Foodies of New England Summer 2017 Edition

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Lazy Summer Night Dinners Local Chefs Share Mouth-Watering Recipes That Are Easy to Create

Best of...

Foodie Crawls Touring Newport, RI The Foundry Restaurant Farm-to-Table Meets the Industrial Revolution

Summer 2017 DISPLAY UNTIL OCTOBER 17, 2017

THE UNEXPECTED BLEND OF COGNAC & RASPBERRY PEACH

A Marriage Made in Heaven Grand Marnier® Raspberry Peach is a blend of the natural flavors of succulent European raspberries and rare red peaches from Ardèche in the south of France, combined with the world-renowned Grand Marnier®.

The result is an alluring and mixable spirit that is enjoyable on the rocks and delicious in cocktails.

Come taste the difference for yourself!

Peaches & Bubbly Berries In a champagne flute or short glass: 1 oz Grand Marnier Peach Raspberry 4 oz Prosecco 1.5 oz passion fruit juice or OJ Splash of pomegranate juice Peaches, raspberries, strawberries, blueberries, or blackberries for garnish Recipe by Adam Gerhart

Grand Marnier® Raspberry Peach Liqueur, 40% alc./vol. (80 proof). ©2017 Campari America, San Francisco, CA. Please enjoy responsibly.

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Summer 2017 Contributors Publisher: Mercury Media & Entertainment, LLC Managing Editor: Domenic Mercurio Contributing Editors: Julie Grady Thomas Jodie Lynn Boduch Director of Social Media: Jodie Lynn Boduch Much Ado Marketing Writers and Contributors: Ellen Allard, Adam Gerhart, Lina Bifano, Elaine Pusateri Cowan, Jodie Lynn Boduch, Ryan Maloney, David Kmetz, Eric Francis, Denny Corriveau, Julie Grady Thomas, Renee Bolivar, Matt Jones, Joan Arnold, Briana Palma, Ed Londergan, Kelly Lynn Kassa, Sarah Connell, Tom Verde, Craig Lindberg Professional Photography: Scott Erb & Donna Dufault Erb Photography Art Director: Rick Bridges Richard Bridges Design Website: Jodie Lynn Boduch Much Ado Marketing Account Manager: Domenic Mercurio Foodies of New England Magazine Box 380 Sturbridge MA 01566 domenic@mercurymediallc.com scott@erbphoto.com jodie@muchadomarketing.com rick@richardbridgesdesign.com All content Š2017, Mercury Media Entertainment All Rights Reserved Printed in USA Foodies of New England assumes no financial responsibility for errors in advertisements. No portion of Foodies of New England, advertising or editorial, may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written permission of the publisher.

The information contained in this publication is believed to be accurate, however the publisher does not guarantee its accuracy.

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By accepting advertising neither Foodies of New England nor Mercury Media Entertainment is endorsing or guaranteeing the quality of service or products within those advertisements. Every effort is made to ensure that the advertisements come from reputable companies, however we cannot take responsibility for how an advertiser deals with the public.

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Summer 2017

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Contents Features

14

Lazy Summer Night Dinners Local Chefs Share Mouth-Watering Recipes

42

14

Alvah Stone Perfection on a River

48

Healthy Summer Nights Foods That Will Keep You Fit & Trim

56

Lock 50

A Modern Stop Along a Historic Pathway

62

The Foundry

‘Tis the Season For Fresh Dining

56

72

Abundance Family Farm

Fresh Produce Growing in Charlton, Massachusetts

86

Pecorino

European Cheeses

90

Best in Foodie Crawls Dining in Newport, RI

72

Cover: Cod & Corn from The Good Table Restaurant in Cape Elizabeth, ME

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Foodies of New England

90

Departments

52

History of...

52

68

Couscous

60

Gluten Free Pad Thai

68

Gardens by Renee From the Garden to the Glass

78

Wild Cheff

Wild Rabbit Poutine with Tea Gravy

100

Healthy at Home Under Brick Chicken Picnic

108

Sweet Sensations Blueberry-Lemon Cloud Cake

112

Brew Review

The Foamy Head of the Medusa

114

Whiskey-Under Loch & Key

100

Whiskey Storage

118

Wines of Distinction Mozzafiato Moscato D’Asti

120

Liberating Libations Muggy Summer Nights

114 Summer 2017

7

Letter

from the

Editor

Those Lazy Summer Nights (Made Easy!)

Well, we’ve scoured New England in search of the solution to Lazy Summer Night Dinners… and we’ve found quite a few easy, fun, and delicious recipe options you can make right at home!

For starters, Briana Palma sets us off on our epicurean excursion, taking us up to Mill Pond Tavern in rustic Salem, New Hampshire, where the chef prepares and shares a couple of mouth-watering recipes that you can recreate right in your own kitchen! Then, Julie Grady Thomas ventures over to Pork & Pickles BBQ in Essex Junction, Vermont, for a real summer pleaser – Smoked Maple Baked Beans and BBQ Beef Ribs. Now that’s summer!

Join Jeff Cutler at The Good Table Restaurant in Cape Elizabeth, Maine, an eatery focused on “Good, Honest Food.” Owner and chef Lisa Kostopoulos lives by that motto in both preparation and pricing. Check out her Cod and Corn and Good Table Mussels

On a hot summer day, we’re all craving the moment when we can make it home from work, crawl into the house, and just relax.

But, obligations still abound, and the perpetual question looms, “What about dinner?”

recipes in this issue.

In Italian, Alta means high, as in high quality. Jodie Boduch voyages out to Lenox, Massachusetts, and discovers the true meaning of the word at Alta Restaurant. Further south in Stonington, Connecticut, our own Chef Tom Verde investigates Dog Watch Café, and comes up with a simple (but delightful) recipe for you to make at home – Dog Watch Seared Tuna.

But, if you’re looking to get out of town and take in the beautiful New England scenery, we’ve pinpointed a few sensational destinations in Newport, Rhode Island, as part of our Summer Foodie Crawl.

First, Kelley Kassa takes us to Fluke Wine, Bar & Kitchen. This is truly NOT your average watering hole, as exemplified by the Crispy Oyster with Red Chile Mayo recipe you’ll find inside. Newport has much more to offer, not the least of which is our next stop on the Foodie Crawl – The Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar. Their recipe for Portuguese Roasted Cod will make you scream, “Obrigado!” Got a hankering for dessert? Well just follow us over to The Red Parrot, a true Newport destination for exceptional and amazingly unique sweet treats. Try to make their Bananas Francesca in your own kitchen – one taste and it’ll become a favorite go-to dessert staple at your place!

Yes, we’re voyaging all over the great region of New England to offer you bits and pieces of foodie fabulousness. Get over to Manchester, New Hampshire with Eric Francis and see what the buzz is about at The Foundry Restaurant. In the heart of Massachusetts – Worcester – a swanky new establishment carves its niche in the center of the Canal District – Lock50. Join David Kmetz at this casual café by day and hip dinner destination by night, which serves up interesting and palate-pleasing small plates as a specialty. continued on page 12

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Foodies of New England

Grilled Asparagus Salad from The Foundry

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If you’re up for a scenic ride through Western Massachusetts, check out The Alvah Stone. Housed in the old Montague Sawmill, this modern and ingredient-focused eatery pays homage to the community’s milling community and is a fascinating gathering hub and destination for foodies out for an enjoyable summer meal.

If you feel like a stroll through a little slice of Europe right in Central Massachusetts, check out Pecorino in North Grafton. This country cheese shop is a meld of the old world and new, focusing on European cheeses and locallyproduced New England cheeses.

Our farm feature is the quaint, 2-acre, family-run Abundance Family Farm in Charlton, Massachusetts. Run by Whitney and Luke DeCiccio, this is quite accurately a family farm, serving the local community with the freshest farm-to-table produce to be found anywhere.

Trying to stay fit this summer? Take a look at what our Foodies Fitness Guru, Craig Lindberg, has to say about tasty food that won’t pack on the pounds. He shares a few great recipes from Chef Albert Maykel III of Bootleggers Prohibition Pub in Worcester, Massachusetts, including Tropical Turkey Crunch, Mediterranean Salmon, and Chicken Fattoulli.

And, of course, don’t forget to peruse our regular sheaf of departments, including Renee Bolivar’s Home Grown, Denny Corriveau’s Wild Cheff, Joan Arnold’s History Of…, Ellen Allard’s Gluten-Free, Lina Bifano’s Sweet Sensations, Matt Jones’ Brew Review, Ryan Maloney’s Whiskey…

Under Loch & Key, Elaine Cowan’s Healthy at Home, Adam Gerhart’s Liberating Libations, and Wines of Distinctions, by Yours, Truly.

Summer in New England is beaming with freshness and taste, and we at Foodies of New England magazine are so excited to bring you the many destinations, recipes, and fascinating people who dedicate their lives to making yours flavorful and full of fun this summer!

Domenic Mercurio, Jr. Editor/Publisher

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Foodies of New England

THE UNEXPECTED BLEND OF COGNAC & ORANGE

Drink With Style Created in 1880 by founder Louis-Alexandre Marnier Lapostolle, Grand Marnier® Cordon Rouge is a premium blend of cognacs with wild tropical oranges from the Caribbean.

A versatile spirit that can be enjoyed on the rocks or neat, yet is exceptionally delicious in cocktails.

Discover your style.

MANGO MARNIER 1.5 oz Cabo Wabo silver tequila infused with mango (or use 2oz of mango juice) 1 oz Grand Marnier 3 oz sour mix 1/4 oz lime juice Float Grand Marnier on top Recipe by Adam Gerhart

Grand Marnier® Liqueur, 40% alc./vol. (80 proof). ©2017 Campari America, San Francisco, CA. Please enjoy responsibly.

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Foodies of New England

The Good Table Honest Food from Family Written by Jeff Cutler Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

T

he tagline at The Good Table Restaurant proclaims an eatery focused on “Good Honest Food.” According to owner and chef Lisa Kostopoulos, “We try to live by that motto with the product we use, its preparation, and the pricing.”

In business for 30 years in Cape Elizabeth, Maine, Kostopoulos runs the restaurant with her father, Tony. The arrangement speaks of a commitment to family, food, and the community. In fact, when a fire decimated the restaurant in 2001, the pair knew without a doubt that they would rebuild and continue serving the region.

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So what is “honest” food?

Kostopou-

los explains that it’s as much derived from cooking style as it is a reflection of using locally sourced and sustainable ingredients.

She calls it clean and simple.

“If clean food is a cuisine, then that is it,” says Kostopoulos. “A perfect roasted chicken from a local farm, a simple grilled steak, a baguette from [local bakery] Standard Baking, some local butter and radishes, and the perfect tomato with sea salt atop.”

Two favorite dishes (recipes below) that Kostopoulos likes to prepare are Cod and Corn and Good Table Mussels.

The Cod and Corn is pan-seared Maine cod with a corn jus, heirloom tomatoes, and a green bean and basil salad. She loves this dish because in mid-summer it highlights all that is good in Maine.

A house favorite with lots of flavor, Good Table Mussels are a favorite any time of year.

Make as big a batch as you like—in fact, Kostopoulos prepares this on her Weber grill using natural charcoal to add a little smokiness. Tip: You can also make the butter, keep it in your freezer, and pull it out whenever you desire a big pot of mussels.

Underscoring the honest food theme, the chef tries to keep things simple while still being memorable. A seasonal approach works best at The Good Table, and Kostopoulos explains the types of dishes you might see this time of year.

“My favorite time of year to cook is summer into fall,” she says. “The tomatoes [and] the corn shout summer, then you can weave in the beginnings of fall with kale, Brussels

“We try to live by that motto with the product we use, its preparation, and the pricing.”

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Foodies of New England

Kostopoulos got involved in food service

sprouts, and fennel. Sometimes I like to

early because her parents owned over time

have a couple of seasons hold hands in a

a diner; a bar in Cambridge, Massachusetts;

single dish.”

and a truly authentic Greek restaurant in

The remarkable resources nearby help

Portland, Maine. The family’s love of good

Kostopoulos find a wide variety of suppliers

food reinforced Kostopoulos’ desire to run

and ingredients no matter what time of year

a restaurant.

it is—yet this is nothing new. “Having been

“I watched Julia Child and Jacque Pe-

in business for over 30 years,” she says, “we

pin and loved cooking,” she says. “But I

were ready before we knew it was trendy to

didn’t realize I was born to cook until I was

visit local growers and harvesters.” Local

dropped in my own kitchen. I have been

farmers raise pigs, cattle, rabbits, chickens;

lucky to have parents who are wonderful

then there’s the breadth of fruits and veg-

cooks and to have had a lot of chefs along

etables. That’s before mentioning coastal

the way who I have learned from.”

resources like shellfish and seafood.

Inspiration comes from meals she’s had or a unique ingredient. She goes as far as putting the word ‘stolen’ on dishes that are derivative creations…this includes cocktails, too. She tells of a multi-course meal she made using honey from 10 local beekeepers. The end result was a prix fixe dinner featuring wine and beer pairings with a handful of honey cocktails.

Best selling items on The Good Table menu include their giant cinnamon buns, Jaunita’s Breakfast Burrito, fresh roasted turkey (as a hot dinner or in a sandwich), and Kostopoulos’ steak tips. Those items, among others, are constants on the menu while their blackboard changes with new creations regularly.

The goal at The Good Table is to make people feel welcome. “We treat everyone like our family and in reality when you have been around as long as we have, you get to know people,” she says.

That’s the honest truth about honest food.

See recipe on page 18 The Good Table Restaurant 527 Ocean House Road Cape Elizabeth, ME 04107 207.799.4663 www.thegoodtablerestaurant.net

Owner and chef Lisa Kostopoulos

Summer 2017

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1/2 cup vegetable oil 3 Tablespoons lemon juice 1/4 tsp sugar 1/4 tsp dry dill 1/4 tsp dry oregano 1/2 tsp parsley 1/4 tsp mint 1 tablespoon chopped garlic stir well salt and pepper to taste Once fully cooled, cut green beans in half, add thinly slice red onion (about 1/4 of the amount of beans you have) and chopped fresh basil, and toss with some vinaigrette. Check for seasoning.

Slice heirloom tomatoes in nice size slices, and lay 2 down next to each other on a plate. Season with salt and pepper.

Take a piece of cod, a nice center cut around 7 ounces. Season with salt and pepper and add to a hot nonstick sauté pan with a tiny touch of oil in it.

Sear the cod. Do not be tempted to move it around; let it sit in the hot pan until it releases itself from the pan, around 2 minutes on high, then turn to medium heat for another 3 or 4 minutes. Flip fish and toss pan into a 375° oven to finish cooking.

Depending on how you like your fish cooked, cook anywhere between three and eight minutes. Cod should be easy to flake with a fork, but still have a little pull. Place cod on tomatoes, surround cod and tomatoes with corn jus, and top with green bean salad.

