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# 9

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H a wa i ’ i

トラベル VOYAGE

J ohn J ohn Fl orenc e | P h o t o : P e t e F r i e d e n


FISHER HEVERLY --HEAD HIGH : DEPACTUS NAVY


FREE PARKING

Mexico has all of the ingredients for an epic surf trip: crooked policia, unruly cartels, amazing tacos, relatively inexpensive travel, and friendly Latin American vibes. And the waves! A multitude of huge waves, semi huge waves, medium waves, and small waves of every temperature and shape for all types of surf craft and abilities. Josh Moniz, pictured here, running and gunning deep in mainland Mexico. Photo: Laserwolf


Frieden

COVER STORY

By Tony Heff Page 1 has to be the hardest photo to pick in any issue of any magazine. It has the power to make or break an issue. It should grab your attention. And when I say grab your attention, I mean stop you in your tracks. Also, we hope our cover impresses the toughest of critics. And with the surf world chock full of world class photographers and pro surfers that have grown up admiring and critiquing the best of the best in surf photos, it’s a lot to live up to.  For this month’s travel issue of Freesurf, we had a bit of a dilemma. We had our cover picked out, and thought it was a done deal. The shot was unique, captivating... and somehow, unbeknownst to us, already graced the cover of not one but two regional surf magazines. We had been sitting on this unpublished image for a few months, but in that time the shot made its way around the globe. You’d think the photographer would have mentioned this... and you’d think I would have asked. Now when I say we thought the cover was a done deal, I mean that we had already sent it off to the printers and were waiting approval. Upon discovering our cover was “blown,” a wave of anxiety welled up in me, and I braced myself for crisis. Then I remembered Pete Frieden, one of our most beloved contributing photographers, had a treasure trove of unseen John John photos from West Oz. The legendary lensman had more than a couple covers in the bag, and we found one that was a perfect fit. Another epic cover in the books. We hope you’ll agree.  pau


SHAYDEN DELA CRUZ-PACARRO

Hawaii’s Biggest and Best Selection of Surf Gear

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Photo: Shawn Pila

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Brent Bielmann

TABLE OF C ONT ENT S


Free Parking

6

Cover Story

8

Editor’s Note 14 News & Events 16 Tips for Maximizing Your Surf Trip 24 Grom Reporting 26

Field Notes / Fiji 28 Feature / Know Where 34 Aperture 48 Travel Map 56 Brent’s Travel Necessities 58 Living Pono 62

Voyaging with Hōkūle‘a 66 She Rips 72 Industry Notes 76 Last Look 80


Pete Frieden

I dream

of Jamba Introducing 3 new flavors in the Dreams line up. Strawberry Dreamin’

Pineapple Dreamin’

Blueberry Dreamin’

Editorial

Publisher Mike Latronic Associate Publisher Lauren Rolland Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director John Weaver Multimedia Director Tyler Rock Ambassador-at-Large Chris Latronic Social Media Manager Keoki Saguibo Editorial Assistant Dan House Staff Photographers Brent Bielmann, Tony Heff, Tyler Rock, Chris Latronic, Mike Latronic, Tyler Rock, Keoki Saguibo Free Thinkers Kaiser Auberlen, Jason Jopling, Blake Lefkoe, Ulu Napeahi, Kiva Rivers, Sean Walker, Shelby Welinder

Senior Contributing Photographers

Erik Aeder, Eric Baeseman (outbluffum.com), Brian Bielmann, Ryan Craig, Jeff Divine, Pete Frieden, Gonzo, Dane Grady, Taylor Ivison, Bryce Johnson, Ha’a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Bruno Lemos, Mana, Zak Noyle, Shawn Pila, Jim Russi, Jason Shibata, Spencer Suitt, Tai Vandyke

Orange Dream Machine

Contributing Photographers

John Bilderback, Marc Chambers, Brooke Dombroski, DoomaPhoto, Rick Doyle, Isaac Frazer, Pete Hodgson, Kin Kimoto, Laserwolf, Tim McKenna, Dave “Nelly” Nelson, Nick Ricca, Heath Thompson, Bill Taylor, Wyatt Tillotson, Corey Wilson, Jimmy Wilson, Peter “Joli” Wilson, Cole Yamane Senior Account Executive Brian Lewis Business Coordinator Cora Sanchez Office Manager Nate Leclair FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i. You can also pick up FREESURF on the mainland at Barnes & Noble and Borders bookstores and select newsstands. Ask for it by name at your local surf shop! Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing

Watch Board Stories on Channel 12, or 112 digital in Hawai`i or at OC16.tv

contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates is not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

Mon 2:00pm Tue 11:30am

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712

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E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2015

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Please recycle this magazine, mahalo.


EDITOR’S NOTE

Caribbean dream. Photo Burkard / Massif

AN ESCAPE Ah the Travel issue. One of the most beautiful and versatile editions we produce, with the kinds of images that make you want to book the next flight to somewhere, anywhere international. This issue is a tricky one because we are inundated with beautiful photos from all corners of the earth. From the wave-happy coastline of West Oz to the world-class beach breaks of mainland Mexico to the well-groomed lines of Indo, there are so many surf trips to consider yet only so many pages in Freesurf. Thankfully, this one is packed with travel beauty. This month we’re taking you on an international journey to show you what some of the sport’s top athletes scored this summer season. Our Aperture gallery mixes global treks with Hawai‘i homebody benefits (a spin off of last year’s “Staycation”) while our feature (page 34) introduces you to some fresh views of familiar locales and tests your knowledge of popular surf destinations. And if you thought your travel experience was challenging or lengthy, flip to page 66 to see how the crew aboard the Hōkūle‘a handles rough seas. Try complaining about leg room or turbulence after reading this insightful piece. The Freesurf crew satisfied our wanderlust this season through inter island travel, finding waves on Maui thanks to hurricane Guillermo. The North Shore even saw a few small swells too this summer, and with El Nino strengthening into the winter months, looks like we’re headed straight for epic surf here in Hawai‘i. From the south shore season straight to the north… the ocean is staying busy and we like it that way. Even if you haven’t traveled this summer, you can still find cerebral escape through these pages and dream up your future surf trip. But don’t go too far… the North Shore is just waking up.

