Steep and Deep
Koa Rothman Photo: Nelly / SPL
Volume 10 Number 6
G o i n g
PH OtO : J.S MitH /A- Fr AME
BRUCE IRONS W W W. FOX H E AD.CO M /BRU CEIRO NS
Could this be Koa Rothman’s Tahiti bomb showing up on Hawaiian shores 4 days later? Maybe, maybe not. But either way, Oahu surfers aren’t complaining when Town’s go-to spot, Ala Moana Bowls, is looking like this. Photo: Tyler Rock
Cover Story Koa Rothman’s Tahitian Pearl
Interview by Chris Latronic Sequence: Nelly / SPL There’s almost no swell more hyped than the first big south swell of the summer season. (Except maybe the first north swell of the season.) And everyone who was anyone knew about this one, especially Koa Rothman and his friends. “John (Florence) and I knew about the swell,” begins Koa. “It was the biggest swell we’ve ever seen going into Tahiti. We were both going to go but he was hurt (ankle injury). So only I got to go, he didn’t.” The swell built through the day. Starting with paddle-in conditions, many surfers were pushing the limits including Koa’s brother Makua, who unfortunately took a horrific wipeout face-first into an exposed coral reef head. “It started as a paddle-in day. I caught two waves, and then found out from Peter Mel that my brother (Makuakai Rothman) got into a vicious wipeout and would have to get surgery. I told Makua that I would go with him to surgery, but he told me to stay and surf. So I went back out.”
It must have been near impossible to go back out after that. How could you find the courage? Luckily, a big wave character of good faith revealed himself just in time. Koa continues with his story: “Then Laird (Hamilton) comes up and says, ‘Eh, you want one?’ All I could say was ‘Yeah!’ Then we were out there and Laird saw the wave and he looked back at me and said, ‘This is your wave! You’re going on this wave!’ All I could say was ‘Okay!’ Later I saw that there were about 6 jet skis trying to get it… I guess we got lucky.” “I usually blackout when I takeoff but fortunately this time I didn’t. I remember it sucking up super hard with these chords coming up the face. I was pretty much wheelie-ing down the face. As soon as I passed those it began to smooth out, then it started throwing into this huge barrel. I was basically going straight and got pretty far, to a point where I was literally pointing straight at the lip hitting the flats. Then it started sucking me up… the next thing I know, I’m sliding on my back down the face of the wave in the barrel. I got pounded but didn’t hit the reef… It was fun.”
Everyone knew that this was THE WAVE, and what a ride to witness. More then worthy of this month’s cover of Freesurf magazine. Congratulations Koa Rothman on an epic ride and epic cover shot! You heard it here ladies and gentlemen, don’t try this unless you can survive it to say, “it was fun.”
BANDIT The Bandit is the renegade of HIC’s mini-board lineup. Designed to be ridden 3-6” shorter than your everyday shortboard, it breaks all the rules as to what type of waves a mini-board can be ridden in. It catches waves easily and grovels well in small mushy conditions, but this design should not to be regarded as a groveler only. This is a high performance shortboard in a mini-board disquise. It’s fast and loose. It squirts through flat sections and powers through the pocket. The Bandit is a barrel of fun and plenty of fun in the barrel. Add one to your Summer quiver, and you may find yourself riding it all year long.
small wave designs to maximise your fun
BOOSTER The all-new Booster Model is designed to provide exceptional front foot drive combined with quick directional changes on the wave’s face. The semi-full outline provides added stability under foot, even when surfing beyond the lip. This design really excels in small surf, as well as a variety of other wave types and conditions. If you need one board that can take you from small-wave groveling to high-performance surfing on those better days - this is that one board. Rated: FF for Fun and Fast! Tail Shapes: Squash, Thumb, Swallow and Diamond.
AMPLIFIER The new Amplifier Model evolved from Eric’s popular K4 design that was modified for Joel Centeio. The tail rocker is slightly more relaxed than the K4 and the concave is amplified through the mid-section of the board. This increases forward lift for more front foot acceleration and speed. The position and shape of the concave creates better grip and drive through bottom turns with more speed heading into the lip and beyond. The Amplifier is a great high-performance short board for intermediate to advanced skill levels. Tail shapes: Squash, Thumb, Round Pin and Swallow.
Brianna Cope is amped on her new Amplifier Model.
Photo: M. McEwen
With over 20 different Eric Arakawa models to choose from, HIC’s got the right board to take your surfing to the next level.
Ala Moana Center
Street Level, Mauka
Table of Contents
if can, can. if no can, bottle. Either way, liquid aloha.
Fit for Surf
News & Events
ISA World Masters
Live Like SIon
Steep & Deep
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Nelly / SPL
about l l a s ’ t I
Editorial Publisher: Mike Latronic Managing Editor: Lauren Shanahan Editor -at- Large : Chris Latronic Staff Photographers : Tony Heff, Tyler Rock, Mike Latronic, Taylor Ivison, Chris Latronic, Sean Reilly Art Director : John Weaver Multimedia Director : Tyler Rock Free Thinkers : Sean Reilly, J. Yagodich Office Manager: Amy Withrow Contributing Photographers Erik Aeder, Eric Baeseman (Outbluffum.com), Paulo Barcellos, Brian Bielmann, John Bilderback, Kyle Burnett, Ryan Craig, Quincy Dein, Brooke Dombroski, DoomaPhoto, Paul Fisher, Ryan T. Foley, Pete Frieden, Bryce Johnson, Ha'a Keaulana, Ehitu Keeling, Jason Kenworthy, Kin Kimoto, Laserwolf, Bruno Lemos, ManaPhoto, Tim McKenna, Dave “Nelly” Nelson, Zak Noyle, Jim Russi, Keoki Saguibo, Epes Sargent, Jason Shibata, Batel Shimi, Scott Soens, Spencer Suitt, Bill Taylor, Wyatt Tillotson, Patrick Vieira, Jessica Wertheim, Peter Joli Wilson Sales Advertising Executive : Shaun Lopez, Maile Botelho, Natasha Briley Business Coordinator : Cora Sanchez Advertising Inquiries Manuele Inc. firstname.lastname@example.org
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A rare empty wave on Oahu's South Shore.
