SEPTEMBER 2015
L A I C E SP N O I T I D E
MATTEO VOLTA
AND HIS B&W HEROES
Anna la Germaine: es changing Virtual marketplac n business the game of fashio
AMBER LOUN GE brings Mo nte-Carlo Glamour to M exico City
Luxury with a conscience: NALEDI COPENHAGEN
MIPEL108: the new route of th
e bagshow
ON
GINDI TLV FASHION WEEK NEW EDITI
@folitique
Collective designers fashion show at HONGMIAN FW
www.matteovolta.com
C O M I N G S O O N O N W W W. A L L E E - G E R M A I N E . C O M
www.cristianoburani.it
SEPTEMBER 2015
PHOTO: Jaroslav Monchak DRESS: LAKE BELT: BCBG MaxAzria MODEL: Vita @oksmodelsmanagement STYLING: Anna la Germaine @anna_lagermaine MAKE UP: Lily Y @lily_y_makeup
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Third Floor 207 Regent Street London, W1B3HH, UK Tel.: +44 20 7193 4794 www.fashionpolitique.com PUBLISHER: Fashion Politique Ltd. Company #07918891 - Registered in England Š All the materials of this issue of F’OLITIQUE magazine cannot be copied, either wholly or partially, reproduced, transferred, loaded, published, distributed or otherwise used in any way without the prior written consent of Fashion Politique Ltd.
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photo by Ronen Fadida
Dear Readers! I am waiting for my flight to Milan and I would like to share some of my thoughts that crossed my mind with you. Do you know the feeling when you want something badly and finally you get it? After some time you get used to this thing and finally forget about it or loose a passion to it. Fashion- is a magic word. It knows how to keep our interest and to stay on our mind lifelong. It changes every season, but still remains itself- fashion. Fashion was born of love and for love. Its primary goal
was to impress, to be beautiful, to stand out of the crowd. We should learn a lesson from it! We should use this lesson while building our relationships. Sometimes we think that our love to a person we loved once so much is over. Most likely it is not over. Daily routine makes us blind and we start seeking for something new. We should change, we should progress, we should develop in the relationship, but still remain ourselves. It’s boarding time, so I wish everyone a great season!
With love,
Anna la Germaine Director Fashion Politique Ltd.
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www.annalagermaine.com @anna_lagermaine
We live in the age where mass media, mass market, mass preferences dominate our perceptions. They dictate us how to dress, what perfume to wear, what tendencies to follow, what height of heels to choose regardless of what really suits each of us. Eventually, most people choose to become clones of celebrities or advertised fashion patterns rather than sustaining one's individuality. Of course, when there is a new trend or something becomes a trend, many will soon follow it. Why not to be different and choose appearance that reflects one's personality? Don't shy away from your singularity, be confident and stand out! To look beautiful and stylish you don't have to copy masses – try exclusive clothes from emerging designers! By choosing emerging designers, you show your preference to fresh ideas, excellent quality and attractive prices. To look elegant and expensive, you don't need to put on all your diors and louboutins. To look attractive and smart it's enough to dress high quality creation from an emerging brand and combine it with top brands. Learn about emerging designers from different countries and you will be obsessed with their creative works! Don't be afraid to meet and try the fashion's newest crop of talent. The moment we stop comparing ourselves to others and striving to be something we are not, is the moment we stand out in our own unique way. We should start developing our self-identity — and that's the accessory we can own forever.
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THERE’S
NO DOUBT www.fashionpolitique.com
1-STEP INSTAGRAM & FACEBOOK SELLING Spreesy was launched in November 2014 as an Instagram selling service by co-founders Spencer Costanzo & Braydon Batungbacal. How did we get the idea? – We had spent months building a mobile commerce marketplace app from scratch, but we ran into problems when trying to scale the customer side of our marketplace. Spreesy started as a growth hack for the marketplace app where we used Instagram to expose products to potential customers. When we realized the potential that Instagram selling had, we immediately dropped the marketplace that we’d worked on for months, and began building the Spreesy that you know today. What is the main goal? – Our goal is to make social commerce accessible to anyone who wants to sell anything on any social network. Spreesy is completely free to use for this reason. We see social commerce, the intersection of social networks & eCommerce, as the future. How we started. – The marketplace app that we built called SOMO became Spreesy. What are the plans for the future? – We are launching Facebook selling this week as our 2nd social network integration. Spreesy will eventually support all major social networks so that sellers can sell seamlessly across the networks where their customers are most engaged. For more information please visit: www.spreesy.com
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Luxury scarves BY MAGDALENA MIESZKOWSKA
Magdalena Mieszkowska is a young artist who has dedicated her life and career to art. Intuitive and impulsive, she is pioneering a dynamic movement that gingerly touches upon the universe of ‘pop art’. Dubbed as the new “fresh touch” from the East, Gdansk born Mieszkowska creates her artistic vision through ambitious forms and drawings of a thousand faces. As a young girl, her dreams took on new shapes every day, but you won’t find the seeds of these ideas there. No, she didn’t draw with crayons on the wall at home and no she didn’t try to change all her mother clothes into scarves. Magdalena doesn’t believe in serendipity, maybe things don’t happen for a reason, maybe they are governed by chaos, dumb chance and a roll of the dice. 16
In her early 20s her insatiable wanderlust took her to England where she studied Graphic Design & Advertising and then onto Paris, where she now lives and produces her art. Her work is extension of her personality: brazen and bold. Characterized by the embroidered works of her imagination, she imbues her creations with a positive energy, sublimating her impulses into a fusion of color and ecstasy. The exuberant colors used in her illustrations are joyful and playful. Magdalena tries to create a sense of another world of geometric shapes, patterns and childlike innocence tainted with 1960’s psychedelia. There is a hidden watchfulness in these designs that brings them to life wherever they are placed. It is a celebration of life that colors these eccentric landscapes, in all it’s myriad shapes and forms. Her aim? To elevate our consciousness into meditating upon a whole new gender, to deconstruct our notion of self, to free our minds. The silk collection is a continuity of her artistic vision, that culminated in creating her own brand MAGDALENA MIESZKOWSKA in 2013.Like a canvas for an artist the silk twill is a perfect medium to transform Magdalena’s designs into something more sensual, feminine – a luxurious accessory that denotes timeless elegance and effortless sophistication. The ‘carré’ of Magdalena is not just a simple fashion accessory, it embodies the idea of wearing a piece of art whenever you want it. It flirts with our desire to stand out and to walk through your life with no fear. The message is clear: live your life boldly, in the weird and captivating world of Magdalena Mieszkowska, just like in her designs, everything is possible. www.magdalenamieszkowska.com
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1. Ring by Inbar Shapira · 2. Necklace by Persy · 3. Earrings by Persy 4. Clutch by NALEDI COPENHAGEN · 5. Brogues by Luke Grant-Muller · 6. Bag by NALEDI COPENHAGEN 7. Dress by RISH by Yoav Rish · 8. Pin by MILIUS Milan Stamenovic · 9.SWAROVSKI · 10. Boots by Mauron 1959
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Ring by Ludmila Navarro 路 2. Clutch by NALEDI COPENHAGEN Colar pins by MILIUS Milan Stamenovic Dress by RISH by Yoav Rish 路 5. Sunglasses by Rogue Pumps by MISS GARCIA 7. Lipgloss by BY SWIERCZ
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1. Clutch by NALEDI COPENHAGEN · 2. Earrings by Persy · 3. Lipstick by BY SWIERCZ · 4. Dress by RISH by Yoav Rish 5. Bag by NALEDI COPENHAGEN · 6. Pumps by DE SIENA· 7. Bracelets by Hagar Satat · 8. Earrings by 10decoart
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1. Necklace by Persy · 2. SWAROVSKI · 3.Rings by Nitya Chandra · 4. Dress by Maya Hansen · 5. Earrings by Lily and Dahlia 6. Pin by MILIUS Milan Stamenovic · 7. Shoes by Imelda · 8. Clutch by MeDusa
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EMANUEL UNGARO selects OMATE wearable tech platform