Lauren Rolland Associate Publisher / Editor


Keoki

NEWS & EVENTS /

Myles Sahetapy-Engel catching air.

T&C/DAKINE/STEREO SUNBURN CLASSIC By Lauren Rolland with Keoki Saguibo On a hot summer Saturday, pros and amateurs from all over the island invaded the Hawai’i Kai skatepark for the T&C/Dakine/Stereo Sunburn Classic, where athletes had the chance to show their skating skills and nab some awesome prizes. Dakine and Stereo skate pros Walker Ryan, Jordan Hoffart and Chris Haslam dropped in for a demo, while local talents like Evan Mock, Chris Miyashiro, Malakai Montes and more helped inspire the younger generations of skater groms. The entry fee for the event was one canned food item, and all food collected was donated back to a local food bank. This skate event was just one of the many ways T&C Skateboards gives back to the community. The top three division winners took home trophies, while grand prizes were divvied up and the champs took home Globe and Penny skateboards, plus a couple decks from Plan B, Real and Almost. Congrats to Ian Tamanaha (winner of 10-13 Division), Griffin Anderson (14-17), David Quan (18 & Over) and Malakai Montes (sponsored division) on their first place wins. Prize packs and giveaways also included shwag from brands like Stussy, Globe, Brixton, Catch Surf, RVCA, Spit Fire, Stance, Mizo, Hydro Flask and more while other goodies were raffled off to stoke out each and every grom. Families and supporters posted up under tents and trees and cheered on the skaters as they carved, grinded and kickflipped around the cement park. Special store entry winners had the privilege of joining the Dakine and Stereo pros at a private skate demo at the Hickam Hangar skate park the following day for more personalized skate action. This secret session also allowed the lucky winners to invite one of their comrades to join them

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NEWS & EVENTS / Keoki

in the private skate demo with the pros – an experience like no other. Amid the giveaways and lunch from dedicated sponsors and the show of talent and precision from skateboarding’s top artistes, there was a skate-off among the groms in the Hangar bowl for the best move. Miles Sahetapy-Engel wowed the crowd and walked away with a brand new deck presented by Walker Ryan and Stereo Skateboards. The T&C/Dakine/Stereo Sunburn Classic amateur skate contest was an entertaining way for groms and their families to spend the weekend. Skaters island-wide delighted in the occasion to skate two awesome parks and head home with awesome prizes from their favorite brands.

4TH ANNUAL LIVE LIKE SION GROMFEST

The crew at Hickam hangar.

Goodie bags galore!

By Jason Jopling | Photos Tai Vandyke Keiki converged at PK’s beach on the South side of Kauai to join in on the 4th annual LIVE LIKE SION Gromfest. Sion Milosky was well known in the surfing community not only for his respect and love for surfing, but also for passing the sport on to future generations. This memorial contest carries on that tradition, which was so very important to him. With partly cloudy skies, light offshore winds and pumping waves thanks to the remnants of hurricane Hilda, conditions were perfect. Kids 16 and under and from all over the island entered the contest to showcase the up-and-coming surf talent on Kauai. The first heat hit the water around 7am with various heats continuing throughout the day, lasting until about 4pm. A few standouts were the 6-8 year old division competitors who straight out ripped! The judges couldn’t believe what they were witnessing. Both boys and girls were equally impressive. Around noon was the Keiki Push-In, where there were about 50 participants, including Andy Irons’ son, Axel. Escorted out to the break by his mom, Lyndie, Axel grabbed everyone’s attention by charging each wave and showing no fear, just like his father.

The amount of support by the community was tremendous. Throughout the day there were free giveaways and raffles, even a free lunch for all who observed. At the top of every hour was the chance to win awesome swag thanks to the sponsors. All of the proceeds from the raffles went back to the LIVE LIKE SION foundation. In the evening, the awards ceremony took place at Kukuiula Harbor. With the sun setting in the background, each grom received a trophy for participating in the contest. Manu Nalu stood out in multiple heats, earning himself the Grom of the Day award.


NEWS & EVENTS / Awards gathering.

Kudos to the families, sponsors and volunteers for making the contest a total success. A great deal of hard work and time goes into making this event better each year. The Milosky family couldn’t have asked for a better community to represent Sion’s love for surfing and the keiki.

IBA SANDYS 2015

Heff

Will Scovel gifts a grom one of his shapes.

By Tyler Rock

The IBA Hawai’i Tour brought its second stop to Sandy Beach on the southeast shore of Oahu. Well known as a bodyboarding mecca, the Sandys venue of the Half Point reef is one of the most popular stops for the bodyboard tour. Day one of the event featured the Men’s and Women’s Pro field as well as the newly added Master’s division and a mix of south and east swell provided plenty of wedges to boost. In the Men’s Pro Division, it was a close battle between two legends, with Jeff Hubbard just edging out Guilherme Tamega. The second day of the event highlighted the Junior Pro, Drop Knee Pro, and Stand Up divisions in the cleaned up conditions. The Junior Pro division saw Waimanalo’s own Kawika Kamai take out the win for the second event in a row, but this time at his home break. Dave Hubbard, high lining his way to another win.

