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Unleash Your

Sandwich Creativity Hot, cold, healthy and delicious!

Best of...

New England Artisan Sodas Colby Hill Inn Traditional New England Cuisine with a Twist First Leaves Family Farm Changing the Scene of Winter Greens

Spring 2016 DISPLAY UNTIL MAY 31, 2016

S

®


Born From The Heart Of Jamaica Perfect Harmony In a highball glass 2oz of Appleton® Signature Estate Blend Rum 3oz Harmony Springs Black Cherry Soda 2oz Harmony Springs Cola Garnish with fresh blackberries

Appleton® Estate Jamaica Rum. 40% alc./vol. (80 Proof). ©2016 Campari America, San Francisco, CA. None sweeter than a cup tipped responsibly.

The Appleton Estate, nestled in the Nassau Valley, is a glorious and fertile land located in the heart of Jamaica. At the Appleton Estate, the production of our beautifully complex and aromatic rums is not just a passion—it’s a craft.

www.appletonestate.com


LAKESIDE PHOTO STUDIO

The Publick House has been creating picturesque New England weddings for over 240 years as a full-service destination wedding venue!

RANDALL GARNICK PHOTOGRAPHY

LAKESIDE PHOTO STUDIO

LAKESIDE PHOTO STUDIO

2 Restaurants • Bakery & Yankee Gift Shop 10 Private Banquet Rooms for 8 - 275 Guests • Garden Tent for up to 220 Guests 2 Gazebos or The Meadow for Your Ceremony • 115 Overnight Guest Rooms • Outdoor Pool

SHAWN KELLY PHOTOGRAPHY

ERICSON WOLFE PHOTOGRAPHY

CREATE YOUR OWN HISTORICAL ROMANCE Listed in the National Register of Historical Places

277 Main Street, Sturbridge, MA 01566 • www.publickhouse.com 1-800-PUBLICK • 1-508-347-7323 Ext. 286 • sales@publickhouse.com


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Spring 2016 Contributors Publisher: Mercury Media & Entertainment, LLC Managing Editor: Domenic Mercurio Contributing Editors: Julie Grady Thomas Jodie Lynn Boduch Director of Social Media: Jodie Lynn Boduch Much Ado Marketing Writers and Contributors: Ellen Allard, Adam Gerhart, Lina Bifano Elaine Pusateri Cowan, Jodie Lynn Boduch, Ryan Maloney, David Kmetz, Brad Schwarzenbach, Jeff Cutler, Sarah Connell, Denny Corriveau, Kelly Lynn Kassa, Julie Grady Thomas, Renee Bolivar, Christine Whipple, Lisa Johnson, Di Marie Mariani, Matt Jones, Daniel Lieberman, Briana Palma Professional Photography: Scott Erb & Donna Dufault Erb Photography Art Director: Rick Bridges Richard Bridges Design Website: Jodie Lynn Boduch Much Ado Marketing Account Manager: Carol Adlestein Jody DiBella Foodies of New England Magazine Box 380 Sturbridge MA 01566 domenic@mercurymediallc.com scott@erbphoto.com jodie@muchadomarketing.com rick@richardbridgesdesign.com All content Š2016, Mercury Media Entertainment All Rights Reserved Printed in USA Foodies of New England assumes no financial responsibility for errors in advertisements. No portion of Foodies of New England, advertising or editorial, may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written permission of the publisher. The information contained in this publication is believed to be accurate, however the publisher does not guarantee its accuracy. The opinions expressed by others within this publication are not necessarily those of the publisher or its employees. By accepting advertising neither Foodies of New England nor Mercury Media Entertainment is endorsing or guaranteeing the quality of service or products within those advertisements. Every effort is made to ensure that the advertisements come from reputable companies, however we cannot take responsibility for how an advertiser deals with the public.

Traditional Dagwood Sandwich Food styling by Dona Bourgery and Susan Barba

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Follow us on Twitter @ FoodiesofNE

Spring 2016

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Contents Features

14

Sandwich Season!

The Building of an American Legacy

40

14

Market 32

A Unique Foodie Experience

44

Colby Hill Inn

Traditional New England Cuisine with a Twist

52

Anzio’s Mobile Brick Oven Bringing the Pizza Oven to You

60

Dinner Under the Stairs

A Grand Marnier Accompanied Five-Course Dinner

44

68

First Leaves Family Farm Changing the Scene of Winter Greens

78

Raised in a Barn

Table 3 Restaurant Group’s Latest Venture

84

Best in New England Sodas Local, Artisan Sodas

96

Do You Love Coffee?

68

Barrington Coffee Roasting Company

110

The Wayland Farmer’s Market A Warm Oasis in the Long Winter Months

Cover: European Style Veggie Dagwood Sandwich, see recipe on page 130. Food styling by Dona Bourgery and Susan Barba

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Foodies of New England

84


Departments

48

History of...

56

74

Garlic

56

Gluten Free

Soups & Sandwiches

64

Gardens by Renee Planning for Spring Planting

74

Wild Cheff

Unleashing Your Sandwich Creativity

100

Healthy at Home

An Ode to the Spanglish Sandwich

114

Sweet Sensations A Very Special Tiramisu

118

Brew Review Season of Renewal

122

Whiskey-Under Loch & Key

100

Age is Just a Number

126

Wines of Distinction La Bodega de los Andes Malbec

128

Liberating Libations Layers of Liquid

128 Spring 2016

7


Raise a

Glass Better yet, raise the bar.

Massachusetts Mule In a Highball or copper mug if available 1.5oz SKYY Vodka 5oz Harmony Springs Ginger Beer Garnish with fresh cranberries or Pomegranate seeds and a lime wedge

SKYY® Vodka distilled from grain. 40% alc./vol. (80 proof). ©2016 Campari America, San Francisco, CA. Please enjoy responsibly.

SKYY was born with the belief that everything can be made better with a little fresh thinking. It’s how we create our vodka and the way we see the world. So come, have a drink with us!

www.skyy.com www.skyinfusions.com


Experience New England Dining at its Best

N

estled on 600 acres of New England countryside, Salem Cross Inn offers seasonal menus with traditional fare alongside what today’s dining public is looking for. Incorporating heirloom vegetables and herbs grown in our own gardens, and locally raised beef, everything is prepared fresh daily. Experience the ever popular Fireplace Feasts where prime rib is roasted using an antique roasting jack in the fieldstone fireplace in this 18th century farmhouse. Visit our website to learn more about our Drovers Roasts, Farmers’ Dinners, Christmas Memories Dinner Theater, New England weddings and other family events.

Photo: Heidi Finn

260 West Main Street • West Brookfield, MA 01585 508.867.2345 • www.salemcrossinn.com


Letter

from the

Editor

Flavor: We’ve Got it Springing Out All Over It’s sandwich season. And what makes a better accompaniment to a custom, handcrafted, high-piled sandwich than a refreshing, locally-produced soda? This issue is dedicated to New England’s most fantastic fabricators of the sandwich – a unique and interesting assembly of meats, cheeses, breads, veggies, fruit, sauces, and spices – as well as those brewers of New England’s tastiest, most refreshing, fruit-filled, bubbly beverages – the soda. First up, we venture to Portsmouth, New Hampshire, to the Friendly Toast, where Sarah Connell discovers sandwich greatness in the country’s oldest seaport. Then, follow Bradley Schwarzenbach to Leunig’s Bistro & Café in Burlington, Vermont. One of the oldest, continually operating restaurants in Burlington, Leunig’s is a traditional French bistro and

Happy Spring, foodies!

café that’ll bring you back again and again. On your way back down 91, stick around Western Massachusetts with our own David

Yes, it’s that time of year

Kmetz for a visit to Marty and Jim’s Sandwiches and More in Great Barrington.

again… Warm breezes,

tington Avenue in Boston. Just across from the Prudential Center in the Colonnade Hotel,

flowers sprouting, and outdoor eating.

On the opposite end of the Commonwealth, Jeff Cutler looks into Brasserie JO on HunBrasserie JO transcends the culinary gamut, offering French and continental cuisine but also specializing in marvelous sandwiches that are magnifique! Further south in New Haven, Connecticut, Lisa Johnson explores the Book Trader Café, a bookstore and café that focuses on academic and art titles and offers the best sandwiches to read by! And to wash it all down, take a trip with Daniel Lieberman to The Yacht Club Bottling Works in Centredale, Rhode Island. Celebrating 100 years of serving Rhode Islanders their favorite pop, The Yacht Club offers 25 varieties of the Ocean State’s finest fizzies. Heading back north, Julie Grady takes us to Maine Root in Portland. Come to the Vacation State and see why Maine Root’s Fair Trade-Certified, organically-sweetened sodas have been thrilling foodies from New England to Texas. Let’s venture down and over to the Green Mountain State with Briana Palma, who introduces us to Rookie’s Root Beer in the beautiful Champlain Valley in Burlington, home to some of the finest, handmade, all-natural root beer. But wait, there’s more! Diane Marini takes us to Barrington Coffee Roasting in Lee, Massachusetts, whose mission is to custom-roast the finest coffee possible – and they’re doing it. Come watch these java geniuses at work! Then we’re off to Wayland Farmers Market in Wayland, Massachusetts to peruse the freshest of the fresh in this quaint New England town. Afterwards, check out a great brick pizza oven at Anzio’s Pizza in North Grafton, Massachusetts (and other locations). They boast a mobile wood-burning pizza oven that imparts the flavors of Italy as well as… well, Italy! continued on page 12

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Foodies of New England


Georgia reuben from The Friendly Toast

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11


Since you’re so close, why not have Dinner Under the Stairs at Julio’s Liquors in Westboro? You won’t believe the white glove service surrounding this extensive Grand Marnier-accompanied five-course dinner. Sarah Connell takes us to a rustic, yet very elegant, New England-centric dining and event facility in historic Sturbridge, Massachusetts. The Barn at Wight Tavern offers foodies a relaxing, indulgent experience indoors and out, complete with master chef creations in an elegant dining room, or casual small-plate appetizers and cocktails adjacent a glowing fire pit. Speaking of the quintessential New England experience, don’t miss Christine Whipple’s review of a previously-featured gem, Colby Hill Inn in Henniker, New Hampshire. Come enjoy this beautiful and cozy bed and breakfast, meticulously maintained by Mason and Cyndi Bartlett. Another highlight: Kelley Kassa introduces us to First Leaves Family Farm, owned and operated by the husband and wife team of Ken Helinski and Larissa Molina. First Leaves offers an array of micro greens at the weekly winter market. Then, there’s our exciting series of regular departments that our foodie readers look for, including Home Grown with Renee Bolivar, Wild Cheff with Denny Corriveau, History Of… with Jodie Boduch, Gluten Free with Ellen Allard, Sweet Sensations with Lina Bifano, Brew Review with Matt Jones, Healthy at Home with Elaine Pusateri Cowan, Whiskey Under Loch & Key with Ryan Maloney, Liberating Libation with Adam Gerhart, and Wines of Distinction with Domenic Mercurio, Jr. Enjoy this issue, foodies. Spring has sprung and so have your favorite foods and flavors. Thank you for making us New England’s food magazine!

Domenic Mercurio, Jr. Editor/Publisher

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Foodies of New England


“The Building of an American Legacy” Written by Domenic D. Mercurio, Jr. Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault Food styling by Dona Bourgery and Susan Barba

Yes, you have a favorite, don’t you? Sure you do… it’s the one you think about day-in and day-out; the one that keeps you up at night, tossing and turning with desperation. So, what makes a great sandwich? Well, before we delve into the importance of that question, we need to explain our motivation for chasing New England’s Best Sandwich in this issue.

Spring 2016

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First, as we’ve very accurately depicted earlier on, everyone loves a great sandwich. After all, the good ones are extremely enticing and visually stimulating. Just reflect for a moment on the different colors of the meats, cheeses, fruit (yes, tomato is a fruit), and veggies. And whether you’re choosing from any multitude of greens – be it spinach, arugula, or Boston lettuce - a well-crafted sandwich will make even the most discerning foodie’s eyes pop out. So, we’ve decided to keep this issue fun and light, interesting yet intriguing, and we’re confident you’ll find some truly fun and unique picnic foods gracing the glossy pages to follow. But, don’t let the glorious imagery distract you from the poignant and informative writing. Our expert food writers have traveled across the six New England states to sample these monster delicacies firsthand, just to be sure they’re worthy of your foodieness. You may rightly anticipate that when you’re done reading about each of our sensational sandwich subjects, you’ll want to schedule a road trip yourself. Don’t forget to tell them we sent you. Now, let’s move on to the defining characteristics of a great sandwich. For most of us, a sandwich is very personal; something that we inherently like or dislike, and something that can be altered and changed to suit our palate. But, there are experts that actually create guidelines toward this end, so let’s defer momentarily to Food Network, which has a specific set of requirements worthy of exploration. If you fancy yourself a master sandwich builder, one of the better suggestions you might employ when executing your trade is to pack any high-moisture ingredients - like tomatoes, pickles, onions, lettuce - separately, so as not to get your bread soggy. This seems like a common sense approach, but many of us don’t think of it until we’re ready to eat our newly-unpacked sandwich and realize, “Yeah, this is a little damp for my liking.” On the subject of moisture, let’s explore veggie options. As we mentioned, tomatoes and lettuce are the go-to items for most of us. But, if you don’t want to pack them separately, you can still get that crunch from the likes of fennel in place of lettuce, or roasted peppers in lieu of sliced tomatoes. It’s recommended, however, that you blot the peppers before placing them on the bread to absorb excess moisture. Speaking of bread, choosing the right one for your particular sandwich is key. One suggestion is to pair moist fillings with dry, dense breads; not fluffy rolls. If you’re a die-hard onion fan (like me), you’ll use more than the normal two or three rings of purple raw onions slices. However, sometimes the pungency of onions can be overwhelming. So, what’s a foodie to do? Well, simply soak those flavorful rings in cold water for about 15-20 minutes. This takes the excess tang away from the onions and even increases their crispiness.

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Foodies of New England


If you like spreads like mustards and mayos, you’re amid the normal array of sandwich-lovers. But, if you want to keep it interesting, try some alternatives like pestos, BBQ sauces, salsas, chutneys, or a simple vinaigrette dressing. They add distinction to nearly any sandwich and a whole different flavor profile to the same ho-hum meats. And, when you add a spread, go all the way to the edges. This will insulate the bread against any moisture from your veggies, keeping the sog factor low. Toasting your bread also keeps moisture at bay. Now that we know some of the tricks of the trade that master sandwich crafters and picnic-packers utilize, let’s go back in time to find out just from whence this idea of meat between bread actually came? It is recorded that, in the late 1700s, French writer Pierre-Jean Grosley depicted his observations of English life in his book, Londres (also called A Tour of London). In it, Grosley writers about John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich, as he sat at the gaming table, intensely focused on his next play, only drawing nourishment from the occasional slice of meat nestled between two crude slices of toasted bread: “A minister of state passed four and twenty hours at a public gaming-table, so absorpt in play, that, during the whole time, he had no subsistence but a piece of beef, between two slices of toasted bread, which he eat without ever quitting the game. This new dish grew highly in vogue, during my residence in London; it was called by the name of the minister who invented it.” Thus, it is said, was born the sandwich. An interesting fact, the first time the word “sandwich” every appeared in written form, according to the Public Broadcasting Service, was said to be in 1762 by Edward Gibbon, author of The History of the Decline of the Roman Empire. He wrote in his journal: “That respectable body, of which I have the honour of being a member, affords every evening a sight truly English. Twenty or thirty, perhaps, of the first men in the kingdom, in point of fashion and fortune, supping at little tables covered with a napkin, in the middle of a coffee-room, upon a bit of cold meat, or a sandwich, and drinking a glass of punch.” With that kind of simple origin – beef between two slices of bread – the sandwich has certainly, “come a long way, baby.” And now, after a brief historical and practical perspective, we invite you to discover for yourselves over the ensuing pages – eyes bulging, hearts pounding, mouths watering – just what nearly 300 years of sandwich evolution has given the foodie of New England. Enjoy. -FNE.