Omate announces strategic partnership with French Fashion House – Ungaro. 11 August 2015, Paris/Mountain View – Omate extends its smart jewelry line up in collaboration with French Fashion House EMANUEL UNGARO. Omate announces the Ungaro ring at the 500Startups Demo Day held at the Computer History Museum in Mountain View – California. Ready-to-wearable Jewels are a part of our identity and reflect our personality. In order to reinforce its market position and enhance its fashion tech product portfolio, Omate introduces a new generation of smart jewelry focused on style and user experience in collaboration with French Fashion House – Emanuel Ungaro. “This collaboration with Omate is a manifestation of our commitment to design the next generation of fashion accessories while we are celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Emanuel Ungaro House.” Says Marie Fournier, Managing Director – Emanuel Ungaro SAS. 22
Invisible Fashion Tech: simple, beautiful, discrete Inspired from the iconic design of the Diva perfume – a fragrance for Women which has been introduced by Emanuel Ungaro in 1983, the Ungaro ring aimed to empower modern women by connecting them to what matters the most – their inner circle. Based on the “less is more” mantra; the Ungaro ring is leading a new generation of wearable fashion tech through the Omate platform. “We are delighted to share our wearable tech expertise and platform with such a renowned French Fashion House. The result of this collaboration from design to
engineering highlights Omate’s motto that technology is what we carry, but fashion is what we wear.” Says Laurent Le Pen, CEO at Omate. Separate the Vital Few from the Trivial Many The average amount of notifications hitting a smartphone stands at about 150 times a day. Many notifica-
* About Emanuel Ungaro: The story of the House Emanuel Ungaro begins in 1965. Located on the Avenue Montaigne in the heart of Paris’s couture fashion district, since 1967, the House of Emanuel Ungaro has acquired international fame with its unquestioning femininity, purity of silhouette, flamboyant prints and exquisite attention to detail and color. The brand is present in all international markets through its ready-towear and accessories collections for women and men as well as its fragrances and home decoration collection. For more information please visit: www.ungaro.com Emanuel Ungaro SAS – 2 avenue Montaigne – 75008 Paris
tions are trivial from advertisement messages, unknown incoming calls, and random social network notifications however we do not want to miss a thing from those who matter the most to us. The Omate iOS application allows users to select one VIP contact. When the pre-selected contact either calls or sends text messages to the ring holder, the ring will subtly vibrate to notify the wearer. The Ungaro ring acts as a new generation of invisible contextual smart cocktail ring; no light notifications, no visual effects will be indicated; just one subtle vibration. The Ungaro ring is powered by a Nordic Semiconductor – nRF51822 which is built around a 32-bit ARM® Cortex™ M0 CPU. In order to ensure its authenticity, every Ungaro ring will be protected by Cypheme smart label technology. The Ungaro ring will come in gold and silver along with an assortment of five gemstones: blue topaz; opalite; onyx; sapphire and ruby. The ring will be assembled by Richline Group – the World’s foremost Fine Tech Jewelry Manufacturer and Marketer, and a wholly-owned subsidiary of Berkshire Hathaway Inc. – in their Arezzo, Italy factory. The collection will be available from November 2015 in the retail through Richline Group from $500 to $2,000.
About Omate: Omate® is a hardware and software company that designs wearable fashion tech products. Omate offers a complete Hardware and Software turnkey solution platform allowing Fashion and Jewelry brands to design the Fashion Tech of the 21st Century. Omate operates as a vertically integrated wearable design manufacturer based in Mountain View – California and Shenzhen – China. For more information please visit: www.omate.com 23
FANASKII LUXURY JEWELRY FANASKII is one of the most niche jewellery brands on the current market. What makes FANASKII so special? The company designs and creates dazzling pieces with rose gold finishing. Rose gold has become a whole new uproar and timeless trend that will permanently remain in the industry. FANASKII provides the service of bespoke designs made of gold and white gold upon request. Founder of FANASKII, Farah Jamal, decided not to limit the company on production of rose gold jewellery only but once the company was officially launched the collection of rose gold clutches was designed and produced. Currently FANASKII started designing diamond jewellery pieces as well. We, people, all have ideas we would love to bring to reality which FANASKII once was – just an idea. At the young age of 17, the future Director of FANASKII, Farah Jamal, invented the name for her future company. She knew she would one day pursue her dream company after completing her studies at University. She wanted a gorgeous rose gold ring once she dis-
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covered the rose gold finishing colour, and found it difficult to find the perfect rose gold jewellery with very little choice in the shops and online. It was a light bulb moment. She knew what she wanted to create – a brand, uniquely dedicated to rose gold jewellery. Once having graduated from University, she started learning about the jewellery industry and deepening knowledge about this industry by visiting various workshops and manufacturers, understanding each step of production of a single jewellery piece. She made sure the brand FANASKII reflected a great positive impact not only in the jewellery pieces, but in packaging, and delivery service, customer service, in quality of the crystals and in all other details in between. Since then, FANASKII has been distributed in various boutiques and has a monobrand online store where all FANASKII products are available and shipped worldwide. FANASKII has clients from all over the world delivering them not only the most precious jewellery pieces, but special emotions. www.fanaskii.co.uk
Clutch Collection: Santorini
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" 3AN !NDRES
-*, Ê-1 ,Êän
www.sanandresmilano.com
#MIPEL108:
the new route of the bagshow
Riccardo Braccialini Aimpes President
The 108th edition of Mipel, the historical and most important international event in the leather goods sector, took place at Rho Fiera Milano 1-4 September 2015. Strongly advocated by Mipel chairman Roberto Briccola and endorsed with the appointment of the new chairman of AIMPES, Riccardo Braccialini in April 2015, its renewal is oriented towards creating an internationally glamorous dimension and making all-Italian excellences the main players, thanks also to the support of the Ministry of Economic Development and the Italian Trade Agency - ICE. The first new development was the change in the location of the pavilion: by moving it from the first floor to the ground floor, visitors can optimize their itinerary at the Fair. This appeared to be the occasion for cooperation with theMicam, two manufacturing sectors – leather
Fabrizio Solè General Director of MIPEL
Roberto Briccola Aimpes Servizi Srl President
goods and footwear – that frequently share their public, and at the same time strengthen existing synergies. Covering an area of about 10,000 square meters, the exhibition area included over 200 Italian and international brands from such countries as Australia, Austria, Brazil, China, France, Germany, Japan, Great Britain, India, Portugal, Romania, Spain and Thailand. The four exhibition sectors – Design Studios, Extra, Panorama, Punto.it – hosted brands like Andrea Mabiani, Araldi 1930, Baldinini, Braccialini, Bric’s, Campomaggi, Carl Laich, Caterina Lucchi, Cerruti 1881, Enrico Coveri, Cromia, Ferrè Milano, Gabs Franco Gabbrielli, Gianni Chiarini, Gianni Segatta, I Medici, I Santi, Jaguar, Jean Paul Gaultier, Leonhard Heyden and JOST, LEU Locati, Momodesign, Moschino, Nannini, Piero Guidi, Plinio Visonà, Pollini, Renato Balestra, Stamerra, Tosca 29
Blu, We Positive and YY Coveri, which are distinguished by innovation and creativity. The centre of the new pavilion hosts an ultra-new area called “The Glamourous”, with 10 emerging Italian designers: Badura, Barbara Bonner, Benedetta Bruzziches, Alessandro Enriquez, Filippo Fanini, Gedebe, Azzurra Gronchi, Giancarlo Petriglia, Salar and V°73. A new concept also for the set-up: a synaesthesia inspired by nature and the bucolic atmosphere of an imaginative wood where visitors were surrounded by shapes, colors, sounds and aromas that evoke new sensory experiences. The many technological developments at this edition included the presentation of the innovative digital device supplied by IdOO, which will enable visitors to “read” and tag information about the brand and designers on social networks via the new G4 leather smartphone provided by LG; the new MIPEL app directly connected to mipelnews (the portal for news about the world of leather goods and fashion accessories) for finding out about all the events; the catalogue of exhibitors and all the information about the Fair. Lastly, the four days dedicated to new leather products for spring/summer 2016 was animated with the participation of Proraso and its Proraso Temporary Barber Shop, where visitors could relax and change their look. Participants at the Fair were immortalized by two photographers using the hyper-technological POLAROID SOCIAL MATIC and the ultra-new “fashionable” OLYMPUS PEN E-PL7; lastly, in the Lounge, two artists from the SCUOLA DEL FUMETTO DI MILANO (Milan Comics School) have been creating individual portraits of the visitors.
