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JULY 2013

NEW CLOTH MARKET THE COMPLETE TEXTILE MAGAZINE FROM TEXTILE TECHNOLOGISTS Monthly published by :

INDIAN INDUSTRIAL AND MANAGEMENT SERVICES (IIMS) 39/1, Pankaj Society, Bhatha, Paldi, AHMEDABAD-380007. INDIA Mobile : 9824356125 Ph : 40328731 Telefax : 91-79-26632831 (Editor Mobile :987926 0064)

www.newclothmarketonline.com E-mail : iimsad1@gmail.com EDITORIAL BOARD

JULY 2013 (VOL. 27, NO. 7)

CONTENTS

Dr. Anandjiwala R. : Business Area Manager, CSIR, South Africa Bhatia Kailash

: CEO-IMG, Pantaloon Retail (I) Ltd.

Jasuja G.D.

: IIMS, Ahmedabad

Dr. Mittal R.M.

: President (Technology & Strategy) Morarjee Goculdas Spg. & Wvg. Co. Ltd., Mumbai

Dr. Oza K.I.

: Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad

Prof. Patel M.R.

: Principal, Vishwakarma Govt. Engg. College, Ahmedabad

Dr. Paul Roshan

: Head, Research, Function & Care Dept., Hohenstein Institute, Germany

Dr. Rajan V.S.

: Technical Advisor, Filter Fabrics

Sadhu M.C.

: Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad

Dr. Saxena Y.K.

: Consultant, Industrial Environment

Somani Sampat

: G.M.-Fibre Dyeing, Bhilwara Processors Ltd., Bhilwara

Dr. Shroff J.J.

: Advisor (R&D), Arvind Mills Ltd.

Edited and Published by G. D. Jasuja on behalf of the owners Indian Industrial and Management Services, Ahmedabad. Typesetting and Design lay out by :

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"INDIAN INDUSTRIAL & MANAGEMENT SERVICES" 39/1, Pankaj Society, Bhatha, Paldi, AHMEDABAD-380007. INDIA Mobile : 9824356125 Ph : 26632831 Managing Editor and Publisher : G.D. JASUJA

07 EDITORIAL : "NOW, JEANS ARE AVAILABLE ON LEASE" 08 EXECUTIVE PAGES * Kunal Recipe for Antimicrobial & Anti-insect Finish * Superomniphobic Surfaces : A Material that Most Liquids Won't Wet * New Interiors : Sustainabile Aircraft Flooring * Plasma Processing Changing Filtration * Biomedical Textiles with Dyneema Purity® fiber * Biobased Xorel, Fabric Made from Sugarcane * Designing for Future Textiles – Challenges of Hybrid Practices * Colorant Limited Receives DMAI Award * Colourtex Recipe for Polyester Royal Crepe Fabric 35 GARMENT ZONE * Inkjet High-performance Printers for the Textile Industry from Durst, Italy * Laser Cutting Textiles * Textile Decoration : Lotus Transfers International * Profile on Production of Bed Sheets with Pillow Cover Sets * An Introduction to Denim Washing * Sewing Machine : Important Safety Rules & Instructions 58 PROBLEM SOLVING AT VARIOUS STAGES IN THE DYEING OF COTTON TEXTILE MATERIALS

71 INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES * Insight into the U.S. and Global Wool Market * The R Cert : New standard for recycled clothing * Texprocess 2013/Techtextil 2013 at Frankfurt : Profile of 20 Technical Textiles Machinery Makers * International News & Technical Developments 87 NEWS BRIEFS

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NEW CLOTH MARKET, JULY 2013NCM-JULY 2013

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NEW CLOTH MARKET

The Complete Monthly Textile Magazine from Textile Technologists With FASHION FABRIC SAMPLES

Published by

IIMS AHMEDABAD

ADVISORY BOARD Mr. Amin K.D. Dr. Bhat Prabhakar Dr. Deo H.T. Dr. Gandhi R.S. Mr. Garde A.R. Mr. Jain K.C. Mr. Kamdar P.T. Mr. Lekhadia Atul Dr. Patel B.B. Mr. Shah H.K.

: : : : : : : : : :

Ex. Regional Manager, Colourtex Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad Head - Textile Dept., Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology & Science, Indore. Ex Professor (Fibre Chemistry), U.D.C.T., Bombay. Ex-Director, MANTRA, SURAT Ex-Director, ATIRA Processing Manager, Bhilwara Suitings, Bhilwara Technical Consultant, Rajkot Managing Director, Kunal Organics Pvt. Ltd. Professor of Economics, Gandhi Labour Institute, Ahmedabad FinancialAdviser, ANZ Exports (India), Ahmedabad

TECHNICAL COMMITTEE Mr. Ahmed H. Mr. Bhagat A.D. Mr. Dalal C.R. Mr. Gupta P.K. Dr. Jamdagni Rishi Mr. Kapoor Ajay Dr. Mahapatra N.N. Mr. Mehta A.K. Mr. Patel Kiritkumar V. Mr. Ramesh Shah Mr. Sanghvi Lalit Mr. Shukla K.S. Mr. Thukral P.S. Mr. Vasudva K.N. Mr. Vijay Trivedi Mr. Vijay Dhar Prof. (Dr.) Wasif A. I.

: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :

Retd. Officer Incharge, Textile Committee, Govt. of India, Ministry of Textiles, Ahmedabad Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad Technical Consultant, Ahmedabad Director, Anant Polyesters Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad Director, Technological Institute of Textiles (TIT), Bhiwani Technical Manager, Reliance Textile Industries, Ahmedabad Vice-President (Business Development), Colorant Limited, Ahmedabad General Manager (Fabric Processing) Bhilwara Processors Ltd., Bhilwara Vice President (Technical), CTM Textile Mills, Ahmedabad Director, Adman Forex & Services Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad Textile Processing Consultant, Ahmedabad Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad Design & Development Consultant (Thukral Consultex), Ahmedabad Textile Consultant, Modern Terry Towels, Ahmedabad Jyoti Laboratories & Consultancy Services, Ahmedabad Technical Director, Omkar Textile Mills, Ahmedabad Principal, D.K.T.E. Society's Textile & Engg. Institute, Ichalkarnji

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OUR VALUED ADVERTISERS IN THIS ISSUE ARE

Editorial

Aeon Chemicals (p103) Amco Dyeing (p103) Azure Fabrics Pvt. Ltd. (p103) Chemidyes (India) Corporation (104) Colorant Limited (III Cover) Colourtex Pvt. Ltd. (p9) Darshit Trading Company (104) Inter Continent Chemical (India) Ltd. (I Cover) Inter Continental Industries (p5) Jay Ambey Textile Processors(p104) Jay Chemical Industries (IV Cover) Jyoti Laboratories (p100)

Now, Jeans Are Available On Lease Generally, it is the practice to lease durable goods and that also related to industrial or corporate use like vehicles, heavy machinery, office or factory spaces etc. However, in view of increasing cost of living and high prices of durable consumer goods, the practice of payment through installments (with or without interest) is quite established everywhere. We also occasionally hear people making statements - either out of frustration or for fun - that the days are not far off when we will have to buy our clothes also in installment. The possibility of this now seems to be real. In fact, The Netherlands based entrepreneur Burt van Son, who makes ‘Mud Jeans’ has started offering his product on lease basis. The idea behind this scheme is to popularize sustainability as well as affordability. Instead of buying and owning a pair of jeans for life, one can take ‘Mud Jeans’ on lease on a monthly charge (sort of rent), keep them for a year and then send them back for recycling so that you can try something new and be updated with style and fashion without paying the full price of ‘Mud Jeans’. Burt van Son believes that this will also help consumers to reduce unnecessary expenditure on clothes. This way, he hopes to increase the number of his loyal customers and continue to own the jeans after their use. These jeans can then become his raw material for making jeans from the recycled material.

Kunal Organics Pvt. Ltd. (II Cover) Leo Rubber Industries (p103) LS Auxichem Pvt. Ltd. (p11) Mafatlal Food Products Pvt. Ltd. (p103) Meghmani Dyes & Intermediates Ltd. (p6) Oriental Gums & Biopolymers (p101) Rik Chemicals (p101) Saurabh Enterprise (p104) Supertex-Sarex Overseas (p10) The Textile Association (India) (p12) Veeraj Associates (p104)

WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?

Burt van Son’s business model is to take one-time charge of 20 Euros fee from customers which covers shipment and administrative expenses, and then charge 5 euros a month for a year (80 euros in total). A free repair service is offered during the period of the lease contract. At the end of the one year contract, customers are given three options. They can return the jeans back. They can get a new pair, paying a reshipment cost and the lease fee. Or, they can choose to keep the jeans, paying another four months at 5 euro plus a further 20 euro deposit. That goes towards another pair, when they eventually take one. According to Van Son, several hundred people in Amsterdam have signed up under his lease scheme. At present Mud Jeans are available in ladies and men’s models, they are available in three washings. Two denim blazers for women and a pair of white jeans for men are also available under the lease program. Needless to say (looking to the total cost involved in wearing the Mud Jeans), the jeans are made of a high-end organic cotton from Turkey. According to Van Son, this quality is “quite expensive” and hard to source. Van Son claims that at present he is using about 40% recycled, or off-cut, material but eventually he plans to increase it to about 50%, if his leasing scheme succeeds. He says that it’s not possible to go fully recycled, as long, virgin, strands are needed initially. When the jeans come back from the users, they are either washed, repaired, and put back into service, or shredded and sent back to the factory. So, what next? I feel that if our bankers come to know about this then certainly they will tie-up with jeans manufacturers to offer consumers some attractive schemes to pay off the monthly lease fee. Of course, they will ask us to hypothecate our entire wardrobe for this facility. G.D. JASUJA Managing Editor

NCM-JULY 2013 7

EXECUTIVE PAGES

ANTI-MICROBIAL & ANTI-INSECT FINISHES The textile materials are treated with anti-microbial and anti-insect finishing agents to : a) protect the wearers or users of the textile product for aesthetic, hygenie or medical propose against bacteria, dermatophytic fungi yeasts, viruses and other deleterious micro-organisms. b) protect the fiber and the textile structure from bio-deterioration caused by mole, mildew and rot producing fungi, and c) protect the textile from insects and others for fibre preservation. Finishes that are employed for (a) may be classified as either antibacterial and or antimycotic (antifungal). Those in the second end use group (b) are commonly called anti-microbial or rot or mildewproofing finishes, while those in third group (c) are denoted as anti-insect or more specifically mothproofing finishes when used to protect wool fibers. Different types of fibres have different susceptibilities to biological attack. Cellulosic fibres are usually prone to attack by rot and mildew producing fungi while wool is susceptible to insect attack by moths and carpet beetles. Both natural and synthetic fibres are susceptible to contamination and growth of pathogenic and parasitic bacteria, fungi, viruses and microorganisms. The effect of biological agents on textile is important for end use performance in three areas. Textiles will have desirable aesthetic qualities if they can supress odour causing bacteria and other type of odour causing microorganisms. The hygienic and medical effectiveness of textiles is required to prevent the growth of dermatophytic fungi (those that cause skin diseases), pathogenic and potentially lethal microorganisms on fibers and to prevent their infestation by insects. To impart anti-microbial, anti-odour finish the following fabrics can be treated with ANTIMICROBIAL ZE. - Sportswear, Socks, Uniforms; - Sheets, Towels; - Medical Disposable and - Carpet & Upholstery APPLICATION Anti-microbial ZE (1.0%) is applied to textile by exhaustion and pad-dry technique. The effectiveness of treatment to control odour, growth of bacteria and durability during washing is clear from the following two tables. ODOR AND BACTERIAL GROWTH OF TOWEL (AATCC: 100 (1993) Treatment

Odour

Bacterial Count

None very

strong pungent odour

>1010

Softener (1.0%)

very strong pungent odour

26x109

Anti-microbial ZE (1.0%)

No-odour

6x105

Anti-microbial ZE + 1.0% Softener

No-odour

4x104

Critical Bacteria Population between 106 and 109 CFU/ML DURABILITY OF ANTIMICROBIAL ZE TO LAUNDERY WASH After wash (No.)

Bacterial count after 3 hrs.

0 5 10 25

<10 2.0x102 1.8x106 3.1x106

TREATMENT

0.2% Soap

Temperature : 600C

Time : 45 minutes

This page is sponsored by :

Kunal Organics Pvt. Ltd. : Leaders in New Generation Textile Processing Chemicals Address : 34, Madhuvan Towers, Madalpur, Ellis Bridge, Ahmedabad-380 006. Fax : 91-79-26409677 Email : mail@kunal.com NCM-JULY 2013 8

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Superomniphobic Surfaces A Material that Most Liquids Won't Wet Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen lots of hydrophobic materials before, but these water- and liquidrepelling materials often work within constraints. Some liquids bounce or wick away, while others--based on properties like viscosity or surface tension, or whether the substance in questions is organic or inorganic--are not affected by the hydrophobic qualities of the material. But a team of University of Michigan materials science is reporting a breakthrough : a superomniphobic coating that is resistant to pretty much any liquid we know of. A nanoscale coating that's at least 95 percent air repels the broadest range of liquids of any material in its class, causing them to bounce off the treated surface, according to the University of Michigan engineering researchers who developed it. In addition to super stain-resistant clothes, the coating could lead to breathable garments to protect soldiers and scientists from chemicals, and advanced waterproof paints that dramatically reduce drag on ships. Droplets of solutions that would normally damage either your shirt or your skin recoil when they touch the new "superomniphobic surface."

Photo: Joseph Xu, Michigan Engg Communications & Marketing

An uncoated tile of screen is wetted by liquids, but a treated piece remains dry. University of Michigan researchers have developed a "superomniphobic" surface that can repel virtually any liquid.

"Virtually any liquid you throw on it bounces right off without wetting it. For many of the other similar coatings, very low surface tension liquids such as oils, alcohols, organic acids, organic bases and solvents stick to them and they could start to diffuse through and that's not what you want," said Anish Tuteja, assistant professor of materials science and engineering, chemical engineering and macromolecular science and engineering. Tuteja is the corresponding author of a paper on the coating published in the Journal of the American Chemical Society. The paper is titled "Superomniphobic Surfaces for Effective Chemical Shielding." Doctoral student Shuaijun Pan and postdoctoral researcher Arun Kota, both in materials science and engineering, are the first authors of the paper. Also contributing is Joseph Mabry, in the rocket propulsion division of the Air Force Research Laboratory. The work is funded by the Air Force Office of Scientific Research. Tuteja and his colleagues tested more than 100 liquids and found only two that were able to penetrate the coating. They were chlorofluorocarbonsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;chemicals used in refrigerators and air conditioners. In Tuteja's lab, in a demonstration, the surface repelled coffee, soy sauce and vegetable oil, as well as toxic hydrochloric and sulfuric acids that could burn skin. Tuteja says it's also resistant to gasoline and various alcohols. To apply the coating, the researchers use a technique called electrospinning that uses an electric charge to create fine particles of solid from a liquid solution. So far, they've coated small tiles of screen and postage-stamp-sized swaths of fabric. The coating is a mixture of rubbery plastic particles of "polydimethylsil-oxane," or PDMS, and liquid-resisting nanoscale cubes developed by the Air Force that contain carbon, fluorine, silicon and oxygen. The material's chemistry is important, but so is its texture. It hugs the pore structure of whatever surface it's being applied to, and it also creates a finer web within those pores. This structure means that between 95 and 99 percent of the coating is actually air pockets, so any liquid that comes in contact with the coating is barely touching a solid surface. Because the liquid touches mere filaments of the solid surface, as opposed to a greater area, the develNCM-JULY 2013 13

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Superomniphobic surfaces display contact angles >150° and low contact angle hysteresis with essentially all contacting liquids. In this work, we report surfaces that display superomniphobicity with a range of different non-Newtonian liquids, in addition to superomniphobicity with a wide range of Newtonian liquids. Our surfaces possess hierarchical scales of re-entrant texture that significantly reduce the solidâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;liquid contact area. Virtually all liquids including concentrated organic and inorganic acids, bases, and solvents, as well as viscoelastic polymer solutions, can easily roll off and bounce on our surfaces. Consequently, they serve as effective chemical shields against virtually all liquidsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;organic or inorganic, polar or nonpolar, Newtonian or non-Newtonian.

A breakthrough that could have big implications for everything from stain-free clothing to protective surface coatings and chemical resistant protective suits: a s u p e r omniphobic coating that is resistant to pretty much any liquid we know of.

oped coating can dramatically reduce the intermolecular forces that normally draw the two states of matter together. These Van der Waals interaction forces are kept at a minimum. "Normally, when the two materials get close, they imbue a small positive or negative charge on each other, and as soon as the liquid comes in contact with the solid surface it will start to spread," Tuteja said. "We've drastically reduced the interaction between the surface and the droplet." With almost no incentive to spread, the droplets stay intact, interacting only with molecules of themselves, The new coating can repel virtually any liquid and could lead maintaining a spherical shape, and to breathable protective wear for soldiers and scientists, as literally bouncing off the coating. well as stain-proof garments. In this demonstration, it repels One classification of liquid that this coffee. coating repels is the so-called nonNewtonian category, which includes shampoos, custards, blood, paints, clays and printer inks, for example. These are liquids that change their viscosity depending on the forces applied to them. They differ from the Newtonians, such as water and most other liquids, whose viscosity stays the same no matter the force applied. Viscosity is a measure of a liquid's resistance to flow on the application of force, and it's sometimes thought of as its thickness. "No one's ever demonstrated the bouncing of low surface tension non- A high-speed camera captures a droplet resting on the surface of a new super-repellant surface Newtonian liquids," Tuteja said. NCM-JULY 2013 14

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New Interiors : Sustainabile Aircraft Flooring Flooring manufacturers around the globe are responding in more ways than one to keep up with the move by the industry to reduce its environmental footprint. A leading European manufacturer of high quality, durable carpets and carpet tiles for commercial applications, Desso can look back on over 80 years experience for producing quality flooring for all types of applications. Desso is also a leading carpet supplier to the airframe manufacturers and to numerous airlines around the world, including Boeing, Airbus, Embraer and Bombardier, and airlines like China Airlines, KLM, Norwegian Air Shuttle, Vietnam Airlines and TUIfly. In early 2008, Netherlands-based Desso made a natural decision to take an alternative route and go a step beyond mere sustainability in the company’s design and production, by using their ‘Cradle to Cradle’ strategy. “Our innovative agenda positively improves the quality of life and the environment, by encouraging our clients to maximize rather than minimize the footprint we create,” explains Nathan Jansen, Aviation Sales Director at Desso. “Look at it this way: sustainability policies tend to lay down rules to lessen the impact on the environment. However, by taking our inspiration from nature’s continuous cycles, we are able to design and create materials to be used as ‘nutrients’ for biological or industrial systems.” In signing a par tnership agreement with the Hamburgbased Environmental Protection Encouragement Agency (EPEA), Desso has become the first carpet manufacturer in EMEA to adopt the ‘Cradle to Cradle®’ design, which involves creating continuous cycles of both biological and technical ‘nutrients’. This means that products are made from positively defined materials that are easy to disassemble, in order to create new products in both the biological and technical cycles. The products have also been produced using manufacturing processes that rely on renewable energy, and seek to conserve water, and to embrace social responsibility. “Our Cradle to Cradle® strategy goes beyond sustainability and definitely sets us apart from our competition. Whereas our competition tries to minimize the negative impact on our planet, we aim to set a positive Desso can look back on almost 80 years of footprint. Doing it right, rather than ‘less bad,’” Jansen experience for producing quality flooring for all types of applications said. Desso also developed an innovative separation technique called Refinity,® that involves separating the yarn and other fibers from the backing. The separation produces two main material streams that can be recycled. After an additional purification stage, the yarn is returned to the manufacturer for the production of new yarn (some virgin material is needed to compensate for losses and ineffciency process). To top it off, one of Desso’s yarn suppliers, Aquafil, has developed proprietary technology at its regeneration plant to turn recovered post-consumer Polyamide 6 carpet fibres into new Polyamide 6 again and again. Furthermore, Desso also supports the Carpet Take Back Programme™ at Schiphol Airport, in cooperation with KLM Royal Dutch Airlines. NCM-JULY 2013 15

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Lightweight carpet Desso's latest development is the new lightweight carpet; a revolutionary product with a maximum weight reduction of over 40% compared to market standards. The Stratos Fuelmaster is a Wilton woven nylon carpet with a weight of 1100 grams per square meter or 33 oz per square yard. This is 350 to 800 grams less than conventional nylon carpet. The new product is made with sustainable and eco-friendly yarn and offers exceptional value for money without compromising on technical performance. Desso's R&D team was able to develop a yarn – consisting of BCF polyamide 6 and econyl (which is made of 100% recycled content) fibres – that performs well in terms of all critical criteria, such as durability, staining and shrinkage. The new lightweight carpet is available in 36 colors. Self-adhesive carpet For easier handling and installation, Desso has developed self-adhesive carpet. This eliminates the need for tape, enabling not only easier and faster installation, but also faster removal without leaving any residue on the floor. Initially developed for the Boeing 787 Dreamliner, the new self-adhesive carpet made Desso one of the few officially approved suppliers for this type of aircraft. Further development resulted in the option to apply self-adhesive backing to any aviation carpet available at Desso, meaning that it is available for nylon, wool and a blend of 80% wool and 20% nylon, with unlimited design possibilities! “The carpets in KLM’s airplanes are being replaced every five to six months, resulting in 35,000 square meters of carpet waste on a yearly basis. Rather than discharging this to traditional waste incineration, 80% of the waste (which equals 28,000 square meters of carpet) is taken back from Schiphol Airport and used as secondary fuel for the cement industry,” Jansen said. KLM and Desso are planning to expand the Carpet TakeBack Programme™ to Transavia and other companies within the KLM Group. “At the same time we are also continuously taking steps forward in the development of a Cradle to Cradle carpet for airplanes as well. We are progressing toward a 100% Cradle to Cradle® strategy in 2020,” Jansen added. To many people outside the industry, flooring within an aircraft may seem like a relatively simple element of a cabin’s interior. However, behind the colour, fabric and design are important considerations made towards sustainability within the manufacturing process – choices which have the power to affect a company’s social, financial and environmental objectives to a great extent. Light as a feather Another company aware of environmental pressures is Gerflor, which is based in France and has been manufacturing aircraft flooring since 1948. “We are recognized as a specialist and a world leader in resilient flooring solutions. Our company creates, manufactures and markets innovative, design-led and eco-responsible solutions for flooring and complementary interior finishes,” said Mélina Plassart, Aviation Product Manager at Gerflor. Gerflor developed what it says is the world’s lightest non-textile floor covering, called, Batiflex AV135. All Batiflex floor coverings offer superior anti-slip properties, dimensional stability, durability, ease of installation, cleaning and maintenance. “Qualified and selected as a standard baseline for the Boeing 787 program, the Batiflex AV 135 helps provide competitiveness and success to NCM-JULY 2013 16

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Biolink Tape Solutions, a leading supplier of pressure-sensitive adhesive tapes, films and foils, offers aero flooring solutions. Biolink’s proprietary, solvent-free adhesive technology is used to produce a wide variety of high performance adhesive tape solutions, for many industries and critical applications, such as aircraft flooring. The 'relink 2318' Airbus approved and specified carpet tape, continues to build sales among leading airlines and MRO companies around the world. This tape enables quick installation, secure lift-free fixation across all carpet backing types and rapid residue- and damage-free removal, in one piece. These benefits translate into quantifiable cost savings for the customer. Biolink has also introduced several new products currently in qualification, including transfer adhesives for safety labels, NTF tape and a new carpet tape, designed to provide increased adhesion to the floor, whilst still providing clean peel, residue and damage-free removal. our customers – which include Air India, All Nippon Airlines, China Southern, Japan Airlines, Qatar Airways, Hainan Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines and more, “ she said. According to Plassart, all of Gerflor’s products are developed with the intention to optimize the environmental impact at every stage of the product’s life, this is what the company calls, “from cradle to grave.” This process includes assessment of the manufacturing, installation, ongoing maintenance and recycling of the products as well. Gerflor’s manufacturing facilities are ISO 14001 certified and the company only selects raw materials that contain no heavy metals, carcinogenic, mutagenic or reprotoxic components. When it comes to upcoming trends and predictions for the flooring sector within the aviation sector, Plassart told PAX International that wooden or decorative patterns will increase in popularity over time, and will definitely develop within the next few years. “This trend is noticeable at OEMs and in the retrofit market. Some regions of the world nevertheless remain quite conservative compared to others.” Unique tape technology Based in Bavaria, Germany, and now part of the Planatol Group of companies, BIOLINK was started by three chemists who were interested in what adhesive tape technology could compete with, based on a technical and performance level, but which could be far kinder and friendlier to the environment. It was 15 years ago that BIOLINK developed their proprietary 100% acrylic, solvent free, UV cured technology, and to this day it is the only company that produces its entire product range using this specific technology. BIOLINK’s unique technology is based on one fundamental environmental principle: to produce and coat adhesives without chemicals that would harm the environment or employees. “We believe that every business has the responsibility to take care of the environ- BIOLINK developed their proprietary 100% ment in a sustainable manner in every one of its pro- acrylic, solvent free, UV cured technology duction processes. We pursue this important principle, 15 years ago delivering our promise to take care of future generations while at the same time combining it with commercial interests,” said Andrew Jenner, Business Development Manager at BIOLINK. “BIOLINK is happy to be ISO 14001 accredited, but for us, this is only the start. We will not use chemical components in our production that could be harmful for our employees, customers or the environment. Our technology only uses relatively small amounts of energy, no drinking quality water and we do not exhaust any by product into the air or the public water system,” Jenner told PAX International. BIOLINK has customers around the world, primarily in aerospace, automotive, and electronics industries and are highly regarded in the marketplace, for providing creative ideas for fixing, bonding and mounting challenges. “We remain very proud of the development work we did with AIRBUS, to design a new carpet tape (Relink 2318). This was very much a joint project, specifically to solve the problems associated with the more mature products in the market, such as residue upon removal, composite damage, residue removal by solvent and scraper, all of which cost significant time and money.” Relink 2318 remains the only carpet tape product used by Airbus and due to this good working relationship, BIOLINK and Airbus now have several other projects with tape products in progress. (Courtesy : Lauren Brunetti, Pax International) NCM-JULY 2013 17

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Plasma Processing Changing Filtration By Stephen Coulson, Ph.D., Chief Technical Officer, P2i

Plasma processing of filtration media can increase oil and water repellency while maintaining pore size distribution and airflow. Membrane and nonwoven filters are widely used by the industry to separate solids from liquids or gases. Filters can range from the conventional, such as simple dust filters for air intakes, to the critical, such as dialysis filters to prevent kidney failure. In fact, there are more than 50 filters in a single car. The worldwide filter industry is expected to expand 5.6% through 2010 to a value of $45 billion. Filtration media is generally selected based on reasons of cost, ease of processing and performance r equirements. Many different materials can be used, but where filters are intended for repeated use, it is vitally important that integrity and consistency of pore size is retained throughout a product’s lifetime despite the often harsh environments they are exposed to, including cleaning processes. In order to achieve this level of reliability, reusable filtration media have traditionally been made from highly resistant and rigid polymers, such as polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) and polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). However, these materials tend to be fairly costly and would still benefit from complex chemical finishes to add further performance benefits. A more desirable scenario, therefore, would be to use cheaper, easily formed filter media and then modify the surface using an additional process to impart the desired liquid resistance. Thanks to the pioneering work of P2i and its revolutionary liquid repellent nano-coating, it is now possible to enhance alternative, more sustainable filtration media – such as cellulose or nylon – to a level that matches, or exceeds, the performance of traditional, more expensive materials that are more difficult to work with. Indeed, using the widely accepted American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists conventions, P2i’s nano-coating has been shown to create filters with the maximum levels of liquid repellency in both the AATCC 193-2007 water repellency test (resisting 100% isopropyl alcohol) and the AATCC 118-2007 oil repellency test (resisting n-heptane). Using a special pulsed ionized gas (plasma), which is created within a vacuum chamber, the patented P2i technology attaches a nanometerthin polymer layer over the entire surface of a product. This dramatically lowers the product’s surface energy, so that when liquids come into contact with it, they form beads and simply run off. In filtration media, the P2i nanocoating increases oil and water repellency without affecting the material’s bulk properties or pore size distribution and, therefore, airflow. It has also been shown to exhibit improved cake release, no pressure drop or decrease in water entry pressure and a lower replacement frequency, meaning less waste. This allows products to perform at a much higher level in a wide range of application sectors, including biosciences, industrial processing, laboratory testing, food & beverage, electronics and water treatment, as well as opening up new applications altogether. A Problem Solved P2i’s technology is genuinely revolutionary for filtration because it solves so many of the industry’s traditional challenges. For example, until now the choice of filter material has usually been dictated principally by desirable bulk physical properties and ease of processing. In many cases, however, this NCM-JULY 2013 18

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has led to a compromise in material surface properties, which may not be ideal for the intended use, requiring treatment with complex chemical formulations and high curing temperatures. In turn that has led to manufacturing processes that are power hungry, time consuming, and limited to specific materials that will withstand the chemicals and high curing temperatures involved.These processes are expensive and can have significant environmental impacts. P2i’s technology, by contrast, is low-energy, solvent-free and uses only tiny quantities of protective monomer, resulting in minimal waste and no adverse impact on the environment.

P2i’s technology can enhance the performance of a wide Plus, because the nanocoating is applied range of filter media and complete filtration systems. within a vacuum chamber, there is no release to the environment during processing and, since the nano-coating is molecularly bonded to the product, there is no wash off, leachables or extractables. Components to Assemblies In addition to enhancing filtration media, P2i’s technology is also equally effective at treating the often complex structures they are formed into. For example, filter media are generally manufactured in 2D form though rarely used in this format. The sections required are cut into the desired shapes and configured into elements contained in housings. These can be used to form a larger system in order for the filter element or system to perform the desired function. Because P2i’s protective polymer is formed in a gas plasma, it permeates every exposed surface of finished filter structures, meaning that the membrane may be treated while sealed in a permanent housing. It also means that the same chemistry can be imparted to a wider range of media, including surface and depth filter media, woven and nonwoven textiles, membranes and media combinations created to form a filter medium, element or system format. Other associated benefits are increased liquid protection and greater working efficiencies in harsh environments, which in turn translates into benefits such as longer filtration life, higher performance (in terms of reduced pressure drop and higher particle capture efficiency), and pleatability. Cost-Effective Increasing environmental concerns, demands for product cleanliness and the growing need for contaminant reduction in sectors such as electronics, and medical and biological industries means the market for filters is growing rapidly. P2i’s liquid repellent nano-coating technology allows reusable filtration products to perform at a much higher level in their intended application through increased oil and water repellency without affecting airflow, porosity or other crucial indicators, such as cake release. Furthermore, this multi-patented innovation is cost-effective and environmentally friendly for enhancing cheaper filter mediums, such as cellulose or nylon, without compromising performance. Both the wide variety of filter media and the complex structures involved make the P2i enhancement process highly sought after. The company is already working with some of the world’s leading filtration manufacturers and has been providing processed media into the market place for more than six years. About the Author : Stephen Coulson, Ph.D., is the Chief Technical Officer of P2i. Mr. Coulson invented the P2i technology while carrying out his Ph.D. at Durham University on ‘Liquid repellent surfaces’. He was consequently employed by the MoD to set up a plasma capability and further scale-up the patented technology for industrial applications. In 2001, Mr. Coulson moved into project managing the UK Nuclear Biological and Chemical clothing program, but continued to exploit the plasma technology for a range of commercial applications. Mr. Coulson was the founding member of P2i when it was formed in January 2004 and has more than a decade’s experience in advanced material sciences and plasma processing. NCM-JULY 2013 19

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Biomedical Textiles Quality Matters Creating Value with Biomedical Textiles Leads to Innovative Quality Practices By Carola Hansen, Business Manager for Dyneema Purity® fiber of DSM, and Kevin Johnson, Director of Quality Assurance and Regulatory Affairs, Biomedical Structures LLC Over the last few years, much of the innovation in the medical device industry has been fueled by advancements in fiber and other textile technologies specifically designed for use inside the human body. These medical textile breakthroughs have supported a broad array of implantable devices ranging from vascular grafts and surgical mesh to heart valve components and orthopaedic sutures to fabric scaffolds designed to aid in tissue engineering. The fabrics these applications are built upon help deliver more life-like products with the potential to perform better, last longer, and increase comfort in the body - all of which can potentially significantly improve outcomes for patients.

