ISSUE Nº
it's all about food
Natural, Maltese and in Season
Our Heritage in Food
Etna
The Food and Wine of our Nearest Neighbour
Meet Celebrity Food Network Chef Michael Schlow
Italian Cuisine in a Nutshell by Marcella Croce
win
a cookin� holiday in T U S CA N Y
October 2010
01
THE RIGHT BALANCE BETWEEN
DESIGN & PRICE
onepercent | Msida Valley Road Msida, BKR 9024 t: 2546 5000 | f: 2546 5121 | e: info@onepercent.com.mt www.onepercent.com.mt
GED kitchens prices starting from â‚Ź7000.00 inclusive of 4 Electrolux Rex appliances. Featured model Seta Line in white gloss lacquer. Also available in veneered wood finishes.
Open Week 1st - 7th November 2010 Opening hours from 9.30am - 8.00pm
St. Thomas Street, Luqa. Tel: 21 800 221, 21 800 214 Fax: 21 800 225 Email: info@casanova.com.mt www.casanova.com.mt
instant cooking
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welcome
issue 1
October 2010
Editor Joséf Bonello
Editor at Large Mike Dimbleby
Creative Director Mark Portelli
Art Director Germán Perujo
Design & Production Germán Perujo, Alan Cachia, Kevin Barun, Matthew Debono, Jamin Galea.
Photography Welcome to this the first edition of Cibus I hope that you enjoy reading it as much as I took pleasure in working on it. So what is the point of a food and drink magazine? How can sheets of printed paper bound together communicate the sheer delight of savouring this wonderful reality that we relate to at least three times daily? These were the questions I posed myself in this first edition of Cibus! The online Cambridge English dictionary describes food as ‘something that people and animals eat, or plants absorb, to keep them alive!’ It is true that dictionaries are not intended to be poetic yet this brutally dry description is probably the harshest way to describe one of the greater joys in life, and Cambridge will forgive me for doing my utmost to make sure they do it greater justice. So that’s what Cibus will be all
about. We will do our utmost to describe food and drink as a true joy, an expression of the culture of the land it comes from, a celebration of traditions that tell the story of peoples, a festival of flavours of fun that goes light years beyond mere nourishment. I have often been described as a rather bulky container of this food I rave about and I readily admit that it leaves a rather rotund impression on my midriff yet I am on a quest to find healthy food which is as enticingly tasty as the ‘unhealthy’ versions. Your kind assistance will be very much appreciated in this mission. Cibus will borrow its anthem from ‘Oliver Twist’ and as the chorus of young lads pays tribute to food in their own humble way. I augur that you will find our magazine a worthy ambassador of its namesake. I leave you with a few verses from ‘Food Glorious Food’
which will set the tone of what we shall try to convey in quarterly instalments. Food glorious food What is there more handsome? Gulped swallowed or chewed Still worth a king’s ransom What is it we dream about? What brings on a sigh? Piled peaches and cream about six feet high Food glorious food We’re anxious to try it three banquets a day Our favourite diet Just picture a great big steak fried, roasted or chewed For food, marvellous food; wonderful food; magical food; fabulous food; beautiful food!
Matthew Debono, Alan Carville, George Scintilla
Coordinator Alison Vassallo
Advertising Alberto Serra (Sales Manager) Alison Vassallo
Published by Executive Services Ltd. 183/2 Constitution Street, Mosta Tel.: 2142 2171/2/3 Email: cibus@eslmalta.com A big thanks from all of us to everyone who contributed to making this first issue happen. Cibus enjoys a circulation in excess of 40,000 dristributed with The Sunday Times. While making every effort to satisfy our clients and readers, Executive Services Ltd. cannot be held responsible for errors or omissions in advertising or Editorials. Look out for issue two of Cibus
Joséf Bonello
out on Sunday December 5th.
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contents
contents
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issue 1/ October 2010
of food 08 culture Italian Food in a Nutshell
Italian Food writer Marcella Croce shares her knowledge of Italian Cuisine.
chef 20 celebrity Michael Schlow
Meet celebrity Chef Michael Schlow and discover his unique approach to cooking.
tastes 24 traditional Eat Pray Love Malta
32 36 42 51
Donald Caligari Conti shares his passion for Maltese cooking, ingredients and the passing seasons.
interview
Bernd Food
Cibus interviews Bernd Maier exciting, energetic new Executive Chef at the Phoenicia Hotel.
feature
Kitchen Proof Me
It’s never too late to get acquainted with the kitchen.
wine
Ethnic Etna
Josef Bonello visits our nearest neighbour and brings us a taste of their wine.
ask a professional
The Butcher
We posed some frequently asked questions to a meat expert.
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The creative intelligence to balance style with substance Siemens performance and design excellence combine to create co-ordinated, flexible and distinctly individual kitchens.
WE HAVE MOVED... Mriehel By-Pass, Mriehel BKR 3000
Our view on Built-in kitchens is that they should be as individual as your taste in food. The Siemens Built-in range offers an effortless combination of innovative multi-function, self-cleaning and steam ovens, a sophisticated coffee centre and space saving compact dishwashers – all designed to provide a delicious blend of energy efficiency, convenience and flexible co-ordination. To view the full range of Siemens home appliances visit us at Aplan, The Atrium, Mriehel Bypass, Mriehel or on aplan.com.mt.
The future moving in.
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competition
n i w ...An Italian cookin� holiday
in Tuscany!
Here is your chance to learn to cook the Italian way.
We are sending one lucky reader to the outskirts of Florence for a 4 day Italian cooking course at one of Flavours of Italy’s (Italian activity holiday specialists) private Tuscan villas. There is nowhere more perfect to learn to cook in the Italian way than Italy itself. At the heart of Italy is Tuscany which is synonymous with the great tastes of Italy. This fabulous prize also includes: • Group cookery lessons with a professional Tuscan chef • A visit to nearby Florence or Lucca • A private wine tasting, dinner at a local restaurant and the excellent company of a group of people, all with a love of good food and wine in common, in the timeless landscape of the Tuscan countryside.
Enter by answering the two questions below in the most interesting way that you can and complete the slogan. The winner will be the person judged by the editor to have written the most fun slogan… So be creative!
