Scoo Brew Kombucha is a 100% all natural, FRESH kombucha handcrafted in Cairns, flavoured with 100% real fruit, no essences, oils, concentrates, extracts, added sugar, preservatives or stevia, just the way
They say you can’t have your cake and eat it too—but here in Far North Queensland, we’ve got mangoes, reef fish, tropical beef, and the occasional rum-spiked pudding, and we’re managing just fine, thank you very much.
This past year has reminded us—yet again— that resilience isn’t just a buzzword in the tropics. It’s a way of life. Between floods, freight costs, labour shortages and economic yo-yos, our food and beverage community has faced more than its fair share of curveballs. But rather than whinge or wilt, they’ve rolled up their sleeves, got creative, and delivered some of the most extraordinary produce and plates you’ll find anywhere in the country—if not the world.
Here in FNQ, we’re not interested in food that’s travelled 3,000 kilometres in a refrigerated truck. We’d rather it came from 30 minutes down the road. We’re surrounded by abundance: reef fish still twitching with freshness, tropical fruit bursting with juice, pasture-fed meats from the Tablelands, and more varieties of chilli than you can sensibly fit into one chutney.
Our chefs know it. Our farmers live it. And our community is increasingly backing it.
This edition of FNQ Food Magazine is all about celebrating the clever, stubborn brilliance of our food producers—the ones who’ve weathered the storms (both literal and economic), adapted to “the new normal” (whatever that is this week), and kept us all fed with flavour, flair, and no small amount of local pride.
We profile growers turning adversity into opportunity, fishers who know every swell by scent, and chefs doing more with less—and doing it beautifully. We also delve into the big issues: food miles, climate hiccups, and why we should be proud to eat what’s grown, caught, raised or brewed right here.
It’s not all farm-to-fork earnestness, though. There’s joy in this region’s food—sunshine on a plate, generosity in a glass, and the kind of laid-back excellence that reminds us why we live here in the first place.
So whether you’re a visitor getting a taste of the tropics, or a proud local plotting your next long lunch, we hope this issue gives you a fresh reason to explore, support, and celebrate FNQ’s remarkable food scene.
Because yes, times are tough—but so are we. And honestly, when you’ve got prawns this fresh and pineapples this sweet, you’ve already won.
David Leith Editor
A note from the
EDITOR
Editor/Publisher | David Leith
Executive Editor | Jodie Ferrero
Designer | Liagi Mateo
Photographs supplied by FrontRow Foto
Jody Simpson Photography
Peter George Photography
The Raw Photographer Peppermint Lane
With thanks to Tourism Tropical North Queensland
Printed in Queensland by Print Works Qld Pty Ltd 90 Basalt St, Geebung 4034
Published by FNQ Media Pty Ltd 211 Hartley Street, Cairns 4870
Distribution enquiries - distribution@fnqfood.com.au
Welcome to the 2025 edition of FNQ Food Magazine—our annual tribute to the people, produce, and places that define the food and drink culture of Far North Queensland.
This magazine is more than a showcase; it’s a rallying point for our region’s vibrant and ever-evolving food scene. To represent this community—its producers, chefs, distillers, artisans, restaurateurs, and café owners—is a privilege we never take for granted. Their work nourishes us, drives tourism, supports our economy, and shapes our identity. Each year, these pages bring us together to recognise achievements, spotlight leaders, and honour everything that makes this such a rich and diverse destination.
One of the greatest joys of creating this magazine is collaborating with the incredible people who bring FNQ’s food scene to life. Many featured here are not just colleagues but friends. Their passion is infectious, and their commitment to our region shines through every plate, bottle, and conversation. Together, we’ve crafted something that truly reflects the spirit of FNQ—deeply local, proudly collaborative, and full of heart.
To our contributors, supporters, and the wider food community: thank you for allowing us to tell your stories and share in your successes. To our readers: thank you for returning to these pages to explore, uncover, and support local. Inside, you’ll find a curated journey through the kitchens, bars, paddocks, and farms of FNQ. We hope it fills you with pride, hunger, and joy.
With gratitude,
at the time of publishing.
are not able to take responsibility or liability for any loss or damage caused by material received in good faith from contributors, advertisers or other sources. This magazine contains sponsored content, and although every effort is made to ensure that all information is current, up to date and correct, errors will sometimes occur. It is a requirement of acceptance that editorial, advertising and sponsored content should not be defamatory, untruthful or misleading. All conditions, rates, specifications and policies are subject to change without notice. Expressed or implied authors’ and advertisers’ opinions are not necessarily those of the publisher.
All material produced and/or published by FNQ Food Magazine in electronic, printed or other format is subject to copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the express written permission of the publisher. The advertiser assumes all responsibility for attaining copyright permission for any material or components not produced by FNQ Food Magazine. Full advertising terms and conditions of acceptance are available at www.FNQMedia.com.au
Executive Editor – FNQ Food Magazine
WELCOME TO THE FOOD & DRINK
It begins with a flood—not just of water, but of ingenuity, courage, and relentless tenacity. This past year, Far North Queensland has felt the force of nature in all its fury, from once-in-a-lifetime inundations to the slow-burn toll of rising costs and shifting seasons. And yet, here we are. Plates still brimming. Glasses still raised. Markets still bustling with the colour and character that define this place. The food and drink of FNQ aren’t just sustaining life—they’re telling stories. Stories of survival, adaptation, celebration, and a defiant refusal to be anything less than extraordinary.
From the ancient red soils of the Tablelands to the aquamarine glimmer of the Coral Sea, this region continues to astonish not just with what it produces, but with how it carries on—bravely, creatively, and deliciously. Here, black pepper is grown commercially in Silkwood—something you won’t find anywhere else in the country. We pull pristine tuna from local waters and jar it within kilometres of the coast. Our dairy is thick and golden from the rolling pastures of Millaa Millaa; our honey captures the essence of the rainforest; our chocolate begins its life not in a European factory, but in a tropical grove just beyond the Great Dividing Range.
What sets FNQ apart isn’t only its variety—it’s the intimacy of its food system. Our food miles are among the shortest in the world. When you eat here, you are part of a direct line between grower, maker, and plate. You taste not just flavour, but proximity, immediacy, relationship. And it’s not all fine dining and
accolades—though, truth be told, we’ve earned our fair share. It’s also breakfast on a sun-drenched veranda in Yungaburra, barefoot bites in Palm Cove, smoky brisket from a food truck parked beside a cane field, or the fizz of a kombucha poured fresh at Rusty’s.
FNQ’s food culture is less about trends and more about tenacity. The people behind it— our producers, chefs, baristas, brewers, distillers, marketeers, and hosts—are not just creative; they’re courageous. They’ve weathered storms literal and economic. They’ve watched crops rot, fridges fail, and bookings vanish. And then, incredibly, they’ve rebuilt. They’ve reimagined. They’ve replanted. And the result is a culinary scene that is deeper, stronger, and more rooted in place than ever before.
This year, FNQ Food Magazine celebrates that resilience—not in spite of hardship, but because of it. In these pages you’ll meet seasoned chefs returning to basics, young entrepreneurs redefining what it means to “go local,” and family farms proving that small scale can still mean big flavour. You’ll find stories of risk and reward, of quiet triumphs, and of the kind of community spirit that only hard times can forge.
There’s excellence here, yes—but not the polished kind you see in luxury brochures. This is excellence born of doing things the hard way: of harvesting in the rain, of bottling by hand, of waking before dawn to beat the heat. It’s the kind of excellence that tastes like something: rich, rare, unforgettable.
We invite you—first-timer or old hand, curious tourist or proud local—to use this issue as your compass. Whether you’re tracing food trails through the hinterland, sipping your way along the coast, or simply wandering Rusty’s with a basket and an appetite, there is always something new to discover. Let your palate be your guide. Ask questions. Meet the makers. Try the thing you’ve never heard of. And above all, take your time.
So welcome—again or for the first time—to the food and drink of Far North Queensland. A region where the rainforest meets the reef, where the paddock kisses the plate, and where every bite tells a story worth hearing.
And if you can, take your shoes off. You’ll want to feel this place with your whole self.
Look out for QR codes throughout this magazine, which will direct you to more information about the accompanying articles. On this page the QR code will take you to our website, where you can sign up for our regular email newsletter and stay updated with everything FNQ Food!
FNQ Food Magazine, Your what’s where, how and who for Food and Drink in FNQ
Food Events
From lush hinterlands to the sparkling Coral Sea, Far North Queensland doesn’t just grow the best ingredients in the country – it knows how to celebrate them too. Our region plays host to a calendar packed with food and drink events that showcase the exceptional bounty of the tropics, while connecting growers, chefs, producers and enthusiastic eaters in one delicious ecosystem. Here’s a guide to the essential festivals and foodie gatherings for 2025 and 2026.
Cairns Italian Festival - La Festa
Date: July - August
Location: Fogarty Park, Cairns City
Part of the popular Cairns Italian Festival, La Festa is a joyful explosion of flavour, culture and community. With authentic Italian food, regional wines, live music and family-friendly activities, it’s a delicious day out that brings Europe to the Esplanade. www.cairnsitalianfestival.com.au
Salt House Food and Wine Festival
Date: August
Location: Salt House, Cairns
Set against a marina backdrop, this boutique food and wine festival features top local and national winemakers, distillers and chefs. An elegant, tropical afternoon of tastings, talks and toasts. www.salthouse.com.au
TASTE Port Douglas
Date: August
Location: Port Douglas
Taste Port Douglas is one of Australia’s premier culinary events, showcasing the region’s best produce over a four-day programme of exceptional cooking and unforgettable dining experiences. The Festival gives guests the opportunity to learn from some of the industry’s most talented chefs and producers across Australia and the globe. www.tasteportdouglas.com.au
Cairns Festival
Date: August – September
Location: Cairns
While not solely a food event, the Cairns Festival is a celebration of all things local—culture, art, performance and, yes, some excellent food. With food trucks, local vendors, and evening events incorporating local fare, it’s the perfect place to grab a bite and take in the best of FNQ creativity. www.cairns.qld.gov.au/festival
Feast of the Senses
Date: March
Location: Innisfail
Tropical fruit lovers rejoice. Feast of the Senses is a unique showcase of the exotic fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices that grow in abundance across the Cassowary Coast. Expect a market day extravaganza, local farm tours, tastings, and a deliciously vibrant community atmosphere. www.feastofthesenses.com.au
Cairns Craft Beer Festival
Date: April
Location: Hemingway’s Brewery, Cairns Wharf
Experience the Cairns Craft Beer Festival! Celebrate local and regional brewers with bold craft beers, waterfront vibes, and live music. Featuring top breweries from Far North Queensland: Macalister, Copperlode, Billycart, Maggie Island, and Hemingway’s. A perfect day for beer lovers and good times in tropical paradise. www.hemingwaysbrewery.com
Port Douglas Carnivale
Date: May
Location: Port Douglas
From street parades to seafood festivals, Carnivale is a rollicking weekend that combines gourmet events, live entertainment and an unbeatable beachside setting. The event is well known for its food, music, and overall festive atmosphere, attracting local and international visitors. www.carnivale.com.au
Whether you’re here for a tropical escape or lucky enough to live in FNQ year-round, these events offer the perfect chance to savour the region’s finest flavours and connect with the passionate people behind them. Don’t forget to bring your appetite—and perhaps a widebrimmed hat.
The Raw Photographer Peppermint Lane
Local Legends:
Celebrating Far North Queensland’s Food Artisans
Far North Queensland is renowned for its vibrant and abundant food culture, where quality meets incredible diversity. This region produces an impressive range of ingredients and flavours that reflect its rich natural landscape. In the pages ahead, we’ll showcase some of the standout products born from this extraordinary place. Whether you’re looking to add something special to your weekly shop or take home a tasty reminder of your travels, these local treasures offer a delicious taste of FNQ—no matter how quickly they disappear!
DAINTREE TEA – CAPE TRIBULATION
Black Tea from the Rainforest
This pesticide-free black tea is produced at the Cubbagudta Plantation near Cape Tribulation since 1978. Daintree Tea thrives in the red alluvial soils and high rainfall of the Daintree Rainforest. Grown without chemicals and processed within 24 hours of harvest, the tea is smooth, earthy, and low in tannins. Available in both loose leaf and tea bags, it’s vegan, gluten-free, and distinctly local. With a commitment to natural farming, Daintree Tea offers a pure product beloved by tea connoisseurs and tourists alike—sold at the farmgate, roadside stalls, cafés, and online.
AUSSIE PEPPER: THE SPICE OF SILKWOOD
Australia’s Only Commercial Black Pepper
Aussie Pepper is Australia’s only commercial black pepper, grown in Silkwood. Originally planted in the late 1980s, the farm’s 5,000 hand-harvested plants yield sundried, pesticide-free pepper renowned for its bold, clean flavour. Grown with sustainable methods—using parasitic wasps for pest control—this FNQ spice is sold through IGAs and gourmet retailers nationwide. Aussie Pepper has become a kitchen essential, celebrated not only for its robust taste, but for its commitment to environmentally responsible farming.
FEEL GOOD BANANAS – MISSION BEACH
The Healthy Ice Cream Alternative
Founded in Mission Beach, Feel Good Bananas transforms locally grown organic bananas into delicious, chocolate-dipped frozen snacks. Based in Mission Beach, the bananas are hand-cut, flash-frozen, and coated in organic chocolate—delivering an ice-cream-like treat that’s dairy-free, nutritious, and eco-friendly. Produced using solar power and packed in biodegradable materials, Feel Good Bananas are stocked across Australia, often outselling traditional frozen desserts. McGrath’s focus on sustainability, reducing food waste, and supporting FNQ farmers has created a treat that’s as good for the planet as it is for your taste buds.
CHARLEY’S AUSTRALIAN CHOCOLATE –MISSION BEACH
Tree to Bar Excellence
Experts at crafting award-winning chocolate directly from locally grown cocoa. Their single-origin bars offer a diverse flavour range, while additions like Davidson Plum, Lemon Myrtle, and Macadamia showcase regional ingredients. Processed onsite for complete quality control, Charley’s chocolate is ethically made, intensely flavoured, and proudly Australian. From plantation tours to online sales, Charley’s blends fine craftsmanship with the unique tastes of FNQ, earning international accolades and loyal fans across the country.
FENGLEHORN – CAIRNS
Handcrafted Chilli Sauces
Founded in Cairns, Fenglehorn showcases the vibrant flavours of Australiangrown chillies. These handcrafted sauces and rubs contain no thickeners, preservatives, or fillers—just over 95% local produce and natural heat. Standouts like the Woosty Sheer and Sweet Chilli Sauces are low in sugar and high in flavour, appealing to home cooks and food lovers alike. Fenglehorn’s dedication to quality has landed export deals to the U.S., earning a loyal following both domestically and abroad. Each bottle reflects the passion and spice of Far North Queensland. Find them at Rusty’s Markets and local retailers across the region.
ISABEL’S SWEET CHILLI CHUTNEYS –MILLAA MILLAA
Family Recipe, Local Flavour
Handcrafted in Millaa Millaa using all-natural ingredients and local produce, Isabel’s Sweet Chilli Chutneys are available in six different heat levels. These vegan-friendly chutneys add flavour and personality to everything from sandwiches to cheese boards. With no chemicals or preservatives, Isabel’s products reflect her passion for clean, homemade food and her deep roots in FNQ. Whether used as a dip, marinade, or sauce, these chutneys bring a punch of flavour and a hint of heat that have made them a beloved staple across the region.
MISTY MOUNTAINS MILK –ATHERTON TABLELANDS
Creamy Goodness from Jersey Cows
Produced on the Atherton Tablelands, Misty Mountains Milk comes from Jersey cows known for rich, nutrient-dense milk. It’s gently processed to preserve its natural cream layer and high content of vitamins, calcium, and butterfat. The range includes full cream, low cream, and lactose-free options—ideal for healthconscious consumers. Misty Mountains supports sustainable farming with low food miles and fair pay for producers. Delicious, nutritious, and proudly local, it’s a milk of choice for households and cafés across Far North Queensland.
JAQUES COFFEE –MAREEBA
Innovation from Bean to Cup Jaques Coffee Plantation in Mareeba spans over 85,000 Arabica trees. Known for pioneering Coffee Shuttle One—the world’s first mechanical harvester—the family revolutionised Australian coffee production. Today, their estate offers a full agritourism experience, including a licensed café, roastery, and plantation tours. Visitors can sip freshly brewed espresso while overlooking FNQ’s rich volcanic soil and learn how beans go from farm to cup. Jaques Coffee is a legacy of innovation, flavour, and hospitality grown in the tropics.
SWEET BUZZ HONEY – RAINFOREST EDGE
Raw, Unpasteurised Honey
Produced by Honey Providore, Sweet Buzz Honey is harvested from beehives near FNQ’s World Heritagelisted rainforests. This unpasteurised honey is 100% raw and captures the floral diversity of tropical blossoms like lilly pilly, mango, and macadamia. Available in jars and honeycomb, it’s a versatile pantry staple with a distinct regional taste. The producers champion sustainable beekeeping and support local apiarists. Sweet Buzz is not just honey—it’s a golden taste of FNQ’s pristine wilderness, made with care and buzzing with flavour.
GALLO DAIRYLAND – ATHERTON
Cheese and Chocolate from the Tablelands Gallo Dairyland in Atherton produces award-winning cheese and handcrafted Swiss-style chocolates. Using milk from their own Jersey and Friesian herd, they craft over 15 cheese varieties—from smooth brie to macadamiainfused cheddar. Their on-site chocolate kitchen offers truffles and bars made from premium couverture chocolate. Visitors can enjoy tastings, a licensed café, and even a petting zoo. Gallo Dairyland blends traditional techniques with FNQ flair, making it a must-stop for locals and tourists chasing gourmet excellence in the tropics.
KURANDA COOKIES – FAR NORTH QUEENSLAND
A Taste of Tradition
Established over 35 years ago, Kuranda Cookies are handmade using local ingredients like Wondaree Macadamias, free-range eggs, and Swiss chocolate. With gluten-free options and old-school charm, these artisan cookies are beloved across FNQ and beyond. Whether paired with tea or savoured solo, each bite offers a nostalgic nod to Kuranda’s culinary culture, baked fresh in Far North Queensland.
CRATER MOUNTAIN COFFEE – UPPER BARRON
Australia’s Highest-Altitude Coffee
Crater Mountain Coffee is grown on volcanic slopes at 1,040 m in Upper Barron—the highestaltitude coffee farm in Australia. Since planting began in 2017, their operation has expanded to some 30,000 trees, producing awardwinning beans that compete on the global stage. Employing innovative fermentation (including wine and champagne yeasts), gravityfed irrigation, and Reefcertified land practices, Crater Mountain Coffee crafts clean, fruity Arabica coffees. With medium roasts showing chocolate-nutty depth and filter blends offering crisp clarity, Crater Mountain is grown, processed, roasted, and sold on-site—a true farm-to-cup model. Open by appointment only.
Amanda Hargrave and the Iconic Rise of Scoo Brew Kombucha Queen:
If you’ve ever wandered through Rusty’s Markets on a steamy Cairns morning, chances are you’ve passed a neon-tinted stall that hums with conversation and the occasional delighted gasp of a first-time taster. This is the home of Scoo Brew Kombucha and its founder, Amanda Hargrave—an iconic local businesswoman whose blend of authenticity, regional commitment, and gut health evangelism has turned a humble fermented tea into one of Far North Queensland’s most influential small-batch success stories.
Amanda never set out to become a beverage maker. After beating breast cancer in 2009–10 and later learning she carried the BRCA gene — putting her at higher risk of other cancers — she felt a strong pull to focus on long-term health. In 2016, she began exploring natural ways to support her well-being and discovered the ancient practice of fermentation. By January 2017, she was brewing her first batch of kombucha, planting
the seed for a journey that would change her life. What started as a personal experiment quickly grew into a local favourite, and by the end of that year she was producing 50 litres a week, sharing it with friends, family, and the wider Cairns community through Rusty’s Markets.
Today, Scoo Brew is available in over 200 stockists across North Queensland, including cafes, grocers, and health food stores. But while its reach has grown, the ethos behind it remains deeply personal and proudly local. “If I can’t get it from Cairns, then I’ll get it from the region; if not the region, then within Queensland. If not there, then within Australia. Beyond that? I just won’t get it,” Amanda says, a mantra that underpins her entire operation.
That philosophy of regional integrity isn’t just about provenance—it’s about principle. Scoo Brew’s kombucha is made without artificial sweeteners,
preservatives, or stevia. Each brew is handcrafted, flavoured with real fruit and vegetables—carrot and turmeric, lemon and ginger, beetroot and apple—and fermented in small batches to preserve its live cultures, probiotics, and organic acids. It’s kombucha the way nature intended: fresh, effervescent, and vibrantly alive.
Amanda’s kombucha bar at Rusty’s has become something of a local institution—a kombucha taproom meets community classroom. She encourages sampling, chats with regulars about fermentation and flavour profiles, and gently demystifies gut health for the kombucha-curious. “It’s a bit like wine or craft beer,” she explains. “Every batch has its own character. I like when people mix flavours—lemon and ginger with apple beetroot is a crowd favourite.”
But Amanda’s influence goes far beyond what’s bottled. She is a torchbearer for food literacy and what she calls “practical health”—understanding what’s in your food, where it comes from, and how it can support your wellbeing. For her, kombucha is both a passion and a platform. “I used to pop into a pharmacy for a supplement without thinking twice. Now I ask: could I get this from real food instead?”
She is also a standout example of FNQ business grit—learning as she goes, mastering every facet of production, marketing, distribution, and education. From navigating rising freight and ingredient costs to offering bottle refills and pursuing low-waste practices, Amanda remains fiercely committed to sustainability without compromising on quality.
Her kombucha isn’t designed for mass-market homogeny—and that’s the point. She’s turned down overseas deals that would have required altering her recipe to extend shelf life. “That’s not what I started this for,” she says. “Scoo Brew is real, and it stays real.”
In a region often defined by agricultural export, Amanda’s choice to keep her footprint close to home is both strategic and philosophical. It’s about investing in the circular economy, supporting local farmers, and creating a product that feels as fresh and alive as the place it’s made.
As a business leader, Amanda is more than just the face of Scoo Brew—she’s a regional icon. Her journey from breast cancer survivor to kombucha pioneer is emblematic of the resilience and innovation that define FNQ’s food scene. She’s admired not only for what she makes, but for how she leads—with transparency, humour, and an unwavering belief in better.
“I’m 52 this year. I still camp, I still enjoy life, and I still drink beer,” she laughs. “But I also know that small changes matter. And if Scoo Brew helps someone feel a little better—physically or mentally—then I’ve done my job.”
In the fizz and ferment of Scoo Brew lies more than a beverage. It’s a philosophy, a way of life, and a Cairns success story that continues to inspire. Like all the best brews, it just gets better with time.
Scoo Brew Kombucha Bar, Rusty’s Markets,
The Flavour Diplomat:
Craig Squire’s FNQ Culinary Embassy in Cairns
Interview by David Leith
For three decades, Craig Squire has done what few chefs dare—he’s embedded himself in place, weathered the slow tides of change, and redefined what Australian cuisine can be from the steamy outpost of Cairns. In the story of Far North Queensland’s emergence as a serious food destination, Squire is less a chapter than a throughline—a driving force, a mentor, a provocateur, and, more than anything, a relentless believer in the land and its ingredients.
From his well-positioned vantage at Ochre Restaurant on the Cairns waterfront, Squire has curated what amounts to a culinary embassy: a space where native ingredients speak loudly and unapologetically, and where the tropics aren’t just a setting, but a larder and a muse.
“
The challenge is to make this food accessible and exciting, he says. Not just a novelty. This isn’t dress-up cooking. It’s the future.
Ochre is now one of the longest-standing independent restaurant of its kind in Australia. That’s not an accident. It’s the result of a stamina rarely seen in an industry obsessed with trends. Squire’s approach isn’t trendy; it’s tectonic. Over the years, he has nudged the region’s palate forward—introducing kangaroo to tourists, wattleseed to locals, and lemon myrtle to fine diners who once recoiled at the very mention of bush foods.
“When we first started, people thought we were mad,” Squire recalls. “No one wanted to eat crocodile or green ants. Now, it’s what they come for.” He pauses. “Although, green ants still aren’t exactly comfort food.”
Yet for all his pioneering, Squire is quick to deflect personal praise. His focus is outward—on producers, Indigenous partners, and the ecology of FNQ itself. “This region’s got it all,” he says. “World-class produce, wild flavours, an incredible cultural story. It’s just about getting people to see it.”
His career started with a youthful move from Kangaroo Island to the tropics, chasing the kind of raw material that could shape a unique cuisine. Over time, that early curiosity hardened into a mission: to define and defend a culinary language that is unmistakably local.
He speaks with equal passion about logistics and philosophy. On one hand, he’s deeply invested in how food gets to the plate—supporting local growers, pushing for more reliable native produce supply chains, and wrangling with regulators who still don’t quite know what to do with finger limes and bunya nuts. On the other, he’s driven by a belief that cooking is a form of storytelling: “It’s about making people taste something they didn’t know they were missing.”
Squire’s relationship with Indigenous communities has evolved alongside Ochre. What began as a fascination with native ingredients has grown into a respectful, ongoing collaboration—one marked by mentorship, shared knowledge, and practical support. “You can’t do this work without engaging with First Nations people,” he says. “They’re the original custodians of these flavours.”
It’s a philosophy that’s permeated the restaurant’s DNA. From commissioned Aboriginal artworks to training programs and pro bono consulting for Indigenous food ventures, Ochre is a platform as much as a restaurant.
And Squire, for all his accolades—including a Lifetime Achiever Award from the Restaurant and Caterers Association—remains restlessly ambitious. He sees FNQ not just as a food region, but as a culinary frontier. “We’ve only scratched the surface,” he says. “There’s a whole world of flavour here that the world hasn’t tasted yet.”
So what’s next? In classic Squire fashion, it’s a blend of the visionary and the practical. He talks of smarter supply chains, closer links between growers and chefs, and menus that reflect not just place, but season, history, and responsibility. He also hints at mentoring the next generation—passing the baton not in ceremony, but in mise en place.
“You’ve got to make it easier for the next mob,” he says. “We’ve done the hard yards. Time to smooth the path a bit—ideally without tripping over the bureaucracy.”
It’s that kind of visionary pragmatism—a blend of boots-on-the-ground realism and long-range dreaming—that makes Craig Squire so vital to the region.
He’s not chasing stars; he’s building systems. Not looking for trends; he’s laying down terroir.
In a time when ‘local’ is a marketing buzzword and ‘native’ risks being tokenised, Squire brings authenticity and depth. He cooks as if the place matters—because to him, it does.
And in doing so, he’s helped Far North Queensland find its voice on the plate. Not through noise, but through substance. Not through fusion, but through focus.
Craig Squire isn’t just feeding people. He’s feeding a movement—with a wry smile, a fierce palate, and a pantry full of possibilities.
The Reef Hotel Casino:
Cairns’ Ultimate Destination for Dining, Entertainment & Elegance
For over a quarter of a century, The Reef Hotel Casino has stood proudly in the heart of Cairns, a vibrant icon beloved by locals and visitors alike. More than just a hotel or a casino, it’s a multi-sensory destination where luxury, flavour, and entertainment converge — a shimmering jewel in tropical North Queensland’s crown.
From the moment you step through its doors, you’re transported. The foyer welcomes you like a plunge into a glittering ocean dream — with its dazzling digital tower and mesmerising floor aquarium, where spotting ‘Nemo’ is practically a rite of passage. Nautical-inspired details ripple throughout the venue: wave-shaped timber features line the walls and ceilings, while lustrous Paua shell accents bring a cool, calming shimmer to every corner.
Whether you’re in the mood for high-energy entertainment or a leisurely meal, The Reef Hotel Casino has something for every pace and palate. Catch the big game on the giant screens, dance to live acts — from homegrown favourites to international stars — or simply soak in the atmosphere over a drink with friends. Every visit is a night (or day) to remember.
But if there’s one thing that truly defines the experience, it’s the food.
A Culinary Adventure in Every Bite
Dining here is far from ordinary — it’s a journey across cultures and cuisines, all delivered with worldclass flair. Begin with a slow morning coffee or breakfast with a view at Merchant Artisan Food & Coffee, then let your tastebuds wander: indulge in street-style Asian at Soy Kitchen, classic comfort fare at Flinders Bar & Grill, or the award-winning elegance of Tamarind Restaurant. This is where Cairns’ culinary scene meets cosmopolitan sophistication.
Let’s take a closer look at the standout eateries:
MERCHANT
ARTISAN FOOD AND COFFEE
A haven for coffee lovers and breakfast aficionados, Merchant is the soul of the morning crowd. Their signature Blackbird house blend — sourced from PNG, Sumatra, Nicaragua, and Honduras — is roasted locally and brewed to perfection by skilled baristas. Whether you’re perched on the sunsoaked deck, curled up in a highbacked armchair, or catching up with colleagues inside, it’s the kind of spot you’ll never want to leave. Also available for private evening functions, Merchant effortlessly transitions from casual charm to intimate venue.
FLINDERS BAR AND GRILL
At the centre of the casino buzz lies Flinders — an over-18 retreat offering fast, friendly bistrostyle dining with a relaxed tavern feel. Here, Aussie pub classics are elevated with fresh local ingredients: think succulent wagyu burgers, golden chicken parmis, and vibrant Tablelands salads. It’s the perfect pit stop between games, or a place to unwind with a pint and a hearty plate after a long day.
SOY KITCHEN STREET FOOD
Tucked within the beautifully restored Customs House, Soy Kitchen is a feast for all senses. Wander in from the street and you’ll be greeted with colourful murals, exposed timber, cherry blossom décor, and a buzzing, street-style vibe. Inspired by the tastes of Asia and crafted with North Queensland produce, the menu is designed to share — ideal for lively group dinners or cocktails and bites during happy hour. Artful, authentic, and full of flair.
Award-winning and endlessly elegant, Tamarind is the crown jewel of the culinary offering. Renowned for its Australian Freestyle cuisine — a fusion of global technique and local bounty — Tamarind has earned its place on the national fine dining stage with multiple Chef Hat awards and accolades from the World Luxury Restaurant Awards. The setting is intimate and sophisticated, with soft lighting, polished timber, and crisp white tablecloths setting the scene. Expect seasonal tasting menus, bold creativity, and a wine and cocktail list that shines with Australian pride.