To fully capitalize on new materials for device applications, it’s critical for textile developers and yarn manufacturers to make quality their No. 1 priority.

Medical-grade Materials —The Fabric of the Future These advantages, along with the growing concerns around more traditional implantable materials such as metal, are causing medical device companies (MDCs) to consider textiles for more device projects than ever before. But as demand for medical textiles grows, so too does the concern about the quality of these materials and the controls implemented by the companies that process them. Many traditional materials developers and textile manufacturers, seeing a promising business opportunity, are attempting to expand into medical textile development and processing, often without the necessary medical focus or expertise. While MDCs’ interest in and reliance on these innovative new materials has increased exponentially over the last decade, they nevertheless have only scratched the surface of their potential in device applications. To fully capitalize on them, however, it’s critical for textile developers and yarn manufacturers to make quality their No. 1 priority so that evolution is not hindered or slowed by concerns about these promising materials’ performance. MDCs attempting to manage the unprecedented regulatory and economic challenges of the current environment, and simultaneously trying to meet growing surgeon and patient expectations, have to carefully balance investment in new technologies with intensive risk mitigation. Manufacturing partners that fail to meet the highest quality standards won’t just compromise their own business prospects, but also will hamper the development of one the most exciting industries within the med-tech sector. As partners to the world’s most innovative MDCs, DSM and Biomedical Structures LLC are acutely aware of the challenges associated with med-tech development and are intently focused on the development and promotion of the quality practices for materials that not only support the successful commercialization of groundbreaking textile-based medical devices, but also raise the bar for the entire medical textile industry. That top-tier quality management is so top of mind for MDCs today is hardly surprising. With aging populations increasing product demand, economic volatility tightening margins, and political reforms heightening regulatory oversight, MDCs are under increasing pressure to bring innovative, better-performing products to market quickly and successfully. NCM-JULY 2013 20

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To help MDCs better manage today’s highly complex, high-stakes commercialization process, their partners must be well positioned to help them mitigate risk and minimize cost by engaging in the quality practices that will support MDCs in meeting their design specifications. Beyond the design spec, the device must ultimately pass biocompatibility tests and clinical studies and all the many other complex aspects of gaining regulatory approvals. But the obligation doesn’t end there, of course. To help ensure MDCs maintain their reputations in the industry as quality manufacturers, partners must also adhere to the practices that maintain the quality of the device over the long haul and help MDCs to avoid issues that could lead to product recalls or other adverse events. A Quality Device Requires Quality Ingredients Passing the biocompatibility tests at the end of the process depends primarily on two factors: the manufacturing process and the material chosen at the beginning of the design phase. And the ultimate quality of an implantable medical device utilizing fiber components relies first and foremost on the quality of the fiber it is built upon. One fiber that has been attracting the attention of MDCs for device projects utilizing medical grade fibers is DSM’s Dyneema Purity® fiber, which is a UHMWPE fiber designed for use in the human body. The fiber possesses unique properties that help enable MDC designers to meet the market’s demand for higherperforming implants that are stronger, smaller and last longer. For example : 1. Dyneema Purity® fiber is not only 15 times stronger than cable steel, but is also soft and highly pliable, which can improve comfort and compliance. 2. Dyneema Purity® fiber’s resistance to fatigue and abrasion are advantageous in vascular applications that require thin structures, lowering the risk of complications due to internal or external stressors. 3. Dyneema Purity® fiber’s near-zero stretch enhances fixation in orthopedic applications, such as knee and shoulder arthroscopy and also adds value to non-compliant balloon catheters. Equally important, however, is the fact that Dyneema Purity® fiber is a raw material specifically designed for applications in the human body during surgery or over the longer-term lifespan of an implant. And unlike many textile developers, DSM, which makes Dyneema Purity® fiber and other highly advanced, innovative biomaterials, was formed with a specific focus on materials for medical applications. The Dyneema Purity® fiber has been through extensive biocompatibility and hemocompatiblity testing and has a Master File on record with the FDA, which can give MDCs a critical advantage in navigating an increasingly rigorous regulatory process to bring new products to market. Dyneema Purity® fiber’s heritage as a medical-grade material demonstrates DSM’s commitment to the medical application market through its focus on meeting challenging material requirements. The company invested in clean-production capabilities and quality systems at its Heerlen, NL facility, to create a medical-grade UHMWPE fiber. One of the earliest successful collaborations was with an orthopedic sutures manufacturer that sought to maintain its competitive dominance in the field of rotator cuff repair, where uncompromising strength and performance were critical. Today, DSM’s Dyneema Purity® fiber is the gold standard in many high-strength sutures used in sports medicine applications. DSM stands ready to help innovative device designers improve performance in a variety of existing and emerging application areas, and growing demand has prompted the company to expand its production of Dyneema Purity® fiber to its Greenville, NC, facility. Designed to best-in-class quality and manufacturing specifications and guided by customer input, the facility supports a world-class medical manufacturing capability and is set to begin releasing product in the first quarter of 2012. Like all of DSM’s facilities, the Greenville plant is clearly differentiated from those of other materials players in the market by its focus on providing products of the highest quality that comply with ISO13485:2003 quality standards. Material Master Files of DSM products have been submitted to both the FDA and notified bodies in Europe. While the materials you start with are critically important, of course, the ultimate market acceptance of a finished implantable device utilizing novel biomaterials rests on myriad factors, including how the material is processed. A Best-in-Class Material Requires a Unique Processor As a company that applies sophisticated processing techniques to the fabrics selected by MDCs for their new device projects, Biomedical Structures knows well how dramatically the commercialization prospects can be compromised when MDCs align themselves with those materials fabricators that don’t have the quality systems in place to support what will ultimately become the device history file for that product. NCM-JULY 2013 21

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Biomedical Structures meets all the top-tier quality standards, including clean-room facilities, adherence to cGMP protocols, operation and validation to ISO 13485, high-level documentation, and other requirements necessary for a product’s regulatory submission and approval.Yet the contract manufacturer also has a key differentiator. Unlike other processors that specialize either in R&D or manufacturing, Biomedical Structures offers a comprehensive suite of processing services to MDCs that support everything from the MDC’s design development and proof-of-concept stages all the way to full production. This approach represents a more complex and challenging business model, but Biomedical Structures believes, given the growing complexity of the quality and commercialization landscapes, that MDCs are better served this way. Biomedical Structures’ unique position in the industry also underscores its commitment to the quality practices that ultimately support the needs of its end customers. By participating in all phases across the device development spectrum - from product conception to prototype development to manufacturing Biomedical Structures helps customers eliminate the quality pitfalls that can occur when an MDC transitions from the R&D stage to product manufacturing. If one company supports an MDC through the product design and FDA approval processes and then the MDC enlists another company to manufacture the product, the MDC must bring the manufacturer through the entire learning curve of the design and establish all the appropriate quality controls to ensure the production of a quality end product. Because of the complexity of the process, critical elements can be overlooked during the transition, ultimately causing delays to the product release timeline or worse: quality issues that occur postrelease. Creating Value through Quality DSM, in fact, believes that quality management is not just an exercise in meeting regulatory checklists, but more importantly a core business responsibility that permeates the entire value chain. Manufacturers must gauge their customers’ requirements and plan their quality management approaches accordingly. For DSM, that entails understanding what the MDC wants and knowing how to translate that through the materials it supplies and the critical processes it employs. For DSM, quality management is not just about compliance - although that’s critically important - but also add value for MDCs.

delivery system is also at a peak point. Companies like DSM and Biomedical Structures, with their focus on quality and on supporting MDCs through this highly complex process, are doing their part to fuel the cycle of medical innovation and make Biomedical Structures is similarly focused on design- way for the groundbreaking products and treating the quality approaches that provide long-term ments to address unmet clinical needs and, ultivalue for clients. For all the players in the medical mately, improve patient outcomes. device development cycle, the landscape is significantly more challenging than it’s ever been. But the DSM Dyneema (Website : www.dsm.com) need for innovative new devices that perform better 9th Floor, Tower A, Infinity Towers, DLF Phase II and bring more cost efficiency into the healthcare 122 002 Gurgaon (Haryana) Ph : +91 (124) 417 9900 NCM-JULY 2013 22

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Now Available : Biobased Xorel, Fabric Made from Sugarcane

Bio-Based Xorel : From Sugarcane to Pellets to Fiber and finally Textile it's getting an environmental makeover that renders it even more earth-friendly. Recently, Carnegie launched Biobased Xorel, the world's first biobased high-end interior textile. Seven years of research culminated in a polyethylene yarn that is produced from 60 to 85 percent bio content, namely, sugar cane (rather than fossil fuels). Xorel is a high-performance textile typically used as wallcovering, paneling or upholstery It's manufactured by Carnegie, an early proponent of environmentally-friendly, PVC-free fabrics. Since its launch in the '80s, Xorel has been a popular choice for its safety, durability and for how easy it is to clean. And now NCM-JULY 2013 23

Sugar cane has much lower carbon emission rates compared with most other biobased materials, like corn-

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based materials. In fact, for each ton of sugar cane used to produce this new form of Xorel 2.5 tons of carbon is captured and sequestered. Additionally, the product can be returned to Carnegie when it is no longer needed and is recycled or put through a waste-toenergy conversion. The Story of Carnegie Textiles In the world of commercial interior design, it is difficult for anyone to create an original product, and even more difficult to improve on an original. Carnegie Textiles launched Xorel in 1981. It was the first textile that addressed long-term issues of maintenance and safety in commercial interiors; in many ways, it defined the category of high performance textiles and set the benchmark for customer expectations in demanding environments. Today, thirty-two years after its initial launch, Xorel continues to be Carnegie’s top selling product. Carnegie’s founder Robert Goldman spent seven years perfecting Xorel before it was first introduced to the world of commercial interiors; his son, Carnegie president Cliff Goldman, just completed his own seven-year process of research to make Xorel the first bio-based high performance textile in the world. “The only bio-based fibers out there today for commercial use are natural products like wool, cotton and linen,” said Cliff Goldman. “I would not consider any of them to have high-performance characteristics.” Woven from 100% solution-dyed polyethylene yarns, Xorel has always been free of chlorine, plasticizers, heavy metals, toxic dyes and ozone-depleting chemicals. “Polyethylene is basically hydrogen, carbon, color and some UV stabilizers; that means it is inherently flame-retardant, stain-resistant, antimicrobial, durable, non-absorbent and easily cleaned.” Wallcovering from Carnegie, USA : Xorel’s only downside was an environmental one; the material to produce it originally came from natural gas, a nonrenewable resource. “Oil and natural gas are similar in that, one day our world will run dry of it,” said Mr.

Carnegie remains the only textile/wallcovering company in this industry to have a PVC (vinyl) free policy. It's been that way since 1990. We've done our research and it just makes good sense.

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Goldman. “What we wanted to do was come up with a way to make the same Xorel polymer from plantbased raw materials.” Since the new bio-based Xorel continues to be made from polyethylene, it is identical to the petroleum-based Xorel on a molecular level, but the resource for creating the new Xorel is the sugarcane plant. “The sugarcane plant has a lot of really great attributes to it,” said Mr. Goldman, “including the fact that it has a much higher yield than corn per acre. For every unit of sugarcane-based material, it makes nine and a half units of renewable energy, as opposed to corn, which results in 1.4 units of energy. In South America, countries like Brazil run on sugarcane.” Unlike many materials made from corn, sugarcane does not require genetic modification. “The other big concern with most plant-based manufacturing products is if it takes away from a food source for people. Growing sugar only takes 1% of arable land in Brazil,” he said. Plenty of room left over for the rainforest.

Cliff & Robert Goldman

Showing a pile of white pellets derived from the sugarcane plant, Mr. Goldman noted, “this is what the base material looks like before color is added. We generate electricity from the sugarcane in the production plant, then add color and produce the yarn, which is all powered by biogenic energy.” As before, Xorel is produced in Europe. “Everything happens at exactly the same production facility as before,” said Mr. Goldman, “it is just that the raw material resource is different.” Looking even further ahead to the next plant-based source for Xorel, “it might algae,” added Mr. Goldman. “All of this is less about the raw material than it is about reducing the impact on the environment to create Xorel in the first place. The growth of the sugarcane plant naturally captures carbon dioxide. To produce a ton of sugarcane, you’re actually capturing two and a half tons of carbon dioxide.” Typically when companies introduce an innovation, sustainable or other-wise, questions about available quantities of the raw material and differences in price soon get asked by designers and resource librarians. “Rest assured, the new bio-based Xorel has the same price and same performance,” said Mr. Goldman. ”We took our three most popular patterns, Strie, Nexus, and Dash, and re-colored them. This was only because they were due for re-coloring anyway,” he said. “Now, we are producing them only as biobased product.” Three new patterns, embroider- Bio-Based Xorel Pattern Veneer, shown as a ies Abacus and Topiary, and an embossed design Wallcovering called Veneer, are also part of the bio-based Xorel has titled the launch of the bio-based Xorel In Our launch. Nature, which refers not only about the core comGoing from a measurable negative environmental petencies of the company, but it’s inherent DNA. impact to a positive one is not just the cost of doing “Our clients usually want to know the why about business these days; priorities such as this speak any company,” said Mr. Goldman. “Why your comto the ethical imperatives of a company. Carnegie pany does what it does. There are a lot of good prodNCM-JULY 2013 25

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Inspired by 3D printing Abacus, a new Xorel pattern from Carnegie

Bio-based Xorel pattern Topiary from Carnegie

ucts out there. I think it is becoming less and less about what companies make, and more about why. We want to align ourselves with designers who think the way we think and they want to align themselves with companies that think along similar lines. This is very much about a way to run a business and think about the future.” Carnegie’s culture as a company is focused on continuous improvement. “The nature of our company is not just about having something good and standing still,” said Mr. Goldman. Textile designer Heather Bush, Vice president of Creative at Carnegie, said, “When we look back on everything, where Xorel was and how it was the vision of Cliff’s father; in this case, Cliff had a vision for Xorel, and we pushed it forward. When we got the Cradle to Cradle Silver certification several years ago, that was our roadmap for the next step. The previous Xorel had a Cradle to Cradle Silver listing; the new bio-based Xorel is now certified as Cradle to Cradle Gold. that means that if design firms seeking LEED certification for their projects use Cradle to Cradle Gold certified products in 2.5% of the total value of all building materials, they gain one LEED Innovation In Design Credit. “The new Xorel does not interrupt our creative process,” said Ms. Bush. “It just makes us feel a whole lot better about it. Moving forward, we will start to transfer the product line to 100% bio-based.You could look at the two, bio-based and regular Xorel; no one can see any difference.”

Heather Bush, VP of Creative at Carnegie cus and Topiary. “The concept of 3D printing is so fascinating to us,” she said; “we altered our embroidery process with these two patterns to bring out a third dimension. This is a new technique where we take the tape yarn of Xorel and stitch it down; it’s a totally different effect. The new patterns play with several different fiber deniers, which is the shape and thickness of the Xorel yarn. The main criteria of designing with Xorel are that the entire content of the textile has to be 100% Xorel. That is a brand promise that is about performance. If we added polyester to the face of the textile, it is not going to be as cleanable and would not be Xorel.”

Showing a range of textiles neatly displayed in her For Mr. Goldman and his design team, the goal has studio, she gives examples of the new patterns Aba- always been to build the Xorel brand. “The Corvette NCM-JULY 2013 26

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Topiary Wallcovering

Embroidered Bio-based Xorel came out in 1957, and it was a great design,” he said. “Chevy never changed the name of the car; they just kept on making the car better and more updated. I think it is the same for us. We are not in a race; we are looking for steady growth of our customers getting to know Xorel as a bio-based product.” Bio-Based Xorel line of wall coverings were officially launched by Carnegie during the NeoCon - North America's largest design exposition and conference for commercial interiors - held in Chicago from June 10-12, 2013. Bio Xorel is the world’s first high-performance interior textile made with a majority of plant-based content (60 to 85 percent bio content), depending on pattern, though the U.S. government standard requires only 25 percent bio content for a product to carry the bio-based label. In addition to gold level Cradle-to-Cradle certification has also achieved the SCS Indoor Advantage Gold rating and contributes toward LEED-CI (commercial interiors) categories: rapidly renewable content, indoor air quality, material transparency and material optimization. This means that those seeking LEED certification, can score points in the renewable materials and indoor air quality categories.

Abacus Embroider Wallcovering end-user to clean the product aggressively and with a wide range of cleaners including diluted bleach. At the end of the product’s useful life it may be returned to Carnegie for recycling or waste to energy conversion.

Carnegie (HQ) Bio Xorel is available in six designs in 91 colorways 110 North Centre Avenue Rockville Centre, NY 11570 and can be applied for wallcovering, panel or uphol- Tel. : 800.727.6770 Fax : 516.678.6848 stery use. Proprietary X-Protect backing enables the Email : mail@carnegiefabrics.com NCM-JULY 2013 27

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Designing for Future Textiles – Challenges of Hybrid Practices Zane Berzina Goldsmiths College, University of London The potential of the future for both science and design lies in a multidisciplinary approach. Disciplines are merging, boundaries are melting and “many […] technologies are not significant when looked at in isolation, but become of critical importance when coupled with other technologies.” Introduction This paper offers a condensed case study of a cross-disciplinary practice led Ph.D. research “Skin Stories : Charting and Mapping the Skin” which dealt with issues across the fields of design, art, textiles technology, electronics, biology, material science and psychology in an attempt to bridge the gap between aesthetics and technology. The artistic investigation examines skin as a naturally intelligent material on the premise that it can serve both as model and metaphor for creating innovative textile membranes, which look, behave or feel like a skin. Attention is focussed on the living skin “technology”, meaning its complex working mechanisms, and how these have been translated into a textiles vocabulary following the principles of biomimetic design. The paper examines a range of smart textile concepts for both the body and its various environments developed during this research project at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London (2000-2004). The paper also addresses the current textile practice and research of the author which deals with issues surrounding human sensory perceptions (touch, smell, vision, hearing) and how our sensory experiences could be enhanced using smart design concepts. It has been proven that the environment has a huge impact on peoples’ behaviour, relationships, their physical and psychological wellbeing. The author is particularly interested in the emerging scientific notion - called “sensism” - of how “subtle multisensory cues drive our perceptions, behaviour, decisions and performance.” For example, visual images and olfactory messages influence peoples’ minds in subliminal, emotional, subconscious ways and this can be successfully used in new polysensual and therapeutic design concepts that support peoples‘ wellbeing and interactions. Addressing this context the practice led inquiry reflects on current developments within materials research and technologies by considering their possible applications within design and arts to create new sensory environments that respond to peoples‘ needs and improve the quality of our lives. Identification is made of areas of applications where responsive, active and interactive textiles systems, adapted from the biological skin workings, could prove to be of some value. Albeit the preoccupation with the technological and biomedical aspects the author also was constantly interested in the poetic and social context of the epidermis, as from a designer‘s point of view it was important to capture the multi-layered nature of the skin. On this project the author collaborated closely with the Institute for Biology and Zoology, Freie Universität Berlin, Germany, with TITV – Textile Research Institute Thuringia-Vogtland in Germany, the Institute of Textile Technology and Process Engineering Denkendorf in Germany and the Fraunhofer Institute for Applied Polymer Research in Berlin. Re-working the Skin through the Medium of Textiles The research, discussed in this paper, explores body and skin tissue in terms of biological chain reactions and mechanisms aiming to translate the unique skin "technology" into the textiles vocabulary. The intent was to examine the “living fabric” from a textile designer‘s perspective, employing biomimetic design methods, in order to use it as a model and metaphor for the development of new textile systems. Being our largest organ, skin also represents personal and social identity. In fact, this sheltering envelope may be viewed as the fabric of the body (figs. 1a, 1b, 1c). The skin, being an interface between the body and its environment, is a major site for intercommunication between the two. “Here […] a number of different body systems come together in synergy to fulfil general overall functions beyond their individual specialized functions”. This complex “technology”, incorporated into the sensuous fabric of skin provides us with an impressive example of an intelligent approach to problem solving by working interdisciplinarily. At various levels, there are many lessons we can learn from the skin in order to engineer and design new surfaces and products. NCM-JULY 2013 28

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Figs:1a, 1b, 1c. “Skin Topography.” Micrographs of magnified skin surfaces. Photo © Zane Berzina The principal objective of the research was to develop and test functional, active and interactive textiles that enable individuals to experience a responsive and polysensual environment addressing the biological senses e.g. vision, touch, smell. It was anticipated that the new textile systems should respond to peoples’ needs, enable them to enhance their sense of wellbeing and offer them the possibility of interacting with their surroundings. Selected properties of the skin were translated into a textiles vocabulary by identifying a range of textilerelated technologies. In order to do this, the functions of human skin tissue were examined from the perspective of a textile designer to develop different responsive and active concepts. These included : •

exploration of the potential of textiles as latent heating systems to control room temperature (the analogy of skin being a thermo-regulator);

examination of the thermochromic properties of textiles as indicators of fluctuating conditions in the interior (the analogy used is that of human skin reactions to physical and psychological stimuli - skin as sensor and biochemical mechanism);

investigation of the interactive and decorative potential of thermochromic and touch-sensitive surfaces to exploit transient skin images and patterns (the analogy used is skin as a sensor). and

exploration of the olfactory and filtering potential of textiles as deodorising, antimicrobial and curative surfaces (analogy - skin as immunological surveillance and biochemical mechanism).

Subsequently the entire research project was divided into three main themes : •

Memory & Identity (where skin was looked at as a complex genetic and social display)

Protection & Comfort (where skin was examined as barrier and exchange mechanism for comfort)

Sensorium & Communicator (where skin was investigated as responsive, interactive and multi-functional membrane).

Our skin‘s naturally interactive and multi-functional “technology” has informed this biomimetic design research by suggesting means by which the initial biological information might best be interpreted. For example, sensory information from the outer world gathered by the skin is sent to the brain in the form of electric impulses. This biological mechanism suggested the use of electric current as the main stimulus for certain processes to take place and to corroborate the interactivity of the new textile membranes. Therefore electronic systems were incorporated in some of the work as discussed later. Sensory Textile Wall “Touch Me Wallpaper” (figs. 2a, 2b) is an interactive sensory-appeal wall-covering prototype where touch triggers visual responses. The wallpaper responds to human heat by changing colour - people can interact with it by leaving their temporary body prints on the surface treated with thermochromic inks. The NCM-JULY 2013 29

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Figs : 2a, 2b. “Touch Me Wallpaper” at the exhibition “Touch Me,” Victoria & Albert Museum, London, 2005. Visitors interacting with the responsive textile wall. Photo © Zane Berzina. polysensual wallpaper concept carries the idea of skin as a sensor and receptor, display and communicator. Some versions of the “Touch Me Wallpaper” release various aromatherapeutic fragrances, when triggered by hand. In this case the olfactory and filtering potential of textiles as deodorising, anti-microbial and curative systems is explored referring to skin as an immunological surveillance and biochemical mechanism. Microencapsulation technology, used in this work, permits the incorporation of aromatic oils into textile substrates to enhance the environment by releasing scent. The olfaction can, to various degrees, help people to reduce stress, enhance relationships and help heal their bodies and minds. The concept of integrating scents in buildings is not new - for centuries Arabs were using fragrances as a component in the mortar for certain mosques. The response from the audience to this work was particularly positive. People liked to interact with the textile wall by experiencing the scent, leaving their handprints and observing how they slowly disappear from the surface like shadows. The idea of touching things that we usually do not touch and having unexpected sensory experiences was found to be interesting and capable of adding an extra value to our everyday surroundings. The concept of an interactive sensory-appeal wall covering could be used in many ways. For example, for health care applications and as a learning environment for children. Apart from the purposes of aromatheraphy, the integration of scented messages into environments and objects would be beneficial to blind people as their olfactory sense can be activated more to get oriented in space. An opposite concept of smell absorbing textile technologies for environments could also be used by incorporating smell/malodour absorbents or technologies that absorb certain harmful substances (eg nicotine) in our environments. In the author‘s opinion, which is based on peoples’ response to the work, ‘touch sensitive‘ walls and olfactory textiles have a potential for future design applications all of which are becoming increasingly senses orientated. Future and research conscious companies, including Outlast Technologies, are seeing a large market segment for products that offer haptic and other sensory experiences. Drawings with Electricity During the research project the author became interested in the idea of “drawing“ with electricity. Employing the properties of an electric current, semi-conductive treads that react to electric current by heating and thermochromatic inks which change colour in response to heat, temporary linear patterns were created. This refers to the skin analogy and the nervous system at work - the neurons sending information collected from the outside world to the brain through electric impulses. These experiments resulted in a prototype called “Sensory Screen” (figs. 3a, 3b) where the colour change process is controlled by opening and closing the circuit using a remote control. When the electric circuit is open, the space divider reveals latent linear patterns in reaction to the heat created by the electric current flow through the conductive thread integrated into the base material. A similar principle is employed for the creation of the artwork “System I” (figs. 4a, 4b) where instead of conductive threads NCM-JULY 2013 30

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electrically heated conductive base fabrics are used. There is a huge potential for extending this idea into more complex patterns, drawings, maps or intelligent signage that could in the future be invisibly and discreetly incorporated into walls, carpets or clothing and activated when needed. Currently analogue systems only are used to ‘animate’ the cloths but in order to achieve more sophistiFigs : 3a, 3b. “Sensory Screen,” 2003. Before and after the colour change cated displays digital syseffect takes place. Photo © Zane Berzina tems could be used. The integration of digital technologies would establish the ‘skin – brain’ analogy where the computer is the ‘brain’ and cloth is the ‘skin’ – the interface between the viewer and the computer. Another work is from a Figs : 4a, 4b. “System I,” 2006. Photo © Raimo Lielbriedis series called “Skin Architecture” (fig. 5) and it is based around the inspirations derived from magnified skin structures, its constructions and technology. The work refers to the interactive mechanisms of our body, including our sensory and vascular systems, sweat glands, hair and skin cells that all work together in harmony to form or support the functions, processes and the physicality of the skin tissue. For the production of work silicone was used as a sculptural material, finding that its flesh-like quality works as a natural allusion to the body and skin. This has been combined with a conductive stainless steal filament yarn, embedded into silicone rubber coloured with thermochromic inks that performs a slow and meditative colour play when the voltage is charged through Fig. 5 : “Skin Architecture,” 2004. the entire networked structure creating electric heat. Some pieces from these series also release aroma when triggered by an electric current. Due to the incorporated colour change technology heat is drawing sophisticated patterns on the fleshy 3D structures. The slow, radiant colour change plays offer a calming experience that is almost a meditative one when the viewer is taking the time to engage in the process. The sculpturaly elaborated pieces of the “Skin Architecture” aim to offer unusual sensory experiences that involve sight, smell and touch. They can be used as precious objects or decorative tiles applied in a series or as one-off pieces to enhance peoples sensory environments by releasing aromatherapeutic fragrances, performing soothing colourplays and intimately responding to touch helping to reduce stress. Such multi-sensorial systems would prove useful for hospitals, health resorts and physicians waiting rooms and could offer a unique experience, which enhances people‘s emotional and physical wellbeing in calming and therapeutic ways, and also provide a personalised environment. Conclusion Through the research and practical investigations from a designer‘s point of view the author has discovered that the properties and mechanisms, incorporated in human skin, can contribute to and be a catalyst for the development of new approaches to smart textile design systems. As a result responsive, active and interactive textile design solutions have been developed at a prototype stage that embody selected skin-like aspects such as its aesthetic, sensory, somatic and tactile qualities for possible NCM-JULY 2013 31

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Fig. 6 : Flexible textile switch, developed in collaboration with TITV, Germany, 2005. Photo © Zane Berzina

Fig. 7 : Testing of optimised conductive yarns in a non-finished colourchange textile system. Collaboration with TITV, Germany. 2006.

Fig. 8 : Application of conductive yarns using CAD stitching processes. Collaboration with TITV, Germany, 2006.

application in body-related concepts and living environments. These combine technologies currently commercially available with the author‘s expertise as a textiles designer. By enhancing our physical and psychological wellbeing and improving our sensory environments, these textiles could encourage people to explore their senses in novel ways. However, still a lot of further research and testing is needed in order to bring these ideas into real living environments. All this work would not have been possible without the collaborative assistance from the technologists and scientists I was working together with on this project. By establishing a common language we managed together to achieve interesting outcomes. The “Sensory Screen” concept discussed in this paper is now being developed further by the author in close collaboration with TITV – Textile Research Institute ThuringiaVogtland in Germany. Their scientific and technical assistance as well as access to specialised industrial equipment is crucial for the realisation of the prototypes into real products. To date a flexible user-friendly textile switch (fig. 6) has been developed to replace the hard remote control which was used previously to switch on or off the electronic textile systems. A series of tests have been conducted in order to optimise the specialised semi-conNCM-JULY 2013 32

Figs 9a, 9b, 9c : Electronic textile prototype with integrated colour change modules using computer aided stitching. Each module can be addressed and activated individually. Images are showing various stages of colour change effects. (TITV, 2006)

ductive yarns for specific end applications (fig. 7). Intense work has been done to industrialise the conductive yarn application techniques on various textile substrates using computer aided stitching machines (fig. 8). The initially very fragile electronic textile systems have now been improved and much more sophisticated active textile displays have been made which can be reproduced industrially (figs. 9a, 9b, 9c). All this allows the author to continue the investigations on a larger scale, offering a wider range of design possibilities in terms of the complexity and variety of latent patterns, colour combinations and rhythms of colour plays. (Cour tesy : The Textile Society of America)

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Colorant Limited Receives DMAI Award Colorant Limited, a leading Reactive dyes manufacturer and exporter based in Ahmedabad, received the Award for the outstanding performance in Domestic Market by an SME for the year 2012-13 at a function organised by the Dyestuff Manufacturers' Association Of India. The event was held on 22nd June, 2013 at Hotel Sea Princess, Mumbai.

Mr Sanjay Chavda, Sales Manager receiving the award from Chief Guest Dr Anil Kakodkar, Nuclear Scientist and Ex –Chairman Atomic Energy Commission. Colorant is an ISO 9001:2008 & ISO 14001:2004 certified Company and one of the leading Manufacturers and Exporters of Dyes in India. Most of the Colorant products are “GOTS” Certified and Pre-registered with “REACH”. The Company also enjoys the status of Government recognised “Export House”. Colorant has become the first Indian Company to offer its clients - in India and overseas - a wide range of Fluorine based Reactive dyes in the name of COLRON "CN" series. Colorant recently concluded an MoU with the Color Root of China – the biggest manufacturer of Fluorine based Reactive dyes in the world. Under the agreement, Colorant is having an exclusive marketing rights for these dyes in India enabling the company to offer most modern and environmentally green chemistry to it’s customers for the first time in India thereby revolutionizing the dyeing industry due to the energy saving and emission reduction achieved by Fluorine based Reactive dyes. Colron High Performance Reactive dyes like SD series, GLX series, CN series and SF series are already being used by nearly 650 customers (including Corporate Houses) in India, and are also well accepted in the Export market for their quality, cost-effectiveness and timely supply. The Dyestuffs Manufacturers' Association of India (DMAI), established in 1950, is the Apex Body representing Dyestuffs, Pigments, Optical Brighteners and Dye Intermediates manufacturers from all over the country covering all sectors of the Colorants Industry - small scale units to multinationals; a fact well recognized by the Government authorities. DMAI regularly takes up various issues of concern to the Colorants industry with the respective Government Agencies. Department of Chemicals and Petrochemicals, Ministry of Chemicals and Fertilizers, Government of India seeks DMAI opinion before framing policies concerning Colorants Industry. NCM-JULY 2013 33

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Processing & Finishing of Polyester Royal Crepe Fabric Construction of the fabric The lot size for processing Dyeing machine/liquor volume

Warp :- 50/36 Bright Size Beam / Weft :- 150/36 Crepe Reed 80-84 / Pick 60- 62 2000 mtrs. - (10 kgs. / 100 mtr.) U - Jet Dyeing machine / 600 ltr.capacity

The Process sequence of Polyester Royal Crepe fabric from grey to the finished stage Desizing / Scouring

Sodium Hydro Sulphite Caustic Soda Levocol TFL Levocol NID Temperature

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500 gms. 500 gms. 1500 gms. 500 gms. 950C./60 mins.

