INFUSION
THE FULBRIGHT KOREA
VOL 7, ISSUE 2
THE FULBRIGHT KOREA INFUSION
volume 7, issue 2
spring 2014
staff Clara Kang. Watercolor. May 2014 On April 16, 2014, the Sewol ferry capsized off the southwestern coast of Korea en route from Incheon to Jeju Island. 476 people were on board, including more than 300 students from Danwon High School in Ansan. Only 172 people were rescued. The yellow ribbon became a symbol of mourning for the victims, as well as a symbol of hope that the missing passengers would be found alive. As the nation mourns, the yellow ribbon can be seen everywhere from memorials to social media, alongside the messages “Pray for South Korea” and “하 나의 작은 움직임이 큰 기적을” — “One small movement, big miracles.”
PUBLISHING ADVISOR Jai Ok Shim
ASSISTANT DESIGN EDITOR Meredith Howard
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Katelyn Hemmeke
PHOTO EDITORS Andrew Cheng Neal Singleton
MANAGING EDITORS Kristen Bialik Jennifer Law DESIGN EDITOR Ashley Park
WEB MANAGER Rachel Lim MONITORS Teresa Baik Phung Nguyen
STAFF EDITORS Mimi Cagaitan Sarah Chen Connor Dearing Clara Kang John Karayannopoulos Hector Ramos-Flores Josephine Reece Jonathan Rice Christina Socci Sophia Zhang COVER PHOTO Gangneung. Eric Horvath. Gangneung
CONTENTS 01 LETTERS JAI OK SHIM & AMBASSADOR KIM
33 SEOUL OLYMPICS HELEN LI
02 FOREWORD KATELYN HEMMEKE
40 SPIT GABRIELLE NYGAARD
04 THE INCIDENT JASON GILMORE
42 ODE TO SUBURBAN KOREA JOSEPHINE REECE
08 SOCIAL MEDIA AND THE ETA IN KOREA JONATHAN RICE
44 “SUMMER” SOPHIA ZHANG
14 MUTING MY MOTHER TONGUE HANA LEE
49 4.3 MARISSA LYNN
20 SEOUL ON TWO WHEELS CONNOR DEARING
54 THE LOTUS FLOWER BLOOMS IN MUD GINGER WHITESELL
24 BARE-LY CULTURED CAMERON DEMETRE
59 MY KOREAN MUSICAL JENNA GIBSON
28 THE MIGRANTS’ ARIRANG ANDREW CHENG
63 HERE IN OHIO YOON-CHAN KIM
Graffiti Wedding. Sara Caudill. Kota Kina Balu, Sabah, Malaysia
Letter
Letter from the
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
Dear Readers,
The Fulbright Korea program, which sent two
from the
AMBASSADOR Dear Readers,
As Korea and the U.S. build upon 60 years
It is with great pleasure and pride that I pres-
Americans to Korea in 1961, now boasts a com-
Congratulations to Fulbright Korea on Vol-
of partnership and shared prosperity, I’d like to
ent Infusion magazine, Volume 7, Issue 2. As with
munity of over 5,000 active grantees and alumni,
ume 7, Issue 2 of Infusion magazine. The articles
acknowledge all of your hard work in making
every volume, this could not have happened with-
all of whom have influenced this country and
featured in this year’s publication demonstrate the
Fulbright Korea a true model of diplomacy. You
out the contributions of our esteemed grantees
commission. Accomplishments and meaningful
passion and commitment that has made Fulbright
should feel extremely proud to know that the lega-
and alumni. I would like to thank you all for the
exchange have come through educational, cultural
Korea the vibrant and active organization it is to-
cy you are creating now will be the source of even
time and effort you have put into working for the
and personal avenues. Regardless of our grantees’
day. Your energy, drive and desire to connect with
closer ties between our two countries for many
success of Infusion magazine this year.
methods or intentions, their legacies as Fulbright-
schools and communities across the country ex-
years to come.
ers can be found in the following photographs
tend beyond mere linguistic and cultural exchang-
and stories.
es to penetrate to the heart of the mutual respect
Over the years, I have seen Infusion grow in profound and exciting ways in both its content and influence. With each volume and issue, the magazine manages to more accurately and thor-
Sincerely,
and friendship that unite our two nations. Sincerely,
As just one example, this year the Fulbright
oughly reflect the diverse and unique aspects that
English Teaching Assistantship (ETA) program
comprise the Fulbright Korea experience. As a
includes 120 grantees, with 45 ETA grantees in-
Sung Kim
union of visual and literary excellence, Infusion
volved with the North Korean Defector Program
U.S. Ambassador to the Republic of Korea
magazine represents the exceptional array of ex-
Jai Ok Shim
in centers nationwide. The ETA program has also
periences, perspectives and lives that make Ful-
Executive Director
successfully created unique opportunities like the
bright Korea what it is.
Korean-American Educational Commission
Youth Diplomacy and Activism Conference that
For over 50 years, the Fulbright Korea network has been growing at an exceptional pace.
draws students from all over Korea to engage in diplomacy and community activism.
01
Foreword
Katelyn Hemmeke, Editor-in-Chief
A Seoul Cafe. Helen Li. Seoul homesickness, loneliness, struggles to adapt to a
finnicky host sibling, navigating hygiene standards
new culture and a new home.
or literally baring all in front of your students. But
As Jon Rice mentions in his piece about “mani-
the point is that we do not simply face these trials;
cured” lives, Fulbright director Mrs. Jai Ok Shim
we confront them. We acknowledge that we are not
tells us, “Don’t compare.” She advises us against
fine, and we seek solace in music, exercise, nature, religion or relationships.
“I’m fine, thank you, and you?”
It takes even more strength to take moments of
comparing our experiences, lest we feel jealous
Fulbright grantees have probably heard this
struggle and turn them into moments of growth
or short-changed. But “don’t compare” need not
My students may compulsively rattle off the
line more times than they care to count. When I
— to not only endure tough times, but to learn
equate to “don’t share” — we can still listen to each
line “I’m fine, thank you, and you?” but when I
ask my students “How are you?” more often than
from them.
other in challenging moments and offer support.
press them for different answers, they are wonder-
not they automatically chirp, “I’m fine, thank you,
For this year’s second issue of Infusion, we
Ginger Whitesell grapples with the grief of
fully frank: “Teacher, I am sad.” “Teacher, so much
and you?” It’s a simple answer to a simple ques-
sought to bring out the heart of our mission: high-
losing loved ones an ocean away. Hana Lee faces
stress, so tired.” Even in a foreign language, they
tion — one so ubiquitous that it even has its own
lighting the diverse experiences of Fulbright grant-
a daunting request that forces her to examine the
are not afraid to share their worries: “Teacher, I
song1 — and it is all too easy to drop that line and
ees. The Fulbright experience certainly includes
connection between racial identity and language.
have five tests next week. I went to sleep at 4 a.m.”
move on.
joyful moments with students and homestay fami-
Marissa Lynn discovers a dark history behind her
“Teacher, the Sewol accident — those students,
But what if you are not fine? What if you are
lies, moments of cultural exchange with colleagues
new home, where sunny beaches are haunted by
our same age.” They are not easy answers to say
stressed, grieving or simply unhappy? It takes cour-
and breakthroughs in academic research. But it
the past. Our experiences are trying. Even the
or hear, but they are honest. We hope you find the
age and honesty to admit that you are not fine.
also includes some things that aren’t so sparkly:
seemingly mundane moments of homestay life and
same honesty within these pages.
1. “Fine Thank You and You?” by Korean indie band 10cm
teaching can be taxing, whether it’s dealing with a
Please enjoy Volume 7, Issue 2 of Infusion.
03
THE
INCIDENT Jason Gilmore
or Korean that could settle him down when he
a prisoner on the way to the gallows. He looked
decided to pitch one of his screaming fits, noth-
back at Grandmother and then up at me.
It happened on Saturday, October 13, at 11:35 a.m.
the rest. “Sept. 1993 – First day of school ” was writ-
ing that could stop the jolt of annoyance I felt
“Hi?” he asked.
Looking back, there were signs. First, the red
ten on the back.
at breakfast when he pulled a drool-soaked hand
“Hi,” I answered.
from his mouth and reached into my cereal.
I lifted him onto my shoulders, where he
blush of 2-year-old Eun Hyeok’s cheeks as he
Turning it over, the first thing I saw was a
strained, followed by the deft shift of hand into
bright smile. Attached to that smile was a little girl
Day after day, I fought to endure the mael-
wound his hands through my hair and tugged this
diaper. Only then did a sudden, incontrovertible
with platinum hair, a checkered button-up shirt
strom of infantile chaos that raged around me.
way and that, trying to steer me. I felt a twinge of
sense of wrongness settle in my stomach. I turned
and khaki shorts that stopped just above a pair of
What can you do with a tiny person who cares
annoyance but played along, veering all over the
just in time to see a small, brown-clad finger reach
knobby knees.
nothing for the grown-up boundaries you stake
driveway making car noises and earning a storm
I followed the straight line of her arm to where
out? What do you do when the structured world
of giggles for my efforts.
The world stopped. I sat there too shocked to
she held a little boy’s hand in her own. There I was,
you build to cope with change comes crashing
When the nursery school bus finally pulled up,
understand what had happened. My gaze snapped
a grimy ball of pudge with a crop of untidy brown
down to the tune of high-pitched laughter that
I set Eun Hyeok down and watched him waddle
back and forth between the expectant look on my
hair, my smile more cheek than tooth. It was a deep
ends in giggles and hiccups?
toward the opening door. He clambered up inside
host brother’s face and the poo stain on my leg.
smile. A little brother smile: the kind filled with un-
out and smear something across my bare knee.
Then all at once time sped up and I flew to the bathroom and washed and washed, but no amount of soap would make me feel clean. I glared into the bathroom mirror. “This was not in my contract.”
abashed joy that this older person thought I was worth her time. Still looking at the picture, my eyes moved back to my big sister’s smile. I understood my own smile,
1. Hide breakable objects on shelves
Things I learned during my grant year (cont.): 4. Give Eun Hyeok cat: distract for 10-15 minutes 5. Give Eun Hyeok iPod: distract for 20-25 minutes 6. Sit down and play together: satisfy indefinitely
grin just for the camera?
Some weeks after The Poo Incident, I was on my way out the door when Grandmother called
Perhaps these questions seem trite, but they
my name. She came hobbling around the corner
2. He can still reach there – place them even higher
were important to me. The youngest in my family,
with Eun Hyeok in tow, then placed his tiny hand
3. All snacks brought into the house are Eun Hy-
I’d always thought I’d be a good older brother if
in mine and grumbled a command.
eok’s snacks
armed wave before his teacher shut the door and he was zoomed away. I stood there until the van turned out of sight, and only then realized that I was smiling.
but what about hers? Was she really that happy to drag her grubby little brother to school, or was her
Things I learned during my grant year:
the van and had time for one big smile and a stiff-
given the opportunity. However, at the ripe old age
“Go wait for the bus.”
of 23, I figured I wasn’t likely to get that chance.
I looked down at Eun Hyeok and stifled a
The summer before I came to Korea, I was
Two months later, little Eun Hyeok took my
grumble of my own. Taking his hand without
flipping through a stack of childhood pictures in
naïve dreams of older brotherhood and quashed
comment, I led him down the driveway, shoes
search of something to show my new host family.
them with one casual swipe of his poo-covered
crunching on gravel as we went.
I found one picture facing the opposite way from
hand. There was nothing I could say in English
Things I learned during my grant year (cont.): 7. After your worst day of teaching, he will like you anyway 8. Exasperation is what love looks like in an older brother 9. The best lessons aren’t cultural; they’re human
Jason Gilmore is a 2012-2014 ETA at Gongju University High School in Gongju, Chungcheongnam-do.
