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PHOTO: Dudi Hasson DRESS: Alon Livne MODEL: Anya Martirosov for MC2 MAKE UP & HAIR: Miki Buganim
Israeli F ashion 2011-20 p. 78 -7 13 9
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From your friendly on-the -co rner-retailer to e-retailer; Retail busine ss today: Challenges and success p. 30 -31
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in online Find your way to success retail business p. 38 -40
Israeli F ashion 2 011-201 Mark G 3: oldenbe rg p. 44 -47
Fashion b usiness su ccess: Have you done you r ABC's? p. 48 -50
Israeli Fas Yosef P hion 2011-2 013: eretz p . 60 -6 5
2011-2013: Israeli Fashion 6 -57 Frau Blau p. 5
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Third Floor 207 Regent Street London, W1B3HH, UK Tel.: +44 20 7193 4794 www.folitique.com PUBLISHER: Fashion Politique Ltd. Company #07918891 - Registered in England Graphic designer: Irene Dix Content editor: Alexandra Tsyliya Š All the materials of this issue of F’OLITIQUE magazine "Focus on Israel" cannot be copied, either wholly or partially, reproduced, transferred, loaded, published, distributed or otherwise used in any way without the prior written consent of Fashion Politique Ltd.
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photo by Ronen Fadida
Our extensive know-how in the fashion industry as well as study of the most advanced international practices allowed us not only to identify the most persistent in the industry problem areas and bottlenecks, but also to determine the most effective and efficient business solutions to the identified problems. Our key observation is that today there is no comprehensive international resource, which would provide information on the national fashion industries country by country, with so much needed contact information, samples of designs, analysis, advice and support. This finding became the key reason for launching F’OLITIQUE magazine: Focus on Countries – a business oriented periodical publication. This magazine is absolutely essential for the retailers to own and display in their boutiques, as a reliable source of information to customers on the currently most demanded brands. The resource will also be useful to those, who just plan to enter the world of fashion: they can find the helpful information and practical tips about fashion design in the country of interest. It may also be useful to those with a passion for fashion as a style and fashion guide to a country.
This issue concentrates on Israel, the country known for the vibrant array of emerging designers. Through the prism of fashion ambitions of Israel we reflect on problems and challenges of today’s retail and fashion industries. On the pages of this issue we are discussing the new ways of work in the digital era and presenting experts' advice and recommendations. We believe that it will be a useful source of valuable information for retailers, brands, manufacturers, designers as well as consumers. Retailers will be able to find brands for collaboration, brands - excellent possibilities for sales, top brands - perspective emerging design professionals, offering them employment or internship opportunities, and just every F’OLITIQUE lover will be able to find style and fashion information from Israel. This all is made possible thanks to platform Allée Germaine, which has extensive experience of convening fashion and retail professionals around these and other topics of interest, while F’OLITIQUE Magazine Focus on Countries is extension and strengthening of this success.
With love,
Anna la Germaine Director Fashion Politique Ltd.
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www.folitique.com
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PHOTO: Ronen Fadida STYLE: Anna la Germaine MAKE UP: Ilana Pichhadze HAIR: Dan Michaeli TEAM: Arina Shalina, Michelle Halpern, Daina Ryan Reed, Inbar Shapira, Nili Ben Simon MODEL: Natalia for MC2 Tel Aviv DRESS: NIHILO by Nili Ben Simon NECKLACE: MeDusa SHOES: Imelda On the right: DRESS: Kim Dror CLUTCH: Yael Reshef
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Frau Blau: Helena Blaunstein and Philip Blau Frau Blau was founded in 2002 by designer couple Helena Blaunstein and Philip Blau. The concept of the label is quality fashion with a humorous twist. Their overall vision stems from a decision to enjoy every stage in their creations, and from a whimsical and positive outlook on life. Due to the fact that each of them comes from a different background in design, their interdisciplinary fusion is manifested in Frau Blau's creations. As a graduate of Shenkar College of Engineering and Design with a BA in fashion design, Helena creates and designs for the label, while Philip contributes to the development of the designs due to his expertise as a graduate of the Department of Art and Graphic Design at Avni Institute of Art and Design. As an outcome of this wonderful collaboration, the two designers developed a special technique for creating digital trompe-l’œil on fabric. In 2007, Philip and Helena won Award of the Ministry of Science, Culture and Sports of Israel for their achievements in fashion, and specifically for developing the technique. There are two Frau Blau boutique stores and their creations and collectibles are displayed in galleries, museums and private collections worldwide. www.fraublau.com
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PRODUCTION & STYLING: Sharon Vaizer HAIR & MAKE UP: Liat Ben Shimshon PHOTO: Elgar Heftsy MODEL: Adaya Zaidman
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Novo Hombre
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Tamar Branitzky
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Photography credit: Lea Gottlieb Archive
"Lady of the Daisies" is the exhibition, focused on the work of Israeli fashion designer and entrepreneur Lea Gottlieb.