Cod and Corn

Good Table Mussels: 1 lemon zested and juiced 1/4 cup lemon juice

Corn jus is made by taking six ears of the best local corn (we prefer a hardy corn for this, not sugar and gold, but a pure yellow corn).

Cut the kernels off the ears and put them aside.

1 cup chopped shallots

Then, put cobs and one bay leaf into a shallow pot with 6 cups of heavy cream. Simmer this mixture for 15 to 20 minutes then take off heat and let it steep for two hours.

In a saute pan, sweat three diced shallots with the corn kernels in a little butter. You do not want color on the shallots. Add some of the corn cream and bring to a boil. Then strain the kernels and shallot and add that to a food processor. Process corn and shallots and add back corn cream, but only add enough cream to make a sauce that has some body to it and is not too thin (you may have some corn cream left over; this is great for a chowder). Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Blanch 2 handfuls of stem-free green beans in salted boiling water.

Cook only until they are bright green and still have crunch to them. Remove and immediately drop in to a big bowl of very icy salted water to stop cooking.

Vinaigrette Ingredients: 1/3 cup red wine vinaigrette 1/2 cup EVOO

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Foodies of New England

1 cup chopped garlic 3 lbs unsalted butter 1/2 cup EVOO 1/2 cup chopped parsley 1/2 cup chopped basil 1 tablespoon fresh chopped dill 1/2 cup good Parmesan cheese, grated Sauté shallots and garlic in a bit of the butter. Add the rest of the ingredients to a mixing bowl and mix until everything is well distributed.

Bring a large sauté pan to heat and add 1/2 cup white wine; a crisp sauvignon blanc is great. Add 2 lbs cleaned Maine mussels and bring wine to a boil.

Add a wedge of lemon and 1/2 to 3/4 cup butter mixture to pan and cover lightly. When mussels fully open, they are done.

Pour into a bowl and serve with a loaf of crispy French bread and a big green salad (the dressing you made for the green beans is perfect for this).

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A Sailor’s Welcome at the

Dog Watch Café

N

Written by Tom Verde Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

ot much separates the Dog Watch Café from the sea. A wall full of windows in the cozy restaurant’s dining room is all that stands between diners and the yacht-choked waters of Connecticut’s Stonington Harbor.

In summer, when the restaurant’s outdoor deck is open, that distance is reduced to a mere few feet of dock space.

The menu, likewise, teems with seafood: meaty sea scallops and oysters, fresh cod, and the establishment’s signature seared tuna.

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Foodies of New England

Summer 2017

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Even the name has nautical connections. The “dog watch” is the work shift aboard a ship from 4:00 to 8:00 p.m., so-called, many say, because that’s the hour when the “dog star,” Sirius, first ap-

ed, maximizing space, comfort, and the gorgeous view.

“We wanted to make it like walking into a house and feeling welcome,” says Eck.

pears in the blooming night sky. It’s also the time when the crew eats

That meant redesigning the menu as well, to make it affordable,

their dinner. Hence the clever double entendre, though Dog Watch

with sandwiches and salads from about $10 to entrees ranging from

co-owner David Eck initially had his doubts.

$15 to $25. Fresh fish remains a focus, with fish and chips a peren-

“Everybody said, ‘That’s the stupidest name we’ve ever heard,’” says Eck.

nial bestseller. Yet executive chef Jim Ward also wanted to think a bit out of the net, as it were, with the restaurant’s famed seared tuna.

That didn’t stop him or his partners – wife, Wendy, and old friend,

“He said he was not going to put tuna on the menu unless he

Clay Burkhalter – in 2008 from reviving what formerly had been a

could come up with a different way of preparing it,” Eck says. Ward’s

moribund restaurant at the location. It was a bold move, consider-

innovation is a cut of ahi tuna, dipped in a wasabi-mayonnaise bat-

ing none of them had ever owned a restaurant before. The daring

ter, crusted with panko, and seared, briefly, in sesame oil.

idea came about, appropriately enough, due to a mishap at sea two years earlier.

Tried and true bouillabaisse is another standard item: perfumey and infused with local fish, including Stonington’s own Bomster

“Clay was sailing in a race from France to the Azores, and he

scallops, a regional delicacy named for the family that fishes them,

broke his mast 600 miles from the finish line. So he struggled into

while local oysters (Watch Hill, Rhode Island) are available from the

port with makeshift rigging, and I flew into the Azores to see if we

raw bar.

could fix the boat together,” Eck recalls. Sitting at Peter’s Café, a

Meanwhile, the dining room is packed to the gunwales on any

famed, Azorean sailor’s bar, Eck and Burkhalter agreed that they

given day or night with customers jostling for a table with quirky

should open a similar dockside eatery/bar back home.

and colorful regulars. There is the elderly woman who orders French

The Stonington Harbor location was a no-brainer. But the build-

onion soup for her appetizer, followed by a steaming bowl of French

ing had its setbacks. The previous restaurant’s layout was poorly

onion soup for her entrée (yes, you read that correctly). Then there

designed, the kitchen was tiny, and the atmosphere was a bit stuffy.

is the outspoken yet endearing journalist Ben Davol, who said the

Dog Watch kitchen staff adapted to the small kitchen and does prep work in a neighboring outbuilding; the dining area was expand-

Dog Watch Café 194 Water Street Stonington, CT 06378 860.415.4510 www.dogwatchcafe.com

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Foodies of New England

good food and friendly vibe is what keeps him coming back.

The “Dawg,” as he puts it, “is family to me.”

Dog Watch Seared Tuna Ingredients: One (1) 8 oz. Saku tuna block Flour Cusabi dressing Panko crumbs mixed with black and white sesame seeds Sesame oil Directions: Dredge tuna in flour then in cusabi dressing.

Coat with panko and sesame seeds.

Sear in sesame oil for 1-2 minutes per side.

Make sure pan is coated with oil, and that oil is hot, but not smoking.

Serve tuna sliced, drizzled with more cusabi, and accompany with seaweed salad and warm oriental noodles.

Chef Jim Ward and Sou Chef Jaime

Summer 2017

23

Summer Breeze in the Berkshires:

Alta Wine Bar Written by Jodie Lynn Boduch Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

T

he rural jewel that is Lenox, Massachusetts was seemingly made for summer enjoyment.

Tucked into the Berkshires and lush with verdant postcard-perfect vistas, the village that’s home to Tanglewood and Canyon Ranch is also a foodie playground dotted with enticing venues. Alta Wine Bar, with its al fresco dining and casually upscale vibe, is one of the standouts.

24

Foodies of New England

Summer 2017

25

“Tucked into the Berkshires and lush with verdant postcard-perfect vistas, the village that’s home to Tanglewood and Canyon Ranch is also a foodie playground dotted with enticing venues.”

Founded in 2008 by Aurelien Telle and Stephane Ferioli (plus a silent partner), Alta was meant to be. After completing a degree in

perfect summer evening. Or, as Telle puts it, “a relaxed, honest, fun, and delicious meal.”

Food & Beverage Management in France, Telle worked at Wheatle-

Like many on-trend restaurants, Alta places a priority on simple

igh, a grand hotel in Stockbridge. There he met both his future wife

food with high-quality local ingredients. And by “local” they don’t

and Ferioli, who happened to be a graduate of the Lausanne Hos-

mean just two or three producers—they work with more than 20 lo-

pitality Management School in Switzerland and the restaurant man-

cal farmers and suppliers. Their objective, Telle explains, is to source

ager at Wheatleigh. Ferioli stayed for four years before going back to

as much as possible within a 50-mile radius. “In the summer, when

Paris to work at the Four Seasons Hotel George V, where he found

all the local farms are open, we get a dozen daily deliveries.”

himself missing the United States. He then came back to the Berk-

The menu reflects New England’s four seasons, with Executive

shires and reunited with Telle, who’d stayed in the area after getting

Chef Benjamin Daire creating his menu based on the best season-

married. “Opening a restaurant with my best friend Stephane was a

ally available products, such as Seared Natural Duck Breast (with

dream of mine,” says Telle. The rest is Alta history.

salty caramel sauce), Lamb Parmentier (with pine nuts, basil pesto

In a town with a historic look and feel, Alta is distinctly modern.

jus, and piperade – an onion, green pepper, and tomato dish from

Although it’s open year-round, summer is Alta’s busiest season. The

the Basque region of France), Grilled Atlantic Salmon (with pearled

town swells with summer-only locals, vacationers, and day trippers

barley, spinach, roasted tomatoes, and red bell pepper coulis), and

enjoying the area’s cultural delights. “Locals and tourists visit us pre-

summer favorite Quinoa Salad (read below).

theater, for a relaxing meal, or after a show,” says Telle. He adds

There’s also a distinct Mediterranean flair throughout the menu

that the quiet, semi-enclosed patio “provides a perfect European

and across seasons, with good reason: Ferioli is French and Italian,

atmosphere” and offers a beautiful sunset over Church Street. Add

and Telle, Chef Daire, Sous Chef Julien Ardouin, and Restaurant

to that the high priority they place on service, and you have the

Manager Raphael Gimbert all hail from different parts of France.

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Foodies of New England

Sou Chef Julien Ardouin

Seared Duck Breast with salty caramel sauce, mashed potatoes, and brussel sprouts

Pan Seared Wall Eye with a saffron cream sauce and black garlic puree and pea shoots This, Telle says, “brings a melting pot of fla-

philosophy on food. “We focus on beauti-

vor profiles.”

fully made, small production vineyards from

Of course, there’s another key experiential component to Alta—the wine bar.

all over the world.”

Mediterranean-inspired food, great ser-

With 24 wines by the glass and more than

vice, outdoor dining, wine, Lenox—five

300 labels available, Telle says they try to

things that leave this western Massachu-

provide guests with an array of choices. Al-

setts-based writer with one last question:

ta’s approach to wine goes hand-in-hand—

is it summer yet?

See recipe on page 28 Alta Wine Bar 34 Church Street Lenox, MA 01240 413.637.0003 www.altawinebar.com

or glass-in-glass?—with the restaurant’s

Summer 2017

27

Quinoa Salad with Mint Vinaigrette Ingredients for mint vinaigrette: 1 bunch of mint 1 teaspoon white vinegar 1 tablespoon honey 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil salt & pepper, to taste Directions: Combine the ingredients.

Ingredients for quinoa: 1 cup quinoa 1 carrot, cut into pieces 1/4 cup golden raisins 1/3 cup crumbled feta Toasted hazelnut Arugula Directions: Cook the quinoa in 12� of boiling, salted water, then chill in the fridge for a few hours.

When the quinoa is cold, combine with carrot and raisins.

Season with the mint dressing and crumbled feta. Top with the toasted hazelnut and serve over the arugula.

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Foodies of New England

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Foodies of New England

Organic Vegetable Carbonara with lemon poached haddock (see recipe page 35)

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Foodies of New England

Going Against the Grain — Josh Jordan &

Mill Pond Tavern Written by Briana Palma Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

J

osh Jordan is a chef who likes to play by his own rules.

But at his restaurant, Mill Pond Tavern, those rules have become a recipe for success.

“I love to go against the grain,” he says, emphatically.

Jordan opened Mill Pond Tavern on the edge of the Arlington Mill Reservoir in Salem, New Hampshire in September 2013. Following in the footsteps of his first restaurant, Crave Brasserie and Wine Bar in Amesbury, Massachusetts, he intended to bring a fine dining option to the town, but Salem didn’t bite, so Jordan adapted.

Summer 2017

31

“The chef’s special is a way for Jordan to use his creativity in the kitchen, test out new ideas, and get his customers to try different flavors.”

“We had a series of three menu changes in the first six months just so I could figure out what everybody was looking for,” he says.

“They really wanted, for lack of a better term, pub grub with a spin on it. So that’s what I gave them.”

Now more than three years old, Mill Pond Tavern has a loyal following that fills the restaurant most nights of the week. People come for the quality service and Jordan’s extensive menu of “creative pub grub with Asian fusion.” He offers 25 burgers, 25 pizzas, 35 sauces for his wings, and a small section of Korean-inspired plates as well as other classic pub dishes. Many are named after regular customers and all are crafted using high-quality ingredients, including organic and locally sourced options.

“Right now [chefs] are shortening menus,” Jordan explains, “but, where I was located in the woods, I knew I wasn’t going to really get people out here that often, so I went against the grain on the menu.”

And it has worked wonders. “[Customers] spend so much time reading my menu that they

Sake barbecue pork loin over baked cheddar polenta

need to come back three more times to try three burgers they read about,” Jordan says with a laugh.

While it’s hard to imagine not finding something to eat on the lengthy menu, which includes everything from salads and sandwiches to Korean barbecue, Jordan is determined to go the extra mile for clients who want something different. That’s why he offers a Chef’s Special, a one-of-a-kind dish he creates on the spot.

“The reason I do it is because no one does it,” he explains, adding that his goal is for every customer to leave happy. “I haven’t had a single [Chef’s Special] come back, so that’s something good.”

In fact, the Chef’s Special is a way for Jordan to use his creativity in the kitchen, test out new ideas, and get his customers to try different flavors. It’s how he introduced many of the Koreanfusion dishes that are now menu staples, including the popular Kulbi Fries—which he describes as a “Korean take on Canadian poutine”—pub fries topped with beef, red chili sauce, and goat cheese crumbles.

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Foodies of New England

Classic burger

The patron who first got the dish as a Chef’s Special refused to eat it, turned off by the goat cheese.

But Jordan’s wife, Tabitha, who manages the dining room, insisted.

“She’s very open and joking with the customers, and she said ‘You’re taking one bite for me,’” Jordan explains. “He listened to her and took the bite and honest to goodness, he comes in three times a week and he gets [the Kulbi Fries] twice a week.”

Despite the initial challenges with his fine dining concept, Jordan is happy that he’s been able to introduce new foods and flavors to the town’s dining scene, and he’s looking forward to continuing that at the Noshery Hotel & Public House, his new speakeasy-style restaurant set to open this summer on Salem’s busy Route 28.

“Three and a half years ago I did not see the need for it at all,” he says, referring to his fusionstyle cooking, which will take center stage at the new restaurant. “[Salem] is evolving quicker than I really expected it to.” No doubt thanks to a little help from Jordan’s creative cooking and unconventional approach.

See recipes on page 35 & 122

Mill Pond Tavern 82 E. Broadway Salem, NH 03079 603.824.6075

Owner Josh Jordan

Honey-glazed wings with garlic barbecue drizzle

Summer 2017

33

A little taste of Italy, here in New England!

Our authentic Neo-Neapolitan cuisine is made using only the freshest ingredients. Our pizza is baked in a brick oven and the high temperature produces a thin crust that is cooked to perfection.

135 Westboro Road • North Grafton, MA 01536 508.839.4900 • www.anziosbrickovenpizza.com

34

Foodies of New England

Organic Vegetable Carbonara with Lemon Poached Haddock Ingredients Vegetable Carbonara:

Ingredients Lemon Herb Poached Haddock:

(14-16 oz) spaghetti, rigatoni or other pasta of your choice

2 6-oz. haddock fillets

Four to five slices smoked bacon, cooked crispy then chopped.

