F'OLITIQUE December Issue

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DECEMBER 2015

ANNA LA GERMAINE

THE FUTURE OF FASHION ngs Sentebal PRINCE HARRY bri up to SA royal salute polo c

Virtual Marketplaces changi ng the game of fashion business

Gindi TLV Fashion Week

@folitique

L A I C E SP N O I T I ED

Every upcomin g brand urge ntly needs proper brand manag ement

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Madrid SS16

NICO ROSBERG celebrates ABU DHABI‘15 victory at AMBER LOUNGE



www.matteovolta.com


DECEMBER 2015

PHOTO: Jaroslav Monchak DRESS: LAKE MODEL: Vita @oksmodelsmanagement STYLING: Anna la Germaine @anna_lagermaine MAKE UP: Lily Y @lily_y_makeup

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Third Floor 207 Regent Street London, W1B3HH, UK Tel.: +44 20 7193 4794 www.fashionpolitique.com PUBLISHER: Fashion Politique Ltd. Company #07918891 - Registered in England Š All the materials of this issue of F’OLITIQUE magazine cannot be copied, either wholly or partially, reproduced, transferred, loaded, published, distributed or otherwise used in any way without the prior written consent of Fashion Politique Ltd.

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photo by Ronen Fadida

It was back in September 2011 one night in Munich, Germany, while I was developing the presentation of F’OLITIQUE Magazine, that I just founded, when my friend photographer from Tel Aviv messaged me on Facebook and asked if I am coming to the first Tel Aviv Fashion Week. My answer is always- WHY NOT?! And next month I made it to Tel Aviv with over 200 other international journalists.

Networking is one of the greatest things. Take every opportunity to meet new people, share ideas, share experience, create collaborations. Together we are always stronger than alone. Forget about your ego. The main goal of everybody of us is to make this world a better place. I am grateful to my team and partners for all the support. F’OLITIQUE is not just one more fashion magazine, it is encyclopedia of each country’s fashion industry and I am happy this is happening.

With love,

Anna la Germaine Director Fashion Politique Ltd.

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www.annalagermaine.com @anna_lagermaine


KAVIAR GAUCHE

Photos provided by Getty Images

at Fashion Week Paris 2015

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THERE’S

NO DOUBT www.fashionpolitique.com


THE FUTURE BY ANNA LA GERMAINE

Dear colleagues and friends, It took me 4 years to finally publish this article. Fashion industry has arrived to the point where it will take completely different direction. There are many reasons, but one of the reasons is that it lost its value to most of us. One of the reasons why it happened – are fast fashion brands like ZARA, H&M, Forever 21, etc. We received fashionable collections at very low prices, fast fashion brands spoiled us, our wardrobes are full of trashy non-quality things, that one day our unconsciousness refuses to accept. It’s just too much. We want back our self-identity, which was simply lost. We became copies/zombies. You can come to the event in a Zara dress and 5 other people will be wearing the same dress. Going to the fashion weeks majority of the guests and journalists are wearing…. YES! FAST FASHION BRANDS! How come? We come to the shows to write reviews about established or upcoming designers, to help buyers to spread the word about the designers they work with, to make collections more visible, more sellable… but not many of us, people closely related to the fashion industry, wears unique designer clothes.

of fashion

Fast fashion brands killed many upcoming designers. Those fashion designers who are still trying to succeed, face big problems to make connections with buyers. Many buyers until now were more focused on famous brands than new talents. But we all got bored. IT’S TIME TO BRING BACK OUR SELF-IDENTITY. The next hot thing is – emerging designers. It’s finally the time to pay attention to each countries fashion industry separately. Now, visiting Israel, Spain, Italy – we should turn away from globalization and pay attention to the collections of upcoming designers, to support national fashion industries. In 2011 I launched a Magazine – F’OLITIQUE focus on countries (it’s digital and available in hard copy). Why I called it “focus on countries”? You know the answer already. We are making research on different countries fashion industries, discovering new brands as well as highlighting already established national brands, so when going to the particular country- you can check what brands and designers could be interesting for you. New term in the fashion industry appeared lately – AFFORDABLE LUXURY. Why affordable luxury? Small brands cannot compete with fast fashion brands, people stopped buying expensive clothes, but they still LOVE the word LUXURY. So the brands simply had to decrease the prices, to make the collections more accessible, trying to bring back the attention of the customers. The message is: “You can get UNIQUE outfit at a very good price!”. 11


www.cristianoburani.it 12


Major incomes are from middle class, not from the richest people. It’s time when classical e-commerce platforms will be turning into the marketplaces, or marketplaces will be becoming more and more popular serving as a marketing tools to sell the collections directly from small brands and emerging designers worldwide to the customers. Custom-made collections will be getting more popular, especially with the development of fashion technologies, like 3D body models, helping to get the perfect sizing of a client and produce the item without physical fitting. Yes, this is what is happening! I was fighting a lot during those years to explain designers that the changes arrived. Many of them still live in the past and are closed to the changes, but they will not be able to ignore them for a long time. Whether you accept the changes and adapt, whether you are out of this business. Flexibility is very important. Fashion Tech Startups are working hard to reflect the current needs of the industry, from the moment the collection starts to be sketched, sampled, exhibited, produced, delivered – to the moment it is sold and recycled. Many-many new brands appeared on the market and the market became very-very crowded and competitive place as never before. To get attention of