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MIPEL 108 GALA DINNER “The Glamorous Shopper” September 1st 2015 At Carlo e Camilla in Segheria, via Meda, 24 Milan
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Daphne Guinness by Matteo Volta
MATTEO VOLTA O N E O F T H E M O S T K N O W N PHOTOGRAPHERS IN THE FASHION INDSUTRY
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BLACK & WHITE HEROES Born in Bologna in 1974, he gets in touch with photography in 1992 . In 2002 he decides to permanently move away to Milan, to make a job of his passion. Milano gave him the opportunity to get in touch with the world of fashion and to take countless pictures: advertising campaigns (La Perla, Gianfranco Ferre’, Costume National, Paladini Lingerie, Olga Frua, Feb 31st, Raoul, Boglioli and many others), celebrities portraits (Anna Wintour, Paris Hilton, Boy George, Daphne Guinnes, John Malcovitch, Coco Rocha and many others) and
Coco Rocha by Matteo Volta
fashion shows during New York, London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks. Matteo is one of the most known worldwide fashion shows photographers since 15 years. Since 2006 he became a part of Imaxtree Team the biggest world’s fashion shows agency. Every season Matteo Volta covers the runway shows during the fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris since fifteen years. In 2015 he was invited to China to be the official photographer of Hongmian Fashion Week in Guangzhou. 33
Anna Wintour by Matteo Volta
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John Malkovich by Matteo Volta
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Boy George by Matteo Volta
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Dita Von Teese by Matteo Volta
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VIRTUAL SHOWROOM CONNECTING RETAILERS & BRANDS WORLDWIDE “LET´S GIVE OUR FASHION INDUSTRY A SECOND CHANCE TO BREATHE!”
www.allee-germaine.clothing @allee_germaine
VIRTUAL SHOWROOM
AllĂŠe Germaine helps fashion retailers with brands selection for their boutiques and stores. Working with numerous designers we can easily tailor a special proposal to every client. We take into consideration all the aspects that retailers would like to have in the boutique/store and bring complex solutions to them. Especially, when working for a new boutique our skilled buyers who perfectly know the brands we represent, can develop the concept and make the brand selection to be unique. We also collaborate with retailers who already have a developed concept, tailoring unique offers of new exclusive products. Nowadays, when the impressive number of new emerging designers enters the market, our company scouts the best newly discovered and the most perspective ones. We are proud to represent such vivid talents
and to introduce them to retailers as the guarantor of product quality and exclusivity. For more information please visit: www.allee-germaine.clothing
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NALEDI COPENHAGEN
www.naledicopenhagen.com www.allee-germaine.com/naledi-copenhagen
Article by Anna la Germaine Edited by Joan Woodford
EVALUATING THE MARKUP:
HOW TO BUILD THE WINNING FORMULA Weighing up the markup limit is the fundamental point of the pricing policy formation. The importance of the markup should never be neglected, as the price must accurately reflect the value and the quality of the product you create. It is not just about the profits, but the balance obtained between your company margin and the sum your client is able to pay. The markup directly reflects your future profits, it does not necessarily mean that you sell a lot, but it also means that your price is high enough, but still affordable for the clients. If the pricing policy is built properly, then you can expect to get the gross profit in minimum items sold. Despite several methods how the markup should be built, usually it the markup equals double the wholesale price plus 20 to 80 percent, usually referred to 2.2 or 2.8. The minimum basis taken into the calculation is the cost of goods sold. You should always compare how your product is positioned in the market, when the wholesale price and the cost of goods sold are not too high. Although, it is a common practice to apply 3.0 markup due to the extra costs that might be applied (customs duty, freight, etc.). You should consider that the markup should be at least 50 percent of the retail price, that is called a keystone markup. Keystone pricing is fairly common, but remember that you have to cover all the expenses you have: salaries, production, loan payments etc. The keystone markup is the starting point. You should
evaluate whether it is competitive adjust the price of an item up. Compare that to competitors’ price, including online. Would that work in your market segment? It is essential to keep up with the market and calculate carefully balanced price. Do not hesitate in monitoring the niche you work in to check how competitors’ products are priced. If the price gets too high, the collection might be left unsold, on the contrary, when the price is too low, even when you sell all the items you might not be able to cover direct and indirect costs. The price you build defines your profit margin – the difference between costs and sales. The markup formula is calculated in the following way. For example, if a dress costs $100, the retail price with a 25% markup would be $125. Gross Profit Margin = Retail Price – Unit Cost = $125 – $100 = $25. Markup Percentage = Gross Profit Margin/Unit Cost = $25/$100 = 25%. Retail Price = Cost X Markup Percentage + Cost = $100 X 25% + $100 = $125. The markup percentage can best be defined as the increase on the original retail price and should be thoroughly calculated in a way that ensures that a company can receive the proper amount of profits.
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LUDMILA NAVARRO
www.ludmilanavarro.com C O M I N G S O O N O N W W W. A L L E E - G E R M A I N E . C O M
THE CLUE TO REVEAL THE DEMAND
STATISTICS ON THE MARKET
Keeping up to date on the latest technologies allows you to grow your business in a more effective faster way. One of the latest technological improvements were discovered by italian company RetailerIN (www.retailerin.com). RetailerIN makes use of a state-of-the-art indoor localisation technology provided by their technology partner Quuppa. Customers’ movements are monitored through active tags attached to shopping carts, shopping baskets and products. An interactive Web dashboard provides access to statistics and visual analytics. The implemented technology keeps accurate statistics of the products the customers interest the most and those products that are not in demand. For retailers it could also be a huge support in emerging designers and brands selection. Retailers can also experiment and order within the season emerging designers collections they like the most to check which of the designers are highly in demand. By the means RetailerIN offers retailers can reveal actual client interaction and the products highly demanded. Such technology is an alternative solution empowering buyers, keeping them aware of customers choice.
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Article by Anna la Germaine Edited by Joan Woodford
REVEALING THE MAN BEHIND THE BRAND:
THOMAS DRISCHEL, FOUNDER OF ROBERT KERR AND FORMER GENERAL MANAGER AT GALERIES LAFAYETTE SHARING EXPERIENCE ON SUCCESSFUL BRAND MANAGEMENT AND CHALLENGES IN FASHION RETAIL.
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In 2013 Thomas Drischel left his position as General Manager of the department store Galeries Lafayette to fulfill a lifelong dream: to bring his own personal touch to men’s style and elegance. By creating Robert Kerr, a brand dedicated to luxury accessories (ties, scarves,…), Thomas rejuvenates a refinement inherited from his grandfather Robert Kermabon (1921-2009). I decided to interview Thomas to share his exciting experience that combines both sides: working for one of the top french fashion retailers- Galeries Lafayette and managing his own fashion brand- Robert Kerr. A.la.G.: From your personal solid experience as General Manager at Galeries Lafayette, could you, please tell us what was the most difficult challenge in your career and how it helps you in your own brand development? T.D.: When you run such big stores and very big teams, it’s difficult to have an eye on and control every aspect of the business. When you have such responsibilities, you need to be aware of what’s important and what’s urgent, not to be afraid to delegate in order to take the decision quickly. The challenge, is to keep an instant, interactive and 360° communication between you, your floor managers and the sales team. The main priority is the client satisfaction whatever happens, and under any circumstances. That’s why; you always need to adapt and to be synthetic in your management skills. These challenges are quite similar in the entrepreneurial adventure, moreover, when you are alone because you can’t delegate and you have to do everything. From the artistic and designing aspect, to the accounting or the marketing one. It’s a non-stop marathon race, you need to be focused because even the smallest mistakes can put your business into trouble, especially when you start and don’t have the financial capacity to get over it.
