FASHION RESTAURANTS & VILL AS - BALI & SOUTHEAST ASIA ST YLE
Rp. 60.000
N O 13.4 MARCH - MAY '17
FASHION L A DO LCE V I TA
ROOMS
TRAVEL
FASHION
DINING
Karma Reef
Palm Cove
Franksland
Gueridon Grill
Aquila Phuket
Bhutan
Magali Pascal
The Chef 's Table
French Chateau
Philippines
The Offering
Coffee Shops
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E D I T I O N 1 3 . 4 M A R - M AY
Contents. 18
C H A R C H A R G UE R ID ON Live cooking at your table
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T H E C H E F’S TA BL E A fine dining adventure at Alila Seminyak
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OR BIT LU NA 2 Cosmic food in Seminyak
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26 S P E C IA L ITY FO O DS
VINA VE NT ISQUE RO Discover Chili’s best wine regions
BA L I BA R ISTA The latest outlets in Bali’s coffee scene
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An unlikely superfood awaits
K A R M A R E EF
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Beachside luxury on Gili Meno
M E N JA N G A N DY N ASTY R ES O RT
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Glamping in the best of Bali’s natural splendour
R E D E FIN IN G LU XURY The magnificence of the Aquila Villa in Thailand
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MA RVE LOU S MA L AYSIA Sepang Gold Coast’s Avani resort
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LU X UR IOU S T ROPICA L ST Y L E An exclusive Fiji villa
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C H IC & LUX U R IOUS An exclusive Parisian apartment
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C HATE AU L IFE A very French way of holidaying
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L E T THE HE A RT L E A D Ecstatic dancing in Ubud
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S HA D ES O F G R E E N A walk through Bali’s ancient rice paddies
L A D O L C E VITA Seminyak’s sweetest fashion
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French bohemian spirit
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F L A M B O U YA N T S E D U CTIO N
MA G A L I PASCA L
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T H E OFFE R ING A unique boutique
A L IVING D OL L Franksland fashion
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The delightful birds of paradise
M A G ICA L M YSTE RY TO U R
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The hidden Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan
ES CA P E TO PA RA D IS E
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Relaxing on white sand beaches in the Philippines
T U RTL E BAY TRA N Q U IL ITY
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At one with nature off the beaten track
HO M E AT THE COVE An idyllic escape in northern Queensland
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P T K ubu Dua M edi a J l. Pe tite nge t 12A, Ke rob oka n, B a li, I nd one sia Te l. +62 361 847 5457 | Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 ema il: e d itor@frvb a li.c om www.frvb a li.c om Di recto r Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphi cs C o o rdi nato r Te guh Ana nta (artwork@frvb a li.c om) P ho to g raphy Ad a m Ra syid Di stri buti o n Ii n I nd ra p utra , Ma d e , Dwi, Agung i nfo@frvb a li.c om Fi nance Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Mark eti ng Oc hy (oc hy@frvb a li.c om | sa le s@frvb a li.c om) A dmi ni strati o n T he re sia , Poojie , Swa n Co ntri buto rs Da vid Tra uts, Ka tie Truma n, Ve ronika K, Z ia Aussum, He rma n von Be r na d i, Ra c he l Love , Emma We stwa rd . S ubscri pti o n Ye a rly sub sc rip tion a va ila b le in I nd one sia - R up ia h 199,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvb a li.c om Se nd e - ma il to the a b ove for d e ta ils. Co nsul ti ng Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvb a li.c om)
Fashi o n Restaurants and Vi l l as Bal i mag azi ne i s an i ndependent, q uarterl y publ i cati o n. N ex t edi ti o n deadl i ne M ay 15, 2017
FRVBali FR V Ba li m a ga zin e is pr in te d u n de r lic e n se d tr a de m a r k . N o pa r t of th is m a ga zin e sh o u l d b e re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r. A ll r igh ts re se r ve d. A r tic le s re f le c t th e opin ion s of th e a u th or s, a n d n ot n e c e ssa r ily t h o s e of th e pu blish e r s. F R V Ba li m a ga zin e is distr ibu te d by; P T K u bu Du a M e dia , P e r iplu s Ja va Book s a n d P T I n doprom . Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .
