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MARCH 2018 (VOL. 32, NO. 3)
Dr. Anandjiwala R. : Business Area Manager, CSIR, South Africa Bhatia Kailash
: CEO-IMG, Pantaloon Retail (I) Ltd.
: IIMS, Ahmedabad
Dr. Mittal R.M.
: President (Technology & Strategy) Morarjee Goculdas Spg. & Wvg. Co. Ltd., Mumbai
08 EXECUTIVE PAGES
EDITORIAL: "LET'S HAVE THE NEW 10-PAGE TEXTILE POLICY"
* Lasering Synthetic Fiber FabricsInstead of Sewing
Dr. Oza K.I.
: Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad
Prof. Patel M.R.
: Ex-Principal, Vishwakarma Govt. Engg. College, Ahmedabad
Dr. Paul Roshan
: Head, Research, Function & Care Dept., Hohenstein Institute, Germany
* Energy-Harvesting Yarns Generate Electricity
Dr. Rajan V.S.
: Technical Advisor, Filter Fabrics
* Recipe for Interlining Finish from Kunal
: Textile Consultant, Ahmedabad
* In Kenya: Producing Textile Fibre from Wild Fruit
Dr. Saxena Y.K.
: Consultant, Industrial Environment
* Colourtex Recipe for Processing Kimaya Saree
: G.M.-Fibre Dyeing, Bhilwara Processors Ltd., Bhilwara
* Fashionâ€™s Creativity Includes Technology
Dr. Shroff J.J.
: Advisor (R&D), Arvind Mills Ltd.
* 'ISizeYou' - Measuring Clothes Sizes Online * Recycling PU Foam and Bonded Carpet Cushion
* Unbelievably Low Cost Antimicrobial Agent * Open End Spinbox Components from Basant Wire
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26 LIST OF INDL. ENTREPRENEURS' MEMORANDUM: TEXTILE & ALLIED SECTORS (JANUARY 2018) 33 LIST OF NEW TEXTILE & ALLIED COMPANIES REGISTERED WITH ROCs (FEBRUARY 2018) 37 A REVIEW OF SOME RECENT BREAKTHROUGHS IN MEDICAL TEXTILES RESEARCH
57 INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES * Clothing and Textile Sector in Finland * Prospering in the Circular Economy: The Case Of European Textile & Apparel Manufacturing Industry * 3D Printed Shoes on-demand * The EU-Textile 2030 European project * International News & Technical Developments
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NCM-MARCH 2018 NEW CLOTH MARKET, MARCH 2018
NEW CLOTH MARKET The Complete Monthly Textile Magazine from Textile Technologists
ADVISORY BOARD Mr. Amin K.D. Dr. Bhat Prabhakar Dr. Deo H.T. Mr. Garde A.R. Mr. Jain K.C. Mr. Lekhadia Atul Dr. Patel B.B. Mr. Shah H.K.
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Ex. Regional Manager, Colourtex Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad Head - Textile Dept., Shri Vaishnav Institute of Technology & Science, Indore. Ex Professor (Fibre Chemistry), U.D.C.T., Bombay. Ex-Director, ATIRA Processing Manager, Bhilwara Suitings, Bhilwara Managing Director, Kunal Organics Pvt. Ltd. Professor of Economics, Gandhi Labour Institute, Ahmedabad FinancialAdviser, ANZ Exports (India), Ahmedabad
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WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?
Let's Have the New 10-Page Textile Policy There appears to be a race among various states in the country for attracting new investments in various sectors including textile and clothing. Textile and clothing because these sectors are quite labour intensive and the country has a good track record of productive functioning of SMEs in these sectors. In this respect, the intensity with which the Gujarat Model of arranging Vibrant Gujarat type events can be seen in almost every state from Chhattisgarh to Karnataka. The number of MoUs and their total project cost are the main indicators of the success of these events. The first and foremost step being taken by states is to announce a new policy document for the industry. The latest is the case of the New Textile Policy 2018-23 by the Maharashtra government under which a long list of incentives and concessions have been announced to attract fresh investment in the textile sector. Gujarat had already announced the new textile policy followed by a mega event Textile India 2017 which was held in July last year. The event was inaugurated by Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi and was participated by who’s who of the Indian textile industry. A large number of guests and delegates from overseas also attended. Most trade associations merged their annual event with the Textile India 2017 to make it a huge success. Inspired by Shri Narendra Modi, chief ministers of states like Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh, Telangana, Andhra Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Haryana, Maharashtra and others have intensified their efforts to sign maximum number of MoUs. For this, they have held various national and global investment summits, undertaken visits abroad, to sell their respective state as an ideal investment destination. Most states have their own Textile Policy and this has created an environment of competition among them for attracting the new investment. Although no study is available to gauge the effectiveness of these policies and the benefits they provide to entrepreneurs in the decentralized sector, there is a feeling among small players that bulk of the benefits provided in these policies are going to big corporate level enterprises who have the resources and network to examine the policy documents and present their projects in the required fashion to make them eligible for those benefits. The big players can afford costly consultants who have the ready network to get the work done. It’s like in the judiciary where big and resourceful people get away with their unfair practices by employing reputed lawyers who are well versed with the loophole in the system. The single owner units having, no professional backing, are unable to make use of these government policies due to the complex policy wordings, as well as vague terms and conditions. They lack awareness and resources to seek these policy benefits. If the government sincerely desires that small sector units, who are the backbone of the industry, should prosper and progress then it should come out with a simple, brief and clear policy documents with very few ifs and buts. The Centre is expected to come out with the new national level Textile Policy very shortly. Let the government simplify the policy document and consolidate various incentives in such a way that even a layman can understand it. Let the policy document be compressed to just 10 pages. Hope you get it!
G.D. JASUJA Managing Editor
NCM-MARCH 2018 7
New Technology for Synthetic Fiber Fabrics: Lasering Instead of Sewing Over the last few years, scientists of the Swiss Federal Laboratories for Materials Science and Technology (Empa) - an interdisciplinary Swiss research institute for applied materials sciences & technology - have developed a novel process that fuses synthetic fiber fabrics – making the "seam" airtight and waterproof. In order to exploit the innovative technology commercially, Empa researchers Alexander Haag and MichelSchmid recently founded the spin-off “Nahtlos”, located in the Startfeld innovation center in St. Gallen right next door to Empa. To make conventional seams waterproof, they are "sealed" with tape on the underside. In collaboration with industry partners, Empa researchers Alexander Haag and Michel Schmid have developed a laser-based technology that replaces the twostep-process – sewing and sealing – with a single step: a laser seals the two (identical) synthetic fibers together. Now the seam – and thus the fabric – is not only waterproof but also airtight. Thanks to the new laser technology, garUsing a laser, the new Empa spin-off can seamlessly seal ments with new design elements or multisynthetic fiber fabrics to make them waterproof & airtight. functional clothing with improved features can be produced. The two researchers have already produced a mattress using "their" laser. The fact that the new technology also promises innovative applications in the sleep industry is shown by the fact that Empa holds the patent together with an industry partner from a CTI project. In January 2017, Haag and Schmid founded the company Nahtlos GmbH and moved into their new offices in the Startfeld innovation center, right next to the Empa site in St. Gallen. Startfeld is a network for innovation and start-ups in the region and supports entrepreneurs as well as small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs). Empa is one of five partner institutions. The cooperation between Empa and the new company will thus continue in the future. The Nahtlos founders will use Empa's on-site diode laser, which seals the polymers, for product development with their customers and partners.
(Copyright: Aurélie Vial - ECAL)
Goodbye Needle and Thread – Hello Laser!
Wanted: new industry partners Since the founding of Nahtlos, the two neo-entrepreneurs have put a lot of time into the search for industry partners. "Many companies are skeptical about the new technology, as the conventional method has worked well so far," explains Haag. For this reason, a lot of persuasion and customized functional samples are still required at the moment. "But once they understand the advantages of our production method, most of them are thrilled." So it is no surprise that the development of the technology is not finished at this point, Haag emphasizes. "Our vision is an automated processing of laser-sealed products." NCM-MARCH 2018 11
The new process can be used on jackets, for example The most important part of laser welding is that it does not damage the exterior of the fabric which creates a seamless effect. Laserwelded seams are extremely flat, elastic, and skin-friendly. Since laser welding does not require adhesives of any kind, it is also especially environmentally friendly due to the recycling process.
'ISizeYou' - The App that Calculates Clothes Sizes Online INTEXTER researchers create a virtual 'tailor' that makes the purchase of clothing 'on line' The Institute for Textile Research and Industrial Cooperation (INTEXTER) of the Polytechnic University of Catalonia (UPC) coordinates the European MORPHEOS project, within the framework of which the 'ISizeYou' application has been developed which, as if it were a tailor Virtual, you take the measures to get the most accurate look at online clothing purchases.
It allows buyers to take body sizes with 100% objectivity from two photographs The application is part of the MORPHEOS project, funded by the Horizon 2020 of the European Union and involving six partners between institutions and companies The INTEXTER of the UPC at the Terrassa Campus, together with the iDeal and Holonix companies, the Italian clothing store Piacenza, the Technological University of Munich and the Metallurgical Technology Institute of Valencia (AIDIMME) have carried out MORPHEOS, a project which has generated the first system in the world that guarantees, with 100% objectivity, the sizing of the human body to choose the size that best suits the purchasers of clothes for electronic commerce. Thanks to this system, companies that sell clothes through the Internet can offer their clients, in a very simple way, the possibility of taking the body's sizes. From two photos sent from a mobile device, through the 'ISizeYou' application to the MORPHEOS system, the most appropriate size of clothing is determined according to the size of each person. The system is available, in the testing phase and for mobile phones Iphone, on the web the Italian shop Piazenza, Since the incorporation of the MORPHEUS system and the ISizeYou application, this store specialized in quality garments made with cashmir has experienced a Significant increase in sales. More sales less returns and emissions of CO2 One of the purposes of the project is to contribute to the significant increase in online clothing sales while reducing costs, returns, which are calculated in millions of euros. And while in sectors such as technology, 50% of sales are already produced online, in the fashion sector this percentage does not reach 15%. One of the main reasons for this difference is the difficulty that big brands and stores have to guarantee to their customers that their pants, shirts or the suit they bought virtually are the most appropriate size and that they will fit them so well as seen in the photo of the catalog. Currently, the percentage of returns to the European fashion sector is 40%. The consequences of this high volume result in added expenses, sales losses and, in turn, the emission of tonnes of CO 2 generated by the transport of the same returns. According to JosĂŠ Antonio Tornero, researcher at INTEXTER and project coordinator, "MORPHEOS will NCM-MARCH 2018 12
not only make it possible to increase the sale of clothing online, but will save the expenses derived from returns and transportation costs. It will also reduce the number of sales losses as well as the emissions of thousands of tons of CO 2 generated precisely for the transport of goods that the customer rejects because they do not fit in well. " For this reason, the Horizon 2020 program of the European Union has financed with 1 million euros the MORPHEOS project, a complex computer system built on certain algorithms that allows consumers of clothing Internet users take their measurements themselves to know the exact size, with 100% objectively, for each model of the catalog. This computerized system, developed by UPC researchers in Terrassa, generates a data bank with the different body morphotypes, in such a way that it establishes typological differences so that the brand or the virtual fashion store can advise the client with several models that They are the exact and objective size of the client. Easier than current techniques The buyer who wants to use the I Size application You only have to install it on the mobile phone (for now only works on the Iphone models) through the Apple Store, register and validate as a user with your password and take two photographs. Then you must enter the company's sales website, which has the same application, and validate it. From here, it will appear on the screen to the catalog of clothes and the most appropriate models based on the precise and objective size, provided by the computer system MORPHEOS after processing the data obtained from the two photos previously sent. Once the purchase is made, the customer receives the article as if it were any other product for sale over the internet "Up to now," explains the UPC researcher, José Antonio Tornero, "the great brands used complicated 3D scanner methodologies that profiled and stored the body to try to ensure the size of the hard client and the sale over the Internet" . For Tornero "these scanners are very flexible because they do not update the morphology of the client's body at the moment of making the purchase and in other cases they are based on measures provided by the client and that do not have the guarantee of being exact. With our system, "he says ," the store or large online sales platforms, such as Amazon, could ensure the customer, with 100% reliability, that the clothing that they sell adapts to the body's sizes ". In this sense, Tornero considers that having this application is like "bring to the mobile a particular virtual tailor that takes the size to sharpen in the purchase of each model." Applicable in other commercial sectors
José Antonio Tornero
Research manager at the Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya (UPC) as head of the Systems and Processes lab of the Textile Research Insitute of Terrassa (INTEXTER), Terrassa, Barcelona, Spain. He is also Co-founder and CTO at CEBIOTEX, SL, Spin-off company born from joint research activities of UPC and Hospital Sant Joan de Deu. The company is focused on the development of nanofiber technology and products for local drug delivery applications. Currently targeting pediatric and adult oncology indications.
Watch 'ISizeYou' - The Virtual Tailor App on your mobile device by scanning the above QR code.
This system, designed at the moment to win effectively in the purchase of clothing online, could also be applied by electronic commerce of other sectors, in which the reliability of the sizes is a key factor for the sale of its products, such as now the furniture or furniture sector or articles linked to the automotive sector. The INTEXTER of the UPC, coordinator of the project, is part of the UPC's Center for Innovation and Technology (CIT UPC)(open in new window) and is part of the TECNIO network of the Generalitat de Catalunya. In 2013 he was a founding member of the Innotex Center, a center of reference in R & D in the textile, toxicological and environmental fields. NCM-MARCH 2018 13
Recycling Success Story – Bonded Carpet Cushion: Recycling Polyurethane Foam and Bonded Carpet Cushion The transformation of flexible polyurethane foam waste materials into a useful consumer product, rebond carpet cushion, is a major recycling achievement. Flexible polyurethane foam (FPF) waste is generated from manufacturing trim scrap as a byproduct of the industrial fabrication of products such as mattresses, upholstered furniture and automotive seating. Post-industrial scrap foam is generated in the manufacturing process. Additional scrap foam is generated during fabrication as large foam blocks are cut into the desired shapes for bedding, upholstered furniture or the automotive industry.
Post-consumer FPF waste scrap comes from end-of-life upholstered furniture, mattresses, carpet cushion, automotive interior parts and other sources. Recovery of post-consumer foam waste was historically focused primarily on the recovery of used foam carpet cushion during the installation of new carpet. Known as ‘take-up,’ the used foam cushion is typically removed by the carpet installer and taken to a collection point, where scrap gathered from different locations is combined. In recent years, recycling of mattresses has become more common and a number of states now have organized programs to collect and recycle used mattresses. This presents an additional source of foam scrap to be handled. Finding a home for the large quantity of post-industrial and post-consumer waste generated each year, and keeping it out of landfills, represents a huge challenge as well as an opportunity. These scrap streams have been converted into new Bonded Carpet Cushion, known as ‘Rebond’ for many years. This represents an incredible recycling success story, diverting over ONE BILLION POUNDS per year of scrap which would be have been destined for landfills around the U.S. This corresponds to 600 MILLION cubic feet of foam scrap, which would cover over 11,000 football fields. Almost 100% of U.S. residential carpet is installed over carpet cushion. There are several varieties of carpet cushion sold in the US. These include bonded carpet cushion, fiber pad, latex and synthetic foam rubber, virgin polyurethane foam (known as ‘Prime’), and froth polyurethane cushion. Since the introduction of polyurethane foam carpet cushion in the late 1960’s, the market share for bonded carpet cushion has grown to achieve significant consumer acceptance. Among available carpet pad options, the largest segment, approximately 85-90% of the market, is represented by bonded cushion products. In 2015, approximately 800 million pounds of FPF waste (combined post-industrial and end-of-life postconsumer scrap) was recovered in the U.S. and an additional 200 million pounds of scrap was imported, primarily from Europe. This volume of collected scrap was mechanically processed and used as a raw material feedstock in the manufacture of bonded cushion products. Bonded cushion is manufactured by blending varying portions of recovered post-industrial and post-consumer scrap. Mechanical processing involves shredding and grinding the scrap into small chunks, which are then blended together based on a ‘recipe’ for the type of cushion being manufactured. A polymer binder is added to the blend, and the mixture is bonded and cured under high-pressure steam into blocks or ‘logs,’ before being sliced or peeled into finished carpet cushion. Recycling now provides a market for virtually 100% of all post-industrial scrap generated during foam production and finished product fabrication, as well as a large share of the post-consumer scrap sourced from recycled carpet cushion, mattresses, upholstered furniture, among other sources. Manufacturers benefit from the convenience and economy of foam recycling. Buyers are easy to locate, and they are looking for scrap sources to meet market demands. Bonded cushion represents a value-added floor covering component that is important to the economic performance of the carpet industry and to foam manufacturers. Since the 1960s, the bonded carpet cushion industry has diverted billions of pounds of foam scrap from landfills. NCM-MARCH 2018 14
No Batteries Needed: Energy-Harvesting Yarns Generate Electricity
Carbon yarn: Coiled carbon nanotube yarns, created at The University of Texas at Dallas and imaged here with a scanning electron microscope, generate electrical energy when stretched or twisted. An international research team led by scientists at The University of Texas at Dallas and Hanyang University in South Korea has developed high-tech yarns that generate electricity when they are stretched or twisted. In a study published in the journal Science, researchers describe “twistron” yarns and their possible applications, such as harvesting energy from the motion of ocean waves or from temperature fluctuations. When sewn into a shirt, these yarns served as a self-powered breathing monitor. “The easiest way to think of twistron harvesters is, you have a piece of yarn, you stretch it, and out comes electricity,” said Dr. Carter Haines BS’11, PhD’15, associate research professor in the Alan G. MacDiarmid NanoTech Institute at UT Dallas and co-lead author of the article. The article also includes researchers from South Korea, Virginia Tech, Wright-Patterson Air Force Base and China. Yarns Based on Nanotechnology The yarns are constructed from carbon nanotubes, which are hollow cylinders of carbon 10,000 times smaller in diameter than a human hair. The researchers first twist-spun the nanotubes into highstrength, lightweight yarns. To make the yarns highly elastic, they introduced so much twist that the yarns coiled like an over-twisted rubber band. In order to generate electricity, the yarns must be either submerged in or coated with an ionically conducting material, or electrolyte, which can be as simple as a Twistron team (From left): Dr. Carter Haines BS'11, PhD'15, mixture of ordinary table salt and water. Dr. Shi Hyeong Kim and Dr. Nai Li of the Alan G. MacDiarmid NanoTech institute at UT Dallas are lead au“Fundamentally, these yarns are thors of a study that describes carbon nanotube yarns supercapacitors,” said Dr. Na Li, a research that generate electricity when they are stretched or twisted. scientist at the NanoTech Institute and colead author of the study. “In a normal capacitor, you use energy — like from a battery — to add charges to the capacitor. But in our case, when you insert the carbon nanotube yarn into an electrolyte bath, the yarns are charged by the electrolyte itself. No external battery, or voltage, is needed.” NCM-MARCH 2018 15
When a harvester yarn is twisted or stretched, the volume of the carbon nanotube yarn decreases, bringing the electric charges on the yarn closer together and increasing their energy, Haines said. This increases the voltage associated with the charge stored in the yarn, enabling the harvesting of electricity. Stretching the coiled twistron yarns 30 times a second generated 250 watts per kilogram of peak electrical power when normalized to the harvester’s weight, said Dr. Ray Baughman, director of the NanoTech Institute and a corresponding author of the study. “Although numerous alternative harvesters have been investigated for many decades, no other reported harvester provides such high electrical power or energy output per cycle as ours for stretching rates between a few cycles per second and 600 cycles/sec.” Lab Tests Show Potential Applications In the lab, the researchers showed that a twistron yarn weighing less than a housefly could power a small LED, which lit up each time the yarn was stretched. To show that twistrons can harvest waste thermal energy from the environment, Li connected a twistron yarn to a polymer artificial muscle that contracts and expands when heated and cooled. The twistron harvester converted the mechanical energy generated by the polymer muscle to electrical energy. “There is a lot of interest in using waste energy to power the Internet of Things, such as arrays of distributed sensors,” Li said. “Twistron technology might be exploited for such applications where changing batteries is impractical.” The researchers also sewed twistron harvesters into a shirt. Normal breathing stretched the yarn and generated an electrical signal, showing its potential as a self-powered respiration sensor.
“If our twistron harvesters could be made less expensively, they might ultimately be able to harvest the enormous amount of energy available from ocean waves.” Dr. Ray Baughman, Director of the NanoTech Institute and a corresponding author of the study
“Electronic textiles are of major commercial interest, but how are you going to power them?” Baughman said. “Harvesting electrical energy from human motion is one strategy for eliminating the need for batteries. Our yarns produced over a hundred times higher electrical power per weight when stretched compared to other weavable fibers reported in the literature.” Electricity from Ocean Waves “In the lab we showed that our energy harvesters worked using a solution of table salt as the electrolyte,” said Baughman, who holds the Robert A. Welch Distinguished Chair in Chemistry in the School of Natural Sciences and Mathematics. “But we wanted to show that they would also work in ocean water, which is chemically more complex.” In a proof-of-concept demonstration, co-lead author Dr. Shi Hyeong Kim, a postdoctoral researcher at the NanoTech Institute, waded into the frigid surf off the east coast of South Korea to deploy a coiled twistron in the sea. He attached a 10 centimeter-long yarn, weighing only 1 milligram (about the weight of a mosquito), between a balloon and a sinker that rested on the seabed. Every time an ocean wave arrived, the balloon would rise, stretching the yarn up to 25 percent, thereby generating measured electricity. Even though the investigators used very small amounts of twistron yarn in the current study, they have shown that harvester performance is scalable, both by increasing twistron diameter and by operating many yarns in parallel. “If our twistron harvesters could be made less expensively, they might ultimately be able to harvest the enormous amount of energy available from ocean waves,” Baughman said. “However, at present these harvesters are most suitable for powering sensors and sensor communications. Based on demonstrated average power output, just 31 milligrams of carbon nanotube yarn harvester could provide the electrical energy needed to transmit a 2-kilobyte packet of data over a 100-meter radius every 10 seconds for the Internet of Things.”
Researchers from the UT Dallas Erik Jonsson School of Engg & Computer Science and Lintec of America’s Nano-Science & Technology Center also participated in the study. The investigators have filed a patent on the technology. In the U.S., the research was funded by the Air Force, the Air Force Office of Scientific Research, NASA, the Office of Naval Research & the Robert A. Welch Foundation. In Korea, the research was supported by the Korea-U.S. Air Force Cooperation Program & the Creative Research Initiative Center for Self-powered Actuation of the National Research Foundation & the Ministry of Science. NCM-MARCH 2018 16
Kenyan Researchers Collaborating with Chinese Textile Manufacturers Producing Textile Fibre from Wild Fruit Textile manufactures will soon have a new raw material to choose from alongside cotton, silk or wool; an ongoing study on Calotropis procera, a wild plant, has returned favourable results. The plant grows mainly in arid regions -like Baringo, Kajiado, Makueni, Tharaka Nithi and Turkana countiesand its fruits have been found to produce quality fibre. Nation.co.ke reports on the Kenyan scientists collaborating with Chinese textile manufacturers, who have already given the fibre a thumps up. The scientists are studying the ignored plant, which thrives naturally in dry climates, to explore the possibility of domesticating it for the production of fibre. Preliminary findings are that the fruits of Calotropis procera yields fibre with silklike qualities. “We are looking at a super fibre whose qualities fall between that of cotton and silk,” said lead researcher Dr Alice Muchugi. She heads the Genetics Resources Unit at the World Agroforestry Centre (Icraf), the agency coordinating the study. “Our concern has shifted to ensuring that the supply of Calotropis procera fibre is guaranteed to meet the industrial demands and that is why we are exploring domestication of the plant,” she added.
Ms Agnes Gacuiri, a research technician at the World Agroforestry Centre displays a Calotropis Procera fruit at Kyumani Village in Makueni County. Ms Agnes Gacuiri, a research technician at the World Agroforestry Centre displays a Calotropis Procera fruit at Kyumani Village in Makueni County. World Agroforestry Centre scientists are studying the plant, which produces a super textile fibre, with a view of promoting its domestication. The fibre is being shipped to China.
Calotropis procera is a perennial plant with broad evergreen leaves. The fruit is a green pod, measuring about 8-12 cm long, rounded at the base but shortly pointed at the tip and contains numerous seeds. A man harvests the Calotropis Procera fruits at Thange VilThe seeds are brown, flattened and have lage( Makueni County). The plant grows mainly in arid regions. a tuft of long white hair on one end. at Sh1,000. Among the aspects that the scientists are interThe plant grows naturally in Baringo, ested in is the plant’s growth behaviours and how its various Kajiado, Makueni, Tharaka Nithi and types thrive under various climatic conditions. They are also Turkana counties. The scientists have exploring the ways of managing the fibre after it is extracted established demonstration plots in from the plant to curb post-harvest losses. The researchers Makueni and Tharaka Nithi counties are also eager to find out how the plant should be spaced for where domestication of the plant has maximum yield, according to Dr Muchugi. been tested. “Calotropis Procera fibre from Makueni has been of the highest quality,” Joyce Kasyoki, a project manager at Icraf said. They have been working with locals to collect the fibre from the plant’s natural habitat. The scientists are buying the fruits from the collectors
Although the resulting fibre is said to be light, Dr Muchugi is optimistic that its strength and other qualities can be improved over time through genetic engineering. “At this stage, we are working on identifying and selecting the best varieties with a view to improving them in future as the textile producers further study the fibre,” says Dr Muchugi. Once commercialised, farmers would be allowed to grow the plant and sell the fruits.
NCM-MARCH 2018 17
INTERLINING FINISH Interlining and Cuff Fabrics The interlining and cuff fabrics have to be imparted anti-shrink, resilient stiff finish. The recipe used must ensure minimum shrinkage and loss in stiffness during washing at different conditions. Sanforizing of the fabric before treatment will help in obtaining minimum shrink resistance and smoothness of the fabric surface. Addition of starch derivatives is also recommended for obtaining stiffness and addition of an optical brightener in the finishing bath is recommended to improve the whiteness. The effect on 100% cotton fabrics is found to be better than that on Polyester/Cotton blends. Finishing Recipe 115gpl 35gpl 60gpl 80gpl 9gpl 10gpl 3.25gpl
: : : : : : :
Maize Starch Fixer-200 (Melamine Formaldehyde Resin) Unimul-800 (Copolymer of Polyvinyl Acetate Emulsion) Unimul-MB (Plasticised Polyvinyl Acetate Emulsion) MgCl2 Uninol-PEL (Micro Emulsion of Polyethylene Wax Emulsion) Leucophor BFBI (Optical Brightening Agent)
Pigment Blue + Violet as per the whiteners requirement 1cc 2.5gpl
Acetic Acid Wetting Agent
Application Method Stenter Pad Dry with Three Dips & Two Sqeeze Nips Speed 15 Metres Per Minute; 5 Compartment The main function of interlinings is to maintain reasonably good dimensional stability of apparel clothing. Generally, interlinings are made from fabrics consisting of cotton or spun rayon in warp and a rayon blended yarn in weft. Interlining may be described as supporting fabric which must have good firmness, and also the required elasticity and shape retention properties. These properties should remain intact even when the fabric is subjected to washing and dry cleaning. Interlining fabric should have good resistance to shrinkage. The stiffening agent used for finishing interlining cloth should have ability to form an elastic and tough film on the surface of the fabric. This film should withstand stresses caused due to repeated bending. Cotton and its blends with polyester are generally used for collar interlinings which have to be resistant to shrinkage, stiff as well as elastic. For washable apparels these properties should have considerable permanency. The selection of the stiffening agent depends on the properties expected from the finish which in turn depend upon the end usage of the interlinings produced through such finishing. A number of finishing products based on starches and starch derivatives, plastic dispersions, polyvinyl alcohol, dimethylol urea and other compounds are available in the market. One can have a cost effective result oriented recipe through judicious selection of such products depending on the end properties required from a particular interlining finish. The above recipe is just an illustration only. This page is sponsored by :
Kunal Organics Pvt. Ltd. : Leaders in New Generation Textile Processing Chemicals Address : 34, Madhuvan Towers, Madalpur, Ellis Bridge, Ahmedabad-380 006. Fax : 91-79-26409677 Email : email@example.com NCM-MARCH 2018 18
Fashion’s Creativity Includes Technology New York Fashion Week has just wrapped and attendees’ heads are spinning with all the creative confections that were presented by hundreds of designers. Meanwhile, retailers and brand marketers are working overtime using every tidbit of information they can about consumer preferences to give shoppers what they want, when they want it, faster than ever — yet in an engaging and uniquely personalized way. It gives a whole new meaning to creativity. At the National Retail Federation Big Show 2018, Tommy Hilfiger spoke about how his company has embraced technology to keep his brand at the forefront. “We depend on AI (artificial intelligence),” Hilfiger said, “We were the first to do a chatbot with Facebook (Messenger),” he said. “And we really believe in Snap:Shop (an app that lets consumers instantly shop items from the moment models hit the runway). A few years back we decided we needed to be technically advanced with incorporating our DNA into whatever we’re doing.” One of Hilfiger’s latest advances is a digital showroom that has no garments, but allows buyers to view a big screen that they can also view from home. From this, they make their apparel, shoe and accessory selections, put them in the different store doors and choose their floor plans, “and basically in a couple of clicks, have their entire seasons mapped out,” Hilfiger said. “When you have a lot of info in the cloud, with a click it becomes available to you.” While designers might hope their designs alone will sell their product, stores and brands have come to realize higher levels of technology are necessary to build sales both online and in-store. Currently, just over half of all consumers (54 percent) say they love or enjoy clothes shopping, according to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle MonitorTM Survey. Seven of 10 purchases are planned, with shoppers buying clothes 19.2 times per year in-store and 8.4 times online. MonitorTM data shows two of five consumers (43 percent) would be interested in apparel brands and retailers using virtual reality to enhance their shopping experience either online or in a physical store. This percentage increases with younger consumers. But of all the clothes being sold and all the inspiration that’s to be found everywhere, most consumers (63 percent) say their main source for clothing ideas is what they already own and like, according to the MonitorTM research. Also, the largest percentage (24 percent) shop at mass merchants like Walmart and Target, followed by chain stores like JC Penney and Kohl’s (22 percent) and then department stores like Macy’s and Dillard’s (15 percent). That leaves a lot of room for stores to figure out exactly what consumers actually like, and how they want to shop for it. Nancy Johnson, founder, president and CEO of Optimyze, a product development consultancy, says multiple forms of technology are essential to staying competitive in today’s fashion business. “Whether it’s through their marketing, or their stores, or information they’re capturing at their point of sale, all of those types of things are allowing companies to create their competitive advantage by using big NCM-MARCH 2018 19
data,” Johnson said during a panel discussion during New York Fashion Week, presented by the newly launched AFO Collective, a fashion consultancy. Nesli Danisman, founder of Angora Group, a product management consulting firm, was also on the AFO Collective’s panel and mentioned new RFID (radio frequency identification technology) hangers move from the sales floor to checkout to track what individual customers are buying, allowing stores to sculpt future marketing for each particular shopper. Anthony Bruce, CEO, of Applied Predictive Technologies, a MasterCard company, says his firm helps retailers and brands test and learn about any new retail action on a small scale, before doing a full rollout. “Prior to putting in new fixtures or rolling out new product or changing operating hours, our philosophy is try it first,” Bruce explained at the NRF Big Show. That includes more tailored communications with consumers. He explained how data drawn from a test run could prove to be successful. “We have a client that sent out 2 million pieces of marketing, but there were one million versions,” he explained. “This meant, ‘we know you like this brand,’ or ‘you’re much more interested in this category than that category.’ And not surprisingly, it was massively successful. In the test, they did their generic marketing that they always did and compared it to what happened if we talked to people based on what their past purchases were. Not surprisingly, they were 70 percent higher when they did that. In pricing and marketing there will be more of that going forward — and it makes sense.” Beyond data, Optimyze’s Johnson says other applications are helping to put a new spin on the customer experience. “Companies are starting to do things with augmented reality (AR) like AR mirrors that allow you to walk into a fit room and see different things on your body.” To that end, Tabea Soriano Hughes, managing partner at Futuremade, a sustainable fashion consultancy, said Zara was meeting the tech challenge with its new pop-up store in London. “The space is primarily so consumers can go in to place online orders, and make returns and exchanges,” she told the AFO Collective audience. “Associates have big iPads to help customers with selection. But the retail space isn’t for store inventory, but more for larger fitting rooms and interactive mirrors. If you try on one item, the mirror shows other recommendations in suitable sizes and colors.” Customers can check out via the Zara app, with their smartphones or with self-checkout. Delivery can be same- or next-day. Danisman also pointed out that as brands aim to become ever-more personalized, fit is becoming its own science. “LVMH has bought shape-shifting mannequins that expand into multiple sizes to adjust in a much more customized way,” she said. “It’s super exciting to see how that evolves.” For most consumers (75 percent), fit is the top factor when making an apparel purchasing decision, according to MonitorTM research. That goes for whether people are slow to change styles (38 percent) or consider themselves “fashionistas” (36 percent). “Retailers should be more specific in every way we can, to take advantage of patterns of success,” APT’s Bruce said. “And with today’s technology, even though we never truly know, we can better guess what to do in every situation. And those that invest in these tailored and targeted responses are the ones that are going to not just survive, but thrive.” (Courtesy: LifeStyle Monitor, Cotton Inc.) NCM-MARCH 2018 20
Unbelievably Low Cost Antimicrobial Agent Dr. Naresh M. Saraf - F.R.S.C., F.T.I., F.S.D.C., F.A.I.C. of Sarex, India We usually think about textiles to be the clothes we wear but it has changed its trend to functional one. Market research shows that most of us are very conscious about our hygiene and cleanliness. Therefore, textile finishes with added value particularly for medical clothes are greatly appreciated and there is an increasing demand on global scale. The consumers are aware of hygienic life style and there is a necessity of textile product with antimicrobial properties. Textile commodities, especially those made from natural fibers, provide an excellent environment for microorganisms to grow, which can be found almost everywhere and are able to multiply quickly, depending on the moisture, nutrients and temperature. With advent of new technologies and the growing needs of the consumer in the wake of health and hygiene, antimicrobial finish has become inevitable. The application of antimicrobial textile finishes include a wide range of Most textile materials currently used in hospitals and hotels are conducive to cause cross infection or transmission of diseases caused by microorganisms. Microbes such as bacteria, viruses, fungi and yeast are present almost everywhere. Human beings have an immune system to protect against accumulation of microorganisms but material such as textiles can easily be colonized by high numbers of microbes or even decomposed by them. Textiles are carriers of microorganisms such as pathogenic bacteria, odour- generating bacteria, mould and fungi. Antimicrobials enhance the functionality and value of textile products by keeping the microorganisms that cause odour and fibre degradation under control. Antimicrobial fabrics are not only important in medical application but also in daily use conditions. There is a great demand for antimicrobial textiles based on ecofriendly agents which not only help to reduce effectively the ill effects associated due to microbial growth on textile material but also comply with statutory requirements imposed by regulating agencies. But recently there are lot of attraction towards natural based herbs as an antimicrobial agent because of its eco friendly and health hazardless. Though the use of antimicrobials have been known for the decades, it is only the recent couple of years, several attempts have been made on finishing textiles with antimicrobial compounds. Antimicrobial finish prevents the growth of bacteria, health protecting, preventing diseases. Clothing and textile materials are not only the carriers of microorganisms such as pathogenic bacteria, odour generating bacteria and mould fungi, but also good media for the growth of the microorganisms. Among various functional ability the antimicrobial property of fabric is being considered to be important with garments, which are in direct contact with human body. Need for anti-microbial finish •
To control the infestation by microbes
To avoid cross infection by pathogenic micro organisms
To arrest metabolism in microbes in order to reduce the formation odour
To safeguard the textile products from staining, discoloration and quality deterioration
Requirements for antimicrobial finish Textile materials, in particular the garments are more susceptible to wear and tear. It is important to take into account the impact of stress strain, thermal and mechanical effects on the finished substrates. The following requirements need to be satisfied to obtain maximum benefits out of the finish: 1. Durability to washing, dry-cleaning and hot pressing.
