FUTURE - Issue 1

Page 1

FUTURE ISSUE 1 DECEMBER 2016

RiY

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CONTENTS

36 - Cover story 4

Meet the team

5

Editor’s letter

48

7

Female skateboarding

52 Lucas Nord

10

Exhibition: Banksy

45 ifeatit’sit! ugly,

16 24 28 36

Benjamin Alexander Breaking up with booze Wheiman Leong Riya Hollings

The silence of the lambs

64 58 SLART art 68

Alexa Chung X M&S Exhibition: Bedlam

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Fabric to reopen

76

Creepyeha and her babydolls


ISSUE 1 - DEC ‘16

CONTRIBUTORS Philippa

Marina

PRODUCTION EDITOR

CREATIVE DIRECTOR This girl glues the magazine together. The stuff she can do on a computer will blow your mind if her sexy accent doesn’t. You’ll find her slaving away over indesign or tucked under her staple beanie hat, perving on skateboarders in the park.

Nothing will hold this Northern girl down. Don’t be deceived by her size (she put the ‘p’ in petite) because she’s pretty level headed. She’s got London wrapped around her little finger. She’s always the last one at the party, dressed all in black and killer shoes.

We take on art, culture and fashion. And everything that comes in between. There’s definitely something in here for everyone. Feel free to get Nan a copy.

What the future holds is exciting, it needs to be celebrated. Let us introduce you to cool kids who are making their voices heard, not afraid to be themselves. We salute.

This social butterfly is one of the cool kids. He keeps the FUTURE family going with red wine, cigarettes and that bloody Irish charm. You’ll find him running late, dressed in baggy clothes and iconic glasses.

Substance. We have that too. We may look like your standard fashion magazine but we’re so much more: tackling topics and issues most are afraid to talk about.

Magdalena SUB-EDITOR

FEATURES EDITOR

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A magazine that points it’s lens at the street, giving you our picks of what should definitely be in your future.

In our own way, disconnected from the mainstream - or the norm- we aren’t afraid to address what’s on our mind. And that is exactly what we do.

EDITOR

The one with all the words. Her passion for similes, metaphors and sentences is stronger than her love of all things 60s and 70s. You’ll find her jotting down great words she just read or trawling the shops in platform boots and kick flares.

What comes tomorrow is uncertain. Full of surprises. Unpredictable. And so are we. We are FUTURE.

Essentially, we are the kids your parents warned you to steer clear of. You are too, of course. The joker in a hand of cards. The bad apples.

Adam

Lindsey

EDITOR’S LETTER

Our very own Ger-talian is a travel addict. If there is somewhere she hasn’t been then it’s probably not worth even talking about. She’s the quietest of the bunch, usually day-dreaming of foreign lands and Justin Bieber's sexy face.

This issue we have it girls, dreamy designers, sassy skateboarders and even ugly food. (All will be explained.) We’ve been all over the globe finding these gems for you, without further ado. And giving too much away. Come step into the…FUTURE.

Adam

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What’s really happening with female skateboarding? Nobody is really talking about female skateboarding, but there is something we can do about it...


46%

54%

Male in outdoor sports

Female in outdoor sports

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by Marina Mariano

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rom Patti McGee to Leticia Bufoni, the female skateboarding panorama has always been full of talents. The same cannot be said regarding the visibility of the sport – while female skateboarders are making stride, they still cannot live up to their male counterparts. Most people, even skateboarding enthusiasts, think only about the male pros, much as male dominance takes centre stage in other fields, such

“Men pros who’ve got enough visibility should be the first to empower women in this sport” as fashion. Despite the fact that many female skateboarders are making their name worldwide, the sport is only recently making its first steps towards a long-time desired acceptance. In 2015, the United States had an estimated 6.44 million skateboarders, according to statistics portal Statista. But only 46% of women participate in outdoor sports, the data said. The already poor statistics available online do not clearly focus on women, who struggle to get a spotlight in such a hidden part of the industry. Now, women riders are eventually in the spotlight for the first time, but their voices are still struggling to be heard. With the support of the press and skateboarding associations, they could have the visibility that today only male riders can rely on. A first step was made in 2015. SLS (Street League - the most prestigious championship in this sport) had opened up this challenging indoor skating spot to women, which is yearly designed and reinvented for the championship. Among the participants were skaters such as Leticia Bufoni, Alexis Sablone, Lacey Baker and Vanessa Torres. They enjoyed the spotlight not only for the sport, but also for their efforts in fighting for gender equality.

Not to be forgotten, Mimi Knoop, winner of 5 X-Games medals, distinguished herself by founding two of the largest female-focused skateboarding brands: Hoopla and Alliance. For the 2015 X Games, ESPN agreed to give women the same prizes and coverage that was once the unique privilege only of the male contestants. Alex Carvalho, 18, a London rider from Brazil, has skated since she was 12 years old, thanks to her brother who always pushed and inspired her. “If it wasn’t for him I would have never started skating, especially after I moved here, I guess. Men pros who’ve got enough visibility should be the first to empower women in this sport,” she said. It is true that women, in particular outside of the US, where skateboarding is far less popular, are not really encouraged to consider skateboarding as a sport. That’s why Buzzfeed had the bright idea to make a short documentary titled: ‘Women who learn to skateboard for 30 days’. It pushed women towards skateboarding, helped them to overcome their fears, and also highlighted how many women still consider skateboarding a ‘tough sport’, sadly. “Many people think skateboarding is for tough people. And as a stereotype, men are. But, let’s be honest. Are all the male skateboarders out there tough?,” said Julia Hofer, 21, a skateboarder from Germany. “It shouldn't really matter, so go out and skate if you'd love to. You don’t need to demonstrate anything to anybody.” If you need inspiration, remember Patti McGee. Since skateboarding exploded in 1960’s California, Patti started experiencing new tricks on something that could better be defined a plank of wood with wheels, rather than a skate deck. Experimenting with the first handstands in 1965, she won many contests, becoming the first woman PRO in history.