It’s Summer! Loving it! The first south swell of the season indicates that it’s summertime and this season started with a solid one. While a large chunk of Hawaii’s surfing populace LIVES for summer swell, some can’t get enough so they go straight to Tahiti to ride the famed left-hander Teahupo’o. As you can see on our cover, the summer wave energy climaxed to almost CODE RED advisory conditions. It’s almost a ritual now for the Island’s finest to make their summer pilgrimage to the end of the road. This year was no different and the boys were ready, jet ski and tow-board in hand. A ritual in Hawaii is the preemptive frothing by South Shore enthusiasts to fresh offerings of new swell as a result of this Tahitian energy... The bigger the Teahupo’o swell, the bigger the Hawaiian south swell. Just as expected, after Koa Rothman shot through that mammoth tube on our cover, days later, the south swell flooded the island shores and the locals were more then eager to welcome it. We got all angles covered and even collaborated with our friends at Surfline to help show the awaited south shore action around the world. http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/surfline-live/surfline-live-southshore-highlights_96401 Team Hawaii also did some summer traveling, as the Hawaii Masters puddle jumped to Ecuador with a big bullseye on their back. In defense of their World title at the ISA World Masters Championship 2012 Team Hawaii took Gold home again! Looking for a workout to reveal your inner summer body? I recently got to see what it takes to get in the best shape of your life without going to a gym, and in less time than you think. Surf industry icon Kai ‘Borg’ Garcia breaks down crossfit and how he uses it to better his quality of life in this issue’s Fit For Surf. The salty air mists of a long summer are among us and the swells continue. If this trend keeps going the way that it has… Oh, what a summer to be! Don’t get surfed out my friends. - Chris Latronic
KIRON JABOUR WEARS THE HD3 FLUXUS BOARDIES FIND OUT MORE AT ALPINESTARS.COM/HD3
ISA World Masters Montañita, Ecuador - April 6 to 14, 2013
The International Surfing Association held its perennial World Masters Surfing Championships in Montañita Ecuador this April. Bringing together some 30 countries and nearly 150 athlete representatives, for 10 days this small town near the equator became the home of big results, aspirations, upsets, dreams and more than one Gold Medal for Team Hawaii. Described in Wikipedia as “a small coastal town located in the Parrish of Manglaralto in the province of Santa Elena.“ But don’t let Google fool you. Translated as “little hill”, it became famous very slowly, decades ago, as a place only for surfing, with only a few rustic fishermen houses and one or two surfer’s tent on summer time. Today, Montañita seems to be the party town of Ecuador. Thursday through Sunday night the pulse of Reggaeton and techno music sifts through the early morning air. Hundreds if not thousands of city folk mix with tourists in a celebratory spirit akin to CarnivalEvery weekend! While team Hawaii walked through the streets and beaches with surfboards in tow, in the wee hours there were people still pouring out of bars,
News & Events
The break was too small to properly manage the hundreds of surfers that came from around the world to sample the surf contest. Not to mention there is a bevy of hot young local surfers and veteran surfers who know the break inside out. In the free surfs it was apparent that team Hawaii was there to win. Sunny Garcia served up strong, powerful turns in a league of his own from the very first wave. Rochelle Ballard who is there also defending her individual gold medal was recovering from a slight battle with a skin infection, but still managed to surf smooth with snappy turns. Kalani Robb came out of semi retirement to showcase his skills and make a statement- still surfing with impact and explosive creativity. Love Hodel surfed surprisingly strong and snappy in Montañita’s reef break, as did Reuben Balmores and Shuji Kasuya. Partnering with Mike Latronic as team manager, Mike Takahashi offered support throughout the entire event and helped largely with the team comraderie. Opening ceremonies for the event saw an Olympic style parade as is the case in all ISA events. Athletes from around the world paraded their team colors, flags, and smiles to a welcome sea of Ecuadorian fans. The people of Ecuador knew the word “aloha” very well. At the sound of the first horn Hawaii progressively battled through heat after heat. Highlight surfers from other countries included Greg Emsilie of South Africa. Emsilie surfed amazingly, scoring some of the highest point totals of the contest. Other names like Martin Passeri, Magnum Martínez, Magoo Dela Rosa, Ricky Schaeffer, Alan Sarlo, and Jojo De Olivencia were impressive.
Sunny Garcia showed up to the games competiting in both the Grand Masters and Masters divisions, taking gold and bronze respectivley.
sleeping on the streets and on the beach- apparently they were having a very good time. But for us, party time would have to wait. Luckily our contact at Surfbreakrentals.com set up Team Hawaii in a house overlooking the town - far enough away from the seething sea of Bohemian partymania. Team Hawaii would be focused, rested and intent on defending the title. The surf break in Montañita was a mix of cobblestone and sand. The swell forecast was promising and other than a slight inconsistency, the point break at Montañita proved to be a very contestable right-hander. In only took a few sessions for the team to acclimate to the break.
After nearly a week of hustling, Team Hawaii was neck and neck for the points lead with USA, Brazil, Australia and South Africa. The final days would see Sunny Garcia and Love Hodel both advance to the grandmasters final. Garcia annihilated the 4 to 5 foot sets in the final and would defend his title with a margin - scoring eights and nines throughout the entire event. Hodel on the other hand was looking to rival Garcia throughout the event. Unfortunately Love’s rhythm was not cooperating. Although the swell had risen the final day, for some reason Love could not get prime position in the 30 minute final. In the dying moments of the heat, Hodel nabbed an 8-point ride to move him from fourth to third. In the women’s division Rochelle Ballard had work cut out for her. Clean sets were pouring in on the
News & Events / ISA World Masters Montañita reef and each of the four women’s finalists were scoring excellent rides. Ballard would take home the copper medal for her efforts.