Eun Hyeok was surprisingly quiet, silent like
05
A Jeonju Snowfall. Helen Li. Jeonju
07
SOCIAL and the MEDIA ETA in KOREA:
A MANICURED LIFE Jonathan Rice
“Don’t compare.” Mrs. Jai Ok Shim, the di-
bies are, both boys and girls point toward online
and stressful his day had been. He presented a life
college in 2013; it was a time of constant self-mar-
rector of Fulbright Korea, left me and 79 other
computer and mobile phone games as a top inter-
on social media that was different from his reality.
keting. Unsure of whether I would have the op-
English Teaching Assistants (ETAs) with those
est. While I love Facebook, Twitter and Instagram,
For a while, I even joined in, posting pictures from
portunity to come to Korea, I spent many hours
parting words on the day we were headed to our
I was not used to the intense influence of social
weekend trips to Daejeon and Seoul as a way to
refining my resume, pitching myself in interviews
placement sites across the country. Whether on
media in Korea.
stay connected to my host family when traveling.
and writing cover letter after cover letter tout-
blogs, the omnipresent KakaoTalk Messenger1
One of the first things that my host father did
While it was fun, it sometimes felt strange when
ing my unique experience and abilities. Arriving
or in-person, she implored us to connect, but
to make me a part of my host family was grant me
they would interact with me more on BAND than
in Korea less than two months after graduation,
to avoid conversations about our homestay and
access to their BAND. A private social network,
in real life. I would post a picture and get many
my brain was still in marketing narrative mode.
school situations that would inevitably lead to
BAND allows my family to share the day’s best
comments from them, but then our dinner that
Combine my end-of-college job search with be-
comparisons. She reminded us that by not com-
moments with each other. Over fried chicken, he
same evening would be nearly silent.
ing surrounded by a pool of naturally competitive
paring our Fulbright grant year with others we
ecstatically showed me goofy pictures of the kids
In another case, one of my students showed
and driven individuals, and my propensity to sell
could avoid feeling jealous or left out; Mrs. Shim
on vacation at Haeundae Beach and of his corpo-
me an app that lets you completely redefine your
rather than share experiences increased further.
emphasized that each ETA experience is different
rate dinners. While I found the concept amusing
facial features after taking a selfie; a casual snap
In our discussion groups at the start of Fulbright
and that we should enjoy those variances.
and innovative, it also raised a disturbing premise.
on a phone transforms into an airbrushed mas-
orientation, I, along with other ETAs, would con-
Yet the tools for comparison are everywhere;
Even within my host family, my host parents and
terpiece for friends and family to see. What this
stantly reference my prior experiences in leader-
I am in a country that wholeheartedly embraces
siblings apply a filter to how they present them-
culture of social media creates is, to borrow from
ship, teaching and living abroad.
social media and smartphones. The kids that I
selves to each other — social media invades the
Walter Issacson’s “Steve Jobs,” a reality-distortion
My early blog posts and Facebook statuses
teach have newer and nicer mobile devices than
closest bonds of all. One day, my host mother
field. We use social media to present the version
from Korea read more like press releases than
the teachers do. When I ride the subway in Seoul,
and father went on a trip to a park, during which
of ourselves we want others and ourselves to per-
personal moments. One weekend, after failing the
there are often few sounds beyond the screech-
they sent some beautiful photos of the two of
ceive. Life becomes manicured moments woven
second Korean language quiz, I broke down after
ing of the train and the constant pings of mobile
them smiling in front of a lake to BAND. How-
together into a perfectly arched narrative of suc-
spending about eight hours writing out hangeul
devices. Everyone, from small children to elderly
ever, when I asked my host father how the day
cesses and failures.
characters. When blogging about the experience
men and women, is on their smartphone. When
went, he displayed mixed feelings, giving a look
My reality-distortion field ramped up in the
I ask my middle school students what their hob-
of concern and a sigh as he explained how busy
months leading up toward my graduation from
1. A popular text-messaging service in Korea
though, that highly emotional and stressful time turned into a throwaway line: “Repetition, rep-
09
“
As wonderful as highlights and lowlights can be, the more mundane and real struggles matter. I owe it to my family, friends, colleagues and the public to share my truth.
”
etition, repetition. Korean language. Lesson plan-
the forefront over daily realities and more mun-
taken some time, but in learning to not compare
cleaned-up version of my life. Sometimes, I in-
ning. Teaching.” I did not want to expose my vul-
dane examples.
within Korea’s social culture, I have also realized
dulge — an Instagram of the hand-written note
that emotional expression should come at the
from a student. However, when a week goes by
forefront of storytelling.
and every class just feels subpar, that is a mo-
nerability or true struggle.
My failures are defined not by epic tragedies,
I saw this masking of reality manifest in other
but by feelings. There are days when I wonder if
ETAs as well. From blog posts about receiving
my students left the class with more knowledge or
Mrs. Shim tells new ETAs, “Don’t compare.”
ment to turn toward social media too. Instead
a love letter from a student to Facebook status-
less. Often a day feels long after slogging through
While that advice refers to habits of media con-
of looking to present myself positively, sharing
es about traversing Korea with a host family for
four unruly and unmotivated classes, but the week
sumption, as storytellers, we also need to ask
that slightly unfavorable experience leads to ad-
Chuseok, most stories ETAs present are about
goes by quickly in a cycle of repetition as I pres-
ourselves: who is the audience that each of us is
vice and fellowship from others. Sometimes, it’s
entertaining. That is logical, too — no one wants
ent the same perhaps-flawed lesson 20 times over.
trying to reach with all of this content? For me,
important to be honest and share that I couldn’t
to broadcast something boring. The reality-distor-
There is the internal burst of anger when a class
it is my family, friends and potential employers
control my class or that my host family seemed
tion field extends to all, even our closest friends.
of first graders I haven’t seen in four weeks is
back home. I want to convey my accomplish-
to be avoiding me. I lift the reality-distortion
For the general audience of people who consume
cancelled and the only thing I can do is indirectly
ments, successes and newfound cultural experi-
field for a moment and, instead of a comparison
my content, for those who don’t have the chance
lobby my co-teacher that “maybe” I can “possibly”
ences. As wonderful as highlights and lowlights
or a perfect story, we have an exchange of ideas
to have a long phone conversation or in-person
teach them soon. Sometimes, it is a feeling that,
can be, the more mundane and real struggles mat-
— a conversation.
chat with me at the end of a stressful day, life takes
even surrounded by friendly faces and warm hearts
ter. I owe it to my family, friends, colleagues and
on an alternate reality. Like television, my life is
around a dinner table in Seoul, I am very alone.
the public to share my truth. Life in Korea isn’t
then seemingly only made of my biggest break-
One positive of our new social culture is that it
perfect. My homestay and school are often won-
through moments or grandest failures. For ETAs
pressures everyone to write about themselves of-
derful, but also at times frustrating and upsetting.
in Korea, that can sometimes mean a Facebook
ten, whether through a 2,000-word blog post or a
As someone trying to navigate both Korea’s
news feed filled with endless comments about
140-character tweet. In that same vein, the call to
social media culture and my interactions with
amazing co-teachers, superb students and perfect
tell stories is also one for authenticity. After read-
the greater Fulbright community, I have found
host families, or, conversely, hellish examples of
ing and writing many vaguely positive or negative
the key to avoiding the comparison issue and
being unsupported by the system and outright
stories, I realized that a textured life can be just
remaining true to the experience comes from
avoided by students. Entertaining story arcs take
as, if not more, insightful as a manicured one. It’s
balance. Inevitably, I am tempted to present a
Jonathan Rice is a 2013-2014 ETA at Gakri Middle School in Ochang, Chungcheongbuk-do.
11
Chasing the Light. Neal Singleton. Busan Blue Dragon. Neal Singleton. Yesan
Hallabong Farm. Neal Singleton. Jeju The Palace. Eric Horvath. Seoul
MUTING MY MOTHER TONGUE Hana Lee “그동안 쌤한테 궁금하거나 물어보고 싶 었던 것 있니1?” I asked in perfect Korean. A chorus of “daebak” and “menboong 2” filled the air. The students incredulously asked, “So, you understood what we were saying all along?”
longing and, as a result, I resented my parents for
previous visits to Korea that Korean-Americans
mized their minimal knowledge of English, kid-
immigrating to America and settling down in an
were often stereotyped visitors who received both
ding around with me by saying, “I love you…
area where we stood out like sore thumbs. Until
undeserved respect and unwarranted contempt.
Joke!” or offering me and my friends cigarettes
I had the opportunity to converse with my new
Settling down in Korea would be different from
when we caught them smoking nearby the school.
Fulbright friends about performing race and mi-
briefly visiting, I told myself; yet, I still vastly un-
In the beginning, because they saw a teacher
croaggressions, I could never quite understand
derestimated the challenges I would encounter.
who looked Korean, my students did not make an
“Yes, I did.” I gave a knowing chuckle while
nor explain the reason why I had felt so out of
When I got to my placement at a technical
effort to learn or use English. I realized that my
eyeing the students that had given me the most
place despite the kindness and friendliness of my
high school in Naju, my co-teacher asked me not
students would only use English with me if they
trouble all year.
childhood friends.
to disclose that I could read, write, speak or under-
truly believed I was not Korean in any way. They
Myung Jin, one of my angels, just kept staring
I remember actively working to remove myself
stand Korean. He wanted me to present myself to
could not fully grasp the concept of a Korean-
in disbelief, muttering, “Really, menboong. So every
from the confines of the model minority stereo-
the students as “wholly American,” something I
American. To them, I had to be either one or the
time… I just made a fool of myself using body
type. I hid my good grades and only showed my
have never been, even in America.
other; I couldn’t be both. I spent the entirety of
language… menboong.”
friends the lower grades I got on my assignments
After meeting my students, I understood my
the first semester convincing my students that
I laughed as I let the news sink in to the first
in elementary school. Over time, I successfully
co-teacher’s request better. Many of them showed
I was legitimately and fully American and not a
of many classes in which I’d reveal my big secret.
separated myself from being seen as the stereo-
a minimal grasp of basic academic subjects, even
“real” Korean, though I am undeniably as Korean
Another student, shyly looking down at his
typical Asian, for better or worse. However, I was
math and Korean, and had already given up on
as I am American. In efforts to downplay my Ko-
desk, quietly gave me the first apology of the few
still Asian, still Korean, in many ways. I had grown
themselves and their situations. At times they
rean side further, I forced an audible accent on the
I would receive. “I’m sorry…”
to love and accept my Korean-ness over the years,
seemed like hopeless cases in the education-driv-
rare occasion I spoke my normally perfect Korean
and I even proudly shared some of the food and
en Korean system. Some of them would get into
and even actively butchered students’ names.
language with my friends. The Fulbright grant was
fights because they felt the need to challenge and
The staff knew of my fluency because the
an opportunity to reconcile my complicated iden-
disregard authority through open hostility. But
principal had announced it on my first day, but
tity as a Korean-American.
even though they were simply not cut out for a
I did my best to honor my co-teacher’s request in
This exchange was all in Korean, a language I had spoken since childhood. Until high school, my sister, two cousins and I were the only four Koreans in my school dis-
I wasn’t so naïve as to think that I would be
typical classroom setting and couldn’t make com-
the presence of students. Because I spent most
trict in rural Pennsylvania. I lacked a sense of be-
fully accepted as a “Korean Korean.” I knew from
plex sentences, my students innovatively maxi-
of my time in the main gyomushil 3 where students
1. “So, do you have any questions for me?” 2. “Amazing” and “mind blown” in Korean
3. Teachers’ office
15
“
As valuable as a second language can be, I wanted my students to be proud and knowledgeable of Korean first and foremost. But I couldn’t expect my students to own and take pride in their heritage while I was struggling to find the delicate balance between the two cultures myself.
always bustled about, I often had to pretend that
among my students.
”
I couldn’t understand the other teachers when
Through my budding relationships with my
they approached me first. Whenever they spoke
co-workers, I gained a sense of peace with my Ko-
to me in Korean, I just looked intently at them
rean-American identity and my place in the school
as I smiled and nodded with a confused look on
community; however, my self-identity as a teacher
my face, trying to convey my understanding. They
was still being challenged. I was plagued by guilt at
would just awkwardly laugh and back away, un-
the idea that I was somehow promoting American
aware that I had been asked to feign ignorance.
language, media and culture in a supremacist way
This deception made me feel isolated, fake and
because I was portraying myself as someone who
undeservedly incompetent, and I lost many op-
didn’t feel the need to learn or understand Korean
portunities to develop relationships with my co-
language or culture. As valuable as a second lan-
workers during my first semester.
guage can be, I wanted my students to be proud and
I eventually found a safe space, the female
knowledgeable of Korean first and foremost. But I
teachers’ lounge, to speak Korean with the female
couldn’t expect my students to own and take pride
teachers and establish relationships with them
in their heritage while I was struggling to find the
during our second semester. Until this point, I had
delicate balance between the two cultures myself.
felt so alone in this quest to convince my students
Maybe even worse, because I presented myself
of my American identity; some of the teachers,
as someone who couldn’t even attempt to learn
remembering the principal’s initial announcement,
the language of the country in which I lived, I be-
would honestly tell their students that I was fluent
came a bad role model for my students. Some of
in Korean without realizing that I was working so
the students would wonder aloud why it was that
hard to convince my students otherwise. I recruit-
I couldn’t speak any Korean though I was living
ed the female teachers onto my side and, though I
in Korea. At some level, this underlying sense of
only spoke Korean with them, they helped cover
“she’s not trying, so why should we?” manifested
for me and squelched any rumors or skepticism
in their attitudes toward learning.