FR V B ali Magaz ine
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E dit ion 13. 4
March - May ‘ 1 7
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E D I TOR’S NOT E FRV Bali – IT TAKES YOU PLACES
Nyepi is not far away, which heralds both the start of the Balinese New Year and as they say, the start to the dry season. It falls on March 28 this year. It’s a special time to be in Bali, maybe the best time of year to be on the island. I don’t want to explain much about it again and I can only suggest or maybe implore you to be here at that time and experience what it is all about for yourself at least once in your lifetime. There is really nothing quite like it. There is more information inside for the Nyepi novice. Bali keeps on becoming more popular, year in, year out. Last year’s arrival figures showed a staggering over 20% increase in numbers to the year before. One must keep in mind that without Chinese tourists those numbers would be in the negative but nevermind. I’m sure anyone who is
a fan of the island or lives here would know the reason why this island is so popular—with its beaches, mountains, ricefields, beautiful weather, beautiful people and incredible restaurants, villas, resorts and nightlife it’s a place on earth hard to beat. There is nowhere quite like it. As we come to the Balinese New Year, let’s all take a deep breath and exhale, being grateful that we have such a wonderful place to call home or to visit. Inside this edition, FRV features more outstanding articles on dining, accommodation and fashion. We also feature a couple of stories on interesting Bali activities like ecstatic dancing in Ubud, which has become very popular with the health-conscious party goers around the island. Bali Spirit Festival is also soon, where there is a lot of that style of entertainment going on too.
Also featured is trekking or just simply walking the paths of Jatiluwih in the hills and ricefields of Bali, which is another healthy way to pass your time on the island. FRV Bali travels to many parts of the world to bring you the luxury villas for this edition; namely Thailand, Malaysia, Fiji, Philippines, France and of course right here in Indonesia. Also an impressive line-up of getaway travel stories is inside featuring locations like Bhutan, again the Philippines, Australia and Raja Ampat in Indonesia’s east. We hope you will enjoy reading through this edition of FRV Bali magazine. If you have any comments please direct them to editor@frvbali. com and we wish you all the best for the coming Bali New Year.
F RV C O N T R I B U TO R S DAVID TRAUTS This English correspondent founded The Beat magazine and then the group’s flagship, FRV. He always enjoys new experiences and the freedom of the getaway – sometimes far, sometimes close, but always fun. Good food, good wine, good people and times are the essence of an enjoyable life—you don’t need many or much, it’s the quality that counts.
ERZA S.T. Erza ST writes for many Indonesian publications and is a regular bon-vivant in his home town of Jakarta. He has been the head honcho of the Indonesian Opera Society for many years and can be caught at many of the classical concerts around the country. He loves winter in European countries as much as he loves good food and conversation in the best restaurants in Jakarta.
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THOMAS JONES Travel writing is an admirable and important profession that takes a lot of dedication, hard work and a smidgen of luck to make it pay. Yet despite the hardships, Thomas sees it as a calling to take the opportunities that arise and share the lessons learned with the FRV community. This issue he’s taken to the sttreets of Tokyo to find that it’s not such an enigmatic city mission after all. A major encouragement to go visit.
SALVADOR B New Yorker, U.S.A., moved to Bali in nineteen eighty three, painter, writer, musician and song writer. Through the years he has been noted as a true renaissance man in that perspective. As a writer he has contributed many an articles on the life styles of Bali as well as interviews, openings, fashion and food reviews.
NICK WALTON Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.
VERONIKA K Veronika is not only a journalist, but also a professional mermaid and a travel junkie. Praguebased, she has been living life in flip-flops since 2008. If not on her laptop forging words, she can be found playing in the ocean or practicing her headstands. Vero’s hobbies are breakfast, lunch & dinner and writing about herself in the third person.
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Bits & Pieces NYEPI, DAY OF SILENCE @ ALILA SEMINYAK Nyepi Day, or Day of Silence, marks the Hindu New Year in the Balinese Saka calendar. Festivities begin on the eve of Nyepi Day when ‘ogoh ogoh’, giant statues that symbolise evil spirits, are paraded around the streets followed by Balinese gamelan musicians before being burnt to ashes in a cemetery. Nyepi Day itself is a day of purification and self-reflection, when no one is permitted to leave their home, spending the day in silence and meditation. The silence remains in absolute effect for 24 hours, this year from 6am on Tuesday, 28 March until 6am on Wednesday, 29 March. Special dispensation is granted to all hotels. However, in respect of this most important of local traditions.
Although guests are free to roam inside hotels and resorts, lighting in the public areas is switched off during the hours of darkness and must be subdued in rooms. Alila Seminyak is offering special package rates for Nyepi including; daily breakfast, room upgrades, spa treatments and lunch and dinner on Nyepi. Packages start from USD 590++ per night and is exclusive for Indonesia residents and KITAS holders and is valid for check-in on 27 March 2017 for a two-night stay. For further information and reservation, please contact us at seminyak@alilahotels.com or call +62 361 302 1888.