In the highly competitive Masters final, Kalani Robb and Sunny Garcia were well placed for top slots. But it was Greg Emslie from South Africa who continued to put on a scathing performance posting some of the highest scores in the contest heat after heat, and it was no different in the finals. Garcia seemed slightly out of rhythm compared to the rest of the contest… partially due to the fact that he was carted off for the mandatory drug test after his first final in the Grandmasters and didn’t even get to see the surf for about an hour and a half before his subsequent final. The conclusion? Robb nailed the silver medal and Sunny would settle for the copper.
In the Kahuna final, Mike Latronic would start off the heat within a decent score of 7.1. Latronic had posted several 8’s and 9’s throughout the event, and what could’ve been a warm-up wave proved to be the highest score of the final. Tron scored another 5.8 ride to adequately depose his rivals Jojo De Olivencia, Ricky Schaeffer, and Andre Malherbe. This would be Latronic’s dream come true, having placed 5th and 3rd in the two years previous - A first ever gold medal victory for the 49 year old Sunset Beach local and a big boost for team Hawaii.
With five Hawaii athletes in six different medals, Hawaii would reign supreme and defend their gold title as number one team. Latronic and Garcia would take individual gold medals while Hodel, Robb, and Ballard would take home bronze, silver and copper respectively. pau
Team Hawaii looks on.
Rock Tweddle / ISA
Rommel / ISA
Mike Latronic en route to a hard fought Kahuna Gold Medal.
Love Hodel, Grand Masters Bronze medalist.
Greg Emsilie, Masters Gold medalist.
Kalani Robb, Masters Silver medalist.
News & Events / ISA Masters Final Results Overall Team Hawaii- 10,844 points winner of the Eduardo Arena Perpetual Team Trophy South Africa- 8,976 points, Silver Medal USA- 8,165 points, Bronze Medal Brazil- 8,087 points, Copper Medal Australia- 7,882 points
Masters (over 35) Greg Emslie (ZAF), Gold Medal Kalani Robb (HAW), Silver Medal Magnum Martinez (VEN), Bronze Medal Sunny Garcia (HAW), Copper Medal
Womenâ€™s Masters (over 35) Layne Beachley (AUS), Gold Medal Heather Clark (ZAF), Silver Medal Andrea Lopes (BRA), Bronze Medal Rochelle Ballard (HAW), Copper Medal
Grand Masters (over 40) Sunny Garcia (HAW), Gold Medal Marcelo Alves (BRA), Silver Medal Love Hodel (HAW), Bronze Medal Dean Randazzo (USA), Copper Medal
Kahuna (over 45) Mike Latronic (HAW), Gold Medal Andre Malherbe (ZAF), Silver Medal Jojo de Olivenca (BRA), Bronze Medal Ricky Schaffer (USA), Copper Medal
Grand Kahuna (over 50) Chris Knutsen (ZAF), Gold Medal Craig Schieber (CRC), Silver Medal Allen Sarlo (USA), Bronze Medal Eric Graciet (FRA), Copper Medal
Aloha Cup Australia, Gold Medal and winner of the ISA Aloha Cup Trophy Venezuela, Silver Medal Brazil, Bronze Medal Hawaii, Copper Medal
Top: Team Hawaii, ISA Gold Medalists for the second year in a row. Bottom: Sunny Garcia (left), Grand Masters Gold; Mike Latronic (right), Kahuna Gold.
Nearly 300 keiki invaded Baby Queen’s at Kuhio Beach this past May for the T&C Surfer Grom Contest. Early Friday morning, (the day before the contest), the National Weather Service in Honolulu issued a high surf advisory for south facing shores until 6pm the following Tuesday. The contest began on Saturday morning and event organizers took extra precautions to insure the safety of the kids. Parents were on full alert the entire weekend, as keiki as young as 3 years old competed in event divisions. Currents were strong throughout the weekend and Adam Borello (one of the contest organizers) mentioned, “we’ve never seen this amount of swell for our event.” But it gave the young surfers a chance to really show their mettle.
Saturday saw 10 to 12 foot faces, but the groms seemed undeterred and attacked the frothy waves with determination. The swell continued to roll in on Sunday, with the 6-8 year old boys paddling out at 7am and the girls following shortly after. In between heats, kids participated in fun games, activities, and races and during lunch competitors enjoyed Chili’s Grill & Bar with Naked Juice refreshers. The surf on the shores of Waikiki couldn’t have been better for the groms to showcase their talents, and ohana stood cheering on the sidelines to highlight the success of the surfers and the event.
T&C Surfer Grom Contest
News & Events
News & Events Da Hui Stand Up Paddle Race
With Da Hui Paddle Race, Primo Beer and Turtle Bay Resort’s Fireworks Extravaganza, Da Hui Stand Up Paddle Race wanted to give competitors and guests a fun way to celebrate the 4th of July. A Post-Race Pa’ina will be held at the Turtle Bay grounds (near the stables) starting at noon with live music featuring John Cruz, Typical Hawaiians, Kairoots, Darren Benitez, Kapena and more, plus a SUP Expo, Primo beer garden, food, crafts and fun for the keiki. And don’t miss the fireworks! IMPORTANT: Da Hui Paddle Race has a change in the race format. 1) Race starts have changed (see poster). 2) Da Hui Paddle Race Awards Ceremony will be at Turtle Bay Resort lawn (near stables). 3) Shuttles will be available to transport competitors and boards from finish at Waimea Bay back to Turtle Bay (reservations will be taken). 4) Reserved parking will be available at the Turtle Bay Resort lawn (near stables) area for competitors only. 5) No coolers will be allowed on the lawn in the event area. Any questions, contact Contest Director Mahina Chillingworth at Mahina@dahui.com or log on to Dahuipaddlerace.com
Primo Beer will be teaming up with Da Hui O He’e Nalu as headline sponsor for the 2013 Da Hui Paddle Race on July 4, 2013. Last year over 550 competitors paddled in both prone and SUP divisions. For 2013, a Pro-Division in the Prone and SUP in both Kane and Wahine Divisions has been added - with a prize purse of $6,000!
