Africa, travel, conservation, tourism, destinations

Africa Wexpeilriendce September 2013

Travel experience: Ngorongoro Crater Focus On: Our Heritage Sites

Destination: Mopane Lodge, Mapungubwe Travel - Wildlife - Conservation - 2013 Nature - Tourism Africa Wild experience - September

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from the Boma . . .

Africa Wild experience

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Africa Wild experience is experiencing change!

W

ild greetings to all our regular readers and a warm welcome to the many new subscribers!

It is so rewarding to note the monthly growth of Africa Wild experience!

It has been a busy month for the production team, with the launch of our new blog page and the design changes made to our website.

Very exciting too!

As each month goes on there will be more changes and additions, so keep spreading the word to friends, family and like-minded wildlife enthusiasts. The more folk we can reach, the better.

Congratulations to the Rhino Knights team on completing their epic run/ride journey in aid of Rhino Anti-poaching awareness. We salute you guys and trust that your efforts will not go unnoticed or unsupported. It will require a total onslaught on the poachers if we want to save our wildlife.

Having recently celebrated our National Heritage during September month, we have included an article on the South African National Heritage sites. These are part of our history and culture and we, as South Africans, are proud of them.

Every effort must be made to continue to protect these sites and to ensure that our children’s children can get to visit them and appreciate them. We would love to hear from readers who may have visited any of them at some time. Send your pictures too!

Also featured is a travel article through parts of Tanzania by Liezel Basckin, with some great photographs from her. I was fortunate enough some years ago to spend two months working in those parts and I have travelled some of those roads.

All I can say is..awesome!

Also featured is Mopane Lodge in the Limpopo province which is worth a stay if you are considering visiting in the Mapungubwe area.

So, lots to read about, with some super pics! Enjoy!

Keep it Wild!

Africa Wild experience - September 2013

Mike Nunan

Contents 4

Destination Wild

Craters of Life - Ngorongoro ................................4

Bush Journal

Around My Dam! .................................................10

Conservation Wild

Rhino Knights’ Isabel completes her epic ride/run! .................................................15

Conservation Wild

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South African World Heritage Sites ..................16

Destination Wild

Mopane Bush Lodge - Mapungubwe ................22

Book Wild

Bush Vet ................................................................27

Photo Wild

In and around Ngorongoro Crater ...................29

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Northern Tanzania

Travel News & Views

Stop Rhino Poaching! ..........................................36

Special Note: Africa Wild experience is a fully interactive publication - all urls shown, as well as logos, are linked to their respective websites.

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27 Cover Picture Lake Magadi in the Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania Pic by Liezel Basckin

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Destination Wild

Craters of Life Ngorongoro

S

peak the word “crater”, and you conjure up visions of centuries’ old volcanic turmoil and its forsaken aftermath. They are images consisting of grey barren cavities or voids, hollows or even empty spaces. Obviously they are also expected to be distances removed from anything fertile or of abundance.

Yet, a visit to the Great Rift Valley of Tanzania would reveal the opposite to be true, here the Craters of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area are wondrously seen to be overflowing with the richness of life found therein.

As with most itineraries to the area, ours began with a landing at the Kilimanjaro International Airport. And just in case we were still unsure of exactly what lay ahead, a billboard there presented it perfectly: “It’s rough…it’s dusty…but it’s an adventure!”

The first night is then typically spent in Arusha, a town beautifully set in the green shadows of Mount Meru.

At a height of approximately 4566 m (14,980 feet), this grand old dormant volcano would naturally provide a great challenge to any distinguished climber, but has sadly lost most of the limelight to her taller neighbour, Kilimanjaro, nearby.

The town itself has a wonderful essence of the old and new combined, with an intimate mixture of fancy hotels, mottled goats, overflowing taxis, rundown empty shells, and international schools with manicured sports fields.

Modernization has possibly been speeded up with the presence of the United Nations International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda (UNICTR).

Definitely not to be missed in this area, is the flavoursome cooking attributable to ancient Indian influence. Indians were originally introduced into East Africa as labourers for the construction of railway lines, but due to their industrious nature, they soon established shops and trade routes and today control a significant amount of the area’s commerce. They inspired, too, many dishes of Indian style mixed with fresh local spices.

For a culinary experience with a difference, try the Indian restaurant at the Impala Hotel, or Big Bite located in the heart of town. Also recommended is a local sidewalk barbeque, known as “Khan’s” or “Chicken on the Bonnet”.

But don’t be alarmed when you realize that this eatery doubles up as an automobiles’ spares shop during daylight hours. In East Africa, that is how business is done.

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Africa Wild experience - September 2013

Africa Wild experience accompanies wildlife photographer

Liezel Basckin

on a journey through Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania The local askari (watchman) wishes us “safari njema”, good journey in Swahili, as we depart shortly after dawn. Now following the Northern Wildlife Circuit, we pass Maasai Boma’s and mirages of flaming-red cattle herders, soon to reach the village of Mto Wa Mbu, that suitably means “River of Mosquitoes”.

It is a lively touristy village, and a striking reminder of a period when socialism was enforced by the government.