A.la.G.: What would you advise perspective emerging designers, seeking for success? T.D.: When you create your own business, your own brand, passion and hard work are the keys to success. It’s absolutely fundamental to have this natural resource and mentality. But, if you want to be successful and create a sustainable business model, you need to think as a businessman rather than just a designer or a creator. It’s important to take some distance and not being too “narrow minded” or make some “ego-marketing” mistakes. In every industries or fields, the business that keeps growing is the one that simply responds to the customer needs and offers an adding value. Don’t be afraid to talk about or share your ideas to your friends and family in order to step back and keep your judgement and reflection always fresh. A.la.G.: Do you believe that emerging brand can deal properly without investments? If you believe that emerging brand cannot handle without investments, what he should pay attention to? If you believe that it is possible to develop the company without investor, who else can then help and support the brand? T.D.: Of course, the more money and investment you have at the beginning of your brand, the more levers you will be able to activate at the same time. Money helps you to save time, especially in your operational, communication and marketing strategy. But exists other way to 45
support your brand. Crowdfunding platforms, business angels, love money. A.la.G.: What challenges emerging designers face on their way to success? T.D.: Being able to Combine core values of their business and keep adapting at the same time to the market and clients. Take into consideration the marketing and communication power of social medias, and use them intelligently. Many brands go bankrupt because they are not enough prepared to adapt their business model when it goes successfully. You need to create and anticipate every aspect of your business as well the worst as the best scenario. A.la.G.: What are the main requirements to retailer in order to have good interaction with clients? What are the main requirements to retailer in order to have good interaction with brands? T.D.: Retailers are always looking for novelties, something unique that nobody has in order to retain the clients and make them become loyal. Retailers are looking for novelties, choice at the best price. When you start to wholesale, everything is a question of margins, and how can the retailer will be able to sell your collections by making the best benefit per unit.
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A.la.G.: What are the key rules every designer should know in order to build a constructive dialogue with the retailer? T.D.: If you want to create a long-term relation with retailers, you need to be transparent and work on an honest and truthful basis. Never under or overestimate your production capacity as retailers need to be aware of the time delivery. You must know your prices, production capacity and time delivery absolutely perfectly at any time. A.la.G.: If the emerging designer starts collaboration with top fashion retailers, what problems, he can face (production and supply)? What risks the brand carries? T.D.: Any markets or businesses lie on the ratio based on the supply and the demand. Collaborating with a top fashion boutique can be an amazing opportunity in terms of branding, communication, PR and sales, but not on a benefit point of view. As the demand is so high, top fashion retailers negotiate wholesale prices harshly which gives a very low margin for the brand. Production and delivery time are also two main problems that a brand can have. Finally, most of the time, top boutiques do not buy your stocks and ask you to hold it or give you long payment delay which can put you in a very difficult position if you don’t have enough financial capacity.
A.la.G.: What a brand should do, if the funds for PR and marketing campaign are not enough? T.D.: There are many ways to promote your brand without spending thousands on PR and Marketing. First of all, you are the first ambassador of your brand. Apart from that, with a very reasonable budget, you can promote your brand via “Google ads”, “facebook ads”, Twitter and Linkedin (B2B) campaigns. Finally, your friends and family circles are also a good and easy way to promote your brand. When you start your brand, co-optation is very important. A.la.G.: What do you think about the exclusivity rights contract between the brand and online e-commerce platform? We do not take in consideration the exclusivity rights contract between the brand and local distributor. T.D.: Today, customers (especially on the web) are looking for novelties and choice, in that sense, when online e-commerce platforms ask for exclusivity rights, it’s a way for them to secure their offer and be sure that nobody else is selling the same thing. Exclusivity is also a key argument for e-commerce platforms as the client is so volatile and the competition is so hard. It can be a good option for a young brand to be referenced on a very famous platform in terms of image. But on the other hand, you reduce your communication channels and display, which means less brand awareness and sales. In my opinion, it really depends on the quality and the worldwide reputation of the platform. If not, it’s better to multiply your sales force but always by choosing a plat-
form that corresponds and shares the core value of your brand, and targets the same clients. Otherwise, the communication will be a disaster in terms of image, sales, and brand awareness. A.la.G.: In your opinion, should designers seek for outsourcing manufacturing for samples and collections production, starting from small factories that could satisfy their minimum order requirements? T.D.: Production and delivery are obviously main issues that a young brand can face when notoriety and sales are exploding. So many young brands are not prepared to face sudden success and didn’t anticipate enough their production chain and sourcing. When you start and don’t have a lot of money to inject into stocks and production, it’s very complicated to launch big production. Like you said, there are always some minimum order requirements and incompressible time. In that sense, the only way to face this problem is to find some little “handcraft” or “family” workshops that are able to satisfy your request. It’s also a perfect way to set long-term and trustful relations with such factories, as they will always be there to support you in the future if you have some production issues. Once again, the outsourcing manufacturing strategy depends on the level and quality confection that your brand requires.It will be totally different if you propose some cheap and mass items compare to some luxury and handcrafted collection.
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Article by Madalina Burghelea Edited by Joan Woodford
AWARENESS OF YOUR COMPETITORS LEADS YOU AHEAD
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We are excited about the latest collaboration with amazing perspective project – Datosphera (Barcelona, Spain). As our company also runs newly launched Startup Pool project, we find Datosphera as a perfect match for us. Working globally Fashion Politique has obtained a considerable database of brands, retailers, fashion tech startups each of which is seeking for market intelligence data, the latest market trends and competitors situation analysis. Having direct competitors is helpful, as competitiveness results in significant progress. In such a case, Datosphera speeds up the progress and allows you grow even faster, keeping you aware of the recent market tendency and trends. Fashion Politique Group, including: Allée Germaine Virtual Shopping Street and Allée Germaine Virtual Showroom, F’OLITIQUE Magazine Focus on countries and Startup Pool has initiated the collaboration with Datosphera project. As for now, Fashion Politique has established partnership relations with Datosphera, declaring a set of mutually agreed-upon objectives in the fashion industry. In this way, we expect to engage all the industry players to join Datosphera and contribute the accelerated approach in internet technology development.
Nowadays, the fashion industry is going through the breaking point from classic business model to making business online. This revolution is just being evaluated and a lot of people still cannot imagine how designers sell collections to retailers online; mainly designers are still making appointments with retailers in the showrooms. Even though, it is tough time for making sales, retailers are searching for the new brands; same as the brands willing to expand, cannot easily connect with retailers; being located in different parts of the world, separated by long distances, often requires your presence in several places at a time; at this point we agree that technological progress strives for innovations. Referring to those times when first online stores were introduced on the market, such as Net-a-porter as a pioneer in this field, and its founder Natalie Massenet, in particular, who despite the critics majorly developed the company that successfully took the global stage. Now, it is the high time virtual marketplaces for retailers should demonstrate their role in making the fashion business. The major part has already started working with e-commerce marketplaces and the rising popularity of this concept will bring by far bigger audience that will stand for this way of making business. 49
We suggest brick-and-mortar stores will still remain on the market, however, each of them will be focusing more on their own e-commerce platforms. At present, customers began desperately seeking again for exclusive garments, bringing fast fashion backwards. Upon a great number of talented designers breaking on the international market, retailers want to discover the new names, competing for the exclusive selection for their clients. Thanks to Datosphera system retailers and brands are aware of all the latest events happening on the market and at the same time let you move forward, keeping pace with technological progress. DatoSphera, created by a 24 years old entrepreneur is now opening publicly a free beta version. A solution by entrepreneurs for entrepreneurs, as simple as searching on Google, specialized on European company data. Based on a patented technology the online Big data platform, DatoSphera helps entrepreneurs build unique products and study investment data. Incorporated in Incubio, the Big data academy, the project has gathered in only one year more than 500.000 worldwide companies in their database. ‘We are entrepreneurs helping other entrepreneurs just like us because when we created DatoSphera we have seen ourselves how difficult is to know about all the companies worldwide doing what we wanted to know. ‘says its founder, Madalina Burghelea. After seeing the struggles of the technical entrepreneurs around her and seeing that they were developing products without checking if there are other competitors, Madalina decided to create an automatic tool for them. The platform is very simple to use as you only have to type in the company you want to study. Then 50
you receive a list of 50 competitors, data about their funding, investors, teams and much more. You can track them and receive emails about them or simply request a PDF/Excel report with all the competitors for that particular company. ‘I think the entrepreneurs job is not to Google and copy paste competitors, I think is creating products in a successful team. Through DatoSphera I wanted to help the other entrepreneurs have the help that I needed and didn’t have when I started.’ says its founder.
in fo@ m al avi . e u / m al avi . e u
The cool juniper taste and impulsive citrus note are reminiscient of the old colonial times which brought London‘s famous Dry Gin from the United Kingdom to Africa. Vastness and freedom are united in the unique taste of the Warm Heart of Africa. Enjoy the Jungle Spirit.
