Couscous
For hundred of years, in the mountains of the Maghrib – present-day Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria, and Libya – women have come together to make couscous. They roll semolina, water, and salt, they sift and steam the grains, and then they spread the couscous to dry. It is a social event, rather like an American quilting bee, with an exchange of family news and perhaps a bit of gossip. Traditionally, the youngest woman in the group prepares m’semmen, a type of small pancake with honey served with coffee and tea. At the end of the day, each household has replenished its store of the staple food of North African life. Food historians differ on the origins of couscous. Some point to the reign of the first Berber King of Numidia (238-149 BCE) – corresponding to present day Algeria - based on tomb discoveries. Some suggest it was not until the Arab conquest of North Africa (632-732 CE) and the introduction of durum wheat. Whatever the origin, couscous has been deeply ingrained in both the cuisine and the religious and cultural life of Northern Africa for over 1000 years. continued on page 54
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