ISSUE NÂş
it's all about food
March 2011
Montepulciano
Another Vintage Year Donald Caligari Conti
Maltese, healthy, wholesome and seasonal This issue’s Celebrity Chef
Nobu
The Blue Elephant
A cooking Master Class
n i w x ur y u l f o s t 3 nighfor t wo nce! in Fra 31 ge see pa
03
GED kitchens, prices starting from â‚Ź 7,000.00 inclusive of 4 Electrolux Rex appliances. Featured model Seta Line in white gloss lacquer. Also available in veneered wood finishes.
BEST/ DESIGN/ PRICE/
w. ONEPERCENT.COM.MT T. 2546 5000 E. INfO@ONEPERCENT.COM.MT A. VALLEY ROAD, BIRKIRKARA, MALTA
GOUACHE. 10
Design Diego Grandi.
a Mosta Road, Lija. LJA 9012, Malta t 2141 2222, 2741 5694. w www.ssbathrooms.com
*
editorial
welcome!
Issue 3 March 2011
Editor Joséf Bonello
Editor at Large Mike Dimbleby
Creative Director Mark Portelli
Art Director I thank God I am human.... Well…..that’s not entirely true. I so often find myself envying our cats, curled up without a single care in the world, in utter disregard of any pending bills, weight issues, ageing skeletal frame and memory cells in fast free fall that it’s supposedly more dignified so-called owner and member of the human race struggles with every day. However I can think of this one single advantage that we humans have over the rest of the animal kingdom….and that is food. Yes of course, they eat too, and if we’re not careful enough, we could even be the ones adorning their menu. However, we treat food very differently to them. For animals, food is a matter of life or death. For us humans, food is a matter of joie de vivre, of quality of life, of gastronomic delights. At this point I must spare a thought for all those people who suffer starvation and live well below any poverty line. This will always be a massive blemish on our civilisation and the world we live in, since gastronomy features very prominently as part of the affluent lifestyles that we are used to whilst others die of starvation. I reluctantly, yet dutifully, go back to the thread I had picked earlier. You see, whereas animals target their prey and devour it, we choose to cook our food, season it, garnish it and dress it even. Animals don’t. They can’t afford themselves that luxury. They must gulp down their prey before a stronger predator nicks it, and then possibly even turn its attention to them.
But wouldn’t it be great if National Geographic could snap a frog dart his tongue out at a hapless mozzie, and interrupt its recoil for a millisecond for him to season it with a teeny touch of marjoram and wrap it in water lily roots before drowning his prey in his gastric juices? And what about a lynx pouring some extra virgin olive oil and a touch of lemon on its wild boar carpaccio with a side salad of new potatoes and pickled beetroot? Or perhaps a boa constrictor simmering its rabbit in some red wine and fresh garlic with a sprinkle of peppercorns before devouring poor bunny with a sip of Shiraz? Food should not be simply edible, but thoroughly enjoyable, as we humans have turned gastronomy to an art. Edible: this is how Ambrose Bierce, American 19th Century satirist, defines the adjective: ‘Good to eat, and wholesome to digest, as a worm to a toad, a toad to a snake, a snake to a pig, a pig to a man, and a man to a worm’.
Germán Perujo
Design & Production Germán Perujo, Alan Cachia, Kevin Barun, Matthew Debono.
Photography Matthew Debono George Scintilla
Coordinator Alison Vassallo
Advertising Alberto Serra (Sales Manager) Alison Vassallo
Published by Executive Services Ltd. 183/2 Constitution Street, Mosta Tel.: 2142 2171/2/3 Email: cibus@eslmalta.com
Dare I bid ‘bon appetit’ after that? A happy Easter to you all, with heartfelt apologies to the bunny mentioned earlier. Cibus enjoys a circulation in excess of 40,000 distributed with The Sunday Times. While making every effort to satisfy our clients and readers, Executive Services Ltd. cannot be held responsible for errors or omissions in advertising or Editorials.
it’s all about food
*3
contents
contents 09 17 28 34 37 COVER PICTURE: George Scintilla
46
*
issue 3/ March 2011
gastronomic festas ST. PATRICK’S DAY
March 17th. The Traditions
traditional tastes HEALTHY, WHOLESOME AND SEASONAL More from Donald Caligari Conti
cibus special JOSÉF BONELLO VISITS MONTEPULCIANO In the heart of Tuscany
cibus team cooking FUN BUT TASTY
Cooking class at the Blue Elephant
interview MEET A TRADITIONAL CHEESEMAKER From Pienza home of Pecorino
celebrity chef NOBU
Perhaps the world’s sexiest chef
HOT news! Great tidings we bring to all those of you who are lovers of cuisine at its finest. Grapevine whispers are gathering momentum about a new restaurant to create a culinary milestone in our islands as early as May. Does the name Locanda Don Serafino of Ragusa Ibla in Sicily ring a bell? If it does, then I need not add much! If not, then worry not as luckily for you, the mountain is coming to Mohammed. It is indeed very exciting news that Antonio and Giuseppe La Rosa have set their hearts on bringing their food creations to our islands. Many are the Maltese who have traveled to Ragusa Ibla specifically for a table at their Michelin one-star rated restaurant and have had nothing but praise to heap on their experience. The La Rosa’s will open their doors to us for a more casual food experience similar to the one they already offer at their Lido Azzurro Ristorante da Serafino 1953 at Marina di Ragusa. The local venue in the St. Julians area is still under wraps and has only been disclosed to the privileged few, yet I am very reliably informed that it will be a site very worthy of the exquisite food it will be serving. By the next edition of Cibus, mine will have been two of the first feet across the welcome mat of this new food haven in Malta and my first-hand account will be dedicated to you all. Whet your appetite by visiting
www.locandadonserafino.it
it’s all about food
*5
The creative intelligence to balance style with substance Siemens performance and design excellence combine to create co-ordinated, flexible and distinctly individual kitchens.