the press and buyers is more and more difficult. Just too much… Of course every designer/brand dreams to sell worldwide in top retail stores the collection, but there are too many independent designers, and market needs are much less. Also a big problem is that there are not enough opportunities for internships for young designers, so many of them simply launch the companies and work, but many of them sink quickly, after the first-second season, because they come from creative background and they lack business background. Nowadays, designer is required to understand the fashion business system in order to succeed. The solution for emerging designers/ brands is to focus on getting their niche, their circle of clientele. Therefore more and more small factories are being launched in Italy, Germany, USA and now launching in the other countries to produce small orders for niche brands. Most likely new brands cannot meet the minimums that big factories require and they are not able to produce the orders they received at the trade fairs in-house either. So, small small factories seem to be a great solution. It’s time to open the door to the changes that arrived to the fashion industry and to start adapting to them.

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S/S1 6

More than 50,000 visitors attended the 62nd edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid

MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK M

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AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA

Photos provided by Getty Images

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The emblematic Spanish fashion show, organised by IFEMA, witnessed the participation of 42 designers and brands The L’Oreal prize to the best established designer collection was awarded for the third consecutive time to the Alvarno duo of designers, and the best model awarded to the young Joana Sanz from the Canary Islands Madrid, 2 October 2015Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid (MBFWM), organised by IFEMA, and considered as the leading example of Spanish design and its creative diversity in the world, completed its 62nd edition with a successful event, which registered a total of 50,320 visitors, a figure that is 12% higher than the amount registered in September 2014 and with a very satisfactory balance in terms of the level of collections presented. Throughout five sessions held in hall 14.1, it was once again turned


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AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA

AMAYA ARZUAGA

AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA

AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA

AMAYA ARZUAGA

AMAYA ARZUAGA

AGATHA RUIZ DE LA PRADA

AMAYA ARZUAGA


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DUYOS

DUYOS

DUYOS

DUYOS

into the key setting for fashion, bringing together the best proposals for Spanish design exhibited by 42 of the most prestigious designers and brands currently around. Similarly, fifteen upcoming designers exhibited their proposals in the Samsung Eco Showroom of the Cibelespacio, with direct sales to the public. The fashion show calendar was opened by the creative duo Ailanto on 18 September and ended on Tuesday 22 September with the SAMSUNG EGO platform, in a session exclusively dedicated to emerging talent in the design sector. In parallel with the fashion shows, in this edition the Desigual brand ran a Re-see of their Spring-Summer 2016 collections on 18 and 19 September in the form of an exhibition at the Casa de Las Alhajas in Madrid, which was open to the press, VIP clients and the public over the course of two days. In addition to the general programme, among the new features of this MBFWM event was the participation in the fashion show of the young brand María Ke Fisherman, which was presented on Sunday 20 September. The brand’s inclusion confirmed, once again, that MBFWM has a long-standing commitment to young talent offering them support, given that this brand started out

at Samsung Ego, where it participated in three editions. Having recently celebrated its first 30 years of running as an event, the fashion show reinforces its value as the best exponent of Spanish design in the world, in each edition bringing together the best designers currently around, the prestige and recognition of which surpass our borders. Over the last few years, MBFWM has included key names in the current panorama of Spanish design, like Alvarno, The 2nd Skin, Juan Vidal, Etxeberría, Leandro Cano, Ulises Mérida and Moisés Nieto, among others, who have received different awards as a recognition for their work. Furthermore, there are now numerous figures that are well-known in the world of international cinema and music that wear their designs. Since it was initiated in February 1985, the MBFWM catwalk has hosted shows by almost 300 designers. Many of them started their careers in the first years of the fashion show and nowadays they are indispensable names in the panorama of national fashion. Even younger participants have been involved over the last few years, contributing their talent and new perspectives in fashion creations, which distil modernity and contemporary elegance, using their diverse creative speeches


DUYOS

DUYOS

ULISES MERIDA

ULISES MERIDA

Upcoming designers, on the last day Tuesday 22 September, the last day of the 62nd edition of the MBFWM event, was reserved for young talent in the world of design, with the fashion shows from the Samsung Ego platform, an indispensable creative driving force for the regeneration of Spanish fashion. 9 young Spanish designers participated in this event -4 of them already present in the last editions, and 5 new ones-. Likewise, the programme included the fashion show by an international designer, more specifically the young designer Zyanya Keizer of MBFW Amsterdam, in the scope of the Mercedes Benz Fashion Talent award, as well as the fashion show by María Glück from the Spanish brand Howl, as winner of the fourth edition of the Samsung Ego Innovation Project prize. On this day the best young designer was chosen, in the scope of the sixth event of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Talent award, which was awarded to the designer Xavi Reyes. This award promotes the chosen designer worldwide, by means of their participation in the next edition of one of the Mercedes-Benz fashion shows in the world. On the other hand, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid accepted the awards sponsored by the company L’Oréal Paris. The L’Oreal prize to the best established