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N e w s & E vent s /

S H O W

Heff

NEWS & EVENTS /

R O O M

B I K I N I S , C LOT H E S & A CC E S S O R I E S

Heff

Kawika Kamai

Perhaps the most intriguing new division for the IBA Hawai’i Tour is the Stand Up bodyboarding division. A throwback to the early days of bodyboarding, this resurgence always provides exciting rides as well as funny wipeouts. Taking the top place this time was Maui’s Mack Crilley who wowed the judges with a smooth snap to reverse. Next up for the IBA Hawai’i Tour is stop number three, set to take place on the Big Island of Hawai‘i. Final Results:

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Men’s Pro 1st Jeff Hubbard 2nd Guilherme Tamega 3rd Kahekili Labatte 4th David Phillips Women’s Pro 1st Karla Costa-Taylor 2nd Melanie Bartels 3rd Lindsey Yasui 4th Daniela Ronquillo

Junior Pro 1st Kawika Kamai 2nd Cordon Stapp 3rd Tanner McDaniel 4th Matthew O’Rourke Drop Knee 1st David Hubbard 2nd Cole Hansen 3rd Dayton Wago 4th Mack Crilley Masters 1st Berrios Cordova 2nd Pat Caldwell 3rd John Kamai 4th Ben Severson 5th Keith Sasaki Stand Up 1st Mack Crilley 2nd Kawika Kamai 3rd David Hubbard 4th Landon Gaspar


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MAXIMIZE YOUR NEXT INTERNATIONAL SURF TRIP By Sean Walker | Photos courtesy Waterways 1 Pack light, but bring all the essentials. Make sure you bring all your surf gear with plenty of sunscreen, wax, extra fins/leashes, leash strings, ding repair, etc. Unless you’re going to a place like Bali or Costa Rica, which has all the surf stuff available there, you will want to make sure you bring everything you need with you. Bring enough clothes for the climate you expect, but always bring a pair of long pants and light jacket, even if you’re headed to the tropics. You never know when you might encounter rain or mosquitos. And leave the laptop at home unless needed for work, since cell phones and tablets are much lighter and wireless internet is available in more remote areas than ever before.      2 Research the area you are going to ahead of time including best waves and optimal conditions. Between Google Earth and the internet’s universe of information, you can now pick out the hotels or surf resorts that are within walking distance to the wave you want. Nowadays you can even plan out the best way to approach the reef and channel – the internet has sure made things easy.   3 Bring the right surfboards for the type of waves you are seeking, and base it on the latest surf forecasts. Bringing your normal go to board is a must for most trips, plus bringing other boards based on the type of waves you’re heading to (beach breaks, reefs, point breaks, etc.). Then make any last minute adjustments based on the forecasts.      4 Buy travel insurance. Even if you think you’ll never need it, it just takes one bad accident to end your search for epic waves. You’d be surprised how often this can happen out of the water too, like in Bali, where motorbikes injure more surfers than the reefs. Most insurance plans cover medical coverage and transportation (med-evac) and baggage loss/delay, with additional trip cancellation/interruption coverage available for pre-paid package trips like surf resorts and boat charters. Most boat charters and remote surf camps require that guests have travel insurance, but we recommend it for any surf trip.   5 Always respect the locals. If you can give a wave, some of your belongings, or even just a smile, it tends to come back ten-fold and can melt the coldest of situations. And don’t forget a ton of stickers for the local groms! 


GROM REPORTing /

MY INDONESIA DREAM By Kaiser Auberlen

I recently went on a trip with my family to Indonesia. It was amazing. The trip was broken up into three parts – five days in Kuta, ten days on the island of Roti and a week staying at a house on the Bukit right above Bingin.

We took some time off from surfing to visit the local school in Nembrala where we brought a bunch of school supplies for the kids. The locals were super happy and it felt good to help out the school. Giving is good!

The first couple days we surfed the beach breaks around Kuta. Padma was right in front of our hotel and it was pretty fun and not too crowded. My dad rented a scooter and we cruised around the city looking for waves and seeing cool shops. It was super crazy because the traffic is really gnarly. We surfed a spot called Halfway with my friends Paumalu and Dhani. It was a super fun left and right peak. On the third day we took a trip up to Bingin. It was one of the most perfect waves I have ever seen and I got some of the best barrels of my life.

For the last part of our trip we went back to Bali and stayed at a house right above my new favorite wave, Bingin. During that time the swell of the year came in, and it was huge. Uluwatu and Impossibles were 12ft+. It was amazing to see. We surfed some secret beach breaks that were really fun too. The remaining days were spent surfing the barrels at Bingin and it was amazing – perfect 3 to 5ft. with epic conditions.

During our session at Bingin I was lucky enough to meet some really nice local guys from the Bingin Boardriders club, Uncle Steamy and Tommy Barrel. They took me under their wing and helped me get a lot of waves. It was awesome! It was tough to leave Bali, but we were off to a new adventure, which took us to the village of Nembrala on the island of Roti where we surfed this sick wave called T-Land. The wave is super long and perfect. I got the longest wave of my life. My Rip Curl GPS watch said I went 275 yards!! The whole time we were there it never got under 3ft. The wave is really rippable and you can do a bunch of turns and go super fast. It’s really cool because you go out to the wave with a boat. There’s nothing better than jumping off of a boat into perfect surf. The sunsets were like a painting. 26

My trip to Indonesia was amazing. We got great waves, got to explore really cool places and best of all met some amazing new friends. I can’t wait to go back!


FIJI Field Notes with

Ulu Napeahi Photos: Servais

Danny Fuller screaming through a Fijian tube.

A

As surfers we prepare ourselves by surfing everyday for trips like these; however, the trip to Fiji was really last minute. I was helping Makua Rothman pack his boards, and he tells me, "Brah, what are you doing? Book a ticket!" Without hesitation, I scrambled to get my ticket booked as soon as possible, threw some of my favorite DHD boards in a bag, and packed a backpack of clothes. It was a no brainer. Me being a goofy footer all I could think about were long lefts, big barrels, and dry reef. But at the moment, I really had no clue what I was getting myself into, I just knew it would be a dream come true. I discovered that Makua and I would be meeting up with guys like Danny Fuller, Reef McIntosh, Dane Gudauskas, and Balaram Stack. I was so ready!


Dane Gudauskas

Ulu Napeahi

“ Brah, what are you doing? Book a ticket!”


Ulu Napeahi maintaining poise through the froth.