1. Which feature in this launch edition of Cibus did you most enjoy? 2. What subject would you like to see featured in future issues of Cibus? 3. In no more than 20 words complete this phrase: I would benefit most from a cooking course because ... 4. and email your entry to cibus@eslmalta.com before 20th November 2010. The winner will be notified by email.
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it’s all about food
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cibus promo
Pepe Nero Pepe Nero is not one, but two restaurant concepts, closely knit yet distinctly different. A Pizza-Pasta place flanks an À La Carte restaurant yet restaurant manager Ottavio Suda quickly underlines that this is no ordinary pizza place, or restaurant for that matter. The pizzeria aims at providing fun to its patrons thanks to a selection of truly mouth-watering pizzas that are prepared by Luciano, a top pizzaiolo trained in Italy. His tricks lie in the dough he kneads which is made up of three types of flour, as well as his eye-catching rotating log and gas oven, the only one of its kind in Malta, especially shipped from Verona. San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte and bufala mozzarella also form part of Luciano’s ingredients. As his oven bakes I browse the pizza menu, and also notice a small selection of white pizzas which, as their name implies, make no use of any red tomatoes. In steps Chef Mark Curmi who stresses that no item on his à la carte menu is pre-prepared. All his dishes are freshly made, including the restaurant’s bread with different types every day, as well as the dessert menu. Cooked in real time, and served in the al fresco section or in the striking ambience of the dining hall, the main focus of the cuisine is meat and fish of fine Mediterranean quality. The Pepe Nero signature dish would undoubtedly be the Tegamino which takes its name from the earthenware pan that slowly cooks a selection of Scottish shellfish which is covered by a soft, nicely baked pizza base that one may dip bit by bit in the tasty juices of this very attractive dish. Pepe Nero promises and delivers a culinary experience and watch out for the forthcoming Champagne and Oyster bar, opening within the restaurant.
Vault 18, Valletta Waterfront, Floriana T. 2122 2200 www.vallettawaterfront.com
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it’s all about food
restaurant words Josef Bonello photos Matthew Debono
* Please note that you may only return the same quantity of pots as previously purchased. This means that you will get a 10 € discount for each new pot you purchase.
CHANGE YOUR COOKWARE
FROM OLD TO NEW Give back your old pots – no matter which brand. Buy a new SILIT cookware set and get up to
10,– EUR DISCOUNT*. for each pot.
The Point Sliema T: 20601055 n Naxxar Road San Gwan T: 21386812
Pure cooking enjoyment.
interview
Chef, restaurateur, author, multiple award winner
Meet Chef
Michael Schlow
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While all chefs have an affinity for food, Michael differentiates himself with his commitment to the dining experience and is recognised as one of the leading chefs in the USA. Since moving to Boston from New York City in 1995, Schlow has helped define and shape the city’s restaurant landscape. With four acclaimed restaurants and countless culinary accolades, including Food and Wine’s “Best New Chefs in America” and the “Robert Mandavi Culinary Award of Excellence,” Michael’s unparalleled skill continues to influence the industry. In addition to a wide range of international cuisines, Michael is known for his use of low temperature cooking, which results in succulent, tender dishes. Michael’s friend and colleague, Chef Mario Batali experienced this unique cooking technique and was enamoured by the results, which he describes in the forward to Michael’s book as “a range of flavours and textures unlike anything [he’d] been making or tasting.” Honouring the tradition and social importance of food while recognising the realities of life today, Michael penned his widely renowned cookbook, It’s About Time (Steelforth Press, 2005). Rather than presenting recipes
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it’s all about food
by category, they are ordered by time. Although bestowed with the distinguishable James Beard Award, Michael warmly invites even the most amateur chef to test their culinary abilities. Encouraged and grounded by his disciplined upbringing, Michael applied his love of cooking and strong work ethics at The Academy of Culinary Arts in New Jersey. He went on to work for various culinary greats such as Pino Luongo, Mark Strausman, and Craig Shelton, developing a solid foundation for himself in the restaurant industry. Michael can be seen on various network and cable programs including The Today Show, Good Morning America, Nightline, The Early Show and Food Network. Most recently, he competed on the special Top Chef Masters series on Bravo. In May 2006, Michael launched Good Essen (“Good Eating”), which now handles all of his culinary activities and ventures. It’s through Good Essen that he is consultant for companies like Marriott, Renaissance, The Greatest Bar, and more. Michael is also known for his philanthropy, participating in numerous charity benefits including the Cam Neely Foundation for which he pledged to donate his winnings on Top Chef Masters.
interview
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The Schlow Bur�er Yields 2 burgers In�redients • • • • • • • • •
500g. ground beef (Ask the butcher for 80% lean) 30g. (2 tablespoons) extra virgin-olive oil Salt and fresh ground pepper 4 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 teaspoons prepared white horseradish Juice of half a lemon 2 thick slices of good quality cheddar cheese 2 hamburger buns, split in half Crispy onions (recipe follows)
NOTE: The sauce can be made up to three days ahead; the onions can be prepared early on the day they will be served.
photos Joe Greene
Steps 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Combine the ground beef with the olive oil, salt, and plenty of black pepper. Divide the meat into two 250g. patties and refrigerate until the grill is ready (Don’t do this more than an hour in advance) Combine mayonnaise, horseradish, and lemon juice in a mixing bowl and season with black pepper. (You can do this ahead of time and store it in the fridge.) Heat the grill to high. Take the hamburgers out of the refrigerator 5 to 7 minutes before you are ready to grill them. Place the burgers on the preheated grill and cook 1 ½ minutes (for rare). Give the burgers a quarter turn to “mark” them, and cook 1 ½ more minutes. Flip the burgers over and cook 1 ½ minutes.
Crispy Onions
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2 3
Yields about ½ cup, enough for 2 burgers • 1 large yellow onion, sliced into very thin rings, 1/3-to-1/8-inch thick • 2 cups canola oil Place onion rings and oil in a small sauce pot. (Don’t worry if the rings break apart; it won’t ruin the final product.) Bring to a boil over high heat, and then reduce heat to a very low simmer. The heat releases the onion’s natural sugars, and in essence, causes them to melt.