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The Egremont - roast turkey, avacado, bacon and Swiss cheese

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Foodies of New England


Marty and Jim’s Sandwich Builders

i

Written by David G. Kmetz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

f we truly build “A Better Sandwich,” will they come? That is the self-analysis quandary that faced the owners of their eponymous eatery in Great Barrington, Massachusetts. Set in a converted vintage house fronting the main strip on Stockbridge Road, Marty and Jim’s is easy to miss on this busy path. It’s well worth the stop however, as they have repeatedly been awarded “People’s Choice” for best sandwiches in the Berkshires. Given all the fine eateries in this part of the state, that is major street cred and one the owners do not take lightly.

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Marty (Martha Brown) and Jim Kenefick met several years ago—and bonded. Both have extensive food service experience. Marty worked 35 years in Deli Service & Production and has had several employers during her career, where she learned basic skills and sandwich prep. Her last employer was the North Egremont Store (located a short distance from Great Barrington). There Marty spent almost a quarter century behind the counter, mastering those skills, creating sandwiches that were tailored to the likes of her customers, and creating a solid customer base for her employer, resulting in a positive reputation for herself, which would serve her well. Jim, having graduated from the Culinary Institute of America, chose to pursue a career in food service, gaining food chops with restaurants in New York City, Detroit, and Washington, D.C. After moving to the Berkshires, he served as Executive Chef at the famed Red Lion Inn and The Boathouse of Lakeville. Jim spent several valuable years with Holiday Retirement Corporation in Lenox. Finally, burned out from the corporate grind, he decided to “retire” in 2011 (ha!) and shortly after, met Marty. Soon after they met and hit it off, Marty and Jim looked around the area for opportunities and realized they could not find a really good sandwich in town. That culinary void inspired them to get to work preparing a powerful and enticing sandwich menu, Fried chicken salad

based on what they knew of the sophisticated regional clientele and Marty’s experience. They combined their considerable knowledge and talent towards doing everything fresh and homemade—in-house roasted meats, fresh salads, fresh soups, and entrées. They wanted to feature daily specials plus a section called Chef Prepared Entrée, grab-and-go, restaurant-quality dinners to include soups, desserts, and quiche. With these ideas on paper, they scouted around to find a storefront for several months and, with a bit of luck, located a deli that was about to close. They negotiated an offer, did some needed rehab to the space, and opened in 2011. They offer breakfast and lunch at affordable prices, including their own roast beef, turkey, baked ham and corned beef cooked on premises. And if you’re a soup lover... you’ll enjoy their delicious, hearty soups made from scratch. Offerings are seasonal and run the gamut from beef barley, lentil and kale, and Senate white bean & ham to clam and corn chowders to wild mushroom bisque. A baker’s dozen is the rule most days. Concerning culinary influences, Marty states, “We stay abreast

Signature BLT wrap

of trends, follow the better trade journals, food service magazines, local organizations, and—most important—customer feedback. During the growing season, we support purchasing produce from

“The crunch of the bread, sweet sauce, savory pickling and unctuous umami ingredients— we make some pretty impressive stacks!” 20

Foodies of New England

local farmers and farmers markets; we use several recognized purveyors for our deli provisions, meats and cheeses. Off-season produce comes regionally from Boston or New York as much as possible.”


Marty and Jim’s has been voted People’s Choice Best in the Berkshires 2013, 2014, and 2015 in the Berkshire Record. These veteran culinary architects really know about “building” sandwiches. Marty calls it layering; all ingredients are layered multiple times. “We believe this process adds to eyeball appeal while allowing the multiple flavors and textures to be tasted separately as you bite into each sandwich—you really can get the best mouthfeel from proper layering. The crunch of the bread, sweet sauce, savory pickling and unctuous umami ingredients—we make some pretty impressive stacks!” Marty’s meticulous technique and follow through (plus teaching their employees this specific procedure) is what makes them stand well apart and above. They also serve a limited hot sandwich menu including pastrami, turkey, roast beef and corn beef, Reubens, a fine assortment of 1/2 lb. grilled Angus burgers, hot Angus, signature Philly

Marty Brown and Jim Kenefick

cheese steaks, as well as “Wings, Rings and Things,” which features Tater Tots (as you remember them), french fries, brew rings, reaper peppers, wings, and tenders. The menu mix is ~60% cold sandwiches, subs and wraps to 40% hot sandwiches. So the vegetarians among us are not left out, one of their latest creations is a portabello mushroom sandwich with smoked tomato jam and a lettuce mix, which is going on their new menu. Says Marty, “We offer vegetarian options primarily as lunch specials, during the summer season when our market base is seasonal vacationers in the Berkshires; after Labor Day our market is centered to the local population. With our ‘Build Your Own’ section, vegetarian needs are usually met by customers requesting their own choices and this has worked well for everyone.” The daily specials are their signature sandwiches: Tuesday - The Egremont, Wednesday - The Great Barrington, Thursday - The Mount Washington and Friday (this writer’s favorite) - The Sheffield...seven batter-fried 16 count shrimp, served on a toasted sub roll spread with dilled tartar remoulade sauce, crisp leaf lettuce, pickled red onions, served with tangy slaw. A must have for those who crave shrimp sandwiches. In addition to these fine offerings, Marty and Jim’s also provide catering services, including baked goods, baskets and box lunches for events including the Tanglewood summer concert series and private functions. How hungry are you? Can you take on the 3’ sub? If that is not enough, they offer a 6’ version - cut in sections for easier transport of course.. So FNE reader, are you up for the challenge of experiencing sandwich building at an epic scale and culinary Everest? Strap on your thick belt and head “out west” to Great Barrington to indulge in sandwich-made heaven at Marty and Jim’s Sandwiches. Marty and Jim’s 230 Stockbridge Road Great Barrington, MA 01230 413.528.9720 www.martyandjims.com

Philly cheese steak

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The

Toast of Portsmouth

A

Written by Sarah Connell Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

visit to The Friendly Toast guarantees a nostalgia trip for Millenials and Baby Boomers alike. Patrons of all ages line up for Sunday brunch each week, spending upwards of an hour waiting for a table so that they might sample as many of the playful dishes on the menu as their appetites will allow. The Friendly Toast of Portsmouth, New Hampshire brims with expensive antiques that range from a giant toy soldier named Jake to a collection of glitzy beer lamps. Resist the temptation to pluck the Incredible Hulk’s fists off the bar and let the inspired aesthetics sink in; The Friendly Toast is a showplace for delightful kitsch.

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Foodies of New England


The Pit - Smoky dry rubbed burger topped with bacon, deep fried onions, lettuce, cheddar & jalapeĂąo jack cheese with Carolina BBQ sauce

Spring 2016

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Kitchen sink quesadilla

Buffalo chicken grilled cheese

There are certain elements of the décor that suit a particular generation. For example, while neon diner signage surely mesmerizes the senior citizen crowd, it’s the Death Cab for Cutie album (circa 2003) blasting throughout the restaurant that speaks to the brunching young professionals. Still, other evocative elements of The Friendly Toast are universal - such as the brightly-colored, unbreakable plastic plates that one remembers from his or her grade school cafeteria. It would take weeks to work through the whole menu, extensive and eclectic as it is, so it’s best to stop by with a focus in mind. Foodies of New England’s recent visit to The Friendly Toast came in honor of their enticing selection of specialty sandwiches. Served on rustic slices of fresh, house-made bread, sandwiches at The Friendly Toast are both an art form and an undertaking.

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Foodies of New England


We opted to start with the Buffalo Chicken Grilled Cheese by Marcus O’Relius. Marcus Aurelius may have encouraged his ancient Roman followers to stave off indulgences, but this O’Relius fellow doesn’t shy away from extra calories. For this dish, Chef Phil Reid tossed chicken tenders in buffalo sauce and served them on his own oatmeal bread with melted Swiss and bleu cheese along with some house-made Ranch dressing. Next, we ordered the Georgia Reuben, served on Rye bread with smoked turkey, tangy honey coleslaw, melted Swiss cheese, and Thousand Island dressing. We sprung for the Orleans Fries: a pile of fresh-cut sweet potato fries tossed in brown sugar and Tobasco sauce and served with sour cream for dipping. Who says that PB&J has to be served between slices of bread? Not The Friendly Toast. Our sandwich fixation naturally led us to the PB&J Wings – tossed in peanut butter and served with a

Georgia Reuben from The Friendly Toast Kitchen Ingredients: Grilled Anadama Bread Swiss Cheese Tangy Coleslaw Grilled Turkey Breast Thousand Island Dressing Preparation: Start with 2 slices of Anadama bread, grilled with butter Place 2 slices of Swiss cheese on both slices Add a handful of house made tangy coleslaw Add grilled white turkey breast Finish with house made 1000 Island Dressing

strawberry habanero jam. We washed things down with two of The Friendly Toast’s takes on a Bloody Mary, both featuring their house made mix. The House Maria is a delight, served with spicy jalapeno tequila and a chipotle rim. But, the Bay of Pigs was the real winner, featuring bacon vodka, a bacon garnish, and an Old Bay rim. Trust us, you won’t go thirsty. The Friendly Toast has received numerous accolades from a variety of media outlets ranging from Esquire Magazine to Good Morning America. Manager Bobby Perez attributes the restaurant’s popularity to its wide appeal, the excellent service, and a back of the house staff that never blinks when the tickets pile in. The Friendly Toast 113 Congress Street Portsmouth, NH 03801 603.430.2154 www.thefriendlytoast.com

Georgia reuben

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GOOD Food is a PRODUCT of LoVE Brasserie Jo at The Colonnade Hotel, Boston Written by Jeff Cutler Photography by Scott Erb, Donna Dufault and Claudia Weaver

W

hat’s as satisfying as a sandwich? The simplicity and comfort that comes from familiar foods makes all of us relax. At Brasserie Jo in Boston, Executive Chef Nicholas Calias ensures that diners enjoy a relaxed, yet elegant atmosphere through his menu, the ultimate in service and an interesting and satisfying dining experience. As Calias says, it begins with the menu and sometimes the simplest selections are the most popular. For instance, Brasserie Jo has a wide assortment of Croques (French-style sandwiches) on their menu. The most popular is likely the Croque Madame.

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Foodies of New England


Open faced short rib brioche with caramelized onions

Spring 2016

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Salade Frisee Lyonniase

Onion soupe Gratinee

If you’ve never seen or tasted this creation, imagine slices of

Though they serve and present the best in French cuisine, Bras-

hearty bread surrounding tasty ham, enrobed in Mornay sauce

serie Jo and Calias are focused on sustainable foods and locally-

and topped with an egg or two. In fact, Calias says the egg is the

sourced ingredients. According to the chef, the restaurant regu-

key component.

larly scores at the top of the list of green restaurants in Boston.

“It’s all about patience and a properly-cooked egg,” said Calias.

“We work with some great fishmongers, produce companies,

“In the Croque Madame you can’t rush the egg. The best tech-

and farms to ensure our products are local and sustainable,” said

nique is to let it cook properly so it’s perfectly creamy.”

Calias.

That patience and forethought is the primary reason Calias and

From seafood to vegetables and many other ingredients, Bras-

Brasserie Jo are staples of Boston’s restaurant scene. With more

serie Jo stays connected to local suppliers when coming up with

than 25 years in food service, he’s been instrumental in guiding

new menu items. To that end, the sandwich selection is some-

the restaurant to its current level of success. 2015 marks the 18th

times driven by what’s available at local markets. Their regular se-

year Brasserie Jo has been serving fantastic French cuisine and

lection includes: Croque Madame; Croque Corned Beef & Chou-

the goal is to continue that success by continually-introducing

croute; Croque Chicken & Brie; Croque Monsieur; Fromage Grille;

new foods from France to diners in Boston.

Skate en Fritot; and Jambon Beurre.

That process - ensuring guests go away happy and full - is one reason people find Brasserie Jo so appealing. The menu changes

Ultimately, Calias and the staff at Brasserie Jo are in this business to provide comfort and happiness through great food.

regularly but the main French staples - with a little Nick Calias

“Food is a product of love,” said Calias. “Love what you do,

twist - remain the same. For example, he put his signature creativ-

make guests happy, be creative…and the rest will take care

ity on the classic Reuben and now Brasserie Jo serves a Croque

of itself.”

Corned Beef & Choucroute.

Brasserie Jo 120 Huntington Avenue Boston, MA 02116 617.424.7000 www.colonnadehotel.com/brasserie-jo

“We want to offer everyone who comes to Brasserie Jo a great dining experience,” said Calias. “It’s our way of making everyone feel as if they are in France. It’s the ultimate in service and good food, but at a good value done right.”

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Foodies of New England


Executive Chef Nicholas Calias

“The simplicity and comfort that comes from familiar foods makes all of us relax.� Chocolate Mousee

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Croque Madame Serves 2 Ingredients: 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 3 tablespoons flour 1 1/2 cup milk 3 oz shredded gruyere (2 oz extra for topping) 4 each thin slices gruyere 1/2 TBSP Dijon mustard 1/2 tsp salt and pepper (TT) 1/8 tsp nutmeg 4 each slices country bread 1 TBSP butter 4 each thin slices French ham 4 eggs Directions: 1. Melt butter in a 1 qt saucepan over medium- high heat. Add flour and whisk for about 1 minute until smooth. 2. Slowly pour in milk (cold) while whisking and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and reduce sauce until thicker (about 7 minutes). 3. Add gruyere 3 oz. 4. Add salt, pepper, and nutmeg. 5. Meanwhile, butter bread and place onto a griddle to toast. Flip after 3 minutes to toast the other side. 6. After bread is flipped add 2 slices of gruyere to each toast. 7. Add ham to one side and top with other toast 8. Allow to cook for 3-4 minutes until cheese is melted. 9. Top with Mornay sauce and sprinkle extra Gruyere & broil for less than a minute. 10. Crack eggs onto skillet or griddle and cook to sunny side up (can do more if desired). 11. Remove from broiler and top each sandwich with 2 eggs. Serve immediately.

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Foodies of New England


Vermont Sliders Trio Rabbit- Vermont rabbit, chocolate hazelnut chevre & blood orange marmalade. Venison- Cinnamon aioli, caramelized shallots, apples & Vermont cheddar. Duck- Cherry compote & seared foie gras. Each served on a port roll with a pickle.

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Foodies of New England


B

Written by Bradley Schwarzenbach Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

eing gourmet. Being a “foodie,” it turns out, is really only partly about the food. Anyone can create a beautiful room and serve up poorly-planned meals. And anyone can put time and effort into crafting a gourmet meal and fail in the presentation. Bob Conlon, the co-owner of Leunig’s Bistro in Burlington, Vermont, makes it clear better that the truly successful establishments excel on both of these points. In our time together, he spends just as much, if not more, time talking about Leunig’s role in the Burlington community as the food this local mainstay offers. “Restaurants are actually about people,” Bob says. “You don’t just go for the food. We have really good food but coming to Leunig’s is an experience.

Spring 2016

33


“We’re a center of the community,” he continues. “But we’re

the biggest city in Vermont—but a city that maintains the feel of

also an accessible French bistro and we appeal to just about

a small town. “Senator Leahy is always coming in and saying ‘Hi

everyone…We do craft burgers but also have foie gras on our

Bob’, and a certain former mayor and current senator has been

menu.”

known to drop by,” Bob says. “It’s the best location in Vermont.”

The Leunig’s story begins in 1980 when it opened in the center

He also calls out Leunig’s BLT as a must-try. At press time their

of Burlington primarily as a coffee shop -- well before Starbucks

BLT offering was a wrap with north country smoked beef, apple-

was a ubiquitous nationwide fixture. “But over time,” Bob says,

wood-smoked bacon, tomatoes, arugula, and cider aioli. How-

“we evolved into a [full-service] restaurant.”

ever, Conlon said they’re always changing their BLT to incorporate

The thought and craft that go into Leunig’s France-inspired en-

different local ingredients and changing tastes.

trees also go into their sandwiches. “All of our cheeses are local

For the diner looking beyond bread, Conlon gushed about

and artisan,” Bob says. “We source vegetables from Black River

Leunig’s Salade Niçoise with seared tuna, hard-boiled egg, avo-

Produce [in North Springfield, Vermont], and our duck is imported

cado, grilled onions, red peppers, oven-roasted potatoes, green

from [nearby] Canada.”

beans, kalamata olives, and capers.