More Than a Stay — It’s a Celebration
Whether you’re planning a wedding, hosting a corporate function, or staging a lavish gala, The Pullman Reef Hotel Casino delivers unforgettable events with seamless sophistication. Backed by award-winning catering, flexible event spaces, and impeccable service, it’s no wonder this venue is a favourite for celebrations big and small.
At The Reef Hotel Casino, it’s never just a meal, a night out, or a weekend away — it’s a full immersion into Cairns at its most exciting, stylish, and delicious. From sunrise coffees to midnight music, and every moment in between, it’s a destination that delivers — every single time.
TAMARIND RESTAURANT
A Culinary Tapestry of
Queensland Where the Tropics Taste Best:
Far
North
Let’s begin with a simple proposition: in Far North Queensland, food doesn’t just taste good—it tastes of somewhere. And that somewhere is right here. From the reef’s edge to the rainforest canopy, from the volcanic soils of the Tablelands to the tide-fringed markets of Cairns, FNQ is a place where provenance isn’t a trend, it’s the terrain. You taste it in the crisp of a coral trout just kissed by the grill. In the fragrant undertones of lemongrass stirred through a Thai broth. In a sunripened tomato that still glows with the warmth of the red dirt it sprang from.
This section of FNQ Food Magazine is dedicated to the restaurants that bring that taste vividly, audaciously, and always deliciously to your plate. And what a ride it is. Divided by cuisine style—seafood, modern Australian, Italian, Asian, Mediterranean—this isn’t just a list of great places to eat. It’s a deep dive into the wild, genre-bending spirit of FNQ’s food scene, one cuisine category at a time. The chefs here don’t just cook with the local—it courses through their menus like the monsoonal creeks in the wet.
Seafood, of course, is our front-runner, not just by geographical accident but because it is here, along this scaly, salty tip of Australia, that seafood achieves its apotheosis. We’re talking about ocean-to-plate in less time than it takes to properly poach an egg. Whole mud crabs with chilli. Charcoal-grilled bugs with kaffir lime. Sushi rolled with reef fish so fresh it might try to swim away.
But the real trick FNQ’s culinary scene pulls off is this: it doesn’t just stop at showcasing local produce. It transforms it—mod Oz style—with a flair that blends respect for native ingredients with an unbuttoned, larrikin creativity. Call it fusion if you like, but it’s more than that. It’s a kind of culinary code-switching, shaped as much by climate and culture as by training or trend. One dish might tip its hat to Tuscany, the next to Tokyo, and both will bear the unmistakable accents of the tropics.
Italian restaurants here serve pasta you’d swear was rolled on a Nonna’s marble bench in Abruzzo, but it comes wreathed in chilli and mango, garnished with basil plucked from a herb garden — whilst fighting off
cassowaries. Asian eateries pull flavours from all over the continent, but the produce is staunchly local— lemongrass from Mossman, finger limes from Mareeba, and banana leaves cut fresh from the back paddock. And Mediterranean joints? Think Greek-style octopus charred over rainforest ironbark, or Turkish lamb kissed with native myrtle.
There’s a wonderful looseness to dining up here. The dress code is “whatever survived the humidity,” the mood is informal, and the only true sin is not finishing your plate. You’ll dine on decks suspended above cane paddocks, or at tables nestled in open-air laneways alive with the chatter of locals and the clink of a decent Vermentino. You’ll sip wine, not made from grapes, but from rare tropical fruits and knock back cocktails infused with local botanicals you can’t even pronounce. But don’t mistake the laid-back vibe for a lack of rigour. These restaurants are helmed by chefs who’ve done their time in kitchens from Melbourne to Milan and come north not to retire, but to reinvent. They’re here because FNQ is one of the last true frontiers— where a chef can source a whole pig, a bucket of limes, and a rare variety of bush tomato all before breakfast. Where the distance between idea and execution is as short as the food miles.
And here’s the clincher: the people who eat this food aren’t just tourists with Instagram accounts (though we love them too). They’re locals, tradies, growers, reef guides, and nurses. They know what fish is in season, and when mangoes are sweetest. Their presence keeps this scene honest, rooted in community rather than just commerce.
So as you turn the pages ahead, know this: every restaurant featured here isn’t just a place to eat. It’s part of a living, evolving culinary ecosystem. One that honours the land and sea it draws from, that embraces the mosaic of cultures that shape its menus, and that offers, bite by glorious bite, a taste of a region unlike anywhere else on earth.
Dig in. You’re not just having dinner—you’re dining in one of the world’s most extraordinary food destinations.
Beach Almond
A Culinary Compass Point on the Palm Cove Shoreline
In a restaurant world too often bloated with puffery, where “authentic” means adding coriander and a ceramic duck, there’s something magnificently unbothered about Beach Almond. It doesn’t scream for attention. It doesn’t do molecular theatrics. It doesn’t chase stars, hats, or hashtags. What it does do—reliably, gloriously—is serve seafood so fresh and flavours so dialled in that even the Coral Sea seems to lean in for a taste.
At the helm is Brian Holding: chef, cultural sponge, sometime physicist, composer, guitarist, and all-around culinary renegade. If you’ve ever met him, you’ll know that trying to describe Brian is like trying to plate a monsoon—passionate, unpredictable, undeniably energising. He is a one-man hurricane of ideas and stories, an encyclopaedia of Southeast Asian food culture who somehow ends up referencing both Malaysian fish markets and Newtonian optics in the same breath.
Brian’s Beach Almond—tucked at the northern end of Williams Esplanade in Palm Cove—is part restaurant, part shrine to the flavours he’s absorbed from years adventuring across Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, and beyond. The menu reads like a fever dream of spice and salt: whole chilli mud crab wrangled from local waters and cooked with an unapologetic tangle of heat and tang; black pepper prawns in a sauce so punchy it could anchor a festival; barramundi parcelled in banana leaves, poached in kaffir lime and coconut cream as if summoned from a kampong beach oven.
This isn’t fusion. It’s not even “inspired by.” It’s the real deal, reimagined with FNQ’s marine pantry and plated with the kind of loving irreverence that makes you want to lick your fingers and call your mother.
Walk into Beach Almond on any given evening and you’ll find tables of barefoot diners leaning into seafood feasts with expressions somewhere between bliss and disbelief. The décor is rustic to the point of elemental—driftwood walls, salt-patina chairs, and an open deck where the sea breeze is the unofficial maître d’. There are no linen napkins, no QR codes, and no 47-page wine list. The menu is a laminated sheet— sometimes two if the specials are going off—yet every dish reads like the start of a new adventure.
But let’s return to Brian, because to understand Beach Almond is to understand the man himself. A trained scientist, accomplished musician, and seasoned traveller, Brian has composed not only songs but also a cuisine that plays like a greatest hits compilation of Southeast Asia—with a few original riffs of his own. Before devoting himself to the kitchen full-time, he
taught physics, wrote music, performed as a guitarist and vocalist, and surfed waves across the tropics.
Today, that creative energy flows through every wok-flick and plating flourish. He cooks like a composer: attuned to rhythm, balance, and the occasional surprising crescendo. “It’s all chemistry,” he’ll tell you, grinning over a sizzling pan. “Just with more lime leaves.” His enthusiasm is infectious; his dishes, unforgettable.
And while we’re on the subject of unforgettable— let us speak of that Singaporean chilli mud crab. It is, in a word, carnivorous theatre. Sourced live, dispatched with reverence, then wok-blitzed in a riot of chilli, ginger, garlic, and vinegar, it’s the kind of dish that should come with a bib, a warning, and a round of applause. Locals swear by it. Tourists plan return holidays around it.
The rest of the menu is equally transportive. Rendang curry that tastes like it’s been whispered secrets by a Sumatran grandmother. Vegetable dahl that could convert a carnivore. Coconut sorbet so smooth it should be considered a controlled substance.
And while the wine list is serviceable, this is not a venue for oenological chin-stroking. No, the smart move here is to lean into the imported Asian beers—cold, crisp, and ideal for cutting through the deep, rich complexity of Brian’s cooking.
Beach Almond doesn’t court trends. It doesn’t need to. It has Brian Holding, and that’s plenty. His food tells stories—of fishing villages and backstreet kitchens, of banana leaves and beach ovens, of long afternoons spent decoding a curry in Chiang Mai. And yet every dish also speaks of FNQ: of our coastlines, our produce, our fearless, joyful way of eating.
It’s this duality—global soul, local heart—that makes Beach Almond so important. In a region filled with dining destinations, it stands alone as a kind of culinary compass point: a place to return to, to navigate by, to measure other meals against.
So if you find yourself in Palm Cove with an appetite for more than just a good view, follow the scent of sambal and woodsmoke to the northern end of the esplanade. There, under the fairy lights and frangipanis, you’ll find Brian in his open kitchen, barefoot and smiling, conjuring dinner and delight with equal flair.
Bon appétit, FNQ.
Splash Seafood Restaurant: Staying True at 23
In an era of fleeting food trends and a dining landscape that often favours reinvention over reliability, it’s comforting — and increasingly rare — to find a restaurant that still stands where it began, both in place and purpose. And yet, as it marks 23 years on the Cairns Esplanade, Splash Seafood Restaurant continues to do just that, with a quiet confidence and unwavering commitment to quality that has seen it become a perennial favourite for locals and visitors alike.
Owned and operated by long-time locals Megan and Malcolm McKay, Splash is more than just a restaurant. It’s a stalwart of the Far North Queensland seafood story, a living connection to the region’s wild ocean bounty and the people who bring it in. Malcolm, a third-generation commercial fisherman, brings an authenticity few can match. Megan, warm and fiercely dedicated, has helped create a place where service is as fresh as the coral trout on the plate.
“We’ve always stayed in our lane,” Megan says simply. “We don’t chase trends. We listen to our
customers, and we keep things simple. Good seafood doesn’t need to be complicated — it just needs to be respected.”
That philosophy rings loud and clear. As restaurants around the country wrestle with the realities of inflation, supply chain volatility, and staffing challenges, Splash has stayed its course. Not out of stubbornness, but from a deep sense of purpose. The seafood here is still wild-caught and predominantly local. There is no imported product, no shortcuts, and certainly no compromise on provenance.
“We could make it easier on ourselves and bring in imported fillets,” Megan says, “but that’s never going to happen. We’re one of the last ones standing who only serve Australian, wild-caught seafood. Supporting our fishing community is non-negotiable.”
It’s a message that’s resonating even more now, as diners become increasingly conscious of where their food comes from — and who it supports. Splash delivers both an exceptional plate and a meaningful story.
That story is told across a compact, refined menu that’s punctuated by an extensive and evolving specials board. “That’s where we play,” Malcolm notes. “We keep the core menu focused, and then we offer variety and seasonality through the specials. It lets us reflect the best of the catch without overwhelming the customer.”
It also suits Cairns’ climate and culinary rhythm — light and tropical most of the year, with a few hearty inclusions when the temperature dips. From roasted garlic butter bugs to scallop and prawn risotto, these are dishes that return guests ask for by name. There’s always room for evolution, but it’s done gently — and always with the regulars in mind.
After all, this isn’t just a tourist stop. While Splash enjoys a premium location overlooking the Esplanade, around a third of its customers are loyal locals, many of whom have been dining here for over two decades.
“We’ve had people who started coming here as couples, now they bring their kids, or their grandkids,” Megan says with pride. “Some of them even send their children to work for us. That kind of generational connection — you can’t buy that.”
That same loyalty is mirrored in the team behind the scenes. Splash has long invested in its staff — from providing training pathways to creating an environment where people return again and again. Many of the team have rejoined after time away or moved up through the ranks. It’s a testament to the restaurant’s values and the sense of community it cultivates.
Consistency is the magic word here — not in the sense of repetition, but in the knowledge that every time you walk through the doors at Splash, you’ll be met with familiar faces, genuine hospitality, and seafood that speaks for itself.
That’s not to say they haven’t evolved. PostCOVID, Megan took a hard look at pricing, recognising that quality comes with cost, and that discerning diners are willing to pay for authenticity.
“You’ve got to know your worth,” she reflects. “People will pay for the right experience — as long as you deliver.”
And deliver they do. Whether it’s a couple sharing oysters with a bottle of white at sunset, or a business lunch elevated by a perfectly grilled mackerel fillet, Splash offers more than a meal — it offers reassurance. In a world of change, it’s a place that endures by remaining true to itself.
As Cairns continues to grow as a tourism and culinary destination, it’s comforting to know that at the heart of the Esplanade still beats one of the city’s most authentic voices. Splash Seafood Restaurant isn’t trying to be everything to everyone — just a great seafood restaurant run by people who care deeply about what they serve and who they serve it to.
And 23 years on, that might just be the freshest idea of all.
Also Worth a Look: Seafood FNQ
In Far North Queensland, seafood isn’t a trend—it’s a temperament. From the salty breeze of Palm Cove to the marina hum of Port Douglas, the region eats what swims by. But beyond the restaurant roll call and the polished advertorial spreads, there are always places that slip under the radar—not because they’re hidden, but because they don’t shout. They just serve.
Consider this your quiet nudge toward a few that don’t fit neatly into categories but deserve more than a cursory mention. They’re not just seafood spots—they’re statements. Experiences. Late lunches that turn into sunset sessions. Places where the menu tastes like it was written yesterday because, quite literally, it was.
At Tha Fish on the Cairns Esplanade, the name may play coy, but the food doesn’t. A joyful mash of spice, finesse, and serious local know-how, it’s the kind of joint where calamari might arrive draped in tamarind caramel and laced with a mint-lime wake-up call. You’ll want to sit close enough to the open kitchen to hear the wok hiss—this is Thai-leaning, Cairns-rooted cooking that brings joy, not just heat. It’s fast-paced, unapologetic, and wonderfully unpredictable—like FNQ weather in late November.
Up the road in Port Douglas, Wrasse & Roe plays a different tune— slower, more composed, but no less compelling. A local reef-fish tartare might arrive under a drizzle of lemon myrtle oil. You won’t find sticky menus or parrots in the décor; you will find linen, quiet confidence, and a chef who lets the fish do most of the talking. There’s a kind of whispered elegance here, the sort of place where you notice how quietly the room falls when the tiger flathead arrives, perfectly seared and dressed in a fermented pawpaw vinaigrette. This is FNQ for grownups—coastal, clever, and genuinely local.
And yet, some of the best seafood stories don’t even happen inside a restaurant. Prawn Star, moored and mighty in the Cairns Marina, serves seafood with zero pretence and a sea breeze chaser. Sit on the deck. Peel your own prawns. Make friends with the stranger opposite you. Nobody comes here for the cutlery. They come because the prawns are so fresh they don’t need sauce. Add a cold drink and the marina skyline and you’ve got FNQ dining distilled: raw, communal, and impossible to fake.
Tha Fish
The Pier Shopping Centre, Cairns 07 4041 5350 | thafish.com.au
Wrasse & Roe
3/10 Grant St, Port Douglas 07 4099 4476 | wrasseandroe.com.au
Prawn Star
Marina Point, E31 Berth, Cairns 0459 360 722 | prawnstarcairns.com
Tha Fish
Wrasse & Roe
Prawn Star
Modern Oz in the Tropics: A Far North Queensland Perspective
Modern Australian cuisine has always been a bit of a moving target—more an attitude than a rulebook. It is, by nature, restless and recombinant, drawing from centuries of migration, millennia of Indigenous knowledge, and a deepening urgency to understand and reflect place. If Modern Oz in the southern capitals often flirts with theatre and trend, in Far North Queensland it wears boots caked in red dirt, smells of pandanus smoke and lime zest, and arrives plated with reverence for the here and now.
This region doesn’t need to borrow authenticity. It grows it. The reef, the rainforest, the volcanic Tablelands—all within foraging distance of the city centre—shape a menu that’s less about invention and more about interpretation. Tropical protein, native spice, exotic fruit and sea-foraged salt define the local larder. The role of the chef here isn’t to impose, but to translate.
In this context, Modern Australian becomes less of a fusion and more of a filtration—of the land, of seasonal opportunity, of cultural respect. The best kitchens in Cairns aren’t chasing gimmicks; they’re listening. They’re incorporating the tang of Davidson plum into desserts not because it’s fashionable, but because it grows in the forest a few kilometres away. They’re using bush tomato and saltbush not to appear “native-forward,” but because it simply makes culinary sense.
Restaurants like Dundee’s, Ochre, and Tamarind don’t define this movement—they distil it. Each, in their
own way, has long been in quiet dialogue with their surroundings. Whether it’s Dundee’s celebratory use of reef fish and wild game in familiar formats, Ochre’s methodical honouring of native flora and fauna, or Tamarind’s poised symphony of local produce interpreted through a pan-Asian lens, they’re not trying to be Modern Oz. They simply are.
It’s telling that these kitchens rarely shout about their provenance anymore. In FNQ, provenance is a given. The prawns are from the Gulf. The tropical fruit didn’t see a truck. The beef came from the next tableland over. Even the pepper and vanilla are homegrown.
What’s evolving, however, is the sophistication with which this bounty is handled. There’s a confidence now—a regional modernity emerging that’s unbothered by capital-city comparisons. Here, “modern” doesn’t mean molecular—it means meaningful. It means reflecting the land without pastiche, using Indigenous ingredients with cultural literacy, and designing menus that celebrate short food miles as an act of both sustainability and identity.
Far North Queensland’s expression of Modern Australian cuisine isn’t just a subset of a national trend—it’s a frontier. In the stories that follow, we’ll delve deeper into the kitchens and philosophies of some of its leading lights. But for now, consider this your entrée: a celebration of a region that doesn’t just serve food—it serves place.
Saltwater, Soul, and a Side of Sizzle: Inside
Cairns’ Most Enduring Eatery
You don’t last nearly four decades in the Cairns restaurant game without a little grit, a lot of heart, and a view worth writing home about. Dundee’s on the Waterfront isn’t just a place to eat—it’s part of the city’s living memory. A front-row seat to the tropics in full bloom, and a story that’s as much about people as it is about plates.
Located along the Harbour Lights boardwalk, Dundee’s is where Cairns comes to exhale. It’s the calm after the reef dive, the dependable favourite when locals want to impress the in-laws, and a sure thing when visitors ask, “Where should we eat tonight?” If restaurants were people, Dundee’s would be the one who remembers your name, knows your drink, and always makes sure there’s room at the table.
The story began in 1986 on Aplin Street, before moving to Spence Street and eventually anchoring itself on the waterfront in 2007. Through it all, Dundee’s has remained locally owned and fiercely independent. Today, it continues to evolve under the experienced
stewardship of General Manager Tina Wort and Executive Chef James Wort, with support from longtime owner Gary Low and shareholders Marion and Paul Wright—making it very much a family affair.
Hospitality here is built on care, consistency, and connection. Tina’s warmth and humour meet James’s disciplined, produce-driven approach in the kitchen. Marion, a quiet but essential presence, has managed the accounts and financials since the early days. In fact, she and her son-in-law James have worked together longer than any two people in the business—a detail that says everything about the spirit of Dundee’s: loyal, hands-on, and genuinely invested.
The menu? It’s a celebration of the Flavours of Australia—starting with the sea and branching confidently into the bush. Think: tender eye fillet with house-made sauces, plump reef prawns, golden calamari, kangaroo with native spices, and fresh reef fish served in a Penang curry so fragrant it could stop conversation. The Dundee’s Reef & Beef is a best-seller, and the towering Seafood Platter for Two is a rite of passage. For those seeking something uniquely local, the tasting plates featuring crocodile or kangaroo offer a delicious dive into Australia’s culinary wild side.
Quality is non-negotiable. Ingredients are sourced from regional growers and fisheries wherever possible, with house-made elements that tie everything together—no shortcuts, no gimmicks. The result is food that’s both generous and grounded, confident without being showy.
But Dundee’s is more than a menu. It’s a place where service feels seamless and unfussy, where sunsets over Trinity Inlet play supporting act to plates of coral trout and glasses clinking in good company. Sit outside and you’re rewarded with a postcard of tropical
North Queensland: catamarans rocking gently, salt air on your skin, and a sun slipping behind the mountains. It’s the kind of view you never tire of—and one that turns a simple dinner into something memorable.
Consistency is key here. Guests return because they know what to expect—and that’s the point.
Whether it’s your first visit or your fiftieth, you’re in good hands. In fact, one regular recently clocked their 203rd booking, and many more are known not by reservation numbers but by name, face, and favourite dish.
Even in moments of challenge, Dundee’s shows its stripes. After Cyclone Jasper swept through the region in 2023, it was one of the first venues to reopen, offering not just meals but a sense of normalcy when it was needed most. That’s not just resilience—it’s community.
And speaking of community, Dundee’s gives back where it counts. From local charity auctions and fundraising events to support for the Cardiac Challenge and COUCH Wellness Centre, this isn’t a business that gives lip service to local—it lives it.
So yes, you can eat well in Cairns. But if you want to eat with a view, with heart, and with a sense of place—there’s really only one name that locals and visitors alike trust to deliver, time and time again.
Come for the view. Stay for the seafood. Leave knowing you’ve tasted a true Cairns classic.
Dundee’s: still here, still exceptional, and still very much the heart of Cairns.
Dundee’s on the Waterfront 1 Marlin Parade (Located in Harbour Lights) Cairns City 4051 0399
Ochre Restaurant:
Where the Story of Australian Cuisine Is Still Being Written
There are restaurants you eat at, and there are restaurants that leave a mark. Ochre Restaurant, perched elegantly on the Cairns waterfront, belongs emphatically in the latter camp. With a philosophy deeply rooted in native ingredients and a commitment to culinary innovation, it has become a gastronomic landmark in Far North Queensland—a must-do for visitors and a staple for discerning locals.
Originally born as Red Ochre Grill in Adelaide in the early 1990s, the restaurant’s founder, chef Craig Squire, was among the first to champion native Australian foods in a fine dining context. When he brought Ochre to Cairns in 1994, it was with the bold intent to define what Australian cuisine could be: diverse, place-based, and proudly Indigenous-informed. Today, the restaurant operates with an effortless confidence that makes it as comfortable in its tropical surrounds as it would be among the best in Sydney or Melbourne.
Ochre is more than a restaurant—it’s an institution. It embodies a certain FNQ flair: stylish but unpretentious, refined yet warm. Situated along the Harbour Lights boardwalk, it offers sweeping views of the marina, framing each meal with a sense of arrival and occasion. But it’s not just the views that draw people in. It’s the plate—and what it represents.
From wild-caught Gulf bugs to kangaroo sirloin with quandong chilli sauce, every dish is a love letter to the region. Native ingredients aren’t an afterthought here; they are the foundation. You’ll find pepper leaf, lemon myrtle, Davidson plum, and green ants thoughtfully integrated into a menu that is both adventurous and deeply respectful of country. Even behind the bar, the ethos holds: local beers and spirits, tropical fruits, bush-infused cocktails like “The Cassowary”—a bold concoction featuring Davidson plum, finger lime, vodka, and ginger liqueur.
This isn’t trend-chasing. It’s a 30-year commitment to authenticity.
Under the stewardship of Squire and managing director Carley Elsum—herself a 15-year veteran of the restaurant—Ochre has sustained not just a business, but a mission. Their longevity is remarkable in an industry known for its volatility. Their secret? A mix of vision, adaptability, and community grounding. During the COVID pandemic, local support didn’t just help them survive; it reaffirmed their place as a cornerstone of the regional dining scene.
Part of what makes Ochre so distinctive is that it operates across multiple dimensions. Beyond the restaurant lies a highly regarded catering arm, responsible for some of the most ambitious gastronomic events in the region—from remote pop-ups that celebrate native ingredients under open skies to bespoke menus crafted for milestone occasions. Ochre also makes its restaurant space available for exclusive use, hosting everything from business lunches and private gatherings to weddings and large-scale events. Though their catering will be explored further in a separate feature, it’s worth noting that it’s more than a side hustle—it’s a vital thread in the tapestry of Ochre’s regional identity.
This is a place that doesn’t just serve food. It tells stories—about land, about culture, about innovation. And in doing so, it offers something that goes beyond a memorable meal. It offers perspective.
Ask Craig about his journey, and he’ll tell you about falling into cookery on the advice of a high school career counsellor. What followed was a whirlwind of apprenticeships, travel, and a formative stint as a saucier in a Michelin-starred London kitchen. That European pedigree shows in the polish of Ochre’s kitchen execution, but the heart of the place remains unmistakably local. Carley puts it best: “Our passion for everything Craig has achieved over the years really shines through.”
As Squire eyes eventual retirement, with Elsum poised to take the reins, the restaurant is entering a new chapter—one anchored in continuity, not reinvention. The vision remains unchanged: to honour Australian ingredients, champion local producers, and elevate native foods to their rightful place on the national and international stage.
In an age of fleeting fads and ephemeral popups, Ochre stands firm. It is both rooted and soaring—a culinary elder statesman with the vitality of a new opening. For anyone interested in the flavour of Far North Queensland, this is where the heart beats loudest. And for the rest of us, it’s just a damn fine place to eat.
Ochre
Tamarind: A New Era for Cairns’ Iconic
Fine Diner
Tamarind, the signature restaurant of the Reef Hotel Casino in Cairns, has long been a cornerstone of Far North Queensland’s culinary scene. But behind its two-hat accolades and softly lit, whitelinen ambiance, something exciting is quietly taking shape. A creative resurgence is underway, led by a new generation of talent, philosophy and flavour. This is not just a kitchen change. It is a reinvention.
The Next Chapter: Chef’s Rise
At the heart of Tamarind’s evolution is Chef de Cuisine Tom Martinez, whose journey from the brigade’s ranks to the helm of one of Cairns’ most decorated kitchens is a
story of quiet ambition and exceptional skill. Born in France, trained in classical French technique, and shaped by time in Japan, Tom brings a refined yet daring lens to Tamarind’s modern menu.
His cooking philosophy is grounded in French precision, elevated by Japanese subtlety, and energised by the multicultural canvas of Australian cuisine. “I always try to bring Asian fusion into the classical French foundation I was trained in,” Tom explains. “Australia gives you the freedom to try things that just wouldn’t be possible elsewhere.”
That creative freedom has found a home at Tamarind. Here, tradition, experimentation and emotion all meet on the plate.
Culinary Theatre with Conscious Roots
Tom’s signature dish, a bold pairing of quail and crab, is emblematic of the new Tamarind. The dish arrives under a delicate quail jelly dome, which melts under a steaming pour of house-made broth, releasing aroma and drama at the table. It is theatrical, but also deeply technical. The process demanded trials with melting points, fat ratios and service temperatures, pushing the team into a realm of deep collaboration.
Tamarind’s evolution is not just aesthetic or sensory. It is also sustainable. The team is acutely focused on reducing kitchen waste, respecting ingredients, and crafting menus that are as responsible as they are refined.
“We’re strategic in our menu design,” Tom notes. “It’s about minimising waste, using whole animals, and being conscious of how every part of an ingredient can be honoured.”
This waste-conscious approach is more than a concept. The kitchen records some of the lowest waste levels across the entire property, backed by measurable systems and team-wide commitment.
Vegetable-Forward Without Compromise
One of Tamarind’s most notable shifts is a greater focus on vegetarian and plant-based cuisine. This is not about ticking boxes. It is about innovation. “The world is moving in that direction,” Tom says. “And we want to lead, not follow.”
Upcoming menu changes will spotlight bold, layered vegetable dishes that challenge the idea of what fine dining can be. It reflects Tamarind’s ability to honour its legacy while staying in step with global tastes.
Service That Speaks to You
Great food is only part of the Tamarind experience. The restaurant is embracing a more personal approach to
service, where attention to detail and guest preferences are built into the process.
Led by Restaurant Manager Shalya Singh, the front-of-house team uses smart reservation systems to track guest preferences. Whether someone is lefthanded, vegetarian, or prefers not to drink alcohol, their table is set accordingly, and the service adapts to suit.
“Shalya is building something special with the team,” says Food and Beverage Manager Miki Cugini. “He’s young, dynamic, and works seamlessly with Tom to ensure the kitchen and the floor speak the same language.”
The result is a restaurant that feels like it knows you, even if it’s your first time dining.
From Reset to Renaissance
Tamarind’s recent changes reflect more than a seasonal menu update. As Executive Chef Trent Sydenham puts it, “This was a reset. Not because things were broken, but because we knew we could refine what was already there. Get back to fundamentals like mother sauces, proper butter work, deep technical execution, and then innovate from that foundation.”
This approach has reinvigorated the team, sharpened the restaurant’s identity and brought a renewed sense of purpose to the kitchen.
Reframing the Narrative
One of the biggest challenges facing Tamarind is not what is on the plate, but how the public sees it. Many still think of Tamarind as the same restaurant it was a decade ago. But it has changed. There is new energy, a younger team, and a bold creative vision.
The aim is not to abandon the past but to build on it. This is the next chapter of a Cairns icon, written with care, precision and a clear sense of direction.
Tamarind is not just Cairns’ most awarded restaurant. It is one of its most ambitious. With Tom’s culinary vision, Shalya’s guest-focused service, and a cohesive team working in step, Tamarind is once again a must-visit. Not because it always has been, but because right now, it is better than ever.
Also Worth a Look:
Modern Oz
Australia may be the so-called “new world,” but the food emerging from its tropical tip is anything but tentative. In Far North Queensland, Modern Australian cuisine isn’t a style—it’s a mindset. A steady, confident reinvention of place, culture and produce. From Port Douglas to Palm Cove (with a worthy detour through Cairns), a handful of restaurants are defining what it means to cook with country in the most contemporary of ways.
At the heart of Port Douglas, Salsa Bar & Grill has been humming with energy since 1994. Housed in a breezy Queenslander, the venue has trained, launched and inspired many of FNQ’s current kitchen stars. Chef Goran Zonai brings French technique to a distinctly tropical palette—think linguini peperoncino with Tablelands red claw or Daintree saltwater barramundi that tastes like the tide at full race. Add to that a famous Cointreau soufflé made with Daintree Estates chocolate, and you have a restaurant that balances polish with playful charm. On humid evenings, the misting fans cool your shoulders as lime oil dances over the ceviche. This is not just a meal—it’s an introduction to the region. Still in Port Douglas, Melaleuca lives beneath the wide sweep of mango trees and lantern light. It’s a place of soft-spoken excellence, with plates that whisper rather than shout. Malaysian-grilled prawns, Tasmanian scallops, and a kingfish ceviche that somehow feels both familiar and new—this is Mod Oz with discipline and care. The vibe? Grown-up relaxation. Dishes that look effortless, but land with depth and grace. Locals call it “the best dining experience in Port,” and few would argue.