9 Rotate a quarter-turn to “mark” and cook 1 ½ more minutes. 10 Transfer the burgers to the grill’s top shelf or to a cooler section of the 11 12 13 14 15
4 5
grill and cover each one with a slice of cheese. Turn the grill off and shut the lid. After 4 minutes, open the lid. The cheese will be melted and the burgers cooked rare to medium-rare. Toast the buns, if desired, and place a burger on each. Spread plenty of the horseradish sauce on each burger; it should drip down the sides. Top with Crispy Onions and season with freshly ground black pepper. Slather more sauce on the other half of the bun and place it on the top of the burger.
Turn the onions with a fork every thirty seconds or so, and cook until they turn golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Adjust the heat if needed to maintain a low simmer. Remove the onions from the oil and arrange in a single layer on paper towels. (At this point the onion won’t yet be crispy, but I promise you that after a few minutes, as the caramelized sugars cool and harden, the onions will become deliciously crisp.)
* it’s all about food * 21
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spots
1. EcoPure
The handy built- in handle makes changing the new 10 ltr bottle easy to use. Made of sustainable and sturdy polycarbonate, they are more than seven times as recycle – friendly as glass. EcoPure water coolers are stylish and are ideal for your office and home. EcoPure Beverages Services. Tel: 23814411 email: eco@farsons.com
2. Ta’ Marija Restaurant
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4.
At Ta’ Marija treat yourself to a unique night out! On Thursday nights, try out our mouth-watering Fenkata menu at just €22 per person – along with our lavish Saturday buffet dinners and Sunday buffet lunches at only €20.50 per person. On these three days, the fifth person dining eats free! (conditions apply). Indulge in Maltese tradition as only Ta’ Marija restaurant knows how. Family-run since 1964, this award winning restaurant is not just about good traditional Maltese food. Every Wednesday and Friday evening you can join in their Maltese Extravaganza Night that includes jovial musicians and folklore dancers. Call on 2143 4444 or email us at info@tamarija.com.
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Pulltex Wine Accessories
Legend tells that the artist, until he has chosen the adequate frame, the appropriate lighting and the perfect placement, could not consider his work as completed. Pulltex has created the ideal frame in which to experience and enjoy one’s passion for wine. Discover a complete collection of high quality accessories and functionality that has been designed to surprise & be surprised. An exclusive selection of Pulltex wine accessories are available at Master Cellars Ltd, Oratory Street , Naxxar. Tel: 21417666 email: sales@mastercellars.com.mt
Point de Vue Restaurant
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Point de Vue in Rabat has recently created a selection of scrumptious Staff Party Menus that are diverse and satisfy all tastes. Menus include a delightful selection of meat, chicken, seafood items as well as our popular combos that bring together some of our more renowned dishes. A barbequed suckling pig or lamb can be prepared on request. Open everyday from 8am till 11pm. 5, Saqqajja, Rabat. Tel: 21454117, 7992 0306
5. John Smith’s Extra Smooth
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The UK’s No.1 ale is named after Tadcaster’s favourite son. The original John Smith began brewing in 1847, with a ready market for his quaffable beer the family business soon became a brewing empire. Today his legacy lives on through the nation’s favourite ale. John Smith’s Extra Smooth is an ale with a distinct cereal character. It has malty and caramel flavours complemented by some fruitiness. Marketed and Distributed by Farsons Beverage Imports Co. Ltd. Trade Enquiries Tel: 2381 4400 www.farsonsdirect.com
Palatino
Was first produced from locally grown grapes in 2005 with the development of five local varieties being Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah & Tempranillo, with Sauvignon Blanc & Vermentino added in 2006 & Viognier & Cabernet Franc added in 2007. Palatino aims to offer good value for money, important varietal expression and the experimentation of new varieties such as Vermentino, Viognier & Tempranillo. The brand is constantly at the forefront of innovation including the first local wine to be produced in screw cap. www. camilleriwines.com
it’s all about food
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spots
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1. Shaker.
Gessi is the prestigious name of Italian high quality designer kitchen and bathroom mixers. The price rage starts off from €80 with a 5 year warranty. We also have RO mixer’s in stock, which are also available at Shaker, Triq il-Gibjun San Gwann. Tel: 21387686 or 79298330 www.shaker.com.mt - email: sales@shaker.com.mt
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2. Alessi Petrolea pots and pans by Jasper Morrison. The aim of this third
series of Alessi pots and pans is more ambitious than ever. Jasper Morrison has tackled the difficult theme of Potness creating a small masterpiece and design with this collection. At decidedly lower prices, but without compromising on design, quality and functionality Jasper Morrison and Alessi offer a full range of pots and pans. available at Petrolea Showroom, Valley Road, Msida. Tel: 21234501, email: showroom@petroleamalta.com OPEN ALL DAY
3.
