SUMMER in the CITY
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M A D E KU L I ` O U ` O U K I DS • TOW N G O L D E N H O U R • T H E N & N OW • Z A K in Hawai`i
Surfer Kekoa Cazimero Photo Tony Heff
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Throughout the past century and a half, Honolulu has gone through many changes. Diamond Head, formerly known as Leâ€™ahi, has seen it all. Surfer: Kawai Lindo. Photo: Tyler Rock
< Messages Cover Story
By Tony Heff
Friday, May 23 6:34 PM
Don’t forget... Local Motion Surf into Summer this weekend. Friday, May 26 9:45 AM
Where’d you park? The mall. Parking is so eggy. Want lunch? Shooots!! Battery dying. Can you bring me another? Lauren is bringing it now. What heat is this? QF 2 Holy crap it’s so frikin’ hot. Ya... I’m out of here. What’s your plan? Isaiah, Josh, Seth, Kaulana, Noa all going surf Bowls after the comp.. I’m going to stick here and shoot stills. Kekoa Cazimero coming too! Nice. I like that angle. Got the cover shot! Who? Kekoa.
Surfer: Kekoa Cazimero Photo: Tony Heff
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Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic Associate Publisher / Editor Lauren Rolland Photo Editor Tony Heff Art Director John Weaver Multimedia Director Tyler Rock Ambassador-at-Large Chris Latronic Editorial Assistant Sean Reilly Intern Alex Ruybalid Staff Photographers Mike Latronic, Tony Heff, Tyler Rock, Chris Latronic, Brent Bielmann Free Thinkers Daniel Ikaika Ito, Kim Ball, Brent Bearden, Jenna Roberts
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The Town Issue There’s a small part of me that wished I lived in Town. Or at least knew it better. Sure I’m familiar with the more obvious things, like surf breaks, quick eat spots and Kalakaua Avenue, but there’s something to be said about really knowing a city. I lived in Seattle for some time and within six months thought I had downtown down. I knew the one-way streets, all grocery store options, had a library card, even knew the best second hand book stores. But it took longer to really get to know the culture, history and lifestyle of Seattle, as with any urban area. It’s very fulfilling once you do. Town, meaning the Honolulu and Waikīkī areas, is a unique metropolis where businessmen with briefcases mix with surfers in boardshorts. Century-old buildings sit between 21st century high rises, the past and present live in unison. Surfing in Town seems similar to this notion. Waikīkī has maintained its classic look with a sense of nostalgia, while Bowls and Kewalos cater to a more progressive crowd. Whatever it is, there is a dichotomy about Town that is both endearing and fascinating. Which is exactly what we attempted to capture in this issue. Town. Then and Now. Vintage versus contemporary. Old giving way to new. You see it in the streets and in the lineups. Uncles on longboards cruise the same waves they’ve surfed for fifty years, while the youth earn their own right to rip.
A lot of factors came into play in piecing together this issue. I wanted to represent the history and culture of Town while still showcasing the talents and modern-day lifestyle. Freesurf staffers climbed hills and staircases to nab the awesome aerial images you’ll see. ‘Camped’ out at hotels for dawn patrol sessions and event coverage. Made tireless treks down the H-1 for Bishop Museum interviews, Honolulu Surf Film Festival screenings, Rainbow Drive-In visits and of course, our own surf sessions. We learned a lot of things we never knew about the counterpart to our beloved North Shore. All the while, Town maintained its allure and adventure, and kept us eager for more. This issue gives ode to all the many things that make this city a wonderful place to live and surf and I have to admit that at times, I’m envious of the lifestyle. Good thing it’s only 40 miles away. Because whatever you seek- from waves and colorful beaches to history and urban vibes- you can find it in Town.
Lauren Rolland Associate Publisher / Editor
News & Events Kala Willard of Lahainaluna at Lahaina Harbor. Photo: Ric Larsen
Sierra Lerback of Lahainaluna at Hookipa Photo: Mike Stu
Sam Medieros of Baldwin at Hookipa Photo: Mike Stu
Maui Interscholastic League
Klyde Neer of Hana at D.T. Fleming Photo: Ric Larsen
By Kim Ball The Maui Interscholastic League was the first athletic league in the country to have a Department of Education-sanctioned, fully-recognized interscholastic surf season this past spring. This was not an NSSA pay-to-play competition, this was a sport like football, but instead of pads and helmets, the players had boardshorts and surfboards. Surfers could use the weight room, be eligible for athlete-of-the-year and had to pass grade checks. The journey to acceptance was like a 20-year paddle out… always getting close to the peak, but then continually getting beaten down by a clean-up set. There were 19 years of “unofficial” Maui Interscholastic Surf Championships. Even when the Board of Education unanimously passed surfing as a sport in 2004, it was relegated to only club status. Three years ago after Governor Abercrombie- standing with Carissa Moore and other dignitaries next to the Duke statue- proclaimed we would have surfing as a high school sport, it failed to move the high school surfing needle. Last year when the Maui Interscholastic League (MIL) principals voted to include surfing as a sport, it was a victory for the student/athletes. Who would have thought that a surf coach (Hana’s Kelli Everett) would 16
be driving a school bus to a surf meet, or surfers would be going to study hall to be eligible for their high school team? The fact that the Lahainaluna boys and the Baldwin girls became the first MIL surf champions was just a small insider compared to the set wave of eight schools competing in the first MIL season. PK Higa, the King Kekaulike athletic director, said it best, “Surfing reached out to another group of kids on campus and strengthened their connection to school. Once just another face in the crowd, they are student athletes, representatives of their school, and now more than ever have a sense of pride for their school and community”. pau
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News & Events Makua Rothman
Fanning Claims 2014 J-Bay Open Title Current world champ Mick Fanning was on fire during the ASP J-Bay Open, stop No. 6 of 11 on the Samsung Galaxy ASP World Championship Tour. Jeffreys Bay, or J-Bay, in South Africa provided pumping 6 to 8 foot conditions during the Finals between Fanning and fellow compatriot Joel Parkinson. Fanning’s third J-Bay title and second event win of the season has the Australian sitting third in the rankings, while Parko sits second. Check out Freesurf’s next issue for more details on the event, plus a Q&A catch up with Mick to find out about his DHD magic board.
Surfing America USA Championships By Sean Reilly
Makua Rothman Wins 2014 Billabong Pico Alto A huge congratulations to Makua Rothman for claiming victory at the Billabong Pico Alto event in Peru on Thursday, July 3rd. The Hawaiian battled 40-foot seas and competed against a field of 24 of the world’s best watermen in the first event of the 2014/2015 ASP Big Wave World Tour season. “I didn’t even know what was going on during that wave,” Makua said of his 9.40 out of a possible 10. “I thought I was going over the falls, but I figured I’d just try and hang on. I’m just stoked to be here and stoked to win. This is my first event ever on the Big Wave World Tour and I can’t put into words what this means.”
Youth from NorCal, SoCal, East Coast, Hawai’i and Texas tore apart the nations best wave under the microscope of surf media, team managers, frothing spectators and an ASP-certified judging panel. Competitors rose to the challenge and the 2014/2015 USA Surf Team was born. Congratulations to all the champs, especially our Hawai`i athletes, which includes Summer Macedo, Brisa Hennessy, Zoe McDougall, Mainei Kinimaka, Eli Hanneman, Ocean Macedo, Barron Mamiya and Seth Moniz.
1. Makua Rothman (HAW) 27.33 2. Anthony Tashnick (USA) 22.00 3. Shawn Dollar (USA) 20.26 4. Gabriel Villaran (PER) 16.80 5. Grant Baker (ZAF) 16.00 6. Greg Long (USA) 7.00
Highlighting the summer conditions at California’s Lower Trestles, Surfing America’s mission was to put on a competitive show to merit the best junior surfers in the nation. Combining the top athletes from the Western Surfing Association, the National Scholastic Surfing Association, the Hawaiian Surfing Association and the Atlantic Surfing Federation, Surfing America gathered the cream of the crop from around the country to battle it out for National Team spots and USA titles.
Billabong Pico Alto Final Results:
Red Bull Party Wave By Alex Ruybalid On July 13th, Waikīkī beach was lined with handmade water-worthy floats from all over Hawai’i. Eight teams competed in the first ever Red Bull Party Wave at Queens and were scored on creativity, showmanship and wave performance by guest judges Zak Noyle and Carissa Moore. Each team performed a skit based on their float’s theme before paddling out to catch a wave. With Red Bull courage flowing through their veins, the Gnarly Nomads successfully surfed their “Prairie Schooner” themed surf craft to the win, securing a handmade trophy and a trip to the Red Bull Air Races in Las Vegas.
Matt and Sai Moody
Matt Moody grew up surfing in Hawaii since he was a grom. After a nose to the cheek in 93’, nearly missing his eye, and a recent nose to the chin surfing with his son in playful surf, they are now more aware of the dangers of our sport. Here’s what Matt has to say after some unfortunate surfing accidents that came by the way of his board. “After two surfboard noses to the face and two visits to the emergency room, stitches included, I figure the third strike is probably the eye. My son Sai and I use SurfCo Hawaii Nose Guards and Pro Teck fins because we like surfing, not stitches. Use’em or lose’um!” -Matt Moody
Pro Teck Fins have flexible leading and trailing edges that reduce chances of fin cuts and enhance board performance. The flexible trailing edge allows the water to flow off the fin smoother with less turbulence than conventional fins. A “rudder action” occurs while turning the board as water pressure bends the edge, creating tighter more fluid turns, similar to the fins of dolphins. Pro Teck fins are available in three models and a range of sizes for all skill levels of surfing. From the rigid core Performance, medium flex core Power Flex, and flexible core Superflex.