M

My entire life I looked up to this group of humans as "super stars," and I always wanted to be just like them. So being with this group for me was out of this world. On our adventure everyone got along so well. It was the typical surf trip - sharing stories, laughing, and overall psyched to surf. We all were there for the same reason, to get barreled out of our minds. Because I was the youngest out of the group, I acted as a sponge and tried to gain as much knowledge as I could from these guys.  When we got to Fiji, the forecast was showing some really good surf in the 6 to 8ft. range with some 12ft. sets. Sure enough when we showed up at Cloudbreak, we got just what we expected. The waves were absolutely flawless! And I could not believe I was there. I surfed literally eight hours a day and there's no place I would rather be than right there in that moment.

32


I was amazed at the surfing that was taking place. The level of charging and barrel riding was set at the highest standard. It was an honor and privilege to watch it all go down. Personally, I think Dane Gudauskas got the best wave of the trip. It was a bigger wave that missed the outside section of the reef and swung wide to the inside bowl. It held its size, so when it hit the reef it just boxed out into a big beautiful barrel. Not to mention he was positioned as deep as you could possibly be. That ride stood out the most to me. It was my first time surfing Cloudbeak. Surprisingly, I was really comfortable out there. I got to learn quickly a lot about the wave and how it forms across the long stretch of reef. I also learned quickly how you can get absolutely pounded! It was at that size when the inside double ups were the good ones. But there were also random freak sets that would break right on your head every now and then. I would say we all took a fair share of beatings from duck diving and getting blown to the lagoon and by having sets land on our heads; however, Makua got it the worst hahaha.

Ulu.


Albee Layer

T

The main reason why I love traveling is experiencing and learning about new cultures and their traditions. Fijians are pure with culture and have a great understanding of the importance of carrying on their traditions. And they happen to be some of the nicest humans who respect everyone and everything. I am so blessed to have gained all that I experienced. Thanks to everyone who came together and helped make this trip happen.Â

Makua Rothman


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Words by Lauren Rolland, Blake Lefkoe, Tyler Rock & Keoki Saguibo

Much of the earth’s coastline has been discovered by surfers seeking perfect waves, and you can’t blame us right? We live in a diverse world where surf ranges from beach breaks and slabs to barreling lefts and rampy rights. The ocean can be sparkling clear or take on a deeper hue of blue. Shorelines are lined with anything from coconut trees to rugged mountains, million-dollar resorts to shantytowns. The world’s waves are a magnet for any surfer seeking international adventure and Freesurf gets to debut some of the roaming that takes place each year in our annual Travel Issue. We’re sure as an avid surfer you’ve probably seen a fair share of exposure on most popular surf destinations. Many of these spots have been labeled as ‘dream surf destinations’ and it’s becoming increasingly easy to name these familiar breaks just based off a photo. But instead of producing the typical Travel Issue feature, we’ve designed something a little different… A little more than just the normal assembly of beautiful images. How well do you know surf destinations based on their unique characteristics? Would you be able to name a country based on their bordering sea? Or currency name? Or local drink? How about by their water temperature or high season for surf? We’ve gathered images and info from four places that you’re likely to have seen in most other surf mags, but check out the insight on each location to see if you can guess the place/wave based on our insider information. The answers are easy to find, but first, give it a shot and test your international knowledge of surfing.

Coralie Demeautis

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Majority of the surf breaks are reef passes that usually require a boat to the breaks.

The country is made up of seven islands and is known as the “Queen of the Pacific.”

Best time to travel for surf is from June through September.

Renting a car for a week is equivalent to half a month’s rent in Hawai‘i.

Brent Bielmann

:


?


Brent Bielmann

:

Don’t drink the tap!

When the winds aren’t right for surf but there’s swell, you can head to the other islands to find better waves.

Canoe paddling is a top sport.

The ferry system is a great way to explore the other islands.


Brent Bielmann

Fish is one of the main staples of protein – you’ll have it in almost every meal.

Hotels are pricey, so linking up with a local family is a very good idea. Prices for amenities are higher than most under developed countries.

Bring all your surf gear. It’s hard to find a surf shop here.

?T

Rock fish are present in the waters surrounding these islands… beware.

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There is 1,500 miles of coastline.

Hank Gaskell

Tons of diverse breaks - beach, point, reefs, heavy, cruisey, hollow, lefts, rights and a lot of spots that get really, really long.

Lots of empty beaches you can camp and surf at. If you like camping, you can almost always just pitch a tent on the beach. A lot of traveling surfers buy small camping vans, VW buses, or trucks with camper shells and live out of them for the season.

There are plenty of spots for beginners, intermediate and advanced surfers here.

Consistent, year round surf, but the waves are best and biggest April through October. Southern swells work best for most spots.

Odds are if you’re not surfing, hiking or swimming in a river, you’re lying in a hammock in the shade. Very mellow, laid back atmosphere. It’s an island mentality here.

Laserwolf

:


Photos Brent

Water temperature is in the 80’s year round, so you need nothing but board shorts and bikinis. A rashguard for strong sun is a good idea too.

Lots of restaurants near surf breaks, many of which cater to surfers. Campgrounds, surf camps and palapas have communal kitchens as well, or serve very affordable meals.

Anthony Walsh

Jamie O’Brien

?M

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Alex Smith

Beautiful scenery is abundant - green mountains, green rice paddies, lush jungle, an insane amount of coconut trees and beaches that look like they should be on a postcard.

Like anywhere, crime can be an issue, but if you are careful, friendly and stay under the radar you’ll most likely not encounter anything worse than petty theft (and probably not even that).

Brent Bielmann

:

Here you’ll find friendly locals with the biggest smiles in the world, but also the world’s scariest roads filled with the world’s craziest drivers.


Brent Bielmann

:

If you venture off the beaten path you can find great, virtually empty waves.

Lots of long, hollow lefts. (Rights too, but we won’t tell you where).

Shallow, sharp reefs. Booties and first aid kits are a good idea.

Summer season is best, since it catches the south swells.

Warm water and hot, sunny weather. All surfing is done in either board shorts or bikinis.


Mick Curley Brent Bielmann Brent Bielmann

Be prepared to drink your weight in Bintang.

Here there is an incredible culture with a long history. If you can pry yourself away from the beach, there is a lot to see and learn.