Weight Reduction

Sodium Hydro Sulphite Caustic Soda Levocol SCR Temperature

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500 gms. 1000 to 5000 gms. 1500 gms. 1300C./30 mins.

Hot Wash &n Neutralisation

Acetic Acid Oxalic Acid Temperature

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1000 gms. 500 gms. 80C.-900C./15 mins.

Optical Whitening Or Dyeing White R (pH-4, MLR-1:5) Coralene Dyes Levocol DFT Levocol PB Levocol PB Levocol WS Temperature Levocol DFT Temperature

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X% OWF X% 1-2 gpl. 1.0 gpl 0.5 gpl. 1.0 gpl 1300C./30 mins. 0.25 gpl 1300C./30 mins.

Batching for Printing

Pad in Levocol PB Heat set @

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0.3% - 0.5% and 1800C / 30 sec.

Printing Recipe

Coralene Dyes Levocol PB Levocol KBI Levocol HTS Soft Water Printex CT-50

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X% 1.0 % 0.5 % . 0.75 % Y% (8% Stock Paste)

Print - Dry - High Temp. Steaming at 1700C./8 mins Cold Wash - R. C. - Cold Rinse - Neutralization - Dry Finishing at 1750C

Silicon Softener (12%-14%) Soln Epoxy base/Carboxyl base Softener (43% - 45%) Shrinkage - Approx Final width -

2% - 3% 0.25% 12%-14% 107-112cm.

This process may be modified to suit customer requirement of fabric body and feel This information is provided in good faith, to the best of our knowledge and without liabilities. This page is sponsored by : Colourtex Pvt. Ltd.

Email : pradeep.mistry@colourtex.co.in

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Inkjet High-performance Printers for the Textile Industry from Durst, Italy

The textile industry is changing. In the present times of short-lived fashion trends, decreasing budgets, shrinking order volumes and strict ecological guidelines, the market calls for new and flexible production methods. With the inkjet technology, Durst Phototechnik AG, Italy provides a solution to all textile finishers for today´s shifting demands and changing customer requirements. The digital high-performance printers present a real alternative to the traditional screen printing process. They facilitate an economically efficient and ecologically sound production of anything between one and thousands of running meters, on-demand, in high printing quality and reproducable anytime. Users benefit from the reduced utilization of resources and the unlimited design- and color options of the inkjet technology.

Kappa 180 The Kappa 180 - from Durst Phototechnik AG, Italy - is a genuine alternative to flat bed screen printing. It has a printing speed of up to 580 sqm/hour (300 running meters) and an outstanding printing quality (Single Pass: 1000 x 600 dpi; 2 Pass: 1000 x 1200 dpi). It is the new flagship of the textile printing sector. The Kappa 180 was developed on the basis of Durst‘s proprietary Quadro printhead technology at the Durst Development Center in Kufstein, Austria, to meet the specific requirements of the textile industry with "QuadroZ". Specialized high-grade inks (Kappa Inks) for textile printing were developed in the Durst Research Center in Lienz, Austria, to print on different textile fibers with absolutely environmentally friendly, water-based dispersion-, reactive- and acid inks using the QuadroZ Arrays. The Kappa 180 is an economical and ecological innovation, since it reduces water and power consumption compared with conventional methods while at the same time offering total flexibility to customers. There are no limits with the Kappa 180 as far as design and colors are concerned. Every changeover is direct and immediate – setup times and screen-making are now a thing of the past. NCM-JULY 2013 35

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Printing System The Kappa 180 has fully automatic feeding-in and guiding facilities for textiles with a maximum printing width of 195 cm and a printing blanket with an integrated washing system. The drying unit is a hot air dryer, optionally powered by gas, steam or electricity. The Durst Quadro Array has been modified for textile printing and is now capable of printing on textiles with a specially hardened, fray-resistant nozzle plate with a drop size of 7/14/21 picoliters. 6,144 jets per color produce a resolution of up to 1680 dpi, while a single automatic nozzle cleaning system ensures uninterrupted operation. Specifications : Workflow Features : 1. Durst Advanced Remote Diagnostics (DARD™) – Monitors all relevant parameters e.g. printheads, humidity, temperature, tension and others to avoid unscheduled downtime and maintenance work. 2. Durst Advanced Stroke Control (DASC™)

Durst ColorBlend RIP : Includes the Wasatch SoftRIP solution to provide easy-to-use color controls, plug-andplay imaging configurations, and the quick setup. The software achieves an excellent color reproduction with perfectly smooth gradients. Especially for Textile Printing the software is equipped with tools that make the transition to digital printing seamless. In addition, the integrated ColorBlend application allows to assign colors to your designs (creating “colorways”). Durst Kappa Caldera GrandTEx+ : Based on the successful GrandRIP+ package from Caldera, this RIP is the ultimate production workflow solution for large-scale and superwide textile printing applications. GrandTEX+ is built for speed, reliability and flexibility.

3. Durst Textile RIP and open interface for textile specific software

Key features :

Productivity :

1. Powerful workflow software.

1. High-Speed Mode: Printing speed of up to 580 sqm/hr with an inking rate of 6.5 g/sqm and a resolution of 1000x600 dpi.

2. Large format capabilities.

2. High-Quality Mode: Printing speed of up to 290 sqm/hour with an inking rate of up to 13g/sqm and a resolution of 1000x1200dpi.

4. Easy Color book generation.

Colors : 8 colors in CMYK, orange, red, blue and gray, with no modulations or density fluctuations. The key role here is played by the ink delivery system with an osmosis filtering system, which eliminates tiny gas bubbles from the ink and ensures that printing is constant and without failure.

6. Scalable for multiple printer configurations.

Printing Technology : Piezo Inkjet Multipass Inks : Kappa Inks were especially developed for textile printing and can be used with absolutely environmentally friendly, water-based dispersion-, reactive- and acid inks on different textile fibers. RIP-Software : Durst provides different RIP software for the Kappa textile printer : NCM-JULY 2013 36

3. Patern repetition with advanced ‘step&repeat’. 5. Intuitive Graphic User Interface.

7. Spot colour support including 8. Pantone Home & Textile library and many others. Contact : Durst Phototechnik AG (Textile Printing) Julius-Durst-Straße 4, 39042 Brixen, Italy Phone : +39 0472 810111 Email : info@durst.it

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Durst Phototechnik AG's Rho P10 250 wins EDP Award at FESPA in London At last month’s FESPA 2013 Exhibition in London, 25th – 29th June, the Rho P10 250 was announced the winner of the award for the: “Best hybrid UV printer”. Innovation is the main criterion for selecting “Best Products of the Year” for the winners of prestigious EDP Awards. The products are judged on the value of the new technical abilities they offer. This can be innovation in the technology that improves speed, quality, usability and functionality or reduces environmental impact as well as cost to the user. The European Digital Press Association is now in its 7th year, has 20 member magazines covering 23 countries in Europe and represents over 1 million readers. The selection process is in two parts. Firstly the Technical Committee of the European Digital Press Association evaluates the competing products. Secondly, the General Assembly finally considers the Committee’s recommendations and has the last word in giving any Award, which comprises all EDP editors on behalf of the total readership. The Rho P10 250 UV inkjet printer The Rho P10 Series provides a range of machines designed to ideally suit a wide range of applications. The range includes the world’s most versatile 2m wide UV flatbed, the P10 200, with its high level of modularity, and the P10 250 continuous industrial UV flatbed printer with unrivalled production efficiency and capability. The P10 320R UV printer offers a new quality standard for industrial roll to roll printers and has a maximum printing width of 3.2m (by any length). They feature a very small drop size of only 10 picolitres and achieve a print quality of 1000 dpi without loss of speed. The Rho P10 250 is ideal for large format printers which requires the highest quality printing for indoor or outdoor signage, POS/POP material and roll material such as backlits and window displays for luxury goods. The Rho P10 250 is a true hybrid machine capable of printing on the widest range of media and switching from rigid to roll media very quickly and easily. Other features include mechanical front stops for printing parallel boards, the option of light colours and process colour addition (orange and violet) without loss of speed, and the highest reliability on the market. With unrivalled production efficiency capable of uninterrupted printing, 24/7, the Rho P10 250 is a true industrial printer. Now equipped with Durst’s Variodrop and Greyscale technology, productivity and print quality is even further enhanced. Productivity is increased by up to 25% and the improved image quality includes better colour gamut and less banding. By increasing the drop size up to 15 picolitres for high speed printing modes, the Rho P10 250 is capable of printing up to 240 sqm per hour. The Variodrop technology also helps to overcome some of the errors that can occur with traditional greyscale printing.

Rho P10 200/250 UV flatbed printers

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Laser Cutting Textiles (for cotton, silk, felt, lace, synthetic & technical textiles, aramid, polyester, fleece) A Trotec laser can be used for quick and easy cutting of diverse textiles and fabrics. Textiles suitable for cutting with a laser include materials as different as linen, cotton, silk, felt, and more. Trotec lasers are even used for laser cutting especially strong materials, such as Kevlar速 or other technical textiles. Textiles suitable for laser cutting : Aramid, Cotton, Felt, Fleece, Lace, Polyester, Silk, Synthetic & technical textiles. How does laser cutting and engraving of textiles work? Laser engraving refines the surface of the material, thus increasing the quality of the fabric. Unlike in printing, laser engraving additionally produces a haptic effect. Particular benefits when working with the laser on textiles are its speed, flexibility and precision. Moreover, the nesting feature included in the laser software ensures ecoSealed cutting edges to prevent textiles from fraynomical use of the fabrics. ing What designs and formats can I cut with a fabric laser cutter? Whether engraving fleece or producing extravagant form cuts on curtains or lace - the laser offers the user incredible design options, as virtually any design can be realized with the laser. What are the advantages compared to conventional cutting processes? Laser cutting is a contact-less and tool-free process. There is no contact and consequently no warping of textiles and fabrics during laser cutting. The laser beam melts the material and the result are clean, perfectly sealed edges. It is guaranteed that there will be no fraying of the end products.

Laser cutting of textile, silk, lace, etc.

Can I cut all materials equally well with the laser? Synthetic materials respond very well to laser cutting. They very often contain plastic or polyester. The laser beam melts the polyester in a controlled manner, which ensures non fraying edges. When cutting organic textiles, such as cotton or linen, with the laser, the produced cutting edge will show some brown discoloration, similarly to wood. To some degree, this effect can be compensated for by selecting the correct lens and laser parameters, and by the use of compressed air.

Technical textiles can be processed with a Trotec laser cutter

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Trotec product recommendation :

Trotec Laser was founded in 1997 in Marchtrenk (Upper Aus-

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Speedy 100 : The upgradable CO2 compact tria). It was developed from a research branch of its parent company Trodat, the world's leading manufacturer of self-inklaser for demanding entry-level users.

ing rubber stamps. Trotec is one of the world's most important manufacturers of laser machines for engraving, cutting and marking. With our 200 employees working in 13 international sales branches, it has an international services and sales netSpeedy 300 : CO2 flatbed laser machine work. In addition to our state-of-the art CO2 and fiber laser for engraving different materials. machines, we offer our customers comprehensive services, such as technical advice, material tests and technical support Work Area : 29 x 17 inch by top qualified service technicians. Trotec is the recognized Lasertype : CO2 laser, flatbed technological leader in the international market for laser cutSpeedy 500 : Large-size CO2 laser machine ting machines and laser engravers. We understand this as the duty to continue developing and improving our laser machines for high-efficiency cutting and engraving for our customers. The prime example in this regard is the Speedy 300 flexx, the world's first laser system that combines Work Area : 49 x 28 inch CO2 and fiber laser technology in one machine. Lasertype : CO2 laser, flatbed

Work Area : 24 x 12 inch Lasertype : CO2 laser, flatbed

Trotec’s Speedy 100 CO2 laser machine offers an affordable, compact laser solution that meets the needs of any growing business. You purchase what you need to start with CO2 laser engraving and laser cutting, with the option of upgrading later depending on your requirements, ensuring you always have the machine that fits your applications. As with all Trotec lasers, the Speedy 100 displays top quality, unmatched performance, and technological leadership. Upgrade options : - Higher working speed - More laser power (up to 60 watt) - More functions for the control - Extension of warranty: Up to 5 years Materials : Acrylic, Films & foils, Foam, Glass, Leather, Paper, Plastics, Rubber, Stone, Textiles, Wood etc.

Speedy 300

Speedy 300 Laser Engraver : Speedy 300 offers a top speed (355cm/sec. CO2), with an acceleration of 5g. Your benefit : You can produce 30% – 100% more than with competitive systems—every day—without sacrificing quality and this translates to higher profits. Performance, productivity, quality and reliability add up to a lower total cost of ownership—this means value when you choose Trotec. Speedy 300 is available with a CO2 laser, a fiber laser or both laser sources in one laser system. The Trotec Speedy 500 is the ultimate laser cutting and engraving system for those who require fast processing of large volumes and/or large surface materials, where smaller laser models are often insufficient. The Speedy 500 is the most productive system for every application.

Contact : Trotec Laser, Inc., 7610 Market Drive, Canton, MI 48187 (USA) www.troteclaser.com NCM-JULY 2013 39

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Lotus Transfers International (Lotus - The Original from Milan) : More than 40 years of experience and competence in heat transfer to textiles! Since 1972, Lotus has been manufacturing fixing presses and heat transfer presses for textile printing in it's Milan factory Lotus Press. Lotus was founded in order to meet the continuously growing demand for innovative printing techniques in fashion and the demand for personalised textiles in sports and other fields. Over the years a comprehensive product line has been created featuring both very versatile but also very specialised units. Today Lotus offers the widest range of heat presses in Europe. All Lotus products are made in Italy. Compliance with European safety regulations is signified by the CE designation on each Lotus press. At request the presses can be manufactured as single units, custom-tailored to specific customer requirements. Lotus range of products has included only mateIn addition to transfer presses, Lotus also distributes rials that have proved their value in satisfying all materials needed for the transfer to textiles, i.e. all the customers' needs. Easy processing and outtypes of thermally weldable transfer materials. standing price/performance value for more than 500 types of materials! Lotus Milan and Berlin is Lotus Berlin : To provide an even better customer sup- your one-stop source for friendly and competent port and faster deliveries for the international market, advisory service in regard to transfer presses and another international distribution subsidiary Lotus Trans- suitable transfer materials perfectly meeting your fers International was established in Berlin in 1998. requirements. Lotus offers the widest range of hand operated, semiautomatic and pneumatic heat presses for textiles of all sizes - from entry-level to industrial scale. Lotus presses are ideal for each kind of application. Most of them feature easily interchangeable plates and cap sets.

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Plotters : Whether you would like to cut transfer materials for textile printing or self-adhesive films, Lotus plotters can reliably handle virtually any cutting job. All units are delivered with cutting software.

Materials For Plotter Cutting Systems

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Reflective Materials :

Printing on Reflective Material

Transreflex has a shiny reflective surface. You have likely seen the reflective effect of this material on fire-fighter attire. Transreflex provides excellent opacity, can be cut with all customary plotters, and is easily weeded afterwards. The material adheres to various fabrics not treated with silicone, including cotton, polyester, polyester cotton blend, acrylic blend, fleece, polyester blends, and many more. Press Settings : Temperature Time Pressure Washing instructions

: : : :

150°C 15 sec minimum max. 30°C

The kind of the transfer (temperature, pressure) and the type of the textiles can impair the ideal reflection values. This is why one should always follow the processing instructions. Extra Reflex is a high reflective product, manufactured through glass micro balls technology . It has been specially developed for transferring to “difficult” materials. It offers a perfect hold on rain jackets, windbreakers, and leather or nylon goods lightly treated with silicone. Poli Reflex is a high quality shiny reflective transfer film. You have likely seen the reflective effect of this material on firefighter uniforms. It complies with relevant EU standards for reflection values (EN 471, Class 2). Its slightly sticky backing film makes it particularly suitable for smaller lettering and motifs. The material provides excellent opacity, can be cut with all customary plotters, and is easily weeded afterwards. The material adheres to various fabrics not treated with silicone, including cotton, polyester, polyester cotton blend, acrylic blend, fleece, polyester blends, and many more. Flock Materials : Transflock is among the top-selling flock materials on the market because it is very easy to use and provides very reliable and high-quality printing results.The material has excellent opacity and provides very good results, even with smaller lettering and motifs. Transflock has a velvety surface of high-quality viscose fibers. It can be cut with all customary plotters and easily weeded afterwards. The material provides a perfect hold on variNCM-JULY 2013 41

Transflock

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ous fabrics not treated with silicone, including cotton, polyester, polyester cotton blend, acrylic blend, fleece, polyester blend, and many more. Flock Prestige Neon is a premium flock material in neon colors. Digital Printing Materials Colorprint Transparent allows you to produce professional, high- quality and brilliant color transfers for textile printing that are distinguished by their extraordinary durability â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which is achieved by printing on the adhesive side of the film. This transparent transfer film has a hotmelt adhesive backing and is applied to a transparent polyester backing. You can choose either a mat or a shiny surface. Processing the material is easy. After printing, transfers can be cut out. Colorprint Transparent is thin and elastic with a pleasant soft, textile touch. The material is particularly suitable for systems using solvent or eco-solvent inks, including Roland Versacamm SP / VP 300i or SP / VP 540i, MIMAKI JV3, and many others. The material adheres to various fabrics not treated with silicone, including cotton, polyester, polyester cotton blends, acrylic blends, fleece, polyester blends, and many more.

Colorprint Transparent

Colorprint Transparent is printed on back, i.e. on the hotmelt adhesive side. This means you have to print and cut the material in a mirror outline. After the material has dried, weed the print like plotter material. Then transfer the print with the polyester backing left on. Alternatively, you can remove the print from its polyester backing and position it on a textile. If you prefer this kind of processing, remember to cover the motif with a silicone sheet or similar before printing. Remove the cover sheet after the fabric has cooled. This technique is effective at protecting the ink from wear thanks to the transparent film covering. Sublimation Printing Materials Subliflock is a polyester sublimation flock material for multicolor printing. It provides a velvety surface and has been particularly developed for digital printing using sublimation inks. The material has an excellent opacity and can be cut out using plotter cutting systems. Multicolored motifs can be directly or indirectly (using a transfer paper) imprinted. The dense flocking leads to brilliant color printing results. Subliflock can be easily cut and weeded and offers an excellent resistance to yellowing. The material adheres to various fabrics not treated with silicone, including cotton, polyester, polyester cotton blend, acrylic blend, fleece, polyester blends, and many more. Instructions for transferring to textiles are given below :

Sublimation Printing Materials limation inks. After drying, position the printed paper onto the Subliflock material and transfer the motif at 190°C and low pressure for 30 seconds using a heat transfer press. Then transfer the printed flock onto the textile referring to the settings mentioned below :

Direct printing : print the material on the correct side. Remove the print from its polyester backing only after the material has dried, then position the print on a textile. Cover the print with a silicone sheet or similar, and apply it using a heat transfer press. Remove the covering sheet after the fabric has Indirect printing : print a transfer paper using sub- cooled. NCM-JULY 2013 42

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Fashion Materials : 3D-Flex is a plotter cut material that expands when heated, revealing a 3-dimensional texture. The final appearance of the decoration can change according to the application of different transfer settings (time and pressure), allowing the creation of a wide range of surface effects. Maximum thickness at the suggested transfer instructions: 800–1000 microns. Before transfer, 3D-Flex appears as a regular Flex film and can therefore be cut with conventional plotters. Weeding the material is also the same. Only after transferring, can you see the difference – an exceptional 3D-effect. 3D-Flex adheres to various fabrics not treated with silicone, including cotton, polyester, polyester cot- 3D Techno® ton blend, acrylic blends, and many more. This material is not suitable for dyed garments (sublimation inks). 3D Techno® is a slightly elastic, single-step application plotter cut material that expands when heated. The final appearance of the decoration is a 3D effect similar to screenprinting ink. Maximum thickness at the suggested transfer instructions: 800–1000 microns. Before transfer, 3D Techno® appears as a regular Flex film and can therefore be cut with conventional plotters. Weeding the material is also the same. Only after transferring, can you see the difference – an exceptional 3D effect! 3D Techno® adheres to various fabrics not treated with silicone, including cotton, polyester, polyester cotton blends, and many more. This material is not suitable for dyed garments (sublimation inks). Roland GX-24 Plotter Whether you would like to cut transfer materials for textile printing or self-adhesive films, Roland plotters can reliably handle virtually any cutting job. All units are delivered with cutting software. The highperformance successor of the Roland GX series now includes: -

Processing of rolls up to 60cm width.

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Crop mark detection.

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Adjustable roll contact pressure.

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Cutting knife including holder.

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Roll holder for easy insertion of material.

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Roland CutStudio Design cutting software + Plugin for CorelDRAW + Adobe Illustrator (PC & MAC).

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Optional accessories : Various knife holders + knifes.

Lotus Transfers International Anklamer Str. 38, 10115 Berlin, Germany Email : info@lotustransfers.de NCM-JULY 2013 43

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Profile on Production of Bed Sheets with Pillow Cover Sets There is no standard specification for the Bed sheet with pillow cover set. The bed sheets are manufactured by the customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s specification, design and style. There is some specification by the Govt. dept. like Railway, Police and Tourism etc. Production Capacity : 36,000 Nos. (per annum) Value : Rs. 1,26,00,000 Introduction : In a well furnished home, bed room is very important one, as a part of overall interior of a House. So a good bed cover matching with colour of the room and pillow cover is very important as a part of interior bed room. This reflect taste and status of the owner, who has spent enormous sum of money to decorate the house. So the demand of above textile product such as bed cover and pillow cover is increasing in the domestic as well export market every day. The made up products are very easy to manufacture and easily marketable. The above products have been finding acceptance due to low cost of fabrication, saving of cloth as well as saving of time. Market Potential : The demand in the market specially to cater both middle and upper class of families settled in urban areas, bed cover and pillow cover demand is increasing day by day to cater the taste of owner. The market of bed sheet and pillow cover has good scope in India and abroad. The marketing is not a problem provided the customers are made aware of the cost benefit. There is a good market in Delhi, Kolkata, Chennai, Punjab, Haryana and Andhra Pradesh. The export market for Indian bed sheet is in Germany, USA, Canada, U.K., Indonesia and Austria. There is a good demand in Government departments like Railways, Tourism, Defence and Police etc. Bed Sheet with Pillow Covers Set Basis and Presumptions 1. The 250 sq. mt. covered area is required on rental basis @Rs. 20 per sq. mt. depends upon area to area. 2. The machinery and equipment are of a particular make and price of machines are drawn on the basis of present market rates. 3. The working capital has been taken on 3 months basis or 75% efficiency basis. After one or two years the full capacity may be utilized. 4. The technical staff and skilled labour of this industry is locally available. 5. The calculation is based on bed sheet of 5 mtrs. and 1.5 mtr. for pillow cover. 6. The unit will work on single shift basis 300 days in a year. Implementation Schedule : 1. First step is to get the project report prepared/revised in two weeks time. 2. Second step is to locate the premises for factory before delivery of the machines. 3. Third step is to get provisional registration from DIC/Commissioner of Industries. 4. Fourth step is to contact financial institutions for loan, if required. 5. Fifth step is to arrange technical staff and labour for the manufacturing unit. Technical Aspects : Process of Manufacture : In woven cotton fabric/grace fabric/terrycot fabrics different colours and shades are available in the open market. To check unevenness of fabric and defect in colour dyes, the cloth is laid on the table for visual inspection of the said defects before cutting of cloth. The fabric is then cut as per length of bed sheet and pillow cover and stretched, embroidered by stitching machines. The products are labeled, pressed and then packed in polythene packets followed by cartoon boxes for despatch. NCM-JULY 2013 44

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Quality Control and Standards :

(ii) Raw Material and Packaging Material

There are a number of BIS prepared on fabrics so precaution should be taken while purchasing of raw material in fast shade and good quality. Production Capacity (per year) Qty. Nos.

Amount (In Rs.)

Bed sheet set with pillow cover of diff. design & shade

36,000

1,26,000

Motive Power

2 kW.

Item

Qty.

Cotton/gray fabrics 19,500 of different colours, mtrs. design and shade

Rate (Rs.)

Amount (Rs.)

40/mtr.

7,80,000

Sewing/embroidery thread and other set accessories including packing material

Financial Aspects :

Total

A. Fixed Capital

60,000

Rs. 8,40,000

(iii) Utilities (Rs.)

(i) Land & Building (Rented) (per month) (Rs.) : Covered area 250 sq.mt. @ Rs. 20/sq. mt.

5,000

Power/Electricity and Water charges

3,000

(iv) Other Contingent Expenses

(ii) Machinery and Equipment 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

Rent Advertisement and publicity Postage, stationery & Telephone Travelling/transportation charges Taxes/Insurance Misc. Consumable store

Sl. Particulars No.

Qty. Amount (In Rs.)

1.

Foot operated stitching m/c with all accessories

8

36,000

2.

Double needle stitching machine with motor and all accessories

1

35,000

3.

Flat lock stitching machine with motor and accessories

1

34,000

4.

Embroidery machine with motor and all accessories

1

5,000

5.

Installation charges @10% with electrification etc.

11,000

6.

Workshop/testing equipment LS

9,000

C. Total Capital Investment (Rs.)

7.

Office equipment

12,000

1. Fixed capital 2. Working capital (for 3 months)

Total

(iii) Pre-operative Expenses

10,000

Total

5,000 500 2,500 2,500 1,000 800 500

Rs. 12,800

(v) Total Working Capital (Rs.) 1. 2. 3. 4.

Salary and wages Raw material Utilities Other expenses

47,400 8,40,000 3,000 12,800

Total

9,03,200

Total

1,52,000

1,52,000 27,09600

Rs. 28,61,600

B. Working Capital (per month)

Machinery Utilisation :

(i) Staff and Labour

Capacity is utilized 75% of the installed capacity.

Sl. Designation/Nos. No.

Salary (Rs.)

Amount (Rs.)

1. Cutting master 1 2. Supervisor 1 3. Accountant-cum-clerk 1 (part time) 4. Skilled workers 10 5. Un-skilled workers 2 6. Peon-cum-Chowkidar 1 Total (+) perquisites @ 20%

3,500 3,000 1000

3,500 3,000 1000

2,500 2250 2,500

25,000 4,500 2,500 39,500 7,900

Total

Financial Analysis Cost of Production (per annum) (Rs.) (a) Total recurring expenditure (b) Depreciation on m/c and equipments @10% (c) Depreciation @ 20% on office equipment & fixtures (d) Interest on total investment @15%

47,400 NCM-JULY 2013 45

Rs. 1,08,60,000 Rs. 12,100 Rs. 42,00 Rs. 4,30,050

Total

Rs. 1,13,06,350

Say

Rs. 1,13,06,000

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Turnover Rs. (per year) Item

Quantity

Rate (Rs.)

Amount (Rs.)

Bed sheet with pillow covers sets of different colours, design and shades

36,000 Sets

350/Set

1,26,00,000

Net Profit (per year) (Before Income Tax)

=

[Turnover – Cost of Production = Net Profit] Rs. 1,26,00,000 – 1,13,06,000 = Rs. 12,94,000

Net Profit × 100 Net Profit Ratio

1294000 × 1000

=

= Total turnover

=

10.26%

=

45.09%

28,61,600 1294000 × 100

Total Capital Investment

= 28,61,600

Break-even-point (% of total production envisaged) (i) Fixed Cost (Rs.) a. Depreciation b. Rent c. Interest d. 40% of wages for staff and labour e. 40% of other expenses including utilities f. Insurance Total (ii) Net profit (per year)

This profile was prepared by Small Industries Service Institute Okhla, New Delhi-110020 in 2003 and proportional changes in costs should be applied. SISI's contact details are : Phone : 26838118 Fax : 26838016 E-mail : sisi@del.3vsnl.net.in

16,750 60,000 4,30,050 2,36,160 47,040 12,000 8,02,000

Rs. 12,94,000

Break Even Point FC × 100 B.E.P.

=

802000 × 100 =

FC + Profit

80200000 =

802000 + 1294000

= 38.28% 2095000

Addresses of Machinery Suppliers : 1. M/s. Kapoor Sewing Machine F-174-B, Laxmi Nagar, Delhi-110092 2. M/s. K. C. Sewing Machine Jagatpuri, Delhi-110051 3. M/s. Paul Brothers & Co. 1523, Nai Sarak, Delhi-110006 4. M/s. Rajan Hosiery Enterprises 21-B, New Qutab Road, Delhi-110006 5. M/s. Gupta Sewing Machine Co. 2639, Sadar Thana Road, Sadar Bazar, Delhi-6 100% Cotton - Reactive Printed - Bed Sheet and Pillow Cover Set for double bed NCM-JULY 2013 46

All the required raw materials are available in local market.

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An Introduction to Denim Washing Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance it's appeal as per the current fashion or market requirements. Dry denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production. Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to that which artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their daily life. This creates what many feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim. Denim washes are effected by either chemical or mechanical means. Chemical washes : Denim bleach In this process a strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hypochlorite or KMnO4 is added during the washing with or without stone addition. Discoloration produced is usually more apparent depending on strength of the bleach liquor quantity, temperature and treatment time. It is preferable to have strong bleach with short treatment time. Care should be taken for the bleached goods so that they should be adequately antichlored or after washed with peroxide to minimize yellowing. Materials should be carefully sorted before processing for color uniformity.

Bleached denim

Process cycle : Load garment with/without stones

Desize

Rinse

Bleach with cold water

Rinse

Optical brightening

Softening •

Limitations

Bleach

Problem of yellowing is very frequent due to residual chlorine.

Process is difficult to control i.e. difficult to reach • the same level of bleaching in repeated runs.

When desired level of bleaching reached the time span available to stop the bleaching is very narrow. Due to harshness of chemical, it may cause damage to cellulose resulting in severe strength Enzyme wash losses and/or breaks or pinholes at the seam, It is environmentally friendly wash. It involves the pocket, etc. Application of organic enzymes that eat away at Harmful to human health and causes corrosion to the fabric, i.e. the cellulose. When the desired color stainless steel. Required antichlor treatment. is achieved, the enzymes can be stopped by

NCM-JULY 2013 47

Chlorinated organic substances occur as abundant products in bleaching, and pass into the effluent where they cause severe environmental pollution.

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changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. Post treatment includes final rinsing and softening cycle. The effects produced by the cellulose enzyme are : 1. Use of cellulose making the seams, hems, and pockets more noticeable. 2. Salt pepper effect is color contrast effect. 3. Faded garment with acid cellulose enzyme provides less color contrast in proportion to garment washed with neutral cellulose enzymes. Garment load size of the machine is 35-40 jeans per machine and it cannot be overloaded. Acid wash It is done by tumbling the garments with pumice Enzyme wash denim stones presoaked in a solution of sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for localized bleaching resulting in a non uniform sharp blue/white contrast. In this wash the color contrast of the denim fabric can be enhanced by optical brightening. The advantage of this process is that it saves water as addition of water is not required.

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Process cycle Load garment with pumice stones

Desizing

Dry

Dry tumbler

Cool by adding water

Antichlor

Optical brightening

Softening

Acid wash denim

Limitations of acid wash : Acid washed, indigo dyed denim has a tendency to yellow after wet processing. The major cause is residual manganese due to incomplete neutralization, washing or rinsing. Remedy : Manganese is effectively removed during laundering with addition of ethelene-diaminetetraacetic acid as chelating agent. Acid washing jeans avoided some of problems of stone wash, but came with added dangers, expenses, and pollution. NCM-JULY 2013 48

Mechanical washes

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Stone wash : In the process of stone washing, freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large washing machines and tumbled with pumice stones to achieve a soft hand and desirable look. Variations in composition, hardness, size shape and porosity make these stones multifunctional. The process is quite expensive and requires high capital investment. Pumice stones give the additional effect of a faded or worn look as it abrades the surface of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye particles from the surfaces of the yarn.

Stone wash denim

GARMENT

Process cycle : Desize

Load garments and stones

Soften

Rinse

Stone wash

Tumble dry

Unload

Extract

Problems caused by stones : •

Rinse

Damage to wash machineries and garment due to stone to machine and machine to stone abrasion. •

Stones may turn into powder during the process making the garment grayish in color & rough. Provides rougher feel than enzyme wash.