WEAREONE
M A N A G E M E N T Marco Longato Founder of WEAREONE MANAGEMENT model agency
Founded in 2015 by the Italian model agent Marco Longato, WEAREONE MANAGEMENT is an international model agency based in Budapest, scouting, representing and booking models worldwide. Besides the representation of a selected number of high level models and the new men’s division, WEAREONE MANAGEMENT proudly represents even supermodels such as Bianca Balti and Carmen Kass and the upcoming talent Roos Abels. Throught a professional network of scouters both in Hungary and all around Europe, together with the solid experience of it’s Director Marco Longato, international booker and scouter for years in a top level agency of Milan, WEAREONE MANAGEMENT ensures to its models jobs and placements with the best clients and the best agencies in the main fashion markets. The Agency goes through any subscription and casting with the maximum attention and care because WEAREONE itself will invest, plan photoshoots, teach 52
the profession and develop the career in the fashion business just for those girls and boys with the real potential, strong desire and deep wish to succeed in this profession. Together with the attention in developing great, succesful and long lasting careers, WEAREONE MANAGEMENT puts the same care into the welfare, the safety and the happiness of all the models represented, treating them as individuals first – then models. Meeting the needs of the models, non interrupting a child’s schooling, involving the models and their families in every decision, caring about their look and their diet are just a few of the guidelines of the agency.
WEREONE MANAGEMENT is waiting for you at www.weareone-mgmt.com and invites you to follow us on our social pages on Facebook, Instagram and Vkontakte.
ROCKING SOCIAL MEDIA MARKETING Social media service is a great resource to spread your brand message. Do not launch all possible social media accounts, concentrate on what matters most. Find what describes your company better and make it work for you. Choose what social media resources are the most important for your company and work on every account at least 1,5-2 hours daily. It gives direct interaction with clients and vivid diversity of alternatives how to promote your business online. Prepare professional content. Content is your alternative business card that speaks loudly of your brand. Although social media is entertainment it is also part of your job and should be business oriented. Make sure the images look nice and attractive. Before you post something, think of the impact it would have on your business. Develop your content to be creative to get noticed by your target audience and become leader within your niche. Think of unique content as it transmits the brand philosophy straight to the clients, as well as customers, retailers and buyers. That is why high quality content adds value to your brand image and recognition.
Please, keep your personal accounts aside and separate as the business account represents the company. From my personal experience, when I see the account of some designers I rather get confused discovering the photos from parties, celebrations and taken while hanging out, as I cannot find the product images and it is time consuming checking all media accounts of one company. To follow up with your customers, you have to make regular updates, covering the latest events. If you display content correctly, then it will introduce new business opportunities and attract your audience. It is also a way of generating sales. Creating your company social media image, you tell a story that will engage your customers and bring you profits. If you aim to interact internationally, it is better to post twice per day to keep up with the audience in different time zones. Create your own content and share it with your audience on the daily basis, pushing it forward to succeed. Working on social media techniques, helps your company to grow faster.
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www.juanamartin.net www.allee-germaine.com/juana-martin
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FASHION WEEK´15 who is Kapok , why Kapok what to do this ? For the last 6 years, HongMian has evolving its business with highly forward & international vision. Creativity is the core of Kapok business, they are the explorer of new style , new mind, new designers. They are willing and able to build up a platform for new creativities and international communication. HongMian fashion week is part of the strategy. Mr.Bu and he’s direct connection with Italian Fashion, has provided the possibility to build up the whole structure , with the help of Orietta Pelizzari & Matteo Bardi , the international fashion designer scouters, trend forecaster & market consumer analyst, to directing the events. from Kapok’s Forward scouting spirit Last year, they have selected new up coming Chinese Designers, which found Tan Wen, Lun Kun, Alexander T.Zhao which now had a great success on domestic and international fashion field. Who was proved to be well recognized by professional. For example has been selected by Shanghai Dragon Tv Channel to take part to Fashion Reality Show. This year, from Italy, Kapok will present new designer Rocco Adriano Galluccio and his brand Alcoolique, Rocco has participated in the TV Show “PROJECT RUNWAY Italia” and A-Lab, a fresh Italian mos loved from fashion media. From South Korea, but established in Milan, Rick Lee will showcase a futuristic fashion collection presented by using 3D avatar show. The events of 2015 Kapok Fashion Week 2015 Kapok Fashion week, for the first time is proud the present: Collective show, 5 Italian and 5 Chinese designers together for
5 Chinese fast fashion brands. Collective show selected 5 Contemporary Italian Designers, 5 Chinese young generation designers, with fresh open ideas, together working for 5 Chinese fast-fashion brands. Unexpected combination, showcase 5 creative fashion collections during a special show on August 22 afternoon at HongMian Fashion City 10th floor. 6 Italian designers show Italian show is a tradition since 2013. We scouted the 6 New Italian generation designers, famous in Europe, Asia and Usa. They will show their exclusive collections at the Official Guangzhou Stage, to professional fashion people and Top leaders. 1 Korean Designer show Rick Lee is a young cutting-edge Korean designer (based in Milan and graduated at Stunning Domus Academy School), proposing a 3D virtual fashion show with the support of 3D CLO system. Rick Lee is a forward contemporary designer Preparing a 3D virtual fashion show with the support of 3D CLO system. he will also work together with accessory designer Rob Elford and Shoes designer Abcense & Aennis Eunis, for a avantguard futuristic vision. 2016 lifestyle and fashion attitude trend forecasting International trend meeting , where designers, and creatives from ITALY CHINA KOREA are involved together to share their thoughts on future trends and emerging aesthetics. The aim is to prepare a presentation who showcase lifestyle and culture trends which will impact products and styles. 55
COLLECTIVE F A S H I O N
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2 2 N D A U G U S T 2 0 1 5 AT K A P O K I N T ’ N C I T Y, G U A N G Z H O U
The International Art Director Matteo Bardi of Mattori Studio Milano, Italy: “Shake Hands and Make things Happen”. What is the project, where and when is the show? 5 Contemporary Italian Designers, 5 Chinese young Generation Designers, with fresh open ideas, together working for 5 Chinese fashion brands. Unexpected combination, showcase 5 creative capsule fashion collections during a special show on August 22 at HongMian Fashion City 10th floor, anticipating spring summer 2016 trends.
PP+ designed by Mauro Gasperi & LuKun
The introduction of each collection & designers PP+, designed by Mauro Gasperi & LuKun.
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Mauro Gasperi based in Milan is famous for a clean and linear female woman, working together with LuKun, based in Shanghai with rich feminine taste, (his collection was presented in Dolce& Garbbana store). This time they were inspired by the the flags of “Game without frontiers”. Using fluid fabrics, translucent effect with layering, mixed with Geometric shapes, game inspiration patterns and modern denim aspect to create a new contemporary look, decorative and clean, refined and casual chic. Shengdai, designed by Stefano Ughetti and Tan Wen. Chinese Dragon, the Chinese cultural Mascot, inspired Shengdai’s collective collection. Stefano Ughetti from CAMO Biella and Tan Wen just successfully made it even abstract. With the artistic hand-brush motifs, new 3D textures and maxi long sleeves, you don’t lose any atmosphere of a spiritual ancient Chinese Style in a very forward vision. CAMO, named “Alternative set” by Pitti Immagine, his
Shengdai designed by Stefano Ughetti and Tan Wen
new term of performance presentation is always one of the most expecting brands in Pitti Uomo. Tan wen is graduated in London College of Fashion. Her collection was presented in London fashion week and last year HongMian Fashion Week. After the presentation in GZ, she won the Russian New-up coming Designer award at Admiralty Russian Contest in San Petersburg, and now work in Missoni. In This Collection you will find both of their spectacular thoughts, in new volume, new structures, new cuts, and the modern aspect of Chinese elements. Isle Of You, designed by Andres Caballero and Meng Zhi.