Bargain, bargain, bargain for everything.

?

There are a thousand waves you’ve never heard of before.

When your $5/night room says, “includes breakfast” don’t expect more than a pancake and piece of fruit.

I N D O N E S I A


Frieden

:

Head south to the main surf town for a mix of country living, wine, and diverse lineups with rights, lefts, reefs, and sand. Or head up the coast to get lost in the desert and find some world-class left hand reef point breaks. While there are a few spots for beginners, in general this zone offers quality surf for the experienced surfer.

Best months are during this destination’s winter season, from March through October.

Water temperatures can range here, and you could need anything from a spring suit or jacket top to a 3/2 full wetsuit. It’s not too cold, but often times cool.

Everything from mellow beach breaks to the craziest slabs you’ve ever seen, here you’ll find a wave-rich zone with lots of swell and the setups that can handle it.

Be wary of the unwanted visitor in the grey suit…

Some waves require a bit of a hike to find, but when you do, it’ll all be worth it.

In between surfs, explore a nature preserve or sample some of the regions wineries. Or just kick back and enjoy a nice sunset with a cold Cooper’s in your hand.

Pristine water, gorgeous scenery and relaxed crowds.


Photos Brent Jack Robinson

John John Florence

Jack Robinson

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Flynn Novak, flying above the Waimea Bay shorebreak. Photo: Keoki

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Tahiti’s Matahi Drollett remaining calm under high water pressure.Photo: Brent Bielmann


Kalani David accumulating air miles far south of the border. Photo: Nelly


Micah Nickens, on Hawaiian staycation. Photo: Rock


Koa Smith behind an Indonesian emerald curtain. Photo: Brent Bielmann


W H E R E P R O S T R A V E L

SURFERS INTERNATIONAL Check out where some of surfing’s best traveled to this summer.

Portugal

Cali Hawai’i Puerto Escondido Costa Rica

FLA

Bermuda

Japan

Caribbean Maldives Mentawais

Bali

Samoa Fiji Tavarua Tahiti

Jon Pyzel – Samoa, Japan, Mentawais, Costa Rica and California.

Flynn Novak – Indonesia

Uluboi Napeahi – Martinique (Caribbean), Fiji, Japan.

Shane Dorian – Maldives

Trevor Carlson – Puerto Escondido, Mexico.

Paige Alms – Tavarua

Garrett McNamara – Puerto Escondido, Florida, NYC, Bermuda,

CJ Kanuha – Mexico, Indo and throughout the California Coast (Big

Portugal.

Sur, Hollister Ranch & from San Diego to Malibu).

Zak Noyle – California (the Wedge and Huntington Beach), Fiji and

Hank Gaskell – Salina Cruz, Mexico and Southern California.

Kandui (Mentawais). Kohl Christensen – Alaska, Northern California, Oregon, Chile, Monyca Eleogram – Japan, Tahiti and Ireland.

Madagascar, South Africa, France, Japan, Spain (Basque Country), Amsterdam, Nequay, Cornwall, England, Tahiti, Fiji, Big island,

Pancho Sullivan – Samoa, Tavarua (Fiji), Florida and California.

Molokai, Kauai, Lanai.

Keala Kennelly – Mentawais, Nias, Bali, LA and Tahiti.

Emi Erickson – Southern California, Puerto Escondido, Salina Cruz, Jeffrey’s Bay and Cape Town.

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LIVING PONO /

WAVES 4 WATER By Shelby Welinder Photos Ethan Lovell

Christian Driggs stands on a dirt road surrounded by darkness, lit up only from the occasional passing headlights and burst of lightning in the night sky. When visible, I see the leading team member wipe sweat from his brow. The Waves for Water (W4W) crew is rearranging supplies in an old-school Toyota 4Runner to accommodate me for the long drive. We journeyed through a ghost city with no traffic. It was eerie to imagine that Kathmandu is home to a million people—or at least was—before the earthquake. As we traveled north, we saw blocked roads, destroyed homes and entire neighborhoods reduced to rubble. It was hard to believe that there were previously any signs of life. W4W had finished another extensive day in the field, aiding rural villages that had yet to receive any type of assistance. The NGO had been on the ground since the devastating earthquake on April 25th, supplying water filters to the Nepali people. Driggs explained their frontline endeavors as we traveled the winding, mountainous terrain to where we were expected as guests for dinner that evening. 60

Later, as we gorged on yak cheese, goat meat and local beer, Driggs noted a combination of factors - the earthquake’s close proximity to the densely populated city, lack of solid infrastructure, high magnitude and shallow depth – that all translated into massive loss of life and damage of epic proportions. Like many of the disasters zones W4W have responded to, Nepal was already in great need of a clean water program (as cholera is an ongoing problem). The first strategic implementation in their ‘Nepal Relief Initiative’ focused on the hardest hit areas of the disaster zone, and entailed them to distribute portable water filtration systems to community centers, refugee camps and individual families. The second phase has consisted of executing long-term solutions including rainwater harvesting systems for schools and medical clinics, restoring dead wells/pumps and expanding the relief efforts beyond ground zero. Since the earthquake, W4W has been incorporating this framework with local POC's (points of contact) such as civilian-operated Himalayan alpine guide groups that have extensive knowledge of the region as well as our program; UN Nepalese military battalions, providing air and land support to otherwise inaccessible rural communities; and a US Army Civil Affairs Team stationed in Kathmandu. Collaborating with international leaders and strategic partners, these teams employ hard work and a no-nonsense attitude to the many challenges at hand.