With its ethnic mixture of close on fifty different tribes, and each still practising its own traditional farming techniques, several colourful markets have resulted. There you will be offered a sample of home-brewed banana beer, and a choice of more than thirty banana varieties - the red ones were most appealing to us. Interestingly, from March to April each year, thousands of Yellow-billed Storks can be seen frequenting this area, as the roadside foliage becomes their breeding grounds once more.

Moving on, we gradually start to climb the steep Western shoulder of the rift valley, and a magnificent view of Lake Manyara and her pink flamingo colonies opens up to our

left. As we travel on, we find that the road that was previously no better than a donga was recently repaired and tarred by a Japanese Civils Company. It is so much better now that it more than halved our travelling time compared to previous trips, but for this progress, we can only hope no East Coast fishing rights were exchanged.

Reaching the escarpment, the countryside appears to be fertile and hilly supporting maize, beans, barley and coffee farms. Here and there, homely inns and guesthouses are seen scattered amongst these plantations, this is also where the famous “Gibbs Farm” with its spectacular view is located. (Picture below left).

It is not long though, before the scenery transforms to thick lush forests, as we approach the base of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. This actual Conservation Area lies between the Serengeti National Park and the Western Escarpment of the Great Rift Valley, consisting of a brilliant kaleidoscope of regions, ranging from the flat extensive grasslands of Salei Plains, to Olduvai (Oldu-

Africa Wild experience - September 2013

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pai) Gorge famous for its archeological findings, to the forest-clad crater highlands, and lastly the three craters themselves, of which Ngorongoro Crater is the largest and most central, with Olmoti and Empakaai Craters being less frequently visited.

It must be noted that even though they are referred to as craters, the more accurate terminology would be calderas.

Meaning, they are volcanoes which collapsed inwards and formed basins as their lava withdrew.

Firstly, the formalities must be completed at the entrance gate where a separate permit must be obtained for descending into the Ngorongoro Crater, as well as an official guide if you are driving yourself. From here, the route zigzags steeply between dense forest canopies decorated by lichens, orchids and mosses to reach a height of around 2,200 meters (7,218 feet), with the temperature dropping drastically as you descend. So don’t be deceived, being near the equator does not always guarantee summer-like temperatures.

From this road, leopards are occasionally seen and there is evidence of well tread elephant and buffalo paths. A closer look at the clay ridges to the side will reveal tusk marks and holes where elephants regularly delve for their muchneeded mineral supplements.

Finally we reach the rim, where one experiences the first overwhelmingly breathtaking view of the Ngorongoro Crater (above).

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As if in a fantasyland, the immense crater floor reflects a dreamy maze of colours surrounded by a backdrop of tall green cliffs. Given the chance to collect one’s thoughts again, a more scrupulous look uncovers the glistening waters of Lake Magadi in the centre, the Lerai Forest and its Yellow-barked Acacias to the left and thousands of tiny specks representing life within.

It is a similar view to the one Dr Oscar Baumann had in 1892, as the first European explorer to set eyes on the crater, except that the animal numbers would have been conspicuously more back then.

Of course, this was not always a protected wildlife area.

Besides being utilized by Maasai tribes, two Siedentopf brothers also ran their farms including a cannery on the crater floor in the early 1900s. During this time they had free reign and shot as they pleased, wiping out large game numbers.

Through both German and then British occupation its future was always hanging in the balance, and the uncontrolled hunting took its toll.

It was only in 1959 that it was finally declared a Conservation Area, and steps were taken to remove human habituation from the crater floor.

Today, the Maasai are no longer permitted to reside within the crater itself, they are however granted grazing and watering rights.

Africa Wild experience - September 2013

They live as pastoralists outside the rim, which is still within the Conservation Area. This provides an ongoing challenge of managing the balance between human interference, livestock, conservation of wildlife ecosystems and tourism. Two of these Maasai Boma’s are open to visitors throughout the year.

Along the crater rim itself, several accommodation options from basic through to luxury lodges are found, as well as a few bitterly exposed camping sites.

The majority of the rooms available will have uninterrupted views of the crater, otherwise be sure to request one. There is also the convenience of a fuelling station and an airstrip in these surrounds.

Descending into the Ngorongoro Crater will take you into an unmatched wildlife haven full of spectacular sights and close encounters. Often referred to as the “Garden of Eden” or “Noah’s Ark”, it is approximately 260 square kilometers in size and home to a surprisingly large variety of animals and birdlife.

Once on the crater floor, one is spoilt for choice and we decide to first head for the alkaline shores of Lake Magadi where Serval Cats are occasionally seen in stalk-mode closing in on the pink shimmer of flamingoes. One morning we watched as a Serval lay statue-like in the mud, patiently awaiting his lucky break, until a troublesome Golden Fox arrived on the scene and gave a loud warning bark, exposing the “enemy” to all.

The nearby “Hippo Pool” is picturesque with its resident flock of white Egrets regularly seen scattering toward the

skies. Many of the animals may come and go from the crater as they please, but for others such as the hippopotami with their hefty physiques, the crater walls will create a natural barrier for the duration of their lives.

