of soya and are naturally low in saturated fat. They are also free from artificial sweeteners, colours or preservatives. So there's little to feel guilty about and lots to feel good about. And that's principally down to the fact that soya is a natural source of healthy plant based protein and contains lots of other goodies like calcium and vitamins important to an active and healthy life. The soya protein found in soya foods can also help to naturally lower cholesterol levels, another great reason to incorporate soya into your daily diet. Start each day with a deliciously light creamy taste ~Alpro soya, Granovita and Provamel organic soya drinks are a delicious alternative to dairy milk and make the perfect partner poured over breakfast cereals, in smoothies and cups of tea or coffee. Nutritious and delicious, the yogurt alternatives (also known as Alpro yofu) are made with soya bean goodness and are naturally low in saturated fat. They contain absolutely no artificial sweeteners, colours or preservatives and taste great on their own, with fresh fruit or cereal as part of a healthy breakfast.
Why not try a healthier alternative to cream? Alpro’s soya cuisine has 45% less fat than single cream which you can now enjoy as your healthier indulgence poured over fruit or desserts or used in cooking to create delicious soups and sauces. We all like to feel light and bouncy. We all have a sweet tooth and love delicious desserts but don't like feeling bad about it. The creamy desserts are carefully prepared with the nutritious goodness of the soya bean and no artificial sweeteners, colours or preservatives. You can choose from truly scrumptious creamy vanilla, smooth intense chocolate or soft caramel and don’t feel guilty, just feel good!
6*
it’s all about food
cibus promo
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T SET, GO DAIRY FREE When it comes to finding delicious tasting cream cheese, Tofutti Creamy Smooth range of non-dairy soya spread and cheese is the answer to your problems. Original, French Onion, Garlic, Herbs & Chives, Chopped Olives or Country Vegetables are ideal to use in all savoury dishes such as soups, dressings, pates and spreads in sandwiches, or on jacket potatoes. If you prefer you can add some delicious fruit or purees and use the Original variety in cakes such as cheesecake or in smoothies whereas the Sour Supreme can be used as an alternative to Sour Cream and Crème Fraiche.
What do you spread on your toast in the mornings? Provamel’s organic soya spread is an ideal alternative to butter. It’s smooth tasting and is the only soya-based organic fat that can be used for cooking and frying. And it is also delicious on bread! The delicious Provamel Organic rice milk has a light and refreshing flavour that appeals to the whole family. Naturally low in saturated fat and with no lactose or cows' milk proteins all the ingredients have been produced under ethical and ecologically responsible farming methods.
When it comes to comfort food, the mozzarella block, grated mozzarella, mozzarella style slices and cheddar style slices all have excellent melting properties in the oven, grill or microwave and make the most comforting pizza toast or wholesome pizza in a flash. And if you really love cheese, your next answer is Cheezly. A really tasty alternative to cheese, this range is free from animal ingredients ~ perfect news for vegetarians, vegans as well as people who are lactose or casein intolerant. What's more, there are no nasties. Cheezly is also free from hydrogenated fats, artificial colours and preservatives, cholesterol and GMOs. We have 3 varieties, Pepperjack, Blue Cheese Style and the award winning super melting Cheezly Soy Free Cheddar style cheese.
All the above products are suitable for people who are lactose intolerant, on a cows’ milk protein free diet, a cholesterol lowering diet, vegetarians and vegans alike, so whether you are 5 or 75, following a good diet can have a positive impact on the way you feel, and consequently and of more essence how much you may get out of it! (*In 2002 the Joint Health Claims Initiative stated that the inclusion of at least 25g of soya protein a day as part of a diet low in saturated fat can help to reduce cholesterol in the blood.)
These products are available from all leading supermarkets and health food shops
GOOD EARTH DISTRIBUTORS LIMITED T. 2143 1309 www.goodearth.com.mt
it’s all about food
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cibus promo
Giardino Italiano
restaurant words Joséf Bonello photos Matthew Debono
“Maggio, Maggio canto i colori, riempio i giardini e i prati di fiori; tutto è più bello e profumato ed anche il bosco si è risvegliato.” An apt Italian proverb provides the precise tone with which to introduce this new Italian restaurant which opened its doors in Dragonara Road in Paceville to lovers of good food in the early days of May. Praises have been sung the world over to the tune of Italian flirtatious flair and flawless flavour making it by far one of the most delicious cuisines one can savour. And Giardino Italiano promises just that. Its menu winds through many regions of Italy from Sicily to Liguria, through Campania and Tuscany. A refreshing and welcome difference from classic Italian restaurants in Italy is found in Giardino’s wine list. This list is compiled by the talented and knowledgeable Antonio Paladino who is a member of the Associazione Italiana Sommelier and sees a far more universal selection ranging from Maltese wines to other European selections and venturing further across the oceans whilst of course celebrating an extensive range of Italian vino. A definite attraction in this restaurant is the forno a legna pizza oven baking a colourful array of sumptuous looking pizzas with that much sought-after wood flavour which makes you come back for more. The flour used is a bit of a trade secret of this kitchen and is regularly flown in from Italy to be used by their Italian pizzaiolo. The striking selection of fresh fish is openly paraded on their luzzu-like chilled display whilst live Mantis Shrimps known as Cicale or Zoccole di mare swim in their very own aquarium in order to be kept fresher than fresh. Their Spaghetti Ricci (sea urchin) are said to be one of the restaurant’s top dishes whilst the Pizza Gioconda seems to be the only one in Malta to have pistachios among its ingredients that include the regular tomato and mozzarella as well as pancetta and zucchine. The Giardino’s list of dolci is a spectacle in itself, all created in-house at this typical family run restaurant. And in typical Italian seduction, it is not only available to patrons wishing to close off their feast on a sweet note, but one can actually choose a few juicy bits to take home. And as one would expect from an Italian eatery like Giardino Italiano, its fiore all’occhiello is its revitalising espresso which closes off one’s indulgence in true style.
Ristorante Giardino Italiano, Dragonara Road, Paceville T: 2742 5972 • E: dolcesicilia1@hotmail.com
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it’s all about food
taste for travel
THE ART OF COFFEE
Madrid yle Flying into Madrid for the national launch of the ‘Arte de Cafe’ seemed a good excuse for a trip. The cafe scene in this chic capital is for young and old alike.
My invitation to the recently opened Priorite Cafe was a major coup with all the national press of Spain and TV present. Within months of opening Cafe Priorite has become the hot spot to be seen in. Madrid elevenses consist of strong coffee, gossip, sweet cake or savoury bread with Iberian ham and chorizo salami. People watching on the plaza is an art into itself. If you are a dashing, suited Spaniard with dark glasses, it is a perfect place to watch the seĂąoritas. Eye candy has a new meaning here! Priorite Cafe at 42 Calle Montera is close to the junction of Gran Via and within a stilettoheeled walk of the Congress and best hotels. The driving force and owner is Josefa Maria Florez Alvarez, a young and very pretty seĂąorita with a flair and love of design and art that is seen throughout the interior design of Priorite. The upper floor has become a busy art gallery for local artists with regular evening events that have brought out local society. Leading Portuguese coffee company, Delta Cafes was launching a new product range of coffee cocktails in Spain, just in time for summer.