More labor to remove dust from finished garments. •

Water pollution during disposal of used liquor.

Micro-sanding

Back staining and re deposition.

There are three ways for this technique : Sandblasting, Machine sanding and Hand sanding or hand brushing.

Limitations of stone washing : •

• • •

Stone may lead the harm to the machine parts.

Quality of the abrasion process is difficult to con- Sand blasting trol. Outcome of a load of jeans is never uniform, little percentage always getting ruined by too much Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in granular, powdered or other form abrasion. through a nozzle at very high speed and pressure The process is non-selective. onto specific areas of the garment surface to be Metal buttons and rivets on the jeans in the wash- treated to give the desired distressed/ abraded/used ing machines get abraded. look. This reduces quality of the products and life of • equipment, and increases production costs. NCM-JULY 2013 49

It is purely mechanical process, not using any chemicals.

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It is a water free process. So, no drying required.

Variety of distressed or abraded looks possible.

Any number of designs could be created by special techniques.

Whiskering •

Also known as ‘Cat's Whiskers’.

Crease lines around the crotch.

Industrially done with laser, sandblasting, machine sanding, hand sanding and abrasive rods.

Also used for 'knee whiskers' (whiskers on the sides of knees) and 'honeycombs' (crease marks on the back of the knee)

Other chemical washes : Rinse wash - Cellulase wash - Ozone fading - Snow wash - Salt water denim - Flat finish - Over dye - Sun washing - Super dark stone Rinse wash • • • • •

Sand blasted denim Chemically bleaching jeans so that the color fades away. • Indigo dyestuff tends to fade or turn yellow due to ozone reaction. Breaks down the fibers of jeans and creates white streaks or spots on denim. The advantages associated with this process are: Gives a unique rugged look, also called snow • Color removal is possible without losing strength. wash. • This method is very simple and environmentally Earlier involved the use of pumice stone. friendly because after laundering, ozonized water can easily be deozonized by UV radiation. Presently process involves spraying chemical and removing it immediately. Flat finish

Come in colors like blue/black/green/brown/grey It is a special process done to impart fabric with an etc. even wash down effect and very clean surface. Originally liquid ammonia was used, but now use Cellulose wash mercerization plus calendering processes to achieve • This is done to achieve a wash down appearance the flat surface. Mercerization swells up the cotton without the use of stones or with reduced quantifibers and allows the calendering to press flat the ties of stones. surface. They consider this as an imitation process • Cellulose enzymes are selective only to the cel- to the use of ammonia, which is toxic and not allulose and will not degrade starch. lowed in commercial use in most countries. •

Under certain conditions, their ability to react with Over dye cellulose (cotton) will result in surface fiber re• Dyeing over the fabric or jeans to add another moval (weight loss). tone of color. • This will give the garments a washed appearance • Most often used is a 'yellowy' overdye to create and soft hand. a 'dirty' look. Ozone fading • Also can be applied with spray gun or paintbrush • By using this technique, the garment can be for local coloring. bleached. Sun-washing : A very light shade by bleaching and • Bleaching of denim garment is done in washing stoning. Looks as if the sun faded the fabric. machine with ozone dissolved in water. Super dark stone : Commercial term for an extra • Denim garments can also be bleached or faded dark indigo color. Results from a double-dyeing techby using ozone gas in closed chamber. nique. •

In the presence of UV light, there is an interac- Snow wash denim : Denim treated with a variation between the hydrocarbons, oxides of nitro- tion of acid wash that imparts bright white highgen and oxygen that causes release of ozone. lights. NCM-JULY 2013 50

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Quick wash denim

Also called spray painting in denims.

Aims at minimizing wash cycle time.

This technique has relatively high cost.

Results in more economical washes and solving Super stone wash : It is type of wash treatment of many other washing problems faced by launderes denim garments in which the denim garments is during fashion wash cycles. subjected to prolonged stonewash treatment for The yarns are ring dyed using indigo giving 25 to more than six hours. Soda ash and soap are used for hard wash. Steam is used up to 60-80ºC for one 30% less fixed dye to obtain a given shade. hour to finish the washing process. It is followed During wash cycle,indigo dye can be removed by acetic acid wash treatment and then the garquickly,giving washed look Advantages of quick ments are neutralized and rinsed. wash denim. Ice wash : Ice washing in denim fabrics is done to Streaks develop in garments after washing pro- remove more than half the dye during washing. cess due to differences in dye concentration of denim fabrics are avoided using a modified al- Thermo-denim : Also called double denim. A lightkali-ph controlled system giving uniformity of weight fabric (either plain, fancy or colored) is glued to the denim. The glue comes off after washing shade. and the trousers look like they've been lined. Amount of indigo dye required is less thus makVintage : Applies heavy stonewashing or a celluing it an economical process. lose enzyme wash, with or without bleach. Gives Time required for washing is 20-30% less than an old and worn look. that required for conventional denim. Chemicals on denims Lesser enzymes and oxidising agent used. 1. Bleach fast Indigo Environment friendly process.

• •

• •

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• • •

Back staining is minimised due to less concen- • tration of of indigo dye in the wash liqour. •

Value addition to denim. Retains indigo on certain parts.

Other mechanical washings

Kind of resist effect.

• • • • • • •

Fixing Chemical applied by brush, cured at 150ºC.

Whiskering Shot gun denim Water jet fading Super stone wash Ice wash Thermo denim Laser technology finish

2. Anti-depositing agent

Water jet fading

Prevents “back staining” of fabric by loose indigo during washing.

Improves contrast in denim.

Used in stone wash step

Hydrojet treatment is used for enhancing the sur- 3. Dye stuffs with softener face finish, texture, durability of denim garment. • To carry dyeing and softening in one step. • Hydroject treatment involves exposing one or both surfaces of the garment through hydrojet nozzles. • Soft and supple hand. • The degree of color washout, clarity of patterns, • Saves time/money/energy as added to final rinse. & softness of the resulting fabric depend on the type of dye in the fabric and the amount and man- • Gives used and worn out effect. ner of fluid impact energy applied to the fabric. 4. Anti creasing agent • As this process is not involved with any chemi• Provides fabric to fabric lubrication. cal, it is pollution free. • Prevents formation of crack marks and streaks. Laser technology •

Minimizes abrasion and gives strength.

It is a computerised process for denim fading.

This technique enables patterns to be created 5. Wrinkle formation such as lines and/or dots, images, text or even • Creating smooth and permanent wrinkle. pictures. • Cross linking concept Ex. DMDHEU. It is water free fading of denim. • White pigment : Can be applied by brush, spray Being an automatic system, chances of human or screen. Then cured at 150ºC. Finally, washed error are slim. and treated with softener.

• •

NCM-JULY 2013 51

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Sewing Machine : Important Safety Rules & Instructions Safety is important to everyone and it is your responsibility to maintain a safe working place. To maintain a safe environment, learn these safety rules and practice them at all times. Safety Rules : - When in doubt, ask the instructor. - Report any injuries or accidents immediately to the instructor. Also, Report a breakage to a tool or m/c to the instructor. If the equipment does not operate properly, notify the instructor immediately. - Wipe up any oil specified on the floor immediately to prevent anyone from slipping. Keep aisles clear at all times.

- Keep the machine and work station clean with tools in the side drawer. - Use the proper needle for the job. - Do not stitch over pins or put them in your mouth. - When the m/c is not in use, lower the foot and needle. - Three-way plugs are a safety feature on the machines. Do not cut off the ground prong. - Unplug the machine at the end of the day.

- Operate only the machines you have been trained to operate and when the instructor or supervisor/ assistant is present.

- Know the location of the main power switch, outlets, and fuses in case of an emergency.

- Operate machines only with permission.

- Turn off the iron at the end of the work.

- Always inspect the m/c before starting to work. Be sure it is clean and threaded correctly, with no loose threads on the pulley belt and all guards in place.

- Always place the iron on the iron pad to avoid scorching the ironing board cover. Always place the industrial iron flat on the iron pad to avoid knocking it over.

- Make only adjustments you have been trained to perform. Otherwise, as the instructor.

- When trimming or cutting, put all trimmings in the wastebasket.

- When sewing on a power m/c, wear low shoes & close-fitting clothing. Avoid loose fitting sleeves, sweaters, jewelry, ties, and ribbons when operating the machine. If your hair is long, tie it back.

- Scissors should be handed to another person with the handles toward the person. Never toss or throw scissors or equipment.

- Always practice proper posture to reduce fatigue, help prevent accidents and increase efficiency. If possible, adjust the chair height so that your feet rest flat on the floor. - Do not I your chair forward or toward while operate the machine. - Use both hands to raise & lower the machine head. - Always keep your head above the table. - Keep your feet off the treadle when you are setting or threading the needle. - Turn the motor off : (1) before you are not stitching. (2) before cleaning, oiling or adjusting the machine. (3) before removing or replacing the pulley belt and run the machine out. Wait until all motion has stopped. (4) in case of an emergency or when in doubt. (5) before unplugging the machine. - When unplugging the machine, hold onto the plug, not the cord. - Do not use your hand to stop and start the hand wheel. Use your hand only to set the hand wheel. - Before operating the m/c., close the slide bed cover and be sure the needle is properly set and the bobbin is properly placed. - When operating the machine, do not be careless. Do not talk with your colleagues. Keep your attention on your work and hands. Keep your hands at a safe distance from the needle. Keep your hands, scissors, and other sharp objects away from the belt.

- Do not remove any safety devices from the machines.

- Do not eat, drink, or smoke in the work area. Safety instructions All safety devices must be in position when the machine is ready for work or in operation. The operation without the specified safety devices is not allowed. Read the Instruction Manual before you use the machine. In addition, keep this Instruction Manual so that you may read it at anytime when necessary. Use the machine after it has been ascertained that it conforms with safety rules/ standards valid in your Country. General maintenance and inspection work and also repair, remodeling and adjustment works must only be done by appropriately trained technicians or personnel. - For personal protection, wear safety glasses. Tampering with the live parts and devices is prohibited. - For the following, turn off the power switch or disconnect the power plug of the m/c from the receptacle : For threading needle(s), looper, spreader etc. and replacing bobbin. For replacing part(s) of needle, presser foot, throat plate, looper, spreader, feed dog, needle guard, folder, cloth guide etc. For repair work. When leaving the working place or when the working place is unattended. When using clutch motors without applying brake, wait until the motor stops totally. - If you should allow oil, grease, etc. used with the machine and devices to come in contact with your eyes or skin or swallow any of such liquid by mistake, immediately wash the contacted areas and consult a doctor. (Courtesy : OCFIT, Hyderabad)

NCM-JULY 2013 52

Problem Solving at Various Stages in The Dyeing of Cotton Textile Materials (Part II : Contd. from the May 2013 issue) Problems in Singeing Textiles are singed in order to improve their surface appearance and wearing properties. The burning-off of protruding fibre-ends which are not firmly bound in the yarn, results in a clean surface which allows the structure of the fabric to be clearly seen. Unsinged fabrics soil more easily than singed fabrics. The risk of cloudy dyeings (a defect consisting of random, faintly defined uneven dyeing) with singed piecedyed articles in dark shades is considerably reduced, as randomly protruding fibres cause a diffused reflection of light. Although cotton textile materials can be singed in yarn, and knitted as well as woven forms, singeing of woven fabrics is much more common as compared to other forms. Two main methods of singeing are direct flame singeing and indirect flame singeing. There are singeing faults that are optically demonstrable and are quite easily remedied during the actual working process. On the other hand there are singeing faults that are not visible until after dyeing and that can no longer be repaired once they have occurred. A summary of problems in the singeing of woven fabrics is given in adjoining Table 1. Problems in Desizing Sizing has been considered as an â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;invention of the devilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; by some dyers and finishers because it is the main source of many processing problems. Warp yarns are coated with sizing agents prior to weaving in order to reduce their frictional properties,

Table 1 : Summary and Solutions to Problems in Singeing Problem

Possible Cause

Incomplete singeing

1. Too low flame intensity 2. Too fast fabric speed 3. Too far distance between the fabric & the burner 4.Inappropriate singeing position (not severe enough) 5. Too much moisture in the fabric incoming for singeing

Countermeasure : Ensure optimum flame intensity, fabric speed, distance between the fabric and the burner, singeing position. Also, ensure that there is no excess moisture in the fabric incoming for singeing. Uneven singeing (widthways)

1. Non-uniform moisture content across the fabric width 2. Non-uniform flame intensity across the fabric width 3. Uneven distance between the burner and the fabric

Countermeasure : Ensure uniform moisture content and flame intensity across the fabric width. Also, ensure uniform distance between the fabric and the burner. Uneven singeing (lengthways)

1. Non-uniform moisture content along the fabric length 2. Non-uniform flame intensity along the fabric length 3. Change in fabric speed during singeing 4. Change in the distance between the fabric& the burner along the length

Countermeasure : Ensure uniform moisture content and flame intensity across the fabric length. Also, ensure uniform distance between the fabric and the burner along the length. The fabric speed during singeing should also be uniform. Thermal damage or Reduction in tear strength

1. Too high flame intensity 2. Too slow fabric speed 3. Too close distance between the fabric and the burner 4. Inappropriate singeing position (too severe)

Countermeasure : Ensure optimum flame intensity, fabric speed, distance between the fabric and the burner, and the singeing position. decrease yarn breakages on the loom and improve weaving productivity by increasing weft insertion speeds. The sizing agents are macromolecular, filmforming and fibre bonding substances, which can be divided into two main types : natural sizing agents which NCM-JULY 2013 53

include native and degraded starch and starch derivatives, cellulose derivatives and protein sizes; and synthetic sizes which include polyvinyl alcohols, polyacrylates and styreneâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; maleic acid copolymers. Starch-based sizing agents are most commonly

Problem Solving in The Dyeing of Cotton Textile Materials (Part II) used for cotton yarns because of being economical and capable of giving satisfactory weaving performance. Other products are also used, either alone or in combination with starch sizes, when the higher cost can be offset by improved weaving efficiency. Some auxiliaries are also used in sizing for various functions and include softening agents, lubricating agents, wetting agents, moistening agents, size degrading agents, and fungicides. The desizing procedure depends on the type of size. It is therefore necessary to know what type of size is on the fabric before desizing. This can easily be determined by appropriate spot tests. The sizing material present on warp yarns can act as a resist towards dyes and chemicals in textile wet processing. It must therefore be removed before any subsequent wet processing of the fabric. The factors on which the efficiency of size removal depends are as follows : •

Viscosity of the size in solution.

Ease of dissolution of the size film on the yarn. Amount of size applied.

• •

Nature and the amount of the plasticizers.

Fabric construction.

Method of desizing.

Method of washing-off.

Different methods of desizing are :

oxidative desizing. Acid steeping is a risky process and may result in the degradation of cotton cellulose while rot steeping, hot caustic soda treatment and hot washing with detergents are less efficient for the removal of the starch sizes.

Some disadvantages of enzymatic desizing include lower additional cleaning effect towards other impurities, no effect on cer tain starches (e.g. tapioca starch) and possible loss of effectiveness through enzyme poisons.

Enzymatic desizing consists of three main steps: application of the enzyme, digestion of the starch and removal of the digestion products. The common components of an enzymatic desizing bath are as follows:

Oxidative desizing can be effected by hydrogen peroxide, chlorites, hypochlorites, bromites, perborates or persulphates. Two important oxidative desizing processes are : the cold padbatch process based on hydrogen peroxide with or without the addition of persulphate; and the oxidative padsteam alkaline cracking process with hydrogen peroxide or persulphate. The advantages offered by oxidative desizing are supplementary cleaning effect, effectiveness for tapioca starches and no loss in effectiveness due to enzyme poisons. Some disadvantages include the possibility of fibre attack, use of aggressive chemicals and less variety of application methods.

Amylase enzyme

pH stabiliser

Chelating agent

Salt

Surfactant

Optical brightener

The enzymes are only active within a specific range of pH, which must be maintained by a suitable pH stabiliser. Chelating agents used to sequester calcium or combine heavy metals may be injurious to the enzymes and must be tested before use. Certain salts may be used to enhance the temperature stability of enzymes. Surfactants may be used to improve the wettability of the fabric and improve the size removal. Generally, non-ionic surfactants are suitable but it is always recommended to test the compatibility of surfactants before use. Some brighteners may also be incorporated in the desizing bath which may be carried through the end of the pretreatment, resulting in improved brightness but again, their compatibility must be ascertained before use.

Enzymatic desizing.

Oxidative desizing.

Acid steeping.

Rot steeping (use of bacteria).

Desizing with hot caustic soda treatment.

No damage to the fibre.

No usage of aggressive chemicals.

Hot washing with detergents.

• Wide variety of application processes.

The most commonly used methods for cotton are enzymatic desizing and

Enzymatic desizing offers the following advantages :

High biodegradability. NCM-JULY 2013 54

After desizing, the fabric should be systematically analyzed to determine the uniformity and thoroughness of the treatment. It is first weighed to determine the percent size removed. The results are compared with a sample known to have been desized well in the lab. If the size is not adequately removed then either the treatment or washing have not been thorough. Iodine spot tests are then conducted on the fabric. The fabric is not spotted randomly but from sidecentre-side at different points along the length of the fabric. The results of this evaluation give some idea of the causes of any inadequate treatment. Some of the most common problems in enzymatic desizing and their possible causes are given in Table 2. Problems in Scouring Various aspects of cotton fabric preparation have been presented by Rosch and Sebb. An important, if not

Problem Solving in The Dyeing of Cotton Textile Materials (Part II) the most important, operation in the pretreatment of cotton is the scouring or alkaline boil-off process. The purpose of alkaline boil-off and the ensuing washing stage is to perform extensive fibre-cleaning by ensuring a high degree of extraction of pectins, lignins, waxes and grease, proteins, alkaline earth metals (Ca and Mg), heavy metals (iron, manganese and copper), low molecular weight cellulose fragments, dirt and dust; and softening of husks. The result is an increased responsiveness of cotton to subsequent processing. The process removes water insoluble materials such as oils, fats, and waxes from the textile material. These impurities coat fibres and inhibit rapid wetting, absorbency and absorption of dyes and chemical solutions. Oils and fats are removed by saponification with hot sodium hydroxide solution. The process breaks the compounds down into water-soluble glycerols and soaps. Unsaponifiable material such as waxes and dirt are removed by emulsification. This requires the use of surfactants to disperse the water-insoluble material into fine droplets or particles in the aqueous medium. Both of these processes (saponification and emulsification) take place in a typical scouring process. In addition, the scouring process softens and swells the motes to facilitate their destruction during bleaching. Depending on the amount of impurities and the reaction and wash conditions, the loss in weight of the raw cotton material due to boil-off can reach up to seven percent or even higher in case of high-impurity cotton. The important parameters of the scouring process are as follows : •

Concentration of caustic soda.

Type and concentration of auxiliaries.

Treatment temperature.

Reaction time.

The higher the caustic soda

concentration, the shorter can be the dwell time. In other words, the shorter the dwell time, the higher the concentration required. The caustic soda concentration normally employed neither affects the ash content nor the average degree of polymerisation [DP] of cotton. Too high a concentration (e.g. > 8% o.w.f) may result in a reduction in DP as well as yellowing of the cotton fibre. The higher the concentration, the greater will be the fat removal. Due to the high degree of fat removal, the absorbency will also increase but there may be harshness in the handle of the material. Two important auxiliaries used in scouring are chelating agents and surfactants. Other auxiliaries that may sometimes be employed include antifoaming and anticreasing agents. Chelating agents are used to eliminate water hardness and heavy metals, such as iron and copper which can affect the scouring process. These agents bind polyvalent cations such as calcium and magnesium in water and in fibres, thus preventing the precipitation of soaps. If polyvalent ions are present, insoluble soaps may form, settle on the fabric and produce resist spots. There are four major types of sequestering agents to choose from : inorganic polyphosphates, aminocarboxylic acids, organophosphonic acids, and hydroxycarboxylic acids. The inorganic polyphosphates such as sodium tripolyphosphate and sodium hexametaphosphate are probably the best overall in that in addition to sequestering most metals they also aid in cleansing the fibres. They may, however, hydrolyze at high temperature and loose their effectiveness. The aminocarboxylic acid types such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) are very good in that they sequester most metal ions and are very stable under alkaline conditions. They are the most used types. The organophosphonic acid types such as NCM-JULY 2013 55

ethylenediaminetetra (methylene phosphonic acid) are also very effective but comparatively expensive. Oxalates and hydroxycarboxylic acids (citrates, etc.) are excellent for sequestering iron but not effective for calcium and magnesium. In order to quickly and effectively bring the chemicals to the textile material, i.e. to improve their wettability and to ensure that the fibrous impurities will be removed as far as possible, it is necessary to add surfactants with good wetting and washing/emulsifying properties. A surfactant of optimal versatility to be used for preparation, and in particular for the scouring and bleaching processes, ought to meet the following requirements : •

It should have an excellent wetting ability within a wide temperature range.

It should permit a good washing effect and have a high emulsifying power for natural fats, waxes and oils.

It should be resistant to oxidants and reducing agents.

It should be resistant to waterhardening substances.

It should be highly stable to alkalinity.

It should be biodegradable and nontoxic.

Care should be taken in selecting the surfactants because of the inverse effect of temperature on the solubility of non-ionic surfactants. If the process temperature is above the cloud point of the surfactant, the surfactant may be ineffective and may actually be deposited on the substrate. The surfactant used should have a cloud point temperature just above the operating temperature, to be most effective. The cloud point of non-ionic surfactants decreases in the presence of alkalis and electrolytes and the degree to which it is lowered increases with concentration. The cloud point should therefore be checked under

Problem Solving in The Dyeing of Cotton Textile Materials (Part II) application conditions to ensure that the surfactant is effective under those conditions. The adverse effect of temperature on non-ionic surfactants can be reduced by the addition of an anionic surfactant. Crypto-non-ionic surfactants do not exhibit a cloud point. These are non-ionic surfactants that are capped with an ionic group and they exhibit the excellent emulsifying properties of non-ionics along with the good solubility properties of anionics. Higher scouring temperatures will reduce treatment times and vice versa. At high temperature, however, there will be complete removal of fats and waxes, which will promote harsh handle of the material. Moreover, the cloud point of the surfactant also has to be taken into account while applying high temperature. In the case of pad-steam scouring, a typical process consists of the following steps: Saturating the fabric with a solution of sodium hydroxide, surfactant and sequestering agent; steaming; and thorough washing. After scouring, the material is checked for thoroughness and uniformity of scouring as well as other scouring faults. Problems in Bleaching Cotton, like all natural fibres, has some natural colouring matter, which confers a yellowish brown colour to the fibre. The purpose of bleaching is to remove this colouring material and to confer a white appearance to the fibre. In addition to an increase in whiteness, bleaching results in an increase in absorbency, levelness of pretreatment, and complete removal of seed husks and trash. In the case of the production of full white finished materials, the degree of whiteness is the main requirement of bleaching. The amount of residual soil is also taken into consideration because of the possibility of later yellowing of the material. In the case of pretreatment for dyeing, the degree of whiteness is not as important as, for example, the cleanliness of the material, especially

the metal content. Similar demands refer to the production of medical articles. In this case, too, the metal content as well as the ash content are important factors. If whiteness is of primary importance, it requires a relatively large amount of bleaching agent as well as a high operating temperature and a long dwell time.

Concentration peroxide.

Concentration of alkali.

pH.

Temperature.

Time.

Nature and quality of the goods.

Accurate regulation of the bleaching bath is a further obligatory requirement. Where the destruction of trash, removal of seed husks and an increase in absorbency is a prime necessity (e.g. for dyed goods), a high degree of alkalinity is all important. It is, however, not the alkali alone that is responsible for these effects. The levelness of pretreatment can only be guaranteed if cotton of the same or equal origin is processed in each bath. If this is not the case, suitable pre-treatment will have to be undertaken to obtain, as closely as possible, the required uniformity. A pre-treatment with acid and/or a chelating agent will even out (better still eliminate) varying quantities of catalytic metallic compounds.

Water hardness impurities.

Types and concentration of auxiliaries. Desired bleaching effect.

Although there are different bleaching agents that can be used for bleaching cotton, hydrogen peroxide is, by far, the most commonly used bleaching agent today. It is used to bleach at least 90% of all cotton and cotton blends, because of its advantages over other bleaching agents. The nature of the cotton colour, its mechanism of removal with hydrogen peroxide and the basic rules for formulation of bleaching liquors have been presented in detail elsewhere. The mere formulation of the correct initial bath concentration is not sufficient to ensure a controlled bleaching process. Of equal importance are regular checks of the bath composition during the operation. Such checks do not only contribute to an economic bleaching operation but also allow an early tracing of the defects and failures of the system. The important parameters for bleaching with hydrogen peroxide are as follows: NCM-JULY 2013 56

• •

of

hydrogen

and

other

Available equipment, and stabilizer system employed.

Most of these factors are inter-related, and all have a direct bearing on the production rate, the cost and the bleaching quality. Though they operate collectively, it is better to review them individually for the sake of clarity. There are two concentrations to be considered: that based on the weight of the goods and that based on the weight of the solution. All other factors being equal, the concentration on the weight of the goods determines the final degree of whiteness. In order to get adequate bleach there must be enough peroxide present from the start. On the other hand, the peroxide concentration based on the weight of the solution will determine the bleaching rate — the greater the solution concentration, the faster the bleaching. No peroxide bleaching system ever uses up its entire peroxide charge for active bleaching, as some is always ‘lost’ during normal process. The alkalinity in the system is primarily responsible for producing the desired scour properties and maintaining a reasonably constant pH at the desired level throughout the bleaching cycle. The quantity of the alkali to be added depends above all on the character of the goods, the finish required and the kind and quality of the other ingredients in the liquor. The alkalinity is defined as the ‘amount’ of alkali in the system

Problem Solving in The Dyeing of Cotton Textile Materials (Part II) and should be distinguished from the pH, which is a measure of the hydrogen ion concentration in the solution. The pH value in peroxide bleaching is of extreme importance because it influences bleaching effectiveness, fibre degradation and peroxide stability in bleaching cotton fibres. With increasing pH, whiteness index increases to a maximum at a pH of 11.0 and then decreases. Fibre degradation is at minimum at a pH of 9.0 but that which occurs at a pH of 10.0 is well within acceptable values. Above a pH of 11.0, fibre degradation is unacceptably severe. A pH range of 10.2–10.7 is considered optimum for bleaching cotton with hydrogen peroxide. Lower pH values can lead to decreasing solubility of sodium silicate stabiliser (see below) as well as lower whiteness due to less activation of the peroxide. By increasing the temperature, the degree of whiteness as well as its uniformity increases. However, at too high a temperature, there is a possibility of a decrease in the degree of polymerisation of the cotton. Moreover, due to good fat removal at high temperatures such as 110°C, the handle of the material can become harsh and the sewability of woven cotton fabrics may also decrease. Time, temperature and concentration of peroxide are all inter-related factors. At lower temperatures, longer times and higher concentrations are required. As the temperature of bleaching increases, shorter times and lower peroxide concentrations can be employed. The amount of peroxide decomposed is greatly reduced with increasing weight of cotton fibre in the bleach liquor. The raw fibre almost completely suppresses decomposition, while the scoured fibre is somewhat less effective. The demineralised fibre is the least effective stabiliser. While impurities such as magnesium and calcium may have a good stabilising effect when present in appropriate amounts, other impurities such as iron,

copper and manganese can have very harmful effect, resulting in catalytic decomposition of hydrogen peroxide leading to fibre damage. A good stabilising system is indispensable in bleaching cotton with hydrogen peroxide. While sodium silicate is one of the most commonly used stabilisers, its use may result in a harsh handle of the fabric as well as resist spots leading to spotty dyeing. The best alternatives to sodium silicate are organic stabilisers or a combination of silicate and organic stabilisers. In addition to the most important ingredients of the bleaching recipe, namely hydrogen peroxide, caustic soda and the stabilizer, auxiliaries are used sometimes to aid the bleaching process. These may include surfactants and chelating agents. The type and concentration of these auxiliaries also plays an important role in the bleach effect obtained. The desired bleaching effect does not need necessarily be optimal white. For goods-to-be-dyed, the main concern will normally be achieving good and uniform absorbency. The available equipment plays a role in determining which process criteria must be taken into account such as: cold, hot or HT bleaching; dry-wet or wet-on-wet impregnation; discontinuous or continuous processing; process control. The most common problems in bleaching cotton with hydrogen peroxide are as follows : •

Inadequate mote removal.

Low degree of whiteness.

Uneven whiteness (or bleaching).

Pinholes, tears, broken yarns, catalytic damage, loss in strength.

Resist marks.

Formation of oxycellulose.

It is not always possible to find the NCM-JULY 2013 57

cause of these problems without detailed analyses. The most useful tests that can be carried out to check the effectiveness of the bleaching process are for whiteness, absorbency and tensile strength. Checks and measures are required also to assure level dyeing properties. After bleaching, for example, the pH of the goods should be adjusted in the last rinse. Control of residual moisture content (e.g. 7% for cotton) is part of the standard pre-treatment, which should be uniform throughout the material. Problems in Mercerization Mercerization is the treatment of cotton with a strong sodium hydroxide solution. This process improves many properties of cotton fibres and may actually reduce or eliminate some dyeing problems. Some of the properties of cotton fibres that are improved by this process include : •

Increase in dye affinity.

Increase in chemical reactivity.

Increase in dimensional stability.

Increase in tensile strength.

Increase in lustre.

Increase in fabric smoothness.

Improvement in the handle.

Improvement in the appearance.

There are many possible variations in the mercerization process. A review of technical research and commercial developments in mercerisation has been given by Greenwood. Mercerization of cotton can be carried out on raw fibre, yarn, and knitted or woven fabric, and at any stage during preparation. Fabric may be mercerised in greige form, after desizing, after scouring or after bleaching. The choice depends upon the type of goods, the particular plant set-up, and the requirements of the final mercerized fabric. To be Contd. in the next issue

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES

Insight into the U.S. and Global Wool Market Wool Textile Industry Conditions : Trends, Drivers and Prospects Imports of wool clothing by the United States of America has fallen in the past 12 months compared with the previous year, continuing a decline which began in the last quarter of 2011. This downturn has negatively affected wool textile conditions in the major wool processing countries and dampened raw wool demand. The US is one of the world’s three largest consuming countries of wool clothing at retail, as well as being one of the largest consumers of clothing of all fibers in the world. The vast majority of the wool clothing consumed each year by the US is satisfied by imports. The major source countries for the US are China, Vietnam, Mexico and Italy. The latest statistics available from the US Department of Commerce’s Office of Textiles and Apparel shows that in

Retail Demand and Economic Conditions The economic news in the past month has been very mixed. There has been some good news coming out of the US reinforcing the forecast of a gradual economic recovery, driven in part by a recovery in the US housing sector. As well, Japan’s economic growth hit an annualized 3.5% in the first quarter of the year, the strongest result for some time. On the downside, the Euro-zone region recorded its 6th consecutive quarter of negative growth. This is a longer run of negative growth than during the Global Financial Crisis in 20082009, although the fall in economic growth is not as severe as during the GFC. Even so, the latest results from the OECD for its leading economic indicators suggest that the world’s economies will turn up in the nine months. This brings hopes for an improvement in wool prices, as the chart below shows. This will require a continued improvement in consumer confidence, however. the 12 months to April, US imports of wool clothing fell by 17% in volume and by 10% in value. This year-on-year fall in wool clothing imports by the US began in October 2011. In contrast to the fall in imports of wool clothing, US imports of clothing made from synthetic fibers increased in both volume and value. US imports of cotton cloth-

US Imports of Wool Apparel Down (12 months to April 2013) - Volume and Value

Source : OTEXA NCM-JULY 2013 58

ing was up in volume terms but down slightly in value terms. The chart shows the latest data in detail. As the chart shows, three of the four largest supplying countries of wool clothing have recorded declines in the imports by the US, with the biggest fall being recorded by China. China is

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Outlook Little has changed in the past month to change the outlook for the wool market in the next few months. Supply to the market will remain low until the Southern Hemisphere spring, with the usual flush of new seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shorn wool coming on to the market. The signs of recovery in economic conditions and Japan are both very welcome, they simply confirm the forecast of a slow improvement in economic conditions, although the Euro-zone countries are set to remain under pressure for the remainder of 2013.It seems highly likely that econom ic conditions will improve sufficiently in time for the Fall/ Winter season to bring better retail sales, but that retailers will have not increased their orders of wool clothing to meet the improved retail sales. As a result, woolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s share of imports and retail sales will be under pressure. In turn, better-thanexpected retail sales could boost retailer orders and raw wool demand at the end of 2013 and into the first half of 2014.