NCM-MARCH 2018 21
2. Should not produce harmful effects to the manufacturer, user and the environment
3. Compatibility with the chemical processes 4. Easy method of application. No deterioration of fabric quality 5. Resistant to body fluids; and resistant to disinfections/sterilization Solution from Sarex: Understanding the requirement of the end users, Sarex has developed a unique low cost antimicrobial agent Saraguard-FL. Saraguard-FL is a methanol free antimicrobial agent for finishing cellulosic substrate. It can be applied by padding, exhaust, soaking and spraying methods. SaraguardFL is a non-leaching antimicrobial agent. It is effective against broad spectrum of microbes. Saraguard-FL is based on Quaternary ammonium compounds and fibres finished with these substances bind micro organisms to their cell membrane and disrupt the lipo-polysaccharide structure resulting in the breakdown of the cell, thus providing antimicrobial effect. Unique Features
Method of application
Substrate : 100% Cotton fabric
Durable to multiple home launderings
Padding process :
Works on all types of microbes such as Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli
Does not affect the hydrophilicity of the fabrics
Saraguard-FL Pick-up Bath pH Drying
: : : :
50gpl 65-70 % 5.0-6.0 150oC for 2 min.
Antimicrobial Testing: Samples treated with Saraguard-FL were evaluated using AATCC 100.
Saraguard-FL show effective Antimicrobial property upto 50 Home Launderings (HL).
First row = Untreated; Second row = 50g/l Saraguard-FL
“In three words I can sum up everything I’ve learned about life: it goes on.” - Robert Frost NCM-MARCH 2018 22
Open End Spinbox Components from BASANT WIRE First ever facility in India for manufacturing of international quality OE spinbox spares For use on Schlaforst Autocoro, Rieter, Saurer, Saurer/Oerlikon, LR, & Elitex machines Innovative & cost effective solutions suited for Indian market Very competitively priced and comparable in life & performance with European makes Jaipur, Rajasthan based Basant Wire Industries Pvt. Ltd. are specialist manufacturers and technology solution providers as well as exporters of high precision pins, needles and pinned products for applications in textiles and nonwovens. They are now offering import substitute products like Open End (OE) spinbox components and pinned sleeves for perforation and fibrillation. "The new production facility was established because there was a need for an Indian supplier, who could provide world class quality OE machine components at economical prices, while ensuring faster deliveries and quicker service" Mr Kishore Khaitan, Managing Director at Basant said. The Open End Opening Rollers and Clothing Rings are manufactured at a new and highly automated state-of-the-art plant, the first such advanced and comprehensive facility in India for manufacturing and servicing of OE spares.
The spanking new facility has been set up in collaboration with Stewarts of America Inc., USA, a world leader and an innovative solutions provider, specialising in pins and pinned products, technical textiles and perforating technologies. "OE market being very competitive, textile mills need to achieve high quality and efficiency with lower maintenance costs and additionally, they needed solutions suited to local conditions. This was the main objective behind setting up the manufacturing facility, as we can now offer customised solutions, through our own facility and service infrastructure", Mr. Khaitan explained. The new products offered by Basant are for use on all models of Schlaforst Autocoro, Rieter R,M and BT series; Saurer/Oerlikon/Schlaforst series; LR M1/2; Elitex BD200 (RN, SN, RCE, 10N, 20N), among others. The open end spinbox components offer a superior value proposition as they are priced much lower than European makes for comparable performance and the additional cost when compared to Asian products is significant when compared to gains in life and quality. Additionally, Basant provides several innovative and customised solutions to resolve challenges faced by textile mills, with respect to quality, product and fibre mix; and ease of replacement.
Basant provides wire remounting and rotor reconditioning services and the reconditioning is done with a high level of precision, which ensures life and performance comparable with new, resulting in huge savings in replacement costs. Further elaborating, Mr. Khaitan said, “The response from the Indian market is very encouraging, and we are glad that we have been able to add value to their processes through our international quality products and value-added services and expertise provided through Stewarts’ decades of specialisation and knowhow in this field. We are already doing business with many of the leading players in Open End spinning in India, while trials of our superior solutions are underway at most others. In some cases, we have enabled clients take out more than a year’s extra life from components they were ready to throw away!” Through its international network, Basant also offers genuine spinbox spares (new as well as pre-owned) for older machines, according to the needs of the clients.
About BASANT: With an illustrious history of more than 50 years, Basant manufactures the world's widest range of high precision pins, needles and pinned products for applications in textile, nonwoven, perforation and fibrillation machinery. The company is a leading and the most experienced manufacturer of fine pins in India and exports a significant part of its production to over 35 countries worldwide.
Contact details: Basant Wire Industries Pvt. Ltd. E-418, Road No. 14, V. K. I. Area, Jaipur – 302013 (Rajasthan) Email: firstname.lastname@example.org NCM-MARCH 2018 23
Colourtex Recipe (Processing Sequence) for Wet Processing of Kimaya Saree (Single Pass Method) Fabric Details : Warp - 80/72/1750 Twist S.D. Roto 2S & 2Z. Weft - 80/72/1750 Twist S.D. Roto 2S & 2Z. Reed - 84/2 Pick - 64 Width - 51" Gross Wt.- 8.200 Ends - 4700 Process Sequence :
Druming (3600 mts) Cold Wash for 30 mins. Drain Levocol JD Levocol CHWS Caustic Soda
1500 gms. 1000 gms. 3000 gms.
At 130 C/2 Hrs.
Cold wash (20 min) Drain Jet Dyeing M/c. (3600 mts) – Weight Reduction Levocol CHWS Caustic Soda
1500 gms 2 -3 gms per meter. (6 – 8 kgs.)
110 C for 45 min
Drain and hot/cold wash. HCL Oxalic acid
4000 gms 1000 gms
90 C for 30 min
Cold rinse Levocol PB
Heat Setting Levocol PB Levocl CAN
500 gms 100 gms for 100 lits
190 C for 30- 45 sec. Shrinkage 15 – 16 %
Print – Dry at 140 C – Loop/Fixation at 170 C for 8 mins. Reduction Clearing and Hydro extract as per standard procedure Finishing on Stenter : Levofin SBI Levofin LF
1.0 % 0.5 %
175 C for 30 secs. And Zero – Zero Finish and Folding.
This page is sponsored by : Colourtex Industries Pvt. Ltd.
Email : email@example.com Website : www.colourtex.co.in
Colourtex Industries Pvt. Ltd. Surat This information is provided in good faith, to the best of our knowledge and without liabilities NCM-MARCH 2018 24
List Of Industrial Entrepreneurs' Memorandum (Textile & Allied Sectors) (Filed From : 01/01/2018 to : 31/01/2018) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NA : Manufacture Of New Article, NU : Establishment Of A New Undertaking, SE : Effecting Substantial Expansion Name of Undertaking/Address & Location
Item of Manufacture
Proposed Annual Capacity
THE ANDHRA SUGARS LIMITED CASUSTIC SODA 66000.000 TPA FACTORY ROAD, VEKATARAYAPURAM, TANUKU, WEST GODAVARI, ANDHRA PRADESH-534215 SE LOCATION: CHEMICAL& FERTILIZER AREA GOPALAPURAM MANDAL, W. GODAVARI, ANDHRA PRADESH ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
VISHWAA APPARELS READY MADE GARMENTS 2000000.000 NOS NO.3 & 4 12TH A MN RD, KODICHIKNAHALLI RD, BOMMANAHALLI, BANGALORE (U) KARNATAKA-560068 NU LOCATION: SY#297/4,297/2, IP GANGAVARAM MANDAAL, CHITTOOR, ANDHRA PRADESH ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MADHUSUDAN THREADS MFG. OF M/CS FOR WASHING, 68, RADHEY MARKET, RING RD, BLEACHING, DYG., FINISHING SURAT, GUJARAT-395002 GM COATING REELING , ETC. LOCATION: PLOT#11TO20 & 61 TO 70 TEHSIL PALSANA, SURAT, GUJARAT
SHYAMAARNAV SPINFAB PVT. LTD. PREPARATION AND SPINNING 501, NARAYAN CHAMBERS, NR NEHRU BRIDGE, OF COTTON FIBER INCLUDING ASHRAM RD, AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT-380009 NU BLENDED COTTON LOCATION: BLOCK#1105, KANKAJ, DASCROI, AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT
OLIVE INDUSTRIES FINISHING OF MAN - MADE & SHIVE BUNGLOW,16, SARDAR PATEL SOCIETY, BLENDED MAN-MADE NEAR JEWELS CIRCLE, BOR TALAV, TEXTILES BHAVNAGAR,GUJARAT-364003 NU LOCATION: PLOT NO. PE-41, SANAND, AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT
100.000 METRIC T TONS
OLIVE INDUSTRIES ADDRESS SAME AS ABOVE NU LOCATION: SAME AS ABOVE
MFG. OF OTHER TEXTILES/ TEXTILES PRODUCTS N.E.C.
60.000 METRIC TONS
OLIVE INDUSTRIES ADDRESS SAME AS ABOVE NU LOCATION: SAME AS ABOVE
PREPARATION & SPINNING OF MNF INCL. BLENDED MMF
100.000 METRIC TONS
EAGLE SIZERS SIZED YARN OFFICE NO.201, ORLEAANS BUILDING, NEAR CITY CENTER UDHNA MAGDALLA RD, SURAT, GUJARAT-395007 GM LOCATION: BLOCK NO.49, UDHNA, SURAT, GUJARAT
AKSHAR SPINTEX LIMITED REV. SUR.NO. 102/2 PAIKI, RANUJA ROAD, PLOT NO.2, TAL. KALAVAD, VILL. HARIPUR, JAMNAGAR,GUJARAT-361013 CO LOCATION: SAME AS ABOVE
COTTON YARN 30 SNE COMBED
SPARSH FABRICS PRIVATE LIMITED WEAVING MFG. OF COTTON 301 SWAMINARAYAN PLAZA-1, AND COTTON MIXTURE NR. NAROL CIRCLE, NAROL, FABRICS AHMEDABAD,GUJARAT-382405 GM LOCATION: S.NO.127, BHARAT MILL, NAROL, AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT
BALAJI LOOMTEX PVT. LTD. MANUFACTURE OF BLNAKETS 2000000.000 A-601, HIND APARTMENT, PCS SEC-5, DWARKA, DELHI-110075 NU LOCATION: BAPOI NIMBRI ROAD, TEHSIL BEHRAMPUR, PANIPAT, HARYANA ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AKASH HOME FURNISHING PVT. LTD. COTTON FABRICS H.NO.77, PLOT NO.3, SEC-15, ROHINI, DELHI-110085 NU LOCATION: VILL. BALANA, BALANA, PANIPAT, HARYANA
NCM-MARCH 2018 25
Name of Undertaking/Address & Location
Item of Manufacture
Proposed Annual Capacity
PIONEER EMBROIDERIES LIMITED SYNTHERIC OR ARIFICIAL 9000.000 UNIT NO.21-25, 2ND FLR, ORIENTAL HOUSE 3A, FILAMENT YARN, WHETHER TONS UDYOG NAGAR, OFF SV ROAD LANE, OR NOT TEXTRISED HIGH OPP. MTNL, MUMBAI -400062 SE TENACITY MULTIPLE/CABLED LOCATION: NEAR PNB, VILL-KHERI, KHERI(KALA AMB, SIRMUR, HIMACHAL PRADESH ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SHAHI EXPORTS PRIVATE LIMITED READYMADE GARMENTS 2500000.000 F-88,OKHLA INDL.AREA, PH-1, PCS OKHLA, DELHI-110020 NA LOCATION: SY NO.51/3, 52/2, 51/2 TEHSIL KORATGERE TALUK, TUMKUR, KARNATAKA ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QUAL5 INDIA PVT. LTD. 53, CHINNAPANAHALLI, KARNASHREE POINT, 2ND FLR, ANAND NAGAR,NR. KALAMANDIR MARATHAHALLI, BANGALORE (U)-560037 NA LOCATION: SAME AS ABOVE
GRASIM INDUSTRIES LIMITED CAUSTIC SODA CHEMICAL DIVISION KARWAR, BILRAGRAM, NAGDA, MADHYA PRADESH-456331 SE LOCATION: CHEMICAL DIVISION, TEHSIL KARWAR, UTTARA KANNADA, KARNATAKA
MANTRAM TECHNOFAB PVT. LTD. A.B. ROAD, NEAR GAYATRI ASHRAM, JAMLI, SENDHWA, BARWANI-451666 (M.P.) SE LOCATION: SAME AS ABOVE
NAHAR POLY FILMS LTD. BIAXIALLY ORIENTED 30000.000 NAHAR TOWER, 376,INDL.AREA-A, POLYPROPYLENE FILM (BOPP ) MT CHEEMA CHOWK, LUDHIANA, PUNJAB-141003 NU LOCATION: N.P.F. LTD UNIT-II, SARAKIA, RAISEN (MANDIDEEP) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MOHINI HEALTH AND HYGIENE LIMITED PLOT NO.109, SEC.NO.3, ICD PITHAMPUR SEC NO.3, INDL. AREA, PITHAMPUR, DHAR, MADHYA PRADESH-454774 SE
SURGICAL, ABSORBENT AND 2000.000 BLEACHED COTTON INCL. TON ABSORBENT COTTON WOOL, COTTON BALLS/EAR BUDS, ZIG ZAG COTTON, GAMJEE ROLLS & OTHER SURGICAL ITEMS
LOCATION: SAME AS ABOVE ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MAHI TERRY COT LLP TOWEL 116 ACKRUTI STAR, MIDC CENTRAL RD, MIDC, ANDHERI EAST, MUMBAI-400093 NU LOCATION: T-24, NANDGAON PETH, AMRAVATI, MAHARASHTRA
DR. BABASAHEB AMBEDKAR MAGASWARGIYA YARN SAHAKARI SUTGIRNI MARYADIT, NAGPUR S.S.F.#302 3RD FLR, YES BANK, GPO SQ, CIVIL LINES, NAGPUR, MAHARASHTRA-440001 NU LOCATION: PLOT#D4 MIDC PH-II, TEHSIL BHANSOLI, NAGPUR, MAHARASHTRA
SUKHJIT CORN PRODUCTS (A UNIT OF THE MAIZE STARCH OF THE SUKHJIT STARCH& CHEMICAL LTD.) INSIDE S.M.F. PARK, P.H. RD, REHANA JATTAN, TH-PHAGWAR-A, KAPURTHALA, PUNJAB144407 OT LOCATION: SAME AS ABOVE
LAGNAM SPINTEX LTD. COTTON SPINNING IN MILLS 29 KAMLA ENCLAVE, CHITTOR RD., BHILWARA,RAJASTHAN-311001. SE LOCATION: L.S. PVT. LTD, A-53, HAMIRGARH, BHILWARA, RAJASTHAN
COLORS SULZER PVT. LTD. COTTON FABRICS E-4, GROUND FLOOR, PUR RD, E BLOCK, BHILWARA TEXTILE MARKET, BHILWARA, RAJASTHAN-311001 SE LOCATION: F-481, 482, R.G.CENTER, BHILWARA, RAJASTHAN
NCM-MARCH 2018 26
Name of Undertaking/Address & Location
Item of Manufacture
Proposed Annual Capacity
V.S.P. INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. WEAVING MANUFACTURE OF 12/2 KURANGPUDUR, 1ST STREET, COTON & COOTON MIXTURE PALLIPALAYAM, ERODE, TAMIL NADU-638006 NU FABRICS LOCATION: SF NO.333 TO 336, PADAIVEEDU, NAMAKKAL, TAMIL NADU
THE RAJLAKSHMI COTTON MILLS PVT. LTD. MANUFACTURE OF WEARING 234/3A, FORTUNA BUILDING, A.J.C. BOSE RD, APPAREL NR. NIZAM PALACE, W.B. PARK, KOLKATA, WEST BENGAL-700020 NU LOCATION: S-2/1, GREATER NOIDA, GAUTAM BUDDHA NAGAR, UTTAR PRADESH
JAIN CORD INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. KHATA NO. 431, TEHSIL-CHHATA, CHANDORI RD, DOHTANA, MATHURA-281403 (U.P.) NU LOCATION: SAME AS ABOVE
SAMOSARAN YARNS PRIVATE LIMITED ALL TYPE OF YARN BY 41/42, LIBERTY BUILDING, 2ND FLR, SPINNING INCLUDING NEW MARINE LINES, NR. BOMBAY HOSPITAL, COTTON YARN MUMBAI, MAHARASHTRA-400020 NU LOCATION: PLOT#4OF SR#65,SR#64, SILVASSA, DADRA & NAGAR HAVELI
BHILOSA INDUSTRIES PVT. LTD. FULLY DRAWN YARN (FDY) 216000.000 SY. NO.14/1/2, VILL-RAKHOLI, SILVASSA, TON DADRA AND NAGAR HAVELI-396230 NU LOCATION: S. #199, 201/2, 202/1/3 3TO5,&SY#202, NAROLI, SILVASSA, DADRA & NAGAR HAVELI
CAPSTONE POLYWEAVE PVT. LTD. PP/PE WOVEN FABRICS AND SP4-319(A), KAROLI INDL. AREA, BAGS KHUSKHERA, KAROLI, TIJARA, AJMER, RAJASTHAN-301707 NU LOCATION: C-3/5, PRASHANT VIHAR, ROHINI, DELHI
List Of Industrial Entrepreneurs' Production Memorandum (Textile & Allied Sectors) (Acknowledged From : 01/01/2018 to : 31/01/2018) JAIDAYAL HITEX PVT. LTD. PP WOVEN SACKS BAG 4950000.000 S 18/2E, AF 2/17, IMLAK COLONY, AND FABRIC KG NEAR TAJ GANGEJ, NADESAR, VARANASI, UTTAR PRADESH-221002. NU MEMORANDUM NO.: 122 DATE: 27/01/2017 PRODN. COMMENCED ON : 22/01/2018 LOCATION: BIHAR ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
RAVI EXPORTS LTD. WEAVING AND PROCESSING 6500000.000 147 TO 162 SAGAR TEXTILE MARKET, OF MANMADE FABRICS METERS CHORYASI, SURAT, GUJARAT 395 002 SE MEMORANDUM NO.: 1007 DATE: 30/04/2012 PRODN COMMENCED ON : 01/11/2002 LOCATION: SURAT, ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SUMILON INDUSTRIES LIMITED VAIRGI NI WADI, DELHI GATE, CHAURIYASI SURAT, GUJARAT-395003. NU MEMORANDUM NO.:
METALIC YARN JARI KASAB SUPPORTED METLLIC YARNS, IMITATION ZARI THREAD
PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON : 01/10/2013 LOCATION: SURAT
RAGHAV COTSPIN PVT. LTD. NAGADKA ROAD, 8-B N.H. BEHIND ITI, GONDAL, RAJKOT-360311 GUJARAT. NU MEMORANDUM NO.: 1175
COTTON YARN SPINNING
PRODN. COMMENCED ON : 07/06/2017 LOCATION: RAJKOT
SKY SPINTEX PRIVATE LIMITED 3, 2ND FLOOR, NEW INDIA COLONY ROAD, SUKETU COMPLEX, NEW NIKOL, AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT - 382350. NU MEMORANDUM NO.: 1211 DATE: 10/08/2015
PREPARATION AND SPINNING OF COTTON FIBER INCUDING BLENDED COTTON.