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News & Events Coco Ho
Coco Ho Wins Los Cabos Open 6-Star In late June, the 6-star Los Cabos Open of Surf took place in excellent 4 to 6 foot waves at Zippers in Los Cabos, Mexico. Congratulations to 23-year old Coco Ho, who took home the title, and great job to Kauai’s Brianna Cope who came in second. Australia’s Matt Banting took home the title in the Mens division, which was his second ASP 6-star win this season. Coco, current No. 10 on the Women’s WCT, was a standout throughout the event and maintained her form on the final day of competition. Topping Australian and fellow WCT competitor Dimity Stoyle and Brianna Cope, Coco says she was “definitely on the harder side of the draw, but it was great to surf against Silvana (Lima) and Dimity after her cracker of a heat.” Coco also adds, “I’ve had an equal amount of ups and downs this year and it’s hard. You’ve got to keep your head up and my Dad told me at the start of the year that it’s a marathon, not a sprint. This is definitely a nice feeling.”
Da Hui Paddle Race Culminated in Fireworks By Sean Reilly Turtle Bay Resort and Kona Brewing Company teamed up with Da Hui O He’e Nalu to present the 36th annual Independence Day paddleboard and stand up paddle race. This past Fourth of July, over 650 competitors came together to battle it out in the world’s largest paddle race. North Shore’s premier summer event offered a variety of divisions and distances for competitors of all levels to enjoy. Participants who sought a higher level of competition and longer race course commenced their seven-mile downwind paddle at Turtle Bay resort, while less competitive short course divisions began their four-mile paddle at Sunset Beach. Truly an event the entire family can enjoy, Da Hui offered Menehune, Parent/child, and even SUPsquatch divisions. The paddle race concluded at picturesque Waimea Bay with a 25-yard dash up the beach and across the finish line. Turtle Bay even hosted a post-race pa’ina to celebrate our independence, featuring ono grindz, live music, the Kona Beer Garden, a SUP expo, crafts for the keiki and a fireworks show to close the event. A big thanks to Da Hui and all the event sponsors for putting on another successful Independence Day paddle race. Go to dahuipaddlerace.com to learn more about the event, check results, purchase official race gear and sign up for next year.
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Stop #2 of the Rip Curl GromSearch Presented by Mophie Hawaiâ€™iâ€™s top talent gathered once again at Kewalo Basin for the annual Rip Curl GromSearch presented by mophie. Eighty-eight competitors greeted highly shredable 2 to 3 foot offshore peaks, and surfers not only battled for bragging rights, cash and prize bags, but more importantly, they competed for the highly coveted invitation to compete in the Rip Curl Grom Search National Final to be held this October at Upper Trestles, CA. Congratulations to Elijah Gates who took home the win in the Boys 16 & Under division, and to Dax McGill who took top honors for the second year in a row in the respective Girls division. Check out the results below to see the names of the other champions, and congratulations to all the kids who ripped! Boys 16 & Under 1. Elijah Gates 2. Shayden Paccaro 3. Cody Young 4. Loa Ng
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Girls 16 & Under 1. Dax McGill 2. Emily Nishimoto 3. Tiare Thompson 4. Brittany Penaroza 5. Mainei Kinimaka 6. Summer Macedo
Boys 14 & Under 1. Cody Young 2. Loa Ng 3. Elijah Fox 4. Devin Brueggeman Boys 12 & Under 1. Jackson Bunch 2. Robert Grillho III 3. Wyatt McHale 4. Cole Alves mophie Maneuver of the Event Elijah Fox HIC Sportsmanship Award Jake Riccobuano
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Kekoa Cazimero Wins Arnette Cash Pot Surf Contest at Ala Moana Bowls By Brent Bearden The only stop for the 2014 Arnette Cash Pot series, the 2-day surf contest took place at Ala Moana Bowls on Oahu’s south shore in super clean and rippable 2 to 3 foot conditions. There was over $5,000 dollars in cash given out, but the biggest winner of the day was Kekoa Cazimero who won $1,200 throughout the whole event. Congrats Kekoa! And a big mahalo goes out to Local Motion, who was the Arnette Cash Pot Surf Contest retail sponsor. The final featured Kekoa Cazimero, Makua Rothmn, Alex Pendleton and Arnette’s very own Joel Centeio. The final was super tight until Cazimero’s patience paid off and he got one of the few sets in the final, unleashing a fury of turns. The 16 and Under final featured Shayden Pacarro, 10-year old Jackson Bunch, Kelson Lau and Devin Brueggeman. Shayden started the final off with possibly the biggest set wave that came in all day and ripped it to shreds. With his opening wave, Shayden put the other finalists in a very tough position to even catch up, and put on a clinic at Bowls. The Aloha spirit was alive and well on both days, and everyone went home feeling stoked. Results: Pro- Am 1. Kekoa Cazimero 2. Alex Pendleton 3. Makua Rothman 4. Joel Centeio 16 & Under 1. Shayden Pacarro 2. Devin Brueggemann 3. Kelson Lau 4. Jackson Bunch
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News & Events / Memorial
R.I.P Sonny Miller The world recently lost one of surfing’s most brilliant and creative photographers and videographers, Sonny Miller. The 53-year old passed away from a heart attack on Tuesday, July 8th, 2014 and the surfing community was struck with sadness. Sonny is remembered as a jolly soul, thoroughly professional and dedicated to his work in film. The man had an intimate relationship with a lot of top surfers throughout the years, and produced some of the greatest images of the last few decades.
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“We did a mission to Tonga in ’92 together and I realized then that no matter how far from home or how bad the surf, Sonny was always happy and positive and truly epitomized the meaning of being stoked,” Kelly Slater said in memory of Sonny. Born on July 18th, 1960 in San Jose, California, Sonny moved to North County San Diego as a young boy and learned to surf at age 11. The surfer’s career in photography began with Surfer and Breakout in the mid-80s and shortly thereafter in the ‘90s Sonny began making brilliant movies, shooting primarily 16mm, for Rip Curl. With a career that spanned over 25 years in the sea, Sonny will forever be remembered for his artistry and for his positive, inspiring and aloha-spirited personality.
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R.I.P John “Pops” Ah Choy Waikīkī legend and pioneer of stand up paddle surfing, John “Pops” Ah Choy passed away at age 94 this past month. Stand up surfing is one of the fastest growing sports in the world, and it all started in Hawai’i 50 years ago, thanks to Pops.
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Born on the Big Island in 1920, Pops worked as a young boy in the sugar plantations to help his family. In 1943, he sought a better life on Oahu and landed a job as a crane operator at Pearl Harbor. By 1944, Pops began surfing the legendary breaks of Waikīkī, such as Queens and Canoes. Throughout his life, the man raised six children; two of which became legendary Beach Boys, Bobby and Leroy Ah Choy. In the ‘60s, the family lived two blocks from Kuhio beach and surfed regularly. Pops was known to always wear kneepads and a Hawaiian Electric hard hat in the lineup; the pads to help protect his knees when paddling, and the hat to keep his cigarettes dry, which he smoked in between sets. As he got older and his knees began to bother him, Pops started using a canoe paddle with his longboard so he could paddle standing up, instead of kneeling. This is how stand up surfing began in the ‘60s. The surfing and SUP community will forever be grateful to Pops for his innovation, and will miss him dearly in the lineup.
News & Events /
The 2014 NSSA National Championships The 2014 NSSA National Championships got underway in Huntington Beach on June 26th, marking the 37th anniversary of the most prestigious amateur surfing event in the United States. An exclusive webcast was broadcasted on the two final days of the event on July 2nd and 3rd with live action, scoring and results, plus behind-the-scenes commentary and insights. Congratulations to Josh Moniz, who won the coveted Open Mens title, and to all the other Hawai’i surfers that dominated the competition. Many of the industry’s most prominent surfers got their career starts by climbing the NSSA ranks, including Kelly Slater, Rob Machado, Kalani Robb, Andy Irons, Bruce Irons and Carissa Moore. The NSSA is the path to surfing’s big leagues, and many new names have joined the ranks of the best up and comers. Congrats to the champions below.