Isle Of You designed by Andres Caballero and Meng Zhi
Velvet is the Code of brand Isle of You. Andres Caballero & Meng Zhi, is doing an experimental using of velvet to give a dramatic twist of style. Capri Island, the famous glamour spot of Italy, has give a splendid inspire to the casual vintage summer look, with spiffing 70’s influence. San Andres, designed by Andres Caballero was a finalist in the “Who In On Next? Competition
organized by VOGUE Italia in collaboration with AltaRoma and gained the favour of both the press and buyers. Meng Zhi was graduated in Domus with a strong asymmetry and destructive style. VKV, designed by Alex Mitchumm and Huang Yan VKV collection became a urban fighter in their hands, through a passion of Extreme sport. Alex is designing a brand of 32 years, Mitchumm Industries, based in Como Lake Italy, with magnificent dandy & hipster taste. Huang Yan was graduated from London College of Fashion, major Menswear, and work for his own brand in Shanghai. You will see a free spirit inside of the dark Gothic sporty collection of both of them. Annakaka, designed by A.Lab Milano and Wendy Shi. Harajuku girls will rock the stage with exploration mix & Match. Playful characters & Cartons, all-over prints, metallic surface, stunning accessories and different sil57
VKV designed by Alex Mitchumm and Huang Yan
houette, together create a big drama of fantasy. A-LAB Milano and Shi Wendy is surely responsible for it. Designer Alessandro Biasi can be regarded as a lesson of modernity: the collections reflect a constant fascination and curiosity towards the contemporary world. Wendy was graduated in Domus Academy Milano with a dream-like feminine contemporary style. What is the creativity part : This was a new and unique project which fuse two culture connected by the similar attitude to fashion and glamour looking. The importance of relation between the designers from both countries is to work and share together their concepts. The process was not fighting but inspiring each other. It was the marvelous International modern aspect came from different cultures but not belong to any. What is business part: New designers face the world Young Chinese designers needs to put their fresh mind into commercial market, while the Italians need to fitted the different mentality into Chinese market. It was an organic evolving and growing for all the sides.
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Annakaka designed by A.Lab Milano and Wendy Shi
What is business part: give domestic market new style In other hand, the cooperation is giving the domestic market new style with a contemporary mood mixing Italian creative glamour and Chinese fresh visions, which was not so much expected in fast fashion and mass produce. It also build up a new retail format, with rich story-telling. The project create a story, an experience behind the collection, even more than the inspirations as common. It is the new term of promotion for retail, with all the backstage and experience of all the designers, while providing variety of products. Collection will be communicated with the Fashion Show and a static showroom will be displayed in the Kapok Stage in the following days to show case the designers style and sell the collections to fashion buyers and entrepreneurs. The Collective Designer project is a starting point for a long term collaboration between the Italian and Chinese designers working together and shaking hands with Chinese fashion companies.
Isle Of You designed by Andres Caballero and Meng Zhi
Isle Of You designed by Andres Caballero and Meng Zhi
Annakaka designed by A.Lab Milano and Wendy Shi
Annakaka designed by A.Lab Milano and Wendy Shi
VKV designed by Alex Mitchumm and Huang Yan
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Luxury with a conscience
NALEDI COPENHAGEN
Natalka Hansen and Mary Sini Founders, Naledi Copenhagen
WHO WE ARE Naledi Copenhagen is a Danish exclusive accessories brand bringing sustainability and ethics into the world of luxury exotic leather goods. The brand is best known for their signature ostrich clutches, often seen in the hand of the Danish Crown Princess Mary. Naledi Copenhagen’s ostrich collection is designed in Denmark using fully sustainable farmed South African ostrich leather. The word “Naledi” is an African female name, which comes from Sotho language and means “a star”. NEIGHBOURS IN CAPE TOWN The brand is an international brainchild of two friends, Italian Mary Sini and Ukrainian Natalka Hansen, who met each other while living next door in Cape Town. Having educational backgrounds in astrophysics and political science, and coming from fast paced careers in large multinational companies, the couple could claim to be possibly the most unlikely duo to ever start a fashion brand. Yet it was the combination of the beautiful ostrich leather 60
and the prospect of artisan manufacturing, that inspired Mary and Natalka to stray away from the established careers into the exciting world of new and unknown, and create their first collection. That’s how Naledi Copenhagen began, back in 2008. WHY OSTRICH LEATHER For their first collection Natalka and Mary chose a lesser known type of ostrich – rough and scaly ostrich leg leather – to show that the highly popular, and same time highly critisized “reptillic” look can be achieved without any ethical baggage – by using 100% sustainable ostrich leather. South Africa is world-famous for its luxurious ostrich, but the beauty of this leather is far from being its only attraction. It is an ethically good choice. Unlike most other exotic species, ostriches are not endangered and are 100% farmed. Ostrich farming is a sustainable operation, where the leather is a co-product of the meat industry. Apart from leather and meat, ostrich feathers, fat and eggs are also important commercial products, as is the extensive
tourism industry, created around the ostrich farms. Ostrich farming creates thousands of jobs in rural areas of South Africa. This combination of exclusivity and sustainability makes it stand out among other exotic leathers, such as python, lizard or crocodile, many of which are sourced from wild, even endangered animals, regularly causing a storm of valid criticism directed at the fashion industry. 49/51 BECOMES NALEDI COPENHAGEN The production of the first prototypes coincided with Natalka’s moving to Copenhagen, where she continued working on the the concept and design, while Mary was working on setting up the production and logistics in South Africa (which at times did require a rocket scientist like her). The brand was initially supposed to be called 49-51, which were the numbers of the neighbouring houses Natalka and Mary lived in. However eventually they chose “Naledi”, a Sotho female name that means “a star”, as a symbol of their aspirations and connection to Africa. Naledi Copenhagen was officially launched in August 2010 in Denmark, thus the “Copenhagen” in the name. Despite the impending economic crisis, the Danish market responded with a lot of enthusiasm. The collection
was immediately bought by some of the best fashion and design stores, including Rue Verte, Normann Copenhagen and Illums Bolighus, and soon Naledi started popping up in the hands of celebrities, including the Crown Princess Mary of Denmark.
SCOUTING ARTISAN MANUFACTURING AROUND THE GLOBE As the brand grew, the network of our suppliers became much more international, and today spans from Cape Town to Milan, from Kashmir to Alicante. Suppliers are chosen personally by Natalka and Mary, where the preference is still given to small artisan studios, who share our vision of sustainable luxury and our code of ethics. The same applies to our choice of materials and leathers. We travel the world to find the best of the best, always setting quality, service and trust above price. Knowing personally the people who make our products, their stories and aspirations, is hugely important and fills our work with a lot of meaning and joy. RETAILERS Today Naledi Copenhagen is sold in around 30 exclusive boutiques and high end department stores in Denmark. Apart from home ground, Naledi Copenhagen is sold in Norway, Sweden, Singapore and China. Naledi Copenhagen designs two main collections per year, and a number of smaller collections. The bags are available not only in ostrich, but also in other carefully chosen exclusive and sustainable leathers, as a curated collection called Gallery by Naledi. Ostrich remains our signature leather, which we continue to source exclusively in South Africa. In addition to bags, Naledi designs luxury scarves, to be worn on their own or as a coordinating item with the bags for a perfectly pulled together look. 61
Article by Jane Prais Edited by Joan Woodford
LAUNCHING YOUR MULTI BRAND STORE?
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THINGS YOU SHOULD KEEP IN MIND.
The first thing to define when opening your own multi brand store is to identify your target audience and a niche clientele. In practice, new retailers happen to select collections randomly by their own preference, despite boutique concept and target audience. Entering your boutique the client should feel that he got into the place similar to his style and all the pieces, regardless whether it is a dress, a bag or shoes can be easily compiled in a single look with the single message.