Local Motion Surf into Summer Marking the official start to summer, the Local Motion Surf Into Summer contest presented by Hawaiian Style was a success for over 200 contestants this year. The biggest amateur surf contest in Hawaii, Local Motion Surf into Summer was held during Memorial Day weekend at Ala Moana Bowls. With ages ranging from 7 years old to men in their 50’s, competitors surfed smaller waves that were left over from the earlier massive swell, which pushed through south shores the week before. While sets were intermittent throughout the heats, some were lucky enough to nab a few barrels. With a strong turnout, contest organizer Tim Mock mentions that the surf industry really helped out with some amazing prizes for all contestants. Winners went home with skateboards, carveboards, backpacks, sunglasses, tshirts, hats, stickers, and more, plus well deserved bragging rights. Congrats to all the winners and welcome to summer on the south shore.
News & Events
Hawaii Oakley Surf Shop Challenge
This annual contest pits Hawaii’s local surf shops against each other for a chance to compete in Bali at the Oakley Surf Shop Challenge this June. Team HIC put on an impressive show this year at Ala Moana Bowls, nabbing the victory. Congrats to shop employees Davin Jaime and Pauly Evangelista, and to the team riders Joel Centeio and Kekoa Cazimero. As Hawaii’s Regional Champs, Team HIC was awarded a free surf trip to Bali where they will combat six other regional qualifiers at Keramas for the 2013 Oakley Surf Shop Challenge Title and $10,000! Congrats HIC !
Hawaii State Championships
18th Annual Keiki Surf for the Earth
This past spring, Skull Candy presented the 2013 Hawaii State Championships at Ala Moana Bowls. With small yet challenging waves, the junior competitors surfed their best, dishing out some riveting technical skill. Congratulations to all the winners and to everyone who competed with their best foot forward!
For the 18th year, Big Island’s Kohanaiki Ohana hosted the Keiki Surf for the Earth and Beach Clean Up, an event dedicated to teaching the youth to become advocates of the ocean and land. Another year of successful community contribution, Keiki Surf for the Earth invited kids and parents to participate in a beach cleanup hosted by the Kona Kai Ea Surfrider Chapter, arts and crafts, and environmental and cultural trivia. Over 80 kids under the age of 14 competed in a surf contest focused on participation and sportsmanship. Every child who participated received a handmade goody bag with prizes donated by local businesses.
12th Annual Irons Brothers Pinetrees Classic Nearly 300 kids ages 5 to 12 surfed the grom-sized waves at Pinetrees on Kauai this past April. For the 12th year in a row, the Irons family, with the help of other supporters, has put on the event for the surfing future of Hawaii. Intended to give back to the community and spread the stoke, this day of food, family, and fun surf for the keiki was a perfect success.
AMORPHIA PHOTOGRAPHY WELCOME TO THE TEAM | NAKOA DECOITE
KILLER TIDE HI
100 M LOW
SUNRISE | SUNSET
Live Like Sion
Sion Milosky, steep and deep.
A Legacy Lives On By J. Yagodich
“Sion’s relationship with the ocean and big waves helped make the impossible possible in the eyes of the surfing community. He will always be remembered as an inspiration to go bigger.”
seeker, welder, wrencher, dirt bike rider, the list goes on and on. From the devastation of Sion’s passing, something beautiful was created. An outpouring of love and support from the surfing community worldwide birthed a passion to share Sion’s story and perpetuate his legacy, to encourage others, especially the youth, to Live Like Sion. So what does Live Like Sion mean?
- Daniel Russo.
Sion had a simple outlook on life…to live life to the fullest, show aloha to everyone, and always put family first. These simple rules for life made Si an inspiration to all. A rare and gifted individual, Sion is the guy that gives meaning to the adage, “once in a blue moon”. Many are inspired to live life to the standards he unknowingly set. Once in the mindset, there wasn’t anything Si couldn’t accomplish. Which makes it difficult to explain all that Si was because he was so deeply gifted and multidimensional…encompassing many things all at once. Sion was a son, brother, husband, dad, friend, big wave charger, trained waterman, fisherman, hunter, calculated thrill 28
Live Like Sion means different things to different people. Its common thread is to inspire you to live life to the fullest and to do the right thing, no matter what…to stand up for what you believe in, even if it’s against all odds. Close friend of Sion’s and fellow Pipeline standout Rico Jimenez gives his ideas on what this sentiment means to him. “Live like Sion means a lot to me. But most of all it means going big with everything you do, living life with no regrets, climbing any mountain that gets in the way of your dreams, being focused on what’s important and always being there for anyone who needs your help. Si was always there to help others and never expected anything in return. Just to make someone happy was enough for Si.”