words Caroline Crutchley
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it’s all about food
During the civil war, its coffee products were smuggled
over the border to the coffee starved Spanish. With EU open borders; there is no need for that now. Coffee runs through the veins of the Portuguese, as they were the first to plant it in Brazil in 1727. King D JoĂŁo VI relocated to Brazil after fleeing from Napoleon and the first thing he did was distribute seeds to the local farmers. Therefore, the Brazilians acquired coffee and the King got his daily fix of caffeine. And as we know, there is an awful lot of coffee in Brazil. The barista is held in such high esteem that the Portuguese do not serve coffee at home after a meal. The guests are offered port and then everyone goes out for a coffee at the nearest cafe. The best sommeliers from Madrid restaurants were present. We squeezed tightly into the art gallery to see the barista do his thing. A top-trained barista is essential to master the steam bellowing shining steel machine coffee machine. Today we actually had two! With great coffee at hand, we watched as good coffee was transformed into great scrumptious coffee cocktails. Black coffee before our eyes was magically conjured into calorific treats. With line after line of cocktail glasses, it is obvious there may
taste for travel
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RECIPES TO TRY Magic Madrid Mojitos
Apple Coffee
Ingredients
Ingredients
• 3 measures of • • • •
espresso coffee Crushed ice 4 Sprigs of fresh mint 100 ml sparkling water Double measure of Havana white rum
Method
1 2 be some alcohol involved. But all the coffee cocktails were all topped with whipped cream. For the children there was syrup, popcorn and smarties. And if that was not sweet toothed enough caramel, biscuits and more whipped cream appeared. ‘For adults only’ and the Gadabout Girl’s ears pricked up. Hot strong coffee was shaken with crushed ice, fresh mint leaves and lashings of white Havana Rum were next on the tasting list. Fresh mint leaves added the finishing flair to the cream topping. Rather nice I must say and definitely my favourite. An ideal way to round off a summer meal. All well ‘coffeed’ up, it was time to socialise with all the bright young things. Good Spanish Rioja wine and finger food went down a treat as we chattered. The morning slipped into lunch and that is how it works in Madrid. With several Mojito coffees and wine inside me, it was time for a siesta. Much like an Irish coffee, you sip it through the cool cream and wait for the warming alcohol laden coffee to do its thing. Coffee that is a meal almost in itself. So if you are flying into Madrid, a priority is to be seen sipping coffee at Art Cafe Priorite. Welcome to the art of coffee - Madrid style.
3 4
Put the ingredients into a cocktail shaker. Get a good looking young barista to give it a good shake. Pour into a cocktail glass. Top with whipped cream and a sprig of mint.
• Apple Coffee • Espresso coffee • Cinnamon mixes
with a little condensed milk • Apple slices
Method
1 2
Layer the ingredients into the glass. Top with whipped cream.
Palomitas Coffee
Kids del Art
Ingredients
Ingredients
• • • •
coffee mixed (mocha) • Smarties
Caramel sauce Popcorn Espresso coffee Whipped cream
Method
1 2 3
Layer ingredients into the glass. Topped with whipped cream. Decorate with honey and popcorn.
• Pour into the glass • Hot chocolate and
Method
1 2
Pour into the glass. Decorate with smarties.
it’s all about food
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fish buying tips
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How to recognise
FRESH FISH words Darren Debono, Director, World Water Fisheries
Knowing how to choose fresh fish or seafood is a vital skill for a seafood cook. Unless you caught the fish yourself, you really have no way of knowing exactly how fresh it is. But buying fresh fish is easy if you know what to look for. Here are some tips:
Whole Fish (Red Snapper , Red Sea Bream, Sea Bass, Swordfish, Scorpion fish, Red Mullet etc… ) • First of all look for bright, clear eyes; the eyes are the windows to a truly fresh fish, for they fade quickly into gray dullness. Dull-eyed fish may be safe to eat, but they are past their prime. • Fish has to look shiny and metallicaly clean. Very importantly the smell of fish should be like clean water or a touch briny or even like cucumbers. Under no circumstances should you buy a nasty smelling fish. Cooking won’t improve it. • The gills should be a rich red. If the fish is old, they will turn the coulor of faded brick.
Fish fillets (Salmon Fillets, Grouper Fillet, and Cod fillet etc…) • When you come to fish fillets look for vibrant flesh. All fish fade as they age. If the fillet still has skin, that skin should look as pristine as the skin on an equally good whole fish – shiny and metallic. The smell test is especially important with fillets. They should have no pungent aromas. If there is liquid on the meat, the liquid should be clear, not milky. Milky liquid on a fillet is the first stage of rot. When pressing the meat with your finger it should be resilient enough so your indentation disappears. If your fingerprint remains, move on.
Live Things (Mussels, Clams, Lobsters, Oysters, Crab etc…) • The best way to choose live fish, Crab or Lobster is to look for activity. is it skulking in a corner or hanging motionless and panting? If so, don’t buy it. Shellfish are sold alive, so they should react to you. Put them on the countertop and back away for a moment. Then tap the shell: It should close tighter than it was. Oysters are a little tough to do this with, but clams and mussels will definitely react. You can also tell a dead shellfish after you’ve cooked them all. Dead ones do not open after being cooked. Throw them away.
Squid and Octopus These are almost always sold to the wholesaler pre-frozen, so you can buy them frozen. Both squid, commonly known as calamari, and its more richly flavoured cousin the octopus freeze exceptionally well. Again, if you can buy fresh squid and octopus – not to mention cuttlefish, do it! They are rare treats even at fine fish markets and should be appreciated as such. Like finfish, you should look first at their eyes, which should be clean and bright.
Conclusion:
Always buy fish at the finest fish market. These are the only places where turnover is so rapid that you can be assured of good quality. Best thing to do is to befriend the fishmongers and find out when the new stocks arrive. Plan on being there to meet it and buy then. You will be rewarded for your extra effort.
it’s all about food
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VER MENTINO • SAUVIGNON BLANC CHARDONNAY • TEMPR ANILLO MERLOT • SYR AH • CABERNET SAUVIGNON VIOGNIER LIMITED RELEASE CABERNET FR ANC LIMITED RELEASE
www.camilleriwines.com
fish recipes
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Cibus asked six talented chefs to share with us their favourite fish recipes, read on... Pasta with Vongole, Cozze & King Prawns
Garganelli, Calamari e Gamberi
CHARLES MEILAK COCKNEY’S RESTAURANT
CHARLES DEMANUELE PINTONINO RESTAURANT
INGREDIENTS: • 2 cloves of Garlic • Pinch dried mint • Pinch fish bouillon • 100gr fresh clams • 100gr fresh mussels • 2 medium king prawns METHOD: 1 Put finely chopped garlic in pan add clams, mussels, king prawns & dried ingredients and fry for 2 min on medium heat add white wine and simmer until clams and mussels open.
• Dash of white wine fresh herbs (mint & basil) • Salt and fresh pepper cherry tomatoes • 150 gr spaghetti
2 Add boiled pasta to fresh herbs and cherry tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper optional.
Cockney’s Bar & Restaurant, Marsamxett Wharf, Valletta. Tel: 2123 6065
INGREDIENTS: • 240 gr garganelli • 2 tbl spoons extra virgin olive oil • 200 gr calamari cut in cubes • 300 gr fresh peeled prawns METHOD: 1 In a pan put oil heat gently and add calamari for 3 minutes. 2 Add polpa and cook for another 3 minutes and add all the remaining ingredients.
• 1 tin polpa cooked and passed from blender • 80 ml fresh cream • Chillies.