Open Mens (ages 16 & up) MAYORS CUP 1. Josh Moniz-Honolulu, HI 17.87 2. Kevin Schulz-San Clemente, CA 16.87 3. Nolan Rapoza-Long Beach, CA 15.60 4. Seth Moniz-Honolulu, HI 14.00 Open Womens (all ages) MAYORS CUP 1. Caroline Marks, Melbourne, FL 14.60 2. Brisa Hennessy-Kailua, HI 14.00 3. Moana Jones-Haleiwa, HI 12.30 4. Maddie Peterson-Wildwood Crest, NJ 11.23 Open Juniors (ages 15 & under) 1. Griffin Colapinto-San Clemente, CA 16.97 2. Nolan Rapoza-Long Beach, CA 15.40 3. Barron Mamiya-Waialua, HI 13.03 4. Jake Marshall-Encinitas, CA 9.83 Open Boys (ages 12 & under) 1. Wyatt McHale-Haleiwa, HI 17.27 28
2. Tommy Coleman-Vero Beach, FL 15.56 3. Jett Schilling-San Clemente, CA 13.60 4. Dagan Stagg-Carlsbad, CA 6.33 Open Mini Groms (ages 10 & under) 1. Jett Schilling-San Clemente, CA 13.94 2. Jackson Bunch-Paia, HI 13.90 3. Robert Grilho III-Kapolei, HI 9.80 4. Brodi Sale-Kailua-Kona, HI 3.60 Open Girls (ages 14 & under) 1. Brisa Hennessy-Kailua, HI 15.37 2. Caroline Marks-Melbourne, FL 14.34 3. Moana Jones-Haleiwa, HI 12.96 4. Zoe McDougall-Haleiwa, HI 8.13 Open Longboard (all ages) 1. Nick Anderberg-Encinitas, CA 15.00 2. Parker Sawyer-Virginia Beach, VA 9.80 3. Spencer Bridges-Summit, NJ 8.70 4. Jazmine Dean-St. Augustine, FL 5.06
Explorer Mens (all ages) 1. Cobie Gittner-Ponce Inlet, FL 15.67 2. Elijah Gates-Kapolei, HI 14.60 3. Imaikalani deVault-Makawao, HI 14.27 4. Nic Hdez-Santa Cruz, CA 12.86 Explorer Junios (ages 17 & under) 1. Jake Marshall-Encinitas, CA 15.77 2. Elijah Gates-Kapolei, HI 13.56 3. John Mel-Santa Cruz, CA 12.20 4. Josh Burke-Christ Church, Barbados 11.70 Explorer Boys (ages 14 & under) 1. Stevie Pittman-Newport, NC 15.73 2. Eithan Osborne-Ventura, CA 15.33 3. Barron Mamiya-Waialua, HI 14.26 4. John Mel-Santa Cruz 13.90 Explorer Menehune (ages 12 & under) 1. Dagan Stagg-Carlsbad, CA 14.70 2. Noah Hill-Lahaina, HI 14.60 3. Wyatt McHale-Haleiwa, HI 14.23 4. Cole Alves-Kula, HI 13.27
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Explorer Super Groms (ages 10 & under) 1. Jackson Bunch-Paia, HI 16.93 2. Brodi Sale-Kailua-Kona, HI 15.54 3. Kaleb Kirshenbaum-Jax Beach, FL 10.14 4. Kailuna Paula-Hana, HI 9.14 Explorer Womens (all ages) 1. Brisa Hennessy-Kailua, HI 14.70 2. Dax McGill-Sunset Beach, HI 14.07 3. Caroline Marks-Melbourne, FL 12.00 4. Bailey Nagy-Haleiwa, HI 10.83 Explorer Girls (ages 14 & under) 1. Brisa Hennessy-Kailua, HI 18.16 2. Caroline Marks-Melbourne, FL 14.50 3. Summer Macedo-Lahaina, HI 12.14 4. Honolua Blomfield-Haleiwa, HI 9.10 Explorer Masters (ages 25 & up) 1. Chris Keet-Santa Barbara, CA 16.36 2. Daniel Sacchi-Wilmington, NC 13.94 3. Blue Spivey-Charleston, SC 8.83 Explorer Seniors (ages 35 & up) 1. Tony Foster-Cayucos, CA14.40 2. Chris Keet-Santa Barbara, CA 12.87 3. Mike Hennessy-Kailua, HI 11.63 4. Daniel Sacchi-Wilmington, NC 8.53 Explorer Super Seniors (ages 45 & up) 1. Richard Patey-Hanalei, HI 16.16 2. Mike Glevy-San Diego, CA 10.47
3. Rick Fignetti-Huntington Beach, CA 8.80 Explorer Duke (ages 55 & up) 1. Jim Ferguson-Santa Rosa, CA 12.06 2. Rick Fignetti-Huntington Beach, CA 11.40 3. John Jones-Houston, TX 6.57 4. Larry Holmes-Cape Canaveral, FL 6.56 Explorer Longboard (all ages) 1. Nick Anderberg-Encinitas, CA 17.66 2. Zack Raffin-New York, NY 12.90 3. Jazmine Dean-St Augustine, FL 10.50 4. Miles Serafica-Makawao, HI 9.40 5. Evan Micele-Virginia Beach, VA 8.44 6. Spencer Bridges-Summit, NJ 7.00 Explorer Womens Longboard (all ages) 1. Honolua Blomfield-Haleiwa, HI 15.33 2. Jazmine Dean-St. Augustine, FL 10.70 3. Kelta Oâ€™Rourke-Kilauea, HI 9.13 4. Ocean Tsutsui-Haleiwa, HI 8.43 Explorer Kneeboard (all ages) 1. Sean Noone-Alisa Viejo, CA 12.73 2. Chris Bermudez-Oxnard, CA 8.53 3. Evan Odom-Vista, CA 6.26 4. Paul Devoy-Huntington Beach, CA 5.50 Explorer SUP (all ages) 1. Axel Rosenblad-Makawao, HI 15.67 2. Shelby Schweitzer-Lahaina, HI 10.67 3. Dylan Schmarr-Kailua-Kona, HI 6.83
National Airshow Champion Jake Saenz-Huntington Beach, CA National Junior Airshow Champion Stevie Pittman-Newport, NC 2014 National Championships Special Awards Kalani Robb Most Inspiration Performance Brisa Hennessy Carissa Moore Rookie of the Year Zoe McDougall AI Open Mens Standout Inspired by Andy Irons Josh Moniz Aloha Award Presented by Keanu Asing Rainos Hayes Heart and Soul Award Inspired by Bethany Hamilton Brittany Penaroza
News & Events / National Title (NSSA Varsity Boys Shortboard Champion), helped the Kamehameha Surf Team win their first NSSA High School Team title and ended San Clemente High School’s four-year stranglehold of the National championship. “I was super stoked being carried up the beach this time by the whole team and it was a super cool experience,” said DeVault. “It’s super different coming from Hawai‘i because the waves are more reef breaks and not too many beach breaks. [The reef breaks] are a lot more powerful and usually bigger and [Salt Creek was] one-foot and really weak, so you had to adapt a lot and it takes some getting used to.”
The Kamehameha Surf Team Wins the NSSA National High School Championship By Daniel Ikaika Ito In the first 10 minutes of the National Scholastic of Surfing Association (NSSA) Varsity Boys Shortboard final, it looked bleak for Imaikalani DeVault. The incoming-senior at Kamehameha Schools Maui was combed in last place in small, cold surf at Salt Creek in Dana Point, Calif. The lefts weren’t giving any scoring opportunity and frustration started to rear its ugly head like a sea lion in the lineup. Then two things happened at once. DeVault paddled away from the pack, who was sitting for long, soft lefts, and started looking for rights next to San Clemente High School’s Kei Kobayashi. At the same time, DeVault’s teammate Kahia Walker, 16, who will be a junior at Kamehameha Schools Kapalama, started chanting in Hawaiian on the beach. “I ku maumau (Stand up)!” Walker yelled in front the entire crowd, who gathered to watch the final day of the NSSA Interscholastic Championships. “I ku wa (Stand and shout),” replied the Kamehameha Surf Team. Firing up his team, Walker again chanted with passion: 32
“I ku mau mau, i ku huluhulu, i ka lanawao (Stand together, haul with all your might, under the mighty trees).” “I ku wa (Stand at intervals),” screamed the Hawaiians. “I ku lanawao (Stand up among the tall forest trees),” shouted Walker with his eyes closed. “I ku wa, i ku wa huki, i ku wa ko, i ku wa a mau, a mau ka eulu, e huki, e kulia (Stand at intervals, stand at intervals and pull, stand in place and haul, haul branches and all, haul now, stand up),” the Kamehameha Surf Team roared in unison. It was a chicken-skin moment and a point of pride said Kamehameha Surf Team Captain Chasen Kim. “People were staring and didn’t know how to react,” said Kim, who graduated from Kamehameha Kapalama in 2013 and will be attending San Diego State in the fall. “At that point I was really proud to be Hawaiian.” As they continued to belt out “I Ku Maumau,” a chant designed to inspire ancient Hawaiians when hauling heavy koa trees, Imaikalani DeVault started ripping into the rights. The 16-year old, regular foot snagged the biggest set waves of the final and came from behind to decisively beat San Clemente High School’s Kei Kobayashi 15.06 to 10.5. In one fell swoop DeVault, won his first
The Kamehameha Surf Team was the only school representing Hawai‘i at the NSSA Interscholastic Championships in June and narrowly beat San Clemente High School 110-107. Cayla Moore, 17, helped Kamehameha win its first national surfing title by capturing the NSSA Varsity Girls short board championship. As the younger sister of twotime ASP Women’s world champion Carissa, Cayla felt that this individual and team victory helped her alleviate a lot of self-inflicted anxiety of being the world champ’s sibling. “I definitely felt pressure [as Carissa Moore’s sister] before, but now that I’ve grown into my own skin I realize that I have a different path than my sister does,” explained Cayla. “Before I would kind of compare myself, but now that I’m older I’m stoked to find my own path and it’s exciting.” For Cayla, who was a member of the Kamehameha Surf Team since her freshmen year, the 2014 NSSA National High School Team Championship is a proud victory because they brought the title back to the birthplace of waveriding. “It feels awesome knowing that surfing came from Hawai‘i and we are bringing the [NSSA National High School Team championship] back to Hawai‘i, making everyone at home proud because a Hawaiian surf team has never won the title before,” she said. This National High School Team Championship is a dream realized for Head Coach Lea Arce,
News & Events / The Kamehameha Surf Team pursuit helped me want to invest more into our school and my own education.” Kahana Kalama Graduate of Kamehameha Schools and Point Loma Nazerene
who is a science teacher at Kamehameha Kapālama campus. Kamehameha Schools––a 128-year-old, private school that was founded by Princess Bernice Pauahi Bishop––is a Hawaiian institution with three campuses on O‘ahu, Maui and Hawai‘i Island. There is a rigorous and competitive application process (written exam and interview process) with a long wait list. Its admissions policy, depending on whom you ask, is highly controversial because Kamehameha gives preference to Native Hawaiian children. Arce was instrumental in forming the Kamehameha Surf Team and getting the current club-sport approved by the school’s administration in 2009. At the time, the squad was formed to allow professional surfer Zeke Lau (class of 2012), who was a student at Kamehameha at the time, to compete in the NSSA Varsity Boys Shortboard division. Since its formation, the Kamehameha Surf Team is undefeated in Hawai‘i with five consecutive state championships, but Arce hopes this national title will help push for surfing to be an interscholastic sport like in California. “I’m hoping that with this National championship it will solidify the need for surfing as an interscholastic sport in Hawai‘i,” said Arce. “Surfing can be used as a way to motivate these young men and women in their culture, but also their passion for that ocean as another outlet in addition to the sports that are already offered at schools.” Although Gov. Neil Abercrombie named surfing as an official school sport in 2011, the Hawai`i High School Athletic Association (HHSAA) has yet to implement a formal structure of events
and competition format. “I can’t force leagues to implement a sport,” HHSAA chief Chris Chun said to the Honolulu Star Advertiser. “If three leagues run it I have a sponsor willing to support it.” Currently, O‘ahu Interscholastic Association (OIA) and Interscholastic League of Honolulu (ILH) schools organize their surf teams as club sports and compete against each other under the Hawai‘i Surfing Association (HAS). According to the HHSAA regulations, it takes at least three schools to form a league and three leagues need to request a high school state surfing championship in order for the HHSAA to implement it. Aloha Sunday owner and founder, Kahana Kalama, graduated from Kamehameha Kapalama in 2001 and was a member of the surf team. He had a successful career as a professional free surfer that he leveraged into an entrepreneurial endeavor with his popular brand and store, Aloha Sunday. Kalama knows that his experience with the surf team helped set him up for success. “I think giving student-athletes an opportunity to represent their high school in interscholastic competition is a way to infuse a sense of pride into their education and even the act of going to school,” said Kalama. “Knowing that my school and teachers also saw value in that
“I would like for schools to show a little more support for their surf teams. By investing in a surf team, a school has the opportunity to inspire their students to make something of their passions. The surf team helps cultivate an interest in each of the members to be productive and to participate in organizations and industries in which they are able to balance their personal and professional passions. I got into business because I was interested in surfing and I learned about the surf industry because I wanted to work in a field that I actually cared about. Through my time spent in the industry I learned about design, sales, marketing and merchandising– none of this would be possible if I didn’t have an introduction to the industry through competitive surfing. My encouragement would be to invest in surf team coaches and mentors that not only understand the ins and outs of surfing competition and the industry, but that are also able to give each team members good advice for their (post surf career) lives.”