The first semester they would say inappro-
During my final week of teaching, I conducted all
priate and hurtful comments not only to test my
of my classes only in Korean, and I felt connec-
Korean abilities, but also to get a rise out of me
tions strengthen in those one-hour classes in ways
and observe my reaction. They never misbehaved
I couldn’t through the whole past year despite my
when the co-teacher was present, but as soon as I
best efforts — a bittersweet end to a rough year.
was left alone, the students would begin to stare
Though I struggled through my year, all of
me down, sing at the top of their lungs and taunt
these challenges taught me that there is nothing
me. I was so overwhelmed by the end of the class
I can’t overcome with time, experience and effort.
that I could never remember what had actually
My students reminded me every day that there is
happened. Everything was a blur, and I left class
more to people than what meets the eye, and in-
with a bad taste in my mouth.
fluenced me to try to think things through from
The school had little to no expectations for its
their perspective before growing impatient or
students, which made it difficult to create an en-
making judgments. I hope to remember and ap-
vironment of excellence and respect in my own
ply these lessons as I return to Fulbright Korea
classroom. With time, I learned to take things less
this year for three more months at an academi-
personally, ignore their disruptive outbursts and
cally rigorous high school. I’ve come back to give
make the best of whatever they offered me that
myself a second shot: another chance to redeem
day. Eventually, these incidents slowly decreased,
my identity as a teacher and to own my identity as
and I chose to change my main objective from
a Korean-American.
teaching my students English to simply showing them that I cared. In retrospect, I should have just used Korean freely as a tool to relate to my students. At the
Hana Lee is a 2012-2014 ETA at Namsan High School in Busan.
time, I was too worried about what the school would think and how my co-teachers would react.
17
Raised Hands. Andrew Cheng. Pyeongyang, North Korea
19
SEOUL on
TWO WHEELS Connor Dearing
Before arriving in Korea, I knew the country,
at 10 p.m. packed with sleeping, uniformed high
to be common amongst my Korean peers. Copious
neck warmer, and blinking front and back lights.
and Seoul specifically, were known to have a 빨리
schoolers finally on their way home; assisting my
amounts of soju? Not worth the piercing headache
With these gifts from my host family and schools,
빨리1 proclivity. But I didn’t expect it to be so liter-
contracted co-teachers with administrative work
and Sundays glued to bed. Noraebang singing rooms?
I’m prepared to blend into the crowd. But I’m no
al. From the early morning when I leave to my late
into the early evening. However, one night I came
You can only sing “Africa4” with tone-deaf friends so
match for the Koreans with whom I’m sharing
evening return, I am surrounded by people moving
home to my 12-year-old host brother’s tears, the
many times. PC bangs? No, I don’t think smoky, dark,
the road, who take biking, like all of their other
at a rapid pace — up and down, inside and out,
first I’d witnessed first-hand in the country. Dev-
dimly-lit rooms filled with screens of creatures fight-
hobbies, seriously. I am routinely passed by groups
their motivations always obscure.
astated by his mother’s reaction to his average test
ing to the death would help calm me down.
of men in matching uniforms, on high-tech ac-
I understand the speed. With such fortitude,
score, comparing himself obsessively to his older
So, upon moving to Seoul, I took a differ-
cessorized bikes who ride with such speed and
drive and tireless work ethic, it is no wonder that
brother — the carefree, awkward and curious Yoo
ent approach. I rode my bike right into the city’s
effortless ease I want to believe the bike is riding
Koreans raised their country from sheer poverty to
Jun that I had come to love was unrecognizable. I
GDP-pumping heart, the Han River, joining hun-
for them. There are also the older ajusshis5 who’ve
being the 15th strongest GDP in the world. How-
wanted him to see his strengths, to enjoy his youth
dreds, sometimes thousands, of others biking in
found a way to trick out their antiquated rides with
ever, those very qualities that created the “Miracle
and figure things out for himself via trial and error,
two-wheeled synchronization. The Han is Seoul’s
green and blue strobe lights and speakers blasting
on the Han” are also what make being a citizen in
but it was an idealistic response, and I held back.
mouth — a tiny opening where its residents can
trot music6.
the South Korea of today a difficult and tiring ex-
Lying on our bunkbed, it was silent but for his
breathe. But can they ever really let go?
perience, where work, competition, pressure and
crying and the turning pages of his science book.
From my apartment in densely-packed Bangh-
much like the rest of Korea, sights seem to repeat
worry never seem to end.
He recovered quickly, eating dinner at his academy
wa-dong, a commuter neighborhood in far south-
themselves until they become a comfortable, if
In my first year in Korea living with a host fami-
from then on and arriving home at 10 p.m. But I
west Seoul, I’m on my bike traversing dust, con-
frustrating, familiarity. The 7-11s pouring out wa-
ly in Gwangju, a major city in Jeollanam-do, initially
could no longer separate myself from the stress
struction and speed bumps — symbols of growth,
tery Cass beer and instant ramyeon, the overpriced
it was easy to separate myself from the competition
and demands of the people around me. I felt I had
change and ambition. Minutes later I’m through
and underwhelming chain coffee shops, the chae-
that affects Koreans, with my relatively short work-
to keep pace. I buried myself in elementary Korean
a tunnel and on the Han River trail, which begins
bol7-owned, characterless apartment cluster views.
ing hours and stress-free but incredibly rewarding
textbooks until the early morning and redid lesson
with an ecological preserve, a nice moment of
As I near Yeouido Park, my ride transforms
teaching experiences. As a foreigner, I had my own
plans again and again, yet never felt fulfilled after
calm. However, with bikers coming at me on both
into a game of Temple Run as I navigate through
set of problems — loneliness, language ineptitude
their execution.
sides, I don’t dare stop and admire.
Seoul’s most popular stretch of riverside. Couples
The ride across the city goes on and on, and
and a lack of cheese among them. Slowly, I got
It was unhealthy assimilation, and I needed to
I am dressed Korean head to toe, with match-
in matching t-shirts attempt selfie camera shots
more and more immersed in Korean life — distin-
find ways to unwind. I used trial and (mostly) er-
ing neon green and black aerodynamic spandex
while riding their tandem yellow bikes. Teenagers
guishing my 친구2 from my 형3; taking the subway
ror to sort through the stress relievers that seemed
and training shirt, a flamboyant pink and purple
cruise through on plastic, tiny penny boards. Every-
1. Literally, “quickly quickly;” it refers to moving fast and getting work done in a short amount of time. 2. Friend, one born the same year as the speaker 3. Older brother, used by a male speaker to refer to someone at least one year older than himself
4. A song by American rock band Toto 5. Middle-aged men 6. Named after the two-beat “foxtrot,” trot is the earliest form of Korean pop music. 7. A large corporation
21
“
I’m still not sure of my destination, but like my students, co-workers and millions of others sharing this confined cityscape, I feel driven.
”
one stops abruptly at the sight of wildflowers. It’s
I get up. I’m back on my bike. By this point
an art to maintain a strong riding pace amidst all
my fellow riders have diminished, my calves feel
the commotion, and soon enough I crash into a
fluid and my rhythm and speed are exact. I’m still
middle schooler. Luckily he gets up and moves on
not sure of my destination, but like my students,
unscathed; I lie on the ground with a bloody chin
co-workers and millions of others sharing this con-
and a broken cellphone.
fined cityscape, I feel driven. With each rotation of
Is this letting go?
my wheels, I feel a sense of urgency and renewal.
I look up. The sunset isn’t striking. The colors
I have a wound to patch up, English to teach, re-
are subdued, creating a noirish orange-brown sky.
lationships to strengthen. I’m not worried. I’m not
Building lights replace stars. As more and more peo-
relaxed. I’m going.
ple come home from work, my thoughts easily shift
Around 10 p.m., there is still one last rider speed-
toward the different lives unfolding, the different
ing past me: a fully-suited, briefcase-carrying com-
stories being told. The mother reading book after
pany man. Head tilted back, eyes closed, hands free.
book to her captivated daughter over a bowl of frozen persimmons. The grandfather, after decades of poverty and manual labor, settling down to watch a blockbuster on his 3D Samsung TV. A brother and
Connor Dearing is a 2012-2014 ETA at Deokwon Girls’ High School in Seoul.
a sister, finding out their mother’s health condition, vowing never to abandon each other. There is pain, burden, pressure, learning and family.
Flatland. Andrew Cheng. Pyeongyang, North Korea
23
BARE-LY CULTURED Cameron Demetre
It all began when Bub Hae, in his Ssangyong High School Stunners uniform, said to me, “Teacher, we need to show you Korean culture.”
stood, in all my genetic wonder. Nakedly we made our way to the pool baths, which looked just like the ancient Roman bath-
I wish I could say that I jumped at the oppor-
houses whose sanitation I had questioned since
tunity, that I am always ready to embrace such in-
high school history class. Unaware of my inner
vitations, but on this particular evening, I simply
turmoil, the boys displayed no such reluctance.
was not feeling it. I was tired. I had just enjoyed
They loved the fact that their teacher was with
two full days of baseball and was riding the high
them, and they were prone to saying such things
High School. On top of his remarkable stature,
As much as I want to erase some of the mental
of an emotional championship win; however, at
as, “Teacher, we know your secret.”
he is also the second best Judo fighter in the +100
images that developed from that night, I will never
Ssangyong Stunners Celebrating a Tournament Win. Cameron Demetre. Cheonan
that point, all I could think about was getting away
I will leave that up to interpretation because
kilogram weight class in all of the secondary
forget my jjimjilbang experience with the baseball
from the 15- to 18-year-old demographic for a few
frankly, I still do not entirely know what they meant.
students in South Korea. I repeat, he is big and
team, from the awkward dropping of my gar-
precious hours. Alas, with Bub Hae’s direct words,
I could feel the weight of all their eyes bear-
strong. I could not have been more fully aware of
ments to the overwhelming joy of knowing that
ing down on me as I — secrets and all — slowly
that heart-pulsing fact as he positioned himself
my body parts would remain at a healthy prox-
So, exactly what aspect of Korean culture had I
plunged into the first pool of water. After dab-
in front of my soaking-wet, vulnerable frame. I
imity from their body parts. It was an unplanned
yet to encounter? This night, Korean culture meant
bling in the warm water, we headed to the next
panicked. I quickly suggested that we play the arm
cultural exchange — one neither spent in a classy
joining Bub Hae and the boys for some quality
pool, which was markedly cooler. Culturally, I
wrestling game “Mercy” to avoid as much bodily
suit, nor made possible by weeks of intensive
time at the local jjimjilbang, or public bathhouse.
don’t know if I had any choice in the matter, but I
contact as possible. Thankfully, Bub Hae accept-
language learning classes, but rather one that oc-
should not have followed them there.
ed, and we began what would become the most
curred in a “stripped down” fashion. A fashion
important game of “Mercy” of my life.
that would come back to me the very next week,
my comfort bubble was about to be invaded.
As I entered the outdated jjimjilbang facility, I was unsure of what to expect, though I had heard
It was an ambush of sorts. The boys began to
rumors of places where the eyes of a thousand
roughhouse with each other, and it soon turned
As our fingers engaged, I mustered every
when Bub Hae welcomed me on the way to school
Korean men peel to naked foreign bodies. Rumors
into a full-on wrestling brawl. As the fight ensued,
ounce of strength I had to twist my student’s arms
with a leering grin on his face saying, “Teacher, I
soon ceded to reality as I was given my very own
I saw things that a teacher should never have to
back. If need be, I was willing to break my own
know your secret.”
jjimjilbang uniform of very well-worn, but thank-
see, and I immediately averted my eyes from all of
wrists so my dignity could remain intact. By some
fully well-washed, t-shirt and shorts. We made our
the nakedness, trying to mitigate the awkwardness
oddity, I won. It was a moment that rivaled the
way to the locker room where I paused, wonder-
of the whole ordeal. Just as my mind churned out
1980 U.S. hockey team’s “Miracle on Ice” — at
ing if I would have to do what I knew I had to
a coherent excuse, Bub Hae invited me to wrestle
least, for me it was. We shared some laughs and
do: disrobe in front of my students. I tentatively
with him.
carried on toward another pool, but not before
pulled one article of clothing off after the other
Now let me preface something about Bub
until there was nothing left to remove. There I
Hae. Bub Hae is the Hulk Hogan of Ssangyong
Cameron Demetre is a 2013-2014 ETA at Ssangyong High School in Cheonan.
Bub Hae said in his simple English, “Teacher, this is Korean culture.”