Kauai boy Milo Murguia expresses that “Live Like Sion is a constant reminder of a standard of living. It’s putting family first, being there for friends, following through with things to the end, doing the best you can, and being a man of your word.” As good friends, Sion showed Milo a type of lifestyle that is worth living up to. “Sion always had my back no matter what, showing me the meaning of being humble and being a father. The best thing about Sion though, is that he taught us all these things not by words, but through his actions.” Sion was passionate about all aspects of life but it was his passion for paddle-in big wave surfing that really fueled his fire. “I feel like Sion was responsible for spearheading the revival of big wave surfing and taking it to the next level along with a handful of others. He was someone who loved paddling into big waves and surfing Pipeline. He took his standard of living and applied it to that. For Sion it was ‘go big or go home’, ‘STEEP and DEEP every time!’” recalls Milo. Sion’s desire to paddle into the biggest wave he could find truly inspired others to push themselves too. Reminiscing about this unparalleled man is one of the best ways to relive and honor him, and The Steep & Deep Pipeline Photo Challenge is just one way of
Ryan T. Foley
Live Like SIon many. Fearlessly charging Pipeline, Sion made a lasting impact on the greater surf community. And for the 2nd year in a row, the contest was held in memory of his commitment, talent, and bravery. “He impacted big wave surfing with the standard he set, which will be inspiring all of us forever,” comments Danny Fuller, professional big wave surfer and photographer. Rico reminisces about Sion’s energy, and the big wave mentality he left behind. “Sion would tell me ‘I want to catch the biggest wave!’ As simple as that sounds, I never knew what he meant or put much thought into it at the time. Most of us paddle out on a big day and are so scared that we would be content with just catching one or two waves. Not Si… He would psych! Catching 5 to 6 waves to most of our 1! He had no fear and surfed huge waves the way most of us surfed a small, fun, glassy beach break… He looked at big waves so much differently than most. In my opinion, Sion set the standard of what it is to charge!” While Sion is dearly missed, his legacy lives on through his family and friends. “Sion was a humble, down-to-earth, hard working family man that was one of the greatest surfers in our sport. That was what I admired the most about him. He was that underdog that shined brighter than most stars.” shared Skindog Collins, Santa Cruz surfer and good friend of Sion’s. Reef McIntosh, professional surfer says, “His impact was huge, he basically showed the world, this is how you do it…which I personally think is the way to live. Miss him dearly!” Sion would want us to learn and be inspired by the way he lived his life and the standards he set in and out of the water. Live Like Sion is a personal phrase to the one who lives it. It’s to live life as you aspire to be. Be the individual who, at the end of the day, you are proud to be. It’s Sion’s legacy living on forever. pau
Steep and Deep
Winner of the 2013 Live Like Sion Steep and Deep photo challenge were two North Shore locals. Nathan Florence and Freesurfâ€™s own Tony Heff connected on this late January, afternoon showcasing one of the most commited drops of the winter at Pipe.
Steep and Deep
Finalist JD Irons has somewhat always snuck under the radar at Pipe. A regular in all conditions, JD knows which waves to go on, and dedication over the years has paid off in a bounty of memorable rides like this one. Photo: Juan Munoz
Steep and Deep
Not much needs to be said about John John Florenceâ€™s barrel prowess that hasnâ€™t already been discussed. The kid is good. Hands down, one of the best at Pipe today and a finalist in the 2nd annual Steep and Deep photo challenge. Sion would be proud. Photo: Zak Noyle
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Photos: Manulele Images
Photo: Tyler Rock
Aperture Moments come and go in the hustle and bustle of Oahuâ€™s South Shore, many forgotten as they happen. On the first real swell lighting up the southern hemisphere, the sleeping giant we all know as Town came to life. Here is a collection of images from the first south swell of the year, showcasing moments of joy upon first arrival.
Left: Kawai Lindo threads the needle at Bowls. Top: Right where you want to be at the gem of Town, Ala Moana Bowls. Bottom: Townâ€™s lights dot the dusk sky. Photo: Keoki
Photo: Tony Heff
Top: Randall Paulson has his finger on the pulse of Town and will no doubt be at the best spot, at the best time. Here, finding the barrel on a set at Bowls. Bottom: With a 4-6 foot swell lighting up the many reefs across town, underground rippers like Kumu Logan-Blomfield can find their own slice of paradise.
Photo: Sean Reilly
Top: When the waves start to hit the 4-foot mark in Town, normal longboard spots like Queens can turn up the juice. Right Top: On any given day at any given time, any of Townâ€™s spots can flip the switch. Timing, knowlege and luck can play a big factor. Coming in from the North Shore, Ian Soutar rolls the dice and scores. Right Bottom: With a more forgiving lip and less intimidating sections, the South Shore of Oahu offers up a playground of opportunities. Kaimana Henry taking recess at Bowls. Below: Ha`a Aikau finding a bit of shade in the summer heat at Bowls.
Photo: Ryan T. Foley
Photo: Tony Heff
Photo: Tony Heff
Photo: Tyler Rock
Top Sequence: With hype of the approaching swell in full swing, the first day of action was centerd around Townâ€™s hot spot, Ala Moana Bowls. While some opted to wait for the long period sets, Isaiah Moniz took to upping his wave count to the benefit of some long drainers along the inside reef. Below Left: Joel Centeio checking the view from above, getting his first digs in on the new approaching Town swell. Below Right: Mauiâ€™s Albee Layer was spotted sneaking out for a late afternoon session during the peak of the swell.
Photo: Tyler Rock
Photo: Tyler Rock
Saved the Bay Lauren Shanahan
West Maui is a notoriously beautiful landscape. Green plateaus that meet the ocean, breathtaking cliffs and valley backdrops, world class diving, not to mention the world renowned wave at Honolua Bay. All this beauty is what brings locals and tourists together to witness it for themselves. But West Maui has little open land left. Resorts, condos, and golf courses decorate much of the coastline. Once known as a retreat for Hawaiian royalty, this area is rooted in history, a place of preservation. Right where Honolua Bay begins is where West Maui’s last open space begins. This land has deep cultural, historical, and spiritual significance and at the very least, is a stunning sight for sore eyes. Untouched landscapes are something we simply don’t see too often anymore. Continued on next page
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Community / Saved the Bay Known as one of Maui’s most pristine and beloved waves, Honolua Bay (and its surrounding land) was recently under threat of development. The acreage covering Honolua Valley, Lipoa Point, Punalau, and all of the coastal land up to Honokohau Valley south cliffs was owned by Maui Land & Pineapple Company. In 2007, the landowner proposed to open the land up for private commercial development. A conceptual plan was submitted way back in January of 2007, detailing a golf course, 40 luxury home sites, and a surf park/cultural area along the cliffs overlooking the bay. In other words, this sacred place was under contention for demolition. Community members responded in outcry. They argued that private commercial development would threaten the unique ecosystems, surf break, and conservation areas surrounding Honolua Bay. Many questioned what would be left for future generations if Maui continued to be paved. Other environmental issues arose including erosion, sediment runoff, and coral depletion. All of these problems would only continue to worsen if the development followed through. Save Honolua Coalition is a nonprofit organization that was created in February of 2007 in response and defense to the Maui Land & Pineapple Company’s proposed development. Their mission is “to maintain open space, public access, and revitalize the ecosystem of Honolua Ahupua’a through community based management utilizing Hawaiian practices and values.” Not only did they work toward safeguarding the land, but also toward community and ohana outreach. For more than six years the coalition fought to preserve Honolua. Finally, it has paid off.