Moving onto the open plains area, the soft green carpets of clover are still a reminder of the early cannery in operation during the 1900s. Here two very handsome antelope types are seen bouncing and grazing about. They are the Grant’s and Thomson’s Gazelles (bottom left), both importantly named after famous early explorers; James Augustus Grant and Joseph Thomson.

Also found on these grasslands are large herds of zebra, white-bearded Wildebeest and Buffalo, with Ostriches and Grey Crowned Cranes striding and dancing in between.

Amongst these herds, lookout for their faithful groomers, the Yellow-billed Oxpeckers and Wattled Starlings.

And with no shortage of open space, the spotted hyenas still follow their traditional hunting methods of outrunning and tiring their prey down over several kilometres. The large clans and tough inherent competition within the crater, does however mean that a successful kill will not always guarantee a successful meal.

Also high on the food chain is the concentrated population of lion found in the crater. They are regularly seen and appear fairly undisturbed by vehicles. The male lions are particularly attractive, with thick black manes stretching almost as far back as their waistlines.

Despite this, many studies have been conducted and concerns voiced over the shrinking gene pool of these big cats. One such study was presented by Professor Craig Packer in his work known as “Captive in the Wild”.

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His findings indicated that a reduced lion population over the years together with the confines of the crater walls has reduced the availability of mating lions, thereby causing inbreeding and reduced genetic diversity, which in turn results in the increased incidence of abnormal sperm, infertility rates rising and birthrates falling.

In the long run each animal will have a weakened immune defence system and reduced overall fitness. This situation is known as Genetic Bottlenecking and will leave the entire population vulnerable to the threat of an epidemic and potentially becoming locally extinct.

There are similar concerns regarding the fate of the cheetah in the crater, and this unfortunately paints a very bleak picture.

However, ongoing research and projects are being conducted by the Frankfurt Zoological Society to increase populations, and preventative measures such as anti-rabies campaigns are undertaken in neighbouring villages.

With no shortage of atmospheric updrafts and thermals in this area, Augur Buzzards and Black-chested Snake-Eagles are frequently seen suspended in the skies above. At the same time, no self-respecting roadside puddle could ever be without a family of Egyptian Geese squabbling at its fate.

Also of interest was seeing Yellow-throated Sandgrouse,

with the chicks suckling from the male parent. Cleverly built for survival, the parent is able to absorb water into his chest plumage, transport it for some distance and then enable the young to drink from these feathers.

Heading across towards the Ngoitokitok Springs Picnic Site, we had close roadside viewing of Kori Bustards, Capped Wheatears, Rufous-naped Larks and Rosy-breasted Longclaws.

Bat-eared foxes were also seen in the early mornings sunning themselves close to their dens, and on one opportunity we even saw a porcupine still foraging about in daylight hours.

At the actual picnic site, be aware of the Yellow-billed Kites as they have developed the vicious inclination of swooping directly at you for food.

Passing Gorigor Swamp to our left, we approach the small forest patch known as Lerai Forest - Lerai being the name of Yellow-barked Acacia in Maasai.

From a distance, the profiles of Marabou Storks’ are most often seen lining its trees.

This forest is home to great old elephant bulls sporting magnificent tusks. Elephant cows and calves tend to remain in the highland forests, whilst the bulls wander down to the crater floor at age twelve or older, thereafter moving solo or associating with other bulls from time to time.

Also of great significance is the population of Black Rhino found here.

Poached down to only thirteen by 1994, project “SOS Rhino� was introduced and now a Rhino Protec-

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Africa Wild experience - September 2013

tion Task Force monitors and protects the whereabouts of these precious beasts. To assist, two fertile females were also imported from South Africa. The progress is measurable but slow, due to a rhino’s reproductive cycle taking approximately two and a half years.

Other than the magnificent Ngorongoro Crater, both Empakaai and Olmoti Craters may also be visited. Even though you are unable to descend by vehicle, the views from their rims are magnificent. One of the best ways to experience this area would be to join one of the organized crater highlands hikes, which may also incorporate a visit to Lake Natron and Oldoinyo Lengai if your schedule allows.

After such a visit, one can only be humbled and grateful

that such opportunities still exist in our world today. It can by no means be taken for granted, and so a special thank you must go to the Tanzanian Authorities for recognizing the importance of protecting these wild areas, and also to the Frankfurt Zoological Society for its ongoing contribution towards conserving them. Their perseverance is profound. More often than not, people become overwhelmed by the task that lies ahead, which reminds us of two relevant sayings: “It is better to light a candle than to curse the darkness”: a Chinese Proverb, and “Even if the end of the world is coming to-morrow, To-day I shall plant a young apple-tree”: by Martin Luther.

Africa Wild experience - September 2013

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Around My Dam!

M

y life and work out on Game Reserves around the Southern parts of our beautiful continent has brought me into daily contact with sights, sounds and events involving wildlife which many folk may only read about, mostly here in Africa Wild experience!

I have been very fortunate and blessed.

the stoep (veranda or porch), whether night or day. Just sitting, sipping a cup of hot tea in the early morning before sunrise or a cold beer in the late afternoon after sunset.

Much has happened around both my work place and my dwellings over the years. Some of these were dramatic while some have simply been a joy to observe and experience.