WE HAVE MOVED... Mriehel By-Pass, Mriehel BKR 3000
Our view on Built-in kitchens is that they should be as individual as your taste in food. The Siemens Built-in range offers an effortless combination of innovative multi-function, self-cleaning and steam ovens, a sophisticated coffee centre and space saving compact dishwashers – all designed to provide a delicious blend of energy efficiency, convenience and flexible co-ordination. To view the full range of Siemens home appliances visit us at Aplan, The Atrium, Mriehel Bypass, Mriehel or on aplan.com.mt.
The future moving in.
*
gastronomic festas
cibus promo
*
St. Patrick’s day
St. Patrick’s Day is celebrated on each and every 17th of March by the Irish, those of Irish ancestry and those who have a special fondness for anything Irish.
words
Giselle Scicluna
In cities and towns all over the world, St.Patrick’s Day is unlike any other patron saint’s celebration; with mile long parades, “wearing of the green,” typical Irish music and songs, traditional food and guzzling of the famous Irish whiskey and Ireland’s best export, Guinness beer. It’s a time for fun and the coming together of whole neighbourhoods and communities. In the US where there is a vast concentration of Irish immigrants plus whole generations of descendants, the celebrations are prepared for from weeks ahead; some communities even go so far as to dye rivers or streams green! Now St. Patrick’s Day wouldn’t exist if not for the protagonist himself! Legend has it that ironically, Ireland’s patron saint was born not on the Emerald Isle, but in Wales in 385 AD. Until his sixteenth birthday Maewyn (his original name), was of a pagan denomination, until captured and sold into slavery where he found God and converted to Christianity. It was then that he adopted the Christian name Patrick and as second bishop to Ireland proceeded to preach the Christian faith. Beannachtaí na Féile Pádraig is Gaelic for best good luck wishes on St.Patrick’s Day, an almost superstitious plea for all the blessings of St Patrick’s Day and the “luck of the Irish” to go with it. There are plenty of versions regarding the origins of this expression. One such tale originates from Irish folklore and comes from the legend of the ‘Little People’ known since ancient times as leprechauns. Managing to capture a leprechaun (who would then shower you with gold) was an event of such magical proportions that it could only take place in Ireland and therefore a prayer to
Saint Patrick on his day for such a lucky occurrence to take place, would certainly not go amiss! Celtic and Viking warriors form a huge part of the Irish ancestry and with their natural ability in the art of war in bygone times ensured survival for them and their land. They became known as the ‘lucky’ people, though in this case no-one is actually sure whether survival was guaranteed through their fighting skills or just sheer luck. But then, each and every corner of the emerald isle has its own interpretation for what “The Luck of the Irish” is all about! So, why is it celebrated on March 17th? According to lore it is the date of death of the great man himself. While the religious holiday began in Ireland, where mass is celebrated in a big way even today, one of the most renowned St. Patrick’s Day celebrations, the St. Patrick’s Day parade, began not in Ireland but in America. It was held for the first time in New York City on March 17, 1762; a parade by Irish soldiers then serving in the English army, helping them reconnect to the then already numerous Irish presence in the US...a home away from home. To this day, St.Paddy’s Day as he’s affectionately known, in the heart of the Irish and those who are Irish at heart remains the traditional day for offering prayers, reclaiming their roots and remembering loved ones near and far, before the serious business of celebrating the life of Ireland’s best-loved saint begins. To help you celebrate St. Patricks’ Day check out our delicious Guinness recipies on the following pages >>
it’s all about food
*9
wE always makE surE wE’rE sErving up
our Freshest ideas
We’re committed to delivering a quality product and service which is reliable, flexible and honest. There’s no such thing as one size fits all, every event is unique and we set no limits as to where, when and how large or small your event is. We listen first, and together design a programme to fit. Our ideas and approach are as fresh as our ingredients and we take care of everything, right down to the last detail. We offer more than just catering and we always deliver peace of mind. Contact us on sales@islandcaterers.com.mt or call 2375 1930
www.islandcaterers.com.mt Exclusively at: Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Golden Sands (The Golden Sands Ballroom, The Crescent Suite, The Coral Suite) Radisson Blu Resort, St. Julians (The Grand Ballroom, The Carlson Suite, The Marylouise Suite, The Edge) The Coastline Hotel, The Mediterranean Conference Centre (La Vallette Hall, Sacra Infemeria, La Cassier Hall) Casino Maltese, Saluting Battery, Notre Dame Gate, Razzett L’Abjad, Palazzo Tal-Virtu.
recipe
*
RACK OF LAMB with Guinness and Mustard serves 2
This is something special. It looks stunning when finished and it’s really easy to make. Have it on a quiet night in with someone special and you’re sure to impress or even better, persuade someone special to cook it for you.
Ingredients
Method
• 1 French trimmed rack of
1.
lamb (ask your butcher to do it for you) • Herb breadcrumbs (you can buy them ready made) • 1/2 can of Guinness Draught • Dijon Mustard
2.
Put the lamb and the Guinness into a bowl, cover and allow to marinate in the fridge for 6 – 8 hours. Take the lamb out and coat it with the mustard. Then press the lamb into the herb breadcrumbs. The crumbs will stick to the mustard and make a nice crust.