PRODN. COMMENCED ON : 01/04/2017 LOCATION: GUJARAT
SHINE COT SPIN PRIVATE LIMITED SHOP NO.22 CO MARUTI, SATYAM COMPLEX, DHRANGADHRA MALIYA, HALVAD MORBI, GUJARAT-363330 NU MEMORANDUM NO.: 1466
PREPARATION AND SPINNING OF COTTON FIBER INCLUDING BLENDED COTTON
PRODN COMMENCED ON : 27/12/2016 LOCATION: GUJARAT
NCM-MARCH 2018 27
LEASPIN TEXTILE LLP C/O. LEAMAK HEALTH CARE P. LTD. SARKHEJ-BAVLA HIGHWAY, MATODA, AHEMDABAD, GUJARAT-382213 NU MEMORANDUM NO.:
MANUFACTURE OF COTTON BALES PREPRATION OF SPINNING OF COTTON
PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON : 08/08/2017 LOCATION: GUJARAT
AJAY COTSPIN INDUSTRIES PLOT NO.1143, PHASE-1, GIDC, NR RIYA HYNDAI SERVICE, MEHSANA, GUJARAT - 384002. NU MEMORANDUM NO.:
COTTON YARN AND COTTON YARN THREAD
PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON : 15/04/2017 LOCATION: MEHSANA
PARTH INTERNATIONAL PVT LTD. 4, NEW CLOTH MARKET, O/S RAIPUR GATE, AHMEDABAD, GUJARAT - 380002 NU
FINISHING OF COTTON AND BELENDED COTTON
MEMORANDUM NO: 1373 DATE: 28/07/2016 PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON : 01/04/2016 LOCATION: AHMEDABAD ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NRV YARNS PVT. LTD. C/O YASH SALES, ATKOT ROAD, NEAR NEW BUS STAND, OPP. HDFC BANK, ASDAN, RAJKOT, GUJARAT - 360050 NU MEMORANDUM NO.: 1889
PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON : 11/08/2017LOCATION: RAJKOT
OMKAR TEXTILE MILLS PVT. LTD. 260 NEW CLOTH MARKET, O/S. RAIPUR GATE, AHMEDABAD-380002. CO MEMORANDUM NO.: 123
FINISHING OF COTTON AND BLENDED COTTON TEXTILES
DATE: 27/01/2017 PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON : 25/09/2014 LOCATION: AHMEDABAD
VAISHNAVI COTFAB LLP 114, NEW CLOTH MARKET, O/S RAIPUR GATE, AHMEDABAD-380002 NU
WEAVING OF GREY CLOTH COTTON CLOTH
MEMORANDUM NO.: 1967 DATE: 29/12/2017 PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON : 30/08/2017 LOCATION: AHMEDABAD ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PIONEER EMBROIDERIES LTD. UNIT 101B, 1ST FLOOR, ABHISHEK PREMISES, PLOT NO.C-5-6, DALIA IND. ESTATE, OFF LINK RD, ANDHERI (W), MUMBAI-400058 NU
MEMORANDUM NO.: 31DATE: 05/01/2012 PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON: 10/02/2012 LOCATION: SIRMUR, HIMACHAL ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
RSPL LTD. 119, 120, 121 (PART), BLOCK P & T, FAZAL GANJ, KANPUR-208012. (UP) NA
MEMORANDUM NO.: 3679 DATE: 27/12/2007 PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON : 28/12/2007 LOCATION: SAGAR (M.P.) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
KRISHNA PHOSCHEM LTD. 5-O-2 BASEMENT, R C VYAS COLONY BHILWARA-311001 RAJASTHAN NA MEMORANDUM NO.: 728
DATE: 15/05/2015 PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON : 01/10/2017 LOCATION: JHABUA (MP)
LAGNAM SPINTEX PVT. LTD. 17, HEERA PANNA MARKET, PUR ROAD, BHILWARA, RAJASTHAN 311 001 NU MEMORANDUM NO.: 3249
DATE: 19/10/2011 PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON : 01/04/2012 LOCATION: BHILWARA
COLORS SULZER PVT. LTD., E-4, GROUND FLR, BHILWARA TEXTILE MARKET BHILWARA, RAJASTHAN - 311001 SE MEMORANDUM NO.: 452
WEAVING, MANUFACTURE OF COTTON & COTTON MIXTURE FABRICS
DATE: 15/03/2016 PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON : 01/01/2016 LOCATION: BHILWARA
SRI CHERAN SYNTHETICS INDIA PVT LTD. 24, SANKARI BYE PASS ROAD, PALLIPALAYAM, ERODE 638006, TAMIL NADU. NU MEMORANDUM NO.: 1949 DATE: 17/04/2006
SPINNING OF STAPLE FIBRE IN MILLS
PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON : 24/12/2006 LOCATION: ERODE (TN)
SHRI VARU POLYTEX PRIVATE LIMITED B25/33/221, JAWAHAR NAGAR EXTENSION, NEAR DURGA MANDIR, BHELUPUR, VARANASI (UP) NU
PP WOVEN SACK BAGS & FABRICS
MEMORANDUM NO: 773 DATE: 11/05/2017 PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON: 01/09/2017 LOCATION: CHANDOULI (UP) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AMRIT CRAFTS PVT. LTD. 1 BRITISH INDIAN STREET, ROOM NO. 605, KOLKATA, WEST BENGAL-700069. NU
MEMORANDUM NO.: 218 DATE: 13/02/2017 PRODUCTION COMMENCED ON : 14/12/2017 LOCATION: NORTH 24PARAGANAS (WB) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
NCM-MARCH 2018 28
NCM-MARCH 2018 29
DHARLI FASHIONS PVT LTD C-6, 6TH FLOOR, SWAMI VIVEKANAND CHS, VEERA DESAI RD, AZAD NAGAR NO. 3 ANDHERI WEST MUMBAI-400058 SHAILESH.SONKHEDKAR3@GMAIL.COM
DENIM VISTARA GLOBAL PVT LTD 1405, GREENWOOD CHSL, HIRANANDANI EST PATLI PADA, GHODBUNDER ROAD THANE MH 400607 VISHNUMUDIRAJ2020@GMAIL.COM
DELLO OUTWEAR PRIVATE LIMITED JYOTINAGAR, OPPOSITE COSMOS MALL SEVOKE ROAD, WARD NO. 41 SILIGURI JALPAIGURI WB 734001 KHAN.MNSAQUIB@GMAIL.COM
DAXTEN FOOTWEAR PVT LTD HOUSE NO 27 S/F, KH NO. 75/11/17 ARVIND ENCLAVE MUNDKA NEAR KAUSHIK GAS AGENCY DELHI-110041 RHLSRIVASTAVA006@GMAIL.COM
DANDYMAN FASHION PVT LTD PLOT NO.81, KH NO-79/14,CHANCHAL PARK, BAKKARWALA, POLE NO-MDKB924 NR SUDHANSHU ASHRAM, DELHI-110041 RELIABLE.VINAY@GMAIL.COM
DAMO FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED H NO 1352 S.NO 13 SINHAGAD ROAD, WATER TANK PUNE MH 411041 MUSHTAQUETAMBOLI@GMAIL.COM
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CYANON POLYMERS PRIVATE LIMITED H.NO. J-41/G-1, DELSNAD COLONY EAST DELHI-110095 SUBHASHKERUR@YAHOO.CO.IN
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BLOND LION APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED C-454, RAJASWA NAGAR SOLAPUR MH 413004 MOHANDOSS.M@LNTTECHSERVICES.COM
BHADRAWATI TEXTILE INDUSTRIES PRIVATE LIMITED D 45/3, MIDC, AKKALKOT ROAD, SOLAPUR MH 413006 MCA@AKMGLOBAL.COM
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ANRM TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED D-1/45, SECTOR-52, NOIDA GAUTAM BUDH NAGAR UP 201301 CASPARKS.IN@GMAIL.COM
ANGELPARI UNDERGARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED G-23 SUBHASH NAGAR SHOPPING CENTRE, SHASTRI NAGAR JAIPUR RJ 302016 PRABHA_C_JOSHI@YAHOO.IN
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ALTRA FOOTWEAR PRIVATE LIMITED 6C/32C/4, GALI NO. 4, AZAD NAGAR, KHANDARI, CIVIL LINE, AGRA UP 282002 CATUSHARVERMA@GMAIL.COM
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ALFIYA FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED 35, DR. H K CHATTERJEE LANE, HOWRAH WB 711107 GUPTA7ASHUTOSH@GMAIL.COM
AKSHRADI FOOTWEARS (OPC) PVT LTD FLAT NO 203, BLDG NO F.G.NO 118/5A SUPREME AANGAN HSG. SOC. BAIF RD, WAGHOLI, PUNE-412307 SLGVIGYAPAN@GMAIL.COM
AJJM FASHIONGLOBE PVT LTD HOUSE NO. 51A, BLOCK-WZ, LANDMARK NEAR M-BLOCK, MOTHER DAIRY VILLAGE, SHAKURPUR DELHI-110034 SHAKTIK06@GMAIL.COM
AHELI LIFESTYLE CLOTHING PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO.94, RAVI ENCLAVE KONDAPUR HYDERABAD TG 500084 SG.RAJVIJAY@GMAIL.COM
ADIENT ARVIND AUTOMOTIVE FABRICS INDIA PVT LTD ARVIND LTD PREMISES, SANTEJ/KHATRAJ INDL COMPLEX PO KHATRAJ, TAL KALOL GJ 382721 KANNAN1551@GMAIL.COM
ABIOTEX TEXTILE CHEMICALS PRIVATE LIMITED PVT-1923, (1922-1923), NEAR MASJID PANA MAMURPUR, NARELA, DELHI 110040 SWADHIN@ANGELINFOCOMM.NET
New Textile & Allied Companies Registered with the Registrars of Companies in India (February 2018)
NCM-MARCH 2018 30
KASRR DESIGNS PRIVATE LIMITED PROPERTY NO.18/1, SECOND FLOOR, BLOCK-2, WHS, KIRTI NAGAR INDL AREA NEW DELHI-110015 HARISHGODSEEGAT@MAIL.COM
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KARANT DESIGN (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED B-9, FIRST FLOOR SECTOR 50 NOIDA GAUTAM BUDDHA NAGAR UP 201301 ASSOCIATECONSULTANCY@GMAIL.COM
KANKUBA TEXOFAB PVT LTD PLOT NO.1, RUPALI CO OP H SOC-1 NR P.P. SAVANI SCHOOL, HIRABAUG, VARACHHA SURAT GJ 395006 DEEPAKLODHI488@GMAIL.COM
KANCHIPURAM SABTHAGIRI SILKS SAREES PVT LTD RANI MEYYAMAL HALL, SANGAM COMPLEX PHOENIX BAY, PORT BLAIR ANDAMAN ISLANDS AN 744101 EANIL26@GMAIL.COM
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KABRA YARNS PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO. 221, SECTOR-29 PART-2, HUDA PANIPAT HR 132103 ROBINK099@GMAIL.COM
JOSHPIN TEXTILES INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED D.NO.8, ASHAR NAGAR, NORTH 1ST STREET SENBAKKAM STREET TIRUPUR TN 641603 SHAILESH1UP@GMAIL.COM
JAMUNI POLYMERS PRIVATE LIMITED C/O-PASPAT RAY WARD NO-13, CHANDRAHIYA MUZAFFARPUR BR 844127 DHRU18SHAH@GMAIL.COM
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HOMETEXTILE EXPORTERS WELFARE ASSOCIATION OFFICE NO. 303, T/FLOOR, PROP NO. D-246/10, LAXMI NAGAR, NEW DELHI-110092 CANITISHMANIAR@GMAIL.COM
HOMELAND FASHION & LIFESTYLES PVT LTD F. NO.3505, 35TH FLR, C WING, DB WOODS KRISHNA VATIKA MARG, GOREGAON EAST MUMBAI-400063 ASKRCO@YAHOO.COM
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HASAN DYE CHEM PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO - D 209, IRON & STEEL MARKET, SANTHANGADU, MANALI, CHENNAI THIRUVALLUR TN 600068 BUPINDERKUMAR@GMAIL.COM
HARUKI CLOTHING (OPC) PVT LTD B/9, THIRD FLOOR, STC SOCIETY NS PHADKE MARG, WESTERN EXPRESS HIGHWAY, ANDHERI EAST, MUMBAI-400069 CA.AAMIRMUMTAZ@GMAIL.COM
HABILIMENT FABRICATIONS PRIVATE LIMITED 8/28, 3RD FLOOR ABDUL AZIZ ROAD, WEA, KAROL BAGH NEW DELHI-110005 P11KARTIKL@IIMA.AC.IN
GMAC APPAREL PRIVATE LIMITED 27/A4/1, NEHRU STREET, 15 VELAMPALAYAM, TIRUPPUR TN 641652 KAVIYAKULDEEPSINGH@GMAIL.COM
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GCS FABRICS INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED 6/1 FIRST FLOOR SRI VIGNESH NAGAR VILANKURICHI ROAD COIMBATORE TN 641035 MANSOOR@ELEMENTDSP.COM
GARVANSH REDESIGN STITCHING SOLUTIONS PRIVATE LIMITED 321, MILINDA MANOR 2 RNT MARG INDORE MP 452001
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FITSBITS APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED C/O JASBER SINGH S/O SAMPURAN SINGH KANDAOLI, KURUKSHETRA HARYANA 136156 MONU.SAINI896@GMAIL.COM
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ENVIROGRUEN POLYMERS (OPC) PVT LTD F-5,SUBRAMANYA FLATS, 6TH STREET, RAM NAGAR, NANGANALLUR KANCHEEPURAM TN 600061 BANSAL24CS@GMAIL.COM
ELLIMA FASHION & RETAIL PRIVATE LIMITED HOUSE NO: 13/18B THURUVELLIL HOUSE, P O PEECHI THRISSUR KL 680653 TRENCHROOMTECH@GMAIL.COM
DIAGONAL DESIGN RETAIL PRIVATE LIMITED #283, 11TH MAIN, 4TH BLOCK, KORMANGALA, BANGALORE-560034 SARKAR.SHANKAR@GMAIL.COM
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PINKZZ DESIGNERS PRIVATE LIMITED 508 JAWAHAR NAGAR NR CIVIL LINE AMBALA CITY HR 134003 RAJESHKAN@GMAIL.COM
PINAZ TEXFAB PRIVATE LIMITED 181/1/6-7, SHAHWADI, NAROL AHMEDABAD-382405 KBGINDIA2000@GMAIL.COM
PARASOURCE TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED S NO-611/1 G/F GALI GHANTESHWAR KATRA NEEL CHANDNI CHOWK DELHI-110006 KUNALSHWETA02@GMAIL.COM
NIJANAND FABRICS PRIVATE LIMITED FLAT NO. B-201, ANUSHTHAN RESIDENCY, PEDAR ROAD, MOTA VARACHHA, SURAT-394101 INFO@LOANMONEY.IN
NCD FASHION AND LIFESTYLE PRIVATE LIMITED #57, RUDRAKSH METAL BOX 36TH CROSS, JAYANAGAR 4TH T BLOCK BNAGALORE-560011 SHIDHRAAJ@REDIFFMAIL.COM
NATO GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED Z-2/387, S/F, WELCOME, SEEMAPURI-III, DELHI-110053 RAJUUPADHYAY77@GMAIL.COM
NARMADA POLYMERS MANESAR LIMITED P NO 18 SEC -4 IMT MANESAR GURGAON HR 122050 MANISHTAXSOLUTIONS@GMAIL.COM
NAPTU GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED 116/24, EAGAVALLIAMMAN KOIL STREET, TIRUVOTTRIYUR, CHENNAI-600019 KAVITARJOSHI@GMAIL.COM
MRUG DESIGNS PRIVATE LIMITED A-709,FLOOR-7, PLOT-CSNO-749, 8/216 4A, NEW HIND MILL COMPD, MAZGAON, MUMBAI-400010 RAJANRAJESH46@GMAIL.COM
MOUNT EVEREST COLOURS PRIVATE LIMITED GALLA MANDI ROAD WARD NO. 02, LAHAR BHIND MP 477445 ALIAKHTARKHAN5426@GMAIL.COM
MOJAYU GLOBAL APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED S-550/51 SCHOOL BLOCK SHAKARPUR EAST DELHI-110092 CMARAHULJAIN@GMAIL.COM
MODELENO GEETS FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO 236/395 SECTOR 73 NOIDA GAUTAM BUDDHA NAGAR UP 201301 ONTAXCO@GMAIL.COM
MITHRAN TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED 300,A NEGRU NAGAR KAVINDAPADI ERODE TN 638455 HIMANSHUTRIPATHI340@GMAIL.COM
MERRIANT FASHIONTECH PVT LTD FLAT 307, JYOTHI CLIQUE APPTS, 4TH B CROSS ABBAYA REDDY LAYOUT, KHAGGADASAPURA MN RD BANGALORE-560093 IMRANKING1@GMAIL.COM
MARAYATH APPAREL PRIVATE LIMITED NO 17/5, KALKI APARTMENT, FIRST FLOOR 1ST MAIN ROAD, KUMARAN NAGAR CHENNAI-600092 DAVINDERNANDA@LIVE.COM
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LOHITASHVA HOME FASHIONS PVT LTD 20, BLOCK-B, BHARULA WALA BAGH, PANCHWATI, VILLAGE- BHAROL, AZADPUR NEW DELHI-110033 VVSATYA.LINUX@GMAIL.COM
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SKYPET AND POLYMERS PRIVATE LIMITED 5, SURAWARDY AVENUE P.S - BENIAPUKUR KOLKATA-700017 RAM.DESHWAL3@GMAIL.COM
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SHIVMADHU POLYMERS PRIVATE LIMITED PLOT NO. 542, CIDCO WALUJ MAHANAGAR GROWTH CENTER-1 AURANGABAD MH 431136 CASHANMUKH@MANKALA.IN
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SAKHYATHA POLYMERS PVT LTD PLOT NO.160,4TH CROSS, WHITE CITY LAYOUT PHASE-1, SEEGHEHALLI, BANGALORE-560049 BABAN.PARVATHANENI@GMAIL.COM
SAKH INDIA TEXTILE CRAFTS PRIVATE LIMITED B-148 ANANDPURI, M.D. ROAD JAWAHAR NAGAR JAIPUR RJ 302004 SHANTANUVERMA89@GMAIL.COM
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POOVARASI TEXTILE MILLS PRIVATE LIMITED 1/231-C METTUR MAIN ROAD, N.G.G.O. COLONY BHAVANI ERODE TN 638301 CODESTASHSOLUTIONS@GMAIL.COM
AVATAR CLOTHING LLP 220, NATRAJ MARKET, 2ND FLOOR, MUMBAI 400064 ICHIRAGPARMAR@GMAIL.COM
ATIVEER TEXTILE LLP X/4005 DELHI 110031 JAINARPIT63@GMAIL.COM
ASIA RESINS AND POLYMERS LLP GALA NO 22/A, 1ST FLOOR, VIRWANI INDUSTRIAL ESTATE MUMBAI 400063 FRPMATERIALS@GMAIL.COM
ANEEK APPARELS LLP #4-8-720, SADAR BAZAR, BOLLARAM SECUDERABAD 500010 AGARWAL.SHANKARLAL1958@GMAIL.COM
AHTESHAM YARN LLP H N 286 BURHANPUR 450331 ISRAR.ULLAH.411@GMAIL.COM
AAVIRAS FOAM & FABRICS LLP GROUND & FIRST FLOOR, S. NO. 36/2/1, PUNE 411048 AAVIRAFURNISHING@GMAIL.COM
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LIST OF LIMITED LIABILITY PARTNERSHIP (LLP) FIRMS REGISTERED DURING FEBRUARY 2018
ZYMRAT ACTIVEWEAR PRIVATE LIMITED NO.8/A, 2ND FLOOR, 24TH MAIN, 1ST CROSS J.P. NAGAR, 32ND PHASE BANGALORE-560078 INFO.SKICOMPANY@GMAIL.COM
ZEED APPARELS PRIVATE LIMITED NEW NO. 12, OLD NO. 50, NORTH BOAG ROAD, T. NAGAR CHENNAI-600017 XAWILSKY@GMAIL.COM
YUKBA FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED NO. 4*99, 12TH MAIN, NATARAJA LAYOUT 7TH PHASE J P NAGAR BANGALORE-560078 SHARADNAGAR82@GMAIL.COM
YESGEE KNITTINGS PRIVATE LIMITED 99/1, 1ST FLOOR, 6TH CROSS 7TH MAIN ROAD, SRIRAMPURAM BANGALORE-560021 CONSULTTOSR@GMAIL.COM
WOVEN STORY EXPORTS PRIVATE LIMITED C-48, GROUND FLOOR SURAJMAL VIHAR DELHI-110092 RVBAJAJ@REDIFFMAIL.COM
WONDERLITE COTTEX AND APPARELS INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED SHOP NO 1 MOHI DHAIPAI LINK ROAD VPO KHANDOOR, LUDHIANA-141103 SHAMBHU@MSJINDIA.COM
WILD WOLF GARMENTS PRIVATE LIMITED B-44, GAYATRI NAGAR NEAR PANI GAON, INDIRA NAGAR LUCKNOW UP 226016 ROC@SDMASSOCIATES.IN
VISTARA SPINNING MILLS PRIVATE LIMITED NO 45 & 46, LOKAMANYA STREET WEST, R.S. PURAM, COIMBATORE TN 641002 GBTANNA66@GMAIL.COM
VISONA FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED H.NO. - N13/209 L-25 SARAI SURJAN BRIJ ENCLAVE BAZARDIHA, VARANASI UP 221008 JVIJAY624@GMAIL.COM
VIDYASHANKAR TEXTILES PRIVATE LIMITED C/O- AMOD KUMAR CHAURASIYA BARAI, BAGAHAWA GOPALGANJ BR 841426 SAHGAUTAM4@GMAIL.COM
VIDHUBALA IMPEX (OPC) PRIVATE LIMITED 25 WEST ST CHAVADI THOTTOM, PARAMASIVAM PALAYAM TIRUPPUR TN 641663 HUMANWEALTHRECRUITERS@GMAIL.COM
VAPOR FASHIONS INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED 212/2, VENKATESHWARA NAGAR, V.P.C. NAGAR TIRUPUR TN 641603 HARSHAVARDHAN.PARVATIKAR@GMAIL.COM
VANPRI FASHIONS PRIVATE LIMITED S12-502, 5TH FLOOR SMONDEVELLE BANGALORE-560100 VADDISN82@GMAIL.COM
VAGMI EXPORTS PRIVATE LIMITED 123 GROUD FLOOR, BLOCK-3, EROS GARDEN, SECTION- 39, AMARNAGAR FARIDABAD HR 121003 DHRUPADMOURYA@GMAIL.COM
UN TEXTILE AND FABRIC PRIVATE LIMITED C/O CHELOO SINGH SHEKHAWAT, KHUDI CHHOTI LAXMANGARH, SIKAR JAIPUR RJ 332315 LLOYD@ICEGATEACADEMY.COM
TRIVEDI FABRICS PRIVATE LIMITED H.NO. 67, B-BLOCK, PHASE-1, QUTUB VIHAR DELHI-110071 MANISHTAXSOLUTIONS@GMAIL.COM
TRIGUR RICHPOLYMERS INDIA PRIVATE LIMITED C/O DANISH ZAFAR PLOT NO. 313/7, IMT MANESAR, GURUGRAM HR 122502 CAHARISHKUMAR1@GMAIL.COM
TREZOR FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED D-23-C, GROUND FLOOR, D BLOCK. KH. NO.-301 & 300,CHATTARPUR ENCLAVE NEW DELHI-110074 OFFICE9D@GMAIL.COM
TEKURI FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED MF 14/12, BLOCK N, BDA FLATS NANDINI LAYOUT BANGALORE-560095 JAIKISHEN.SINGH@GMAIL.COM
TAUPE AND TEAL FASHION PRIVATE LIMITED H.NO 26/9,SHIVAM COTTAGE BHAGWAN MAUHALLA, NEAR BANGLA TEMPLE MANDI HP 175001 VIKASHFCS@GMAIL.COM
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PORUS TEXTILES AND TRADING LLP 606, RIVER PALACE-II NEAR NAVDI OVARA, SURAT 395001 PORUSTEXTILES@YMAIL.COM
PINK COCONUT FASHIONS LLP PLOT NO.82, ABBURU HEIGHTS, DOOR NO: 1-80/40/SP/82 HYDERABAD 500081 NARENDER@3FOILPALM.COM
ODILINE FASHIONS LLP B403, DEFINER KINGDOM BANGALORE 560049 MANASH.MISHRAA@GMAIL.COM
NISHIKA APPARELS LLP FLAT NO.109, NCL GANGA APARTMENTS, PET BASHEERABAD SECUDERABAD 500055 AGARWAL.SHANKARLAL1958@GMAIL.COM
NATESA AIR WEAVING LLP 25/12C, TIRUCHENGODE 637211 NATESAAIRWEAVING@GMAIL.COM
MURLIWALA TEXTILES LLP A-3, NAVNEET KUNJ MATHURA 281003 OMTEXTILEMILLS@GMAIL.COM
MEGHRAG FASHION LLP FLAT NO:302, FLOOR NO:3, WING:A, CHANDRAKANT BHAYANDER W THANE 401101 RAGHAV.SH22@GMAIL.COM
MEERA TEXTILE INDIA LLP NO.170, KUMAR NAGAR, TIRUPUR 641602 KPSIVA@HOTMAIL.COM
MAA PADMAVATI YARNS LLP 5/339, KASLIWAL SADAN KAGAWADE MALA ICHALKARANJI 416115 AMRUTPARAKH@GMAIL.COM
KIAN TEXTILES LLP 4TH FLOOR-402, SANTVAN HEIGHTS, SURAT 395004 DMSVILKIASSOCIATES@YAHOO.COM
K & G CLOTHING CO. LLP 157, JESSORE ROAD(SOUTH) KOLKATA 700133 NISHAKAJARIA13@GMAIL.COM
JASRAPURIA SILK MILLS LLP K 7/3 A, LALA SURDAS KI GALI, VARANASI 221001 JASRAPURIASILK@YAHOO.IN
JASMINE GARMENTS LIMITED LIABILITY PARTNERSHIP 1ST FLOOR, 4 SHANKER VIHAR DELHI 110092 PROJECTS@DEVPRODUCTS.COM
JAQUR151 POLYMER INDUSTRIES LLP KHASRA NO.15/9 & 15/2 BEGAM VIHAR EXTN VILLAGE DELHI 110086 SHEKHARNAGPAL14@GMAIL.COM
HADES FASHION ENTERPRISES LIMITED LIABILITY PARTNERSHIP SOMA VIHAR MALAPPURAM 679329 REMESHKL10Z1895@GMAIL.COM
GURUKRIPA GARMENTS LLP G-1/94 JAIPUR 302022 ACCOUNTS@GURUKRIPAGARMENTS.COM
FASHION FLY TEXTILES LLP A G COLONY, GROUND FLOOR, NAUSA MORE, AZAD NAGAR PATNA 801505 KHANSULTAN1936@GMAIL.COM
F.S. YARN AGENCY LLP 28 FLOOR NO.2, PLOT 47, MAHAKALI CHAWL MUMBAI 400002 FSTEXTILES1@GMAIL.COM
EARTHY ELEMENTS TEXTILE LLP 29, BARKAT NAGAR JAIPUR 302015 SHARMA_ASHISH21@REDIFF.COM
DAYALJI MILLS LLP 8-1144, B.NO. 4, G. NO. 91, ICHALKARANJI 416115 VENKYOCHANDAK@GMAIL.COM
CHAUDHARY CLOTHING LLP HOUSE NO 2865, GROUND FLOOR BLK-J, DSIDC NARELA DELHI 110040 INFO07CHAUDHARY1@GMAIL.COM
CHAUDHARY APPARELS LLP HOUSE NO 2865, GROUND FLOOR, BLK-J, DSIDC NARELA DELHI 110040 SALES@MAHIMALIFE.COM
CALICO CLOTHING LLP N-71, GROUND FLOOR, NEW DELHI 110048 AKSHAY@KBASSOCIATE.COM
BRAND ROOT CLOTHING LLP NO 7, 1ST FLOOR, 1ST MAIN, 2ND CROSS, OPP TO BANGALORE 560027 KUSHI.BAGRECHA2000@GMAIL.COM
BLUE CRAFT TEXTILES LLP 31, SAKET BUNGLOW, AHMEDABAD IN 380015 PARIKHSUJAY@GMAIL.COM
BHAGWATI KNITTING INDUSTRIES LLP 19, BANGUR AVENUE KOLKATA 700055 AJAY8LAKKAR4@GMAIL.COM
BENTGRASS CLOTHING LLP B B T2-1401 LA RESIDENTIA GREATER NOIDA 201306 NEELAMJHA7905@GMAIL.COM
BELLA HOSIERY LLP FLAT NO - A -1602, SHRI SHIDDHI VINAYAK TOWER NAVI MUMBAI 400709 SHWETAKPS89@YAHOO.COM
VG FASHION ENTERTAINMENT LLP 54/12, RAJPUR ROAD, DEHRADUN 248007 HONEYROOM_123@YAHOO.CO.IN
VASTHRA PARI THE FASHION STUDIO LLP NO.1, K.NO. 111/4/2/4, KOWDENAHALLI BANGALORE 560016 HEMANTHKUMAR26@GMAIL.COM
TUSHAR KNITTINGS LLP 31, SHIBTOLLA STREET, KOLKATA 700007 TUSHARKNITTINGSLLP@GMAIL.COM
TINYRABBIT CLOTHING LLP B51, VED VIHAR AWHO COLONY, HYDERABAD 500015 JEEVANKUMARKR@GMAIL.COM
TAANVA FASHION LLP BUILDING NO: 28/242 A,KBR HILLS KOZHIKODE 673017 TAANVAFASHION@GMAIL.COM
STYLEOS CLOTHING UNIVERSE LLP 288, GROUND FLOOR, POCKET C, DELHI 110076 SANJOGBERRY@GMAIL.COM
SONY KIDS WEAR LLP NEAR N G MUTRAK, GAVTHAN NEHRU CHOWK, SINNAR 422103 ABHISHEK.BORA123@GMAIL.COM
SIRMOUR NON WOVEN INDUSTRIES LLP 111, GREATER GANGA MEERUT 250001 ALOKRAJPUT2210@GMAIL.COM
SHUBHAM KAROTI FASHION LLP S.NO. 150, SHUBHAM PLAZA, SANGLI 416416 BBGUNJATE@GMAIL.COM
SHREE HARI WEAVETECH LLP WARD NO. 11, H. NO. 413/2, BEHIND MSEB OFFICE ICHALKARANJI 416115 AMRUTPARAKH@GMAIL.COM
SHREE DAYAL FASHIONS LLP G-1/94, JAIPUR 302022 ACCOUNTS@SHREEDAYALEXPORTS.COM
SANGAM POLY YARN LLP HOUSE NO 14-59/7, KISTAPUR VILLAGE HYDERABAD 501401 K.KAILASHJAJOO@GMAIL.COM
SAMVATH FASHION INTERNATIONAL LLP X-8/31-A S/F, KH NO. 709, GALI NO.-6, 7 DELHI 110053 CA.SEHDEVRAWAT@GMAIL.COM
SAMSOM KNITTING LLP FLAT NO.302,PRASAD COMPLEX, LINE TANK ROAD RANCHI 834001 SAMSOMRANCHI@OUTLOOK.COM
RIEPPELEON APPARELS LLP D.NO.4-2/1, GROUND FLOOR, KODALI VARI STREET, VIJAYAWADA 521108 VALLURUYASWANTH@GMAIL.COM
RHEIN NEO POLYMERS AND CHEMICALS LLP PLOT NO. RL-187 DOMBIVALI 421201 NEOORGA@YAHOO.IN
Pakistan Textile Firms Unable to Add Value for Higher Earnings
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Pakistan’s production and earning capacity is far lower as it earns $1 billion through the products of one million cotton bales while Bangladesh and Vietnam earn $6bn and $8bn, respectively, said Asma Khalid, senior economist at State Bank while speaking at a seminar on “Stimulating Firm Productivity for Growth,” organised by the State Bank in collaboration with International Growth Centre (IGC), Consortium of Development Policy Research (CDPR) and Institute of Business Administration. Speakers highlighted some interesting figures about the country’s production capacity, export potential, financing hindrances and technology with innovation and also discussed options to achieve sustainable growth with capacity building. It was also revealed that the higher imports demand for garments in China has created opportunities for countries like Pakistan to get a bigger share. “Rising labour cost in China, growing demand for garments in major Asian economies, and the GSP+ status create new opportunities for Islamabad to increase textile and garments exports,” said a research paper of CDPR. Speakers said that by 2019 China would be the biggest apparel market creating space for Pakistan to benefit from the developments. “Strengthening capabilities is vital to becoming part of the value chain of a global garments market estimated at $133bn, growing at 12pc annually, with China poised to vacate its share of 26pc of the market,” said Ijaz Nabi of CDPR. The study of the garments sector manufacturing find reveals that Pakistan’s high real exchange rate to be harmful for exports. “This was in direct contrast to what other competing economies have done, which is devaluing their currency or allowing their exchange rate to depreciate. For example, between January 2014 and December 2015, the Indian rupee and Chinese yuan fell by approximately 7pc, the Turkish lira by 26pc and the Vietnamese dong by 76pc,” they said. Zara Salman of CDPR said between 2013 and 2015, Pakistan’s garment exports increased by 10pc to EU compared to Bangladesh and India’s 13pc and 17pc respectively, indicating that Pakistan has yet not fully exploited the benefits of the GSP+ status. Researchers said Pakistan being nextdoor neighbour to China enjoys a unique advantage while CPEC provides unprecedented gains to capitalise on. China is especially interested to explore areas like cotton productivity, efficient irrigation and post-harvest infrastructure.