Core
A new perspective on kitchens and space: this is precisely what bulthaup b2, the unique new combination of the workbench, kitchen tool cabinet and appliance housing cabinet, offers. This astonishingly perfect solution is elemental and clear in its use of form, rational and practical in its function – just like really great ideas. Visit core for the bulthaup experience in Valley Road, on the way up to Mannarino Road B’Kara. Tel 2144 3449. www.core.com.mt www.bulthaup
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4. JDS Furniture
For a wide range of custom made kitchens, both classical or modern, visit the JDS showroom in Mellieha or the JDS outlet in Marsa and we will help you design the kitchen you desire. All kitchens are available in a wide range of solid wood finishes and veneers. JDS has also launched the new high gloss collection. For a kitchen made to meet your needs and desires visit JDS and you won’t be disappointed. JDS Furniture, Main Str. Mellieha, Tel: 2152 2390 Email: info@jdsfurniture.com
5. Ajax Cucina
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Specifically designed to give exceptional cleaning results in your kitchen. Ajax Cucina dissolves oil stains, stubborn grime, burnt grease and food residues. Ajax Cucina is also excellent for cleaning pots, pans, stainless steel, ceramic, fridges, cookers and anything else that requires maximum cleaning power. Ajax Cucina restores splendour to your kitchen and leaves a pleasant scent of cleanliness. Ajax products are distributed by von Brockdorff Imports Ltd. Tel: 21232141
6. Granny Smith
Granny Smith Shop renowned for innovative range of giftware. Having a wide selection of menu boards, which can be hanged on walls or standing. Ideal to be placed in restaurants to provide your customers about your menu or the special dish of the day. The wine boards are great to promote your wine available. The menu boards come in all shapes and sizes. Price range starts from € 45. For further details call Granny Smith on 2141 8984
6 * it’s all about food * 23
eat pray love
Malta
Donald Caligari Conti could easily be described as a true patriot par excellence especially where the natural bounty of the Maltese islands is concerned. His fervent conviction of the genuinely humble richness of Maltese produce is very powerfully conveyed through his passionate eloquence on its merits. Meet Donald at Tal-Petut in Birgu. words Donald Caligari Conti photos George Scintilla
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it’s all about food
Welcome aboard this tasty journey that shall take us to the roots of our national food culture and bring us through the present and lead us into the future of Malta’s kitchen. This introductory entrée will seek to whet your appetite for the culinary richness of our islands and strengthen your appreciation of what our land and its Mediterranean climate can offer to one and all. I have always harboured a very strong respect for the four seasons of our calendar. Yes, we in Malta do have our Spring, our Summer, our Autumn and Winter despite the
fact that many seem to think that we only have the milder two. Each has its own temperatures, humidity levels, prevailing winds, influencing the fruit, greens, as well as fish and livestock that thrive in each of the four seasons. They also have a direct impact on our moods which, as we all know, can often control our eating pattern. Need I highlight the difference between sticky gray September and bright and cheerful April and how they affect our menus, both at home as well as our eateries? Do not Rih Fuq and Rih Isfel clearly imply the direction our mood veers towards? And now that school is in full swing, are we not more concerned with finding healthy and tasty bits with which to fill our children’s lunchboxes with as well as our own rather than an impromptu salad inspired by any crisp greens we find at the greengrocer in the freedom of summer? Those who are in charge of cooking in our households are often challenged by the daily chore of deciding upon what to cook, trying to avoid boring repetition yet still trying to keep to easy-to-prepare quick dishes that potentially will need to satisfy two, three, four or even more different ‘customers’ at home. If we listen carefully enough, our land itself will pitch in with clear suggestions of what is healthy, tasty and freshly in season. I will do my utmost in this and future pieces to serve as mediator and propose easy yet uniquely mouthwatering ways of savouring the produce of our land and I promise you, it will be great fun! Of course we all know that Malta’s geographical position has meant that throughout the ages, a colourful variety of peoples
traditional tastes
have left their influences upon our natives lifestyle and hence it is no wonder that we still hold imported produce with high regard, even higher at times than it might truly merit. I too recognise the gastronomic richness of so many neighbouring and distant countries, yet it is such a pity that this often comes at the expense of appreciating our own. It is true that this notion is changing yet do we realise that this floating pebble with its 240 kilometres squared of rock has not always settled to being a passive recipient but has also boldly provided its foreign guests with its very own cumin from Comino, olives and their oil which was so avidly sought-after by the Romans and its delicious honey which the Knights of St John prized so highly. Our bee-syrup was made from nectar collected from wild thyme and fennel that sprawl over our garrigue as well as our prolific citrus trees,
making it a highly valued gift fit enough for royalty. This tiny speck of land has generously sustained its settlers for millennia. It kept its mythical temple-builders well-nourished and healthy enough for their monumental task. It has seen its people through the suppression of occupiers and the devastation of plagues and wars whose overwhelming hardship served to hone their skills in preserving food, preparations from one season to the next and secretly stashed away for that proverbial rainy day. Today, these are seen as treasure troves and highly cherished by genuine food lovers. On this journey, we will also rekindle a sense of worth of our islands’ culinary traditions and use them for our own benefit today, whilst highlighting the laborious and backbreaking missions carried out by our farmers and fishermen whose
hard work is often overlooked despite its invaluable importance in bringing food to our tables. I shall tirelessly strive to instill a pride that we can clearly see in Italians as they speak of, say, their Spaghetti Carbonara or the French and their Coq au Vin which humbly evolved into a national dish from a simply boiled cockerel with the addition of a few other ingredients including wine. Speaking of which, do we not have our very own Fenek fl-Inbid with onion and garlic? Yet, does our rabbit really need to be served with chips which we inherited from recent occupiers? Well maybe if we like them so much, yet I like giving this dish an even more authentic palate by including bay leaf, carob syrup, pepper (bzar ahmar) and dried Maltese figs. And not only Maltese, but specifically from Bahrija. Some of our villages too have their own bounty to offer, as does Mgarr with its juicy strawberries that are celebrated in summer yet should also be used in other seasons as jams that we can be spread on a toasted ftira as well as by bakers
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and confectioners in their sweet delights. And when Lent announces the pending arrival of Easter, I will prepare some Karamelli for all to enjoy. Wait a minute! Not those flat tiles of caramelised sugar you can buy wrapped in tracing paper of course! Mine I make from nourishing carob syrup which has been used as the ultimate cough syrup for ages yet I will also use it for carob toffees in ice cream used to celebrate baptism. You see, our faith and various beliefs also leave definite influences of what we eat and when, whether we are of Christian, Muslim, Hindu, Buddhist or any other religious persuasion. This journey will continue in our next issue yet I leave you with the romantic yet nonetheless grueling image of the men, women and children who toil our land, farm our livestock and fish our seas come rain or shine and whose hard work and precious humility that mimics that of the land they toil in, serve to bring nourishment to our tables and a sense of wellness that only fresh food can give.
* it’s all about food * 25
traditional tastes
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Light, fresh, healthy and a tasty treat that is totally Maltese
Gbejna Salad
Fresh Local goat cheese Rucola salad • Fresh Local Goat Cheese 4 • 100g Ricotta • 350g Rucola • 350g Fresh Tomatoes 2
serves 4
• Olive oil 6 table spoons • Purée of Sundried Tomatoes 2 spoons • Pesto di Basilico 2 spoons
Steps 1 Toss Rucola leaves with Olive Oil, Diced Fresh Tomatoes, two spoons of Dried Tomato Purée. 2 One spoon of Pesto di Basilico. 3 Crumble Ricotta and half Fresh Goat Cheese. 4 Plate Rucola salad in deep plate, sprinkle Ricotta on salad and place Cheeselets on top. 5 Dress rim of plate with Pesto di Basilico drops together with Olive Oil. 6 Can be served with toasted local bread on side. Tips
Try to avoid pepper as local Rucola is already peppery. Can also add pieces of diced dried figs.