Leunig’s hamburger, for example, uses only LaPlatte River Farm

Conlon’s commitment to quality and neighborhood action have

grass-fed black angus ground beef on a freshly-baked wheat roll.

made Leunig’s a cornerstone of Burlington’s culinary community,

But Conlon is quick to point out that the quality of their beef is

which is no small task given the bevy of fine-dining choices the

only part of the story. He recommends the Vermont slider trio that

urban village (population 40,000) offers. Still, quality and craft

includes a rabbit slider with chocolate hazelnut chevre and tanger-

dominate the menu whether you’re popping in for a quick burger

ine cranberry jam; a venison slider with cinnamon aioli, caramel-

or settling in for an indulgent beef bourguignon and a bottle of red

ized shallots, local apples & Vermont cheddar; and finally, duck

from Bordeaux.

with cherry compote and seared foie gras. Each is served on a Portuguese roll. The pride Conlon holds for Leunig’s is evident when he talks about his restaurant. “We’re the abacus of Burlington,” he says. “You can count on us.” He’s certainly one to know as he started at Leunig’s at 15 as a busboy. He’s seen Burlington evolve into

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Foodies of New England

Leunig’s Bistro & Café 115 Church Street Burlington, VT 05401 802.863.3759 www.leunigsbistro.com


“Restaurants are actually about people,you don’t just go for the food.”

Salade Niçoise Seared tuna, hard boiled egg, avocado, roasted red peppers, grilled onions, olives, oven roasted potatoes, haricots verts, Kalamata olives & capers with house dressing

Co-owner Bob Conlon

Spring 2016

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Book Trader Café Sandwiches and literature on the Yale campus

L

Written by Lisa Johnson Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

ight streams into the Book Trader Café as customers queue up at the counter. To the left, well-worn bookshelves are dotted with literary classics, psychology texts, and historical tomes. To the right, the glassed-in café holds tables strewn with Yale’s brightest discussing classwork or campus gossip.

Owner David Duda oversees the scene, serving up coffee, literature, and sandwiches. He shows his devotion for the crusty creations as he conveys this story: David Letterman interviewed Warren Zevon, the iconic singer-songwriter, towards the end of Zevon’s battle with terminal cancer. Letterman asked him to pass along some words of wisdom. “Just enjoy every sandwich,” Warren said.

36

Foodies of New England


Tempesto - Mozzarella, basil, pesto and tomatos

Spring 2016

37


A Tale of Two Turkeys

David takes this to heart; his tiny kitchen puts out some superb sandwiches, and his turkey coleslaw sandwich is our pick for best sandwich in Connecticut.

Essential Sandwich Ingredients When it comes to a sandwich, what are the essential ingredients? According to Duda, “home-cooked ingredients with an interesting mix of condiments and proteins all prepared fresh.” He adds, “The bread is one of the most important parts of the sandwich. The mouth feel of a nice crusty bread and the chewiness is essential to me for a great sandwich.” To that end, his turkey sandwich starts with onion rye bread baked fresh from New York. Everything else is made in-house, from the 12-ingredient Russian dressing to the fresh coleslaw and brined turkey. The restaurant focuses on healthy combinations. The coleslaw for this sandwich uses a combination of apple cider vinegar and just enough mayonnaise to work as a binder. The Russian dressing uses fat-free plain yogurt to maintain creaminess and boost nutrition. The sandwich combinations are the brainchild of Jennifer Tift, head of the kitchen. “Jen has been with me pretty much the whole time. She started on sandwich prep and then worked her way up,” says David.

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Foodies of New England


Chef Jennifer Tift with owner David Duda

Rising to Fame The famous sandwich owes a lot to its Yale campus location. Alumnus Adam Richman of the Travel Channel helped the sandwich rise to fame. The Yale School of Drama grad “used to come in all the time for that sandwich,” he says. “He even credits me with starting his career,” continues David, half-jokingly. “He had an internship in Minneapolis and he had no money for gas to get there. He brought in some books to the store and I gave him $80 for gas money and that’s when he began his television career. He’s a really nice guy.” When Richman was thinking of a short list of favorite sandwich-

Vegan harvest chicken salad

es, the famous foodie immediately thought of his go-to campus eatery. The sandwich attention has led to other opportunities. Tift and her team competed in the World Food Championships, entering a sandwich created from a sautéed artichoke patty. They came in 14th out of 50 teams. While the turkey sandwich has many fans, customers also rave about the Tempesta, a vegetarian sandwich made with fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced tomatoes, basil pesto, and balsamic vinaigrette on fresh baked ciabatta. Duda says the BLT is also quite popular. If you go, give yourself plenty of time to browse the bookstore and enjoy the Yale campus, filled with boutiques and beautiful architecture. For our taste-testers, we thoroughly enjoyed the mile-high sandwich and will definitely return the next time we’re in New Haven, Connecticut.

Book Trader Café 1140 Chapel Street New Haven, CT 06511 203.787.6147 www.facebook.com/booktradercafe Spring 2016

39


Experience: It’s a noun and a verb, and now it’s a supermarket.

Market 32

Written by Elaine Pusateri Cowan Photography by Paul S. Robinson

The Rolling Stones made some monumental songs, some of the lyrics still stick with us, like “You can’t always get what you want. But if you try sometimes, you just might find, you get what you need.” And before you start thinking why are we talking about the Stones in food magazine, let me introduce you to Market 32. Mona and Jerry Golub, VP and CEO of Price Chopper respectively, wanted to discuss the launch of their newest venture. You guessed it, Market 32, located in Sutton, Massachusetts (which also has two sister stores in Pittsfield, Massachusetts and Saratoga Springs, New York).

40

Foodies of New England


While the initial interview was light and brief, the whirlwind tour of this epicurean Mecca was profound and brought new meaning to markets everywhere.

Building a Better Market Market 32 isn’t just a pretty face. The building itself is a U.S. Green Building Council, Green Globes certified building—sustainable, responsible and handsome. The interior is artfully curated, achieving the perfect balance warm and welcoming with practicality and function, not to mention shelf after shelf all stocked with every anything you could possibly want, from the most basic to the one obscure ingredient you simply cannot find anywhere else. The layout is designed to be ultra-convenient for the planned trip—the quick stop for bread, bagels or a bouquet of flowers, or if you are a pokey foodie like myself, you can get lost in the specialty sections where, amongst aisles of gastronomic delights, you’ll find that the number of Italian imports has doubled. Molto bene! There are subtle differences throughout the store, and each section will have a different feel, but Jerry explained that the aim was to create a collection of strategic work in order to build one experience. The experience of bringing in the best food possible hasn’t changed, but rather the customer experience has. Based on that philosophy, Market 32’s design was dictated by the people, not the grocer.

Girl on Tour An atypical design: the first thing you see when you walk through the doors is the beauty of flora. To your right, a café with free highspeed internet access, where, unlike anywhere else, you are encouraged to linger. Next a produce section with the feel of a farmers’ market, complete with the freshest fruits and vegetables: gorgeous thin asparagus, heirloom tomatoes that—get this—really smell like tomatoes, eggplant in every size, shape and color, and just about anything else you could imagine. The bakery features an array of fresh baked goods and almost everything is made in-store. And when I say almost everything, it’s not what you think. Rather, think Italian, exquisite, flaky confections—pastries shipped frozen and baked in-store, or in-home. Beautiful wheels, gorgeous rinds, and brie tortes made in-store. Cheeses: there are more than 300 varieties to choose from, all cut in-store. The tortes continued on page 42

Spring 2016

41


are layered with berries and honey and nuts and, and, and! You could easily stay all day sampling these delectable treats, like a pillowy, phyllo pastry stuffed with crème fraîche, blueberries and mascarpone. Ever had smoked brisket at 10am? I did. The barbecue section of prepared food is off the charts. Their chicken wings are smoked in-store first, then fried, creating a smoky, tangy, savory flavor. Teaming up with Boston Salad Co., Market 32 created its own signature barbecue sauce, plus all of its salad dressings. I sampled a little of everything, due diligence and all: brisket, ribs, chicken wings, a side of velvety, smoky baked beans with some warm, fresh, moist yet crumbly corn bread to help clean things up. And, again, the cornbread is made from scratch. The prepared food section is by no means your everyday grab-and-go. Each item stands out in its own artful creation and preparation. Yet again, the most important word in this section is scratch, as in made from. I know more than a little about pizza and this pizza is really tasty. The dough is made in-store—the right way—proofed and hand stretched. It’s fired in a Marsal Brick Lined Oven in less than seven minutes. No two look alike. If you fall in love with the dough, good news, you can buy it. There is also an assortment of salads, soups and sandwiches. Each season there will be seven featured salads, which are crisp and delicious in their own right, but you can also mix, match or make up your very own on the spot. All made fresh, soups and stocks are never frozen. The soups and sandwiches are sourced locally from two Massachusetts companies and delivered daily. One last thing, be sure to look out for the “homegrown” label throughout the store. One homegrown item that I sampled was the Great Hill Blue from Great Hill Dairy in Marion, Massachusetts. It would be pure neglect if I didn’t mention some of the cheeses I sampled were out of a chocolate spoon—yes a spoon made of chocolate serving me cheese. So, to sum up the Market 32 experience, you can always get what you want, plus a few things you didn’t know you needed.

42

Foodies of New England


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Spring 2016

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Shortly after our story two years ago, Cyndi and Mason Cobb talked about re-branding Colby Hill Inn over a bottle of wine.

44

Foodies of New England


Traditional New England Cuisine with a Twist “We don’t want to be pretentious, we want to be awesome.” Written by Christine Whipple Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

C

yndi sat down with me on a picturesque July day to talk about their journey. “We decided to re-brand because regardless of the fact that the Inn was established in 1959

and has served dinner to both inn guests and the public, we continued to hear people say that they didn’t know they could eat dinner here unless they were an inn guest.” The Henniker, New Hampshire Inn was built in 1797. In 1820, the original owner, Lieutenant Samuel Bartlett, opened Bartlett’s Tavern. Going back to the roots of the name, “Bartlett’s” seemed to resonate with their guests and community. “One of the first things we did was to change our exterior signage, telling people that we are open for dinner to the public. We decided to set our table differently and changed our server uniforms.” continued on page 46

Spring 2016

45


Regularly sourcing farm-to-table food, this past winter Bartlett’s purchased over 50 pounds of butternut squash from a local farmer. In April of 2015, the restaurant menu changed to reflect tra-

Bartlett’s menu changes typically four times a year, reflecting

ditional New England cuisine with a twist. The “twist” is in how

the availability and seasonality of foods. “During the winter we

food is prepared and presented. “Our chef, Jim Bicknell, consis-

will use more root vegetables, serving heartier entrees like a Pork

tently surprises us with creative things like cranberries in risotto

Osso Buco. In the spring, we may serve asparagus or yams.

and flash-fried spinach and kale, adding a wow factor that guests

During the summer, we incorporate strawberries, blueberries, and

don’t forget.”

peaches along with more seafood items. In the fall, we focus

Since guests had asked for a casual menu option, Lobster Mac

more on things like a Pumpkin Bisque Soup or a Cranberry Ri-

and Cheese and Bartlett’s Burger became menu options. Duck,

sotto, and by popular demand always have an Apple Crisp with

steak, seasonal soups, and vegetarian options are consistent

locally-churned vanilla ice cream as a desert option.”

menu choices.

sourcing farm-to-table food, this past winter Bartlett’s purchased

Regularly

“Another menu change was wine and food pairing sugges-

over 50 pounds of butternut squash from a local farmer. “Our

tions.” Mason regularly researches wines. The Cobbs have vis-

guests love butternut squash soup and ravioli—we make our own

ited multiple vineyards in France and Italy, meeting with wine mak-

pasta—with sage butter.”

ers, experiencing operations firsthand, and have hosted culinary wine tours to Spain, Italy, and France.

Known for their Colby Chicken, Cyndi added, “In the last year, our Duck with Blackberry Orange Sauce has become a guest

Cyndi playfully grinned when continuing, “Our desert menu is

favorite. Bartlett’s Restaurant Cranberry Caramel Almond Pan-

whimsical: I had a vision of a light, simple board that our custom-

cakes came in second place in a national pancake contest; it’s a

ers love. Everyone loves our signature cocktail, Bartlett’s Passion

big hit when we offer it to our guests for breakfast.”

(a blend of Pear Vodka, pear juice, and elderflower in a sugarrimmed glass).”

46

Foodies of New England

Bartlett’s also offers cooking classes coined Cooking Confidential: An Evening with the Chef. Held January through April on


Monday nights, a class of eight has a hands-on experience with the chef in the kitchen, followed by a threecourse dinner in the dining room with paired wines. Ninety minutes from Boston and twenty minutes from Concord, New Hampshire, Bartlett’s Restaurant at Colby Hill Inn is open year round. The Inn offers 14 guest rooms.

For more information, you can make

reservations at 1-800-531-0330 or visit their website, www.colbyhillinn.com.

Mason and Cyndi Cobb, owners of Colby Hill Inn

Executive Chef Jim Bicknell

Spring 2016

47


“History of...”

Written by Jodie Lynn Boduch Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Jodie Lynn Boduch, owner of Much Ado Marketing, serves as Social Media Director and Staff Writer for the Foodies team. She’s an adventurous explorer of the culinary landscape and enjoys writing about food. Educated in both business and history, she has big plans to put the latter to good use for this column.

48

Foodies of New England


Garlic You know it when you smell it. You know it when you taste it: garlic. Given that it’s one of nature’s most recognizable (and beloved) flavors, it’s no surprise that this cousin to onions, scallions, and chives has worn many culinary hats throughout history. Garlic has been around for a while: Clay models have been found in Egyptian tombs, India referenced it 5,000 years ago, Babylon used it 4,500 years ago, and China had it 2,000 years ago—some writings suggest China used it even earlier in its history. Ancient Greeks left it out for the goddess Hecate on new moon nights, rather like our modern tradition with cookies and Santa Claus . . . though the Queen of the Underworld wasn’t really big on bringing toys. Ancient Romans were no strangers to garlic, either. From medicine to culture to the dinner table, garlic is an herb for the ages.

Take Two Cloves and Call Me in the Morning Most people know that garlic has health benefits, such boosting the immune system and lowering cholesterol. The Romans may not have had the advantage of modern science, but they believed it enhanced strength and warded off tapeworm. It was part of soldiers’ diets as well as that of ordinary citizens. Writings from England in the Early Middle Ages suggest garlic as a remedy for coughing, which is reminiscent of its usage in subsequent centuries in treating tuberculosis patients. In the 14th century, garlic was used against the ultimate infectious disease, the plague, and was allegedly effective. Maybe because the rat fleas responsible for the plague didn’t like munching on humans who’d eaten it? Just a guess—but not an unreasonable one. Other creatures have certainly demonstrated an aversion to garlic (e.g., a bird called the European starling, according to one scientific study). The “garlic is good for you” findings in science trace back to the 19th century when Louis Pasteur, noted for his germ theory of disease and for inventing vaccination, analyzed its antibiotic properties. In World War I and World War II, garlic was used to treat battlefield wounds. In 1950s Africa, Dr. Albert Schweitzer used it to treat a variety of contagious bacterial diseases, including cholera, typhus, and dysentery. Here is an interesting feature in garlic’s anti-inflammatory arsenal: It’s usage in treating swimmer’s ear. Hey, Dear? Got swimmer’s ear after my time in the pool today. continued on page 50

Spring 2016

49


Can you grab the garlic press and squeeze

that grew near Lake Michigan. “Chicagoua”

garlic imparts on those who eat it isn’t just

a little into my ear? Well, not really. The pur-

became Chicago, and the Cubs have been

a giveaway about your last meal. In ancient

ported method of delivery is in conjunction

looking for a World Series title ever since

Greece and Egypt, it was used as a fertility

with glycerin and a carrier oil, via drops into

(and we like the Cubs, so we kind of hope

test. We’ll spare you the details Hippocrates

the affected ear.

it’s their turn pretty soon).

provides, but suffice it to say if a woman had

Garlic the Vampire Slayer

Garlic the Foodie Favorite

Ok, maybe it isn’t a slayer, but garlic was

All this talk of medicinal properties and

a popular anti-vampire tactic once upon a

Dracula repellant qualities is nothing com-

time. It’s a good thing garlic necklaces have

pared to garlic’s popularity on dinner plates

gone out of fashion—imagine how Sookie

across the world.