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BANKSY: our favourite street artist Never ceases to amaze


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by Magdalena Gassebner

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nown only as ‘Banksy’ - the artist who installed his own painting at the Tate Museum. Banksy has become a worldwide phenomenon thanks to his witty and sarcastic art, which puts social and political issues to society’s attention. The UK graffiti artist, who stays unknown, engages art lovers, activists and fellow street artists around the world. According to Banksy himself his work is inspired by cannabis resin and daytime television. You can now enjoy an exhibition of original Banksy pieces at the Hang-Up Gallery in Dalston. 81 Stoke Newington Road London N16 8AD


“I was born a designer baby�

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As he puts the final touches to his next collection, Benjamin Alexander talks icons and inspiration


by Adam King

“Work your ass off, it’s always good to have a little dirt on your shoe.”

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t 21, Benjamin Alexander has what most designers can only dream of. He launched his eponymous label in 2015 and presented his collection after applying for i-D awards. As a result the pieces from his collection were commissioned for a David Bowie inspired shoot, which featured transgender model Gemma Cowling. Benjamin has created his own label, while finishing his MA in Fashion and Psychoanalysis. He knew he wanted to be a designer from a young age and calls himself a ‘designer baby’. His love for design and fashion grew stronger as he got older, wearing his “mom’s clothes and playing with Barbies as a kid.” Advice to young designers: “Work your ass off, it’s always good to have a little dirt on your shoe.” A perfectionist in his craft and always critical of his final pieces. “You can always do better when you know every minute detail about the work.” He says that finding and choosing the right fabric is the most exciting thing about designing.

With too many iconic designers to pick a favourite, he cites: “McQueen’s shows or the spectacle of his shows, iconic.” Taking an optimistic approach to his work ethic, saying: “There are no setbacks, always go forward.” When asked where he hopes to see his brand one day - “Everywhere. Or at the Met Ball.” Benjamin Alexander designs with one woman in mind. “One who commands every room she enters, who is unexpected and tastefully dramatic” And would love to see his designs on Daphne Guinness or Sarah Jessica Parker. His designs seek to empower women, naming his favourite thing in world as his “mom and the women in my life.” With inspiration also stemming from the women he sees on the street. “The most inspirational thing I’ve seen was in Paris. I saw a woman walking out in a full mink coat with a grey tracksuit and a bucket hat and a bag underarm.”Minding her own business buying bread from the bakery. It was iconic.”. The next step - a research trip to India and then full-scale production.




It’s over

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Millennials in the UK are breaking up with booze. S0 what exactly is their grounds for divorce?


by Lindsey Henderson

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ooze is going out of fashion, with the number of teetotalers in the UK reaching new heights. Mocktails have never been so popular and alcohol free bars are popping up around the country. According to the World Health Organisation, 21% of adults (one in five) are choosing to stay off the hard stuff, giving hangovers a stiff middle finger. It’s the students, the KFC workers, the part-timers and the Mr I-still-live-with-my-parents who’ve had the biggest change of heart. According to the Health and Social Care Information Centre (HSCIC) between 2005 and 2013 the number of non-drinkers increased by 40% in 16-24 year olds. So why are they choosing water over whisky? G.P., Dr. Mark Rawle, 30, says that we need to account for the ethnic shift. “Rates of drinking in young people are going down, but the proportion of young Muslims (who don’t drink) is also rising. Which might mean that young white people are still drinking loads.” “I consider myself to be uptight, I like to be in control,” says Aamir Khan, as he sips coca-cola through a straw. BThe 24-year-old Muslim has never touched a drop of alcohol in his life. “Obviously growing up it’s intimidating to go against your faith and family,” says Khan, “but now, I just don’t like the idea of throwing up on myself or losing my phone.” The UK has a strong reputation for binge drinking. On a night out keys are lost, memories wiped and dignity is drowned in a pool of purple vomit by the bed - drunk Daisy just couldn’t make it to the toilet. According to psychologist Natasha Clarke, among those who do drink, binge drinking is still a problem. “Trends suggest young adults tend to concentrate their drinking on one or two heavy drinking days a week, this risky drinking is accompanied by high levels of alcohol-related harm.”