25
Up at Dawn. Neal Singleton. Bagan, Myanmar
the
MIGRANTS’
ARIRANG Andrew Cheng
munities almost seamlessly into the seemingly solidcolor fabric of Korean society.
left out of the conversation: immigrants. I had never truly noticed the presence of mi-
One cloudy fall afternoon, my friends and I
food stalls for tasty things to eat. Vietnam was sell-
From ancient times until the opening of its bor-
grant workers in Changwon because they are mostly
went downtown to visit the Changwon Migrants’
ing pho, Indonesia offered sate ayam and Russia had a
ders in the early 90s, the so-called Hermit Kingdom
employed in industry, such as in one of the city’s
Arirang Multicultural Festival, the largest of its kind
barbecue grill billowing enormous clouds of smoke
was notorious for its isolation, and its correlated
hundreds of factories in a different part of town.
in South Korea. We had heard that the variety of
in every direction. For lunch, I got menudo and
pride in its homogeneity has always been strong.
But they are here. They make just enough money to
delicious and authentic ethnic foods there would be
turon from the Philippines and sneaked bites of my
This has helped it retain much of its cultural heri-
live comfortably and send the rest home. Due to the
staggering. Even more astounding, though, was the
friends’ pad thai and tandoori chicken. A truly global
tage, but it also means that its adolescent relation-
nature of their work, they tend not to stay in their
diversity of its participants.
culinary experience.
ship with outsiders who have come inside has been
host country permanently. Does that sound familiar?
awkward at best and strained at worst. Just who are
Now here I was at a party that my city threw for
The park was bustling with people of all colors
Sitting down to my feast, however, I suddenly
and sizes, from large Mongolian men demonstrating
felt that something was amiss. I scanned the food
traditional wrestling to Bangladeshi women cooking
stalls for the flag of Taiwan, but to no avail. De-
I think that up until now, my admittedly nar-
vague kinship with them and an odd estrangement.
up a storm. In one corner of the park, a Nepalese
spite the festival’s multicultural moniker, the sights
row-minded idea of the waygookin in Korea was of
I learned that some families have actually lived in
man decked out in hip-hop attire was rapping to
and smells that I craved from my mother country
the Western Anglophone Expat: an independent
Changwon for 10 years or longer. Their children
a captive audience. In another, Pakistani exchange
— oyster omelettes, stinky tofu, pineapple cakes —
twenty-something from Canada, South Africa, the
have grown up here. In this way, they reminded
students were blasting music and dancing to the
were nowhere to be found. It seemed odd to me that
U.K., Australia, New Zealand or the U.S., most likely
me strongly of the permanent immigrant enclaves
amusement of the Koreans wandering by. Groups
Taiwan wouldn’t participate in a festival where even
white, here for a brief teaching stint before moving
in California where I was raised — only their ad-
of white foreigners were dispersed all throughout,
countries that I never think about (such as Sri Lanka,
home or on to the next Asian country. Of course,
opted country is Korea, not the United States. Like
like powdered sugar dusting a red bean pancake.
Uzbekistan and Nepal) were doing brisk business.
over time I’ve met missionaries, foreign exchange
my family, they have toiled for years with the odds
As I munched a fried banana, I looked around
students and engineers from all over the world who
stacked against them for the sake of a more pros-
This shouldn’t have surprised me. Since South
again, and then it dawned on me: this was the Mi-
have expanded my understanding of what the dic-
perous future in a land they don’t call home. And
Korea’s meteoric rise to economic success in the
grants’ Arirang Festival, and the countries being cel-
tionary defines as “someone who is banished or
like my family, they continue to be perceived as for-
late 20th century, people from many other countries
ebrated here were those of migrant workers. Taiwan
purposely withdraws from their native country to
eign. Waygookin. People of a different color and a
in Asia have arrived to seek their fortunes here. But
didn’t get a booth because there are no Taiwanese
live somewhere else.” In expat circles today, the
different culture that need to be put under the spot-
their actual numbers were never more apparent than
migrant workers. There were also no booths repre-
negative or political connotation is played down in
light once a year under the guise of multicultural-
on the day I went to this collective cultural festival. I
senting the United States or any Western countries,
favor of identification with a somewhat exclusive
ism. “Where,” they are asked, “are you really from?
had never seen more non-East Asians assembled in
for that matter. All of the festival participants were
club. But we English teachers are obviously not the
Why don’t you show us?”
one place before.
people who had come from South, Southeast and
only expats in this country; indeed, to a Korean,
Clearly, I cannot answer for them, and to be
Central Asia, threading pockets of immigrant com-
“waygookin” includes a group we have categorically
honest, I already run into trouble with this question
Everywhere I turned, I heard a different language.
My favorite part, of course, was browsing the
these so-called “waygookin ”? 1
1. Korean word for foreigner, literally “outside country person”
its immigrant communities, simultaneously feeling a
29
myself. Let’s not pretend there aren’t Koreans who
folk song that epitomizes the ethos of the Hermit
genuinely believe all Americans are white. I’ve told
Kingdom. For a celebration of immigrant com-
many a curious Korean, “Yes, I actually am Ameri-
munities to be pegged with this title insinuates, I
can, but my parents are from Taipei.” Thirty years
believe, that foreigners may aspire to have their
ago, they began the long struggle toward socioeco-
melodies subsumed into the main theme.
nomic stability in the United States and, through
When I sat down to lunch that day, I was hold-
hard work, a bit of luck and a fierce dedication to
ing a mosaic, the foods on my plate classified neatly
their education, they achieved it. It is due to their
by their country of origin. But when it comes to
success that I can be where I am today: an Ameri-
the ability of food to bring people and cultures to-
can expat in Korea. I fit in with the Western Anglo-
gether, festivals like the Migrants’ Arirang seem to
phones, valued for my contributions to education; I
demonstrate more of a melting pot effect at work
am not the kind of foreigner my appearance would
in South Korea. Here, dozens of different minor-
seem to betray. So I don’t get a booth.
ity groups are kneaded into one ball. Here, the im-
How strange would it be, I wonder, if I did run
migrants and the expats are all called waygookin (al-
into a poor Taiwanese enclave somewhere in the
though it’s clear which bites of the stew are more
world and found myself staring straight into the
favored). Here, the identity and pride I have as both
face of my American privilege? What if I met a
Taiwanese and American are rendered as murky as
community of Taiwanese emigrants who were liv-
egg drop soup. While Korea’s prosperity and diver-
ing virtually unrecognized in a society that acknowl-
sity are both bound to increase, it remains to be
edged them once a year with a festival that celebrat-
seen how cultural assimilation will stir its stone pot
ed but also completely Othered them? I couldn’t
of hegemony.
say for sure which emotion would win out: delight, embarrassment, curiosity or inexplicable shame. Not that this matters. I may call myself American, or Taiwanese-American, or an expat, or a
Andrew Cheng is a 2012-2014 high school ETA in
Identity. Andrew Cheng. Changwon
Changwon, Gyeongsangnam-do.
foodie, but when all is said and done, I am just a waygookin, like all my fellow English teachers, like all these dark-skinned migrant workers. We are not Korean, not part of 우리, the culture of “us.” It is worth noting that “Arirang” refers to the ancient
31
THE SEOUL
OLYMPICS: A STUDY IN DIFFERENCE Helen Li
Namsan Tower. Neal Singleton. Seoul
Each Olympic Games has had its own flavor, its own
and rebuilding in the world’s largest cities; in addi-
character and its own goals that ride the undercurrent of
tion, the international attention could generate fu-
Olympic idealism. These contrasts make each Olympiad
ture tourism, one of the fastest-growing elements
unique, as both internal and external forces come into play.
of the world economy2.
South Korea hosted the 1988 Olympic Games in its capi-
If, however, one turns to the Seoul Olym-
tal city Seoul. The 16-day mega-event marked a turning
pics, a different narrative emerges. As Professors
point in the nation’s international standing. The following
John and Margaret Gold state, “Seoul’s decision
study investigates the major differences between the Seoul
to seek the 1988 Games was less inspired by the
Games and other Olympics, the difficulties faced by the
thoughts of financial benefit — which had yet to
planning committee and South Korea’s strategies for hosting
re-emerge when the city gained the nomination in
a successful Olympics.
1981 — than by the success of Tokyo 1964, which the Koreans believed had altered perceptions of
Since the 1960 Games in Rome, host countries
the Japanese and helped Japan join the ranks of
have come to see the Olympics as potential invest-
the developed world in the cultural, social, diplo-
ment opportunities. With the advent of interna-
matic and economic fields3.” Though South Korea
tional broadcasts, increased international tour-
achieved great infrastructural growth through the
ism and commercialization, hosting the Olympic
Olympic Games, the Seoul Olympics were mainly
Games could lead to new financial advantages in
a “coming-out” party for the country. As a coun-
the world market. In 1984, Los Angeles made an
try little known or understood beyond its wartime
unprecedented $225 million profit, demonstrating
activities, South Korea could use the Olympics as
the vast economic potential of hosting the Olym-
a vehicle of demystifying the country and elevat-
pic Games . Even without a profit, hosting the
ing its standing in the international community, as
Olympics could provide much-needed building
well as increasing its prestige and strength both
1
Seoul Olympus. Rachel Lim. Inwangsan, Seoul
1. Gold, John R. and Margaret R. Gold. “From A to B: The Summer Olympics, 1896-2008.” Olympics Cities: City Agendas, Planning, and the World’s Games, 1896-2016. Ed. John Gold and Margaret Gold. London: Routledge, 2011. 43. 2. Heying, Charles H., Matthew J. Burbank and Greg Andranovich. “World Class: Using the Olympics to Shape and Brand the American Metropolis.” Tourism, Culture, and Regeneration. Ed. Melanie K. Smith. Cambridge, MA: CAB International, 2006. 102. 3. Gold and Gold, 43.
33
inside and outside the country.
rated as the president of South Korea, beginning
also lay the discourse of East Asia’s “unusual” and
ed States, one driven by tradition and stagnancy
No clear path lay between the Seoul Olympics
a regime marked by oppression. Protests flared up
“exotic” spirit, countries still steeped in centuries-
rather than by modernity and progress.
and its international aspirations. Three primary
in 1987, as the nation readied itself for interna-
old traditions and out of touch with the modern
Yet, these narratives of South Korea did not
difficulties confronted the Games, each of which
tional visitors. For the Seoul Olympic Organizing
world. For example, National Geographic published
fit with the economic realities of the time. South
required different counter techniques on the part
Committee, these political realities would need to
an article on South Korea in August 1988 in order
Korea in the 1980s was experiencing a period of
of the Planning Committee: political tensions,
be circumvented to avoid an Olympic legacy simi-
to provide an illustration of the country before
extraordinary growth. In 1975, the country’s GNP
Orientalism and the Tourist Gaze.
lar to that of Mexico City 1968, where the event
the Games. To write this article, journalist Cathy
was 44.3 billion U.S. dollars. By 1980, it had risen
During South Korea’s initial bid for the Olym-
was marred by the Tlatelolco Massacre of regime
Newman traveled to a remote village in Gyeongju.
over 40% to 63.1 billion and in 1983, 77.4 billion
pics and throughout the preparation years, South
protesters. Indeed, the political demonstrations in
Through her commentary, one gathers the sense
dollars. At the same time, per capita income rose
Korea faced political strains on many fronts.
1987 and the possibility of jeopardizing the 1988
that South Korea was a country unchanged for
from $1,207 in 1975 to $1,586 in 1980, and finally
Following the Korean War, South Korea went
Games led to the peaceful June 20 declaration
thousands of years. She speaks to an elderly tradi-
to $1,870 in 1983. Korean exports, valued at 55
through a series of brutal regime changes, none
which put Chun Doo Hwan out of power.
tional artist and reports his words: “‘American line
million dollars in 1962, increased to 24 billion by
particularly democratic. In 1979, shortly after the
In addition to these political issues, South
is sharp, unyielding: the Washington Monument,
19838. South Korea was fast becoming one of the
decision to bid for the 1988 Olympics, President
Korea faced the discourse of “exotic weakness.”
the tail fins of a car.’ He sliced the air with a chop-
world’s most important new economies, as well as
Park Chung Hee was assassinated in a military
In his famous 1979 work, philosopher Edward
stick to illustrate. ‘Korean line,’ he said, ‘is a curve:
one of the most urban.
coup led by General Chun Doo Hwan, destroy-
Said coined the term “Orientalism” to describe
the softness of a woman in her hanbok, the green
Given the history of Orientalism and the eco-
ing all pretenses of democracy. Using martial law,
the historical process whereby Eastern nations
waves of mountains surrounding Kyongju, the
nomic boom of the three countries, it would seem
Chun immediately closed the National Assembly,
gradually took on the reputation of being weaker,
jade ornaments that dangle like ripe pears from
advisable for the planning committees to commit
arrested opposition leaders and banned political
more feminine than their Western counterparts .
the gold Silla crowns .’”
to the full expression of modernity in the Seoul
activities and demonstrations. These repressive ac-
This mindset persisted and permeated 20th cen-
According to this dialogue, America is harsh
Games. One final obstacle, however, made such a
tions reached a high point in 1980 when, on May
tury interactions between the two regions. This
modernity and South Korea is gentle tradition.
course of action a difficult one: the Tourist Gaze.