Further south in Palm Cove, Nu Nu delivers theatre without losing its barefoot ease. Chef Nick Holloway leans deeply into local produce—wok-fried mud crab, chilli jam, seasonal reef fish, and tropical fruits given new life. Breakfasts here can feel like a matinee, with iced coffee, ocean air and a laksa that flirts with decadence. This is dining at its best with the Coral Sea shimmering
ten metres away as the prawns are grilled with pineapple from the Rusty’s.
Back in Cairns, Salt House takes Mod Oz to its sunlit extreme. Positioned at the marina’s edge, it’s a venue that understands spectacle—glass walls, timber beams, a constant breeze from Trinity Inlet. The wood grill works wonders: calamari, prawns, steaks, all treated to smoke and precision. There’s a buzz here, particularly at dusk when the cocktails begin to glow and the golden hour plays across the water. This is Mod Oz at full volume—lively, self-assured, and impossible to ignore.
Together, these restaurants form a chorus of the north—each singing their own note of provenance, personality, and modernity. This is not about trends although accolades abound. This is about tropical confidence. Salsa brings polish. Melaleuca calms the palate with elegance. Salt House brings marina-side bravado. Nu Nu stages the barefoot banquet.
In FNQ, Modern Australian isn’t a category—it’s the soundtrack. And these are the songs worth hearing.
Salsa Bar & Grill
26 Wharf St, Port Douglas 07 4099 4922 | salsa.com.au
Melaleuca
22 Wharf St, Port Douglas 07 4099 5167 | melaleucaportdouglas.com.au
Salt House 6/2 Pier Point Rd, Cairns 07 4041 7733 | salthouse.com.au
There is a particular alchemy that happens when Italian cuisine takes root far from its origins. Not imitation, not even interpretation—something closer to naturalisation. In Far North Queensland, where mangoes fall like windfall and the air smells faintly of salt and citrus, Italian food has not only adapted—it has flourished.
This isn’t the ossified, trattoria-by-numbers fare of the tourist strip. Nor is it the overly manicured minimalism of capital-city chefs chasing Michelin stars. FNQ’s Italian restaurants are less about adhering to tradition than embodying its essence: generosity, conviviality, seasonality, and above all, pleasure. They are places where the menu is dictated less by dogma and more by what’s good, what’s ripe, and what makes sense when the humidity sits heavy and the seafood is still twitching.
From Cairns to Port Douglas, kitchens like those at La Fettuccina, Villa Romana, Perrotta’s, and Pistacchi weave local produce into familiar frameworks— handmade pastas dressed with coral trout, local prawns in a white wine reduction kissed with native herbs, or burrata served with tropical fruit and chilli oil. It’s not fusion. It’s function. The Far North demands flexibility, and these restaurants respond with dishes that feel both timeless and utterly of the moment.
You’ll find wood-fired pizza topped not with artifice, but with sharp, clean ingredients that thrive in our microclimates. You’ll hear Italian spoken, yes—but also the hum of laughter, the clink of glassware, and the unmistakable cadence of locals dining like nonna taught them.
Places like La Cucina in Port Douglas and the charmingly casual Beach Shack blur the line between authentic trattoria and tropical refuge. There are no starched white linens. There’s just great food, shared with gusto, ideally with sand still on your feet and a glass of vermentino in hand.
This section of the magazine isn’t about parsing the merits of marinara versus arrabbiata or debating whether pineapple belongs on pizza. It’s about celebrating how Italian food, when placed in FNQ’s sundrenched, salt-soaked context, doesn’t just survive—it sings.
In the articles that follow, we visit the kitchens and characters who have made Italian food not just a mainstay in Far North Queensland, but a mode of living. From refined ristorantes to easygoing beachside bistros, these venues offer more than meals—they offer a moment of escape, a taste of joy, and a reminder that, sometimes, the best way to understand a region is through what’s simmering on the stove.
Buon appetito, tropical-style.
The Beach Shack:
Port Douglas’ All-Day Italian Soul
Tucked just off Four Mile Beach on one of Port Douglas’s leafy residential backstreets, The Beach Shack is the kind of place that feels like it’s always been there. Not in the weary, worn-out sense, but in the way a favourite beach towel or perfectly faded t-shirt earns its status: familiar, essential, effortlessly loved. It’s the kind of eatery you stumble upon once and then return to again and again—not because it clamours for attention, but because it doesn’t need to.
Despite the name, The Beach Shack is not quite on the beach, nor is it, thankfully, a shack. What it is, however, is a low-slung, open-air trattoria with the easy charm of southern Italy and the easy rhythm of the tropics. The scent of coffee mingles with the salty air each morning, and by evening, the aroma of garlic, tomatoes, and sizzling seafood takes its place. From
breakfast through to dinner, the kitchen never really sleeps, and that is just how the locals like it.
Under the watchful, espresso-fuelled eye of manager Giorgio Simonetti, the Shack has grown into more than a neighbourhood haunt. It’s now a bona fide community cornerstone—one of the very few venues in Port Douglas open continuously from early morning through to dinner. It’s the kind of place where you can swing by for a quick espresso and Italian roll in the morning, grab a panini after the beach, or settle in for a candlelit pizza dinner with friends and Chianti.
This constancy, Giorgio insists, is no accident. “We always wanted people to know the Shack is open. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. Always. And not just open, but really serving.” In practice, that means fresh Italian rolls with cured meats and cheeses from 7am
through to 5pm, then a seamless transition into pizzas, seafood secondi, and housemade pastas for the evening trade. There are no awkward breaks, no kitchen closures. Just continuity, comfort, and culinary cohesion.
Service at The Beach Shack is as smooth and sun-drenched as the decor—there’s a tangible camaraderie between staff, most of whom hail from Giorgio’s homeland of southern Italy. Nico, the newly minted head chef (and previously sous), embodies the same no-nonsense, flavour-first philosophy. Together with a kitchen team that operates more like an extended family than a roster, they deliver food that is resolutely unpretentious but resolutely delicious. “Tasty is the most important thing,” Giorgio grins, and it shows.
The pizzas are the linchpin of the menu and rightly so: blistered, chewy crusts with the kind of smoky depth that only a proper oven and practiced hands can produce. But the supporting cast deserves equal applause—handmade pastas kissed with Napoli sauce, seafood specials that nod to the Puglian coast, and sides that could steal the show. Even the breakfast menu, often a formality elsewhere, is executed with flair. Local eggs, house hash browns, Italian-style bacon. Proper coffee.
Much has been made, rightly, of the Shack’s food. But the place is also a quiet revolution in local delivery culture. Eschewing
Uber Eats and its margins, Giorgio and his crew personally deliver orders during low season. “Sometimes it’s me on the bike,” he laughs, and indeed it’s not uncommon to find the restaurant manager-turned-pizzaiolo-turned-courier knocking on your door with dinner.
It sounds quaint—and it is—but it’s also savvy. Not only does it ensure better value and wages for the staff, it reinforces the Shack’s hyperlocal credentials. Regulars, some of whom drop by two or three times a week, have come to depend on it, and that mutual loyalty forms the bedrock of the venue’s success.
You won’t find themed nights or elaborate marketing schemes here. Giorgio prefers the energy of casual dining: unhurried, familiar, genuine. The real show is the food, the people, the atmosphere. And somehow, whether it’s the natural lighting or the unforced conviviality of the place, everything just looks good here. Even the Instagram feed—dishes snapped in natural light, a well-timed smile from behind the bar—tells its own relaxed, sunkissed story.
The Beach Shack doesn’t trade on exclusivity or hype. It trades on trust. On showing up. On delivering day in and day out, whether it’s cappuccinos at dawn or linguine at dusk. And in doing so, it offers something increasingly rare: a restaurant that feels not just of its place, but for its place. Port Douglas is all the richer for it.
The Beach Shack 29 Barrier St Port Douglas 3472 6987
Essence of Italy, Elevated by the Tropics La Cucina + Bar, Port Douglas
There’s something seductive about a restaurant that knows exactly what it is. No hedging bets, no gimmicks. La Cucina + Bar in Port Douglas doesn’t flirt with fads or bow to culinary compromise. Instead, it courts its customers with unrelenting confidence: this is Italian food, done properly, in the heart of the tropics.
What began as a respectful continuation of the much-loved Sassi La Cucina has, in recent years, transformed into something distinctly its own—a refined, charismatic dining experience helmed by a tight-knit team of mostly Italian professionals who wear their heritage as proudly as their aprons. While the name has changed and the menu evolved, the restaurant remains an ode to authenticity—both of place and palate.
The venue itself straddles elegance and ease. By day, the street-front tables along Macrossan shimmer with alfresco casualness, shaded by palms and kissed by sea breeze. By night, a gentle hum of Italian-accented laughter and clinking glasses fills the air. It’s polished but never pretentious, intimate without being stuffy, buoyed by a staff whose joy in service is as palpable as the salt in the sea air.
This past year, La Cucina has leaned deeper into its strengths. The menu—already a masterclass in traditional Italian cuisine—has undergone a subtle, thoughtful evolution. Most notably, a bold move into raw seafood has paid off handsomely. Coral trout, once a risky inclusion due to its steep wholesale price, has become the restaurant’s breakout star. Served as both a tartare and in a main course riff on acqua pazza, the dish exemplifies the restaurant’s ability to take local bounty and elevate it through Italian technique. “We were nervous,” says owner Vincenzo di Cugno. “But now? We’re selling 30, 40 a day.”
That willingness to back quality—regardless of cost—echoes throughout the menu. The seafood is line-caught and local. The prawns, peeled painstakingly in-house, arrive fresh from FNQ boats. The produce, where possible, is sourced from Sunday markets and Tablelands growers, ensuring a vivid seasonal backbone to the menu. As Vincenzo puts it, “People see a dish and question the price, but they don’t always see the hours of prep, the quality of each ingredient, the labour behind every prawn peeled by hand.”
And yet, despite this meticulous sourcing and high-level execution, La Cucina remains resolutely unpretentious. Vincenzo is quick to clarify that they don’t identify as fine dining. “We serve food that could be, but we do it in a relaxed environment. We’re not a trattoria, but we’re not a white-tablecloth venue either. It’s elevated dining with heart.”
That heart beats strongest in the staff. Many have been with the restaurant for years, returning season after season, drawn not just by the calibre of the food but by the camaraderie behind the scenes. Walk through the venue and you’ll hear as much Italian as English, often in the same sentence. Jokes fly across the pass; wine is poured with flair and warmth. It’s a team that knows good food, respects tradition, and genuinely enjoys the performance of hospitality.
The wine list has ballooned to an impressive 250 labels, curated to support the food without overwhelming it. Italian regions are well represented, as are thoughtful Australian and New Zealand picks. French wines are reserved mostly for champagne. It’s a list that signals seriousness but avoids snobbery—a cellar crafted for conversation, not intimidation.
Cocktails, unsurprisingly, are not an afterthought. With roots in Italian cocktail culture, Vincenzo brings a bar program that’s both classic and inventive. Vegan amaretto sours, made with chickpea foam, are a particular hit. Paired with a pizza from the bar menu and a twilight table outside, it’s an effortless slice of Naples via North Queensland.
In many ways, La Cucina + Bar is more than a restaurant—it’s a culinary outpost, a cultural bridge, and, crucially, a local institution in full bloom. While its roots remain steadfastly Italian, its branches have stretched confidently into the lush, sun-soaked air of Port Douglas.
It’s a place that doesn’t just serve food. It tells a story. And judging by the full tables and smiling faces, it’s one that people are eager to hear again and again.
Buon appetito, indeed.
La Cucina + Bar 4 Macrossan St. Port Douglas 4099 6744
La Fettuccina at 39: The Art of Staying True
In a town where hospitality trends rise like cyclones and vanish just as quickly, La Fettuccina has done the unthinkable: it’s stayed the course. No rebrands. No chef-as-influencer theatrics. Just the steady hand of a team who knows that good pasta, like good reputations, is built daily.
Cairns’ Original Italian
When La Fettuccina was founded in 1986, it began life on the Cairns Esplanade. In 1989, it moved to Shields Street, becoming a near-lone outpost of Italian cuisine in a city just beginning to stretch into its culinary identity. Today, surrounded by a patchwork of cafés, tapas bars and slick pan-Asian hybrids, it still holds its ground—proudly, unmistakably Italian.
The dining room, like the menu, is a masterclass in restraint: whitewashed walls, wrought iron details, handwritten specials on a blackboard. There’s no engineered “experience.” Just a working trattoria delivering the kind of meals that make you wonder why anyone ever stopped using real butter.
Chef John Japp and maître d’ Andrea Pinciarova took over in 2006 after years of working their way up the ranks—graduating from a couple in life to a couple in business. John, who joined the restaurant in 1998, worked both in the kitchen and front of house, while Andrea had become the heartbeat of the frontof-house. When the previous owners offered them the keys, they didn’t so much leap as continue walking—with purpose.
“The takeover was deliberately seamless,” John says. “Most of our regulars didn’t even realise it had changed hands.”
The Discipline of Daily Pasta
At La Fettuccina, pasta isn’t made fresh because it’s fashionable—it’s made fresh because that’s the only way they’ve ever done it. Fettuccine all’Amatriciana with rich tomato and pancetta. Pescatora heaving with garlic prawns. Veal scaloppine so tender it melts. These are not Instagram gimmicks. They’re the cornerstones of a menu that hasn’t so much stood the test of time as ignored it entirely.
John’s kitchen plays a long game, built on technique, tradition, and raw FNQ produce. Risotto ai Funghi – a veritable celebration made with Arborio rice and a creamy sauté of mushrooms. Housemade Agnolotti, stuffed with Coral Trout and Moreton Bay Bug. Wild fig tart when the season allows. He’s a regular at Rusty’s and Tablelands stalls—not out of obligation, but instinct.
“If I see great figs or eggplants, they could well be on the menu that night,” he says..
A Local Favourite with Legs
Andrea estimates 80% of their business is repeat trade. Locals. Industry folk. Families who’ve celebrated three generations of birthdays at the same corner table.
La Fettuccina
41 Shields St, Cairns 4031 5959
The room hums with conversations that don’t need translating—proof that consistency, when done right, breeds loyalty, not boredom.
The aroma of garlic wafting into the street. Inside, international waitstaff glide through the room with an ease that comes only by being guided by someone with years of working the same service, Andrea. She orchestrates the floor like a conductor, not always visible, always in control.
Hospitality here isn’t about performance. It’s about memory. Remembering names, favourite wines, who likes their fettuccine al dente and who prefers a touch more sauce.
“If we’re doing it right,” Andrea says, “you won’t even notice us.”
Resilience Served Daily
The past few years have thrown plenty at Cairns hospitality— from floods and cyclones to the gut-punch of lockdowns. But La Fettuccina didn’t pivot to pizza boxes or QR code menus. Instead, they tightened the operation, kept the doors open where possible, and continued to serve regulars with the same unflinching standards.
“We’re not flashy, but we’re dependable,” says John. “People know what they’re getting. And that matters, especially when everything else feels uncertain.”
There’s a quiet pride in that statement—not nostalgia, not sentimentality, but earned confidence. You see it in the way the kitchen works in synchrony, in the floor team’s subtle choreography, in the fact that a table booked for two is never rushed just because a four-top is waiting.
Still Stirring the Sauce
Ask John if he has plans to modernise, and he doesn’t hesitate.
“There’s nothing broken. So, we don’t need to fix it!
The kitchen team is strong; the food speaks for itself. It’s precise, it’s honest—and that’s enough.”
It’s a contrarian stance in a food world obsessed with reinvention, but one that fits La Fettuccina like a well-worn apron. What they offer isn’t nostalgia—it’s a living, breathing example of what happens when you invest in skill over spectacle, and let the food speak for itself.
So, what does four decades taste like? It’s the garlic on your fingers after pulling apart a loaf of crusty pane. It’s the caramel edges on a tiramisu that’s had just enough time to rest. It’s a plate of linguine that lands on the table not with fanfare, but with the quiet confidence of something that’s been made thousands of times—and somehow never gets old.
And in a town that’s constantly reinventing itself, staying true is the boldest move of all.
Perrotta’s at the Gallery
Where Art Meets Appetite
There are few constants in Cairns. The tides change. The tourists change. Even the weather, though reliably humid, keeps us guessing. But on the corner of Abbott and Shields Streets, where the footpath flirts with the Cairns Art Gallery, one place has resisted ephemerality. Perrotta’s at the Gallery, established in 1997, hasn’t just endured—it’s embedded itself into the city’s rhythm.
What began as a humble idea—open-air dining with a Mediterranean bent—has become something more consequential. Perrotta’s is not just a restaurant; it is a civic ritual. A reliable point of return. A place where morning regulars sip espresso with local newspaper in hand, where gallery-goers spill out into shaded tables, and where dinner service delivers thoughtful, unpretentious food to a city that demands more than sun and seafood.
Its location is no accident. Housed in the historic 1936 Public Curator’s Office, the building anchors Perrotta’s with a sense of permanence. Wrought-iron chairs and ceiling fans lend an old-world aesthetic, but the pulse is unmistakably contemporary. This is not nostalgia; it’s an evolution.
Coffee, of course, is central. There is a generation of Cairns locals who began their relationship with caffeine here, guided by baristas who understood that precision and pace were not mutually exclusive. The breakfast menu has its followers: Tropical Overnight Oats and the Nourish Me Bowl offer light, nutritious starts; Ricotta Hotcakes strike the balance between indulgence and restraint; and the Crab Benny—a seafood twist on a classic—feels both local and luxe.
Lunch and dinner follow an Italian vernacular, delivered with a confidence born of consistency. There is no panic to impress, but plenty to enjoy. Rigatoni Bolognese arrives neither over-sauced nor undercooked. Polpo (chargrilled octopus) speaks of southern Italy in every bite. There is arancini, zucchini fries, and occasionally the surprise of dishes like Scalia Sicilian
Anchovies, where boldness meets balance. Pizza is offered too—with a clear line of sight to Napoli through options like the Rocco, Puttanesca, and RIP Tony Soprano.
To some, the menu may read like a familiar songbook. But that, arguably, is the point. In a region prone to the faddish and fleeting, Perrotta’s trades in refinement rather than reinvention. It has cultivated its own language: service that is attentive without being ingratiating; plates that speak in complete sentences rather than exclamation points.
The gallery next door lends Perrotta’s an intellectual backbone. There’s a symbiosis at play. Art needs conversation. Coffee fuels contemplation. The line between lunch and lecture, aperitif and art opening, is blurred here, creating a historic feeling of permanence.
Twenty-seven years is an extraordinary tenure in hospitality. It is a testament to founder Ivo Perrotta’s original vision and to the quiet competence of those who carry it forward today—most notably longtime Head Chef Darren Law, whose stewardship of the kitchen continues to shape the restaurant’s enduring appeal. There is no manifesto scrawled on a chalkboard. No overwrought mission statement. Just service, coffee, food, wine, and weather—each calibrated for the latitude and the locals.
In a city that cycles through chefs and concepts with alarming speed, Perrotta’s persists. Not because it is stubborn, but because it listens. Not because it is perfect, but because it is present. And presence, in a town this transient, is everything.
Perrotta’s 38 Abbott St, Cairns 4031 5899
PIST4CCHI:
Made by Italians. Fed by Passion.
They say you can’t fake authenticity—and frankly, Pist4cchi wouldn’t even bother trying. This unassuming Italian eatery on Cairns’ Shields Street doesn’t whisper romance with a few olive branches and a dribble of balsamic. It shouts. From the kitchen and behind the bar comes the sound of rolling laughter, and the occasional operatic expletive. This Italian gem doesn’t rely on clichés to charm you. The wine list is long enough to require core strength, the service team speaks with their hands (and their hearts), and the pasta is made fresh several times a week—sometimes prepared right in front of your eyes.
Since opening nearly four years ago, Pist4cchi (pronounced: Pistakki) has become more than a restaurant. It’s a culinary love letter to Italy, sealed with passion, dusted with Parmigiano, and slipped under Cairns’ tropical doorstep.
And now, with The Back Room repurposed as a gorgeous extension of the dining space, there’s even more room for this riotous celebration of Italian hospitality to unfold.
The Back Room: From Hidden Bar to Dining Jewel
What began as a cocktail bar and event space has now been elegantly absorbed into the heart of the restaurant. The Back Room retains its warm, moody charm—vintage wine crates, intimate lighting, the hum of conversation—and now serves as a full-time extension of Pist4cchi’s bustling floor.
“It gives us the space we needed,” says co-owner Paolo Russolillo, “but also allows guests to experience something a bit more intimate, especially when they book it out.”
Yes, it’s still available for private hire, and yes, it’s still one of the most atmospheric spots in Cairns to host anything from birthdays to business dinners. And if you’re lucky, someone will start pouring magnums of Barolo.
Tortellini Theatre and the Midweek Miracle
While weekends remain buzzy, it’s Wednesdays that now steal the show. Each week, Pist4cchi transforms into a live-action pasta spectacle as the house chef folds tortellini by hand at a table right in the dining room. This isn’t just food—it’s a performance. You get three sauce options: the classic pork-and-beef ragù, the hearty Bucha (sausage, peas, mushrooms), or a dramatic finish inside a molten Parmigiano wheel.
“We used to do the cheese wheel every night,” Paolo admits. “But it lost its magic. Now it’s a reason to come on a Wednesday— and we’re as busy as Saturdays.”
Midweek pasta theatre. Now that’s Italian.
The Staff Meal That Holds It All Together
Behind the scenes, Pist4cchi functions as much like a family home as it does a business. Every night, the entire team—kitchen and front of house—sits down together to eat and drink after service.
“You can have a bad day,” Paolo says, with refreshing honesty. “You can yell at each other in the heat of service. But you sit down with a glass of wine and a bowl of pasta, and it resets everything.”
This practice, commonplace in Italy but rare in Australia, has become the soul of the restaurant’s team culture. And when the staff are happy, the guests feel it too.
Paolo puts it plainly: “I don’t just hire for skill—I hire for attitude. I’d rather have someone who is six out of ten and wants to learn than a ten who thinks they’re a genius.”
Authentic, Not Australianised
While many Italian restaurants soften the flavours or tweak the techniques to “fit in,” Pist4cchi leans into its roots. Recipes are taken straight from the kitchens of the owners’ mothers and grandmothers, and ingredients are treated with reverence.
“Yes, we use local produce,” says Paolo, “but the DNA of each dish stays Italian. We adapt to what’s available—like using Moreton Bay bugs or tropical crayfish—but we never compromise the soul of the dish.”
Highlights? The signature black squid ink tagliolini with crayfish, slow-cooked with a confit of colourful cherry tomatoes, and the legendary 1.2kg lamb shoulder—tender, dramatic, and completely complaintfree since day one.
And yes, they now serve tiramisu—presented, naturally, in a Moka coffee pot. Because even when they give in, they do it their way.
Wine, Grappa, and a 240-Bottle Italian Love Letter
If you think the food’s serious, wait until Paolo hands you the wine list. With over 240 bottles, eighty percent of them Italian, plus an ever-growing stock of 130 gins, a wall of Amari and Grappa, and cocktails dabbling in the theatrical (dry ice, bubble smoke, the works), this is no side-show cellar.
“I love opening that book,” Paolo grins. “There are wines in there that I brought back from Italy myself— stuff you can’t find elsewhere. Every label has a story.”
And if you’re lucky, he’ll tell you all of them.
The Final Word: Come Hungry, Stay Late, Leave Full of Joy
There are restaurants that feed you. And then there are restaurants that wrap you up in a great big Italian bear hug, stuff you with squid ink pasta, ply you with negronis, and convince you that yes, you do want to book that room out back for your birthday.
Pist4cchi isn’t just dinner. It’s a passport. It’s a party. It’s the Italian family you never knew you had—and if you walk in not knowing what tortellini is, you’ll walk out wondering how you ever lived without it.
Shop 2/64 Shields St, Cairns 4031 2996
Pist4cchi
Villa Romana:
The Godfather of the Esplanade
You can tell a lot about a town by where its people return. In Cairns, where eateries come and go with the tides, there is one table that has remained reliably set since 1999: Villa Romana Trattoria. And not just set — but occupied, buzzing, clinking with cutlery, and often accompanied by a light sea breeze and a bottle of something Italian.
Villa is, in many ways, the Godfather of the Esplanade — not in the cinematic sense of vendettas and violin cases, but in that firm, familiar, and quietly commanding way. A place you trust. A place that’s lasted.
“We’ve built our story on consistency,” says Stephen Papagelou, now two years into his role as operations manager. He’s also the eldest son of George and Helen, Villa’s original creators and a hospitality duo with roots as deep as their recipes. “Consistency is what people come back for.”
It’s not the flashiest claim, but in a world of reinventions, it might just be the smartest. Stephen, who returned to Cairns after running venues in Melbourne, hasn’t tried to overhaul the family’s beloved trattoria. Instead, he’s sanded and polished it — streamlining operations, introducing online bookings, refining the wine list, and gently adjusting the menu to lean closer to its
authentic Italian core. Gone are a few overdone pizzas; in their place, cleaner, simpler expressions of Italian tradition.
“It’s subtle,” Stephen says. “If you change too much, you risk losing the soul of the place. But there’s always room to improve the experience — especially the parts diners don’t see.”
Underneath the polished terrazzo of Villa’s public face, there’s been a quiet technological renaissance. Kitchen and floor staff benefit from smoother workflows, a few clever integrations, and what Stephen calls “operational breathing room” — a chance to spend more time engaging with customers, and less chasing paper dockets. It’s not so much reinvention as refinement.
If Villa’s exterior remains familiar, its foundations have deepened. Now under Stephen’s steady direction, the kitchen continues to evolve thoughtfully with seasonal specials crafted to honour Villa’s traditional roots while keeping pace with contemporary tastes. Behind the scenes, operational refinements and a focus on guest experience ensure that every detail — from the plate to the pacing — reflects a quiet precision.
“At our core, we’re a true hospitality family, whether it’s entertaining at home or running our restaurants. We find genuine joy in feeding others,” Stephen says.
“I especially love helping people discover a new wine or encouraging them to try something outside their comfort zone. I do miss the rush of a busy service, which is why I still jump in for the occasional shift at Villa Romana. It keeps me connected to what I love most about this industry.”
It’s this approach that shines through when Stephen talks about wine like a good maître d’ should — with invitation, not intimidation. “We’re just encouraging guests to try something different,” he explains. “If you don’t like it, no problem. But maybe you will. That’s the joy in it.”
Over the years, the trattoria has fed generations — literally. “I’ve had people say, ‘I used to come here with my parents,’” Stephen shares. “Now they’re coming back with their own kids. That’s something we really cherish.”
It’s this multi-generational thread — of diners, of staff, of family — that makes Villa Romana not just a restaurant, but a story. A place where traditions are held with care, where change is quiet but purposeful, and where every shift — from menu tweaks to back-of-house systems — is done with the long game in mind.
In a region like Far North Queensland, where staffing is fluid, produce can be unpredictable, and the wet season can rewrite even the best-laid plans, that kind of endurance is no small feat. “You learn to adapt,” Stephen says. “But we’ve always known who we are.”
And who they are is precisely why people return. For the veal scaloppini, the calamari, and the tiramisu — unchanged and untouchable. For the view, yes — but also for that ineffable feeling of being remembered.
So yes, call Villa the Godfather. Not for its flash, but for its quiet authority. Its consistency. Its resilience. And above all, for its loyalty — to the food, to the experience, and to the generations who keep coming home to it.
Villa Romana
Also Worth a Look:
FNQ’s Italian
There’s a peculiar comfort in the familiar—especially when it comes cloaked in a red sauce, served with a crusty edge, or dusted generously with parmesan. While the region’s Italian newcomers draw the headlines, these long-standing favourites continue to win hearts, one forkful at a time. They may not be flashy, but they’re family. They’re the places locals return to, tourists stumble upon and delight in, and chefs quietly respect for doing the simple things right, year after year.
Let’s begin with Lemoncello’s, perched politely on the Cairns Esplanade like the well-dressed cousin at a family wedding. Owner Paul Papagelou, no stranger to the FNQ dining circuit, has given Cairns a venue that’s comfortable, consistent, and pleasantly unpretentious. Lemoncello’s is the sort of place where you know what you’re getting—a classic spaghetti marinara that doesn’t apologise for its garlic, a lemon cheesecake that knows its role in the universe, and service that glides just beneath the radar. It’s not here to break rules; it’s here to serve good Italian food with a smile and a sea breeze.
Further north at Trinity Beach, L’Unico Trattoria Italiano continues to live its best beachfront life. This is coastal dining with a Neapolitan accent. The pizzas still arrive woodfired and slightly scorched, the calamari is reliably crisp, and the Aperol flows like a Riviera afternoon. There’s a touch of magic in eating a quattro formaggi while watching the sun dip behind the palms—no reinvention necessary, just solid, sun-kissed staples.
In Cairns City, Piccolo Cucina continues its quiet campaign for greatness. While it featured in our main Italian round-up, it’s worth reiterating: there’s a reason this place has become shorthand for “that lovely little Italian.” Its kitchen doesn’t shout; it whispers sage and burnt butter. Its dining room doesn’t clatter; it hums. If you haven’t had the seafood linguine under Piccolo’s warmly lit archways, you’re missing one of FNQ’s finest Italian expressions.
Then there’s A Taste of Italy in Clifton Beach. A family-run trattoria with more than 18 years of loyal custom under its apron, this unassuming eatery has quietly become a northern beaches institution. It’s the sort of place where you’ll find house-made pasta, wood-fired pizzas, and generous lashings of garlic and olive oil— served without fuss and with plenty of warmth. The decor leans more suburban dining than Tuscan villa, but the flavours are authentic, the portions are hearty, and the seafood specials are a well-kept local secret. It’s not romantic candlelight and soft jazz, but it is reliable, honest-to-goodness Italian that’s stood the test of time—a kind of trattoria time capsule. And frankly, when was the last time your Nonna garnished anything with micro herbs?
In an age of fusion-this and deconstructed-that, there’s something reassuring about a restaurant that simply aims to do the classics well—and keeps doing them.
Lemoncello’s
Shop 8/53–57 The Esplanade, Cairns City 07 4031 4744 | lemoncellos.com.au
There is a distinct pleasure in eating Asian food in Far North Queensland. Not just because the region’s balmy climate and coastal outlook feel more Bangkok than Brisbane, but because the ingredients—so essential to the great cuisines of East and Southeast Asia—are not imported, but homegrown. Lemongrass, Thai basil, kaffir lime, galangal, turmeric, ginger, chilli—this isn’t exoticism. It’s Friday at Rusty’s.