“Trends suggest young adults tend to

concentrate their drinking on one or two heavy drinking days a week, this risky drinking is accompanied by high levels of alcohol-related harm”

hand, drunks are the most irritating fuckwits. Completely unpredictable when you’re on the beat.” Some feel that abstemious drinkers are looking down on them, and yeah, there is nothing worse than being lectured about drinking habits at a party - or anything that makes you want to swing a punch right into their smug, sober face. However, many teetotalers don’t take on this role. Blogger Olivia Purvis publicly declares her teetotal status on her YouTube channel ‘What Olivia Did’ but she doesn’t try to persuade her 34,000 subscribers to follow in her footsteps, she just advocates freedom of choice. “This isn’t a critique of drinking” she writes on her blog, “just enjoy your Saturday night cosmo or cola in hand.” “Sometimes people think I’m judging them for drinking which isn’t the case,” says Khan. “I personally find it weird coming across people that don’t drink, even in the young Muslim community it’s rare.” Alcohol is part of the culture in the UK, whether you drink it or not. In the UK our society is diverse, we have vegans, vegetarians, atheists, Muslims, Catholics, gays, transgender people and bi-sexuals. The rise in teetotalers reflects the freedom people have to make their own personal decisions, it’s another societal step forward. It’s moving towards an idealistic future where peer-pressure takes a back seat, where drinking or not drinking isn’t a big deal and expectations are out the window. Maybe one day we’ll get there. For now, we’ll just take it slowly. One drink at a time.

There is no doubt having a drink (or five) gives you some courage, especially in a bar or club when dancing and talking garbage to strangers is part of an evening out. For people like Khan, it can be difficult to enjoy a night out the way most 24-year-olds do. “I’m jealous of those who can use alcohol to excel in social situations.” When it comes to connecting with strangers, alcohol can be as useful as a sat nav when you’re lost. But, in the worst case scenarios, it can have some serious consequences. “High levels of binge drinking are linked to poor academic performance, blackouts and unplanned sexual activity,” says Clarke. Another danger is when alcohol is used to self-medicate, “It takes the edge off a tough day,” says 25-year-old Met police officer Lucy Williams. “Then on the other

21% Don’t

79 % Drink

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Wheiman Leong How to start a successful fashion design career  before graduation

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Wendy Leong is a name to watch in the fashion industry All thanks to her unusual lingerie... by Marina Mariano

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or some people, their career takes off due to a fantastic internship, a dash of nepotism, or a recommendation from a friend in the industry. But for Wheiman ‘Wendy’ Leong, it all began with a pair of “embarrassing panties”.Leong is one of the many emergent designers who decided to move to London in order to boost her career. She is not famous yet, but she boasts her CV with important names from the industry. Aged 21, Wendy, who grew up in Sweden, has already interned for Celine and Maison Margiela, and is getting ready for an internship with Marc Jacobs next summer. But despite her impressive credentials, she didn’t always think fashion was what she wanted to do.“I was in love with science but I wasn’t good

“When I a sewing mum, and started

should consider designing as a profession. When I turned 13, I got a sewing machine from my mum, and that was when I started the hard work.” Wendy moved to London in 2014, in order to study BA Fashion Design at Westminster University - according to CUG one of the 100 highest ranking universities in the UK. After spending all her life in Sweden, both her style and her human growth were subject to continuous transformation once she settled in the capital. “My style always changes, I don’t really like to describe it. I’m very into functionality and comfort, and these mean for me details and pattern-cutting. I’m striking for innovative ways of how to put our needs and behaviour into garments,” she said. The choice of London for her studies was mainly led by the need as a foreigner to get

turned 13, I got machine from my that was when I the hard work.”

at it. So it all really started during a handicraft class, when I created a pair of embarrassing panties,” she says, laughing. “My teacher told me how amazing they were and that I

challenged by the industry in a prominent fashion capital. The worldwide fame of London’s fashion schools was another reason that drew Wendy to the UK.



“Being in the industry is a lot of hard work when it comes to creating a collection or collections, and the growing vanity among the industry makes it even worse.” Her former flatmate Marcella Massidda, 21, describes her as the “most hardworking person” she has ever known. “When she was interning last year, she would disappear for hours in her room, where she prepared a portfolio for days and nights. One day she also forgot to eat,” she adds laughing.

“After I got into Celine, I understood that having relevant names of the Industry on your CV can open so many doors” 34

Before striking out into the real world of fashion, Wendy had unrealistic ideas about the industry. “At the was all fabulous can now

beginning I thought fashion about the glamorous and life,” she explains, but she name it as another reality.

“Being in the industry is a lot of hard work when it comes to creating a collection or collections, and the growing vanity among the industry makes it even worse.” Fashion has changed since the time when designers could just think about it as a mean of self-expression. In a digitally connected world like ours, the fashion industry has had to reshape its appearance. The fear is that this whole system could forget its roots just to revolve around money. Many relevant names from the international fashion panorama got a degree in London schools. John Galliano graduated from Central Saint Martin, while Vivienne Westwood studied at Westminster. To get to that level you have to challenge yourself and get into the competitive world of fashion, no matter what. Obviously, skills and knowledge are at the basis of a good career start, but for an undergraduate student this may not be enough. Visibility and effort are necessary to get the industry to know you. Wendy

describe herself as “lucky enough” to have interned at Cèline, providing her with skills and visibility able to compete within the industry.“ “At the beginning I wasn’t really confident about my working experience. I was a nurse in Sweden and even if I knew I was a hard worker, I had no real fashion experience I could rely on. But after I got into Celine, I understood that having relevant names of the Industry on your CV can open so many doors,” she explains.

Wendy has been, in fact, hired by Maison Margiela in Paris, where she is completing her “sandwich” year as a design intern. She has the opportunity to work close to John Galliano, and to deal learn from heavy duties and stress on a daily basis. “Life here is not that different from London. I haven’t got the stress of the studies, but when I finish working I just go back to my studio flat, fall asleep, and wake up again ready for another day at the office,” she says.