3 Add boiled pasta for 4 minutes in a pan 4 Cook in a very low heat until it thickens.
Pintonino Restaurant, Vault 15, Valletta Waterfront. Tel: 2122 7773
it’s all about food
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cibus promo
Baked Stoned Bass with a Breaded Crust Shellfish Gratin, Almonds and Truffle Purée
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Pan Seared Blue Fin Tuna with Tomato Marmalade,
Caper Nut Brown Butter & Mixed Leaves tossed in Lemon Vinaigrette
VICTOR BORG AL MOLO RESTAURANT
INGREDIENTS: • 1kg stone bass(dott) fillet and cleaned. • 4 sliced bread without crust, and frozen. • 40 gr English mustard • 500 gr mixed shellfish off the shell. (clams, mussels, prawns.) • Finelly chopped shallot 2 cloves crushed garlic. • Chopped parsley. METHOD: 1 Spread mustard on one side of the fish and cut the bread the same size of the fish and place on top. Pan fry in some olive oil, bread side first, when the bread is golden brown, place it in a tray and bake in a pre heated oven 190 degrees for 5 mins. 2 To make the purée of almond and truffle. Roast the whole almonds until golden brown, sweat the ground almonds in some olive oil in a small pan, mix the whole almonds and the ground almonds and some vegetable stock and blend all together until it comes to a smooth purée, add truffle oil & seasoning at the end.
HIRAM CASSAR CHAPTER ONE RESTAURANT
• • • • • • • • • •
Chopped basil 80 ml extra virgin olive oil. 1 juice of fresh lemon. 100 gr whole almonds raw, 100 gr ground almonds. 30ml black truffle oil. 4 egg yolk 350ml extra virgin olive oil 50ml white wine vingear Salt/ white pepper
3 Shellfish gratin. Sweat the shallots and crushed garlic in olive oil without colour, add the shellfish and cook slowly, season and add some lemon juice, keep aside. 4 To do the sauce: Put 4 egg yolks in a stainless steel pan and cook on a Bain Marie, stirring constantly and add slowly the extra virgin olive oil until it comes to a creamy consistency. At the end reduce the white wine vinegar by half and add to the sauce.
Al Molo Restaurant, Level 5, Portomaso Marina, St. Julians. Tel: 2138 4300
INGREDIENTS: • 4 x 160 to 200 gr extremely fresh tuna steaks • Mixed leaves such as rocket, mache, radicchio, baby spinach • Tomato marmalade 1.5kg large ripe tomatoes, half table spoon salt, 100g sugar, 100ml red wine vinegar, 3 onions chopped, 175ml olive oil, Sprig of thyme, Bay leaf, 5 garlic cloves
• Caper Nut brown butter sauce 120g capers, 120g butter, 2 tablespoons chopped parsley, Juice of half a lemon • Lemon Vinaigrette 150ml extra virgin olive oil, 50ml lemon juice, Pinch of salt, Half teaspoon sugar, Half tablespoon water, One round of fresh ground pepper
METHOD: 1 The tomato marmalade should be made well in advance. Chop the tomatoes in quarters and mix together with the salt, sugar and vinegar and leave to sit for a few hours or overnight. 2 Chop the onions and cook in the oil, add the tomatoes and cook covered for an hour. 3 Add some water , the thyme, bay leaf and the garlic. Continue cooking for around an hour or until the marmalade is thick. Put the mixture through a ricer or food mill. 4 Prepare the vinaigrette by whisking the ingredients together. Toss the leaves in the vinaigrette just before serving.
5 Heat a griddle pan until almost smoking. Add an even amount of oil directly on the fish. Gently place the tuna that has been well seasoned with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and sear for around one minute on each side(or less depending on thickness) leaving the centre rare. Remove the fish and keep warm. 6 Cook the butter in the same pan until brown (make sure not to overcook). Add the capers, lemon juice and chopped parsley. 7 Serve the Tuna on hot plates together with a good amount of marmalade, caper sauce and the mixed leaves.
Chapter One Restaurant, 9 Church Street, Paceville, St. Julians. Tel: 2138 0000
it’s all about food
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cibus promo
Salmon Soup
Shellfish Platter
CLIFF BUSUTTIL LEONARDO RESTAURANT
PAUL GALEA IS-SAJJIED RESTAUARNT
INGREDIENTS: • 300g fresh salmon • 60g salmon roe • 300ml sauvignon blanc • 700ml fish stock • 50g unsalted butter • 50g flour • 200g spring onions
• • • • • • •
METHOD: 1 Poach the salmon in the fish stock and when its done set aside to cool. 2 Chop the onions, garlic, spring onions & ginger and sauté in a pot until soft 3 Add the wine and reduce by half. 4 In a small pot melt the butter and add the flour, mix until the roux is combined, add the roux to the sauté and wine mix and bind in. This will start to thicken,
so ladle by ladle add the hot fish stock to the roux and whisk to combine. Boil the soup for 10 minutes and blend everything. 5 Pass the soup through a fine sieve. 6 Re-heat the soup, flake the salmon in and squeeze the lemon, serve the soup and garnish with some cherry tomatoes, basil & salmon roe.
100 gr white onions 3 cloves garlic 7 gr ginger 1 small Lemon Basil Cherry tomatoes 30 ml Olive oil
Leonardo, Southport Villa & Gardens, Marsaxlokk. Tel: 2701 2600
INGREDIENTS: • 2 garlic cloves • 1 tablespoon oil • 2 glasses white wine • a sprig of fresh mint • 12 medium size fresh prawns • 400 gr fresh prawns • 12 Mussels METHOD: 1 Sauté garlic clove in a little olive oil, toss in mussels, fasolari and sea clams. 2 Cook for 5 minutes until shell fish starts to open. 3 Add the fresh prawns and the medium sized prawns.
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• 12 Fasolari • 12 Sea Clams • Parsley
4 Mix in the 2 glasses of wine on high heat, and add the mint. Simmer for 15 minutes. 5 Sprinkle parsley on top just before serving. Serve with crunchy bread to mop up the jus.
Is-Sajjied Bar & Restaurant, Xatt Is- Sajjied, Marsaxlokk. Tel: 2165 2549
it’s all about food
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reader’s corner
w in
great pr izes
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COMPETITION
EMAIL US NOW & WIN!! At Cibus we really want to know what interests you in the world of food and drink. Let us know which of this issue’s articles you enjoyed the most and also give us your suggestions for future topics which could be covered in Cibus. Just to make it all worthwhile the reader who provides us with the most food for thought will be presented with a Super Russell Hobbs Allure Jug Blender. The other four lucky readers will win 12 bottles of Kinne Zest, one of five Food Network branded automatic pepper and salt grinders, or one of five Food Network branded aprons, Tapas for 2 & a bottle of wine at the Premier restaurant in Valletta and a €60 voucher (meal for two) at Da Marina restaurant St George’s Bay. Email your suggestions to cibus@eslmalta.com before Monday the 13th of June.
The lucky winner of the March Cibus competition is Josephine Farrugia of Mosta. Josephine will enjoy three nights of luxury for two people at the magnificent Hilton Evian-les-Bains and Buddha-bar Spa on Lake Geneva in France. buddha-bar Spa © Studio Bergoend Annecy
* it’s all about food * 23
celebrity chef
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MINDY
KOBRIN
Eat well. Feel well. Entertain well. Entertaining and Celebrations expert Mindy Kobrin fuses food, fashion and travel to create menus and parties with international flare and panache.