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PREPARED LOCALLY WITH FRESH, LOCALLY GROWN PRODUCE There are a number of good reasons why we should buy local products. Most importantly it means that the vegetables have not travelled long distances whilst ensuring that our product is fresh. Our Caponata is a delicious blend of locally grown aubergines, tomatoes, onions and green and red pepper bells. Serve it cold as a side dish with fish, meat or chicken or to keep it completely local, simply spread on a nice chunky slice of fresh Maltese bread.
Tel: 2549 8000
traditional tastes
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When you think back to the flavours of your childhood this is the taste that you are remembering, sheer bliss!
Ricotta ravioli
with a Tapenade of Olives and Capers • 48 ricotta ravioli • 40g capers ………Rinsed • 100g pitted olives ………Rinsed • 8 oil table spoons
serves 4
• 2 medium sized diced fresh tomatoes • Chopped parsley • 4 table spoons Pesto di Basilico
Steps 1 Blend capers together with olives (not too smooth) add some extra oil to loosen and mix in pesto together with diced tomatoes and leave for hour to set in fridge bowl, add tapenade and toss until pasta is coated and if too dry, add some extra olive oil Plate and sprinkle with parsley.
2 Boil Ravioli and remove and strain, place in large
Tips
Can grate local dried goat cheese on top of pasta when served
* it’s all about food * 29
cibus promo
i Fratelli
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restaurant words Mike Dimbleby photos Matthew Debono
I Fratelli Restaurant at Valletta Waterfront is under the new management of Joe Fenech Soler, who has brought along super experienced chef Joseph Grech affectionately known to Maltese food lovers as Binbinu. Between them they have more than five decades’ experience in the restaurant business and their teaming at I Fratelli should tell those who know their restaurants, that this means two things… the food will be first class and the concept of your dining experience will be something special. Joe already has some exciting plans close to completion for this spacious, cool and relaxing eatery with a new buffet lunch for time-pressed business diners which will give an alternative to the re-vamped à-la-carte menu. The taste of I Fratelli remains Mediterranean with the emphasis on prime meat, pasta and fish dishes backed by Chef Joseph’s special touch and Joe’s unique sense of hospitality. Joe Fenech Soler is excited about making full use of the incredible outdoor area and plans to utilise this to the full. Guests at I Fratelli will be able to dine with the vista of Grand Harbour laid out before them before enjoying a completely new entertainment concept at the Waterfront… the My Way piano bar, which will provide sophisticated, elegant live entertainment where the discerning over thirties can be part of a private lounge club where they can enjoy their drinks, cocktails and delicious specially created finger food in cool comfort. I Fratelli Restaurant is also available for private, staff or promotional functions (seating 75 indoors). Call to discuss a menu customised to your event and budget. For something special try I Fratelli Restaurant where experience counts. I Fratelli Restaurant open from 10:00 till very late all day every day.
I Fratelli, Valletta Waterfront, Floriana T: 2122 8874, 2722 8873 www.vallettawaterfront.com
* it’s all about food * 31
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interview
Bernd Food Thirty-two year old Bernd Maier is the new Executive Chef of the Phoenicia Hotel. His role will give him responsibility over the Phoenicia Hotel’s kitchens, including its two restaurants, the Phoenix Restaurant and the Pegasus Brasserie.
words Cibus Team photos Matthew Debono
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it’s all about food
He fondly remembers how he baked his first cake at the tender age of eight, it was for his teacher’s birthday, he recalls. His most obvious influence came from his mother who worked as a chef in a number of hotels and restaurants. She specialised and excelled in traditional Austrian cuisine but was so focused on this style, that baking a mere pizza would often cause her a problem. As we sipped our coffees at the Palm Court Lounge Bernd explained how his mother eventually went on to open her own restaurant and Bernd believed that she had just laid his golden egg and that his future path was clearly laid out. Frau Maier however had other ideas. Bernd affectionately recalls how when he was 15 years of age, she ‘kicked him out’ of the comfort of his nest and packed him off to train in the hotel and catering business. After four years of very tough apprenticeship in restaurant and kitchen management which were too deeply steeped in traditional practices, he decided that he could no longer stand the heat in the kitchen and opted for an air-conditioned nineto-five office job in IT. He still kept in touch with the food industry and after persistent encouragement from a chef friend of his, he one day packed his beloved snowboard in his car, asked his mother to take care of his flat which he had just rented, and drove off to Tirol to pick up the trail where he had left off. And what a trail it turned out to be! In ten years he left his mark on as many hotels and restaurants in his homeland, moving through roles as Sous Chef, Chef Patissier, Head Chef and Executive Chef including stints in Michelin-rated and Gault Millau-awarded restaurants and hotels. He picks Hotel Hahnenhof**** Kitzbühel, Tirol and Hotel Hartenfels**** Lech/Zug am Arlberg as two very significant workplaces in his career so far. At the end of this whirlwind decade, Chef Maier moved to Malta in 2007 to savour his first Mediterranean experience. I asked Bernd if he has a favourite cuisine. He typically likens his gastronomic tendencies to those in his approach to
He is very unassuming and disciplined yet his unpretentious expression tends to mask an underlying intensity which I am sure is fully unleashed in his kitchen. music. He likes all kinds of music, yet will only listen to what he believes to be the best in each genre, be it rock, pop, jazz or any other. The same applies to his cuisine and he firmly believes that fusion is the way to go if you want to fully exploit the absolute joy of food. Yet he did reveal that his favourite dish is Penne all’Arrabiata and his very own wine list will be dominated by Australian Shiraz, even with fish! I discussed the food and health issue with him implying that the tastier parts of food are not always the healthier options. Bernd, young, slim and fit, smiles mischievously as he admits that fat content serves to carry flavour whilst salt and sugar help our palate to open up. Butter is also irreplaceable in many cuisines, especially in sweet preparations. Yet of course, moderation is the key factor. When discussing the Phoenicia’s new menu, he reveals that Maltese potatoes as well as his beloved gbejna will feature prominently and it soon becomes clear that this menu will be bursting with strong flavours which is consistent with the character of Bernd’s favourite food and wine. The menu, he insists, is not about what Bernd can cook, but more about who Bernd really is! My table is booked for this evening. Winemakers often remark that at least 80% of a fine wine is made in the vineyard. No one can make top wine from poor grapes, even though some have been successful in inverting that. Bernd firmly agrees that it is identical in fine cuisine. A tasteless tomato will remain tasteless no matter what the chef does to it and a tough steak will stay that way. In fact he has little doubt that Malta should hasten towards organic agriculture which would vastly improve our local produce which already has elements of exceptional quality. I dared ask him for a tip he would give anyone interested in the preparation of fine food. Without a moment’s pause he underlined that an often overlooked secret is that of paying meticulous attention to every single ingredient. A carrot, he said, is as important as a beef fillet and if not treated properly, it will tell on the dish. Bernd comes across as a cool, relaxed guy. He chooses to wear a black Chef’s coat because he wants to look different. He is very unassuming and disciplined yet his unpretentious expression tends to mask an underlying intensity which I am sure is fully unleashed in his kitchen. Now that I met Chef Maier, I look forward to getting to know him even better through the food he prepares.