* Lea Gottlieb emigrated from Hungary to Israel in 1949 with her husband Armin who owned a raincoat factory. Lea immediately understood that raincoats were not appropriate for the climate of the Middle East and started sewing swimsuits which launched to instant success in 1956. Gottex was innovative and sophisticated, with products sold in over 75 countries. In 1972, Gottlieb won first prize in the International Fashion Show in Cannes, becoming a key figure in the international beachwear fashion scene. Over the years, Lea Gottlieb's designs have been featured on the covers of the world's most prestigious fashion magazines. Prominent figures who have worn her designs over the years include Queen Elizabeth, Princess Diana, Queen Noor, Mrs. Nancy Kissinger, and movie stars like Elizabeth Taylor and Brooke Shields. Lea Gottlieb continued to design a new collection every year up to 2002. In 2012, at the age of 94, Lea Gottlieb passed away in Tel Aviv. A memorial book for Lea Gottlieb will be made available in 2014.
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PHOTO: Keren Lachman
a vision of design and industry in Israel, is an important evolutionary step in the life of the museum. Lea Gottlieb put Israeli fashion on the map with her elegant and flattering designs that sold in over 80 countries." Work on the exhibition began more than six months ago with the process of sorting and selecting pieces from Lea Gottlieb's archives. Lea Gottlieb also visited the museum to
** Gottex Swimwear Brands Inc. Established in 1956, iconic swimwear brand Gottex has always been synonymous with high quality and effortless glamour. Combining swim and beachwear, Gottex has earned a reputation as a fashion leader. The company is currently under the creative direction of Molly Grad, who prior to Gottex designed for international fashion houses including Stella McCartney, YSL and Gianfranco Ferre. Grad is also known for her illustrations, for which she won the Nina De York and Colin Barnes awards. www.gottex-swimwear.com
PHOTO: Yael Engelhart
PHOTO: Yael Engelhart
Founder of internationally successful swimwear brand Gottex** — famed for the Seven Suit that sold over one million pieces in 1985 alone — Gottlieb was a prominent and exceptional swim and beachwear designer and innovator of fashion in Israel's textile industry. Galit Gaon, Chief Curator at Design Museum Holon, says, "This homage to the work of a trailblazing woman, who led
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Av ai l Jewelry by Andres Gallardo
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SPANISH FASHION: On the roadmap for success Spanish designers sell successfully there. I strongly recommend to all international buyers to pay particular attention to the amazingly creative and passionate Spanish fashion designers. Think of the global market place of the emerging economies of South America, China and India, where to own a creation designed in Spain makes it unique, and can be used to win the competition in selected markets. Use Google and visit their websites, travel to Madrid and engage with them, you won't be wasting your time: fashion is an excellent reason to visit the beautiful bright and lively city of Madrid. Sketch by Hannibal Laguna
The world of fashion: does it mean just glamorous parties, fashion shows, photo shoots? Of course, not! First of all, it is business: fashion thrives amidst the worlds five most profitable businesses. Countries like Italy, France and the UK have managed to excel with fashion and have successfully built a strong and enduring business structure. The point of this research is to discover the current state of Spanish fashion industry and report on its strengths, profitability and sustainability and make a few recommendations that would contribute to a roadmap for success. I would like to begin with by pointing out that the Spanish fashion industry is on the right road to success. During my first visit to Madrid I was given a short guided tour through Spanish fashion by Colleen Murphy, fashion publicist and Lucia Cordeiro, executive director of ACME (Asociación Creadores de Moda de España). ACME coordinates designers, nurtures and cares for them and helps accelerate their development. During my stay in Madrid I visited many showrooms and ateliers: global jewellery designer – Helena Rohner; forward fashion creator, who has shown her collection in London, Milan and Paris – Amaya Arzuaga; creative multitasking madrileño designer – Duyos, Juanjo Oliva, whose chic atelier is a reflection of his signature style; Hannibal Laguna in his flagship store full of red carpet styles….all associated with ACME. In order to get a full picture I also visited the exclusive dressmaker Alfredo Villalba, who is bringing young clientele to his fashion atelier. To get a feel of local industries I visited the prim and sunny MIRTO shirt factory, where brand’s signature shirts are practically handmade to a demanding quality level. Last, but not least, I visited LOEWE, the Spanish luxury brand, specializing in leather goods, where I received an amicable an enthusiastic insight into the label, which becomes more and more trendy. My overall impression is that the quality of clothes is outstanding! I really felt the spirit of Spanish fashion. I cannot express all my emotions with words, fashion is something you have to see and feel, not just read about, and sometimes it is what touches you in a special way. Spanish fashion designers, as many other designers in the world, try to solve the problems that arise when it comes to sales objectives. They should focus on foreign markets, consolidating brand image, working on global communications, collaborating closely with mass and social media. Spanish fashion requires stronger fashion image and must be promoted internationally more extensively. It is time for the world to discover the new names of fashion. Asian countries have already realised this and as a proof,
* Please note that what you have just read is just a brief introductory tour of the Spanish fashion. We will provide you with the comprehensive assessment information as well as separate articles for each of the designers and brands in the upcoming issue of F’OLITIQUE Magazine, which will be fully focused on Spain.
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