3.
Then simply roast in the oven at 200° C for 20 – 25 mins. Serve with roast vegetables and champ.
Delicious. “Guinness is the only beer that really makes this work. The glaze on the lamb is as rich as you’d expect from red wine.”
it’s all about food
11
*
knife grinder
Sharp Angles …or was it angels? His white van has been seen parked in the same corners of towns and villages all over Malta ever since Michelangelo Cassar, a carpenter by trade, lost his job at the turn of the new millennium.
words Joséf Bonello pictures Matthew Debono
14 *
it’s all about food
As he thought of new ways of earning his living, he decided he would take matters into his own hands and not depend on anyone else to employ him. So living up to the grandeur of his more renowned namesake, Michelangelo created his very own occupation, that of Mobile Blade Sharpener or ‘Sennien’. I met him parked right opposite the Mosta Dome and stood for ten minutes behind three clients who had a number of tools for sharpening as they waited. A tiny lady pulled out a massive pair of shears from her tattered cloth bag. Totally blackened by age and use, this pair of large scissors used by this old-fashioned seamstress must have been at least 50 years old according to the sharpener. She held it with such protection that it must surely have been inherited from a close relative and it is only such invaluable tools that can be sharpened again and again. Many newer versions are made from cheaper materials nowadays and are only fit for the bin when they start losing their edge. A few sparks later on his ‘mola’ and the lady’s shears were restored to their old sharpness
as Michelangelo tested them on bits of rags he keeps tucked away, much to the seamstress’s satisfaction. Other tools likewise sharpened would be blender and mixer blades, saws, pruning scissors and kitchen knives of course. An obviously regular client was next as he spoke to Michelangelo on various matters as the latter sharpened his breadknife and a pair of meat knives which he tested on an older edition of Cibus and other magazine pages. All sharpening is done while you wait and when business is quiet, the sharpener makes his very own knives, with rough wooden handles yet exuding reliability and efficiency. Apart from restoring sharpness, my new friend will also restore chipped tools or even reshape ones that would have lost their sharp point. Indeed I was surprised to see that, albeit at a rather slow pace, this dying trade still clings to a tiny edge and one hopes that we find ways to preserve and protect such elements of humble heritage that still have their own niche to fill in the same way that Michelangelo’s mongrel Mrs Kelly defended her owner with vehement loyalty.
traditional tastes
*
Our FOOD and its ROOTS The concept of eating wholesome food derived from what our land gives us has been betrayed by what some see as luxury imported food... In our last edition we explored our culinary roots through the seasons of Nature and local produce, the inevitable influences of our religious beliefs and by reaping from our fruitful land. I do realise however that we are still hesitant and even reluctant to appreciate the Arab and middle eastern influences on our eating habits and tend to be more grateful for the European impact on our food styles. One must remember that our trade routes are dictated by our geographical position in the middle of the Mediterranean amidst influences from Lebanon, Syria and the African Continent with Phoenicians and Arabs often landing on our shores and leaving their mark through their very own ingredients. Our ports may have served as a gateway to the rest of Europe for some of their highly prized spices grown in their drier and warmer climates together with exotic fruits, sweets and coffee. If we take Spain for example, it is no secret that it is greatly influenced by Morocco with the latter’s produce finding a short cut to Europe through Spanish ports. The same applies to the coffee capital of the world. Italy seems to find no difficulty in reaping the benefits of this reputation even though it was African trading routes that made this possible. Of course we still retain our European identity yet we have to appreciate that we have gained a lot and the character of our food has been enriched as we adapted our local kitchen and combined all we gained with our very own cultural influences gathered through the millennia. I myself happen to believe that our culinary foundations have suffered through our occupiers and European influences. Our ego seems to have pushed our fore fathers aside when instead it would pay us to preserve what they have passed down with regards to farming, local produce and related crafts. We still often choose to consume imported food items in fancy packages or from chefs and cooks who choose to use imported ingredients that substitute our own. Case in point is how we still see butter, margarine and other processed fats and imported dressing replace olive oil in our kitchens and on our tables. And why would one opt for imported Rucola and not native ‘Insalata’ locally known as Gargir which incidentally was introduced to our land by Arabs and not Europeans The concept of eating wholesome food derived from what our land gives us has been betrayed by what some see as luxury imported food.
recipes Donald Caligari Conti
When one talks about respecting seasons and what the land produces one needs to listen holistically to all related factors dictating harvest, storage , preparation and preservation. It is our own land that leads us to use olive oil rather than cream as it adapts better to our hot seasonal temperatures and also due to the lack of grazing land for sufficient milk-related produce. Which would you rather savour; mashed potatoes with added butter and milk or local steamed potatoes with bay leaf, rosemary and fennel seed lightly forked with sea salt and olive oil? Should one want to asses the changes in our local eating trends one should see what he or she will be eating during the upcoming Good Friday. Our traditional fasting menu is close to extinction, yet I take this opportunity to recommend tuna, ‘bakkaljaw’ (salted cod), olives and summer preserves together with spinach and anchovie pies and a simple plate of ricotta filled pasta shells with a humble meatless zalza.
photos George Scintilla
For those opting for sushi, be my guest! >>
* it’s all about food * 17
The Starter... Bon Appetite!
serves 4
Salt Dried Tuna
with Lemon and Marjoram Ingredients: • • • • •
Salt dried tuna 150 g Fresh lemons 3 Lemon rind 1 Fresh Marjoram/ mint/ parsley Olive oil 8 table spoons
• • • • • •
Chick peas 20 g Garlic ( better fresh ) Capers 25 g Local olives chopped 20 g Sea salt Crushed peppers
Method 1 Soak salt dried Tuna for two hours in fresh water rinse and remove salt 2 Dice in to small pieces and cover in olive oil in bowl and mix together with 3 4 5
squeezed juice
from three lemons Shave two rinds from lemons, shred and mix well with tuna mix Chop good amount of fresh herbs including marjoram and add to mix with capers Leave to set in fridge for two hours , before serving with cold or warm pasta add cooked chick peas season well with black pepper and sea salt and chopped parsley with some diced fresh tomatoes
* it’s all about food * 19
traditional tastes
*
Main Course...