18, he sent special forces into the city of Gwangju
distinction took on a particularly potent form
Newman moves on to document the lives of the
Coined by John Urry, the concept holds that a
to put down a student demonstration, resulting
in the discussion of sports culture, long associ-
Cho family, among whom rigid customs prevail
tourist develops distinct symbols of a country
in hundreds of deaths in what would become
ated with the masculine “West” and kept beyond
and Confucianism encourages the ideal of obedi-
in their cognitive landscape and will look to col-
known as the Gwangju Uprising . On September
reach of the feminine “East.” Beyond the histori-
ence to authority . Such language invokes a feeling
lect those signs, for example hanbok and arirang in
1, 1980, Chun Doo Hwan was officially inaugu-
cal reputation of East Asia’s physically weak body
of a nation that is entirely different from the Unit-
South Korea. The tourist, who goes to
4
5
4. Heo, Uk and Terence Roehrig. South Korea since 1980. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2010. 31. 5. Said applied his theory primarily to Middle Eastern countries, but he and other scholars have since extrapolated to other countries east of Europe, including Japan, Korea and China.
6
7
6. Newman, Cathy. “Kyongju, Where Korea Began.” National Geographic. August 1988. 265. 7. Newman, 267. 8. Manheim, Jarol B. ‘The 1988 Seoul Olympics as Public Diplomacy.” The Western Political Quarterly 43 (1990): 281.
35
“
Thirty years after its successful introduction, South Korea will look to cement its place in the world as a country full of cultural and traditional surprises for every visitor, but at the same time bursting with innovation and modernity.
”
great length to leave the familiar and experience
future dialogue. The Olympic Games are a pack-
taneously demonstrated modernity and tradition. Histo-
Already in its preparations for the Games, one can see
the unknown, does not wish to see more of the
aged, staged phenomenon where the host nation
rian Sandra Collins brings into play the phrase “modern
the continued focus on “modern hybridity.” Thirty years
same. Even viewing the Seoul Olympic Ceremo-
can create the history and culture it wants others
hybridity” to describe the East Asian Olympics, an amal-
after its successful introduction, South Korea will look
ny on television and finding it indistinguishable
to internalize. The Olympic Planning Committees
gamation of modernity coupled with ancient culture .
to cement its place in the world as a country full of cul-
from Los Angeles would diminish its attraction,
have the chance to design their performed copy for
During Seoul’s bid for the 1988 Games, their promo-
tural and traditional surprises for every visitor, but at the
restricting future impulses to visit South Korea.
international consumption.
tional display featured their time-honored culture using
same time bursting with innovation and modernity.
11
Tourism in the last few decades has become the
The planning committee for Seoul 1988 had a
advanced slide presentations. Korean Air stewardesses
Today, Samsung Electronics is the world’s largest
world’s largest industry. National tourism sources
unique weapon at their disposal: the relatively be-
representing one of the most modern and advanced in-
handset maker, beating out Apple and Nokia14. South
compete to advertise the individual nature of their
nign cultural currency of South Korea. A smoke-
dustries in Korea served visitors in traditional Korean
Korea has steady footholds in many of the world’s most
country, something no other nation can provide.
screen of sorts, cultural displays have long been
costumes . Carefully placed artwork in the Olympic
advanced industries. Culturally, South Korean pop mu-
To deny the visitor or the viewer the expectations
a mainstay for circumventing political and eco-
stadiums “called for Korea’s traditional patterns such
sic has global appeal. As a rather unorthodox example,
they came with would be to commit a grave error
nomic public relations thorns. The Main Olympic
as multicolor stripes, hunting scenes and embroidery to
take legendary American rapper Snoop Dogg/Lion,
in a country’s promotion. Thus one sees that the
Stadium in Seoul was designed so that its lines fol-
be included with a slightly modern interpretation [such
who stated that Korean pop was his guilty pleasure on
obstacles facing the Seoul Olympics were, like the
lowed the curves of a Chosun Dynasty porcelain
as brighter colors and minimalistic designs] to display
the blogging website reddit15. Though perhaps Snoop
events themselves, highly complex. The organiz-
vase. The swimming pool imitated the iron turtle
Korea’s true image13.” This mix of old and new existing
Dogg/Lion would not attribute his interest in South
ers needed to reconcile the stigma of Orientalism
ships of the 16th century . Every detail of the
side by side came to define the Seoul Olympics. Visitors
Korean girl groups to the Olympics, the 1988 Games
with the need to accommodate the Tourist Gaze,
torch ceremony from torch design to runner uni-
could leave with a pre-packaged feeling of a country all
marked a turning point in South Korea’s relationship
all within the context of political tensions and in-
forms was designed domestically to reflect South
at once benign, exotic and modern.
with the world — a successful coming-out party indeed.
stability.
Korea’s 5,000-year-old cultural tradition . A visi-
Viewed from this perspective, the 1988 Seoul Games
The instant nature of the Olympics and the
tor to the Seoul Olympics could easily experience
were a massive success for a country only very recently
international attention focused upon a single city
a feeling of exoticism, fulfilling the needs of the
ravaged by war. One need only speak to a South Ko-
for 16 days create many obstacles for host coun-
Tourist Gaze and guiding the tourists’ literal gaze
rean citizen about the Olympics to feel their pride in
tries, but at the same time many opportunities. Re-
away from stickier political realities.
the Seoul Games and their belief in its contribution to
9
10
12
gardless of a country’s previous history, if it can
In addition, the planning committee commit-
South Korean history. Koreans have more to look for-
present its version of culture and history in a per-
ted to gradually changing the very meaning of
ward to in their country’s Olympic story. In 2018, South
suasive media event, it has the potential to change
“exoticism.” The cultural displays in Seoul simul-
Korea will host the Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang.
9. Seoul Olympic Organizing Committee. Official Report: Organization and Planning Volume 1. Seoul, Korea: Korea Textbook Co., Ltd. 1989. 162-164. 10. Official Report: Organization and Planning Volume 1, 62. 11. Collins, Sandra. “The Fragility of Asian National Identity in the Olympic Games.” Owning the Olympics: Narratives of the New China. Eds. Monroe Price and Daniel Dayan. Ann Harbor: The University of Michigan Press, 2008. 186.
Helen Li is a 2013-2014 ETA at Changypeong High School in Changpyeong, Jeollanam-do.
12. Official Report: Organization and Planning Volume I, 40. 13. Official Report: Organization and Planning Volume I, 656. 14. “Samsung beats Apple, Nokia as world’s largest handset maker,” Fox News, April 27, 2012. 15. Reddit. “I’m Snoop Lion! Ask me Anything!” 1 April 2013. <http://www.reddit.com/r/IAmA/comments/14cb0c/im_snoop_ lion_ask_me_anything/>
37
Well Fermented. Neal Singleton. Seoul
39
SPIT Gabrielle Nygaard
Scraping a few errant grains of uneaten rice
exactly am I supposed to fix my gaze? Looking
but it feels inherently private. It’s called personal
into the slop pile and dropping my dirty tray onto
out at these passersby would just be asking for
hygiene, not public hygiene, isn’t it?
the stack with that distinct metal-on-metal bang
trouble. I’m obligated to insa 1 anyone who enters
But even worse is the moment of terror when
that I now associate with a full belly, I head out of
my field of vision, but I’m not confident that the
I’m caught hunched at an odd angle with my san-
the cafeteria and back to my classroom. I am the
brush-and-bow is an acceptable maneuver, much
daled feet straddling the perpetual hallway puddle
But the crowd doesn’t go wild. No one so
definition of peppy, smiling and waving to every-
less one I can pull off without a rogue toothbrush
(or Lake Jeonggwang2, as I’ve begun to think of
much as blinks, which shouldn’t surprise me, con-
one I meet with the gusto to rival a presidential
up the nostril or self-inflicted punch to the jaw
it), frenziedly scrubbing my teeth like it’s a matter
sidering all the snot-draining snorting and hack-
candidate. But when I reach the top of the stair-
given the slew of people pouring through. But
of national security. I had planned on getting in
ing that goes on when it’s anyone else who’s man-
case, suddenly this routine is cut short. I drag my
if I look out the window above the wash basin,
and out of there as quickly and covertly as pos-
ning the toothbrush. Hell, my students have even
feet as the sight of the third floor hall reminds me
I’m sure to make uncomfortable eye contact with
sible, but that’s all backfired now as a high-ranking
been known to snort and spit without that pretext
what comes next in the school day ritual.
some distracted student in the building opposite.
school official heads my way. Not only does he see
straight onto the classroom floor, no shame.
In the morning, after lunch and even following
Maybe I’ll look away, but they won’t. It seems that
me frothing green tea-flavored toothpaste at the
Brushing your teeth in the hallway is totally
hurried chocolate snacks crammed down during
a gangly foreigner doing something as mundane
mouth like a rabid dog with a peculiarly refined
normal here. In this situation, only my thinking
passing time, students and teachers alike dutifully
as brushing her teeth still outranks even the most
taste in beverages, but I have to greet him.
that it’s uncomfortable makes it so. I know it, but
flock with their dedicated school toothbrushes, tubes
important lecture from their Korean teachers in
Ergo, my vice principal is going to watch me spit.
as I deliver a mumbled good afternoon and duck
of toothpaste and cups to scrub, spit and rinse…
terms of entertainment value.
If I do a bad job of it, my toothpaste glob
into my classroom, I still can’t help but weigh the
As I resort to inspecting my socks, I can’t help
is going to sit there, a badge of my ineptitude in
awkwardness of the ordeal against a cavity or two.
but feel I’m being judged for my technique... for
the stone basin, and refuse to disappear down the
how long I brush... for the amount of toothpaste
drain, even if that’s exactly what I feel like doing
It’s even more so.
seeping out of the corner of my mouth... but no-
at that moment.
The scene verges on stressful. As my co-work-
body told me the rules. Not brushing enough is
Multiply the pressure when a gaggle of stu-
ers and pupils make their way through, there I am, a
surely bad. But is brushing for too long perhaps
dents starts to gather around the faucet for a drink
five-foot-nine roadblock of self-consciousness ob-
just as faux pas?
and gaze up at me curiously. Now I have a full-
…in the hallway. For a newcomer, brushing your teeth in the hall isn’t as awkward as it sounds.
structing their path in the name of dental hygiene.
In any case, I’d just rather not be looked at.
As they sidestep me and I brush away, where
Maybe this position isn’t exactly compromising,
1. Greetings, traditionally in the form of a bow
Yet somehow, I manage a brilliantly on-target, most ladylike spit that arcs perfectly into the drain. No splash, no sound. A real 10-out-of-10, standing-ovation, Olympic-level spit.
Gabrielle Nygaard is a 2013-2014 ETA at Jeonggwang Middle School in Gwangju.
fledged audience to witness me fumble this deceptively ordinary task.
2. In reference to Jeonggwang Middle School
41
ODE SUBURBAN KOREA to
Josephine Reece Before we loved each other we loved the
stance, would choose to love this city fueled on
neath the cloudy blossoms. A troupe of children
flutter brightly against the gray sky. The men with
mountain. (When traveling to a new place how can
the ghost of over-eager expansion? Here the gap-
is singing in a makeshift amphitheater. My host
their food carts struggle to set up umbrellas in
you guess what will grip your heart?) Our moun-
ing eyes of unfinished apartments stare out across
mother and I swing our arms; we march our feet.
the rising wind. My host mother and I don’t share
tain rests on the skirts of downtown, hemmed by
the pepper fields and trash-compacting facilities.