1 tablespoon olive oil

1-2 cloves of garlic, peeled and slightly crushed, 1 half a red onion, finely minced. 1 half roasted red pepper julienned , 4 - 6 fresh mushrooms sliced.

3 cups chicken stock

Olive oil 2 medium eggs 250g (8 oz) grated pecorino romano cheese (or a combination of Parmesan and pecorino) Salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper. to taster 1 Tbs. coriander seed Directions 1. Cook the pasta in abundantly salted water until al dente.

2. While you are cooking your spaghetti, whisk the egg with grated pecorino cheese and lots of freshly ground pepper.

(For most palates, if you salt the pasta water sufficiently and given that pecorino and smoked bacon of your choice are already quite salty, you probably don’t need to season the sauce.)

3. Separately, in a skillet, sauté the garlic until it is just slightly brown. (If using onion, let it sauté very gently until it is perfectly soft and translucent, without browning.) Then add the mushrooms and continue over moderate heat, seasoning with a pinch of salt, until the shrooms cooked and just lightly browned. this should take 5 minutes or less. Now add Juilanne roasted red peppers.

4. Once the pasta is cooked al dente, drain them (but not too well) and pour them into the skillet over very low heat. Make sure there is a bit of pasta water clinging to the pasta; if not, add a ladleful from the pasta pot. Mix well and then add your egg mixture and mix again. Keep mixing until the eggs just being to thicken and form a creamy sauce that clings to the pasta. If you prefer (and these days I tend to like my carbonara this way) or if you are worried about contamination, you can continue a bit longer until the eggs actually set. In either case, remove from the heat as soon as it just bit less done than you want, as the eggs will continue to cook from the residual heat of the pasta.

1 shallot, minced 3 lemons, juiced and zested 8 fresh thyme sprigs 8 fresh parsley sprigs 8 fresh basil leaves 3 cloves garlic, smashed 1/2 teaspoon peppercorns Salt Directions 1. Heat oil in a medium, straight-sided pan over medium-low heat.

2. Add the shallot and cook, without letting it brown, until fragrant and translucent, about 3 to 5 minutes.

3. Stir in the stock, lemon juice and zest, herbs, garlic, and peppercorns. Bring the mixture to a simmer.

4. While the poaching liquid heats up, season both sides of the haddock fillets with salt.

5. Reduce heat to low and add the halibut to the pan. Cover and cook 8 to 10 minutes, or until the fish is opaque and flaky, but not dry.

6. Remove the fish from the pan.

7. Strain the poaching liquid, discarding the solids.

8. Serve fish on top of carbonara and garnish with fresh herbs.

And lemon wedge.

5. Serve immediately in warm pasta plates, with additional pecorino and ground pepper to taste.

Summer 2017

35

The Lazy New BBQ with

Chef Chris Simard Written by Julie Grady Thomas Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault Prop and food stylist Lizzy Williams

N

ine months.

That’s it, that’s how long Pork & Pickles has been open at the time of this interview, practically a newborn in restaurant terms. But forget about rolling or crawling or cruising, forget about walking. For this, his first restaurant, Chef/Owner Chris Simard has hit the ground running.

With 15 years of experience working in the front and back of house, his vast knowledge of the farm-to-table chain, plus a successful endeavor with his Lazy Farmer food truck and catering, Simard clearly has copious amounts of catering chops and service knowhow.

36

Foodies of New England

BBQ Beef Rib: Local grass fed big bone rubbed and smoked, with cole slaw, smoked maple baked beans and nitty gritty corn bread

Summer 2017

37

The Colchester, Vermont native attended Le Cordon Bleu in Ot-

grilled first then pickled with lemon and herbs) and the pickle-brined,

tawa, Canada, which is where his passion for agriculture began.

smoked Wings (these are really special; Simard makes so many

While he didn’t graduate—“I did the first section”—he did become

pickles, he uses the brine to marinate the wings for a few days, pulls

incredibly interested in where our food was actually coming from.

them out, throws on some dry rub, smokes them, and fries them to

So instead, he earned a degree in ecological agriculture (essentially

order; crisp not saucy).

organic farming) from the University of Vermont.

“We explore through our weekly specials: venison shanks, rabbit,

From there he worked on a farm in Hinesburg, Vermont, then

fish, shrimp and grits […] There are some rules out there and we

started his own organic farm in 2012, then expanded to create the

broke them,” he says, “but I don’t care because mine’s really good.”

aptly named Lazy Farmer in 2013. “The [farm] was too much work

Starting out, he assumed the restaurant would serve more or less

for me,” he admits. “The food truck was arguably the same amount

as a catering kitchen, maybe a casual restaurant, counter service-

of work, but a different kind of work.”

style, just to make ends meet. But before he knew it, the restaurant

Not a barbecue purist, Simard realizes that Vermont isn’t exactly on the BBQ belt. Although he did do his research in Austin, Texas.

“I gained about ten pounds in a week,” he says. A ten pounds well spent? “Definitely. I’ve always been interested in barbecue but

was taking off, doing even better than the catering.

Perhaps the reason Simard has been so successful is two-fold: his genuine interest in the origin of food, from the soil to the plate, and his genuine interest in people.

wasn’t confident enough to jump in; people feel really strongly about

“Catering is problem solving,” he says, “you’re cooking outside,

it, which is why a certain type of barbecue does well in one region

in different environments. The restaurant is a different experience;

and fails in another. I mean, how could I do [anything] in a place

it’s person to person, feeling like you’re part of the community. It’s

where barbecue doesn’t even have a demand?”

more fun there.”

What started out as a curse quickly became blessing—Vermont

So the next time you’re feeling voracious yet downright slothful,

not being on the BBQ map allows for something truly exhilarating:

take it from the Lazy Farmer himself—“Barbecue is a lazy thing to

play.

cook, all you need is need time”—and try out these gems: Smoked

Simard is rethinking what it is to experience barbecue, from the

Maple Baked Beans and his BBQ Beef Ribs.

vegan Collard Greens (check out the umami on these) and the smoky Texas Hot Links (a new venture, they’re made with ballpark sausage, lots of black pepper, garlic, paprika, and cayenne), to the Seasonal Pickles (peppers, beets, carrots, cauliflower, red onion, horseradish, classic cucumber, and the delightfully unique fennel—

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Foodies of New England

Pork & Pickles 34 Park Street Essex Junction, VT 05452 802.871.5295 www.porkandpicklesbbq.com

Chef Chris Simard

“People feel really strongly about barbecue, which is why a certain type of barbecue does well in one region and fails in another.�

Sou chef Andrew Wyslotsky

Summer 2017

39

BBQ Beef Ribs Ingredients: 1 rack of beef short ribs (10-12” rib bones, ribs 6-8) 1/4 cup salt 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons paprika 2 tablespoons black pepper 2 teaspoons garlic powder Directions Mix spices, salt, and sugar together.

On the bone-side of the ribs that has fat attached to it, remove membrane. Score the remaining layer that is tight to the meat and bone by lightly cutting the membrane diagonally to form a diamond pattern.

Trim any excessive amounts of fat off the meat side of the rib. Make sure you leave lots of fat on the ribs to cover the meat. Rub the dry spice mixture all over the rib.

Smoke the ribs bone-side down at up to 300°F for approximately 6-7 hours, or until a cake tester can easily poke through the meat.

The meat should pull away from the bone exposing some of the rib.

Remove from the smoker and cut with a sharp boning knife between the bones.

Serve with sliced sweet onions, pickles, pickled jalapeños, hot sauce, and BBQ sauce.

Smoked Maple Baked Beans Ingredients: 2 lbs great northern beans, soaked overnight 1/2 onion, small, diced 1/2 cup tomato paste 1/2 cup ketchup 1/2 cup molasses 1/2 cup smoked pork belly (or slab bacon), diced 1 1/2 cups maple syrup 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar 4 cups chicken stock Salt and pepper, to taste Directions Add all ingredients to a casserole pan or Dutch oven. Bake at 350°F for 10 hours, or until beans are soft to the bite, and liquid is reduced.

If there’s too much liquid, cook uncovered to reduce. If you have a smoker, put the beans in for more flavor.

40

Foodies of New England

Perfection on a River at

The Alvah Stone Written by Ed Londergan Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

I

n an old historic brick mill building, next to the beautiful Sawmill River, in the small rural town of Montague, Massachusetts, is a gem of the Pioneer Valley: The Alvah Stone Restaurant, where every bite is better than the last.

It might seem difficult to find, but when you do, you’ll be glad you did.

“The building started off as a grist mill, then became a machine mill—the stamps for Louisville Slugger bats were made here—but it stopped operating as a mill in the mid-1950’s,” says General Manager Ken Scriboni. “The mill was built in 1834 by Alvah Stone, hence the name.”

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Foodies of New England

The Alvah Stone is a comfortable place, where it’s easy to settle down. Old ceiling beams and relics of machinery give a charm to the place that, when combined with the unique location and the soft jazz and blues playing in the background, creates a relaxing and pleasant atmosphere.

The man responsible for this delightful place is Owner Howard Wein, an accomplished 20-year veteran of the hospitality and entertainment industries.

Wein has opened and operated large restaurants all around the country, including Boston, New York, San Francisco, Miami, Las Vegas, Philadelphia, and Phoenix.

“Sitting at a window table that overlooks the rushing river makes the food and drink taste especially good.”

Why Montague? The timing was right. Wein wanted to open a comfortable restaurant in Western Massachusetts, somewhere to offer exciting, local flavors that change with the seasons when a space opened up in the same building as his hospitality company’s office.

“We do have an interesting and creative menu,”

The Alvah Stone Burger: house made english muffin, onion marmalade, pickle, mayo, and cheddar

says Scriboni. “Our chefs—David Schreier and Jessica Pollard—are a husband and wife team.” Wein gives them free reign, total creative license. “They have earned my trust with their creativity. They do amazing things.” There’s also an on-staff pastry chef, but Wein tastes everything before it’s added to the menu, just to make sure it’s perfect.

Sitting at a window table that overlooks the rushing river makes the food and drink taste especially good. There’s a wonderful selection of regional craft beers – everything from IPA and lager to porter and stout – a large selection of wines, and inventive cocktails like the Ode to Alvah that contains Four Roses bourbon, burnt orange peel, luxardo cherry, and orange bitters.

The soft, warm pretzel is coated with poppy and caraway seeds and is accompanied by a pimento cheese sauce, pickled onion slices, red pepper continued on page 44

Warm SoftPretzel pimento cheese, pickles

Summer 2017

43

chunks, and crunchy sweet and sour pickles. The coconut and lime soup with chicken, peanuts, and cilantro has a bit of zip to it while the Okonomiyaki is a party for the taste buds.

Similar to a large scallion pancake, the Okonomiyaki is filled with pork belly, over-easy egg, and Kewpie mayonnaise, then topped with an interesting savory sauce. The burger is one of the very best you’ll find anywhere; served between a house-made English muffin, it’s topped with onion marmalade, mayo, cheddar cheese, a pickle and served with old baked potatoes and baked potato chunks with house seasoning.

The dessert menu has five items but the Salted Caramel Custard, served with real whipped cream and small chocolate cookies, and the Black Bottom Maple Pie, served with buttermilk ice cream, are very popular.

To make things even sweeter, the outside deck seats 40 for al fresco dining, weather permitting. Enjoying fine food and drink on a warm summer day, or even a crisp fall day with red and golden leaves lining the river, is certainly something to anticipate.

So if you are up for a drive, visit The Alvah Stone and savor the original, creative, and tasty offerings in a beautiful setting. You’ll be glad you did.

The Alvah Stone 440 Greenfield Road Montague, MA 01351 413.367.5345 www.thealvahstone.com Sous Chef Ryan Ghent and Assistant Manager Mike Marois

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Foodies of New England

Okonomiyaki with Charred Onion Dashi and Interesting Sauce Interesting Sauce Ingredients: 1 cup Heinz ketchup 1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce 1/4 cup oyster sauce 1/4 cup minced ginger 1/4 cup mirin 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon fish sauce Directions Put all the ingredients in a small sauce pan and heat gently.

Transfer to a squeeze bottle.

Charred Onion Dashi Ingredients: 1/4 cup dried shiitake mushroom 1 24”x8” sheet of kombu seaweed, torn into smaller pieces 1 cup Bonito flakes 4 sweet onions, quartered 4 quarts water A little canola oil Directions Add Bonito, kombu, and shiitake to a small stock pot, and cover with water. Bring this dashi mixture to barely a simmer and cook for 1 hour.

Meanwhile in a very hot cast iron pan or grill, add a little canola oil, and blacken onions on all sides and until a little soft.

Add the onions to simmering dashi mixture and let it continue to barely simmer for another 2 hours.

Strain stock through a cheesecloth over a fine mesh strainer and let cool.

Okonomiyaki Ingredients: 400 grams AP flour 400 grams charred onion dashi 400 grams whole egg 1 tablespoon minced ginger 2 tablespoons minced scallion 5 cups Napa cabbage, sliced 1/4” thick Braised pork belly (or bacon), thinly sliced A swirl of canola oil

Directions Whip the eggs with a fork, and add in the cooled dashi to combine.

Add the flour and whisk to combine. Add the ginger and scallion.

Finally, fold the cabbage in with a rubber spatula.

2. Place an 8” nonstick pan on medium heat and add a swirl of canola oil. When the oil is shimmering, drop 2 large spoons of batter into the pan. Gently press down.

3. Add a few thin slices of braised pork belly (or bacon) and cook the pancake until light brown and caramelized on the bottom. Then, carefully flip it to finish the other side. Give it a gentle press to make sure there’s no liquid coming out.

3. To serve, add a few flakes of sea salt on both sides, the Interesting Sauce, Kewpie mayo (or mayo of your choice), pickled ginger, and sliced scallions.

Summer 2017

45

46

Foodies of New England

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Healthy Summer Nights

Written by Craig Lindberg Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Everyone LOVES summer.

Grills and fire pits blaze forth gloriously, charring whatever we choose to place upon their hallowed iron. And let’s not forget the salads, desserts, and cocktails whose aromas can permeate the thickest, most humid of nights.

Those of us who exercise regularly or have simply made the decision to eat healthy can find summer eating challenging. We have been convinced that healthy eating is tasteless salads, bland brown rice, and dry chicken; well I’m here to tell you that healthy eating does not have to be any of those things (summer or otherwise).

48

Foodies of New England

Chef Al Maykel

Healthy eating means eating well: minimizing but not eliminating fats and sugars, and eating complex carbohydrates such as farro, sweet potato, and wild grains or lean protein in the form of chicken and fish.

And of course, there are the vegetables and fresh spices whose vibrant colors and enticing scents can add pop to any midsummer night’s meal.

Chef Albert E. Maykel III of Bootleggers in Worcester, Massachusetts knows healthy eating can be delicious as well as effective; he has begun a journey of his own, losing a significant amount of weight by eating well.