Baked local stuffed
Boneless Cockerel drumsticks
serves 4
Ingredients • • • •
Boneless Cockerel Drumsticks 4 Minced Pork belly/Beef 150 g Sea salt teaspoon Cracked pepper
• • • •
Local fennel seed White wine two cups Rosemary Bay leaf
Method 1 Knead mince together with teaspoon of fennel seed 2 Season well with salt and pepper 3 Tightly stuff drumsticks with minces and place wide face downwards in baking dish 4 Place some sprigs of rosemary and some bay leafs in bottom of dish 5 Pour wine with some water until drumsticks are half covered 6 Bake in medium heat oven until browned Tips • Recommended to serve with flavoured steamed local potatoes with onions, and garlic with some flavoured carrots
* it’s all about food * 21
For people with taste. Join us for the launch of our new seasonal menu at Al Molo prepared by our award-winning Chef Victor Borg and taste the art of pure Italian and Mediterranean cuisines.
Al Molo is another quality outlet operated by ‘The Art of Food’ Level -5, Portomaso Marina, St. Julians • Tel: 21 384 300
traditional tastes
*
Dessert...
Sweet Dressed Ricotta filled Ravioli
serves 4
Ingredients
• 8 Ricotta Ravioli • Caster sugar 4 tablespoons
• Fresh mint • Honey 6 tablespoons • Vanilla Ice cream 4 scoops
Method 1 Boil ravioli and remove when they float to surface 2 Drain and dry and leave to cool to room temperature 3 Deep fry in sunflower oil until golden brown, remove and dry by placing on kitchen roll 4 Toss with honey while still warm and later toss in sugar and chopped fresh mint 5 Place on scoops of Ice cream and serve Tips • Best Served with Dessert Knife and spoon
* it’s all about food * 23
competition
buddha-bar Spa Š Studio Bergoend Annecy
n i w
*
in FRANCE!
We are sending a lucky reader to the Hilton Evian-les-Bains and Buddha-bar Spa in France for a 3-night stay for him and another person of his/her choice
Panoramique Hilton Evian
3 nights of Luxury for Two Enter by choosing the correct answer to the following question:
The magnificent Hilton Evian-les Bains hotel is situated on the banks of which Lake? a) Lake Como b) Lake Geneva c) Lake Lucerne email your entry to cibus@eslmalta.com before 30th March 2011. The winner will be notified by email.
AWARD INCLUDES: Hilton Breakfast, full acccess to the sauna, hammam, energy pool, hot/cold plunge, relaxation room, lifestyle classes and fitness of its Spa.
The Hilton Evian-les-Bains hotel specialises in your health and beauty stays, but is also ideal for your Seminars. Dedicated to well being and business, the Hilton Evian-les-Bains hotel offers you a warm welcome in an outstanding setting within easy reach of Italy and Switzerland.
Indulge in unique therapies & Tibetan treatments encouraging calm and well-being at The Hilton Evian Buddha-bar Spa. Work out in the Fitness Centre offering lifestyle classes & relaxation pool or choose to unwind in the Japanese bath or sauna. For further details, please contact us: buddhabarspa-evian@buddhabar.com
* it’s all about food * 31
mystery ingredient
*
Cibus Chef Challenge This month Cibus challenged Victor Borg of Al Molo Restaurant to create an original dish including a mystery ingredient, which this time was Quaker Oats
BAKED SALMON
serves 4
topped with an oat, preserved orange and Parmesan crust, pork belly and squid fricasse flavoured with maple syrup, broad bean and pea veloute. Ingredients 800 g fresh salmon filleted and cleaned 100 g oats 1/2 an orange preserved just the rind 50 g Parmesan cheese 2 spoons extra virgin olive oil 1 juice of fresh lemon 100 g pork belly pre-cooked 75 g squid, cleaned and cut in small pieces 15 g of maple syrup 25 g fresh peas 25 g broad beans, blanched in boiling water To do the sauce • 50 ml White wine(dry) • 50 ml fish stock • 50 ml fresh cream • Seasoning • • • • • • • • • • •
Method For the crust
1.
Mix the ingredients together with a blender. 2. Heat a frying pan and add the olive oil and fry the salmon for 30 seconds on both sides. 3. Put the crust on top of the salmon and bake in a preheated oven at a temp of 190 degrees for 4 min.
For the fricasse
4. Sauté the squid in some olive oil, when it is almost cooked
add the cooked pork belly and the maple syrup, cook for 2 min.