Every party she plans, no matter the size, is a unique cultural experience that bridges the gap between formal gala and affordable dinner party. As founder of Mindy’s Meals on Heels, she feels the best part of event planning is building menus from scratch with no rules. Over the past 15 years, Mindy has planned hundreds of events. While serving as the Development Director of Fundraising for the Princess Grace Foundation and HSH Prince Albert of Monaco II and The Princely Family, Mindy spearheaded fundraising and corporate sponsorship for all events including two annual galas that raised over a million dollars. As part of Daniel Boulud’s culinary team at Feast & Fetes, Mindy helped orchestrate special events such as the Jazz Aspen Festival and South Beach Food & Wine Festival. With Mindy’s Meals on Heels, she combines her professional and travel experiences with her eye for style and love of cooking to make entertaining flavourful, fun, and fashionable. Even as a child, it was clear that Mindy had a passion for entertaining. Armed with her Walt Disney's Mickey
Mouse Cookbook and her mom’s heels, Mindy spent much of her childhood hosting themed parties for friends. After graduating from college, Mindy’s love for fashion led her to Saks Fifth Avenue where she worked as a merchandise analyst. One of her most memorable team building parties was working with designer James Ferragamo on a home-cooked Italian feast at his family’s Little Italy home. A few years later, Mindy moved to London to take graduate courses in International Relations. While abroad, she travelled and began honing her palate for ethnic cuisines. This affirmed Mindy’s belief that no matter what culture or country, food and entertaining are instrumental diplomats that bring people together. In her spare time, Mindy loves to travel. While her favourite destination is the Mediterranean, wherever she goes, Mindy can be found in locals' kitchens learning about regional cuisine, entertaining tips and cooking techniques. She can be seen biking around NYC on her old mint green Raleigh adorned with a wicker basket, purchasing fresh ingredients from the farmers’ markets and speciality shops.
it’s all about food
25
Terribly Clever sticky lemon, garlic and rosemary glazed chicken, with garlic roasted new potatoes and runner beans
wine match
serves 2
GOLD LABEL CHARDONNAY 2009 (75cl) A ripe yet elegant example of French Chardonnay showing rich peach and pineapple fruit and a hint of creamy oak.
preparation 10 – 15 minutes | cooking 35 – 40 minutes from the store cupboard olive oil salt and pepper 50 ml chicken stock (or water) butter (optional)
ingredients 2 chicken breasts ½ jar Terribly Clever Sticky Lemon, Garlic and Rosemary Glaze 300g new potatoes 1 bulb garlic 160g runner beans
Our Terribly Clever sauces keep for up to 28 days in the fridge, so once you’ve used it for this recipe, you can make more meals.
1 Preheat the oven to 180c/fan 200c/gas mark 4. 2 Spread each chicken breast with a dessert spoon of glaze and leave
to stand for ten minutes.
3 Cut the potatoes into halves and slice 3 – 4 cloves of garlic (skin on)
in half. Put them in a small roasting tray then drizzle over olive oil so everything is lightly coated. Season well. Put the tray in the oven and cook for 35 – 40 minutes or until golden brown, turning once.
4
Heat a little oil in a frying pan, then add the glazed chicken, the side down where the skin was. When golden, turn over and cook the other side for 1 – 2 minutes, then take out and put on a baking sheet. Next, add 2 – 3 dessert spoons of glaze and gently caramelise.
Adding 50ml of water or chicken stock and bring to the boil, then turn off the heat.
5 Once the potatoes have been cooking for 10 – 15 minutes, put the chicken in the oven for 20 – 25 minutes.
6 Cook the runner beans in a pan of salted boiling water for
2 – 3 minutes, then drain and season, adding butter if you like.
7 To serve, just divide the potatoes and runner beans evenly
between two plates. Slice the chicken breasts into three and arrange the pieces on each plate. Gently heat the pan of glaze and then spoon over the chicken.
Sliema, The Strand • Valletta, Palace Square • Baystreet, St George’s Bay • The Point, Tigne.
celebrity chef recipe
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Melt in your mouth Macadamia Lemon Bars
Ingredients For the Bars' Crust For the Filling: • ¼ cup confectioners' sugar • ½ lbs unsalted butter at
room temperature • 2 cups all-purpose flour • ¼ tsp salt • ¼ cup macadamia nuts,
chopped
6 eggs, room temperature 3 cups granulated sugar 2 tbs grated lemon zest 1 cup fresh lemon juice, seeds removed • 1 cup all-purpose flour • 2 tbs macadamia nuts, chopped • Confectioners' sugar for dusting • • • •
Chef Mindy Kobrin cooking
SIGNATURE DISH BY CELEBRITY CHEF MINDY KOBRIN
Method
Prepared in 30 minutes or less plus 30 minutes to bake. Preheat oven to 350°F.
For the Bars' Crust
1
2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Cream the butter and sugar until fluffy and light using an electric mixer on medium speed in a large bowl. Sift together the flour and salt over a small bowl. Adjust the mixer to low speed and add the flour mixture to the butter and sugar mixture until just combined. Gently stir in the chopped nuts. Scrape the mixture onto a board and make a big dough ball. With floured hands to prevent sticking, flatten the dough onto a 9x13x2-inch baking sheet making sure to build a ½-inch edge on all sides. Place in refrigerator to chill for approximately 15 minutes. Bake the crust for 15–20 minutes until it is lightly browned. Remove from oven and allow to cool on a wire rack. Keep the oven on.
For the Filling Whisk together the eggs, sugar, zest, lemon juice and flour. Pour this mixture over the chilled crust. Sprinkle with remaining chopped macadamia nuts. Bake for 30–35 minutes until filling is set and top is lightly browned. Cool completely on a wire rack. Cut into bars or triangles and dust with confectioners' sugar. Serve immediately. Yields one dozen.
it’s all about food
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cibus personality
GRILL IT!
Now you have a chance to see him on Food Network (Melita Channel 353) Food Network HD (Melita Channel 372) in his hit show Grill It! With Bobby Flay. Thirteen lucky Food Network viewers, all known for their own grill mastery, have been chosen to cook alongside the grilling guru himself Bobby Flay. In each episode, the guest griller’s best recipe is the food of the day. The twist is that Chef Flay has no clue about the food of choice until the guest arrives, so he has to whip up his own recipe on the fly. It isn’t about the competition; it’s about the opportunity of a lifetime – to grill it with one of the best pit masters around. Bobby and guests grill up tasty servings of rib eye steaks, shrimp, duck, pork chops, red snapper, chicken breast and much, much more! Series 1 starts: Monday 23rd May at 12:15 & 18:05
with
BOBBY
FLAY Bobby Flay is a critically acclaimed chef, restaurateur, award-winning cookbook author and television personality.
Argentinean Skewers
with Sherry Vinegar Steak Sauce and Grilled Scallions
Ingredients • 250ml (1 cup) packed fresh flat-leaf parsley • Sherry Vinegar Steak Sauce: • 4 piquillo peppers, drained and chopped • • • • • • • •
or 2 roasted red peppers, drained and chopped 250ml (1 cup) packed fresh coriander leaves 2 heads garlic, unpeeled, halved horizontally 125ml (½ cup) aged sherry vinegar 2 jalapeno peppers, tops trimmed 3 tbsps Dijon mustard 1 tbsp prepared horseradish, drained 125ml (½ cup) canola oil 510g (18 oz) sirloin, cut into 3cm (1 in) dice
• 2 tbsps honey • 1 tbsp molasses • 15cm (6 in) wooden skewers, soaked in cold
water for at least 30 minutes • 2 tsps Worcestershire sauce • Salt and freshly ground black pepper • 12 green onions, trimmed • 1 tsp salt • ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper • Canola oil • Sherry Vinegar Steak Sauce, recipe follows Use imperial measurements
Method 1
2
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it’s all about food
Combine the parsley, coriander, garlic, peppers and oil in a food processor and process until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a large baking dish, add the beef and toss to coat in the mixture. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 8 hours. Heat the griddle to high. Skewer 2 pieces of the beef onto 2 skewers so that the meat lays flat on the griddle. Season the meat on both sides with salt and pepper and griddle until golden brown, slightly charred on both sides and cooked to
3 4 5
medium-rare doneness, about 3 minutes per side. Brush the green onions with canola oil and season with salt and pepper. griddle for 2 to 3 minutes per side or until slightly charred and just cooked through. Serve skewers with grilled scallions and Sherry Vinegar Steak Sauce. Place the peppers, vinegar, mustard, horseradish, honey, molasses, Worcestershire, salt and pepper in a food processor or blender and blend until smooth. Can be made 1 day in advance and refrigerated.