designer collection was awarded for the third consecutive time to the Alvarno duo of designers, and the best model awarded to the young Joana Sanz from the Canary Islands Fashion in the city As has become usual over the last few years, MBFWM continued to be dedicated in its 62nd edition to making sure that the spectacle of fashion reached every corner of Madrid. On this occasion, the fashion shows were rebroadcast on screens placed at two emblematic sites of Madrid: at the Conde Duque Cultural Centre and at the culinary and entertainment multi-space Platea Madrid, at Plaza de Colón. For its part, the Spanish Association of Fashion Designers (ACME) set up the action “Madrid es Moda” (Madrid is Fashion), with which it also wanted to contribute to dressing up the city of creativity and Spanish design throughout the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. Maximum presence on social networks New technology was once again very prominent at the MBFWM event, both with the rebroadcasting of the fashion shows live on the websitewww.mbfwmadrid.ife23


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DEVOLTA&LOMBA

DEVOLTA&LOMBA

DEVOLTA&LOMBA

DEVOLTA&LOMBA

JUAN CARLOS PAJARES

ANGEL SCHLESSER

DEVOLTA&LOMBA

DEVOLTA&LOMBA


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DAVID CATALAN

JUANJO OLIVA

DAVID CATALAN

MAYA HANSEN

JUANJO OLIVA

JUANJO OLIVA

MAYA HANSEN

JUANJO OLIVA


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JUAN VIDAL

JUAN VIDAL

JUAN VIDAL

ESTHER NORIEGA

ROBERTO TORETTA

JUAN VIDAL

LUKE LEANDRO CANO

ELENA RIAL


Strong support from sponsoring brands Once again at this event, MBFWM had strong support from sponsors on behalf of the leading brands in their respective sectors, Mercedes-Benz, L’Oréal Paris, INDITEX were its main sponsors. In total, sixteen brands offered the event their support: Samsung, Solán de Cabras, Movistar, G´Vine, Schweppes, Cervezas Alhambra Reserva 1925, Rowenta, Kaiku Caffe Latte and Hannibal Laguna Shoes (creator of the ballerina pumps worn by hostesses), among others. In addition to these brands, other collaborating names took part, which made the most of the occasion of MBFWM to launch their products to a related public. This is the case of the watch brand, Elephant&Castle; the glasses brand Lord Wilmore, Electronics Arts, promoting their games, The Sims, and Wahanda, an online reservation website for beauty centres. These brands, in the same way as in the main leading fashion names, developed their activities in the area of the Cibelespacio, with permanent animation, where in parallel to the fashion shows of the event different activities were offered aimed at the visiting public, like makeup, hair and styling demonstrations, as well as the sale of exclusive creations by creative youths, etc. Similarly, Fashion TV, the leading channel worldwide specialising in the world of fashion, was once again the official international TV channel for this event.

THE2NDSKINCO

ma.es and in their dedication to social networks that had a strengthened presence for the event. In this sense, in collaboration with Twitter, the broadcasting of the fashion show was strengthened both on @twitterSpain and @TwitterFashion, and in addition the fashion show increased its presence on this social network with diverse integrations –Twitter Mirror, Q&A, Periscope, Tweet Cam….In the same way, the fashion show successfully launched its presence on the new social network, Snapchat, which has recently started up in Spain. Equally new in this edition, are a selection of fashion shows that were recorded with 4K image technology, therefore forming part of the select group of international fashion shows that have materials in their fashion shows recorded in this format, the quality and definition of which offer a similar effect to 3D recordings, but without the need to wear glasses.

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AZABALA

AZABALA

MOISES NIETO

ROBERTO VERINO

ZYANYA KEIZER

ANA LOCKING

ROBERTO VERINO

ROBERTO VERINO


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ROBERTO VERINO

ZYANYA KEIZER

JUANJO OLIVA

DUYOS

ROBERTO VERINO

DAVID DELFIN


VENTURING FOR SUCCESS

THE TRUTH BREAKING INTO

PA R T I

Launching a fashion brand leads you through a risky way to success. Therefore, every single step matters, requiring clear vision of what it takes to succeed. Even though fashion designer is a creative person, lacking business background is a pitfall, breaking the plans. Facing the problems fashion business carefully conceals, turns into a predictable tragedy and it is no surprise that up to 70% of emerging designers fail. Indeed, the fashion business course should be highly demanded course taught in fashion design schools. 30

Dreaming of your own brand is achievable, even if you haven’t obtained running own business experience. Take it slow, get involved in fashion business already existing. Working for established fashion houses brings you into the core part and you see how the business structure is set, same as exploring the process from inside and meeting industry people. Making savings is the advice worth your future success. Being on the market for at least three seasons since you launched is the key fortune when building your brand.