Stackhouse of True Blood and Bella Swan

The fact that garlic is easy to grow and not

of Twilight would have disrupted the chemis-

a fussy crop may be one reason. Although

try with their fangtastic honeys if they’d had

it may seem to be everywhere, at this point

to worry about ditching the bulbs first.

in history, it only grows wild in Central Asia.

Garlic isn’t just a no-no for Nosferatu:

Today, there are plenty of garlic relatives

Islamic myth contends that garlic sprouted

known as “wild garlic,” but these are varia-

from Satan’s left footprint as he sauntered

tions within the species and not the herb we

out of the Garden of Eden. However, the

all know, love, and cultivate widely.

proscription against it among mosque wor-

Speaking of wild garlic, it isn’t really

shippers is due to the smell, not the legend.

something you want in your milk, is it? Then

The cultural influence of garlic is still on

keep it away from the cows, because if

the map—literally. You know that Windy City

they eat it or are exposed to a certain level

out in Illinois? It got its name for the Native

of garlic fumes, milk can indeed pick up a

American (Potawatomi) word for wild garlic

garlicky taste. And that very distinct odor

garlic breath following a special procedure, she’d be deemed able to bear children. Not everyone loves garlic, by the way. There exists a condition called alliumphobia, which is—wait for it—the irrational fear of garlic. Needless to say, you wouldn’t find anyone suffering that affliction in the vicinity of Gilroy, CA, which has been hosting its annual Garlic Festival since 1979. At last count they were using 2 tons of garlic over the course of the 3-day event. New England is home to yearly celebrations of the “stinking rose,” too: Bennington, VT has a 2-day Garlic and Herb Festival featuring over 100 local vendors, and Bethlehem, CT holds the Garlic & Harvest festival. Is anyone else in the mood for something really garlicky right now?

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50

Foodies of New England


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ANZIO’S MOBILE BRICK OVEN Written by David G. Kmetz Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

P

izza, delivered. A wonderful modern-day given, particu-

put a new wood-burning oven on the road. This writer covered An-

larly here in the densely populated Northeast. In many

zio’s new restaurant in FNE a few years back, and the support and

larger cities, Chinese, Thai, Indian and other culinary

enthusiasm have been infectious. Now, after establishing their street

variants grab some of the nighttime delivery action, but

cred among regional pizza aficionados, they are taking the oven to

pizza is still - well, King.

the street.

What could be better? A hot pie fairly fresh from an oven only

“We have always had catering as a feature of Anzio’s, but the lo-

a few miles away, brought to your doorstep by a happy-for-a-tip

gistics of providing pizza on site just didn’t work with only our brick

delivery maven in about a half hour. But what if...more than just the

& mortar building,” Todd says. “We can provide all sorts of pasta

pie came to you? What if the whole mass of baking Godzilla rolled

dishes and other fare that travel well and don’t lose quality with a

up to your property and set up camp? How COOL would that be?

mild re-heating, but truly hot, fresh pies were a different and more

Todd Harrington and crew at Anzio’s in North Grafton have done just that—harnessed the power and marketing savvy of mobility and

52

Foodies of New England

demanding animal. I realized the ONLY way to deliver our signature pizza to a customer’s site was to bring the oven itself!”


they went. Todd explains a bit about the specs: “The mobile oven runs between 850-1100 °F, so it cooks a pizza in about 60-90 seconds. It needs a fresh log about every 15-20 minutes once it reaches working temperature. The brick oven at the restaurant is gas fired and runs between 650-800°F, so there is a much quicker cook time out of the mobile As with the founding of Anzio’s in 2012

promising their signature pizza flavor profile

oven.” He also notes that they use the same

when Todd and wife Kathleen realized there

and taste? Could the oven provide other

local ingredients and flours as they do in the

was a void in Worcester County for high

foods besides pizza? Much head scratch-

restaurant kitchen. “Compared with the res-

quality “New Haven”-style pizza (think thin

ing and web searching ensued. After several

taurant, the mobile oven is a more intimate

but chewy crust with a nice ring of char un-

months of inquiry, they found both their oven

experience—people can see the flames and

derneath), they soon noted a lack of mobile

source and a platform for portage.

glowing coals, feel the actual heat coming

pizza ovens, too. The decision was an obvi-

Fire Within (based in Colorado) is one of

off—it is very much an old school “cucina

ous one, but the execution took much more

the few manufacturers of quality pizza ov-

rustica” [rustic kitchen] vibe.” And what about

effort. Who made mobile ovens, and how

ens, both fixed and mobile. Todd and crew

New England’s notorious cold months?

would the logistics work, strategically, finan-

decided on a model that best matched their

continued on page 54

cially and—most importantly—without com-

needs, hooked up to a Maxey Trailer, and off

Spring 2016

53


“We plan to go as deep into winter as Moth-

crowds, and they have the capacity and

er Nature will allow. This is our first season

staff to ramp up to 125 guests or more.

from April into November. More than likely

As for other “pizza-esque” offerings (cal-

Thanksgiving will be it, as all of the outdoor

zones, focaccias, frittatas, stratas), Anzio’s

festivals are wrapped up by then.”

team does mess around with some funky

Todd also recalls the challenges they en-

calzones and bread variations when they

countered in their “honeymoon” affair with

have down time during an event. The oven

the new member of the team. “The worst

is very much a hands-on evolution, and they

event (weather-wise) was Marathon Mon-

constantly look for ways to blow people

day. It was very cold and rainy, which really

away with both great food quality and cool

put a damper on the day. The best part of catering the Marathon was meeting so many great police and fire officials from all over the state, as well as the guests we had traveling from abroad.” After all, people come from across the globe to run the Boston Mara-

“The greatest element of every event is always engaging with the crowd.”

their busy calendar are a large wedding, the Italian Festival at Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Worcester) in August, the Phantom Gour-

thon. “The greatest element of every event

entertainment value. They plan to introduce

met Food Festival in Boston in September,

is always engaging with the crowd; they

new items as they gain more experience

and the America Rocks New England Tour

see the dough spinning in the air, the kids

but do not want to compromise their quality

in June 2016 featuring music from Metal-

go crazy! The smell from the oak and apple

and hard-earned reputation until they have

lica, Foo Fighters, and Black Keys to name

wood is amazing, and what’s better than

mastered them. Also in experimental mode

a few. Anzio’s mobile team goal is to have

fresh, just-out-of-the-oven pizza?”

are slow-cooked meats such as brisket and

Dave Grohl of the Foo Fighters spin a few

Granted, this custom catering comes with

pulled pork shoulder, but this requires the

pies with them.

a price: $650 minimum per event, but the

oven to be at a much lower temp, which is

mobile crew brings everything they need,

not as easy a task as one might imagine.

So pizza fans, keep an eye out for that hot fun food on wheels. If you’re jonesing for

with a four-hour event time required just to

Some of the recent events this year in-

heat and cool the oven. For that price they

clude a Food Truck Festival held in Whitin

can serve up to 25 guests and there is no

Park, Northbridge over Memorial Day week-

limit on how many pizzas they bake. At a

end sponsored by “Wooed by the Food,”

ing events through their web site.

pie every two minutes, they can produce

where Anzio’s Mobile Oven rig took first prize

www.anziosbrickovenpizza.com/mobile-

enough to satisfy the hungriest of party

for best food truck design. Other events on

brick-oven.

54

Foodies of New England

fresh pie and can swing the entrance fee to this delicious club, go mobile! Anzio’s Mobile Oven is available for cater-


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Magazine

Spring 2016

55


Gluten Free

SOUP & SANDWICHES A Marriage Made In Heaven!

Written by Ellen Allard Gluten Free Diva www.glutenfreediva.com Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Ellen Allard, the Gluten Free Diva, is an over-the-moon enthusiastically hip and motivational Certified Holistic Health Coach who helps clients banish the bloat and embrace gluten free lifestyle changes that enable them to fall madly in love with the food that unequivocally loves them back. A graduate of the Institute for Integrative Nutri-

and jelly. Or pancakes and maple syrup. Or french fries and ketchup. Let’s start by thinking outside of the sandwich box. Sure, it would be easy to slap together some lunch meat and cheese but let’s get creative, shall we?

The nice thing about the components of this Crispy Tempeh, Smashed Avocado

& White Bean Hummus Sandwich is that any of the three main ingredients are delicious on their own, so absolutely make extra. The tempeh will be lovely atop a large everything-but-the-kitchen-sink green salad. The avocado spread will be great for chip dipping. And the white bean hummus can be served along with a felafel sandwich. And those are just three examples. There are tons more. And this Gluten Free Diva always makes a pot of soup every week. It’s great for

tion, Ellen is a recipe developer,

a quick lunch or light supper -- easy to pack into a portable thermos -- or on those

food writer, food photographer and

nights when you only have a few minutes for dinner. And don’t get me started on

videographer (www.glutenfreediva. com/blog/.) She passionately promotes optimal health through informed food choices and whole plant-based foods. She loves all things food and health and is happy to talk to you about the same!

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oup and sandwiches. They go together. Kind of like peanut butter

Foodies of New England

gluten free bread dipping! Soup is the perfect vehicle for this. So, go to town. Make this the season of soup and sandwiches. They’re easy and delicious.


Sweet Potato, Rainbow Carrots & Red Lentil Soup Serves 4 Ingredients: 1 tbsp. olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 2 medium sweet potatoes, chopped 4 carrots (different color if you can find), sliced 1 c. sliced mushrooms 1 c. red lentils, rinsed and picked over to remove stones 1 32 oz. container vegetable stock 1 tsp. fresh rosemary, chopped salt and pepper to taste Directions: Heat oil in a soup pot. Add onions and saute until softened and fragrant. Add sweet potatoes, carrots, and mushrooms. Stir for a minute and then add lentils, vegetable stock, rosemary, salt and pepper. Simmer for 25 minutes (or more as needed) until lentils are cooked through and vegetables are soft. Remove some of the vegetables and then use an immersion blender to puree the remaining soup. Return the vegetables to the pureed soup. Adjust spices to taste.

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Crispy Tempeh Triangles, Smashed Avocado & White Bean Hummus Sandwich Ingredients:

Directions:

Tempeh: 1 lb. tempeh, slice as desired (best to slice from one short side of tempeh to other short side of tempeh so that it is half as thin as the original piece, then slice into smaller pieces) coconut oil wheat free tamari

To make Crispy Tempeh Triangles: Saute tempeh pieces in coconut oil on medium high heat. Flip tempeh pieces until they’re crisp on both sides. Add more coconut oil as needed. When tempeh has finished cooking, sprinkle with a little tamari and then remove from pan. Set aside.

Smashed Avocado: 1 avocado (or more as needed) 1 lemon (or more as needed) salt & pepper to taste White Bean Hummus: 1 14.5 oz. can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 1 tbsp. tahini 1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil 1 lemon juiced 1 garlic clove, minced 1/2 tsp. onion powder 1/2 tsp. cumin 1/4 tsp. smoked paprika, optional salt and pepper to taste red onion, sliced thinly romaine lettuce leaves gluten-free bread, toasted

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To make Smashed Avocado: Peel avocado. Place in small bowl and mash with fork until smooth. If desired, you can leave small lumps. Add juice of lemon. Start with half of a lemon and increase to taste. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. To make White Bean Hummus: Place cannellini beans in food processor with S blade. Add tahini, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic clove, onion powder, cumin, spoked paprika, salt and pepper. Blend until desired consistency. Set aside. To assemble sandwich: Layer tempeh, avocado, white bean hummus, red onion, and lettuce on two pieces of toasted gluten free bread.


Heathy Baked Potato Chips Ingredients: 1 lb. russet potatoes, cut into 1/4� slices Olive Oil or Canola Oil spray cayenne pepper salt and pepper Directions: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cover large baking sheet with parchment paper. Put potato slices in a large bowl. Spray with vegetable spray. Add salt, pepper and cayenne pepper. Use hands to gently toss potato slices to cover with oil and spices. Place potato slices on parchment lined baking sheet. Make sure to leave space between potato slices. Bake for 15 minutes and then rotate sheet. Bake for another 15 minutes. Potatoes are done when they’re crisp and golden. Watch carefully as the potatoes might be finished sooner.

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Upstairs/Downstairs at Julio’s Liquors Written by Bradley Schwarzenbach Photography by Scott Erb and Claudia Weaver

Westborough, Massachusetts is the home of Julio’s Liquors

However, that night’s story wasn’t told by Maloney. Patrick

(hard J sound, as in Jamaica). And even though you might think

Raguenaud, a master blender of cognacs for Grand Marnier,

it says it all in the name, don’t be fooled. Julio’s is branching out

served as our de facto guide through the meal. Tall, thin, and as

thanks to owner Ryan Maloney.

charmingly French as you could imagine—who better to introduce

Maloney has crafted a comprehensive culinary and lifestyle

you to the alcohol than the man who crafted it?

store centered around one of the largest beer, wine, and liquor

Five courses, plus tastes of a variety of cognacs from Grand

selections in the area. But it’s still a store. So, when an invitation

Marnier’s Grande Cuvée Collection, were highlighted by a tanta-

to a private dinner, hosted at Julio’s and catered by Pepper’s Fine

lizing sip and a half of Grand Marnier’s Quintessence—a cognac

Catering, turned into an article, natural skepticism set in; a dinner

and orange liqueur blend that incorporates cognacs more than

party in what is, ostensibly, a very large liquor store?

100 years old.

And indeed, upon entering things seemed to be business as usual: bright lighting, spacious and open, rows and rows of product, which is perfect if you’re stalking up and down the aisles hunting for a bottle of red to complement the tenderloin that’s slowly roasting back at home. Yet something new was there, something you might never notice if you were on the hunt for the perfect pairing—a staircase that lead downstairs, and a line of people waiting to go there. And as

“We want to create an experience, I want people to know the story behind what they’re drinking and what they’re eating.”

Alice tumbled into Wonderland, down the rabbit hole I went. Downstairs was a different world: the lighting low and warm, the

But, skip to dessert for a real standout dish. It began with an

walls adorned with scenes from early-American subway systems,

engaging demonstration on how to smoke chocolate, the conclu-

gentle Spanish guitar music coloring the background. It was ur-

sion of which was incorporated into a dessert with Grand Marnier-

bane yet intimate, a place where you really want to be.

infused cherries and salted caramel.

Pepper’s staff was busy making final place settings for a guest

With each increasingly complex drink, Pepper’s met Raguenaud’s

list of more than 40, and before pen could touch paper, Maloney

calculated palate with vibrant locally grown and sourced dishes,

arrived bearing a Grand Marnier Old Fashioned. It was almost syr-

including a substantially filling cocoa-dusted short rib of beef that

upy in texture, but hints of Grand Marnier’s citrus prevented it from

went down perfectly after all the wine and cognac that was imbibed.

being too sweet.

The entire evening had a dreamlike feel—though the cognac might

“We’re much more than a liquor store. We want to create an ex-

have had something to do with that. Unfortunately, it had to end.

perience,” Maloney said. “I want people to know the story behind

Monsieur Raguenaud signed bottles and accepted a sincere ova-

what they’re drinking and what they’re eating. And I want us to be

tion. Maloney, however, took little credit for pulling things together.

the ones to tell that story.”

He was much more concerned with making sure everyone else

Maloney certainly is qualified to tell good stories; he’s the found-

enjoyed their evening, as any good host would.

er of the Loch and K(e)y Society, a community of whisk(e)y aficio-

Just remember at Julio’s, Maloney is going against the

nados, and a member of the prestigious Keepers of the Quaich

grain; upstairs isn’t where all the decadence and delights are.

Society, which is dedicated to preserving the quality and heritage

Downstairs is where indulgence begins.

of Scotch whiskey.