The story of Asian food in FNQ is not a trend— it’s a foundation. It has long been entwined with the region’s cultural makeup, shaped by migration, trade, and a shared reverence for fresh seafood and bold, clean flavours. In this environment, the wok and the mortarand-pestle feel not foreign but elemental.
This edition, we dive into standout establishments like Yamazaru—a sushi and izakaya den of precision and poise— and Soy Kitchen, where the sizzle of street food meets the finesse
of fine dining, all beneath the vaulted ceilings of the historic Customs House. These are no pan-Asian pastiches; they are focused, passionate kitchens deeply attuned to their craft and climate. And let’s not forget the Asian influence woven through other cuisines across the region, not least at the already-mentioned Beach Almond, where fusion is a philosophy, not a gimmick.
It helps, of course, that FNQ provides what many chefs elsewhere must import. Prawns plucked from local waters that morning, reef fish firm and sweet, greens that wilt if not cooked the same day they’re picked. The region’s proliferation of Asian herbs—wild, cultivated, or foraged—means dishes arrive at the table vibrant, nuanced, and impossibly fresh.
In Far North Queensland, Asian cuisine doesn’t have to bend or compromise to belong. It thrives because it fits—flavour-wise, climate-wise, culturewise. From sushi counters to Thai bistros and Korean barbecues, this is a region where Asian food is neither novelty nor niche—it’s necessity.
In the pages that follow, we celebrate the chefs, restaurateurs, and kitchens crafting Asia’s great culinary traditions with FNQ flair. This isn’t fusion—it’s a homecoming.
So bring your appetite. It’s time to eat where east meets the tropics.
Soy Kitchen Street Food:
Cairns’ Hidden Gem with Big Flavour Energy
Tucked inside Cairns’ historic Customs House and quietly humming beneath the lights of the Reef Hotel Casino, Soy Kitchen Street Food is more than a casual diner. It is a place where music sets the mood, wok smoke curls through the air, and the crackle of fried chicken draws a hungry crowd.
Soy Kitchen is where Asian street food meets local attitude. It is relaxed, confident, full of flavour and still one of the city’s best-kept secrets.
Where the Atmosphere Comes First
From the moment you enter, Soy Kitchen delivers a bold sensory experience. Modern murals line the walls, beats float through the air, and the open kitchen crackles with heat and hustle. It is vibrant, unpretentious and always moving.
“It’s not just about food,” says Food and Beverage Manager Miki Cugini. “It’s about energy. This is the start of people’s nights, and it sets the tone.”
And that tone is clear. Soy Kitchen is fun, casual and full of life.
Modern Street Food Without Boundaries
The menu blends pan-Asian favourites with modern twists, inspired by the flavours of Vietnam,
Thailand, Japan and Korea. But Soy Kitchen is not trying to be traditional. It is carving out its own style — bold, punchy and unafraid of taking risks.
Executive Chef Trent Sydenham explains, “We’ve built the foundation with familiar favourites like bao, gyoza and rice bowls, but the real excitement comes through our monthly specials. That’s where the chefs get to have some fun.”
One recent standout was a Korean-style fried chicken Maryland glazed in sticky barbecue sauce, paired with cabbage slaw and sweet potato fries. It was a clever remix of comfort food, grounded in authenticity but full of local flair.
Respect From Industry Insiders
Soy Kitchen’s food has earned praise not just from guests, but from respected peers in the industry. A well-known Asian cuisine restaurateur recently dined at Soy Kitchen and was especially impressed with a delicate steamed chicken san choy bow — a dish he described as “surprisingly excellent.”
That kind of feedback speaks volumes. Soy Kitchen might be casual, but its execution and flavour are anything but ordinary.
Refining the Experience
Though the vibe is laid-back, Soy Kitchen is quietly refining the guest experience. A new venue manager is helping steer the team toward better service, more personal touches and deeper guest engagement.
“We are working on moving from a counterservice model to something more engaging,” says Miki. “It’s still casual, but now there’s more attention to the person sitting in front of you.”
Soy Kitchen’s team uses a new reservation system to help personalise service. Whether a guest prefers a particular seat, avoids alcohol or has dietary needs, the team is ready to deliver a smoother and more thoughtful experience.
Great Value Without Cutting Corners
Soy Kitchen is affordable but never compromises on quality. It is rare to find food of this calibre at this price point, and that is exactly the appeal. It works for a midweek dinner, a pre-show bite or a group night out.
Weekly offers such as rice bowls on Sundays and Mondays, Taco Tuesdays, and daily happy hour from 4 to 6 pm keep regulars coming back.
“You can drop in anytime and get something fresh, interesting and well priced,” Trent says. “And then, the specials give you something new to look forward to.”
Still a Secret, But Not for Long
Soy Kitchen has a strong following, but many locals still walk past it without knowing what lies inside. The team is ready to change that.
With its unique location, bold artwork, and a concept that appeals across generations and cultures, Soy Kitchen is ready to step into the spotlight. Its location inside the Reef Hotel Casino gives it an advantage, but the food and energy are what keep people talking.
“We’re proud of what’s coming out of that kitchen,” says Miki. “Now it’s just about getting more people to walk through the door.”
A Local Favourite with a Global Feel
Soy Kitchen may still feel like a hidden gem, but its future is anything but quiet. It is fast becoming one of Cairns’ most dynamic venues — a place where flavour, service and style all work together to deliver something fresh and unexpected.
This is not just a spot for a quick bite. It is a vibrant, evolving venue where street food is reimagined with heart and skill.
So, if you are looking for something casual yet creative, loud in flavour but easy on the wallet, Soy Kitchen Street Food is ready to show you just how far Asian fusion can go in Far North Queensland.
Soy Kitchen
The Reef Hotel Casino 35-41 Wharf St Cairns 4030 8770
Monkeys, Miso & Mastery: Yama Zaru Izakaya
In Cairns—the unofficial capital of tropical escapism—it takes something special to surprise. We’ve got rainforest skyrails, reef snorkels before breakfast, crocodile parks, and cocktails garnished with sugarcane. But just off Sheridan Street, tucked between the ghosts of eateries past, stands a venue that doesn’t merely surprise—it transports.
Yama Zaru Izakaya is no ordinary eatery. Named for the “mountain monkey” and lovingly cloaked in a riot of cherry blossoms, lacquered timber, and Tokyo backstreet ephemera, it’s not just a place to eat—it’s a portal. Step inside and you’ll instinctively reach for your slippers. The menu reads like a love letter to Tokyo. The atmosphere hums with quiet reverence. And the food? It doesn’t shout. It whispers—in umami.
The man behind this beautifully orchestrated madness? Adam Craven-Sands. A front-of-house virtuoso turned restaurateur, Adam might just be Cairns’ most passionate Japanophile. With decades of experience in the region’s best dining rooms and over sixty trips to Japan under his belt, he’s not a tourist— he’s a devotee. A student of the culture, the cuisine, and the countless izakayas that have fed him soul and miso on frosty Tokyo nights.
“I started learning Japanese just to connect better with guests,” Adam says. “But the deeper I went, the more I fell in love with it all—the language, the hospitality, the rituals. Yama Zaru is my way of bringing that love home.”
And he’s done it with extraordinary care. From the walls—lined with vintage beer posters, handlettered menu boards and ramen shop curios—to the lanterns, and crockery hand-carried from Japan, every detail has meaning. The ceiling is thatched like a countryside ryokan. There are no shortcuts, no gimmicks, and no souvenir-shop styling here.
In 2024, Adam took his cultural commitment even further, earning his certification as an Sake Professional through the Sake Sommelier Association in London. The framed certificate now hangs discreetly behind the bar, but what it represents is years of immersion—tasting, travelling, and learning.
“I didn’t want to just serve sake,” Adam explains. “I wanted to understand it, represent it properly, and help people enjoy it the way it’s meant to be enjoyed.”
The result is one of the most carefully curated sake menus in regional Australia. Whether it’s a crisp junmai daiginjo, a lively namazake, or an earthy yamahai, each bottle has been hand-picked to tell
a story—and to pair precisely with the food. The beer list, too, is considered: imported Japanese favourites including imported Asahi and Sapporo Nest White are served just as they would be in Shibuya, poured fresh and cold.
But let’s talk about the food.
Yama Zaru’s menu leans into tradition, but doesn’t cling to it for nostalgia’s sake. Ramen bowls are deep, rich, and restorative—crafted with patience and purpose. There’s no over-stuffing, no novelty inclusions. Just flavour, balance, and warmth.
The gyoza arrive golden and blistered, filled with perfectly seasoned pork or vegetable mixes that showcase texture as much as taste. Steamed octopus is a standout: tender, lightly smoky, and bright with citrus. It’s the kind of dish that demands silence between bites.
Even the humble edamame gets a glow-up, kissed with yuzu and chilli. Rice bowls are generous but refined. Sashimi is clean, precise, and unembellished. Vegetarians are thoughtfully catered for, with dishes like sesame-dressed tofu salad and grilled eggplant that feel composed rather than compulsory.
Open every day, Yama Zaru fills a niche few venues in Cairns attempt—an after-hours eatery that doesn’t slip into snack-mode. Whether you’re a solo diner seeking quiet solace at the bar, a group grazing through small plates, or a post-work crew toasting with sake, there’s room for you.
And it’s that hospitality, perhaps more than anything else, that defines Yama Zaru.
There’s a Japanese word: omotenashi. It roughly translates to wholehearted hospitality, but it’s more than that. It’s the unspoken art of anticipating needs before they’re voiced. It’s in the warm welcome. In the staff who explain sake and food with enthusiasm but never pretension. In the way the service glides, quietly but attentively, from table to table.
Yama Zaru doesn’t try to be trendy. It doesn’t chase fads. There’s no gimmicky fusion, no Instagram bait, no buzzword-laden menu. What you’ll find instead is thoughtful food, beautifully executed. A room that rewards curiosity. A place that invites you to stay a little longer than planned.
In Adam Craven-Sands, Cairns has not only a restaurateur, but a cultural custodian—someone who’s taken his lifelong love affair with Japan and translated it into something tangible, and delicious. Yama Zaru isn’t just his restaurant. It’s his story. Told in ramen, miso, and sake.
And that story keeps evolving. In addition to regular service, Adam now hosts sake tasting and pairing evenings—immersive, unpretentious sessions where guests can explore regional varieties, learn about rice polishing ratios, and discover how sake can transform a meal. It’s not a lecture. It’s an invitation. To sip, to savour, and to fall just a little more in love with Japanese food culture.
Whether you’re a seasoned sake drinker or a curious newcomer, these events offer something rare: the chance to learn directly from someone who doesn’t just serve sake—he reveres it. And in true Yama Zaru fashion, the experience is grounded in warmth, generosity, and a quiet sense of ceremony.
So whether you come for the ramen, linger for the sake, or simply follow the scent of authenticity off Sheridan Street, Yama Zaru offers more than just
a meal—it offers a moment. A pause. A beautifully balanced collision of culture, comfort, and culinary craft. In a city that thrives on escape and encounter, Adam Craven-Sands has created something rare: a space that feels both transported and grounded, foreign yet familiar. It’s not just the closest thing to Japan in the Far North—it’s a reminder of what hospitality can be when it’s done with heart, obsession, and unflinching attention to detail.
45 Sheridan St, Cairns 0413 220 398
Yamazaru
Also Worth a Look:
There’s something undeniably right about the way Far North Queensland does Asian food. The climate conspires in its favour—sticky, tropical, perfumed with frangipani and the faint tang of sea breeze. The ingredients are here too: kaffir lime, coriander, finger lime, chilli, mango, seafood so fresh it sometimes feels self-aware. But more than all of that, there’s a natural rhythm in this region—a lightness of touch—that pairs beautifully with the cuisines of Asia.
What’s most compelling is how Asian food in FNQ has evolved beyond replication. We’re not dealing in carbon copies of Bangkok or Tokyo or Hanoi. What we find instead is something more expressive— interpretations shaped by beachside kitchens, creative chefs, and a local population that’s adventurous enough to know the difference between authenticity and art.
Take Little Sister, perched right on the Cairns Esplanade. It doesn’t shout from the boardwalk— but once the laksa arrives, bold and resonant, you understand. Roti is crisp-edged, torn for smoky sambals that hum with heat. Fried chicken—karaage-style—is blistered, judiciously salted. It’s hawker food sharpened, elevated, and utterly street-smart. Right where reef breeze and city shuffle collide.
In Cairns, Iyara by Sakare offers a counterpoint—where Thai flavours meet a sense of poise. The setting, overlooking the inlet, speaks softly. The kitchen, thankfully, does not. Grilled pork neck arrives with a tamarind dipping sauce that dances on the edge of caramel. Red curry with duck and lychee leans into its sweetness before pulling back with spice. The service is crisp, the plating confident. This is Thai food that remembers the rulebook, then edits it in-house.
Just a few blocks inland, Four Cinq continues the conversation in another direction entirely. Japanese in style but unmistakably local in spirit, this is food for people who like a little thinking with their dining. Dishes arrive with precision —Yoshi is a master of his trade. Chawanmushi is reimagined with local ingredients, its silkiness offset by the faintest crunch of native seeds.
The Asian Style
There’s an academic quality to the menu—but it never forgets to feed you well. In lesser hands, it would feel like a foreigner. Here, it feels like a gift.
Beach Almond, which we’ve already covered in our seafood feature, bears repeating—not out of obligation, but delight. Its unapologetically coastal take on Modern Asian delivers exuberant, fiery freshness. Betel leaves heaped with soft-shell crab and pickled pawpaw. Caramel pork dancing beside jungle herbs. It’s confident, it’s coast-happy, it’s pure FNQ.
What binds these venues isn’t geography or genre but temperament. There’s a generosity of flavour and spirit in each place—not pastiche, but conversation. They reflect the abundance of the north: seafood, sunshine, spice. And also its mindset: curious, relaxed, gently fearless.
Asian food in FNQ isn’t a sideshow—it’s a central act. Suburban alleys or marquee kitchens alike, these restaurants show up with barefoot precision. They honour tradition, yet still taste of right now.
In a region where reef meets rainforest and the past meets tomorrow, these kitchens do more than feed—they tell stories of influence, imagination, and very good taste.
Little Sister
101 The Esplanade, Cairns 07 4031 5400 | little-sister.com.au
145 Williams Esplanade, Palm Cove 07 4059 1908 | beachalmond.com.au
Iyara by Sakare
Little Sister
From the Med to the Tropics: How Greek and Mediterranean Cuisine
The Mediterranean and Far North Queensland might be separated by continents and oceans, but the food philosophies they share are striking. Both celebrate freshness, seasonality, and a deep cultural connection to land and sea. So it’s little surprise that Greek and broader Mediterranean cuisines have not only found a home here—but flourished.
The FNQ climate mirrors that of southern Europe, lending itself to the same kinds of produce: tomatoes that taste of sunshine, cucumbers with crunch, seafood straight from the boat, lemons as sharp as they are aromatic. When combined with quality olive oil, local herbs, and a healthy appetite for grilled meats and shared feasts, it’s easy to see why this cuisine resonates so well with locals and visitors alike.
Greek food, especially, fits the rhythm of life here. It’s generous, earthy, unfussy—and all about togetherness. Whether it’s in the crackling edge of spitroasted lamb, the briny comfort of feta, or the sweetness of honey-drizzled loukoumades, there’s a soulfulness that speaks directly to the heart of FNQ’s multicultural food culture.
In this edition, we spotlight Ya Yá’s Hellenic Kitchen, where the name alone—Greek for grandmother—sets the tone. This family-run Cairns favourite doesn’t just serve traditional recipes, it
Feeds the FNQ Soul
preserves them. Every dish is a love letter to heritage: slow-cooked, passed down, and plated with care. There’s warmth here that goes beyond the oven—it’s in the welcome, the storytelling, and the community around the table.
Other venues offer their own Mediterranean perspectives. Piato Mediterranean, a long-standing restaurant on the Cairns waterfront, delivers a cosmopolitan yet comforting experience, blending Greek staples with broader regional influences and showcasing North Queensland produce with integrity. In addition, El Greko Taverna brings a traditional island-style approach to the table, complete with rustic charm and a menu steeped in authenticity—from chargrilled meats and village salads to plates that transport you straight to a sun-drenched courtyard in Santorini.
Together, these kitchens reflect how Mediterranean cuisine—especially when rooted in Greek tradition—can evolve while staying true to its heart. In FNQ, it’s not a transplant. It’s a natural fit.
So, whether you’re craving moussaka under the mango trees or dreaming of dolmades by the Coral Sea, rest assured: the flavours of the Mediterranean are alive and well in the tropics—and they’re absolutely worth the journey.
Yaya’s Hellenic Kitchen:
A
New
Chapter, the Same Greek Soul
There’s a moment when you crest the last step to Yaya’s Hellenic Kitchen and the world softens. The breeze drifts in from the Esplanade, the scent of grilled halloumi and lemon-laced seafood hangs gently in the air, and there’s a feeling — hard to name, easy to feel — that you’ve arrived somewhere both new and familiar.
At Yaya’s, that feeling is no accident. It’s been cultivated for over a decade by George and Helen Papagelou, who brought their love for Greek cuisine and hospitality from Melbourne to Cairns in 2014. Their vision? A place that echoed the warmth of a Greek family kitchen — not just in flavour, but in feeling.
Now, that legacy is evolving. Stephen Papagelou, their son, has stepped into the role of operations manager, bringing a fresh energy to the business while staying fiercely loyal to the ethos that built Yaya’s: authenticity, hospitality, and a love for great food shared generously.
“We’re not reinventing the wheel,” Stephen tells us over coffee at their sister venue, Villa Romana. “We’re making sure it rolls even better.”
That means refining service, sharpening back-ofhouse systems, and investing in people — many of whom
have been with Yaya’s since the early days. Kosta Kalantzis, the affable and unflappable restaurant manager, remains a cornerstone. “Kosta’s not just a manager,” Stephen says, “he’s part of the family — and for a lot of our regulars, he’s part of their family, too.”
In the hands of Stephen and his close-knit team, Yaya’s continues to honour its namesake — “Yaya” meaning grandmother — with dishes that are heartfelt, generous, and deeply rooted in tradition. The menu remains a celebration of Greek classics done right: slow-cooked meats, sun-kissed vegetables, house-made pastries, and seafood that sings of the sea.
The mezedes — those lively, generous share plates — still set the tone for a meal at Yaya’s. There’s the smoky Melitzanosalata, the handmade Dolmadakia, and of course, the beloved Spanakopita, rich with feta and encased in golden, flaky filo. These dishes aren’t just crowd-pleasers — they’re touchstones, recipes passed down, refined, and served with pride.
But the kitchen isn’t standing still. Under Stephen’s guidance, there’s a subtle shift toward balance and sustainability. Seasonal tweaks are increasingly guided
by what’s fresh and local, with FNQ’s seafood playing a starring role. The Tigani — local fish fillets and prawns bubbling in tomato, garlic, and white wine — remains a showstopper, while lighter options like grilled octopus with lemon and herbs cater to both traditional palates and contemporary tastes.
And then there are the desserts — indulgent, unapologetic, and entirely handmade. Baklava remains the queen of the table, drenched in honey and layered with spice-kissed nuts. A recent addition, Galaktoboureko — a custard-filled filo pie — is winning over diners with its silky centre and honey-syrup glaze.
Yaya’s elevated position on the Esplanade remains one of its quiet superpowers. By day, it’s a front-row seat to the buzz of Cairns; by night, it’s a candlelit balcony escape, the kind of place where time slows and conversations stretch. “People come here to mark moments,” Stephen says. “Anniversaries, birthdays, reunions — but also just good, long dinners with old friends.”
What’s striking is how seamlessly the baton is passing from one generation to the next. With their many years of experience — George and Helen have instilled in Stephen a profound understanding of what Yaya’s truly represents.
“It’s not just a restaurant,” he says. “It’s an extension of our family table. Every person who walks in should feel that.”
As we finish our conversation, staff drift past — waving, laughing, checking on prep for the evening. There’s an ease, a rhythm here that only comes when a team feels connected, when the purpose is clear and shared.
In a town full of eateries chasing trends, Yaya’s stays grounded in something more enduring: generosity, quality, and heart. With Stephen now steering the ship, supported by a loyal team, Yaya’s isn’t just holding its place in Cairns’ dining scene — it’s elevating it.
So come hungry. Come curious. Come ready to linger a little longer. Yaya’s will be here, just as it’s always been — with arms wide, plates full, and a spirit that feels like home.
Yaya’s
Taste Port Douglas 2025: Where the Jungle Meets the Stove
There are festivals. And then there’s Taste Port Douglas. Now in its ninth incarnation—an age where most events are still fumbling with logistics—this sun-soaked bacchanalia has graduated into a full-blown pilgrimage for the food obsessed. Set across four sultry days from 7 to 10 August 2025, it’s a glorious clattering of knives, napkins and North Queensland exuberance.
You can think of it as Far North Queensland’s answer to Cannes, only with more mud crab and fewer egos. And yes, the culinary equivalent of a red carpet is laid across the entire town: from the dappled shade of Dickson’s Inlet to the mossy hush of rainforest clearings. This year, the chefs descend in force—proper heavy-hitters from here and abroad—and the only thing sharper than their knives is their repartee.
Let’s Start with the Madness
Your best bet? The Foodie Weekend Pass. This golden ticket gets you through the gates of gastronomic heaven: the sparkly Festival Launch Party, VIP Village access (read: shade, Champagne, and somewhere to lean while you chew), the soul-lifting Festival Closing Party, plus access to one Masterclass and one Takeover Series event.
The Village Pulse
Come Saturday and Sunday, Festival Village throws open its metaphorical barn doors from 10AM. Two stages buzz with chef demos, panel rants, and live music while punters weave between stalls offering everything from native-infused gin to whatever Michelin-grade marvel Colin Fassnidge
happens to be dishing up. There’s also Estrella Damm, Tequila Tromba, and the kind of snacks that make you briefly consider abandoning your life and starting an artisanal chutney business.
Luncheon, but Make it Epic
The Lexus Australia Long Lunch Series seats 600 beneath the Poincianas, where dappled light meets dappled rosé and the seafood speaks in perfect syllables. It’s equal parts ceremony and silliness, with Coral Sea views and a guest list that reads like a who’s who of apron-wearing demigods.
Takeover Time
Then there’s the Takeover Series, backed by Singapore Airlines, which invites elite chefs to run amok in local kitchens—from high-end rainforest hideaways to barefoot beachside bolt-holes. If you’ve never eaten chargrilled prawn toast while a green tree frog chirps approval nearby, here’s your chance.
The Nerdy Bit: Masterclasses
At Harrison’s restaurant (Sheraton Grand Mirage), the Masterclass Series becomes the festival’s thinking-man’s playground. With just 24 seats per session, you’ll learn, laugh, and inevitably burn something in your own kitchen later trying to recreate it.
Among the stars:
• Roger Pizey—the pastry don from Fortnum & Mason—doles out secrets of the world’s sultriest tarte tatin.
• Giuseppe Minoia and Andrea Ravezzani—mozzarellastretchers and burrata whisperers—craft edible opera.
• Michael Wilson (Marguerite, Singapore)—Michelin-anointed and maddeningly charming— reveals how precision and play can share a plate.
Other sessions feature names like Darren Purchese, Nelly Robinson, Ryan Clift, and Matt Preston waxing lyrical about everything from sweet science to the merits of storytelling via soup.
Four
Days. One Delicious Blur.
• Thursday opens the curtains with oysters, tequila tales, and Roger’s pastry gospel.
• Friday layers long lunches with cheesemaking and culinary yarns.
• Saturday brings Festival Village chaos and rainforest fire feasting.
• Sunday wraps it all up with Tikaram’s Cantonese craft and the festival’s last, glorious hurrah.
Get In While the Prawns Are Hot Early-bird tickets (tasteportdouglas.com.au) are available until 30 June. Frankly, if you love food and you’re not booking something—anything—then what are you doing with your August?
Taste Port Douglas isn’t just an event. It’s a state of mind. One where shoes are optional, flavour is king, and the world’s best chefs are somehow sweating just as much as you are. Come hungry.
Taste Port Douglas
Mungalli Biodynamic Dairy: The Cultivated Wild
By the time you reach the undulating hills of Millaa Millaa, the road seems to unspool like ribbon through World Heritage Rainforest and pasture. Mungalli Creek Biodynamic Dairy, perched amid this lush, cloud-tickled hinterland, feels less like a working farm and more like a living canvas. Cows graze lush pastures, under silver quandongs and native fig trees. The air is laced with the scent of the rainforest and fresh mountain air, and somewhere in the underbrush, a cassowary or agile wallaby might be watching.
For the Watson family, this is more than a postcard—it’s their home, their workplace, and their quiet rebellion against industrialised agriculture.
“It all started with a simple realisation,” says Rob Watson, Farmer and CEO, as if he’s recounting a folk tale.
“
We weren’t just growing pastures, cows and milk. We were growing soil, biodiversity, farm and community resilience.
Mungalli Creek Dairy began as a conventional dairy, but by the late 1980s, brothers Rob and Danny Watson had begun to question the status quo. Their father had run the farm with typical mid-century practices — artificial fertilisers, herbicides and a strong focus on yield over soil health. But the next generation took a different path, wanting a natural regenerative focus both on soil and human health. Biodynamics— once the fringe domain of winegrowers and mystics— became their guiding philosophy.
“It’s about treating the farm as a living organism,” Rob explains. “Everything is connected. The cows, the pastures, the soil, forest margins, even the planetary and moon cycles.”
The land responded in kind. Where once there had been just a few tropical grasses and occasional
legumes, now the paddocks sway with a mosaic of native legumes, chicory, plantain, and clover—and at times over 15 different grass and pasture species. Thirty percent of the farm has been handed back to nature— riparian zones rewilded, gullies replanted. Michelle Bell-Turner, Rob’s partner, notes, “We’ve had rainforest and cassowaries, native gliders, and a plethora of wildlife return. It’s not just about dairying. It’s about a healthy food and land for now and future generations.”
Rob, ever the quiet philosopher-farmer, puts it another way: “The result of Biodynamics is like magic, it’s something we don’t always entirely understand, as it extends beyond science into the world of quantum physics, giving it a mystery and magic. There’s a spiritual element to it, where the farm, farmer, land and cosmos are all connected. I’ve been studying it for 40 years and still don’t fully comprehend it. But I don’t need to. It works and the proof is in the soil, pastures and products we produce.”
Milk with Memory
Mungalli’s flagship product—their creamtop, unhomogenised milk—is a throwback to what milk used to be before global supply chains and homogenisation and standardisation took the romance out of it. “We don’t strip it, we don’t mess with it, we don’t homogenise it,” says Michelle. “We let the cream
rise to the top and trust that people appreciate having the product as close to natural as possible without any nasties.”
This ethos extends across their range: Greekstyle yoghurts that taste like they were spooned from a terracotta pot in Thessaly; soft cheeses that sing with the tang of terroir; lactose-free premium iced coffee and chocolate enriched with probiotics, not preservatives. Their quark and ricotta, smooth European-style curds, have quietly built a cult following among chefs and nutritionists. “We want people to taste the goodness that comes from the Biodynamic stewardship of the land,” Michelle says.
Storms and Silver Linings
In 2006, Cyclone Larry tore through the Tablelands like a divine tantrum, flattening rainforest, ripping roofs, and flooding pastures. For Mungalli, it was a turning point. “We lost fences, we lost power, but what we didn’t lose was our purpose,” Rob recalls. “After that, we doubled down on resilience.”
Post-cyclone, the farm kept their focus on regenerative practices. Expanding their number of farms, planting more trees and supporting small family farms. The herd—a carefully bred blend of Jersey, Brown Swiss, and Aussie Red— is genetically robust for natural farming.
They also began producing more niche products, and ensuring they maintained control and sovereignty of their product from paddock to shelf. “It was about ensuring we could maintain quality and protect the integrity of what we make,” Rob says.
“Now, when we have to deal with weather extremes, we know we’ve built a farm that is resilient and can handle the ups and downs,” he adds. “And more importantly, bounce back stronger.”
Local, with a Big Vision
Despite its remote setting, Mungalli Creek Biodynamic Dairy has grown into one of the region’s most recognisable dairy labels, with a footprint stretching from Cairns to Melbourne and west to Perth and into boutique grocers further afield. But they haven’t let scale erode soul.
“We support other local biodynamic farms,” Michelle says. “We’re not interested in monopolising— we’re interested in multiplying goodness.”
Their recently expanded $3 million processing facility is designed not just for volume, but for versatility. It allows them to experiment with small-batch cheeses, seasonal flavours (Davidson’s plum yoghurt, anyone?), and new formats without sacrificing quality.
That facility, and the ethos it supports, has also created jobs—real, regional jobs—in a time when rural
communities are watching services and populations retreat.
“We’re big enough to matter, but small enough to care,” Michelle says. “And that’s exactly where we want to be, a family farm caring about families, community and other small farms.”
The Taste of Place
To sip Mungalli’s milk or spoon through its silky quark is to taste Far North Queensland itself—its volcanic soils, its shifting mists, its edge-of-the-world beauty. It’s not a product, really. It’s a conversation between cow, farmer, and landscape.
This is food that speaks of time, of place, and of people who’ve chosen to dance with nature, not dominate it.
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We’re just trying to stay in rhythm with nature, Rob says. Because when you do, it sings back.
In Praise of This Hand-Held Yellow Fruit:
The Unsung Hero of Far North Queensland
Let us take a moment—between mouthfuls of chilli mud crab and locally distilled gin—to sing the praises of a fruit so familiar, so quietly omnipresent, it is nearly invisible in its cultural ubiquity: the banana. But not just any banana. No, we are talking about the stalwart, sun-kissed, cyclone-dodging banana of Far North Queensland, the fruit that props up this corner of the continent with all the tenacity of a tropical Atlas.
Far North Queensland produces an eye-watering 94% of the nation’s bananas. That’s not a statistic—it’s a regional flex. From Lakeland to Mission Beach, Innisfail to Tully, this fruit is king. The banana is our quiet achiever, a crop that doesn’t so much announce itself with fanfare as it does with the occasional fluorescent sticker and an unassuming spot in every child’s lunchbox.