If the funds will only be enough for the first collection, your business turns to be at significant risk. There is still a chance to succeed, if you properly manage sales. Do not dream of a fancy fashion show. Mainly, you will spend the funds, ending without sales. That is a ground for searching investors. At least some

designers believe it could be a solution. Still, it can be, however, it is a very competitive market and 97 % of investment companies will not get crazy about venturing into a newly born fashion brand, unless the brand itself discovers how to turn creativity into funds. Do you really believe, bringing investors, repays?

Let’s review the first case: You are preparing a business plan, making a list of investors, who could potentially start working with you and spend a lot of time preparing.

Now, let’s talk about the second case, those 3% of the investors who could still stick to your proposal.

Then, you send out emails with proposals and what happens next:

1. Will I be able to subordinate? 2. What kind of investor I am searching for?

50% of the investors will reply: ‘Thank you, but we are not interested.’

30% will not reply at all

The questions you should ask yourself:

Seed funder

Angel investor

Venture capitalist.

3. What can I offer in return? A share in the company?

NOTE: Never leave yourself less than a majority stake.

3% might still say: ‘Yes,’ but you have more chances to get investments from your personal connections, via working at the fashion house than starting on your own.

17% will say: ‘Maybe, but only when your sales rise at least up till 500 000 - 700 000 GBP

per year.’

Investments may come not necessarily from a classic venture capital agency/investment company, but most likely from someone who already runs a successful fashion business, fashion house or even a group and who would also be interested in acquiring your company, as well.

4. Keep in mind that mainly investors aim to invest and get profits, they will not be devotedly passionate about your business same as you are and they will not feel your company spirit, as in most cases, they have many companies already managing. Actually, the investor is called to be your mentor who will share advice and tips how to break through. Considering investing opportunities, search for someone who really cares! Everything is real, but the choice is all yours.

Article by Anna la Germaine Edited by Joan Woodford 31


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#paolabonacinabags

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GINDI TLV

SAMPLE

FASHION W E E K A/W 15/16

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When somebody asks me what Fashion Week I like the most- I always answer that one of my favorite is Tel Aviv Fashion Week. Why? There are many reasons. First- my company was founded almost the same time that the Fashion Week in Tel Aviv; second- the level of the organization, third and very important- atmosphere, the emotions I have when I am there are simply amazing. This year it was my third Tel Aviv Fashion Week, and I felt like I am visiting the family, it wasn’t just about business. Few years ago there was not much heard about Israeli Fashion in the world, but thanks to Tel Aviv Fashion Week attention of international press was attracted and Israeli fashion designers promoted. After my first Tel Aviv Fashion Week I decided to make a research on Israeli fashion industry and publish F’OLITIQUE focus on Israel. It was very exciting to discover fresh names, meeting over 70 designers personally. Tel Aviv was Celebrating International Acclaim of Shenkar College at Gindi Tel Aviv Fashion Week in 2015. Gindi TLV FW took place between October, 18 - 21, and com-


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SHAI SHALOM

SAMPLE

SHAI SHALOM

SHAI SHALOM

SAMPLE

SAMPLE

SHAI SHALOM

SAMPLE


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SHENKAR

SHENKAR

SHENKAR

TOVALE

MUSLIN BROTHERS

LIRON ITZHAKOV

TOVALE

MARCELO BURLON


YARON MINKOVSKY

YARON MINKOVSKY

YARON MINKOVSKY DODO BAR OR

MILI DAHAN DODO BAR OR

pleted this year’s round of international fashion weeks, featuring the latest collections of leading designers in the Israeli fashion industry, many of which have received recognition beyond the local scene. In line with the unprecedented recognition received by Israel’s Shenkar College’s Fashion Design Department by Business of Fashion as the fifth most influential fashion school in the world, a tribute was paid to honor the school’s extraordinary achievements. Gindi Tel Aviv Fashion Week opened with a special Gala event during which were showcased the school’s famous graduates, which have established successful careers in the fashion field in Israel and abroad. Among over 30 fashion designers that showcased at Gindi Tel Aviv Fashion Week Motty Reif, Fashion Week’s head producer, has decided to allocate a significant number of slots to young artists, to emphasize the importance of supporting upcoming and new designers, working to establish their brands in the fashion industry. The list of the designers presented their collections during Gindi TLV FW includes: Gideon Oberson, Dodo Bar Or, Dorin Frankfurt, Tovale+, Yaron Minkowski, Idan Laros, Sample, Alembika, Betka by Betty Eldad, Gadi Elimelech, Maskit, Noveau Riche Dog, Rimma Romano, Shai Sha37