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The state of Hawaii has allocated $20 million of their budget to purchase 280 acres from the Maui Land & Pineapple Company. This allowed the Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources (DLNR) to acquire the acreage from former owners and place the land in the hands of the public. Honolua Bay, along with Lipoa Point and the other landmarks are saved from development. With funds becoming available this July, the state will officially designate Honolua as a state park. Public access will be maintained, revitalization will begin, and the community will help with the management plan. Along with community members and Save Honolua Coalition, the Hawaiian Islands Land Trust and ‘Aha Moku Council of Ka’anapali Moku will be partnering to help develop and implement the plan as well. Save Honolua Coalition President Tamara Paltin comments on the progress and success of it all. “It has been an empowering experience for our community, especially the youth who got involved, to see what is possible when we stay focused and work together.” Tamara continues, “there is also a responsibility to recognize and acknowledge that there are many other beautiful places around the world that communities are fighting to conserve. I hope that our success at Honolua can inspire others to keep up their efforts.” Once public land is developed for private use, it’s gone; it cannot be reversed and it is not ours to enjoy anymore. Honolua Bay is forever saved and open for public benefit and for future generations of Hawaii. We have many to thank; Local lawmakers, individual activists, businesses and organizations all made this possible. Anyone who can attest the unquestionable sacredness of Honolua Bay is ever grateful to you. Mahalo nui loa. pau
Fit for Surf
With Kai ‘Borg’ Garcia Story & Photos: Chris Latronic Born in Kauai and now living in Haleiwa, Kai Garcia is a beast. Even more so today then ever before. At the fresh age of 42, Uncle Kai Borg has found the new fountain of youth in the form of Crossfit, a modern fitness optimization program to fuel his life at the highest possible level. Still working for Volcom, Electric, Vans, and Waiola (coconut water), Mr. Garcia took some time from his busy schedule to pump us up and show us how to be FIT FOR SURF. How did you approach your work outs before trying crossfit? At first, I thought like everyone else. You do curls, lift back, bi’s, legs… Do the routine over and again… You know, that whole stereotype from magazines and media. Yeah they look good, but they can’t swim or surf. They have no mobility, they’re all locked up. I didn’t want that. I want to be able to surf, run with my kids and live life at a high level. When did you find out about crossfit?
Crossfit is something I found out a year ago. It’s functional for everyday living. It makes life easy and better. It’s not about bodybuilding, it’s not about getting big, its about getting good for life at whatever you do. Are the crossfit workouts time consuming? You don’t have to workout for 2 hours. Most workouts are 10-15 minutes and you’re done! It’s over! You go on with your day. How has your surfing improved? I feel stronger, faster, looser… You name it! This past swell I surfed 8 days straight, that’s unheard of for me, and I trained everyday after that… and still going. That’s testament right there. What advice do you have for people eager to try crossfit? It’s just about walking in there and doing it, and seeing where that will take you. And if you don’t like the direction, go do Zumba, PX90, or whatever. Go do something that
you’ll be happy with… Just don’t do nothing. WARM UP: Warming up can be done a number of different ways. Usually we go for a run or hike. We also use resistance rubber bands to help deepen the stretch. It’s like somebody helping to stretch you out, pushing you pass that point that you’re comfortable with. It’s important to stretch and warm up before any workout, majority of surfers have tight hips and back. You can put them on the wave, and they rip, but when they’re walking on land, they’re duck-footed, crooked, and barely any of them can touch they’re toes… except Kelly (Slater). Bottom line, stretching makes you better and it takes work. THE WORKOUT: 5 Deadlifts at 225, 10 burpees, and 15 ab-mat sit ups in an ‘AMRAP’ 10 minute workout. AMRAP means As Many Reps As Possible… Which means non-stop movement! (Or the best of your ability). FIND A WORKOUT PARTNER: This is not an easy workout to do alone. Yeah, you can pull it off a few times but you’ll never push the limits like you do when you have a fierce partner. I like being in a class with 20 people
Kai ‘Borg’ Garcia, Crossfit advocate.
“ It’s not about bodybuilding, it’s not about getting big, its about getting good for life at whatever you do. “ -Kai Borg around me, you know, cause everyone is yelling, encouraging, and rooting for you to do good. Crossfit is fast, intense, and hard… You need all the help you can get. DEADLIFT – If you want to improve your front side hack or backside carve and overall power surfing you need to do deadlifts. Good deadlift technique will go far in shaping your surfing technique. Every professional athlete does deadlifts, except surfers… that’s changing now… no way around it. Make sure you keep your weight on your heels. BURPEE – The burpee is a full body workout on it’s own. You’re dropping down, it’s a push-up, it’s a squat, it’s a jump. You got no place to workout? Do 100 burpees where you stand, then see how you are. ABMAT SIT UP – It’s basically a full sit-up over an abmat. The abmat serves to support the lumbar area of the lower back giving each sit-up extended range of motion. It’s optional to touch your feet together in butterfly position to help deepen work to the hips. For full benefit, go all the way back and all the way forward. Ground to ground, full range of motion.