KU DE TA PERTH READY TO OPEN IN MARCH The riverside, Ku De Ta Perth is set to open in the Western Australian capital on March 16. After almost two years of preparation and construction the restaurant complex, featuring 270-degree views over the Swan River is set to become the most happening waterfront locale in the city of Perth. Ku De Ta Perth is part of a hospitality complex home also to The Point Bar and Grill, The Beaumonde Fraser Point Function Centre, roof top gardens and other urban cafes, restaurants, and wine bars. Boats will be able to moor at the complexes’ jetties which is sure to be a hit with the many boat owners plying the Swan River. Workers are scrambling to put the finishing touches on the sprawling restaurant that juts out 30 meters onto the river ahead of the gala, A-lister launch on March 16. See you there!
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Bits & Pieces AMANKILA CELEBRATES 25 YEARS WITH A YEAR OF CULTURAL SPECTACLE This year marks the 25th anniversary of the Amankila, Bali. The dramatic, hillside-hugging resort on the eastern shores of Bali has become not only one of the world’s most coveted and romantic destinations, but also an important part of the cultural fabric of the Karangasem Regency. Fittingly, Amankila has drawn upon the creative and artisanal traditions of the area to colour its celebratory agenda. On four dates during 2017; Easter, August and during the festive period, the hotel team along with local village performers will present a captivating 45-minute stage show, The Story of Indrakila, which uses song, dance and the traditional art of shadow puppetry known as
wang kulit to retell a tale from the great Hindu epic Mahabharata. Furthermore, there will be exhibitions of artisanal textile traditions of nearby villages. The Amankila kitchen will mark the anniversary year with the celebratory communal dining tradition of east Bali, megibung and the Indonesian colonial banquet inspired by the country’s multiple ethnic cuisines, rijsttafel, on the 25th of each month. Get involved by taking part in their anniversary Instagram competition using #Amankila25 for the chance to win a three night stay any of the Aman group’s Indonesian destitutions. Find out more at www.aman.com
AUSSIE ENTREPRENEUR OPENS HOT NEW BALI RESTAURANT - BIKINI Bikini is the latest dining venue from Aussie expat Adam McAsey and his 8 Degree Projects team, and is now open in Seminyak. Bikini fuses the urban flair of a New York warehouse with the energy and vibe of a Miami beach party. Luxe, decadent dining in a playful atmosphere. Bikini has been in the making for two years and McAsey is proud of bringing a “unique dining experience to the island”. Creative Culinary Director Jethro Vincent steers the menu vision for the group, using skills he honed while creating degustation menus at the esteemed Whare Kea Lodge in New Zealand, and Chef Kevin Chung brings over 15 years of experience in a five-star setting to the kitchen.
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Together they’ve come up with a menu which is, according to Vincent, “a fusion of what’s in season, what’s on trend and what I love to cook. We have broken it down to five groups and diners will be taken on a journey from mouthfuls to large plates with inventive cocktails to match”. The cocktail menu is handcrafted by award-winning Melbourne-based mixologist Max Hart. Bikini’s interior is sexy and sophisticated with a modern and energised playful aesthetic, featuring creative artworks. Check out more at www.ulookhotinbikini.com
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REPUBLIK 45’S CULINARY REVOLUTION REPUBLIK 45 recently unveiled their new Culinary Revolution concept. Culinary Revolution was developed to accommodate the diverse culinary requests on each table and within groups by offering a variety of Indonesian and European dishes, prepared to the highest standard for an excellent dining experience. Lunch, afternoon tea, and dinner are available. The restaurant is helmed by Head Chef Luca Masini, who grew up in Tuscany and has honed his skills in London, in Singapore at restaurants including Aura and Ilido, and in Bali. At REPUBLIK 45, Luca Masini uses fresh, seasonal, local and imported ingredients to present the best of Indonesian and European cuisine.
REPUBLIK 45 signature cocktails are customized for both men and women. Expect smoothness and arefreshing taste with spectacular presentations to add colours to your evening. A lounge section with comfortable sofas is the latest addition to REPUBLIK 45 spacious dining areas. The stylish bar with the wine cellar above exudes mystery and charm under the red mood lighting, and all these areas are now air conditioned. REPUBLIK 45 offers weekly live entertainment, including the popular Ladies of Republik every Wednesday. Keep up to date with what’s going on at www.republik45.com
IZAKAYA BRUNCH @ ALILA SEMINYAK The new Izakaya Sunday Brunch is a great addition to Bali’s burgeoning Sunday Brunch scene. Enjoy a free flow of Japanese specialties such as sushi, salad, teppanyaki, robata, miso soup and noodles as well as the chef ’s display of Japanese-themed desserts. Plus guests also enjoy complimentary access to the Party Pool, and Play Alila for their little ones. It’s a deliciously satisfying way to spend Sunday with friends and loved ones. How do we know? We tried it last week and it is absolutely delicious! And for those wondering, an Izakaya is a small, fun Japanese restaurant. Food and Soft Drinks: IDR 485.000++/person. Free-flow Sake Cocktails Package: IDR 550.000++/person Free-flow Sake Cocktails + Sparkling Wine Package: IDR 900.000++/person. Every Sunday from 12pm – 4pm
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Section.