Wool Production and Supply Australian wool production is forecast to increase in the 2012/13 season, with production of superfine, fine and cross-bred wool being the driver of the increase. At the same time, production of medium merino wool has fallen, both in total and as a share of total production. In spite of low prices for superfine wool (18.5 micron and finer) in the past two seasons, Australian production of superfine wool has increased by 18% this season and its share of total production has increased to 22%, the highest ever recorded. This has been something of a surprise, particularly as seasonal conditions during the growing season had been reasonably good which encourages broader wool. Fine wool (19 to 20 micron) production has also lifted by a smaller amount than superfine wool (+7%). Medium Merino Wool Production In Australia Falls Shares of Wool Tested by Micron Category (Snapshots: 2000/01 to 2012/13*) % share

the largest supplier of wool clothing to the US with a share of 50%. These different trends between wool and competing fibers suggests that wool has lost market share in the US in the past year or so. This will need to be reversed to aid a recovery in raw wool demand. Wool and Fiber Prices Wool prices in Australia and South Africa fell in May, the fourth consecutive declines in prices in US$ terms. After an initially sharp fall in the first half of the month, wool prices stabilized and recovered a little, although month-average prices were down by around 4%. The falls come as concerns about retail orders for the coming Fall/ Winter season among the major wool processors in China, India and Europe have weighed down on the market. In local currency terms, Australian and South African wool prices in the local currencies actually increased a little because the US$ increased in value against both currencies. While wool prices declined, prices for cotton, polyester and acrylic fibers all moved only slightly, continuing the trend seen for the past six months or

Source: AWTA * Forecast based on data to April for 2012/13 season Production of cross-bred wool (25 to 28 micron) was up again (by 7%), continuing the steady increase seen since the mid-2000s. The trend to cross-bred wool has come as a result of increased use of meat breed rams with merino ewes to produce lambs for the meat market. The chart shows the trends by each micron category. At the same time, production of medium merino wool (21 to 24 micron) has fallen this season, continuing the long term decline in production of this wool. A shift to fine and superfine wool and cross-bred wool has been the cause. The increased production of superfine wool and, to a lesser extent fine wool, has weighed down on the prices for these wools this season. In contrast, the decline in production of medium merino wool has helped support the prices for this wool. The low premium for superfine and fine wool over medium merino wool could ultimately see lower superfine production. more. An analysis of the trends in prices for each competing fibers as well as prices for superfine, fine and medium merino wool shows that wool prices are still well above the level at the start of 2009, in spite of the recent falls. They have also performed better than prices for other fibers. Medium merino wool (21 micron) prices have done best, and remain in the top 90% of historical prices. This situation could be maintained given the low production levels. NCM-JULY 2013 59

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Recycled textile clothing standard reaches new consumer markets

Public art installation made out of more than 17,000 recycled plastic bottles,

The R Cert marks a new era for consumer transparency in asia’s mainstream fashion market The R Cert, a consumer-facing standard for recycled textile clothing, was issued for a second time for the ‘Recycled Collection by Esprit’ in a breakthrough demonstrating a new era for Asia’s sustainable fashion innovation. The R Cert is now present in new consumer markets, including Mainland China, Taiwan, Singapore, Hong Kong and Malaysia before later in the year reaching New Zealand and Australia. Asian fashion NGO, Redress, developed the R Cert last year to encourage brands to up-cycle their textile waste and to educate consumers about the source and impact of their recycled textile clothing. The R Cert is a consumer-facing standard that verifies that a brand recycled their own pre-consumer textile waste into their own recycled textile clothing, with a minimum requirement of 20% recycled fibres per garment. It provides a traceable supply chain that allows consumers to track their recycled textile clothing’s journey from factory to retail by viewing English and Chinese animations on the www.rcert.org website. The R Cert is issued by Redress and includes a requirement for factory level suppliers to be GRS (Glo-

Designed by penda, the cola-bow installation is a public art installation made out of more than 17,000 recycled plastic bottles, which were braided to create a shape inspired by the swings of the Coca-Cola logo. Designed for the 2nd Beijing University Creation Expo, which turns into the Beijing Design Week, the installation aims to also serve as a statement against plastic pollution by taking trash and turning it into a shelter. bal Recycle Standard) certified. “The R Cert catalyzes brands to move closer to closed-loop production by recycling their pre-consumer textile waste into their own recycled textile clothes. It is a scalable business solution for the industry’s excessive textile manufacturing waste rates that has demonstrated environmental benefits. Significantly, the R Cert provides a bridge for brands to communicate complex industry processes with simple, transparent and instant consumer education to engage consumers about the benefits of textile recycling,” said Christina Dean, Founder of Redress. Giving consumers confidence in claims

The R Cert guarantees that brands recycled their own ‘factory fresh’ textile waste into their own recycled textile clothing and it allows you to TRACK your recycled clothing’s journey from factory to retail.

Increasingly, consumers demand more sustainable commitments from fashion brands and have stronger expectations for transparency and credibility around sustainability claims. The R Cert cuts through complex technical industry jargon with instant and accesNCM-JULY 2013 60

sible information to provide supply chain transparency giving consumers confidence in their brand’s recycled content and source. Redress’ addition of Chinese language animations and content to the R Cert is a significant strategic development to cater to Asia’s increasingly dominant and fast-growing mainstream fashion consumer. Consumers can track their recycled textile clothing’s journey from factory to retail by scanning a QR code on the hangtag or by inputting a unique code into the R Cert website. Consumers are then directed to their brand’s customized, mobile-friendly animation where they discover how their recycled clothes were produced and learn about their clothes’ environmental benefits. Alternatively, consumers can track directly though the R Cert website without the use of a QR code or track code. Environmental savings at the core On an industry level, the R Cert un-

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES derpins Redress’ mission to reduce waste in the fashion supply chain and is intended to inspire an industry-wide adoption of pre-consumer textile waste up-cycling. The process of up-cycling pre-consumer textile waste, such as cut-andsew, end-of-roll and damaged textiles into higher quality clothes prolongs the textile’s life-cycle within the fashion loop, instead of being down-cycled or discarded as waste materials. This form of up-cycling slows down the production and need for virgin fibres and, therefore, the depletion of natural resources. The role of up-cycling is significant for the fashion industry, where an estimated 80 billion garments are produced every year from natural resources and where an estimated 15% of textiles intended for clothing ends up on the cutting room floor. At the garment level, the recycled textile clothes that have received the R Cert to date are demonstrated to give environmental savings. In the case of the ‘Recycled Collection by Esprit’, their 35% recycled cotton and 65% recycled PET clothes gave savings of 53% greenhouses gas, 74% water and 18% electricity per garment. Their 43% recycled cotton and 57% virgin cotton undyed denim gave savings of 37% greenhouse gas, 19% water and 17% electricity per garment, as evaluated by independent carbon management company, Reset Carbon. More sustainable alternatives hit the mainstream fashion market The issuance of the R Cert to Esprit provides further motivation to extend sustainable fashion options in Asia. Esprit, who have over 1,000 owned and operated retail stores globally, was the first brand to use the R Cert for the ‘Recycled Collection by Esprit’ last year. Now in their second year, Esprit has expanded their retail distribution of their ‘Recycled Collection by Esprit’ from just Hong Kong in 2012 to include Hong Kong, Mainland China, Taiwan, Singapore and Malaysia and, later in

ESPRIT’s flagship store at People’s Square the year, New Zealand and Australia. “The R Cert translates Esprit’s textile recycling programme in a consumerfriendly format that informs customers about our continued commitment to provide high performing and fashionable clothing constructed with recycled textiles, which have a lighter environmental footprint. We’re proud that this sustainable fashion breakthrough originated in China and that Esprit is offering Asia’s consumers with sustainable fashion and cares for the environment” said Charles Dickinson, Head of Global Quality Management and Sustainability, Esprit.

or 31%, according to market-research firm, Canadean. On the supply chain side, the up-cycling of pre-consumer textile waste into products of higher quality represents an exciting business and environmental solution for the region that is responsible for 57% of the worlds clothing exports to the rest of the world (2010) For more information about the R Cert and to view the animated supply chain and environmental savings please visit www.rcert.org. The R Cert was previously called the R Certificate (www.rcertificate.com) in 2012.

Asia leading the way

About Redress

The R Cert’s development and issuance in Asian markets reflects several trends taking place in Asia’s fashion market, where transparency and sustainable fashion innovation have traditionally lagged behind the rest of the world.

Redress is an NGO with a mission to promote environmental sustainability in the fashion industry by reducing textile waste, pollution, water and energy consumption. They achieve this via educational sustainable fashion competitions, shows, exhibitions, seminars, research and by a recycled textile clothing standard. They collaborate with a wide range of stakeholders, including multiple fashion designers, textile and garment manufacturers, brands, schools and universities, multilateral organisations, governments, NGOs, financial institutions and media organisations.

As Asia’s market develops, it is important to educate new consumers and to give them sustainable fashion options. Asia has leapfrogged the U.S. to become the world's biggest retailing market, with regional retail sales rising to $3.8 trillion in 2011, or 41% of the global pie, from $3.2 trillion in 2006, NCM-JULY 2013 61

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Autoliv to build textile center in China to support growth Stockholm : Autoliv Inc., the global leader in automotive safety systems, will invest around $50 million in a textile center in China. The new center is needed to meet the strong demand for airbags in China and other Asian markets. The center will also make Autoliv even more competitive by reducing supplier costs through vertical integration. The textile center will consist of a weaving plant, an airbag cushion plant and a development center for airbag cushions and textiles. The weaving plant will focus on manufacturing textiles for airbags using Autoliv's patented “one-piecewoven” (OPW) technology. By using this efficient technology, the airbag cushions can be almost ready-made on the weaving loom. This plant will have a floor space of more than 8,000 square meters (almost 100,000 sq. feet) and have around 150 employees. In addition a separate building of similar size will be constructed at the same site for airbag cushion manufacturing. This is a relocation from an existing site in the Shanghai area, allowing the current site to expand its airbag module manufacturing capacity. This airbag cushion operation will have around 1000 employees. In line with its strategy of globalizing products and processes Autoliv will, when the project is completed have in house manufacturing of OPW in all of its three regions, (Europe, Americas, Asia), produced according to the same process. The plant will also produce woven fabric for traditional “cut and sewn” cushions.

Driver Airbag

ers in the world. Together with its joint ventures, Autoliv has approximately 80 facilities with more than 50,000 employees in 29 countries. In addition, the Company has ten technical centers in nine countries around the world, with 21 test tracks, more than In addition a co-located development center for airbag any other automotive safety supplier. Sales in 2012 amounted to cushion and textile will be created. It will focus on US $8.3 billion. For more information about Autoliv, please visit company’s website at www.autoliv.com. standardized designs for the Asia region.

Monforts introduce new generation EcoApplicator at Techtextil 2013

Globally, in 2012, Autoliv produced 70 million airbag cushions in-house and purchased 40 million from external suppliers for its total production of 110 million complete airbags. Debut for new Eco-Applicator offering significant energy savings “The textile center is very important to meet the in- for a wide range of technical textile applications from A.Monforts creasing demand for airbags in China and other Asian Textilmaschinen at Techtextil; on the company’s largest stand at markets,” said Jan Carlson, President and CEO of the technical textiles exhibition Autoliv Inc. “In addition, the textile center will increase A.Monforts Textilmaschinen introduced its latest, second genour level of in-house component sourcing and enable eration, Eco Applicator system for the application of liquors or standardized designs in Asia region and globally, while functional chemicals and designed for a wide range of technical shortening and streamlining our supply chain,” Jan textiles applications: complying with the VDMA’s Blue CompeCarlson added. tence sustainability initiative. About Autoliv

The Eco Applicator has been designed for 3 different situations : Autoliv Inc., the worldwide leader in automotive safety 1. To apply a liquid/coating to one side of the fabric. systems, develops and manufactures automotive safety systems for all major automotive manufactur- 2. To apply a liquid to both sides of the fabric. NCM-JULY 2013 62

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES 3. To apply a liquid to one side of a fabric and a different liquid to the other side. According to Monforts, the Eco-applicator range is suitable for felt finishes, coated materials and medical textiles and applications include nano coating, water repellence, softeners, flame retardency and insect repellence. When used in clothing applications, the soft coating process can for example, apply a soil or water repellent finish to one side of the fabric and softener or water absorption finish to the other side of the fabric. Monforts says the new process can also eliminate the need for a conventional padder, applying the liquid/coating via a roller. A twin-roller is used for double-sided applications. “Compared with a padder operation, the initial moisture content of 60% is reduced to 40% using the Monforts soft coating process; ensuring a reduction in drying times and reduced energy costs,” the company says. Monforts has recently strengthened its commitment to technical textiles with the appointment of a new Business Development Manager to help expand its product portfolio for this growth market. Jürgen Hanel a specialist in textile coating was formerly Senior Sales Manager at Coatema Coating Machinery and was previously responsible for developing the textile coating department at DyStar Textilfarben in Frankfurt. “I’m a textile person through and through and looking forward to the challenge,” explained Hanel on his appointment. “Technical textiles have a specific demand profile during the finishing process. For example, they react strongly to moisture or differences in temperature. We are developing new techniques tailored specifically to technical textiles,” he added. “The market for technical textiles is steadily growing. We see further potential here because of its high demand,” explains Monforts Klaus Heinrichs. “I am convinced that with

From long run, mass production to mode exclusives in any variety of woven, knits or technical fabrics, finishing remains a key aspect of the production process. Leading manufacturer of finishing and continuous dyeing ranges, A. MonfortsTextimaschinen has introduced a wide range of products to further enhance finishing techniques and to provide the solution to lower energy costs. Jürgen Hanel as an industry insider, Monforts can also set trends in the field of technical textiles.” With technical textiles being used more widely in a number of areas, fields of application of interest to Monforts include fire protection (for example, glass fibre fabrics with intumescent coatings), protective work clothing such as foundry protective clothing or protection against chemicals and special textiles for the automotive industry. Monforts also offers a modified stenter for technical textile applications which is proven in the coating of airbags. Montex 8000 stenter was exhibited at Techtextil 2013 which is the latest Twin Therm chamber stenter, designed with a number of features and options that are particularly suited for nonwoven and technical textiles applications. These include a heat recovery module incorporating a fully automatic cleaning system for its integrated heat recovery system; new rotating disc type ‘fluff-sieves’ and a vacuum system for efficient cleaning; and two parallel integrated exhaust ducts in each chamber. A new heat recovery module ‘Eco booster HRC’ with a fully automatic cleaning system is introduced, replacing the earlier modules, manually cleaned, tubes system. Featuring a ‘honeycombed’ design the new system cleans itself fully automatically during machine operation and ensures continuous uninterrupted high availability. Designed for special coating processes and, technical and non-wovens applications, a new Twin Therm system allows different finishing temperatures in both the upper and lower nozzle systems. This is ideal for applications such as automobile carpets where different temperatures are required on both sides of the product. Especially for technical textiles, a new parallel, integrated, twin exhaust channel arrangement is available also for alternate chamber arrangements to offer a staggered ‘counter type’ operation. NCM-JULY 2013 63

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES cal legislation in countries like China, we can invite the less progressive companies of the industry to join us and to put our success on a more stable basis.

“Greenpeace Worldwide Challenges Textile Brands to Produce Clean Clothing” For about 20 years, Manfred Santen has worked on and published about hazardous substances and researches of toxic substances. Santen is also a member of the Association of Ecological research institute (AgÖF). Since 2009, Santen has been a chemistry expert at Greenpeace with the focus on pesticides in sustainable agriculture, chemical and food safety. Since 2011, he has been the contact person of greenpeace germany for the Detox campaign, lead by Greenpeace international. What were the results of Greenpeace’s last textile report of “Toxic Yarns”? In the report “Toxic Yarns”, Greenpeace has examined pollutants on more than 140 articles from 20 fast fashion brands, such as Zara and Levi’s. The results showed that all the leading fashion producers use hazardous chemicals like “nonylphenol” and/or plasticizers in their production. In another test, we have scrutinized outdoor items. The harmful perfluorinated chemicals from the impregnation and membranes are a major problem. In the “Detox” campaign, Greenpeace worlwide asks textile brands to produce “clean” clothes. Many manufacturers however let the production slide in China, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Mexico – sometimes with chemicals which were already forbidden in the EU or in the USA for a long time. As a result, in countries like China and Mexico, more than 60 percent of the rivers are polluted. What was the reaction of these companies, which have been criticized by the “detox” campaign of greenpeace? No one would be glad when it was made publicly criticised. For that rea-

H&M was the world’s largest organic cotton buyer in 2012

Manfred Santen son, Greenpeace rarely get welcomed with open arms. But the companies also know that it is not possible to continue like this. It may sound rare: after a startup time, companies are often grateful that we have given the impetus for a better production. In response to the Detox campaign and global consumer protests, there are up to now 12 leaders from the sportswear and fast-fashion sector that have banned the use of hazardous chemicals.

Alexander von Aufschnaiter is Sustainability Manager at H&M Germany. Lately, H&M has been increasingly involved in the sustainability discussion and in 2011 and 2012 H&M was the world’s largest buyer of organic cotton. In relation to the self-commitment “reduce, reuse, recycle”, H&M started the initiative “Garment Collecting at H&M” in cooperation with I:collect. Why does H&M invest in organic cotton? By 2020, we only want to use cotton

Is confrontation the way forward to sustainable success? Greenpeace is an organization for campaigns. Due to long experience, we know that sometimes it needs external pressure for companies to leave their comfort zone and move to new directions. Success is possible however only if many people follow our protest. The Detox campaign demonstrates across the globe, that many people prefer toxic-free clothes. Pollution of their rivers by the textile companies is a price that people in China and Mexico would not like to pay for anymore. The brands are responsible for the production. Therefore, they must take the first step. Greenpeace is important, but so is the political work: only with a good chemiNCM-JULY 2013 64

Alexander von Aufschnaiter

“As a company, we always want to save natural resources”

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES from more sustainable sources. For this, organic cotton plays an important role here, in addition to recycled cotton and Better Cotton. The transition to organic cotton requires farmers to receive training and to get long term contracts. However, since H&M does not buy cotton directly, we are involved in initiatives such as “Textile Exchange”, and work together with the institute for Market Ecology and Control Union. What exactly is (the meaning) behind the approach of “reduce, reuse, recycle”? As a company, we always want to save natural resources, which is one of our self-commitments to sustainability. This does not only make sense for the environment, but is also a good business decision. This is true for the raw materials we use, such as cotton and water; but we also want to encourage our customers, this is why we are going to start a worldwide initiative to collect clothes in many stores in 2013. Is H&M turning “Green”? Sustainability is an integral part of all our business operations at H&M, and we are happy to see that we are getting rewarded several times. H&M has been supervising its production with production offices all around the world since the mid 80s. sustainability is increasingly important to customers. With our recurring conscious collection, that also includes organic cotton, organic hemp, organic linen and fabrics from recycled PET bottles, we would like to inspire more and more customers for sustainable fashion. Already now, we can see an increasing demand for more sustainable raw materials.

Lenzing Given OEKOTEX® Sustainability Award in the Category Product Innovation The independent testing and certification system OEKO-TEX® presented its Sustainability Award in the category

Product Innovation to fiber manufacturer Lenzing within the context of a special gala award ceremony. News of the prize reached Lenzing AG shortly after its anniversary celebrations held under the motto “75 Years of Innovation”, and once again emphasized the company’s innovative strength. The seven-person jury, comprising representatives of the OEKO-TEX® community, NGOs, industry and research as well as associations and the trade press, justified its selection by stating: “Lenzing AG is a model example of how to achieve and expand global leadership in innovation and technology through a consistent focus on innovation and close cooperation with research institutes and universities. For many years Lenzing has shown outstanding achievements in the field of pioneering and innovative fibers which have repeatedly set standards worldwide with regard to comfort, functionality and processing modifications. The best example for this is the development of the lyocell fiber TENCEL®, which has become firmly established in the meantime due to its ideal properties and functions as well as its wide range of applications for the textile & nonwovens industries.” “In the field of environmental technology, the company also manages to impressively convey its company philosophy with a focus on sustainability. To achieve this, all manufacturing processes were independently developed by Lenzing AG and are subject to continuous optimization”, the jury continued in specifying the reasons for giving the first OEKO-TEX® prize in this category to Lenzing. Andreas Dorner, who has global responsibility for textile marketing at Lenzing, and Wolfgang Plasser, General Manager & Vice President Nonwoven Fibers, accepted the prize on the company’s behalf. “This award is particularly valuable, not least because the OEKO-TEX® community has a detailed insight into what is happening in the industry, and can accuNCM-JULY 2013 65

rately assess which companies deserve the awards thanks to long and intensive cooperation with some 10,000 companies”, says Andreas Dorner. “Certifications also play a key role in the nonwovens segment. Quality is of the utmost importance in many of our end applications, especially disposable products with direct skin contact, such as hygienic or baby products, but also in the medical segment", adds Wolfgang Plasser. “The customers along the nonwovens processing chain demand individual, innovative solutions which can be disposed of after use with a good conscience. The OEKO-TEX® Sustainability Award once again underlines the fact that Lenzing in its role as a raw material supplier is the ideal partner from the very beginning.” “Lenzing manufactures products from the raw material wood in an environmentally responsible manner. Lenzing has set new standards for the entire cellulose fiber industry on the basis of sustainable process improvements and its success in largely closing chemical cycles as well as the use of state-of-the-art wastewater and exhaust air purification processes”, explains Lenzing’s Chief Executive Officer Peter Untersperger. “I am happy that these achievements have been honored by OEKO-TEX® at precisely the same time as our 75th anniversary. I believe that all our employees who have collaborated on this can be proud of this award”. The OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 is an independent testing and certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production (e.g. fibers, yarns, fabrics and ready-made articles including accessories). The Sustainability Award was granted in the five categories of Environmental Management, Quality Management, Social Responsibility, Safety Management and Product Innovation. All of Lenzing’s fibers feature the OEKO-TEX® Standard 100.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Second Texprocess recorded a 16 percent increase in visitors With a visitor increase of 16 percent in 2013, Texprocess closed on June 13 2013.. "With this excellent result, we see our concept of Texprocess fully confirms the parallelism with the Techtextil and focus on advanced technologies meet the market needs," concluded Detlef Braun, Managing Director of Messe Frankfurt. Leading international trade fair over 12,100 trade visitors from 98 countries (2011: 10.4631 trade visitors from 86 countries), and in addition, more than 8,100 of the concurrent Techtextil (2011: 6,448 trade visitors from Techtextil). Thus, the number of Techtextilfa chbesucher increased significantly, which gathered information on the Texprocess offer. The strong growth in visitor numbers distributed equally to both domestic and abroad. More than half of all trade visitors came from outside Germany to Texprocess. To the top visitor countries besides Germany were among Italy, Turkey, Romania, Great Britain, France, the Russian Federation, Poland, the Czech Republic, Switzerland and Portugal. 330 exhibitors from 38 countries presented their innovations at Texprocess, which took place in a double with Techtextil, International Trade Fair for Technical Textiles and Nonwovens from 11 to 13 June. Overall, the trade fair duo registered 1,652 exhibitors and 40,000 international visitors. Elgar Straub, Managing Director of VDMA Garment and Leather Technology said: "Especially, there was a strong growth in visitors from abroad and the professional competence of the visitors was quite high. Infact, many orders were surprisingly written at the fair. Texprocess continued to expand its position as the leading international trade fair for processing textile and flexible materials. The Texprocess and Techtextil offered our manufacturers a unique platform to address both the

IT solutions Source - Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH / Petra Welzel

Cutting room Source - Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH / Jens Liebchen apparel industry and the processors of technical textiles." The comprehensive range of products offered at the Texprocess ranged from design and cutting to sewing, joining, embroidery and knitting to finishing, textile printing, logistics and IT. With the procurement platform Source It. Texprocess was also an overview of key sourcing countries and the overall product offerings were of high quality leading to very high visitor satisfaction level of 94 percent as per the organizNCM-JULY 2013 66

ers and promoters of the event. Francesco Marchi, Director of the European textile umbrella organization â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Euratexâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; said : "Texprocess 2013 confirmed the concept of Messe Frankfurt and proved a successful event despite the overall difficult economic situation the industry faces worldwide. Our members showed great interest in the innovations, in the fields of design, cutting, CAD/CAM, IT and quality control. Texprocess and Source It were of great help for our members."

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES The overall trend was for innovations in terms of IT process acceleration, automation, increased process safety and resource efficiency. Manufacturers presented high-tech solutions supported by intelligent control and documentation systems and advanced sensors as well as their user-friendly design. Many of the innovations showed high energy and material savings. Increased integration of software applications in production processes was a Megatrend at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Texprocess. The IT marketplace IT@Texprocess in Hall 4.0 had exhibitors of new and advanced IT solutions such as cloud applications and integrated IT systems for effective real-time communication required by fashion labels with the manufacturing facilities around the world. These IT solutions simplify and provide access to data from anywhere. Sophisticated 3-D simulations, which also can, for example, adjust life-like movements in real-time, were exhibited for those who need to use virtual fashion design tools.

Leather Cutting Machine Source - Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH / Jens Liebchen

Presentations were made by the manufacturing countries to highlight their complete product range during Source It. These presentations were very well received by visitors and exhibitors both. According to Dhyana van der Pols, External consultant from CBI (Centre for the Promotion of Imports from Developing Countries, The Netherlands) : CBI was visited by well-known fashion labels including Hugo Boss, Escada and Tommy Hilfiger, and the average duration of each visit was 10 to 15 minutes surprisingly longer than on other trade fairs. It seem the buyers this year were trying the "reverse sourcing".. Lo oking for the right machine suppliers first and then find out which companies and/or countries had these machines installed in order to proceed further for making further sourcing inquiry. This appeared to be a new way of sourcing behavior and a new way to find the right manufa cturing operation.â&#x20AC;?

Textile finishing Source - Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH / Petra Welzel

"CBI represented on the Source It the countries of Egypt, Bolivia, Pakistan, NCM-JULY 2013 67

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Peru, Tunisia and Vietnam. Besides, the countries of Bulgaria, Egypt, Hong Kong, Kenya, Lithuania, Poland, Portugal, R omania, Senegal and Tunisia made their presentations.” At the Source It, a clear focus was seen on Eastern Europe and North Africa. From a production perspective the apparel industry is engaged in a process of reorientation. As an increasing local demand is apparent in China, many fashion labels are looking closely at other countries as potential production locations. South East Asia is one option, Eastern Europe is another. Indeed Eastern European countries are benefiting from fashion labels looking to bring parts of production back closer to the European end consumer market. These shorter transport distances are of particular interest therefore, when only smaller batch sizes are produced, there are high demands in terms of technical design or orders need to be produced quickly. Last but not least locating production near to the final customer contributes to sustainability due to the lower energy costs for transport. Texprocess Forum, held during Texprocess, saw top global speakers on the latest topics in the industry like sourcing, sustainability, new technologies, quality management, logistics and social standards. Overall 1556 trade visitors attended the Forum’s proIndustrial pressing equipment gram. The Texprocess Forum programme was compiled by Dialog Textile Apparel Association (Dialog Textil Bekleidung – DTB) in cooperation with the GermanFashion association, EURATEX – European Apparel and Textile Confederation – and the International Apparel Federation (IAF). Susanne Pass, DTB Director General was impressed by the results: “We received many positive comments from visitors before the fair was even over. They praised not only the quality of the lectures and speakers but also said how pleased they were with the fair as a whole. The speakers were also delighted with the large number of visitors to all Forum lectures. We are very happy with the way this event has developed within the framework of the fair.”

Susanne Paß, Director of the Dialog Textile Apparel association

The next Texprocess will be held in Frankfurt am Main from 4 to 7 May 2015 concurrently with Techtextil (5 to 7 May). The next Texprocess Americas is scheduled to take place alongside Techtextil North America in Atlanta from 13 to 15 May 2014. NCM-JULY 2013 68

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Technical textiles with high-tech processing at Texprocess 2013 in Frankfurt Carbon fibres in aeroplane construction, wind turbines with glass fibre rotor blades, integral sensors in protective clothing, state of the art automotive airbags – technical textiles are routinely used in many sectors and the latest technology is used to cut, sew and join them. However technical textiles place specific requirements on machines and plant for sewing and joining. There is an ever greater range of machines for heavy fabrics and technical textiles that are complicated to sew; these include machines with specific clearances between foot and bed, specially shaped cylinder arms and long postbed machines. This high-tech plant is able to sew everything from lightweight to very heavy materials, from automotive seats and seat-belts to aeroplane interiors and special filters. Even embroidery machines can be found to an increasing extent in the markets for technical textiles. They are used, for example, to integrate sensors, LEDs or solar cells. Systems for the seamless documentation of safety relevant seams, such as in airbags for example, also play an important role. Seams in technical textiles are frequently glued or welded. A pre-condition for it being possible to weld fabric components together is the presence of a thermoplastic material, either in the fabric itself, such as in synthetic materials, or by means of a ribbon between the two layers of fabric that is placed in the seamed edge for bonding as is necessary for natural fibres. At Texprocess, a plethora of sewing and apparel technologies for technical textiles were on displayed by various exhibitors. Profiles of some of the major exhibitors in this sector are presented below :

Exhibitors : Sewing and Apparel Technologies for Technical Textiles 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20.

AlfaPeople GmbH, Germany A.M.P. Pisani S.r.l., Italy Brother Internationale Industrie-maschinen GmbH Konrad Busche GmbH & Co. KG Dürkopp Adler AG Duledo Sp. z o.o. Eastman Machine Company eurolaser GmbH Expert Systemtechnik GmbH Fischer Automation GmbH Habraken Machines BV Hoogs Cutting Systems GmbH & Co. KG Krass + Wissing GmbH Textile Bänder Pfaff Industriesysteme und Maschinen AG Hans-Joachim Schneider GmbH Schönenberger Systeme GmbH Stiftung Oeko-Tex GmbH E. Stutznäcker GmbH & Co. KG Veit GmbH Vomatex GmbH Bügelunterlagen

AlfaPeople GmbH Goebenstr. 3-7, 32052 Herford (Germany) www.alfapeople.com/germany AlfaPeople is one of the largest Microsoft partners as well as one of the leading Microsoft CRM ISV’s (Independent Software Vendors) and provides Microsoft-based solutions for enterprise resource management (ERP) and customer relationship management (CRM). With more than 280 highly qualified employees in over 11 countries we are focused on delivering standard and customer specific, integrated Microsoft business solution that is supported worldwide. AlfaPeople helps companies to succeed in the market. The general improvement of the technical processes in your company, customer management or inventory management, increase of sales or increasing customer satisfaction: With AlfaPeople and Microsoft products there are solutions available that will help you to reach these goals. Keeping pace with continuously changing markets is for most companies is a major challenge. AlfaPeople specifically supports businesses of all NCM-JULY 2013 69

industries - from industrially manufactured operations to sales oriented companies and service providers.With the solutions Microsoft Dynamics AX, Microsoft Dynamics CRM and xRM are powerful tools available to optimize sustainable the inventory management and the customer management. By the services of AlfaPeople in consulting, implementation customized solution for your company to improve your value no matter what industry you operate. The key to success are information’s. Together with the AlfaPeople you implement a software system that enables to provide the right information without wasting time – so thatyou are successful, to benefit market opportunities, to coordinate and evaluate suppliers and acquire new customers. The outstanding achievements of AlfaPeople and the established Microsoft products are the engine of your business success. A perfect combination for your business. AlfaPeople is international, operates independently and is Europe's largest CRM - reseller. Behind our expertise are people, who understand your needs and know exactly what to do, to make you successful.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES A.M.P. Pisani S.r.l. Via Ungaretti 6/8 27024 Cilavegna (PV) - Italy www.amppisani.com

P/84 Molding Machine For Seamless Bra Cups

AMP Pisani was established in 1946. For nearly seven decades, AMP Pisani has been designing and manufacturing quality machinery for apparel and textile industries as well as for roll slitting applications and customized projects. AMP Pisaniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s headquarter and manufacturing facility is located in the city of Cilavegna, at 50 km from Milan city centre - 40 km from Milan Malpensa International Airport. AMP Pisani has a skilled team of mechanics, electricians and software engineers who are able to design and manufacture customized units. About 25.000 machines have been commissioned so far.