For the sauce
5. Reduce the white wine by
half then add the fish stock and reduce by half again 6. Add the fresh cream, do not boil and simmer gentle until the consistency of the sauce cover the back of the spoon. 7. Season, add the blanched broad beans and peas and serve.
it’s all about food
* 33
*
cibus team cooking
GANG
BAN
CHIANG Could the Blue Elephant’s skilled Aunnop possibly get six giggling amateurs to transform an array of raw ingredients into a delicious Thai dish? words Joséf Bonello
pictures Matthew Debono
I deftly negotiated the roomy revolving door and burst into the Hilton lobby in a breathless huff. I was late, and despite the fact that the foyer was its usual vibrant self, full of patrons darting in opposite directions, I immediately homed in onto my guests. The fact that Claudio had beaten me to it was already historic as he is known for hundreds of very valid qualities which he carries in abundance, with punctuality not being one of the prominent ones. Carina had her back to me as I entered, yet her smile seemed forgiving as she swirled around to greet her late host. Yet he knows very well, he will never live this down. She will bring it up, again, and again. Genevieve was the one I knew least so I was not quite sure how my tardiness would be received. As luck would have it, she was just unloading the nasty gastronomic experience she had had the night before with the other two and I timed my entry to perfectly receive the full scale of her disgust. I knew however, that food would save my skin on the day, as we were all guests of the Blue Elephant Restaurant for a Thai cooking lesson that promised to provide some easy, tasty fun. So I led my friends towards the restaurant’s kitchen where we were met by Melanie, the hotel’s charming Assistant Marketing Manager and the rest of our group, my colleagues Mike and Alison. Chef Aunnop was assigned the task of helping this gang of six transform an array of raw ingredients neatly placed on our individually set work-stations into a dish which would hopefully be more than just edible. Now at this point, I must spend a word or two on the culinary competence of this odd brigade which ranged from utter toast-burning novitiate as was mine, right through the more-than-solid base with a strong desire to learn like that shown by Alison, Mike and Carina, straight up to the gastronomic creativity of Genevieve and Claudio’s full-blown passion for the art and the science of cibo! Now of course, Chef Aunnop could not have known all this,
Genevieve
34 *
it’s all about food
Carina
Claudio
cibus team cooking
*
so he rightly assumed that we would all be hovering somewhere around the middle. Big mistake. To start with, my station was assigned with the largest blade in the kitchen. Right tool, in the wrong hands. Yet once in the kitchen, Aunnop quickly assumed full control as we donned our aprons and chef’s hats and set about following his step-by-step instructions. Our dish of the day would be Ban Chiang, a Thai form of stir-fried beef, with chicken or pork ably stepping in for the main ingredient if so desired. We started by slicing the rump of beef into thin strips as Carina took the lead in her clear attempts to establish herself as teacher’s pet. She was the one to point out that my beef strips were a bit too thick but did so only when it was too late for me to correct my error. By now my beef was sitting in a marinade of hoi sin, oyster sauce, sugar, garlic oil and white pepper. She grinned, as Chef confirmed her hunch. Alison was her typical quiet self as she set about making sure that she could follow Aunnop’s direction despite the constant distraction of her noisy neighbour Mike whose early declaration that ‘ food should always be fun’ clearly defined his agenda which was, I must say, quickly adhered to by the rest of the posse. Claudio and Genevieve displayed an air of quasi-pro panache as they let their beef marinate and set about quartering their baby corn and ‘ear’ mushrooms, slicing their celery and spring onion at the right angle and tidily placing them on their veggy tray. Chef Aunnop now led us away from the prep area towards the crux of the matter at hand, cooking our beef. My hot wok needed a tablespoon of oil, followed by my marinated beef strips which were very quickly accompanied by my very own sliced veg. It was at this stage that Chef checked on our progress and after a quick glance at my wok and its contents, blurted out ‘good colour’ as his eyes set their gaze on my golden brown strips. As a reveled in what I thought was an encouraging note of approval, he added ‘you make burn’ in his justified broken English which, however, was clearly comprehended by my kind, supportive co-chefs for the day. It transpired that my wok was too hot when I poured in my oil and beef strips, and no amount of chicken stock or tapioca could save my dish at this late stage of incineration. We next plated our own creations in very ornate oriental crockery and proceeded to garnish them with fresh coriander and carrot sculptures and moved on to eagerly taste our own, and that of each of our friends. The ultimate test came when Chef Aunnop sampled all our dishes and I solemnly admit that apart from a grimace as he tried Ban Chiang à la bonell, he very readily acknowledged that my gang posed a serious threat to his position in the restaurant’s kitchen. And yet, if you ask me, my beef was the tastiest of the lot. Carina said so too. Mike was right after all! An hour or so of sheer playful fun in the top-notch kitchen at the Blue Elephant Restaurant under the guidance of Chef Aunnop was a superb way of spending a wintery Saturday morning. A sincere ‘khorb koon’ to Melanie and Aunnop for hosting us.
Alison
Mike
Joséf it’s all about food
35
3 +1 FREE! 4 x 400G NEW CLUSTER PACK
*OFFER VALID UNTIL STOCKS LAST
BEST VALUE BRAND
Tel: 2549 8000
*
cibus promo
*
PATAK’S RECIPES: from our heart to your home
Zesty Salmon Fillets
Chicken
serves 4
serves 4
with a Tandoori Crust
A zingy, zesty and fresh tasting dish, absolutely bursting with spice and flavour. This is a delicious way to serve up salmon, with the oats giving a fantastic crunch.
Preparation time: 5 mins Cooking Time: 20 mins Difficulty: Easy
Ingredients:
• 1½ tbsp Patak’s Tandoori Paste • 50g fresh white breadcrumbs • 25g oats • 2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped • ½ tsp lemon zest • 2 lemons, halved • 1 x 360g salmon fillet (or 4
small fillets)
Method:
1.
