FASHION RESTAURANTS & VILL AS - BALI & SOUTHEAST ASIA ST YLE
Rp. 60.000
N O 13.2 SEPT - NOV 2016
TRIBAL ZEN WANDERLU ST
ROOMS
TRAVEL
FASHION
D INING
Sofitel Villas
Tokyo
Forbidden Room
Beach Clubs
Villa Spectrum
Hoi An
Oldies but Goodies
COMO The Treasury
Belitung
Federico Gioli Gado Gado Clothing
Bali Cafes
26 FRV l 4 Bali
3
EDITION 13.2 SEPT - NOV
Contents. 20
OL D IES BUT G OOD IES A revist of the original best restaurants
30
CA NG G U A FT E R DA R K Five great new dinner venues
36
BA L I CA FES Where to get the best in the south
40
BA L I BE A C H SC E NE The hippest beach clubs on the island
FINE W INE
46
Grenache is hitting it off in Indonesia
SPIC E
48
The secrets behind Indonesian cuisine
CA NG G U SPL E ND OU R
54
The riverside Villa Kavaya in Pererenan
SOFIT E L LUX E Luxury villas, resort style
56
50
VIL L A SPE CT RU M Stay for a day, or for a lifetime
60
PE RT H R E VIVA L The new Hotel Como Down Under
64
70 4
JA K A RTA ST Y L E The Grand Mahakam’s Exec Suites
FOR BID D E N ROOM Opium den fashion and style
5
FASH ION SCOOP
68
Coffee scrub from paradise
G IOL I
88
High fashion knitwear and accessories
GADO GADO
94
Cruelty free faux leather fashion
TR IBA L Z E N WA N D E R LU ST Fashion in the Ubud hills
98
78 BE AUT IFUL BE L IT UNG White sand paradise in the Java Sea
C H INA SPA
112
Two of Shanghai’s best
HOI A N A H OY
114
Vietnam’s coastal city delight
L AST WOR D
120
Travelling close to home
TO KYO M A D E E ASY Uncovering the city’s secrets
6
106
P T K ubu Dua M edi a J l. Pe tite nge t 12A, Ke rob oka n, B a li, I nd one sia Te l. +62 361 847 5457 | Fa x. +62 361 847 5458 ema il: info@frvb a li.c om www.frvb a li.c om Di recto r Guna wa n I nd rob a skoro Graphi cs C o o rdi nato r Te guh Ana nta (artwork@frvb a li.c om) P ho to g raphy Moc h. Sulthon, R a ma d ha n, Ad a m Ra syid Di stri buti o n Ii n I nd ra p utra , I ma m, Ma d e , Dwi i nfo@frvb a li.c om Fi nance Sri W ita ri, B a gus Oka Mark eti ng Oc hy (oc hy@frvb a li.c om | sa le s@frvb a li.c om) A dmi ni strati o n T he re sia , Poojie , Swa n Co ntri buto rs T homa s Jone s, Da vid Tra uts, Erza ST, Ve ronika K, He rma n Von Be r nha rd i Agua yo, Morin I wa shita , Nic k Wa lton, Ve Ha nd ojo. S ubscri pti o n Ye a rly sub sc rip tion a va ila b le in I nd one sia - R up ia h 199,000 Conta c t: sub sc rib e @frvb a li.c om Se nd e - ma il to the a b ove for d e ta ils. Co nsul ti ng Stua rt D W ilford (stua rt@frvb a li.c om)
Fashi o n Restaurants and Vi l l as Bal i mag azi ne i s an i ndependent, q uarterl y publ i cati o n. N ex t edi ti o n deadl i ne N o v 15, 2016
FRVBali
FRVBali
FRVBali
FR V Ba li m a ga zin e is pr in te d u n de r lic e n se d tr a de m a r k . N o pa r t of th is m a ga zin e sh o u l d b e re produ c e d with ou t th e wr itte n pe r m ission of th e pu blish e r. A ll r igh ts re se r ve d. A r tic le s re f le c t th e opin ion s of th e a u th or s, a n d n ot n e c e ssa r ily t h o s e of th e pu blish e r s. F R V Ba li m a ga zin e is distr ibu te d by; P T K u bu Du a M e dia , P e r iplu s Ja va Book s a n d P T I n doprom . Con ta c t th e e -m a il a ddre sse s a bove f or f u r th e r in f or m a tion .