These bananas don’t just happen. They are cultivated— coaxed, coddled, and occasionally cursed—by a battalion of growers who rise before dawn, knee-deep in volcanic soil that smells of possibility and decomposing foliage. This is agriculture as an endurance sport, played out across 13,000 hectares of green devotion, under a sky that is as generous with rain as it is with threats of ruin.
The economics? Impressive. Over half a billion dollars a year. The workforce? In the thousands, though exact figures dance about as evasively as a wallaby on wet clay. Each bunch of bananas is harvested with the solemnity of a ritual—cut green, hauled by hand, processed with precision, and eventually ripened into that dependable curve we all know. That gentle arc, yellow and sometimes freckled, is a parable of consistency in an otherwise unpredictable world.
Diseases like Panama TR4 and Bunchy Top lurk at the farm gate like plot twists in a horror novel. But FNQ
growers, armed with science and stubbornness, soldier on. They experiment with resistant cultivars, deploy drones with the sort of fervour once reserved for military exercises, and practise biosecurity like monks reciting scripture.
And yet, this is a fruit that remains humble. It doesn’t require peeling instructions or a serving suggestion. It travels in its own biodegradable packet. It is snack, sustenance, and smile all in one.
Consider the banana as a cultural artefact. It bridges generations, slipping into schoolbags and smoothies with equal ease. It’s what athletes grab at half-time, what tradies munch on the way to a job site, and what exhausted parents offer toddlers mid-tantrum.
If terroir is the soul of wine, then let us extend that reverence to the banana. Taste the FNQ banana—truly taste it—and you’ll find more than sweetness. You’ll get the tang of tropical rain, the mineral heft of basalt soil, and the trace of a grower’s morning sweat. You’ll taste resilience.
So here’s to the banana. Unpretentious. Underappreciated. Utterly indispensable. In the grand pantheon of Far North Queensland produce, it may not wear the haute couture of exotic fungi or native finger limes, but it is, without doubt, the people’s fruit.
Next time you peel one—preferably with the lazy flourish of someone reclining in a hammock—spare a thought for the hands that raised it, the storms it survived, and the region it sustains.
FNQ’s bananas: not just fruit, but an edible biography of a region.
In Praise of the Stalk That Built a Region: FNQ’s
Sugarcane Legacy
Cast your gaze across the sweeping plains of Far North Queensland and it’s not hard to see what fuels the heart of this region. No, not the reef, nor the rainforest, nor even the mango—though all are splendid in their own right. It’s the cane. Sugarcane. That regimented green sprawl marching towards the horizon, whispering tales of industry, ancestry, and adaptation.
Here in FNQ, sugarcane is not just a crop—it’s a character. An old one. Stubborn, resilient, occasionally a bit cranky in the wet season, but never less than essential. Since the 1800s, this monocotyledonous overachiever has been the economic spine of the north. Today, Queensland grows around 95% of the nation’s sugarcane, and while mills have shuttered and futures markets wavered, the cane endures.
Drive between Mossman and Innisfail and you’ll pass through landscapes carved by cane. Around 12,000 hectares of it in FNQ alone. In summer, it rises like a green wall. In harvest season, it falls to the blades of mechanised beasts—harvesters that roar with the fury of a tropical storm, chewing through the crop with frightening grace.
The process begins, like all good dramas, with a humble beginning: setts, the cuttings that sprout anew. Twelve to sixteen months later, weather willing, you’ve got a field ready to cut, a small battalion of sweetness ready for transformation. And then the journey—via train or truck—to the mills, those smoking relics of Queensland’s industrial romance. Fewer now than ever, but no less iconic.
Sugar mills once defined entire communities. The whistle at shift change, the soot on your collar, the unmistakable scent of molasses thick in the air—it was more than industry; it was identity. Tales of old mill towns linger: of generations working shoulder to shoulder, of harvest balls and hard-fought rugby derbies, of smoke stacks lighting up the dusk like sentinels of the
past. While their number has dwindled, their cultural weight endures.
Over 4,500 people still depend directly on the cane industry, and many more ripple outward from its economic wake. Yet, the shape of this industry is changing. No longer content to simply sweeten the nation’s tea, sugarcane is finding new purpose. Research into bio-based products is accelerating, with particular focus on bio-plastics, compostable packaging, and most promising of all—aviation fuel. Yes, that plane overhead may soon run on the same green stalk swaying in the paddocks below.
And yet, as with so many icons, sugarcane walks a tightrope. Global health campaigns cast it as villain. Climate change toys with its growing conditions. Cyclones, pests, salinity—take your pick of existential threats. Even sweetness, it seems, is political these days.
But don’t count cane out just yet. The industry, like the people who farm it, is evolving. Precision ag, biotech breakthroughs, varietals bred for endurance not just yield—there’s a quiet revolution underfoot. Cane is not going gentle into that good night. It is adapting. Rebranding. Digging in its fibrous heels.
What cane offers, beyond the sugar and the rum and the visceral beauty of a burning field at dusk, is continuity. It ties generations together. It anchors FNQ’s economic narrative. And it reminds us that agriculture isn’t just about food or money—it’s about identity. About place.
So next time you sip something sweet, or drive past a field rippling like green corduroy under a stormy sky, think of the cane. Think of the hands that plant it, the machines that harvest it, and the mills that still, somehow, keep turning.
FNQ’s sugarcane: part crop, part culture, all heart.
How Skybury is Redefining Papaya in Australia Fruit, Art, Identity
If papaya had a publicist, her name would be Candy MacLaughlin. As general manager of Skybury Farm—Australia’s largest producer of red papaya—Candy isn’t just growing fruit. She’s building a movement.
Skybury’s pivot to papaya began as a strategic shift. Coffee, while a cornerstone of the business since 1987, is seasonal and increasingly niche. Papaya, by contrast, grows year-round, providing steady employment and reliable returns. But it quickly became more than a commercial decision. “Papaya is perfect for our climate. It’s sustainable. It’s nutritious. But most people don’t know what to do with it,” Candy explains. “That’s where we come in.”
So, in 2023 she created Papaya Week—a grassroots campaign designed to raise the fruit’s profile in cafés, restaurants, and kitchens across the country. Launched first in Cairns and later rolled out in Bundaberg, the initiative saw participating venues experiment with papaya dishes, engage customers through tastings and demos, and spark a much-needed national conversation. “It’s fun, it’s dynamic, and it gets people talking,” Candy says. “That’s the goal: keep papaya top of mind.”
The project’s success proved what Candy already suspected—there’s appetite for a new fruit narrative. And Skybury was well-placed to deliver it.
One of the biggest lessons from Papaya Week wasn’t culinary, but logistical. A conversation revealed chefs loved the fruit and the boxes took the product to kitchens all over the country. That feedback inspired Candy’s next innovation: The Fruit Box Show. “We send 20,000 boxes a week. That’s a huge canvas,” she says. Why not use it?
Partnering with Caffiend and local artists, Skybury transformed its shipping cartons into vibrant, mobile artworks. The winning designs—selected through a public competition—now travel across Australia, turning once-discarded boxes into miniature billboards for creativity, sustainability, and regional pride. “It’s branding, yes,” Candy admits. “But it’s also identity. It gets people to look again—and to look closer.”
Skybury’s brand of quiet disruption doesn’t stop there. Working with FNQ Spirits, they’ve developed a suite of papaya-based beverages: schnapps, vodka, and a coffee liqueur. A line of skincare products, using
papaya seed oil and created in collaboration with local entrepreneur Melissa Bond, demonstrates their commitment to value-adding and waste reduction.
Even imperfect fruit—the kind that fails to meet supermarket spec—isn’t wasted. It’s blended into chutneys, purees, and cocktails; sold directly at the farm gate; or used in tastings and cooking demos. “Sustainability isn’t a slogan for us,” Candy says. “It’s embedded in how we operate.”
And while papaya is the focus, the bigger picture is regional identity. “We grow some of the best produce in
the country,” Candy says. “But we lack a unifying brand. There’s no equivalent of the ‘Tasmanian label’ or the Margaret River halo. We want to change that.”
By casting papaya as both a literal and symbolic product of Far North Queensland—nutritious, vibrant, and underappreciated—Skybury is leading a quiet revolution. It’s not just about putting more fruit in fridges. It’s about giving people a reason to care about where their fruit comes from.
“This isn’t just a Skybury story,” Candy insists. “It’s a regional one. And it’s only just getting started.”
136 Ivicevic Road, Mareeba 4093 2194
Skybury
Hooked on the Good Life: A Day at Grab a Barra
Fifteen minutes north of Cairns, where the suburbia starts to fray and the landscape turns to mangrove and creek, lies a place where you can catch your lunch, meet a mud crab, and eat flame-grilled seafood while being respectfully mindful of the resident crocodiles. This is not a tourist trap with a gift shop exit. This is Grab a Barra—a working saltwater barramundi farm with a bush kitchen, an emerging education centre, and a mission to make the fish on your plate a little more meaningful.
The setting alone is worth the visit. The ponds ripple with silver as barra cruise beneath the surface, birds wheel overhead (more than 120 species, if you’re counting), and the scent of wood smoke drifts across the water. It’s calm, it’s real, and it’s remarkably accessible. As the editor observed during our visit, “people drive further to get milk in the morning.”
The property, formerly a prawn farm, was purchased and transformed into a barramundi operation
by Gary Low four years ago, in partnership with Geoff Pohlner. Together, Gary and Geoff have brought their complementary strengths to the project—Gary with a clear vision for a food-and-tourism destination, and Geoff instrumental in the hands-on development and daily operations that make the farm function. Their shared commitment to quality, sustainability, and authenticity is embedded in every aspect of Grab a Barra.
Saltwater, not freshwater, is the key here. “Our barra taste different because we keep the ponds salty,” Gary explains. “We don’t recirculate after the rains. It makes all the difference.”
“We sell around five tonnes of barramundi a week,” Gary says. “One tonne stays local, and the rest goes to Sydney. It goes quickly. People know it’s good.” And it is. Raised on-site in saltwater ponds, the fish are clean-flavoured and firm-fleshed. They’re not just photogenic—they’re delicious.
From the start, Gary and Geoff saw the potential for something more than aquaculture. The place practically invites exploration. With the addition of catch-and-release fishing, cook-your-own-barramundi barbecues, and now the slow-burn construction of a formal education and research centre, Grab a Barra is becoming a destination in its own right. There’s talk of birdwatching trails, school group partnerships, and expanded community access.
Spanning a diverse landscape of saltwater ponds, winding creeks, and lush mangroves, Grab a Barra offers more than just fishing—it provides an immersive journey into the heart of Far North Queensland’s aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems. The farm tour begins with a ride in a five-seater Can-Am side-by-side vehicle, an off-road utility vehicle designed for navigating rugged terrains with ease and comfort. This adventure takes visitors through fields of cane and picturesque mangrove ecosystems offering opportunities for birdwatching and sugarcane tasting sessions. The tour culminates at the creek, where guests can try their hand at catching mud crabs, adding an interactive and educational component to the experience. This blend of exploration and hands-on activity showcases the farm’s commitment to sustainable practices and provides a deeper understanding of the region’s rich biodiversity. It’s in the simplicity of the experience—a rod in hand, a crab pulled fresh from the creek, a fish grilled by the river. We spent the afternoon doing exactly that. After a farm tour, Gary and team led us to the water’s
edge, where a fire was lit and a freshly caught mud crab—fat, feisty, and utterly unaware of his culinary destiny—was introduced to chilli, smoke, and heat.
Amy, our host and chef for the day, kept things unfussy and elemental. The crab was cooked whole over flame, cracked, plated, and shared communally under the trees. No garnish. No fanfare. Just sweet, briny flesh touched with fire and a flicker of heat. The kind of food that makes you grateful and greedy in the same breath.
This is the difference at Grab a Barra. It could have been just a fishing adventure, and that would have been enough. But it isn’t. It’s a food experience, anchored in place, and elevated by the kind of freshness that simply can’t be faked.
Alongside the aquaculture and tourism, Grab a Barra also maintains an on-site apiary, adding another layer to its sustainability ethos. The bees play their part in the local ecosystem while producing a rich, locally flavoured honey—yet another taste of place for visitors to sample and learn about.
The experience is also designed to be inclusive. With level access, accessible amenities, and activities suitable for all ages and abilities, Grab a Barra welcomes families, seniors, and visitors with mobility challenges alike. It’s as much a space for first-time fishers as it is for seasoned outdoor enthusiasts.
Visitors can choose to catch and release, catch and cook, or catch and take home. Rods and bait are provided, and the kitchen setup is communal and flexible. Want to try your hand at barbecue barramundi with lemongrass and lime? You can. Prefer to just catch your dinner and let someone else handle the heat? That can be arranged too. The atmosphere is easygoing, and the staff are there to help, not hover.
It’s this blend of authenticity and hospitality that sets Grab a Barra apart. There’s a kind of grassroots polish to the place—thoughtful but not overworked, curated but never contrived. Gary and Geoff are both hands-on, each bringing a different kind of energy and know-how, and both deeply invested in creating something of lasting value—even as they rebuild what Cyclone Jasper tore through not long ago.
The farm still bears traces of that storm—a ride-on mower once found upside-down in the creek, rebuilt infrastructure, a future education hub rising from the mud. But there’s resilience here, too. And a vision that includes not just great fish, but meaningful encounters: with food, with place, and with each other.
Bring your family, bring your visitors, bring your mates who think fishing is boring or seafood’s just for restaurants. Then watch them light up when they pull a 70cm barra from the pond, or tear into a chilli crab that was scuttling in the creek an hour before.
At Grab a Barra, it’s not just about the catch. It’s about what you do with it next.
Grab A Barra 2/46 Walkers Road, Yorkeys Knob
Hooked on Quality:
The Little Tuna Story
In a marketplace saturated with forgettable tins and fishy origin stories, one Far North Queensland company is quietly rewriting the rules. Little Tuna, based in Cairns, is not your average pantry staple—it’s a provenance-led powerhouse challenging the global seafood supply chain with something radical: truth in a jar. No filler, no foreign factories. Just clean, line-caught Australian albacore, processed locally with a precision that borders on reverence.
Behind the label are Kate and Rowan Lamason, a husband-and-wife team whose lives are tethered as much to the Coral Sea as to the Cairns kitchen where their idea first took shape. Rowan’s family has fished these waters for more than 30 years, running a fleet of longline tuna boats. Kate, a CPA accountant turned seafood advocate, brought structure, sustainability and a bold vision to the dream. Their core question was simple: Why is Australian tuna being sent overseas for processing, only to return as a generic, anonymous product on supermarket shelves?
The answer was Little Tuna—locally caught, locally processed, and unmistakably premium. In early 2025, they expanded on that answer with the launch of a second brand, East Coast Tuna Co., which delivers the same high-quality Australian tuna with a focus on making it more accessible to more households—while continuing to support Australian fishing families. The new brand quickly drew attention after being featured on ABC’s Landline.
From Coral Sea to Kitchen Table
Little Tuna sources its albacore using sustainable longline fishing methods that limit bycatch and help protect ocean ecosystems. Once landed in Cairns, the tuna is processed in small, carefully managed batches. Each fish is hand-cut, gently steamed (never boiled), and packed into glass jars with a choice of Australiansourced infusions that balance subtlety with punch— think lemon myrtle, chilli, olive oil, and pure spring water. No preservatives. No powdered brine masquerading as flavour.
The result is tuna that doesn’t apologise for being in a jar. It’s firm yet flaky, naturally savoury, and prized by nutritionists, chefs and fastidious home cooks alike. If most commercial tuna tastes like a compromise, Little Tuna tastes like a decision.
A Brand Anchored in Place
Little Tuna began as a small idea in a Cairns kitchen and has since grown into a nationally recognised name in premium preserved seafood. Proudly rooted in Far North Queensland, this family-run business continues to operate from its home base while supporting the broader wild tuna fishing industry, which spans the East Coast in the Eastern Tuna and Billfish Fishery.
Partnering directly with Australian fishing families—from Cairns to Mooloolaba and beyond— Little Tuna exclusively sources sustainably line-caught albacore from waters internationally renowned as some of the most prolific and pristine fishing grounds in the world. Every jar is the product of traceable, responsible fishing and 100% Australian ingredients—making Little Tuna the only company in the country to offer locally caught and preserved Australian tuna at this scale. But their story doesn’t stop at the label. It comes to life through recipes, fisher profiles, and behindthe-scenes moments shared with a growing online community of tuna lovers and conscious consumers.
Leadership in Action
Kate Lamason’s role in reshaping Australia’s seafood landscape continues to gain momentum. In 2023, she completed the National Seafood Industry Leadership Program (NSILP), reinforcing her commitment to sustainability, innovation, and gender equity in the sector. In 2024, she was named the Queensland winner and national finalist in the AgriFutures Rural Women’s Award—recognised for her leadership in driving change within the tuna industry and beyond.
Little Tuna’s impact now reaches well beyond the seafood sector. The brand has been featured in Qantas Travel Insider as a “Big Idea,” appeared twice on ABC’s Landline, and continues to attract national attention for its values-led approach to food and regional manufacturing.
This year, the Lamasons also brought Australian pro surfer Sally Fitzgibbons on board as a brand ambassador, expanding their message around sustainable seafood to a new generation of active, mindful eaters. Collaborations with leading nutritionists and sports professionals further amplify the brand’s commitment to real food that fuels, nourishes, and respects its source.
The East Coast Tuna Co. Story
While Little Tuna remains boutique, jarred, and locally processed, East Coast Tuna Co. offers a practical solution for broader reach. Using the same premium, line-caught albacore from Australian fishing families, the range is tinned offshore in a Marine Stewardship Council (MSC)-certified facility in Thailand—a necessary move, given the lack of large-scale canning infrastructure in Australia.
Each tin carries a QR code linking back to detailed catch information—right down to the vessel and crew—providing a level of transparency more commonly found in wine or single-origin coffee.
“We’re not done, and we’re not giving up on processing locally,” says Kate. “Long term, we want to see Little Tuna bringing largescale canning infrastructure back to Australia. But until then, we’re focused on doing this the right way, not the easy way.”
Food With a Backbone
What sets Little Tuna—and now East Coast Tuna Co.—apart isn’t branding or buzzwords. It’s a rare mix of culinary care, industry integrity, and unwavering transparency. In an era of greenwashing and supply chain sleight-of-hand, the Lamasons have built something lasting, with salt under its nails and values at its core.
Little Tuna isn’t just a local success story—it’s a national movement born in Cairns. Backed by purpose, not just profit, it’s changing how Australians eat tuna and how they think about where it comes from. From the Coral Sea to kitchen tables across the country, this is food you can feel good about—and food that’s helping reshape the future of Australian seafood, one jar (and now one tin) at a time.
Little Tuna
Aumuller St, Portsmith
Rusty’s Markets:
Cairns’ Carnival of Chaos, Colour and Cuisine
It’s 5:02 AM on a Saturday and already the scent of coriander stalks and cane juice hangs heavy in the humid air. Pallets creak, banter bounces in pidgin, Mandarin and broad Australian, and somewhere a blender shrieks into life like a dive-bombing fruit bat. Welcome to Rusty’s Markets—Cairns’ beating heart, where the tropics wake up to a riot of colour, commerce and culinary promise.
For nearly fifty years, Rusty’s has stood not so much as a market but as a living mosaic of FNQ itself: muddyfooted farmers, tattooed backpackers, elders from Yarrabah and Yungaburra, all haggling over rambutans and red papayas as if their lives depended on it. Founded in 1975 by Emrys “Rusty” Rees—a local identity equal parts larrikin and visionary—it began in a muddy car park with a few tarpaulins and a dream. Today, it’s a labyrinth of over 180 stalls, still slightly ramshackle, gloriously unpretentious, and beloved for exactly that reason. Open every Friday to Sunday, Rusty’s isn’t just a shopping experience—it’s a full-contact sport. Navigate
its narrow aisles and you’ll pass pyramids of dragonfruit stacked like alien eggs, ginger the size of toddlers’ fists, jars of turmeric honey, and bunches of Thai basil fragrant enough to knock out a grown man. And then there’s the produce you’ve never heard of, let alone pronounced— jaboticaba, achacha, and the elusive rollinia, a tropical fruit that tastes like lemon cheesecake and looks like it’s been drawn by Dr. Seuss.
At its core, Rusty’s is a showcase for Far North Queensland’s agricultural might. With some of the shortest food miles in the country, the market boasts produce from the Tablelands, the Daintree, the Cassowary Coast and beyond. You’re not just buying fruit; you’re buying from the person who picked it. This intimacy—this immediacy—is the market’s magic.
But Rusty’s isn’t only about fruit and veg. It’s a multicultural bazaar where you can pick up fresh bánh mì from Vietnamese bakers, sip Samoan kava, munch on Sri Lankan hoppers, or sip one of Amanda Hargrave’s
gut-loving Scoo Brew Kombuchas—handcrafted just up the road and now sold across the country. Artisans abound too. You’ll find handmade soaps infused with rainforest botanicals, local macadamia spreads, indigenous bush foods, and even micro-lot Arabica from Mareeba’s finest plantations. In a time when “local” is the loudest word in the lexicon of food trends, Rusty’s has been walking the talk for decades.
It’s a place where stallholders have nicknames and regulars know exactly what time the strawberries get discounted. It’s where you’ll bump into half the city on a good morning, and nobody minds if you’re barefoot or still slightly hungover. This is Rusty’s—gritty, glorious, and unmistakably Cairns.
So bring a bag, bring cash, and bring your appetite. But most importantly, bring your curiosity. Because like all great markets, Rusty’s isn’t just about what you buy—it’s about what you discover.
Rusty’s Markets
History, Pastry and Artistry:
The Pies of Far North Queensland
In Far North Queensland, the humble meat pie is less of a snack and more of a cultural artefact—a doughencased hymn to the Australian spirit. And while some corners of the nation have surrendered to the scourge of turmeric lattes and deconstructed Bolognese, FNQ continues to sing its praise through pastry. In two of the region’s most beloved bakeries, that song crescendos to full throat: Bushman’s and Manning’s—both tucked unassumingly into the pie-laden precincts of Bungalow, Cairns.
To call these establishments ‘bakeries’ feels a bit like calling the Sydney Opera House a shed with nice acoustics. What we have here are shrines. Shrines to beef and gravy. To pastry engineering. To the alchemy of flour, fat, and folklore. They’re the sorts of places where the pies are so hot, hearty and honest, they make your average city pie look like a gluten-dodging imposter wearing puff pastry like a disguise.
Bushman’s began as a humble pie van in 1994, parked along the Captain Cook Highway with nothing but chutzpah and a portable oven. Today, it commands a loyal following from its brick-and-mortar HQ on Scott Street in Bungalow, churning out over two dozen varieties daily, including the Tradie—a work of handheld architecture layered with steak, tomato, mushroom, bacon and egg. It is less a pie and more a lifestyle.
Just a few pastry-crumbed steps away, Manning’s Pies keeps watch over Newell Street like a village elder with impeccable crust. Though often associated with its Gordonvale origins, the bakery now shares FNQ’s pie capital postcode with Bushman’s, creating a sort of
Before paddock-to-plate was a hashtag, Manning’s was doing it by necessity—sourcing local produce from nearby farms not because it was trendy, but because it made sense. They have resisted the temptation to change this behaviour. Beef is sourced from a family farm on the Tablelands and other ingredients come from a list of local suppliers many years in the making. Their recipes, some handwritten and flour-streaked, have survived floods, heatwaves, and trends that thankfully never made it this far north. Manning’s pies are the edible record of a region: hearty, practical, filled with flavour and fortified with legacy. Every bite is a history lesson disguised as lunch.
Both bakeries regularly attract customers from all walks of life—white collars and blue singlets alike— queueing out the door and onto the street, trading banter and sunburns for the promise of flaky salvation. And for those on the road, there’s always the joy of a hot pie passed through a car window like a benediction— provisioning the journey ahead, or simply making lunch in a ute feel like a reward for surviving another Monday. These bakeries are not competing; they are conspiring. Conspiring to remind us that good food doesn’t need a marketing campaign. It just needs time, care, and a deep respect for the humble ingredients. Manning’s does this with its melt-in-your-mouth shortcrust and impossibly tender fillings. Bushman’s responds with innovation that somehow still feels like comfort food: vegan butter chicken? Sure. But it still comes wrapped in the FNQ ethos—generous, satisfying, and unpretentious.
What ties them together is not just geography or genre, but philosophy. These pies are not just baked; they are built—brick by meaty brick, under the eyes of people who still believe in waking up at 3am because pastry doesn’t wait. They feed builders and bankers, tourists and tradies. And they do so with the kind of quiet consistency that deserves a medal but would probably prefer a nod and a “bloody good, mate.”
In a world increasingly obsessed with novelty, the pies of Far North Queensland offer a rare thing: honest food with soul. They are, in the words of one local, “breakfast, lunch, and therapy all in one.” So whether you’re tearing into a Bushman’s Outback special on the bonnet of your Hilux, or unwrapping a Manning’s steak mince pie with reverence usually reserved for religious relics, know this: you’re partaking in something rare. Something real.
History, pastry, artistry—and a fair whack of beef.
Because in FNQ, the pie isn’t just lunch. It’s a legacy.
A guide to some of the oldest pubs still serving in the Far North
COOKTOWN HOTEL – COOKTOWN (1874)
The Cooktown Hotel, affectionately known as The Top Pub or ‘The Toppie,’ is a beloved landmark in Cooktown. Built in 1874, this historic pub has survived numerous cyclones and remains a favourite for both locals and travellers. Known for its welcoming atmosphere and icy cold beers always on tap, it epitomises the true Queensland pub experience with its strong sense of mateship. In the 1920s, it gained a reputation as the ‘racing man’s pub’ due to the local turf club holding their monthly meetings there. Originally called the Commercial Hotel, it was renamed the Cooktown Hotel in 1982, continuing its legacy as a central hub for community gatherings and socialising. A great venue for meals, beers, and live music, one of their events that brings people from all over is the Hog Hunt. Held every October, it has become a huge success at curbing feral pig numbers in the area ... and a muchanticipated ‘Toppie’ event.
98 Charlotte St, Cooktown QLD 4895 | (07) 4069 5308
Cairns was founded in 1875, Port Douglas in 1877, Atherton in 1885, and Cooktown—just pipping the others—in 1873. With more than 150 years of colonial settlement behind us, one big question still lingers in the tropical air: where do you get a decent beer? Far North Queensland, blessedly unburdened by too much modernisation in places, is home to some of Australia’s most characterful country pubs. By our count, more than 50 fall into the category of ‘heritage’—meaning they’ve been pouring pints since before the middle of the last century.
Join us as we embark on another round through FNQ’s most beloved boozers. Listed in order of age this time, just to keep things honest—and fresh for 2025. All remain in operation at time of print.
THE LION’S DEN HOTEL – ROSSVILLE (1875)
A trip to Cape York isn’t complete without stopping into the Lion’s Den Hotel in Rossville. The quirky, iconic pub is one of Queensland’s oldest, continuously operating hotels still in the original building, remaining almost unchanged from her beginnings in 1888 when she serviced the tin and gold mining trade. These days she is the pitstop for travellers heading north, with campgrounds and many tour groups also taking advantage of their ‘glamping’ accommodation options, and joining with the locals for live music events held throughout the year. The name came about from a tin mine called the Lion’s Den close by, when a stowaway named Daniel was seen standing at the mine’s entrance, the owner commented ‘It’s Daniel in the Lion’s Den’ as a joke and it stuck as the name for both the mine and the hotel. Over the years the owners have continued to add to the Lion’s Den theme with their quirky décor to enjoy along with a great pub meal and a beer.
A popular tourist destination on the ‘Wheelbarrow Way’ is Chillagoe, for visiting remains of the smelter, the Mungana Caves, and having a cold beer at the pub with a marble bar where visitors have written all over the walls. The Post Office Hotel was built by business tycoon Edward Torpy in 1900. He was involved in mining, racehorses, and hotels; in fact, his horse Piastre won the Melbourne Cup in 1912. He moved his Mt Garnet Hotel to Chillagoe in 1910, replacing the original building. In May 1923, a fire next door burnt her (and three other buildings) to the ground, but Torpy had a new hotel built and reopened by November, with the now-famous bar made from Chillagoe marble. Today, the Post Office Hotel has signatures on the walls from locals and travellers from all over the world, as well as the old station signs hanging from the ceilings. A covered playground and beer garden make her the perfect spot for a cold beer and hearty pub feed. 15–17 Queen St, Chillagoe QLD 4871 | (07) 4094 7119
THE GARRADUNGA HOTEL
– GARRADUNGA (1888)
Just a ten-minute drive north of Innisfail, nestled amidst sprawling cane farms, you’ll discover The Garradunga Hotel. Originally known as the Cane Cutters Hotel when it was built in 1888, this historic pub has since become famous for its resident ghost, Athol. Many locals have encountered Athol, and curious tourists flock to the pub, hoping for a spectral sighting. Affectionately dubbed ‘The Garra,’ the hotel has weathered its fair share of disasters. It burned down and was rebuilt in 1935, and Cyclone Larry ripped off its roof in 2006. Fortunately, the 1935 rebuild included a cementreinforced ceiling and a beer garden, allowing the beer to keep flowing even during repairs. A charming spot for travellers, The Garradunga Hotel offers unpowered campgrounds and rooms within the pub itself. Open seven days a week, it serves up classic pub dinners from Thursday to Sunday and lunch on weekends. Sundays are a particular highlight, with live music in the beer garden all day, making it the perfect day to soak in the local atmosphere.
Yungaburra Hotel is an exquisite federation building showcasing the architecture of the early 1900s, renowned in FNQ for her beauty and preservation of times gone by. When the Williams family heard the railway was coming to town in 1910, they bought the land opposite the station house site, pulled down their ‘shanty pub’ and built Lake Eacham Hotel. The name changed when the township name changed to Yungaburra. Stepping into the ballroom you can envision people dancing the night away, with the staircase, stained glass windows, and chandeliers. Queensland’s youngest female publican at 16, Maud Koeh, loved that room, and locals have seen her ghost on the stairs or witnessed flickering lights coming down them. Maud is known to roam both the hotel and the township itself. The hotel has remained within the Williams family, proudly preserving their family’s, and the township’s, history within the walls of the grand old girl. You can stop in any time for hearty pub meals, live music events, even play bingo in the ballroom! Hotel rooms are available, too, if you hope to catch a glimpse of Maud!