The machine P/84 from A.M.P. Pisani S.r.l. is a unit specifically designed for molding seamless bra and it can produce one complete bra every cycle.

AMP Pisani offer a vast product range that includes : -

Bra molding equipments for molding cups in fabric and foam. We can supply any type of mold accordingly to the specifications of the customer.

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Robotic systems for trimming foam bra cups.

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Automatic systems for cutting rectangles of foam or other material from a roll.

Features : 1. The m/c consists one upper molding head where it is possible to put two male molds plus & one female countermold on the lower part of the unit. 2. The operator positions the seamless tubular on four adjustable shafts in front of the lower female molds then he pushes two buttons to start the molding cycle and the upper molds move downwards to do the molding operation.

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Automatic and manual roll slitters for any application.

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Automatic and manual winding machines.

3. The upper molds (without electric resistances) are assembled on a support plate with heating resistances and thermocouples for temperature control. The distance between the upper molds is adjustable.

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Bias machinery to obtain a roll of fabric with warp and weft at 45 degrees (or different angles of bias).

4. The depth of the upper male molds in the lower mold is adjustable with two precision knobs and the approaching speed of the upper molds is pneumatically adjustable.

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Complete systems for converting in bias SISAL and heavy cotton fabric for polishing disk buffs

5. The lower female molds, differently from the upper molds, is equipped with heating resistances and thermocouples and it is assembled on a mold support. Two plugs connect the mold to the electric box of the m/c.

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Automatic and manual collarette cutting machines (rib cutting or bias cutting)

6. A plate coated with silicon foam is located on the lower female mold.

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High speed bandkinfe

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Pressing and folding machines for ribbons and waistband

7. All setting of temperature and times are adjustable with digital timers and proportional thermoregulators. Available on requests the device P84/ PIA Heated upper plate kit with a pneumatic system to control the clamping pressure of the material and with a temperature control 8. Machine equipped with PLC.coated plates NCM-JULY 2013 70

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES -

Perforating machines for non woven ribbons

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Hot cut machines

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Complementary machines for cutting room and automatic equipments for technical applications are also made.

RTC02 – Robot cutter for molded bra cups in foam from AMP Pisani

Brother Internationale Industriemaschinen GmbH Düsseldorfer Str. 7-9 46446 Emmerich am Rhein Germany www.brother-ism.com Brother is a Japanese company, whose profile comprises a diversity of electronic, industrial as well as domestic appliances and is one of the world's leaders in the Production of Industrial Sewing Machines, Printers andMultiFunctions-Centre machines. For sales and promotion, Brother has subsidiaries all over the world. The industrial sewing machine tradition looks back upon 100 years experience and represents a considerable percentage of Brother's turnover. Brother headquarters for industrial products like sewing machines and the garment printer, in Europe, Africa and Middle Eastis located in Emmerich - Germany, consisting of textile & sales specialists, as well as warehouse logistics staff. Customer deliveries are processed daily under our "Quick-Response-Philosophy", while the Emmerich location is the Spare Parts/Consumables Distribution Centre for above mentioned area. According to the overall Brother Group Philosophy, the Company follows RoHS II, any EU directive, ISO 14001, Brother's own 5R concept (Reuse, Reform, Recycle, Refuse, Reduce) and ÖkoTex certified inks/ consumables to grant high quality standards. Product groups : -

Automatic embroidery machines (single-head)

Fully automatic system for trimming molded foam cups. Already running in leading apparel factories for normal daily production Advantages : 1. Very high accuracy of positioning of the cutter 2. 3-Dimensional cut always perpendicular to the material 3. Accuracy on cut of the cups: +/- 0,5 mm. 4. Accuracy depends on shrinkage of foam material after cut, can be different depending on the material. 5. No need of skilled operators 6. Productivity: Up to 4 pairs/min (up to 8 cups/min) -

Automatic button-sewing machines.

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Automatic buttonhole machines.

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Automatic tacking machines (mechanically or CNC program controlled).

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Belt-making and buttoncovering machines

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Sewing drives and motors

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Sewing machine attachments and feed auxiliaries

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Sewing machine drives & controls

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Sewing machines (lockstitch)

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Sewing units, mechanically or CNC program controlled

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Digital direct to garments printing (DTG) NCM-JULY 2013 71

Konrad Busche GmbH & Co. KG Industriestr. 70 70565 Stuttgart - Vaihingen (Germany) www.duerkopp-adler.com As specialist for sewing technology, Busche have been an acknowledged partner for the leading brand in the industry and trade studios for more than 50 years now. Busche offers workplaces for intelligent solutions - stateof-the-art automatic sewing machines and sewing stations, simplify sewing processes and thus also increase productivity. But Busche has also always attached great important to service and support. Expert consulting, exemplary customers service, extensive accessories and a large stock of spare parts guarantee troublefree production workflows.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Product range of Konrad Busche GmbH & Co. KG -

Automatic button-sewing machines

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Automatic buttonhole machines

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Automatic tacking machines (mechanically or CNC program controlled)

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Blindstitching and felling machines

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Quilting and mattress machinery

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Sewing machine attachments and feed auxiliaries; Sewing machine spare parts; Sewing machines (chain stitch); Sewing machines (lockstitch); Sewing machines (overedge-, cover- and other multithread stitch types); Sewing units, mechanically or CNC program controlled

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Welding presses and equipment (laser, ultrasound, hot wedge, hot air)

Dürkopp Adler AG Potsdamer Str. 190 33719 Bielefeld, Germany www.duerkopp-adler.com

HE-800B Electronic Direct Drive Lockstitch Button Holer

Since its foundation in 1860, Dürkopp Adler AG has become one of the world`s technology leaders in the field of industrial sewing equipment.

Upgraded electronic button hole - It enhances the sewing quality with a new hook, preventing thread breakages and insufficient thread tightening Equipped with the direct drive system, it provides comfortable sewing & high energy saving.

With effect from July 1, 2005, the Chinese SGSB Group Co., Ltd., Shanghai (SGSB Group) took over the majority shares of Dürkopp Adler AG from FAG Kugelfischer GmbH, Schweinfurt.

1. Beautiful sewing finishes 3. Environment-conscious

Today, sewing machines from Dürkopp Adler are used in a wide range of applications. The most important of them are : Men’s wear - Lady's wear - JeansAutomotive - Home upholstery Shoes. Special applications - Parts, Accessoires & Services.

BE-438F - Electronic direct drive lockstitch button sewer : Ideal thread take-up for each, light and heavy materials. In addition to the recognized the stability of thread tightening for heavy materials, the best suitable thread take-up is newly added, which can be used from light materials to medium materials. It greatly improves sewing quality for light materials. Newly added thread trimming function which cuts threads after the upper shaft is stopped can steady the thread end length. Improved nipper decreases thread castoff and bird nest at the sewing start.

The group operates with a worldwide service and distribution network of 11 subsidiaries and more than 80 authorized dealers. The objective of the company is to perfect the automation of production procedures, guaranteeing at the same time a maximum degree of flexible applications. Our products : Automatic button-sew-

2. Operator-friendly 4. High Productivity

Less sewing troubles with a new hook, enhancing the sewing finishes. Comfortable sewing and high energy saving have been realized with a new original motor and control box developed in-house.

NCM-JULY 2013 72

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES ing machines; Automatic buttonhole machines; Automatic tacking machines (mechanically or CNC program controlled); Sewing machine drives, controls & spare parts; Sewing machines (chain stitch & lockstitch); Sewing machines (overedge-, cover- and other multi-thread stitch types); Sewing units, mechanically or CNC program controlled; Automatic buttonhole machines.

Dürkopp Adler AG

Duledo Sp. z o.o. Piotrkowska 6 C 95-070 Aleksandrow/L, Poland www.duledo.pl Duledo Sp z O. O. is Europe’s largest independent importer and distributor of auxiliaries for CAD/CAM-systems that are in use by industrial productions for designing and cutting all kind of materials, like f.i. textiles, composites etc., Auxiliaries as plotter- and separationpapers, vacuüm-foils and plotter/pattern-cartons. Duledo company provides solutions in the use of special yarns like: aramides, non-flammable yarns, hybrid yarns, carbon fiber yarns, fiberglass yarns, blends:polyester/steel yarn, polyester/ wool, aramide filament yarn, aramide spunyarn fiber, high-vis fiber. Offers solutions using special yarns for protective clothing for lifevests, fire-fighters, welders, uniforms service-outfits for industryworkers - engine casings and seat belts. For the process of manufacturing filters, fire barriers, insulating materials used for manufacturing aircraft turbines and engines. Products manufactured using our yarns are in conformity with requirements of the European Union directives 89/686/EEC, 89/656/EEC and with all the key standards contained therein, which are required with relation to product certification process for the Polish and European markets: EN340, EN366, EN531, EN532, EN533, EN469, EN470-1, EN471, EN1149-3, EN13034, ENV50354. Our products : Cutting room accessories; Pattern & template making; Adhesive tapes, films, foils, nets & yarns.

The sewing station 550-5-5-2 : Optimized waistband stitching The sewing station 550-5-5-2 has been optimized for stitching waistbands of trousers and skirts in the seam shadow. The integrated basic sewing machine 274 ensures an excellent material feed and perfectly smooth seams in all materials. The handling and guiding of the material is made easy by means of a great variety of equipment, e.g. the special stand with ergonomically shaped table and rest for the right arm as well as the sewing foot with edge guide. Thus, you achieve a constantly high seam quality due to easy handling. Performance: approx. 500-550 fly pieces in 480 min. Eastman Machine Company 779 Washington St. 14203 Buffalo (United States) www.eastmancuts.com

customer network from its Buffalo, New York headquarters. Contact us to learn more about how Eastman cutting solutions will improve your bottom line!

Eastman offers multiple cutting and spreading solutions. Eastman specializes in customized options that meet the needs of a variety of different applications. Eastman will design a fullservice system that will be versatile, reliable, robust and easy to use. So now you'll only be limited by your imagination and not your capabilities!

eurolaser GmbH Borsigstraße 18 21339 Lüneburg, Germany www.eurolaser.com

With over 125 years of experience in the cutting room, Eastman is the premier international manufacturer of manually-operated cutting machines; fully automated, computerized cutting systems, material spreading equipment and design software.

eurolaser designs, develops and produces innovative laser systems for material machining in industry and craftwork. With a multiplicity of potential uses, the Lüneburg-based company has established a position showing the way ahead for new and established laser applications in many sectors of industry and belongs to the world’s leading manufacturers of automatic laser cutting machines.

Our products/services : Manual Cutting Machines Automated Cutting Systems (CNC) Spreading & Feeding Systems Design & Nesting Software.

Efficient systems : A completely modular concept underpins our laser systems so that a flexible approach to our customers‘needs can always be taken.

Eastman is proud to serve a global

Anybody who wants to remain com-

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INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES petitive in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s markets is switching from conventional production processes to superior laser technology. Economical production and additional growth guarantee success for many users. It is far from unusual for them to consider purchasing another laser system after a short time which reflects a high degree of customer satisfaction.

Laser Cutter XL-3200

In order to establish which laser system is best suited to their applications, potential and existing customers are encouraged by eurolaser to carry out comprehensive material tests. The experts in the use of lasers from our Application Center have experience of over 10,000 successful prototypes. Our products : Cutting machines and equipment; Cutting room accessories; Dies, die-cutting machines; Fabric roll magazines and hoists; Fabric spreading machines and equipment; Manual and automatic cutting machines; Pattern and template making; Shears, cutting and separating equipment; Marking equipment, marking materials. Equipment and systems for the finishing of textile surfaces. Expert Systemtechnik GmbH BrĂśnninghauser Str. 35 E 33729 Bielefeld, Germany www.expertsystemtechnik.de Expert Systemtechnik has conceived all working steps required for cutting in its system solutions in such a way that they can be performed independently of every other processing step : scanning of leather hides, compilation of orders for nesting, nesting itself and finally cutting all take place at separate work stations. This system configuration offers a number of advantages : Each working step can be performed separately and at a different time from the other working steps. Processes which require more time in order to achieve an optimum result, such as nesting, can be performed taking as much time as needed, without any negative effects on subsequent processing. Technical or manual delays at

The CO2 laser machine XL-3200 with a processing area of 2,270 x 3,200 mm (89.4" x 126") is the largest model of the XL series. The huge dimensions allow the processing of big-size acrylic plates. The high acceleration of the optical head releasing the laser beam assures best efficiency even on this table size. Type of laser: CO2 laser Product specifications : Processing area: 2,270 mm x 3,200 mm Laser power: 60 to 600 watt Optional complements

:

Optical Recognition System Mechanical Machining Raster Engraving Unit

one work station do not lead to a delay or even standstill at other stations. As a multi-technology provider, Expert Systemtechnik has the ideal cutting solution for all flexible, non-metallic materials on hand. Depending on the nature of the material and quantity to be processed, you can choose between cutting with : a pure waterjet, CNC cutter and punching technology. Our technically high-quality machines are characterized by their long service life and the reliability of their constantly high-precision cutting results. Expert Waterjet cutting systems Expert waterjet cutting systems work quickly and very precisely. Expert Systemtechnik configures additional fittings individually according to customer requirements. NCM-JULY 2013 74

The Expert waterjet cutting systems are characterized by the fact that they operate with extreme precision and cutting speed without changing the properties of the material to be cut. Numerous advantages compared to mechanical cutting, such as minimal water consumption, low tool wear and the extremely hardwearing cutting base translate into minimal operating costs which make this technology cost effective and environmentally friendly. Varied applications : Leather, plastic, cardboard, rubber and a host of technical materials can be cut using waterjet technology, whereby it is irrelevant whether dealing with sheets and/ or hides or rolls, such as technical textiles. Repeatability lies at a constant +/- 0.2 mm.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Powerful equipment : Competence over many years in the field of cutting with pure waterjet technology is reflected in ergonomic machines featuring compact, high-quality design and extreme ease of operation. Expert waterjet cutting systems consist of a high-quality aluminium frame, a quality pump whose output depends on the material and diameter of the cutting nozzle, and a powerful cutting head with a selection of various cutting nozzles. Expert Systemtechnik offers cutting machines in various configurations: the machines can be equipped with one or more cutting bridges and with one or more waterjet nozzles. The size of the cutting table can be adjusted, depending on the size of the materials to be processed. An optional integrated pick-up aid allows for the efficient clearing away of patterns within a short space of time, especially when cutting leather. Expert cutting systems can easily be expanded by adding a second cutting table, a further cutting bridge or several cutting nozzles. In this way, we can meet your increased production requirements without the need for new installations. Why cut with waterjet technology?

Expert Systemtechnik GmbH Waterjet cutting systems for precise cutting 4. Dry end product despite the use of water 5. Burr-free cutting edges 6. Cold-cutting procedure, therefore no negative surface changes and no heat development 7. No sticking of the cutting tool, as there is no contact with the material 8. Low tool wear thanks to less frequent tool changes 9. Minimal water consumption

The advantages of waterjet cutting are high speed and precision, low tool wear and a high degree of environmental friendliness. For over 15 years now, Expert has specialized in cutting with pure waterjet technology since this cutting technique offers numerous processing advantages over mechanical cutting: 1. Short or even no aligning times since the material to be cut can be fixed easily 2. High precision and therefore a clean end product, making reworking unnecessary 3. Cutting at high speed saves time and production costs

10. Environmentally friendly procedure since no plastic sheets are used for fixing and there are no emissions of vapours, dust or abrasive media How does cutting with waterjet technology work? The highly energized bundled jet of water is pressed out of a precious stone nozzle with a diameter of between 0.1 and 0.25 mm at a pressure of up to 3,800 bar, adjustable according to the material. In conventional leather cutting, for example, the fine jet of water has a diameter of 0.1 mm â&#x20AC;&#x201C; finer than a human hair. This means you do not even have to take this distance into NCM-JULY 2013 75

account when positioning the patterns since it is too small. In this way the proportion of waste material is reduced compared to the total surface area of the material. Thanks to the bundling of the jet of water and the cutting speed, hardly any moisture penetrates the material. Constant precision during the entire cutting process Cutting accuracy remains constant during the entire cutting process as this is a non-contact cutting method. The high pressure and the fineness of the nozzle mean the material is cut into directly from above. There is therefore no mechanical displacement. A special cutting surface of steel honeycombs ensures that the leather cannot move after laying down. In addition, adhesion of the leather to the table can be increased by the use of water-soluble glue. The cutting speed lies between 70 and 120 m per minute. The thickness of material which can be cut using waterjet technology is determined by the nature of material.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Fischer Automation GmbH Talstraße 3a 95189 Köditz, Germany www.fischer-automation.com

Fischer Automation GmbH : Five-Needle-Flatseamer for processing of technical textiles

Fischer Automation is a German family-owned business in the second generation and was founded in 1952. Our key businesses are automation solutions for sewing and textile branch, industrial sewing machines and automatic sewing lines, cutting technology for textiles, automation of packaging and labelling processes for textiles and both garment and technical embroidery. We also deliver special machines for processing of medical and technical textiles, home textiles and garment - equipped with customized modifications and automation technology. Customized solutions are developed and produced - from the first idea to the complete machine - completely inhouse in our production facility in Germany. For industrial sewing machines, we are manufacturer independent so that we can always choose the best machine for you, modify it due to your needs and deliver it worldwide. With machines from Fischer Automation all textiles are being sewing automatically right - no matter how thick, heavy or elastic the material is. Our machines are used, for example, for processing of : cleaning textiles, medical textiles, tubular textiles, belts, car seats and automotive interior, bulletproof vests etc. Our products : Strip-cutting machines and equipment; Automatic embroidery machines (multi-head &single-head); Labelling and numbering machines; Feeding, positioning and stacking systems; Contract manufacturing; Automatic tacking machines (mechanically or CNC program controlled); Sewing machines (chain stitch/lockstitch); Sewing machines (overedge-, coverand other multi-thread stitch types); Sewing units, mechanically or CNC program controlled; Welding presses and equipment (laser, ultrasound, hot wedge, hot air).

The processing of technical textiles faces special challenges. Fischer Five-Needle-Seven-Thread-Flatseamer is a special sewing machines for high quality demands in technical textiles, such as filters or heavy fabric for technical applications. The machine is based on our own development of a wide modification of a standard flatseamer. Instead of four needles, we use five needles to increase the seam width. At least two needles are within the fabric on each side, so you can achieve a higher seam strength and lower seam leakage. The shown machine is also modified to work with special sewing threads, for example glass threads for high temperature applications of the sewn product. With the dual differential system for fabric feeding you get an excellent seam at any time. The Five-Needle-Flatseamer is available as buttseaming version and as one or both side fabric cutting version. Technical specifications : -

8 mm seam width (instead of 6 mm) 7 threads on 5 needles stitch length: 1.6 - 2.5 mm dual differential system (option: pneumatic dual differential system)

Habraken Machines BV Dick Flemmingstraat 15 5161 CA Sprang-Capelle Netherlands www.habraken-machines.com Habraken Machines is a Dutch company specialized in Industrial Sewing Applications. Habraken Machines is the exclusive importer for the Benelux countries for high quality brand names NCM-JULY 2013 76

such as: Dürkopp Adler, Mitsubishi, Pegasus and ZSK. Our customers can be found all over the world in the automotive, furniture, leather goods, and mattress industries. In addition, we are receiving increasing numbers of inquiries from companies in the field of technical textile processing. Habraken Machines has its own R&D department where customers special

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES demands are being transferred in solutions which we sell under our brand name: HM. For example: Habraken Machines is one of the few manufactures of a airbag seam documentation system (HM814D) which we started to develop roughly 16 years ago and which has been a success ever since! Our latest high runner is the HM820 which is a Triple transport design stitch machine which is being used to create fancy stitch patterns in upholstery seams.

HM814-888

We are based in Sprang-Capelle, in the Netherlands with a branch office in Humbeek, Belgium and in Hong Kong Our products : Sewing machines (lockstitch); Sewing units, mechanically or CNC program controlled; Special tools for the upholstery industry; Special upholstery machines for car upholstery; Additional sewing station devices; Automatic upholstery machines; Sewing machine attachments and feed auxiliaries Hoogs Cutting Systems GmbH & Co. KG Hohe Straße 89 53119 Bonn, Germany www.hoogs.de A cut above the rest – since 1928 In 1928, engineer Emil Hoogland founded the company with his first patent, for magnetically driven hand shears, which created a sensation at that time at the Leipzig Trade Fair. Based on this best seller and the development of other new technologies, the company grew steadily, and in 1951 was able to acquire its first corporate premises in Bonn–Buschdorf. Following the untimely death of the company founder in 1952, Maria Hoogland continued on the life work of her husband and was supported from 1965 by her nephew Detlef Rickert, who took over as sole director after her death in 1986. Since 2006, the company has been operating under the name “Hoogs Cutting Systems GmbH & Co. KG”- a name change required not least of all due to

HM814D: Side airbag cover workstation from Habraken Machines BV The development of the HM814 is based on more than a decade of experience in the field of SAB (side airbag) workstations. The result is a highly flexible system that is easy to adapt to meet continuously changing demands. The HM814 guarantees accurate production, accurate evaluation and accurate documentation of your products. An in-seat airbag places critical demands on the sewing of seat covers. The seam must be durable throughout a normal lifetime and yet tear in the event of airbag deployment. The HM814 monitors all the critical aspects involved during SAB sewing to ensure safe and reliable action in response to both of these contradictory demands. Advanced monitoring devices allow the HM814 workstation to tag and record all relevant data on approved products. This vital information will serve as the source for the product tracking database. At the same time, sewing on the HM814-867/887/888 has been kept much the same as working on a standard DA867/887/888, resulting in a low learning curve for the operator. The powerful DA887 and 888 offers an effective feeding system (wheel-feed, needle-feed and roller-driven presser) guaranteeing excellent transport even when processing difficult materials like vinyl or laminated leather parts. Goals • • • • •

Minimum interference from monitoring system to avoid distracting the operator Records only unambiguous and relevant data Flexible implementation of customer requirements Open architecture to enable integration of third party components Most important: Keep It Simple Features

Features • Sewing operation is similar to the standard DA867/888 • Hardware protection against unauthorized sewing machine settings • Dedicated PLC for reliable sewing process monitoring • Industrial Panel PC for documentation & interaction in MS Windows environment • Full network support for product traceability • Configurable sewing control software package • Post-bed model(DA888) • Optional edge trimmer(DA888)

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INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES the growing number of international customers. In 2008 the company moved to its more modern premises at Hohe Strasse 89, Bonn– Tannenbusch, where it employs a staff of 25. Our product range for the textile processing comprises : Electric and pneumatic shears; Round knife machines; Straight knife machines; Band knife machines; Laying-out and cut-off devices; Automatic cut-off machines; Automatic measuring and cut-off devices; Rewinding, measuring and cutting devices; Unrolling devices/cradles/ trolleys; Perforating & Creasing machines; Movable cable suspensions; Cutting room tables & accessories. Krass + Wissing GmbH Textile Bänder Webereistr. 1 48565 Steinfurt, Germany www.krasspluswissing.de Quality bindings since 1958 We have been supplying binding in an efficient, competent and flexible manner since 1958. •

bindings from our own stock in over 25 qualities and over 1000 colours.

bindings cut to order from our customers’ materials.

bindings made from special material developed for our customers.

logistical solutions and technical support concerning bindings.

Our bindings are used in : • • • • •

home textile products & clothes automotive products leisure products medical products technical solutions, etc.

Our products : Belts, insulation tapes, belt webbing. Pfaff Industriesysteme und Maschinen AG Hans-Geiger-Str. 12 67661 Kaiserslautern, Germany www.pfaff-industrial.com Excellent product know-how and continuous innovation – that is what the

Hoogs laying-out and cut-off devices – technically perfect, simple and accurate in use Specifications : Max. speed : 0.5 to 10 m/min. Optional up to : 20 m/min. Seam width : 1.0 to 10.0 mm Ultrasonic frequency : 35kHz High wearing comfort of welded materials. Distance of the edge to of the weld-seam is always equal to 100%

PFAFF 8312 CS dual ultrasonic welding machine Ultrasonic welding machine as a double wheel solution - flatbed-version = simultaneous cutting, edge sealing and welding in one operation

The 8312 CS dual features two anvil wheels (one for cutting and sealing and the other one to realize the second weld seam) on one post, but on separate shafts. With this patented solution the load may be individually adjusted – the two wheels are still running in sync. This is an absolute unique selling point (USP) for this technology. The machine may be adjusted better and more specifically to the material at hand and increases the process reliability when welding and cutting to weld seams. The minimum distance between weld seam an cutting is around 1 mm. The key features are listed below : 1. Cutting and edge sealing or welding of technical textiles. 2. Workpiece fixed between sonotrode & anvil wheel is welded continuously under pressure. 3. Two differentiable drives for sonotrode and anvil roll. 4. Welding procedure: 35 kHz, 400 W ultrasonic generator with rotating 7mm steel sonotrode or 10 mm titan sonotrode. 5. Touch screen (simple handling with pictograms): programming of operations and complete work cycles. 6. Process reliability by monitoring of welding parameters(constant performance). 7. Fully hardened steel sonotrode. 8. No compressed air requiredProduct specifications.

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INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES PFAFF (Industrial) trademark has been known for in Kaiserslautern since 1862. As an innovation leader, PFAFF Industrial produces exclusive high-end machines for the apparel, shoe, living and car upholstery industries as well as for the technical textiles sector. The most modern sewing and welding solutions with flexible procedure design are developed and manufactured as customer-oriented solutions – Made in Germany. In the sewing range, the product portfolio encompasses high-speed sewing machines, standard and specialized machines, automatic stitching units and sewing-mechanization equipment. For more than 50 years, PFAFF Industrial has been the innovation leader in welding technology, which is a bonding process without a needle and thread, and possesses a comprehensive product range for this bonding technology with hot-air, hot wedge and ultrasound welding machines. Ultrasound welding, especially, is an effective alternative to sewing. New application areas for this technology are continuously opening up, particularly in the apparel industry. Already entire pieces of clothing are being welded in the case of functional clothing, outdoor clothing, under-garments and bras. From sewing machine manufacturer to solutions provider for processing textile materials- In recent years PFAFF Industrial has developed into the premier address for customized solutions for processing textile materials. PFAFF Industrial, located in Kaiserslautern, possesses unique know-how in the industry. “In dialog with the customer” individual production plants have been planned and realized for various industries. PFAFF Industrial is in a position to develop reliable, rationalising and quality-enhancing concepts together with the customer, particularly in highpriced countries. A strong service team supports the customer on site and ensures the long service life of the installed products. PFAFF’s business activity covers : Ladies’ and men’s wear; Shirts and

Attracting quality - just in time! The objective is to give the garment the final touch before it is presented at point of sale. Timing is critical. Tempt the spoiled customer to buy. Finished garments need to cool off and should not be pressed to avoid crease. Schönenberger trolleys allow spacing; garments can be transported on single or trained trolleys. Trapeze bars for lower hanging facilitate handling and provide clear view over the finishing area. blouses; Children’s clothing; Leather clothing; Jeans; Work and protective clothing; Underwear; Home textiles; Footwear, small leather goods; Home upholstery; Sport, leisure wear, outdoor; Filter technology, medical technology; Technical textiles; Automotive Hans-Joachim Schneider GmbH Ludwig-Erhard-Ring 23 15827 Dahlewitz, Germany www.schneider-berlin.de We are a worldwide wholesaler of the industry "Dry cleaning, laundry and clothing" as well as a leading producer of various wire hangers for dry cleaners. We also offer : Equipment for packaging of laundry packs in foil; Fusing machines and equipment; Marking equipment, marking materials; Equipment and systems for the finishing of textile surfaces; Ironing stations; Product labelling machines etc. Schönenberger Systeme GmbH Justus-von-Liebig-Str. 12 86899 Landsberg am Lech, Germany www.schoenenberger.de “Think along New Lines” – is the slogan of the company, world wide NCM-JULY 2013 79

specialised in the development and realisation of future orientated material flow and logistic systems. Applications for Textile & Apparel Based on a longtime experience and continuous process of enhancements, Schönenberger today is state of the art in modular transporting and material management systems. All started in 1977 in the apparel industry where Schönenberger continuously developed applications for various areas by designing custom-made trolleys on the demands of its valued customers. The basic idea was the same: unlimited railing from centrally-suspended rail servicing all kinds of work stations with application specific trolleys. Ergonomic work station design, linking work stations and areas, manual, semi-automatic and automatic, modular set ups lead to intralogistic systems for the entire factory. What works for apparel can also work for furniture or bicycles . We gave it a try - and succeeded from the start. Founded 1977 under the name Veit

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Transpo GmbH the export oriented Schönenberger Systeme GmbH together with its partners is active today in worldwide more than 30 countries.

MAMMUT MPS-250 Mattress-Hemming-Machine from E. Stutznäcker GmbH & Co. KG

With its sources in garment manufacturing and warehousing the range of applications rapidly has expanded to retail of hanging and flat goods. Projects in various sectors of textile and none textile industries with great variations within the individual projects have been performed throughout the years. Stiftung Oeko-Tex GmbH Kaiserstr. 39 60329 Frankfurt am Main, Germany www.oeko-tex.com Certification authorities & Providers of Textile testing facilities OEKO-TEX® is an independent certification system for textile products and production facilities. The International OEKO-TEX® Association is an alliance of 15 well-known textile, research and test institutes in Europe and Japan, with branches and information centres in more than 65 countries worldwide. OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 focuses on textiles tested for harmful substances. Additionally, OEKO-TEX® STeP certifies environmentally friendly and socially responsible production facilities along the textile value added chain. E. Stutznäcker GmbH & Co. KG Max-Planck-Strasse 3 50858 Köln, Germany www.mammut.de E.Stutznäcker GmbH & Co.KG was founded in 1872 and since 141 years we are spezialized in building high-performance quilting machines for the bedding industry arround the globe. Due to its realibility and perfection of our sewing technology our single-and multineedle quilters are used in countless manufacturing shops worldwide. A high-performance quilting machine from Stutznäcker works for decades. Our know-how and experience are the ideal combination for developing fu-

By using the new automatic mattress hemming machine MAMMUT MPS 250 we offer you the possibility to automate the cutting as well as the hemming of mattress panels. Unique are the performance features of 5 panels/ min., up to 80mm thick foam or the integrated edge cutting device for corners. MPS 250 offers the possibility to automate the cutting as well as the hemming of mattress panels. Technical Data : MPS 250 max. material width 1.000mm- 2.5000mm sewing speed up to 5 panels/min

ture-orientated solutions, particularly for such companies where the continous production and the quality of the product has first priority.

Key features of Mammut quilting m/c. 1. trend-setting sewing technology for high-strength & ultra-light materials 2. robust design-long operational life

As the follow up to the legendary MAMMUT Long arm quilter, the SingleNeedle Quilting Machine MAMMUT P2S/P1S combines the consistent reliability and productivity with the highest degree of flexibility. Capable of producing high-quality quilts, mattress panels, comforter, as well as upholstery with very high filling weight and densities. The machine is characterized by simple handling, high precision as well as an extra large bottom thread spool. When high precision of sewing patterns as well as heavy and high density materials are needed for the production of mattress panels the SingleNeedle Quilting Machine MAMMUT P2A/P1A is the first choice. All advantages of a Single-Needle Quilting Machine combined with an automatically infeed of material guarantee highest flexibility with consistent efficiency. NCM-JULY 2013 80

3. high operational durability and low wear-and-tear 4. accurate seams profiles at constant high speed 5. reliable and efficient quilting of both thick and thin fabrics 6. maximum precision even with thin needles 7. extra-large bottom-thread spools (lock-stitch-quilters) Whether quilts, bedspreads or sleeping bags, the MAMMUT VM7 sets the benchmark. Due to the speed, reliability as well as low maintenance costs, the MAMMUT VM7 is with out doubt the most efficient Double Lockstitch Multi-Needle Quilter worldwide. Extralarge bottom-thread capacity, freely adjustable sewing-head units as well as laterally liftable needles (closed patterns, border seams) contribute to it.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Veit GmbH Justus-von-Liebig-Str. 15 86899 Landsberg am Lech, Germany www.veit-group.com

Veit GmbH VEIT 8430 Multiform-/ Blousefinisher

For over 50 years, the requirements and the problems of our customers world-wide have been our most important challenge. For decades, world-famous brands in the German and the international garment industry have had confidence in the innovative, high-quality products and services of the VEITGroup.