What can I expect to see or hear on a daily basis or whenever I get other visitors from the reserve?

I am currently working on a Big Five game reserve which has a full diversity of activities, ranging from game viewing in 4 x 4 open vehicles, horse and elephant back safaris as well bush and bird walks.

I am privileged to live in a small cottage (see picture right) which overlooks one of the many pretty dams on the reserve. There is a massive mahogany pod tree out front and the view from my front porch is absolutely nothing short of amazing. (See the picture above).

I spend as much of my free time as I can out on 10

Watching.

Listening.

This is my time, away from staff and guests. As the boss, I need this time alone to recharge.

Over time, the list is long, but there are my regulars, my pets so to speak, who share the dam with me. We have become neighbours and friends.

Bush Journal

Africa Wild experience - September 2013

Jack and Jill, a pair of Egyptian Geese. Aggressively defending their patch from any interlopers. Honking their coarse warnings at every opportunity.

A flock of Helmeted Guinea Fowl, continually scratching in the grass for the last of the seeds I throw out for them.

A family of Natal francolin, getting nearer to me as each week goes by. I will soon have them eating out of my hand, as I managed to achieve at two previous locations. They seem to tame easily.

And then there are the beautiful Striped and Woodland Kingfishers, with their unmistakable calls. Pied Kingfishers, hovering and diving for the small bream in the dam. A nesting pair of Paradise Flycatchers. Harry the Grey Heron, a loner, like me. Cape Turtle Doves, Brown Headed Parrots, Red-Billed Wood Hoopoes and African Hoopoes, Red and Yellow-billed Hornbills.

dry, by spreading their wings out wide, thereby exposing their threatening eye-like patterns and hissing loudly!

A nesting pair of Water Thick Knees. They laid two eggs in a shallow, open nest next to the water’s edge (see picture), and it is a joy to watch them defending their clutch from all and sun-

The mammals too are regular and plentiful. Giraffe often journey in to browse from the many Acacia and other trees around the dam. Watching them drink never fails to amuse.

And of course, what would a dam be without the ever-present, fearless and aggressive Blacksmith Lapwings! They too nested and hatched out four little ones and woe betide any bird, animal or human who dares to come too close!

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The Gardenia tree recently flowered and one day I counted eleven giraffe surrounding that poor tree. Within an hour there was not a flower left!

The elephants visit periodically, but this is not always a good thing! Besides debarking the trees, they have a nasty habit of digging out my water pipe which comes from the reservoir, leaving me without water until they depart and we can mend the offended section.

A Small Spotted Genet makes his rounds a few nights a week and I have been tossing out a few Chop bones for him to nibble on.

Or is he a she? Unsure at this stage.

Kudu, Zebra, Wildebeest, Waterbuck, Bushbuck and a large herd of Impala are almost daily visitors, coming down to feed and drink.

One only needs to sit still and they pass close by. I have found that I can speak to them fairly loudly and they do not take flight, whereas any movement sends them scattering.

Two separate families of Warthog spend a lot of time around the dam. I have often wondered if someday I may witness one of them being taken by a crocodile.

The White Rhinos are also regulars, grazing happily on the grass, huge piles of dung left behind like some form of business card.

Hippos come and go for a few nights, as they move between the dams on the reserve.

Then of course there are the periodic visits from the two lionesses. They seem to have a routine and regular route which they follow and they are often around the cottage, mostly at night.

Some nights when I arrive home from the lodge they are both lying on the cement slab I use as a parking bay next to my bedroom window. I remember once they were on either side of the vehicle and I had to move one off with the Land Rover in order to get them both on the passenger side, so that I could slip out and skip the three steps into my back door!

Not the adrenalin rush one would want after a long day at the office!

What else?

Oh yes, how could I forget - Vervet Monkeys!

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Africa Wild experience - September 2013

Ever watchful for that opportunity when I fail to close up the cottage. It happened only once. What a mess I returned home to!

They do however provide some entertainment as they play and skirmish with each other on the dam wall, trying to catch Guinea Fowl! Have yet to see them succeed.

Reptiles? Well, I have Corky the Crocodile and his smaller cousin in the dam. Corky was named after he snuck up on a yellow plastic fishing float one of my young nephews was using as he tried to catch a fish, when last they visited me.

The croc simply snapped its mighty jaws around it and smashed it to smithereens, as if to say“No Fishing Allowed, they are all mine!�

There are many catfish in the dam and Corky spends a lot of his time, when he is not basking out on the bank, herding the fish into the shallows and hunting them down. (See picture: Corky plus catfish, below) There are a few Water Monitor Lizards lurking around too, much to the consternation of the Blacksmiths and Thick Knees. Fortunately I have not seen any snakes around, but I do have a Rainbow Lizard who lives under my fridge.

He gets in and out under the back door, so he is happy.

As I mentioned, the list is endless.

I am sure I have left many off.

But that is not the point.

The point is, well, I am not sure really.

All I can say is that Around my Dam there is always something happening, if one just takes the time to sit, observe and listen.

Nature will never fail to inspire you.

Keep it Wild!

Keeps the fly numbers down too.

Bush Journal is written by people who live in, work in, and experience Africa Wild daily and are dedicated to its preservation.