We take candy from the woman advertising a new
what we wrote. As we turn to go I have already
a lake and a river of cherry trees. My host mother
Here the ancient Nakdong River weaves itself
restaurant and leave her flyers in a bush. We buy
forgotten which paper was mine. Together they
and I walk here once, maybe twice a week. There
through a labyrinth of factories. Damp air carries
ppeong-twigi and wait impatiently for our bag to fill.
cling to the branch, indistinguishable now from
is not much to say on the mountain, but words
chemical scents past our school all day. Yet who
Ppeong, ppeong, ppeong. Next to the ppeong-twigi cart
one another. Two papers on a branch; two people
carry more gravity. They drop and settle like
can help but love waking up on a sun-sick morn-
is a man dressed as a belly dancer singing trot and
on the path. The rain is coming down harder now.
stones kicked into the water — invisible later, even
ing to find that the pumpkin vine on your neigh-
selling dry rice-cakes. “야 야 야 내나이가 어때
Throwing our jackets over our heads, my host
to ourselves. The mountain in turn has settled into
bor’s roof has borne fruit?
서 / 사랑에 나이가 있나요 ,” he sings. The rain
mother and I run to the car. With the rain outside,
is starting — a drop hits my nose, hits the children
the car’s shivering darkness feels like a pocket of
who have stopped singing, hits the couples try-
air in the deep sea. Cherry trees slide by, ghostly in
ing to shelter their tripods — but the man doesn’t
the stark illumination of the headlights. Stopped
care. He looks as if he could sing forever, slowly
at an intersection I become aware of Geumosan.
swaying his shoulders from side to side.
It is on our left, haltingly illuminated by the pass-
behind my mother and me.
3
4
the city. It is there behind each street, each building, each man, each woman, each child and even
2
“What is special about Gumi?” I ask my students. “Gumi has Geumosan ,” one replies. 1
My host mother has lived in Gumi her entire life. She told me once that during college she
In the early spring I walk with my host moth-
moved to the nearest big city, but “I missed my
er down the lane of cherry blossoms leading to
As we grow older we talk about “putting down
ing cars. I watch for a moment as sections of rock
town.” She was homesick by a 40-minute train
Geumosan’s base. It rained last night and will rain
roots.” Roots tie you down. Yet roots have a pur-
face are revealed and disappear. Then the light
ride, homesick for a town where, my students tell
again soon. We can feel it in the damp air and the
pose; they are always searching, always thirsty. To
changes and together my host mother and I turn,
me, “Nothing is special.” For their speaking test
soft chemical scent it carries from the industrial
live in a place is to become tangled, is to grow.
keeping Geumosan behind us through the night.
in the fall, I asked my students, “What is special
sector to the south. Still, the park is full of people.
Without even realizing it, I was putting down
about Gumi?” Nothing, most replied. In subur-
This time of year work ends early, or, work does
roots in Gumi. Little tendrils tying me to a place
ban Korea, status is measured by the number of
not end early but everyone is on holiday. I won-
and people of whom I knew nothing except that
Caffé Benes your town holds. If you know the an-
der how it feels to see the cherry blossoms year
we were together.
swer by heart then your town is “nothing special.”
after year; even my host mother is suddenly young
Before we leave the park my host mother and I
Sometimes I agree with them. Who, for in-
among the flowers. Couples with tripods pose be-
tie our wishes to a tree. The flimsy colored papers
1. Geumo Mountain
Josephine Reece is a 2013-2014 ETA at Gumi Shinpyeong Middle School in Gumi, Gyeongsangbuk-do.
2. A puffed rice crisp, it gets its name from the sound it makes (ppeong!) as it pops out of the machine. 3. Named after the two-beat “fox-trot,” trot is the earliest form of Korean pop music. 2. “Hey, hey, hey, what’s wrong with my age / Is there an age for love?” from singer Oh Seung Geun’s “내나이가 어때서.”
43
“Summer” Sophia Zhang
The music had been missing from my life for
smile and clap.
a while. It faded sometime during college. Like
“I don’t want to go to high school,” she says,
many things, it happened without explanation, and
when the movers leave and things quiet down. We
I didn’t notice the difference until years later.
are sitting side by side on the piano bench.
Summer days: an apartment filled with sun-
“Can you play ‘Summer’?” I ask. I forget where
shine, purple globe grapes and the piercing silver
I first heard the melody, but it’s one of my favorites.
of flute. From the balcony, we had a full view of
“Yes!” She takes out the sheet music and her
the Gyeongsan River. Kyung Eun always left the door to her room open. “Hi! Have nice day!” she would greet me brightly, then reposition her flute
hands glide over the black and white keys. As I listen, happiness wells in me — the sort that only music can inspire.
and turn back to the sheet music in front of her.
“I love this song so much.”
She’d just begun Francois Devienne’s Concerto
“I teach you, very easy.”
No. 7 in E minor. The notes were fluttery, new.
She places my hands over the keys and rests her
Those days, the apartment was rarely silent.
own an octave higher. She plays and I copy. When I
The backdrop of flute hung over our lives. As the
stumble, she corrects me gently. “Very good!” She
season waned, the notes grew brighter, more con-
beams when I manage three bars without messing up.
fident. They captured the sweetness of summer. At
“You play very well.”
school, I asked Kyung Eun and her classmates if they were excited to start high school next spring.
The next morning, Kyung Eun is not at break-
“No…”
fast. I find out from my host mom that she left
“Why not?”
for school over an hour ago. She does not return
“High school very busy, always work.”
for dinner either. Even after I’ve washed up and
beneath her eyes. She has gained a bit of weight
stand. I glance at the title. J. Demesseman’s Sixième
from eating out every day. “I miss you,” I manage
Solo de Concert. She does a few scales and then
to say right before she slips out the door.
brings the silver instrument to her lips. The song
Around late March, my host mom has to go to
is much more difficult than the last. It is incredibly
a parent-teacher conference and takes me with her.
fast and full of trills. It is impressive, but not pretty
She drops me off in front of a tonkatsu restaurant
like the Francois Devienne piece.
a few blocks from the school. Kyung Eun appears
When my host mom comes by around 7 p.m.
next to me, holding an umbrella over my head. “So-
to pick me up, I turn to Kyung Eun. “Please come
phia! Come, we have dinner!” She links her arm
home with us.”
through mine and ushers me inside. I blink, still not quite believing it’s her I’m seeing. “There 10 flutists in my grade. All more expe-
Eventually, it stops raining. A Wednesday. I am
rience than me. So I have to practice very hard,”
the first one home. I put my things away and step
Kyung Eun tells me over our fried pork cutlets and
into the empty living room. Outside, green shoots
unlimited Coke refills. After we pay, she brings me
push out of the damp ground. The soft pink of
to her practice room.
cherry blossoms has begun to spread across the
There is a small central area and a bathroom
I think I hear the sound of someone’s flute play-
two rows of soundproof rooms. Kyung Eun
ing. I stand still, and listen. But it is just the silence
knocks on each one and introduces me to the
playing tricks on me. Outside, the soft murmuring of
classmate who plays oboe, the classmate who plays
traffic ripples the stillness. I sit down on the piano
cello, the classmate who plays violin. Finally, we ar-
bench, and raise the slightly dusty lid. The first notes of “Summer” fill the apartment.
that brushes her ankles, white blouse, and double-
Once, I catch Kyung Eun just as she is about to
breasted maroon suit. She spins around, and I
leave for school. For the first time, there are bags
Kyung Eun rearranges the sheet music on the
It’s strange — leaving for two months in the
An entire week passes. I keep expecting to hear
winter and coming back to find the Gyeongsan
the sound of Kyung Eun’s flute, but there is only
River missing, replaced with a view of gray con-
silence. In the living room, the piano lid remains
crete. I’m standing in a foreign apartment. Movers
shut. It rains on and off. I leave my umbrella in the
and sawdust everywhere. Kyung Eun is model-
teachers’ office and walk slowly down the wet, gray
ing her new art high school uniform: a black skirt
streets of Daegu.
bare branches.
with a showerhead. Down a wooden hallway are
rive at her room. It is about the size of a medium closet. There is enough space for a small armchair and Kyung Eun’s music stand. A pillow and duvet are spread against the windowless wall. Beneath the duvet is an electric blanket that’s currently unplugged. So this is where she comes to every day after school and stays late into the night. This is where she spends her weekends, where she remains instead of coming home. “Can I hear the new song you’re playing?” “Okay.”
climbed into bed, she still does not come home.
She sighs. “I want to, but I have to stay practice.”
They are fluttery, new. The afternoon sun warms my back. Slowly, happiness wells in me – the sort that only music can inspire.
Sophia Zhang is a 2013-2014 ETA at Nobyeon Middle School in Daegu.
45
The Provider. Kristen Bialik. Jindo Sea Parting Festival, Jindo
Oysters. Judy Her. Seocheon
Bridge On Up. Rachel Lim. Daedunsan
47
4.3 “14,382 killed.”
to the Jeju narrative and fit amongst the geologic
“Persecution of ordinary farmers.”
formations, diving women and biting gusts of salt-
“Careful government cover-up.”
infused air that Jeju is known for today.
“Sixty years in exile.”
The answers came when I least expected it. As
These are just some of the phrases my co-
I reached across the dinner table to dip a crackling
teacher used when I first learned about the 4.3
piece of horsemeat in gochujang1 – a Jeju specialty – at
Massacre. In the face of Jeju’s dark past, I strug-
a family gathering, I remember hearing “4월3일2.”
gled to rationalize that the island known as the
Wanting to reaffirm that my elementary Korean
Hawaii of Korea, a romantic honeymoon destina-
language skills had not deceived me, I raced to the
tion and weekend get-away from caffeine-driven,
calendar on the wall. My finger hovered over the
workaholic Seoul, was ravaged by a bloody con-
previous Thursday, the ominous date of the Jeju
flict pre-dating the Korean War.
Massacre. My entire extended host family nodded
During the post-colonial turmoil and the sub-
Spring at the Naval Base. Andrew Cheng. Jinhae
Marissa Lynn
in unison.
sequent division of the Korean Peninsula, Jeju
“Sixty-four years,” stammered a great aunt. “Sixty-
was branded a “Red Island.” The U.S. military dis-
four years in Japan. Jeju was my home but I couldn’t
patched police and youth troops called the seochung
return out of fear of imprisonment or death.”
to suppress strikes and perceived communist ac-
Between 1947 and 1954, many people fled to
tivity across the island. The troops terrorized and
Japan to escape the violence in Jeju. My host aunt
tortured Jeju civilians. On the morning of April
was among those who sought sanctuary abroad.
3, 1948, members of the Namro Party rose up
Unable to return to Korea or obtain Japanese citi-
against the brutality, initiating an era of violence.
zenship, she has been living country-less for over
The forests around Hallasan, Jeju’s famed volcanic
60 years. Beginning in the early 2000s with Presi-
peak, became a battleground between the seochung
dent Roh Moo-Hyun’s apology to the Jeju people,
and leftist groups. After learning that the major-
she has made a yearly pilgrimage to Jeju to mark
ity of casualties were Jeju people with no political
the tragic anniversary of her flight. Hopefully it’s
affiliations, I was interested to see how the events
partially cathartic to return to see the beautiful
that took place between 1947 and 1954 contribute
cherry blossoms, symbolic of new beginnings,
1. A pungent fermented Korean condiment made from red chili, glutinous rice, fermented soybeans, and salt 2. April 3 in Korean
49
“
To the sons and daughters of Jeju lost and never found. You are not forgotten.
”
blooming around the 4.3 Memorial near her fam-
in the rain-soaked air. Stopping in front of the
ily home and attend the annual memorial services.
metal frame of a tree with colorful paper leaves
This year was especially significant as the South
for visitors to leave their impressions, I scribbled
Korean government finally recognized 4.3 as a
a quick message:
national memorial day after 66 years of blindness and disregard. But memorials, government rec-
To the sons and daughters of Jeju lost and never found. You are not forgotten.
ognition and truth commissions will never fully
I received a quick nod from my co-teacher as I
compensate for the 66 years of family gatherings
placed my note on a low-hanging branch of the tree.
she has missed.
She announced in an emotionless voice, “It’s time to
My host family is fortunate — separation
go, Marissa.” I knew that this was the same stalwart
is better than lingering uncertainty. Many Jeju
demeanor that Jeju people have projected for the
people will never know what happened to their
past 66 years, yet that nod contained a hint of some-
loved ones. Countless fathers and grandfathers,
thing else. It was subtle, but a dose of appreciation
contradictory nature of these names is a result of
sleep peacefully in the corner, their bedtime long
the majority of which were farmers with no po-
and healing came from sharing a family burden.
the 50-year government cover-up and the fierce
since passed. We have a long drive ahead of us.
repression of information related to the event.
