Food & Dine Magazine_People and Places

breaking

chain

by . christian walsh photographs by dan dry

Now locally-owNed, MartiNi italiaN Bistro shakes its corporate, out-of-state owNership

L

Louisville means business when it comes to buying local. An increasing number of consumers insist on frequenting independent shops, as organizations around the city continue to develop the hometown brand. A dining service called “Louisville Originals,” an annual “Buy Local First Fair” and those omnipresent “Keep Louisville Weird” bumper stickers regularly remind us to support our neighbor’s businesses over massive, publicly traded ones. Doing so keeps about three times as much revenue within this community that, because of its indigenous restaurants, craft breweries and cafes, doesn’t look like just another exit on the interstate.

Last November, a solid, mid-range, Italian restaurant joined the ranks of the proudly local. But the twist in the breadstick that is Martini Italian Bistro is that, until recently, the eatery was just one rib in a sizeable, corporate umbrella. The Ohio-based Cameron Mitchell Restaurants once spanned nine states and consisted of 33 outlets, including steakhouses, Asian cuisine and seafood markets. After a merger with an even larger company in 2008, and following a three-year tap dance with the constricting credit markets that followed the sub-prime mortgage collapse, Jim Davis, a Louisvillian and long time General Manager at Martini’s, finally wrested ownership of the bistro from its parent company.

House-made three cheese ravioli.

Martini’s new owner Jim Davis

Big fish, little fish

While trolling the waters for what’s commonly referred to as a “second growth vehicle” in the

“Going local is definitely on the books. We’re making a steady progression into that. We want to be Kentucky Proud,”

world of Mergers and Acquisitions, Ruth Chris Steakhouse set its sights on Mitchell’s Fish Market, a sister company and next door neighbor to Martini’s. After unloading the fish markets and other establishments for a cool 92 million, Cameron Mitchell, a bigtime, Columbus restaurateur, was left with a single business in Louisville: Martini Italian Bistro. Mitchell became interested in cutting ties here and asked his loyal GM what his future plans were.

As if to reward Davis for his years of service, Mitchell offered the Bistro at a price well below market value. Davis jumped at the opportunity, but was unable to secure financing. The deal looked as though it might slip off of the hook, but Mitchell was determined to get his protégé and trusty employee set up, reducing the price once more and bringing a closing date within reach. For his part, Davis promised to work the place for Mitchell until the funding was in order.

Three years later, true to his word, Mitchell signed the papers. Davis lost a boss, but gained a bistro.

“It was an amazing deal,” says Davis. “For me, I come from England, so coming over here is kind of what you hear about the “American dream.” Who would have ever thought that this would be possible? Cameron is just a great mentor and encouraged me a lot and made it work for me.”

Davis can make it sound as if his meal ticket simply fell from the sky, but in fact the newly-minted restaurant owner has been building up to this moment with decades in the food and beverage industry. His resume includes sixteen years tending bar in England, four years as a pub owner in Cambridge, then management stints in the U.S. with Disney, Planet Hollywood and Bahama Breeze. With each of these stops, Davis and his wife were picking their way closer to Louisville—Mrs. Davis is a Kentucky gal. Finally, Davis landed a gig in Louisville, serving as Beverage Director for Chi Chi’s until that operation left town. Then Martini’s arrived at The Summit and Davis signed on for what he calls the best job he’s ever had.

“I joined Cameron Mitchell Restaurants and thought, I’m never going to leave. Little did I know. I never really left the restaurant, but now I own it!”

Davis looks right at home here, revealing that, as the son of a British military man, his time in Louisville is the longest he’s remained in one city. Asked about his view of the local appetite and whether he expects

(above right) Spaghetti primavera with zucchini, yellow squash, garbanzo beans, onions, mushrooms, spinach and zesty marinara; (right) Jumbo sea scallops seared with lemon garlic white wine sauce, spinach, sun-dried tomatoes and crispy capers

an up tick in sales since the ownership change, Davis says;

“People in Louisville are very partial toward the independent restaurant and local ownership. We’d always done well, but I had noticed that stigma of being part of something corporate. And now that we are independent, I’ve seen people coming in who said they would never have if we’d still been corporate.”

You just Bought a restaurant. now what?

Even before handing over the keys, Mitchell told Davis to run the place as if it were his own. Now that the corporate training wheels have come off, Davis and Executive Chef Allen Hubbard are still easing into their new freedoms. For the time being, as far as their guests can see, it will be business as usual at Martini’s. No reason to

hastily fix what isn’t broken, as the ownership sees it.