FR V B ali Magaz ine
8
E dit ion 13. 2
S ept - Nov ‘ 1 6
9
E D I TOR’S NOT E FRV Bali – IT TAKES YOU PLACES
Bali is booming like never before. We seem to say that every year, but this year it is booming more than ever. There is so much going on and so much changing around us. I suppose this isn’t a phenomenon peculiar only to Bali as we have been told for decades that with the expanding population of the planet at some point there will be too many people, etc. The thing is though it seems to be coming to fruition right now! Well it isn’t all bad though, of course, as business is booming too and with more people comes more opportunities and more fun. We just hope the infrastructure keeps up with it though. Speaking of fun, Bali had a fantastic high season this year with many great events around the
venues that guests from all over the world enjoyed to their full. Ku De Ta was back in form with two exceptional parties, the Bikini and White Parties that showed that with some new blood, new and exciting things can come. Potato Head, W Bali and the Arturro Summer Party at Alila Seminyak, that FRV was also involved in presenting, were also grand events. There is nothing like being in Bali in high season! The good times are set to continue as we move into the later months of the dry season and we can be assured that Bali will still be full of foreign and local visitors filling the restaurants, bars, hotels and villas till the end of the year and beyond. Visit www.thebeatbali.com to keep up
with all the action. Featured inside this edition, we focus on the best beach clubs around the island and also take a look at how the better restaurants over the past years are keeping up with the new competition in town. And you can be guaranteed there is plenty of that. This edition also has more outstanding prose and photographs from around the country and the region as our intrepid writers travel far and wide to discover all. We trust you will enjoy this edition of FRV Bali. If you would like to send in some comments or encouraging words please do it via editor@frvbali. com – we’d love to hear from you!
F RV C O N T R I B U TO R S DAVID TRAUTS This English correspondent founded The Beat magazine and then the group’s flagship, FRV. He always enjoys new experiences and the freedom of the getaway – sometimes far, sometimes close, but always fun. Good food, good wine, good people and times are the essence of an enjoyable life—you don’t need many or much, it’s the quality that counts.
ERZA S.T. Erza ST writes for many Indonesian publications and is a regular bon-vivant in his home town of Jakarta. He has been the head honcho of the Indonesian Opera Society for many years and can be caught at many of the classical concerts around the country. He loves winter in European countries as much as he loves good food and conversation in the best restaurants in Jakarta.
10
THOMAS JONES Travel writing is an admirable and important profession that takes a lot of dedication, hard work and a smidgen of luck to make it pay. Yet despite the hardships, Thomas sees it as a calling to take the opportunities that arise and share the lessons learned with the FRV community. This issue he’s taken to the sttreets of Tokyo to find that it’s not such an enigmatic city mission after all. A major encouragement to go visit.
SALVADOR B New Yorker, U.S.A., moved to Bali in nineteen eighty three, painter, writer, musician and song writer. Through the years he has been noted as a true renaissance man in that perspective. As a writer he has contributed many an articles on the life styles of Bali as well as interviews, openings, fashion and food reviews.
NICK WALTON Nick has been writing on travel for over 10 years, including most recently as the travel editor for the South China Morning Post. From his home in Hong Kong he regularly travels throughout Asia and beyond, looking for new experiences, trends and destinations, both for his travel pieces in over 60 magazines globally, as well as his weekly radio show.
VERONIKA K Veronika is not only a journalist, but also a professional mermaid and a travel junkie. Praguebased, she has been living life in flip-flops since 2008. If not on her laptop forging words, she can be found playing in the ocean or practicing her headstands. Vero’s hobbies are breakfast, lunch & dinner and writing about herself in the third person.