2. 3. 4. 5.
Pre-heat the oven to 200°C, 400°F, gas mark 6. In a bowl mix together the Patak’s Tandoori Paste, breadcrumbs, oats, parsley and lemon zest. Place the salmon on a non-stick baking tray and coat with the crust mixture, patting it down slightly. Roast for 20 minutes, covering with foil after the first 10 minutes. Cook the lemons with the salmon for the final 10 minutes to soften them. Remove the salmon from the oven and cut into 4 (if using 1 large fillet). Serve with basmati rice and garnish with the cooked lemon.
with Sweet Mango Chutney
Mango Chicken is a perfect alternative to a mild Korma or a Sweet & Sour - sweet and flavoursome, with the flavour of Indian spice still really coming through. This fab recipe uses fruity Sweet Mango Chutney and Mild Paste, so it has just the right balance of sugar and spice.
Preparation time: 10 mins Cooking Time: 25 mins Difficulty: Easy
Ingredients:
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil • 4 chicken breasts, diced • 1 onion, chopped • 4 tsp Patak’s Mild Curry Paste • 6 tbsp water • 115g canned chopped
tomatoes • 1 tbsp Patak’s Sweet Mango
Chutney • 1 tbsp fresh coriander,
chopped
Method:
1. Heat the oil and fry the chicken until lightly browned. 2. Add the onions and fry for 2 minutes. 3. Add the Patak’s Mild Curry Paste, water and tomatoes, cover and simmer for 20 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through.
4. Stir in the Patak’s Sweet Mango Chutney and serve garnished with the chopped coriander.
WIN WITH PATAKS
Name 2 Pataks products used in the recipes above, and win this fantastic hamper. Send your entries via email to cibus@eslmalta.com by 31st March.
it’s all about food
* 39
*
interview
The Fish King Within a decade between 1980 and 1990, Chef Michael Cauchi worked at La Dolce Vita, with the Corinthia Group in Libya, at Paul’s Punch Bowl in Paceville, with his brother Edwin at Brewmasters, got married in ’86, worked at Anni Venti in Sliema, was a pioneer with pasta all’uovo at Paglia Fieno, cooked at Alexandra Palace, at the Cote d’Azur in Marsascala and took his first steps at going solo at Haywharf.
42 *
it’s all about food
And despite all this, after all these chapters in the story of his life so far, he is still known today as ‘Michael tarRe del Pesce’. We sit at a table at La Castellana Trattoria adjacent to Pavi Supermarket which apart from offering hearty snacks and meals to all those shopping at the supermarket, work in the area or are simply after a bite of Michael’s wholesome food, has now also established itself as the place for a scrumptious spit hog roast or good old ‘hanzirata’. As Michael reminisces over his trail to date, describing himself as a restless nomad always in search of new culinary experiences and growth, he leaves little doubt that his thirteen years at Re Del Pesce marked him in more ways than one. St Thomas Bay in Marsascala could hardly be seen as a central location and yet if your heart was set on a taste of Chef Cauchi’s cuisine, booking was not optional. Anything from business lunches, wine tasting events and romantic dinners to any occasion worth dining for, Re Del Pesce was the place to be. With its extensive wine list and mouthwatering menu, this was definitely one of the top restaurants in Malta in the nineties. Amongst his v.i.p patrons Michael does not hesitate to mention the finest feather in his cap, a certain Michel Roux, one of the most world-renowned French chefs who, in partnership with his brother Albert in 1967, opened Le Gavroche in London which turned out to be the first restaurant in the UK to be awarded three Michelin stars in 1982. Other high profile customers include the Italian singer Al Bano and his ex-president Francesco Cossiga. And of course, how can Michael ever forget serving the world-famous Mr and Mrs Hayes? Mr & Mrs who? Well a couple booked for 20,00hrs under that name turned up punctually,
only for Chef Cauchi to find out that the name was only an alias used by Guy Ritchie and his then wife, Madonna. They soon confirmed their appreciation of the restaurant’s offering by re-booking, again as the Hayes and Michael promptly warned a few of his buddy chefs to be prepared for a surprise should they too get a similar reservation. Between his days in Marsascala and his current tenure at La Castellana, Michael Cauchi had stints at Quadro Restaurant at The Westin as well as 5th Avenue, a full bakery and patisserie concept a few years ago. Thanks to his easy-going and affable approach Michael was also one of the very first TV chefs who quickly established a following on Malta’s leading stations. His casual approach and generosity in the way he explained his methods made him equally informative and entertaining, a trait he often uses as he readily ventures out of his restaurants’ kitchens to exchange a word or two with his customers. Despite carrying the Re Del Pesce reputation with justified pride, Michael has no problem in admitting that his real heartfelt passion is that for Pizza, a skill he first learnt at La Dolce Vita and which remains firmly embedded in his culinary DNA. And with bags of experience behind him, Michael Cauchi can’t hide his eagerness as he dares dwell on his next conquest, that of furthering his studies in the creation of fine chocolate. He struggles with his very tight schedule to further his knowledge with his ultimate aim being that of passing all he knows to eager students as he believes he will find his supreme satisfaction by setting up a series of classes that will give him the opportunity to pass on all that he has learnt. I very much doubt that such classes would fall under a Short Course prospectus.
interview
*
o d o f e t m r o u G l e Simp at its best!