Finishing ladies’ blouses is known to be sometimes difficult. This has been the challenge for the new VEIT 8430. Slim line blouses with many fashion details have up to now been difficult to handle. Adaption time and necessary modifications jeopardize the use of an automatic system. The target was to minimize the mechanical components.

Our experts consult with you as a partner to assist you in finding the best solution for your project no matter if you are planning to use individual machines or if you need a complete production line. Prompt delivery and professional installation of your machines and plants goes hand in hand with premium training with which we enable your staff to achieve the highest possible productivity. Worldwide 24 hr Service Hotline Our service technicians worldwide are available around the clock so that your production works with as little disruption as possible. Our product range includes industrial ironing tables, steam irons, steam boilers, pressing equipment for jackets and shirts, fusing machines and Tunnel Finishers. Our highly innovative machines of the new eMotion series give energy saving of at least 25%-40%. Vomatex GmbH Bügelunterlagen Hinterm Sielhof 27a 28277 Bremen, Germany www.vomatex.de VOMATEX is specialised in supplying high German quality press paddings and coverings for industrial clothing presses and ironing tables. Big and important clothing factories and machine manufacturers worldwide trust in our heat and pressure resistant materials and in our 45 year experience. Moreover our products are suitable for many other applications like textile

A performance of up to 1200 blouses/8h with one operator can be realized. Advantages 1. Economical price/performance ratio. High performance (up to 80 pcs/h) 2. Powerful but energy saving blower motor with manually adjustable air quantity for all fabrics 3. Two Blouse Finishers can be operated in tandem by a single operator in a very small area. The productive use of operator's waiting times increases productivity by approx. 50 %. 4. The shoulder width is adjustable from 320–520 mm / 12.6- 20.5 inch 360° rotatable: for easy loading and best view on the garment 5. Adjustable sleeve clamps allow an easy adjustment of the correct sleeve position 6. Automatically adjusting hem tensioners allow the finish of waisted blouses 7. Flaps in the front and back hold the blouse in the correct position 8. Manual vertical stretching and stretching of the hem is possible bonding, fusing, thermo transfer printing and bending in industries like shoe, glass, aluminium, furniture, advertising and many others. We are exporting our wide range of superior articles worldwide, especially to all countries that are producing clothing for the international markets. The majority of our articles is produced in Germany, some in countries of the European Union, and only few special items by leading manufacturers in other parts of the world. They comply with the latest regulations to save the environment and the health of users and consumers. VOMATEX – Worldwide leading supplier for high quality heat and pressure resistant materials mainly used for industrial ironing machines. The product range includes : VOMAPOR silicone/foam; REHAU RAU-SIK foamed silicone; VERDEX Super-Latexfoam; Multi-Stretch; Needlefelts of Aramid and Polyester; Metal and Polyester wire screen mesh; Heat resistant fabrics; PTFE coated fabrics and foils; PTFE coated transport belts and accessories. NCM-JULY 2013 81

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES SETeMa launches EWash Introduction of a new high speed washing module 5 years after the introduction of the successful Porta-Wash line SETeMa announces a complete new developed module: the E-Wash, a professional open width washing machine. Looking at customer’s requirements SETeMa has seen a growing market demand for faster washing equipment consistent with the increasing speed of the digital textile printers. The new developed E-Wash achieves a higher output and washes more efficient than the already very economical Porta-Wash. As a consequence of the higher washing speed and the demand for a fastness wash up to 90°C the E-Wash is developed for a minor heat loss and a high effective washing process. With the experiences of the Porta-Wash range, the E-Wash has become a particularly compact washer with all components integrated. The washing speed of an E-Wash module is almost quadrupled compared to the largest Porta-Wash module. Due to the tighter integration of essential components the overall efficiency is further increased. The E-Wash continues the modular setup of the SETeMa machines in which two or more E-Wash modules can be combined for an even higher performance, but also a combination with Porta-Wash and Porta-Pad modules is possible. As one of the first producers of finishing equipment for the digital market, SETeMa produces all of its products in three cloth widths: 1.85 m, 2.50 m and 3.40 m. SETeMa (Scientifically Engineered Tex-

VOMATEX GmbH Bügelunterlagen Heat Resistant Fabrics VOMATEX supplies a wide range of heat resistant high quality fabrics to the clothing industry and other branches worldwide. Most of VOMATEX textiles are commonly used as final covers on ironing tables and presses. In the beginning of industrial ironing the machines were furnished with several cotton and wool fabrics. But due to its need for frequent changing and low heat resistance there is only one cotton blossom cover left in our range of products. It is mainly used on ironing tables at ironing bleeding clothing which requires frequent changes of the textile cover. Cotton is almost totally being replaced by textiles made of artificial fibres like Polyester (e.g. Trevira®) & Polyamid (e.g. Nylon) which offer better physical properties & an excellent value for money. Since the demand for high temperature pressing & the need to extend the replacement interval became more relevant, factories are turning to even more heat resistant & durable textiles made of V-Max Aramid (e.g. Nomex®, Conex®) & PTFE (e.g. Teflon®). The standard final cover for ironing velvet fabrics is the VOMAT bristle cover M III which is also available with a back of V-Max Aramid-needlefelt called VOMAT bristle cover M 300 NO making it more heat resistant and easy to fix on upper press plates. The needle like Polyester bristles prevent from shine and give the desired rough finish to the clothing. The previous version VOMAT bristle cover M II has been invented by VOMATEX in 1972 and replaced the expensive metal needle plates. For shaped presses we recommend to use Nylon-Stretch as elastic final cover or the new heat resistant V-Max Aramid-Stretch. Frames on presses especially on double leg trouser presses are furnished with Multi-Stretch. There are different qualities of Multi-Stretch available. If you do not know which type you require please send us a small sample and we will be glad to submit you an offer. For fusing presses and other machines having sticky glue residue we offer silicone or PTFE coated fabrics which are glue repellent. If you are looking for a heat resistant insulation fabric for your machines please take a look at our Thermo glass fabric with Aluminium coating. Our big selection of fabrics contains also wire screen mesh which are used on ironing tables and presses to distribute the steam and improve the vacuum suction. NCM-JULY 2013 82

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES tile Machines) based in The Netherlands was founded in 2002. Its main objective is design and development of textile machinery based on the scientific knowledge of the underlying processes. SETeMa is thus able to design machines that perform better. Modularity : Due to the modular design of our machines we are able to supply a wide variety of solutions for in-line Coating, Fixation, Washing and Finishing. Production lines can even be upgraded afterwards. This enables custom solutions with minimal investments and adaptation to future needs. Energy : All SETeMa products are designed to use minimal energy and supply a high efficiency, either through steam and water recycling, heat exchanger in waste streams and of course good isolation. Our complete product portfolio is available in 1.85, 2.5 and 3.4 meter cloth widths to accomodate the total spectrum of textile printers. Our product solutions include : 1. Textile steamer (inkjet and conventional) : Portafix Universal, ESTeaM and B-STeaM. 2. Inkjet washer : Porta-Wash and EWash 3. Fabric pretreatment & finishing : Porta-Pad. 4. Cloth drying : Drum-Dryer, I-Fix and Portafix Universal. 5. Dry heat fixation : Drum-Dryer, IFix, Portafix Universal. India Contact details : Mimaki Kanphor India Pvt Ltd. 232, Phase IV, Udyog Vihar Gurgaon, Haryana Phone: +91-124-4711-005 www.mimakitexsoco.com Negi Sign Systems & Supplies Co. 301 Shivam Chambers, Next to Sahara, S.V. Road, Goregaon West, Mumbai 400062 Phone: +91-22-61566000 www.negisign.com

The E-Wash is a modular roll-to-roll counterflow washing machine consisting of 3 washing sections suitable for various cloth- and fibre types. The separate washing sections use recycled and fresh soft water. Standard spraying nozzles, or optional high impact nozzles, are pressurised by circulation pumps, supplying the mechanical energy to increase the washing effect. The water counterflow can be regulated independently between the sections. To obtain a high energy efficiency the E-Wash components are tight integrated: Each section is equipped with a counter-flow heat exchanger between cold fresh and hot waste water. Air of the vacuum systems is recirculated. The walls and covers are thermally isolated. The vacuum system in each of the three washing sections is ideal for the removal of polluted water containing the excess of dyestuff and coatings from the cloth and it largely prevents polluted water being dragged by the cloth into the next washing section. To further enhance the washing effect the cloth is sprayed with clean soft water prior to the vacuum slit. The build-in vacuum system can achieve moisture contents as low as 30% for synthetics and 60% for natural fibres. The maintenance-free chains drive all rollers thus a tensionless fabric transport is guaranteed. With two separate driven and controlled sections, fabric lengthening during washing can be compensated. A fabric bar can be attached to the chain which greatly simplifies the feed-in handling of cloth into the E-Wash at the production start. With a cloth content of 9 m and the ability of a hot wash, the E-Wash is suited for high speeds and a demanding fastness wash up to 90째C. The integrated PLC enables the control of the washing speed, water temperature and the vacuum per cloth type in each module. Each washing module can be equipped with an automatic dispensing system for chemical dosage. The E-Wash comes with an user friendly touch-screen interface. Two or more E-Wash modules can be combined for an even higher performance, but also a combination with Porta-Wash and Porta-Pad modules is possible. Combined with the Portafix Universal or the Drum-Dryer the EWash forms a complete washing-drying line. In combination with the Portafix Universal the line can also be used for dyestuff fixation thereby reducing the investment costs. The E-Wash can also be integrated and synchronised with a third party dryer or stenter. The E-Wash is available in a 1.85, 2.50 and 3.40 meter width and is made of 304 and 316 stainless steel. NCM-JULY 2013 83

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES

India-Iran Rupee Payment Mechanism Iran is a US$ 3 billion market of Textiles & Clothing (T&C) out of which import of MMF textile in 2011 was US$ 1.5 billion. India's share in Iranian MMF market is around 16% amounting to US$ 250 million which leaves ample scope for increase in market share. The INTEXPO exhibition in Iran offered members unique opportunity to showcase their latest range of textile products, meet leading buyers and negotiate profitable business deals. A major hindrance to increasing economic engagement with Iran has been sanctions imposed by the US and EU, which block payments in International currencies. To give a fillip to trade, India and Iran have worked out a rupee trade mechanism for mutual trade. IndiaIran have a bilateral trade of approx. USD 15 bn out of which Iran has a positive trade balance of USD 8bn due to India's crude oil imports. This positive trade balance in INR gives opportunity to Iran to import more non-oil products from India. The payment mechanism is expected to facilitate larger exports including textile products from Indian to Iran. Modalities of Rupee Payment Mechanism Nodal Bank :

through Parsian Bank, but UCO Bank has VOSTRO account with all five Iranian banks.

Exchange Rate :

Features : General conditions : 1. Port of Loading should be an Indian Port 2. Port of Destination should be an Iranian Port 3. Goods to be exported should be permissible under DGFT regulations vide NOTIFICATION No. 42 (RE-2010)/2009-2014 dtd. 31/03/ 2011. 4. Payment mechanism does not support Merchanting Trade, Non-Oil imports from Iran & Private remittances. Payment Modes : 1. L/Cs of UCO Bank customers or other banks : UCO bank is just a gateway for Iran payment mechanism. Exporter's bank will have to route payment through UCO Bank. Documents must be clean and discrepant documents will not be negotiated. 2. Advance Payment Option : Also available now under INR-payment mechanism. 3. Collection mode : Also available for clean documents.

Indian Government has worked out rupee trade mechanism for Indian exporters to be reimbursed through UCO Bank (Nodal Bank). UCO Bank has account relationships with five Iranian banks namely :

ECGC Cover :

• • • • •

Exporter's advising/negotiating bank only has to arrange certification in the Format of UCO Bank which will provided to exporter's bank on request.

Parsian Bank Pasargad Bank E.N. Bank Saman Bank of Iran Karafarin Bank

Major chunk of payments are routed

dicative only). Actual to be confirmed by exporters.

Available for Iran for post shipment credit. UCO bank has Iran cover limit of Rs. 600 Crs. UCO Bank Format :

UCO Bank Charges : 0.1% to maximum INR 40,000/- (inNCM-JULY 2013 84

Reimbursement of the amount to Indian exporter will be in INR as the L/ Cs are being advised in INR. Indian exporters should agree to INR price after factoring USD /INR movement and also financial cost due to unforeseen delays in receipt of advance payment or L/c from Iran. Important - Iranian importers have to obtain import licences & INR allocation which can take 4-5 weeks. Exporters are advised to initiate procurement for order/shipments after receipt of advance payment or L/C. Designated Branches of UCO Bank for Iran Payments : • FCC Ahmedabad • FCC, New Delhi • MCB, Nehru Place, New Delhi • FCC, Mumbai • FCC, Kolkata • FCC Chennai • M.G. Road, Secunderabad Branch • Mid Corporate Branch, Bangalore • Sector 17-B Chandigarh • MG Rd Cochin, Kerala • Pimpri Branch, Pune • Mid Corporate Branch, Ludhiana • Mid Corporate Branch, Surat • Mid Corporate Branch, Vadodara • C L Amritsar • Indore, New Palasia Contact details of advisor are given below : Mr. U.N. Mitra (Advisor) UCO Bank Phone: 033-4455 8013 Mobile: +9163895884 Email advisor.unmitra@ucobank.co.in

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Clariant at Techtextil 2013 - Effects that perform chemistry that cares Clariant, a world leader in specialty chemicals, meets the performance priorities of technical textiles with advanced solutions, so as to ensure such textiles are always fully fit for function. At Techtextil 2013, Clariant presented “Effects that perform and chemistry that cares” in three key focus areas – Repellence & Release; Flame Retardancy; and Stability & Resistance. Repellency and Release In response to increasing concerns about the use of certain chemicals in the production of textiles, Clariant is developing new solutions which are allowing textile producers to adopt more sustainable operations and processes. Next generation C6-based fluorochemicals: Nuva® N Nuva N C6based products, first introduced in 2006, support the gradual switch away from traditional long-chain fluorotelomer products which, as an unintended manufacturing by-product, may contain PFOA (perfluorooctanoic acid) at trace levels. Designed to achieve state-of-the-art stain management properties, Nuva N is extremely easy to handle in processing, imparting long-lasting soil repellency and release effects, while being nonsensitive in respect of its compatibility to other finishing chemicals. Along with improved sewability and no impact on the breathability of the fabric, the agent has a positive effect on the abrasion resistance and tear strength demanded of many materials in the technical textiles field. Clariant is continuing to expand the Nuva range as well as increasing production capacity. Nuva 1811, Nuva N2114 and Nuva N2155 all meet the bluesign®1 criteria.

New fluorine-free water repellency s o l u t i o n : Arkophob® FFR Meanwhile, entirely fluorine-free chemistry and long-lasting water repellency – two benefits that have been previously unattainable in a single solution – come together in Arkophob FFR. This technology is Repellency and release. C6 and fluorine-free solutions. an efficient alter- Nuva® N & Arkophob® FFR. (Photo: Clariant) native to conventional fluorocarbonbased repellency products, and its carefully-selected active ingredients and their special formulation allow a durable and even film formation on the surface of the fabric. Arkophob FFR has been extensively tested by Clariant experts in respect of its water repellency, in addition to its wash permanency and the softness or ‘hand’ of the resulting fabrics. In spray tests on 100% cotton twill fabric, for example, it clearly outperforms other fluorine-free products in terms of water repellence, and its performance is very close to C6 fluorochemicals. It meets the bluesign criteria and, when correctly used, also meets the OekoTex®2 standard. Flame Retardancy Firefighters, the military, and others working in extreme environments and weather, require performance that protects – not just against the elements, but against hazards including fire. Furthermore, requirements in areas such as home textile and construction are getting more stringent and require high attention during product development. Those sectors therefore welcome the reassurance provided by technologies such as Clariant’s high performance Pekoflam® flame retardants. Until quite recently, the common chemistries for fire-proofing man-made fabrics were based on organic halogens. NCM-JULY 2013 85

Fire retardancy. Halogen free* solutions. Pekoflam® . (Photo: Clariant)

* below limits of detection.

Significantly, the development of Pekoflam began back in 1997 when the debate about the potentially harmful effects of halogen-based chemistry to both human health and the environment was only just beginning. This gave Clariant a clear advance with

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES its halogen-free* Pekoflam range, which is primarily based on phosphorous chemistry as a backbone. In the development of synergistic additives to achieve broad application properties comparable to existing halogen-based products, chemical know-how proved as important as the deeper understanding of flame retardant physics and related thermodynamics. The now-established Pekoflam range is consequently ideally suited to helping customers to face today’s ecological challenges and fulfill ever stricter safety regulations – whatever the application. New innovations for ever more sustainable fire retardant solutions Pekoflam STC and Pekoflam HFC are new coating additives displaying high efficiency and an improved ecological profile when compared to nitrogen and/ or phosphorous based commodity chemicals. Stability and Resistance Clariant’s polymer dispersions are highly valued by technical textile finishers, whether in coating, spraying, foaming, lamination or impregnation. The tailor-made solutions for customerspecific requirements allow range from soft to hard, from elastic to rigid, from hydrophilic to hydrophobic and from impermeable to breathable. Crosslinking is used to reinforce the dimensional web created by the polymer, under specific conditions of temperature and acidic catalysis, to provide a range of benefits. In its constant effor ts to reduce formaldehyde, Clariant has especially focused on developing self-crosslinking products. Not only do they offer low formaldehyde solutions per se, but they also do not need to be used with melamine resins - which can be a source of free formaldehyde. From ultra-low formaldehyde to formaldehyde-free* solutions The

company’s Appretan® E range of ultra-low formaldehyde polymer dispersions has been formulated to provide flexibility, strength, stability and resistance in textile and nonwoven applications. In addition to a general improvement in properties, the key performance attributes Stability and resistance. Low formaldehyde or formalof this selfcross- dehyde free* solutions. Appretan® E & Appretan® NF. linking dispersion (Photo: Clariant) are its high resistance to water, sol- long-lasting customer relationships, vents, alcohol, and elevated tempera- backed by extensive customer service ture. For the production of textiles that and support, ensures we deliver prodare required to comply with very strict ucts that not only advance the perforeco-toxicological regulations, Clariant mance of technical textiles with meahas also developed Appretan NF form- surable benefits, but also assist proaldehyde-free* dispersions. ducers in adopting more sustainable operations and processes,” says Supplier of Choice Jochen Schmidt, Head of Technical Service EMEA, Textile Chemicals Clariant proves to be the system sup- Business Unit, Clariant. “These are key plier of choice for textile mills and non- elements for our customers’ success woven manufacturers in the area of in today’s challenging business envitechnical textiles as a result of its broad ronment.” portfolio of innovative materials and finishes, and its ability to deliver tai- About Clariant lor-made solutions for specific sectors. Clariant is a globally leading specialty Clariant’s solution-oriented approach to chemicals company, based in Muttenz business is also illustrated by its ca- near Basel/Switzerland. On December pacity to team up with the best pos- 31, 2012 the company employed a tosible partners, such as its own tal workforce of 21,202. In the finanMasterbatches business unit, or SANI- cial year 2012, Clariant recorded sales TIZED AG – who will both have ex- of CHF 6.038 billion for its continuing perts present at the booth. Clariant’s businesses. The company reports in masterbatch specialists will share their four business areas: Care Chemicals, expertise about adding color and func- Catalysis & Energy, Natural Retionality to carpets, clothing, automo- sources, Plastics & Coatings. tive interiors, nonwovens and artificial turf. Additive masterbatches, in par- As a global leader in specialty chemiticular, can be used to add durability, cals and dyes, Clariant's Textile ChemiUV stability or flame retardancy, whilst cals Business Unit is committed to esalways keeping in sight safety and en- tablishing long-lasting customer relavironmental compliance requirements. tionships based on our proven expertise, innovation and sustainability. “Clariant’s commitment to establishing www.textiles.clariant.com NCM-JULY 2013 86

NEWS BRIEFS Textiles Minister K S Rao Holds Interactive Session with Textile Industry Leaders of Karnataka

K S Rao Takes Charge as New Textiles Minister Dr. Kavuru Sambasiva Rao took over as the new Union Minister for Textiles on June 19.. Dr. Rao is a Lok Sabha member from Eluru constituency of Andhra Pradesh.

Explains Vision for Robust Growth of Textile Industry The Union Minister of Textiles Dr. K Sambasiva Rao held an interaction meeting in Bangalore with various textile industry associations namely, Spinning Mill Association, Powerloom Weavers’ Associations, Garment Manufacturers/Exporters’ Associations and Integrated textile parks. Leading entrepreneurs from all the segments of textile industry participated in the interaction meeting. Mr. A B Joshi, Textile Commissioner, Government of India welcomed the participants and gave introductory address briefing the current status of the entire gamut of textile industry of Karnataka and opened the interactive session. Dr. Rao explained his vision for the competitive growth of the textile industry for achieving targets of 12th plan as under: 1. Undertaking appropriate National Fibres Policy and New Textile Policy. 2. Achieving a dominant global standing for India in the manufacture and export of textiles and clothing. 3. Create one crore employment opportunities in the entire textile and clothing value chain. 4. Strategic and time-bound action for building up most modern manufacturing capacity of Indian textile industry so that not only the visionary target of export could be achieved but we may address the growing demands of domestic markets and satisfy the needs of domestic consumers, which is growing fast among other countries of the world.

Dr. Kavuru Sambasiva Rao takes over the charge of Union Minister for Textiles, in New Delhi on June 19, 2013. Speaking to mediapersons after taking charge as the new Textiles Minister, Dr. Rao expressed concern over the current account deficit (CAD) “which is affecting the nation’s economy.” He highlighted that the textiles sector “is one sector where we can increase the exports substantially.” “I am given to understand that our export in textiles is about USD 34 billion today, which I wish to make at least USD 50 billion by the year end. For this we have to encourage the skill development, and speak to all the industrialists in particular to find out what exactly are their problems, what type of support they require from the government and how they will be able to increase the exports. And that will solve the problem of CAD also and the country will be out of woes.” Dr. Rao also assured that the Ministry will do “everything possible to provide employment in a big way to poorer sections of the society, and increase the exports in a big way and do justice to the cotton growers as well as the handloom weavers.” Putting stress on the fact the skill development is paramount, Dr. Rao said that “when there are skills with the people of the country, the growth will go up, the production will go up, the cost of production will come down, and then we will be able to compete in the international market.” He wished to “encourage providing skills to all those people, preferably freely.” As per the MoT, Dr. Kavuru Sambasiva Rao was born on October 2, 1943 in Dosapadu, Distt. – Krishna, Andhra Pradesh. He holds B.E. degree from the Regional Engineering College, Warangal, Andhra Pradesh. He was first elected to 8th Lok Sabha in 1984 and was re-elected in 1989, 1998, 2004 and 2009 again to 9th, 12th, 14th and 15th Lok Sabha respectively. NCM-JULY 2013 87

NEWS BRIEFS Several issues concerning the textile industry including continuation of Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS), cotton availability and prices, problems of silk powerloom weavers, setting up of yarn bank and common facility centres in powerloom clusters, problem of labour shortage were raised by the industry. Each of issues was addressed by the Textiles Minister. Dr. Rao declared that the Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme will be continued and necessary orders will by the Ministry of Textiles shortly. He also informed that he has understood the need for yarn banks and common facility centres for powerloom clusters and the same will be examined by the Ministry of Textiles on priority basis. As regard to shortage of trained workforce, Dr. Rao assured that the matter shall be addressed in consultation with the State Government for providing the entrepreneurs necessary assistance for in-house training of manpower. Dr. Rao commended the contribution of garment industry of Karnataka in countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s precious foreign exchange earnings and for catering employment to large workforce, particularly social empowerment of women. Dr. Rao requested the entrepreneurs of Karnataka to diversify into the manufacture of technical textiles which has huge potential for growth. The Textiles Minister requested the industry to build brand equity for the Indian Textiles in the world market. He also informed that the Ministry of Textiles is implementing various developmental schemes for the growth of textile industry including Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS), Technology Mission of Technical Textiles, Group work shed scheme for powerloom weavers, Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks, Group Insurance Scheme for Powerloom Workers etc. and urged the textile industry to modernise the industry by availing the above schemes of the Ministry of Textile .

Textiles Minister K S Rao Held Interactive Session with Textile Industry Leaders of Karnataka. He explained his Vision for Robust Growth of the Textile Industry (Pics of his visit) NCM-JULY 2013 88

NEWS BRIEFS Textiles Minister K S Rao visits Chawki Rearing Centre in Karnataka The Union Minister of Textiles Dr. K Sambasiva Rao, also visited the Chawki Rearing Centre, in Ramanagara district of Karnataka. Dr. Rao evinced keen interest in various technologies adopted by the unit targeting higher production and productivity. He was immensely impressed about the practices being followed and service rendered by the centre for the socio-economic upliftment of the farmers to develop the sericulture industry. Dr. Rao also interacted with the personnel working at the unit and farmers about the income generation and involvement of young generation in the industry. He expressed happiness about younger persons taking up sericulture as a sustainable income generating avocation. Mr. Sadasiva, owner of the Chawki Rearing Centre explained the activities of CRC to Textiles Minister Dr. Rao, Mrs. Monica Garg, Joint Secretary (Silk), Ministry of Textiles, Mrs. Ishita Roy, Member Secretary, Central Silk Board, Bangalore and officers of Central Silk Board and Department of Sericulture, Karnataka. He explained that the CRC made a humble foray into the then not-sopopular enterprise of scientific commercial silkworm chawki rearing in the year 1994 when the average farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cocoon yield was hovering around 30 Kg. per 100 dfls with rampant crop losses of about 50%. Realising the importance of Chawki rearing concept for sustainable and increased cocoon productivity, the CRC is contributing in the supply of healthy chawki worms to the sericulture farmers by meticulously following the technologies covering egg handling, incubation, black boxing, brushing, maintenance optimal conditions of humidity and temperature, scientific rearing management upto II instar and appropriate transportation of chawki worms to the

Chawki Rearing Rearing of young age silkworms up to 2nd moult is called as chawki rearing. This stage of larvae requires ideal environmental conditions, tender mulberry leaves. Robust growth and development of chawki larvae make them resistant to diseases and more stress tolerant during later stages of development. Silkworm layings should be procured only from licensed seed preparers which are tested and certified as disease free layings (dfls). Under normal recommended cultivation practices of mulberry 250-300 dfls can be brushed per crop per acre. Silkworm layings have to be transported in egg carrying boxes, during cooler hours of the day from the grainages to the place of rearing. Transportation in egg transportation boxes avoids exposure of layings to extreme temperatures and humidity. During incubation period care should be taken to preserve the layings in a disease free environment, with high relative humidity of more than 80% and temperature of 2425oC. The embryo inside the eggs grows healthly utilizing the reserved food materials in the yolk and prepares to hatch on the 10th day of egg laying. It is important to maintain the ideal temperature, humidity and hygiene during incubation by following a suitable recommended technique. NCM-JULY 2013 89

NEWS BRIEFS farmers. The concerted efforts of the CRC made the unit as a ‘Role Model’ for other enterpreneurs. At present, the unit is brushing about 70 lakh dfls per year serving the needs of about 20,000 farmers and achieved an assured average cocoon yield of 65 Kg/ 100 dfls. Dr. Rao also paid a visit to the rearing of silkworms by shoot method by Mr. Ambareesh and appreciated his efforts for adopting the latest recommended technologies for achieving the increased productivity. New Minister of Textiles visits Central Silk Board (CSB)

The Minister isiting the Chawki Rearing Centre, in Ramanagara, Karnataka

Union Minister of Textiles Dr. Kavuru Sambasiva Rao visited Central Silk Board, Bangalore on 4th July 2013. He released "Anantha" a new high yielding mulberry variety, "FAQ Manual on Central Seed Act" and "Nemahari" a semi herbal nematicide. He also had interaction meet with statkeholders from sericulture and silk industry. Textiles Ministry to double sericulture farming area The Textile Ministry has set a target of 32,000 metric tonnes of raw silk production by doubling its farming area from the existing 1.81 lakh hectare in the country, said Union Textile Minister Dr Kavuru Sambasiva Rao.

Release of "Anantha" - new high yielding mulberry variety Interaction meet of stakeholders from sericulture and silk industry

Addressing a press conference at the Central Silk Board, Rao said the textile industry is the second major sector after agriculture in the country. But majority of the sericulturists are marginal farmers with one or two acres of land. “We want to double the farming area to increase the production and also assist people involved in the sector by providing auto-reeling machine,” said Rao. The minister further said that ever since he assumed office, he has been touring different places including Hyderabad, Mumbai, Coimbatore, NCM-JULY 2013 90

NEWS BRIEFS Surat, Jaipur, Varanasi and Jalandhar and met people in various sectors to understand their problems to improve the textile industry.

Govt. Reimburses losses to CCI on sale of cotton procured under MSP

Considering that many poor people are involved in handloom sector, the Union government is making a provision of Rs 1,000 crore to revive the industry. Through the facility, loans can be issued to buy raw material and machines at a nominal interest rate, said the minister. This would reduce workload and stress among the people dependent on the handloom sector.

The Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs, on June 28, approved reimbursement of losses amounting to Rs. 719.41 crore to the Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) on Minimum Support Price (MSP) operations in the cotton season 2012-13.

To check fluctuation of cotton prices that pushes industry into uncertainty, the minister said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;At least Rs 20,000 crore would be required to save the industry from such an uncertainty. However, the government is ready to extend at least Rs 800 crore to deal with fluctuation issue.â&#x20AC;?

The Government of India, under the Price Support System (PSS) for the cotton season 2012-13 fixed the MSP for Long Staple (LS) and Medium Staple (MS) varieties of raw cotton at Rs.3,900/- per quintal and Rs.3,600/ - per quintal respectively. This led to a hike in MSP price of 29 percent and 18 percent respectively over the previous year.

Remote sensing Vice-chairperson of the Central Silk Board, Monika S Garg, said the board would encourage production of Tussar, Eri, Muga and Mulberry Vanya varieties of silk. As the traditional areas of raw silk production have shrunk due to industrial activities particularly in and around the Bengaluru International Airport, the Silk Board is searching for non-traditional sectors with the help of Indian Space Research Organisation through the Remote Sensing Technology to encourage raw silk production.

CCI would be conducting domestic and export sales. The apportionment of these sales would be decided by an inter ministerial committee consisting of representatives of the Ministries of Agriculture, Commerce, Textiles and the Department of Revenue, to strike an appropriate balance between interests of domestic users and producers.

Cotton prices in Andhra Pradesh touched MSP prices in October 2012 and procurement under MSP operations commenced in the districts of Warangal, Guntur and Adilabad. The CCI procured 22.65 lakh bales of seed kapas under price stabilization operations from October 2012 to February 2013 at a total cost of Rs.5,807.95 crore. The CCI has successfully stabilized prices in Andhra Pradesh and avoided farmer distress with timely payments. Cotton prices then crossed MSP prices in March 2013 in Andhra Pradesh.