11
Bits & Pieces NEW TO AZUL BEACH CLUB Bali Mandira Beach Resort and Spa, which also includes the Azul Beach Club, has a new Corporate Director of Food & Beverage, Austrianborn Helmut Roessler. The vivacious young man will bring his exuberance and deep understanding of the food and beverage world to the new beach club and other properties in the pipeline with the Bali Mandira group. Helmut is a trained mixologist, with over 10 years of experience at worldrenowned establishments throughout Europe, the US and Asia, including Shanghai’s M18 and M1NT, and Spain’s
Nikki Beach and other European establishments. Having worked in hospitality, restaurants and night clubs since he was 15 years old, the award winning manager will be in charge of all bars and restaurants in the prestigious Mandira properties. Arriving in Bali 1.5 years ago to work in Seminyak’s Luna 2 private hotel, he already knows what Bali guests need. And what’s Helmut bringing to the table? “Our goal with Azul and all future projects is to deliver first class food and beverage with the best possible personal service.”
Will Meyrick’s latest concept has hit the second floor of the famed Seminyak dining outlet, Mamasan. It offers a casual, bar-side dining option giving the chance to oversee the chefs making delicious Southeast Asian fusion tapastyle dishes right before your eyes. An innovative cocktail list has also been created by resident mixologist, Brazilian Raphael to complement the light and night bites menu. This new dining spot is ideal for single fighters, couples, groups looking for a snack while waiting a table downstairs, or anyone after a tasty combination of dishes to share. Must tries; slow braised short rib beef salad
with green salad, Asian celery coriander & Sichuan chilli dressing (100k), popcorn tempura shrimp with togarashi & smoked chili mayo (90k), and carpaccio amberjack with ponzu beetroot & seaweed (90k). There are 20 plus small dishes and around 10 cocktails to choose from on the ever changing – depending on what’s fresh – Tasting Club menu. Head upstairs at Mamasan to find out what it’s all about for yourself!
MAMASAN TASTING CLUB OPENS
12
www.mamasanbali.com
13
Bits & Pieces FOOD FOR THOUGHT - THE BALI CHILDREN FOUNDATION While for most the image of Bali is one of amazing beauty and an extraordinary lifestyle, there is another side to life on this magnificent island. With limited recourse going to education and social services many families in Bali work hard to survive in the remote areas where schools and running water are rare entire families struggle to eat enough. On an island known for high-end tourism and that creates beautiful experiences for its guests, it can seem out of balance that the benefits are not lifting the living standards for the local population. Bali Children’s Foundation has sought to redress this balance over the past five years. The foundation was founded by Margaret Barry, a homewares designer originally from Melbourne, and a highly regarded long time resident of Bali. BCF supports the rural communities of Bali to access education and is active in over 40 communities from North Bali to Nusa Lembongan, making links between the foundation’s administration and the local schools. These links help to establish learning paths from primary education and graduation from high school into tertiary education, which is not something many families can afford. Graduates are eligible for scholarships that can see them achieving success in many fields. Recent graduates have been successful in engineering studies and IT as well as graduating from courses in hospitality, and for one graduate, a
14
hotel management degree. Students who benefit from the longer term programs also commit to sharing their learning with others, many of the English Language programs facilitated through Bali Children’s Foundation are taught by these dedicated young people who recognise that opportunities for their country lie in the increase of education and to a certain extent a good knowledge of English can provide entry into the job market. One of the BCF initiatives, a partnership with the Sarong Group, Metis and Indowines is a supportive hospitality industry program called Food For Thought, which not only offers training and employment opportunities to graduates, but can provide employment during college in order to support and assist with family finances. Employment in the hospitality industry remains high and it may be the only industry that can be entered with little academic education and find pathways to major success. Many of the BCF hospitality graduates are now working in the fine dining industry in well-known restaurants, including Sarong, Mama San and Metis. Will Meyrick, Executive Chef at Sarong began his association with Bali Children’s Foundation just over two years ago and says, “What we have found is the young people from BCF who join our team are a real bonus, they are enthusiastic, they are willing to work hard and they
train to attain and maintain high professional standards. In front of house and waiting staff positions they really bring a great energy to what they do, and it’s good to see because in this industry you can really go from zero to hero based on your own skills and personality.” For these Food for Thought partners the initiative has made good business sense. In their businesses, graduates receive skill based opportunities that can lead eventually to the realisation of nurtured dreams and ambitions of their own, from owning a restaurant in their home town to becoming an excellent barista. With school fees of $500 dollars a year, and two year graduate courses at $1,500 the chance for most rural families to gain education beyond Primary School is slim, but with Bali Children’s Foundation support, more
and more families are getting an opportunity for a brighter future. In addition to educational support, Bali Children’s Foundation helps children to stay with their families rather than being placed into the system of homes or orphanages in order to gain support. This strengthens families who can witness first-hand the progress of their children as they gain in knowledge. In the end, the whole community benefits from this support. For more stories of success from Food for Thought visit BCF at www. balichildrenfoundation.org/ or Sarong’s website www. sarongbali.com | www. foodforthoughtbali.com
15
FRV SOCIAL
Cape Mentelle Wine Dinner. At the beginning of July, Arwana restaurant at The Laguna Bali Resort & Spa in Nusa Dua hosted its second wine dinner of the year featuring wines from the distinguished Margaret River winery, Cape Mentelle. The event started with guests gathering for pre-cocktails and canapés at the beachfront Arwana Bar before dinner. Wine dinners are occasions to be savoured and I always say should never be missed, not only for the delicious food and top quality wines presented, but also for the social occasion they offer. This one was no exception and actually one of the finest and most value-formoney wine dinners I can recall.