* it’s all about food * 33
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cibus promo
Love Those Oats, Yum!
Great for…. Helping to keep blood sugar levels steady, helping to prevent carb cravings, helping to lower cholesterol, fighting SAD. Eating oats everyday is a great way to lead a healthy lifestyle. Whether it’s a bowl of muesli, a flapjack or a crunchy topping, oats help satisfy both your taste buds and your waistline. Research shows that the soluble fibre in oats helps slow the digestion and absorption of carbohydrates and helps keep blood sugar levels constant – perfect for those looking to avoid snacking. That’s not the only way oats can help you keep your weight steady. Oats help beat the symptoms of Seasonal Affective Disorder by boosting the brain’s level of serotonin, a feel-good chemical, which tends to fall in winter. And as serotonin regulates sleep and appetite, eating oats makes us feel less tired and depressed, and consequently control overeating. Oats can help to lower blood cholesterol levels, which in turn lowers the risk of heart disease and stroke. Oats are a good source of complex carbohydrates, protein and fibre. They are also a rich source of vitamins and minerals such as selenium, phosphorous, and manganese and have smaller amounts of folic acid, Vitamin E, copper and zinc. A perfect all rounder from birth to old age! Oats have been produced and consumed for thousands of years the world over. Once harvested oat grains are specially processed to provide us with a variety of products. Even though the grains are hulled, they still have their bran and germ intact, allowing them to preserve all their fibre and nutrients. The most popular form of oats are flakes (or rolled oats) which are hulled, steamed and rolled. In the kitchen they are super versatile, as they cook quickly, just under 10 minutes and easy to use. These are used in the preparation of porridge, mueslis and crumbles. There is a larger flake (jumbo) which is can be used in the same way but has a slightly chewier bite. Oat bran is the outer layer of the grain, and the most sought after by health enthusiasts due to its health boosting properties. It can be added to breakfast cereals and yogurt as well as muffins, biscuits and cakes. Oat meal is coarsely ground oat flakes and the much preferred porridge ingredient of the Scots. It is quicker to prepare than oats and is the main ingredient of oatcakes and digestive biscuits.
Breakfast Booster • 1 banana, sliced • 30g Good Earth oat flakes • 1anda half tbsp Good Earth
blueberries
• 1 tbsp Good Earth
serves 1
Flaked Almonds • A drizzle of Good Earth Wilde Thyme honey
• 125g Alpro yofu of your choice Arrange the banana slices at the bottom of the glass and spoon over the oat flakes. Next sprinkle the blueberries over the flakes and pour over the natural yofu. Sprinkle over the flaked almonds and drizzle with some wilde thyme honey.
Chocolate, Raisin & Oat Cookies
makes 24
• 150g butter • 75g Billingtons unrefined light
• ½ tsp Doves Farm bicarbonate
muscovado sugar • 1 egg beaten • 1 tsp vanilla extract • 75g Good Earth wholemeal flour • 1 tsp Good Earth mixed spice
• 150g Good Earth oat flakes • 50g Good Earth Californian
of soda
raisins • 50g chocolate chips
Preheat the oven to 190C/Gas Mark 5. Cream together the butter and sugar. Beat in the egg, 2 tbsp water and the vanilla essence. Sift in the flour, spice, and bicarbonate of soda. Stir through the oats, raisins and chocolate. Line baking sheets with baking paper. Place walnut sized pieces of the cookie mixture onto the sheets and flatten slightly with the back of a fork. Bake for 10-15 minutes until golden. GOOD EARTH DISTRIBUTORS LIMITED T. 2143 1309 www.goodearth.com.mt
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it’s all about food
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spots
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Granny Smith
Granny Smith shop offers a wide variety of life size characters that give a restaurant, bar or business establishment that special effective look. There is a choice of stock available, with a much larger range also available to order (delivery time apply). Price range starts from €89. Sizes from 18 inches up to life size figures (6ft). For further details call Granny Smith on 21419984.
Excelsior Hotel
Welcome to the new Sunday Lunch Season at the Grand Hotel Excelsior. This is an opportunity for diners to feast on a never-ending exploration of the world’s finest cuisines to include Mediterranean, Middle Eastern, Asian plus a lavish spread of desserts and cheeses. Stunning harbour views complete this unique dining experience. Advance bookings are recommended. Call the Excelsior now on 21250520 or email food.beverage@excelsior.com.mt. We look forward to hosting you!