A Review of Some Recent Breakthroughs in Medical Textiles Research Gokarneshan N* and Velumani K Department of Textile Technology, Park College of Engineering and Technology, Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu, India *Corresponding author: Dept of Textile Technology, Park College of Engg. & Technology, Coimbatore, India Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Abstract The recent years has witnessed revolutionary breakthroughs in the area of medical textiles. Some significant contributions have been reviewed in this article. A novel multi layered knitted structure with the coating of the nano fibrous web has been developed for using as aesophaegal prosthesis. This has been achieved through knitting of polyglycolic acid braided yarn into tubular form and coating polycaprolactanenano fibres on the surface. Drug loaded antimicrobial silk suture have been developed for use in both wound closure and wound healing with the object of preventing infections at the surgical area. The material has been found to have satisfactory suture properties. A breathable woven surgical gown with antimicrobial and liquid repellent properties has been developed by finishing with nanoparticles of silver and fluorocarbon using pad-dry-cure method. The coating parameters have been optimized suitably. Cellulosic, polyester-cotton and tencel fabrics as well as PES/PU/PES laminate have been characterized for use in medical applications, before and after frequent washing and sterilization. Viscose fabrics have been modified to enhance the attraction for nano metal oxides, namely aluminium oxide, zinc oxide or titanium oxide, to impart antimicrobial activity against two species of bacterium. Also the wash durability of the fabrics has been determined. These researches point to better health care strategies. Keywords: Esophaegal prosthesis; Knit structure; Antimicrobial silk suture; Surgical gowns; Barrier textiles; Antimicrobial activity; Nano metal oxides Introduction Considerable developments have taken place over the past decade in the development of medical textiles and these have paved the way towards toward better health management systems. Tubular knitted fabrics have been used as a basic structure for making the vascular grafts. The polyester single jersey tubular knitted fabric has been embedded into polycaprolactane composite structure to make a vascular graft . These results showed that this vascular prototype has good mechanical properties due to the knitted structure. Sutures are natural or synthetic materials available in monofilament, multifilament, twisted and braided forms, used widely in wound closure, ligates injured blood vessels and to draw tissues together [2,3]. They are classified into absorbable and nonabsorbable category and attached with a metallic needle at one of the fibrous
ends. The most important properties of suture materials are physical, mechanical, handling, biological and biodegradation properties. All these properties are interrelated [3,4]. In recent years, attention towards functional finishing of medical textiles such as blood repellent, antimicrobial, and antistatic has increased due to the risk of dangerous microbes development on these fabrics when they come in contact with biological fluids such as blood, sweat etc . Sterile barrier can be defined as a material located between sterile and contaminated areas, with the purpose of preventing microorganisms to penetrate through the material. To obtain a satisfactory microbial barrier system, there are three criteria, viz., enable sterilization, provide a barrier for microorganisms and maintain sterility [6,7]. Textiles can provide a suitable substrate to grow microorganisms especially at appropriate humidity at appropriate and NCM-MARCH 2018 36
temperature in contact with human body. Recently, increasing public concern about hygiene has been driving many investigations on antimicrobial agents for textiles. These agents are used to prevent serious undesirable effects on textile materials, such as degradation of colouring, staining and deterioration of fibres, formation of unpleasant odour as well as increase of potential health risks [8-10]. A proposal of hygienic living standard by controlling the microorganisms is necessary. Researchers have focussed on the antibacterial and antifungal modifications of textiles by application of inorganic nanotechnology [11-15]. Knitted esophagus prosthesis Weft knitting is an age old technology of fabric formation which enables yarn to form loop structure across the fabric width using a set of needles. Owing to their outstanding extensible properties,
A Review of Some Recent Breakthroughs in Medical Textiles Research the weft knitted fabrics are nowadays found a wide range of applications. The interloping yarns in the fabric permit the knitted structures to have greater circumferential properties in weft direction as compared to longitudinal direction. Also, these structures have a porous structure that makes them useful for medical and regenerative treatments. Polyester/spandex tubular weft knit fabric have been used to reinforce a three layer vascular graft . The radial mechanical property of the developed multi layer structure has been assessed and it has been reported that the radial tensile property of the vascular grafts has improved with the use of knitted fabric. Such investigations approve that the use of weft knitted fabrics can enhance the mechanical properties of the tubular prosthesis and vascular prototypes. Esophagus is a tubular shaped muscular/mucosal tissue that connects the mouth and throat to the stomach. The researchers have shown that there is a non linear and exponential relationship between force and elongation of the esophagus tissue . The mechanical properties of the native esophagus tissue including the axial and circumferential strengths and strains have been measured at 2.19MPa, 1.41 MPa, 70% and 82.5% respectively . Some researchers have focused on providing the self expanding metallic and plastic stents, however, the application of metallic stents in benign esophagal strictures is limited due to high risks and problems, such as stent displacement, forming the new strictures, fistula, and hyper plastic reaction of the tissue in the long term [19,20]. Knitted textile structures are used as biodegradable stents for treatment of the esophagal disorders. A novel biodegradable knitted poly-llactic acid stent has been developed for use in the benign esophageal strictures. This is a novel method for
developing the textile based biodegradable stents. However, the mechanipcal properties of this stent havenâ€™t been measured for long term applications. This stent also has a significantly open stricture that makes it impossible for use as a tissue engineering scaffold considering the proper conditions the proper conditions for cell growth and proliferation. Hoogencamp et al. have developed a hybrid seamless tubular structure as esophageal prosthesis . They have knitted the PCL yarns into plain sheet structures and then coated the knitted structure by collagen polymer. However, they used the silk knots for making the tubular shape of PCL knitted sheets by surrounding knitted fabrics around a mandrel. These sutured points may be torn due to mechanical loadings during its application and may create leakage sites. The polyester knitted prosthesis have also been effectively used for treatment of the esophageal disorder in a dog . As stated above, most of the previous works are focused on the use of potential of weft knitted fabrics for making the biodegradable stents and prosthesis. However, these structures have mechanical and morphological limitations [23,24]. A novel biodegradable tubular hybrid structure has been developed that can provide the mechanical properties of the native esophaegal tissue and also introduce a good surface morphology for further cell growth and proliferation during the implementation period. This multi-layer structure is consists of the PCL polymer and an additional layer of gelatin coating. The biodegradable nature of the applied polymers and yarns eliminates the need of further surgeries for removing the prosthesis and also will expose the different functional groups (such as carboxyl groups) to cells. In fact, the use of PGA and PCL as knitted structure and nanofibrous coating leads to a balance in degradation during implantation in the body. This issue is overcome with NCM-MARCH 2018 37
hydrophilic property of PGA against low contact surface of filament yarn in comparison with hydrophobic property of PCL against high contact surface of nano fibres. A multi-layer tubular structure has been developed by knitting and electrospinning of the biodegradable PGA yarn and PCL polymer for its use as a substitute for esophaegal diseased tissue. Studies on mechanical properties show that the developed structure has stress and strain values close to real esophagus tissue in both directions. Investigating the effect of stitch density on the mechanical properties of the knitted structures shows that the increase in stitch density has led to increase in axial stress . However, this increase causes a decrease in circumferential stress of the tubular prosthesis from a certain point. Thus, the stitch density value must be set at an optimum value to have good mechanical properties in both directions. The surface roughness measurements for PCL nano fibres coated with gelatin shows that the coating of gelatin has led to increase in surface roughness of the esophaegal prosthesis by 15% than uncovered structure. Coating the gelatin has also retained the porosity of the tubular structures. In vitro tests demonstrated that three layer micro-nano tubular structure has a controlled degradation in the presence of PBS solution. Results show that the multilayer tubular knitted prosthesis can be used as a biodegradable candidate for substituting the diseased esophaegal tissues and can supply required mechanical properties, surface functionality groups, and proper surface profile for further cell growth and proliferation. Herbally treated antimicrobial silk suture Sutures are found to be a major cause for surgical site infections, occurring within 30 days after a surgical operation
A Review of Some Recent Breakthroughs in Medical Textiles Research (or within one year if an implant is left in place after procedure) which affects either the incision or deep tissues at the operation site . Suture, being a foreign material in surgical wounds enhances the susceptibility of surrounding tissues of wound to infections . Bacteria present in the surgical wound not only contaminate the tissues but also the suture material, which leads ineffectiveness in decontaminating the wound . Bacterial attachments and colonization occurs in all suture material and leads to surgical site infections . Implants have non-shedding surface, skin or other bacteria to form an extra cellular matrix (biofilms), protecting the bacteria from host defence factors [30,31]. These biofilms bacteria are difficult to treat and they are less sensitive to antibiotics and antiseptics. It is necessary to remove the implant, and antibiotic treatment is essential if biofilms infection is formed . In order to overcome this, many antimicrobial sutures were developed by incorporating suitable antibiotics, antiseptics or their combination. Triclosan, commonly used in antimicrobial sutures, was found to have some demerits such as prematurely change of tadpoles into frogs and reduced sperm production in male rats . Silk is a natural biomaterial which consists of fibroin. It helps in cell attachment and proliferation. Silk suture also possesses goo knot tyeing quality [34,35]. Chitosan is considered as one of the most valuable polymers for biomedical and pharmaceutical applications due to its biodegradability, biocompatibility, non toxicity, and anti tumour properties [15,16]. Chitosan is a benefit to wound healing because it stimulates haemostasis and accelerates tissue generation . Suture materials are normally coated with silicon or wax was found to create inflammatory and thrombotic response to the tissues . Coating with chitosan prevents inflammation as well as scar formation
with and provides antimicrobial property since silk is easily prone to microbial infection . Aqueous extract of Cynodon dactylon (a traditional herb), commonly called as Bermuda grass was evaluated for their antioxidant, anti inflammatory action while its fresh juice has shown the immuno modulatory and DNA protective activity [39-41]. The aerial part extract Cynodon dactylon was found to possess alkaloids, phenols, tannins, and flavonoids on preliminary screening. An antibacterial effect and wound healing property of the grass was investigated by many researchers [42-46]. Efforts have been taken to develop an antimicrobial silk suture preventing surgical site infections by using natural materials having rich medicinal values, which includes biomaterials and medicinal plants . In this study silk has been used as suture material and fabricated using a circular braiding machine. The silk suture is coated with chitosan (a biopolymer) and incorporated with Cynodon dactylon (a natural drug) . The coated suture is found to have good properties. In order to obtain optimum antimicrobial efficacy, response surface optimization process using Box-Behnken experimental design is applied. It is found that 1.7% o chitosan and 7% drug at 60 C has optimum antimicrobial efficacy with effective bacterial reduction against S.Aureus and E. Coli, when subjected to antimicrobial study. Breathable surgical gowns Surgical gowns and surgical masks are important textile products among different kinds of medical textile products, and protect surgeons from hazardous viruses such as Hepatitis B, HIV, etc [48-50]. These microbes, normally present in the patientâ€™s blood, are much smaller than the pore size of NCM-MARCH 2018 38
the fabric and thus can easily make contact with the skin of surgeons. In order to protect the surgeons from the penetration of these viruses, spun laced, melt blown, and spun bonded/ melt blown/spun bonded non woven fabrics are used as surgical gowns . But, these non woven fabrics are not widely used in indian hospitals due to their limitations such as high cost, low blood barrier effect and not reusable. Mostly cotton and polyester/cotton blended woven fabrics are widely used for developing surgical gowns . These woven fabrics have many benefits, such as low cost, stability against wash/reusability, reduced medical waste, good air permeability and good moisture transport which are highly suitable for surgical gowns . In order to get functional properties surgical gowns are provided with liquid repellent and antimicrobial finishing (dual finish). Several studies have been carried out on developing the above mentioned fabric by finishing the fabrics with liquid repellent and antimicrobial agents. Attempts have been taken to develop the antimicrobial and liquid repellent cotton nonwoven fabrics by treating chitosan and fluoro polymers . It has been found that dual finished has low antimicrobial and air permeability values. Whereas, cetyltrimethyl ammonium bromide and fluoroaklyl acrylic copolymer have been used for developing a dual finished fabric . The finished fabric showed better liquid repellency, however moisture vapour permeability of the finished fabric was affected. In another study, neem extracts and fluorocarbon have been applied on the fabric surface and the finished fabric exhibited low antimicrobial activity due to presence of fluorocarbon on the surface of the fabric . In order to improve the antimicrobial property, finishes have been impar ted on cellulose fibre surface by applying nano silver and fluorocarbon . The finished fabric exhibited good antibacterial and repellent properties;
A Review of Some Recent Breakthroughs in Medical Textiles Research nevertheless air and water vapour permeability of the fabrics were affected. On the other hand, fluorocarbon and CTAB have been applied on the surface of polypropylene and polyethylene fabrics. The finished fabric showed good antimicrobial property, however the liquid repellent nature of the fabric was reduced due to cationic nature of CTAB. It has been observed from the reported literature that developing a dual finished fabric with good air and water permeability is a challenging work. The protective surgical gowns should be given a dual finish without affecting the breathability and comfort of the fabrics. While developing a dual finished fabric, uniform dispersion of chemicals on fabric surface is an important requirement for developing a good quality antimicrobial and liquid barrier fabric. From the published literatures it has been observed that the fabric finished with nano chemicals provide an excellent functional performance, such as oil and water and oil repellency, stain proof, antibacterial, antistatic, etc. without compromising the breathability of the fabrics [57,58]. Hence, nano liquid repellent and nano antibacterial agents have been applied on surgical fabrics which can provide good liquid repellent and antimicrobial characteristics to the fabric along with better breathability. Nano silver and nanofluoro carbon have been taken along with a binder and applied on surgical fabric. The concentration of solutions has an influence on the fabric properties, and hence solution concentrations of nano silver, nanofluoro carbon and binder have been considered variables and then optimized using a statistical tool. Surgical fabric with antimicrobial and liquid repellent (liquid barrier) characteristics have been developed by coating it with nano silver and nanofluoro carbon without affecting its air and moisture vapour permeability. The increase in NS concentration at high level of NFC and binder increases the add-on% of fabric. In case of
repellent property, the increase in NS concentration from 1g/L to 5g/L has no significant change in surface contact angle of fabric. However, the increase in NFC concentration from 10g/L to 70g/L increases the contact angle of o o fabric from 60 to 140 . In case of air permeability of the fabric, the increase in NS concentration from 1g/L to 5g/L reduces the air permeability of the fabrics. The increase in binder concentration from 10g/L to 15g/L increases the air permeability of fabrics. However, at high level of binder concentration (20g/ L), air permeability of fabric is reduced. In case of moisture vapour transfer rate of finished fabric, the increase in NS concentration from 1g/L to 3g/L increases the fabric moisture vapour transfer from 795g/m2/day to 805g/m2/ day. However, at 5g NS, the fabric moisture vapour transfer is reduced from 805g/m2/day to 790g/m2/day. Anti-bacterial activity of NS and NFC finished fabric against E. Coli reveals that the increase in NS concentration increases the bacterial inhibition zone whereas binder concentration has no effect on antibacterial activity . The same result is also obtained for the fabric tested against the bacterial strain S. Aureus. In case of tensile strength of finished fabric the increase in NS and binder concentration increases the tensile strength of the fabric. In case of bending modulus of finished fabric, increase in NS concentration increases the bending modulus of the fabric. The increase in NFC concentration reduces the bending modulus of the fabric. In addition, the increase in binder concentration from 10g/L to 20g/L at low level of NS (1-3g/L) has no significant change on fabric bending modulus. Therefore, bending modulus of fabric is positively influenced by NS particle and not by NFC particles. It has been concluded that the fabric treated with 3g/L of nano silver, 40g/L nano fluorocarbon and 15g/L of binder imparts better antimicrobial and liquid repellent properties without affecting the breathability of the fabrics. NCM-MARCH 2018 39
Effect of sterilization and washing on fabrics used for medical applications Sterile material, to be used later should be stored immediately after the sterilization process, while the period of storage depends on the type of packaging, transportation, storage and handling conditions. Each sterilized material has its own lifetime, as defined by the time its sterility is maintained. Packaging protects sterilized material against contamination from microorganisms, particles and solutions after sterilization at the same time allowing permeability of air and sterilization medium. The microbial barrier system should provide protection against the penetration of microorganisms and maintain sterility of the products. Textile materials can also be efficient barriers applied in packing of material for sterilization, surgical gowns, cover and masks. Previous testing of microbial barriers was conducted with the goal of determining whether the applied medical textiles (one layer) can provide safe protection against contamination after sterilization, regardless of the fact that they did not meet the standard EN 868-02:2009 and EN ISO 116071:2009. It was proved repeatedly used medical textiles could provide a safe microbial barrier against contamination for packaging in sterilization, coincidence the validity term of minimum 3 months, 50 washing and 50 sterilization cycles . Complete research findings of permeability in microbial barrier have been published earlier. Contaminated medical textiles are a potential source of microbes and contribute to the transfer of hospital pathogens by endogenous and indirect contacts [61,62]. It is known that washing causes some changes in fabric characteristics, which can also affect the barrier properties . Efforts have been taken to identify a degree of modification of cellulosic medical textiles proved to be an efficient barrier
A Review of Some Recent Breakthroughs in Medical Textiles Research system, after multiple washing and sterilization cycles. Hence, the characterization of two cellulosic medical textiles and three layer textile laminate PES/PU/PES used for packaging, surgical material in sterilization and in operation theatres have been performed employing surface characterization, change in spectral characteristics and tensile properties. Surface characterization is based on SEM micrographs and zeta potential, which provides an insight of the charge and adsorption characteristics of solid surfaces. Due to possible contamination by cotton dust and due to microbiological cleanness 100% cotton fabric has not been used. It is observed that washing and sterilization performed through 50cycles have an impact on tensile, spectral and surface characteristics . Optical properties of tencel are found to be deteriorated due to unadapted washing conditions. Cellulosic fabrics show most prominent changes in all the relevant properties, when compared to laminate. Modified viscose fabrics with enduring antibacterial activity As most textile fabrics would undergo repeated laundering during their life time, the washing durability of nano metal treated fabric is of significant importance. Polycarboxyilc acids are a multifunctional organic molecules with chemical and thermal stability [65,66]. Polycarboxylic acids could form ester linkage with hydroxyl groups of cellulosic fabrics at elevated o temperature above 160 C. They have also been used to improve the adhesion of the inorganic-organic interface . Permanent viscose fabrics have been prepared by fixation of propionic acid groups at lower temperature (below o 100 C), as active centres, onto the cellulosic polymer chain. The added carboxylic groups are believed to act
as favourable centres for some oxides such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or aluminium oxide nano particles. The efficacy of the antimicrobial activity, considering the permanent performance against selected microorganisms onto modified textile, is also evaluated. FTIR spectra of untreated viscose fabric as well as fabrics pre-treated with 3-bromopropionic acid and then with nano metals show a support for the reaction between the viscose fabrics and 3-bromopropionic acid and then with nano metals shows a support for the reaction between the viscose fabrics and 3-bromopropionic acid . The alkali combining capacity values increase remarkably as the amount of 3-bromopropionic acid is increased during the modification of the viscose fabrics, which supports the reaction betweenâ€“OH active group of viscose and bromine halide of 3-bromopropionic acid. It has been found that the introduced carboxylic groups can attract the nano metal oxides from their suspension to the fabrics. It has been found that the viscose fabrics treated with 3-bromopropionic acid are incapable of resisting the growth of the microorganism. A unique ability to stop growth of these microorganisms on the viscose fabric can only be attained when treated with 3-bromopropionic acid followed by after treatment with nano metal oxides. It is also obvious that the ability of nano metal treated viscose fabrics to reduce the microbial growth is in the following order: zinc oxide>aluminium oxide>titanium (IV) oxide. 3-bromopropionic acid has a superior antifungal activity in comparison with its antibacterial activity. The added carboxylic groups to the fabrics is not only acting as attracting groups for the nano metal oxides, but also fixing these nano metal oxides to the fabric. The viscose fabrics treated with 3-bromopropionic acid and nano metal oxides are found to be able to maintain high antimicrobial activity even after 30 wash cycles. NCM-MARCH 2018 40
Conclusion Investigations on the tubular knitted fabrics intended for use as esophaegal prosthesis have revealed that its mechanical properties are similar to real esophaegal tissue. Coating of gelatine increases the surface roughness of the PCL nanofibrous web and also retains the porosity of the final structure. Degradation test also shows that the PGA knitted fabric coated with PCL nanofibres and gelatin is degraded in a controlled manner. It can be said that this tubular knitted structure can be considered as a substitute for prosthetic application in different esophaegal diseases after biological investigations. Silk suture material has been analysed for various suture properties such as tensile strength, elongation, knot strength, bending properties and diameter. The suture material is coated with chitosan which is a biopolymer and incorporated with herbal drug Cynodondactylon. Effective bacterial reduction percentage have been found against the bacterial culture considered. Thus, the natural drug loaded suture material would be a better alternative for synthetic drug loaded suture which is found to have some demerits. In the development of breathable woven surgical gown coated with silver nanopar ticles and fluorocarbon the critical coating parameters have been optimized. The coating parameters considered are concentrations of nano silver, nanofluoro carbon and binder, which have decisive influence over the fabric properties. The antibacterial activity of the fabric is found to be higher for increased nano silver concentration and lower for increased nanofluorocarbon. Studies on cellulosic, polyester/cotton, tencel fabrics, and polyester, polyurethane, polyester laminate used for medical applications have shown that during washing and sterilization, cellulosic fabrics show prominent changes of all studied properties than that of polyester, polyurethane, polyester laminate. Studies on viscose fabrics
A Review of Some Recent Breakthroughs in Medical Textiles Research pretreated with 3-bromopropionic acid and after treatment with nano metal oxides have revealed an unique ability to stop microorganisms growth on the fabrics. The ability of the nano metal oxide treated viscose fabrics to reduce microbial growth is found in the following order: zinc oxide>aluminium oxide>titanium (IV) oxide. The durability of antimicrobial activity has been tested after thirty wash cycles. References 1. Wang FG, Mohammed A, Li C, Ge P, Wang L, et al. (2014) Biomedical material engineering 24: 2127. 2. Adekogbe I, Ghanem A (2005) Biomaterials 26: 7241. 3. Chu C (2002) Textile based biomaterials for surgical applications. Polymeric biomaterials (New York CRC Press), USA, pp. 167. 4. Chaouat M, Le Visage C, Auttisier A, Chaubet F, Letourneur D, et al. (2006) Biomaterials 27: 5539. 5. Virk RK, Ramaswamy GN, Bourham M, Bures BL (2004) Textile Research Journal 74: 1073. 6. Enko MT (2009) Sterile supply packaging (WFHSS-OGSV Basic script). 7. Bojic-Turcic V (1994) Sterilizacija I dezinfeckcija u medicine (Medicinskanaklada and Medicom, Zagreb). 8. Ren X, Kou L, Kocer HB, Zhu C, Worley S, et al. (2008) Colloids Surfaces A: Physiochemical engineering aspects 317: 711. 9. Dastjerdi R, Montazer M, Shahsavan S (2009) Colloids Surfaces A: Physiochemical engineering aspects 345: 202. 10. Dastjerdi R, Mojtahedi M, Shoshtari A, Khosroshahi A (2010) Journal of textile institute 101: 204. 11. Gao Y, Cranston R (2008) Textile research journal 78: 60.
12. El-Sayeed AA, Dorgham SM, Kantouch A (2012) International journal of biology and macromolecules 50: 273. 13. Kantouch A, El-Sayeed AA, Salama M, El-Khair AA, Mowafi S (2013) International journal of biology and macromolecules 62: 603. 14. Mekewi M, El-Sayeed AA, Amin M, Said HI (2012) International journal of biology and macromolecules 50: 1055. 15. Wong Y, Yuen C, Leung M, Ku S, Lam H (2006) Autex research journal 6: 1. 16. Yang H, Zhu G, Zhang Z, Wang Z, Fang J, et al. (2012) J Biomed Mater Res [B]: Appl Biomater 100B: 342. 17. Gregersen H, Liao D, Fung YC (2008) J Biomech Eng 130: 1. 18. Vanags I, Petersons A, OseV, Ozolanta I, Kasyanov V, et al. (2003) J Biomech 36: 1387. 19. Song HY, Do YS, Han YM, Sung KB, Choi EK, et al. (1994) Radiology 193: 689. 20. Holt AP, Patel M, Ahmed MM (2004) Gastro intest Endosc 60: 1010. 21. Saito Y, Tanaka T, Andoh A, Minematsu H, Hata K, et al. (2007) World J Gastroenterol 13: 3977. 22. Hoogenkamp HR, Koens MJW, Geutjes PJ, Ainoedhofer H, Wanten G, et al. (2014) Tissue Eng[C]: Methods 20: 423.
25. Owens CD, Stoessel K (2008) J Hosp Infect 2: 3. 26. Justinger C, Moussavian MR, Schlueter C, Kopp B, Kollmar O, et al. (2009) Surgery 145: 330. 27. Rodeheaver GT, Kurtz LD, Bellamy WT (1983) Arch Surg 118: 322. 28. Rothenburger S, Spangler D, Bhende S, Burkley D (2002) Surg Infect (Larchmt) 3(1): 79. 29. Leaper D, McBain AJ, Kramer A, Assadian O, Sanchez JL, et al. (2010) Ann R Coll Surg England 92: 453. 30. Gomez-Alonso A, Garcia-Criado FJ, Parreno-Manchado FC, GarciaSanchez JE, GarciaSanchez E, et al. (2007) J Infect 54: 82. 31. Ming X, Rothenburg S, Yang D (2007) Surg Infect (Larchmt) 8: 201. 32. Brausch JM (2011) Chemosphere 82: 1518. 33. Gupta MK, Khokhar SK, Phillips DM, Sowards LA, Drummy LF, et al. (2007) Langmuir 23(3): 1315. 34. Gurumoorthi BB, Sheela Raj Z, Nachane RP, Radhalakshmi YC, Joseph MA (2013) J Text Assoc 73:(2013)351. 35. Kumar MNVR (2000) Reactive Functional Polym 46: 1. 36. Keong LC, HalimA S (2009) Int J Mol Sci 10: 1300. 37. Hoekstra A, Struszczyk H, Kivekas O (1998) Biomaterials 19: 1467.
23. Muste AN, TanaseA, Muste MM, Beteg FL (2014) Acta Vet Brno 83: 243.
38. Altman GH, Diaz F, Jakuba C, Calabro T, Horan RL, et al. (2003) Biomaterials 24(3): 401.
24. Javad Y, Dariush S, Amin Z, Seyghlani, Shahnaz R (2017) A novel biodegradable micro-nano tubular knitted structure of PGA braided yarns and PCL nanofibres applicable asesophagus prosthesis. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research 42: 264-270.
39. Viju, Thilagavathi G (2002) Fibres Polym 13(6): 82.
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40. Kumar A, Sawarkar HA, Deshmukh VS, Mishra KK, Singh M, et al. (2011) Int J Herbal Drug Res 1(1): 1. 41. Santhi
A Review of Some Recent Breakthroughs in Medical Textiles Research Annapoorani S (2010) J Pharmacy Res 3(2): 228. 42. Garg VK, Paliwal SK (2011) Int J Pharmacol 7(3): 370. 43. Anand K, Kashyap P, Sawarkar H, Muley B, Pandey A (2011) Int J Herbal Drug Res 1(2): 31. 44. Suresh K, Deepa P, Harisaranraj R, Vaira A (2008) Ethno Botanical Leaflets 12: 1184. 45. Thakare VM, Chaudhari RY, Patil VR (2011) Int J Phytomedicine 3: 325. 46. Dande Payal, Khan Anis Asian (2012) J Pharm Clin Res 5(3): 161. 47. Garg Vipin Kumar, Khosa RL, Paliwal SK (2009) Pharmacologyonline 1: 1246. 48. Virk RK, Ramasamy GN, Bourham M, Bures BL (2004) Textile Research Journal 74. 49. Behera BK, Arora H (2009) Journal of industrial textiles 38: 205. 50. Montazer M, Rangchi F (2009) Textile apparel 2: 128. 51. Huang W, Leonas KK (2000) Textile research journal 70: 774.
52. Rutala WA, Weber DJ (2001) Infection contagious hospital Ep 22: 248. 53. Lee S, Jeong SC, Cho G (1999) Textile Research Journal 69: 104. 54. Bagherzadeh R, Montazer M, Latifi M, Sheikhzadeh, M, Sattari M (2007) Fibres Polymers 8: 386. 55. Thilagavathi G, Kannian T (2008) Indian journal of fibres and textile research 33: 23. 56. Tomsic B, Simonc B, Lidija BC (2008) Journal Sol-Gel Technology 47: 44. 57. Joshi M, Bhattacharya A, Ali SW (2008) Indian journal of fibre and textile research 33: 304. 58. Jegatheesan K, Senthilkumar T, Neelakandan R (2017) Indian journal of fibre and textile research 42: 453. 59. Rogina-Car B, Budimir A, Tuttie V, Katovie D (2014) Cellulose 21: 2101. 60. Borkow G, Gabbay (2008) J Med Hypotheses 70: 990. 61. Fijan S, Sc Atar-Turk S (2012) Int
Environ Res Public Health 9: 3330. 62. Leonas KK (1998) Am J Infect Control 26: 495.64. 63. Rogina-Car B, Page T, Dekanie T (2016) Impact of washing and sterilization on properties of fabrics used for medical applications. Indian journal of fibres and textile research 41: 426. 64. Bendak A, Raslan W, Salama M (2008) J Natural Fibers 5: 251. 65. Salama M, Bendak A, Moller M (2011) Ind Textila 62: 320. 66. Mao Z & Yang C Q (2001) J Appl Polym Sci 81: 2142. 67. Huang W, Xing Y, Yu Y, Shang S, Dai J (2011) Appl Surface Sci 257: 4443. 68. Atef El-Sayed A, Salama A, Sohad MD, Kantouch A Modification of viscose fabrics to impart permanent antimicrobial activity.
(Courtesy: Gokarneshan N, Velumani K. A Review of Some Recent Breakthroughs in Medical Textiles Research. Curr Trends Fashion Technol Textile Eng . 2018; 2(3): 555588.)
Choosing the right medical fabric technology for your device is important Slight differences in materials can lead to big changes in clinical resultsâ€Ś.. How do you determine when to use a weave instead of a knit or a braid to create your biomedical structure?
Medical Textiles: Fabrics & Technologies
The value of woven grafts in an implantable medical device include: Low profile design; Low delivery forces required; Ease of Deployment; Resilient; High degree of coagulation; Controlled permeability; Strength; Compressibility; Insulation against friction and tissue wear; Abrasion resistance; Mechanical patency The value of knit fabrics in an implantable medical device include: High degree of tissue in-growth; Controled permeability; Controlled degree of elongation; Compressibility; Fabrics can be knit into a variety of shapes based on your biomedical structureâ€™s requirements, including: Surgical Mesh; Tubes; Fenestrated Tubes; Double Knit Structures (two layers knit together); Spacer Fabrics (three dimensional structure) Hybrid fabrics include more than one type of structural fiber in its construction. Hybrid fabrics allow the two fibers to be constructed into one or more layers of fabric. In a woven hybrid fabric it is possible to have one fiber running in the weft (crosswise) direction and the second fiber running in the warp (longitudinal) direction. It is also possible to use a combination of different fiber types in each warp and weft direction.
Although hybrids are most commonly found in knit fabrics, the principle is also used in weaving, braiding, and nonwoven fabrics. Hybrids are often used for: Surgical meshes; Scaffolds; Surgical grafts; Wound dressings. Typical hybrid combinations include: Polypropylene/ Polyglycolic acid (PGA); Polypropylene/Polylactic acid (PLA); Polyester/Nitinol
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Clothing and Textile Sector in Finland Basic information on Finland Finland celebrates a century of independence in 2017 – the official Independence Day is held on December 6.
Governance Finland is a republic and parliamentary democracy, and has been a member of the European Union since 1995. The Euro was in 2002 adopted as currency. Finland is divided into 311 municipalities (2017), which are selfgoverning entities that represent the local level of administration in Finland and provide two thirds of public services.
Geography Finland is the most northern country on the European continent; virtually all of Finland is north of 60 degrees north latitude and one-third of the latitudinal extent of the country lie north of the Arctic Circle. The neighbouring countries are Russia (east), Norway (north), Sweden (west) and Estonia (south). Finland is 11 times larger in size than Belgium: the surface is 338,424 km², of which inland lakes and rivers make up 10%, which gives Finland its nickname 'the land of the thousand lakes'.
Population and culture Finland has 5,5 million inhabitants (2016), of whom 1,3 million live in the Capital Region (including: Helsinki and the neighbouring cities Espoo, Vantaa and Kauniainen). Many foreigners are not aware of Finland being a bilingual country, with Finnish and Swedish as official languages (around 5% of Finns are native Swedish speakers). Many Finns also speak English fluently, so it is no problem conducting business with them in English. Culturally Finland is a part of the West-
ern civilization and the Nordic countries together with Sweden, Norway, Denmark and Iceland. Yet, Finland has its own special features due to the Finnish language, that is completely unrelated to the Scandinavian languages, and to the geopolitical location (next to Russia).