16
Cape Mentelle is one of the top producers of premium wines in the Margaret River region, which is well known as one of the best regions of wine production in all of Australia. Established in 1970, each vintage from Cape Mentelle is blended following a two selection criteria: excellence and style. The winery is also part of the world renowned Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE (LVMH) wine and spirit brands. Guests sat down to a five-course degustation menu, thoughtfully planned by the Executive Chef of The Laguna, Made Putra and executed by his excellent kitchen and restaurant staff.
The dishes were paired perfectly with acclaimed vintages of the Australian fine wine. Wines selected from the Cape Mentelle range were sauvignon blanc semillon, chardonnay, cabernet merlot, shiraz and the estate’s signature grape variety, cabernet sauvignon. Every dish burst with flavours and they were presented in an elegant and creative, fine-dining style, as one would expect at such an outing. It was exceptional fine dining. The evening was curated delightfully by Chief Sommelier of The St. Regis Bali Resort, sister hotel of The Laguna Resort & Spa, Harald Wiesmann. FRV
17
NEW IN THE HOOD
Tusu, or not Tusu? Location: JL. SUBAK SARI
NO
2
Open:
Facebook:
MON-SUN 11:00 - 00:00
TUSUBALI
DJ Michaelis, the resident DJ. Tuesday nights it’s reggae, and Saturdays it’s deep house. Even when the tunes are coming from a playlist, they’re still thoughtfully curated, just like everything else, down to the smallest detail. “We wanted to create a space that feels welcoming and comfortable,” says Robby Rhau, “a place where people can come and sip a good cocktail and enjoy delicious dishes made from old Haitian family recipes.” The sisters’ Caribbean roots are evident in menu items like the Caribbean Chicken Wrap, Jerk King Prawns, and Island Chicken Wings, and in some of the signature cocktails like the Voodoo Vibe, where a mix of cachaça rum, lime, sugar, fresh sugarcane and selzer packs a big punch. But the overall vibe is far from tropical.
At the edge of Canggu, on the bustling corner of Jalan Raya Pantai Berawa, a new cocktail bar and eatery has opened its doors. Tusu is the latest in Canggu’s coming-of-age evolution from casual surfer town to sophisticated scene, and with its mirrored ceilings, tufted sofas, and charcoal walls, there’s no denying it’s raising the bar. Despite its prime location, with a wall of
18
lead-paned windows fronting the street and an inviting second-floor outdoor lounge area overlooking frangipani and palms, Tusu remains hidden in plain sight. That’s no mistake. Owners (and sisters), Sarah and Robby Rhau, enjoy the air of mystery, knowing that when something is truly cool, there’s no need to shout. Besides, even if people miss the small group
of letters spelling out T-U-S-U on the rustic planters next to the street, they won’t miss the warm glow emanating from the Edison bulbs lighting the space up like a jewel, or the crowdpleasing beats that drift out the front door almost every night of the week. Wednesdays and Fridays, guests are treated to smooth hip-hop and R&B spun by
With shelves brimming with books, photographs, and treasures; sparkling antique crystal barware; and inviting sofas and loungers packing the cozy space, Tusu is more reminiscent of a New York speakeasy than an island bar. One thing is certain – this is a place where you’ll feel right at home. FRV
Section.