Text and Pictures by Mike Nunan Africa Wild experience - September 2013

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Explore Africa . . . .

Africa Wild experience promotes the continent of Africa and neighbouring islands as

preferred travel and holiday destinations for both national and international tourists.

It is aimed at premium and family travellers, wildlife enthusiasts and adventure seekers - all those who enjoy nature and the beautiful outdoors and are interested in exploring unique, amazing places, and who are supportive of wildlife conservation issues and thrive on that distinctive call of the wild resounding in their hearts…

Africa Wild experience will make it possible to fulfil these expectations by exposing our readers to these opportunities and experiences through excellent local and international content . . .

Travel destinations can promote their Special Offers directly to our readers in our Africa Wild Travel & Safari section. We will make the bookings on your behalf!

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Africa Wild experience - September 2013

Conservation Wild

Rhino Knights’ Isabel completes her epic ride/run!

I

n our previous issue we highlighted Isabel Wolf-Gillespie of Rhino Knights, a group creating awareness of the plight of the rhino, while she was on her epic 10000km ride/run around Southern Africa. She completed the trip on September 18 - here are her thoughts:

I am sitting in front of my laptop with an overwhelming amount of admin to do but I am not sure where to start to be quite honest…

Normally I write a list and tick off the boxes as I am going along but today, very untypically for me, I feel my mind drifting off every so often and I catch myself starring out the window for I don’t how long...

Realization has not yet dawned on me but clearly I am processing something…

Just yesterday, my husband Lloyd Gillespie, my sister Raphaela Wolf and I along with our ridgeback Mr P arrived back in Durban after 4 months and 18 days on the road on the Rhino Knights campaign around Southern Africa.

Lloyd and I have worked on this for over a year pouring all our heart and energy into it and the preparation period was incredibly stressful, hitting barrier after barrier, having to battle through people’s doubts.

Raising financial support and product sponsorship was almost impossible to get and in the end we financed the campaign to 90% ourselves. I am exhilarated to say that despite all odds we made it and we are very proud of what we have achieved.

On this note I want to thank those that have supported us, be sure to know that without you this

would not have been possible.

Rhino Knights, a campaign aimed at educating children on the importance of wildlife conservation with the current rhino poaching crisis spearheading the campaign. From Durban I have run and cycled 9,259 km’s through some of the most beautiful countries in the world to raise awareness of Africa’s wildlife locally and internationally.

I am originally from Germany, having only lived in South Africa for the past 5 ½ years and when I came to this country for the first time I am embarrassed to say that I knew nothing about Africa, its wildlife or the current situation.

The challenges behind conserving these beautiful animals and their natural habitats are far greater than I ever expected.

I truly believe that environmental education from an early age, though only long-term, is vital and I see myself growing this side of Earth Awareness with new-found energy and vision.

Amazingly I am not tired or feel like I need a rest after the last few months, the total opposite is the case!

Having had moments and time for reflection whilst on the bike or running, I can’t wait to put new projects into action.

This week I have received an email from our German publisher with the very awesome news that our book has gone into print and will be published soon!

Keep supporting us and stay in touch! Stay well & happy! Isabel www.earthawareness.co.za

Africa Wild experience - September 2013

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South African World Heritage Sites

W

hile travelling through Victoria Falls en route to the beautiful Chobe area of northern Botswana, the question posed by one in our party was whether the Victoria Falls was one of the natural wonders of the world.

As a child at school we had to know these lists, which included the seven natural wonders of the world as well as the seven man-made wonders of the world. Only later into my adult life did I question why the list had only included seven wonders!

There are at least that many in South Africa alone!

Anyway, Victoria Falls is on the list of natural wonders of the world and it is also on the list of World Heritage Sites, which is what we are more concerned with nowadays.

This list includes many properties, places, buildings, areas and other specific venues which have been declared as Heritage Sites. This means that the area or place has some unique value, not only to the local inhabitants of that area, but also to the benefit of greater mankind.

Let us examine the South African list a little deeper, in no particular order. Sometime in a later issue I will look at the rest of Southern Africa.

Sterkfontein Fossil Hominid Sites The Sterkfontein Fossil Hominid sites, (Cradle of Humankind) outside Johannesburg, were

Each year more and more sites are added, and this bodes well for their future preservation.

Southern Africa is blessed with a good few of these sites, with South Africa heading the list on eight, Tanzania and Zimbabwe each with five, Malawi with two and Botswana, Namibia, Mozambique and Zanzibar each having one.

Hopefully many readers will have been to some of them and, like me, will want to add the rest onto their “to-do� list, and then get to them.

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Africa Wild experience - September 2013

declared in 1999 and it is here where the famous Mrs Ples skull (see picture left) was found in 1947, by Robert Broom and John T Robinson, proving human occupation dating back over 3.3 million years.

Other fossil finds and traces of human habitation have contributed greatly to the puzzle of our early ancestors, identifying several specimens of hominids, dating back over 4.5 million years.

The Sterkfontein Caves were more recently (1998) in the news with the discovery of “Little Foot”, the nickname given to an extraordinarily complete fossil hominin skeleton found in the cave system of Sterkfontein.