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GADI ELIMELECH

CLOTHE - EVA AL KENERESH

CLOTHE - EVA AL KENERESH

NORTHERNSTAR

SABINA

GADI ELIMELECH

NORTHERNSTAR

SHANI ZIMMERMAN


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ALEMBIKA

DORIN FRANKFURT

ALEMBIKA

MASKIT

DORIN FRANKFURT

DORIN FRANKFURT

MASKIT

RIMMA ROMANO


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BELLINKY

ELIRAN NARGASSI

ELIRAN NARGASSI

GIDEON AND KAREN OBERSON

GIDEON AND KAREN OBERSON

COMMON RAVEN

HED MAYNER

NORTHERNSTAR


MEWS

HANNAH

lom, Shani Zimmerman; Upcoming Designers : Common Raven, Hannah, Mews, Muslin Brothers, Northernstar, Eliran Nargassi, Assaf Reeb; Young Designers: Clothe Eva Al Keneresh, Liron Itzhakov, Mili Dahan, Nihilo Nili Ben Simon, Sabina, Shenkar. Gindi Tel Aviv Fashion Week took place in the Gindi TLV Fashion Mall, an invested compound for luxury fashion brands that is in its final construction stages. Being the key event in Israel’s fashion industry, Tel Aviv Fashion Week was attended by all important and relevant press, cultural and political representatives. In addition, the organizers were hosting a delegation of fashion editors from leading lifestyle and fashion publications from over 15 countries, which came to cover the event. THE GINDI GROUP With 50 years of vast experience in development, the Gindi Group is a leading international real estate player involved in development and management of hundreds of thousands sqm of commercial areas and shopping malls, and dozens of thousands of residential units in luxury towers and neighborhoods all over Israel and Europe. MOTTY REIF PRODUCTION Motty Reif is Israel’s top event and TV producer, with over 25 years of experience. Motty began his career in fashion production and for many years created, produced and directed all fashion & lifestyle television programs in Israel. Motty was partner in Abot Reif Hameiri between 1999-2011, one of the largest event and media production companies in Israel. Motty was also the owner of the largest model talent agency ‘LOOK’, and is responsible for the discovery of many major talents in fashion, film, stage and music. As of 2005 Reif produced two documentaries that received international success: “Life After Tomorrow” for ‘Showtime’ starring Sarah Jessica Parker and “Brave Miss World” directed by Cecilia Peck, which was nominated for an Emmy award in August 2014. After successfully producing the Beverly Hills Fashion Festival in Los Angeles in 2010, Motty took upon himself to turn Tel Aviv into a new fashion capital by initiating the TLV Fashion Week. The event has become a major milestone for Tel Aviv. Motty Reif has become the key figure in the fashion industry in Israel. 41


Article by Anna la Germaine Edited by Joan Woodford

VIRTUAL MARKETPLACES CHANGING

THE GAME OF FASHION BUSINESS!

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( B 2 B ) PA R T I I Over decades intensive globalization processes have forced designers to chase for cost-consuming performances to get worldwide recognition in return. Instead of focusing on sales, designers used to seek for the runway show or another exhibition. Have you ever wondered how the fashion weeks and trade fairs impact designers’ prosperity? It is quite reasonable disputable concern, as this is the critical point where approaches to making fashion business tremendously collide. The fashion industry urgently needs key interactions to be optimized. No wonder that failure at building sales strategy means lacking cost-effective results, that squeezes the brand potential through extra expenditure. To reach the promising perspective brands should integrate e-commerce services into their core priorities. Obtained success of online marketplaces is a solid ground for approved optimism. Fashion business-to-business (B2B) transactions such as buying, selling, trading, delivering and contracting seem to be natural targets for conversion to e-commerce. Retailers find designers’ collections accessibility online to be the key advantage of the brands represented via e-commerce platforms. Widespread recognition of the brand is the essential benefit favoring designers working with e-commerce platforms. Meantime, physical presence onstage everywhere had become more ephemeral. Until recently, fashion weeks, trade fairs and exhibitions where expected to deliver significant economic output. Although, top fashion weeks and leading trade fairs have been recognized as the pedestal, empowering designers, still oversatured fashion events calendar is a challenge for both brands and retailers as it is impossible to spend all the year round visiting the events.

Spending the funds this way is rather entertainment than a business approach. E-commerce experience had been successfully adapted to numerous market demands and leads to fast economic growth. Virtual marketplace by far simplifies retailers daily routine, bringing them a complex solution instead. The process itself of finding new brands and discovering new names has become remarkably easy. When joining a virtual marketplace the brands get practical guidance and professional team to rely on. Consolidating the efforts of both parties virtual marketplaces remove barriers between retailers and brands, turning retail industry built on a regular basis into a different much more effective way. E-commerce stimulates redistribution of traditional physical markets, discovering new market mechanism, transparency and greater market access. Making fashion industry research leads you to promising talents discovery that is remarkable. The idea of local fashion industry research first came out in 2011 while I was preparing my visit to Tel Aviv Fashion Week. Our team was contacting fashion professionals and industry related organizations to prepare the journey, counting that every detail matters. Being armed with the huge list of names, I went to the shows. Aspiration to meet those people in person was the key to revealing the spirit of Israeli fashion. Once, the retailer at the event, saw the list, he got interested. However, buyers usually meet with few brands, the fashion week recommends, bringing the fresh blood on board is in great demand for retailers. The clients tired of the same brands on magazines covers, chosen by celebrities and hanging in boutiques, seek for someone new who would break into. Retailers are not the researchers who scout designers around the globe. Retailers expect tremendous sales rather than travelling for the sake of mysterious next generation, while marketplaces are the right fit – the hub, coordinating retailers with designers to bring the solution at once. No wonder that providing decent selection of brands marketplaces have become quality guarantor in the fashion business.