“I think some brands forget about our behaviour today, especially in a commuting city. But it can all be a contradiction since many fashion houses now are simplifying their products and losing their creativity […] Fashion moves so fast and people want to update their wardrobe as soon as possible.” Time has passed since Wendy sewed her first pair of panties, learning better and better how to compete with this fast-paced industry. After London and Paris, Wendy is ready to settle in New York for another interning experience, this time with Marc Jacobs: “The more stylistic views you get from your experiences, the better. So I don’t want to stop,” she concludes.

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RIYA HOLLINGS 36

Nudity, Creativity and Fashion, The Recipe For The New IT Girl


by Philippa Branton

“I always wanted to get into fashion and image making since I was really young, constantly seeing things that influenced me in day to day life and magazines was really interesting for me”

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ave you ever wondered what it takes to be the new IT girl? And no, that isn’t an acronym for information technology, that tedious and monotonous lesson you used to take at school. IT stands for the girl of the season, the girl that everybody is talking about and who is taking the fashion industry by storm. Riya Hollings, 28, originally from Bristol, graduated from Leeds Metropolitan University in 2010 with a first-class honors degree in Fashion Design, then moved to London to further her career in the arts. After deciding to put her love for design on hold, Hollings chose to explore every element of the editorial world, assisting the likes i-D magazine and Kimi O’Neil of LOVE to pursue a career in photography, styling and creative direction. Riya’s strong eye for styling and creative direction along with her photography skills has marked her as one of the most established artists in London. Her ability and versatility to switch from fashion editorial to music, film and commercial projects has meant Riya has been successful in many aspects of the industries she works within.

“I always wanted to get into fashion and image making since I was really young, constantly seeing things that influenced me in day to day life and magazines was really interesting for me,” said Riya. “The thought that I could use my influences and combine them in a way that I had interpreted was incredible.” Alongside artists like Juergen Teller, Riya says everything that happens in her life is a constant inspiration, from her friends who all immerse themselves within the arts, to the discover page on Instagram. In today’s society it is difficult to break out in any industry without a strong social media following to back you. Insta-likes are where personal branding reigns. In the age of Instagram you have everything you need now at the scroll of a touch-screen. Today’s youth face a staggering range of choices, day in day out. But one thing Riya does not have in common with other stylists, photographers or fashion creatives is her decision to lead her life free from the restraints of preconceived notions.



“I think there is so much repression of the female form and it is so glorious and powerful that as an artist you are able to show this through art, I just think nothing else comes close to it”

Her attitudes towards sexuality and female power are diversified, which shows in everything from her editorial work to her Instagram feed. Instead, it features self-portraits with her messy blond hair and statement red lipstick alongside her freelance photography work, with her love for ‘80s and ‘90s fashion at the forefront . Riya shows more skin than your average Instragram user, and she takes Free the Nipple, a global campaign focusing on the equality, empowerment and freedom of all human beings to a new level, by bringing together women who share the same views on female empowerment.

Riya’s photography indulges in the kind of images you wouldn’t want to show your parents over the dinner table, such as her most recent works ‘Meat’, a series of images with a topless model holding a real pig’s heart. ‘Frutti De Mare’ shows instead a pink-haired, halfnaked model wearing stockings and suspenders in an oriental setting. “I think there is so much repression of the female form and it is so glorious and powerful that as an artist you are able to show this through art, I just think nothing else comes close to it.”


If it’s ugly, eat it! 45

Wonky fruit and veg are the new supermarket staple. Future explores the new food revolution


by Magdalena Gassebner

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gly food. It’s actually much less disturbing than it sounds. It used to be that apples, tomatoes and oranges wouldn’t make it anywhere near thesupermarket shelves if they weren’t as juicy and round as J.Lo’s derrière . It is safe to say thatfruit and vegetables suffered about the same as plus size models in Victoria Beckham’s showroom. But times are changing. Big supermarket chains like ASDA, Lidl, Tesco and Co-op haveadapted to the wonky veg revolution and added ugly veg boxes to their range with the hope to reduce the currently very high food waste. At the moment it is believed that one third of the world’s food is going to waste due to aesthetical standards in the food industry. “Beauty is always in the eye of the beholder. I love to look at pretty veg and fruit, but for cooking purposes it doesn’t matter how they look,” says Suzanne DeBrango, 54, food blogger for and wonky veg supporter.

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Organic food pathed the way for the wonky veg revolution. The trend of buying organic produce experienced a huge breakthrough in the past decade, with people willing to pay more for products containing no pesticides or genetically modified organisms. Consumers got used to not perfectly shaped fruit and veg in the supermarket aisles and Alex Lewis, 29, says that the population is ready for ugly food. “I am a fan of organic as well as ugly food, because it is my way of contributing to a sustainable society,” he says. The father of two explains that he is concerned about the high food waste and the current consumerism of our society. “The world’s population is growing each year and there are people who are starving. The standards of the western world have to change dramatically.” Jamie Oliver discovered in his TV series ‘Jamie & Jimmy's Friday Night Feast’ earlier this year, that about ten tonnes of wonky veg are thrown in the bin just because they are too ‘ugly’ to sell. The celebrity TV chef describes it as just the ‘tip of the iceberg’, with statistics showing that a jaw-dropping 20-40% of fruit and veg in the UK end up as animal food or waste on landfills.