“I have lost 17lbs so far simply by eliminating garbage and eating mostly fresh vegetables and fruit with some protein mixed in,” says Maykel. “A huge part of my diet consists of salads for dinner every night.

Nothing I am eating is fat-free, low-sodium, carb-free, or no-sugar--I’m just making smarter choices. I believe we do need good fats and a balance of the food groups in our diet.” He relies on the amazing selections of Worcester’s own mecca for organic foods, Living Earth, to develop the recipes that have contributed to his results.

Remember foodies and would-be dieters, food is a simple pleasure meant to be enjoyed by all five senses. Simply add some common sense and enjoy!

All of these salad recipes are made with organic ingredients purchased from the Living Earth at 232 Chandler Street in Worcester, MA.

Chicken Fattoulli Fine chopped romaine, tomatoes, sweet onion, cucumber, parsley, fresh mint, green onion, bulgur, feta cheese, garlic pita chips, lemon juice, olive oil, Middle Eastern spices Ingredients: 8 oz diced grilled, plain baked or poached chicken breast 1 head baby romaine fine chopped 3/4 cup chopped parsley 1/2 cup diced tomatoes 1/2 cup diced sweet onion 1 cup diced cucumber 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint 1/4 cup chopped green onion (scallion) 3/4 cup cooked bulgur 1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese

1/3 cup crushed garlic pita chips 3-4 tablespoons of dressing 1/4 tablespoon sea salt Dressing Recipe: 1 cup lemon juice 1 cups olive oil 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 1/4 teaspoon onion powder 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder 1/4 teaspoon allspice 1/4 tablespoon sea salt

continued on page 50

Summer 2017

49

Tropical Turkey Crunch Fine chopped romaine, couscous, bell peppers, green onion, celery, mixed nuts, sun dried fruits (apricots, peaches, pears, nectarines, raisins, and cranberries), with sweet red wine vinaigrette Ingredients: 8oz diced deli turkey sandwich meat 1 head baby romaine small diced 1 cup cooked small grain couscous 1/2 cup diced sundried fruit medley (apricots, peaches, pears, nectarines, raisins, cranberries) 1/2 cup roasted mixed nuts (I prefer salted) 1/4 cup diced bell peppers 1/4 cup diced green onion (scallion) 1/4 cup diced celery 3-4 Tablespoons of dressing Dressing Recipe: 1 1/3 cup safflower oil 1/4 cup Dijon mustard 1 cup brown rice syrup 1 cup red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 1 teaspoon black pepper 1/2 tablespoon sea salt

Mediterranean Salmon Fine chopped romaine, pitted Kalamata olives, feta cheese, sweet onion, cucumber, bell peppers, celery, heirloom tomatoes, sunflower sprouts, hot banana peppers, balsamic vinaigrette Ingredients: 8 oz of grilled, poached or plain baked Salmon (wild preferred) 1 head baby romaine small diced 8 each pitted Kalamata olives 1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese 1/4 cup diced Vidalia onion 1/4 cup diced cucumber 1/4 cup diced bell peppers 1/4 cup diced celery 1/4 cup diced or grape seed heirloom tomatoes 2 tablespoons hot banana pepper rings 1/2 cup sunflower sprouts 2-3 tablespoons dressing Dressing Recipe: 1 cup red wine vinegar 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar 2 cups olive oil 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 1/4 tablespoon dried oregano 1/4 tablespoon onion powder 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder 1/2 teaspoon thyme 1/2 tablespoon dried basil 1/2 tablespoon sea salt 1 teaspoon sugar 1/2 tablespoon sea salt

50

Foodies of New England

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“History of...�

Written by Joan Arnold Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Joan is inspired by the people who love to create and enjoy good food.

Trained in law, she is a writer by avocation interested in the stories of people and the food they make.

Joan explores the craftsmanship, history and emerging cultures that make up the New England food scene.

52

Foodies of New England

Couscous

For hundred of years, in the mountains of the Maghrib – present-day Morocco, Tunisia, Algeria, and Libya – women have come together to make couscous.

They roll semolina, water, and salt, they sift and steam the grains, and then they spread the couscous to dry. It is a social event, rather like an American quilting bee, with an exchange of family news and perhaps a bit of gossip. Traditionally, the youngest woman in the group prepares m’semmen, a type of small pancake with honey served with coffee and tea. At the end of the day, each household has replenished its store of the staple food of North African life.

Food historians differ on the origins of couscous. Some point to the reign of the first Berber King of Numidia (238-149 BCE) – corresponding to present day Algeria - based on tomb discoveries. Some suggest it was not until the Arab conquest of North Africa (632-732 CE) and the introduction of durum wheat. Whatever the origin, couscous has been deeply ingrained in both the cuisine and the religious and cultural life of Northern Africa for over 1000 years. continued on page 54

Summer 2017

53

The word couscous refers not only to a product but also to a dish. It is steamed, not boiled, in a special pot now known as a couscousier; a variety of preparations are found in different regions and for different occasions. It is credited with helping mothers regain strength after childbirth and served ceremonially in honor of a boy’s circumcision. Couscous enhanced with succulent lamb’s tail may ensure a husband’s continuing fidelity. Muslim pilgrims who have completed the Hajj may be welcomed home with a couscous dish containing spices, almonds, and eggs symbolizing the spiritual renewal the pilgrim enjoys. But couscous is also an integral part of daily meals. It may be steamed over a stew of lamb or chicken, sweetened with raisins and sugar, or part of a spicy stew of chickpeas and fava beans. Whether for an ordinary family supper or a celebratory and lavish wedding, couscous represents a heritage and connection for all North Africans.

Sources Morse, Kitty. (1998 November/December). Couscous: Past and Present. Saudi Aramco World. Volume 49, Number 6 Noakes, Greg and Noakes, Laidia Chouat. (1998 November/December). Couscous: The Measure of the Maghrib. Saudi Aramco World Volume 49, Number 6 Wolfert, Paula. (1998). Mediterranean Grains and Greens. New York, New York: HarperCollins

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Foodies of New England

Sturbridge Loves Baba!

Experience the best of both world’s Chaun Shabu Japanese Hot Pot Experience and Baba Sushi!

Baba Sushi Sturbridge 453A Main Street Sturbridge, MA 01518 774.304.1068 www.babasushi.com

Lock (50) Down!

Written by David G. Kmetz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

I

n keeping stride with the explosion of fine food stops and revitalization of the Canal District around Water, Green, and Harding Streets in downtown Worcester, we offer Lock 50, set on Water Street right over the path of the former Blackstone Canal (1828-1847).

There were 49 locks from tidewater in Providence to the main basin in Worcester, so this venue marks the 50th—and modern “stop”—along this hidden historic pathway, not far from the erstwhile location of lock #49 .

Tim Russo, Ed Russo, and Tom Studer brought together culinary skills, business savvy, and a lot of sweat equity to launch Lock 50 in Spring 2016. Beside the family trio’s personal and somewhat eclectic (and yes, delicious) fare, the building they found also has a long local history. Known as the Dental Arts Building, it was the original site of Norton Company.

56

Foodies of New England

Later, the building housed Puritan Bottling Company and, after prohibition, became Consolidated Beverage… so there is a bit of culinary and hospitality legacy on which to build here.

The $1M renovation involved gutting the first and second floors, removing the façade, and replacing it with what would have been there a century ago. The space includes a 100-seat restaurant on the street level with a 50-seat outside patio and apartments above. The restaurant aims to bring back the heart and vitality of the burgeoning Canal District with a creative landmark featuring a unique storefront design, a beautiful mural, and an upscale modern restaurant.

“We feel that we have created a nice balance between comfortable and creative dishes.”

This writer visited in late February 2017 a quiet Tuesday afternoon, with only a few tables filled. The setting is clean, minimal execution: tear drop amber lights, exposed brick, dark woods in matte finish, and a select level of décor. A wide iron chandelier overhead and myriad MR-50 spotlights from racks above highlight the art and the floral arrangements. Running along the back wall

and Armsby Abbey as well as several stints

of the space is a long aqua fabric banquet

at restaurants in Providence and Nantucket.

seating area with cushions and a broad view

Creative crepes, true barista coffees,

overlooking the expanse of windows out

sandwiches, charcuterie boards, and a

front.

host of lovingly time-intensive dishes (e.g.,

Family is everywhere at Lock 50. Owner

steamed littleneck clams infused with

Ed Russo’s vision couldn’t be complete

preserved lemon, fried garlic, and parsley)

without his son Sean and nephew Tim

comprise the menu.

to guide the restaurant. Chef Tim Russo,

Though food is paramount, they also

a Worcester Vocational School grad and

make a point to highlight cocktail service

2015’s Worcester’s Best Chef winner, runs

from noon time on. For those with a parched

the kitchen, offering a menu of contempo-

throat or just eager wet a whistle, Chef Tim

rary American style dishes with a Mediter-

Russo notes a cocktail list that changes

ranean influence. Tim’s resume is an impres-

seasonally and a wine list they aim to keep

sive one. Besides the well-earned kudos

fresh; both are designed to be approach-

from WBC, he has done stages at Volturno

able for a variety of palates continued on page 58

Owner Ed Russo

Summer 2017

57

“Our biggest goal is to be creative and

best quality food Worcester has available.”

adventurous with our beverage program,”

They’ve also recently introduced five- and

says Beverage Director Tom Studer, “while

seven-course Chef’s Tasting Menus. Things

being simple enough to not be confusing or

get a little more exploratory here, giving Rus-

overwhelming.”

so full control over what your courses are;

When asked about the perceptions and

it’s an experience unmatched in Worcester

changes since they first opened, Chef Tim

that will give customers an opportunity to try

replies, “The shareable plates concept has

something exceptional.

been well received; we feel that we have

For the cultural cauldron of arts, galleries,

created a nice balance between comfort-

shops, music, and great eats, the Canal Dis-

able and creative dishes. One of the big mis-

trict and Lock 50 should be on any regional

conceptions we face is that small plates are

fan’s bucket list for the coming season.

all obscure, unapproachable items when in fact it is quite the opposite.” The idea, he explains, is simply to explore a range of food.

“We plan to continue to be adventurous, but keep our roots planted with offering the

Lock 50 50 Water Street Worcester, MA 01604 508.379.3400 www.lock50.com Tom Studer

Head Chef Tim Russo

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Foodies of New England

Octopus Salad with Grilled Potatoes and Citrus Octopus is one ingredient no one should fear cooking. As long as you cook it long enough, it will be tender and delicious.This preparation makes for a tasty lunch on a hot summer afternoon or as a side at dinnertime. If possible, try to find octopus caught in the Mediterranean opposed to the Pacific Southwest. I find it has a much cleaner taste. Serves 4-6.

Ingredients: 1 whole 6-8 lbs octopus (rinsed) 8-12 fingerling potatoes (cut in 1/2) 1 bulb fresh fennel (sliced thin) 3 oranges (segmented) 2 each lemons (segmented) 1/2 cup pitted olives (halved) 1/2 cup pickled chili peppers (chopped) 1/2 cup fennel fronds 2 tablespoons fresh parsley (rough cut) 1/4 cup EVOO Directions Place octopus in a medium stock pot and cover with cold water; gently simmer until the tentacles separate from the body easily (approximately 2 1/2 -3 hours), then chill.

Boil potatoes in salted water until just cooked through. Remove from water and allow to air cool. Oil and season potatoes; mark on the grill (this is not necessary but adds a nice flavor).

Toss chilled octopus with potatoes, olives, chilies, fennel, EVOO, citrus, salt, and pepper. Plate on a chilled plate and top with fennel fronds and parsley to garnish. If you are preparing this ahead, I would suggest re-tossing with some fresh lemon juice and EVOO just before serving. Enjoy!

Maltagliati “Badly Cut Pasta” with Asparagus & Pancetta This pasta dish is very simple and easy to prepare. Many ingredients in the recipe can be substituted to your personal taste.

Because of its simplicity, this dish should be prepared with only the freshest quality ingredients available. Serves 4-6.

Ingredients: 1.5 lbs fresh pasta sheets (cut irregularly) 1 cup asparagus (sliced on the bias) 2 tablespoons preserved lemon (julienne) 2 tablespoons brine from preserved lemons 4 slices thick cut pancetta (cooked) 3 tablespoons fresh parsley (chiffonade) 1/2 stick butter (cubed) cheese for shaving (I like Pecorino Toscano) whole eggs for poaching reserved pasta water (as needed) Directions In a large sauté pan, heat 1/4 stick of butter and lightly sweat the asparagus. Add preserved lemon and brine; you can substitute lemon zest and juice. Boil pasta in salted water until al dente, then add to sauté pan. Add remaining butter and a touch of pasta water. Keep tossing until the butter and water emulsify, adding more water if it’s too dry.

Once the pasta is coated and creamy, add chopped parsley and pancetta. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with your favorite cheese on top and a poached egg.

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Gluten Free

Get Spiralizing

O

ne of my most favorite kitchen toys is my spiralizer. I was lucky enough to pick it up at a thrift store, new in-the-box.

Given the spiralizer craze, you can pretty much find them everywhere. There are countertop versions and handheld versions. I’ve tried both and much prefer the countertop version. If you’re ready to take the spiralizer plunge, you’ll easily

Written by Ellen Allard Gluten Free Diva www.glutenfreediva.com Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Ellen Allard, the Gluten Free Diva, is an over-the-moon enthusiastically hip and motivational Certified Holistic Health Coach who helps clients banish the bloat and embrace gluten free lifestyle changes that enable them to fall madly in love with the food that unequivocally loves them back. A graduate of the Institute for Integrative Nutrition, Ellen is a recipe developer, food writer, food photographer and videographer (www.glutenfreediva. com/blog/.) She passionately promotes optimal health through informed food choices and whole plant-based foods. She loves all things food and health and is happy to talk to you about the same!

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Foodies of New England

find them on amazon.com or in Bed Bath & Beyond. Just make sure to read reviews.

And when you begin using one, be careful as the blade can be very sharp.

Once you get your hands on a spiralizer, you’ll be enchanted by the magic it creates out of carrots, zucchini, and sweet potato. One of my favorite ways to use spiralized carrots and cucumber is in my Pad Thai with Spiralized Rainbow Carrots & Cucumber recipe. This is my proverbial summer (though truth be told, I make it all year round) go-to salad. It’s great on its own, and I’ve also added chickpeas or grilled chicken to it. If you want a more substantial dressing, you can substitute a peanut butter or almond butter dressing.

It isn’t a recipe that lasts long, which explains why you want to add the dressing just before serving. If you dress it too much before serving or leave it in the refrigerator overnight, the noodles do not fare well. Enjoy!