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I N T R O D U C I N G FA S H I O N I L L U S T R AT O R

KÄTLIN KALJUVEE Kätlin Kaljuvee is an illustrator living in the middle of the wildlife and forests of Estonia. Transforming the old myths and stories into contemporary fashion illustration, her hand illustrated ink pen and watercolour artworks have been commissioned by the likes of Givenchy, r0tring, Samsung as well as by the local presidential and social elite. In her recent works, she is illustrating the two stories connecting with the psychological topic of femme fatale. One of the stories is a well-known myth of swanmaidena half swan-half woman creature, and the other story is

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drawing on the famous poem of muse Judith beheading Holofernes. Please see the attached pdf for images. Kätlin has said that she would love to stop people for a moment in a time with her works, letting them go timeless adventures through centuries. Kätlin is also drawing prints, transfering her drawings into silk cloth and scarves. Among the owners of her artworks is the legendary Patti Smith, whose music also a source of inspiration for Kätlin. Kätlin Kaljuvee will be showcasing her latest works at the WeAr Select London show on 9 – 10 January 2016.


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KEMPNER

NY FA S H I O N WEEK S/S 1 6

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NICHOLAS K

ANGEL SANCHEZ

Photos provided by Getty Images


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OHNE TITEL

BOSS WOMENSWEAR

REBECCA MINKOFF

PAMELLA ROLAND

KARIGAM

FASHION SHENZHEN

CALVIN KLEIN

DEMO PARKCHOONMOO


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CONCEPT KOREA

LIE SANGBONG

PRABAL GURUNG

NOON BY NOOR

MICHAEL KORS

HERVE LEGER

MARIST REPRISE SON JUNG WAN

LELA ROSE


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NICOLE MILLER

DESIGUAL

JCREW

CARMEN MARC VALVO

NOVIS

VIVIENNE TAM

SUPIMA DESIGN COMPETITION

TOMMY HILFIGER WOMEN’S


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THOMAS WYLDE

STELLA NOLASCO

JENNY PACKHAM

LIBERATORE

ANNA SUI


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BCBGMAXAZRIA

IDAN COHEN

JEREMY SCOTT

RACHEL ZOE

ALICE OLIVIA

KYE

CUSTO BARCELONA

GROUND ZERO


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VIVIENNE HU

TAORAY WANG

GREG LAUREN

SKINGRAFT

THE ART INSTITUTES

MARISSA WEBB

BIBHU MOHAPATRA

ZANG TOI


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MARA HOFFMAN

DKNY’S WOMENS

GEORGINE

DEREK LAM

SUNO

BADGLEY MISCHKA

RALPH LAUREN

TOME


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ACADEMY OF ART UNIVERSITY

SON JUNG WAN

LIBERTINE

REEM ACRA

JOSE NATORI

LEANNE MARSHALL

MONIQUE LHUILLIER

PROJECT RUNWAY


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ERIN FETHERSTON

YIGAL AZROUEL

NAEM KHAN

REBECCA VALLANCE

DENNIS BASSO




After wrapping up the Formula One season on a winning high in Abu Dhabi, Mercedes’ Nico Rosberg celebrated his third win in a row, from a sixth successive pole position, with 20 F1 drivers, and the whole F1 fraternity at Amber Lounge Abu Dgqbi, The Original F1 Experience. Renowned for bringing the most luxurious and star-studded event to the Middle East during the F1 weekend, Amber Lounge Abu Dhabi 2015, hosted at Yas Links golf course, kept its promises as the only place to merge the glamorous fast-paced spirit of Formula 1 and the sophistication of a unique rocking after-party. This year, Amber Lounge Abu Dhabi hosted two electrifying Grand Prix weekend parties on Saturday 28th and Sunday 29th November. British R&B superstar Craig David presented and performed live his incredible TS5 show alongside 5 other International DJ’s who played their hottest mixes to create two memorable adrenaline-pumped parties. For the 7th year in a row, Amber Lounge brought an atmosphere that cannot be easily found elsewhere. Nico Rosberg, Abu Dhabi*s F1 race winner took to the stage with Roberto Merhi, Nico Hulkenberg and Daniil Kvyat after dosing the crowd in champagne. Over the weekend, F1 drivers including Sebastian Vettel, Romain Grosjean and Esteban Gutierez to name a few, as well as GP3 Champion Esteban Ocon and GP2 Champion 58