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Giorinox
Renowned for reliable products, Giorinox have been producing Pots, Pans, Cutlery and Flatware of the highest quality for the past 45 years. C.E.F. (Trading) Co. Ltd., have been associated with these high quality products for almost that entire time (40 years). Imparting and distributing Giorinox for almost four decades to generations of satisfied customers. All Giorinox products carry a 25 year Lifetime Guarantee. Items can be bought in sets or loose according to requirements. For enquires call 21236732 or e-mail info@ceftrading.com
Prime Meat Shops
Prime Meat Shops offer an impressively wide variety of fresh and frozen meats for every occasion. Oven-ready joints, succulent steaks, marinated meats, stuffed specials, fresh pork and veal cuts and much more! Shops established in Marsa, Qormi, Paola, Zejtun, Naxxar, Sliema, Qawra, St Paul’s Bay and Mellieha. New shop opening shortly in B’Kara. Tel: 2122 2291/2 email: info@primemalta.com www.primemalta.com Facebook: PRIME RECIPES 4 U
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Hilton
The Sunday Buffet Lunch at the Hilton is back! Featuring over 100 different items, live cooking stations and impeccable service, excellent value for money Sunday buffet lunch costs just at €33 per person with children over 12 at half price (€16.50). Children up to 12 years of age eat free. The Oceana restaurant also offers the customary Hilton Malta hospitality by making available free parking to Sunday Buffet Lunch patrons. Tel: 2138 3383
Devon Biscuits
Consolidated Biscuit Co. Ltd produces top-quality biscuits, traditional galletti, baked confectionery and snack foods which are enjoyed throughout Europe, the Middle East, Africa and Americas under different brand names. The Devon brand consists of a wide assortment of traditional biscuits ranging from chocolate coated, cookies, cream-filled, plain and savoury crackers to semi-sweet biscuits. Consolidated Biscuit co Ltd is BRC (British Retail Consortium) certified. www.cbiscuits.com Tel: 2144 0361
it’s all about food
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spots
1. Forestals
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KitchenAid® stands for beautiful design, reliability, efficiency and effectiveness - built to look and feel good. The KitchenAid Artisan mixer has a 5 quart bowl with ergonomic hand pouring shield and tilt back mixer head design that provides easy access to the bowl. A smooth rounded design allows for easy cleaning and usage. The mixing bowl has an ergonomic handle for better grip and easy handling, the large capacity bowl is perfect for preparing small to large quantities of food. Available at the Forestals showroom in Mriehel. Tel: 23436000. www.forestals.com, email: info@forestals.com
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Petrolea
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Pyroflam can be used in the oven or top of stove (not good for induction) Pyroflam is ideal for serving straight from hob to table. All items can be placed into the fridge and freezer and are dishwasher proof. Pyroflam has now been relaunched and is available at Petrolea Showroom, Valley Road, Msida. Tel: 21234501, email: showroom@petroleamalta.com OPEN ALL DAY
Ajax Sgrassatore Multi-Azione,
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Multi-Surface Degreasing Power for all washable surfaces. It cuts through dirt, stubborn stains, grime and grease effortlessly, leaving a brilliant shine and pleasant clean scent. Ajax Sgrassatore Multi-Azione is most ideal for spotless hygenic cleaning of bathrooms, kitchens, plastics, wood and any surface that requires Ajax Cleaning Power. Ajax products are distributed by von Brockdorff Imports Ltd. Tel: 21232141.
Tower Supermarket
Tower Supermarket in Sliema. With four and a half decades of experience in retail credits, it’s success to a firm belief in customer satisfaction, achieved by offering great service and a vast choice of items at competitive prices. Tower Supermarket also offers free parking and delivery to all customers who can now benefit from the convenience of ordering online 24 hours a day. As from this month Tower Supermarket have refurbished their meat shop offering an even larger selection of fresh meat. Visit www.towersupermarket.com Tel: 2134 5586
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5. Collis Williams – Femarelle
Femarelle is a natural, safe and effective treatment for menopause and beyond, and it’s now available in Malta! Two tablets a day is all you need to take control of your menopause. In just one month, three out of four women note a 90% significant improvement in their wellbeing. Femarelle also has lasting benefits in your bone health. Enquiries: Collis Williams Ltd, 15, Republic Street Valletta, Tel: 2124 4847
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6. Good Earth
Nutritious and delicious, Alpro yofu (yogurt alternatives) are made with soya bean goodness and are naturally low in saturated fat. They contain no artificial sweeteners, colours or preservatives. Enjoy on their own, with fresh fruit or cereal as part of a healthy breakfast. Five flavours available; Natural, Forest Fruits and Strawberry, Raspberry and Vanilla, Exotic Fruits and Peach, Peach-Pear and Strawberry-Banana. Trade Enquiries Tel: 21431309
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Prestige – the individual diversity.
Countless styles, endless possibilities creating flooring solutions as diverse as the world in which we live. Laminated and Engineered floors combined with our experience... Guaranteed peace of mind beneath your feet.
Visit us at Brands International Ltd, 125, Naxxar Rd., B’Kara T: +356 27444110, 79771100 E: kieron@brands.com.mt W: www.brands.com.mt
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Cibus chef challen�e We challenged Le Meridien’s talented young Executive Head Chef, Reuben Grixti, to create a couple of dishes including a mystery product. This month we’ve chosen Kinnie, Malta’s favourite soft drink as our mystery ingredient. The challenge was to either include the ingredient or come up with a dish to complement it. Rueben did both!. For next issue of Cibus email us your suggested mystery ingredient with which we can challenge our featured chef. Send your emails to cibus@eslmalta.com. The one we select as the most fun and challenging will win a meal for two.
Pork filled wrapped in Pancetta
serves 4
Enhanced by a thyme and Kinnie reduction In�redients:
• 2 pork fillets (trimmed) • 10 thin slices of Pancetta • Herbs: fresh thyme,
parsley, chives (chopped) • 220gr of potatoes (peeled
and cut in cubes) • 2 red and yellow bell peppers • 120g broccoli • 12 green asparagus • 350ml Kinnie • 1 tot of Port • 1 onion • 30gr sugar • 5gr coriander • 1 star anise • 20ml honey
Method: 1 Season the fillets, then cut each of them into individual portions of around 200gr each. 2 Roll the fillets in the chopped herbs until they are uniformly covered. 3 On your working surface, place the slices of Pancetta on a line, overlapping. 4 Place the pork fillets crossway on top and wrap up, smooth the joints with your hands. 5 In a hot non stick pan, fry the wrapped fillets and flip them regularly to seal the pancetta wrappers. 6 Remove from the pan as soon as the cooking gave them a colour on all sides. 7 Transfer the fillets in the oven, preheated at 180ºc. 8 Leave fillets to cook for 15min then turn them and cook for an additional 8 minutes. 9 Leave the fillets to rest for 5-10minutes before serving. Kinnie Sauce: 1 In a sauce pan, warm the oil over a medium heat. 2 Sweat the chopped onion and thyme. 3 Stir in the star anise, sugar, honey and Port. 4 Add the Kinnie and bring to the boil. 5 Simmer for 12 minutes and reduce.