Pad Thai with Spiralized Rainbow Carrots & Cucumber Ingredients: 14 oz box rice noodles* 2 - 3 (depending on size) rainbow carrots* 1 English cucumber 2 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped 1 cup fresh cilantro, chopped 1/2 cup seasoned rice vinegar 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 teaspoon sea salt 1/4 teaspoon red chili flakes Directions: Cook noodles according to directions on the box. Drain and cool. Spiralize the carrots and cucumber. Mix the noodles, carrots, cucumber, mint, and cilantro. Set aside.

Whisk the rice vinegar, sugar, salt, and chili flakes. Just before serving, add to noodles just enough to moisten.

NOTE: I like Thai Kitchen brand of rice noodles. They’re gluten free and always work well in this recipe. Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods carry rainbow carrots.

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‘Tis the Season For The Foundry’s executive chef, the nature of a true New England meal changes throughout the year.

Written by Eric J. Francis Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

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Foodies of New England

I

n the quiet hour between lunch and dinner service, Executive Chef Matthew Provencher sits down at a long table in a private dining area off the wine room of The Foundry restaurant in Manchester.

He mischievously asks his general manager, Nate Carney, “Are you behind?”

“There’s no chance of me catching up today,” Carney replies with a wry smile.

“We’re always behind,” Provencher says with a knowing grin. continued on page 64

Local Cheese and Charcuterie Board

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It’s an easy exchange between two guys who grew up locally – Derry and Manchester, respectively – and spend their days turning local ingredients into inspired dishes inside the city’s historic mill. It’s not by accident The Foundry has become New England’s largest farm-to-table restaurant.

“For me,” says Provencher, “it’s supporting the local people, the local farms. And it just tastes better. A tomato from 20 miles away isn’t bred to travel across the country;, it’s bred to taste good, to be exactly what it should be.”

To serve that philosophy, the Foundry does business with 35 farms and more than a dozen breweries across New England. In a given week, they’re typically buying from 10 or 12 of those farms… although sometimes they don’t know exactly what they’re buying.

“We do all of our ordering on an iPad,” says Provencher. “Some of our purveyors have a button that says five or ten pounds of ‘something.’ And they just show up with it.”

One day that might mean sea urchin, another day John Dory, or maybe arctic char or ocean perch.

“That’s what a lot of it is – you adapt to what comes in the door,” Provencher says of cooking locally sourced foods. “Sometimes it’s a dud, just not exciting. But you say okay, what can we do with it?”

Other times, those surprise ingredients are definitely not duds.

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Foodies of New England

Grilled Asparagus Salad

“We have one guy who raises incredible hogs – he doesn’t feed them, they forage – and he’ll call up randomly and say, ‘We just slaughtered a hog, do you want some?’” says Provencher. “We’ll do specials with it: Use the chops and belly and loins now, the legs to make ham, and look and see what we can cure and push off a couple of weeks.”

Carney turns to Provencher with a grin. “We do have to tell them about collecting the heads,” he says, then adds as an aside, “He likes to make head cheese.”

Provencher laughs. “You go into the freezer sometimes and there’s a pig head looking at you.”

“Are you familiar with head cheese? It’s actually quite good,” says Carney.

“But we learned calling it head cheese doesn’t sell,” Provencher says. “So we’ll bread it and pan sear it and call it crispy pork, and then it just flies out the door.” continued on page 66

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Pan seared foie gras

General Manager Nate Carney and Executive Chef Matthew Provencher It should come as no surprise that

In fact, for Provencher a true New Eng-

Provencher, as they say, likes to use every

land meal cannot be captured with a single

part of the pig except the squeal. After all,

dish, because that meal will always be com-

his left forearm bears a tattoo of a cleaver

posed of foods of the season.

with a hog emblazoned upon the blade.

“It’s more what time of year than what in-

Furthermore, it’s part and parcel of the farm-

gredient,” he says. “If you came up to us in

to-table philosophy that inspires his recipes:

August, we’d say you’ve got to eat some

Use whatever is available locally, when it is in

corn. From Thanksgiving through Christ-

season, and use every part of it.

mas, we do pork pie. If you’re here during

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Foodies of New England

Grilled Beef Tenderloin with crispy potato cake, cream kale, chocolate port demi glaze strawberry season, you get inundated for three weeks with strawberries.

“We hit that season,” Provencher says, “and everybody’s ready for it.”

The Foundry 50 Commercial Street Manchester, NH 03101 603.836.1925 www.foundrynh.com

Grilled Asparagus Salad Ingredients Champagne Reduction: 1 gallon champagne vinegar 3 cups honey 2 bay leaves 1/4 cup black peppercorns Directions: Place all ingredients in a stainless steel pot and reduce to syrup consistency. Strain through a fine mesh and place in a nonreactive container.

Ingredients Pickled Red Onions: 5 large red onions 1/2 gallon red wine vinegar 3 cups sugar 5 bay leaves 1/4 cup black peppercorns 1/4 cup coriander seeds Directions: Place vinegar, sugar, bay leaves, peppercorns, and coriander seeds in a stainless steel pot and bring to a boil. Let simmer for 30 minutes.

Once ingredients are in the pot, clean and slice the red onions 1/4 inch thick and place in a nonreactive container. After the 30 minutes, strain the pickling liquid and pour hot over the onions. Let them sit uncovered until cooled, then cover and refrigerate.

Ingredients Asparagus: 1 bunch large asparagus salt water Directions: In a large pot bring heavily salted water to a boil. It should taste like the ocean when it boils. Break the ends off the asparagus. Do not cut them. Place asparagus into ice water and then blanch in the boiling water in small batches. You should not lose the boil while blanching.

Once the asparagus is cooked, place in ice water until cold.

Plating: Pre-heat gill to very hot. Slice mozzarella to 1/2 inch, thick brush with oil/salt/pepper and grill until just soft. Toss asparagus in oil and salt; grill until hot. Place watercress on a plate. Top with grilled mozzarella and asparagus, place pickled onions around plate, and drizzle with champagne syrup.

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Gardens by Renee

Written by Renee Bolivar Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Renee is a professional landscaper who has turned her passion for growing clean fruits, veggies, herbs and edible flowers into a successful and “growing” business.

Renee’s mission is to connect people to their food, to nature and to one another. Through her business, Renee teaches people how to grow their own food through one on one consulting, hands-on workshops, design, build, and maintenance of edible landscapes, writing and Garden2Glass™ events.

For more growing tips and garden love, check out Gardens by Renee on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest and Instagram @Gardensbyrenee

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Foodies of New England

From the Garden to the Glass

Ahhhh, summer. You truly are my favorite season, in the garden and everywhere else.

I love how my world is surrounded and swaddled in a blanket of Pantone’s 2017 color of the year, greenery.

I love how my garden becomes a hideaway with climbing vines, cascading flowers, towering sunflowers, and walls of corn. I love the sweet smell of the earth and petrichor after a good afternoon rain.

Mostly, because I am a food glutton, I love the abundance of fresh and clean fruits, veggies, herbs, and edible flowers that come from my garden and find their way to our tables via spoon, fork, plate, or glass.

Summer days were made for swaying in a hammock, under the shade of an old maple or great oak, while sipping sun-brewed tea or homemade lemonade with fresh mint or lemon verbena.

Summer nights were made for dining al fresco and enjoying tasty libations in and from the garden. continued on page 70

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Herbs are such an underutilized edible.

It’s a bit of a bummer because they really are easy to grow. Herbs don’t take up a lot of space, like to mingle, and are pretty low maintenance. A lot of herbs feed the bees and pollinators we love. At the same time, many herbs are known to be a natural mosquito repellent.

I’m always trying to come up with fun ways to inspire people to grow herbs. One way I do this is by showing people how to incorporate herbs into everything we eat and, especially on these perfect summer days, everything we drink. Its one of the reasons why I started doing Garden2Glass™ events this past winter.

The Garden2Glass™ experience teaches people how to use the herbs that we grow on our patios or in our gardens to make herb-infused simple syrup (recipe below) made with local honey, sugars, or natural sweeteners for creating simple and delicious cocktails/mock-tails or flavored teas.

Whether you like your drinks light and refreshing, fruity and sweet, or bold and fullflavored, adding fresh herbs to the mix enhances the flavor, engages the senses, and brings the garden to the glass.

Get

creative,

have

fun,

and

keep

growing!

Herb-Infused Simple Syrup Ingredients: 1 cup sugar, honey, agave, or other nature sweetener 1 cup water 1 cup fresh herbs like mint, rosemary, thyme, or anise Directions: Heat sweetener and water until everything dissolves. Add fresh herbs and let steep until mix cools. Strain and serve.

You can play with this recipe. Some bartenders like to use a 2:1 ratio to make a “rich” syrup. I’ve also used a mix of herbs.

Be creative.

More information about hiring Gardens by Renee for a unique Garden2Glass™ experience can be found at www.gardensbyrenee.com

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Foodies of New England

“Adding fresh herbs to the mix enhances the flavor, engages the senses, and brings the garden to the glass.�

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The Road to

Abundance Family Farm Written by Sarah Connell Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

W

hitney and Luke DeCiccio are not your typical farmers.

Sitting around the kitchen table of their home, Whitney is quick to say, “I’m from Chesapeake, Virginia where my mom was a Jazzercise instructor and a nurse, and my dad worked in the prison system.” Whitney has always been a cultivator of relationships, so it came as no surprise when she found the same solace in cultivating plants.

Her husband, Luke, on the other hand, has spent his entire life around agriculture. Growing up on a tree farm taught Luke the ins and outs of horticulture, but it couldn’t alone prepare him for the challenges of running his own small market garden and Community Supported Agriculture operation.

Before conceiving the idea of Abundance Family Farm, Luke traveled to work on farms in Colorado, California, Hawaii, and Washington. Likewise, Whitney’s journey led to Hawaii where she WWOOFed, a popular movement that links volunteers to organic farms. When asked if Hawaii was where the two of them finally crossed paths, Whitney replies, “No, we met on a clown trip in Peru. But, that’s another story…”

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Foodies of New England

When pressed for more answers, the couple quickly directs the conversation back to farming. “A lot of the things we wanted to see back home were already happening on the west coast. Trends in America often work that way, traveling from left to right,” Luke says. The couple decided to return to Luke’s roots to help develop a better system for the underserved region of central Massachusetts.

Abundance Family Farm presently consists of 1.5 to 2 acres of cultivated land in Charlton, Massachusetts.

The plots are spread out around the property, including a greenhouse. Luke splits his time between serving as a nurseryman at Bigelow Nurseries where he grew up and working as a farmer at his new family business.

Efforts to make farming more environmentally friendly have led to a number of innovations in small farming, but the DeCiccios find that growing popularity of small farms is not fostering a great deal of competition. On the contrary, the increase of young farmers has resulted in a sense of community. Small farms are now economically viable thanks to developments like solar net fencing, two-wheel tractors, and hoop houses. As the structure of farms continues to evolve, it becomes easier for young farmers to get in the game. Farmers are no longer tied to a physical place the way they once were.

Sitting with a baby in one arm and a toddler on his lap, Luke and Whitney DeCiccio with son Isaiah and baby Lillia

Luke explains, “Small farmers quickly learn that this is a lifestyle, but if you don’t also think of it as a business, it won’t last long.”

Most of Abundance Family Farm’s marketing is accomplished through direct relationships built at farmers markets. “Someday we’ll offer an online marketplace, but for now, the best place to find us is at the Canal District Farmers Market in Worcester,” Whitney says.

Whitney enjoys teaching children about gardens and local produce. Right now she is working with Mighty Oaks Montessori School in Auburn. Looking to the future, Luke adds, “Our farm is still brand new, but our ultimate goal is to make good food available and affordable. We’d like to bring a teaching model to the farm once we’ve dialed in. This is only our third season, but we hope to grow confident, continue to learn, and eventually pass that along to aspiring farmers.”

When asked about where they would be without farming, Whitney says, “It turns out, there’s nothing else I ever wanted to do.” Luke, on the other hand, shares that he would likely make ends meet on the merits of his DJing skills. In the presence of the DeCiccios, nothing feels outside the realm of possibility.

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Foodies of New England

“Small farms are now economically viable thanks to developments like solar net fencing, two-wheel tractors, and hoop houses.�

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Written by Chef Denny Corriveau Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Some Call It Lazy, I Call It Comfort Wild Rabbit Poutine with Tea Gravy Food is the primitive form of comfort.

We have all experienced days where we don’t want anything complicated. Days where we just crave something in the way of comfort food, be it a lazy weekend or a drawn-out weeknight when we don’t have it in us to create a complex dish. Heck, even my dog enjoys gnawing on a roasted bone every now and then.

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Foodies of New England

There are so many approaches to cooking—and enjoying—food. Have you ever noticed that when you travel to the coast and breathe in the salty sea air, you’re suddenly in the mood for seafood? Or, on a damp, raw day, you long for something that brings a sense of coziness and warmth, like a steaming bowl of soup and hot crusty bread right from oven? Dipping that bread into the hot broth is akin to Linus grasping for his blanket.

Some may call this lazy, but I call it finding comfort in food.

Whether I’m cooking at home or dining out, I must admit, I’m constantly seeking comfort in my food.

Sometimes I get asked how my love for wild game developed – it all started with childhood trips to our family camp in Quebec, where I had my taste of wild game. Besides enjoying the tremendous views from our old family farmstead, we would often cook over our Glenwood-style woodstove.

Growing up in a very humble FrenchCanadian home, we typically cooked simple foods that weren’t necessarily complex in nature, but deeply satisfying in taste. We made the most out of what we had and appreciated even the humblest of ingredients – I can still recall enjoying baked beans that were cooked on that woodstove.

Occasionally we’d drive into Sherbrooke to visit Pépère and Mémère Simard. Pépère was a man who understood how to enjoy food derived from the land. He’d take us to

when I travel to the Great White North: one,

watch him catch fresh trout from the clear

tune my truck radio in to the French-Canadi-

flowing streams, and on a good year, he’d

an stations so I can enjoy hearing the dialect

harvest approximately 100 wild rabbits for

of my heritage; and two, make sure I find

the freezer. This meant that I’d be eating

a place to enjoy traditional poutine. It helps

some of the most delicious and memorable

me reminisce about the little things that mat-

wild rabbit dinners that – to this day – I’ve

ter most to me as it ties my love for my fa-

ever experienced. Mémère’s braised rabbit

ther and my family to our ancestral foods,

in gravy is etched in my memory, served with

which are part of the fiber of my life.

simple mashed potatoes and fresh green

When I discovered this issue’s theme,

salad, the lettuce pulled from their garden,

“What Chefs Cook on a Lazy Night,” I in-

and cucumbers tossed in a yogurt dressing.

stantly knew what I what to do. It’s with that

As part of my French-Canadian food heri-

thought that I’d like to honor my dad and my

tage, I grew up with a full appreciation for

step-mom, along with Pépère and Mémère

many Canuck staples. My dad and I still

Simard, by featuring one of my recipes for

share a common affection for one: poutine.