Food is the latest social currency, Waitrose says, with one in five Britons posting their food on social media platforms. Wonky veg supporters have joined in on the fun. They’ve launched Facebook groups and Instagram accounts to inspire people with beautiful imagery and recipes to cook, using the hashtag #uglyfood. And why not? Crooked carrots, wonky cucumbers and curved peppers are just as tasty as their prettier-looking counterparts. “If there were a blind taste test I doubt anyone could tell, which is ugly or perfect,” says DeBrango. The food enthusiast uses misshapen food for her blog ‘apuginthekitchen’ all the time, because she says it is an ingredient that goes into a finished product and beauty is therefore irrelevant. ASDA sells their wonky veg boxes for £3.50 and they contain about £5 worth of food. The supermarket giant claims that one box allows a family of four to eat healthily for a whole week. “The wonky veg boxes sell out very quickly and the store is unable to offer a steady supply at the moment,” says ASDA employee Steve Barrow, 33. The boxes are proving a great success with consumers, with an ASDA consumer research study suggesting that 65% of customers are open-minded about buying wonky fruit and veg, while 75% are willing to accept less attractive food if it is sold at a cheaper price. Currently, ASDA sells the boxes in 350 of its 525 stores around the country. The restaurant scene has become part of the wonky veg revolution as well. London is now home to the very first zero waste restaurant. ‘Tiny Leaf’ located at Mercato Metropolitano in Borough, uses misshapen fruit and vegetables to create mouth-watering dishes. “Zero waste is an aspiration and a philosophy. We want to create conversation about how wasteful we are being and exploring ways to stop that across the board,” Alice Gilsenan, co-founder of Tiny Leaf, tells the Evening Standard. Everybody should remember that it’s not all about the looks - the inner values count. As food blogger Suzanne puts it: “I love a misshapen carrot or potato or an apple that is not perfectly symmetrical - they have character!”

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It’s 2016 - Fitting in is all about standing out

Silence of the Lambs

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Lucas Nord 52

The hottest Swedish export since ABBA


by Magdalena Gassebner

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f you thought all Swedish musicians were blond and tall, with names like Bjorn and Benny, think again. Lucas Hans Goeran Nordqvist, better known as Lucas Nord, is the latest Swedish export since Absolut Vodka and Ikea, and he’s taking the world by storm. On a recent rainy Wednesday evening at the Old Blue Last - the Shoreditch hotspot for up and coming artists – Nord is showing off his electronic skills, playing to a packed audience of music fanatics and a few lost Shoreditch hipsters. The venue is intimate and it seems like an evening amongst music loving friends. The venue invites up and coming artists on a regular basis and offers their customers great life music, while enjoying a chilly pint of lager. The concept is easy: artists get to put their name out there and customers get free entertainment. Nobody really loses. Like the name suggests, Lucas Nord is from up North - Sweden to be precise. The 24-year-old singer and songwriter, who lives in Stockholm, has had a number one hit on Billboard’s Dance Club Songs Chart in January. He recorded the track, ‘Run on Love’, with nobody less than Tove Lo, which catapulted him to his first US chart showpiece. He is an electronic musician, DJ and record producer and describes his music as electronic, dancey, soulful pop. Nord grew up in a family of musicians. His mum, his uncle and his granddad were all into music. He says that music came very natural to him and that’s all he’s been doing his whole life. He jokingly says that he didn’t really have another choice. The singer doesn’t suffer from stage fright, but the most challenging factor about performing on stage for him is remembering the lyrics. “The second verse is always a struggle for me. It’s so many words to remember, fuck. Maybe it’s just the excitement,” says Nord. The crowd was electrified and dancing to the songs. “His soulful voice and honesty give the songs so much power and emotions,” says Tatiana Niedermayr, 23, who saw Lucas Nord the first time at the Old Blue Last. “I feel like I can really connect with what he’s singing,” she says.

His fourth album ‘Company’ came out earlier this year and is available on iTunes. The musician is working on a new album, which is coming out after summer next year. “The release date has not been confirmed yet, but I can’t wait to come out and play as many shows as possible and do this all over again,” he says. Lucas Nord made a lasting impression with songs like ‘Don’t need your love’, ‘Faking’ and ‘Off my mind’ and was sure to gain some more fans during the event. “The songs are aboutone girl really. I liked her more than she liked me. So I went and wrote songs about it,” says Nord. Kevin Woods, 25, another attendee of the event, says: “I didn’t know Lucas Nord before tonight, but I really enjoyed it. It was such an intimate show and we got very close to the stage. He’s got a great voice and his songs are very catchy.” The young Swede has just been to Denmark and Finland and even crossed the pond to Los Angeles and New York. He says that he is tired after so much touring, but he’s not complaining about it, because he loves every single bit of it. He adds that it’s ‘fucking awesome’ and ‘unreal’ that people like what he is producing in his small Stockholm apartment. Nord is very grateful for what he has achieved so far. He is very down to earth and 100% sure that he does not want to become the next Justin Bieber. “I’m not doing this to be famous. I just want to play bigger stages and better slot times at festivals and maybe, if I’m lucky, get some hits along the way.” So make sure you keep an eye on Lucas Nord, the talent from Sweden with the recognisable voice. He is an up and coming artist and we are sure to hear more from him in the near future. Follow him on Instagram (@lucasnord) and Facebook (Lucas Nord). His music can be downloaded on iTunes and is available on Spotify as well.