Zeke Lau “Just being able to experience the whole team aspect is good for a student that surfs because not everyone is gifted to play football, basketball, soccer, etc. Having a surf team gives the other kids a chance to do something they love and be apart of a team just like every other sport. I think making surfing an interscholastic sport in Hawai‘i would just legitimize the sport, just like football, baseball and basketball!”
THE KUL KIDS
Town Crew By Chris Latronic When you see this crew of young surf friends, it’s hard to believe they’re still junior pro surfers. This has been THE crew to watch as of late, whether it’s competition or free surfing. From my experience, I have been watching these kids ever since they first started paddling out on the North Shore. They all shared that naturally stoked attitude and were always smiling and frothing in every situation... especially when they were trying to burn you... :) Nearly a decade later, those same faces are now frequently seen in the surfing limelight. Consistently competing and winning in expert level world qualifying contests, as well as national and world junior championships, these boys are coming up quick. One of their more recent milestones was the ISA World Junior Championship in Ecuador, which took place this past spring. An all-star team of misfit talent banded together to win the team gold medal, the most prestigious award of the event. As our homage to crews who accomplish great
“These kids are an exceptionally talented and extensive crew of young surfers, spreading aloha wherever they go and ripping their way into the professional ranks and beyond.”
Crews / The Kuli`ou`ou Kids
â€œWe got a lot of other people in our
crew also...thereâ€™s so manyâ€? - Josh
Whether splitting the peak or burning each other, it's all fun and games... most of the time. Josh going right, Noa going left. Photo: Tony Heff
Crews / The Kuli`ou`ou Kids things, we were reluctant to catch the crew on the fly as they were on the threshold of a Bali adventure of a lifetime. Seth Moniz, 16, Honolulu Josh Moniz, 18, Honolulu Noa Mizuno, 15, Honolulu Kaulana Apo, 16, Ewa What makes you guys a crew? Seth: We grew up together, we surf together, we do everything together. We live close to Noa (Mizuno), and Kaulana (Apo) usually stays with us all summer long. Josh: It naturally happened, we were all doing several contests together at a young age. We always surfed together and developed a strong bond. Noa: We push each other’s limits and that helps progress our surfing. Kaulana: Yup, what they said. Tell me about some of your earliest experiences together? Seth: We all surfed Waikīkī together early on. Noa moved in down the street when we were around 5 years old. We skateboarded down the street together and became good friends quick. We met Kaulana at one of the surf contests our parents put on at Queens and we’ve been hanging out ever since.
Seth: When the waves are small, we like to go fishing or diving. Or if the water is dirty, maybe go play some golf. There is always something to do. Are you guys pretty competitive amongst each other? (Everyone nods, smirks and laughs immediately). Noa: Yesterday me and Seth got into it pretty big. Josh: Noa thinks he’s the best at everything. Seth: It’s funny; it’s more like family fighting. Josh: Every time we do something it ends up in a fight. Seth: Not real fighting. Noa: More like brothers fighting. Josh: At the end, there’s always someone who’s screaming and eggy. (They all laugh). Do you guys have nicknames for each other? Kaulana: Soul Surfer Seth, JBR and NBN. Noa: FOL – Flexed Out Lana. Does your crew extend beyond just the core four?
(Everyone nods in agreement). What’s everyone’s role in the crew? Seth: Josh tries to be the leader. Noa: Yeah, he’s the ‘big deal’ haha. Seth: Noa is ‘the talker’. Noa: Psssst. Seth: Kaulana is laid back and down to do whatever we want to do. Josh: Noa is the grom, Seth is the lipper. If you could name your crew, what would it be? Seth: We don’t really have a name. Josh: Da Crew. Noa: It’s a big friend group. Seth: Family. What do you guys do when you aren’t surfing?
Josh: Yeah, we got a lot of other people in our crew also. Along with my other brothers Isaiah and Micah we have The Yamakawa’s- Kylen and Cole- then there’s Kaito Kino, Geno Sano, Liam McTigue, then there’s other guys... There’s so many! Noa: A lot of outer island kids too. Josh: Zeke Lau. When he’s home he always hangs out with us... Surf, do whatever. Yeah, we always have a big crew. We never go with just a few people, there’s always about 8 of us. I don’t think people really like it, but it’s fun. (Everyone laughs.) You are all out surfing together, what’s happening?
“In the end, there’s always someone who’s screaming and eggy.” -Josh
Sure, having lots of brothers and friends around all the time is fun, but Seth also knows a little alone time can do you good. Photo: Tony Heff
Crews / The Kuli`ou`ou Kids
Where would Josh be without his crew? Maybe not quite this high. Photo: Cole Yamane
Seth: We don’t really have a priority system. Josh: Whoever is out the back first gets the first good wave. Seth: We don’t snake each other. It’s like ‘he’s been waiting awhile, go!’ We all end up getting waves. Josh: Skip people sometimes hehe. Noa: Josh does that all the time.
(Everyone points to Seth). Noa: Either Josh or Seth. Kaulana: Definitely not me haha. Josh: Seth at Backdoor last year.
(Josh smirks). Best aerial? Kaulana: Seth is usually dropping 10 footers at Pipeline while Josh is going on a 10ft Backdoor. All the while, me and Noa sit on the sidelines, taking notes.
(Everyone points to Josh). Noa: It’s so obvious.
Who got the best barrel to date?
Heff Hanging with this crew will seriously improve your air game. Just ask Kaito Kino.
Perpetually inclusive, the crew always extends beyond the core four.
Seth: Josh’s airs are crazy. How inverted he gets… (Showing example with hands) … before he lands, the nose of his board is upside down. He always lands in the most critical areas. Noa: I concur. Kaulana: I concur.
Kaulana: I’m the worst; I never shot a fish yet haha. Noa: Seth caught the biggest fish, he got lucky.
(Josh modestly shakes his head in disagreement).
Josh: Quantity or quality? Haha. Seth: Noa goes to Punahou… Noa: Nope. Josh: Me and Seth go home school so… nothing really.
Who gets the girls? (They all laugh).
(Josh and Seth point to Noa and Kaulana). Who has the odd habits? Josh: It’s between these 2 guys. Seth: Kaulana has the most styled out carves.
Noa: We all have pretty odd habits. Seth picks his nose.
Best free diver?
(Seth shakes his head).
Josh: We all suck. Kylen (Yamakawa) is the best free diver we surf with. But amongst us, it’s got to be Seth.
Josh: Noa says random stuff all the time. Seth: I’m a notorious sleepwalker, sleep talker, sleep run, sleep
Unless on a wave, Kaulana stays the cruisiest of the crew. Photo: Tony Heff
Crews / The Kuli`ou`ou Kids
Noa has no problem being the grom of this crew... Would you? Photo: Sean Reilly
“If you could name your crew, what would it be?” Seth: “Family.”
Crews / The Kuli`ou`ou Kids
scream… Josh: Seth will walk out to the freeway at 2 in the morning. Seth: Yeah, I probably almost died a few times. You’re all stranded on a deserted island, who survives last? Seth raises his hand. Noa: I don’t know brah. Punahou could be my advantage on this one. Josh to Noa: No, you’re book smart, not survival smart. Noa: Actually, I’m neither haha. Kaulana: (boldly) I would last the longest for sure! (The other 3 laugh in disbelief.)