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interview
Ruby in the Rough Before meeting Michael for the first time, I had had the good fortune of meeting and getting to know a number of Diaconos from his particularly large family and without hesitation, I can say that they all had left a very delightful impression up on me.
words Joséf Bonello pictures Matthew Debono
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Simon, Peter and Julian, to name a few, came across as being very positive, generous and genuine people with a touch of balanced flamboyance which I found very appealing. Michael, the chef, immediately showed a physical resemblance to his brothers, his voice too reminding me of his siblings and with his authentic value also very recognisable. However I have yet to meet another person with half the unassuming nature that I found in this guy, and I am not holding my breath! As we sat at table for a good old cappuccino, Michael was obviously uneasy despite the fact we were at Rubino’s in Valletta which is where he spends most of his time. The reasons for this were clear; we were going to be talking about him, and that is not something he feels very comfortable in doing. We spoke of his early days at Giuseppi’s in Mellieha where he started, aged 18, already motivated by his childhood love of cooking stuff at home. He spoke in short, dry sentences of his intense and clear-cut passion for cooking fine food. He talked of the sacrifice he faces in trying to marry his zealous dedication to cooking with the cold necessity of business acumen. He underlined his devotion to this art of his by revealing how he enjoys cooking at home for family and for friends, despite this also being his daily occupation. Not only does he enjoy it, but he finds in it a crucial kick which releases his creativity and gives him the chance to entertain others as well as himself. Today he finds inspiration in the variety of ingredients he has at his disposal and in a more daring clientele who are keen on new food creations. Michael knows that he
is lucky to be operating in a Mediterranean country yet feels that this fact has not yet been fully celebrated despite this region offering one of the more appealing climates for superlative agricultural produce worldwide. Nonetheless he also expresses his admiration of other cuisines such as Asian, (the one enjoyed in its homelands rather than themed restaurants here in Europe), exalting its freshness, diversity, myriad of colours and speed of preparation apart from of course, its palate stimulation. Michael’s last applause goes to wine and its contribution towards completing a food experience. Simple food and simple wine offer a complimentary sensation which, in total synch, helps both rise to dizzying, delightful heights of pleasure. I have spoken at length Michael Diacono’s personal style, of his surprising shyness, of his refreshingly dry manner, and maybe not enough of his food. Well, not quite! I am today, far more intrigued by what he can create, after having had the absolute pleasure of meeting a chef, a man, of increasingly rare humility adorned by near-brutal honesty and genuineness at the very bone. No extra frills, no overt decoration, no innuendos or superfluous claims. What I found was a totally down-to-earth, unpretentious approach with minimal elaboration and maximum raw quality. If those are not the marks of fine food, then I don’t know what is. And Michael Diacono is just that.
interview
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SIGNATURE DISH BY MICHAEL DIACONO
Quail with a foie gras and asparagus filling serves 4 Ingredients
• 4 boneless quail • 12 small asparagus • • • • • •
spears, halved 4 large mushrooms, quartered 200 gr foie gras Salt and pepper 4 large sage leaves 8 rashers of back bacon Seasoned flour
Method
1
2 3 4 5
Lay the quail on a clean board and season. Place the asparagus, mushrooms and foie gras in the centre and roll up as neatly as possible. Place a sage leaf on each bird then roll individually in 2 rashers of bacon, securing with toothpicks. Coat with seasoned flour then fry for a few minutes in the hot oil and butter till golden all over. Transfer to an oven tray and continue cooking in a hot oven (200 C / Mk 8) for 15 to 20 minutes. The quail should be slightly pink.
• Little olive oil and butter to fry • 1 med onion, finely chopped • 20 gr dried porcini, soaked
in warm water
• 100 gr sliced chestnut
mushrooms
• 1 glass Port • 175 ml fresh cream
6
7
8 9
Use the same frying pan to make the sauce. Remove excess fat then fry the chopped onion quickly, add the porcini and chopped mushrooms. Season and cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Douse with the Port and reduce. (You may add some of the porcini soaking water if too dry) Finally add the cream and simmer very gently to thicken slightly. Serve the quail cut down the middle on a bed of sweet potato mash or a parsnip puree.
it’s all about food
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traditional tastes
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FENEK TIME As a preamble, may I just say that it would greatly help you understand my train of thought much better if you knew me and the force with which I favour all that is authentically Maltese.
As I sought to create this edition’s menu and went through all the local produce I could select as my theme, I realised that not only was I influenced by what’s presently on the market, but also conditioned by other forces such as the current tuna quotas in force. My loyal fishmonger and his family have been fishing on small wooden boats and selling their catch at humble profit margins for generations but are now very severely restricted in doing so. It seems that the only locally landed tuna available to us is only so on the black market and at prohibitive prices of even €18 per kilo. Now I am all for the sustainable preservation of fish stocks as it is the lifeline for a healthy seafood population but I just hope it will not simply end up lining the coffers of Japanese brokers and clients at the expense of total absence of local tuna in the Maltese household. So to play safe, I chose to use rabbit, legally bought with full traceability, which is a sure winner with locals and visitors alike. My variation is inspired by what our land offers us at this time of year and will hopefully turn a mere form of sustenance into a better appreciation of the true value of food. In Malta we seem to have become stuck to the traditional fried rabbit or stew with the exception of the not-so-traditional plate of chips and mayonnaise. I chose to go for a more authentically Maltese expression involving carob syrup, bay leaf and fennel seed whilst totally shying away from the use of tomato purée in the case of my rabbit pasta sauce as the only value I see in doing that is making the dish heavier and more filling. My version will give a totally different salsa consistency to the one we are usually accustomed to and will ensure that the main flavour will be a subtle one of pure rabbit. Call me prosaic, but straightforward Wimbledon Strawberries and Cream simply do not cut it for me when it comes to my dessert. Yet I could not just ignore the superlative quality of the local fruit which I served on a bed of crushed Krustini, a cushion of local rikotta with fresh mint, lemon rind and a dollop of Maltese honey to exalt the forthcoming feel of Summer. My hope is that, through these pages of print, I somehow succeed in sharing with you a discovery I made some time ago, that of better appreciation and enjoyment of produce grown on the land we roam every day.
recipes Donald Caligari Conti pictures George Scintilla
* it’s all about food * 33
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traditional tastes
*
The Starter... Bon Appetite!
Rikotta Ravioli with Rabbit Salsa
serves 4
Ingredients: • • • • • •
24 Pasta Rikotta Ravioli Onions two medium size Garlic whole head of garlic White wine half bottle Rosemary Bayleaf
• • • • •
Fennel seed (local) Carob syrup Sea salt according to taste Sunflower oil Rabbit liver and lean Rabbit meat 200 gr
Method 1 Start by frying rabbit meat only in oil, and remove once browned. 2 Fry onions and garlic until slightly brown, place rabbit together with onions and continue cooking 3 4
on low heat with added bay leaves and a tablespoon of fennel seed and lots of fresh rosemary. Toss rabbit well once brown, add four tablespoons of carob syrup and a teaspoon of sea salt, at this stage raise the heat and splash in wine, simmer for 30 min covered. It is important to add stock to produce a good amount of broth when serving as this dish needs to be served on deep plates. Boil Ravioli and ladle on salsa in deep plate and place ravioli on side sprinkled with chopped rosemary… sauce should have runny consistency.
* it’s all about food * 35
Croutons in different varieties. Delicious with fresh salads, soups or as a snack on their own! EXCLUSIVELY REPRESENTED BY ALFRED GERA & SONS LTD. TEL: 2144 6205 EXCLUSIVELY REPRESENTED BY ALFRED GERA & SONS LTD. TEL: 2144 6205
traditional tastes
Main Course...