The sinuous 516 road which passes over Hallasan
litical agendas or violent motives, were lost in the
View from the Samgumburi Crater. Laura Ahn. Jeju
struggle. 3,429 tombstones dot the hillside beside
For many Jeju people, the 4.3 Massacre is a
But now that the dead have been tallied and the
and connects Jeju City and Seogwipo is dangerous
the 4.3 Memorial marking the 3,429 victims that
historical burden — a hardship borne amongst
government recognizes 4.3 as a national memorial
late at night, but we are not ready to leave just yet.
were never found .
the survivors and descendants. It will remain a
day, we should call it what it was: a massacre.
Each moment is precious. One night a year is all
3
“One night he didn’t come home,” my Ful-
burden until the incident is given a historical defi-
bright co-teacher stated as casually as if she was
nition. While historians have worked to discern
With the word “massacre” in mind, I return
describing cooking dinner. “My mother remarried
the seeds of the conflict, a large tombstone lack-
to that crowded kitchen filled with members of
and hardly mentioned it.”
ing an inscription at the entrance of the 4.3 Me-
my host family gathered to say goodbye. These
As we walked around the 4.3 Memorial on a
morial reminds us of the ambiguity surrounding
are the survivors. This is what it means to share
drizzly Sunday morning, both of us knew that
the event. “Massacre,” “incident,” “uprising” and
a tragic history. The clock ticks loudly on the wall
one of the nameless tombstones belonged to him.
“violent counter-insurgency” have all been used to
announcing the passing of yet another hour that
Neither one of us spoke, but the truth hung heavy
describe the years between 1947 and 1954. The
no one seems to recognize. The young children
3. Jeju 4.3 Peace Park, www.jeju43peace.or.kr
we have.
Marissa Lynn is a 2013-2014 ETA at Seogwipo Middle School in Seogwipo, Jeju-do.
51
Lost in Time and Space. Andrew Cheng. Tongyeong
53
the
LOTUS FLOWER
BLOOMS
MUD
in
Ginger Whitesell Five. In one year. Five people taken from
of oneness, feeling no distinction between my self
Even the most ancient past thrives through time.
uncle, I went to the temple as usual. I felt heavy
my life after I removed myself from theirs on a
and the environment. Through mindful practice
Awesome dragons encircle pillars with the duty of
with emotion. I was desperate for the dharma
temporary excursion across the Pacific. Five bod-
and meditation, I learned to escape the boundar-
enlightened protectors of the temple, safeguard-
hall2, to seek solace in the evening ceremony. I
ies, whose shared blood no longer flows through
ies of my freckled body, long limbs made longer
ing ideas of peace. The temples were exquisitely
slipped my shoes off outside and entered, intense-
warm veins. Five familiar embraces I won’t hold
as my mind stretched them to infinity. I had my
decorated yet harmonious with the surrounding
ly aware of how my misery filled the room. I went
when I get home — or ever — again. Five people
first comprehensions of the expanse of the uni-
landscape. My desire to explore the religion and
through the bowing motions and evening chant,
whose smiles I counted on at holidays and in be-
verse and how I could fill it with my mind and self.
philosophy they served intensified.
struggling to contain my grief and focus on the
tween, replaced forevermore by the bittersweet
Later, in Korea, in a passionate discussion with my
A close friend told me about an English-
service. Once it ended, I quickly sat cross-legged,
recounts of favorite memories.
weekly philosophy group we drew scientific paral-
speaking Buddhist nun at a temple she had come
anticipating the nun’s three signifying claps for the
Losing a family member is hard. And when I
lels with reincarnation. For the first time, I consid-
across one afternoon, modestly tucked between
meditation to begin.
left for Korea in July of 2012, I never fathomed it
ered the idea of rebirth seriously. Buddhist philos-
tangerine farms off a dirt road in a rural area of
Immediately, my awareness left my body and
would happen five times over. In the course of a
ophy had begun to take root in my mind, but like
Jeju City. I began attending an evening ceremony
the room I occupied. My mind flooded with ques-
little over a year, I would be torn apart, with bits
a lotus seed , it remained hidden beneath murky
and meditation practice at the temple each week.
tions welling up from my frustration and sadness
of my heart floating across the large pond sepa-
waters, not yet ready to blossom from the mud.
As time passed, the rituals became more familiar,
of this most recent death. Where was my uncle?
1
rating me from my loved ones. The news of each
When I first came to Korea, temples were a
and my relationship with the nun grew more in-
death weighed down on me, disturbing my bal-
novelty. Seeing a new one often reminded me that
timate. I found myself wanting more, my mind
anced buoyancy. Eventually I was drowning in tur-
I was far from home. But as time passed and Ko-
seeking to deeply understand Buddhism and its
bid waters with no light guiding me to resurface.
rea became more familiar, the Buddhist temples
idyllic teachings.
Would I escape this anguish? Or would I continue
that sprinkle the Korean landscape went from be-
Then I got an email from my mom that made
to sink, inundated by my muck of despair?
ing a source of reticent wonder to one of com-
me sink. My great uncle was dying. My godfather,
Long before Korea and the heart-wrenching
fort. Their steep-sloped roofs, curving up into
the humble, gentle man who spent his life shower-
state, his mind?
news from back home, I found myself drawn to
small peaks at each corner, became gentle smiles
ing others with unconditional love and generosity,
Would we ever meet again? Where?
Buddhist philosophy. Though I was Catholic-born
visible from a distance. The carved undersides of
wouldn’t live through the night. And, like the other
When?
and later turned agnostic, the serenity I felt from
the wooden rooftops blanketed in complex green-
deaths in my family that had already occurred while I
Why was I here?
Buddhism always appealed to me. As a dedicated
hued patterns interlaced with bright blue and red,
was overseas, I wouldn’t be there for a last goodbye.
yogi in college, I experienced my first sensations
a vivid testament to the effort put forth in upkeep.
The Wednesday after the death of my great
1. Lotus flowers grow in muddy water. In Buddhism, a lotus flower symbolizes a transcendence from attachment and human experience to a state of purity and enlightenment.
Why did he have to die while I was away? Was my family okay? Why didn’t I spend more time with him while I was home? What would become of his body, his
Why was I so alone? I grew frantic for answers. I knew my mind
2. A room for Buddhist worship and religious services
55
“
I live presently. I live. I remind myself that life is a mutually shared experience. When loneliness begins to press close, I remember that distance between myself and others is irrelevant. There are ways to hug someone across an ocean.
Sand Painting, with Buddhas. Neal Singleton. Yakcheonsa, Seogwipo
”
should be calm. Meditative. One. But over-
growth that all experience. With the nun’s three
wrought and distressed, these questions reverber-
concluding claps, I returned to the dharma hall.
ated throughout my mind.
I eased out of my meditation and into my body
The dharma hall and others in it were forgot-
and surroundings, realizing that an acceptance of
ten. My senses lost significance. I didn’t feel the
my current circumstances would lead to strength,
cushion beneath me on the polished wood floor, I
serenity and fulfillment.
drew nothing from the intricately carved wooden
Buddhism continues to be a source of com-
shrine before me and I didn’t hear the birds out-
fort and great learning, and I refer to its teachings
side begin their evening tune. I don’t even know if
in times of happiness, sadness and stress. I live
I breathed. Then suddenly, a glorious vision filled
presently. I live. I remind myself that life is a mu-
my dark mind.
tually shared experience. When loneliness begins
With a gentle glow, I saw my uncle and me in
to press close, I remember that distance between
a wonderful whirling: a yin yang of our souls, our
myself and others is irrelevant. There are ways to
minds, our spirits, holding one another. We had al-
hug someone across an ocean. I feel no absence
ways been together and forever would be. There was
of my uncle or other loved ones who have passed;
no distinct separation between him and me, or any-
their essence fills this earth and its people just as
thing. Just as he held my heart, and just as I grasped
I do. While I cannot alter the hardships I’ve en-
his, I grabbed hold of every thing in this universe.
dured over this last year, I can be more fulfilled
Outside observers might have noted a slight change in my facial expression. Perhaps I sat up straighter than the others in the temple. In that moment, I reached a profound spiritual homeo-
by my connectedness with others through space and time. My lotus, risen unsullied from muddy waters, unfolds gingerly in the sun.
stasis, a true feeling of oneness. I burst with my connection to the universe — my being outstretched, blanketing my surroundings like the warm rays of the sun. Illuminated with this great
Ginger Whitesell is a 2012-2014 ETA at Jeju Jungang Girls’ High School in Jeju City, Jeju-do.
faith, I understood that death is not a final stage, but rather a brief stop in a continual process of
57
MY KOREAN
MUSICAL Jenna Gibson
My life now couldn’t be more different from
of literally hundreds of tracks in the “newly add-
my Korean life — I’ve gone from teacher back to
ed” section of my iTunes after a fellow ETA gave
student, and I’m far more likely to spend my week-
me my first taste of K-pop. I didn’t realize un-
end in a study room than on a mugunghwa . But still,
til the next morning that one of the songs I had
no matter where I am, when my iTunes shuffles to
heard on shuffle was solidly stuck in my head. For
a certain song, I am instantly back there. One note
the next week straight, I had TOP’s gravelly rap
and I can vividly remember a month in Seoul, a
introduction streaming through my head, whether
weekend in Busan, a walk home from school. My
my earphones were in at the time or not.
1
Korean life, captured in moments, recalled by the music that accompanied them:
EXO – “What is Love” Four people, two bunk beds and about three
Big Bang – “Cafe” It had been on loop for three days now as I
Seoul living literally on top of each other, ondol
2
dashed through the claustrophobic gray stone
cranked up and music blasting from laptop speak-
hallways of Jungwon University. On the long jog
ers nearly 24/7. I was starting to actually under-
down the 10 flights of stairs from my room to
stand the songs too, each moment of clarity like a
down a pile of wonderfully old kimchi and, if I
lightning strike. The winter Korean classes seemed
was lucky, an oddly sweet egg sandwich. In the
to be paying off.
brief break between lectures as I rushed to grab
One roommate always said it was the best
red bean bread from the convenience store. In the
month of our grant year. Crammed into that tiny
late afternoon as I tried to wrap my tongue around
hostel room, she said, “Every day I went to bed
the twisted syllables of basic Korean I had learned
laughing and every day I woke up laughing.” May-
that day.
be not so much on the days when an 8 a.m. bowl
I didn’t understand a single word, even after
of cereal filled the whole room with a crunching
looking up the lyrics and dutifully copying down
noise louder than a thunderstorm. But we made up
each line in awkwardly precise hangeul.
for that in “Sherlock” marathons and kalguksu3 and
I had discovered “Cafe” by accident, just one
우리 둘이. Katelyn Hemmeke. Pohang
square feet of floor space. We spent February in
turning our little room into a makeshift noraebang4.
1. One of South Korea’s trains 2. Floor heating 3. Noodle soup 4. Karaoke room
59
Super Junior – “언젠가는5”
to follow but not too simple. Of course my first
“어디로 가는지 아무도 모르지만6 …” It
thought was to give them some Backstreet Boys
was true. We didn’t know where we were all going.
— a throwback that would certainly make them
It was the end of our first year in Korea, and half
unique in a competition that was sure to be full
of us were splitting off, returning back to a land
of over-played tracks by Adele and Maroon 5. But
where communication came easily, where public
they wanted something newer, something brighter
transportation was a little more limiting and where
(I maintain that nothing is brighter than Brian’s
a good sauna scrubdown was a mere fantasy.
smile, but I wasn’t going to argue with a group of
So we celebrated those leaving and those stay-
teenage girls about the merits of 90s pop).
ing with Gwangalli Bridge in the background.
So I jumped around YouTube, finally making
We waded into the East Sea at midnight, cack-
it to the earworm of the fall. And my girls were
ling when a rogue wave left a few of our group
immediately hooked, thanks in part to the hunky
waist-high in water. We created a makeshift picnic,
boy next door who starred in the music video.
forgetting a bottle opener and enlisting the help
And so began weeks of after-school practices,
of a group of ajusshis 7 to open our wine with a
trying to hit every note and get every word right
chopstick. We stumbled back to our hotel at a not-
(“Teacher, what is ‘foresight??’”). But the grins on
so-decent hour in a not-so-decent state, wailing
the girls’ faces when they won the regional compe-
dramatically and fake sobbing along with the lyr-
tition was certainly worth every night that I went
ics: “언젠가는 우리 다시 만나리~~~~~8”
too few mattresses, was that song.
last few hours before saying goodbye to two years
forest and beautiful views.
and to many friends, watching Korean celebrities
We also assumed it would have a place to stay
the night. And maybe a restaurant or two. Instead, we ended up staying in a room rented
act out a perfectly translated adaptation of one of the most quintessentially American stories there is: “High School Musical.”
out by a quiet old couple, cramming two of us into
Last day in Seoul checklist:
a space completely filled by a twin bed. And the
□ Watch “High School Musical” in Korean (check)
only food on the island was the cup ramyeon sold
□ Sit less than 10 feet away from no fewer than four
out of someone’s garage at a 200 percent markup.
members of your favorite K-pop group (check)
But once we started hiking, power-walking up
□ Take a few too many “final” selcas 10 (check) □ Eat an extra serving of galbi 11 at 2 a.m. (check)
though it was long past summer on the mainland,
□ Watch a fellow ETA vehemently dispute baggage
the views were unforgettable — fog-encrusted is-
weight limits with an Incheon clerk at 6 a.m. (check)
to bed with Carly’s perky voice ringing in my ears.
lands breaking through an endless plane of water.