Craig David presented and performed live his incredible TS5 show

Stoffel Vandoorne came to celebrate the culmination of the 2015 F1 season till the early morning. “This year’s Amber Lounge Abu Dhabi was truly amazing! - says Sonia Irvine, Founder of Amber Lounge. “I’m delighted with the come out of our event this year. Our VIP guests and F1 drivers left having experienced the best Amber Lounge ever. Our sponsors helped greatly in delivering this one-of-a-kind event; Grey Goose, Abu Dhabi Motors and Rolls-Royce Motor Cars, SNS Marine and Neuschwansteiner have been truly fantastic, it is a real pleasure to be collaborating with them.” Combining intimacy, luxury and sophistication to create a truly unique clubbing atmosphere, Amber Lounge is revered as THE playground of the international elite. With a captivating outdoor waterside terrace which offered stunning scenery of Ferrari World and the iconic Viceroy Hotel, Amber Lounge Abu Dhabi 2015 created the ultimate experience and allowed VIP guests to enjoy Abu Dhabi’s most glamorous destination in a true race spirit. The 2015 Formula 1 season has come to a close but Amber Lounge is already pleased to announce it will return to the F1 hotspots in Monaco, Singapore, Mexico City and Abu Dhabi in 2016!

For more information, visit: www.amber-lounge.com

Photos provided by Getty Images

NICO ROSBERG celebrates his ABU DHABI 2015 victory at AMBER LOUNGE with 20 F1 drivers


Felipe Nasr

Jean Eric Vergne

Craig David

Nico Rosberg

Marcus Ericsson

Alexander Rossi

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PRINCE HARRY BRINGS SENTEBALE ROYAL SALUTE POLO CUP TO SOUTH AFRICA Photos provided by Getty Images

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After six years, annual polo match raises over £3million for His Royal Highness’ charity Today, Prince Harry took the field for the Sentebale Royal Salute Polo Cup in Cape Town as part of His Royal Highness’ South African tour. The Royal Salute team took home the trophy – presented by Royal Salute guest of honour, Torquhil Campbell, the 13th Duke of Argyll, in what was a closely fought match, with a victory of 8 over the Sentebale team score of 7*. In the sixth year of partnership between Sentebale and British luxury whisky Royal Salute, the Polo Cup follows the charity’s official opening of the ‘Mamohatu Children’s Centre - the flagship centre in Lesotho that will provide emotional and psychological support to communities currently affected by HIV and AIDS. Distinguished international guests at the renowned Val de Vie Polo Club included Laura Main, George the Poet and some of South Africa’s most influential figures, including Ryk Neethling, Jeannie D, Graeme Smith and Tokyo Sexwale who eagerly watched Prince Harry battle it out on the field, alongside Royal Salute World Polo Ambassador Malcolm Borwick and Sentebale Polo Ambassador Nacho Figueras. Sophie Gallois, Global Marketing Director, Chivas Brothers – brand owner of Royal Salute commented "As title partners for the Sentebale Royal Salute Polo Cup, we


are proud to say that our donations amounting to over £1million have gone to inspiring Sentebale programmes, all of which support communities in Lesotho affected by HIV and AIDS. Congratulations to Royal Salute’s team and thank you for making this match the highlight of the Royal Salute World Polo calendar this year.” Malcolm Borwick, Royal Salute World Polo Ambassador commented: “It has been a great honour to play at the Sentebale Royal Salute Polo Cup this year alongside Prince Harry. I have been around the globe with Royal Salute World Polo Programme and this tournament remains the most inspirational event I take part in. Over time, it has been a privilege to see Sentebale grow in part due to both Royal Salute’s and the sport’s charitable efforts.” Royal Salute is a proud supporter of the oldest team sport in the world and this year became title partner of one of the most prestigious polo events in Britain, the Royal Salute Coronation Cup. Supporting over 18 international polo events across the Americas, Asia Pacific, Europe and the Middle East, Royal Salute’s next polo tournament is in Jodhpur, India, where guests can look forward to an unparalleled artistic and cultural experience. Follow the journey and be a part of the Sentebale Royal Salute Polo Cup : www.royalsalute.com, Instagram | @royalsalute, Twitter | @royalsalute, Facebook | RoyalSaluteOfficial

* Sentebale is a charity co-founded by Prince Harry and Prince Seeiso – a country bordered by South Africa. Prince Harry visited Lesotho in 2004 and was struck by the devastating effect the HIV/AIDS epidemic was having on the nation and particularly its children. Prince Harry and Prince Seeiso founded Sentebale, meaning ‘forget me not’ in Sesotho in 2006 – a charity aiming to rewrite the future for the impoverished population of Lesotho, providing the thousands of children and young people affected by HIV/AIDS with vital access to accommodation, care, education and critical psychosocial support. If children with HIV are educated about the virus, they not only learn about their condition but can educate their peers about the disease, enlightening a generation about this potential killer. 61


VIRTUAL SHOWROOM CONNECTING RETAILERS & BRANDS WORLDWIDE “LET´S GIVE OUR FASHION INDUSTRY A SECOND CHANCE TO BREATHE!”

www.allee-germaine.clothing @allee_germaine


VIRTUAL SHOWROOM

AllĂŠe Germaine helps fashion retailers with brands selection for their boutiques and stores. Working with numerous designers we can easily tailor a special proposal to every client. We take into consideration all the aspects that retailers would like to have in the boutique/store and bring complex solutions to them. Especially, when working for a new boutique our skilled buyers who perfectly know the brands we represent, can develop the concept and make the brand selection to be unique. We also collaborate with retailers who already have a developed concept, tailoring unique offers of new exclusive products. Nowadays, when the impressive number of new emerging designers enters the market, our company scouts the best newly discovered and the most perspective ones. We are proud to represent such vivid talents

and to introduce them to retailers as the guarantor of product quality and exclusivity. For more information please visit: www.allee-germaine.clothing

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A bridge between arts.