Rabbit
in Caramelised Onions Fennel Carob Syrup and Bay Leaf Sauce
serves 4
Ingredients • • • •
Rabbit (whole local) Onions Garlic Sea Salt
• • • •
White wine Fennel Bay leaf Carob syrup
Method 1 Portion Rabbit into pieces, place in bowl to drain all fluids. 2 Add sea salt together with olive oil. 3 Fry portions until golden brown, remove pieces from pan and add onions and garlic, brown well. 4 Replace rabbit in sauce and add fennel seeds and bay leaves, then toss. 5 Add half a bottle of white wine, reduce sauce and lower heat, cover and simmer for forty five minutes if needed add more wine to suit taste.
Tips • It is important for this dish to set for at least 3hrs before reheating with steamed local potatoes and carrots with fennel and serving.
* it’s all about food * 37
A sweet dream
There’s no need to be a patissier to create tempting desserts. Just use Hopla da Montare cream. The success is guaranteed: once the cream is whisked up, Hopla will be very easy to prepare and use. ‘HOPLA - SO EASY!
traditional tastes
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Dessert...
Strawberry Krostini Crumble with sweet rikotta Ingredients
• Krostini crumble 100 gr • Icing sugar 50 gr • Fresh mint • lemon rind from one medium lemon
• • • • •
serves 4
Rose water (1 table spoon) Honey (4 table spoons) Fresh strawberries (4 cups) 150 gr rikotta local fresh Fresh milk (half cup)
Method 1 Finely shred lemon rind and mint. 2 Add to rikotta together with desired amount of icing sugar. 3 Whisk with fork and add milk until rikotta reaches creamy consistency. 4 Add rose water. 5 Rinse strawberries and cut into quarters and leave to drain. 6 Place crumble in dessert glass and place strawberries on crumble, lace with honey and top off with sweet rikotta garnish and fresh mint leaves. Refrigerate and serve chilled.
* it’s all about food * 39
personality
Kevin Spiteri & wife, Albano Carrisi, Raymond Bugeja, Mark Zammit & Guest
*
Albano Carrisi with the kitchen staff at Al Molo
AL BANO AL MOLO It was Friday 13th. An evening in May, crisp air, vibrant setting, great wine, delicious food bits and loads of old friends and acquaintances; a blend of factors that offered an experience totally refuting the reputation garnered by this particular date.
words Joséf Bonello
As guests reveled in the magical ambience of Al Molo’s terrace in Portomaso, topics discussed ranged from the country’s current economic status, the unlimited uses and nuisances of today’s mobile phones, the validity or otherwise of Einstein’s Theory of Relativity, to the dream of ever owning a cabin cruiser or yacht and other themes not entirely mentionable in a family magazine like Cibus. That was until our host Chev Ray Bugeja courteously introduced me and my circle to Al Bano. In truth, he introduced us, to him, as we all knew that Al Bano was a very popular Italian singer yet few were aware of the wines he has been creating for a number of years now in a 400-year old farmhouse which has since been elegantly salvaged and restructured. Given his ample involvement in the world of music and that of wine I asked him to describe if and how the two overlapped in any way. His reaction did little to surprise me in its genuinely instinctive sureness. Music, like wine, can be an expression. A human expression of that which already exists yet put together for a first, unique time. In the same way that a heart brings together existing musical notes and instruments to burst into a new, unique tune, so will it knead and weave Nature’s forces of sun, earth and fruit together to ferment a new, unique wine. As we sipped some of Al Bano Carrisi’s Felicitá white Salento IGT wine, a rather uncommon blend of refined sauvignon blanc (70%) with the bolder chardonnay (30%) which offered a very refreshing companion to the
delicately delicious nibbles on offer, he, the singer-cumwinemaker salutes us with typically Latin eloquence on how fine wine, accompanied by good music, can bring a man and a woman to new closeness over a romantic dinner; yet another fundamental characteristic belonging to both his loves which together greatly enhance the singular effect of both. Who am I to contradict that? Here was a man who lives an intimate closeness to mother earth through his family estate in Cellino San Marco which is surrounded by 60 hectares of woodland and snuggly nestled between two seas, the Jonio on one side and Adriatico on the other. He knows what Nature is all about. And his songs have brought many hearts together for the first time. Before I detached myself from this night of palatetingling and people, I just had to try his Nostalgia IGT red which is a pure negroamaro, with its typically spicy touch and rustic earthiness matching nicely with the rabbit terrine I savoured. Al Molo set this evening up with their typical commitment to good taste, dedicating their chef Victor Borg’s skills to preparing bits and pieces of food in his distinctive style, the knowledge of their Bulgarian Sommelier Veselka Krasteva with her marked elegance, their host Andrea Depasquale Schranz with his unique panache, and blended together with the lavish atmosphere of their venue, all for us to thankfully indulge in.
it’s all about food
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taste for travel
*
On Becoming WINE-PARENTS I have known Chris Gherxi for a number of years now. Wine and food brought us together and even though we have both experienced the inebriating effect of the former in each other’s presence, I never doubted the fitness of his state of mind.
words Joséf Bonello
Until that is, he recently offered me the opportunity to become a wine-parent. No tell-tale signs of the unsobre (pardon my spell-check bypass) type. He was walking straight, no revealing odours, his speech was not slurred, his eyes looked focused. So what in heaven’s name was he on about? I would get my answer at L’Agape in Rabat, a very attractive chill-out place nicely tucked away behind the police station, which he now runs with avid Man Utd fan Pierre Calleja. There I joined a boisterous, funloving crowd of people who were also invited to meet Marco Cortese from the Comune di Castagnole delle Lanze, a wonderful commune in the Province of Asti in Piedmont, Italy. His presentation soon reassured me that what Chris was talking about was not a figment of his very fruitful imagination or of any other state of stupor. Marco was offering us the chance of adopting a row of vines from any of the vineyards participating in the very creative initiative. For a mere €100 you may select a 20-metre row of your choice which will have your name etched into its wooden head stake and you may access instant information on the status of the adopted row by webcam on a dedicated web site. You will have the opportunity of visiting and attending the row processing, harvesting and winemaking and
eventually receive 12 bottles of high quality Barbera with your very own personalised label. One hundred euros in return for a dozen bottles of Barbera (shipping costs not included) produced in a region as magical and prestigious as Piedmont where one can claim to have adopted a row of vines has all the emotions that fine wine can so generously offer. And to celebrate this project in style, l’Agape dished out goody after goody in the shape of local salami, salami di suino al barbaresco and tomino (goat cheese) piemontese which were washed down with new Barbera followed by a one-year old and later by a fouryear-old riserva all from the Bel-Sit house. To match their zabaione di moscato, their silky-smooth lemon and chocolate mousses made using ricotta from bari and their delicious torta di nocciola, they served Moscato d’Asti which closed off an evening of refined fun. Chris very enthusiastically explains the meaning on the word ‘agape’ which is of Greek origin referring to friends gathered in brotherly love around a festive celebration of food. Whilst I am sure he will not be hurt by my affirmation that my ‘love’ for him will never be anything more than brotherly, I am definitely game for a food fest with him and his friends at his dining den anytime.
it’s all about food
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cibus promo
WYNDHAM ESTATE where Australian Shiraz began BIN 777
Semillon Sauvignon Blanc
2010
One of the most loved white wines from Australia for its freshness and rich tropical fruit taste. The 2010 vintage has just been released and is fresh as ever. Colour; Pale green straw. Bouquet; Fresh lemon citrus and freshly cut grass aromas are highlighted with attractive tropical fruit nuances. Palate; A vibrant and lively wine style revealing zesty lemon citrus, snow pea and tropical fruit flavours which are supported with a soft but crisp acidity on the finish. Freshness, fruit depth and vitality are the keynotes of this distinctive Wyndham Estate style. It is ideally consumed with a selection of grilled fish or light antipasti.