After Cyclone Larry flattened most of it in 2006, the Peeramon Hotel rose again, retaining the original front bar and its beloved antique phone collection. Set on a rise near Malanda, it’s a timber homage to old Queensland hospitality: dogs nap under tables, kids roam barefoot, and the beers are cold enough to make you weep. Locals call it their “favourite pub in FNQ”—and not just for the lamb shanks.
1 Main St, Peeramon QLD 4885 | (07) 4096 5873
RED BERET HOTEL – REDLYNCH (1926)
The Red Beret, a beloved landmark in Redlynch, has a storied history and a character as vibrant as its name. Built in 1926, this iconic pub was originally known as The Redlynch Hotel. It was the town’s second hotel, constructed opposite the site of the old Terminus Hotel, which had tragically burned down in the early 1920s. Most locals believe the railway town of Redlynch was named in honour of the Irish construction foreman, ‘Red’ Lynch, a well-loved figure among his peers. The origins of the pub’s current name, the Red Beret or ‘The Hat,’ remain a bit of a mystery, adding to its charm and allure. Today, stepping into the public bar of the Red Beret is like stepping into a living museum of the town’s history. The walls are adorned with caricatures of locals past and present, as well as sporting legends, set amidst historical photographs of the township. Mateship is alive and well at ‘The Hat,’ where you might even spot the
real-life counterpart of one of the caricatures enjoying a cold beer beneath their illustrated likeness. Despite recent renovations, the Red Beret has retained its classic Queenslander charm, featuring open verandas and decks perfect for relaxing with friends. Whether you’re sharing a beer in the pub or enjoying a family-friendly meal, the Red Beret offers a welcoming atmosphere that harks back to the camaraderie of Red’s day.
Queensland’s highest town boasts one of its most storied pubs. Opened in 1912, the Club Hotel was commissioned by T.B. O’Meara for early publican William Gordon, who ran the joint with breaks until 1937. Over the years, it’s seen licensees change, the timber industry rise and recede, and Ravenshoe evolve from a rough-sawn outpost into an Atherton Tablelands gateway.
During Doug Nasser’s tenure in the 1950s, it was briefly renamed the Millstream Hotel—an ode to the river that snakes nearby—before reclaiming its original identity. Through floods, fires, and the slow march of tourism, it’s remained a rock: a place for local yarns, cold beer, and hearty feeds.
Today, the Club is one of the few truly pokies-free pubs in FNQ. Its bistro still slings schnitzels and steaks like it’s 1975 (in the best
possible way), and the beer garden is a popular rendezvous for Savannah Way road-trippers and locals alike. Accommodation includes motel rooms and off-site cabins—simple, comfortable, and perfectly positioned for a coolclimate Tablelands escape.
45 Grigg St, Ravenshoe QLD 4888 | (07) 4097 6109
THE GRAND HOTEL – CAIRNS (1936)
Whilst this bar isn’t as old as the others featured, ‘The Croc Bar’ is as iconic as Crocodile Dundee for FNQ pubs. Since opening the doors in 1936 on the corner of McLeod and Shield streets, their crocodile-themed décor and artefacts have been a drawcard for tourists, and the locals have always loved a cold one right in the heart of the city. The outstanding feature of ‘the Croc’ is the bar itself, a hand-carved wooden crocodile complete with an open jaw and teeth so you can have your photo taken with your head in the jaws of a crocodile. The walls and ceilings are covered with crocodile skulls, skins, and, of course, teeth, along with images of crocodiles being caught, along with Croc Dundee himself. Slotted between these are a plethora of historical photos and artefacts from Cairns in the early 1920s, with floods, cyclones, and more all recorded on the walls. Offering pub classic meals in the renovated bistro, you can take their famous 2kg Parmy Challenge, if you’re keen!
34 McLeod St, Cairns QLD 4870 | (07) 4051 1007
A NOTE ON FRAGILITY
Some of FNQ’s oldest pubs now operate on borrowed time—monthto-month leases, rising insurance premiums, and uncertain futures. They may not qualify for national heritage funding, yet they’re as culturally significant as any sandstone pile in Sydney. We lose them not just brick by brick, but story by story. So go now. Sit on a cracked stool. Order the schnitzel. Listen. Because if these walls fall silent, so too does a chapter of FNQ that will not be rebuilt. Raise a glass so that we can all enjoy a cold and frothy future whilst celebrating a cold and storied past.
Beers, Bars, Cocktails
– and the Long Tales They Tell
The ritual of the drink—be it beer, wine or something botanical and stirred—is one of humanity’s oldest dances. And nowhere does that dance play out with more colour, contradiction, or character than in Far North Queensland.
Hospitality in this part of the world doesn’t always come with fanfare. Sometimes it arrives as the slap of a cold glass on a scarred bar top, the nod of a stranger who’s happy to slide over, or the dry chuckle of someone who’s heard your punchline before but will let you have it anyway.
This region is dotted with watering holes that defy easy classification. Some are barely bars at all—little more than sheds with eskies and a sense of occasion. Others offer velvet booths, polished ice cubes, and cocktails with more garnish than glass. What unites them is their sense of place. Whether under fluorescent lights or festooned bulbs, FNQ drinks with character.
In the deeper folds of the countryside, the bar is still a social anchor. These are spaces that haven’t bowed to modernity. Their fridges hum like a didgeridoo in E-flat, and their patrons come in boots, bare feet or whatever got them through the paddock. Here, you’re not judged by your order, only your manners. A place where you can nurse a beer for hours and leave with two new mates, a fishing tip, and possibly a mild sunburn. Move toward the coast, and the pace shifts. The drinks are colder, the lighting dimmer, and the
bartenders are just as likely to spritz your drink with dehydrated lime dust as they are to ask how your day was. The cocktail has landed in the tropics—and it’s learned to sweat politely. Small bars are on the rise, bringing with them a sense of curated chaos. Tropical flavours meet global technique, and menus are written like poetry slams: punchy, playful, and unafraid of the obscure.
Then there are the breweries and distilleries— part science, part theatre. From hinterland sheds to urban tank rooms, they’ve added a new flavour to the landscape. Tasting paddles and gin flights sit where once only beer coasters dared to tread. The emphasis here is on local ingredients, low food miles, and a fierce pride in provenance. It’s not just about what’s in the glass—it’s about where it came from, and who made it, and why they cared enough to make it well.
But to focus too hard on the drinks would be missing the point. Because the real magic isn’t in the glass—it’s in the space between glasses. It’s in the chat, the clink, the laugh. It’s the way a table of strangers turns into a circle of stories. In Far North Queensland, drinking is not about escaping the world—it’s about sinking into it more deeply. It’s about swapping news of the cyclone with tales of the croc in the causeway, or hearing how someone’s uncle once distilled gin in a rainforest shack using a still made from a LandCruiser exhaust pipe.
There is, to borrow a phrase, a deep and egalitarian joy in the bars of the north. You might find yourself sipping a botanical spritz one night, and a two-dollar tinny the next—neither experience lesser, both perfectly suited to their moment. It’s not about refinement or rusticity. It’s about the rhythm of the place, the hum of conversation, and the beautiful unpredictability of who you might meet and what they might pour.
In a region shaped by extremes—of climate, of distance, of story—it makes sense that the drinking culture is just as varied. Here, you can measure the distance between rainforest and reef not just in kilometres, but in cocktail lists. And yet, through all its variation, FNQ remains united by a single truth: when the day is done and the air is heavy and the light goes gold, there is no better place to be than somewhere with a breeze, a drink, and a story about to begin.
So whether you’re chasing complexity in a coupe glass or cold simplicity in a pot, follow the sound of laughter, the clink of glass, the smell of citrus and hops and rum on the air. That’s where you’ll find it.
The cocktail may be short. But the tale? That’s still being poured.
The Conservatory Bar:
Cairns’ Grandest Little Room
By David Leith
In a city better known for its proximity to rainforest and reef than its reverence for ritual, The Conservatory Bar stands as a glorious anomaly—a time capsule disguised as a wine bar. Tucked into Lake Street with almost theatrical discretion, it whispers of another age. Not the manicured grandeur of Gatsby’s America or the loose-lipped flair of a Parisian café, but something altogether more British, more stoic: a distillation of post-war lounge culture, London club discretion, and country house formality. The 1950s, with its butlers, brass rails, and stiff upper lips, lives on here—not as parody, but as practice.
Owner Ross Stevens, equal parts raconteur and sommelier, has recreated what can only be described as the most cultivated front room in Cairns. Chesterfield sofas, dark timber, a rotary telephone that still works, and a towering tavern clock set the tone. No kitsch, no compromise—just a curated experience that feels lived-in, not designed.
“This is everyone’s grandfather’s front room,” Ross quips, but it’s more than that. It’s an homage to an era when hospitality was theatre, service was ritual, and conversation was as important as the drink in your hand. And it works—not in spite of being in tropical Far North Queensland, but perhaps precisely because of it. In a region defined by barefoot casualness and alfresco everything, The Conservatory Bar is an air-conditioned exception to the rule.
Behind the bar, the wine list is encyclopaedic—close to 1,000 bottles strong, and growing. It has earned a coveted two-glass rating from the Australian Wine List of the Year Awards three years in a row, and Ross constantly seeks to improve and refine it. But what’s remarkable is not just the list’s depth, but its intent. There’s no snobbery here. Ross delights in guiding uncertain guests towards unexpected finds. A South African Chenin Blanc? A Catalan red you’ve never heard of? Perfect. “Introducing people to something new,” Ross says, “is not only good business—it’s good hospitality.”
The cellar itself now doubles as a tasting room—accessed, delightfully, through a sliding bookcase. Inside, an antique table seats a dozen guests for regular wine tastings that verge on the ceremonial. These events, held fortnightly or as the mood and moon dictate, are more than just pourand-talk affairs. They are immersive, thematic explorations: “France vs. Australia”, “Obscure Whites You’ll Love”, “Natural Wines Without the Nonsense” —a tight, focused menu designed not to steal the spotlight, but to shine it. Think: duck liver parfait, figs soaked in Pedro Ximénez, or the now-infamous dark chocolate tart made with a Shiraz reduction that tastes like dessert and digestif in one.
Service, too, is singular. Staff use no ordering pads, no handheld devices. Orders are memorised. Glasses are topped silently. Hospitality here is invisible but omnipresent, like good lighting or a string quartet just out of sight. It’s all part of the illusion—or more accurately, the immersion. The idea is to make you feel not like a
customer, but like a guest in a very elegant home that just happens to have 1,000 bottles of exceptional wine.
And yet for all its polish, The Conservatory Bar doesn’t take itself too seriously. Ross hosts occasional bring-your-own-vinyl nights, where guests can spin records and shape the bar’s soundtrack. Just don’t expect thrash metal— Miles Davis or Nina Simone are more in keeping with the mood. There’s also a revolving calendar of low-key events: meet-the-maker evenings with boutique winemakers, cellar door exclusives, and impromptu ‘wine fights’ where regions or varietals are pitched against each other in friendly competition.
What makes The Conservatory Bar truly exceptional, though, is how it balances the theatrical with the sincere. This isn’t a themed bar. It’s not cosplay. It’s a genuine attempt to resurrect—and perhaps preserve—a lost form of hospitality: personal, precise, quietly extravagant.
Ross himself is central to this. Raised in the Devon town of Honiton, steeped in the wine lore of his grandfather, and sharpened in the crucible of luxury hospitality, he brings a distinctive tone to the Cairns bar scene. One part Jeeves, one part Jagger, he floats from table to table with a dry wit and a sharper palate, offering pairing suggestions or philosophical musings on Nebbiolo tannins.
But ask him what really matters and he’ll tell you it’s the space—the feel, the flow, the chance to create genuine, unhurried interaction. “We’re not chasing numbers,” he says. “We’re chasing connection. You could go to a hundred bars in Queensland and never have a proper conversation. We wanted to change that.”
He has. Whether you’re a solo drinker perched with a book, a couple celebrating an anniversary in the tasting room, or a local who wandered in and never left, The Conservatory Bar offers more than wine. It offers intimacy. Ceremony. A whisper of another world.
In a time when most bars blare, The Conservatory Bar murmurs. And sometimes, that’s exactly what you need.
The Conservatory Bar 12-14 Lake Street, Cairns
Peter George Photography
Three Wolves:
Cairns’ Speakeasy
Evolves— New Address, Same Spirit
In 2016, a discreet laneway off Abbott Street quietly became the launchpad for Cairns’ small bar movement. Inside, the warm glow of timber, a serious whisky selection, and a concealed entrance set the tone for something different—something lasting. Three Wolves wasn’t just a bar. It was a shift in perspective.
Nine years on, it has moved—but it hasn’t moved on.
Now housed at 13A Spence Street, the new Three Wolves is a mature evolution of the original. This is no radical reinvention; it’s the next logical chapter.
The layout is more intuitive, the acoustics thoughtfully engineered. Conversations no longer bounce off walls— they linger, comfortably, in the air. Everything, from lighting to seating, feels like it’s been considered—not just designed.
“We built the bar we wish we’d had the resources and experience to open the first time,” says co-founder Darren Barber. Together with Sam Kennis, Grant Buckham, Andrew Pare and Ben Pape, Barber has watched the group grow from a single venue to a cornerstone of the city’s hospitality identity. But Three Wolves remains the beating heart.
You sense it as soon as you step inside. The novel bookcase entrance offers a secretive charm, but the atmosphere inside has ripened—from edgy to established, from intriguing to inviting. The wall of whiskies that once felt like a wink now commands quiet admiration. It’s not about showing off—it’s about showing up with intent.
The drinks menu mirrors that maturity. Classics like the Smoke on the Water—with its smoked bourbon base and kiss of cinnamon—still hold court. But they share space with seasonal newcomers and thoughtfully revived cocktails from the bar’s early days. There’s a sense of lineage here: each drink nods to where the bar’s been, and where it’s headed.
The essence of Three Wolves has always been its people—the way the team anticipates needs without fuss, welcomes with sincerity, and builds familiarity pint by pint, pour by pour. It’s in the way you’re treated.
From day one, Three Wolves embraced the idea that service is as important as spirits. That hasn’t changed. Regulars are welcomed like old friends. Newcomers are guided without condescension. There’s
no velvet rope, no VIP booth—just genuine hospitality and a team that knows how to read a room.
Inside the new bar, refinements abound. Whisky cabinets add depth without distraction. The food offering, built around shareable tapas, is curated to enhance—not compete with—the drinks. The room accommodates 100 guests, but the ambience remains intimate, never overwhelmed.
And while the move placed Three Wolves on a more visible street, it hasn’t dulled the sense of discovery. There’s still something quietly thrilling about stepping through that shelf into another world.
Three Wolves never set out to be trendy. It set out to be good—and to keep getting better. It opened when craft cocktails were rare in Cairns, when whisky menus were an anomaly, when laneway bars were considered eccentric. It endured a global pandemic, shifting consumer expectations, and a city in flux. And now, in this sharper, more intentional version of itself, it reminds us that thoughtful hospitality never goes out of style.
For loyal locals, it’s a weekly ritual. For visitors, it’s the kind of place you want to text your friends about. For everyone, it’s proof that even in the tropics, a bar can deliver depth, charm, and precision—all under one roof.
Three Wolves hasn’t changed. It’s just grown into its ambition.
Three Wolves 13A Spence St, Cairns (Enter via Bank Lane)
Cabana Bar:
Where Palm Cove Unwinds in Style
There’s something almost cinematic about Palm Cove at golden hour. The breeze off the Coral Sea. The silhouette of leaning palms. The promise of salt in the air and something icy in your glass. Into this postcard moment steps Cabana Bar, a sultry offering by The Hospo Group, delivering more than just drinks—it brings a full-bodied experience of tropical leisure.
While many venues might try to ‘fit in’ with the scenery, Cabana Bar embraces it, enhances it, and sets it to music. The space is awash in soft pinks and pale woods, a palette that whispers barefoot glamour and beckons the Instagram crowd without sacrificing soul. It’s equal parts Tulum cool and Palm Cove authentic.
The menu leads with well-executed snackables— think guac, salsa and corn chips—but the real story is liquid. Cabana Bar’s cocktail menu is a symphony of agave, with over 80 tequilas and mezcals behind the bar. It’s a haven for spirit aficionados and curious sippers alike. The tequila flights are particularly revelatory—think of them as a crash course in agave artistry, served with coastal charm and a wedge of lime.
Not in a tequila mood? The local spirits list is impressive too, with regional gins, rums and whiskies giving a firm nod to FNQ’s distilling renaissance. And if you’re feeling inspired, their cocktail masterclasses turn
spectators into mixologists, with expert-led sessions that are part performance, part education, and all good fun.
Cabana Bar also plays well with others. As one of six stylish venues in The Hospo Group’s Cairns collective, it’s tied into a regional loyalty program that offers perks and rewards to repeat customers. Handy if your holiday habits include frequent margaritas.
But this isn’t just a bar; it’s a curated vibe. From the music to the service, everything hums with laid-back luxury. It’s where holidaymakers go to toast the day, locals gather to feel like they’re on holiday, and everyone gets to pretend—just for a little while—that this is normal life.
So if you find yourself in Palm Cove and thirsty for something more than a drink—thirsty for a mood, a memory, a touch of tropical magic—follow the music and the smell of lime zest. Cabana Bar is waiting.
Cabana Bar
Shop 27 111-117 Williams
Esplanade Palm Cove 4000 7671
The Fox Small Bar: Urban Charm,
Tucked quietly beneath the eaves of Stratford’s leafy canopy, The Fox Small Bar doesn’t shout for attention. It doesn’t need to. For those who know, this is the northside’s best-kept secret—a velvety little enclave where sophistication wears sneakers and the gin martini is always cold.
There’s a whisper of Brooklyn speakeasy here— dimly lit shelves glow with a curated collection of top-shelf spirits, and the bartenders, sharp in both attire and knowledge, operate more like conductors than mixologists. It’s as much theatre as it is service. The Fox isn’t trying to be the biggest, only the best. And with only 20 seats, it’s got exclusivity built into its DNA.
Step inside and the space reveals its true superpower: intimacy. No thudding basslines, no jostling for elbow room. Just warm lighting, luxe textures, and the low hum of conversation. It’s a place where time dilates slightly—where one cocktail becomes two, a grazing platter becomes dinner, and the night quietly gets away from you in the best possible way.
Speaking of grazing, The Fox has rewritten the rulebook on bar food. Forget fridge-cold cheese cubes and limp crackers. Here, the bespoke charcuterie
Suburban Soul
board is an art form. Start with the velvety camembert or that whisper-thin jamon prosciutto. Maybe add truffle pecorino for depth, and spicy salami for bite. The combinations are yours to play with, or better yet, let the team tailor a board to match your drink. Their knowledge of pairings—be it a Clare Valley riesling or a Wolf Lane negroni—is as intuitive as it is impressive.
Drinks are local where it counts and exceptional everywhere else. You’ll find small-batch Australian spirits, clever cocktails featuring native botanicals, and a wine list that quietly champions regional producers without slipping into pretension. It’s all part of The Hospo Group’s ethos—quality over quantity, polish without pomposity.
Andrew Pare, the quietly visionary figure behind the brand, reflects on The Fox as more than just a bar. “It really changed the game out here,” he says. “We wanted something local but elevated—something that gave people a reason to stay in the suburbs.” And stay they do. Especially Sundays, when the live music kicks off and the whole place hums with the kind of buzz you can’t manufacture.
What sets The Fox apart isn’t just the cocktails, or the cheese, or even the decor. It’s the hospitality. It’s the bartender who remembers your name and your drink. It’s the way newcomers are welcomed like old friends. It’s the unmistakable sense that you’ve stumbled upon something rare, something quietly brilliant.
So whether you’re a Stratford local or just detouring off the beaten path, find your way to The Fox Small Bar. Slide onto a barstool, raise a glass, and discover a bar that proves small can still be spectacular.
The Hound:
Edge Hill’s
After-Hours Heartbeat
Tucked into the treelined fringe of Collins Avenue, The Hound brings The Hospo Group’s signature attention to detail into the heart of suburban Edge Hill— with a low-lit confidence that leans more cultivated than cosy.
With room for around 100, it’s neither crowded nor cavernous. There’s a warm, mid-century vibe— walnut textures, soft lighting, considered design—but no sense of trying to be anywhere but here. It’s very much Edge Hill, just dialled up a notch.
The bar takes centre stage with a drinks menu as substantial and considered as its inner-city counterpart, Three Wolves. This isn’t a suburban side project—it’s the real deal. The cocktail list is bold and seasonal, with standouts from smoky mezcal creations to reimagined spritzes. The back bar is loaded with top-shelf whisky, agave, and local spirits, curated with care and poured with precision.
For those chasing a quieter session, the wine list favours Australian makers, while beers span easydrinking staples and a few smaller-batch curiosities. There’s breadth, but also restraint—the hallmark of a good bar that knows its clientele.
The food, though intentionally understated, does its job beautifully. Small plates—sharp cheeses, briny olives, charcuterie—are designed to flatter the drink in your hand, not fight for the spotlight. It’s a drinking bar with food, not the other way around.
What gives The Hound its own identity is the atmosphere. It shifts, subtly, across the week. On Fridays, the tempo lifts—think late-night energy, elevated cocktails, and a buzzy local crowd settling in for the weekend. On comedy nights, the space fills with laughter for Laughing Heart, a monthly showcase of local and touring acts. Other nights are more relaxed, with familiar faces unwinding over cocktails and low conversation.
Pricing is fair, the staff are sharp but relaxed, and there’s a strong sense of community baked into the bar’s rhythm. When the bartenders clock off, they’re often still there—drinking what they poured, chatting with regulars, blurring the line between host and guest.
The Hound may be the newest in The Hospo Group’s collection, but it stands confidently on its own. It’s not a theme, or a fleeting pop-up. It’s a bar. A good one. In a suburb that’s quietly thrilled to have it.
Hound 22 Collins Ave, Edge Hill
The
Flamingos Tiki Bar: Cairns’
Tropi-kitsch Hideaway
Opened in 2018 on Cairns Esplanade, Flamingos Tiki Bar is as bold and playful as a hula shirt at a wedding. Descend a few steps into its semisubterranean lair and you’re met with bamboo finishes, tiki totems, and the scent of rum and citrus.
Inspired by the mid-century Polynesian bars of Hawaii and California, Flamingos is unapologetically maximalist. Neon, kitsch, and carefully controlled chaos define the décor. But the drinks are all precision. With over 250 rums behind the bar, the list is a study in tropical decadence. Classics like the Zombie and the Mai Tai are joined by inventive house signatures served in custom mugs, with fire and flourish never far away. Flamingos was the brainchild of Andrew Pare, one of The Hospo Group’s founding partners, whose long-standing love for tiki culture found a natural home in Cairns’ tropical climate. “How could a city like this not have a proper tiki bar?” he mused. So, the group set about creating one—packed with character, rhythm, and a sharp sense of fun. The result is a venue that celebrates the excesses of tiki culture while delivering a world-class bar experience.
It’s not just a visual feast; it’s a true local haunt. Flamingos is adored by visitors and Cairns locals alike, especially those in the know. Bartenders pour with flair and genuine warmth. The vibe is cinematic—music bumps, candles flicker, and time slides sideways. You could just as easily stumble into a high-energy Saturday night as a chill midweek chat with the crew behind the bar.
Whether you’re after an over-the-top cocktail in a ceramic shark or a surprisingly elegant Daiquiri, Flamingos serves both with style. It’s not a gimmick—it’s a love letter to island escapism, done with humour, craft, and heart.
Flamingos Tiki Bar
43 The Esplanade Cairns
An FNQ Booze Odyssey RAISING THE BAR (AGAIN)
Alright, alright, we get it. Another year, another “raising the bar” pun for Far North Queensland’s booze scene. Call us unoriginal, but when our local brewers, distillers, and fruit winemakers keep vaulting over every expectation like they’re competing in a tropical Olympics, what else are we supposed to say? This year, they haven’t just raised the bar; they’ve launched it into the stratosphere with a glorious glug of yeast magic and something wonderfully overproofed.
Imagine sipping a gin that tastes like a rainforest after a sudden downpour, or a rum that hums with the warmth of a sugarcane field baking under the tropical sun. Up here, nestled amid emerald escarpments and endless sugarcane plains, our booze isn’t just a drink; it’s a liquid postcard. Each drop tells a story: of the landscape, the exotic fruits, the relentless heat, and the sudden, sweet relief of a wet season storm. It’s the very essence of life above the 17th parallel, bottled.
Just a few short years back, mention ‘FNQ distillery’ and you might’ve pictured a dusty pirate-bottle rum or a lone fruit wine stall at a Sunday market. Fast forward to today: we’ve got gins that duke it out with the best from the Yarra Valley, beers that sing with the perfect balance of sunshine and subtlety, and wines crafted from mangoes and jaboticaba that don’t just defy category – they smash expectations to smithereens.
The Secret Sauce: Geography, Genius, and Gumption
Why this explosion of liquid gold? It’s not just in the water (though ours is pretty damn pure, to be fair). It’s the perfect storm of three key forces: geography, ingenuity, and attitude.
Geographically, FNQ is ridiculously blessed. Volcanic soils, abundant rainfall, hot days, cool highland nights – it’s a botanical wonderland, a sugarcane paradise, and a fruit basket waiting to be fermented. From the coast to the Tablelands, makers find everything they dream of, often growing wild and within arm’s reach of the still.
Ingenuity? That comes in barrels. We’re talking brewers infusing beers with kaffir lime and finger lime zest, distillers crafting agave spirits from locally grown spiky plants. It’s not gimmicky; it’s grounded in serious technique, often led by former chefs, chemists, and unrelenting perfectionists who just happen to live in paradise.
Then there’s the attitude – and oh, what an attitude it is. Think less ‘fussy foodie influencer’ and more ‘fiercely independent pioneer who probably wrestles crocodiles on weekends.’ It’s a stubbornness bred from our climate and our glorious distance from the southern ‘epicentres of taste.’ Our makers aren’t
checking Instagram for the next big thing; they’re too busy coaxing perfection out of local ingredients, often from scratch, and usually in a shed that’s seen more cyclones than most city folks have seen sunny days. Trends? Nah. Quality? Absolutely, with a capital ‘Q’ and a healthy dose of sweat.
Awards and Authenticity
The result? A drinks culture that is fiercely local, deeply original, and increasingly respected far beyond our borders. FNQ rums now snag gold in London. Our gins pop up on back bars in Melbourne’s most selfimportant cocktail dens. Our fruit wines are being taken seriously by judges once allergic to anything not grapebased. This isn’t just a movement. It’s a moment.
And yet, for all the shiny awards, there remains a pleasing roughness to the edges. Visit any cellar door or taproom and you’ll likely be met by the very person who made what you’re drinking—sleeves rolled, hands calloused, stories ready. The pride is palpable, but never pretentious.
Even through economic headwinds and the wild whims of the weather, FNQ’s beverage makers have held their nerve and their vision. Many have faced crop failures, equipment breakdowns, or the slow grind of regional logistics. But they kept brewing, distilling, fermenting. Not out of blind optimism, but because the product is too good and the passion too deep to let go. What we’re seeing now is the sweet reward for their resolve.
This year’s Booze section isn’t just a showcase of what’s being poured. It’s a snapshot of FNQ’s evolving identity—one that fizzes with creativity, resilience, and a stubborn refusal to be pigeonholed. Whether it’s a gin that tastes like a rainforest morning or a sour beer brewed for a Cairns summer afternoon, each drink
reflects something vital about this place and its people.
So yeah, we’re still “raising the bar.” And no, we’re officially done apologizing for the pun. Because when the sips are this sensational, and the stories behind them are even better, a little linguistic laziness is the least of our worries.
So lean in, take a sip, and taste the tropics. Your FNQ booze odyssey begins now. Cheers to that.
From Humble Beginnings to World Domination:
Mt Uncle Distillery Redefines FNQ Spirits
In the lush, volcanic red soils of Walkamin, nestled in the heart of the Atherton Tablelands, Mt Uncle Distillery stands as the undisputed benchmark for Far North Queensland distilling excellence. If FNQ’s food and drink scene has a sovereign state, then this is its crown jewel—fortified with barrels of rum, gin, whisky, and agave, aged by sundrenched days and cool, highland nights.
At the helm is Mark Watkins: distiller, innovator, and Australia’s unofficial alchemist of cane, grain, and agave. Don’t be misled by the title “founder.” Watkins is less a founder than an architect—a master technician and creative force whose restless curiosity and scientific rigour have rewritten the rules of Australian spirits. This isn’t someone who stumbled into gin and rum through whimsy. With degrees in environmental science and wine science, and more medals than a vintage Bordeaux, Watkins approaches distilling the way others might approach astrophysics: with method, precision, and the occasional stroke of brilliance.
Mt Uncle isn’t just the oldest craft distillery in FNQ. It’s the most awarded. Full stop. Its Iridium Rum has claimed gold in the Best Pot Still category at the World Rum Awards three years running. Palladium—the cask-strength sibling of Iridium—recently scored 98 points, a thunderclap of recognition that sent ripples through international judging circuits. Even the Agave Cask-Finished Rum has earned critical acclaim, blending two hemispheres of tradition with surprising harmony.
But it’s not all about rum. Mt Uncle’s Botanic Australis Navy Strength Gin claimed Gin of the Year and Best in Show at the London Spirits Competition, taking on the behemoths of Europe and walking away with the kind of swagger usually reserved for Hendrick’s or Tanqueray. From classic to smoked to seasonal expressions, the gin line is unapologetically Australian, leveraging the rambunctious character of native botanicals to create gins that are bold, layered, and aromatic.
What sets Mt Uncle apart? Start with the terroir. Everything here is grounded— literally—in the volcanic slopes and rich, agricultural diversity of the Tablelands. The distillery sources ingredients either from its own farm or local producers, making it a living experiment in ultra-local provenance. Rum isn’t made with molasses here, but sugarcane nectar—a velvety, mineral-rich syrup that captures the essence of the land and lends the spirit a complexity far beyond the usual.
Innovation is the lifeblood of this place. Agave Australis, Mark’s passion project, might be the most compelling challenge yet to tequila’s hegemony. Planted from seeds sourced directly from Mexico, Mt Uncle’s agave fields grow faster in FNQ’s fertile red earth than their Mexican counterparts, thanks to ideal tropic conditions. The resulting spirit isn’t a mimic of mezcal or tequila, but a uniquely Australian take on agave, matured in exBarossa Shiraz barrels and kissed by smoke and stone.
This spirit of experimentation extends to collaborations, too. The upcoming coffee-agave release with White Whale Coffee Roasters promises a dark, brooding, caffeinated twist on the category. Meanwhile, the distillery’s range of smallbatch liqueurs continues to expand in step with Watkins’ palate and whims.