D E F I N E T H E I S S U E B E F O R E YO U S TA R T
Your client category and age.
Average clientele sizes.
Corresponding price category. Recommendably, do not sell dresses, pricing 100 EUR and 2 500 EUR in the same store. Select basic garments for sale.These items are sold faster and bring most of the incomes. If you lack decent experience in fashion retail, hire the company, representing a wide number of brands and able to choose the right selection for your boutique and develop the concept.
Make sure that the customer, entering your boutique can create a total look, starting from shoes, finishing with the bag. Try to find and sell unique garments, retailers hunt for the new brands, offering high quality unique pieces. Try to make a research what brands your competitors carry. Do not buy the same brands competing with your neighbours. Pay attention to details. Personally, when I decide, whether to enter the boutique or not – I judge by looking at visual display merchandise. A second test is when I enter the boutique, I pay attention to visual merchandise inside: if there is enough space for each brand presented there or you rather placed so many items in your boutique that looking at it feels like you lack the fresh air. It is better to have less, but well presented than a lot of garments without a clear vision for the customer what he can buy. Too much is not always good. Make sure that the smell in the boutique is light enough. It serves as the unconscious essence connecting the client with your boutique. Then next time he feels the similar notes, he will remind of your boutique, where he first felt the smell.
Sales managers should be very friendly and well trained. Make sure they know about each brand your boutique carries and that they can help a client with styling and advice, in case needed.
If possible, be ready to offer your client a glass of water or a cup of coffee and explain them the history of the boutique, the visionary and the concept, etc.
Note that packaging and branding is important, representing the corporate image.
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www.fashionpolitique.com
THE GINDI GROUP With 50 years of vast experience in development, the Gindi Group is a leading international real estate player involved in development and management of hundreds of thousands sqm of commercial areas and shopping malls, and dozens of thousands of residential units in luxury towers and neighborhoods all over Israel and Europe.
Tel Aviv, July 28, 2015 - From October 18 - 21, 2015 Gindi Group is once again hosting Tel Aviv Fashion Week in the center of Startup Nation’s business capital, only a few months before the official opening of Israel’s most luxurious and invested fashion compound. Since its relaunch in 2011, Gindi Tel Aviv Fashion Week has hosted internationally famed designers such as Roberto Cavalli and Missoni as guests of honor that presented their collections to the local fashion scene and foreign press. Following up on last years’ success, Gindi Tel Aviv Fashion Week 2015 will expose the latest trends in Israel’s couture scene to an international audience during four content filled days, featuring leading Israeli designers such as Alon Livne, Dodo Bar Or and Gideon Oberson among others. “This year’s Gindi Tel Aviv Fashion Week will open with a spectacular Gala Event on October 18th as a unique celebration of Israeli fashion innovation with an international touch”, said Motty Reif, the founder and head producer of Tel Aviv Fashion Week. “We look forward to host over 30,000 visitors and a delegation of over 100 journalists from top international fashion & lifestyle media in Tel Aviv. 65
Glamorous wedding
RISH by Yoav Rish
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Article by Anna la Germaine Edited by Joan Woodford
VIRTUAL MARKETPLACES CHANGING
THE GAME OF FASHION BUSINESS!
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( B 2 C ) PA R T I Future economic growth comes from innovations we introduce today. Upon this virtual marketplaces have by far greater chances of successfully delivering any business concept. New technology is released every day and everywhere, as the next generation expects the latest ground-breaking innovations to change the world today. According to Charles Darwin: “It is not the strongest of the species that survive, nor the most intelligent, but the one most responsive to change.” While seeking for fundamental innovations, we have to admit that brand new global approaches, despite having undisputedly winning strategy, radically transform both supply chains and business connections within the market and in the outcome result in significant economic growth. Although, it takes time to meet the expectations of benefits from sales via virtual marketplaces it is well worth the effort. Upon strong market positions of the established brands, people get used to buy products that are widely recognized, that is the reason why new brands often struggle to conquer their own target audience.When joining the virtual marketplace, new brands critically need to obtain brand credibility on the market in order to become reliable partners. Virtual marketplace is the alternative innovation that allows big businesses to work together, as well as start-up companies helping them to create solutions
to the challenges they struggle. Pooling their strengths and practices together results in new competitive solutions and ground-breaking, inspirational approaches to making business. When deciding whether to launch own e-commerce the brands should consider how to balance the interests of both parties, including their re-sellers and partners. The emerging brands should be aware of the fact that the brand pricing policy should be built in the way that does not compete among their distributors channels.Entering virtual marketplaces is the essential way of bringing the brand additional estimated results, as the brand will be introduced within considerably bigger customers’ community involving new markets expansion. It’s not enough for the brand to create own e-commerce site, drive traffic to it and expect customers to buy from you, as the traffic does not equal sales. This is one of the most crucial points designers and brands should consider. Designer and brands while working with virtual marketplaces, get the exquisite opportunity to transmit the brand’s message and to present their products globally in the best possible way.This keen fact directly affects the brands sales, and also adds value to the brand’s image.The brands that are not focused on selling online in such a way restrict their clients and manage not customer-friendly approach. While seeking for fast growing sales, selling online is the fastest way of entering new markets. Virtual marketplaces gain success in making global sales due to permanent concentration on direct integrated communication with the customers and hiring experienced sales team. To build an effective sales team means to assemble the right mix of specialized talents. Then they have to cultivate the trusting relationships with the clients.
TO BE CONTINUED… 73
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Photo by Jaroslav Monchak
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Photo by Jaroslav Monchak
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Photo by Jaroslav Monchak
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AMBER LOUNGE
Amber Lounge Entrance
brings Monte-Carlo Glamour to Mexico City Amber Lounge to Debut Iconic F1 Party in Mexico City for 2015 Mexican Grand Prix For the first time ever, Amber Lounge, THE Original F1™ Experience, will host 3 nights of glamorous F1 parties in Mexico City, celebrating the widely anticipated return of the Mexican Grand Prix. With an energy and fiesta spirit unlike any other nightlife event, Amber Lounge Mexico City will provide infinite possibilities to explore the lavish lifestyle surrounding F1. In its 13th year at the forefront of Formula 1 entertainment, Amber Lounge has catered to the world’s most influential celebrities and royalty- from Prince Harry of Wales, to Kim Kardashian and Justin Bieber. Since its inception in 2003, Amber Lounge has been the most frequented party destination for the F1 fraternity. In 2014, all three Monaco GP podium winners Nico Rosberg, Lewis Hamilton, and Daniel Ricciardo celebrate at Amber Lounge along with 18 other F1 drivers. Lewis Hamilton and the Mercedes Team also celebrated his second World Championship victory at Amber Lounge Abu Dhabi for the final Grand Prix race of the F1 season. “I’m so excited to bring Amber Lounge to Mexico City”, says Sonia Irvine, founder of Amber Lounge. “After a 23-year absence, the Mexican people are charged with anticipation for the return of the Mexican GP and I can’t wait to share the exhilarating Amber Lounge event with them. I promise it will be an unforgettable weekend!” 82