Although there are no drastic menu or décor transformations planned, a move toward seasonal dishes is already in the works. (Previously, the bill-of-fare remained unchanged year-round.) Also in 2012, the kitchen will seek out more local ingredients from smaller purveyors that are based closer to home.

“Going local is definitely on the books. We’re making a steady progression into that. We want to be Kentucky Proud,” Davis reports.

The new boss also expects Hubbard, a chef who has never had a problem going off-book, to show off more of his signature flare,. The former military cook and alumnus of the upscale Vincenzo’s claims that the menu is merely a guideline for him. Hubbard actually relishes those finicky guests who issue special requests or have specific dietary needs. If he has what you want on hand, Hubbard is happy to oblige. Challenge me, is a familiar refrain heard around his kitchen. Vegetarians are people too, is another, as well as, It’s not about me.

So, how did this African-American ex-Marine come to specialize in Italian cuisine? Hubbard recounted his youth in downtown Louisville to answer this.

“I knew by 8 or 9 that I was going to be an Italian chef. We used to have this guy who’d come over way back in the day-Pasquale. Little, bitty, old Italian dude. Thing I loved about his food was that it was fresh. Everything fresh. It was beautiful. Plus, he had his glass of wine, always having a good time, a smile on his face. Italy to me is, like, the best!”

Scanning the contented dining room on a busy night at Martini’s, Pasquale’s legacy feels palpable. It looks as though Hubbard and crew have done well at recreating the happy atmosphere once enjoyed in the kitchen with his old friend. The lasting effect also shows up on the plates here, where the kitchen keeps things fresh with sauces, stocks, meatballs, breads and desserts all made from scratch.

served with a saffron-infused white wine sauce.

Mangia! Mangia!

Although the menu is filled with what we think of as classic Italian, Hubbard is trying to move things a step or two toward the Mediterranean. Hubbard, who feels fortunate to have “grown up in the garden,” looks to implement some of Italy’s lighter, regional standards with an assortment of vegetarian and seafood choices. This new attitude reveals itself with the Risotto di Pesce (15.99) an Aborio rice dish loaded with frutto de mare—salmon, shrimp and mussels—and

The Mediterranean Scallops (19.99) is another recent addition. The entrée features giant, U-10 Sea Scallops seared and plated on a vivid, aromatic arrangement of spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, crispy capers and a lemony garlic sauce.

For those diners not concerned with dress size, Hubbard recommends the Pork Chop Italiana (19.99), a heartier item added to the new seasonal menu this winter. The center cut chop rests on a bed of garlic mashed potatoes, topped with a Dijon-cream-spinach sauce and served with a side of sweet spaghetti squash.

“This one will put you to sleep! This one’s for my big guys. Guys like me, who come to eat” Hubbard

Top: Martini’s daily house-made bread; Above: Risotto de Pesce –Aborio rice tossed with salmon, jumbo shrimp, mussels and tomatoes in saffron infused wine garlic sauce.

be soc a I m

to be soc a I m an eater! When go out

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sp

I m gonna eat

advises. “Some people come to dine--know what I’m saying. Some come to be social. I’m an eater! When I go out, I’m not trying to dine. I’m gonna eat some good food, spill a little bit on my chin and not be pretentious about it.”

I’m not tr y ng to dine I m gonna eat some good food, sp ll a itt e bit on my ch n and not be pretent ous about t ” T h o s e

A m e r i c a n f avo r t e s o f yo r e c a n r e s t assured Mar tin ’ s Spaghetti and Meatbal s (13 99), ser ved w th chef s housemade mar inar a and gr andma-sty e meatba ls of veal and beef wi l satisfy anyone s need for the fam liar The Three Cheese Rav ol (12 50) should a so fit th s bi l The k tchen “ ove r s t u f f s ” t h e s e w i t h g o a t c h e e s e

A m e r i c a n f avo r t e s o f yo r e c a n r e s t assured Mar tin ’ s Spaghetti and Meatbal s (13 99), ser ved w th chef s housemade mar inar a and gr andma-sty e meatba ls of veal and beef wi l satisfy anyone s need for the fam liar. The Three Cheese Rav ol (12 50) should a so fit th s bi l The k tchen

Those craving the starchy, creamy, deliciously cheesy, old school Italian-American favorites of yore can rest assured. Martini’s Spaghetti and Meatballs (13.99), served with chef’s housemade marinara and grandma-style meatballs of veal and beef, will satisfy anyone’s need for the familiar. The Three Cheese Ravioli (12.50) should also fit this bill. The kitchen “overstuffs” these with goat cheese, Boursin and Parmigianno, and bakes them with Alfredo sauce and breadcrumbs before dressing the dish with an argyle crisscross of pesto and marinara.