The remains, identified by Dr Ronald Clarke, are now believed to be that of a unique Australopithecus species previously found at Makapansgat and Sterkfontein Member Four, Australopithecus Prometheus.

Picture (left below) shows the skeleton of “Little Foot” being excavated.)

Vredefort Dome

Slightly south west of Johannesburg, about 120km away, sits the Vredefort Dome. This is the oldest astrobleme found on earth, clearly showing meteorite impact dating back over 2000 million years. (Below - Satellite picture of the Dome, courtesy of NASA. Top: part of the Vredefort Dome today) Who says our earth is not old!

The crater is about 380km wide and is also the largest found anywhere. I was fortunate some years ago to be able to compete in a foot race whose route took me into the crater, along parts of the floor and up along the edges. It was really a great day and one that I cherish.

Some facts about the Dome: The meteorite impact happened about 2023 million years ago, at a time when there were no people or even animals of plants like we see today. The only living thing was a type of algae, like the green slime seen in dams today.

To make a crater that wide, the meteorite must have been about 10km across (as big as a mountain) and travelling at more than 10km per second (36 000km/h!).

The Vredefort Dome is only the central part of the impact crater. It is called a dome because the rock layers were bent into the shape of an upside-down bowl 90km across by the impact.

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Mapungubwe Moving further north onto the border with Zimbabwe and Botswana, at the confluence of the Limpopo and Shashe Rivers, lies the open expansive savannah landscape of the Mapungubwe site.

This area served as the central fortresses and palaces of the Chiefs and Kings of the largest kingdom in the sub-continent. The area was abandoned in the 13th century, but the outline of the buildings can still be seen today.

It was the capital of the Kingdom of Mapungubwe, a fairly sophisticated culture predating the Kingdom of Zimbabwe, with trade links with the African east coast.

Large amounts of gold and other artefacts (see below) have been taken from the site and reside at the University of Pretoria.

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uKhalamba Now into the east, into the magnificent Drakensberg mountains of Kwazulu-Natal, to the area known as uKhalamba. The natural beauty and combination of high peaks, gorges, valleys, grasslands, streams and craggy cliffs makes this area an absolute must-see.

The diversity of habitats found here protects a high level of endemic and threatened bird and plant species.

The uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park covers 242 813ha (2 428km2) of area.

The park spans parts of both South Africa and Lesotho, and includes Royal Natal National Park, a provincial park, and Drakensberg National Park, which covers part of Drakensberg, the highest mountains in Southern Africa.

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It is described by UNESCO as having “exceptional natural beauty in its soaring basaltic buttresses, incisive dramatic cutbacks, and golden sandstone ramparts... the site’s diversity of habitats protects a high level of endemic and globally threatened species, especially birds and plants.

It also contains many caves and rock-shelters with the largest and most concentrated group of paintings in Africa south of the Sahara, created by the San people over a period of 4000 years. It makes one wonder about these fascinating folk, who seem to have been equally at home high up in the mountains or in the harsh Kalahari, where their paintings can also be found, both in Botswana and Namibia.

iSimangaliso Park Next we travel further east and north up along the South African Coast, until we reach the St. Lucia Wetland Park, also known as the iSimangaliso Park.

This unique mixture of land and sea has, over time, produced a variety of landforms, including coral reefs, long sandy beaches, coastal dunes,

lake systems, swamps, and reed wetlands.

Each form providing critical habitats for a range of species from marine, wetland and savannah environments.

The iSimangaliso Wetland Park was listed as South Africa’s first World Heritage Site in December 1999 in recognition of its superlative natural beauty and unique global values.

The 332 000ha Park contains three major lake systems, eight interlinking ecosystems, 700 year old fishing traditions, most of South Africa’s remaining swamp forests, Africa’s largest estuarine system, 526 bird species and 25 000 yearold coastal dunes – among the highest in the world. The name iSimangaliso means miracle and wonder, which aptly describes this unique place.

It includes Kosi Bay, Coastal Forest, Lake Sibaya, Sodwana Bay, uMkhuze, False Bay, Western Shore, Eastern Shores, Lake St Lucia Estuary (See picture left) and Maphelane. ‘iSimangaliso must be the only place on the globe where the oldest land mammal (the rhinoceros) and the world’s biggest terrestrial mammal (the elephant) share an ecosystem with the world’s oldest fish (the coelacanth) and the world’s biggest marine mammal (the whale)’ – Nelson Mandela.

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Richtersveld Cultural and Botanical Landscape

aged by the semi-nomadic pastoral Nama people, who still build their traditional portable rush matroofed homes, known as haru om, just as they have been doing for over two millennia.

Across the country on our western border, in the Northern Cape, lies the Richtersveld Cultural and Botanical Landscape, which covers over 160,000 hectares of stunning, mountainous desert region of the Karoo, home to numerous succulents found only in these environs.

This leaves us with our last two sites, both found on the southern tip of the country.

This is the newest of South Africa’s World heritage Sites, and was proclaimed in June 2007.

This area is communally owned and man20

Robben Island One is the infamous Robben Island, which was used as prison or hospital from the 17th through to the 20th centuries, but which is now seen more as a symbol of freedom and democracy.