Price level Finland, along with the other Nordic countries, is one of the most expensive countries in Europe. Finland is the fifth most expensive European country when comparing the prices of clothing (Belgium is on place 11). Statistical average price of clothing of the EU States being 100 euro, the Finnish price is 114 euro and Belgian 105 euro (2014). General overview of Finnish industry and economy The structure of Finnish industry has changed rapidly during the last few decades. The economy used to rely strongly on forestry, but by the end of the 90’s, electronics had suddenly risen to be the most important sector in terms of both added value and exports. Finland evolved quickly from a forestrybased to a technology-based economy, and is currently transitioning to a more and more servicedominated society. Globalization has also played its part when it comes to changes in the Finnish industry resulting to the decline of multiple industries that used to be important such as the clothing and textile field. Finland’s GDP per capita is Euro 38,959 (2016) and the structure of different sectors is: primary production 2,5%, manufacturing 26,9% and services 70,6%. (Statistics from: Statistics Finland) The global financial and the European debt crises hit Finland hard, and the NCM-MARCH 2018 43
Finnish economy has been in the doldrums since 2008. But recently Finland has just returned to growth again. In June 2017, the Bank of Finland declared that the Finnish economy is no longer in recession. The Bank foresees a growth of GDP 2,1% in 2017, of 1,7% in 2018 and of 1,4% in 2019. GDP will reach the level of 2008 during the course of 2019. However, despite the improvement in the cyclical situation, Finland's external indebtedness will continue to grow. The accumulated current account deficit in 2010-2016 stands higher than Euro 14 billion, as both general government and household debt levels have been rising rapidly. Driven by the cyclical trend, the employment situation is expected to improve, but the employment growth will be restricted by labour market mismatch problems and constraints in labour supply. According to Statistics Finland’s Labour Force Survey, the number of unemployed persons in June 2017 was 250,000 which was 14,000 lower than a year ago. The unemployment rate was 8.9%, having been 9.3% in June of the year before (15,000 peoples were employed since June of the previous year). In the second quarter (from April to June) the unemployment rate was 9.9% whereas in the respective quarter of 2016 it was 10.0%. The clothing and textile sector The textile and clothing industry has a long history in Finland. The first industrially manufactured clothes were tricot and knitwear. The knitting machine was already invented in the late 16th century, nearly 200 years before the weaving machine. Finland’s first tricot factories, which made coats and socks, were established in 1740 in Tampere. However, there was only little demand for these clothes as people
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES lived mostly self-sufficiently. The development of textile sewing machines was a prerequisite for industrial fabrication of clothing. By the end of the 19th century, countless specialty machines were developed and slowly clothing factories were established in Finland. The oldest, still operational Finnish clothing factory A. Fredrikson Oy, was founded in 1887 in Jyväskylä. The boom of clothing and textile industry started in the 1950’s when importation wasn’t as closely controlled anymore since war-time regulations ended and foreign competition could start. Finnish clothing companies could start to present their products at the international European fashion market and Finnish designer clothing, brands and labels came to be. Export of clothes increased at a rapid pace and was bigger than importation by 1965.The number of employees in the clothing industry was around 35,000 and virtually all the clothes were domestic before the 70’s. At the most, there were around 520 clothing and textile companies in Finland and trade with the Soviet Union was extensive, which guaranteed fulltime employment for the Finnish companies. In the beginning of 1980, export of textiles and clothes was four times the amount of import. However, the cost of Finnish workforce began to rise and Finland evolved quickly to a country of expensive labour costs. Subsequently, the profitability of Finnish clothing industry weakened. During 1986-1990, production of clothing decreased by 50% and more and more manufacturing was moved to countries of cheap labour. When trade with Eastern Europe collapsed, also due to the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, a lot of Finnish companies went bankrupt. The Finnish clothing and textile industry has been in a downfall since the early 90’s, and seasonal fluctuation in the industry is nowadays remarkable. For example, in 2014, export turnover declined by almost 14%, whereas the following year there was an increase
Statistics: Finnish Textile & Fashion Association *modified of 8%. The production costs in Finland aren’t compatible with the neighbouring Baltic States nor with the Far East countries. Thus, the Finnish production lines weren’t able to answer to the extremely quick changes nor to the demand of flexibility of the modern fashion industry. Hence most production has moved to the low-cost states. The clothing retail business has done better compared to manufacturing. However, the rise of unemployment, fiscal tightening, and therefore the deterioration in purchasing power of consumers, have heavily hit the whole economy of Finland. In four years, during 2011-2015, the recession nearly cut Euro 400 million from the shoe and clothing market, which is about 13% of the total value of the market. In the 21st century, the potential of the Finnish textile industry lies in high quality, product design, technically demanding products and flexible deliveries. Work in the industry focuses mainly on product development and NCM-MARCH 2018 44
designing. Foreign clothing and textile companies have brought fierce competition to the market and pushed down the prices. The power of consumers has also increased and modified the industry: Finnish consumers are more demanding and conscious especially when it comes to the latest trends and price-quality ratio. Clothing and textile industry and employment The fashion and textile industry can be divided into five subcategories by functions: 1. Manufacture and production of clothing and textiles (manufacture and finishing of textiles and clothing, manufacture of interior textiles and carpets, manufacture of industrial and technical textiles 2. Other manufacture related to textile and fashion industry (manufacture of shoes and leather, synthetic fibre, fiberglass and mattresses)
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Statistics: Finnish Textile & Fashion Association *modified 3. Wholesale of textiles and fashion (wholesale of fabrics, threads, textiles, clothes and footwear) 4. Retail of textiles and fashion (retail of fabrics, threads, handcraft goods, carpets, curtains, clothes, accessories, footwear, mail-order and online stores) 5. Maintenance of clothing and textiles (laundries and shoemakers) In its entirety, the Finnish fashion sector employs around 22,100 people of whom 44% works in retail. There are 3,600 fashion and textile companies, 23% of which work in production and close to 70% in wholesale and retail. Net revenue of the sector is Euro 4.2 billion (2015) of which manufacturing accounts for almost 40% although their share is only 23% of the amount of companies. The Finnish textile and fashion sector is dominated by small businesses. There are many companies in the industry, but on average 9% of the companies generate almost 60% of total revenue of the entire industry. There are approximately 700 companies and 5,000 people working in manufacturing of textiles and clothing (subcategory no 1, which is considered as
Figures from: Textile & Fashion Suppliers and Retailers Finland Association the core of the fashion and textile industry). They are mainly small companies such as sewing and dress makerâ€™s shops. The number of Finnish companies as well as personnel of the subcategory no 1 has declined considerably over the last few decades because of the increased automation and production relocation.
strongly influenced by consumerâ€™s behaviour, demand for domestic or imported products and services, economic cycles and the activity of the industries of the costumers, such as construction or fitness. New employees are hired when needed and mainly to replace the ones retiring.
The textile and clothing sector is
On average, a Finn spends around
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Consumption & clothing market
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Consumption of clothing and footwear in Finland, 2015
Private consumers spent: •
Euro 4,7 billion on clothes and footwear
Euro 0,5 billion on home textiles (2015)
Consumption of interior textiles as well as clothing declined notably from 2008 onwards. However, the consumption of footwear and clothing has started to slowly rise back to the previous level (before 2008). Fashion is one of the largest branches of speciality goods trade. In addition to the stores specialized in clothing and footwear, other important fashion sales channels in Finland are department stores, hypermarkets and sports shops. Fashion ecommerce has also grown significantly in recent years. Fashion companies and chains have invested in online stores while new fashion online stores (domestic and foreign), that don’t have physical shops, have entered the market. During the years 2011-2015, around Euro 200 million from Finnish sales of fashion and textile went to foreign ecommerce. Foreign online stores are steadily increasing their position in Finland. In fashion business, the number of online purchases from abroad to Finland grew by nearly Euro 40 million in 2016, which means a growth of 23.8%. Of all fashion trade, foreign ecommerce accounted for 6.7%. Sportswear purchases from foreign online stores grew Euro 11 million (+27,3%), the share of foreign sports online sales rose to 5% of the total sports trade. The growth of consumer confidence and increasing consumption is at risk to drain to countries with lower value added tax (VAT). The standard rate of VAT in Finland has been 24% since the start of 2013. Finland has the fifth highest standard rate among the EU Member States.
Statistics: Finnish Textile & Fashion Association *modified The Finnish fashion commerce is very “chained” and the share of chain stores has grown strongly ever since the beginning of the 90’s. New fashion chains with their new selections and concepts arrive to the Finnish market every year. The pace of clothing commerce has accelerated and competition has beNCM-MARCH 2018 46
come more intense: collections change at a rapid pace and the duration as well as significance of seasons has faded. Fashion commerce centres are located in attractive trade spots like city and shopping centres. Clothing stores situated next to other clothing stores and in places with a lot of passing, will
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES thrive. Finns tend to visit multiple stores at once while shopping. They want to see what’s new and compare the selection to each other. That is why clothing stores function the best in close proximity.
Consumption of interior textiles in Finland, 2015
Finnish clothing production As mentioned before, most of the clothing and textile production has been relocated outside of Finland due to high labour costs. Real Finnish clothing are ’a rarity’. Nanso, founded in 1921, was the biggest and most Finnish clothing manufacturing company for a long time. But at the beginning of 2016, it sold the majority of its brands (Norlyn-, Amar-, Finnwear- ja Black Horse) to the Norwegian Pierre Robert Group owned by Orkla and closed all production in Finland in autumn 2016. Currently in addition to store operations, Nanso only handles marketing and product development in Finland. As the production chain in clothing is long, the Finnish clothing companies do not produce everything in Finland, but their headquarters and decision makers are in Finland. E. Laiho Oy, which produces working clothes, is one of the very few larger companies that still produces all of its products in Finland and has even done so under the same roof for 60 years. Its turnover in 2016 was nearly Euro 2 million and the number of employees 30. The textile production in Finland is mostly composed of small companies. Clothing and textile imports Due to the limited local production, most of the clothing and textiles on the Finnish market is imported. Clothing imports rose steadily from the late 1980’s to 2009 when the financial crisis caused a drop in the import. During 2011-2015 clothing import fell with 12%, but in 2016 it began to grow again. In 2016, the value of clothing imports to Finland was Euro 1.39 billion. One-third of all imported clothing is women's clothing, a quarter is men's
Statistics: Finnish Textile & Fashion Association *modified clothing and 20% is knitted garments. Clothing is mostly imported from following countries: China (36%), Bangladesh (10%), Sweden (7%), Turkey (5%) and India (4%). Asian counNCM-MARCH 2018 47
tries’ share of clothing import has grown a lot since 2000. New significant importing countries among others are Bangladesh, Vietnam, Cambodia and Pakistan.
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Clothing and textile exports The Finnish clothing is often known for its high quality and most of the produced clothing is exported. In 2016, the value of Finnish fashion exports was Euro 272 million. Clothing export has remained at the same level between 1990 and 2000, around Euro 200-250 million a year. In 2009-2013 clothing export grew and amounted up to Euro 340 million at the most. From 2013 on, clothing export has declined about 20%, which can be explained by the rapid fall of value of Russian exports. In the past, Russia has been a significant clothing export country of Finland. But during the last few years the Russian clothing market has fallen 40% while also the Finnish retailers have reduced their operations in Russia. Half of the exported clothing are women's clothing and over a quarter of men's. The largest export countries are Sweden (26%), Germany (16%), Russia (13%), Estonia 8 (%) and France (5%).
Textile and clothing manufacturing: shares of turnover, number of companies and personnel (2015)
The biggest companies and retailers The biggest Finnish clothing companies are: Luhta Sportswear Company (Luhta, Ril’s, Rukka, Icepeak, James, Torstai, O.i.s, Sinisalo, Skila, Story, Big-L, Beavers, Your Face), Marimekko, Nanso Group, Reima, Texmoda Fashion Group (Moda, Jim&Jill), Veljekset Halonen and Seppälä. Many of the most popular clothing retail chains in Finland are from other Nordic countries: e.g. H&M, GinaTricot, Dressmann, Jack & Jones, Carlings, Cubus, BikBok and Vero Moda. The share of foreign chains in clothing sales has been increasing steadily. In addition to the companies mentioned before, Finns buy a lot of clothes from hypermarkets and department stores, of which the biggest names are SGroup (Sokos Department store and Prisma hypermarket), Kesko (K-
Statistics: Finnish Textile & Fashion Association *modified Citymarket hypermarket) and Stockmann department stores. These chains all have their own private labels, and their importance is high to the chains’ operations, although Finland has been behind the other European NCM-MARCH 2018 48
countries in the use of private labels. The situation has become more favourable for private labels in the past years. Currently Finns buy twice as much private label products than 10 years ago.
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Statistics: Finnish Textile & Fashion Association *modified
Statistics: Finnish Textile & Fashion Association *modified Marimekko and Finlayson are the biggest producers and sellers of home and interior textiles. The fabric sector is dominated by Eurokangas, which has stores across Finland and imports fabrics. All the major chains have strict store
concepts and carry their own brands alongside the purchased collections. Foreign chains usually invest in cheap price level, and the ones offering high quality and brand products are smaller shops. In general, Finnish people are less brand conscious though, compared to people in Central Europe. Ecommerce has grown notably and is a significant part of clothing trade; clothes and accessories is the second most online purchased product category in Finland (43% of all online purchases are clothes/accessories) after hotel bookings NCM-MARCH 2018 49
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(44%). According to TMA ry – Association of the Textile and Fashion Sector in Finland, the ecommerce for fashion sales rose 24% and sports sales for about 27% in 2016. Future perspectives of the industry & products with best potential Rapid technological development is typical for the industry. Machinery is getting more complex and automatism more common. Textile & clothing employees’ job description has changed, and mass production as well as other productional assignments have changed to process supervision. Technology is also utilized in clothing designing, and machinery is producing pieces of clothing ready for retailers to sell and so sewing is no longer required. In Finland, the developing possibilities in the clothing and textile industry lie in the, already existing areas, such as: clothing physiology, especially deeper knowledge of cold weather conditions, paper machine clothing, bindings of knitted fabrics, textile enzymes, infor-
mation technology and control of static electricity. Environmental issues are also becoming a more significant part of consumers’ buying criteria. Finnish consumers are starting to take the ethical and social issues into consideration especially regarding the production as part of international subcontracting. And policies and manufacture conditions of textile and clothing businesses are monitored. The importance of environmental questions in production is increasing, and emissions to air, water and soil are regulated by stricter legislation. Clothing and textile businesses need to develop continually their processes and production tools. And environmental issues need to be considered in the design of the product. Recycling and reuse are developing as raw material resources decline. Smart clothing Technology also changes clothing and textile products. Smart clothing, comNCM-MARCH 2018 50
bining functional materials and electronics into clothing, and materials developed by biotechnology exploration, are new research subjects in the field. Different dirt-repellent applications for textiles and clothing are getting popular, also body function measuring smart clothing has great growth prospects especially in sports and healthcare. It is just a matter of time before innovations are maturing into mass products. Winter clothing Due to Finland’s geographical location the weather conditions vary notably. There are four clearly different seasons and the temperatures may range from - 30 degrees Celsius in the winter, to + 30 degrees Celsius in the summer, which has an effect to the clothing and textile industry. There is a great demand especially for winter outerwear due to the cold weather, which is an advantage for exporters of winter and warm textile and clothing products (around 39% of sold textile products are outdoor clothing. NOTE: Producers
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES aiming to get their winter products to the Finnish market must note that winter wear has to meet the requirements of the long and cold Finnish winter: they should be able to keep the body heat in - 20 degrees Celsius weather and withstand the cold winds and snowfall (dense fabric, hoods, long sleeves etc.). Entering the Finnish market As the biggest clothing and textile chains stick to their own brand and concept and have huge order quantities, the smaller Finnish shops give a better chance for new suppliers. When starting a cooperation with the smaller Finnish stores, it is best to have many presentable and interesting alternatives from every product category, so that the stores have variety and can pick those companies that fit them most, since they likely purchase just a few pieces from a collection. Possible ways of entering the Finnish market for companies, producing home textiles (sheets, towels, blankets etc.), could be by contacting the Finnish department stores or the Finnish low cost stores. The latter currently being more successful than the department stores. Contrary to their name, the lowcost stores, don’t sell just cheap and short-lived products, but also items of good quality and wellknown brands. Fabric producers can find business partners from the members of the Finnish Foreign Trade Agents Federation (http://agenttiliitto.fi/). This federation also organizes yearly the textile fair “PolarStoff”. The Finnish Textile and Fashion Association (Suomen Tekstiili & Muoti Ry, www.stjm.fi/en/finnishtextile-and-fashion/) can also be of help and connect some Finnish businesses to international companies. In addition to European and national legislation a potential exporter should consider special Finnish characteristics such as: quality standards, standardization and the demographic trend. The average age in Finland is around
40 years, which means that the majority of the potential customers are middleaged people that value quality. The biggest and still growing sub-sector of textiles is women’s fashion. There’s also an ongoing boom of interior decoration, therefore there is a higher demand on home textiles. Ecommerce is also getting more significant within the sector. The more research and planning that is done in advance, the better the results will be. Clothing and textile associations and fairs
Associations TMA RY–Textile and Fashion Suppliers and Retailers Finland www.textile.fi/fi TMA is an association of fashion and sports importers, suppliers, wholesalers, retailers, chains and stores. Its main focus is to promote its members’ interests. STMJ – The Finnish Textile and Fashion Association www.stjm.fi/ en/finnish-textile-and-fashion/ Finnish Textile and Fashion Association is the central organization for textile, clothing and fashion companies in Finland. It promotes the sector and its member companies, globally. FINATEX – The Federation of Finnish Textiles and Clothing Industries www.finatex.fi The Federation of Finnish Textiles and Clothing Industries is a lobby, training and service organisation. Its primary mission is to enhance the business potential of members operating in the highlycompetitive Finnish and international markets by furthering their business and labour-market interests. The federation has around 150 members together employing a labour force of nearly 8,000 persons, i.e. well over 90% of the total for the sector. Finatex is a member of the Confederation of Finnish Industries and Employers (EK). NCM-MARCH 2018 51
The Finnish Association of Fashion Retailers www.muotikaupanliitto.fi The association keeps a listing of its members online. The website is in Finnish. Nimettömät - Association for Lingerie Distributors and Importers www.nimettomat.net Members: www.nimettomat.net/ jasenyritykset Finnish Foreign Trade Agents’ Federation www.agenttiliitto.fi An association of commercial agents, distributors and importers. The Federation was established in 1945. The commercial agents of this Federation have gained their membership after a thorough examination. They are a valuable marketing force on the Finnish market in raw materials, semimanufactured goods and investment goods to the industry as well as consumer goods to wholesalers and retailers. The great majority of the member companies are small, owner led businesses. Ornamo www.ornamo.fi/en/ Ornamo’s members are professionals in industrial design, fashion, textile and furniture design, interior architecture, craft art and textile art as well as researchers of design. Ornamo maintains a member register. The contact information of the companies of members can be obtained from the Ornamo office. Industrial designers and interior architects have their own office registers.
Fairs PolarStoff There are no big professional textile fairs in Finland, most Finnish buyers and companies travel to the big fairs in Europe. The only one organized in Finland is PolarStoff. The Federation of Finnish Textiles and Clothing Industries and the Finnish Foreign Trade Agents' Federation organise sales exhibitions under the name of PolarStoff usually twice a year, in spring and in autumn. These exhibitions are devoted to clothing tex-
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES tiles, accessories and household textiles and are a traditional forum for manufacturers of raw materials to display their products.
Habitare Fair http://habitare.messukeskus.com/ ?lang=en Habitare, the largest annual furniture, design and interior decoration event in Finland, is held at Messukeskus in Helsinki. Habitare offers experiences and ideas on interior decoration, and on the functioning and look of homes and other spaces. The events: Antiikki (antique event), HighEnd Helsinki (hifi show), Showroom, and Forma Autumn for professionals, are held concurrently with Habitare. Though Habitare Fair is the best occasion to meet Finnish furniture and design business. ID Helsinki www.idhelsinki.fi/ ID Helsinki is a leading professional event for project interior design: more than 60 exhibitors, a highquality seminar program and an Afternoon Party. In a commercial, relaxed atmosphere, suppliers and service providers, designers and clients of interior design projects can meet and network. Address list Please note that the following contact list only includes examples and mainly covers just the biggest and most known Finnish companies operating in the clothing and textile sector. Also, many of these listed example companies are overlapping when it comes to the more specific operations, i.e. some import, produce as well as resell, and do not fit purely to one category.
Fabric importers & wholesalers Fabricol - www.fabricol.fi/ Address: Ratatöyrääntie 3, 05810 HYVINKÄÄ T +358 50 303 2623 Email: email@example.com Importer and wholesaler of fabrics and sewing supplies and offers sewing services. Kangastukku - (Owned by Fabricol) www.kangastukku.com Address: Ratatöyrääntie 3, 05810 HYVINKÄÄ
T +358 40 710 4440/ +358 40 55 111 33 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Large wholesaler and ecommerce of fabrics, sewing equipment and accessories. Maricken Oy - www.maricken.fi/ etusivu_oy Address: Pernontie 4, 21260 RAISIO T +358 2 436 8200 Email: email@example.com An importer and wholesaler of highquality fabrics and wallpapers. Tekstiilipalvelu www.tekstiilipalvelu.com/ Address: Vilpolantie 1, 37800 AKAA T +358 207 739 580 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Finland’s largest importer and wholesaler of fabrics. In addition to Finland, sells also to Russia, Sweden and Estonia. Suveka - www.suveka.com/ Address: Korvenrannatie 10, 04300 TUUSULA T +358 9 881 1844 Email: email@example.com Founded in 1902, Suveka is an importer and wholesaler of fabrics. Company serves schools especially and has hundreds of Finnish schools as clients. Eurokangas Oy - www.eurokangas.fi Address: Tiilentie 2, 16320 PENNALA T +358 3 879 20 00 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Eurokangas is a company founded in Lahti in 1945 concentrating on retail and import of textiles. It is Finland's market leader in the sale and import of fabrics and related services. The company imports fabrics directly from the world's leading fabric plants. Its businesses also include comprehensive design, measurement, sewing and installation services of home textiles. SNT Group/Suomen Nauhatehdas http://snt-group.fi/ Address: Suonsivunkatu 14 33420 TAMPERE Email: email@example.com T +358 3 252 5511 Contact person: Mr. Juha Koskimäki, NCM-MARCH 2018 52
Director Email: firstname.lastname@example.org T +358 3 252 5512 / +358 500 804 666 Imports linings from other countries and other fabrics from Be (Elasta NV, Techma Coatings), but mainly produces and distributes sewing and fabric products and accessories to clothing, textile and furniture industries. Sparus - www.sparus.fi/shop/ Address: Kalliokatu 12, 37200 SIURO T +358 50 518 8020 Email: email@example.com Wholesaler and distributor of good quality fabrics and knitting. Also has an ecommerce.
Home and interior textile producers, importers & wholesalers Orient-Occident Oy www.orientoccident.fi/english Address: Ruukinkuja 2, 02330 ESPOO T +358 9 260 660 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Contact person: Ms. Nina Petersén, Product Manager (Textiles) Email: email@example.com An importer and wholesaler of interior textiles and floor coverings and among the market leaders in Finland. The company was founded early 1919 and is a well-known, family owned Finnish company. They are marketing high class products for contract interior professionals. Marimekko Oyj - www.marimekko.fi Address: Puusepänkatu 4, 00881 Helsinki, Finland T+358 9 75 871 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Marimekko is the most successful and internationally known Finnish design company renowned for its original prints and colours. The company’s product portfolio includes high-quality clothing, bags and accessories as well as home décor items ranging from textiles to tableware. Marimekko products are sold in about 40 countries. Roughly 160 Marimekko stores serve customers around the globe. Finlayson & Co Oy www.finlaysonshop.com/ Address: Heikkiläntie 7, 00211
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES HELSINKI T +358 20 721 3500 Email: email@example.com The company was established in Finland about 200 years ago. The company is known for its high quality household textiles. The company manufactures 4 million meters of fabric yearly and is the biggest industrial company in the Nordic. Company’s archives contain more than 100,000 patterns, offering a unique perspective on the history of Scandinavian textile design.
Finland being 11 times larger in size than Belgium, a lot of driving around is usually required, which is costly due to mileage allowance (up to 10 000 euros per month in the phase of building the network). Also, it should be noted that the agent usually does not give all information (to its principals) like contacts since those are the “capital” of an agent.
Maricken Oy - www.maricken.fi/ etusivu_oy T +358 2 436 8200 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org An importer and wholesaler of highquality wallpapers and fabrics.
www.agenttiliitto.fi/osto_opas.html Agency Ari Ahlberg Address: Nummerotie 21 21210 RAISIO T +358 40 900 5999 Email: email@example.com
Oy Naccanil Ab - www.naccanil.fi Address: Speranskintie 3, 00150 HELSINKI T +358 9 682 20 20 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org Imports interior fabrics; upholstery fabrics, other fabrics for furniture. Customers include interior designers, furniture manufacturers and high-end interior design stores. Also, exports yarns for the textile industry.
Atem Oy - http://atem-oy.tekee.fi/ Address: Topeliuksenkatu 17 A 5, 00250 HELSINKI Ms. Eeva Pakkanen Email: email@example.com T +358 400 552 315
Oy Vallila Interior Ab www.vallilastore.com Address: Nilsiänkatu 15, 00510 HELSINKI T +358 20 776 7700 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org A company specialised in design and wholesale of decoration textiles and products, as well as doing interior design projects. Vallila Interior also has sheets and curtains.
Europort Oy - www.europort.fi/ Address: Vilhonkatu 4 B 18, 00100 HELSINKI Email: email@example.com T +358 9 682 9060
Agents Locating agents randomly in Finland is close to impossible as agents often do not have websites nor are listed in phone directories. It is thus best to use the database of the Finnish Foreign Trade Agents Federation. There aren´t big differences between the agent culture in Finland and Central-Europe, but the costs of an agent in the beginning might come as a surprise. Because
Full list of agents (members of the Finnish Foreign Trade Agents Federation):
Dominella Trade Address: Kauppakatu 2 Lh B7 31900 PUNKALAIDUN Email: firstname.lastname@example.org email@example.com T +358 400 620 516
Falck Textile Oy - http://falcktextile-oy.tekee.fi/ Address: Yrjönkatu 12 A 1 00100 HELSINKI Email: firstname.lastname@example.org T +358 40 900 4838 Leros Oy Suvi Siivi - www.leros.fi/ Address: Tuomiokirkonkatu 12 A 2 33100 TAMPERE Email: email@example.com T +358 50 593 7330 Imports linings from Italy Malmström Willy TMI Address: Oksasenkatu 6 A 00100 HELSINKI Mr. Willy Malmström NCM-MARCH 2018 53
Email: firstname.lastname@example.org T +358 9 442 761, fax + 358 9 449 100, mobile: +358 40 50 50479 Imports linings from Netherlands Mauno Vuorela Oy Address: Putousrinne 1 E, 01600 VANTAA T +358 9 53 5065 Email: email@example.com Niinnon Oy - www.niinnon.fi/ Address: Ilmarinkatu 9 E, 33500 TAMPERE Mr. Antti Hoisko Email: firstname.lastname@example.org T +358 10 439 7333, Fax +358 10 439 7330 Imports JDC linings from Be Most known clothing producers & retailers Nanso Group Oy www.nansogroup.com Address: Tanhuantie 2, 37100 NOKIA T: +358 20 125 800 Email: email@example.com Clothing for men, women and children. The second largest company within the Finnish clothing industry. Produces mainly various tricot textiles. The production is concentrated in Tallinn, Estonia. Luhta Sportswear Company www.luhtasportswearcompany.fi/en/ Address: Tiilimäenkatu 9, 15680 LAHTI. T +358 3 822 111 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org One of the largest companies in the Nordic Countries, offers clothing for men, women and children. Produces day-to-day wear and sportswear (also motor sports), both known for their quality. Texmoda Fashiongroup www.moda.fi/copy-of-moda-pasvenska Address: Työpajankatu 10 A, 00580 Helsinki. T +358 9 777 1200 Email: email@example.com Clothing for men and women. Texmoda Fashion Group is one of the largest operators in the clothing industry in Finland. The youth clothing chain Jim & Jill is also part of the Texmoda chain. The company has 33 stores around Finland.
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Halonen - www.halonen.net Address: Pohjoisesplanadi 37 A, 00100 Helsinki T +358 9 341 75 50 Clothing for men and women. Has department stores around Finland. Offers quality in a good price for everyone: fashion and timeless pieces, also for children. Kesko Oyj - www.kesko.fi/en/ company/kesko-in-brief/ Address: Satamakatu 3, 00160 Helsinki. T +358 10 53 11 Kesko is one of the largest trade sector companies in Finland (the other one is S Group). Its main business areas are: grocery, construction and building technology trade and motor trade, but its hypermarkets also carry middle priced clothing from local and international bands for men, women and children. The company has department stores around Finland. S Group - www.s-kanava.fi/web/s/ en/s-ryhma-lyhyesti Fleminginkatu 34, 00088 HELSINKI T +358 10 768011 S Group offers services in the supermarket trade, the department store and speciality store trade, service station store and fuel sales, the travel industry and hospitality business and the hardware trade. In addition, some regional cooperatives have automotive and agricultural outlets, and S Bank provides all co-op members with comprehensive banking services. The group sells clothing in Sokos Department stores and Prisma hypermarkets. Stockmann Oy www.stockmanngroup.com/en/en Address: Aleksanterinkatu 52, 00100 Helsinki T +358 9 1211 General buyers email: firstname.lastname@example.org Stockmann is a Finnish listed company engaged in the retail trade. It has almost 60,000 shareholders and about 15,000 employees. Stockmann's two divisions are the Department Store Division (Stockmann department Stores, Hobby Hall, Academic Bookstore, Stockmann Beauty and the Nevsky Centre shopping centre in St
Petersburg) and the Fashion Chain Division (Lindex). The divisions operate in 16 countries. Turo - www.turoshop.com/ Address: Citycenter, Keskuskatu 6, 00100 Helsinki (Turo Flagship Store) Citycenter, Keskuskatu 6, 00100 Helsinki T +358 50 529 6281 Email: email@example.com Turo is a global Finnish timeless, highquality, and easy to wear suit brand. Sources •
Bank of Finland, press release, “Upswing strengthens, supported by exports – in 2019 GDP will finally exceed the level of 2008”: www.suomenpankki.fi/en/mediaandpublications/releases/2017/upswing-strengthens-supported-by-exports-in-2019-GDP-willfinallyexceed-the-level-of-2008/ (accessed June 20 2017) European Commission/ Textiles and clothing in the EU: https:// ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/fashion/ textiles-clothing/eu_en (accessed June 5, 2017)
Finnish Textile and Fashion organization: www.stjm.fi/julkaisut-ja-tilastot/ tilastot/ *statistics (accessed June 2017)
MTV, Suomen hintataso euromaiden korkein – nämä maat halvimmat:www.mtv.fi/uutiset/kotimaa/ artikkeli/suomen-hintatasoeuromaiden-korkein-namamaathalvimmat/5205878 (accessed June 5, 2017)
Paytrail, ”Verkkokaupan vuosi 2016 lukuina”: www.paytrail.com/blog/ verkkokaupan-vuosi-2016-lukuina (accessed June 21, 2017)
Statistics Finland, ”Bruttokansantuote kasvoi 1,4 prosenttia viime vuonna”: http://tilastokeskus.fi/til/vtp/2016/// v t p _ 2 0 1 6 _ 2 0 1 7 - 0 3 16_tie_001_fi.html#_ga= 2.182916390.1894523074.1498739631572668454.1496829412 (accessed June 2, 2017)
Statistics Finland, ”Heikko taloustilanne heijastuuvähittäiska uppaan”: www.stat.fi/artikkelit/2014/ art_2014-12-08_009.html?s=0 (accessed June 2, 2017)
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Statistics Finland, Suomalaiset käyttävät internetiä yhä useammin: http://tilastokeskus.fi/til/sutivi/2016/ sutivi_2016_2016-1209_tie_001_fi.html?ad=notify (accessed June 21, 2017)
Taloussanomat, “Mittaava älyvaate valloittaa massoja”: www.is.fi/ taloussanomat/yrittaja/ art2000001810212.html (accessed June 23, 2017)
Taloussanomat, “Pian vaate on toinen ihosi”:
www.is.fi/taloussanomat/yrittaja/art2000001810218.html (accessed June 22, 2017)
Textile and Fashion Suppliers and Retailers Finland Association: www.textile.fi/fi/ajankohtaista (accessed June-July 2017)
Union United PAM, Vähittäiskauppa Suomessa 2015:www.pam.fi/media/ vahittaiskauppa_suomessa_2015_web_ 20150629_smaller.pdf (accessed June 8, 2017)
Uusi Suomi, ”Varoituksia eduskunnasta: Suomi nousi mutta vasta suhdannehuipussa – Emme ole valmiita uuteen iskuun”: www.uusisuomi.fi/r aha/222046varoituksia-eduskunnasta-suomin o u s i m u t t a - v a s t a suhdannehuipussa-nyt-uhkaa-jouusi-isku (accessed June 2, 2017)
Vaatetusala Suomessa 2017: http:// epublications.uef.fi/pub/ URN_NBN_fi_joy20080050/ URN_NBN_fi_joy-20080050.pdf (June 5, 2017)
Yle Uutiset, ”Vaatevienti ampaisi nousuun – suomalainen muoti tekee kauppansa sekä länsi- että itänaapurissa”: https://yle.fi/uutiset/39596481 (accessed June 14, 2017)
Älykankaita ja kukkamekkoja: w w w.etla.fi/wpcontent/uploads/ alykankaita__kukkamekkoja_ ETLA_B265_kansilla.pdf (accessed June 8, 2017)
The information above is not intended to be a legal, financial or other specialized advice. No warranty is given or responsibility accepted as to the standing of any individual, firm, company or other organization mentioned. (Courtesy: Flanders Investment & Trade Helsinki, C/o Embassy of Belgium, Helsinki, Finland)
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Prospering in the Circular Economy: The Case Of European Textile & Apparel Manufacturing Industry The need for a Circular Economy is becoming widely acknowledged across Europe and it is addressed by businesses, society and policy makers; initiatives are booming. Reducing waste, combined with an intelligent use of resources, has the potential to solve the gap resulting from natural resource scarcity and global growing population or consumption. Hundreds of textile sector companies have, successfully, innovated and adapted their business models to better compete and deal with the change. The potential is, however, much greater. While continuing its transformation, the SME-based European textile and apparel industry is in a privileged position to deliver and prosper in the Circular Economy; in fact, it is both close to consumers and instrumental to other sectors. In Europe, there is already a textile value chain capable of recycling fabrics, regenerating fibres and
maximising resources in production. This asset shall be consolidated and improved to profit from the opportunities of the Circular Economy and for which there is virtually no limit to growth. Prospering in the Circular Economy will truly be achieved by bringing together the existing private and public initiatives, removing barriers, investing to foster technological innovation and stimulating the demand. Considerations
Criteria to turn textile waste into valuable resource The currently valid Waste Framework Directive generates legal uncertainty due to different interpretations of endof-waste criteria including for textiles. Textile products are complex and are often made of different type of fibres and materials; it would be necessary to define criteria at EU level for which textile waste ceases to be waste. This would facilitate textile waste to become secondary raw material and a
valuable resource for further applications/uses. Such EU wide criteria would provide legal certainty to national authorities and operators and clarify the application of chemical and product legislation.