Josh: No you would not! Haha. Seth: Here’s the survival line - Kaulana, Josh, Noa, me dying first. Josh: (disagrees) Nah, I’d probably last the longest. Noa: You wanna give us a theory on that? Josh: You wouldn’t last. I wouldn’t last either. But I would before you. Last words before you guys embark on your trip? All: BARRELS! BARRELS! BARRELS! And then they went to Indo...
Liam McTigue is always in good company.
Brothers from another mother, Cole (top) and Kalen Yamakawa (bottom).
Orion Owens As sure as the sun rises, the boys will find surf.
“There’s always something to do!” -Seth
Photo: U.S. Army, Bishop Museum
TOWN A photographic feel for the changes throughout the centuries.
“A squadron of army biplanes passes over Waikīkī in 1933. Inland of the only two large hotels, there are still good-sized tracts of undeveloped land. Offshore, the surf breaks are mostly unoccupied.” – Surfing, DeSoto Brown.
Mark A Johnson
& NOW The early morning light casts a golden glow over the city, highlighting the high rises of Waikīkī and the neighborhoods tucked into the Ko‘olau Mountain Range. The ‘Pink Palace’ is still easy to spot, but most of the previously undeveloped land is now paved over with concrete.
Photographer unknown, Bishop Museum
“A man with a large surfboard is intentionally posed at Kuhio Beach with the Royal Hawaiian and Moana Hotels in the background.” – Surfing, DeSoto Brown
A crop of hotels now brims the shoreline at Kuhio Beach. The sand and ocean seem equally filled in with tourists and beach goers. While the Moana Hotel has undergone some remodel, the Royal Hawaiian looks relatively unchanged and much of the palm trees and foliage have remained the same.
NOW Left, top: Aside from the buildings, Ala Moana Harbor is the next most obvious change to this western part of Waikīkī. The Hilton Hawaiian Village’s Rainbow Tower juts out furthest from the coastline and the Duke Kahanamoku Lagoon is pristine and surprisingly deserted. Left, bottom: Shot in the 1920s, this aerial view of Waikīkī shows a relatively unaltered coast. The harbor has not yet been dredged and much of the land is still dense and natural. This view of Diamond Head really gives proof of the meaning behind the landmark’s Hawaiian name, Le‘ahi.
This page, top: This photo was taken on December 15th, 1934, the same month that Amelia Earhart became the first to fly solo across the Pacific from Honolulu to Oakland. This water angle really shows the untouched valleys of the Ko‘olau Mountain Range, giving Town a spacious and rural feel, as opposed to the metropolis atmosphere of today. This page, bottom: Even though you can’t see the mountain range as clearly as the older image, this new photo symbolizes the transformation from a natural shoreline into an urban one. While the first encroachment on Waikīkī began in the 1880s and 1890s, (with The Moana Hotel becoming the heart of the ‘suburb’ in 1901), Waikīkī’s major development surge was from the late ‘60s to the early ‘80s.
TOWN TIDBITS By Lauren Rolland
The history and culture of Oahu’s townside runs deep. Not only is Waikīkī recognized as the birthplace of modern surfing, but it is also the stretch of sand where Kamehameha I landed his armies to conquer Oahu in 1795. Honolulu, the state capital and the only city in the nation that is home to a royal palace, is the #1 tourist destination in Hawai’i and boasts a wide variety of surf breaks along its stretch of coastline. Since many surfers and beach goers enjoy Town as an ocean playground, Freesurf figured it’d be good to share a little background on these areas and what makes them unique. We have to admit, many of these facts were new to us too!
The Hawaiian word Waikīkī means ‘spouting waters’. Wai (fresh water), kīkī (to spout, bubble). Waikīkī had an abundance of fresh water springs that percolated from the Ko‘olau Mountains down to the coast, creating a swampland. This marshy area sustained many native Hawaiians through kalo (taro) farming, but by the early 1900s, was used to grow rice. But rice paddy swamplands were not economical and tourism was growing, so officials decided to dredge the Ala Wai Canal in 1920. The canal diverted the natural springs and turned Waikīkī’s swampland into dry land, ideal for development. Duke Kahanamoku grew up on today’s Ala Moana Blvd., (just before the Kalia Road intersection), which is adjacent to the property where the Hilton Hawaiian Village now sits. Today, the beach in front of this resort is mostly manmade, as is the lagoon. But the lagoon is named after Duke, and so is a small side street (between the Hilton Hawaiian Village and the Ilikai Hotel), in recognition of where the Hawaiian was raised and learned to swim. Duke grew up in a time where the women would gather limu (seaweed) and the men would fish to sustain themselves and their family. The Waikīkī Beach Boys are widely recognized as reviving the ancient sport of surfing and outrigger canoe surfing, as both watersports were on the verge of extinction during the turn of the 20th century. While the first beach boys arrived in 1901 with the opening of the Moana Hotel, professional beach boys in Waikīkī didn’t really exist until the 1920s. In 1934 The Royal Hawaiian Hotel sponsored an official beach boy organization known as the Waikīkī Beach Patrol. Diamond Head’s Hawaiian name is Le‘ahi, meaning ‘point (of the) ahi fish’. Lea (point of land), ahi (yellow fin tuna). At a distance, the mountain resembles the dorsal fin of an ahi, hence its Hawaiian name. Later, in 1825, British sailors found small sparkling calcite crystals in the beach sand near Le‘ahi and named the mountain Diamond Hill. This name was later changed to Diamond Head.
Tom Blake, surf pioneer and legendary figure in Waikīkī history, first came to Hawai’i in 1924 and bought a wooden surfboard for $25. Later, in 1926, he created the first hollow surfboard that weighed 44 pounds (compare this to the 100-pound boards most people were surfing then). In 1929, Tom bought a Graflex camera from Duke Kahanamoku and became the first to build a waterproof camera housing, which was used exclusively for surf photography. The man is also credited for creating the fin in 1935, when he fixed an old speedboat keel to the bottom of a board. Garbage Holes for Bowls. Magic Island was created in the 1960s as part of a new resort, (which was never finished) and ended up destroying a hollow peak surf break known as Garbage Holes. Around the same time in 1952, the Ala Wai Canal was being blasted with dynamite to reroute its entrance, and thus Ala Moana Bowls was created, now known as one of Town’s best lefts. It is literally illegal to surf Point Panic with a board of any kind. Surfers who enter the bodysurfing area of Point Panic with a surfboard or bodyboard can face up to $1,000 in fines and possibly even jail time. Usually DLNR just confiscates your board, but because this place is highly territorial, just surf Incinerators instead. The man-made seawall that extends from Kewalo Basin to Honolulu Harbor is where Point Panic gets its name. The rocks are the ‘point of panic’ where if you don’t avoid them, you’re guaranteed to panic. Overcrowding on the beaches and in the lineups became a topic in Waikīkī in the ‘50s, and in 1963, a newspaper headline read, “Waikīkī Has 3 Times As Many Surfers As An Area Can Safely Handle”. Today 4.5 million people visit Oahu each year and Waikīkī is one of the most popular destinations they seek. Oahu harbors 70% of Hawai’i’s population, and over 70% of these Oahu residents live in Town. Waikīkī was initially an important food location, but once this necessity shifted, it became less important for sustainability and more important as a place of recreation. Kamehameha V was the first to make Waikīkī a specific vacation getaway in the mid 1800s, and had a home built on the property where The Royal Hawaiian hotel now exists. After this, Waikīkī became a regular summer retreat for Hawaiian royalty.
Mahalo to DeSoto Brown, historian and archivist at Bishop Museum and author of the book ‘Surfing’, for sharing knowledge and insight for this piece. pau
All that glitters is not gold, Billy Kemper embraces the old adage. Photo: Zak Noyle
Ainâ€™t no cure for the summertime blues? Whoever said that doesnâ€™t know what Charlie Carroll knows. Photo: Keoki
Between the devil and the deep blue sea, Seth Moniz always opts for the latter. Photo: Tony Heff
(top) Cayla Moore, on summer stay-cation. Photo: Tyler Rock
(bottom) Mahina Maeda, a nice slice of paradise. Photo: Keoki
Pedicures are $40 in Waik朝k朝 but Kelia Moniz prefers free saltwater foot baths. Photo: Tony Heff
A clean face and a slob grab. Zeke Lau knows that opposites attract. Photo: Tony Heff
If you happen to find a wallet in the Kewalos parking lot that says BAM on it, it probably belongs to Kekoa Bacalso. Photo: Tyler Rock
(top) Jonah Morgan dropped his wallet at Ala Moana Bowls... donâ€™t worry he got it. Photo: Alex Ruybalid
(bottom) Can you grab that for me? Josh Moniz politely declines. Photo: Sean Reilly
Diamonds in the sky and Makua Rothman banking off the top. Photo: Tony Heff
Super Zak. Super selfie at Waimea bay.
ZAK Catching up with Hawai‘i ’s Busiest Surf Photographer Interview by Lauren Rolland Intro by Tony Heff
Mere mention of the name Zak Noyle and images of aquatic brilliance from tropical paradise come flooding to mind. As one of four staff photographers at Surfer Magazine, Zak’s dedication to the craft of water and surf photography is at an elite level, proven by countless magazine spreads, cover shots and happy clients. And as ambassador for companies such as RVCA, Wailoa, Da Fin, Watershot housings and SPL waterhousings, Zak has more on his plate than ten hungry Kanaks. But this Punahou grad has learned a thing or two about multitasking, and not only does he keep pace with the best, he’s able to find time to give back. Making waves for the first time this year, Zak headed an Aquatography Workshop at UH Manoa and Sandy’s beach, in an effort to give back to where it all began for him. Zak also wanted to create an opportunity for aspiring water photographers to have the chance to work with Canon dslr cameras and lenses, SPL housings and industry professionals. Read on to find out about the success of this event, plus a few other things you probably never knew about Zak Noyle.