“A bridge between people.

A bridge between realities.

A bridge between cultures.

A bridge between loves.

Bridging 2016­2017 Winter Collection provides excitement, warmth, follows the trend of Back To Tradition and Heritage connected with Contemporary Art, Innovation and Fine Crafts.”

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THE VI July 2014, war, children in Israel and Gaza una constant risk. Years that they have been SI der living under threat. ON A worldwide search online for someone like-

minded. It began in Israel, continued to Gaza, the West Bank, Arab countries: Egypt, Syria, Lebanon, Tunisia, Yemen, and back again to Gaza where it landed. It yielded a bold and not obvious connection between two artists. A Palestinian architect who lives in Gaza and an Israeli fashion designer who lives in Milan. Both of them born and raised in an impossible paradigm: Neither can accept the reality as it is. Both are desperate for change. Thanks to the Internet, social networks and the digital medium, The two people who would never meet because of the circumstances – met precisely because of the circumstances. They realized individually they would like to change. As Palestinian artist who lives in Gaza and Israeli fashion designer who lives in Milan, They have one big dream in common. They both wish for the day they will live in peace together. They will create and grow as humans and as nations like brothers and sisters. Recognizing that their power together is greater than separately. They are able to express that their dream is not just a fantasy. It is possible to live together and to create art together just like they are doing. In their origins, the Quran and the Torah, there is one is one story in common. It tells of an encounter between Muslim patriarch Ishmael and Jewish patriarch Isaac. Both sons of Abraham. Brothers. When Abraham died, after many years of distance and separation they reunited again – to bury their father together. (Genesis 25:9­11) Their goal as they see it, Is to reunite for the living. Not just for the dead. To show a way of LIFE. Which is more important than any war and argument. “​We want to offer a different course, not to wait to reunite in the event of death, but to learn from history and unite while we have our lives to spend.” 66


THE Michal Hidas is an Israeli fashion designer travels between her homes in Tivon, ART who Israel and Milan, Italy. She studied fashion IST design at the Academy of Fashion Design

Marangoni in Milan. She was recently named One of The Most Promising Talents, when she placed first among 40,000 participants in the I足SKOOLTM digital prize, an international fashion design competition sponsored by ISKO, one of the largest denim producers in the world. BRIDGING is her first collection produced for sale to

the public and it is her first collaboration with J.T. To learn more about Michal, please visit website at http://www.HIDAS.net J.T. is an architect engineer with extensive experience. Born and raised in Gaza, Palestine. J.T. has participated in many local and international exhibitions including in the U.S., UAE, Spain, and India. As a security precaution, J has requested that identifying information about him be kept to a minimum. For the Bridging project, he has chosen to use his initials rather than full name.

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THE CO LLA BO RAT ION

Michal and J.T.’s collaboration in BRIDGING leverages the individual design strengths of each of them. They researched and worked together to translate their concept into visual illustrations, textile patterns and finally a fashion collection. The sketches for BRIDGING began with J.T. hand drawn illustrations of architectural structures, his most organic mode of artistic expression. Michal then translated the drawings into patterns and printed the patterns on sets of rare fabrics. Michal’s then drew the designs for the collection inspired by the mood of their vision. Each piece of the collection was then produced by hand. The project BRIDGING was first shown at the Port Gallery in Jaffa, Israel alongside the works of Italian and Israeli designers with Italian influence. They both have long­ term plans for innovative exhibitions and workshops for children and youth to expose their important message in creative and optimistic ways. You are invited to read more and see the collection at: w​ ww.bridging.ml

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www.fashionpolitique.com


Article by Anna la Germaine Edited by Joan Woodford

EVERY UPCOMING BRAND URGENTLY NEEDS PROPER BRAND MANAGEMENT Having the small team while making the first steps in the fashion business, designers often get lost as the complicated situation on the market requires immediate decision. Currently, various specialized consulting agencies compete for their role in the market. For emerging brands such agencies have already become the essential part of doing business as they can rely on experienced professionals who can easily prevent problems. Brands often say that cannot afford consulting services, however, it is always possible to find a compromise and agree on mutual benefits, in case you show up the brand potential.

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Sharing experience and collaboration are the key elements of success. As a vivid example of the solution available for emerging designers, we can enlist Milan-based Wemanage project (www.wemng.it/), providing designers and brands at early-stage with strategic direction and extensive market knowledge to develop their business. Wemanage team carefully designs, develops and manages the strategic internationalization process for brands that want to expand their business in foreign markets, helping the brands to reach their target customers through a solid marketing strategy oriented on digital channels.


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