English immigrant George Wyndham began this most important page in Australia’s winemaking history in 1828 when he planted his first vineyard at Dalwood, along the banks of the Hunter River, in New South Wales. Seven years later Dalwood Wines, as it was then known, released its first vintage to rave reviews and by the mid-1800s was exporting to England and India. To honour George Wyndham’s memorable achievements, Dalwood Wines was renamed Wyndham Estate in 1970 - one hundred years after George Wyndham’s death. Today Wyndham Estate is renowned for much more than its wines. The original Dalwood vineyard has become a favourite tourist destination in the Hunter Valley, with its combination of fine food and entertainment to complement its popular wines. The Wyndham Estate wine portfolio has been arranged into distinct ranges to suit a variety of consumers’ tastes and budgets. The BIN range is the flagship brand in the Wyndham Estate portfolio. The high quality wines reflect the full, intense fruit style for which Wyndham Estate is famous. Wyndham Estate wines are distributed by FBIC and are available at leading restuarants and at Farsonsdirect: Tel: 2381 4444
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it’s all about food
BIN 555 Shiraz
2008
Seasonal conditions enabled the Shiraz grapes to reach full maturity. This has enabled the winemakers to produce rich, round and generous wines with great depth of flavour and soft balanced tannins. Attention to cap temperature control has maintained the softness and rich flavour of the Wyndham Estate BIN 555 style. A selection of predominantly American oak, old and new, was used in the maturation of selected wine parcels for a period of 12 months prior to blending and bottling. On the palate the wine has generous plum, ripe berry and liquorice fruit flavours with chocolate oak influences. Typically rich but soft structure displaying fine integrated tannins and great length. Ideally consumed with red meat or cold cuts and cured meats.
The balcony of Umbria ROMANELLI
words Olivia Vassallo pictures Karl Vassallo
The buses from Foligno to Montefalco are sporadic. Buses run to and fro every two hours yet this inconvenience did not discourage us from visiting Montefalco. Montefalco, was part of my father’s planned itinerary, whilst we were on a 3 day tour of the Italian festival I Primi d’Italia, in Foligno. The journey to the peak of the Umbrian hills is fascinating. You are surrounded by orderly fields of grape vines and olive trees, lined up like parading soldiers. Nature is at its best, creating a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere. The bus stopped few metres away from the medieval doorway of the fortified town. Once you move beyond the high walls you can perceive a smell of the untouched, that natural odour of earth and woods. The tannic scent of the Sagrantino grapes lingers over the entire town. Montefalco is synonymous for the Sagrantino grape variety which has been awarded the DOCG status. The sacred atmosphere which reigns over Montefalco is embodied by the numerous medieval churches situated in the cobbled and narrow roads which spread through the town. We walked alertly around, attracted by the multiple shops of artisan textiles, biological extra virgin olive oil and Umbrian wine. There is nothing chaotic about the village of Montefalco. The atmosphere is serene, the pace is languid, and there is little business going on other than the shops, tourist attractions, restaurants and cafes. A contemporary decorated shop, with a large display of olive oil and wine bottles labelled Romanelli caught our attention. An elegant, well-dressed gentleman approached us to introduce his products. In no time at all, we were engulfed in a deep conversation about our love for food and wine, our excitement about the Italian market and our passion for home made stuff. Mr. Costantino Romanelli, on seeing our growing enthusiasm, offered to guide us through his agricultural organisation. Definitely not an offer we could refuse, but first we had to lunch! We set appointment with Costantino for later that afternoon and meanwhile, we rummaged around the Umbrian town in search of a restaurant to tame our famished hearts. Our family maxim, when on tour, is to eat the traditional local specialities. Thus, we were salivating at the prospect of in some typical Umbrian
48 *
it’s all about food
delicacies. At L’Alchimista the ambience is warm and glowing. Surrounded by hundreds of wine bottles, we proceeded to our table and chose a fragrant red Assisi wine. We nibbled on a selection of Umbrian cheeses and cold cuts and continued with a pork fillet cooked in Sagrantino wine. To conclude, the euphoric dessert - pears cooked in another dose of Sagrantino. L’Alchimista transported us to the Umbrian food paradise and we walked out satisfyingly replete. To loosen up, we sauntered down to the belvedere just outside the walls of Montefalco. I managed to nod off on a cold bench in front of the breath-taking 360° view of the Umbrian valleys. Parched, I woke up just in time to meet Costantino Romanelli and start our visit to his place. We met at the store in town, where Mrs. Romanelli was waiting for us with home-made grappa biscuits and a shot of the sweet, syrupy Passito di Sagrantino. Not the ideal drink to quench my thirst after a full-bodied red at lunch time, but then could I miss tasting this gem of a liquorish wine?! Costantino drove us to the farm. On the way he explained to us the work of three generations of his family, the natural processes they adopt and the care and attention with which they cultivate their produce. We stopped at the grape vines to observe the Sagrantino fruit - perfect bunches of grapes emanating from groomed vines, with no dry or rotten fruits in sight. It all looked like a work of art. At the production area, Costantino’s sons informed us that they pick the Sagrantino grapes late, when the fruits are riper, thus producing softer tannins. There is always a professional secret behind a high quality product! The Romanelli family insist upon preserving the nature which surrounds them. They produce biological oils and wine, giving particular attention to the environment. The family also developed Romanelli Natura – a project designed to sustain the environment and promote ecotourism. Visitors can enjoy walks amidst olive trees and vineyards, explore the flora and fauna and observe the different bird species in their natural habitat. The best part of this adventure was yet to come. Sitting on a bench, breathing in the air of the Umbrian hills, we were presented with a selection of extra virgin olive oil and crunchy croutons. With difficulty, after the large meal, but gladly, I tasted all the olive oil
travel
*
varieties and was impressed by their definite aroma. Eventually, we were joined by a German couple who first visited Romanelli a couple of years ago for the grape harvest. With some intermittent English we managed to share our views on the wines as we sipped on the whole selection of the Romanelli produce which includes a Grechetto white, 3 reds, and the passito and grappa made from Sagrantino grapes. By the time we finished our tasting session the sky had exploded into a downpour of heavy rain. Light-headed with the wine, my father and I took no notice of the time. It was only then that we realised we were late for the bus to Foligno. Luckily, the German couple gently insisted on giving us a lift to the Umbrian capital. The Montefalco and Romanelli proved to be an enriching experience to our gusto sensibility. After all, I guess, heaven is also a place on earth!