Grom Report / Kaunaloa Ng Sean Reilly
Kaunaloa, “Loa” for short, has a focus and determination very few have at 14 years old. With a ridiculous amount of talent, and a background in golf and soccer, Loa found his competitive edge early on. Starting his surfing career off with a bang, Kaunaloa won the first NSSA event he ever entered. Three years and countless trips to the podium later, this grom continues to head the pack.
game plan for his heats,” said Billabong Team Manager and Coach, Rainos Hayes.
“It was a very easy transition into competitive surfing for Loa. At an early age, he knew how to process information and break down a
Whether he’s shredding Banyans with Charlie Akao, or charging Backdoor with the Moniz brothers, you can always find a smile on
This past March, Loa put on a clinic at the NSSA Regional Championships against one of the most talented, packed, and premier field of competitors Hawaii had to offer. Hacking and slashing his way to the top of the podium, Loa won the Explorer Boys division.
this feisty competitor’s face. Never afraid to paddle out with the older boys, Loa is a stand out in any size surf. Watch out for the regional champ this summer.
Stats Nickname: Loa DOB: February 24, 1999 Age: 14 Height: 5’3” Weight: 105 lbs. Hometown: Kailua-Kona, Hawaii
Stance: Regular School: Makua Lani Christian School Grade: 8th Grade Favorite subject? Science is my favorite subject, because you learn stuff that you don’t always hear and know. When did you start competing? My first contest was when I was six. Home break: Banyans Favorite spot: Haleiwa Go-to board: Town & Country, 5’5’’/ 17 1/4 / 2 ¼ What does the rest of your quiver look like? 5’4’’/ 5’7’’/ 5’10’’ Favorite surfer and why: Keanu Asing, he’s a good friend and he gives back to the environment. Do you have any friendly rivalries? Charlie Akao. Charlie and I grew up in the same town and we always surf together. We both push each other to our expectations. He’s a good competitor and a great sport. What motivates you? Zeke Lau motivates me… how he trains, how he acts around others, his hard work that he puts in, and his dedication. Besides Hawaii, where else have you surfed? California. Surfed all of Huntington Beach and San Clemente and some of New Port. What is your biggest accomplishment? Winning Regionals was a really great feeling… Going into that year of NSSA, in a new division, I was the little guy. It made me try my hardest and surf to the best of my ability. What are your future goals? Do well in school. Where do you see yourself in 5 years? I would like to be some where in the surf scene and be a good example to all of the new generation that is coming up. Last words for the Freesurf audience: Mahalo and stay tuned for more action!! Loa Ng, cutting loose at home on the Big Island.
Sponsors Billabong Dakine Kona Red Kona Boys Vestal Futures
Recent Accomplishments 3rd Place at 2012 NSSA Explorer Menehune National Championships 1st Place Explorer Boys at the 2013 NSSA HI Regional Championships 2nd Place in age group at HSA State Surfing Championships for 2011
A girl of many talents, Mahina grew up at Sunset and learned to surf the break when most kids her age were still watching from shore. Bilingual, artistic, and smart, this competitor not only dreams of winning a world title, but also going to college, globetrotting with friends, and gaining a main sponsor. With a handful of recent NSSA wins and list of accomplishments proving her talent, this surfer is dedicating time and practice toward consistency. Not to mention sheâ€™s got her dad as a personal coach and mentor, who helps Mahina improve and progress on a daily basis. Part of the Hawaii Surf Team, Mahina travels around the world for ISA events, and mentions that her favorite part about being back in Nicaragua (for the 2013 ISA World Junior Surfing Championships) is seeing her good friends from the different regions and interacting with all the nations. This north shore local loves representing Hawaii and feels it is an honor to surf on the team. Letâ€™s get a little deeper with this Sunset charging surfer girl shall we?
She Rips / Mahina Maeda
Goals for the rest of 2013? Ultimately to get a main sponsor. And word hard. My dad wants to put me in QS events, but start small with the 2-star or 3-stars and then progress to the 4-stars. I’d like to travel more and be more mindful, more consistent. I have a tendency to do good in one contest and do bad in the other. I feel like I need to work on that and I want to be more consistent, I want to win more. Your favorite board: The pocket rocket that Glenn Minami just shaped me, it’s a really sick board. It’s good for small waves, flat waves, and it’s a 5-fin so I always change the setting. Your toughest competitors: Tati, Bailey, Moana, and Dax. Top 3 people you look up to and why: Carissa, obviously because she holds a world title and she’s a Hawaiian World Champion. And she’s a great influence to the littler kids. Coco because she’s been on the WT longer than anyone else has, even the men. Her consistency is improved and shows she can do it. And Alessa because we’re good friends and her dad believes in me too. Her dad actually compared me to Alessa when she was a little girl and I thought that was cool. Your challenges: School. And learning new maneuvers. Current progress: I’m trying to work on Larry laybacks and something that spins or flies in the air. I honestly want to master it. Airs, reverses, anything that’s complex and challenges me and makes the session more fun. Mahina Maeda, smooth style with power to spare. 3 things you couldn’t live without: DOB: February 15th, 1998 Age: 15 Hometown: Sunset Beach, Oahu Stance: Goofy Sponsors: Dove Wetsuits, Sexwax, Future Fins, Creatures, House of Marley. You’ve had quite a few accomplishments in the first half of 2013, which are you most proud of? I’m really proud of when I qualified for the Oakley World Juniors in Bali. I was the youngest competitor there and I ended up finishing higher than anybody in the Hawaii region. I ended up getting 5th place out of the whole world under the ASP.
My family, friends, and the ocean. Surf celebrity crush: Jack Freestone Last words for the Freesurf audience: Sponsor me! Check out my website and follow me on Instagram.