Spotlight / Zak Noyle Zak Noyle
Makua Rothman and Zak both in a critical position at Pipeline.
What initially got you interested in photography?
How often do you travel for work?
Having the ability to be so comfortable in the water from swimming, water polo and growing up in Hawai’i, I found myself spending long hours in the ocean any chance I got. Through this, I found photography. And found an ability to swim into heavy situations and feel comfortable in them.
I travel about 7 months out of the year. In those 7 months, I am home for a week, maybe two at a time before I am off again for a week or more. When I return from a trip I unpack, wash my clothes and repack even if I don’t have an immediate trip planned. I just never know when I am leaving again.
Did you have any background in the art?
What’s the planning/tracking process like?
I took photography in high school, a basic 101 class, and ended up failing the course. That was my only formal teaching of photography. My father, Ric Noyle, is quite a well-known commercial photographer in Hawai’i who shoots hotels, food and fashion all over the state. Through my dad, I learned a lot of what I know today.
With modern day swell forecasting, I am able to track and forecast swells with much better accuracy. I never do a trip planned out in advance over a week or two. I know my target destinations I would like to go to, and from there I monitor swells and wait for that perfect strike mission window. I could get a call one morning and be gone by lunch, that’s just the nature of this job and I love it.
How do you think surf photography has developed over the years? Favorite wave to photograph? As with anything, it has gotten tougher with more competition and an ever evolving world of technology. With the digital age, the learning curve has advanced and the limits are forever being raised. It’s not a job you get into to be rich; it’s a job you get into for the love of the ocean and for photography. Many people forget this, and it begins to show through in their work. They stop having fun.
My favorite wave in the world is Off The Wall/Pipeline. That little stretch of beach is my home, my comfort zone. They have giant barrels with ever changing lighting that keeps it different all day. Most memorable work trip? Most memorable and favorite trip would be anything to do with Tahiti. It’s
Zak Noyle / Zak Noyle Spotlight
Even with the tens of thousands of photographers shooting Oahu's Sandy Beach, Zak gives us something new.
such a magic place with wonderful people. This summer you spearheaded the Aquatography Workshop at UH and Sandy’s. Tell me about the event and the mission behind it all. I learned to shoot photos at Sandy beach, just bodysurfing and having fun with point-and-shoot film cameras. I recently noticed the huge influx of guys wanting to shoot due entirely to GoPro creating such ease and accessibility for anyone to pick one up and get great shots. I wanted to give back to the community and to the place where it all began for me. I looked to guys like Shane Dorian and Ian Walsh and how they did their kid contests at their home breaks. I wanted to create an event that would help out the dslr camera and housing in the hands of anyone interested, to see if that’s a path they wanted to pursue. I partnered with Canon USA to bring in over 30 dslr cameras plus lenses of all sorts, then had SPL send in housings for the cameras and everything fell together from there. It was a lot more work then I had ever imagined, plus money out of my own pocket to make it happen. I did a two-day class. The first day was at UH in a large classroom where I had many people fly in to speak and teach. Canon sent a camera specialist to teach the basics, SPL owner Sean LaBrie came out to talk and help, Jeff Hall of A Frame Media came from California to speak about licensing and selling imagery, Tony Heff of Freesurf came and talked
“I wanted to give back to the community and to the place where it all began for me.”
Spotlight / Zak Noyle
This massive air drop at Jaws landed Tyler Larronde and Zak the cover of Surfer Magazine.
about what it takes to get an image in a magazine from a photo editor’s view, my dad talked about post production and managing digital imagery and I spoke on my career.
A great turnout to Zak’s Aquatography Workshop at Sandy Beach.
What was the turnout? That day we had 145 people show up. It was insane, with so much to offer and learn.The following day we took the workshop to Sandy beach and set up tents with all the gear on hand for a select group to try out. 60 people showed up and were divided into smaller groups for hands-on work with several instructors that I hand picked, to help me teach various sorts of photography. It could not have been a more perfect day for waves, wind, weather or people that showed up. Everyone had a great time and learned a lot. What was most fulfilling? To be able to call on my sponsors, family and friends to create such an event was truly amazing to see it all come together. I can’t even describe how awesome it felt watching these people try a housing in the water for the first time and seeing them fall in love with shooting even more. This is something I would like to continue to do, to share the passion and love of photography. It’s something that should be shared, not kept a secret.
What words of advice do you have for a budding photographer? “Shoot loose and edit tight.” Told constantly to me from my dad. Have fun also, and never forget why you got into shooting surf photography. Respect everyone.
Surf Cinema /
7th Annual Honolulu Surf Film Festival Intro by Lauren Rolland Review by Daniel Ikaika Ito Another successful year of screening new and classic surf films has taken place in Town, for the 7th annual Honolulu Surf Film Festival. The community was witness to the largest range of films since the event’s inception. With more screenings than ever before (52 films to be exact) and with an expanded geographic and thematic range, this surf film fest was more wide-reaching than ever before. Taking place at Doris Duke Theatre at the Honolulu Museum of Art, the surf films were screened throughout the entire month of July. From Garrett McNamara’s debut of The North Canyon: Nazare Calling and Jordy Smith’s Now Now to Jack Johnson and Chris & Emmett Malloy’s Slow is Fast: On The Road At Home and the documentary Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau, there was a wide variety of contemporary and classic surf films on offer. Partnered with the Honolulu International Film Festival (HIFF), the Honolulu Surf Film Festival celebrates surf culture, surf history and the creativity of those drawn to the surfing lifestyle. “And it all takes place in the birth place of surfing,” says Abbie Algar, film curator at the Honolulu Museum of Art, Doris Duke Theatre. Started in 2008 by theatre director at the time Gina Caruso, in collaboration with Eric & Jackie Walden, Abbie says the Honolulu Surf Film Festival “just seemed like a natural thing to do for the community here.” Aside from sharing the love of surfing with Oahu’s community, the festival is also a fun opportunity to showcase talent and creativity, and bring together a group
of like-minded individuals. A few noteworthy community members that joined these events included Solomon & Clyde Aikau, Randy Rarick and Jock Sutherland. “An interest in surfing, surf culture and a deep connection to the ocean is something that unites such a wide variety of people in Hawai’i,” describes Abbie. “It would be strange not to celebrate this and channel all of that amazing energy and passion.” The Honolulu Surf Film Festival is already on the theatre’s calendar for the whole month of July 2015. If you missed it this year, be sure to check out honolulumuseum.org for show times and screenings next year. Come be inspired by the passion, imagination and talent of these surfers and film makers.
Changing Pace at the Honolulu Surf Film Festival How “Slow is Fast: On the Road at Home” saved my sanity By Daniel Ikaika Ito Watching a film based off a piece of literature before reading the actual book can be a problematic venture. It’s so easy for a motion picture to ruin a good read: R.I.P. all of the Harry Potter movies. So I went into the screening of Slow Is Fast: On the Road at Home at the 7th Annual Honolulu Surf Film Festival with some anxiety. Adding to the stress of cheapening the film, I was chasing several writing deadlines at the same time and waiting for e-mail answers from Thailand and Japan. It seemed counterproductive to go in the Doris Duke Theatre, which is a beautiful place to watch a surf movie, but is known for its lack of cell phone reception. That meant no e-mails, Instagram,
Facebook, Twitter or phone calls for an hour or so: oh, the humanity! All of the concrete used to build the Doris Duke Theatre, which prevents AT&T’s fastest 4G network from reaching my iPhone, turned out to be a blessing in disguise. It allowed me to get off the Interweb and focus on the stunning imagery and underlying messages of Slow Is Fast: On the Road at Home. This film documents the 58-day, 700-something mile trek on bicycles of professional surfer Dan Malloy, photographer Kanoa Zimmerman and cinematographer Kellen Keene. The trio packed up a hipster quiver (a stubby, flat Fletcher Chouinard shaped shortboard, handplanes and Da Fins), wetsuits, a bag of film, cameras and microphones with the goal of having an adventure in your backyard. After 15 years of traveling the world and surfing exotic locales, Dan Malloy wanted to take a surf trip in California while talking story with interesting individuals along the way. It was an enlightening experience for the trio, especially for Dan Malloy, who learned something about his body and health through the filming of Slow Is Fast: On the Road at Home. “The personal highlight was finding out that I have been a little bit car sick most of my life,” says Dan Malloy, who was the big kid of the Continued on page 94
Grom Report /
Diego Antonio Kali’i Ferri By Sean Reilly Photos: Tyler Rock
Hometown: Kailua, Oahu DOB: April 18th, 2004 Height/ Weight: 4’4/ 60 lbs. Stance: Regular Sponsors: Rip Curl, Dakine, Raynor Surfboards, Proper Rideshop & Live Olley You may be smarter than a fifth grader, but I’m willing to bet you can’t shred like one, or at least like this one. Diego “Super D” Ferri is busting maneuvers that kids twice his age haven’t even contemplated. Forget red rover and gummy worms, this 10-year-old is already sticking backside reverses and frontside 540’s. Recently picked up by Rip Curl, Diego is captivating audiences left and right. During the Volcom Pufferfish Surf Series at Makaha, the announcer mispronounced Ferri (Diego’s last name) as Ferrari (the Italian luxury sports car). Ironically, the Italian descendent surfs much like the sports car he was mistaken for, flashy and explosive! An all around ripper, this Oahu native is no one trick pony. Sponsored surfer, accomplished skater (remember that 540 I mentioned earlier?) and Hawai`i State BMX champion, this eastside wonder grom shralps all things gnar. Look out world, here come Diego Ferri. Or is Ferrari?