Wild Rabbit Poutine. Much foodie love to

I’ve always made a point to do two things

Denny Corriveau is Award-Winning Master Game Chef and the Founder of the Free Range Culinary Institute, the only national wild game cooking school in the country. As a trendsetter in the field of wild game culinary arts, and Wild Game Evangelist, Denny has evolved over the past 25+ years as a nationally-noted authority on “best practices” regarding the culinary side of wild game.

You can learn more about Denny @ www.wildcheff.com.

See recipe on page 82

you and bon appétit!

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Wild Rabbit Poutine with Tea Gravy Ingredients: 1 wild rabbit, cut into 6 pieces (farm-raised can be substituted) WildCheff Tuscan Blend seasoning 1 medium sweet onion, peeled and quartered 6 cups water 4 Earl Grey tea bags 2 lemons, juiced 1 orange, juiced 1/3 cup quality molasses 1 1/2 tablespoons local honey 3 tablespoons sunflower oil WildCheff Sagemary Sea Salt, to taste WildCheff Chef’s Grind Pepper, to taste 1 bag Alexia Rosemary French Fries 5-8 ounces cheddar cheese curds 2-3 tablespoons equal parts butter and unbleached flour Italian leaf parsley, roughly chopped for garnish Directions 1. In a saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Add tea bags and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and steep for 3-5 minutes until the brew is strong and dark.

2. Remove tea bags and add lemon juice, orange juice, molasses, and honey, whisking until dissolved. Set aside.

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3. Lightly coat the rabbit pieces with some of the sunflower oil, followed by desired amount of WC Sagemary Sea Salt and WC Tuscan seasoning.

4. Add 2 tablespoons of the sunflower oil into a large Dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat. Once the it’s hot, sear the seasoned rabbit in the Dutch oven – be sure not to overcrowd the pan, cook in batches if necessary. Once the rabbit is golden brown, turn them over and sear the other side.

5. After the second side is seared, turn the meat over again, add the onion and pour the tea mixture over the top of the meat. Bring to a boil, and then reduce to a simmer. Cook for 60-90 minutes, until the meat has reached a consistency where it’s tender enough to be shredded.

6. Remove the rabbit and place onto a holding plate. When cooled, shred the meat and strain any remaining braising liquid into a bowl.

7. Place the Dutch oven back on the stove, melt the butter and then whisk in the flour to make a roux.

8. Over a medium-high heat, slowly add the strained stock to the pot and whisk until it thickens to a gravy.

9. Place the fries on a sheet pan and place into a hot 425°F oven and cook until crisp (or follow the cooking instructions on the fries of your choice). Remove them from the oven and place onto serving plates. Top with cheese curds and shredded rabbit meat, then ladle the gravy over everything. Sprinkle parsley on top. *All WildCheff products available at WildCheff.com

at Tantasqua The Cornerstone CafĂŠ is the student run restaurant at Tantasqua Regional High School located at 319 Brookfield Road, Fiskdale, MA Open: Wednesday, Thursday and Friday when school is in session, 10:30 am - 12:30 pm Our menu selections change weekly and can be found on the school website at www.tantasqua.org Choose Cornerstone CafĂŠ from the left side menu We can also be reached by calling 508-347-9301 ext. 0915 or ext. 5161

Join us for lunch and let us treat your taste buds!

Something for almost every taste!

Inspired by dishes from around the world, we prepare a menu of fresh sautéed and grilled cuisine using only the finest ingredients.

Our menu features a variety of over 70 sandwiches, North Shore Style Roastbeef, homemade soups, fresh salads, charcoal grilled burgers and steaks. Catering services available for any occasion.

Come in today and see why we were voted Reader’s Choice Award for Best Sandwiches!

624 Main Street • Holden, MA 01522 508.829.4848 www.specialtysandwich.com

The Shrine Welcomes Pilgrims Year Round

Gift Shop open 7 days, 10-5 Free Icon Exhibit Located in Store www.StAnneStPat.org St. Anne Shrine 16 Church Street Fiskdale, Massachusetts 01518 Telephone 508 347-7338

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Foodies of New England

Come Eat Up the Savings at MIDSTATE! • One of the Highest Rated Customer Satisfaction Dealers in the area on Google!

• Midstate Auto Group always goes above and beyond with Community Outreach!

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Here are a few of the many recipients: Auburn Youth and Family Services, Auburn Police Dept, Annual Toy and Food Drives, Greg Hill Foundation, The 200 Foundation, Y.O.U. Inc, Great Boston Food Bank, Boston One Fund, and many more.

SEE OUR EXTENSIVE INVENTORY! For 10 years we have put the customer first and we will continue to do so!

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Foodies of New England

The Pleasures of

Pecorino

Written by Joan Arnold Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Pecorino, a cheese and wine shop in North Grafton, Massachusetts, is a meld of the Old World and New. The shop focuses on both European cheeses, the passion of proprietor Simone Linsin, and New England cheeses.

It may be grounded in Linsin’s European sensibility, but her friendly welcome has the comfortable feel of a New England general store. In fact, her favorite day in the shop is Saturday when “everything is happening.” Linsin is busy at the cheese case, offering tastes and making suggestions while wine director Richard Schnitzlein helps customers in the wine room.

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As Linsin says, Pecorino turned out to be her “little slice of Europe in Central Massachusetts.”

Born and raised in Heidelberg, Germany, her girlhood was spent in a small-town Marktplatz (market square) where her mother ran a restaurant, her grandmother ran an inn, and Simone worked in both. “Since I could think, I was always in the kitchen,” Linsin says, and her own kitchen remains her favorite place at the end of the day.

The influence of Linsin’s grandfather, who sold his own sausage at his butcher shop on the square, is seen in the selection of charcuterie offered at Pecorino.

“From the Basque region of France, Ossau-Iraty is a cheese with an ancient lineage.”

On a recent visit we talked about sheep’s milk cheeses. Ossau-Iraty, Linsin suggested, is an excellent place to begin. From the Basque region of France, Ossau-Iraty is a cheese with an ancient lineage. Basque shepherds have been grazing sheep in the upper pastures of the Pyrenees for over a thousand years and making a nutty and herbal cheese from rich summer milk. I asked Linsin how she would go about using a few sheep’s milk cheeses in simple summer suppers.

Linsin first suggests a picnic. She begins with an Abbaye de Belloc, a regional cheese made by Benedictine monks, served with a dab of French black cherry confiture, the traditional jam pairing for Basque sheep’s cheeses. The picnic is rounded out with Fra’Mani dry Salametto, flavorful pork salami, some olives, and a crusty baguette, all of which can be found on the shelves of the shop.

When pairing a wine, Schnitzlein says, it “seems so natural to pair the wines and foods from places that through trial and error, have developed a synergy.” Following this thought, he suggests a rosé from Irouleguy in the Basque region of France.

Voilà! A picnic in a high mountain pasture of the Pyrenees overlooking a flock of grazing sheep.

Linsin next suggests a warm dish featuring Albala Tierno, a Spanish sheep’s cheese coated beautifully with rosemary and honey. The idea, she

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Foodies of New England

says, “is that one can create a very simple but flavorful dish by using just a few highquality ingredients.” In this dish, tagliatelle pasta is drizzled with olive oil then topped with shavings of the Albala Tierno.

The

honey and rosemary mingle with the warm pasta, and roasted Spanish Marcona almonds finish the dish. To drink, Schnitzlein proposes a Rueda, saying the white wine has “a savory herbal aspect that will pick up the rosemary flavors of the cheese.” Served on the back deck, one is transported to an evening meal on a terrace in Spain.

Linsin and Schnitzlein are sophisticated collaborators, knowledgeable, and unpretentious, and they’re eager to share their enjoyment of food and wine with customers.

Summer is a great time to visit Pecorino, this “little slice of Europe,” and put together a meal of your own or pick up some cheese

Wine Director Richard Schnitzlein

Owner Simone Linsin

and a baguette for an impromptu picnic.

Check out the Pecorino website (www. pecorinografton.com) for information on upcoming cheese and wine tastings and details about Schnitzlein’s new series of monthly educational wine tastings.

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Foodies of New England

Ahi tuna served with a toasted rice cake, a pork belly-Swiss Chard saute and a Sauce au Poive, from The Mooring

BEST in FOODIE CRAWLS

Newport:

Much More Than a Traditional New England Seaport Written by Kelley Lynn Kassa Foreword by Domenic D. Mercurio, Jr. Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

When you think about summer in New England, all of the wonderful imagery – the beaches, sand, shore, surf, scenic coastlines, sailboats, seafood – can all be found right in Newport, Rhode Island.

Of course, we New Englanders love the Cape as well, but Newport is really something special. Dotted with historic mansions that reflect America’s industrial history and peppered with the best seafood restaurants, art galleries, and shops anywhere, Newport is an experience that lingers in our hearts and minds long after we’ve journeyed back home.

Within the next several pages, we’ve created an epicurean excursion, paving your road to Newport and laying out several palate-popping places for you to enjoy appetizers, entrees, cocktails, and desserts, while you kick back in one of the most indulgent and relaxing seacoast destinations New England has to offer – Newport, Rhode Island...

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FLUKE WINE BAR & KITCHEN Not Your Average Watering Hole All fears of nautical-themed dark “sailors’ bars” disappear the moment you open the door of this multifloor, brightly lit bar and restaurant. Proprietors Jeff and Geremie Callaghan, both Aquidneck Island natives, combine Rhode Island-harvested seafood, signature cocktails, and artisanal wines into a convivial new take on drinks and dinner by the sea. Despite being labor-intensive, bartender Corey Hayes hand-squeezes fresh fruit juices for all the cocktails, many of which also use local, organic herbs.

Fluke Wine Bar & Kitchen 41 Bowens Wharf Newport, RI 02840 401.849.7778 www.flukewinebar.cim

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First, the Junipertivo: this is an herba-

would be very popular,” says Geremie. “But

ceous but light and refreshing drink of Ju-

bourbons are hot right now. So we have

Of course, one can’t taste one’s way

nipero Gin, pomegranate molasses, fresh

a bottled aged program with four different

through numerous cocktails without hav-

mint, and lime juice served in a traditional

bourbons at the moment. Our bottled aged

ing a bite or two. Fluke’s menu ranges from

martini glass. It is, perhaps, the most unique

Manhattans and Rob Roys are very popular.”

snacks, cheeses and charcuterie, crudo

more than satisfy you.

– and successful – drink we’ve had in a long

That said, the Fluke Rum Punch is not to

and ceviche, soups, salads, and small

time. Skip that mojito you think you want:

be missed. It consists of three rums – Don

plates to large plates and sides. On our visit

This is the flavor-forward but ethereal cock-

Q Cristal, Rhum Barbancourt 3-Star, and

we opted for two small snacks: crispy Well-

tail you must try.

Gosling’s Black Seal Rum, mixed with Or-

fleet oysters with mango pepper relish and

Feeling a little tropical? Go for Coco’s

ange Curaçao, fresh juices, and a sprinkle

red chili mayo, and chicken liver crostini with

Coolada, made from Plantation 3-Star Rum,

of nutmeg. Whether you need to be warmed

roasted pear, Cabernet glaze, and chives.

Coco Lopez, Allspice Dram, fresh lime, pine-

in the cooler temperatures of fall, winter,

Interestingly, the oysters are gluten-free,

apple, vanilla, a brandy-soaked cherry, and

and spring, or cooled during the warm

dusted in rice flour, and fried in a separate,

a sprinkle of nutmeg. It would be trite to call

summer months, this rum punch will

gluten-free fryer.

it a sophisticated version of a piña colada; it’s much more the adult coconut cocktail you didn’t think could exist. Not overly sugary, not overly sweet, not something that could come out of a machine.

For a stronger flavored option, try the Velvet Devil, which, despite its name and ingredients, is still a well-balanced drink. It combines Corralejo Silver Tequila, Aperol, fresh grapefruit juice, and fresh lime juice.

“We feel a good cocktail needs to slip down easily,” says Geremie. “We want people to enjoy one and feel like they could have a second one.”

Every good seafaring town establishment needs a rum drink or two. And Fluke delivers on that. “We originally thought rum drinks

Bartender Corey Hayes

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THE MOORING SEAFOOD KITCHEN & BAR Bringing New Flavors to History and Heritage

The Mooring Seafood Kitchen & Bar 1 Sayers Wharf Newport, RI 02840 401.846.2260 www.mooringrestaurant.com

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Foodies of New England

The Mooring Seafood Kitchen and Bar, which has been operating for more than 25 years, is a year-round dining destination that offers many traditional New England seafood dishes. But two years ago, when Chef Brian Pawlak came to The Mooring after closing his fine dining restaurant in Columbus, Ohio, he started to make some changes.

First, Pawlak started to take the “from scratch kitchen” approach of a fine dining restaurant and apply it to The Mooring.

As Pawlak says, “Many of the guys in the kitchen said it was impossible. That I didn’t understand the volume we’d be doing on a Saturday night in the summer time.” Now, you’ll find some house-made breads and pastas on the menu.

Pawlak also wanted The Mooring to standout against the other restaurants in town. “There are only so many ways you can

Chef Brian Pawlak

bake and stuff a lobster,” he says. “We’re doing some dishes on our menu that you won’t find anywhere else.”

One of those dishes takes a cue from the area’s deep Portuguese heritage – it’s a Portuguese Roasted Cod, served with littleneck clams, Yukon potatoes, green olives, tomato, chourice (a Portuguese variant of chorizo), Vinho Verde, olive oil, and focaccia. The second dish is a seasonal tuna dish. During the winter, it was an ahi tuna served with a toasted rice cake, a pork belly-Swiss Chard sauté, and a sauce au poivre. This summer that tuna dish will be grilled ahi tuna, served with a warm Niçoiseorzo salad, and sauce Gribiche. So if you don’t want the local baked scrod or another stuffed lobster, definitely put The Mooring on your list for Newport.

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T HE RED PARROT New England with a Caribbean Twist

The Red Parrot 348 Thames Street Newport, RI 02840 401.847.3800 www.redparrotrestaurant.com

Trio of Sorts; Key Lime Pie, Peanut Butter Pie & Dark Chocolate Torte

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Foodies of New England

The Red Parrot’s Todd Arnold

The

Red

estab-

matic, order the Bananas Francesca, The

lished in 1993, making it another in-

Red Parrot’s take on Bananas Foster. You’ll

stitution

it

get bananas flambéed with Gosling’s Black

apart is its slight twist on the classics, add-

Rum and brown sugar, served in a cinna-

ing Caribbean flair to many of its dishes and

mon tortilla shell with vanilla bean ice cream.

in

Parrot Newport.

was

Lobster Martini 3 Way

What

sets

drinks. It’s also extremely versatile. Need a

Oh,

place you can bring a large group? Want a

sweet

place for the kids? Not sure if your group

with the show-stopping Lobster Mar-

wants to end the evening with drinks, apps,

tini 3 Way. A large martini glass filled with

or dessert? The Red Parrot can fit the bill for

fresh lobster salad, topped with whole

all of those needs.

lobster meat and adorned with a U-15

The Red Parrot is a place for fun desserts. But before dessert, you might want

and

if

you

didn’t

bring

tooth?