Example: An integrated textileclothing company sells half of the textile fibre residues as raw material on the European market but the current cost of managing, storing and transporting the â€œwasteâ€? almost outweighs the benefit. Having clear end-of-waste criteria would expand the fibres residue market and enable the company to obtain a higher price for the raw materials. Financial and administrative relief for managing textile waste To encourage a smooth transition from linear to circular economy, the costs of managing and shipping textile waste from collection sites to recycles should be significantly lower than the costs of incineration or landfill. The latter practices shall ultimately disappear.
Circular Economy in textile & clothing manufacturing
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INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Example: A textile recycling company can cover the costs of transporting the waste from the collector to the recycler within an area of 250 km; anything above this distance is financially not feasible. Furthermore, administrative obligations put an additional burden for textile companies to effectively manage their waste. Stimulate demand for recycled material and textile collection Numerous examples of companies and governments approaching the Circular Economy prove that voluntary initiatives can set up a market and a supply chain for recycled textile materials. Legal incentives and fiscal instruments should be considered to encourage the demand.
Green public procurement As one of the major consumers, public authorities have the opportunity to lead by example through supporting Green Public Procurement (GPP). This has an enormous potential to boost innovation for the Circular Economy, help costs reduction through scale economy and build up a Europe wider value chain.
Example: Successful cases have been reported in at least the Nordic countries, UK, Belgium, France and the Netherlands. Clearly not all products or public procurement may be satisfied by recycled materials, due to workwear specific functions, examples in the Netherlands and the UK suggests the existing voluntary initiatives can be expanded to workwear or can be introduced as new mechanisms in other countries.(Reference: ECAP Report: European Textile and Workwear Market: the role of public procurement in making textiles circular: www.ecap.eu.com) Collection schemes and partnerships Some fashion retails and brands operate recollection schemes also in coordination with the recycle industry incentivising consumers action. More recently a call for commitment and
Fibre bales, Textile Recycling of SOEX Group greater use of recycled materials has been made in fashion (Reference: Global Fashion Agenda: www.copenhagen fashionsummit.com/global-fashionagenda). These initiatives shall be valorised while ineffective mechanisms would penalise Circular Economy. Forced EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility) scheme at EU level without the right absorbing infrastructure would face important challenges including: sustainability of operation, increased pressure in the market to absorb second hand items and lack of a suffcient market for recycled fibres and technologies. Voluntary collection partnerships at EU level would better define roles, responsibilities and benefits for each actor in the supply chain. Different recycling potential and treatment costs of materials shall be considered (“one size does not fit all”). It is, therefore, challenging to set an effective single EPR scheme.
Example: Currently, only one EU Member State has in place a mandatory EPR scheme for textile products. While this experience should be valorised, it is not possible to evaluate its effectiveness with other EU countries. A report by the European Commission notes that the most expensive EPR schemes are not necessarily the most effective (Reference: EC Final Report “Development of Guidance on Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR)”: http:// ec.europa.eu/environment/). NCM-MARCH 2018 56
Investment in sustainable textile waste management & technologies SMEs make up the core of the textile manufacturing industry in Europe recognising the business opportunity for textile recycling, however, limited demand and infrastructure hamper further progress. The high cost of fibre sorting and limits in applicable technologies for mechanical/chemical recycling are considered as an obstacle to scaling up. Private and public investment combined with appropriate regulatory policy and business will greatly help the transition from linear to circular economy.
Example: To boost research and development in textile recycling such as in the project Resyntex, additional EU funding needs to be streamlined to the sector. This would greatly ease the companies’ transition to circular economy and enable development of innovative business models. Comprehensive approach to resource effciency Setting mandatory eco-design criteria might overregulate the sector which already needs to comply with stringent environmental measures. A more effective approach would incentivise eco-design as well as include the entire life cycle of a product in a form of a voluntary use of the Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) accounting for overall production process and resource effciency. This might stimulate importers to conform with European standards. SMEs would also benefit from training and supporting tools for
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES eco-design while training on eco-design would be valuable for designers. Addressing chemicals in waste Ensuring that recovered materials are compliant with relevant chemical legislation would be accelerated by advanced and cost-effective chemicals detection technologies. Such mechanisms would provide for better tracking of chemicals of concern in products and would gain confidence of consumers and recycling/recovery investors. The European Commission is addressing the issue of chemicals and waste interface in the Roadmap and consultations which aim to overcome barriers of recyclability and chemical traceability. Investigate microplastics
Recycling plant of SOEX Group
Global awareness on the emerging issue of microplastics shall be constructively addressed. Research carried out by the European Commission and national initiatives in which the textile sector participates shall deliver a clear understanding of causes and possible options. Solutions shall be investigated at EU level with all concerned actors and supported also within the Circular Economy. Consumers Positive consumption behaviour shall be encouraged and protected from misleading claims (“green-washing”). European and global consumers will ultimately reward the efforts made by the business and policy makers by choosing better products and by making the Circular Economy really sustainable. Key Policy Recommendations •
Setting clear end-of-waste criteria for textiles to enable the textile waste to become secondary raw material Stimulate collection and demand for recycled textile materials through partnerships rather than forced schemes and with cost-effective Green Public Procurement Investing in textile waste manage-
Fibre pulling, Textile Recycling of SOEX Group ment to overcome technological challenges •
Lowering the cost of textile waste management to de-incentivise landfill/incineration Drive sustainable consumer behaviour
A look ahead Based on the European industry experiences, EURATEX will support collaboration with the relevant consultation platforms engaged in 2017-18, advising policy makers and fostering opportunities.
The European Textile and Apparel industry is a key European manufacturing sector made up of 177.700 comNCM-MARCH 2018 57
panies, 99% are SMEs, producing primarily in Europe and integrated in the global value chains. This industry is transforming since 2004 when it starts to move away from mass market commodity goods to focus on high value, innovative and sustainable products and production which deliver garments to people as well as key materials for personal protection, sport, automotive, aerospace, construction, medical, and many other applications. Europe is the world’s second largest exporter of textile products generating Euro171 billion turnover and employing 1.7 million people.
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES 3D Printed Shoes: Covestro enables shoe innovator to 3D print on-demand shoes at Milan show Bonding soles via digital printing: Covestro provides technology and material solution with polyurethane ATOM Lab, the research unit of cobbling machines maker ATOM, exhibited an automated process for shoe production for the first time at the Simac Tanning Tech trade fair in Milan held from February 20–22, 2018. At its booth in Hall 14, visitors could select 3D-printed soles and uppers, and have customised shoes made for them. The most technically challenging step in this process is bonding the outsole to the shoe upper. Covestro has made an efficient solution based on polyurethane raw materials for adhesives, which are applied to the outsole or upper by means of digital printing. Digital printing of adhesives For the application, ATOM Lab used a variation of the melt layer method (Fused Filament Fabrication, FFF, or Fused Deposition Modeling, FDM). This method uses strands of meltprocessable adhesives – so-called filaments – which are melted. The molten adhesive is applied according to a digital print layout. The sole and upper are then joined under pressure. This creates a solid, permanent adhesive bond. This application using adhesive filaments is quick and efficient. Furthermore, it is very precise and reproducible, and it is also well suited for absorbent substrates. Due to the use of solid filaments, for example, the subsequent drying process may be dispensed. The adhesive features a high initial strength. Since application takes place from the melt, the adhesive is already activated. If the open time is sufficiently long, the fabricator can dispense with prior heat activation. Thus, 2 process steps can be saved in total.
Covestro´s digital print experts Dr. Jörg Tillack (right) and Lukas Breuers examine a shoe sole with an adhesive printed on it. In the background you can see a printer for fused filament fabrication (FFF).
Covestro: A world-leading manufacturer of high-tech polymer materials for key industries Covestro is a German maker of materials for insulation foams and transparent plastics catering to the demand for materials that the chemicals industry is struggling to meet. The company, which was spun off from Bayer in 2015, expects to achieve its target of 5 billion euros ($6.19 billion) for cumulative operating cash flow after deductions for investments in the three years through 2019 instead of five years, as previously targeted thanks to the rapid growth being reported by industrial customers such as makers of auto parts and construction materials. Covestro has reported that the global construction activity is driving sales of building insulation, and demand for lightweight car parts such as sunroofs made out of transparent plastics and reinforced plastic parts is growing as battery-powered vehicles need to shed weight. German cement maker HeidelbergCement has also predicted that the economic growth would fuel building material sales this year. Companies such as DowDupont and Saudi Aramco are ratcheting up investment plans to bring greater chemical output capacity on stream. With 2017 sales of EUR 14.1 billion, Covestro is among the world’s largest polymer producers. Business activities are focused on the manufacture of high-tech polymer materials and the development of innovative solutions for products used in many areas of daily life. The main segments served are the automotive, construction, wood processing and furniture, and electrical and electronics industries. Other sectors include sports and leisure, cosmetics, health, and the chemical industry itself. Covestro has about 30 production sites around the globe and as of the end of 2017 employed approximately 16,200 people (full-time equivalents).. Broad experience in additive manufacturing Covestro benefited from its experience in additive manufacturing with the technology and material solution developed on short notice. The company is inNCM-MARCH 2018 58
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For digital printing of adhesives using the melt layer method (FFF) the adhesive is applied in the form of strands – so-called filaments. They are fed from a role. volved in conventional printing methods and is currently developing a wide range of materials. Among these are filaments and raw materials for the FFF method, which so far has been used primarily in rapid prototyping.
Grosso Moda: From design & development, fabric and trimming sourcing to pattern making and fashion production. Thanks to Gerber’s Digital Solution adopted, Grosso Moda is able to deliver ‘custom made services’ to every client in their portfolio. They have the flexibility to offer experience and knowledge in every stage of the fashion production cycle.
Polyurethane adhesives have proven to be successful in shoe manufacturing. They are easy to process and result in flexible yet strong and durable adhesive joints with high impact resistance. Covestro offers a comprehensive range of raw materials for one- and two-component adhesives that are often developed in close collaboration with formulators.
Gerber’s Digital Solution is Adopted by Grosso Moda to Meet Speed and Industry 4.0 Trends The need for speed continues to intensify with ever changing consumer trends that evolve as technology makes it possible for ideas to spread quickly – creating the demand for the see now, buy now mindset. To succeed, fashion companies need to adopt technology and embrace digitalization to streamline workflows, which enable greater agility and speed without sacrificing quality and design. “The market evidence and conversations with our customers helped us to see the
need for digitalization,” said Guus Backelandt, CEO of Grosso Moda. “We’ve had a long partnership with Gerber and worked together to map out and present a fully digitized workflow including 3D design to one of our leading customers. Their strong, positive response validated the benefits we knew digitalization would enable." Often in the fashion development cycle, processes are fragmented and complex. Manual processes are slow. By leveraging Gerber’s YuniquePLM® Cloud, AccuMark® and AccuMark 3D software, Grosso Moda will empower the creative and design process further while at the same time improving speed, cost and agility. As a longtime NCM-MARCH 2018 59
user of Gerber’s industry-leading AccuMark pattern design, grading, marker making and production planning software, Grosso Moda realized the strength of automating processes. Adding YuniquePLM Cloud to improve the collaboration and organization of the overall design process will help their customer better leverage data so they can focus on the needs of their consumers, ensuring they get the right products to market, at the right time. “We have enjoyed a long, prosperous relationship with Grosso Moda and are excited to add AccuMark 3D and YuniquePLM Cloud to their mix of Gerber products,” said Bill Brewster, vice president and general manager,
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES enterprise software solutions at Gerber. “We think Grosso Moda will be a great example of the power of integration and digitalization.”
'Worst retail environment ever', says Western Australia based ‘Textile Traders’ - a retail firm which closes stores and moves online
YuniquePLM Cloud product lifecycle management software serves as a central repository of critical data and eliminates problems companies often face when using multiple Excel spreadsheets, email or tracking documents to communicate throughout the stages of product development and management. YuniquePLM Cloud creates a single version of the truth, connecting a company’s creative process with their supply chain & production processes.
About Grosso Moda Grosso Moda, a global fashion design and manufacturing company, specializes in managing the complexity of the fashion lifecycle for some of the world’s leading brands and retailers. The company supports their clients from inspiration to finished products. Grossa Moda will lead the industry in addressing consumer trends quickly by choosing Gerber’s Digital Solution, allowing them to fulfill their vision of becoming the ultimate source for delivering fashion forward products to their customers. Visit http://www.grossomoda.nl for more information.
About Gerber Technology Gerber Technology delivers industryleading software and automation solutions that help apparel and industrial customers improve their manufacturing and design processes and more effectively manage and connect the supply chain, from product development and production to retail and the end customer. Gerber serves 78,000 customers in 130 countries, including more than 100 Fortune 500 companies in apparel and accessories, home and leisure, transportation, packaging and sign and graphics.
Textile Traders has been a fixture of Perth's retail scene. Photo: Textile Traders Textile Traders, the fabric and sewing business that has been a household name in Western Australia for more than three decades, is closing its bricks and mortar locations, blaming the "worst retail environment the business has experienced". "The decision has been made to exit the retail stores and move to an online retail model. A full retail store closure is aimed for August 2018 and Textile Traders will work with landlords to exit these premises," the company said in a statement reported in local news media. "The family-owned business has 11 WA stores, a national online website and employs about 70 employees in its retail stores, including full-timers, parttimers and casuals," it said in a statement. "The hardest part of the process will be saying goodbye to many long-term and loyal team members that have become like family. The business will work with and support team members during this transition period."
Based in Connecticut in the USA, Gerber Technology is owned by AIP, a New York-based, global private equity firm specializing in the technology sector and has more than $3.0 billion assets under management. NCM-MARCH 2018 60
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Benny Reuben Managing Director, Textile Traders Many Western Australians will remember the advertisements, with their jingle "Hey, come in and save, Textile Traders," and their appearances from managing director Benny Reuben, who showed a surely genuine passion for his trade, and spun lovable puns such as "upholstery? We've got you covered!" "Textile Traders has been an important part of Western Australia's retail scene over its life and this difficult decision has not been made lightly," the company's statement said. Consequently, the move to a more cost effective and nimble online model is the right decision in order to keep in advance of the retail curve." Textile Traders will continue to sell its fabrics, craft supplies, sewing machines and home decorator products at www.textiletraders.com.au.
Dubai employer finds cost of labour & power too high in Kenya A Dubai textile company operating in Kenya has said the high cost of power and increased minimum wages have pushed up cost of production, a situation which may out-price their products. The company serves customers globally from Dubai, Kuwait, Bahrain, Muscat, Doha, Kenya, Morocco, Mauritius, Bangladesh & India. United Aryan (EPZ) Ltd, which has
Workers at United Aryan EPZ Ltd on Ring Road, off Thika Super Highway. The firm says Kenyan products can be competitive only if electricity tariffs are charged at $ 0.7 (Sh7) per kilowatt hour. been operating in Kenya for the last 16 years, said it is still paying high energy tariffs and spending heavily on wages compared to countries such as Ethiopia, Rwanda, Malawi and Egypt where the cost of labour is cheaper. The minimum wage in Kenya currently stands at Sh13,475. This is expected to rise to Sh15,372 this year if recommendations by the Central Organisation of Trade Union secretarygeneral Francis Atwoli to Federation of Kenya Employers will be ratified. “The manufacturing sector in Kenya has a very huge potential for growth unlike other countries in East African region. The only challenge we are facing as manufacturers at the moment is the high cost of power and high wages which have left us struggling to meet production costs,” said United Aryan (EPZ) Ltd founder and chairman Pankaj Bedi in an interview recently. Apart from increased minimum wage in Kenya which has led to higher costs of doing business, the country charges firms about $0.15 (Sh15) per kilowatt hour when taxes and other levies are incorporated, which is seen as uncompetitive compared to Ethiopia where manufacturers are paying as low as $0.4 (Sh4.14) per kilowatt hour. Electricity tariffs in Egypt and Uganda stand at $0.6 (Sh6) and $1.2 (Sh12) per kilowatt hour, respectively. NCM-MARCH 2018 61
Tanzania, on the other hand, reduced its tariffs to $14 cents (Sh14) while South Africa manufacturers are paying $0.9 (Sh9) per kilowatt hour. “A number of companies will prefer setting up their operations in Ethiopia because the cost of power, land and labour is cheaper,” he said. Mr Bedi said products in Kenya can only remain competitive if electricity tariffs are charged at $ 0.7 (Sh7) per kilowatt hour. He said should the situation persist, then companies planning to set up their bases in Africa will prefer operating in countries where the cost of power and labour is relatively cheaper. The textile contribution to the country’s gross domestic product (GDP) has stagnated at about 10 per cent in the last 10 years. Last year, the sector’s share to GDP fell to 9.2 per cent, the lowest growth compared to the economy. The lacklustre performance of the sector has been blamed as the reason Kenya has failed to achieve the targeted sustainable annual 10 per cent growth in GDP from 2010 as envisioned in the Vision 2030 plans. The best performance of the overall
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES economy was in 2010 when GDP expanded 8.4 per cent. Since then, it has grown below 6 per cent dashing hopes of an upper middle-income economy in the next 12 years.
tile auxiliaries. JOLLITY is headquartered in Taipei, Taiwan. SMIT & ZOON is a leading global supplier of wet-end and finishing leather chemicals for tanneries. They develop and produce leather chemicals used in the manufacturing of leather for wellknown brands of shoes, cars, furniture, clothes and bags. Smit & zoon is headquartered in Weesp, The Netherlands.
This has pushed Kenyan goods off the shelves in favour of cheap imports from international and regional markets, denying local industries revenues.
Ten Organisations join ZDHC The year 2018 began with ten organisations committing to the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme, a coalition of over 85 contributors. By joining ZDHC, these organisations commit to working together on the Programme’s vision of widespread implementation of sustainable chemistry, driving innovations and best practices in the textile, apparel and footwear industries to protect consumers, workers and the environment. The ZDHC Foundation oversees implementation of the ZDHC Programme which is aimed at advancing towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals in the textile, leather and footwear value chain to improve the environment and people's well being. By joining ZDHC, the organisations not only help to work on the Programme’s vision, but also commit to a strengthened commitment towards better chemical management practices and the adoption and implementation of ZDHC tools. These include, amongst others, the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL) and the ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines. “It’s great to see the continuous ongoing support from the industry.” says ZDHC Executive Director Frank Michel. “We appreciate the help and commitment from all our Contributors and are delighted to welcome these ten new organisations to our ZDHC Family.” Michel continues: “With the onboarding of the new Contributors we also enlarge
Frank Michel Executive Director, ZDHC our geographic scope and depth by welcoming the first organisation headquartered in Bangladesh as well as growth in the number of Contributors from Italy” Last month ZDHC officially launched the ZDHC Implementation HUB during the Friends of ZDHC Day in Amsterdam. The Implementation HUB takes the scaling of chemical and environmental management best practices to the next level and accelerates impact along the value chains of the textile, apparel, footwear and leather industries. Read more about the ZDHC Implementation HUB here. ZDHC was founded in 2011 by six leading brands and today consists of 85 contributors, divided into three categories - 23 Signatory Brands, 47 Value Chain Affiliates and 15 Associates. The ten new organisations join as Value Chain Affiliates and Associates in the following categories: Chemical Industry: JOLLITY ENTERPRISE CO., LTD. is a ISO9001/ISO14001/OHSAS18001/ bluesign certified manufacturer and ODM company that developed and produces leather, paper, coating and texNCM-MARCH 2018 62
ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd.: A British Investment, a state-of-the-art, composite manufacturing facility, with weaving, dyeing, printing, finishing, and packaging services, ACS stands as one of the largest of its kind in the industry. ACS Textiles is headquartered in Borpa, Bangladesh. SALIRONE is a unique and well-developed manufacturer for 100% Silicone Coated Materials with a team of chemists, material scientists, engineers and market experts for HPECO (Hyper-parameters ECO) Materials which are solvent free and zero discharge. Salirone is headquartered and factory located in Huizhou, China. Santori Pellami Spa is a family owned business that is specialised in the production and sale of leathers. Santori is headquartered in Monte Urano, Italy. Solution Provider: GEO-CHEM LABORATORIES PVT. LTD. (CPS) is an independent inspection and testing company. Today, they are one of the largest and most reputable inspection and testing organisations in India. Its CPS lab has complete capability for Testing, Textile, Leather & Footwear, Toys and HardLine. Geo-Chem CPS is headquartered in Gurgaon, India. Modern Testing Services (MTS) is an independent provider of technical services to the retail, vendor and manufacturing communities of consumer products. MTS is headquartered in Norwood, Massachusetts, United States of America.
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Process Factory srl is a consulting firm specialising in offering businesses and public administrations integrated solutions for organisation improvement. They already joined ZDHC as an Accredited Training Provider in January 2017 and will from now on also be part of the Value Chain Affiliate Category. Process Factory is headquartered in Florence, Italy. RITEX Research and Textile Testing Lab is a research and textile testing laboratory specialised in technological tests, chemical analysis and technical consulting services for the textile and clothing industry, leather and accessories. RITEX is headquartered in Cornedo Vicentino, Italy and is part of Ecochem Group S.p.a. Associate: UNPAC is the National Association that is formed of Italian leather chemicals manufacturers. Its members are strong and flexible in professionally meeting customer's requests and ready to safeguard the common interests of their area of expertise. UNPAC is headquartered in Valdagno, near Arzignano (VI), Italy.
GreenScreen Certified™ Standard for Textile Chemicals The ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Programme has declared the Clean Production Action’s (CPA) GreenScreen Certified™ Standard for Textile Chemicals as the newest ZDHC Accepted Indicator of ZDHC MRSL Conformance. With GreenScreen Certified™ Standard for Textile Chemicals, ZDHC now cooperates with six certifiers, which all indicate conformance to the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL) on different levels. The certificates that are issued by GreenScreen Certified™ Standard for Textile Chemicals may now be used by chemical suppliers to indicate Level 1 conformance of their products to the
GreenScreen® for Safer Chemicals GreenScreen is a globally recognized tool designed to assess and benchmark chemicals based on hazard. Companies and governments use GreenScreen benchmark scores to identify chemicals of concern to human health and the environment, select safer alternatives, and to track and communicate their progress. GreenScreen criteria and guidance are fully transparent and available for anyone to use.
“ZDHC’s leadership is transforming how apparel and footwear brands manage chemicals in their products and supply chains. Clean Production Action looks forward to partnering with ZDHC on their groundbreaking work.” – Shari Franjevic, GreenScreen® Program Manager ZDHC MRSL on the ZDHC Chemical Gateway - Chemical Module. “To accelerate the global impact of the organisation, we decided right from the beginning not to develop our own certification system for ZDHC MRSL conformant chemistry, but to leverage existing certification bodies instead,” says Scott Echols, ZDHC Programme Director. “We are proud to announce GreenScreen Certified™ Standard for Textile Chemicals as the sixth ZDHC Accepted provider of services to indicate Level 1 conformance to the ZDHC MRSL.”
About Clean Production Action’s GreenScreen Certified™ Standard for Textile Chemicals: Clean Production Action’s mission is to design and deliver strategic solutions for green chemicals, sustainable materials, and environmentally preferable products. GreenScreen Certified offers three tiers of certification based on GreenScreen® tools including GreenScreen for Safer Chemicals and GreenScreen List Translator. GreenScreen for Safer Chemicals is a globally recognized chemical hazard assessment tool that identifies hazardNCM-MARCH 2018 63
To obtain a ZDHC Accepted Certification Standard, interested organisations can apply for acceptance of their chemical formulation certification system by the ZDHC Foundation. To apply on line, just scan the above QR code on your mobile device to land on the application page. ous and safer chemicals through a rigorous benchmarking scoring system. GreenScreen List Translator is an automated screening tool that identifies known chemicals of concern using information from over 40 chemical hazard lists developed by international, national, and state governmental & intergovernmental agencies, and NGOs.
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Preventing International Trade Barriers In your business, you would certainly anticipate problems in order to avoid them. The same goes for regulatory barriers: if you export a product, you probably prefer to be alerted early about of new technical requirements applying to that product. In the EU, the internal market ensures that products move freely. But what if you are exporting outside the EU, in third countries? The WTO Agreement on Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) is can help you in this regard. *
It helps EU economic operators to get acquainted with rules applying to products in third countries
It allows unnecessary technical obstacles to international trade to be detected and removed at source, often with your contribution
TBT notification issued by EU on certain substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction (CMR) category TBT notification no. G/TBT/N/EU/538 dated 1st February 2018, has been issued by the European commission on certain substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction (CMR) category. The products mentioned in this notification fall under the HS Codes 50 to 64.
The regulation is briefly given below: The draft regulation introduces a list of certain substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction (CMR) category 1A or 1B, and sets concentration limits for those substances.
Trade Enquiry From Russia For Ready Fabrics The following trade enquiry from Russia is for ready stock. The importing company is interested to buy on a regular basis the ready stock of the following textiles (at a competitive price) from the Indian manufacturers of the same or big trading companies: 1. Twill, composition: 100% cotton and cotton+spandex, weight 220-350 GSM, solid colour. 2. Canvas solid colour, composition: 100% cotton, weight 275-550 GSM. 3. Poplin solid colour and yarn dyed for shirts and blouses, composition: 100% cotton and cotton+spandex, weight 100-180 GSM. 4. Corduroy, composition: 100% cotton or cotton+spandex, weight 4-10 OZ. Those interested to offer the above goods for exports to Russia may respond along with prices directly to the buyerâ€™s representative at the follwing contact details: Mr Sergei N. Baliuta (General Director) Mayur Co. Ltd. 16/11, Novoryazanskaya str., Moscow, Russia, 107078 Tel.: +7 (495) 625-92-78 Mob.: +7 (926) 211-44-52 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Readers are advised to check the credentials of the above contact before entering into any financial or contractual agreement. - Cadmium and its compounds
- Di-n-hexyl phthalate (DnHP)
- Chromium VI compounds
- N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone; 1methyl-2pyrrolidone (NMP)
- Arsenic compounds - Lead and its compounds
- N,N-dimethylacetamide (DMAC) - N,N-dimethylformamide, dimethyl formamide (DMF)
- Benzene - Benz[a]anthracene - Benz[e]acephenanthrylene - Benzo[a]pyrene, benzo[def]chrysene - Benzo[e]pyrene - Benzo[j]fluoranthene - Benzo[k]fluoranthen - Chrysene - Dibenz[a,h]anthracene - a, a,a,4-tetrachlorotoluene, pchlorobenzotrichloride - a, a,a-trichlorotoluene, benzotri chloride
It would prohibit the placing on the market of those substances in clothing and related accessories, textiles other than clothing which, under normal conditions of use, come into contact with the skin to an extent similar to clothing, and footwear.
- a-chlorotoluene, benzyl chloride
The following are the listed substances:
- Di-n-pentyl phthalate (DPP)
- Formaldehyde - 1,2-benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C 68-branched alkylesters, C 7-rich - Bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate - Diisopentylphthalate
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- 1,4,5,8tetraaminoanthraquinone, C.I. Disperse Blue 1 - Benzenamine, 4,4'-(4iminocyclohexa2,5-dienylidenemethylene)dianiline hydrochloride, C.I. Basic Red 9 - [4[4,4'bis(dimethylamino)benzhydrylidene] cyclohexa2,5dien1ylidene] dimethyl ammonium chloride, C.I.Basic Violet 3 With =0,1 % Of Michler's Ketone (EC no.202-027-5) - 4-chloro-o-toluidinium chloride - 2-Naphthylammoniumacetate - 4-methoxy-m-phenylene diammonium sulphate; 2,4diaminoanisole sulphate - 2,4,5-trimethylaniline Hydrochloride - Quinoline
The above listed restricted substances each have different properties and are used in different processes in the clothing and related accessories, textile and footwear industries.
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Yanfeng Automotive Interiors opens new innovation center in Neuss Bundling competencies at a new location in Germany Yanfeng Automotive Interiors (YFAI), the global leader in automotive interiors, has opened a new innovation center at the Neuss location. The space will house approximately 40 employees working on different disciplines relating to the vehicle interior of the future in this more than 2,550 square meter location. Forty of the total 600 YFAI employees in Neuss have moved. The objective of the new innovation center, which is located close to the site of the European headquarters, is to bring together all of the different functions of the innovation team under one roof. These include consumer and market research, as well as industrial design, product and process innovation, and user experience. In addition to the traditional interiors business of door panels, floor consoles, and instrument panels, the company is also focused on the interior of the future, which is increasingly characterized by the use of new, innovative materials and technologies. These include, for example, functional, smart, or adaptive interior surfaces that enable a new style, user experience, and interior function.
Yanfeng Automotive Interiors (YFAI), the global leader in automotive interiors, has opened a new innovation center at the Neuss location supports transparent and efficient working. It includes a new, spacious showroom for product innovations and the company’s concept cars. In total, the Yanfeng Automotive Interiors innovation team has approximately 150 employees working globally in four innovation centers. In addition to Neuss, they are also found in Shanghai (China), Holland (Michigan, USA), and Sunnyvale (California) which is located in Silicon Valley.
About Yanfeng Automotive Interiors: Yanfeng Automotive Interiors (YFAI) is the global leader in automotive interiors. YFAI is redefining how people relax, work and play in their vehicle interiors today and decades from now. Headquartered in Shanghai, the company has approximately 110 manufacturing plants and technical centers in 20 countries and more than 33,000 employees globally. They design, develop and manufacture interior components for all automakers. Established in 2015, Yanfeng Automotive Interiors is a joint venture between Yanfeng, one of the largest automotive suppliers in China and Adient, the global leader in automotive seating.
“We aspire to actively design the mobility of tomorrow, which is characterized by such global mega-trends as autonomous driving, electromobility, and car-sharing, as well as new players and technologies, rather than simply responding to significant changes in the automotive industry,” said Han Hendriks, Chief Technology Officer for YFAI. “With the new location we want to give our multi-disciplinary teams more space and also ensure improved cooperation.”
Uster Technologies AG Acquires Israel's Elbit Vision Systems for approximately $32 million
The new building offers the company’s creative teams room to stretch out and
Uster will acquire a 100% ownership of EVS, paying $3.40 per share, or approximately a 16.8% premium on the closing price of the Company's shares on
USTER invests in innovative technology to enhance quality control for textile manufacturers Uster Technologies AG, a Swiss company, expands its competencies in quality control and strengthens its product portfolio. USTER has signed a binding, friendly agreement to acquire Elbit Vision Systems Ltd. (EVS), a world-leading high-technology supplier for automated vision inspection in the textile industry. EVS’s products are used to automatically locate, label and trace defects of fabric and web products, and ultimately to grade the quality and determine the value of the produced goods.