Despite international accolades, it would be a mistake to see Mt Uncle as simply a factory of fine booze. The distillery is a destination in its own right. Its cellar door experience is evolving, with live music, daytime bar vibes, and a renewed focus on hospitality. Events like “Music at the Mount”
draw locals and visitors alike, transforming the property into an amphitheatre of sound, spirit, and community.
And the reach is growing. Mt Uncle is now stocked across the country, from Dan Murphy’s to boutique bars, and exports are booming. Shipments are flowing to the UK, New Zealand, Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam. The UK partnership with The Whisky Exchange marks a strategic push into a market historically dominated by Caribbean rum and Old World gin.
Yet, in the midst of global ambitions, the focus remains regional. Watkins is fiercely loyal to FNQ. The climate, the community, the chaos of tropical agriculture—these are the elements that shape his spirits and define his legacy. “Our barrels work harder for us,” he says, pointing to the Tablelands’ wild temperature swings. Here, ageing is accelerated by nature itself, imbuing Mt Uncle’s rums and whiskies with depth in a fraction of the time.
Mark Watkins isn’t interested in trends. He’s not chasing gin fads or flavour-of-the-month infusions. Instead, he’s quietly building a portfolio of spirits that will outlast fashions. With consulting gigs around the country and a global judging resume to match, he’s become both a standard bearer and a mentor for Australia’s next wave of spirit-makers.
In a region already spoiled with excellence, Mt Uncle Distillery is the outlier—not because it tries to be different, but because it can’t help it. Vision, rigour, and a ferocious love for place have fused into something that isn’t just drinkable, but unforgettable.
From Walkamin to the world—this is FNQ, distilled.
Macalister Brewing Co. — A New Brew Legacy
There’s a moment at Macalister Brewing Co., just as the sun slips behind the Macalister Range, when the light filters through the sugarcane and casts a honeyed glow over the 200-seat venue. You could be anywhere, yet nowhere else feels quite like this. That’s the magic of Rob Callin’s brewery—a place that has never pretended to be anything other than what it is: proudly local, quietly exceptional, and now, increasingly generational.
Founded in 2017, Macalister Brewing Co. began as the dream of a Yorkshireborn Industrial Chemist turned science teacher turned award-winning homebrewer. Rob, with his wife Rachel (fondly dubbed “Hoppy”), built the brewery from scratch— quite literally. He welded the tables, painted the brewery floors, and brewed every batch in the early days. Today, the operation is one of the largest independent keg suppliers in Cairns, serving around 60 venues and turning out some of the freshest beer in the tropics.
Yet despite this growth, the brewery remains rooted in its original philosophy: beer is best drunk fresh and local. “We only sell off the doorstep,” Rob says. “If you want our beer, you come to the brewery or one of the local venues we supply. We’re not chasing shelf space in Dan Murphy’s.”
This local-first mindset is more than a marketing slogan—it’s a business model. No preservatives. No pasteurisation. No mass
production. And now, no illusions about who’s steering the ship into the future.
In recent years, Rob has stepped back from the brewing floor, shifting into the role of General Manager. “There’s something called founder’s guilt,” he says. “I feel a guilt not to be brewing, and working the bar everyday like in the early days, but you have to evolve.” That evolution has meant mentoring a tight-knit team of brewers and bar staff, many of whom have become longstanding figures in the business.
At the heart of this new era is Will Callin—Rob’s son and Assistant Brewer—who joined the team straight out of school. Just 20 years old, Will represents the next wave of talent in FNQ’s brewing scene. “He’s learning the ropes, earning good wages, and already stepping up with delivery and brewing responsibilities,” Rob says with unmistakable pride. Holly Klingner, a friend of Will’s from school has joined the front of house team and is doing a stellar job of welcoming the locals and making them feel at home.
Then there’s Joss Monda, now the brewery’s Lead Brewer, whose recent creations include Hazy Little Thing Called Love—a juicy, tropical Hazy Pale that’s fast becoming a favourite—and Revelation Red IPA, a rich, full-flavoured Red IPA. Luke Hanlon, who’s been with Macalister for nearly eight years, continues to drive business development with equal parts sales savvy and community charm. Supporting them are Tim Finney and Liam Jessop, both Bar Supervisors and Brewers, keeping things running with consistency and care.
This sense of continuity isn’t accidental. “We don’t lose staff,” Rob notes.
“It’s still a family business. We trust our people and give them the space to grow.”
What that growth looks like in practice is part of Macalister’s quiet transformation. The brewery now hosts regular events—music bingo, live comedy, themed days like Italy Day and St George’s Day (complete with hand-pulled pints and Scotch eggs)—drawing in loyal locals and curious tourists alike. Most recently, the brewery hosted an evening with Australian psychic medium Alicia Bickett. While not the most obvious pairing with beer, the event was a resounding success, attracting 130 guests and proving that Macalister’s open-minded approach to community programming pays off. “If you bring the crowd, we’ll host the event,” Rob says with a smile.
Indeed, Macalister isn’t just a brewery anymore—it’s a destination. One that pairs a laid-back FNQ lifestyle with the sophistication of a well-crafted pint. With 12 taps and two English handpulls (a rarity in the Far North), the selection caters to all comers, from easy drinking lagers to citrusy session ales and robust porters.
And while expansion opportunities have been explored— including second venues and tap houses—Rob remains pragmatic. “We could open another site, maybe make more money. But this place works. We’ve got something unique here. You can’t replicate the breeze, the view, the vibe.”
In a landscape increasingly dominated by faux-craft labels and corporate consolidations, Macalister Brewing Co. stands as an anomaly: genuinely local, deeply personal, and growing not through flash advertising, but through integrity and community connection. The secret weapon, Rob says, isn’t a secret at all—“We make good beer.”
As Macalister steps into its ninth year, the brewery isn’t just ageing gracefully—it’s evolving. From a passion project in an industrial shed to a regional institution with its eyes on the next generation, this is a business where legacy is brewed one pint at a time.
If you ask a local in Cairns where to find a decent gin and a better conversation, odds are they’ll point you toward the industrial backstreets—specifically, a sunlit corner shed now echoing with laughter, music, and the faint botanical steam of freshly cut citrus. That’s Narrow Tracks Distillery for you: a craft spirits haven turned community clubhouse, where you’re just as likely to walk out with a bottle of rum as you are a new friend, or at the very least, a hot tip on where to get the best pork belly bao in town.
Once envisioned as a modest tasting room for curious sippers and cautious gin dabblers, Narrow Tracks has evolved—organically, gloriously, and probably a little bit accidentally—into something far more than the sum of its stills. In just under two years, it’s gone from “pop in and buy a bottle” to “how is this our regular Sunday hangout now?” The space is open 40 hours a week and has taken on a double life: part production house, part vibrant venue. Think ‘craft distillery’ meets ‘community hall’, but with significantly more juniper.
“It was never meant to be a bar,” co-founder Doug Thorpe chuckles, half-surprised himself. “It just grew into it. Now it’s two businesses—production and venue—and both are kind of mad in their own way.”
Mad, yes—but it works. Somehow, Narrow Tracks threads the needle between being a working distillery and a social anchor, with locals flowing in for lazy drinks under festoon lights, and tourists snapping selfies beside stacked barrels and tasting flights.
Built on Local Spirit—Literally and Figuratively
From the get-go, the ethos at Narrow Tracks was clear: do it yourself, do it well, and do it here. That applies to the spirits (made entirely in-house), the mixers (also made in-house), and the staffing (nearly all local). Even the beer taps are FNQ-only, with guest appearances by the likes of Macalister Brewing Company and Copperlode Brewing Co.
“We make everything on that menu except the beer,” says co-owner Bec Zammit.
This isn’t a place you come to order a Bundy and Coke (and if you do, don’t expect applause). It’s about connection, intention, and educating people on what a distillery actually is. Hint: it’s not just a bar that smells faintly of ethanol.
That uncompromising authenticity can lead to the occasional quizzical eyebrow. “People still walk in asking for Captain Morgan or a glass of pinot,” laughs Doug. “And we have to explain, kindly, that this is a distillery. We make our own rum, thanks very much.”
Events, Smoked Meats, and Shed Sessions
The vibe at Narrow Tracks might be laid-back, but when it comes to events, they don’t hold back. What started as a casual idea to break the boredom of the wet season quickly evolved into a full-blown Sunday affair—featuring local legends like Nick Holloway
(half-cowboy, half-Hawaiian, full pitmaster) firing up a monster smoker, food trucks dishing out the goods, and live tunes echoing through the shed. It’s the kind of easygoing, come-as-you-are atmosphere that keeps locals coming back and gives out-of-towners a taste of FNQ done right. Whether it’s a lazy afternoon BBQ, a one-off cocktail-and-canapé collab, or future plans for hands-on classes and distillery pairings, Narrow Tracks is carving out a niche for creative, community-focused experiences. They’re not trying to be everything to everyone—just authentically themselves, and people are loving it.
Tourism in a Bottle
For all the talk about reefs and rainforests, there’s a growing chorus in FNQ shouting (politely) that food and drink are just as important to tourism here. Narrow Tracks is proof of that. Tourists wander in—some from the Gold Coast, others from as far afield as Germany— and walk away not just with bottles of small-batch gin, but with stories.
“There’s only so much reef you can snorkel,” Bec grins. “Eventually you want a drink that tells you where you are.”
Their gin does just that. Made with native botanicals and local citrus, each expression is a little love letter to the region: hot days, fragrant bush, and sunsets that smell like lemongrass and lime leaf. The cane juice rum? That’s a story in itself—using fresh juice, not molasses, it’s uniquely North Queensland. A little wild, but full of character.
Growing Without Selling Out
Despite the temptation to expand quickly or start pushing bottles through every bottle shop in the country, the Narrow Tracks crew are keeping things personal. They know their locals by name, their repeat customers by dog breed, and every inch of their production process by heart. Scaling up, yes—but not losing touch.
“We’re still learning as we go,” Doug admits. “It’s easier to train a bartender than a distiller. But we’re not interested in becoming just another brand on the shelf.”
The Venue, the Vision, the Vibe
And then there’s the venue itself: open, industrial, somehow both functional and warm, with enough fairy lights to make a wedding planner weep. It’s flexible enough for live music, intimate gatherings, even the occasional wedding (just add flowers and a celebrant, and you’re good to go).
“People keep saying how surprised they are when they walk in,” says Bec. “It’s not what they expect. But it feels like home.”
That’s the Narrow Tracks magic. You might come for the gin, but you’ll stay for the stories—and maybe a brisket sandwich. If this is the future of regional food and drink tourism, pour us another. We’re in.
Wolf Lane Distillery: A Botanical Rebellion in the Tropics
In the sultry heart of Cairns, where reef meets rainforest and humidity is a constant companion, a rebellion of sorts began in 2019. It wasn’t loud or brash— but it was botanical. The Hospo Group, already known for redefining Cairns’ bar culture with Three Wolves, transformed a weathered laneway warehouse into something rare: the city’s first gin distillery.
They named it Wolf Lane Distillery—a nod to its geography, yes, but also to its attitude. From the outset, this was no ordinary spirits venture. Founders Darren Barber, Sam Kennis, and Grant Buckham, soon joined by Andrew Pare and Ben Pape, had something more ambitious in mind. Not just to make gin, but to craft liquid expressions of Far North Queensland itself.
And they did. Wolf Lane Distillery became the first in Australia to hero mango as a gin botanical, producing spirits that tasted like the tropics without cliché. Their Davidson Plum gin bottled the tart punch of the native fruit; their Barista Coffee liqueur, created in collaboration
with Jaques Coffee from Mareeba, offered a velvety, caffeine-kissed nightcap. Even their vanilla was local—sourced from the steamy depths of the Daintree. These weren’t marketing gimmicks. They were flavour decisions, made with intent. And the world noticed. In 2020, their Navy Strength gin took top honours at the Gin Guide Awards in London. A year later, the group was crowned Best Bar Group at the World Gin Awards. Accolades piled up, followed by national distribution through Dan Murphy’s, BWS, and independent bottle shops. The rebellion had gone mainstream—but it never lost its edge.
For the first year, production and service shared a roof. The stills sat metres from the bar; tastings were punctuated by the occasional hum of machinery and the clink of bottles being packed. “We’d be mid-masterclass and a forklift would trundle past,” Andrew Pare recalls, laughing. It was charming chaos—until demand forced their hand. Distilling moved to a larger facility in Bungalow, freeing up the original laneway site to become a dedicated cellar door and cocktail venue.
That shift gave the team room to stretch their creative legs. With its tropical textiles, neon accents, and unapologetically festive vibe, Wolf Lane the bar is part laneway speakeasy, part house party. The original still remains, framed like a museum piece behind the bar. It’s a space that feels curated without feeling staged, loose without being messy.
Cocktails are smart, playful, and often infused with the very botanicals that made the distillery famous. The core gin range is showcased through elegant martinis and spritzes, while seasonal specials like the Christmas Gin—aged in barrels and steeped with festive fruit and spice—bring a touch of theatricality. The latest house favourite? A grapefruit aperitif, bright with citrus and designed to twist the familiar profile of a classic spritz into something distinctly tropical.
The bar also nods to its roots as a distillery with regular tasting flights, guided by knowledgeable
bartenders who share the stories behind each spirit. Gin lovers can explore the nuances of tropical botanicals, while newcomers find a welcoming gateway into the world of craft distilling. It’s not just a drink—it’s a lesson in local terroir.
Community has always been central to the Hospo Group ethos, and Wolf Lane Distillery is no exception. The venue is deeply embedded in the fabric of Cairns nightlife, attracting both curious travellers and loyal locals. Events range from casual tastings to intimate cocktail masterclasses, with a focus on connection, conversation, and creativity.
Wolf Lane also participates in the group’s popular loyalty program, offering regulars a 10% discount across all five of its sister venues. It’s a small gesture that reinforces a bigger principle: hospitality done right builds community.
And while the brand’s reach has grown, the heartbeat remains local. The bar is still run by the same crew who helped build it. The fruit is still sourced from FNQ farms. And the ethos—of creativity, authenticity, and tropical modernism—remains delightfully intact.
Wolf Lane Distillery isn’t just about spirits; it’s about storytelling. Of Cairns’ evolution as a destination not just for sun-seekers but for spirit lovers. Of what happens when a group of friends decides to push boundaries—and does it with flavour, flair, and a sense of fun.
In the tropics, things grow fast. Ideas. Fruit. Reputations. But some things—like this—are built to last.
Lane Distillery 30 Abbott Street Cairns
Wolf
Fruit of the Sun:
Golden Drop, A Legacy on the Tablelands
There’s something ineffably poetic about a mango. Perhaps it’s the aroma—heady and ripe with tropical promise—or the way its juice, once liberated, runs unashamedly down your arm, demanding that you abandon all pretence and surrender to the moment. But at Golden Drop Winery, nestled in the lush fruit belt of Biboohra, it’s not just mangoes that are bottled. It’s legacy, innovation, and, quite possibly, sunshine itself.
Founded on the fertile ambition of the late Charlie Nastasi, this 100-hectare working farm is more than just a winery—it’s a living testament to the spirit of Far North Queensland agriculture. The driveway alone, flanked by 17,500 meticulously pruned mango trees, feels like entering a cathedral of canopy and sunlight. Each tree stands as both monument and metaphor: a symbol of hard work, family unity, and the sweet rewards of looking after the land.
Charlie’s journey from tobacco to tropical fruit was not uncommon in FNQ’s post-tobacco era, but his vision—to create a boutique winery from mangoes—was pioneering. When market prices dipped and surplus fruit threatened to become waste, he saw potential instead of loss. From that spark of ingenuity emerged Golden Drop Winery in 1999, launching with three mango wines: dry, medium, and sweet.
Today, under the stewardship of Charlie’s children—Sam, Dino, Grace—and their families, the range has expanded considerably. There’s the effervescent Sparkling Mango Wine, ideal for balmy coastal evenings; the deep, golden Mango Port, a rich and tropical twist on tradition; and an eye-catching line of liqueurs including the ever-popular Golden Mango Cello, zesty Citrus Cellos (lemon, mandarin, lime), and the jewel-toned Dragon Fruit Cello. Each bottle is a postcard from the tropics, best enjoyed chilled, barefoot, and somewhere with a view.
“Our mango wines are made with Kensington Pride and Australian Kensington Red—varieties that are naturally sweet and full of flavour,” says Grace Parker, Charlie’s daughter and a driving force behind the winery’s evolution. “We wanted to create wines that are uniquely of this place, and that you can’t find anywhere else in the world.”
The cellar door at Golden Drop is a must-visit for anyone exploring the Tablelands. Tasting sessions are structured yet relaxed, offering guests a guided
journey through the range. It’s equal parts education and indulgence, with just the right amount of country charm. Shelves are lined not only with the winery’s own bottles but also with a curated selection of local food products, echoing Golden Drop’s commitment to regionalism.
“We’re passionate about supporting other local producers,” Grace explains. “And increasingly, we’re seeing that same passion reflected in our customers. People want to know where their food and wine comes from—they want authenticity, and that’s what we offer.”
For those who can’t make the pilgrimage inland, Golden Drop also operates a cellar door-style tasting booth at the Kuranda Original Rainforest Markets. It’s a more compact experience, but no less flavourful. Here, amid the artisan stalls and rainforest humidity, you can sip mango cello and imagine you’re back on the Tablelands.
Still, it’s the Biboohra farm that tells the full story. The property’s size and manicured layout make it an ideal stop on any FNQ food trail, especially during mango season when the trees drip with golden abundance.
Golden Drop isn’t just a producer—it’s a pioneer in sustainable farming, recently earning the prestigious Hort360 Reef Certification. This recognition for environmentally responsible practices places the
winery at the intersection of tradition and innovation. “We want to be good stewards of the land,” says Sam. “That’s how we honour Dad’s legacy and ensure the next generation has something to carry forward,” adds Dino. From planting grassy interrows and implementing erosion-control earthworks to minimising chemical use and preserving riparian vegetation, the Nastasi brothers are continuing their father Charlie’s legacy—nurturing the land and safeguarding the waterways that flow to the Great Barrier Reef.
Whether you’re swirling a mango port at sunset, grabbing a cheeky bottle of lime cello at Kuranda, or just standing amid the symmetrical lines of mango trees in the afternoon light, a visit to Golden Drop feels like stepping into a celebration. It’s a celebration of local agriculture, of family legacy, and of the irrepressible optimism that defines Far North Queensland. Because here, every bottle really does hold a little bit of sunshine. And when you raise your glass, you’re not just toasting mangoes—you’re toasting the land, the labour, and the luscious, golden dreams of the tropics.
227 Bilwon Rd, Biboohra 4093 2750
Golden Drop Winery
Beyond the Grape: The Tropical Alchemy of Shannonvale Winery
In a region where the sugarcane bends in the breeze and the rainforest breathes down your neck, you’d be forgiven for assuming that wine is more of a southern affair. But here, tucked just ten minutes inland from Port Douglas, Shannonvale Tropical Fruit Winery is proving otherwise. And they’re doing it without a single grape.
Forget rolling vineyards. This is wine country reimagined for the tropics, where jaboticaba, mango, and black sapote take centre stage. The result? A portfolio of elegant, award-winning wines that don’t just defy expectations—they rewrite them entirely.
“We’re not trying to make mango juice with a kick,” laughs Trudy Woodall, who runs the winery with her son, Laza. “We’re making real wine. Just... from mangoes.”
And jaboticaba. And passionfruit. And lychee. Since 2000, the Woodalls have been fermenting FNQ’s lush abundance into bottles of dry whites, dessert wines, liqueurs, and tropical ports— each crafted with the kind of care usually reserved for fine Burgundy. It’s no gimmick. It’s a genuine expression of terroir in a region where grapes have no business growing.
Shannonvale began as an experiment. Trudy and her husband Tony, originally from Western Australia, moved to the Far North for the climate, the quiet, and the fruit trees. A backyard crop of tropical fruit and a home winemaking kit was all it took to spark something bigger.
“We just kept asking, ‘Why not?’” Trudy says. “Why can’t mango be treated with the same reverence as sauvignon blanc? Why shouldn’t a sapote wine sit on a sommelier’s list?”
The key, she explains, lies in balance. “Tropical fruits are naturally sweet, but they can be surprisingly acidic. Our job is to honour that natural character without letting it run wild.”
The process isn’t plug-and-play. Mangoes ferment differently than grapes; passionfruit demands precision; jaboticaba—a grape-like berry native to Brazil—yields a dry red that baffles and delights wine lovers in equal measure.
“People often arrive sceptical,” Trudy says. “They assume it’s going to be cloying or strange. Then they try the mango dry or the jaboticaba and their whole posture changes. They start asking questions.”
That moment—that conversion—is part of what makes a visit to the cellar door so memorable. Set in a garden of native trees and fruiting vines, the tasting room feels more like a friend’s verandah than a commercial venue. You’ll find no rigid flights or tasting sheets. Instead, you get the winemakers themselves, pouring and chatting, telling stories of floods, fermentation, and the fruit that fuels them.
Trudy is often behind the counter, guiding guests through the full range—from the bright, floral passionfruit wine to the earthy complexity of the black sapote. The jaboticaba, in particular, has become something of a cult favourite.
“We’ll pour it blind and people start guessing pinot noir, gamay, maybe a tempranillo,” says Laza, who is steering the winery into its next chapter. “When we tell them it’s made from a rainforest berry, they’re gobsmacked.”
Every wine is made on site, from fruit either grown on the property or sourced from trusted local growers. There
are no additives, no artificial flavourings, and absolutely no apologies. The wines are what they are: tropical, unexpected, and deeply local.
That local identity has become more important than ever. With climate change redrawing the boundaries of what grows where, Shannonvale is an emblem of agricultural adaptation. Where others might see challenges, the Woodalls see opportunity.
“We believe this is the future,” Laza says. “Regional, sustainable, fruit-forward wines that reflect their landscape. It just so happens our landscape is full of mangoes.”
And people are starting to notice. Shannonvale wines have appeared on local menus and in the hands of chefs eager to pair tropical wines with tropical food. They’ve also collected a tidy handful of medals in national alternative wine shows— though Trudy and Laza are more focused on flavour than fanfare.
“Awards are nice,” Laza says. “But the real reward is watching someone’s eyes light up when they try our wines for the first time. That moment of surprise—that’s what it’s all about.”
For the Woodalls, the winery is more than a business. It’s a family affair, a creative outlet, and a tribute to the land they call home. And for visitors, it’s a glimpse of FNQ at its most innovative: bold, warm, and a little bit wild.
So next time you’re driving back from the Daintree or winding down a Port Douglas holiday, make the detour. Follow the signs through the cane fields and rainforest creeks, and prepare to unlearn what you thought you knew about wine.
Because at Shannonvale, the grapes have left the building. And what’s replaced them is nothing short of delicious.
If You Go:
Shannonvale Tropical Winery
417 Shannonvale Road, Shannonvale QLD
Just 10 minutes from Port Douglas Open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 4:30pm shannonvalewine.com.au
Cellar door tastings, bottle sales, and shipping Australia-wide.
CRAFT BEERS, WINES & SPIRITS IN FNQ
In Far North Queensland, the abundance of choices is simply extraordinary. Nestled between two World Heritage-listed natural wonders, this region boasts not only breathtaking landscapes but also an impressive array of local distilleries, breweries, and wineries. Each of these establishments crafts delightful beverages inspired by our unique surroundings.
To familiarise yourself with the local craft alcohol industry, we’ve included a comprehensive map and guide. This will help you navigate the rich flavours and geography of Far North Queensland.
13. Wolf Lane Distillery - 28-30 Abbott St, Cairns City
Wineries
14. De Brueys Boutique Wines - 189 Fichera Rd, Mareeba
15. Golden Drop Winery - 227 Bilwon Rd, Biboohra
16. Murdering Point Winery - 161 Murdering Point Rd, Kurrimine Beach
17. Shannonvale Tropical Fruit Winery - 417 Shannonvale Rd, Mossman
The Flourishing Breweries, Distilleries, and Wineries of Far North Queensland
Far North Queensland is renowned not only for its breathtaking landscapes and vibrant tourism but also for its thriving craft beer, spirits, and fruit wine scene. The region boasts a variety of breweries, distilleries, and wineries, each offering unique flavours and experiences that reflect the tropical charm and adventurous spirit of FNQ. This article explores the notable brewers, distillers, and vintners shaping the beverage landscape in this part of Australia.
Breweries
Barrier Reef Brewing Co.
Barrier Reef Brewing Co., situated in Cairns, is a key player in the FNQ brewing scene. Known for its innovative approach to brewing, Barrier Reef Brewing produces a range of beers designed to complement tropical locations. Their beers, such as the Two Turtles Pale Ale and Hazy Days Lager, are unfiltered and made from natural ingredients, echoing the brewery’s commitment to preserving the natural beauty of FNQ. Tap room bar operates Thursday, Friday and Saturday often with catering on Fridays. Beer available onsite, and through local stockists and bottleshops. 2/17 Johnston St, Stratford www.barrierreefbrewing.com.au
market. Open Thursday through Sunday, food trucks visit on regular rotation. Beer available onsite, and to takeaway.
65 Tolga Rd, Atherton www.billycartbrewing.com.au
Copperlode Brewery Co.
Billycart Brewing Co.
Billycart Brewing, located in Atherton, is one of the newer additions to the FNQ brewing scene. Known for its small-batch, handcrafted beers, Billycart Brewing offers a range of unique flavours that reflect the local terroir. Their brews, such as the Pale Ale and Uber Crisp, have quickly gained a loyal following. The brewery’s commitment to quality and variety has made it a notable player in the regional craft beer
Situated in an industrial unit in Edmonton, within sight of the picturesque landscape of Lamb Range, on the south side of Cairns, Copperlode Brewery Co. offers a unique craft beer experience. This quirky boutique brewery prides itself on producing small-batch beers with distinctive flavours including River Lizard Lager and Red Dust Draught that embody the essence of FNQ’s natural resources, exploiting the brewery’s proximity to the pristine waters of the Copperlode Dam. Open Thursday through Sunday, food trucks and takeaway delivery are available. Beer available onsite, and to takeaway.
Based in Cairns CBD, Coral Sea Brewing Company is celebrated for its vibrant and refreshing beers. With a focus on creating beers that complement the tropical climate of FNQ, Coral Sea Brewing offers a
variety of styles, including their signature Tropic Pale Ale and Tropic Lager. The brewery accommodates a friendly tap room bar open 7 days. Beer available onsite, and through local stockists and bottleshops.
Bank Lane, Cairns City www.coralseabrewing.com.au
Double Batch Brewing Co.
Located in the laid-back tropical surrounds of Mission Beach, Double Batch Brewing Co. is a rising star in FNQ’s craft beer scene. Brewing on-site within The Garage Bar & Brewhouse, Double Batch produces a small but dynamic range of beers that reflect the region’s easygoing yet adventurous spirit—think tropical pale ales, hazy IPAs, and rich dark ales. The bar itself is an open-air hub with a wood-fired pizza oven, rotating tapas, and live music on weekends, making it as much a destination for locals as for beachhopping tourists. With its breezy, barefoot vibe and serious beer game, Double Batch is helping to cement Mission Beach as more than just a pretty coastline—it’s now a bona fide craft beer stop on the FNQ trail.
Hemingway’s offers an impressive selection of craft beers brewed on-site. Their beers, like Pitchfork Betty’s Pale Ale and Doug’s Courage IPA, showcase a commitment to quality and creativity. The Cairns brewery is set against the backdrop of the Trinity Inlet, while the Port Douglas brewery is right on the superyacht marina complex. Both provide a relaxed atmosphere perfect for enjoying a cold brew while soaking in scenic views of FNQ. Beer available onsite, online and through local stockists and bottleshops.
Cairns - Wharf St, Cairns City Port Douglas - Crystalbrook Superyacht Marina, 44 Wharf St, Port Douglas www.hemingwaysbrewery.com
Hemingway’s Brewery is a standout destination for craft beer enthusiasts in FNQ. With two picturesque locations—one at the waterfront in Cairns and another in Port Douglas—
Located in Smithfield, just north of Cairns, Macalister Brewing Company offers a quintessential Queensland experience. Set in a ‘shed’ overlooking a cane paddock, this brewery captures the essence of the region with its rustic setting and high-quality beers. Their core range includes the popular Cairns Pale Ale and School Day IPA, and the brewery also creates a number of special and seasonal beers. Macalister’s spacious, relaxed environment makes it a favourite spot for gatherings and events. A rotation of local food trucks provide the catering and regular events keep locals and tourists coming back for the excellent beers. Beer available onsite, and through local stockists and bottleshops.
In the lush coastal town of Port Douglas, Devil’s Thumb Distillery brings a bold FNQ spirit to every bottle. Using local botanicals, they produce a remarkable gin, a bold spiced rum, and a refined cane spirit that echo the lush, adventurous surroundings. Their cellar door—a relaxed, open-plan space with ocean breezes and casual elegance—is open daily and offers a full tasting experience. Spirits are available onsite, online, and through regional retailers. 1-3 Owen St, Craiglie www.devilsthumbdistillery.com
Distil on the Hill
Iridium Gold Rum, and the trailblazing Dirt Road Agave— crafted from locally grown agave. A visit here is both sensory and scenic, with tastings available daily in their tropical garden surrounds. 1819 Chewko Rd, Walkamin www.mtuncle.com
Narrow Tracks Distillery
Just north of Cairns, Narrow Tracks makes award-winning gins and ‘moonshine’ in a vintage 1950s warehouse that buzzes with character. This is a destination as much as a distillery—offering cocktails, food trucks, and a calendar of local events. Expect inventive spirits, bold personalities, and a taste of FNQ’s past and future in every glass. 60-70 Magazine St, Stratford www.narrowtracks.com.au
Once a hidden gem in Kuranda, this boutique distillery has reinvented itself in a stylish Smithfield venue. Distil on the Hill is known for eccentric brilliance—gins laced with mandarin, or surprising infusions like apple, pipi shells, and thyme. Rooted in craft and creativity, every bottle here tells a story. Tastings at the cellar door and widespread local availability ensure access to their full range.
High on the Tablelands in Tolga, Andrew and Kelli Smith run one of the region’s most authentic microdistilleries. The vibe is intimate, almost homegrown—but the spirits, including the lauded Reflection Gin, punch well above their weight. The distillery champions sustainability and celebrates the flavours of its landscape, offering insight into local craft culture with every sip. Spirits are sold at the rustic roadside cellar door and online.