For 3 exciting nights, Amber Lounge will take over a secured area in the heart of Polanco, one of the most glamorous and upscale areas in Mexico City and will transform the traditional event space Casino Campo Marte into a breath-taking, one-of-a-kind nightlife venue to accommodate A-list celebrities, F1 drivers and the VIP international jet set. On Friday 30th, Saturday 31st October, and Sunday 1st November, guests will be able to celebrate at Amber Lounge with electrifying live performances from global artists and DJs, a captivating fashion show with international supermodels, and free-flowing premium beverages all night long, all whilst hitting the dance floor with their favorite F1teams and their drivers. Before heading to Mexico City, Amber Lounge will host spectacular events in Monaco & Singapore and finish the F1 season with the finale race after party in Abu Dhabi. Amber Lounge Monaco, the first of the four events in the year, will include a glamorous Fashion Show featuring F1 drivers on the runway, first-class dining and live entertainment, and a weekend-long party extravaganza not to be missed. For more information on Amber Lounge, visit: www.amber-lounge.com To book tickets and tables, visit: http://www.amber-lounge.com/content/book-tickets or contact: enquiries@amber-lounge.com
* Amber Lounge Fashion was launched in 2006, under the patronage of HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco, to raise funds for notable charities. The Amber Lounge Fashion show has showcased luxury designs from major fashion labels including Missoni, Matthew Williamson, Julien Macdonald, Hervé Léger, Hugo Boss, Chopard, TAG Heuer, Jimmy Choo and Elizabeth Hurley Beach. The event has become an established favourite with the world’s media and celebrity social elite. For 2015, Amber Lounge Fashion will host its catwalk show in Monaco, Singapore, and Mexico City. Beyond the style and the high-profile media attention, Amber Lounge Fashion has raised more than $4 million for charitable organizations including the Special Olympics, the Elton John AIDS Foundation, and the Nelson Mandela Children’s Fund. Amber Lounge Hospitality has been specializing in creating unique experiences around F1 Grand Prix for nearly 20 years. In Monaco and Abu Dhabi, Amber Lounge hospitality hosts unrivalled race viewing on-board luxury tri-deck yachts. Amber Lounge Hospitality clients also enjoy a world of exclusivity only available to a select few – a meet and greet with the F1 drivers and enjoy the race from a team’s perspective. Amber Lounge Hospitality also hosts private events and ultimate weekend experiences for individuals, companies and VIPs. 83
Necklace by Lily & Dahlia
Colar pins by MILIUS Milan Stamenovic
Bag by VĂ„SKA Bags
Sunglasses by PRAY Eyewear
Shoes by Mauron 1959
Earrings by MILIUS Milan Stamenovic
Lipgloss by BY SWIERCZ
Ring by Hagar Satat
Scarf by Magdalena Mieszkowska
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Pumps by Liam Fahy
Sunglasses by Rogue Eyewear
Bracelet by Hagar Satat
Scarf by SASHA Berry
Pin by MILIUS Milan Stamenovic
Clutch by Dominika Swiacka
Bracelet by Montrose
Earrings by Lily&Dahlia
Nailpolish by BY SWIERCZ
Backpack by MeDusa
Brogues by Luke Grant-Muller
Bag by VĂ„SKA bags
Bracelet by MILIUS Milan Stamenovic
85
Ring by Noy Alon
Bag by Juana Martin
Bracelet by Elan Bijoux
Make up brushes by BY SWIERCZ
Clutch by FANASKII
Necklace by Gregory Larin
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Shoes by Imelda
Nailpolish by BY SWIERCZ
Earrings by Hagar Satat
Beauty products by 1001 Remedies
Necklace by Hagar Satat
Bag by JUD TLV
Clutch by MIQUE Design
Ring by Hagar Satat
Lipstick by BY SWIERCZ
Sunglasses by Rogue Eyewear Shoes by Imelda
Necklace by Hagar Satat
Earrings by Hagar Satat
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Article by Jane Prais Edited by Joan Woodford
OVERCOMING PRODUCTION CHALLENGES FOR UPCOMING BRANDS
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duction, starting from small factories that could satisfy their minimum order requirements?
Lately, Allée Germaine and Fashion Politique have started collaboration with LA.TE, a new Italian company that caters to young designers and emerging brands. Our team is always open to collaboration within new projects and concepts and seeks for cooperation with new companies, especially those, who are pioneers in their niche. LA.TE deals to produce high quality collections in their atelier and deploys them directly in retail network, following the designers at all stages. LA.TE was born from an Atelier with thirty years of experience in the world of international fashion. A family business that has now become a multi-purpose laboratory dedicated to a new way of working in the fashion industry, with the goal of breaking all the walls that an emerging designer has normally to face alone. In the atelier in Novara (just 40 minutes from Milan) LA.TE provides designers with a complete suite of fashion design. LA.TE is an OPEN atelier (by appointment): designers are always welcome to supervise the production process of their collections and deal with the experienced team. LA.TE represents a bridge between the talent and the fashion industry. We have decided to set collaboration with LA.TE in the following directions:
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Samples sewing services and collections (manufacturing) production for the brands we collaborate with. Recently, we have interviewed Thomas Drischel, Founder of Robert Kerr and Former General Manager at Galeries Lafayette. We have discussed the challenges designer face during production cycle:
T.D.: Production and delivery are obviously main issues that a young brand can face when notoriety and sales are exploding. So many young brands are not prepared to face sudden success and didn’t anticipate enough their production chain and sourcing. When you start and don’t have a lot of money to inject into stocks and production, it’s very complicated to launch big production. Like you said, there are always some minimum order requirements and incompressible time. In that sense, the only way to face this problem is to find some little “handcraft” or “family” workshops that are able to satisfy your request. It’s also a perfect way to set long-term and trustful relations with such factories, as they will always be there to support you in the future if you have some production issues. Once again, the outsourcing manufacturing strategy depends on the level and quality confection that your brand requires. It will be totally different if you propose some cheap and mass items compare to some luxury and handcrafted collection. The full interview is available here: www.annalagermaine.com
2
LA.TE has recently launched a new showroom in Milan. On this matter, we plan to hold mutual press days for the brands Allée Germaine collaborates with. Up till now we keep discussing the mutual objectives for collaboration between LA.TE and Fashion Politique and will release updates as soon as they arrive.
A.la.G.: In your opinion, should designers seek for outsourcing manufacturing for samples and collections pro-
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www.robert-kerr.com
www.miguelmarinero.com www.allee-germaine.com/miguel-marinero
www.monchak.net
Ja r os l a v M on c h ak
NITYA CHANDRA
www.nityachandra.com
LIST OF THE NAMES: A Avaro Figlio www.avarofiglio.com
26-27
B by SWIERCZ www.byswiercz.com 19,20,84,85,86,87 C Cristiano Burani www.cristianoburani.it 5 D 10decoart www.10decoart.com 20 De Siena www.desienashoes.com 20 Dominika Swiacka www.dominikaswiacka.com 85
M Magdalena Mieszkowska www.magdalenamieszkowska.com 16.17, 84 Matteo Volta www.matteovolta.com 2-3, 32-37 Mauron 1959 www.mauron1959.it 84 Maya Hansen www.mayahansen.com 21 MeDusa www.me-dusa.com 21 Miguel Marinero www.miguelmarinero.com MILIUS Milan Stamenovic 18-19, 21, 84-85 Miss Garcia www.missgarcia.es 19, 101 Montrose 85
E Élan Bijoux www.elanbijoux.com 86 Emanuel Ungaro www.ungaro.com 22-23
N Naledi Copenhagen www.naledicopenhagen.com Nitya Chandra www.nityachandra.com 21 Noy Alon www.noyalon.com 86
F Fanaskii www.fanaskii.co.uk
O Olga Frua www.olgafrua.com 96
4, 24-25, 99
G Gregory Larin www.gregory-larin.com 86 H Hagar Satat www.allee-germaine.com/hagar-satat 20,84-85 I Imelda 21 Inbar Shapira 18 J Jaroslav Monchak www.monchak.net 74-81,94-95 Juana Martín www.juanamartin.net 86 JUD TLV www.judtlv.com 87 L Liam Fahy www.liamfahy.com 84 Lily&Dahlia www.allee-germaine.com/lily-dahlia 21,84 Ludmila Navarro www.ludmilanavarro.com 42 Luke Grant-Muller www.lukegrantmuller.co.uk 1 8
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18-20, 40
P Persy www.persy.com 18, 20-21 Pray Eyewear www.prayeyewear.com 84 R 1001 Remedies www.1001remedies.com 87 RISH by Yoav Rish www.yoavrish.com 18-20, 66-71 Robert Kerr www.robert-kerr.com 44-47, 90-91 Rogue Eyewear www.rogue-eyewear.com 19, 84,85, 87 S SAHA Swimwear www.sahaswimwear.com 100 San Andres Milano (Andres Caballero) www.sanandresmilano.com 28,57,59 Sasha Berry www.sashaberry.com 11, 85 SWAROVSKI www.swarovski.com 18,21 V Väska www.vaskabags.com 84-85
C O M I N G S O O N O N W W W. A L L E E - G E R M A I N E . C O M
www.sahaswimwear.com
C O M I N G S O O N O N W W W. A L L E E - G E R M A I N E . C O M
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