Restaurants
at your dream destination.
All good food
FO OD, DINING, CHEFS, CUISINE
19
BALI RESTAURANTS
Oldies but Goodies. Location: BALI – INDONESIA
In the ever-changing culinary landscape of Seminyak in Bali there have been a number of standout restaurants that have weathered the storms of change and still walk tall in the noise and buzz of so much new competition in town. As media hype normally concentrates on the new and wonderful, sometimes a look into the
jewel box can turn up a diamond or two that you may have forgotten were even there. FRV decided to take another look at the restaurants that have seasoned our Bali palate for many years and have played their part in making this island’s culinary scene what it is today. So we asked a couple of questions to find out what is new at …
“Shining like Diamonds.” Dining under the stars The terrace dining area with new bar area.
CHEZ GADO GADO Remodeled from one of the most popular discotheques on Bali back in the early 2000s, Gado Gado has always supplied the right combination of elegant dining and an exquisite, but no fuss, menu. While not succumbing to the latest fads and fashions it has kept it simple and precise, with one great advantage; the stunning location over Seminyak beach.
20
Give them tapas The special tapas selection dish for two.
Dutch Chef Quib Rademaker, who has been manning the kitchen since eight years ago, continues developing concepts at the restaurant. “We’ve played with different furniture layouts, lighting, menus, but for me it all comes down to the simple and delicious dishes we offer,” says the Dutch chef. The continually evolving tapas menu is one of the highlights nowadays in Gado Gado and there is no better place than sitting at the new terrace bar to enjoy them. “If I could I would put 50 tapas dishes on the menu, but most guests will always want the mains so that is impossible.” Try the tapas selection dish for two. At a price of Rp 250k it can’t be beat for a light dinner, and shared with a glass of wine and some fine company, a beautiful evening is guaranteed. Dining indoors The stylish interior dining room.
21
Blue skies and green grass The distictive red umbrellas of Ku De Ta.
KU DE TA KU DE TA has been setting the pace on Bali since opening in the year 2000. It was the first combined beach club and fine dining restaurant in Seminyak and its high standards, style and sophistication was a driving force in making the southwest part of Bali the fashionable zone it is now. A line up of creative chefs, a clear vision and a management prepared to keep up with the times has kept KU DE TA evolving and on top of its game over the years. There has hardly been a year pass without some kind of renovation or improvement being made. The dining has always been excellent, and with a dream team of chefs and sous-chefs updating the menus constantly, it continues to be one of the best restaurants
22
in town. Add to that the new degustation menu-based restaurant, Mejekawi, on the second floor overlooking the Indian Ocean and guests have every point of fine dining worth its salt covered. Two new dishes to watch out for at KU DE TA. Yellow fin tuna tartare. Dashi custard, pickeled daikon, pomelo & tempe goring with tuna from source fair trade yellow fin tuna. KU DE TA Executive Chef Benjamin Cross explains, “We’re are in fact the first restaurant in the world to source and serve it.” And from Mejekawi - prawn & coconut custard. “This dish consists of a delicate coconut custard that is served with an emulsion of tom yum and butter and then we place a thin silk made from squid on top with a little burnt chive oil,” says Ben. It’s only new but appears to be a hit with Mejekawi guests already.
The head and executive chefs Steven Moore & Benjamin Cross.
Designed with style Mejekawi, the bar and new pool area.
What’s the secret of KU DE TA keeping ahead of the new competition in town? “Myself and Stephen Cross, our head chef, are continually seeking new inspiration and culinary experiences that we can interpret and showcase at Mejekawi and KU DE TA. We travel frequently, expanding our awareness of different cuisines and cooking techniques. We also collaborate with chefs from other likeminded international restaurants, in particular through the Culinary Collective series that we have recently introduced at Mejekawi. We are lucky to have Mejekawi within KU DE TA as it enables us to focus heavily on menu development using different techniques and trends, which I suppose you wouldn’t normally be found in a high volume restaurant of our size.”
23
Rambling rose The Bali style of the main dining area.