This due mainly to the fact that Mr. Nelson Mandela, South Africa’s first black President (see picture top right - with Walter Sisulu), spent the majority of his 27 years as a prisoner of the State on the island.

It was declared a World heritage Site in 1999 From the World heritage Site Inscription document:

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Robben Island and its prison buildings symbolise the triumph of the human spirit of freedom and of democracy over oppression.

Did you know that throughout the nineteenth century, numerous leaders of Xhosa, Khoi, Gcaleka in the Eastern Cape, the Korana in Northern Cape, and the Hlubi in Natal, were banished to the Island. They lived in traditional structures to the north of the bay, geographically separated from the village in the southeast.

Cape Floral Region The last site on our list is the world renowned region of the Cape Peninsula known as the Cape Floral Region. This consists of eight protected areas, stretching from the Cape Peninsula to the Eastern Cape, cutting across spectacular mountain and ocean scenery and containing some of the richest plant biodiversity in the world, and making up 553 000ha of unrivalled flora. This is the richest area of plant life in the world and although the land area covers less than 0.5% of the area of Africa, it

is home to nearly 20% of Africa’s flora!

A truly amazing belt and visitors should plan their visits carefully in order to get the full seasonal changes on offer. There is more to the Cape than Table Mountain!

I hope that someday soon I will be able to say that I have visited, explored and studied all the Heritage Sites in South and Southern Africa, as each is so very special and unique.

My wish is that you can too!

Let us all protect our Heritage as it belongs to us all!

Keep it Wild! Mike Nunan

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Destination Wild

Mopane Bush Lodge Mapungubwe

M

opane Bush Lodge is the ideal base for exploration of the Mapungubwe National Park and Mapungubwe World Heritage Site, a rich Cultural Landscape in both heritage and scenic beauty.

This exclusive, four star lodge provides gracious living and fine dining with true South African warmth and hospitality. Mopane Bush Lodge is personally managed and hosted by its owners and their management team, constantly ensuring attentive service and an authentic African experience, true to the hallmark of a classic safari...fellowship, fine food and the adventures of the day retold while seated around a flickering fire.

The Lodge is located within the pristine wildlife haven of Mapesu Nature Reserve, a private game farm for the exclusive use of guests of Mopane Bush Lodge. Whether you enjoy walking, cycling, tracking game, game viewing, birding or bush drives, this evocative wilderness area provides a safe environment for these activities.

The Lodge, which is nestled in the heart of vibrant mopane bushveld, is a place where the pursuit of tranquility has become an art form and where gracious living and sumptuous dining is as natural as drawing breath. Its spaces are textured with charming African renaissance design which are both simple and luxurious. Arriving at Mopane Bush Lodge, a breathtaking vista of the bushveld unfolds before you, calling you from the mezzanine entrance down the sweeping curved staircase and into the heart of the lodge.

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The facilities at Mopane Bush Lodge include: Eight secluded twin-bedded thatched chalets with en-suite bathroom, each situated in its own kraal with a veranda and an additional outdoor shower The views of the surrounding bushveld and beyond are unique to each chalet, with no view of any other building or development.

One chalet is designed and equipped to be wheelchair friendly.

The spacious bedrooms provide a relaxing environment in luxurious comfort, with top quality mattresses and bedding, generous cupboard space, a safe in each room, hair dryer, good lighting over a large mirror at the dressing table and at the bedside tables.

There is a tea/coffee station in every room.

A laundry service is available.

The bathrooms have spacious showers, large thirsty towels, good lighting over the basin with a large mirror above and shelf space on each side with an 110v/220v shaver plug.

The lodge pool, situated next to the full service bar and shady lapa is the perfect place to enjoy a revitalizing swim or sundowner drink.

A comfortable lounge provides the ideal retreat for those leisurely moments, with a cosy fire for wintry nights.

There is a small library with reference books and light reading material.

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Delicious meals, simply prepared, are served in the spacious dining room, on the lawn, in the boma around the fire under the brilliant southern night sky, in the lapa around the pool or in the bush.

Mapungubwe Mapungubwe National Park is a place that embodies the very soul of this primeval continent, an ancient valley where baobabs proliferate and sandstone outcrops preside over a landscape that resounds with heart-breaking beauty. Here you can stand on a ridge overlooking the confluence of two mighty rivers where three southern African countries converge, explore the green verges of Kipling’s greasy Limpopo and revel in the wonder of jaundiced fever trees, wrinkled elephants and dainty bushbuck, surrounded by a dazzling array of insect and avian life.

This is the northernmost South African national park and in addition to conserving the ecology of the Limpopo Valley it also protects the many historically significant African Iron Age archaeological and San rock art sites as well as dinosaur fossils and footprints. The boundaries of the Mapungubwe National Park will ultimately cover about 28000 hectares. The park will form the core of the proposed Greater Mapungubwe Trans-frontier Park incorporating parts of Zimbabwe, Botswana and South Africa.

This park offers the chance of seeing elephant, white rhino, lion, leopard, hyena, giraffe, eland, gemsbok, blue wildebeest, red hartebeest, zebra, kudu, waterbuck, impala, bushbuck, klipspringer and a variety of other animals.