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Sustainability is W4W’s main goal. By interacting with locals and understanding their needs, they’re able to teach and empower communities. The initiative’s success is evident once they’re able to remove themselves from the region, having created self-reliant residents. They are devoutly un-promotional in their operations, choosing to avoid the “selfies” and press opportunities that often encircle relief efforts. Unlike many organizations that have a general plan for every country, W4W designs each project on a case-by-case basis. This guerrilla style humanitarianism allows them to operate fast, cutting through the usual slow chain of command and approval process common in disaster situations. W4W created the Clean Water Courier program based on a do-it-yourself model. Sponsored by brands like Hurley and Nike, it’s designed to bring clean water to catastrophe-stricken areas. Clean Water Couriers are just everyday people who distribute filters around the globe. The program encourages travelers to enlist by “packing a few filters in your suitcase” and helping make a huge difference for communities in distress. A partnership with the World Surf League (WSL), along with contributors Rob Machado, Kelly Slater, Carissa Moore, Lakey Peterson and Dane Zaun (to name a few), have proven the organization’s creation emerged from the surfing community. As their motto states, “Do what you love and help along the way.” Founder and pro surfer Jon Rose was transitioning from his athletic career when he was aboard a boat off the coast of Sumatra during a surf trip and suddenly felt a slight shake. He had no way of knowing that a 7.6 magnitude earthquake had just destroyed the city of Padang – with more than 1,000 lives lost and 100,000 left homeless – until he came ashore and saw the devastated city. Jon happened to be en route to Bali to deliver water filters for what would have been his first W4W mission. But with tragedy striking Sumatra, armed with a board bag in one hand and a duffle bag with ten filters in the other, he made his way through the crumbled buildings in the early hours after the quake. Rose delivered water filters into the hands of rescue workers to help the overwhelmed country and wounded victims. It was at that moment Jon’s life would change, and in turn, so would the lives of countless others who would soon have access to clean water. On March 22nd of this year, W4W celebrated World Water Day with a #NoFilter campaign on Instagram. For every no filter image posted, they made one gallon of clean water accessible with their crews working in 12 different countries. Supporters like Red Bull, supermodel Gisele Bundchen and athlete Neymar made the campaign a success that resulted in 116 million no filter hashtags.

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LIVING PONO /

In addition to changing perceptions with their presence on social media, W4W has raised awareness of this alarming issue. Sadly, 750 million people (about one in nine) lack access to clean water. More than twice that many, 2.5 billion people (one-third of the world's population) do not have adequate sanitation. Universal access to safe drinking water is a fundamental need and human right. Yet for every minute it takes to read this article, a child will die from a water-related disease—that’s over 1,400 children a day. As creator and pro surfer Jon Rose states, “The issue isn’t technology, it’s accessibility,” proving that the global water crisis is a solvable problem. W4W’s mission is simple: get clean water to every single person who needs it. Just one of their filtration systems can provide 100 people with one million gallons of clean water for up to five years. To date, they’ve distributed over 100,000 filters in dozens of countries around the world and have provided access to clean water for over 7.5 million people. As a result, W4W is breaking the stereotype of what it means to be an NGO, not only are they saving lives but redefining humanitarian aid. pau


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HŌKŪLE‘A Q&A WITH HAUNANI KANE & JASON PATTERSON

The Hōkūle‘a is one of Hawai’i’s most regal symbols of ancient culture. With its triangular shaped sails and traditional double hull, the voyaging canoe is a source of pride, appreciation and dignity for the indigenous Hawaiian people. The nostalgic sailing vessel is 62 feet long by 20 feet wide and was designed by the late Herb Kawainui Kāne, an artist, historian and one of the founders of the Polynesian Voyaging Society. The Hōkūle‘a, which is the Hawaiian name for the star Arcturus, was built in 1975 and first launched on the east side of Oahu off the sands of Kualoa. In its wake sparked a revival of culture, navigation, tradition, language and art for the native people and has today become a figure of cultural perpetuation. Carrying anywhere from 10-13 crew members during a deep sea voyage, the Hōkūle‘a provides a training ground for young navigators to learn the voyaging techniques of the early Polynesians, plus gain experiences on the open sea like no other. Guided by the stars, the Hōkūle‘a has traveled between the North Pacific and South Pacific Oceans and beyond to Tahiti, New Zealand, Easter Island, Tonga, the Marquesas Islands, the Cook Islands, Micronesia and Japan. Traveling as crew members aboard the Hōkūle‘a, Haunani Kane and Jason Patterson gave Freesurf some interesting insight about what it’s like to voyage the deep sea in the traditional sailing canoe.

How long does a voyager prepare before their first journey on the Hōkūleʻa? What is this process like? Jason: It really doesn’t matter how much time a crew member is given to prepare for their first deep sea voyage aboard Hōkūle‘a, no one is ever fully prepared for how much they will grow on that trip and how Hōkūle‘a will change them through that journey. My first ever sail on Hōkūle‘a wasn’t a deep sea trek, it was an inter island sail to Ni‘ihau. We planned and studied and prepped for six weeks and at the end

of the trip I was fundamentally a different person. It changed the way I viewed myself and the way I viewed the world around me. You can’t prepare for that, because you can’t anticipate the profound affect the canoe, voyage and crew will have on you, especially if it’s your first time. And that profound impact happens on each voyage. Haunani: Some people may say that they’ve trained their entire lives for their deep sea voyage. Each person has a different kuleana or responsibility on the canoe. There are certain things you can “train for” but a lot of the actual learning and growing occurs while at sea. Before we left for Tahiti last summer we went over safety training, fitness training, and sailing. During dry dock we were able to learn about the canoes from the inside out as we helped to rebuild them.   What typical things does a voyager bring on board? Haunani: Each crew member is limited to bringing only what can fit within a 50 quart cooler. Foul weather gear (water proof jackets and pants) is a must as well as a pair of good sunglasses, sunscreen, water bottle and thermos, knife, a few surfshorts, t-shirts, a warm jacket and long pants. We also like to bring snacks.