“I’m not doing this to be famous. I just want to play bigger stages and better slot times at festivals and maybe, if I’m lucky, get some hits along the way”


Art Matters 58

After the scare that the Art History A-Level may have been axed by the Conservative government, FUTURE spoke to aspiring artist, SLART, about another possible defeat in the battle to prove that art is still important

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by Philippa Branton

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ne of the pleasures of art in London is that you aren’t reduced to spending your time in an environmentally controlled room, for hours on end, with no natural light. Although the art gallery scene is one of those many want to immerse themselves in, art is now not only for the bare white walls of an open space, but everywhere – amongst people, parties and the institutions who roll out their best shows. Will Nicholson, 21, named himself and his artwork SLART after finding humor in the fictional character, Slartibartfast, who won an award for designing the country Norway and encapsulated SLART’s love for Scandinavian artwork. SLART studies Illustration and Visual Media at London College of Communication. He hopes to sell his abstract, abnormal and inhuman like portraits to anybody willing to buy. Each piece of his work showcases a series of line drawings with faces that look more like a creature from middle earth rather than your everyday person. With an inability to draw in a traditional fashion, and a need to express, SLART finds his influence

from the people around him. And not so much the creatives he works with, but more general members of the public, or the certain things that general groups represent. He is interested in creating emotive work that makes the viewing look introspectively, enabling the viewers to see a part of themselves in his creations. “This is especially the case with the portraits that I have made in the last year, with them having no reference to real people,” he said. “I plan them with each pen mark, in such a fashion that it almost creates some sort of juxtaposition of facial features that may even conflict the viewer’s perception of the human face.” SLART considered mark making, the practice of creating different designs and textures, as a subject only fairly recently. Artist David Shingley was a big factor in this change. “I saw that someone could convey so much with what appeared at the time to be little drawing ability,” he said. “This initially started what would be the direction of my life for the foreseeable future.”


“I plan them with each pen mark, in such a fashion that it almost creates some sort of juxtaposition of facial features that may even conflict the viewers’ perception of the human face.”

This new direction enabled him to sink into other methods of working, influenced by artists such as Ray Johnson and his encouraging methods of moving through mediums. Rueben Selby, 37, Head Coordinator of Nicolson’s most recent exhibition, ‘The Gathering’ and Creative Director and Designer, describes his work as interesting and innovative. “His style is very unique, abstract and minimalistic. It plays on physical form and allows the viewer to create their own meaning behind the piece.”The importance of art history to young creatives is detrimental to their progress and development, SLART said: “I’m shocked they were even considering dropping the Art History A-Level but I think it may challenge institutions and people to get fired up about the arts and puts pressure back on them to support it fully again. I think it could be a good thing.” Leeds University Art History graduate, Alice Cawley, 24, said: “The possible scrapping of Art History from the A-Level syllabus is a deft blow to a subject that is so valuable, and yet so undervalued. It is far more than just

holly for the elite public school kid, as it is perceived to be, Art History ensures that art is accessible to all.” “How can we expect future generations, and artists like Will to break the mould and forge new pathways of creativity? Would the scrapping of the Art History A-Level create new elitism within the Art world?,” she asked. Many artists use Art History as a way to influence their art, SLART especially, but less from an aesthetic standpoint and more from philosophies on art. SLART said: “It’s very interesting looking back and seeing the reasons for people making work, compared to now.” The Art History A-Level has been saved at the last minute. Exam board Pearson has confirmed plans to develop a new history of art A-level for teaching from next September. October's decision by the AQA board to drop the subject provoked an outcry, SLART hopes the battle to save the A-level will boost the subject's popularity: “It’s not over yet!”


Alexa Chung x M&S: Unconventional Partners in Crime

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The second “Archive by Alexa� collection is now available in M&S. Here is how the iconic store is enticing new shoppers...


by Lindsey Henderson

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on them. Chung can pull off anything and her velvet midi dress, tights and red shoes is an adorable combination, it’s the kinda thing a 6-year-old might wear to a tea party.

The Marble Arch flagship hosted the second launch of the ‘Archive’ collection by supermodel and TV presenter Alexa Chung, who was present at the launch.

The line concentrates on British Heritage, looking back at the M&S archives and reviving iconic pieces. At first glance the metallic and patent materials are instantly youthful and exactly what unripe adults are looking for. “It’s an exciting time for M&S as they successfully reach out to millennials through celebrity endorsement,” says Cramp.

umping tunes, security guards and a queue of excited teenage girls is the kind of atmosphere you can expect at a concert or music gig. But no, this wasn’t the coolest place in town, it was M&S on a rainy Thursday evening in November.