Accompaniments:
Gently boil the broccoli and asparagus until tender. Pan fry the potatoes and grill the bell peppers. Season and serve.
it’s all about food
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mystery ingredient
chef challen�e
2
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Smoked Salmon Club Sandwich
serves 4
Ingredients:
• • • • • • • • • •
60gr cream cheese 1 carrot (shredded) 1 yellow bell pepper (very finely chopped) 3 tomatoes (nice and firm), thinly sliced 2 tbs of chopped fresh chives 12 slices of multigrain bread 12 thin slices of smoked salmon 10 lettuce leaves 1 cucumber thinly sliced Salt and pepper
Method: 1 For vegetable and cheese spread:
• In a bowl, stir together cream cheese, carrot, bell peppers and chives. • Add salt and pepper. 2 Spread 1 slice of the bread with vegetable and cheese spread. 2 Arrange 1 smoke salmon slice on top. 3 Add some lettuce leaves. 4 Spread another slice of bread with vegetable spread. 5 Set this slice on top of sandwich base, spread side up. 6 Arrange another smoke salmon layer. 7 Place cucumber and tomato slices on it. 8 Top the sandwich with another slice of bread. 9 Repeat this with the remaining ingredients. 10 Grill the sandwiches and cut into quarters. Serve with freshly tossed salad and shoestring fries.
photo Matthew Debono
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BOV MasterCard Prepaid Cards
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BOV 27186
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2131 2020
Terms and conditions apply. Issued by Bank of Valletta p.l.c., 58, Zachary Street, Valletta VLT 1130 - Malta
cibus promo
Ta’ Marku
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wine bar & restaurant words Mike Dimbleby photos Matthew Debono
In the heart of Naxxar, tucked away in one of the narrow lanes of this charming village, is a hidden treasure - Ta’ Marku, an eatery with a real difference. After considerable refurbishment in recent months, the new proprietors of Ta’ Marku offer tradition, combined with modern convenience in a fusion of styles that really work. The Wine Bar/Restaurant is warm, welcoming and packed with character, reflecting a dept of history. No compromises have been made up on to the minute conveniences such as WI-FI, an excellent sound system and well-designed lighting. The new management prides itself upon the warm welcome Ta’ Marku clients enjoy, which combined with an extensive local and foreign wine list and a truly impressive menu, makes this place a venue to visit more than once. The catering concept is described as an ‘on the board’ menu with specials featuring every day, including the distinctively prepared fenkata, fresh ribeye and seafood amongst others. These specials come alongside other regular items that include a wide variety of pies, pasta dishes such as the outstanding homemade ravjul, and il-Hobza. Ta’ Marku serves from morning till night. In the mornings, guests may opt for brunch (including English breakfast), light snacks, or simply enjoy coffee or tea together with a delicious croissant, apple pie or some other cake variety. In the evening orders are accepted till midnight, where customers are spoilt for choice in selecting one or more dishes from the varied menu. Food, be it a light snack or a bounteous platter, can be enjoyed in three very attractive areas, including an upstairs private room. This room lends itself perfectly for private functions and standing up events, where all finger food is prepared in-house. Worth noting is the fact that in having separate areas, Ta’ Marku is an ideal venue for intimate dinners. Furthermore, the catering concept makes the place ideal for business functions, with lots more in the pipeline. The new management strives to be innovative on what to offer customers. In line with this outlook, apart from the already established Fenkatas that are ideal for group get-togethers, Ta’ Marku has recently introduced Pasta Nights, wherein guests are served three distinct and mouth watering pasta dishes. Ta’ Marku… interesting, tasty, welcoming and a total pleasure in which to enjoy fine food, wine and good company.
Ta’ Marku Kafe & Wine Bar
Ta’ Marku, 5, Alley 6, St Lucy Street, Naxxar T: 21415889, E: tamarku@go.net.mt Open from Monday to Sunday
* it’s all about food * 57
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feature
start up essentials
words Mike Dimbleby
Young single men and women leaving home and setting up home for themselves and living the bachelor/bachelorette life is no longer unusual here in Malta... Although we all probably still know of someone in their thirties or forties who is still spoiled by that extraordinary being – a Maltese mother! But that is becoming increasingly rare. So what are the essentials for the start up kitchen if the cost and the zits of a life lived on takeaways is to be avoided? First and foremost a griddle pan. this piece of equipment is brilliant. it is a heavy ribbed cast iron best friend in the kitchen – use it to cook pretty much everything, just avoid dropping it on your toe as you will be in a
plaster cast for a month or two. Two good sharp knives, one big and one small,. that’s it really except to say keep them sharp. A couple of really good quality wine glasses (two for if you get lucky), and good quality because believe it or not the wine will taste better from a first class glass. A nice big pasta pot and strainer because – well because you will try your best to cook pasta as good as your mums. A corkscrew with built in bottle opener – say no more. A really long handled wooden spoon
Heinz Beanz Ricotta & Spinach Pie serves 4
In�redients
• 270g packet filo pastry • 100g baby spinach • 1 clove garlic, peeled
and crushed
Steps
1
2 3
64 *
Preheat the oven to 200ºC /gas mark 6 Rinse the spinach with water and drain. Cook the spinach with the garlic in a large pan until it wilts. Add the beans and the cheese and
it’s all about food
• 415g can Heinz Beanz • 250g low fat ricotta cheese • Pinch of nutmeg • 2 tbsp low fat spread melted season with the nutmeg
4 Brush an ovenproof dish with a 5 6
little low fat spread and then line with a layer of filo pastry. Brush the top of the pastry with more spread Top with 2 layers
and spatula for scraping and stirring – truly the best bit of the whole cooking deal. A couple of coffee mugs for large black wake-me up coffees in the morning. A heavy duty kettle which should be easy to spot in the kitchen and equally easy to operate when half asleep. Two settings of the best cutlery and crockery that you can afford, as dropping things and cooking are inseparable. Make sure that the crockery includes medium sized bowls which will have multiple purposes including holding pasta, salad, cereals – but not necessarily at
the same time although not unheard of in the single home! A couple of basic recipe books, Delia Smith cooking for one is a good one for example. Don’t worry too much about slavishly following the recipes just use them for inspiration and ideas and of course they are always handy to fix a wobbly table. Bread, beer and baked beans – for bachelors at least is the staple diet. A wok, because they are cool, easy to use and everyone has one apparently. Here is a ‘can’t do wrong’ dish to try in your single kitchen.