Union Minister of Textiles Dr. Kavuru Sambasiva Rao also visits Surat Announces Rs. 150 crore aid for powerloom industry Dr. Kavuru Sambasiva Rao, Union Minister of Textiles, alongwith Smt. Sunaina Tomar, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Textile Commissioner and Chairman, The Synthetic Rayon & Textiles Export Promotion Council (SRTEPC) visited one Textile park in

Minister of Textiles Dr. Kavuru Sambasiva Rao in a meeting in Surat the city developed under the Scheme for Integrated Textile Park (SITP) alongwith one modern synthetic processing house and one modern garmenting unit. The Minister while appreciating the efforts taken by the NCM-JULY 2013 91

entrepreneurs in surat to modernize their units, also suggested the entrepreneurs to take measures to have a quantum jump in exports. He also suggested for giving more emphasis on continuous training so that they

NEWS BRIEFS donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t face the problem of shortage of work force. In the afternoon, the Minister had an interaction meeting with all stake holders including office bearers of South Gujarat Chamber of Commerce (SGCCI), Processors Associations, Textile Machinery Manufacturing Association (TMMA), Powerloom Associations, Textile Research Associaion, Integrated Textile Park and SRTEPC etc., Leading entrepreneurs from all the segments of textile industry participated in the interaction meeting. Shri.A.B. Joshi, Textile Commissioner, Govt. of India welcomed the participants and gave introductory address briefing the current status of the entire gamut of synthetic textile industry in surat and opened the interactive session. Several issues concerning the synthetic textile industry including continuation of Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS), High Interest rate, Uniform tax regime, Anti dumping duty, more parks in surat, task force, council for textile parks, more fund for R&D, focused product scheme, more duty draw back, fabric exhibition, setting up of yarn bank and common facility centres in powerloom clusters, problem of labour shortage were raised by the industry. Each of the issues was addressed by the Minister of Textiles. He also informed that he has understood the need for yarn banks, common facility centres, duty draw back, task force, high interest rate, anti dumping, more parks, R&D etc., The Minister also stressed the need for skill upgradation in a big way and the same will be examined by the Ministry of Textiles on priority basis. Smt. Sunaina Tomar, Jt. Secretary, Ministry of Textiles appraised of the current status of the issues raised before the Minister and assured of positive approach of the Ministry of Textiles to clinch the matter in shortest possible time. The Minister said he is committed to help the industry to increase the production, exports

and upgradation of skill development. In his maiden visit to Surat, the new Union textile minister announced Rs 150 crore worth of scheme for upgrading the conventional powerloom machines in the city. The scheme is expected to directly benefit over 2.5 lakh powerloom machines, which fall under the category of 'plain looms'. The financial assistance under this scheme would help the weavers to upgrade their powerloom machines to semi-automatic looms. Announcing the scheme, the minister said : "As per the survey by the NCM-JULY 2013 92

textile commissioner's office, about 40 per cent of powerloom machines in the city fall under the category of plain looms. I have proposed Rs 150 crore worth of upgradation scheme for such powerlooms. This would help weavers to increase their production." When he was asked about his opinion on the need for increasing the export of yarn and the need to abolish anti-dumping duty, he said : "I firmly believe that the weaving industry should not suffer due to the export of yarn. But at the same time, anti-dumping duty cannot be removed overnight. I will take up this issue with the con-

NEWS BRIEFS cerned ministries at the Centre." The minister said there was an urgent need to create skilled manpower for the textile industry. The textile entrepreneurs should join hands with the textile commissioner's office and find ways and means to ease the situation. He said out of the total 57 integrated textile parks across the country, six are up and running in and around Surat. The ministry will consider giving more permissions for setting up textile parks in the city. Dr Rao was supposed to visit MANTRA (Man-made Textile Research Association) facility in the textile hub on Ring Road in the evening, but he cut short his visit as he was literally forced by the Congress leaders to meet the workers and leaders at the Congress karyalay at Nanpura. Many industry leaders, however, were seen very upset because of this. "Mantra is funded by the Central Government and it is the duty of the minister to visit the facility and know about the problems and issues", they felt.

Textiles Minister seeks banks' support to sort out textile sector issues 70,000 Weaver Credit Cards Issued Sanctioning Rs. 210 Crore Loan In order to ensure the availability of subsidised credit to handloom weavers, Union Textiles Minister Dr. K S Rao recently met heads of major banks. He was informed that around 70,000 weaver credit cards have been issued and loan of more than Rs. 210 crore has been sanctioned to handloom weavers. After the meeting Dr. Rao said: “I had a meeting with Chief Executive Officers of Nationalised Banks to review the progress of issuance of weaver’s credit card and to sensitise them to the credit needs of weavers.” He lauded the efforts being made by

"Gujarat Pollution Control Board warns industries using unauthorized fuel" Gujarat Pollution Control Board (GPCB) has warned that strict action including closure of industrial units will be taken against those using unauthorized fuel and adding to air pollution. The warning came from Mr. Hardik Shah, member secretary of GPCB, during his day-long visit to Surat recently. Mr. Shah met representatives of industry and builders at the office of South Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industries and asked the industry to implement an action plan to deal with environmental issues. He said, "Every one needs to understand and act while keeping in mind the environmental concerns. Sensitization must begin immediately." "If you don't stop using unauthorized fuel we will not hesitate to take strict action," he warned those contributing to increasing air pollution. He also called for working on ways and means to use sewerage water for industrial use after being treated. banks particularly by State bank of India, Canara Bank, Andhra Bank, United Bank of India in this regard. SBI is bearing the guarantee fee required by Credit Guarantee Fund Trust for Micro and Small Enterprises (CGTMSE) for providing credit guarantee on loans extended by SBI. “The CEOs of banks have assured me to extend full support in extending the loan to handloom weavers and they will monitor the progress of issuance of weavers’ credit card at their level,” the minister added. It is widely acknowledged that availability of subsidised working capital is one of the essential requirements for growth of the handloom sector. The government has approved ‘Financial Package’ as well as ‘Comprehensive Package’ in 2011 to ensure the smooth flow of credit to handloom sector. Under the financial package, the overdue loan of handloom cooperatives and individual weavers as on 31.3.2010 is being waived and banks have to provide fresh credit with interest subvention of 3% and credit guarantee for 3 years. Those weavers who are not getting benefits under financial package are being assisted through institutional credit component of comprehensive package wherein Weavers’ Credit Cards (WCC) NCM-JULY 2013 93

are being issued to handloom weavers and government is providing 3% interest subvention along with credit guarantee through CGTMSE and margin money assistance. Further, appreciating the importance of much needed subsidised credit for handloom sector, on the request of Ministry of Textiles, the Finance Minister in his budget speech for 201314, has announced loan to handloom sector at 6% interest rate. The Ministry has also developed web enabled application for online submission of progress of issuance of weavers’ credit card by banks and state governments (www.wcchandlooms.in) Textiles Minister Concerned Over Delays in Submission of Subsidy Claims in TUFS Asks Banks to Monitor TUFS Online In a meeting with the CMDs and General Managers of all the Banks to discuss issues pertaining to Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS), the Textiles Minister expressed concerns over the delay in submission of subsidy claims as well as partial submission of claims. Apart from these, Dr. Rao shared concerns over the following issues :

NEWS BRIEFS 1. As per the Government Resolution on restructured TUFS (R-TUFS), the Lending Agencies are required to submit the subsidy claims by 5th of the month of the following quarter. However, very few Lending Agencies submit the claims as per the specified date. 2. The claims are to be made along with Utilization Certificate, Claim Correctness Certificate. Generally, these certificates submitted by Lending Agencies are not in order, which again result in delays in processing of claims. 3. There is considerable delay in submission of applications of Unique Identity Numbers (UIDs) under RTUFS for pre-authorisation by the Lending Agencies. As a result, the Industry is at the mercy of Lending Agencies. There are many cases prior to 31.03.2012 pending with Lending Agencies for UIDs which are not submitted by them within the stipulated time of 16.07.2012. Earlier also such instances happened in large numbers which resulted in creation of List-II cases under Modified TUFS. The banks were asked to give details of all pending claims including details of black out and other pending cases with them by the end of this month. The banks also agreed to address the issues of less staff of TUFS, frequent transfers and poor training who deals with TUFS cases. Dr. Rao also emphasised on all the banks and the officers to consider online monitoring of all the TUFS cases. He assured that no pendency regarding any issues pertaining to TUFS shall be pending in the Ministry of Textiles. The Textiles Minister also emphasised that the prospects for growth of the sector in India are very favourable and after extensive meetings with industry and exporters, he is of the view that export can be doubled. He called upon the banks to liberally fund investments in the sector to support the growth.

Reviews of Wool and Carpet sectors The Union Minister of Textiles Dr. K.S.Rao recently held a meeting with the stake holders of Wool and Carpet Industry to prepare a road map to increase the woollen and carpet export. During the discussion, major issues related to growth of the sector like pasture farm for sheep grazing, feed supplement for sheep during summer season, skill development training for Carpet weaving and sheep husbandry, MAI/MDA issues, modernisation of woollen processing machineries were discussed. Issues related to rationalisation of import duty on raw wool and woollen processing machineries were also discussed. Quarantine and recyclable (shoddy) shawl industry issues were also discussed. The Textiles Minister at the conclusion assured the industry representatives that problems related to them will be looked into and expedited to resolve them. The Minister of State for Textiles Smt. Panabaaka Lakshmi, Secretary (Textiles) Smt. Zohra Chatterjee, senior Officers from Ministry of Textiles, Chairmen from different Export Promotion Councils of Wool and Carpet sectors and representatives from different segments of wool sector including sheep breeders, angora farmers, wool industrialists and scientists were present in the session.

Dr K S Rao Chairs Meeting of all India Handicraft Board Assures Quick Roll out of 12th Plan Schemes Dr. Kavuru Samba Siva Rao, the Minister of Textiles recently chaired a meeting with the members of All India Handicrafts Board comprising of officials from different Ministries and Departments of Central and State NCM-JULY 2013 94

Governments, apart from the non-official members with diverse backgrounds and experiences representing almost all States of the country. Addressing the members the Minister outlined various initiative of the Ministry for a comprehensive and sustainable development of the craft sector in the country. He specifically mentioned about the difficult times our economy is going through at present on account of first the economic slowdown in the developed world and secondly on account of recent hardening of the US Dollar against the Indian currency. This has impacted all sectors of our economy including the handicraft sector. He however, assured the gathering that the Government is committed to do all it can to bring about visible changes for the people and sectors affected. While outlining the present initiatives of the Government in the craft sector, the Minister remarked that for the 12th Plan, the Government has articulated a vision which aims to create a globally competitive Handicrafts Sector and provide sustainable livelihood opportunities to the artisans through innovative products designs, improvement in product quality, introduction of modern technology and preserving traditions. While the 12th Plan proposals are under various stages of appraisal/approval, he mentioned that many new initiatives are in the pipeline and they will be rolled out soon after the schemes are approved. He hoped for a better future for the craft sector both in the domestic and International markets. Speaking on the occasion Smt. Panaabaka Laxmi, the Minister of State for Textiles outlined the ministries resolve to do the best possible for servicing this unorganized sector where the artisans, predominantly in the rural areas, derive their substance. Smt. Zohra Chatterjee, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles remarked about the Ministryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s resolve to further strengthen

NEWS BRIEFS and consolidate the governmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s efforts towards an enhanced level of economic growth of the artisanal community in the country. Shri S.S. Gupta, Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) expressing his gratitude to the Members of the Board remarked that their continued feedback and suggestions would enable the Ministry to further align and focus various programmes and initiatives in future so as to ensure that the artisanal community in the country and other stakeholders in the sector work jointly for the common goal of bringing Indian handicrafts to each home not only in our country but in other several countries of the world.

Indian Handicrafts Exhibitors Secure Business of Over US$ Three Million at the Conclusion of Threeday Giftex World 2013 in Tokyo Japan : EPCH New Delhi - Indian handicrafts companies participating in the three-day GIFTEX WORLD 2013 generated a business of worth over US$ three million which concluded at Tokyo Big Sight Japan recently. Ms. Deepa Gopalan Wadhwa, Ambassador, Embassy of India, Tokyo-Japan inaugurated India Pavilion at the GIFTEX WORLD 2013 at Tokyo Big Sight Japan on June 26, 2013.

The Board performs an advisory role whereby during such interactions, the Ministry of Textiles receives various useful suggestions aimed at ameliorating the problems and concerns of the crafts sector.

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Ms. Deepa Gopalan Wadhwa, Ambassador, Embassy of India, TokyoJapan inaugurating India Pavilion at the GIFTEX WORLD 2013 in Tokyo The Executive Director of Export Promotion Council For Handicrafts (EPCH), Mr. Rakesh Kumar led a delegation of 20 member exporters of Indian Handicrafts to participate in the famous Giftex World 2013 at Tokyo Big Sight Japan from 26-28 June, 2013. Around 1800 exhibitors and nearly 70,000 trade buyers visited this 6-in-1 international fair to source their requirements. This year 27 countries participated in the fair and India's first time participation in this fair was next only to China and South Korea. Ambassador of India to Japan interacted with the EPCH member exhibitors and shared valuable tips to develop business in typical Japanese Market. The exhibitors represented various parts of India specially from West Bengal, Delhi, Jammu & Kashmir, Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Haryana, Madhya Pradesh and Uttarakhand. Japan represents tremendous business opportunities for Indian handicrafts exporters in growing Asian market. Embassy of India in Japan will extend necessary support to EPCH to formulate a road map for promotion of Indian Handicrafts in Japanese market by organising Buyer Seller Meets, Induction of Japanese Merchandising Designers and Inviting Japanese trade visitors to Indian Fairs. NCM-JULY 2013 95

NEWS BRIEFS Moreover, Mr. Rakesh Kumar, Executive Director EPCH, has been invited by Osaka International Business Promotion Center in this visit for strategic partnership with EPCH for Japanese product designers support for Handicrafts Sector in India.

Japan is the second largest market in the world, after USA but slightly ahead of Germany for consumer and capital goods. Japan imports goods &. services worth US$ 700 billion and is presently India's key trading partner in the Asian region. The Japanese have many gift giving traditions and exchange many high value gifts during the year. The Japanese lucrative gift market is estimated to be worth US$ 150 billion.

The Indian Exhibitor profile includes Variety Gifts, Accessories, Interior Goods, Home Accessories, Kitchenware, Tableware, Home Textile, Christmas Accessories, Fashion Goods, Accessories, Fancy Goods, Eco-friendly Goods. "Handicrafts occupies an important place in the Indian economy and society. This product group is a large foreign exchange earner, employment generator for economically and socially backward classes and promoter of Indian ethnic, cultural heritage worldwide," the Executive Director of the Council added. Japan is the second largest market in the world, after USA but slightly ahead of Germany for consumer and capital goods. Japan imports goods &. services worth US$ 700 billion and is presently India's key trading partner in the Asian region. The Japanese have many gift giving traditions and exchange many high value gifts during the year. The Japanese lucrative gift market is estimated to be worth US$ 150 billion.

Eminent exporter Mr. Harish Lan from Moradabad and Mr. Rakesh Kumar ED, EPCH discusses the prospects of handicrafts exports to Japan with Ms Deena Gopalan Wacihwa, Ambassador of India to Japan during GIFTEX WORLD TOKYO 2013 NTC Young Designer Hunt Contest

The exports of Handicrafts have shown an increase of Rs.17970.12 crores (2012-13] from Rs. 12975.25 crores (2011-12), growth of 38.50% in rupees term. In dollar terms, the exports have shown increase of USD 3304.90 million (2012-13) from USD 2705.66 million (2011-12) a growth of 22.15 % during the period April-March 2012-13.

NTC successfully hunts the most talented designers NTC had launched the Young Designer Hunt Contest on December 26, 2012

in A Grand function in Delhi. The hunt was inaugurated by the MoT. This hunt was aimed at selecting 10 best designers in different categories viz Apparel, Home Decor, Furniture, Accessories & Handicraft & Heritage who would deNCM-JULY 2013 96

NEWS BRIEFS sign the merchandise for the “Brand India” stores, a global retail offering of NTC, to bring all apparels, home décor, furniture, handicrafts and accessories etc. under one roof. NTC received an overwhelming response throughout India, out of which Shri Raghvendra Rathore and his team had selected 42 applicants. Out of these 42 applicants, NTC has now selected the most talented designers through NTC Young Designer Hunt at Grand Finale on 16th May 2013. The winners would get an opportunity to work with NTC on contractual basis for one year and at the same time shall get an opportunity to be personally trained by Shri Raghavendra Rathore, India’s ace global designer and NTC’ Brand champion for “ Brand India” stores.

The Union Minister for Textiles, Dr. Kavuru Sambasiva Rao lighting the lamp to inaugurate the Indian 6th Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Show, in Greater Noida, Uttar Pradesh. The Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Smt. Zohra Chatterji is also seen.

NTC participated in Home Furnishing Exhibition “Hometex 2013” In order to create a substantial presence in the Home Furnishing section, NTC participated in the Home Furnishing exhibition at Bangalore where it displayed its wide range of Bed Linen, Bath Linens, and Yarn. NTC displayed its products across the textile value chain. NTC conveyed its intention to launch its value for money brands in the field of shirts, denims, innerwear etc.

Textiles Minister Inaugurates Indian Fashion Jewellery and Accessories Show 2013 New Delhi : The Union Minister of Textiles Dr. Kavuru Sambasiva Rao inaugurated the 6th edition of the Indian Fashion Jewellery and Accessories Show (IFJAS 2013) in New Delhi. The show is organised by the Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts (EPCH). Inaugurating the IFJAS 2013, Dr. Rao

Dr. Kavuru Sambasiva Rao going round the Show after inaugurating the Show said that the exporters have promised to take the export of handicraft from USD 3.34 bn to USD 5 bn this year itself. “But my ambition is much more. If the government simplifies various procedures and take the decisions quickly without any red-tapism, and give some financial help to those artisans, providing them basic requirements, a shelter to live, provide food grains at affordable prices, some facilities to their children, and regular training, there is no limit for the growth of the cottage industry.” NCM-JULY 2013 97

Dr. Rao further added that “India has capacity to cater to all segments of the market viz. high, middle and low end. India also has capacity of presenting variety of raw material bases, designs and prices to suit every dress and styles. In fact, buyers now prefer to alternate fashion jewellery and accessories rather than alternating their costumes which are expensive.” The Textiles Minister also urged the exporting community to innovate and improve their techniques and technol-

NEWS BRIEFS ogy of manufacturing and they also need to improve their designs and presentation of products. “We have to learn from our competitors various aspects of designs, manufacturing, finishing and presentation,” added Dr. Rao. Dr. Rao also released a trend book on Indian Fashion Jewellery and Accessories Spring Summer and Autumn Winter collection. The IFJAS 2013 has around 205 exhibitors and product range on display are Hi fashion jewellery, semi precious jewellery, stoles, scarves, shawls, hand bags, clutch purses, belts, wallets, neck ties, beads, stones, crystals, head, hair accessories, fancy fashion footwear, tattoes and bindies. Ms. Zohra Chatterji, Secretary Textiles and Mr. S.S. Gupta, Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) also graced the occasion with their presence.

Industrial policy ignores existing industry, say Amritsar textile unit owners Amritsar : Even as the majority of textile processing units vanished from the city in the past decade, the successive governments never bothered to get to the root of the problem. The owners of many textile units are perturbed as the recently released industrial policy failed to provide relief to this indigenous industry. Hardit Singh Makhni, general secretary, Textile Manufacturers' Association said, "It will be better if the government releases its industrial policy in two parts in future. One for attracting fresh investment and new industries and another for the existing industries of the state." He said the imposition of multiple

The Union Textiles Minister releasing the Trends Book on Indian Fashion Jewellery & Accessories, at the inauguration of the IFJAS 2013 Highlights *

Owners of textile units in Amritsar rue that the recently released industrial policy has failed to provide relief to the struggling textile units

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They say highly labour intensive processing units, which have employed thousands of workers, are being forced to shut down

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Imposition of multiple taxes, costly raw material and the government's failure to modernise plants are seen as the factors responsible for the local industry's plight

taxes, costly raw material, an unsupportive attitude of the government and failure to modernise plants led to the closure of several units, most of which shifted to Gujarat. “The conducive environment the Gujarat government provided to the processing units in Surat, coupled with its superior geographical location, the Gujarat industry has grabbed a major share in the domestic textile market,” said Krishan Kumar Sharma, presiNCM-JULY 2013 98

dent of the Amritsar Textile Processors Association. He said the local processing units had raised the standard of textile in the country. There were about 250 processing units till nineties here, but now the number had come down to a meagre 40 and that too is in small and medium enterprises category, he added. The Gujarat Government has come up with industrial areas equipped with common treatment plants and other facilities which has brought it on the industrial map of the country On the other hand, Amritsar’s tail end location made it a costly affair for the local industrialists to compete in the national market. A majority of the textile processing units were set up here during the textile boom of the 1960s-70s. Fabric from Surat and Mumbai are better in quality and lower in price. Different excise tax slabs for composite and independent units, too, dealt a blow to the local industry. The nonimplementation of subsidy, as an-

NEWS BRIEFS nounced by the Prime Minister, served no better. Sharma said they appeal to the SADBJP government to conduct a survey to find the root cause of the problem. He said their association had taken up the matter with the government to set up common treatment plants.

is finished. Ludhiana is known for textile industry and they will not find any difficulty in finding work and will be easily absorbed in the city.

people, particularly rural youth, had also started wearing designer clothes like their urban counterparts and such training would create new employment opportunities for rural masses.

Textile & clothing generate maximum employ- Sunaina Tomar, Joint ment, says VC of Secretary, Ministry of Textiles visits Ludhiana Training centre for CCSHAU women to come up in Hisar :Dr KS Khokhar, Vice-Chancel- Ludhiana : A delegation of Knitwear Club, Ludhiana under the leadership lor, Chaudhary Charan Singh Haryana of Darshan Dawar, President met textile park Ludhiana : At present, the participation of women in textile industry is a meager two per cent and with an aim to take that percentage up to 25 per cent, the Textile Integrated Park (TIP) will start special training classes for women. The TIP will be setting up a training institute at the textile park where special emphasis will be given to the training of women. For women, emphasis will be laid on training in three fields flat knitting, linking and stitching. "We have received grant of Rs 24 crore while will be getting Rs 16 crore more from the Central Government for the textile park. Stress will be laid on imparting training to women. We are expecting to give training to nearly 400 women in the first slot," said Darshan Dawar, director of Integrated Textile Park. He further said instead of giving sewing machines or ration to women, we aim to make women economically independent. Training in fields like knitting and stitching will be given to women. Dawar further said that women are already doing works like knitting, stitching at home and want them to adopt them as profession. Textile industry does not have night shifts for women and a very congenial environment will be provided to them at workplace once their training

Agricultural University (CCSHAU), has called upon the youth to trace their career in the fast-growing textile and garment construction industry also.

Sunaina Tomar, Joint Secretary, Ministry of Textiles at Ludhiana last month.

Dr Khokhar was speaking as the chief guest at the closing of an ICAR-sponsored short course on entrepreneurial development through skill upgradation in apparel designing techniques organised by the Textile & Apparel Designing Department and Directorate of Human Resource Management of the university. A total of 14 teachers, scientists and extension specialists from different agricultural universities and ICAR institutes participated in the training.

Mr. Dawar said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Labour shortage is becoming a major factor before us. To tackle this problem, we are left with no other option but to depend upon machines. Imported machines are more equipped and thus we import reconditioned machinery from countries like France, Germany and Taiwan. Things have become difficult after the government withdrew subsidy from reconditioned machines. The withdrawal should be taken back as things are becoming really difficult for the industry to survive."

Dr Khokhar said Indian Textile and Clothing Industry was currently one of the largest and most important industries in India in terms of output, foreign exchange earnings and employment. He said the country was earning nearly Rs 70,000 crore from export of these products and this figure was expected to grow to Rs 90,000 crore by 2020. He said as far as employment opportunities were concerned, this was second largest employment-generating industry where the garment production units alone provided 40 per cent of jobs in the small-scale sector besides offering ample opportunities for entrepreneurs to grow. He further stressed on imparting training on garment construction and designing to ruralites, He said rural NCM-JULY 2013 99

A release issued by the Club said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;As you know the industry is facing acute shortage of skilled labour as labour from outside Punjab is not coming due to various government schemes like NAREGA which has forced them to remain at their native places. Thus upgradation of Units with modern machines is more relevant today to maintain the time schedule of suppliers. But the industrialists have to face undue delay in getting the subsidy on new machines due to the negligence of the banks.â&#x20AC;? Also from the allotted funds for TUFS, minimum 50 per cent should be kept reserved for the SME sector as the bigger and organised units take maximum benefit out of it and till the time SME's get ready after documentation, funds for them lapse, said Narinder Miglani, general secretary.

NEWS BRIEFS The delegation of knitwear club met Sunaina Tomar, joint secretary, Ministry of Textiles in this regard. The delegation discussed the problems arising from the scheme TUFS as the government has withdrawn subsidy from reconditioned machines, due to which the textile industry is badly affected. The delegation requested to revive the same scheme on reconditioned machines. “Sunaina Tomar gave a patient hearing to the problems and assured to mitigate them as soon as possible”, the release said, adding she also added that the department has planned to set up the online system to maintain the transparency and benefits of the subsidy”, it further reveals. Narinder Miglani (General Secretary), Sanjeev Gupta (president Appeal), Dhruv Aggarwal (Member All India Powerloom Board), Lakshmi Gupta, Dinesh Lakra and Subhash Gupta were among those present.

Textile Ministry gives nod to Rs 5.87 cr for carpet training project to upgrade carpet industry Srinagar : According to the J&K government release, a skill upgrade and entrepreneurship development project for the carpet industry across the Kashmir valley has been approved by the Union Ministry of Textiles. “Under the project, 4,300 persons are being trained, which includes 4,200 persons under certificate course in carpet manufacturing (CCM) of four months’ duration and 100 persons

The delegation of knitwear club with Sunaina Tomar, joint secretary, Ministry of Textiles under diploma in carpet technology and entrepreneurship development (DCTED) of one year duration,” said Minister of State for Industries and Commerce Sajad Ahmed Kichloo while interacting with a delegation of artisans from Srinagar. He said the Union Ministry had approved the Rs 5.87 crore project for carpet training. Kichloo said the handicrafts sector of the state was being given a boost. “Ten handicrafts clusters in Srinagar city have been set up to promote various types of handicrafts. A handicrafts cluster for paper machine has been set up at Zadibal and Khatamband, walnut wood carving and cooper ware cluster at Safakadal and Pashmina weaving cluster at Noor Bagh,” an official spokesman said while quoting Kichloo. Kichloo said in order to bring qualita-

tive and quantitative improvement in handicrafts, modern looms are being provided to all artisans and weavers in a phased manner. “About 2,000 such looms have been distributed among the artisans,” Kichloo added.

Rajasthan govt. offers sops to textile industry The Rajasthan cabinet has decided to provide a special customised package for the development of the textile industry, attracting investment worth Rs.10,000 crore and for creating 50,000 jobs in the next seven years. The cabinet also approved the establishment of a Rajasthan Cooperative Finance and Development Corporation. The state government would provided a share capital of Rs.100 crore to increase credit availability in rural areas.

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NEWS BRIEFS The package for the textile industry will be applicable to new enterprises, already established enterprises making investment for modernisation, expansion and diversification and sick units.

Corporation stepped in and bought cotton from farmers at the support price level of Rs 39,000 a candy. The sale of nearly 7-8 lakh bales has resulted in an approximate loss of Rs 719 crore.

The government has promised sops including interest-waiver, subsidy and VAT reimbursement to the textile industry.

Although there was pressure on the Government from the textile industry to direct the corporation to off-load the remaining stock earlier, the Textile Ministry held on, waiting for domestic prices to rise. In a representation apex textiles body Confederation of Indian Textiles Industry in March had said that cotton prices had increased about 15 per cent in the last few weeks and the Corporation should dispose of its stocks to curb the price rise.

Govt orders sale of cotton procured from open market Cotton Corpn to sell 14 lakh bales domestically New Delhi : The Textiles Ministry has given the green signal to the Cotton Corporation of India to release the entire stock of 14 lakh bales (170 kg each) of cotton in the domestic market as the prevailing prices are high enough to ensure that it would not suffer any more losses. The CCI will sell the stock in tranches at the prevailing market rates. Currently, Shankar-6, mainly in demand for exports, is ruling at Rs 42,500 for a candy of 356 kg. Kavuru Sambasiva Rao, Minister for Textiles, said that Cotton Corporation has already been asked to offload the stocks it holds in the domestic market. “The stock will not be released all at the same time as it will affect prices. Every day, CCI would be releasing about 30,000-40,000 (bales). It is all being done in a transparent manner,” said Rao. The Cotton Corporation had built the stocks by buying some 22.65 lakh bales from the open market as part of the Government’s market intervention operation after prices dropped below the minimum support level. It has sold 14 lakh bales in the domestic market when prices were ruling lower than the MSP, leading to losses. Prices of cotton had fallen to Rs 34,000 a candy in February, when the

“By selling the rest of the stock at a higher price of Rs 42,500 a candy, the corporation can recover some of its earlier losses,” the Minister said. Asked if Cotton Corporation has exported any of the surplus stock, he said, “No exports have taken place from the surplus stocks.” CCI is basically a trading organization dealing in cotton. CCI's clients i.e. spinning mills are spread over across the country, which puts a greater onus on the organization to reach its client mills and various stakeholders viz., ginning NCM-JULY 2013 101

B.K. Mishra Chairman and MD, CCI

Today, the cardinal rule for the businesses is – “Deliver goods or services with maximum speed and efficiency”. and pressing factories, cotton trade, industry, etc., with speed and efficiency leaving no space for doubts or delay.

NEWS BRIEFS DyStar and Arvind Limited Denim Division in a Strategic Co-operation DyStar Indigo Vat 40% Solution will be used at all Arvind Denim Manufacturing facilities Ahmedabad – DyStar Group and Arvind Limited have committed to an exciting joint development in the field of denim. According to a DyStar release, this agreement, which was signed on June 21, 2013, between Mr. Harry Dobrowolski, DyStar’s CEO and Mr. Sanjay Lalbhai, Chairman and Managing Director of Arvind Ltd, promises a comprehensive cooperation.

Mr. Sanjay Lalbhai, CMD, Arvind Ltd

Moving forward, DyStar Indigo Vat 40% Solution will be used at all Arvind Denim Manufacturing facilities. Dedicated teams from DyStar and Arvind Limited Denim Division will work closely together to implement new technologies in indigo dyeing and finishing as well as develop new products, processes and effects for denim fabrics and garments. Arvind Ltd., a US $ 1 Bn Lalbhai Group company is one of the largest apparel companies and a pioneer of denim in India. It has the largest portfolio of foreign licensed apparel brands like Arrow, US Polo, GANT, Nautica, Izod and Tommy Hilfiger. With 100 Arvind Stores up and running, Arvind is now aiming to grow the format multi-fold to over 400 stores and to build the 'brand Arvind' into a Rs. 2000 Cr brand by FY 2017-18.

Garment machinery manufacturers facing challenge from imports The manufacturers of garment machinery in Ludhiana are losing out to better quality and cost-effective machinery imported from Southeast Asian and European countries. Ludhiana : Once the backbone of the local garments and knitwear industry, garment machinery manufactures are finding it hard to continue. They also blame the government for not providing enough support to them to upgrade their technology. President of the Garments Machinery Manufacturers' and Suppliers' Association, Ram Krishan, said: “There was a time when business was booming. But for some years, the industry has been facing tough times. The local garments industry now prefers machines imported from countries like China, Taiwan, Germany and Japan.” The imported machines are much better in quality and also increase production manifold. “Machines imported from China are cost effective and give an advantage to the garments manufacturing industry,” he added. The state of affairs can be gauged from the fact at a point of time there were about 100 garments manufacturers who used circular-knitting machines manufactured by the local industry. “But now only 4 or 5 units use the local machinery. Others have installed imported machines,” he said. “While local machines produce 30-kg product in a day, imported machines produce 300-kg product in a day,” he said. Gurdev Singh, the owner of Alex International, a garment machinery manufacturing unit in the city, said the state government had not offered any help to reverse this trend. “The lack of technological improvement can be understood from the situation that many machinery manufacturers have become suppliers and import machinery and then sell it,” he said. “While the Centre has been promoting technological advancement in the textile sector by providing the industry help under the Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme, the state government is not willing to the same. It categorises us in the engineering industry,” he said. For upgrading technology, an industry requires crores of rupees. “But no one single industry is in the position to do that,” he said. To improve the situation, the association had recently opted for a development programme of the central government for setting up a common facility centre for upgrading technology. “But it has been more than a year since we applied for enrolment in the programme, but things are moving at a snail's pace,” he added. At present, 58 industries are members of the association, though the actual number of manufacturers in the city is around 100. NCM-JULY 2013 102

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