“ ove r s t u f f s ” t h e s e w i t h g o a t c h e e s e Bour sin and Par m g anno, and bakes them w t h A l f r e d o s a u c e a n d b r e a d c r u m b s before dressing the dish with an ar gy e cr sscross of pesto and mar inar a.

Bour sin and Par m g anno, and bakes them w t h A l f r e d o s a u c e a n d b r e a d c r u m b s before dressing the dish with an ar gy e cr sscross of pesto and mar inar a

when in roMe

W h e n i n R o m e

W h e n i n R o m e

Before returning to the kitchen, Hubbard pulled a brand new passport from his back pocket and waved it proudly. “I got this today,” he says. Hubbard, who caught the travel bug while in the service, reported that come February, he’ll be on a plane to Rome for the first time--a gift to himself for turning 44. The trip has actually arrived a year earlier than expected. As a boy, Hubbard made a promise to himself that he’d get to Italy before his 45th birthday. While speaking of this pledge, the chef brightened, much in the way he did when recounting the “little, bitty, old Italian dude” who first turned him on to his favorite cuisine.

Before retur n ng to the k tchen, Hubbard pu led a br and new passpor t from h s back pocket and waved t proud y “I got th s today” he says.

Hubbard who caught the tr ave bug whi e in the ser vice , repor ted that come Febr uar y he l be on a plane to Rome for the fir st t me--a gift to h mself for tur ning 44 The tr ip has actua ly ar r ived a year ear l er than expected. As a boy, Hubbard made a prom se to h mse f that he’d get to I t a y b e fo r e h s 4 5 t h b r t h d ay W h l e s p e a k n g o f t h i s p e d g e , t h e c h e f br ghtened much n the way he d d when recount ng the “litt e , b tty o d tal an dude” who fir st tur ned h m on to his favor ite cuisine

Expect good things to come out of the chef’s field research.

Before retur n ng to the k tchen, Hubbard pu led a br and new passpor t from h s back pocket and waved t proud y “I got th s today” he says Hubbard who caught the tr ave bug whi e in the ser vice , repor ted that come Febr uar y he l be on a plane to Rome for the fir st t me--a gift to h mself for tur ning 44 The tr ip has actua ly ar r ived a year ear l er than expected As a boy, Hubbard made a prom se to h mse f that he’d get to I t a y b e fo r e h s 4 5 t h b r t h d ay W h l e s p e a k n g o f t h i s p e d g e , t h e c h e f br ghtened much n the way he d d when recount ng the “litt e , b tty o d tal an dude” who fir st tur ned h m on to his favor ite cuisine

Expect good things to come out of the chef s ie d research

Expect good things to come out of the chef s ie d research

As for Mar t ni s new propr ietor Dav s says the biggest d fference between having a boss and being one is that sudden y the live ihood of s xty emp oyees s resting on your ever y move The caut ous managertur ned-owner feels a special pressure on seeing that ever ything is done r ght on h s end so that h s team continues to have a p ace to wor k The people who make th s p ace go seem to be what Davis is most

p r o u d o f T h i s m e a s u r e d bu s n e s s m a n d dn t beam often dur ing our nter v ew but he sure d d l ght up when ment on ng that no one on h s staff was ost dur ing the change of owner ship

As for Martini’s new proprietor, Davis says the biggest difference between having a boss and being one is that suddenly, the livelihood of sixty employees is resting on your every move. The cautious manager-turned-owner feels a special pressure on seeing that everything is done right on his end, so that his team continues to have a place to work. The people who make this place go seem to be what Davis is most proud of. This measured businessman didn’t beam often during our interview, but he sure did light up when mentioning that no one on his staff was lost during the change of ownership. F&D

As for Mar t ni s new propr ietor Dav s says the biggest d fference between having a boss and being one is that sudden y the live ihood of s xty emp oyees s resting on your ever y move The caut ous managertur ned-owner feels a special pressure on seeing that ever ything is done r ght on h s end so that h s team continues to have a p ace to wor k The people who make th s p ace go seem to be what Davis is most p r o u d o f T h i s m e a s u r e d bu s n e s s m a n d dn t beam often dur ing our nter v ew but he sure d d l ght up when ment on ng that no one on h s staff was ost dur ing the change of owner ship

Grilled pork chop with a balsamic glaze, sautéed peppers and onions, roasted potatoes and Italian skillet beans.