You

can’t

go

your wrong

shrimp and served with a side of wasabi Caribbean sauce.

to try a drink or two. If you are visiting Newport in the cooler weather and want something warm, opt for the Butterscotch Bellywarmer. This combines Godiva Chocolate Liqueur, Amaretto, butterscotch liqueur, and hot chocolate, topped with whipped cream, butterscotch, and chocolate sauce.

Or, if it’s warm out, try the Coconut Martini made of Parrot Bay Rum, Malibu, and Coco Lopez with toasted coconut flakes and a chocolate drizzle.

On to dessert. One of the best options is the Trio of Sorts, featuring The Red Parrot’s homemade Real Key Lime Pie (from a recipe from Key West), the made-daily Peanut Butter Puff Pie, and the gluten-free flourless chocolate torte. Or for something more dra-

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Fluke: Crispy Oysters with Red Chile Mayo

The Mooring: Portuguese Roasted Cod

Ingredients: Oysters, shucked, shells reserved rock salt rice flour vegetable oil 1/2 red pepper, minced 1/2 mango, minced 1/2 cup rice vinegar 2 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 teaspoon Aji Mirin 1/4 cup mayonnaise 1 teaspoon sriracha salt and pepper to taste

Ingredients: Vinho Verde Broth 1/2 bottle Vinho Verde 1 cup julienned onion halves 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic 2 quarts clam stock 1/2 teaspoon thyme fresh thyme 1/2 bay leaf 2 parsley stems, washed 1 tablespoon diced potato 1/4 inch 1 tablespoon Castelvetrano olives, sliced 1 tablespoon grape tomatoes halved 2 tablespoon chourico half moon 6 oz cod littleneck clams

Directions Prepare pickled mango and red pepper. In bowl, mix sugar and vinegar together until sugar dissolved. Pour over minced mango and red pepper. Chill and reserve for later use.

Directions

Combine rice vinegar, mirin, mayo, sriracha, and salt and pepper in bowl.

Tie herbs in a coffee filter and add to liquid. Add clam juice. Season with kosher salt and pinch of ground white pepper. Reduce by one quarter.

Shuck oysters, reserving shells for serving. In saucepan, heat vegetable oil until almost smoking. Dredge oysters in rice flour and flash fry in oil until golden brown. Drain on paper towels.

To serve, nestle oyster shells on platter with rock salt to keep them from tipping. Place mayo in shell. Place crispy oyster on top of mayo and garnish with pickled mango and red pepper.

Velvet Devil Ingredients: 1 1/2 oz Correlejo silver 1 1/2 oz fresh grapefruit juice 3/4 oz Aperol 1/2 fresh lime Combine ingredients in mixing glass. Top with ice.

Shake vigorously and strain into rocks glass filled with ice. Garnish with fresh lime.

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Heat blended oil in a rondue until hot. Add onion, lightly caramelize.

Add garlic, cook until golden. Deglaze with wine.

Pull out bay leaf and herb stems. Add clams, cod, potato, tomato, and chourico, and bake at 350°. Drizzle cod in extra virgin olive oil and serve.

The Red Parrot: Bananas Francesca Ingredients: 3 scoops vanilla ice cream 2 tablespoons whole butter salted 2 tablespoons light brown sugar 2 ounces of dark rum 1 sliced banana 1 8-inch flour tortilla Directions Fry tortilla ahead of time and let cool to room temp.

SautĂŠ butter, brown sugar, and banana together.

FlambĂŠ with rum, reduce to desired consistency.

Scoop 3 scoops of vanilla ice cream into tortilla shell, pour sauce over, and garnish with powdered cinnamon sugar and whipped cream.

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Healthy at Home

Recipes by Elaine Pusateri Cowan Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

www.theuxlocale.com Elaine is Owner and Chef de Cuisine at The UXLocale. A thirdgeneration Sicilian, wife and mother of two—and now restaurateur— who describes her cooking style as slow, peasant food with an Italian twist. Elaine’s passion for food and its preparation began early in life.

“I’ve been a sous-chef since I was three feet tall, standing on tiptoe to see creations on the kitchen countertop, and I continue to learn today. My recipes and cooking style have evolved from the many memories of people at the stove; family, friends and neighbors.

Those people, and their spirit, live on in my kitchen with me.”

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Foodies of New England

Under Brick Chicken Picnic All my memories of Newport, Rhode Island are fond, whether it was 25 years ago or just a few months ago. Even on the cold and rainy days, its Old World charm and overstated grandeur transcend me. The food scene is superb (as you’ll notice in this issue). My most recent experience was at One Bellevue while staying at The Hotel Viking; just thinking about that meal gets me daydreaming of summer. Newport’s natural world is a wonder as well. The rugged coastline and stretches of beaches are just stunning and are the perfect place to have a picnic. In honor of that, I’ve whipped up a nice little picnic—pack it up and watch the waves roll in.

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Under Brick Chicken Picnic Chicken Ingredients: 1 small roaster cut in half salt & white pepper for seasoning 1 swirl EVOO 1 blood orange Directions Season chicken with kosher salt and white pepper. Preheat skillet until searing hot, about 2 minutes. Add a few drops of olive oil to pan, then place season chicken—skin side down for 3-4 minutes without touching or nudging in anyway. Remove chicken and place skin side up onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush with EVOO and zest the orange and cover with sliced oranges.

Place the foil wrapped patio brick on top and bake an additional 20 minutes in a 350°.

Braised Red Cabbage Slaw Note: This is better the next day Ingredients: 4 small red cabbage 2 dashes + 1/4 cup malt vinegar juice of 3 blood oranges 2 swirls of EVOO 2 teaspoons of sugar pinch of salt 1 swirl of sriracha Daikon radish microgreens Directions Cut the cabbage in half. Preheat skillet until searing hot, about 2 minutes. Add a few drops of olive oil to pan. Place the cut/flat end of the cabbage in pan without nudging for a good 4 minutes. Add a few dashes of malt vinegar and cover to steam for an additional 4-5 minutes—remove from pan and let stand until cool enough to cut.

In a mixing bowl combine orange juice, olive oil, sugar, salt, and sriracha, then whisk until sugar is dissolved. Slice cabbage, add to bowl, and toss until every piece is covered in dressing. Refrigerate for a few hours, but note that it’s best after 24 hours.Toss in the microgreens when you are ready to serve.

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Quick and Easy Olive Tapenade Ingredients: 1 1/2 cup pitted Sicilian olives—The ones I used were stuffed with sundried tomatoes. Win! 1 1/2 cup Kalamata olives 1 cup sun-dried tomatoes 2 tablespoons capers Few swirls EVOO A nice crusty bread Directions Rough chop all ingredients and combine in bowl, swirl a little EVOO, and spoon onto bread.

To toast or not to toast is up to you.

Herbed Ricotta Crostini Ingredients: 1 bunch fresh parsley 1 handful of fresh chives 1 handful of fresh microgreens --only use basil if you are eating it right away, as basil will brown.

16 oz ricotta cheese A nice crusty bread A few swirls of a good local honey Directions Rough chop herbs, but small enough to pass through pastry tip without clogging, and combine with ricotta. Spoon the mixture into a pastry bag with a wide tip. Pipe onto crostini and drizzle with honey. You can store it in your fridge up to 5 days.

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5 Secrets to Gluten Free Success • Travel with snacks • Ask questions • Do weekly meal-planning • Eat whole plant-based foods • Be grateful

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Every issue is packed with engaging, informative articles and delicious, easy-to-make recipes.

And of course... the awardwinning photography!

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®

Magazine

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Foodies of New England

finds Powell & Mahoney Craft Cocktail Mixers Brian Powell and Mark Mahoney began crafting their natural cocktail mixers after realizing they weren’t able to recreate the same quality cocktails they often enjoyed from their local mixologist at their home bar.

We have reinvented America’s best-loved classic cocktail recipes by swapping out artificial flavors and preservatives for only the finest, hand-selected juices and pure cane sugar.

At Powell & Mahoney, we are committed to bringing you the quality, consistency and versatility of the world’s finest cocktail mixers, made with natural ingredients. Always perfected balanced, always delicious and always at home behind any bar or cocktail party.

Check out our website! powellandmahoney.com

^ Do you have a New England based food product or cook book you’d like to see on the pages of Foodies Magazine? Learn more here: www.foodiesofnewengland.com.

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Sweet Sensations

BlueberryLemon Cloud Cake Written by Lina Bifano Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

An avid cook and mother of two, Lina Bifano values the importance of home-cooked meals for her family. She understands that time constraints and children’s schedules can often dictate how a family eats—so she develops strategies that allow her family to still enjoy delicious, healthy meals, even at a moment’s notice. Her travels throughout Italy and France have been the inspiration for all of her recipes and Lina has incorporated those ideas into modern, familyfriendly fare. The desserts she creates— with sophisticated flavors that can be easily achieved by anyone—give even the novice home cook the opportunity to wow family and friends alike.

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O

n a recent trip to one of my favorite local French bakeries, I tried a blueberry-lemon tarte that paired those two flavors so perfectly well together that I made it my mission to try to make something as equally delicious. I tried a lot of different variations on my own recipes and realized that the flavors of the blueberry—unlike my go-to straw-

berries—were just too unpredictable. Given the tart and sour qualities of the lemon, the entire recipe would often ride on the sweetness of the blueberries.

Finally I came across a recipe that used blueberries to make a traditional cheesecake; the addition of lemon gave it the flavor profile that I was looking for, but it was still too heavy. It lacked the light, airy, and refreshing feeling that I wanted it to have, and again, if the blueberries weren’t perfect, the whole recipe would be off. I thought of trying canned blueberry topping to get a consistent flavor, but truthfully, there’s something about the consistency of canned toppings that just isn’t enjoyable to me and never sits well in my stomach, so I set out to make my own.

Making your own blueberry topping is a lot easier than you might think, but I didn’t just want blueberries to sit on top of a lemon cheesecake. What I wanted was a blueberry-lemon flavor you could taste in each bite but that wasn’t too dense. After much trial and error, the result is one that accomplishes everything desirable in a summer dessert. This cake has a cloud-like, melt-in-your-mouth consistency while still being smooth and creamy. One of the things that I appreciate most about this recipe is just how well it freezes. Fresh blueberries make the best desserts, so if you go blueberry picking, you’ll be able to enjoy the fruits of your labor all year round by whipping up a few of these cakes, sticking them in the freezer and enjoying them later. This is not a recipe that stays consistent when you double it, so if you’ve got a lot of blueberries on hand, you’ll have to start from scratch each time.

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Directions: Preheat your oven to 325° F. Spray an 8 or 9-inch springform pan with nonstick cooking spray and set aside. Make blueberry swirl by adding blueberries, sugar, and lemon juice in a saucepan together over medium heat for 4-7 minutes, until blueberries are softened. Combine your cornstarch and water, smoothing out any lumps, then add to the saucepan. Bring everything to a boil, whisking and cooking for 2 more minutes. Let cool and use a hand blender to smooth out your blueberry swirl. Set aside.

On low heat, melt together the cream cheese, butter and milk. Beat with an electric mixer until smooth. Place in a mixing bowl and set aside. Sift together the cake flour, corn starch and salt. Add sifted ingredients to the melted cream cheese mixture along with 1/4 cup of sugar, egg yolks, lemon juice, and lemon zest. Beat batter until smooth and silky.

Using the wire whisk on a stand mixture, begin beating the egg whites until soft peaks form. Add cream of tartar and continue to mix, slowly adding 1/2 cup of sugar. Keep beating until medium peaks form and the meringue is glossy and smooth.

Fold the meringue mixture into the batter mixture, a third of the meringue at a time. Start by lightly folding in each third of meringue, incorporating until smooth, then starting again with the next third and again with the final third, until the batter and meringue are completely mixed together and you’ve

Blueberry Swirl

110

got a light and cloud-like batter.

Pour the batter into the springform pan until just

Ingredients: 1 1/2 cups fresh blueberries 1/4 cup sugar 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 teaspoons cornstarch 1 tablespoon cold water

shy of the top of the pan. Dollop 4-5 tablespoons of

Cake

for the last 10 minutes. Once ten minutes are up,

Ingredients: 6 eggs, separated 1 brick plus ¼ brick cream cheese 1/2 stick butter (unsalted) 1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons whole milk 3/4 cup cake flour 2 1/2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons corn starch 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons lemon zest 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar 3/4 cup granulated sugar

turn off your oven and leave the cake in there for

Foodies of New England

the blueberry swirl mixture on top of the batter and use a knife or chopstick to create a free-form swirl on top of the cake.

Place cake in a hot water bath and cook for 60 minutes at 325°, lowering the temperature to 320°

an additional 35-45 minutes. Top with a dollop of whipped cream and enjoy! Cake should be stored in the refrigerator, taking care to cover completely, as it can easily pick up the flavors of other food you may have in your refrigerator.

Yields: 1 cake Serves: 8-12 slices

Foodies is ‘Sticky’ “Did you know that 93% of Americans read magazines, and that the most popular magazine category in the world is Epicurean (food)? Did you also know that when Americans pick up food magazines, they read them for an average of 43 minutes – uninterrupted by cell phones, conversations, or anything else?”

If you want to give your brand the attention it deserves, then ask our Foodies designers to customize an ad for you, wrapping it in the recipes and features of Foodies Magazine to make your message truly memorable.

Contact Domenic Mercurio at: domenic@foodiesofnewengland.com 508-471-1171

Brew Review

The Foamy Head of the

Medusa

The last few years, the number of inventive, high-quality microbreweries in New England has risen to well over 50 establishments. Some of these pioneers have reached mythical status amongst dedicated beer lovers, and the Medusa Brewing Company is well on its way. As I write this, they will be celebrating the 2nd anniversary of the opening of their microbrewery and taproom, right in the very walkable downtown area of Hudson Massachusetts. Head brewer Keith Antul and co-founders Tom Sutter and Keith “Sully” Sullivan favor European styles, hoppy American ales, and rich full-flavor mash ups of the darker, spicier expressions. At any given time, the well-designed and social taproom has between 15 and 20 choices on tap. The list of names is cultural, quirky, and literate. The Spring tap list included Wittershins, Chapterhouse, The FuWritten by Matt Jones Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

turist, and Laser Kitten, to name a few. For the purposes of my review, I sought out the basic expression of their top selling “Luminary” Cream Ale, which is described as a crisp, refreshing, light-bodied ale that’s brewed with German Pilsner malt, organic brown rice, and German Opal hops.