Congrats on your new Rip Curl sponsorship, how did that come about? I was surfing Kewalos and Rip Curl invited me to the team session. As I was coming in, I got this super good wave and banged it like five times. That’s when Wyatt McHale said, ‘Oh were picking him up today.’ I came in and he said I was sponsored. I’m really stoked Rip Curl picked me up because that means they think I’m a good surfer, but better yet they think I’m a good person. You seem pretty familiar with that wave. Would you consider Kewalo Basin your home break? Yeah, it’s about a half hour commute over the Pali (Highway). It’s the spot I surf most. That spots got air sections, barrels and opportunities to crack the lip really hard. Kewalos has been breeding ridiculous amounts of talent and is definitely the go-to spot for kids your age. Do you have any friendly rivalries over there? Oh the kids. It’s really crowded, but it’s still fun. I think my division is the gnarliest division because everyone competing is so amazing. Jackson Bunch is amazing, Makana and Luke Swanson and everyone else in the
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Grom Report /
division. I think of all of them as my friends. They push me a lot. I know they’re getting better and better so I know I have to get better and better too. Everyone’s ripping so hard right now.
When I started skating I learned how to get gnarly and not pull back. So when I started surfing again that’s when I really started liking it. Skating helps me a lot.
Do you look to any of your peers for inspiration? What is your favorite surf spot? Brisa Hennessy. She’s my eastside sis and has worked super hard to get where she is, and now she’s a national champion! When I’m skating I look up to Heimana Reynolds because he is the nicest kid around and rips super hard, and he’s so styley.
PK’s on Kauai because there’s an outside peak and an inside peak and an awesome reform. You can do a couple hits and even get barreled. Where do you see yourself in 5 years?
What is something that everyone knows about you? That I like skating just as much as I like surfing.
Still surfing and skating with my friends. Maybe winning Nationals. I hope to one day be a national champion, and maybe even a world champion.
What is something that no one knows about you? Favorite post session grindz? That I was the BMX state champion when I was 7, but my mom made me quit because it was too gnarly.
Luibuenos bean and cheese burrito. And then vanilla ice cream for dessert.
What is your first memory of surfing? Any last words for the Freesurf audience? Kalama Shore Break Classic when I was 4. I did it for the goody bag and I called the semi finals the samurai finals. I could have made it to the finals, but I didn’t want to compete anymore. Before the semi final I was playing a fun game with my friend, then during the heat I paddled in to go back and keep playing. It sounds like surfing didn’t quite captivate your attention the first go around. Do you remember when it did?
My dad always says, “the best thing to do is be a good person no matter what all the time.”
Jim Gusukuma Keeping it Retro at Rainbow Drive-In By Lauren Rolland
There is a vintage feeling that seems unique to Rainbow Drive-In. Business men wearing horn rimmed glasses read the newspaper quietly, enjoying their morning coffee. Surfers cruise up to order loco mocos, longboards hanging off the sides of their mopeds. The sign reading ‘Rainbow Drive-In’ crackles and flickers in neon colors and the glass order-window slides open to reveal a smiling employee. For over 50 years, Rainbow Drive-In has been serving up classic plate lunches on Kapahulu Avenue in Honolulu, and almost nothing has changed about it. Through this consistency, Rainbow Drive-In has been able to bottle up a bygone era, and is known as one of Honolulu’s most classic drive-ins. Opened in 1961 by Seiju Ifuku and his wife Ayako, the mission behind Rainbow’s was to serve up classic local plate lunches with hearty portions at a reasonable price. Jim Gusukuma, son-in-law of the Ifuku’s, now co owns the Drive-In with other family members, and they’ve worked very hard to preserve this early philosophy. Rainbow’s longstanding employees and loyal customer base are the two things that Jim says really help to perpetuate the Drive-In’s vintage style, menu and ultimate business goals.
Pau Hana Pau Hana
Jim, a retired United Airlines customer service manager of 20 years, took on Rainbow Drive-In in 1995. But he didn’t start out at the top. The humble businessman began in the back, cooking on the grill, helping prepare the food and working in the kitchen at the Drive-In. “I went from selling tickets to selling plate lunches,” Jim laughs. In an effort to learn the business from the ground up, Jim now instills this ‘bottom style’ of working into every employee at Rainbow’s. Born and raised in Kaimuki, Jim started surfing in the early ‘60s as a teenager. “I learned right at Canoes at Waikīkī, and then surfed at Queens until some of the Beach Boys chased us out,” the townie describes. Today, Waikīkī is Jim’s regular surf spot, and he surfs it every single day. “It’s probably not my favorite wave, but it’s the most convenient,” the man admits. “I usually come to Rainbow’s and open up in the morning, make sure all the cooks are in, then head out and dawn patrol it for a couple hours.” After the morning surf session is pau, Jimmy returns to Rainbow’s to enjoy coffee with the gang. When asked how this lifestyle is reflected at the Drive-In, the surfer responded that one of the great things about Rainbow’s is that people can feel comfortable coming in for food in any way. “You can come barefoot, in a bikini, in your boardshorts, with or without your shirt,” Jim expresses. This casual atmosphere is what draws the beach crowd, businessmen, construction workers, college students, travelers and tourists alike to the outdoor dining space, plus the food is consistently ono.
Kayson DelMar. Photo: Mike Cerrone
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Pau Hana / Jim Gusukuma many employees have stuck around from the beginning. In fact, the longest standing worker has been with the company for over 30 years. “We have a really good base to work with,” Jim illustrates. “We are a small business in the sense that we still run it as a family. Naturally we try to maintain those values.” Good food, consistent service and affordable prices are the secrets behind Rainbow’s success.
Driving past Rainbow’s, there almost always seems to be a full parking lot, a ten-person line and people spilling out of the lunch table areas. Jim says that summers are by far the Drive-In’s busiest season, but they can also bank on town swells to bring the crowds too. “Whenever there’s waves on the South Shore, we cook more food,” Jim describes. “It’s a trend that has gone on for a long time and still continues today. The bigger the swell, the busier we are.” Aside from being the go-to plate lunch spot for locals and surfers in Honolulu, Rainbow Drive-In has also gained notoriety in the media, and has a few claim to fames that make it unique from the rest of Hawai ‘i’s drive-ins. In 2013, the restaurant was featured in Food Networks’ Guy Fieri’s book “Diners, Drive-In and Dives: The Funky Finds in Flavortown”. Rainbow’s is also featured in various blogs and Hawai‘i travel literature and was even rumored to be one of President Obama’s frequent stops for local food when visiting Oahu. “Not true,” quips Jim. “I think that legend came about because when he was originally campaigning for his first term, he mentioned that he used to surf at Walls and would stop here to eat on his way home. But since he’s been in office, we haven’t seen him here. At least not that we know...” But Jim’s biggest claim to fame is the amount of years that Rainbow’s has been around, serving up the same plate lunches in the original style. “There’s been a lot of plate lunch places and drive-in’s that have closed, due to the challenges of running a business nowadays,” the owner explains. “The challenges for us is keeping our prices affordable, particularly in today’s environment with food costs rising so rapidly.” Jimmy also mentions that finding the right personnel to carry out Rainbow’s consistently good service has been difficult too. But throughout the past 50+ years, the local spot has remained open and very busy 361 days of the year (they’re closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day).
The humble businessman has a great work-life balance. Spending time at the office everyday isn’t so bad when you work with family, friends and have awesome waves to surf down the street. Jim has lived on the three other main Hawaiian Islands, but has really found a wonderful lifestyle on Oahu. With an affinity for Town, the Kaimuki boy resides on Oahu not just because of Rainbow Drive-In. “I enjoy Honolulu. I think it’s the most cosmopolitan city in the state and I think the beaches are the best,” Jimmy explains. “As for the convenience of shopping, restaurants, surf... I think Oahu is the best combination of all those things. Honolulu has it all for me.” At Rainbow Drive-In, Jimmy says, “you get to rub shoulders with locals and tourists alike. We’re a reflection of Honolulu as it is today.” To Jim, the most fulfilling aspect of owning Rainbow Drive-In is seeing these patrons happy with the service and food that Rainbow’s provides. “To me, that’s the reward.” In business for: 53 years, since 1961. Prices in 1961: 50¢ chili with rice plates, $1 barbeque steak plate lunches, 25¢ hamburgers and 14¢ french fries. Best selling item on the menu: Mixed Plate (BBQ Steak, Mahimahi and Boneless Chicken Cutlet, plus 2 scoops rice, plus 1 scoop macaroni salad or slaw). $7.95 Jim’s favorite menu item: BBQ Pork Plate, $7.50. “I really try to eat around the menu though, to ensure the consistency and quality in all the dishes.” Newest Rainbow Drive-In project: 80 solar panels installed, which also provides a canopy for additional seating and covered parking. Additions since 1961: RainbowTiki, the Rainbow Drive-In memorabilia shop, located at the Drive-In. Sells retro, classic and limited addition t-shirts with one-of-a-kind Rainbow Drive-In designs, old-fashioned candies, Rainbow Drive-In chili spice packets, local honey, kids tees, Shaka Neko cat souvenirs (brings good luck and good surf!), 100% Waialua coffee, pancake mix, keychains, stickers and more. Business hours: Open everyday, 7am - 9pm pau
Because the Drive-In has maintained a family-oriented style of business,
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Cliff Curl By Mark A. Johnson I took Cliff Curl during a big winter swell along the Na Pali Coast of Kauai. As the powerful swells hit the cliffs, they generate a large backwash that then heads back out to sea, meeting the next incoming wave and resulting in spectacular oceanic explosions, forms and shapes. Cliff Curl is one of my very favorite photographs and in fact, won first place in the Above Water Seascapes category in the 2014 United Nations World Oceans Day photographic competition. My photo, along with all the other winners, will be exhibited around the world to show the beauty of the oceans and spur protection for them as well. Iâ€™m happy that my photography will help protect something we all love so much.