Restaurants
at your dream destination.
All good food
FO OD, DINING, CHEFS, CUISINE
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BALI TOP DINING
Char Char Gueridon Style. Location:
Text by:
BALI
DAVID TRAUTS
Char Char Bar & Grill is well known for its open air, secondfloor dining and its terrace steps overlooking the main street. However, there is something new at the Eats Street restaurant and it’s only available on the ground floor. It’s an entirely different dining experience – Gueridon style. Gueridon in French means a small table, but in culinary terms it refers to a live cooking station. And that’s exactly what you get - your own personal chef cooking your dishes right in front of your table. After sitting down and choosing from the a la carte menu or special set three-course menu, the small trolley table is wheeled out and the show begins. In typical Balinesia fashion, the attentive staff are hovering around the table as we read the menu. Balinesia is the holding company in charge of three of the most popular restaurants on the Seminyak dining strip; Ultimo, Rumours and they are
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on point again with their third and latest outlet, Char Char Bar & Grill. We decided what we wanted – the three course set menu that comes in at a very reasonable Rp 250k including a glass of wine. There is a selection of four dishes on each the entrée and mains section, with a choice of two desserts to finish. Since there were four of us we decided to try the lot. As the drinks arrived - we went for the Cape Discovery Sauvignon Blanc, which was including in the set menu - the chef was in position with his Gueridon table ready to make the entrees. The Spaghetti Alfredo is cooked in a Parmesan wheel, which is hollowed out, where the hot pasta is tossed, mixing with the cheese and cream sauce. A richer, creamy sauce you couldn’t imagine. Tom Yum Goong is a classic spicy lemongrass and prawn soup. This was tasty and authentically
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Flaming good. The Gueridon in full force.
Thai, with three large prawns in a flavoursome soup. The Angus Beef Carpaccio features thinly sliced tenderloin fillet, glazed with mirin sake and smoked soy sauce. Anything that has mirin dances off the plate for me and this was no exception. The classic Chicken Caesar Salad, with the chicken sautéed in Chardonnay was on crispy Romaine lettuce, Caesar dressing, garlic crouton and parmesan cheese. A classic and fresh to the table. We all tried a morsel from each dish and everyone agreed this dining was nothing less than exceptional. There’s a buzz around the downstairs dining area as the trollies move from table to table wooing guests with flames periodically jumping from the frypans, while the chefs
busy themselves with cooking everyone’s dishes a la minute. It’s a fun concept and it’s OK to ask the chef anything about the cooking process as they go and the scrumptious dining for the price is simply unbelievable. While our Gueridon moves back into position, we move onto the mains. The Capellini Vongole features stir–fried fresh clams cooked with white wine, basil and chili on a portion of angel hair pasta, which creates a few flames from the frypan as it’s sautéed. The Beef Stroganoff is a large pan seared striploin steak, not sliced, accompanied by capsicum, mushroom, onion and veal juz. The Chicken Ratatoille is a pan roasted suvee chicken breast accompanied by an assorted vegetable ratatouille. Confit Duck Breast is roasted
Many succulent dishes. Beef Stroganoff, Cherries Jubilee, Duck Breast.
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Stylish but casual. The main dining area, and lounge in the background.
duck breast served with sautéed créme cabbage and fresh thymered wine orange reduction, which is a total winner and was tender and tasty as can be. Luckily there still is room for the desserts. There are two to choose from on the menu; Banana Crepes Suzette and Cherries Jubilee. Both are the
prefect finish to an excellent meal. However, I have to add, you can’t visit this restaurant without trying their delicious Coconut Chandol, a typical Indonesian dessert of shaved iced coconut and fruits. It’s not actually on the set menu, but it is definitely a must-try dessert at Char Char Bar & Grill. The portions of the set menu are a little smaller than the a la carte
dishes, but perfect for a three course meal. There is nothing worse than over-eating in the evening and these set menu dishes are perfectly portioned. The downstairs dining space fits around 40 people at the tables, with a spacious lounge section to one side and the open kitchen against at the back. The ground floor dining space is an intimate, air-conditioned
space and a visit to try the Gueridon is a delicious change to your usual dining experience. A three course menu cooked at your table for Rp 250K, which also includes a glass of wine, is an evening’s dining you cannot afford to miss. FRV
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