SIGNATURE DISH BY CHEF DE CUISINE, MICHAEL CAUCHI
Penne Mediterranea
serves 4
pasta
Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • •
400g penne rigate 75ml. extra virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic (chopped) 2 tbsp. fresh chopped parsley 1 tbsp. fresh chopped coriander 6 large basil leaves (chiffonade) 1 courgette sliced in juliennes 3 chopped sundried tomatoes 9 cherry tomatoes A good pinch of saffron strands 200ml. White wine 20 medium size Mediterranean prawns peeled and deveined
pizza and so much more!
Method
1. In a salted 5 litre pot of boiling water put in the pasta and cook until al dente.
2. Gently heat the olive oil and fry the chopped garlic, add the saffron, 3.
cherry tomatoes, sundried tomato and parsley just enough to wilt the cherry tomatoes and lift from the pan in a plate, in the same pan add the white wine and reduce by half. Now put in the juliennes of courgettes and the rest of the herbs and cook slightly, toss in the penne mix well and serve
PAVI SUPERMARKET, Manwel Dimech Street, Qormi T: 2147 0530 M: 7949 8540, 7906 1993
it’s all about food
43
*
talking meat
FINE FRESH TOP QUALITY
MEAT TREAT
MAKING EVERY MEAL A
Talking to professional butcher Isaac Mallia Cibus discovered that while the choice of meat is almost endless there should be only one quality that's acceptable... First Class isaac was speaking to Mike Dimbleby pictures Matthew Debono
Isaac Mallia
Dayfresh meats butchery Upper Constitution Street Mosta. Tel: 2744 8007
44 *
it’s all about food
This time of the year is firmly associated with our long family Sunday lunches. I believe that the choice which I have to offer my clients which include plain roasting joints plus multi-recipes of fresh herbed and spiced pork, beef, chicken and lamb all of which I prepare ready to pop straight into the oven. I believe that for a family get together, top quality, fresh roasts make for perfect Sunday meals. My customers just need to tell me how many people will be at their table and I then calculate the weight of the meat required and am happy to give cooking and serving suggestions if asked. This is part of the client-focused philosophy of my shop and the team at Dayfresh. I always welcome my customers' feedback because I truly care about their enjoyment of the meat they eat.
A high proportion of my customers want to enjoy top quality meat dishes and recipes but in an informal, casual way. With that in mind I have created a selection of quick, easy to cook meat meals ready for the grill. These finger foods are prepared fresh each day and include mouthwatering kebabs, finger licking spare-ribs, home made Angus beefburgers, tasty meatballs plus lots more. My regular clients know that they can always find something tasty to serve their guests for a party no matter how big or small and of course I and my team can freshly prepare an exciting collection for your individual needs given appropriate notice. And just to make the whole catering process as trouble-free as possible we deliver free to your door.
talking meat
*
From the many complimentary comments which I have had from customers I know that my ready marinated dishes are sure to impress. The marinades are created from only the very best, freshest ingredients to give the meat sensational flavours which you will be proud to serve to family and friends. I believe that these dishes will own you the reputation of being a talented cook as your kitchen serves up delicious and excitingly flavour-filled chicken, beef, steaks, racks of lamb, rabbit... The list goes on but, trust me, the taste is always excellent. My customers can choose from the marinades on offer but I am always willing to listen if anyone has an exciting marinade to suggest.
This is my favourite category of meat because I sincerely have a passion for meat. When I go to personally select and buy the meat for Dayfresh I am presented with a vast array of choices of similar cuts but I always find myself choosing the top of the range. This is in part due to the fact that I enjoy tasting every bit of meat that I buy but also I want customers to have absolute confidence when asking me for that extra special piece of meat. I am not only a butcher but also a red meat lover, so if you come to me and request a fine Bistecca Fiorentina; Osso 'n' Buco; a fresh veal t-bone; USDA or kobe beef to mention just a few examples, you will know for certain that it is not only the very best that I can provide but also that I have also tasted it cooked in my own kitchen and enjoyed it...I don't give my recommendation lightly.
I appreciate that in today's rushing world when it comes to catering for your family or a gathering of a few friends, then time is of the essence. That is why I created this collection of flavoursome frozen savouries allowing clients to make big time savings while making no compromise on taste, quality or wholesome ingredients. I put together the special tastes and recipes, tested them on myself and my family and then had them created by a specialist frozen food producer. You can select from or put together great quick food from a list which includes : chicken kebabs; southern fried chicken tenderloins; bocconcini di pollo; lamb koftas plus lots more. These are excellent to keep as a standby in the freezer.
The meat dishes here are all ones which most of we Maltese were brought up with and thankfully are now now enjoying the recognition they deserve as healthy, wholesome, nutritiously valuable meals which form an important part of our culinary heritage. Some of them take quite some time to prepare so I believe that I am offering the ideal solution for those who want a true taste of Malta but lack the luxury of time. The speciality dishes which I freshly prepare include bragioli; qarabaghli mimli; xikel tal-bacon; zalzett Malti; majjal taz-zaqq; pulpetti and lots more, all of which your Nanna would recognise. I prepare each of these dishes using only traditional methods, top quality fresh ingredients and definitely no additives or preservatives - just full Maltese flavour for you to savour.