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Julio’s Liquors is located at 140 Turnpike Road Westborough, MA, 01581; Tel. 508.366.1942 www.juliosliquors.com Pepper’s Fine Catering is located at 43 Hudson Street Northborough, MA, 01532; Tel. 508.393.6844

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Cocoa Braised Short Ribs of Beef Prep: 30 minutes Cook: 3.5 hours (not including resting time for the ribs) Yield: 6-8 servings Ingredients: 5 lbs beef short ribs Kosher salt and pepper 2 tbsp coffee, ground 1/2 cup cocoa, Dutch & unsweetened 2 tsp five spice powder 2 tbsp garlic, minced 3 tbsp vegetable oil 3 bacon strips, diced 1 onion, medium, diced 2 carrots, diced 3 celery stalks, split lengthwise & diced 1.5 cups red wine, dry 2 cups beef broth 1/2 can stout (drink the remainder while prepping) 2 tsp corn starch, dissolved in 2 tbsp stock 6 scallions for garnish, bias cut Directions: 1. Remove ribs from wrapping and pat dry with paper towel. Dust both sides with salt and pepper. 2. Combine ground coffee, cocoa, five spice and garlic. Generously sprinkle on ribs or toss the mixture with the ribs in a large sealed plastic bag. 3. Let ribs rest 4 to 8 hours in the refrigerator, but remember to take them out an hour before you begin cooking. 4. Pre-heat the oven to 250°. 5. On medium, pre-heat a large, heavy-duty pan. Sauté bacon, celery, onion and carrots in oil until vegetables become slightly softened (about 10 minutes). 6. Remove vegetables from the pan, and sauté ribs on both sides until browned or have a crust. 7. Add vegetables back in along with the wine, stock and beer. Cover and bake for 3 to 4 hours until ribs are fork-tender. 8. Remove ribs from the broth and place in a casserole-style dish. 9. Skim excess fat from the pot. On medium, warm the pot and whisk in the dissolved cornstarch. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes. The sauce should seem thick, but feel free to adjust the viscosity with stock. 10. Pour sauce over ribs, garnish with scallion pieces and serve.

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Gardens by Renee

Written by Renee Bolivar Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Renee is an agri-entrepeneur who has turned her passion for growing fruits, veggies and herbs into a successful and “growing” business. She believes in self reliance and lives by the motto, “Grow Your Own!” Gardens by Renee is committed to growing food, gardens, and people’s knowledge of where our food comes from, one seed at a time. Through her business, Renee teaches foodies how to grow their own food, helping them to design, build, install and manage backyard gardens that focus on a backyard experience for the entire family to enjoy.

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Home Grown

Is 2016 the year that you would like to learn how to grow your own food? Do you think growing more edibles and eating as local as it can possibly get is a good idea? Perfect. I’m here to provide you with some helpful insight and information gleaned from years of experience and lessons learned in my own gardens. There’s always so much to learn on the road to self-reliance and sustainability; it’s an endless and rewarding journey. I want to give you every chance to get off to a great start this gardening season. So, let’s begin at the beginning—way before soil, seeds, and sprouts. After the new year arrives, I enthusiastically start scribbling notes and organizing my edible expectations as soon as they come to mind. I grab a good cup of tea, gaze out my window and dream of what spring will soon bring—in the garden. I dive into some of my favorite gardening catalogs and magazines like Organic Gardening, High Mowing and Johnny’s Selected Seeds. I also surf the web to follow the big boys like Mother Earth News, Farmers Almanac (whose gardening calendar I love), and Grit. continued on page 66

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Barbara Borland writes in This is the Way My Garden Grows, “A gardener learns more in the mistakes than in the successes.” So, after I get my inner gardener flowing, I sit quietly while I let my mind replay those “Ah ha!” and “Oh yeah!” or even “Oh no!” moments from last year’s growing season, and make a wish list. Sticky notes cover catalogs and magazine pages; websites are bookmarked; pins run rampant on Pinterest. I also check inventory so I know what seeds and supplies I have before placing any orders.

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My wish list allows me to get excited and dream big. Beets, col-

Once you have all three lists—don’t forget inventory—it’s time to

lards, more corn, a grape arbor, and a cistern are on my 2016 list.

order seeds and starting supplies. You can start most plants from

Following the wish list is the get real list. This list is based on

seed, right in your own home. No need to buy seedlings every

successes and failures, space and time limits, and crop selection

time. If you’re wondering where to get seeds from (or seedlings if

and variety. It’s also where my garden journal and hundreds of

you’d rather get a head start), you can always shop select items at

Facebook posts come in handy.

Gardens by Renee, or a local gardening center.

You can make your own get real list by asking a few simple questions and giving honest answers: Where am I going to be growing? Who will be tending the garden? What must I have and just can’t imagine the season without

Seed starting is fun, easy, and super rewarding. It’s a topic we’ll save for another time. Now, get growing!

my edible expectations? Am I growing for production, variety or

For more information on Gardens by Renee, visit www.gardensbyrenee.com. You can follow Renee on Twitter @gardensbyrenee, Pinterest www.pinterest.com/gardensbyrenee/growyourown,

the pure pleasure of it all?

and Facebook www.facebook.com/gardensbyrenee.

it? What am I excited to try? What can I easily do away with? When do I want to be harvesting and how frequently? What are

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First Leaves Family Farm is Changing the Scene of Winter Greens Written by Kelley Lynn Kassa Photography by Scott Erb, Donna Dufault and Claudia Weaver

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inter greens—most often in the form of kale, chard, and collards—are hearty for a reason: as plants they need to survive and grow during the colder months. They provide us with lots of vitamin A and C, and

various important minerals. But let’s face it, while they are nutritionally beneficial, they do not always provide the “lightness” one looks forward to in greens. The joy one has over the first appearance of asparagus and spring peas in April and May far surpasses one’s excitement over the winter season of sturdy greens.

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A trip to the Canal District Farmers Market in Worcester, Mass., might just change your mind about what a fresh, local, seasonal green looks like–even in winter. First Leaves Family Farm, owned and operated by the husband and wife team of Ken Helinski and Larissa Molina, offers an array of microgreens at the weekly winter market. Using hydroponic farming methods, the couple grow and sell sunflower greens, wheatgrass, green pea shoots, golden snow pea shoots, dark opal basil, sorrel, red garnet amaranth, china rose radish, arugula, mache lettuce, and various mixes of greens. Larissa came to farming microgreens via a rather circuitous route: while studying Mexican culture at the School of the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston she began researching farmers markets in Boston. During this research she realized that microgreens had not yet really emerged on the scene in greater Boston. Farming microgreens appealed to her interest in nutrition. First Family Leaves Farm was born—or more appropriately, sprouted. “Microgreens provide a nice spectrum of the vitamins we need,” said Larissa. “And their flavor is very intense and different from that of larger greens.” While microgreens have long been used by chefs, they are just now gaining popularity among home cooks. Part of the reason is that they are packed with nutrition. Studies by the USDA Agricultural Research Service and the Department of Nutrition and Food Science at the University of Maryland, show that microgreens have high concentrations of vitamin C, carotenoids, vitamin K, and vitamin E. These studies also show microgreens have much higher levels of nutrients than do mature plants.

“There’s still a lot of education I do at the market,” commented Larissa. “The popularity of microgreens for the general public is not there yet. People come by the stand and think I’m selling seedlings. I explain to them what microgreens are and how to use them. Now, after a few years at the Canal District Farmers Market, people are beginning to recognize the little pots and understand how and why to incorporate them into their regular diets.” Microgreens can be used in a variety of ways, from serving as the basis of salads, to adding flavor and texture to sandwiches. They are best used raw, or as garnish or additions to dishes with just a little cooking. They are far too delicate for any type of substantial or lengthy cooking. But use them where you would herbs, or as a way to “punch up” your meal, and you’ll be very pleased with them. In addition to the microgreens, First Leaves Family Farm also grows wheatgrass. “Growing wheatgrass is almost an entirely different business,” adds Larissa. “People are much more familiar with the benefits of juicing wheatgrass. So in addition to having it at the market, we’ll also take orders for it over the phone.” In fact, the process of juicing wheatgrass has Larissa thinking about the next phase of the business. “I want to do more with extracting the serum with wheatgrass and microgreens. I want to experiment with processing some of what we grow.” So swing by First Family Leaves Farm at the Canal District Farmers’ Market to try some microgreens and see what the next phase of nutritional greens can mean for you.

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“Microgreens can be used in a variety of ways, from serving as the basis of salads, to adding flavor and texture to sandwiches..�

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Written by Chef Denny Corriveau Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Unleashing Your

Sandwich Creativity

H

ave you ever thought about re-creating an old classic recipe? Perhaps dreaming up a crazy food idea, and after crafting the recipe, taking that first bite, and saying, ”It’s insane, but it works!” I’m not sure if your mom ever told you to not play with your food, but as adults, it’s all about having fun with your food. Anyone can enjoy a traditional sandwich, but for those of us who seek to discover new food territory, reinventing a classic sandwich or rolling up your sleeves and putting your thinking cap on can result in some very cool food experiences with sandwiches.

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Think about all the interesting ingredients that exist out there. The potential combinations of breads, condiments, meats, toppings, and sauces are nearly limitless.

This sandwich was a winner. I believe Elvis would approve of this creativity. Is he not the one who created his own sandwich with peanut butter, banana, and

Now you’re getting it.

bacon? Sandwiches are a staple, a common ground if you will,

A grilled cheese can go from ordinary to gourmet simply by

that most everyone can relate to. They can be creative and made

using a more complex cheese or combining a variety of unique

with virtually anything. Grilled, baked, open-faced, stuffed; they

cheeses. Now think about adding sliced apples or grilled pears;

can be prepared myriad ways andenjoyed morning, noon, or night.

plenty of varieties to choose from. What if you add some caramel-

I do admit that I have had a love affair with food for many years.

ized onion and Applewood smoked bacon? Well, let’s just say, it

Food can be a discovery for those who have a spirit of adventure.

all improves with bacon, does it not?! I decided to put duck ba-

Sandwiches can be just one part of that exciting journey for you.

con in mine, along with caramelized onions that were infused with

Consider a brie and wild mushroom grilled cheese, a chicken

Cabin Fever Maple Whiskey and some Vermont cheddar. There is

and waffle Monte Christo, a Summertime Watermelon BLT, or

a word that describes this, it’s YUM!

even a duck poutine burger. It’s endless love; it’s the sensual sizzle

Artisanal breads can really help in creating a compelling sandwich. Try ciabatta, pumpkin bread, pretzel rolls, braided rolls, onion rolls, Guinness bread, brioche, challah, and so many others.

of opening your mind and palate to the possibilities of enjoying a unique personal food experience. Where will your outrageous sandwich adventure take you?

Simply put, changing up ingredients can allow you to experience a sandwich in a whole new way. I decided to take some wild boar I had braised in chocolate stout and created a delicious Southwestern sandwich that I affectionately called a Wild Boar Torta. Wild Boar has a fantastic flavor that is far more succulent than pork. This sandwich was a Mexican food lover’s dream. It combined wild boar with chocolate mole sauce, sweet corn tamale, caramelized onions, watercress salad that was scented with lime and jalapeno vinaigrette, and a fire-roasted hatch chile mayo.

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About the author: Denny Corriveau is Award-Winning Master Game Chef and the Founder of the Free Range Culinary Institute, the only national wild game cooking school in the country. As a trendsetter in the field of wild game culinary arts, and Wild Game Evangelist - Denny has evolved over the past 25+ years as a nationally noted authority regarding his “best practice” methodology regarding the culinary side of wild game. You can learn more about Denny @ www.wildcheff.com.


“This sandwich combined wild boar with chocolate mole sauce, sweet corn tamale, caramelized onions, watercress salad that was scented with lime and jalapeno vinaigrette, and a fire-roasted hatch chile mayo.� Spring 2016

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Raised in a Barn: Tip Your Glass to Table 3 Restaurant Group’s Newest Event Space Written by Sarah Connell Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault Food photography by Patrick O’Conner

T

able 3 Restaurant Group’s latest venture has given new meaning to their long held philosophy that “A restaurant meal should be amongst life’s most memorable experiences.” The Barn at Wight Farm aims to lend casual elegance to celebratory gatherings of all varieties in the quaint town of Sturbridge. Located in the heart of Massachusetts, The Barn offers both convenience and wide appeal to city slickers and country folks alike. Table 3 Restaurant Group’s General Manager Dan Gonya assures prospective guests, “You can expect a relaxed venue when you come to The Barn, but don’t expect to find any hay on the floor.”

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Chef Tony Pitts


The Barn boasts a beautiful interior, including a rustic bar con-

The Barn offers excellent acoustics and versatile furnishings

structed from reclaimed wood. Hand-painted signs that adorn the

for any special occasion or professional gathering. Table 3 has

post-and-beam interior were inspired by vintage finds at the re-

learned a thing or two about managing sound after years of ex-

nowned Brimfield Flea Market. Beautiful canvas prints from a local

perience in their beloved flagship restaurant, Cedar Street Grille,

photographer emanate depth and texture throughout the space.

which opened in 2010. Conscious decisions about carpeting and

And, you can’t miss the gorgeous fire pit on the outdoor patio,

partition design guarantee comfortable noise levels for parties

beckoning guests for some fresh New England air.

both big and small. Bridal parties should take advantage of the opulent Bridal Suite,

“A restaurant meal should be amongst life’s most memorable experiences.”

complete with a private bath. Exceptional service is the norm at any Table 3 establishment, but The Barn offers a whole new level of hospitality for brides on their special day. The Barn’s proximity to other Table 3 restaurants (the aforementioned Cedar Street Grille as well as Avellino, and The Duck), offering range and flexibility for couples planning rehearsal dinners and other wedding-weekend events in addition to the reception. Gonya reminds us that guest

Under the direction of Chef Tony Pitts, The Barn promises inno-

loyalty is something he would like to earn and he will never make

vative cuisine and creative preparation that begins with high-qual-

the presumption that customers are satisfied until he has done ev-

ity, fresh ingredients. He says, “The food is the star of the show;

erything in his power to guarantee their best possible experience.

this is not banquet food.” A diverse range of plated entrees are

With ample parking and comfortable seating for up to

available for weddings and events, and carving stations feature

175guests, The Barn is sure to find its way onto your social calen-

options such as prime rib, tenderloin, suckling pig, and lamb. No-

dar in 2016. Keep an eye out for upcoming events that will include

table dishes include the Surf & Turf, a petit filet and stuffed shrimp

live music and dancing in Table 3 Restaurant Group’s astonishing

with lobster cream sauce; the Tuna Steak with avocado crème

new showplace.

fraîche; and the Eggplant Rollatini composed of thinly sliced egg-

The Barn at Wight Farm is located at 420 Main Street in

plant, ricotta, mozzarella, parmesan, parsley, and roasted tomato

Sturbridge, MA. Inquire about private events at 774.241.8450.

sauce.

www.T3Chefs.com.

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The Shrine Welcomes Pilgrims Year Round

Gift Shop open 7 days, 10-5 Free Icon Exhibit Located in Store www.StAnneStPat.org St. Anne Shrine 16 Church Street Fiskdale, Massachusetts 01518 Telephone 508 347-7338

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BEST in LOCAL SODAS

Yacht Club Bottling Builds on a Century of Tradition Written by Daniel Lieberman Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Now in its hundredth year, Yacht Club has been named the Official Soda of Rhode Island by the state legislature. Rhode Island Governor Gina Raimundo visited the company in their Centerdale, Rhode Island facility this year to recognize Yacht Club’s centennial. The story began when the Sharpe family came to Rhode Island from England in 1915 and began producing Yacht Club sodas in the house next door to the current building, erected in 1923. A well on the property, dug in the 1920s, is the source of Yacht Club’s water, which absorbs carbonation beautifully at room temperature without adding salt, making it ideal for high-quality sodas.