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Watch EVS Finished fabric process on your mobile device February 9, 2018. This corresponds to an Enterprise Value of approximately $32 million. The acquisition of EVS by Uster has been approved by the Boards of Directors of both companies, and is subject, among other things, to the approval by the general meeting of the shareholders of EVS, which is expected to be obtained in March, 2018. Subject to the fulfilment of standard closing conditions, the transactions is expected to be completed during the second quarter of 2018. Thereafter, EVS will be a wholly owned subsidiary of Uster Technologies AG. Thomas Nasiou, Chief Executive Officer of USTER, said: “The acquisition fits perfectly into our vision to be the world’s leading supplier of quality solutions for the textile industry from fiber to fabric. It shows once again our commitment to continuously invest in cutting-edge technology and foster our culture of innovation. EVS and USTER’s combined technology will offer all our customers more potential for further automation and improvement for increased and sustainable performance.” Sam Cohen, Chief Executive Officer of EVS, said: "We believe that the merger with Uster Technologies is the optimal route for growing the business of the Company. Despite our success in turning the Company from a lossmaking enterprise with onerous levels of debt in 2010 – the year of our management takeover – to a profitable com-
EVS Finished fabric process pany with no meaningful debt, the last three years have seen revenues remain largely flat. As a result, the management of EVS has come to the conclusion that given the current conditions of the industries in which we operate and the capital markets, our ability to continue to increase shareholder value is extremely challenging and uncertain as a stand-alone entity.” Mr. Cohen continued: “Given the difficulties in showing our shareholders year over year increases in revenues, our board of directors and senior management team have spent the last 18 months conducting an in-depth analysis on alternatives for increasing shareholders value, including discussions with a number of potential acquirers and investors. We believe that the merger Sam Cohen with Uster, which represents approxiChief Executive Officer of EVS mately a 17% premium on our current share price, provides our shareholders with real value.
About Elbit Vision Systems Ltd. (EVS): EVS offers a broad portfolio of automatic State-of-the-Art Visual Inspection Systems for both in-line and off-line applications, and process monitoring systems used to improve product quality, safety, and increase production efficiency. About Uster Technologies AG: The Uster Group is the leading high-technology instrument manufacturer of products for quality measurement and certification for the textile industry. The Group provides testing and monitoring instruments, systems and services that allow optimization of quality through each individual stage of textile production. This includes raw textile fibers, such as cotton or wool, all staple fiber and filament yarns, as well as downstream services to the final finished fabric. Uster Technologies provides benchmarks that are a basis for the trading of textile products at assured levels of quality across global markets. The Group’s aim is to forward know-how on quality, productivity and cost to the textile industry. NCM-MARCH 2018 66
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Researcher of ITA and LfB win ICPRAM-Best Student Paper Award Image processing system allows cost savings of more than 2,000 euros per year and weaving machine MSc Marco Saggiomo from the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) and graduate engineer Marcin Kopaczka from the Institute of Imaging & Computer Vision of RWTH Aachen University (LfB) developed an image processing system for weaving machines that provides comprehensive benefits for woven fabric producers. The image processing system enables the weaving machine to detect faulty pickings autonomously. The application of the image processing system leads to cost savings of at least 2,210 euros per year for each weaving machine in comparison to manual faulty picking repairs. The researchers won the “Best Student Paper Award” within the framework of the 7th International Conference on Pattern Recognition Applications and Methods (ICPRAM) for their joint paper on “Fully Automatic Faulty Weft Thread Detection using a Camera System and Feature-based Pattern Recognition”. The award confirms the success of the co-operation of both institutes, ITA and LfB, which will be continued in future research projects. The image processing system is part of the doctoral thesis of Marco Saggiomo. Marcin Kopaczka supported ITA with the development of the image processing algorithm. The joint paper is based on the successfully concluded project WeftAlert within the framework of the German Federation of Industrial Research Associations. Further results of the WeftAlert project include the extension of the state of the art of image-based process optimisation of air-jet weaving, excellent outcomes in image process-
RWTH doctoral candidates Marcin Kopaczka (LfB) und Marco Saggiomo (ITA) with the award-winning image processing system (c) ITA Real (physical) objects melt together with information-processing (virtual) objects. These blends are called Cyber-Physical Production Systems (CPPS). The German government identifies this technological revolution as the fourth step of industrialization (Industry 4.0). Through embedding of intelligent, selfoptimizing CPPS in process chains, productivity of manufacturing companies and quality of goods can be increased. Textile producers especially in high-wage countries have to cope with the trend towards smaller lot sizes in combination with the demand for increasing product variations. One possibility to cope with these changing market trends consists in manufacturing with CPPS and cognitive machinery. This paper focuses on woven fabric production and presents a method for multiobjective self-optimization of the weaving process. Multi-objective self-optimization assists the operator in setting weaving machine parameters according to the objective functions warp tension, energy consumption and fabric quality. Individual preferences of customers and plant management are integrated into the optimization routine. The implementation of desirability functions together with Nelder/ Mead algorithm in a software-based Programmable Logic Controller (softPLC) is covered. The self-optimization routine enables a weaving machine to calculate the optimal parameter settings autonomously. Set-up time is reduced by 75% and objective functions are improved by at least 14% compared to manual machine settings. ing as well as the validation of image processing systems in laboratory and industrial environments.
Small lot sizes in the fabric production often involve a change of the fabric. A weaving machine with about 200 parameters has to be reconfigured after each change of the fabric to fulfill the expectations of the customer. In order to find the optimal configuration for the machine, the operator of the weaving machine has to conduct weaving trials. These time-consuming and wasteful trials require - depending on the experience of the operator - the weaving of up to 120 m of fabric until the optimal parameters are found [3,4]. This research paper presents an algorithm for multi-objective self-optimization of the weaving process and the integration of this algorithm into the machine control of the weaving machine. A weaving machine is upgraded to a cognitive unit (CPPS) on the shop floor. The algorithm for self-optimization identifies a combination of machine parameters, with the result that the essential objective functions can be adjusted to the individual preferences. NCM-MARCH 2018 67
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES
The EU-TEXTILE 2030 European project was kicked-off at a meeting (Kick-Off meeting) held in Ontinyent on February 8. The project is co-funded by the COSME program - Europe’s programme for small and medium-sized enterprises with the following main objectives: •
to consolidate the European Cluster of Advanced Textile Materials.
to develop a joint internationalization strategy.
to strengthen and extend the competitiveness of European SMEs in the sector at an international level.
The employers of the textile industry in the Valencian Community, Ateval, and the Catalan AEI Tèxtils, specialized in technical textiles, head the EUTextile2030 project, with European funds.
AEI Tèxtils and ATEVAL (Association of Textile Companies of the Valencian Community) are partners of the project, the latter being the coordinator. Other technical textiles' clusters taking part at the consortium are: CLUTEX from the Czech Republic, POINTEX from Italy, UP-TEX and TECHTERA form France and Sachsen! Textil EV from Germany. The European Textile Technology Platform, the British Nwtexnet, the Portuguese Cluster Têxtil, Tecnologia e Moda, the German Icgt, the Italian Texclubtec, and the fair organizer Messe Frankfurt are collaborating in the initiative. The new initiative, whose implementation period lasts until Nov 2019, already has concrete actions in S. Africa, Israel, South Korea, Colombia, & Japan.
AEI Tèxtils (Agrupació d’Empreses Innovadores Tèxtils) - a non-profit association-aims to join all Catalan companies & organizations related directly or indirectly to the technical textiles sector and have a specialized productive area with competitive advantages.
AEI Textiles promotes a European cluster of the technical textiles sector COSME is the EU programme for the Competitiveness of Enterprises and Small & Medium-sized Enterprises running from 2014-2020 with a planned budget of EUR 2.3 bn. SMEs are the backbone of Europe’s economy, providing 85% of all new jobs. The European Commission aims to promote entrepreneurship & improve the business environment for SMEs to allow them to realise their full potential in today’s global economy. NCM-MARCH 2018 68
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Hohenstein certification complies with new PPE regulation 2016/ 425 Accredited and notified bodies in the product sector of Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) are tested at regular intervals and, if the test is successful, are granted renewed approval for accreditation and notification. The Hohenstein Group has successfully passed this test and may continue to certify in accordance with the new PPE regulation. Bonnigheim (Germany): Personal protective equipment has a preventative health function in the world of work for those working in trades and crafts as well as laboratory technicians and the fire brigade: the high quality and special technology of PPE protects them from possible risks. For this reason it is important that protective clothing complies with the high demands of harmonised standards. The new regulation now expands the application area to include private use so that these users too can benefit from the same level of protection. The current PPE directive 89/686/EEC directive for the certification of personal protective equipment is valid until 20 April 2018. Afterwards, the certification body of the Hohenstein Group will only issue EU type examination certificates in accordance with the new regulation. The Hohenstein Group has adapted itself to the new requirements after receiving renewed approval for accreditation and notification. Thus, with the Hohenstein Group, you have an internationally renowned and independent partner at your side who will conduct all tests and certifications for you that are important and necessary for manufacturing and selling your products in the European Economic Area. Personal protective equipment always requires a CE certification label in the EU. As the application areas for PPE
are very diverse, PPE is divided into three different categories. Personal protective equipment in protection category II and III (high/deadly risks) is subject to a conformity evaluation process by a certification body/notified body - such as the Hohenstein Group. The Hohenstein Group can carry out these EU type examinations for your PPE. In doing this, we confirm that your PPE meets the relevant provisions of the regulation. As a notified body we also carry out quality assurance in the form of product tests. We test the uniformity of the product and conformity of the PPE with the certified sample. The advantage of testing and certification by the Hohenstein Group: -
You increase the safety and quality of your products and make a strong argument for your market presence
You reduce your liability risk and the probability of complaints due to documented tests and standards
You receive a certificate from an accredited and notified testing and certification body which confirms the safety of your product and which has a high level of international acceptance NCM-MARCH 2018 69
On 01/01/2018, Ms Claudia Maier took over the management of the Hohenstein Group Certification Centre. Ms Maier is already looking forward to working with your company. The Hohenstein Group is an internationally renowned and independent testing institute. As an accredited and notified body with modern laboratories, we can offer manufacturers and retailers a wide range of testing services and certifications for their products. Expertise & Support around Pattern and Fitting Service: From product idea to market launch With our expertise, we support you all the way from product idea to market launch. You decide whether you want to take advantage of our pattern and fitting services throughout all phases of product development. Each service can be combined upon your individual requirements. DEVELOPMENT AND DESIGN You are developing new designs? We can help you preparing and improving basic and design-specific pattern as well as associated measurement charts. To supplement that, thereâ€˜s our fitting service once the prototype has been sewed.
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES READY FOR PRODUCTION When your garments are ready for production, Hohenstein reviews and grades your pattern. We will also be glad to provide you the final production measurement chart. Once a complete set of sizes has been produced in the original material, our fitting service will evaluate the fit. For an appropriate fitting we have access to a pool of over 600 models representing all age groups and sizes. With this testing procedure we ensure that the pattern, measurement charts and the set of sizes meet the Hohensteinâ€™s high quality standard. Your garments are now ready for production! PRODUCTION MONITORING With our production monitoring service we also offer you support throughout the production process. Our inspectors operate around the world. They sample goods during production and send them to the German chlothing technology competence centre. Our experts evaluate the fit of the garments thereby ensuring high & consistant quality during production. Based on the results of the final fitting you receive our shipping approval. NCM-MARCH 2018 70
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Textile Industry is Hopeful About 2018 Textile and its raw material industry recorded an approximate of 2.5% increase in 2017 while Turkey's general export increased by around 10%. Ready to wear and garment industry stayed at nearly the same level as the previous year. Even though we can't talk about a serious increase for both of the industries we also can't monitor a shrinkage. Textile and garment exporters have focused their growth targets in 2018. Board Chairman of Istanbul Textile and Raw Materials Exporters Association (ITHIB) Ismail Gulle disclosed his 2018 expectations. Gulle expressed that applications that open the way to exports such as providing exporters with green passport, new government incentives, Credit Guarantee Fund (KGF) and Exirnbank's strong and effective solutions for financing requirements will put out an image of Turkey growing through exports. Ismail Gulle pointed out to exporters providing growth through increased production, employment and exports despite credit rating agencies lowering Turkey's credit rating. Arguing textile and its raw material industry has broken the record in 2017, Gulle highlighted that the year was dosed with 10 billion USD worth of export. Mentioning an 11.1% increase in Q3 of 2017, Mulle recorded the effects of production industry, service industry and exports increase in the growth. â€œWe forecast a similar increase and export trend in 2018â€? said Gulle while pointing out to the new strategies developed in order to increase the exports. Gulle said industry growth numbers and the increase in capacity usage rates are reporters for new investments and employment. Ready to wear industry is focusing on the EU market Indicating a 3% increase in exports in the first 11 months of 2017, Hikmet
Tanriverdi, Chairman of Istanbul Apparel Exporters' Association (IAEA) stated that the year will be closed with 17 billion USD worth of exports. Sorting the most important markets for the industry as Germany, UK, Spain, Russia and Iraq, Tanriverdi argued that the exports will be better since the reconciliation in EU relations. Tanriverdi forecasted a 8-10% increase in ready to wear and apparel export in 2018. Istanbul Textile and Raw Materials Exporters Association (ITHIB) is a leading entity representing the textile exporters of Turkey with its membership of over 4000. Active throughout the country, ITHIB members deal with the production and export of various textile products such as yarn, fabric, home textile, industrial/technical fabric and accessories. ITHIB members contribute to more than 70% of the total textile export of Turkey and form the majority of the Turkish textile manufacturers and exporters. ITHIB represents its members pursuant to the interests of the textile sector and aims to encourage the sustainable development of Turkish textile export. In addition to this, ITHIB aims to protect the common interests of Turkish textile sector both in the national and international platforms and also at governmental level. NCM-MARCH 2018 71
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES EU Delegation of Parliamentarians Evaluates Human Rights Conditions in Garment Factories in Myanmar The EU Delegation, consisting of European parliamentarians paid a visit to Unique HTT in Hlaing Tharyar industrial zone on 15th February for evaluating human rights conditions in garment factories in Myanmar. They were accompanied by Myanmar Garments Manufacturers’ Association and SMART Myanmar officials. Daw Khine Khine Nwe, Secretary General of MGMA explained and gave presentation for Myanmar garment industry’s growth & development and benefits derived from economic development and jobs creation in Myanmar. In a presentation, she acknowledged that the EU GSP trade facility continues to benefit the garment sector in Myanmar. SMART Myanmar also made a presentation about project overview with a focus on work with garment factories on social & environmental capacity building. The EU delegation’s tour was arranged for checking the factories and for improving the awareness about compliance standards. Factory owners were asked to stress on respecting the human rights of factory workers. In the closing session, members of the delegation raised various questions related with the human rights aspects which were answered by Daw Khine Khine Nwe. Earlier, the EU Palimentary Delegation visited Unique HTT in the morning of 15 Feb 2018. During the visit they discussed how EU granted GSP is having positive effects on the improvement of the garment sector. The Textile & Garment Industry in Myanmar is set to offer a huge growth potential over the next five years driven by exponential rise in the Regional NCM-MARCH 2018 72
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP). The deal aims to cover goods and services, investments, economic and technical cooperation, competition and intellectual property and is to play a great contribution to Myanmar’s Textile & Garment Industry. The RCEP represents a modern, comprehensive, high-quality, and mutually beneficial economic partnership agreement among the ASEAN Member States and ASEAN’s FTA partners. The RCEP negotiations started in early 2013. Myanmar is starting to get more attention and investment in the garment manufacturing sector, despite some persistent political and labor strife. Last year in October, Myanmar SUMEC Win Win Garments Co., a unit of SUMEC Textile and Light Industry Co., opened a new factory in Shwe Pyi Thar Industrial Zone in Yangon. The new factory, with 40 production lines currently, is designed to have 50 production lines with the capacity to produce 4 million pieces of apparel annually. This would increase the company’s yearly capacity to 10 million pieces in Myanmar and lift its exports to $100 million. This is Myanmar's largest Chinese-invested garment company. With Myanmar’s economy becoming more open, more Chinese firms are investing there. Speaking at the opening ceremony, U Aung Htoo, Myanmar’s Dy Minister for Commerce, had promised preferential policies to give the industry opportunity for growth. It is expected that the boost given to new factories will create more jobs and contribute to the country’s economic growth.
The official launch event (the opening ceremony) of Myanmar SUMEC Win Win Garments Shwe Pyi Thar Factory On October 27, 2017 Venue: Yangon Convention Center - YCC Address: 37 Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Mayangone Township, Yangon 11191
MTG is co organized with Myanmar Garment Manufacturers Association (MGMA) and officially supported by Union of Myanmar Federation of Chambers of Commerce and Industry (UMFCCI). Almost 10,000 visitors participated in MTG 2017 and is a great opportunity for exhibitors to reach a large proportion of the Textile & Garment Market in Myanmar. Date: 6-8, December, 2018 10:00-17:00; 9, December, 2018 10:00-16:00
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Organizer: Yorkers Trade & Marketing Service Co., Ltd Co-organizer: Myanmar Garment Manufacturers Association (MGMA) Official Supporter: Republic of the Union of Myanmar Federation of Chambers of Commerce & Industry (U.M.F.C.C.I.)
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PAGES Lycra® Brand Receives The Femmy Diamond Jubilee Award LYCRA® brand team members gathered in New York City last month to attend the Femmy Awards, the premier event of the Intimate Apparel Industry. The Underfashion Club, a charitable organization comprised of industry professionals, hosted the fundraising gala at Cipriani 42nd Street on February 6. Save-the-date, FEMMY Awards 2018 The group’s mission is to attract new talent to the industry and support their education through awards and scholarships. The LYCRA® brand took home the Diamond Jubilee Award, which recognized its 60 years of revolutionary innovations. Coincidentally, the Underfashion Club is also celebrating its 60th anniversary this year.
Bob Kirkwood Executive Vice President of Marketing & Technology, INVISTA Apparel
It takes a team Bob Kirkwood, INVISTA Apparel’s Executive Vice President (EVP) of Marketing & Technology, graciously accepted the award on behalf of the LYCRA® brand. In his speech he acknowledged the miracle fiber’s inventor, Dr. Joseph Shivers, who will be inducted into the National Inventors Hall of Fame this May. He also thanked members of the brand team who continue to drive innovation forward today, as well as the mills, garment makers, brands and retailers whose ongoing support makes the brand’s success possible.
FEMMY Awards 2018: Lingerie student designs “The 2018 FEMMY Awards, an annual award show sponsored by nonprofit organization The Underfashion Club, honored individuals and companies that significantly contributed to the growth and creativity of the intimate apparel industry. The event was hosted by Dita Von Teese and held on February 6, 2018 at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York.”
Other award winners The FEMMY gala also included the 15th Annual Student Design Contest, which featured designs of Fashion Institute of Technology students based on the theme, “60 Years of Intimate Apparel Design.” The talented winners received cash awards. The evening’s other honorees were: -
Retailer Award: TARGET
Manufacturer Award: Komar Intimates
Supplier Award: Texco Hook & Eye Tape Ltd.
Lifetime Achievement Award: Donald R. Allen, Jr.
The 2018 FEMMY Awards were the first in a year-long series of events celebrating LYCRA® fiber’s milestone 60th anniversary! NCM-MARCH 2018 74
NEWS BRIEFS PDEXCIL organises an exclusive exhibition cum buyer seller meet: India International Textiles Expo - Colombo 2018 With a view to increase the export of all types of textiles particularly the fabrics being manufactured by the Powerloom entrepreneurs, the Powerloom Development & Export Promotion Council (PDEXCIL) organized ITExpo-Colombo 2018, a 3 day event, showcasing the Incredible Textiles of India. An exhibition cum Buyer Seller Meet was held from 21-23 February, 2018 at the Grand Ballroom, Galadari Hotel, Colombo, Sri Lanka. The event was organized under the MAI scheme of the Ministrv of Commerce, GOl. Market Access Initiative (MAI) Scheme is an Export Promotion Scheme envisaged to act as a catalyst to promote India's exports on a sustained basis. The scheme is formulated on focus product-focus country approach to evolve specific market and specific product through market studies/survey. The Chief Guest at the inauguration ceremony was Dr. Sarath Amunugama, Minister of Special Assignments of Sri Lanka. Anoma Gamage, Deputy Minister of Petroleum Resources Development of Sri Lanka, Arindam Bagchi, Acting High Commissioner of India, Felix Fernando, Chairman, Sri Lanka Apparel Export Association, and Purushottam Vanga, Chairman, PDEXCIL were also present. Dr. Sarath Amunugama noted the stellar contribution of textile sector to Sri Lanka's economy. He mentioned about the upswing in the sector in the post conflict period, and noted that there are huge opportunities especially
The India International Textiles Expo (IITExpo) - Colombo 2018 - Exhibition cum Buyer Seller Meet organized by the Powerloom Development and Export Promotion Council (PDEXCIL) of India was held at Hotel Galadari last week. Here chief guest at the inauguration ceremony Minister of Special Assignments, Dr. Sarath Amunugama takes a close look at some of the textile on display. considering the regaining of GSP plus status from the EU. He cited the rich textile traditions in both India and Sri Lanka, and said that Sri Lanka sourcing of textile material from India, and transforming it into apparel and garments for rest of the world, could lead to win-win situation for both the countries.
various blends, textures, colours and designs from various clusters of India. Namely; Tamil Nadu (Erode, Salem, Karur, Coimbatore), Solapur, Bhiwandi, Mumbai (Maharashtra), Ahmedabad, Surat (Gujarat), Kishangarh (Rajasthan).
Acting High Commissioner of India Arindam Bagchi noted that India would encourage Sri Lankan companies to be part of the supply and value chains of large Indian companies. He noted that apart from traditional fabrics, there is a niche market for products such as banana and bamboo fibers, organic dyes; Sugandha Vastra (Ayurvedic Spice Dyed Garments) etc. and our effort should be to innovate and grow together. He also urged Sri Lanka to make use of fully-funded training opportunities in India, under Indian Technical & Economic Cooperation (ITEC) program, in which a number of slots is earmarked for textile related subjects.
Initially, the PDEXCIL had planned to have a Group participation in the 10th Colombo International Yarn & Fabric Show 2018 but due to various reasons including comparatively higher participation cost, it was decided to hold a more focused event. Other reasons for not having the Group participation were poor response received from the members and the organizers' inability to provide any additional support service. Finally, it was decided to organise an exclusive exhibition cum buyer seller meet, as successfully organised in 2013 and 2017. Another reason for this decision was that the Fair was mostly targeting only Sri Lankan Buyers, with whom Indian exporters already have good business relations.
More than 40 Indian Fabric manufacturers & exporters displayed varieties of Apparel fabrics (woven, knitted and non-woven), Made-ups, Home Textiles, Traditional items etcâ€Ś in
Chairman of Powerloom Development & Export Promotion Council (PDEXCIL), Mr. Purushottam K. Vanga, stated: â€œSri Lanka is one of the biggest garment manufacturing
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NEWS BRIEFS The Export scenario of some textile commodities to Sri Lanka from India Commodities
Mr. Purushottam K. Vanga Chairman, Powerloom Development & Export Promotion Council (PDEXCIL)
Value (Mn USD) 2015-16
Cotton Fabrics, Made ups etc
Natural Silk Yarn, Fabrics, Made ups
Manmade Yarn, Fabrics, Made ups
Woolen Yarn, Fabrics, Made ups etc
RMG Cotton lncl. Accessones
Carpet (Excl. Silk) Handmade
hub in the neighboring country of India. These garment units largely depend on imported fabrics and thus India serves as a good source of importing fabrics and other textile items. This will definitely be a win-win situation for both Indian and Sri Lankan Entrepreneurs to directly interact to furthering their respective business interest. The event will definitely position India as a reliable source of import of textile items to Sri Lanka.â€? Sri Lanka is one of the biggest Garment manufacturing hub in the neighboring country of lndia. European Union (EU) has granted GSP+ to Sri Lanka for '0' duty imports to EU for Sri Lankan Apparel Exports, w.e.f. 19th May, 2017 resulting in a considerable rise in Apparel exports from Sri Lanka to EU. The Garment units are mostly dependent on imported fabrics and due to geographical advantage, Indian exporters have a very good potential for enhancing export of fabrics and other textile items to Sri Lanka. The local trade importers/ sourcing agencies also look for good quality of fabrics and other textiles from outside of Sri Lanka. The Export scenario of some textile commodities to Sri Lanka from India is presented in the above table. NCM-MARCH 2018 76
NEWS BRIEFS PDEXCIL has had a longstanding association with Sri Lanka since 1998. PDEXCIL had organized participation by major importers in various RBSMs and an MDA during March 2017 which has further developed the business relations with Sri Lankan buyers. PDEXCIL also has an MOU with Sri Lankan Apparel Exporters Association (SLAEA), which was signed on the sidelines of Textiles India 2017, the first ever Global B2B Textile event held in India, organized by Ministry of Textiles, Government of India in Gujarat in June 2017, which saw participation from several Sri Lankan companies. It is expected that the fabric exporters from India will be benefitted from this development.
The PDEXCIL is set up by Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India for the promotion of overall growth and export of the powerloom sector in India. Having its Head office at Mumbai, and Regional Office at Erode (Tamil Nadu); they also organize buyer-seller meet, exhibitions, in India and overseas in order to promote the Powerloom sector, and conducts Seminars & workshops for the benefits of SME sector, to develop the skills in the industry with the support of the Govt. of India.
International Cotton Association Ltd. (ICA) Delegation Visits the Cotton Association of India (CAI) A two-member delegation from International Cotton Association Ltd. (ICA), Liverpool consisting of its President, Mr. Salman Ispahani and Managing Director, Mr. Bill Kingdon visited the Cotton Association of India (CAI) on 27th February 2018 and met the CAI team led by its President, Mr. Atul S. Ganatra. The CAI President took the visiting delegates on tour of the imposing and
A view of the ITExpo-Colombo 2018 historic premises of the Association. The issues discussed between the ICA and CAI include a proposal for organising a training programme on ICE futures in Mumbai, organising a road show on ICA By-laws and Rules at the domestic conference being organised by CAI on 2nd September 2018, visit of ICA delegation to Maharashtra to coincide with the said CAI domestic conference on 2nd September 2018, harmonizing CAI Bylaws with ICA, not allowing parties appearing in the CICCA unfulfilled award list to become CAI members, certification of one or more testing facility by ICA Bremen and use thereof for the purpose of dispute redressal by ICA, appointment of the NCM-MARCH 2018 77
CAI recommended arbitrators and conciliators from India on the panel of ICA, etc. Both parties have mutually agreed to review progress in the activities of cooperation between each other from time to time. Earlier a dinner was hosted by the CAI on 26th February 2018 in honour of the ICA team. Both the ICA and CAI have a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) since 2014 to combine efforts to promote better cotton trading practices, upholding sanctity of contracts and to pursue the cause of cotton globally and effectively. The areas of cooperation between both the ICA and CAI include
NEWS BRIEFS organising yearly meetings to discuss issues of mutual interest and further ways to increase cooperation between each other, visits of delegation and organising training programmes; information exchange and dissemination, liaisoning with Government, apprising quality related issues and speedy resolution of issues faced by each otherâ€™s members, etc. Cotton Association of India estimates cotton crop for the 2017-18 season at 367 lakh bales. A reduction of 8 lakh bales from its earlier estimate of 375 lakh bales Cotton Association of India (CAI) has released its January 2018 estimate of the cotton crop for the year 2017-18 beginning from 1st October 2017. In its latest estimate, the CAI has estimated cotton crop for the ongoing 2017-18 crop year at 367 lakh bales of 170 kgs. each. A statement containing the state-wise estimate of the cotton crop and the Balance Sheet for the cotton season 2017-18 with the corresponding data for the year 201617 was released. The CAI has lowered its estimate of the cotton crop for the ongoing season by 8 lakh bales. The reason for this reduction is severe infestation of the cotton crop by pink bollworm. In accordance with the advice of the scientists, the farmers in several areas particularly in Maharashtra and Telangana States have uprooted their cotton crop without waiting for further pickings. The projected Balance Sheet drawn by the CAI estimated total cotton supply for the season at 417 lakh bales of 170 kgs. each including the opening stock of 30 lakh bales at the beginning of the season and the imports which the CAI estimated at 20 lakh bales for 2017-18 crop year. The domestic consumption is estimated to be 320 lakh bales while CAI estimates exports for the season to be 55 lakh bales. The carry over stock at the end of this season on 30th September 2018 is estimated to be 42 lakh bales. NCM-MARCH 2018 78
NEWS BRIEFS As per the data received from each cotton growing local state association, the CAI estimates cotton arrivals upto 31st January 2018 at 211 lakh bales as compared to 157.75 lakh bales arrived during the same period last season. The state-wise arrivals are given in the enclosed statement. Domestic cotton prices fall and fall in rupee helps exports revive A 3% fall in rupee, since January, has made Indian cotton competitive in the global market. The domestic cotton prices have fallen 4-5% to Rs. 40,000 rupees per candy (1 candy = 356 kg) in major spot markets. Traders have also reported an increase in export inquiries. According to the Cotton Association of India (CAI), export orders for over 3.0 mln bales (1 bale = 170 kg) have been signed since Oct 1, 2017. Out of this about 2.8 mln bales are reported to have been shipped out so far. The CAI President Atul S. Ganatra has expressed his confidence that the overall export orders will cross 3.5 mln bales and actual shipments figure will also touch 3.0 mln bales very soon. The positive outlook is based on the reports that India stands to gain from the lean season in the US which has dried up its surplus exportable cotton stocks. Therefore, major consumers of cotton such as Pakistan, Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Turkey are expected to turn to India to source their cotton requirements.
Arvind Ltd. plans to set up an integrated apparel & textile park in Chittoor, Andhra Pradesh Ahmedabad based Arvind Ltd. has signed a memorandum of understanding (MoU) with the Andhra Pradesh Economic Development Board (APEDB) to set up an integrated apparel and textile park in Chittoor. The MoU was signed between Kulin Lalbhai, Executive Director, Arvind Ltd,
MoU was signed between Kulin Lalbhai, Executive Director, Arvind Ltd, and J Krishna Kishore, Chief Executive Officer, APEDB, in the presence of Chief Minister N Chandrababu Naidu and J Krishna Kishore, Chief Executive Officer, APEDB, in the presence of Chief Minister N Chandrababu Naidu. According to the media reports, Arvind Ltd, the renowned Lalbhai Group Company, plans to establish the facility in multiple phases across 100125 acres with a capacity to produce 24 million pieces of shirts, jeans per annum. Arvind is India's largest denim manufacturer and the world’s fourth-largest producer and exporter of denim. The proposed facility in Chittoor envisages an initial investment of Rs. 250-300 crore and is expected to create 15,000 jobs in the first phase. NCM-MARCH 2018 79
Arvind will also undertake skill development of over 5,000 workers in garmenting in the proposed unit. The integrated park would help Chittoor, a backward district, to rapidly scale up on value-added industrialisation. J Krishna Kishore, CEO, APEDB, said: “Textiles is a priority sector for Andhra Pradesh as the state aims to increase productivity and efficiency by attracting integrated textile units.” The Chief Minister N Chandrababu Naidu has been giving special impetus to textiles and garments due to its potential to create large scale employment, especially for women. The State government has been trying to attract textile majors to establish their units in Andhra Pradesh.