□ Say goodbye (check)
Shinhwa – “This Love”
tiny bed, stuffing it and the only bottle of makke-
We only had a few weekends left, time enough for one more trip. The criteria were simple: 1)
Carly Rae Jepsen – “Call Me Maybe”
”
western coast, was supposed to have an evergreen
the island to cut the chill that lingered there even
All we seemed to know at that time, shuffling around the motel floor to fit too many people on
“
All we seemed to know at that time, shuffling around the motel floor to fit too many people on too few mattresses, was that song.
somewhere outdoors, 2) somewhere I could take
I made a huge mistake.
good pictures and 3) somewhere tourists would
My girls had asked for some song recom-
not normally go.
mendations for an English speaking competi-
Well, we certainly hit the last one, at least.
tion — something upbeat but not too fast, easy
Oeyeondo, one of the farthest islands off Korea’s
5. “Someday” 6. “But no one knows where we’re going…” 7. Middle-aged men 8. “Whenever we will meet again;” the “~” is used to indicate drawn-out sound.
That night we stole the comforter from our oli 9 left at the garage mart into my backpack. We
Jenna Gibson was a 2011-2013 ETA at Cheonan
watched the sun set over the ocean, content with that
Ohsung Middle School in Cheonan. She is now pursuing
one cliché in our otherwise less-than-ordinary trip, as
her master’s degree at Georgetown University’s School of
Shinhwa’s latest blasted through shared headphones.
Foreign Service.
High School Musical – “We’re All in This Together” Irony is spending your last night in Korea, the
9. Korean rice wine 10. Short for “self-camera,” or taking a picture of yourself 11. Grilled meat
61
HERE IN
OHIO
Yoon-Chan Kim
My colleague pops her head into my office to
out platoon of proud and “true” Koreans, raised
ask if I’ve heard. It’s about a boat in Korea. My
and maligned by the same land that bore them.
mind skips a beat. I don’t think about boats very
They spent the last six months forging a class
often. I furrow my brows: No, I don’t know. A
identity, so who was I to charge in with a pretense
boat with hundreds sank off the western coast.
for pedagogy? The silence broods like when former lovers meet.
When I hear anything related to Korea, scenes
Ten minutes later, I’m standing outside with a
from childhood surface as pictures or short video
student unafraid to voice his frustration. He inter-
clips: Mom guffaws over something Grandma
rogates me, trying to decode why someone with a
says; I race up mahogany stairs to look at Grand-
face like mine and a name like mine would act as if
pa’s vintage stamps; my brother and I watch our
he doesn’t know the mother tongue. His words fly
cousins fight; I glide on ice toward my imaginary
at me, and I can’t grasp whether they are of vigor
Olympic gold in speed skating. All these whir by,
or venom. My inexperience sends him away to the
like scenes from an old film projector.
discipline office, belying his sincerity and confirm-
Then I arrive at a second set of scenes. They
ing my ignorance. The morning haze cuts through
feel a bit more urgent because they happened
metal bars on windows and shows his sulking
more recently.
shoulders bobbing away in the distance.
My co-teacher flashes a smile and wishes me luck. He turns his back, walks out of the class-
I think I feel an inch more comfortable. I
room and shuts the door behind him. Please wel-
know where the clean bathrooms are and where
come the new English teacher from America on
to go for lunch. I think I can maybe do this for
his first day at this all-boys high school famous for
the next year. Until I catch a glimpse of the nudity.
its delinquency.
(top) Over the Hill. Neal Singleton. Seoul (bottom) Hello Spring. Neal Singleton. Gagweonsa, Cheonan
A month passes.
He thought I wouldn’t notice, or it would be
The silence sits, awkward and uncomfortable.
funny, or both. Yes, it’s very hot, so I understand
Forty variations on my Korean face look back at
it’s hard to focus. The fans are on and the windows
me with wonder, fascination, indifference and dis-
are open though, so let’s just do the best we can.
trust. I stand as the “American” intruding with a
Yes of course, we’re all boys here, so you can take
foreign tongue. They stand together like a worn-
your uniform jackets off. But you just took all of
63
your clothes off while sitting in your chair. I stop
ment feels a bit safer. I walk back to the teachers’
this symphony, that poem and the painting by
having said I love you enough, wondering if you
the lesson; I stop mid-sentence. The whole class
lounge past familiar faces who have made me feel
Monet. Love can be effortless. We know it when
ever did enough, and doubting everything you
turns to witness the silence, warm and sticky, like
more welcome: the history teacher who tells me
we feel it, so we accept it without question.
ever believed in. It’s a love that decimates you,
the bullets on my forehead. All eyes on him, then
about his travels, the physics teacher who tells me
I recall this in the scenes with my students.
then sits on what’s left with the weight of a planet.
all eyes on me. Now we wait for the silence to
about his daughters and the ethics teacher who
One of them beams after learning an American
Now, I claim no authority over these issues.
break. But of course it doesn’t break. It waits. It
tells me nothing. I arrive at my desk and smile at
idiom. Another explodes with laughter seeing
When I tell you today that I loved 600 students, I
waits with a grin, twisted and knowing.
the English teachers who tell me more about the
that the mask fits the giant. The student who in-
speak of a love more complex than I once imag-
Your move, Kim Teacher.
students we teach: their families, trials, compas-
terrogated me tries to hide his smile. Little Napo-
ined. It’s a love that feels obscure and heavy. It
I send him outside and he takes his clothes
sion and courage.
leon opens up in a rare moment of honesty and
feels so vast and infinite. It forces me to grapple
Behind the student who interrogated me that
shares with me his worries, hopes and dreams
with things I don’t really want to, like seeing the
Another month passes.
first day slouches a home broken from abuse and
before retreating once more to join his breth-
students I adore in that scene off the western
In the back, the class clown wields a wand at
neglect. Behind the student who took off all his
ren. This love was always simple: deep, yes, but
coast. It pains me because I can still see the 40
his group. Up in front, the dynamite nicknamed
clothes lives a family of nine in a two-bedroom
simple. I never questioned it. It was everywhere,
puzzled faces from that first day of class, feel that
Napoleon dances around in his tiara. Today is
apartment. Behind the class clown wielding the
vital and constant. It lit the hallways and electri-
twisted silence, and hear the entire class laugh. I
Halloween, and with the weather a bit cooler and
wand at his group waits a disabled younger sister
fied the air. You could feel it pulse even when
don’t want to consider something so horrifying. I
the foliage a bit brighter, it seems like a good day
who has inspired him to become a doctor. Be-
school was out.
don’t want to feel like I just lost hundreds of my
to put on some costumes and play some games.
hind the dynamite dancing in his tiara looms a
But ever since my colleague popped her head
own. Yet this kind of love demands that I wrestle
The gentle giant — six-foot-five and rotund
father whose financial success has alienated him
into my office, I have been wondering if this kind
with such ugly things. It demands that I wrestle
enough to be either an American football player
from his son. Behind the gentle giant stands a
of love suffices. After all, it’s easy. It’s easy to see,
with things like loss and regret, and sometimes I
or a bear — lumbers forward to the front of the
single mother working at two restaurants day and
easy to grasp, easy to feel. We don’t ever have to
feel like I just don’t stand a chance. I don’t know
class. With an endearing smile and the respect of
night just to support her son’s dream of becom-
think about this kind of love. But I’ve been won-
how to “collect” myself or “pick up the pieces”
the entire school, he takes the black mask every-
ing a professor of Korean history.
dering if there is a deeper and more complicated
or “move on” or “come to peace.” And I’m not
kind of love, the kind we neither know how to
even a parent. I never even taught them.
with him. The silence leaves, but the grin stays.
one dared him to try on. I’ll bet you candy money
These were just five of the 600 students I
it won’t fit his head. He silences the crowd, picks
taught. These were just five of the 600 students
up the mask and makes us all witnesses. Voilà. The
I loved.
talk about nor want to talk about.
But maybe that’s exactly the point. Maybe I
I mean the kind of love that has a really dark
should feel the weight of a planet. Maybe I should
side to it. I mean the harrowing stuff, the stuff
wrestle with ugly things like loss and regret. May-
that kicks you in the gut when you hear hundreds
be I should feel like I don’t stand a chance, because
When I hear someone say anything about love,
have drowned in a senseless tragedy, and then
when I tell you today that I loved 600 students,
The bell rings, and I walk out beaming. The
I often think that we believe love should come to
keeps its foot there long after you cry mercy. It’s
my love for them feels so vast and infinite, like the
art of pedagogy still eludes me, but the environ-
us easily. I love your smile, I love the sunset. I love
the kind of love that leaves you regretting not
ocean or a night sky dripping with stars.
class explodes with laughter. Cheers, shouts and
More than 300 students were on that boat.
pure delight rain, transforming a lesson on culture into a holy riot. I laugh like I haven’t in months.
“
Maybe I should feel the weight of a planet. Maybe I should wrestle with ugly things like loss and regret. Maybe I should feel like I don’t stand a chance, because when I tell you today that I loved 600 students, my love for them feels so vast and infinite, like the ocean or a night sky dripping with stars. 65
I have spent a lot of time in urban areas: Seoul
And when we look up
as a child, northern California in my teens and the City of Angels too. One thing they have in com-
they think we are looking back at them,
mon is that they are by the coast, so when you’re
which makes them lift their oars and fall silent
there, boats are never hard to come by. You see
and wait, like parents, for us to close our eyes.2 Shorebound. Neal Singleton. Phuket, Thailand
them bobbing along those sheets of blue. But here in Ohio, you really don’t see them
I look up at the vast blue and wonder who
much. Sure, the lakes are just north, but boats just
they are. Maybe they are parents, waiting for us
don’t grace this land-locked place. It’s hard to even
to fall asleep. Or maybe they are younger and a
think about them.
little less mature. Maybe they’re all together like
What you do get here, though, is a whole lot
a worn-out platoon, making fun of each other as
of sky. It stretches for miles, so when you whip
they row alongside a dozen other platoons. And
your head around, you get to see the whole ho-
maybe when they’re lingering in silence with their
rizon surround you. Rays from dawn and dusk
oars out of the water, they’re waiting for us to
stretch like runways.
close our eyes so they can paint stars in a vast and
I’ve met a lot of people under this sky, includ-
infinite night sky.
ing someone who introduced me to the works
Dawn or dusk, I see them always. I see them
of American poet Billy Collins. In his collection
working to build this beautiful scene. I hope they
“Questions about Angels,” Collins writes that
know it’s not always a bad thing that teachers have
those who have passed are:
eyes in the back of their heads.
…always looking down on us, they say, while we are putting on our shoes or making a
Yoon-Chan Kim was a 2010-2011 ETA at Young-
sandwich,
saeng High School in Jeonju. He now works in college ad-
they are looking down through the glass-bot-
missions in northeast Ohio.
tom boats of heaven as they row themselves slowly through eternity.1
1. Collins, Billy. “The Dead.” Sailing Alone Around the Room. Random House, 2001. 33. Print. 2. Collins 33
67
This photo: Buddha and Sky. Neal Singleton. Gagweonsa, Cheonan The Fulbright Korea Infusion EMAIL fulbright.infusion@gmail.com FULBRIGHT WEB http://fulbright.or.kr FACEBOOK /fulbrightkoreainfusion INSTAGRAM fulbrightkoreainfusion If you wish to contact Fulbright Korea, please email executive.assistant@fulbright.or.kr or call 82-2-3275-4000. The Fulbright Program aims to increase mutual understanding between the people of the United States and other countries through cultural and educational exchange. The Korean-American Educational Commission in Seoul, widely known as the Korea Fulbright Commission, is governed by a Board consisting of equal numbers of Koreans and Americans representing governmental, educational and private sectors. The board makes decisions on overall policies of the Fulbright Program in Korea. The Fulbright Commission is not responsible for opinions expressed in The Fulbright Korea Infusion by individual contributors nor do these in any way reflect official Fulbright Commission policy. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or in part without permission from the contributor and from the Korea Fulbright Commission. Published by Asia Korea Printing, Inc.