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John Sgambato, grandfather of John and Michael, the current owners, came to work for the Sharpe family in 1935. He became a salesman and worked his way up to managing the company in the 1950s. John purchased Yacht Club from the Sharpe family in 1960, in partnership with his nineteen year-old son, Bill. Bill’s sons grew up in the business, and John has been running it for about 10 years. He enjoys taking on new challenges, like bringing Yacht Club into the social media age and visiting farmers markets and festivals around Rhode Island to meet customers and test new products. He says, “We come to people instead of people coming to us.” Above all John strives to maintain and improve Yacht Club’s products. One way that plays out is a constant search for all-natural, high-quality ingredients and flavors. The cocktail boom of the last decade or so led to the re-introduction of Yacht Club’s Ginger Beer, which had been dropped from the line because it had nobody was buying it. All-natural Yacht Club Ginger Beer turns out to be perfect in newly-revived classics like the Moscow Mule, and the Dark and Stormy. Natural grapefruit and lemon sodas have also found favor as mixers, and John says that “Yacht Club Crème Soda goes great with bourbon.” John mixes the flavors for all of the company’s products. Yacht Club sources most of its flavors from three steady suppliers, but John tastes samples from other flavor houses regularly to see if something new and different might make a great product or improve on a current offering. John says he’s “fooling around” with three or four formulas for future products right now (November 2015), and there’ll be at least one new flavor in the spring and one in the summer of 2016. Yacht Club may join the industry trend of producing seasonal and limited release flavors, too. When John starts working on something new, he’ll make up a batch and run it by the family. If they like it, he’ll tinker with it until he considers it perfect. Next he takes the new soda on the road and tries it out with bartenders and chefs. The farmers markets and festivals that Yacht Club attends are perfect places to audition new products as well. John says it takes eight months to a year to bring a new flavor of Yacht Club soda to market. For instance, he tweaked the citric acid level in the Ginger Beer over and over again for the better part of a year before he was finally happy with the formula and brought it out in 2011.

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What else is on the horizon for Yacht Club? They’re installing new bottling equipment with an eye to expanding production and rebuilding a vintage 1948 bottle-washing machine that is “basically irreplaceable.” High-quality glass bottles, with distinctive labels featuring Rhode Island symbols and historical references, come from an Owens-Illinois factory in Canada, which ensures a steady supply for Yacht Club as it continues to grow and develop new products for its second century. The Yacht Club Bottling Works Factory Store is open Monday-Tuesday

8:00am-5:00pm,

Wednesday-Fri-

day 8:00am-6:00pm, and Saturday 8:00am-3:00pm. Call

them

at

401-231-9290

or

email

info@yachtclubsoda.com.

John, Bill and Michael Sgambato

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BEST in LOCAL SODAS

Maine Root An odyssey with Maine Root and the Seiler Brothers Written by Julie Grady Thomas Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

The best intentions, bad corporations, big soda, big corn, goodwill, and local ingredients—this is a tale of two brothers on an odyssey to do more than just make a buck and quench your thirst. Once labeled as “the Coen brothers of soda,” the Seiler brothers are two men from Maine on a mission to make your taste buds dance and the world a better place.

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Origin Story, or Your Favorite Local/National/ International/Next-Door Soda Guys

Beer and Cola. There’s Pumpkin Pie (seasonal, of course), the

As seen on Food Network’s Road Tasted, PBS’ Farmer Almanac

does it begin? Mark, again, wowed with the glamour.

TV, and Rachel Ray’s Tasty Travels—not to mention the Austin City Limits Music Festival as the exclusive supplier, for four years running—Maine Root is a small shop with national appeal, international even. Its products are being sold from New England to Dubai all the way to Hong Kong.

Ginger Brew, Maple Lemonade, Blueberry and more. So where “We usually have a customer that says that they will buy it when we make it,” he says. It’s that simple, which is actually in tune with their entire philosophy anyway. Coming up with a shelf-ready flavors is a bit backwards. “We

“It makes me say ‘Holy s***’ when I say it out loud,” admits Mark

start with a gold standard: top ingredients, highest quality. Then

Seiler, one half of the Seiler brothers and president of Maine Root.

we back into it—what can a customer afford, what can we afford,

“I saw it getting this big and bigger. I thought it would take me two

what will retailers want? We use the real thing so we can be very

or three years—it has taken me ten.”

proud of every product.”

With a background in software, Mark wasn’t immediately equipped for the soda industry. There was a learning curve. “A lot of people in our situation don’t want to go through the pain of bringing a product through to distribution. They hire other

Does Mark play favorites? “Choosing a favorite soda? It’s like picking a favorite kid. They all have their different, cool qualities. This minute, maybe it’s Blueberry. But our most popular is the Ginger Brew.”

people to run their company for them, and they can lose sight of

Perhaps this is due in part to the recent Moscow Mule cocktail

their original goals,” Mark discloses as if he had seen it happen

craze that’s come back to haunt us, all the way from the 1970s.

before.

Not for the fainthearted, this nonalcoholic ginger brew is so strong

“We’re in it for the long haul. It’s easier now, but I wouldn’t call it

and spicy it spurred angry emails from shocked customers when

easy. You get on a plane. Live in a motel. Do your best to sell your

it was first released.

product to a distributor.”

Going Mainstream, or Bennington College’s Good Decision

In spite of that glamour, things started small, at the all-natural, organic Flatbread Pizza Co. in Portland, Maine. Matthew Seiler— the other half of the Seiler brother duo—was working as a waiter when he was inspired by the terrible root beer he was serving to customers. Compelled to create an alternative, Matthew’s concoction slowly took over. First sold exclusively at the restaurant, then in Portland, then throughout Maine, and the rest is history, or an origin story.

“We want to be the most environmentally-friendly, socially-conscious soda company on the planet,” states Mark. That’s some statement. Have the Seiler brothers bitten off more than they can chew? “I don’t know, did we? I do know that we don’t have investors, that we’re running the show. We’re making the calls, we grow when we want, at our own pace.”

Inspiration, or Does Everything Taste Good as a Soda?

Seiler brothers, you’ll have to have a real understanding of the

Maine Root has some pretty exclusive flavors—it’s not just Root

international sugar trade, Big Corn, and some typical problems

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In order to truly understand the groundbreaking work of the


facing developing economies that are reliant on agriculture. This isn’t The Economist, so for the abridged version, see the sidebar. For the one-liner, just know that using natural ingredients can cost more because of how they’re harvested, where they come from, and who’s doing business there. For example, farm equipment can be decades old, and say a tractor from the 1940s breaks down 20 hours into harvesting. After 24 hours, harvested sugar crops begin to ferment. The entire crop can be in jeopardy, not to mention livelihoods. When Maine Root uses Fair Trade wherever possible (i.e., every product that uses sugar, so no diet drinks), it’s helping to ensure that the farms they work with have the opportunity to advance their technology, make wise investments, avoid illegal trade, and make sure that transactions are at market price and up to regulation. Plus, consumers can be assured that fields aren’t getting covered in pesticides. “It’s not just bulls***. It’s not just marketing. We bought machinery and went down there and helped,” Mark says, setting things straight. “Fair Trade is doing a great job with our investment.” And the Seiler brothers want to pass that on to us. “We’re trying to make a difference out there,” he says, and lucky for Maine Root, everyone’s paying attention now. Mainstream is where it’s at. What would happen if McDonald’s called and wanted you to outfit their beverages? Mark’s answer: “It would be interesting, but great. We’re small, so we’d have to plan ahead, get lots of sugar, but we could do that and it would be good. We want [mainstream], we want to get better products to more people. That’s what we like to see. We don’t want to exclude anyone.” At Bennington College in Vermont, the 600-plus student body rallied to change beverage suppliers from Coke to Maine Root. “It’s not a fair fight; Coke has the ability to come in and give millions and millions of dollars to get exclusive rights at a university. At a place like Bennington, students have more power; they wanted to know where their money was being spent or what it was being spent on.” And they didn’t like their money being spent on ingredients that didn’t have their best interests at heart, like high fructose corn syrup.

Epilogue or Final Words of Wisdom When asked if there was anything else he wanted to say to foodies in New England, he paused. Then his vacillation broke into zeal and he said, “Get out. Enjoy your life. Exercise. Physical activity is what we want to promote. Do something that gets your heart pumping.” For more information on Maine Root and where to purchase its sodas, visit www.maineroot.com.

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BEST in LOCAL SODAS

Rookie’s Root Beer Beloved in Burlington Written by Briana Palma Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

On Saturday mornings in Burlington, Vermont, many people swap the traditional cup of hot coffee for a mug of ice-cold soda. This is not any ordinary soda, though; it’s Rookie’s Root Beer, which local couple Dave and Jenny Rooke have been making out of their home for the last 10 years. With all-natural ingredients and super friendly service, they’ve developed a loyal following that seeks them out every weekend at the Burlington and Shelburne farmers markets.

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“Rookie’s is placed at the most prominent craft beer bars in Vermont,” says Ryan Chaffin, director of marketing at Farrell Distributing, the Rookes’ distributor since April 2014. “It’s on draft at some of our local breweries as a non-alcoholic option. It’s at family restaurants. It’s at fine dining. It’s even on draft at a couple local delis where folks can get a sandwich and a pint of Rookie’s to go.” Over the years, so many Vermonters have fallen in love with During the week, the two spend their time making batches of

Rookie’s because, unlike its mass-produced counterparts, it’s free

soda in their one-car-garage-turned-brewery. They craft the root

from any of the “bad stuff” and has a more sophisticated flavor

beer 500 gallons at a time, while their specialty flavors, including

profile.

ginger beer, orange cream, and seasonal fruit sodas, are prepared

“You’re going to taste licorice and wintergreen and the spici-

in five-gallon batches. With all of their products, Dave and Jenny

ness of sassafras and vanilla and molasses,” Dave says, explain-

are committed to using the best ingredients they can find.

ing that his root beer has converted many non-soda-drinkers.

“Simplicity is what makes all our sodas shine,” Dave says. “We

“Our soda doesn’t have the burn. It’s very, very smooth. Some-

don’t blur the lines with any preservatives or caffeine or colors. We

times people come to the farmers market and they’ll say, ‘No, I

use all natural ingredients that come from the earth.”

don’t drink soda,’ but others in their group will get some. Nine

Fruit from local farms goes into the seasonal sodas while more exotic ingredients, like vanilla from Madagascar and raw cane sug-

times out of ten they’ll take a sip and say, ‘Wow, that’s not like any other soda I’ve had.’”

ar from Malawi, are part of their secret root beer recipe. The latter

At the markets, Dave and Jenny serve their soda straight up but

takes two days to make as they concoct a sort of tea, sweeten it,

also attract dessert lovers with ice-cream topped floats and the

and then carbonate it. From there, it’s put into kegs and hauled to

“Dark Side,” a coffee-infused root beer that comes with vanilla and

the local farmers markets and more than 50 restaurants and bars

molasses whipped cream.

across the state.

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Owner’s Jenny and Dave Rooke These winning recipes are just one part of the Rookie’s success story. The other part is all about the two people behind the business and behind those farmers market stalls every weekend. “It’s hard to explain, but it’s something about them,” Chaffin remarks. “When you drink Rookie’s, you think of Dave’s smile and you think of Jenny’s light. They’re just so loved.” And it’s no coincidence, as the two always make time for their customers, who, in turn, can pledge their loyalty by joining the Rookie’s “Mug Club.” (Members buy a branded mug and get discounted drinks each time they bring it.) “The farmers market is about doing business but it’s also about the people,” Dave stresses. “We’ll have a line 30 deep at our booth and if somebody wants to talk to me, I “Dark Side”, a coffee-infused root beer

talk to them. We make sure that’s first – talking to people and answering their questions and building more friendships.” He continues, “We just enjoy it so much. We enjoy seeing our awesome, loyal customers and being able to share what we do with them.” You can find Dave and Jenny Rooke’s handcrafted sodas at the Burlington and Shelburne farmers market during the warm weather months. For more information, see Rookie’s Root Beer on Facebook and Twitter @rookiesrootbeer.

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Do You Love Coffee?

Written by Di Marie Mariani Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

From Bali, to The Berkshires, to Boston, to your business, or to your home for that matter, Barrington Coffee Roasting Company (BCRC) of Lee, Massachusetts brings you exquisite coffee from around the globe right to your cup. Along with Gregg Charboneau, Barth Anderson is the co-founder and co-owner of the BCRC Roastery. He answered the first question of the interview with a question of his own, “Do you love coffee?�

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It may not be an age-old question, but the cultivation of the coffee bean dates all the way back to Ethiopia and India during the late 1500s. And here we are in America, in 2016, 400-plus years later. So the answer is—you got it—yes, we love coffee. We’re practically in love with coffee. BCRC knows this and offers a way for you to augment that love with its signature Cupping Class. According to Anderson, it’s the sight, the smell and the taste combined that form the real critical coffee lover in us, which is something he knows from his personal experiences and interactions with the bean farmers and the business owners, with the folks who live and sightsee over in The Berkshires, and with the foodies on the streets of Boston. Even so, he exuberantly expressed how much more goes into it; that it’s a coffee taster’s own lifelong memories and wonderful experiences that deceptively, almost foolishly, trick us into what we think is “loving” our cup of coffee. Cue the cupping classes held at the BCRC Roastery in Lee, and the tastings at Anderson’s two shops in Boston. At the Roastery, you’re invited to roast a batch of coffee next to the professional Roasters and learn how to “cup” coffee— the Roasters’ trade standard method for evaluating coffee quality.

“Boston Bean Green Beans I love Java sweet and hot Whoops, Mr. Moto, I’m a coffee pot Shoot me the pot and I’ll pour me a shot A cup, a cup, a cup, Yeah” - Java Jive by Milton Drake (1940)

continued on page 98

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BCRC Roastery owner’s Barth Anderson and Gregg Charboneau And quality you shall receive when you imbibe a “beautiful,

and in the shops, with the businesses that want to learn from

thoughtful, cup of coffee” that is handcrafted at the Roastery.

them, and with the communities both nearby and far from from the

Roasters have been skillfully procuring coffee since 1993, adopt-

picturesque woods of Lee.

ing the name of their Roastery from their first location, which was in Great Barrington, MA. You won’t be able to find a list of ingredients anywhere, but rather one ingredient: coffee. Simple, clean, roasted-to-order coffee. The best quality assurance just might be that BCRC deals with coffee farms and their farmers personally. Anderson journeys around the world to work directly on a one-to-one basis with the

Make friends. Cultivate relationships. Make the perfect cup of coffee. Memories and macchiatos await. For more information on Barrington Coffee Roasting Company’s Cupping Class, visit www.barringtoncoffee.com, or send an email to coffee@barrington.com. The Roastery is located at 165 Quarry Hill Road, Lee, Massachusetts, 01238; Tel. 413.243.3008.

farmers and families who provide the beans. “It is not just dealing

Barrington Coffee Roasting Company’s café/retail shop has

with people directly. It is experiencing the culture, and to expect

two locations. Fort Point Café, 346 Congress Street, Boston, MA,

and acquire quality coffee,” he declared.

02210; Tel. 857.277.1914; Open from Monday through Friday,

His business—his coffee—is about relationships; relationships with the workers on the farms, with the workers at the Roastery

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7am to 7pm. Back Bay Café, 303 Newbury Street, Boston, MA, 02115; Tel. 857.250.2780; Open everyday from 7am to 7pm.


Healthy at Home

Recipes by Elaine Pusateri Cowan Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

www.facebook.com/ElainesLife Elaine strives to create beauty everyday. Whether she’s designing interiors, preparing appetizers or entrees and even refinishing furniture or making art, she always looks to satiate her appetite for all things artistic. As an artist and administrator of the arts, foodie, interior designer and gardener, Elaine believes in the quality of sustainable life, not just living well. Her strong sense of duty to integrate such sustainability into every aspect of domestic life begins with perhaps the most basic of all elements: diet. She believes that anyone with a stocked pantry and local produce can whip up quick, fresh and delicious meals every night.