What type of food does the crew eat during the voyage? Haunani: The fisherman and the cook are some of the most important people on canoe. Fresh fish always makes everyone happy. We also pack canned and dried fruits, veggies, and meats. Our logistics team is awesome and they’ve come up with a six-day rotation of meals and depending upon the cook they may supplement things here or there. Typical meals include poke, sashimi, fried fish, fish pasta, spaghetti, curry, saimin, bean salad, etc… We cook all of our meals using propane stove so the cooks can get pretty creative. Jason: We eat all kinds of food that doesn’t need to be refrigerated, I like to joke that we’re on a “see” food diet. If we see it we eat it, we’re always constantly snacking. And for that reason crew members bring a lot of personal snacks from home. A deep sea voyage is a very


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LOCAL STYLE TRAVEL / physically demanding endeavor and because of that our logistics team has done a great job creating and supplying us with a meal plan that rotates as many times as necessary for the planned duration of the voyage. Also we’re always looking forward to catching a fish. We troll from sunrise to sunset, and if we’re lucky enough to get one or two, we will supplement that in for our meal. 

stars, the sun, swells, wind, etc. We also determine speed by counting how long it takes for the bubbles in the water to travel a measured distance along the canoe.

What type of modern day tools/items are onboard?

Both: Your fellow crew member’s safety is your top priority. You’re there with family and it is your responsibility to take care of them. You represent much more than just yourself and things much greater than you. You are voyaging for those who have come before you, for those

Sam Kapoi

Both: We have an array of modern tools. In alignment with Malama Honua, we have solar panels on the back of the canoe that powers

What are the most important things to remember when traveling aboard the Hōkūleʻa?

Nainoa Thompson.

all of our electronic equipment, most of which is for safety. These include the running lights that allow other vessels to see us, VHF radios to communicate with our escort vessel or any other vessels in the area and an Automated Identification System (AIS) to see the size, heading and speed of those vessels if they’re not communicating by radio. We also have documentation equipment onboard: camera, laptop, microphone, iPad and mini satellite to keep us connected to the schools back home and around the world. What type of ancient tools/items/methods is used for travel? Both: One of the main objectives of this world wide voyage is to graduate a group of young navigators with the competency to carry on the traditional art of non-instrumental celestial navigation. The main ancient tool that we are using is our mind and memory. We need to memorize a lot and we’re constantly reviewing and quizzing each other before the voyage, because even after all of that sometimes it still feels like we haven’t memorized enough for the sail. The navigator helps the crew steer the canoe using known directional clues like the

who have worked so that you could sail and the next generations that are yet to come. What type of modern day creature comforts do you miss most during long days at sea? Jason: Refrigeration and constant water pressure. Haunani: For a lot of us we miss our families back home. There’s also the small comforts like hot, freshwater showers, cold or fresh food like ice cream etc.    What are the biggest differences between Hōkūleʻa style travel and modern day travel? Jason: With Hōkūle‘a style travel you are totally immersed in the journey and that’s the real adventure, you are never completely out of the elements, and if you’re navigating you’re responsible for getting everyone to the destination. Modern day travel you are totally


S E D A H S A Z U K A H S


LOCAL STYLE TRAVEL /

Jason’s packing list.

removed from the journey and the adventure usually begins at the destination. For many crew members, spotting the island is bitter sweet, because they know that for the most part their journey has come to an end. Haunani: The biggest difference is probably the concept of time. The fastest voyage to Tahiti on Hōkūle‘a took nearly 17 days. Also for the voyagers, the most exciting parts of the voyage usually happen while at sea. The voyage is about both the destination and the things you learned and experienced while getting there.   In your opinion, what is the most impressive part about the crew and their journey? Both: The most impressive part about the crew would be the way they treat each other. Everyone on the canoe is family and you get to watch and help each other grow, even be surprised by it. And it’s through this that you create really strong bonds with your crew members. You get to watch your friends ascend to new levels in leadership and help them get there and in doing that you can’t help but feel extremely proud for them and for the canoe, because you know that their success is ultimately everyone’s success. What is the most fulfilling part about traveling on the Hōkūleʻa? Both: One of the most fulfilling parts about traveling on Hōkūle‘a is knowing that you are able to share the canoe with people from all over the world. It’s pretty amazing to see how excited and curious people get when they see the canoe for the first time. For many island people, canoes are representative of their first people. It’s really special to be a part of that. pau


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SHE RIPS /

ALOHA LOPEZ By Kiva Rivers

Over the last few years, Maui has ascended into the limelight more than ever before. The Valley Isle has its first ever WSL surfer on tour, is regularly showcasing incredible free surfing talents and has bred some of the world’s best big wave surfers. Nowadays, it should come at no surprise that the island of Maui is producing big players that are here to stay. The talented and beautiful Aloha Lopez is among these hybrid Maui surfers. Raised in Kahana on the west side, Aloha has been able to surf the fun and challenging waves that Maui offers – and is notorious for – on any given day. At just sixteen years old, Ms. Lopez is already making a mark as a surfer with style, power and competitive edge. Whether Aloha is in the barrel at her favorite wave, on a SUP, or just having fun with friends hanging ten on her longboard, you can be sure that this wahine is always wearing a smile and a positive attitude, both in and out of the water. DOB: 4/2/99 School/Grade: James Madison High School / Junior Hometown: Kahana, Maui Home break: Honolua Bay Favorite board: 5’10” Stalk It. I ride the Aloha model shaped by Matt Kinoshita. Favorite Instagram: @Benjibrand has been posting some really cool pictures lately. Check out @allaloha to see my feed. 72

How did you get into surfing and how long have you been surfing for? Both of my parents surf. They started taking me and my brother to the beach as soon as we were born. I would ride on the front of their boards and by the time I was four, I started surfing by myself. We moved to Northern California in 2005 and I would only surf two or three times a year at a little break in Bolinas. Finally, we moved back to Maui in 2010, I started surfing everyday. What do you enjoy most about being in the ocean? I enjoy how the ocean changes all the time. In the morning you can be in the line up with your friends waiting for the swell to arrive and later that afternoon be surfing amazing waves. The changing ocean inspires me to be creative. Freesurfing versus competition, which do you enjoy most and why? I like freesurfing because you can have fun with your friends and mess around, but I really love competitive surfing. Competitive surfing pushes me to test my limits. Getting to surf great breaks with just a couple other people is priceless. I mean how often do you get to surf a place like Honolua Bay with just a couple of other people?