LA SAL La Sal was the first Spanish restaurant in town that had an authentic and modern Spanish flavour. It was authentic not just in the dishes served but also with its classy design and funkiness. That kind of Spanish cool from AlmodĂłvar movies. That funky element combined with the Bali style feel of alang alang roofing and indoor/ outdoor setting made La Sal one of the choice restaurants to dine in on a special occasion or any night of the week for a quick and delicious feed. They added the outdoor grill a few years ago that opened up a whole new dining option for the restaurant and became one of the favourite grills in town. It’s been a bumpy road over the years with the street out front being dug up for over two years a while ago
24
and looks like they are digging it up again right now, but La Sal just keeps on moving along like a Spanish matador in all its glory. The grill is still one of the best and mix that with some tasty tapas and Spanish or Italian wine and you will be saying, Viva Espana! next time you dine in their garden setting.
Outdoor dining Many a night and many a paella in the garden.
25
A fine dining room Pressed white linen and silver service.
METIS METIS started life as Kafe Warisan, which was not far from where the restaurant now stands. Warisan was one of the best restaurants in town for many years serving authentic French cuisine in relaxed, fine dining surroundings. Chef Doudou is a very talented, well trained French chef and his partner and restaurant manager, Said, who is not only well-known for his famed cous cous, but also being a champion publican, making sure that all guests are treated like royalty. This was the magic formula and the new METIS has continued the same tradition of fine French dining in a larger, more modern space just around the corner. Since opening they have added a spacious lounge area and a vast, beautiful garden. Their classic dishes like the traditional foie gras and one of the best duck confit you will ever try are still on the menu. While new dishes like the 12 hours lamb shoulder mechoui
26
12 Hour Lamb Shoulder Mechoui Under the shadow of the pepper mill.
Iberico Platter The dining is always exceptional.
with tomato, eggplant and chickpeas ragout flavoured with cumin, fresh coriander, roasted garlic for two to four persons (Rp.650,000++) are keeping METIS on cue. What have Doudou and Said done to keep up with the avalanche of competition and METIS on top? The answer is quite simple according to Said. “Continuous hard work. Adjusting to market trends (for example with the opening of new lounge, new garden or simply adding new items to our menu) while still preserving our identity. Basically we keep improving our products and service regularly,� states Said Alem. METIS continues to be one of the best French restaurants in town in decor, service and cuisine.
METIS garden The new garden looking back towards the lounge and restaurant.
27
A fusion of colours Try the cocktails with the delicious dining.
SARONG Will Meyrick’s first restaurant venture was a combination of creative cuisine and delightful restaurant design. Sarong was the restaurant Meyrick honed his street food concept which has had such major success that now it’s difficult to think of street food without his name. Sarong was a smash hit from day one when it first opened in 2008 and has continued in the same direction till this day. The combination of authentic Thai, Indian and Indonesian cuisine gives guests the option between light and heavier dishes and the perfectly prepared sauces that are an integral part of all dishes are what Sarong is all about. This restaurant played a major part in the popularity of Asian cuisine that can now be seen all over Bali. Recently a choice of Japanese sashimi dishes have been added balancing the menu even more. Try the all-time favourites like poached prawns with green mango lemongrass, or duck san choi bao with garlic chive beansprout chilli bean & lettuce cups. Or maybe straight to a delicious main? A must is the traditional rogan josh of lamb shank with garam 28
masala tomato nutmeg cardamom. With all those spices this dish is out of its world. The delightful dÄ‚Ĺ cor of Sarong is akin to a beautiful Bali villa. They have recreated the popular, combined sofa arrangement from the back dining area to the other dining areas with great success, and the lighting is perfect from the chandeliers to the strip lighting along the floor edges. They have improved the visual and Sarong is looking and tasting better with every visit. In regard to keeping up with the new competition, Will says after spending the last few years opening restaurants all over the region he wants to now focus on his home turf a little more. “After settling all the restaurants offshore now it is about maintaining and taking the restaurants here in Bali to the next level. We will compete by putting the food back on the map. There are so many mini Mamasans all around the island now so we want to create new things with my own new inspirations,â€? says Will. FRV
Refined Asian style The combined sofa set up has always been the seating of choice.
29