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An Ode to the Spanglish Sandwich I am a big fan of comedy and a bigger fan of food so I’m delighted when the two are united. In keeping with the theme of sandwiches, I thought I would pay homage to one of my favorite cinematic food scenes: a “Spangwich” created by John Clasky, a chef played by Adam Sandler in the 2004 movie Spanglish. As it turns out, I am not the only “clever” person to create the portmanteau Spangwich as great foodie minds tend to think alike. I’ll try to make up for my lack of originality in naming the sandwich in the making of my version. The Spangwich is basically an amped up BLT with Monterey jack cheese and a sunny-side-up-egg. It is simple and scrumptious with just a few steps and a few ingredients. So why mess around with it? Because it is fun to play with your food and don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. I’ve changed the anatomy of the sandwich slightly by modifying the ingredients, beginning with what makes a sandwich a sandwich…. the bread. I’ve included a recipe for a soft whole wheat loaf - with a little bit of sourdough starter mixed in for a subtle tanginess. I love a crusty bread but not for this sandwich; the bacon provides enough of a crispy crunch, it doesn’t need any competition. Next I’ll whip up some mayonnaise, *double points if you get the pun. The mayo can be made more than a week ahead and you’ll know exactly what’s in it: egg yolks, Dijon mustard, oil, lemon, salt & pepper, and you’ll get *triple points for using organic, local eggs. Not only is this mayonnaise a spread, but it doubles as a dip for chips or tender artichoke leaves. Come on, it’s “Healthy at Home” I have to throw a healthy curveball in here somewhere, especially after you see what I do with the bacon. Enter steamed artichokes and twelve health benefits: antioxidants, dietary fiber, digestive support, cholesterol, brain and cognitive benefits, liver health, cancer prevention, folic acid, blood pressure, bone health, metabolic function and protection against free radicals and the perfect accompaniment to a sandwich. Remember, when making artichokes, trim only right before you are ready to use them. Artichokes discolor quickly. Also, when choosing artichokes, be sure to avoid discolored-brownish ones as this usually means they are old. Finally, the best and baddest for last. Bacon. There is nothing else like it. Smoky, salty, and crispy. Peppery and sweet--cue the record needle scratching across record sound effect. Yes, peppery and sweet. I add a little bit of brown sugar and black pepper to the bacon before baking it. You’re welcome. Unlike the mayonnaise, it’s better not to make the bacon ahead of time. So, put your forks down. This is an all hands on deck version of Healthy at Home. Enjoy! *there aren’t any points. Just pointers.

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The Bread Ingredients: 2 1/2 cup warm water 2 tbsp. honey 1 packet of fast acting yeast *1/4 cup sourdough starter King Arthur Flour: 1 1/2 cups whole-wheat-flour 1 1/2 cups white-whole-wheat-flour 1 tsp kosher salt Olive oil *there are a million and one videos and blog entries on sourdough they are all basically the same principletry one out! I use a Kitchenaid Mixer with a dough hook to make bread. If you don’t have one, no worries--you’ll get a little work out by kneading the bread. I suggest a bowl 2 sizes bigger than what you think you’ll need.

Directions: 1. 2 1/2 cups warm water into a 4-cup measuring cup or a bowl. 2. Add honey and stir until it dissolves. 3. Add 1/4 cup sourdough stir gently. 4. Add packet of yeast, then set aside until the yeast starts to foam. 5. In the mixer: combine both the whole wheat and the white whole wheat and the salt- let combine really well- about 3 minutes. 6. Add the salt. 7. While the mixer is still running, slowly add the wet ingredients. 8. You’ll see the dough start to form-when it has taken its shape as one blob, drizzle a little olive oil while it’s still turning to “clean” the bowl. 9. Shape into a ball and place in an oiled bowl and cover with a clean towel- allowing it to rise--a few hours is best. 10. Knock down your risen dough, shape and then allow to rise again before baking. 11. Bake at 375 for 25-35 minutes.

Steamed Artichokes Ingredients: 4 Artichokes 1-2 lemons Directions: 1. Wash and trim artichokes. 2. Pull out the choke or leave it in and pull it out when it’s soft. 3. Quarter a couple of lemons-you may use the one that you juiced for the mayonnaise. 4. Steam for 20-25 minutes-no longer. 5. Serve whole or cut in half, pull out the choke and top with a dollop of the mayonnaise.

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Mayonnaise Ingredients: 3 egg yolks 1 tbsp. Dijon Mustard 1/2 cup canola oil 1/2 cup safflower oil 1 lemon-juiced 1 dash salt 1 dash pepper Directions: Again, you can use a whisk or a mixer with a whisk. You never stop whisking! Prep your ingredients ahead of time. 1. Whisk 3 egg yolks until smooth. 2. Add 1 teaspoon of Dijon Mustard whisking all the while. 3. Combine the oils ahead of time and GRADUALLY add them while whisking. 4. Add the juice of 1 lemon while whisking. 5. Add salt and pepper while whisking

Peppered Candied Bacon Ingredients: Parchment paper 1 lb. of bacon 1/4 cup brown sugar A few pinches of black pepper Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 375. 2. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper and put a cooling rack on top of it. 3. Spread out a pound of bacon-it can overlap slightly. 4. Sprinkle with brown sugar. 5. Sprinkle with black pepper. 6. Bake on the top rack for 20-35 minutes-depends on how crispy you like it.

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The Spangwich Ingredients: 4 Sandwiches 8 Slices of *Bread 1/2 Pound Monterey Jack Cheese *Mayonnaise 1 Head Butter Lettuce Tomato *Bacon 4 Eggs Directions: 1. Turn broiler on to high. 2. Slice 8 slices of the delicious bread you made yesterday-:). 3. Lay a slice or two of Monterey jack cheese over 4 slices.

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4. Place all 8 slices, including the ones with cheese, under the broiler until the cheese begins to bubble and melt. 5. The slice with the cheese is the TOP Slice. 6. Spread the homemade mayonnaise over the slices of now toast, then the lettuce then tomato, then bacon. 7.

The egg: get your skillet hot on the stove top then add a pat of butter and a drop of olive oil- crack eggs into skillet then place under the broiler until whites are completely white.

8. Slide egg onto sandwich, cover with the cheesy bread and slice in half to reveal the delicious center.


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A True Bistro

FUN FACT Did you know? That according to a recent survey by Esquire Magazine, 93% of Americans pick up and read magazines an average of 43 minutes a day.

For the freshest, most local, and most organic dining experience you can have, there’s only one place:

The Twisted Fork.

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Foodies of New England


A Warm Oasis in the Long Winter Months Written by Kelley Lynn Kassa Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

M

ore and more New Englanders flock to farmers markets for the freshest local produce and the latest in artisanal food products. Unfortunately, for many communities, farmers markets are only two-, maybe three-season happenings.

An exception to this is in Wayland, Massachusetts, where Russell’s Garden Center hosts a 10-week winter farmers market from January through March. The Wayland Winter Farmers Market is more than a few farm stands offering seasonal root vegetables—it’s in a location that nourishes your soul while you are shopping for nourishment for your body. The market takes place in Russell’s greenhouses, providing a warm, green, lush experience through the dark, cold, snowy Saturdays in winter. Unlike many weekly markets, the Wayland market makes a point of hosting different vendors throughout its season. Over the course of the 10 weeks, the market will showcase 100 vendors, offering everything from fruits and vegetables to meats, cheeses, fish, teas, honey, and more. “We’ve made it a point to diversify our market every week,” says Peg Mallet, market manager. “We want people to be excited to come every Saturday to see, try and buy produce and new products.” Just some of the vendors who participate in the market include Apex Orchards, Bug Hill Farm, C & C Lobsters & Fish, Daily Jar Juice, Dragonfly Longarm Quilting, Gay Grace Tea, Giovanna Gelato, Grillo’s Pickles, Halvah Heaven, Mycoterra Farm, Pete & Jen’s Backyard Birds, Red Fire Farm, Samira’s Homemade, Vali-

along with artisanal farm products beyond produce. The market

centi Organico, Vesta Mobile Wood-Fired Pizza, and We Grow

also offers days where visitors can meet authors, attend work-

Microgreens.

shops, and see free demonstrations.

Peg, who manages and organizes both the winter and sum-

The Wayland Winter Farmers Market is not just a shopping ex-

mer market, also arranges for some themed days, including Farm

perience. You can leave your coat in your car, enter the green-

Fiber Days, Farm Wineries Days and New England Farm Cheese

house, and bask in the warmth. Grab a cup of fresh coffee, tea,

Days. These themed Saturdays offer a mix of “regular” vendors,

or soup as you wind your way through greenery—trees, flowers, continued on page 112

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bushes—in a bleak snowy winter, it doesn’t really matter as long as it’s green. Feel free to sip your hot beverage while sitting on a bench amidst Russell’s plants and trees. Wander through the greenhouse sampling homemade marshmallow’s from Sweet Lydia’s, smell some tropical tea blends from The Herb Lyceum, and expand your palette tasting a fabulous smoked salmon pate from The Amazing Smokehouse.

On any given Saturday you

can purchase your eggs, produce, meat, fish, cheese, and a variety of treats to bring home. “It’s like a party every week here,” adds Peg. “Last winter’s snow made people feel so isolated. People really enjoyed getting out of their houses and visiting the market each week. And despite the weather, we did not have to cancel a single market this past winter.” The 2016 Wayland Winter Farmers Market will offer the community both more of the same—and something new.

Peg will

continue to make sure there’s a rotation of vendors, so that visitors can see something new each week. Whether you are looking for eggs, parsnips, grass-fed beef, local fish, exotic hummus, gourmet raviolis, or just an afternoon sipping hot tea in a warm greenhouse, the Wayland Winter Farmers Market has it. “One of our challenges has been lettuce,” adds Peg. “Lettuce usually sells out within the first 15 – 20 minutes every Saturday. So this winter, we’ll be sure to have more lettuce.” Do your weekly shopping there, or just come by to visit with the community. Think of the market as your oasis in the cold winter.

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Sweet Sensations

A Very Special Tiramisu

I

enjoy eating. I especially enjoy eating dessert. I really love it when I get a taste that I wasn’t expecting or the rare occasion that an ingredient substitution inadvertently lends itself to bettering an already great dish. That surprise is the exact feeling this tiramisu will give you, and when you realize that it contains a

substituted ingredient, your taste buds may never trust you again. Tiramisu is one of my all-time favorite desserts. There’s something about the richness Written by Lina Bifano Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

of the cream combined with an airy espresso-drenched cookie that just makes my mouth water. By nature, I’m a traditionalist when it comes to food. As with any cook, however, you need to be able to substitute. Ingredients aren’t always easily attainable and as much as I’d like to stick to my tried-and-true recipes, I often have to make a

An avid cook and mother of two, Lina Bifano values the importance of home-cooked meals for her family. She understands that time constraints and children’s schedules can often dictate how a family eats—so she develops strategies that allow her family to still enjoy delicious, healthy meals, even at a moment’s notice. Her travels throughout Italy and France have been the inspiration for all of her recipes and Lina has incorporated those ideas into modern, familyfriendly fare. The desserts she creates— with sophisticated flavors that can be easily achieved by anyone—give even the novice home cook the opportunity to wow family and friends alike.

substitution for what‘s missing and make adjustments to the recipe as well. I also have to wait for my kids to go to sleep before I can start making any dessert that either A. has to be given to someone and therefore can’t be poked, sampled, or picked at before its grand presentation, or B. contains ingredients that aren’t good for kids, like espresso or liqueurs. Tiramisu is a dessert that I can only make when the kids aren’t around. On this one occasion, however, I realized too late that I wouldn’t have enough espresso to make a full pot to dip the ladyfingers in and would have to come up with something. I could have used regular coffee, but worried that it would taste too watered down. I needed that true espresso taste. After a frantic search of my kitchen, I came across my all-time favorite soda… The Manhattan Special.™ I’m not a big soda drinker, but I am an espresso drinker. The Manhattan Special™ is a unique soda that brings together the deep espresso flavor that I love so much and successfully marries it with a smooth cola that almost tastes malty. It’s the type of soda that makes a great adult ice cream float, without being too sweet. It was all I had and it turned out to be one of those moments of brilliance when a substitution creates a new twist on an old favorite. If you can’t find it in local stores, you can order it online. The resulting dessert wasn’t an exact replica of my tiramisu recipe. Rather, it became its own creation. There’s definitely a difference in taste, but it’s a welcomed change. I even continued the fun by packaging it in individual push-pops and the adults were wild about it -- especially when they found out that there was soda instead of espresso in the recipe. My last-minute substitution created an entertaining new way to enjoy a classic treat! If you don’t have any push-pops on hand, feel free to use a parfait glass, a martini glass, or even a wine glass. Enjoy!

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A Very Special Tiramisu Ingredients: 3 Cups of Manhattan Special™ cola 1/2 Tbsp. Instant espresso powder 6 Egg yolks 2 1/2 8oz. Tubs of mascarpone cheese 1/4 Cup of sugar 1 Cup of heavy cream 2 Tbsp. of confectioner’s sugar 1 Tbsp. of vanilla extract 1-2 Packages of ladyfingers (depending on how many individual portions you will make) Cocoa powder, unsweetened, for dusting Directions: 1. Mix the Manhattan Special™ cola and the espresso powder together and set aside. 2. Whip the egg yolks and sugar over a double boiler until the mixture is thick and lemon yellow. Usually between 5-10 minutes. You’ll know it’s done when it gets too difficult to whip by hand and takes on the consistency of a light pudding. You can also use an electric hand mixer here, but be mindful when working over a stove. 3. Once your eggs have reached their desired consistency, remove them from the heat source and whisk in the mascarpone, removing all lumps while working. Set aside your mascarpone pudding to cool. 4. In a chilled bowl, begin to whip the heavy cream. When soft peaks form, add the vanilla and confectioner’s sugar and continue to whip until you reach the stiff peak stage. Do not over mix. Over mixing will create a watery mess and will ruin the dessert. Gently fold 1/3 of the whipped cream into the mascarpone pudding until it’s incorpo rated and smooth. Fill a piping bag with the pudding and another with the rest of the whipped cream. 5. Fill the bottom of a bowl or deep container with the Manhattan Special™ soda. Dip the ladyfingers into the mixture, quickly turning them, so as not to oversaturate. They should have a crunch to them still. Push the ladyfinger into the bottom of the push pops or whatever vessel you’re using, creating your first layer. Top that with a layer of the Mascarpone pudding and sprinkle with good cocoa powder. Repeat until you reach the top layer, leaving room for some whipped cream. Dust the top of the whipped cream layer with some cocoa to finish. 7. Let these set in the refrigerator overnight before serving.

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Brew Review

Season of Renewal I love honey. It makes me think of Spring, the season of renewal. Fermenting sugars into liquid form to make beer and ale could be as old as the pyramids. But, surprisingly few commercially-available beers are made with that most ancient of sweeteners: honey. To be sure, mead, celebrated as an intoxicating beverage since the Dark Ages is made with honey, but it is not beer or ale. Dupont’s Biere de Miel and Wolaver’s Wildflower Wheat are true exceptions. Both offerings are seasonal and best enjoyed in the Spring and Summer when the sun is warm and the breezes are redolent with flowers and the buzzing of bees. The Dupont is a Saison or Farmhouse-style ale from Belgium. Wolaver’s is a pale wheat ale from Vermont. Both are made with honey and both have a creamy sweetness balanced

Written by Matt Jones

by spices, citrus, and floral undertones. Both offerings are unfiltered and each is del-

Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

icately-carbonated with bright, small almost champagne-like bubbles. The heads are similar, initially a finger’s thickness but lacey and thin within a few minutes. The colors of each tend toward hazy amber. From here they start to differ. The first thing I notice is Dupont’s nose, which is a complex swirl of floral, citrus,

Matthew Jones is a curmudgeon

and honey notes, and an elusive smell not unlike breaking open a new loaf of sour-

and a crusader for a world of

dough bread. First taste is an eye-opening punch of flavors, all perfectly married to the

quality and originality. He has spent the last 25 years restoring books, documents maps and globes. When he is not teaching Japanese martial arts or climbing mountains,

nose. Surprising hints of lemon grass, orange, coriander, and ginger are woven into the creamy Belgian yeast and Noble hops to deliver a crisp, effervescent, alcohol-forward ale. Wonderful and heady stuff! The honey notes linger in your nose and on your palate, wistful and a bit lurid, but not as sweet as you’d expect, with just a hint of bitterness. Excellent to the last drop Beware the 8% alcohol content by volume; this ale is serious! Wolaver’s nose is a storm of

chances are he will be testing out

wildflowers and honey. Chamo-

the merits of best brewed or

mile flowers come right out and

distilled libations.

say hello. The smell is summery, restorative, and hedonistic. The honey comes into the first taste quicker than the Dupont. I could write an entire series on tasting honey alone, but suffice it to say, this is WILD honey, and not your commercially available clover flower honey bear. These bees have been busy and visited every type of flower in the field to lend depth and complexity to the nectar in this ale.