Industry Notes Dakine Celebrates Hawaiian Heritage With Inaugural Surf Apparel Collection for Spring 2015. Dakine is making waves with the launch of its upcoming spring 2015 apparel collection and newly expanded surf division, Dakine Hawai’i Surf. For over three decades the world’s best watermen have trusted Dakine’s surf hardgoods, and the brand’s first-ever launch into surf lifestyle apparel builds upon this history with a solid collection designed for various land pursuits and a range of water activities including surfing, SUP and ocean fishing. The spring ‘15 line focuses on men’s boardshorts (with hand-painted designs by celebrated Hawaiian artist Martial Crum) and junior’s swimwear (made in the U.S.A.) in addition to daily essentials such as tees, shorts, pants, dresses, fleece and more. Dakine’s complete surf apparel offering will land at specialty shops globally and online in February 2015. Albee Layer and Stephen Koehne Sign with Dakine. Dakine is also very pleased to announce its first surf apparel team riders, Albee Layer and Stephen Koehne. Maui-born and bred Albee Layer grew up very close to where Dakine originated, and has been a team rider since he was a little grom. Stephen Koehne has been a major standout on the North Shore of Oahu for the last decade and spends the entire winter season hunting for Pipe, Backdoor and Off The Wall. During summer, Stephen is out at sea on his boat, representing the crossover from surfing to fishing that is a part of Dakine’s DNA. Also part of the apparel team are Maui boys Francisco Porchella, Tyler Larronde and Connor Baxter. Pakaloha Re Opens Paia Shop. Maui bikini brand, Pakaloha, is happy to be re-opening their Paia Store location this August. The new address is 123 Hana Hwy. Paia, HI 96779. Stop by for quality, colorful and functional bikinis or give them a call at their new Paia shop location at (808) 579-8882. Don’t forget, they also just opened a new store in Haleiwa, on Oahu’s North Shore! New Classes at Noelani Studios. Noelani Studios in Haleiwa is now offering a larger variety of yoga classes, including Hot Buddhi Yoga, Contemporary Dance Class, Mom + Baby Yoga, Kundalini, Yin Yoga and more! Yoga is great physical and mental training for athletes, especially surfers! Come try out one week of unlimited classes for only $20. Shark Sonar For Safer Waters. Australian tech firm Optus is developing a new technology that can detect sharks and send alerts to lifeguards via smartphones. The Clever Buoy is a floating device anchored to a seabed-located box that emits sonar signals into the water. A processor in the buoy is able to analyze those signals and identify the sonar signature of shark-sized objects in the surrounding waters. It also takes note of how such objects propel themselves through the water, to see if they are moving in a shark-like fashion. A series of these buoys/boxes could be arranged in a row offshore, running parallel to a beach. Whenever any of them detects a shark, it would send an alert via satellite to the local lifeguard’s smartphone.
The lifeguard would then sound an alarm, telling all swimmers to get out of the water until the shark had moved on. Freesurf’s International Surf Day Winners. Congratulations to 8-year-old Marina Fonseca and her father Romulo Fonseca for winning Freesurf’s International Surf Day Instagram contest, #intlsurfday. Romulo photographed Marina surfing Waikīkī on June 20th, which is recognized as International Surf Day, and later they participated in Surfrider Foundation’s beach clean up. As winners, the Fonseca’s took home a Freesurf prize pack with t-shirts, stickers, Jamba Juice coupons and more, plus the winning photo is featured above. Congrats Marina! Quiksilver’s New Products. Quiksilver, Inc. announced that it has entered into licensing agreements for several product categories, including Roxy young girls and children’s apparel, watches and socks/ legwear, as well as other product categories including luggage, beach towels and surfboards. “Our product licensing team has done an excellent job of partnering with industry leaders that have the size, scale and expertise to help us grow these businesses,” said Andy Mooney, chief executive officer of Quiksilver, Inc.
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Honolulu Surf Film Festival ( continued from page 80 )
Kelly Slater’s New Purps Drink. Slater introduced his new drink called Purps, which is comprised of 6 purple superfruits from around the world, all certified organic and non GMO. Kelly, along with Pat Tenore and Dr. Chris Schaumburg, created the brand as a healthy alternative to the high-sugar energy drinks currently on the market. “As a brand, the Purps mission is ‘To unite Nature and Science to promote your life’s Health’”, states Kelly. “The mainstream drink market is flooded with high sugar, low nutrient drink options and we wanted to offer better and healthier choices for people to grab on the go.” Sanuk Introduces Their First Line of ‘Shoes’! All hail the Cassius, Sanuk’s newest (and first ever) shoe model! Part of The Detour Collection, this fresh line of footwear has everything you need to fancy up your feet for any social setting! Not only are these shoes vegan and vegetarian, they also come in an array of sizes (including HALF SIZES, also for the first time ever) and colors, including navy, black, brown, dark brown and khaki. Get your feet excited about the new “No-Ledge” profile, waxed twill 5/8 lace up with custom print soft canvas lining, high rebound, molded EVA footbed featuring AEGIS antimicrobial additive, and the fantastic Happy U rubber outside! Perfect for any occasion, the new Cassius model will be sure to improve any and every outfit! Check out more details online at www.sanuk.com! Body Glove’s Revolutionary New Wetsuit. After years of extensive development, Body Glove is excited to introduce the new Vapor X Red Cell wetsuit with revolutionary Red Cell Infrared Technology. This new technology harnesses the suns rays to retain heat and for longer periods of time, making the wetsuit warmer, drier and lighter than anything else on the market. NO GMO Boardshorts. noRep Boardshorts and cartoonist Drew Toonz have teamed up to create a pretty powerful pair of boardshorts, the Evict Monsanto Protest Shorts. These limited edition shorts (only 300 were produced!) are priced at $60 at norepboardshorts.com and available to ship worldwide. Proceeds of the shorts will go to Hawai’i Seed, a non-profit that organizes people and educates on the risks of GMO to humans, ecosystems and Hawai’i. Each patch of artwork seen on these boardshorts was inspired by the signs carried by protestors during the Aloha ‘Aina March in December 2013. Mauli Ola’s Battle for the Breasts. Mauli Ola Foundation and Ambry Genetics recently announced the Battle for the Breasts, an online surf video contest that is powered by Surfline. The goal of this three-month event is to increase public awareness of breast cancer and the importance of early detection and screening. Sixteen randomly selected cancer center/clinic foundations will be represented by the world’s top women’s surfers for a chance to win up to $50K of the total prize purse and $125K worth of hereditary breast cancer testing vouchers donated by Ambry Genetics.
Momentum Generation. “After two months riding around and feeling very good most of the time, I got in the car and felt instantly lethargic. How was I to know? In California you grow up in a car so it’s hard to know anything else.” At first glance of the trailer and/or synopsis of Slow Is Fast: On the Road at Home, this film seems like a retrospective look at the long-lost California surf culture. It has a nostalgic vibe, but this movie is more of a look into the future of business owners and craftsmen who put an emphasis on handmade quality and taking the necessary time to do a job well. Whether it’s the farming of Mickey Murch and his family, or knifemaker Don Carlos Andrade, this movie is a showcase of lifestyles rather than surf porn. “I am definitely a surfer and surfing was a major component of the trip, but there is not that much wave riding in the little flick,” explains Dan. “Some surfers will for sure be bored to tears, but that’s okay because for me it was a bit of an exploration of how surfing will start to play a different roll in my life now that I value my family and community and the work I do on a daily basis as just as important as the time that I spend in the water.” What Slow Is Fast: On the Road at Home lacks in pure shredding footage, it makes up for in artistic, soulful imagery. Kellen Kerne’s eye for composition is striking and Dan Malloy’s lanky frame looks so steezy on the yellow Fletcher Chouinard stub. The cutaways in the film have a Wes-Andersonesque humor to it with photographer Kanoa Zimmerman looking like a member of Team Zissou in a bright orange beanie. “One message was learning how to slow down, one was that being involved with your food system is very enriching, one message was that surfing is more fun after a hard days work,” says Dan about the film’s subtle messaging. “Another thing we learned was that biker joints sometimes can give you food poisoning.” Slow Is Fast: On the Road at Home shows that sometimes perspective is the main difference between happiness and grief. You can achieve a shift in point of view by getting out of your comfort zone and slowing down like how Dan, Kanoa and Kellen did on their bicycles. “One message that I would like to get across is that of the bike journey,” states Dan, “I would recommend it to all and do it at home.” I was burnt out on going into Doris Duke Theatre, and I left after the film feeling reinvigorated. Instead of checking my email after the movie, I drove down Ward Avenue to Patagonia and purchased Slow Is Fast: On the Road at Home so I could get the paperback version. It was a completely different experience than the film, and I felt very relieved to know that the movie didn’t ruin the book and vice versa. pau
Noel Marchan photo by Wayne Agsalda
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The city meets the sea in dramatic fashion from Kewalos to Kaikos, and every time you look up it seems thereâ€™s a new building... and another Moniz in the sky. Surfer: Josh Moniz. Photo: Tony Heff