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SHE RIPS /

I love traveling and surfing. I have surfed throughout Hawai‘i, Mexico and California. I am looking forward to exploring the world and surfing best breaks with my friends. Dream travel destination? Some places I hope to visit soon are Fiji and Australia. Where is your favorite wave to surf on Maui and off Maui? What surfers inspire you the most in and out of the water? Stephanie Gilmore is one of my favorite surfers. Her surfing is so graceful yet powerful. She surfs with so much style. I am impressed at how humble she seems even though she has won many world titles. Steph is always smiling. What other hobbies do you enjoy besides surfing? Lately, I have been spending a lot of time on my longboard skateboard. When there are no waves, I will take my SUP out and explore the coast. I absolutely love to dance and am passionate about healthy eating and living. Do you enjoy surfing bigger or smaller waves? Where have you ridden some of your biggest waves to date? Nothing is better than a big swell. I live across the street from the beach and when a big swell rolls in at night it will wake me up. I will lie in bed waiting for the sun to peak over the mountains so I can go surf. The fun thing about really big swells on Maui is that it makes places break that you would not see on a regular size swell. Last winter, I surfed amazing waves at unexpected places around the island. When the mysto breaks start to fire, I get really excited. Some of the bigger waves I have ridden have been at Sunset Beach, Honolua Bay and Ho’okipa. Where have you traveled for surf?

The Cave at Honolua Bay is my favorite Maui break and La Bamba in Mexico is my favorite off island break. Where do you hope to see yourself in 5 years from now? Five years from now, I hope to be competing on the World Tour. I have a lot of work to do, but that is my goal. What surfing maneuvers are you trying to learn and complete in the near future? Last winter, I was working on pulling into big barrels going backside. I took some serious beatings on the reef but will keep trying again this year. I have also been working on doing an air. I have landed a few, but I would like to do it on a consistent basis. How would you describe your surfing style and approach? I haven’t really thought about it much. Some people have called my surfing powerful, some stylish, some progressive. What are a few of your biggest surfing accomplishments to date? Legends of the Bay Open Women Champion 2015 - Honolua Bay, Maui. The Maui Interscholastic League (MIL) Women’s Surf Champion 2014. Coco Nogales Surf Challenge Open Women Champion - Playa Zicatela, Puerto Escondido, Mexico.

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INDUSTRY NOTES

AccesSurf, a nonprofit organization that helps kids and adults with disabilities enjoy the ocean, has assembled a Hawai’i team that will compete at the first ever ISA adaptive athlete championships. The team is in good hands as they are being trained by surf coach extraordinaire Rainos Hayes. Kauai surfer Mike Coots has joined the team as well, and BioAstin, one of nature’s strongest antioxidants from the Big Island, is sponsoring the athletes. For more info on AccesSurf and the team check out www.accessurf.org

Banzai Bowls just added Tatiana Weston-Webb to its already stacked team of rippers. Joe and Tiana Bard from Banzai Bowls are pumped up about the addition to their team: “We are very excited to have Tatiana a part of our family, not only are we fans of her surfing but we love that she lives a healthy lifestyle. She is very passionate about her family, friends and surfing and shows her aloha spirit where ever she goes. Tatiana is our first CT athlete to be signed to our roster and we couldn't have found a better fit.”

More and more brands seem to be offering environmentally conscious products and Vans has just released their own environmentally conscious footwear. Vans partnered with avid surfer and weaver Charlotte Stone to create a three-piece Vans X Charlotte Stone collection. The collection incorporates ecofriendly materials such as 100% recycled canvas uppers made from repurposed plastic bottles. 76

From October 11-18, in Oceanside CA, the 2015 VISSLA International Surfing Association (ISA) World Junior Surfing Championship will take place. The event will showcase the best under 18 surfers competing for their respective countries. Team Hawai’i aims to continue their success from last year where they won the overall championship title. In 2014, team members Tatiana Weston-Webb won the Under-18 Junior World Championship title and Mahina Maeda won the Under-16 division. This year Mahina Maeda will anchor the team as they look to defend their ISA World Championship title.

International Coastal Cleanup Day is on September 19th. Last year the event helped remove 16 million pounds of trash from over 16,000 miles of coastline in 91 countries. This was thanks to the help of 560,000 volunteers; making the event the largest volunteer effort in the world. Locally, Sustainable Coastlines Hawai’i, Na Kama Kai, and the Surfrider Foundation will host a cleanup on the Westside of Oahu. The cleanup will start at Makua Beach and from there go to Keawa’ula Bay/Kaena Point to Keau Beach Park. For more information on the cleanup check out http://sustainablecoastlineshawaii.org Incase and Kelly Slater are collaborating to create an ‘Action Camera Collection.’ The collection builds off of Incase’s current offerings by adding products geared towards outdoor enthusiasts that are water-resistant and buoyant. The Kelly Slater Pro Pack can carry, store, and protect GoPro cameras and their accessories.

MeshYoga is launching their first ever teacher training program in January 2016 with MeshYoga founder Michelle Lou Lan. The program starts 1/11/16 at their Maui studio - stay tuned for more details. The yoga/dancer/entrepreneur will also have her apparel


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Pyzel Surboards has named Bob Tanner as their new general manager. In this newly created role Tanner will oversee Pyzel Surfboards business operations, as well as develop and execute key strategic initiatives for the brand. Tanner has deep surf industry roots working for 15 years in sales and marketing for brands such as Ocean Minded, Aaron Chang Clothing and Reef. Jon Pyzel commented, “Bob’s unique combination of sales, marketing and retail experience was exactly what we were looking for in this newly created position. This, in conjunction with his deep passion for surfboards, will enable us to carry our current momentum into the future and allow the brand to grow in the proper manner, while not losing sight of our core values.”

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After Mick Fanning’s recent run in with a shark at J-Bay he is ditching his signature ‘yum yum yellow’ airbrushes. Fanning’s new boards from DHD will have blue airbrushes with an assortment of black lines on the bottom. Fanning’s old boards will get a touch up by applying an array of black lines sprayed over the existing yellow, hopefully acting as a shark deterrent.


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