NEWS BRIEFS State Textile Policy 2018-23: Government of Maharashtra The Government of Maharashtra, Cooperation, Marketing and Textile Department, has announced the State Textile Policy 2018-23 vide Government Resolution No.: Policy 2017/C.R. 6/Text-5 on 17th February, 2018. The extracts from this policy document are reproduced below. The textile sector plays an important role in the national economy owing to its major contribution to the GDP, industrial production, employment generation and export revenue generation. The textile industry contributes 14% of India’s industrial production, 4% of its GDP, and 13% of its total exports. The textile industry is one of the leading employment generating industries in the country, employing approximately 5 crore people. The Indian textile industry has the second largest industrial capacity in the world. Availability of raw material, skilled manpower and lower production costs are its key strengths. The readymade garments sector was worth Rs. 6 lakh crore in the FY 201617. The market for readymade garments is divided into three segments viz. domestic market, industrial market and international market. Out of the total readymade garments production, 60% is consumed in domestic sector, 21% is consumed in the industrial sector while 19% is exported. The export of raw fabric and readymade garments will continue to grow in the coming years. In Maharashtra also, the textile industry plays an important role in the State’s economy. It is the second largest employment generating sector after agriculture. There has been a sizeable increase in the ginning, spinning and weaving industry in the State. The State has efficient rail, road, port and airport infrastructure for connectivity, availability of electricity, skilled
manpower and abundantly available cotton. The State has set an objective of achieving 100% processing of all the cotton grown in the State. Keeping this objective in mind, and to realize the concept of “Fiber to Fashion”, the State declared its Textile Policy 2011-17 in Jan 2012. The policy led to investments to the tune of Rs.20,000 crore in the sector with employment generation of 3 lakh. The State produces ample quantity of silk in addition to cotton. Sericulture and silk processing industry is an important agriculture and forest based employment generating sector. A farmer can generate an income of approximately Rs. 8 Lakh per Ha in this sector. Maharashtra is the leading non-traditional silk producing State in the country. Sericulture requires less water as compared to other cash crops. It can provide the farmers a guaranteed source of income and thus can prevent rural migration to cities. The State has a very conducive environment for sericulture. Mulberry and Tussar plantation can even withstand unstable weather conditions. The increasing demand for the silk and silk products in the domestic and the export markets, provides for a guaranteed source of income for the farmers. Thus sericulture has good potential to support the State’s policy of doubling farmers’ income. Further, the NCM-MARCH 2018 80
Mahareshim Abhiyan could provide an opportunity to uplift the beneficiaries of the Forest Rights Act. The State annually produces approximately 1400 metric tonne of wool from the ‘Deccani’ sheep. However, the sheep rearing community is not able to benefit financially due to lack of supporting infrastructure in the State. Establishment of wool processing industries oriented towards value addition will help boost the income of the sheep rearing community and also reduce rural migration to cities. Apart from cotton, silk and wool, Maharashtra produces a large quantity of bamboo, banana, ghaypat, ambadi and coir. These could be good sources of non-conventional yarn. Today farmers have to pay for removal of the banana barks after harvesting. However, the banana barks can be processed to produce yarn and this can result into an immediate additional source of income for farmers. The State’s new Textile Policy will provide a stimulus to the textile industry in the State. The policy is aimed at generating 10 lakh new employments in the next 5 years and doubling the farmers’ income by 2022. The policy, which is expected to attract investments worth Rs. 36,000 crore, will provide many benefits including competitive power tariff and increased capital subsidy for SC/ST and minority categories. The policy lays special
NEWS BRIEFS focus on strengthening the knitting, garmenting and hosiery sector which will create ample employment opportunities for women. This will prove to be an important step forward towards women empowerment and development of women entrepreneurs. The policy aims not only at further strengthening the cotton, silk and wool sectors but also promoting non-conventional yarn production, skill development and increased use of green energy. The State’s innovative measures for the revival of the textile industry is the focal point of the policy. It lays great emphasis on and preference to skill development as well as research & development. Under this policy, the State will establish a first of its kind Textile University and will collaborate with leading technical institutes in the textile sector to undertake world class research & development projects in agriculture universities. This initiative will help fill the void in theoretical and practical aspects of textile education in the State. The Textile Department has planned to create a Textile Development Fund for sufficient and timely funding as well as meeting essential infrastructure needs of the textile industry. This fund will be generated out of government equity returned by the cooperative spinning mills, sale of the textile department’s land and other assets and 50% of CSR funds from various textile industries which have availed government subsidies and other benefits. At present out of the total cotton production in the State, only 25% of cotton is utilized by spinning mills while the rest of the cotton is sent out of the State. Additionally grey cloth and yarn is sent out of the State for dyeing and processing. The policy is aimed at reducing this gap in the production and processing resulting into an integrated “Farming to Marketing” value chain in the State. In view of the above, the State Textile policy 2018-23 is designed to gener-
ate employment in the State through processing of cotton, silk, wool, nonconventional yarn and man-made fiber. Government Resolution: The State Textile Policy is hereby approved vide this Government Resolution. The salient features of State Textile Policy are enumerated in the following paragraphs. Period of the Textile Policy This Textile Policy will come into effect from the date of issuance of this Government Resolution and will continue to be in effect till 31st March, 2023. Objectives of The Textile Policy 2018-23 1. Encourage setting up of Fiber to Fashion value chain. 2. Generate 10 lakh new employments in the textile sector. 3. Special focus on development of the textile industry in cotton growing areas. 4. Special focus on processing, knitting, hosiery and garmenting sectors to create an internationally competitive textile industry in the State. 5. Set up pollution free/ecofriendly dyeing and processing industry. 6. Increase Mulberry and Tussar cultivation, increase Silk yarn production and create a silk tourism corridor. 7. Encourage traditional silk weaving businesses such as the Paithani Saree. Also create, promote and market “Adhyatmik Reshim” brand. 8. Special focus on non-conventional yarn (bamboo, banana, ambadi, ghaypat, maize, coir, etc.) and its usage with a view to doubling farmers’ income. 9. Focus on reviving the entire wool industry from shearing to garmenting to marketing. NCM-MARCH 2018 81
10. Special focus on the emerging sector of technical textiles. 11. Provide the textile industries with the latest technical expertise created by institutes such as IITs, SASMIRA and WRA which are actively engaged in R & D in the textile industry. Definitions Existing Project: Any project existing prior to the announcement of this policy and any project coming under expansion / diversification / modernization during the period of this policy. New Project: Any project established and starting production during the period of this policy. Expansion Project: Any existing project increasing its gross fixed capital investment by 25% and increasing its total production capacity by 25% as compared to the previous year will be considered as expansion or diversification. Such expansion and/or diversification will include forward and backward integration. Gross Capital Investment: Investment in machinery before expansion/ diversification/modernization and/or investment made from financial assistance approved by financial institutions/banks. Modernization Project: Conversion of old simple powerloom to shuttleless rapier loom and to any loom based on advanced technology. Diversification Project: Any project undertaken by an existing unit to produce additional product(s) of the textile value chain. Project Cost: Aggregate cost of land, building and machinery. Eligible Machinery: Machinery eligible under centrally sponsored TUFS scheme (including any subsequent modifications by the Central Government to these schemes) or machinery approved by the State Government. Eligible Amount: Long term loans for
NEWS BRIEFS capital subsidy under the centrally sponsored TUFS scheme (including any subsequent modifications by the Central Government to these schemes) or long term loans (excluding taxes) approved by financial institutions or banks for machinery approved by the State Government. Eligible amount for self-financed projects: As per the criteria of centrally sponsored TUFS scheme (including any subsequent modifications by the Central Government to these schemes) or cost of machinery (excluding tax) approved by the State Government. Eligibility for Capital Subsidy: The eligibility for capital subsidy will be decided based on the installed capacity of the project and actual annual production. Composite Unit: A project comprising minimum two activities of the value chain, i.e. spinning, weaving, knitting, processing and garmenting. Technical Textiles: Such textile production which is aimed not only at fabric production but also at creating products which could be used in the industrial, defence, research and other advanced sectors due to its specialized technical properties. These products are classified into following categories based on their quality and end use: (1) Agro tech, (2) Build tech, (3) Cloth tech, (4) Geo tech (5) Home tech, (6) Ind tech, (7) Medi tech, (8) Mobile tech, (9) Echo tech, (10) Pack tech, (11) Pro tech (Protective textile) (12) Sport tech, (13) Defence tech, (14) Products announced by Textiles Ministry of Central Government from time to time. TUF Scheme: Amended Technology Upgradation Funds Scheme (A-TUFS) of the Central Government or any scheme amended by the Central Government from time to time. Textile Components included in Textile policy 2018-23:
integrated silk park/synthetic filament/yarn texturing, crimping and twisting 3. Weaving and powerloom 4. Technical textile, non-woven and converters of non-woven 5. Knitting/hosiery/garment / apparel & made-up 6. Processing of fiber/yarn/fabric/ garments / made-ups 7. Processing of non-conventional fiber/yarn/fabrics/garments/madeups (bamboo, banana, ghaypat, maize, coir, hemp, etc) 8. Expansion of existing textiles units
applications (Form A) under Textile Policy 2011-17 will continue to receive the benefits declared under that policy till the beneficiary period of that project. Extension to the Textile Policy 201117: The long term loans approved from 18 April 2016 to 15 February 2018 will be eligible for benefits as per the Government Resolution 2015/C.R 364/ Text-5 dated 18 April 2016. Further, the self-financed projects which have ordered machinery between 2 December 2015 and 15 February 2018 will be eligible for benefits as per the Government Resolution dated 2 December 2015.
9. Textile Parks / processing parks 10. Energy saving and process control equipment for various textile sectors 11. Skill development activities 12. Wool sector (i.e. scouring, combing, spinning (worsted, shoddy and woolen) and weaving and carpet sector. 13. Standalone spinning 14. Spinning with matching downstream capacity 15. Manufacturing viscose filament yarn/viscose staple fiber 16. Independent weaving preparatory 17. Embroidery on standalone basis 18. Composite upgradation (i.e. units going for upgradation in spinning, weaving/knitting and processing) 19. Multi-activities (units with two or more activities simultaneously except composite upgradation mentioned above) 20. Composite unit 21. Other units of textile industry not mentioned herein
1. Cotton ginning and pressing
Scheme under Textile Policy 201117:
2. Spinning/silk reeling and twisting/
Projects which have submitted their NCM-MARCH 2018 82
Following schemes will be implemented for the development of Textile industry under Textile Policy 201823:
Co-operative spinning mills 1. The scheme of government equity for co-operative spinning mills will be implemented only in the cotton growing districts of the State. 2. The scheme will be implemented only in those talukas where less than 50% of the cotton produced is consumed in the spinning mills situated within those talukas. 3. The ratio of self-equity of co-operative spinning mills, government equity and loan from financial institutions will be 10:30:60 with an aim to provide timely government equity to the co-operative spinning mills. Increase in the self-equity of co-operative spinning mills may be considered in future. 4. A provision will be made for appointment of a Government Gazetted Officer as Managing Director by the co-operative spinning mills for human resource development. Training programs will be developed for skill development, capacity building and overall management.
NEWS BRIEFS 5. A scheme will be formulated to encourage/award the co-operative spinning mills based on parameters such as operational performance, power saving, savings in expenditure, audit rating, measures taken for increased profitability / loss reduction, return of government dues, etc. The co-operative spinning mills will be given preference in government schemes including funding and any other subsidy schemes. 6. Administrative measures will be put in place for use of modern machinery and solar power by co-operative spinning mills. 7. One Time Exit Policy: Co-operative spinning mills and co-operative powerloom societies will be allowed to be privatized provided they are ready to return the government equity, loan and interest thereupon. If there is any change in the industrial use of the land then an amount will have to be paid to the government as per the prevailing rules.
Powerlooms: Maharashtra has 13 lakh powerlooms accounting for 50% of the powerlooms in the country. The plain powerloom accounts for 80% (approx. 10 lakh) of the total powerlooms in the State. The following schemes, supplementary to the central schemes, for modernization of plain looms will be implemented with an aim to improve the quality of fabric, productivity of the units, power efficiency, and to make the industry competitive in the domestic and international markets. State scheme for modernization of plain powerlooms: The State Government will provide the following grant to the powerloom owners who have received the grant from the Central Government under the centrally sponsored â€œPilot scheme of in situ upgradation of plain powerloom for SSI Sectorâ€? for modification of plain powerlooms: This scheme will be implemented as
Sr. Type of modernization No.
Subsidy rate per loom (Rupees) General Category (35%)
Scheduled Castes (20%)
Scheduled Tribes (8%)
Conversion of simple powerloom to SemiAutomatic shuttle loom
Conversion of SemiAutomatic shuttle loom to Shuttle less rapier loom
Conversion of simple powerloom to Shuttle less rapier loom
per the terms and conditions of the Central Government scheme. The policy of sanctioning financial assistance after receipt of beneficiary details from the Central Government will be followed. If the scheme is modified by the Central Government then the State Government will also modify the scheme accordingly. Other schemes for Powerlooms: The Central Government is implementing Group work shed scheme, Yarn bank scheme, Common Facilitation Center (CFC - decision center/ studio, testing facilities, trading center, information cum trade center & common raw material/yarn/sales depot, water treatment plant for industrial use, dormitory residential space, common pre-weaving facilities viz. yarn dyeing, warping, sizing and twisting etc. and post-weaving facilities viz. processing, etc.) and Solar energy scheme for powerlooms units. The State Government will prepare schemes supplementary to the central schemes as per the guidelines and conditions set by the Central Government. The policy of sanctioning financial assistance after receipt of beneficiary details from the Central Government will be followed.
Administrative simplification of schemes covered under Textile Policy 2011-17 1. Merger of TUFS linked and delinked schemes: Due to changNCM-MARCH 2018 83
ing interest rates, the administration of the subsidy under the TUF schemes is complicated. Hence a decision will be taken for administrative simplification (Ease of Doing Business) of such subsidy process. 2. With an aim to simplify administrative procedures and reducing processing time, the approval process for construction and purchase of machinery by the spinning mills and powerlooms will be decentralized. 3. Online processing of schemes covered` under the Textile Policy: Paperless office and online processing of schemes will be implemented in accordance with the objectives of administrative simplification and Ease of Doing Business.
Capital Subsidy in lieu of Interest Subsidy: The policy of capital subsidy in lieu of Interest subsidy to the new, expansion & diversification / modernization projects undertaken during the Textile Policy 2011-17 will be continued with modifications in the Textile Policy 2018-23. Additional capital subsidy will be granted to processing plants set up in the cotton growing areas of Vidharbha, Marathwada and North Maharashtra. The details of the Capital subsidy rate and the duration for various textiles units are as follows:
NCM-MARCH 2018 84
NEWS BRIEFS *
Construction cost of ETP/CETP/ ZLD in the processing projects will be eligible for capital subsidy.
** Composite Unit: If particulars mentioned in Column 2 are not included then 35% for other processes and if particulars mentioned in Column 2 are included then 40% for those specific processes. -
5% additional capital subsidy for projects with investment of Rs. 500 crore and above. If it is the first project / pioneering project in that taluka then additional 5%, totaling to 10% capital subsidy will be applicable.
Capital Subsidy will be disbursed as follows: i. First Instalment: 30% of eligible amount after 12 months from start of production
To open the On line MoU link of the Maharashtra Government on your mobile device, just scan the QR code given on the left hand side.
ii. Second Instalment: 30% of eligible amount after 24 months from start of production
Key Features of the New Textile Policy of the Maharashtra Government (2018 - 2023)
iii. Third Instalment: 40% of eligible amount after 36 months from start of production iv. The following projects will be eligible under this scheme: a) Projects for which the long term loan has been approved for machinery under the centrally sponsored TUFS scheme from the date of issuance of this Government Resolution or thereafter till 31 March 2023. b) Ginning and spinning projects for which the long term loan has been approved till 31 March 2023 by banks/financial institutions and where the projects have submitted Form-A on the State Government website. Capital subsidy for self-financed Projects: 1. New/Expansion/Diversification/ Modernization self-financed textile projects will be granted capital subsidy as per capital subsidy in lieu of Interest Subsidy Scheme.
1. You Innovate - We Reward: Additional 10% capital subsidy for green initiatives like vegetable dyeing, producing non-conventional yarn etc.& its uses. 2. Setting up unit in Vidarbha, Marathwada or North Maharashtra for promoting regional balance! We offer 10-20% extra subsidy. 3. Supporting 'Make In India' programme: Offering additionaI 5% capitaI subsidy to investments of more than Rs. 500 Crores. 4. Most competitive electricity tariff : -
Subsidy of Rs. 3/unit for cooperative spinning mills
Subsidy of Rs. 2/unit for powerloorms using more than 200 HP
Subsidy of Rs. 2/unit for spinning mills & processing units using more than 107 HP
5. Subsidy given to Powerloorns has been extended to other textile value chain units like Processing, Garmentinq, Knitting, Hosiery etc. 6. Excelling the state in Research & Development through international standard R&D centres in State universities 7. Rewarding environment friendly set-ups: Additional capital subsidy (including construction cost) for ZLD - ETP - CETP
Inviting proposals for: Textile University in PPP mode. (Land and connstruction by state government) NCM-MARCH 2018 85
NEWS BRIEFS 2. Self-financed projects in the Vidarbha, Marathwada and North Maharashtra regions will be granted additional capital subsidy. 3. Textile projects of scheduled castes/scheduled tribes/minority communities will be granted capital subsidy as per the above mentioned capital subsidy in lieu of Interest Subsidy Scheme. 4. Terms and conditions of Government Resolutions dated 2 December 2015 and 18 December 2015 will be applicable to the capital subsidy in lieu of Interest Subsidy Scheme for self-financed projects with necessary modifications. Textile Parks 1. The scheme of providing Rs. 9 crore or 9% of project cost, whichever is lower, to the projects by the State Government and those which are approved under Central Government SITP scheme (Government Resolution dated 25 May 2012) will be continued. 2. Integrated Textile Hubs / Parks by the MIDC will be set up at Amravati, Aurangabad, Beed, Buldhana, Jalna, Jalgaon, Nanded, Parbhani, Yavatmal and Wardha. Essential infrastructure such as roads, water, electricity, etc. and facilities of testing labs and CETP will be provided at these Integrated Textile Hubs / Parks. At least 100 Ha land at each of these Mega Integrated Textile Hubs will be developed. 3. Similar Textile Hubs/Parks will be set up as per requirement in the Vidarbha, Marathwada and North Maharashtra regions through MIDC. 4. Textile Parks/Hubs will be established by MIDC at Ichalkaranji (Hatkanangle) and Solapur. Processing ( Pre & Post) 1. The existing State scheme of 25% of project cost or Rs. 37.5 crore whichever is lower for projects approved under centrally spon-
sored IPDS scheme (Government Resolution dated 10/02/2015) will be continued. 2. Capital subsidy will be given for machinery required for ZLD/ETP/ CETP in the processing projects. 3. Processing parks including CETP will be set up in coastal areas by MIDC. 4. Land for hard waste disposal will be provided in respective districts. 5. Processing parks including ZLD / ETP/CETP will be set up on priority by the MIDC at Ichalkaranji, Malegaon and Bhiwandi. 6. Processing projects having ZLD / ETP / CETP will be provided with electricity at a concessional rates since the costs of operating the ZLD/ETP/CETP projects and the hard waste disposal are very high. 7. Financial assistance will be provided to institutes such as SASMIRA and IIT to set up water free/effluent free dyeing/processing projects. 8. Water will be reserved for processing plants since these plants require large quantities of water. Knitting, Hosiery and Garmenting 1. Plug & play premises will be established by MIDC in each District/ Taluka of Vidarbha, Marathwada and North Maharashtra for setting up of knitting, hosiery and garmenting units. 2. These premises will have facilities like Common Facilitation Centre, Worker Training Centre, etc. These facilities will be run by unit owners associations/co-operative societies/private limited companies, etc. 3. Schemes tailor-made to meet the working requirements of women will be formulated for setting up of decentralized knitting, hosiery and garmenting units for women in their rural regions. 4. Garment parks will be established at Nagpur and Solapur through NCM-MARCH 2018 86
funds generated by sale of Narsingh Giriji Spinning Mill at Solapur and Empress Mill at Nagpur. Remaining funds will be transferred to the “Textile Development Fund”. 5. Training of workers and entrepreneurs will be conducted by industrial bodies and NGOs through the Central Government’s skill development schemes, CFCs and State Government’s Pramod Mahajan Skill Development Scheme. These trainings will include hard skills, soft skills and life competencies skills. Mega Projects 1. New or expansion projects of the textile sector with investments of Rs. 100 crore or generation of employment for at least 250 in any Taluka will be granted the status and incentives of a mega project under the Industries Department’s Packaged Scheme of Incentives. 2. Status and Incentives of mega projects shall also be applicable to combined investment or employment generated by various units of the same entity of the textile sector, set up in the same Taluka. Incentives to Promote use of Green Energy: 1. Special incentives will be given to textile projects implementing environment friendly solar and wind energy projects. 2. If spinning mills, powerlooms and textile projects are ready to set up green energy projects then the State Government, in collaboration with MEDA, will formulate a scheme for providing appropriate subsidy to reduce the overall power subsidy. Electricity Concessions 1. Cross subsidy on open access will not be levied for textile units. 2. The State Government’s Energy Department will not levy charges
“It’s always darkest before it’s totally black.” NCM-MARCH 2018 87
NEWS BRIEFS other than “transmission charges” on projects using non-conventional sources (solar, wind, etc.) of energy. 3. A subsidy of Rs. 3 per unit will be given to co-operative spinning mills for a period of 3 years. Within this period of 3 years the units will set up non-conventional power projects to fulfil their power needs. The restriction of 1 MW is removed from the net metering scheme. The subsidy of Rs. 3 per unit will not be applicable to open access. The subsidy will be reviewed every year and will be reduced to keep the overall annual subsidy burden within Rs. 150 crore. 4. A subsidy of Rs. 2 per unit will be given to powerlooms using power above 200 HP. 5. Subsidy given to powerloom units using less than 27 HP, 27 to 200 HP and more than 200 HP, will similarly be applicable to garment, knitting and hosiery units. 6. A subsidy of Rs 2 per unit will be given to spinning mills (except cooperative spinning mills), processing units and all other textile units which are using more than 107 HP power. 7. It is observed that the electricity rates for units using upto 27 HP are more than the rates applicable for units using 27 to 107 HP. Necessary action will be taken to eliminate this disparity. 8. When any unit is simultaneously using conventional and non-conventional power, the use of both the power sources will be taken into consideration to decide the load factor. 9. A committee comprising the Director General, Maharashtra Energy Development Agency (MEDA) and the Director Textile will be set up to finalise the subsidy required for setting up of co-operative spinning mills on solar power within three years.
Advertising, Branding and Marketing 1. Textile fairs and seminars will be organized in Vidarbha, Marathwada & North Maharashtra regions where textile parks will be set up by MIDC. These will be organized in collaboration with the Industries Department, Textile Department and the Textile Commissioner of the Central Government to promote the Textile Policy among the ginning and pressing entrepreneurs, fabric merchants and entrepreneurs. 2. Workshops will be organized in collaboration with MIDC in the leading States such as Punjab, Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh to attract large industrialists and investments. 3. Textile Policy will be given adequate publicity through print and electronic media. 4. Seminars and exhibitions organised by State/National level textile organizations at State, National and international level will be encouraged 5. State/National level organizations will be encouraged to conduct fashion shows etc. to promote the fabric and garments manufactured in the State at international level. 6. Wide publicity of the schemes covered under the Textile Policy would be done through gramsabhas for the growth of the textile industry and involvement of young rural entrepreneurs. 7. The Textile Policy will be included in the State Government’s strategic policies. 8. Incentive schemes will be implemented to promote grading of cotton bales and to incentivize branding of such graded cotton bales. This will ensure availability of uniform quality of bales for the spinning industry, which in turn will ensure high quality fabric. NCM-MARCH 2018 88
9. A scheme will be formulated for branding, marketing and distribution of products made from handloom & non-conventional yarn through Maharashtra SSI Development Corporation, Maharashtra State Handloom Corpn., Khadi & Village Industries Commission & Coir Board. A Committee will be set up under the Chairmanship of the Director-Textile to coordinate the implementation of the scheme. Handloom Development The policy for the development of the State’s handloom sector, wherein the State Government’s share of fund to centrally sponsored schemes and supplementary schemes is made available as and when required, will be continued. There is an increasing demand for the handloom products in the domestic as well as international market. The State Government will develop new schemes for design of handloom products, fusion, etc. in collaboration with NIFT to cater to this increasing demand and to attract young weavers. The loan and the interest thereon given to the Maharashtra State Handloom Corporation will be converted to government equity to strengthen the Maharashtra State Handloom Corpn. Training A scheme will be formulated for State Government funding to CFCs subsequent to the receipt of Central Government funds, for their utilization for training. This will help maximize the impact of the Central Government’s Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS). Additional training courses will be designed by the industrial training institutes (ITIs) to cater for the needs of the textile industry. The government will formulate schemes for integrated three tier development of the workers (hard skills, soft skills and life skills) with the help of experts in this field.
NEWS BRIEFS Training courses will be developed for the textile industry and co-operative spinning mills in the areas of human resources development, power savings, time management, supply chain management, skill enhancement and ISO certification, etc.
1. Promoting sericulture and group farming to create a guaranteed source of income for farmers. Private sector involvement will be promoted to sustain sericulture.
Research and Development
3. Efforts will be made to increase the production of silk cocoons and silk yarn so as to produce more silk than the traditional silk growing States.
1. A Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) will be signed with leading technical institutes such as Indian Institute of Technology (IIT), SASMIRA and WRA for research, development and use of state-ofthe-art technology for development of textile, silk and wool industries in the State. 2. The State Textile University will be set up in the State with support from the Central Government and in collaboration with Agriculture, Higher Technical Education and Skill Development Departments. This University will offer certificate, diploma, graduate and post graduate degrees related to the textile sector. Silk Development The State produces ample quantity of silk in addition to cotton. Sericulture and silk processing industry is an important agriculture and forest based employment generating sector. The silk industry can provide the rural population a guaranteed source of income and thus can prevent rural migration to cities. Its cash crop nature as well as increasing demand for silk in the domestic and international market have created vast opportunities for silk production in the State. The silk industry is a boon for farmers affected by unpredictable weather and can help them generate regular income. It is also very crucial to increase the agricultural growth rate and to double farmers’ income. Considering the importance of silk industry and its scope for generating employment, the following measures will be undertaken to bring the silk industry to the forefront of the State’s economy:
2. Research on high yield mulberry plant species will be encouraged.
4. The work of establishing a silk cocoon market at Jalna will be duly completed. 5. Development of existing silk farms into research center/nursery/training centers, etc. 6. Development of one silk farm as a Model Silk Farm/Silk Training Center at Amravati, Aurangabad, Nagpur and Pune.
take cocoon processing as an industry as well as mulberry and Tussar farming. 13. e-Platforms will be provided for the sale of silk weavers’ products. 14. The Directorate of Sericulture will be restructured with technically competent staff to provide increased outreach and support to potential farmers/entrepreneurs and to boost infrastructure capacity building. 15. The benefits under the current Sericulture scheme are limited to holdings of 1 acre which limits provision of “farm ponds”. In view of providing irrigation, the benefits will extended to holdings of 2 acres while keeping the costs same for the unskilled component. 16. Tussar is a forest farm plantation. Hence the land ownership ceiling will be increased from 2 to 4 Ha.
7. Development of silk farming through mulberry group farming/ women self help groups (SHGs)
17. Disease free laying (DFL) production capacity of the Gadhinglaj production center will be increased.
8. Credit linked capital subsidy will be provided to silk entrepreneurs, weavers and weavers’ groups for silk dyeing/processing/weaving machinery.
18. Chawki centers at Gadhinglaj, Amravati and Aurangabad will be set up.
9. Setting up of private silk cocoon production centers, Chawki centers, nurseries, etc. will be encouraged. 10. Mahareshim Campaign will be conducted during the months of March-April each year in collaboration with BARTI (Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar Research and Training Institute, Pune) to create awareness on sericulture and to register new farmers. 11. Tussar Silk farming will be increased through greater plantation of Ain/Arjun trees in collaboration with the Forest Department. 12. Incentives similar to those provided to farmers will be provided to private businesses to underNCM-MARCH 2018 90
19. Tussar cocoon market will be set up at Armori (Gadchiroli district) and Bhandara. 20. Tussar tourism corridor will be established across the forest / tiger reserves at Tadoba, Pench, Navegaon and Nagzira through Forest Department and MTDC. 21. Drying centres and godown facilities will be made available to store and preserve silk cocoons. 22. Advertising & Marketing of Sericulture: Diverse media (Newspapers/Akashvani/Gramsabha/ Doordarshan/Reshim rath, posters, conferences, exhibition etc.) will be used to create awareness about the silk industry among the farmers and entrepreneurs.
Contd. On Page 92
NEWS BRIEFS State Textile Policy 2018-23: Government of Maharashtra Contd. From Page 90 Wool Industry The State annually produces approximately 1400 MT wool per year from the Deccani sheep. However less than 1% wool is procured by the Punyashloka Ahilyadevi Maharashtra Mendhi va Sheli Vikas Mahamandal. There is no other infrastructure for processing, production and marketing of the wool in the State. Despite the large production of Deccani wool and increased demand in the domestic and international markets, the large sheep rearing community is deprived of the financial benefits due to non-availability of value added processing within the State. Availability of value added processing and marketing facilities for wool in the State will make sheep rearing a source of independent employment generation and will be financially beneficial to the sheep rearing community. This will help reduce their migration to cities. Following measures will be undertaken to achieve this: 1. The State will establish a pilot wool processing unit on PPP (Public Private Partnership) basis to process the Deccani wool produced in the State in collaboration with
the Center’s Wool Research Association, Thane. Similar projects will be set up in sheep rearing districts based on the success of the pilot project. 2. A scheme will be formulated for onsite visits and training for enhanced skill development. Further, a plan of action will be formulated to reserve government land for “sheep rearing areas.” 3. The Directorate of Textile, Nagpur will monitor and manage the procurement, processing, production and marketing of Deccani Wool. 4. Bamboo plantation will be included within the ambit of MGNREGA in a manner similar to that of Tuti / Mulberry plantation. Special incentives for production and use of non-conventional yarn Special focus will be given to research on production and use of non-conventional yarn (bamboo, banana, ambadi, ghaypat, maize, etc). Incentives will also be provided for production and use of non-conventional yarn. Farming of these sources of non-conventional yarns will be included within the ambit MGNREGA. Farm ponds for irrigation will be made available wherever required. The Textile Directorate will be renamed as Textile Commissionerate for effective administration on a pattern
similar to that of the EGS Commissionerate, Skill Development Commissionerate and Animal Husbandry Commissionerate. Silk Directorate will be under administrative control of the Textile Directorate. The necessary administrative approval will be sought from the High Power Committee (HPC). Textile Development Fund will be created to provide funds for government equity, State subsidies as well as for branding and marketing. This fund will be generated through the sale of land of Empress Mill and Nagpur Weavers’ Co-operative Spinning Mill, funds raised through privatization of spinning mills, government equity returned by the co-operative spinning mills as well as 50% of the CSR funds provided by the textile units. Government Resolutions and guidelines will be separately issued by the respective departments for implementation of the schemes covered under this Textile Policy.
The Government Policy should be brief, clear and easy to understand for people who are intended to be the beneficiaries. Otherwise, it is going to be abused, and ultimately fail.
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