She Rips / Mahina Maeda
Recent Accomplishments 2nd Place ASP 2 star Pro Jr. @ Sunset, 2013 2013 NSSA Hawaii Explorer Women Conference Winner 2013 NSSA Hawaii Open Women Conference Winner 2013 NSSA Hawaii Open Girls Conference Winner 1st place Open Girls NSSA Regionals 2013
1st place 2012 NSSA Hawaii Regional Open Girls 1st place 2012 NSSA Hawaii Regional Explorer Girls 1st Place ASP 1 star Pro Jr. @ Queens 2nd Place ASP Hawaii Jr. Womenâ€™s Ranking
ASP / Kirstin
Hallman / XXL
2013 Billabong Rio Pro
Congratulations to the 2013 XXL Billabong Ride of Year Champion, Shane Dorian! Taking top honors for his incredible performance at Jaws this past winter, Dorian stood amongst a crowd of the planet’s best big wave surfers, photographers, filmers, and fans at the Grove in Anaheim, California. Also receiving awards were Shawn Dollar for both the Paddle Champion (and setting a new record of 61 feet) and Biggest Wave Champion, Greg Long for Mens Performance Champion, Keala Kennelly for Girls Performance Champion and Chris Shanahan for Wipeout Champion.
Stop No. 3 of 10 on the ASP World Championship Tour, the Billabong Rio Pro culminated in a high-performance showdown from the ASP Top 34, with Jordy Smith showing an impressive variety of technical airs and turns in the final against Adriano de Souza. Now No. 2 on the ASP WCT rankings, this event marks Jordy’s third career ASP WCT event win. Adriano’s win at Bells Beach combined with his runner-up placing at the Billabong Rio Pro propels the hard-working Brazilian to the No.1 position (over then rankings leader Kelly Slater) and ups his chances of being the first-ever Brazilian ASP World Champion.
S Morigo / ASP
Billabong XXL Awards
Seabass Joins Octagon Congrats to Sebastian Zietz who signed with Global, sports and entertainment marketing leader. “Seabass is one of the top young surfers in the sport who carries movie-star charisma that is fresh and appealing to fans and sponsors,” said Amen Teter, Octagon’s Action Sports Director. “The sky is the limit for Seabass.”
JJF’s Ankle Injury 2013 Reef ISA World Surfing Games Congratulations to South Africa’s standout Shaun Joubert for earning the gold medal in the Reef ISA World Surfing Games at Playa Santa Catalina in Panama. And to Australia’s Dimity Stoyle, the new Women’s Reef ISA World Surfing Games Champion. A webcasting debut, Freesurf is expanding their talents as Mike Latronic sat onboard this event’s team of live webcasters. 60
After suffering ligament damage in his ankle on a full-rote landing during a Quik Pro, Gold Coast Expression Session, John John is back at it. Although the 20-year old missed the Rip Curl Pro at Bells Beach and officially withdrew from the Billabong Pro, there’s no question that Fiji will be his comeback.
Keahi Parker, Photo: Akemi Saito-Zuroski
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Dragon Floatable Sunglasses Giveaway
Congratulations to Nicholas Hoermann of Honolulu for his winning Instagram photo at Baby Haleiwa. Displaying what we have to look forward to this season, Nicholas’s empty wave was a beautiful sentiment of summer. Freesurf hooked this photographer up with a summer prize pack complete with a tshirt, hat, stickers and a pair of Volcom slippers. Stay tuned for more Instagram contests coming up soon! (And we mean real soon).
Dragon has released its first ever collection of floating sunglasses, in five pairs of their most popular styles. And just to stoke you out, Freesurf is giving away a FREE pair on Instagram! Never lose your shades to the water again! Post a photo of your best floater and hashtag #freesurfmag #dragonalliance and #floatinggiveaway to be automatically entered to win. Contest closes on July 1st, so get those photos submitted soon! Staff will announce the winner via Instagram, so don’t forget to check back.
ASP / Kirstin
Good News For Bethany Hamilton Renewing her contract with Sticky Bumps Surf Wax’s Elite World Team, Bethany Hamilton will be recognized amongst the group with other members including Alana Blanchard, Leila Hurst, Coco Nogales, Sebastian Williams, Dave Rastovich, Neco Padaratz, Yuri Gonçalves, Marco Giorgi and Fellipe Ximenes. Wax Research President John Dahl comments, “Fearless and powerful, that’s Bethany Hamilton.” More on the Bethany radar, a recent blog post announced the engagement of Miss Hamilton to Christian youth minister Adam Dirks. Proposing on April 9th, Adam and Bethany leaked their exciting news on their personal blogs. Our congratulations to the happy couple and keep us posted on the wedding date!
Crown of Town This past May at Kewalo Basin, NoRep Boardshorts presented The Crown of Town, the 1st of a series of surf events. Top ASP Hawaii surfers and local pros challenged each other for a $5,500 prize purse, split in five divisions, in an aggressive “Winner Takes All” style of competition. Congrats to winners Dustin Cuizon, Nelson Ahina, Kaulana Apo, Mahina Maeda, and the team challenge winners, Kaito Kino, Isaiah Moniz, Ezekiel Lau, and Buddy Wiggins.
courtesy of Benson family
Freesurfsummer Instagram Contest Winner
Bebe Benson Passing Longtime supporter and promoter of women’s surfing Blanche “Bebe” Benson of the North Shore of Oahu, passed away at Pupukea on May 8, 2013 at the age of 83. Bebe is preceded in death by her son, Guy, and her loving husband, Col. Albert Benson, who was a well-known surf photographer after retiring from the army. They were both active supporters of the surf revolution during the late 60’s through the 80’s, and part of the North Shore surf history. Our condolences go out to Bebe’s family, friends and loved ones.
Surf with a smile
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With the first solid swell of the southern hemisphere season behind us, we can only think ahead to what is yet to come... Nathan Fletcher is hoping for more of the same. Photo: Nelly / SPL