The 33-year-old is infamous for her preppy style, she’s been crowned Style Icon three times at the British Fashion Awards, launched an app, written a book and had a Mulberry bag named after her. It seems the girl can pretty much do anything - which is why she has so many adoring fans. The usual M&S customers hoping for a quiet evening searching for the perfect corduroy trousers and warmest turtleneck looked both bemused and unhappy about the invasion of their store by youths and loud music. “So what's all this about?” asked a particularly bothered customer. To say the store had been transformed would be a bit dramatic but the gold fringing decorating the walls was very festive, matching the altar of plastic glasses filled with Champagne and cream-coloured macaroons (free for Sparks card holders). The first collection in April was a hit, especially the Harry blouse: A pink, high-necked, long-sleeved frilly thing. Bloggers were the first to swoop this up, splashing it across social media until it was sold out online and instore. “The winter collection personally isn't as favourable as the previous one,” said Emily Cramp, a 21-yearold student from London College of Fashion. Cramp was hoping to catch a glimpse of her style idol Chung for the second time (she’s also been to the one in April). “The launch is more glitzy and glamorous this time which suits the collection.” Chung is relaxed throughout the evening, spending most of her time behind the DJ booth with her friend and DJ, Tennessee Thomas. They are both sporting the Archive collection and it looks good

The crowd are too distracted by Chung to be interested in shopping for the clothes, it doesn’t take long for one of them to pluck up the courage to ask for a selfie with the star, which provokes a knock-on selfie effect. “I didn’t know that came in navy,” Chung says, while posing for a photo. The distraction of her own collection begs the question, how much of the Archive by Alexa, really was, well, by Alexa? M&S is not the first high street store to use celebrity endorsement as an incentive for customers to shop with them. “Alexa Chung collaborating with M&S isn't your most obvious choice, it makes customers more intrigued to view and potentially buy the collection,” says Michelle Conroy, a visual merchandiser for high street stores. Customers can buy into a new ideal of an already loved high street brand says Conroy. “I'm 23 and I wouldn't generally shop at M&S but, liking Alexa Chung’s style drew me to shop in M&S initially for the Archive collection, then I browsed more of the store.” It’s no secret that sales have declined in recent years for M&S, it’s been covered repeatedly in the media and events like this reveal their attempt to beg, borrow and steal new customers. “Other stores like Topshop use a style icon who you would typically link to their store,” says Conroy. It’s a dangerous balancing act across a tightrope for M&S if they don’t want to piss off their loyal shoppers. Only time will tell if they make it to the other side. Hopefully the pumping tunes won’t cause too much of a distraction.


The asylum and beyond

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An exhibition detailing how society today has progressed in attitudes towards mental health 183 Euston Road is the home of the Wellcome Collection.


“The pieces provided were an eclectic mix, including obscure depictions of faceless humans, the display emitted an aura of disquietude which served to reinforce a deeper meaning to the exhibit” by Adam King

London MA student, Darryl Campbell, 27, noted although: “The pieces provided were he free destination for the incurably an eclectic mix, including obscure depictions curious. For its autumn exhibition, the of faceless humans, the display emitted an Collection takes on the much talked about aura of disquietude which served to reinforce issue of mental health, in Bedlam: the asylum a deeper meaning to the exhibit.” and beyond. Through curated installations from artists, historical documents, medical Through metaphors, visitors are able to records, film and art, the exhibition gives imagine the extensiveness of mental health. an insight into the progression of attitudes Bethlem Royal Hospital, or ‘Bedlam’ as it’s towards mental health. Eva Kotátková’s typically referred to makes the exhibition and installation, the dimly lit ‘Asylum’ engulfs installations flow cohesively. It is Europe’s first visitors in a sombre silence yet still manages and oldest mental institution to treat mental to fill the room with an uneasy tension. illness and is still giving treatment today.

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Through testimonies and illustrations from patients of Bothnice Psychiatric Hospital in Prague an insight to their psyche is given. Anecdotes, being their only mode of communication, express how on edge asylum patients felt, crippled by phobias. How they lock said phobias in the cellar of their heads. Revealing how inner visions were monsters. Their heads being invaded castles. How their ideas exceed acceptable limits. How fantasy is a nice thing, but only in certain doses. These inner thoughts inevitably leading to the label of delusion being placed upon them. German designer, Tim Klasener, 21, said: “I liked that you got a good insight of how people with mental disorders see the world and themselves. It was interesting and very educating.”‘Asylum’ - very chaotic and juxtaposed, which takes an archaeological approach in creating an uneasy and tense atmosphere.

The history of the building is documented, as well as the demise of mental asylums. Accompanied by books and records dating back until the 13th century. Scandalous stories of conditions being exposed and the ill-treatment of patients leading us to where we are today. Explained is society as we know it, how it has gone to using the term mental hospitals, instead of lunatic asylums and madhouses. Campbell added: “Yes, attitudes and practices towards sufferers of mental health problems have improved over time, but there is still some way to go.”Portraits from Henry Hering depicting patients before and after their time in these institutions add shock factor, as well as art from artist Richard Dadd. The portraits evoking sympathy due to drastic changes in physical features.

Essentially from being confined and tortured. Portraits displayed beside electroshock The atmosphere is helped by spiked bracelets and straitjackets, give insight sculptures and caged windows. A vase into the treatment patients received. With with hands trying to escape, taking centre, institutions eventually running out of funding, perfectly expresses how trapped patients leaving patients confined for life. felt within these institutional constraints.


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Javier Tellez’s movie installation, ‘Caligari and the Sleepwalker’ raises the question of what exactly normality is. The main subject of the movie referring to himself as ‘extraterrestrial’. Tellez’s black and white installation breaks the exhibition off from its dark eerily mood and focuses on progression. How we are longer in those days or mindset. A chess sculpture by Tellez is also featured, each chess-piece being a mental illness. With a sense of sadness, he metaphorically tells how life goes on and there will always be obstacles to overcome.‘Bedlam’ moves onto the advancement of psychiatric help and pharmaceuticals. Feelings of exactly how patients at the time felt are captured at each point, inviting guests to relive it in

their imagination and in the atmosphere. The Hearing Voices Cafe, where those who hear voices are invited to sit, gives a sense of empowerment, showcasing how accepting we have become towards mental health. The space slowly becomes louder with conversation, progression is captured perfectly as even visitors feel less restricted to be silent. In comparison to the space’s first dimly lit room, the final installation is full of colour and hope. It features Hannah Hull’s Madlove ‘A Designer Asylum’ - a collaborative piece drawing experiences from sufferers of mental health issues who have created their own utopia.