Check at Olivia's Eatmania website which is dedicated to all things related to food and the importation of fine food stuffs from Italy. www.eatmania.com
it’s all about food
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food and drinks
PRIME BARBECUE SPECIALS
A SPARKLING JUICE DRINK FOR ANY OCCASION Shloer is the sparkling juice drink for any occasion, and it’s completely free from preservatives, artificial sweeteners, flavours and colours. Now over 70 years young, Shloer is still based on the original (and very delicious) recipe that was created by Professor Jules Shloer of Switzerland! Shloer is available in Red Grape, White Grape, and Rosé. Imported and distributed by: Gatt & Said Trading, Trade enquiries: T: 21 234 105 or M: 9942 0449
NATURAL LOVE If you are in search of palatable food and exceptional wine then you need to visit Eatmania’s website. Browse over a selection of exclusive Italian products, carefully selected by Eatmania, to reflect our love for natural, genuine, healthy and artisan stuff. These products discover the regional specialities of Tuscany, Umbria, Campania and Veneto. We guarantee high quality and authentic taste so be part of our culinary adventure and impress your family and friends with our supreme pasta, extra virgin olive oil, rice, wine, vegetables in oil, sauces, pates and more. For more information visit W: www.eatmania.com/products or call M: 9944 6469
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it’s all about food
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Summer is with us, so is the BBQ season. Try our mouth watering Barbeque specials such as Ribeye Steak, Marinated Chicken Legs, Kebabs, Spare Ribs, Pork Chops, Cuberoll and much more available from Gs Superstore - Naxxar, Tower supermarket -Sliema, Trolees Supermarket –Qawra, Shopwise Supermarket – Qormi, Carter’s Supermarket – Paola, Piscopo’s Cash & Carry – St. Paul’s Bay, Main Street – Mellieha, Mgieret Road – Marsa, Lasco Supermarket – Zejtun, F. Busuttil Str - B’Kara. PRIME Ltd: Mgieret RD, Marsa MRS 3303 T: 2122 2291/2 E: james.muscat@primemalta.com W: www.primemalta.com Facebook group PRIME RECIPES 4 U
A WINE GROWER’S PARADISE! Santiago wines are produced from selected grapes from Chile’s Central Valley in Andes. The vineyards which produce Santiago range of wines are trained to maximum fruit exposure to the sun and allows grapes to ripen to perfection. Santiago Sauvignon Blanc - a light, lemony and zesty wine. Santiago Merlot - smooth, lush with ripe blackberry & blackcurrent flavours. Ask for Santiago from leading restaurants and wine bars. Trade Enq: Carnaby Wines T: 2142 1485 M: 9947 7580 E: info@carnaby.com.mt
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BOV PREPAID CARDS 2131 2020 I bov.com Issued by Bank of Valletta p.l.c. 58, Zachary Street Valletta VLT 1130 - Malta
50 official UEFA Champions League matchballs will be won. Offer valid until 2nd June 2011 or until stocks last. Terms and conditions apply and are found at www.bov.com. Winners must answer a skill testing question to win a prize.
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RICE Archangel How does one attempt to transform one of the most basic, common, and humble cereal grains which offers staple nourishment to a massive part of our planet’s population, and which provides twenty percent of the total calorie intake of the human species, into a culinary masterpiece? The answer lies in combining the word Risotto with the name Ferron. words Joséf Bonello
I first ‘met’ Gabriele Ferron through his menu of rice creations during a ‘degustazione’ at Tartarun Restaurant beautifully organised by Eatmania a few weeks ago. I could not have had a more enjoyable introduction as I savoured his Fantasia di Dorette di Riso whose savoury biscuits were made from flour of Vialone Nano rice, Pesce fritto pastellato in farina di riso using rice flour batter, Polenta di riso con sugo di pesce, and a selection of Risottos, con gamberi e carciofi, con spumante e capesante, al nero di sepia and all’isolana which is a traditional meat risotto recipe from Isola della Scala fragranced with cinnamon spice and rosemary. The sweet Torta di Riso by Gabriele Ferron rounded off a memorable evening. At this point I feel compelled to thank you, Cibus readers, for placing me in a position to enjoy all these delights, in the name of bringing them to you in this written format. I owe you. I actually met the aptly nominated World Ambassador for Rice a few days later, this time through his firm, enthusiastic hand-shake that saw the palm of my hand crumple and rattle in fear for its life. A big man with an even bigger heart came across through his gripping love for all that is marked by intrinsic buon gusto. Donning clothes as colourful as his persona, Gabriele wastes no time in setting the pace of singing lavish praise to his
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it’s all about food
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beloved rice. I try to challenge that ever so subtly by asking him to define the taste of rice, in full knowledge that it lacks in having a very distinct flavour of its own. Instead of seeing this as a shortfall, Gabriele picks on it and highlights it as a feature which makes rice so precious. In truth, it does have its own very delicate sapore yet its ultimate characteristic is that of texture. Its mouth-feel and capacity to absorb the flavours of its sauce and exalt them, make of rice a unique medium in the communication of taste. Italy boasts of over 100 different types of rice descendants of two families, the Indica and the Japonica (originating from India and Japan respectively). It is grown all over the country, from Sicily right up to Friuli, through Emilia Romagna and Sardinia. Yet there is little doubt that its primary quality source lies in Veneto, more precisely in the flatlands of Valle Padana. This is the home of the Vialone Nano rice variety whose grains are so short that they almost sacrifice rice’s usual elongated shape to a near round one, making them ideal for a firm risotto. The Consorzio per la Tutela del Riso Vialone Nano Veronese avidly preserves and promotes the characteristics of this variety which prompted the EU to award its first IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) status
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in 1996 to a rice strain to protect this natural encounter of variety and geographical location in favour of ideal quality. In conclusion I begged Gabriele Ferron for some hints on proper risotto preparation. He insists that the first thing to ensure is storage. Raw rice needs to be kept in a dry, cool cupboard as far away from the oven as possible since all the vapour and flavours coming from pots and pans in use will be absorbed by the rice, practically triggering its cooking process and tainting its virgin palate. It is not easy to judge its quality when raw, even though its lookand-feel must be slightly harsh and not too shiny as this could mean it was over-processed. High quality rice will retain its integral shape when cooked, and will not crumble or disintegrate. We Maltese tend to like ours a little bit overdone, yet one must not confuse the ideal al dente with raw. In line with his earlier affirmation regarding texture of good rice, Chef Gabriele insists that the sensation on the palate must be overall round and creamy, and never too crumbly or sandy. I caught myself hesitating as I reached out for our parting handshake yet I smiled at the coincidence that the Italian word riso can mean both rice or laughter. And judging by the fun had from chatting with Gabriele Ferron, I pondered on how aptly his Ambasciatore del Riso title suits him to a tee.
it’s all about food
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cibus chef challenge
CREATIVE SUMMER SMOOTHIES Along with the long hot days, summer also brings an abundance of mouth watering tasty fresh fruit. Why not really make the most of the season’s bounty and create refreshing tasty and healthy smoothies to sip in the sunshine! Here are three suggestions to set you started. pictures Matthew Debono Smoothie recipes by Stefano Zerafa, Bar Manager at Le Meridien St. Julians Hotel & Spa. Allure Range Russell Hobbs Blender courtesy of Miller Distributors.
Duddy Smoothie
Illy Virgin Mojito
Healthy Option
Ingredients:
Ingredients:
Ingredients:
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• • • •
• • • •
1 fresh banana 1 fresh apple 4cl Peach puree 5cl pureed Mark’s & Spencer Raspberries 8cl Cranberry juice
Method:
1 2
3 4
Chill a long glass. Pour all ingredients into blender with 1 scoop of crushed ice. Blend until smooth. Strain into the long glass and serve.
Garnish:
Radish & Apple, straw and stirrer
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it’s all about food
Illy Coffee (1 espresso) 4cl Vanilla Syrup 2cl freshly squeezed Ginger Juice 8 leaves fresh mint
Method:
1 2
3 4
Chill an old fashion glass. Pour all ingredients into blender with 1 scoop of crushed ice. Blend until smooth. Strain into the old fashion glass and serve.
Garnish:
Fresh mint, straw and stirrer.
4cl Freshly squeezed carrot 5cl Freshly squeezed tomato 5cl Freshly squeezed tangerine 4cl Strawberry puree
Method:
1 2
3 4
Chill an old fashion glass. Pour all ingredients into blender with 1 scoop of crushed ice. Blend until smooth. Strain into the old fashion glass and serve.
Garnish:
Celery, carrot, green peppers & cherry tomato
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The future moving in.
Spatia kitchen from the Arclinea Collection, designed and coordinated by Antonio Citterio.