South African National Parks has developed this beautiful park with roads, picnic sites, birding boardwalks and hides, walking trails and 4 x 4 trails. The park was officially opened on 24 September 2004.

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Mopane Bush Lodge takes its guests in an open game viewer to encounter the beauty of the park and Limpopo River.

San Rock Art “How is one moved by dusty old ochre graffiti?” you may ask. Well, let me tell you that a stroll through virgin bush country on paths created by wildlife to view what can only be described as the temples of the San is to step into an age before colonialism, before Iron Age Bantu civilizations, before Africa changed. The timelessness of these rock shelters and the images that adorn them speak of a continent wild and primeval, of a belief system that tied these diminutive people inexorably to the landscape and its denizens. They were, in their own staccato language, the first people.

Spending time in reflection, surrounded by ancient art painted on a rock, is an exercise in understanding and connecting with the very soul of our land. The art is a language that we are still trying to interpret; yet the underlying message is evident if you sit and gaze at the rock face and the art on it, if you listen to the wind and the birdsong. The images speak for the San:”We were here, we hunted here, and we worshipped this place and the living creatures within it. We knew this land and the land accepted us. The earth and the people were interwoven. We are gone now, it has all changed…but we were here before, we walked these game paths, hunted these valleys and lived in harmony with it all… before… when the earth was young”.

Guided tours to examples of this unique rock art collection can be arranged through Mopane Bush Lodge.

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A Passion Shared

50 South African wildlife photographers share their Images, Insights and Passion (Please Note; This is a 140Mb PDF file!)

Wildlife Conservation Revisited The new (old) Philosophy of Wildlife Preservation

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(Last two books provided with the compliments of Nikela)

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Africa Wild experience - September 2013

Book Wild

Bush Vet T

he gripping and controversial “Bush Vet” is an account of the difficult, dangerous and thrilling life of Dr Clay Wilson, who worked as a volunteer wildlife veterinarian in the Chobe National Park in Botswana.

In the bush, Wilson tended to injured and sick animals - the elephants, leopard, buffalo, lions and other animals for which the country is famous.

His passion and drive to preserve the wilderness sees him pitted against poachers and the forces driving poaching.

Not only does he experience great adventure and heart-rendering episodes tending to the wild animals that fall victim to accidents and disease, but increasingly he finds himself up against the ravages of poaching and the forces behind this. In the great stand-off between the need for a developing country to expand its agriculture and to preserve its unparalleled wilderness, Wilson sides with the animals and makes powerful enemies in the process.

Having been appointed Honorary Game Warden in Botswana, Wilson made the news when he was unceremoniously stripped of his title and deported from Botswana in 2011 for interfering in organised ivory and meat poaching.

No longer the pastoral paradise, Botswana was Wilson’s battleground, which landed him in life-threatening situations, and Bush Vet tells his story.

Wilson wrote Bush Vet with well-known Australian novelist Tony Park. The book is available in print and as an e-book, and contains full-colour photographs.

Specifications Author: Dr Clay Wilson with Tony Clark Title: Bush Vet ISBN: 9781415201787 Format: Softcover Release Date: September 2013 Imprint: Umuzi Pages: 192 Price: R220.00 (Click on the Struik logo for more information)

Clay Wilson (below left) was born in Johannesburg, but moved with his family to Mexico when he was two. He graduated in Zoology from the University of Florida and qualified as a veterinarian at Onderstepoort. He owned a veterinary clinic in Florida before moving to Botswana to volunteer as wildlife veterinarian for the DWNP (Department of Wildlife and National Parks) in Kasane. He is a worldwide wildlife consultant through his non-profit organisation, International Wildlife Rescue.

Tony Park is the author of Far Horizon, The Delta and African Dawn among other novels.

He was born in Sydney and has worked as a newspaper reporter in Australia and England, a government press secretary, a public relations consultant, and a freelance writer.

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Coming Soon!

A Whole New Africa Wild experience Africa Wild experience will soon undergo a complete metamorphosis in which our website and our unique e-magazine will combine to provide an unparalleled information and service resource for the eco-tourism, conservation and safari industry.

Already the magazine offers an eclectic blend of destination reviews, conservation information, personal bush experiences and practical advice. This will not change and will become even more exciting and topical!

What will change is that the magazine will draw you the reader back to the website for a wide variety of resources and services, including:

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Africa Wild experience - September 2013

Photo Wild In and around Ngorongoro Crater Northern Tanzania

by Liezel Basckin Africa Wild experience - September 2013

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Bat-eared Foxes

Egrets at Hippo Pool

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Young Maasai

Ngorongoro Cheetah Africa Wild experience - September 2013

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Flamingoes at Lake Magadi ... and their nemesis, the Serval Cat

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Ngorongoro Ostriches in Full “Flight�

The Minuet of the Ngorongoro Zebras Africa Wild experience - September 2013

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Stop Rhino Poaching!

NOW! Africa Wild experience liked this picture and the message it coveys so much that we decided to repeat it - we cannot have enough emphasis on this message if we are to save our rhino and other wildlife from the scourge of poaching.

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Africa Wild experience - September 2013