Klasener, enjoyed how the collection “presented a serious topic with a funny film and colourful part at the end.” T alking about our progression and how far we have to go he says: “Today it is much more socially accepted as an illness and treated better than a few decades ago. People are better educated about mental health and there will be much more progress, because we get to know so much more about how the brain functions.” Asked at the end to fill out a form, for personal keeping, the exhibition becomes interactive asking visitors their opinions and views. Enquiring how you

personally would deal with the issue and how you see it progressing further. Elissavet Ntoulia, a Visitor Experience Assistant at the Collection, said: “The exhibition has been well attended, receiving a steady flow of visitors as they believe it is a very important issue that should be addressed more.” The exhibition, which received mixed reviews, has proven to be a success in terms of educating visitors on a much discussed topic. Ntoulia said: “The events programme accompanying the exhibition is also very popular and all events have been fully booked.”The Wellcome Collection’s current exhibition runs through until January 2017 and explores the broad scope of mental health.


Guess who’s back Infamous London nightclub Fabric wins appeal against closure

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by Adam King

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abric, the London megaclub, is set to reopen, after having its license revoked by Islington Council following the drug related deaths of two teenagers last year. After the ‘SaveFabric’ campaign and long talks, the nightclub is set to open again in the new year with strict rules in order to prevent a repeat of the horrible incidents of last year. Under 19s will now no longer be permitted entry into the club and CCTV will be operating throughout. Any of those caught with illegal substances in the club will be imposed with a life long ban.Since the closure, there have been numerous campaigns and protests to save the club. These have definitely been a factor in the decision,

with the closure being referred to as the end of London’s nightlife scene. Sadiq Khan, who on becoming Mayor of London said he would fight for the nightlife of London, has helped in the battle. Young clubbers are ecstatic about the decision. Elle Binns, 20, expressed excitement: “I’m so happy this has been overruled, I’ve never gotten the chance to visit the club and have heard so many good stories about it. I think that the deaths have been publicised a lot, but it is unfair especially because the released police reports have been lacking a lot of information. The blame can’t be placed just on Fabric.” The super club will reopen in the new year under strict surveillance and be monitored closely by the Metropolitan Police. Cheers to that.


Creepyyeha and her babydolls 76

Exploring the recent obsession with kinky underwear and the designer who made it happen

by Lindsey Henderson

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hinese-American designer Yeha Leung is the brains and hands behind Creepyyeha, a custom-made lingerie brand. Its craftsmanship is at its best with the combination of Ravish Me bras, Tahliah chokers and Lillipore garters being cynical, sexy and stylish in equal measures. A cult following of over 200,00 whom she nicknames ‘Babydolls’ is exposed via Instagram, a platform the designer uses on a personal level despite the ever-increasing numbers. If it’s not Leung modelling, it’s one of her friends with the photo captions acting as sick notes, deliberations, reflections and monologues. The custom-made lingerie is beautiful in the most daring of ways. It could take up to seven weeks to reach a Babydoll’s door, with the made to measure entourage of gold D-rings, soft tulle, bows and metal hearts making it worth the anticipated wait. It’s underwear to be seen. There couldn’t be a sassier circle of celebrity ambassadors with FKA Twigs, Azealia Banks and Rihanna all being restrained by the Creepyyeha leather. These are the pop princesses demystifying the world of sex and fetish, unashamedly putting themselves and their sexuality on display. Her Creepyyeha Babydolls blog is filled with Blair Witch style videos: men in balaclavas, white noise, knives and girls smashing china with hammers. Even the innocent colours of the underwear in white and lavender can’t hide the fetish themes here. A close up of suspenders attaching to tights and

petals being pulled from a rose reveal what the ‘creepy’ in Creepyyeha is really all about, but with the subtle hints of BDSM. Are we opening up Pandora's box here and adding to the already mounting pressure on the everyday female? Sex sells. We know all this. It’s drilled into us everyday with navels, buttocks and waistlines being used to promote everything from tea bags to Tupperware. Is it scenes like this that create unrealistic expectations? Expectations to shave and trim, dress up and dress down to attract the dominant sex or feel comfortable in our own skin. As ever with this business we call fashion, things can be and will be interpreted by each and every one of us differently. Leung’s designs are simultaneously a fashion statement, a costume, a piece of art and a prop to fulfill an utmost Babydoll fantasy. The freedom of expression is honourable, here is a designer doing her own thing and following her own path. A path we are invited to see with our very own square eyes and overworked right thumb. As a celebration of fashion, women, sex, love, desire and seduction, it’s powerful. Just like that purple mohair jumper in your best mate’s wardrobe - it might not be to everyone's taste; however, it’s certainly attracting attention. With the freedom of expression being something to honour and the contrasting world of brutality and beauty the name is on people’s lips: Creepyyeha, Creepyyeha, don’t stop, don’t…. Stop.


Benjamin Alexander


Benjamin Alexander


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