Now, I won’t lie; the brown rice gave me pause. Many of the giant beer magnates

Matthew Jones is a curmudgeon

have switched from the old-fashioned grains to the cheaper rice, and none of them have been better for it. This cream ale is an exception! On tap or fresh from the 32oz.

and a crusader for a world of

growler, this light ale pours a firm, thick, creamy head that sits proudly for a long while.

quality and originality. He has spent

The color is golden, and the cascade of bubbles is small to medium, hinting at the

the last 25 years restoring books,

Pilsner malts. The nose is lemony and a touch sour with a hint of cereal notes. The first

documents maps and globes.

taste confirms all of this, and by the third sip your palate works out just how refreshing

When he is not teaching Japanese martial arts or climbing mountains, chances are he will be testing out

this ale can be. The creaminess and touch of maltiness is well balanced with the hops, and at 5.6% ABV it works equally well as a standalone beer or a strong compliment to pizza, burgers, or any fried seafood. Back in the day, older drinkers may remember a certain cream ale in a metallic green can coming out of New York. Thankfully Luminary

the merits of best brewed or

doesn’t share the creamed corn aspect you may attribute to the stylings of this ale from

distilled libations.

generations past. Luminary is just a straight up, thirst-quenching, and satisfying beer.

It’s round and full-flavored, and I found myself finishing the first glass long before the last of the foam disappeared.

I highly recommend you stop in to try one of their quick-to-sell-out milk stouts, Scotch ales, or Belgian ales. In 2016 they won a gold medal for their “Duchovni” Bohemianstyle Czech Pilsner at the World Beer Cup. The facility has a BYOF policy and supplies a number of take out menus. A-list patrons, members of the Inner Circle, are treated to German-style soft pretzels. In the evening on weekends, they sometimes offer local musicians for your listening pleasure as well.

Cheers, everyone!

Medusa Brewing Company 111 Main Street Hudson, MA 01749 978-310-1933 www.medusabrewing.com

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Whiskey

Under Loch & Key

Whiskey

Storage

Written by Ryan Maloney Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Ryan Maloney has over twenty five years experience in the spirits industry. He is the founder of The Loch & K(e)y Society and the creator of www.lochandkey.com a forum based whisk(e)y website.

Ryan was just inducted into the Keeper of the Quaich Society in Scotland, one of whisky’s highest honors. He can also be heard on WCRN AM830 on his radio show “It’s The Liquor Talking”. However, Ryan is most recognized as the owner of Julio’s Liquors in Westborough MA, where amongst other accolades he has been three times awarded “Retailer of the Year”.

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Foodies of New England

Recently, someone was telling me that they keep their whisk(e)y bottles in the wine rack above their refrigerator and the open bottles inside.

I tried not to look too shocked, and with a straight face I asked the reasoning behind this storage solution.

He said, “Well, I don’t drink wine so it seemed like a good use of space, and I figured the cold would preserve the flavors.” I gave a shrug and had to admit that he had sound reasoning for someone who didn’t know better.

But this little encounter lead me to this issue’s topic of, “Whisk(e)y Storage: The Do’s and the Hell Don’ts.”

Let’s start with my friend’s use of the kitchen refrigerator; there are several problems with it. First, above the refrigerator is a terrible place to store any type of beverage. The heat (yes, heat!) that the refrigerator throws off is damaging to wine, beer, and even whiskey. I always picture a level of Hell where kitchen designers and cabinet makers that put wine racks above the refrigerator are forced to drink all the wine they have ruined. Although whiskey is pretty durable, heat and light are not only damaging to the whiskey itself but also to the cork that seals most bottles. continued on page 116

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And since I mentioned “cork,” that’s the second problem with the wine rack scenario: the angle of the bottle. When you store wine, you want an angle where the wine touches the cork so the stopper does not dry out and lose the seal. However, with whiskey, contact with the higher alcohol liquid can actually disintegrate the cork, causing it to lose the seal and evaporate. Plus it will leave nasty residue in the liquid. Therefore, as a general rule whiskey should be stored upright in a cool, dark (or at least no direct sunlight) area and away from any extreme heat.

Wait, it sounds like the inside of the refrigerator would then be a great place to store whiskey! Well, yes and no. “Yes” it is cold and dark (the light does go off when you shut the door, trust me), but “no” it is a little too cold in that you might stiffen and shrink the cork, causing a bad seal. And you will lose some flavor if your whiskey is too cold; with many whiskies being un-chilled filtered, you could cause the whiskey to cloud up. The ideal is a constant cool temperature of mid 50°F to under 70°F, upright and no direct light. If you do this, your whiskey will have an almost infinite lifespan!

Now, as you get more into whiskey, you will find that you will have many bottles opened at the same time and there may be

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Foodies of New England

“Therefore, as a general rule whiskey should be stored upright in a cool, dark (or at least no direct sunlight) area and away from any extreme heat.

long periods before you revisit an opened bottle. I use the 1/3 rule to determine how I want to protect the remaining whiskey in the bottle. The first 1/3 of the bottle, I don’t really need to worry about; I drink or store as I please. As I’m drinking the next 1/3, I might spray a little preserving inert gas (www.PrivateReserve.com), if I know I won’t go back to that bottle for the next six months. However, as you approach the last 1/3 of the bottle, you need to plan what you want to do with it. If it is an expensive whiskey and you only drink it for special occasions, like once a year, I would use the inert gas. This allows you to keep it in the original bottle so everyone can “ohh” and “ahh” when you present it to guests. If it is special only to you, I would transfer it into a smaller bottle to give the liquid smaller head space and less

can send my invitation via this magazine :).

result is new combinations, and the barrel is

contact with oxygen. (Don’t forget to label

There is also a neat trend that I like to call a

never empty. You can even season a barrel

the new bottle if you want to keep track of

“Lazarus Barrel,” where you dump whiskey

first with other liquids like sherry and create

what is in it.) If you have many bottles in that

into a mini oak barrel (www.northamerican-

a finishing barrel for your mixed whiskey.

last 1/3 range, it’s fun to have your whiskey

barrel.com … “lochkey20” code will save

These mini barrels let you experiment and

friends over and host a tasting party—ask

you 20%) and let it age. The point is you

have fun. Just remember that there is never

them to bring their 1/3 bottles over too! (You

keep filling the barrel with dying bottles, the

a bad day for good whiskey!

Welcome to Rockyland The Yo, Philly! Rocky Film Tour, LLC www.theyorockyfilmtour.net mkunda33@comcast.net • 717.343.3616 Summer 2017

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Wines of Distinction

Mozzafiato Moscato d’Asti: A Sweet Summer Sipper

Picture it… it’s a nice, warm summer evening.

You’re looking to pop a bottle of something light, sweet, and refreshing. But what? Well, in Piedmont, Italy, the Piedmontese (the local people of the Piedmont region) call the answer to your question, “Moscato d’Asti”.

Written by Domenic Mercurio, Jr. Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault Styling by Dona Bourgery

It’s a wonderful, sweet, lively sparkling wine made from the decadent Moscato grapes that are indigenous to the Piedmont, and it’s crafted in a very interesting and unique way that gives it its charm and attractiveness.

Moscato is well-known and a pretty commonly-purchased white wine, given its

Known in restaurant circles as

sweetness and low price. But, many frequently confuse Moscato (the still wine – no

The Wine Guy, Domenic is focused

bubbles) with Moscato d’Asti. They are very different. Many areas known for wine

on food and wine education.

production make the popular, inexpensive brands of still Moscato, including the United

Domenic’s enthusiasm and passion for food and wine, propelled him into

States (California), Spain, and Chile. France – of course – has made Muscat wine famous, but that is a whole different quality of viscous and velvety dessert wine.

Moscato d’Asti is its own man. Strictly from the Piedmont (an Italian word meaning

a local TV wine education series,

“foot hills”) region of northwestern Italy, Moscato d’Asti comes from the province of Asti

The Wine Guy, in which he took

and sometimes from the provinces of Alessandria and Cuneo, and is always “frizzante”

viewers on a tour of California and

– or lightly sparkling – as opposed to its well-known cousin, Asti Spumante (boasting

Italy’s wine regions and historic

full, Champagne-style bubbles). In Asti, Moscato and Barbera (the typical red grape

destinations.

from Asti) live in harmony, each fulfilling the needs of Piedmontese wine drinkers who seek these wines out day after day. No other country produces Moscato d’Asti – it’s

In addition to being the editor and

exclusive to Italy and to Piedmont, much like Champagne can only come from Cham-

publisher of Foodies of New England

pagne, France. As a result, the quality of Moscato d’Asti is under tight control not only

magazine, Dom is the host of Foodies

by the wine makers, but by the Italian government. You see, each bottle of Moscato

of New England, a dynamic and

d’Asti dons a neat little green neck tag indicating DOCG status (Denominazione Origine

educational TV show. The show features New England’s best, award-winning chefs, and their signature recipes.

Controllata e Garantita), which means that the origin of this wine is certified by the Italian government to be truly the source of Moscato grapes in the Piedmont region, and nowhere else. It’s their guaranty that this is no knock-off and that its quality is high, its taste will be pleasing, and an actual craftsman toiled over this wine until achieving perfection.

To that end, how is Moscato d’Asti made? Well, it’s a pretty simply process, actually, but one that requires expertise and an advanced level of wine-making knowledge.

The Moscato grape is delicate, and it must be treated correctly or damage may occur during pressing or fermentation. To begin, the Moscato grapes are usually hand-

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Foodies of New England

harvested and manually pressed to allow for close examination by the wine makers and their team. After the pressing, the resulting juice and pulp is then stored in refrigerated stainless steel tanks at near-freezing temperatures to prohibit fermentation.

When the wine maker is ready to begin fermentation, the juice and pulp is transferred into other stainless steel tanks, the temperature is allowed to increase, and fermentation begins.

The carbon dioxide

that develops during fermentation is stored in bubbles, giving the wine its frizzante, or sparkling, appeal. After about 5% of the wine’s natural sugar is fermented into alcohol, the wine maker stops the fermentation by freezing the juice (freezing the wine causes the yeasts – which allow fermentation to begin – to stop working). Shortly thereafter, the juice is bottled under the

Mozzafiato is also very versatile and ap-

(it retails around $9.99-$11.99). And don’t

pressure of the carbon dioxide which was

peals to folks who aren’t wine aficionados,

forget to delve into the fantastic recipe

created during fermentation.

in addition to those more serious wine drink-

we’ve offered as a complement to this lively

Mozzafiato Moscato d’Asti is made in this

ers who want the real McCoy when choos-

sweetie. One sip with the right food partner

traditional way, and it’s a great example of

ing any wine. It’s refined, but flashy; sweet,

and you’ll become hooked for life – well, at

high-quality Moscato d’Asti at a fair price.

but clean finishing… it’s a wonderful wine

least for the entire summer!

Its low alcohol and combination of sweet

for light appetizers, mixed nuts, desserts, or

pineapple, peach, and apricot flavors, as

just by itself. Mozzafiato is just right for an

fiato Moscato d’Asti 88 points:

well as its bright, cleansing acidity, allow

outdoor garden party, formal or informal re-

bright, sweet and clean happiness-inducing

for a perfect pool-side sipper without the

ception, or even just to relax at home.

summer sipper!

common experience of an alcoholic fog as-

Ask for Mozzafiato Moscato d’Asti at

sociated with drinking wine under the hot,

your favorite supermarkets or wine shops

Foodies of New England gives MozzaA fresh,

-FNE.

summer sun.

Summer 2017

119

Liberating Libations

Muggy Summer Nights

L

azy summer nights stem from busy, hot summer days. Whether you are working, running the kids around, or doing yardwork, at the end of the day we all deserve a cold, relaxing cocktail to unwind and decompress our minds. Finding the time to squeeze this in can sometimes be difficult.

Written by Adam Gerhart

Lazy Summer Nights is our theme this article and we have the cocktail for just that!

Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Imagine your busy day has just settled. The kids are in bed, the dishes are done, and the yard is freshly mowed. You sit down in your lawn chair admiring the day morphing to night. The heat has dissipated, and the slight breeze is enough to

Adam Gerhart has been bartend-

make you smile. The stars come alive; the crickets sing you a song. This is the win-

ing since he was 17. Growing up

dow you have been given. The window of appreciating all that you have and all that

in upstate New York along the

is given. Hard work paid off while absorbing the beauty of nature and life simplicity.

Hudson River, he worked his way up from washing dishes in the restaurant industry and worked in all

But what a perfect time for a cocktail. The window is small and ever-closing. Why not have this quick and easy cocktail in your back pocket so the moment doesn’t slip away?

positions a restaurant has to offer. Adam feels that learning-bydoing is the best training method,

Watermelon Ginger Mule

and considers it a very big reason

Ingredients:

for his success.

2oz watermelon vodka

Making a guest’s experience memorable and giving them a quality drink is where Adam’s passion lies.

Adam believes that, if he and the people around him are having fun, it’s not work. He also feels passionate about turning someone’s day around by putting exactly what they want in front of them, and creating that special drink that makes them say, “Wow.”

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Foodies of New England

5oz ginger beer Wedge of fresh lime or lemon Over ice in the copper mug (optional slice of watermelon for garnish) Directions: Easy, quick, and exceptionally delicious! The key to this cocktail is the copper mug.

Copper is an excellent conductor. The icy temperature of the drink is transferred to the mug and thus your lips when you sip from it, cooling you down as you relax.

Also, the handle is away from the mug: your hand doesn’t warm the drink, and your cocktail stays icy cold in the summer’s “muggy” heat.

So when the summer has you craving a lazy cocktail evening, the Watermelon Ginger Mule is a perfect way to end a day. Stay cool this summer, and as always, enjoy responsibly.

Summer 2017

121

Honey Glazed Wings with Garlic Barbecue Drizzle Recipe courtesy of Mill Pond Tavern Ingredients: 2 pounds chicken wings 1 cup low-sodium soy sauce 1 tablespoon cilantro, chopped 1 tablespoon chives, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 lemon, juiced 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons butter 2/3 cup clover honey Barbecue Garlic Drizzle 3 tablespoons butter 3 large cloves garlic, minced Pinch of cayenne 1 1â „2 cups ketchup 1 cup brown sugar 1 cup honey 7 tablespoons soy sauce

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Foodies of New England

Directions 1. In a saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Add tea bags and simmer Place wings in a dish and add the soy sauce, chives, cilantro, garlic, and lemon juice. Toss well to coat; marinate, refrigerated, for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours.

2. Remove wings from marinade and pat dry.

Season with salt and pepper 3. In a large sautĂŠ pan over medium-high heat, melt the butter in the olive oil. When the butter stops foaming, add the honey and chicken wings and fry until browned, about 5 minutes, turning the wings over often to coat them. Continue cooking until sticky and cooked through. Garnish with garlic BBQ sauce drizzle and serve.

4. Garlic barbecue drizzle: In a small saucepan melt butter over medium heat. Add in garlic and cayenne. Cook, stirring for about 2 minutes or until the garlic is softened. Add in the ketchup, honey and soy sauce.

Bring to a simmer, stirring constantly. Simmer for another 4-5 minutes.

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- Domenic D. Mercurio, Jr., Foodies of New England.

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“If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.”

— J.R.R. Tolkien