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Wolaver’s is sweet, creamy, bready, and floral and imparts a fine

Enjoy either of these splendid offerings with a bit of salty ham

tea-like finish. At 4.25% ABV you can sit down for a few of these.

based charcuterie, some bright aged Vermont cheddar, a crucolo,

The bubbles are smallish and the brew is refreshing, but I particu-

or ballyshannon, and simple crackers.

larly like Wolaver’s with food.

Cheers everyone.

Spring 2016

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at Tantasqua The Cornerstone CafĂŠ is the student run restaurant at Tantasqua Regional High School located at 319 Brookfield Road, Fiskdale, MA Open: Wednesday, Thursday and Friday when school is in session, 10:30 am - 12:30 pm Our menu selections change weekly and can be found on the school website at www.tantasqua.org Choose Cornerstone CafĂŠ from the left side menu We can also be reached by calling 508-347-9301 ext. 0915 or ext. 5161

Join us for lunch and let us treat your taste buds!


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SEE OUR EXTENSIVE INVENTORY! For 10 years we have put the customer first and we will continue to do so!


Whiskey

Under Loch & Key

Written by Ryan Maloney Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

Ryan Maloney has over twenty five years experience in the spirits industry. He is the founder of The Loch & K(e)y Society and the creator of www.lochandkey.com a forum based whisk(e)y website. Ryan was just inducted into the Keeper of the Quaich Society in Scotland, one of whisky’s highest honors. He can also be heard on WCRN AM830 on his radio show “It’s The Liquor Talking”. However, Ryan is most recognized as the owner of Julio’s Liquors in Westborough MA, where amongst other accolades he has been three times awarded “Retailer of the Year”.

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Foodies of New England


“Age is just a number” ~ Anonymous 50 yr old

As you read this, I’ve just turned 50 and I’m starting to understand that old saying. But as I drink my whiskies I’ve also realized that like me, good whisky is not necessarily tied to a specific age. Distillers and blenders have also embraced that idea as well, turning out “Non-Age Statement” (NAS) expressions of whisky. Some of these new products have come about out of necessity; some distilleries just do not have enough older whiskies to supply age-stated expressions. Others have been creating different flavor profiles that lend themselves to using various aged whiskies. And yes, some have been made in order to turn a quick dollar. So, like all other whiskies, it is a buyer beware world and it is up to guys like me to help you get the best bang for your buck. With that being said, I’d like to introduce to you three of my favorite NAS whiskies. The first NAS comes from a company I’ve admired since their inception. Compass Box Whisky Company under the direction of John Glaser has been pushing the envelope of ways to get different flavors out of whisky, and The Spice Tree whisky is no exception. continued on page 124

Spring 2016

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The first expression of this whisky, launched in 2005, was forced off the market by the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA) because Compass Box floated French oak staves inside an American oak barrel. This type of process was not deemed traditional whisky-making by the SWA. Rather than face a legal battle as a very young company, the product was withdrawn from the market. Not to be defeated, John relaunched The Spice Tree in 2009 using a different method that the SWA could not take issue with. The whisky is made up of 100% malt whisky aged 10-12 years in refill and first fill bourbon barrels from Clynelish, Teaninich, and Dalhuaine distilleries. Then 80% of that blend is re-racked into barrels with heavily charred French heads and American oak staves for up to 3 years then bottled at 92 proof with no chill filtration. The nose on this whisky is big! Aromas of ginger, clove, and vanilla greet you right up front, but there are also hints of cinnamon and a little chocolate present. As you sip this whisky it is apparent that it is aptly named; flavors of white pepper mixed with sweetness and a dry oakiness abound. The finish is long and that spiced chocolate appears again, a very nice after dinner sipper—or have some fun and mix it in a cocktail. Next up is a whisky from the island of Orkney about 10 miles off the coast; Highland Park is about as far north for a distillery as you can get in Scotland. It was settled by the Vikings during the 8th century, and it still has strong cultural links with Norway. My NAS whisky from them is Dark Origins, an homage to Magnus Eunson, the man credited with the foundation of the distillery. Mr. Eunson was a Beadle (ceremonial officer of a church) by day and a smuggler by night (look him up: there are some very interesting stories about his exploits). The Dark Origins expression is a true tribute to Mr. Eunson’s rebellious spirit: mischievous and foreboding, but a guy you’d like to have as a friend. Dark Origins is 93.6 proof, un-chilled filtered and uses twice the amount of malt whisky from first filled sherry cask as Highland Park’s 12yr expression. The color of the whisky shows a rich mahogany. And on the nose, the sherry combines with undertones of fig, and a slight bit of smoke wafts around the glass. As you taste this whisky, there is certain juxtaposition occurring. On the one hand, you have chocolate and cherries’ sweetness at the beginning, but on the other, you have a young peated smokiness adding drier and spicier flavors. It all works nicely together like the perfect match of well-done campfire marshmallows. The finish is dry and lasting and the sweet smoke lingers for another sip.

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Foodies of New England


The last NAS has a maritime influence, but to be fair, I don’t think you are further than 60 miles from the coast anywhere in Scotland. Wedged into the town center of Oban is Oban Distillery, a small distillery that is big on taste. The “Little Bay” is the name of the whisky, but it is actually what “Oban” means in Gaelic. Created by two master blenders, Dr. Crow and Dr. Wilson, this expression goes though a bit of a round robin to end up in the bottle. First they start with varying ages of whisky that have matured in three kinds of casks: refilled sherry casks, refilled American bourbon casks, and refilled casks that have been fitted with new oak cask heads. The whiskies from these barrels are blended, then placed into neutral small barrels allowing the whiskies to marry and thus integrate all the flavors. Upon pouring a dram of Little Bay whisky, you’ll see the color of old gold filling your glass. The whisky is 86 proof and is the only one of the three NAS whiskies that is chill filtered, which shows itself with the whisky’s vibrant color. The nose is bright and fresh with a feeling of clean, salty air. This is followed by aromas of winter spice and orange slice candy. The whisky tastes silky smooth on the palate with flavors of honeycomb, tart Granny Smith apples, and dark fruit cake. The finish, although not long, is a combination of dried apricots, malted barley, and the slightest hint of smoke. Enjoy this whisky on its own or with a meal—I like it with a cast-iron seared steak. Go out and find one of these great NAS whiskies if you want to try something new. And remember, “There’s never a bad day for good whisk(e)y”!

Spring 2016

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Wines of Distinction

“Argentina’s Andes Mountains – High Altitude, High Praise” In wine-speak, Argentina is considered “new world”; meaning, their wines are not typically from pedigree vineyards with gobs of tradition and heritage. No, that designation is reserved for the “old world” vineyards of Europe. However, the new-world wine regions of the southern hemisphere – particularly Argentina, Chile, New Zealand, and Australia – have improved their output over the last decade. One area of improvement is with the French varietal Malbec, and one such producer of note is La Bodega de los Andes. This Malbec is quite remarkable in its comparison to more well-renowned producers such as Alamos or Altos Las Hormigas. Despite its non-reserve status, La Bodega

Written by Domenic Mercurio, Jr.

de los Andes is refined and smooth; it boasts expressive black cherry flavors, plum

Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

notes, and rustic undertones of toasted oak and mushrooms. Its velvety mouth feel is reminiscent of much more mature Bordeaux, thanks to a subdued and controlled tannic acidity resulting from the use of barrel staves that serve to absorb volatile tannins. Argentina produces many excellent examples of Malbec and the varietal has be-

Known in restaurant circles as The Wine Guy, Domenic is focused on food and wine education. Domenic’s enthusiasm and passion for food and wine, propelled him into a local TV wine education series, The Wine Guy, in which he took

come a popular red wine option in the U.S. Traditionally a blending grape from the Bordeaux region of France, Malbec has since become a primary grape of interest to winemakers in South America. Argentina leads the way in production with 76,603 acres of vineyards planted across the country, followed by France (13,097 acres), Italy, Spain, South Africa, New Zealand, and the U.S. Argentine producers have grown Malbec extensively in every wine region of the country. Today, Malbec may be found all along the Andes mountain range from Salta to Patagonia. According to www.winesofargentina.org, Mendoza is the main Malbec producer in

viewers on a tour of California and

the country with 65,730 acres, representing 85% of all Malbec vineyards. San Juan

Italy’s wine regions and historic

ranks second with 6,700 acres, followed by Patagonia (Neuquén and Río Negro) with

destinations.

2,230 acres, Salta with 1,730 acres, and La Rioja with 1,235 acres.

In addition to being the editor and publisher of Foodies of New England magazine, Dom is the host of Foodies of New England, a dynamic and educational TV show. The show

As in France, Malbec wines have Controlled Denomination of Origin (DOC) in some Argentine regions, which helps to protect the name of the area and forces winemakers to maintain the high quality of wines. The La Bodega de los Andes brand is a great example of varietal correctness; meaning its flavor profile and method of creation are consistent with typical Argentine Malbec production methods. But, what are the differences between traditional, old-world French Malbec, and

features New England’s best,

the astronomically-popular new-world version coming out of Argentina? First, let’s

award-winning chefs, and their

explore some of the factors that drive taste, color, and ultimate quality from each of

signature recipes.

these geographies. There is a dramatic difference in taste between the two regions and this is because Malbec – as a grape varietal - really demonstrates how terroir effects wine. According to winefolly.com, terroir encompasses all the regional factors that define the taste of a wine grape including sun, soil, the slanting of a hillside, proximity to a body of water, climate, weather, and altitude. Terroir effects taste before a winemaker even touches

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Foodies of New England


the grapes. An honest winemaker will gladly admit that great wine is made in the vineyard, not in the cellar. A typical Argentine Malbec will be fruit forward, plummy (much like Merlot), and show a soft, somewhat velvety mouth feel or texture. By contrast, French Malbec is more on the savory side; offering tartness, firm tannic structure, a noticeable plum flavor profile, and a note of dark fruits like blackberry. Some even offer subtleties of cured or smoked meat. Winefolly.com also mentions that Malbec, being a cousin of the famed Merlot grape, shows some similar qualities, including a thin-skin which allows for the grape to absorb and show much of the influences garnered from the terroir. Malbec is also very susceptible to rot, mold, frost damage, and insect invasion. Being delicate and temperamental, the Malbec needs lots of sun (but not too much) and a dry climate. Too much

characteristics, but still have enough acidity

Argentina in general and Mendoza, spe-

sun elevates the sugar content in the grape

to make this wine a great food accompani-

cifically, are wonderful geographies for

and makes it taste overly ripe and unstruc-

ment.

growing Malbec, and La Bodega de los An-

tured, much like the unappealing fruit-bomb wines we avoid.

In terms of the terroir, the Andes region

des is a truly fine example of what the An-

offers a nice balance of clay soil and sand.

des have to offer. Foodies of New England

Fortunately, the Andes mountains provide

Rainfall is scarce in Mendoza, but the clay

gives La Bodega de los Andes Malbec a

important altitude ideal for growing Malbec;

base allows the vines to dig deeply into the

solid 91 points – quite opulent with bramble

the cooler air makes the ripening process

soil in search of water while picking up the

and plum fruit, soft tannic mouth feel and

more manageable and allows the skins and

attributes and influences of the land’s natu-

a smooth, elegant finish bolstered by bright

flesh of the grapes to develop enough acid-

ral minerals along the way. The sand drains

cherry and mocha notes. Imported and dis-

ity to give them necessary structure and

well, allowing water to run off so as not to

tributed in New England by Global Wines,

shape. In this way, the Argentine Malbec

accumulate on or near the roots, reducing

Inc., of Framingham, Massachusetts.

grapes become fuller, riper, and show fruity

any chances of root rot.

-FNE.

Spring 2016

127


Liberating Libations

Layers of Liquid This season the Foodies theme is outrageous sandwiches and local sodas. To me a sandwich suggests layers. So, for this edition, I chose to feature a cocktail with layers and used a local soda as a mixer. Layering a cocktail can be tricky but once you master the art it is fun and looks fantastic too! To layer a cocktail you must start with the heaviest ingredient first. Each mixer, liquor, or spirit has its own specific gravity, weight, and density. Usually the more sugar in the mixer the heavier it is; the more alcohol in the mixer, the lighter it is. So use things like grenadine, Irish cream, soda, blue curaçao, or crème de anything as

Written by Adam Gerhart Photography by Scott Erb and Donna Dufault

the base for your layered cocktail. Things like gin, vodka, rum, tequila are lighter and will tend to float on top of the heavier mixers. Carefully and slowly pour the lighter spirits over the back of a spoon into the glass. This gentle procedure will allow the layers to stay separated. Sometimes it takes a little practice, so make sure you master

Adam Gerhart has been bartending since he was 17. Growing up in upstate New York along the Hudson River, he worked his way

it before you try it for your friends or customers. The most common layered shot is a B-52, named after the 70’s band The B-52s whose name refers to the B-52 bomber that dropped napalm in Vietnam. This, and the fact that all the members of the band were openly gay, inspired the flaming version of this shot in which you light the top layer. This drink is believed to be invented by bartender Peter Fich in Banff, Alberta

up from washing dishes in the res-

who named all of his new drinks after his favorite bands, songs, or albums. In a shot

taurant industry and worked in all

glass use Irish cream liquor as your first pour, then Kahlua, then float an orange liquor

positions a restaurant has to

like Gran Marnier.

offer. Adam feels that learning-bydoing is the best training method, and considers it a very big reason for his success. Making a guest’s experience memorable and giving them a quality drink is where Adam’s passion lies. Adam believes that, if he and the people around him are having fun, it’s not work. He also feels passionate about turning someone’s day around by putting exactly what they want in front of them, and creating that special drink that makes them say, “Wow.”

A common soda-layered drink is a Dark and Stormy which is ginger beer and dark rum. At the turn of the 20th century, the British Royal Navy had a large dockyard in Bermuda. Rum was very popular in the islands and some say sailors drank more rum than the water they sailed on. Gosling’s Dark rum was popular even back then and the Royal Navy had a ginger beer plant in the dockyard as well. Some think the ginger beer was used to ease the seasickness of new recruits or to ease them off the heavy rum drinking. No one really knows who created the drink but it was at a local sailor pub in Bermuda where the two ingredients were combined. The unknown sailor held up the glass with the dark rum on top of the ginger beer and said it resembles “the color of a cloud only a fool or a dead man would sail under.”

Storm Cloud In any glass Pour 5oz of Harmony Springs Ginger Beer over ice Just a tiny splash of pineapple juice Then float 1oz of AITA Root liquor and .5oz of Gosling Dark Rum Garnish with a lime wedge

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Foodies of New England


It was then named the Dark and Stormy and Gosling actually trademarked the concoction. Now, it is the official cocktail of Bermuda. To make it, pour ginger beer over ice most of the way up a highball glass and leave room for a standard 1.5 oz. pour of Gosling’s dark rum. Slowly pour the rum on top to present the cloud effect. The local soda I chose is Harmony Springs. Bottled in Ludlow, Massachusetts and established in 1908, this old fashioned brew company had the right stuff for the job. They use natural ingredients, fruit juices, pure cane sugar, non-GMO derived citric acid, and water from their spring-fed artesian aquifer four hundred feet deep in the bedrock. It’s the best water around and a standout taste that is top-shelf in my book. So after trying their gingerbBeer I realized it was perfectly-spicy enough and refreshingly-tasty enough to use in my featured cocktail. The natural taste of ginger dances on your tongue with an extra kick of spice that is especially needed when mixing with rum, in my opinion. Kudos to this company for getting it just right. Here is what I came up with….. As always Enjoy Responsibly!

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European Style Veggie Dagwood Ingredients: 2 Slices of Marble Rye Fresh Slices of Mozzarella Sliced Grape Tomatoes Red Onion slices 4 Large Basil Leaves Drizzle with Virgin Olive Oil

Advertise with Foodies of New England 508-479-1171

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Foodies of New England


Foodies of New England Spring 2016 Edition  

Foodies Magazine is a high-gloss, beautiful publication focused on the cuisine scene throughout New England, focusing on featured chefs, res...

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