* it’s all about food * 45
Robert de Niro, Jeremy Irons & Chef Nobu
The world's coolest chef
NOBU
considered by many to be the hippest, trendiest, sexiest restauranteur. How did it all begin? Nobuyuki "Nobu" Matsuhisa's biography reads like an incredible fairytale. Owner of the now famous worldwide 'Nobu' restaurant dynasty, Nobu as he is affectionately known, got his first glimpse into the restaurant business at just eight years old. Having lost his father in a car accident the previous year, he was taken to his first ever restaurant meal by his brother. There and then, when boys his age dreamt of becoming doctors or firemen, Nobu claims he found his calling, that to become a sushi chef. At eighteen he started training, or more accurately he worked his way up from dishwashing, in a sushi restaurant, meticulously watching and absorbing his mentor's skill in the preparation of fish, down to the last minutest detail. At the time no formal training for chefs was available, so it took a lot of patience and ambition to learn his craft through hard work.
46 *
In 1972 newly-married and soon after he completed his training, Nobu was offered a business proposal in Peru to open a traditional Japanese restaurant in Lima. After his rigorous training in Japan, what he found in Peru in terms of food and its preparation, while exciting, came as huge shock. The local cuisine, full of strange and exotic flavours and aromas were a world away from what a Japanese sushi chef with his conventional cooking traditions, unchanged for generations would
it’s all about food
find comfortable. Nevertheless, Nobu effortlessly made the transition and adopted local cuisine as a compliment to his own. Moving to Argentina, he found that while fish - his main ingredient in his innovative dishes, was of very good quality there, the Argentinians were not quite ready for sushi. After an unsettling year in Japan, he took the plunge, took out a loan and moved with his young family to Anchorage, Alaska, where the only guarantee was that the fish was unquestionably one of the finest in the world. On Thanksgiving day 1980, tragedy struck, his restaurant was burned to the ground. His Alaskan dream was over. In 1987, after a number of gut wrenching years, Nobu opened a small homely restaurant "Matsuhisa" in Los Angeles. By a rare stroke of good luck, The Los Angeles Times food critic happened to dine there in its very first week and found the whole "Matsuhisa" experience amazing. From then on Nobu's fame started escalating in a big way. He created sushi with a twist, innovative Japanese food which still remained traditional at its core, a new concept which at the time might have appeared contradictory but which quickly garnered a huge following, mostly the rich and famous - very much in abundance in Los Angeles. As fate would have it, Robert De Niro - a native New Yorker through and through came to dinner on one of his visits to L.A. and despite Nobu not recognising him, was impressed by his culinary exotic masterpieces. So much so, that a year after they met he offered Nobu a business proposition regarding an old warehouse he had taken over in Tribeca, Manhattan. The memory of the accident in Alaska and the heartache that ensued were still fresh in Nobu's mind and he reluctantly declined. De Niro continued to dine at Matsuhisa whenever he was in L.A. and after four years approached Nobu again regarding a New York property he had acquired, again in Tribeca. This time he was ready to take the plunge again. It proved to be a lucky strike and the rest as they is history. With more than twenty-five restaurants in various locations all over the globe, Nobu is the hippest haunt of the fashionable, the beautiful, the famous and the notorious. But what does the great man himself think is his secret to such a successful enterprise? "Everything people do has to be done with passion. Cooking, music, architecture, politics - you can't do anything without passion. My mother cooked with heart - she always tried to keep us healthy and strong, this is a mother's passion. You have to put your passion into the food". Simple and practical advice indeed from the man who has elevated the Nobu brand to iconic status.
celebrity chef
Black Cod with Miso
*
serves 2
For this version of one of my most famous signature dishes, meaty black cod is marinated in Nobu-style Saikyo Miso and then simply cooked. Here I cook it with daikon skin and serve it with pickled ginger and Yuzu Miso Sauce
Ingredients
. • 240g black cod • Yuzu Miso Sauce
Check its recipe at the bottom
• Nobu-style Saikyo Miso
Check its recipe at the bottom
• Daikon skin • 1 pickled ginger stem
Method 1
2
3 4
Spread the Nobu-style Saikyo Miso in a tray for marinating. Score the skin of the black cod and put it in the miso to marinate in the refrigerator for 2-3 days. When you want to cook, preheat the oven to 200 ° C. Scrape the miso used to marinate the cod out of the trays. Flatten out the daikon skin, place in the metal tray over the fish and put in the preheated oven for about 10min Remove the tray from the oven. Place on a toban (hot plate) so that the cod continues to cook. When browned and fragrant, transfer to plates. Add the pickled ginger, then dot the plate with the Yuzu Miso Sauce, varying the size of the dots of sauce.
For the Yuzu
• 120g yuzu rind • 2 litres Saikyo Sweet Miso (see recipe below) • 400 ml rice vinegar
Adjust the length of marinating to suit your taste – the longer the deeper the flavour. The reason for flattening out the daikon when put the black cod in the oven is to prevent it from burning at the edges.
Method
1 2 3
Saikyo Sweet Miso
Ingredients • • • •
• •
Miso Sauce
Ingredients
For the
NOBU’S NOTES
100ml Japanese saké 100ml mirin 300g white miso paste (Yamajirushi Yamagiku) 150g granulated sugar
Make the Yuzu Miso Sauce: the yuzu rind to a pulp in a food processor and strain off the juice. Add this, a little at a time, to the Saikyo Sweet Miso and blend well. Adjust the consistency with rice vinegar so that the sauce is just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Method
1 2 3 4 5 6
Put the sake and mirin in a pan and heat. Bring to a boil and allow the alcohol to evaporate off Over a medium heat, add the white miso paste, a little at a time. Blend in with a wooden spatula. When you have added all the white miso paste and the mixture is smooth, turn the heat up to high, and add the sugar in two or three lots. Make sure it does not burn Stir the mixture until the sugar has completely dissolved. Remove from the heat and leave to cool to room temperature.
it’s all about food
47