Deeral’s FNQ Spirits may be best known for “Croc Piss”—an irreverent, rum-inspired cane spirit—but don’t let the humour fool you. Their range is deeply rooted in local identity and crafted with precision. With no cellar door, the operation relies on online sales and loyal stockists. It’s niche, cheeky, and unashamedly Far North. www.fnqspirits.com.au
Mt. Uncle Distillery
The original FNQ distillery, Mt. Uncle is set amid banana plantations and coffee fields near Walkamin. Its wide-ranging catalogue includes the earthy Botanic Australis Gin, velvety
Plantation Brew Co. Sweet Potato Vodka Distillery
On a mission to turn surplus produce into liquid gold, Plantation Brew Co. transforms gold sweet potatoes into exceptionally smooth vodka. Small-batch, sustainable, and proudly Australian, it’s a triumph of purpose and palate. Though there’s no cellar door, their bottles are widely stocked and easy to find online. www.plantationbrewco.com
Wolf Lane Distillery
In a laneway off Cairns’ CBD, Wolf Lane distils the tropics into every bottle. From their flagship Tropical Gin to an aromatic Grapefruit Aperitif, their range bursts with vibrant, local character. The tasting room oozes style—part cellar door, part cocktail lounge—and is open during the day and into the night. It’s both a showcase of FNQ flavour and a playground for the gin-curious. 28-30 Abbott St, Cairns City www.wolflanedistillery.com.au
Wineries
De Brueys Boutique Wines
Situated in Mareeba, De Brueys Boutique Wines has been pioneering tropical winemaking for decades. Their cellar door, open daily, offers tastings of unique varietals crafted from lychee, jaboticaba, mango, and passionfruit. These wines are complemented by a range of liqueurs and ports, reflecting a deep commitment to local produce. The tranquil setting—complete with shaded verandas and palm-lined walks—makes a visit here feel like discovering FNQ’s own wine oasis. Wines available onsite.
189 Fichera Road, Mareeba www.debrueys.com.au
Golden Drop Winery
liqueurs. Their signature Black Sapote Port and creamy Banana Liqueur have become regional favourites. Named after a shipwreck site and shaped by generations of farming heritage, the winery blends bold creativity with coastal tradition. Open seven days, with products sold onsite and online.
161 Murdering Point Rd, Kurrimine Beach www.murderingpointwinery.com.au
Shannonvale Tropical Fruit Winery
Located in Biboohra just north of Mareeba, Golden Drop Winery has turned the humble mango into an art form. The Siciliano family cultivates over 17,000 mango trees, transforming this seasonal bounty into wines, cellos, and a crisp Mango Sparkling. The cellar door offers free tastings during high season, seven days a week, and their presence at the Kuranda Markets extends their reach to visitors keen on FNQ flavour. Online and onsite sales available.
227 Bilwon Rd, Biboohra www.goldendrop.com.au
Murdering Point Winery
Set amid sugarcane fields just inland from Kurrimine Beach, Murdering Point Winery produces award-winning tropical fruit wines and indulgent
Tucked away in the hinterland north of Port Douglas, Shannonvale Tropical Fruit Winery takes tropical winemaking in a sophisticated direction. Here, black sapote becomes a dry red, kaffir lime becomes a white aperitif, and jaboticaba finds expression in sparkling rosé. Their cellar door—open six days—sits surrounded by rainforest and is renowned for generous tastings and informative chats. Wines are available onsite and online.
From coastal breweries to rainforest distilleries and volcanic-soil orchards, FNQ offers an unparalleled journey through the flavours of the tropics. Whether you’re chasing a mango cello, sipping on sweet potato vodka, or sinking a locally brewed hazy pale ale, the region’s booze trail is as vibrant and diverse as the landscape itself. Be sure to call ahead, sip responsibly, and raise a glass to FNQ’s spirited ingenuity.
The Coffee & Café Culture of FNQ: Beans
& the Barrier Reef
For a city its size, Cairns punches far above its weight in many arenas, tourism, biodiversity, the uncanny ability to forecast rain by the smell of the wind. But when it comes to café culture, this tropical outpost doesn’t just hold its own, it outshines. Melbourne may have the headlines, but Cairns has the soul, the scene, and the sheer density of excellence per square kilometre to make even the most seasoned barista take notice.
In this town, good coffee isn’t a luxury, it’s an expectation. From pre-dawn power espressos to languid brunch lattes under rustling palms, Cairns has woven café culture into the fabric of daily life. Locals have their loyalties, Caffiend’s cult following for inventive plates and community grit; Guyala’s sunrise serenity and native-ingredient menu; Skybury’s sweeping vistas and farm-to-cup ethos. At The Dairy by Mungalli Biodynamic, you’ll find creamy Jersey milk frothed into perfection, while at Envy and Goose, the emphasis is on seasonality and flair.
Roasters like White Whale and Tattooed Sailor don’t just supply beans, they anchor entire café experiences that blend precision brewing with ambient cool. Wharf One, meanwhile, serves up arguably the best waterfront flat white in the Southern Hemisphere. The city is dotted
with spots where you can sip single origin on the sand, debrief a morning hike over cold brew, or eavesdrop on spirited debates about grind size and milk alternatives.
This is not a cookie-cutter café scene. It’s diverse, fiercely local, and powered by a blend of hospitality, artistry, and unrelenting pride. Menus pivot with the seasons. Produce comes from around the corner, not across the country. Interiors range from industrial to barefoot boho, but they all share one trait: intention. These are spaces curated to slow you down, not rush you through.
And in a region that’s no stranger to disruption, floods, heatwaves, the odd cyclone, this café culture endures. Thrives, even. Because it’s not just about coffee. It’s about community. It’s where new businesses are sketched on napkins, friendships are rekindled over turmeric lattes, and the pulse of the city can be felt in every clink of crockery and hiss of milk steam.
Over the following pages, we spotlight the cafés that make Cairns and the wider FNQ region a genuine global contender. Whether you’re into double shots or decaf, minimalism or maximalist brunch, you’ll find something that feels like yours. This isn’t just coffee, it’s Cairns, in a cup.
Cairns’ Living Canvas of Coffee, Culture, and Culinary Play Caffiend:
When you push open the door to Caffiend, you’re not just entering a café—you’re stepping into a curated, breathing installation of food, art, and human connection. The walls speak in layers of graffiti and gallery hangs; the coffee machine purrs like a welltuned engine; and somewhere near the kitchen pass, owner-operator Oliver James is likely moving like a sculptor in his studio—adjusting light, texture, flavour, mood.
Founded in 2009 down a laneway sprayed with youthful rebellion and third-wave coffee ambition, Caffiend quickly established itself as the punk poet of Cairns’ food scene. It wasn’t just the avocado toast or piccolo lattes; it was the feeling—raw, urban, irreverent. A gathering place for artists, musicians, chefs, and misfits. Even after its move to the Grafton Street front and a change of ownership, the spirit lingered like the aftertaste of a single-origin espresso.
When Oliver James reclaimed the café in 2022, it wasn’t a return—it was a reinvention. “Caffiend was always the audacious one,” he says. “It was cheeky, a bit anarchic, totally about the interplay between community and creativity. I wanted to lean back into that.”
That leaning-in has taken many forms. A skateboard deck art show in May 2024 saw fifty local artists take over the walls with work that felt more
alleyway than art fair. Collaborations with musicians, Indigenous creatives, and other hospo outliers have kept the café as much a cultural space as a culinary one. It is once again the kind of place where tattoo artists sketch in the corner, writers sip long blacks with open notebooks, and DJs warm up for a laneway session behind the espresso bar.
Plates as Prose: The New Menu
But if the art on the walls catches the eye, it’s the new lunch menu that captures the soul. It is, as Oliver describes, “a bit cheeky, a bit curious, but rooted in good technique and intention.” He approaches menu development like a screenwriter building a narrative—iconic protagonists, a supporting cast, plot twists in the form of fermented garnishes or unexpected textures.
There’s the Organic Bush Beef Sandwich, a Guinness-laced slow-braise crowned with flame-torched cheddar and house pickles. It’s bold, messy, comforting— think outback pub meets backstreet bistro. The Davidson Plum Benedict reinvents the classic with poached eggs on smashed chats, singing with pickled ginger and citrusy hollandaise, finished with a dusting of nori salt.
Other standouts include the “Kanga” Salad—a protein-rich, visually stunning composition of sous-vide kangaroo, freekeh tabbouleh, lemon myrtle labneh, and house hummus. Even the Reuben gets the Oliver treatment, dubbed “the raucous uncle of the sandwich world,” crammed with house pastrami, fermented cabbage, and enough character to headline its own lunch rush.
“It’s not about being fancy,” Oliver explains. “It’s about being intentional. Every dish should surprise you a little—and feel like it couldn’t exist anywhere else.”
Coffee as Conversation
Of course, Caffiend wouldn’t be what it is without the coffee. Beans come from Tattooed Sailor, Oliver’s roastery just a few blocks away. It’s more than just a supply chain—it’s a deeply ethical and flavourdriven enterprise born of years of cupping, judging, travelling (including a revelatory trip to Ethiopia), and a belief in coffee as global storytelling.
“We roast with a conscience,” he says. “When I buy coffee, I’m thinking about who it supports. That dollar might build irrigation in Guatemala or buy school books in Sidamo. We’re not just pulling shots—we’re redirecting value.”
On-site, the baristas are scientists and storytellers, guiding regulars through frozen grind techniques, flavour curves, and zero-milk brews. There’s no pressure to be a coffee geek—but if you are, you’ll be in good company.
Community as Co-Creator
At its heart, Caffiend is a place that doesn’t just host community—it invites community to shape it. That May 2024 deck show? Not a marketing ploy. A true collaboration with artist Atlantis Wade, it marked a full-circle moment for Oliver, who remembers the café’s early years as a kind of punk salon.
“It felt like a return to what made Caffiend special,” he says. “Back then, it wasn’t just about coffee. It was about the conversations that happened around it. I want to keep creating that kind of energy—a bit unexpected, a bit wild, but deeply human.”
This return to roots isn’t nostalgic. It’s a forwardlooking reclamation of what a café can be: not just a venue, but a vortex of creativity and care. A place where every surface is curated, every sandwich composed, every flat white part of a larger pattern.
A Café with Soul (and Swagger)
Caffiend isn’t neat. It isn’t minimalist. It doesn’t play to trends. It’s layered, impulsive, deeply personal. In many ways, it’s a living self-portrait of Oliver James—a kid raised on French terrines and espresso machines, who sees food as art, coffee as community, and hospitality as sculpture.
“This isn’t just a place to eat,” he says. “It’s a place to be curious, to belong, to connect. If you leave with a full belly and a new idea, then we’ve done our job.”
In a town increasingly known for its tourism polish and resort sheen, Caffiend remains gloriously unvarnished. And that’s precisely its power. It invites you in—not just to dine, but to co-create.
And Cairns, with open arms and curious tastebuds, keeps walking through that door.
Guyala Cafe Tattooed Sailor Caffiend
Newell Street Cafe
Cairns Coffee School
Storytelling on a Plate at the Edge of the Sea Guyala Café:
If Caffiend is Oliver James’ unruly firstborn, then Guyala Café is the calm, contemplative younger sibling—quietly powerful, rooted in deeper waters. Perched at the north end of the Cairns Esplanade, where the ocean breeze meets morning light, Guyala is a café with a mission far beyond breakfast.
Named after the white-bellied sea eagle in the Yirrganydji language, Guyala is not just a nod to place— it’s a promise to honour it. From the moment it opened in early 2020, the café has made space for culture, conversation, and culinary exploration to thrive. It sits inside the Spinal Life Australia Centre—fully accessible, completely inclusive, and intentionally part of the fabric of the community it serves.
For Oliver, who co-designed the café from concept to cutlery, Guyala was never meant to be a sequel to Caffiend. “It needed to be something else,” he says. “More generous, more spacious, more deliberate. A place that could hold the stories of this land and still be accessible to everyone.”
Culinary Curiosity Meets Cultural Consciousness
The menu at Guyala is where Oliver’s reverence for place becomes tangible. Every dish is a quiet celebration of native ingredients, seasonal produce, and the region’s diverse culinary heritage. But nothing feels forced. “The menu shouldn’t scream ‘native foods!’—it should whisper them in,” he says.
Take the Lemon Myrtle Hollandaise Eggs Benedict, layered with wilted spinach and your choice of locally sourced protein. Or the Truffle Mushroom Toast, so good it won a national title in 2022 from the Australian Mushroom Growers Association. It’s decadent yet grounded, indulgent yet undeniably local.
Guyala’s approach isn’t about fusion for fusion’s sake. It’s about “listening to the land,” as Oliver puts it. “You wouldn’t throw chilli into everything just because you like it. Why should you do that with lemon myrtle or bush tomato? There has to be respect.”
Even sweeter items have a local soul. The Pina Colada Waffle Stack has become a cult hit—the kind of dish that feels like a story passed down, not a recipe invented.
A Café Built for Everyone
What makes Guyala unique is not just the food, but how it frames the experience of dining. Every table, corridor, and countertop is wheelchair accessible. Staff receive cultural competency training. Front-of-house team members are encouraged to bring their full selves to the jobs.
This intentional inclusivity isn’t branding. It’s baked into the DNA. “You can’t just say you’re community-oriented—you have to design for it,” Oliver insists.
It’s no coincidence that Guyala shares a roof with the Spinal Life Australia hub. The partnership was deliberate from the outset, reflecting a vision of hospitality that extends care to everyone who comes through the door. The café hosts art from local First Nations creatives, works with regional growers, and runs staff development programs focused on empowerment over hierarchy.
It’s a model of what hospitality can be when it’s not just about service—but about stewardship.
Guyala Cafe Tattooed Sailor Caffiend
Newell Street Cafe Cairns Coffee School
Coffee as Ceremony
Of course, no café under Oliver’s helm would neglect coffee. Here too, Guyala walks a line between precision and soul. The beans come from Tattooed Sailor, roasted on Newell Street just inland, and brewed with the kind of quiet reverence that lets the flavour speak for itself.
Guyala’s flat whites are silky and balanced, but for the coffee curious, there are often limited releases on pour-over, or seasonal blends designed to highlight lesser-known origins. “You won’t see a sign saying, ‘best coffee in Cairns,’” Oliver laughs. “But if you ask where the beans came from, someone will be able to tell you the name of the farmer and the soil profile.”
Beneath the Calm, a Quiet Audacity
At first glance, Guyala is tranquil. The pale timber furniture. The breezy verandah. The Esplanade walkers pausing for their morning caffeine fix. But underneath that calm is the same Oliver James magic: layered intention, culinary philosophy, cultural respect, and a touch of mischief.
“Every dish has to feel like it belongs here,” Oliver says, gesturing at the ocean horizon. “This isn’t Bondi or Byron. This is Gimuy, this is Cairns. This is Yirrganydji and Yidinji country. The food should reflect that.”
An Invitation, Not a Performance
What Guyala ultimately offers is a different kind of hospitality. One that doesn’t demand attention but rewards it. One that invites pause, curiosity, and communion.
It’s the kind of café where a bowl of wattleseed granola might open a conversation about food sovereignty. Where brunch can be a cultural experience, not just a calorie hit. Where every bite feels like it’s part of something more.
“It’s not about being flashy,” Oliver says. “It’s about being true.”
And in that truth, Guyala has quietly become one of the most meaningful, beautiful, and delicious places to eat—not just in Cairns, but in Australia.
From Pasture to Palour:
Twin Temples of
Taste
In the lush heart of the Atherton Tablelands, where mist suspends just above the rainforest canopy and cows graze contentedly on biodynamic pastures, Mungalli Creek Biodynamic Dairy has long been a beacon for those seeking food with provenance. Now, with the addition of The Dairy Ice-creamery & Milkbar in Cairns, this family-run enterprise offers two distinct yet harmoniously connected culinary experiences for locals and visitors alike.
The Farmhouse Café: A Homestead of Flavour
Perched amidst rolling green hills, the Farmhouse Café is more than just a place to eat; it’s a journey into the soul of Mungalli Creek Biodynamic Dairy. Housed in the original family home of the Watson brothers, Rob and Dan, the café exudes rustic charm and authenticity. The verandah offers panoramic views of the farm and the majestic Mount Bartle Frere, Queensland’s highest peak.
The menu is a celebration of the region’s bounty. Signature dishes like the Mungalli cheese platter or ploughman’s lunch showcase a selection of the dairy’s award-winning cheeses, complemented by locally made camembert, fresh and dried fruits, crudités, and homemade chutneys. Their housemade pies are
also very popular. For those with a sweet tooth, the café’s scones, served warm with berry jam and Jersey cream, are legendary. And let’s not forget the quark cheesecakes—a creamy nod to the dairy’s European heritage.
Gluten Free and all diets are catered for and beyond the plate, visitors can peruse a curated selection of artisan products, from handcrafted cheeseboards to locally produced jams, chocolates, soaps and artisan works, making the café a perfect stop for both gastronomes and gift-seekers.
The Dairy Ice-creamery & Milkbar: Urban Indulgence with a Country Heart
Venturing into the city, The Dairy on Shields Street brings Mungalli Creek Biodynamic Dairy’s farmfresh ethos to the urban landscape. Opened in 2021, this ice creamery and milk bar offers a modern twist on traditional dairy delights, channelling the same sustainable values that underpin its countryside sibling. Here, the spotlight shines on an array of innovative ice cream flavours, delicious drinks and coffee all crafted using biodynamic milk from the farm. The ice-cream is Lactose Free and Organic but delicious
for everyone. Standout flavours include the Daintree Forest—a rich chocolate base swirled with Davidson’s plum syrup—and the Blueberry & Basil Ripple, a refreshing combination that surprises and delights. Mungalli produces Australia’s only Organic Lactose Free Ice-cream making it a treat the whole family can enjoy. The house made Choux Pastry Puff Sundae is a delicious as is the house made honeycomb, which can be added to any scoop.
A Unified Vision: Sustainability and Community
At the core of both establishments is Mungalli’s unwavering dedication to sustainable practices and community engagement. The dairy’s biodynamic farming methods not only ensure the highest quality products but also promote environmental stewardship. By integrating these principles into their cafés, the Watson family offers patrons more than just a meal— they provide a connection to the land and the people who cultivate it.
Whether you’re savouring a grazing platter whilst overlooking the Tablelands, sipping on a mango smoothie, or indulging in a scoop of ice cream in Cairns’ bustling city centre, Mungalli Creek Biodynamic Dairy invites you to experience the harmony of nature and nurture in every bite.
The Dairy 1 Shield St, Cairns
Mungalli Creek Dairy 254 Brooks Road, Mungalli
Coffee, Papaya and the Reinvention of a Destination SKYBURY CAFE
In the breezy heights of the Atherton Tablelands, Skybury Cafe sits like a treehouse temple to tropical agriculture. The air smells of roasted beans and ripe fruit; the view stretches beyond coffee rows and papaya paddocks to the far blue ridgelines. But Skybury is no ordinary coffee stop. It’s the frontfacing heart of a bold agricultural experiment—a place where visitors don’t just drink the coffee; they taste the farm’s future.
Skybury began its journey in 1987 as Australia’s first commercial coffee plantation. By the late 1990s, founders Ian and Marion MacLaughlin had opened a roastery and café on-site, pioneering agritourism before the word had a trendy ring. Their daughter, Candy MacLaughlin, now general manager, remembers being involved in the café’s first architectural drawings in her mid-twenties. “We wanted it to be more than a café. We wanted people to feel a part of what we do,” she says.
Today, under Candy’s stewardship, that vision is evolving. While coffee remains a pillar, the spotlight is shifting. Skybury is now one of the largest papaya producers in Australia, and the cafe has become the launchpad for a quiet papaya revolution. “Every dish must include either coffee or papaya,” Candy says. “It’s our golden rule.” That rule has led to a menu as bold as the farm’s ambition: papaya smoothies and spritzers, chicken korma with a hit of papaya sweetness, and even a papaya latte—a creamy, curious blend that surprises sceptics. The café has become an incubator for tropical culinary creativity, giving diners a low-risk, high-reward way to reimagine this underappreciated fruit.
It’s also a space undergoing transformation. Recent upgrades have refreshed the building’s exterior and reimagined its interior use. A formerly open balcony is now enclosed, offering a dedicated space for interactive experiences like tastings, talks, and workshops. One such event saw visitors build their own papaya boats while learning how to judge ripeness and prepare the fruit.
“We see the cafe as a storytelling space,” Candy explains. “The more we can bring people into
that story, the more they’ll connect with what we do— and what this region can offer.”
Plans are underway to use the upstairs gallery space for exhibitions and artist collaborations, further blending food, art and community. A recent commission by Melbourne street artist Tim Phibs—whose vivid art now graces a tractor at the exterior—is the first in a proposed series. It’s part of Candy’s vision to turn Skybury into a cultural hub, not just a culinary one.
“No business should ever stand still,” she says. “Reinvention is how we bring people back, how we keep the conversation going.”
Skybury Cafe is more than a picturesque pit stop. It’s a sensory gateway to the food systems and stories that define the Tablelands. And in the hands of a new generation, it’s becoming a beacon for what agritourism can be: educational, delicious, and always evolving.
Envy Espresso:
Cairns’ Urban Eden for Coffee Lovers
In a city where the reef meets the rainforest and the humidity hangs heavy like gossip in a tropical bar, finding a café that offers both respite and ritual is no small feat. Yet, tucked beneath a corporate office block on Grafton Street, Envy Espresso continues to do precisely that. Five years on, it remains the steady heartbeat of Cairns’ quiet coffee renaissance: brisk, bright, and unmistakably metropolitan—without ever losing its Far North Queensland soul.
Compact but potent, Envy isn’t your Instagram-ready, bohobeanbag kind of coffee shop. It’s a precision machine. A clean-lined, green-and-white minimalist space softened by the warm hum of grinders and the scent of single-origin espresso. No gimmicks. No slogan mugs. Just the gentle confidence of a place that knows exactly what it’s doing.
That clarity comes from James and Tracey Duan—a couple whose hospitality DNA spans continents and cultures. Their journey began in a Chinese family takeaway shop, passed through the competitive laneways of Melbourne’s café scene, and finally landed in Cairns in 2019 with a simple but sharp vision: fast, flawless coffee for the CBD crowd, served with big-city polish and tropical charm.
“The goal wasn’t to be trendy,” says James. “It was to be consistent. People want to trust their morning coffee. They want it to hit right, every time.”
And it does. Envy’s house brews are roasted just a few blocks away by the Duans’ own roasting arm, Ransom Specialty Coffee, which has rapidly outgrown its start-up shell. What began as a necessity—ensuring bean quality and supply—has turned into a full-blown micro-roastery that’s powering cafés across the region. Ransom now supplies beans to their sister venue Goose, to local collaborators, and to a growing cohort of baristas who know good coffee when they taste it.
But it’s not just about flavour—it’s about fluency.
“Most people still only drink flat whites, long blacks, or lattes,” James observes. “But coffee is where wine was 30 years ago. It’s exploding in complexity— processing methods, varietals, altitude, even fermentation. It’s an evolving world, and we want our customers to evolve with it.”
To that end, Envy is now rolling out a rotating coffee menu curated by its baristas—seasonal, educational, and just a little bit geeky in the best way. Think coffee flights, cold-filtered single origins, and tasting notes scrawled in chalk like a sommelier’s blackboard. There’s a sly invitation here: stray from the usual. Stay curious.
That curiosity extends to the food. Envy’s all-day menu is a masterclass in elevated simplicity. Brunch staples like smashed avocado and eggs are executed with the kind of finesse that makes you do
a double-take. The French toast—white chocolate and raspberry— is basically dessert for people who want to eat dessert at 9am without judgement. Portions are just right, plating is effortless, and everything leans into the ethos: fresh, fast, and subtly indulgent.
Still, the Duans aren’t content just running a tight café. They’re building an ecosystem.
Ransom, for starters, is evolving beyond roasting. Earlier this year, they launched a service and repair division for espresso machines, partnering with local technicians and training apprentices to create FNQ’s first integrated coffee service hub. “If your machine breaks, we don’t just fix it,” says Tracey. “We show you how to maintain it. How to calibrate it. How to actually understand what’s happening in that hopper.”
The approach is quietly revolutionary for a region that’s long lacked access to the kind of back-end support found in bigger cities. And it’s all driven by the same logic: empower local businesses, elevate the standard, and grow from the inside out.
That local-first mindset has become Envy’s superpower. While tourist trade ebbs and flows like the tide, Envy hums with daily consistency. “Eighty-five to ninety percent of our customers are local,” James says. “We’re part of people’s routines. Their rhythm. That trust means everything.”
And in an era where economic pressures are forcing many hospitality businesses to scale back or close up, Envy feels like a case study in how to evolve without losing your roots. It’s not about expansion for its own sake—it’s about intention. About knowing who you are, and why you matter.
For Cairns, Envy Espresso is more than a pit stop for caffeine. It’s a kind of urban anchor. A metropolitan moment in a tropical town. A place where the coffee is serious, but the vibe never is. Where you can get your usual—or discover something entirely new—without needing to pretend you’re a connoisseur. In the end, Envy isn’t about envy at all. It’s about aspiration. Not in the influencer sense, but in the honest, everyday pursuit of something better: a better flat white, a smoother workflow, a place where your name’s known and your coffee’s hot.
It’s the café you wish was downstairs from your office. For Cairns, it already is.
Goose in full flight
In a city where the tropics flirt with the cosmopolitan, Goose Specialty Coffee continues to lead the charge—frothy, fragrant, and fearlessly forward-thinking. Corner-set on Sheridan and Upward Streets, just north of Cairns’ city centre, this café is more than a caffeine pit stop or a stylish sibling to the owners’ other venture, Envy on Grafton Street. It’s a destination that keeps reinventing itself—much like the city it calls home.
Since opening in 2021, Goose has quietly built a reputation as one of the region’s most dynamic cafés. The space alone is enough to turn heads: polished concrete, clean lines, and a design minimalism that whispers Fitzroy but breathes FNQ. But it’s what’s brewing behind the bar and sizzling in the kitchen that makes Goose unforgettable.
First: the coffee. Goose exclusively pours beans roasted by Ransom Specialty Coffee, the boutique operation acquired by the venue’s owners James and Tracey Duan in 2023. That local loop—from roast to cup—is part of what makes Goose so special. Ransom’s reputation is already gleaming with accolades, including multiple medals at the Golden Bean Coffee Roasting Competition. But what sets it apart isn’t just awards—it’s accessibility.
From flat whites to filters, cortados to cold brews, Goose’s baristas deliver a spectrum of coffee experiences that range from comfortably classic to flamboyantly niche. Fancy a juicy Ethiopian natural, bursting with berry and citrus? Done. Prefer a long black with chocolate undertones that feels like your morning hug? Sorted. The Goose crew are more than skilled—they’re sensory navigators, bringing a level of panache and precision that wouldn’t be out of place on any big-city coffee strip.
“We want our baristas to lead the way,” says James, “which is why we build our seasonal menu around what they love, what they want to share. It keeps things fresh, keeps us passionate, and keeps the customers curious.”
And while the coffee may be the gravitational centre, the orbit around it just got a whole lot tastier.
Enter Ludo, Goose’s newly appointed head chef. With a distinctly French culinary lens and a taste for innovation, Ludo brings a fresh sensibility to the Goose menu—a playful, precise, and sometimes provocative mash-up of European technique and Antipodean brunch culture.
The results? Inspired. And deeply delicious.
Since stepping into the Goose kitchen, Chef Ludovic—originally from Normandy and now four years into his Australian journey—has infused the menu with a distinctly French spirit, reimagined for the tropics. His dishes are driven by curiosity, joy, and a firm belief that “happy chef, happy food.” That energy translates into plates that are both comforting and creatively charged.
The Fresh Salmon Tartine is his cheeky twist on Scandinavian gravlax: house-cured salmon with beetroot, lemon, and sugar, served atop chive cream cheese, sundried tomato pesto, and pickled cucumber. It’s a bold, coastal breakfast that tastes like a sunrise over the North Sea, plated for the Coral Sea.
Then there’s the Smashed Avo Croissant, which Ludo affectionately calls his “baby.” A flattened, buttery croissant piled with avocado, tomato chutney, parmesan, rocket, and a poached egg—it’s a French-Aussie hybrid that crunches, oozes, and delights in equal measure. “It’s salty, sweet, and messy in the best way,” he says. “It makes people smile.”
Other highlights include the Spanish Bean Stew, a winter-warming dish of saffron, paprika, garlic, and root vegetables from Rusty’s Market, crowned with a poached egg and served with sourdough—nourishing, gutsy, and deeply regional. Or the Mushroom Hummus, a refined earthy blend topped with paprika oil, an Earl Grey egg, candied pistachios, and house-made mushroom ‘soil.’ “It’s vegetarian,” says Ludo, “but rich, comforting, and full of music.”
Ludo doesn’t cook to impress. He cooks to connect. The familiar is never quite what you expect, but always exactly what you want.
“There’s a freedom in Cairns,” he says with a Gallic shrug and a grin. “You can create food that tastes like a memory—but dress it like the tropics. It’s exciting.”
And that’s what Goose does best: it excites. It surprises. It evolves. From its design-forward interior to its seasonally shifting coffee and fearless food philosophy, Goose feels less like a static café and more like a curated experience. A local stalwart with metropolitan instincts and a restless creative streak. It’s also deeply rooted in community. Regulars are known by name. Dogs are welcomed like dignitaries. Conversations about coffee often spill into discussions about music, design, or which local farm supplied the herbs that morning.
Goose is a reminder that regional excellence doesn’t have to look like a barn with sourdough and lavender. It can be cool, urban, confident—and still deeply, deliciously local.
In a city rapidly discovering its own culinary identity, Goose is both a mirror and a muse. It reflects Cairns’ growing sophistication, while nudging it ever-sogently forward.
So whether you’re chasing your next caffeine revelation, in search of the perfect brunch, or simply need somewhere that gets your tastebuds talking— follow the Goose. It never steers you wrong.
Goose Specialty Coffee
154 Sheridan Street Cairns 4211 4104
Wharf One Café:
Cairns’ Waterfront Chameleon
There’s a moment—somewhere between the first bite and the second sip—when the penny drops. It happens at Wharf One Café as you sit under the Queensland sun with Trinity Inlet glittering before you, a plate of eggs benedict and a cup of house-blend coffee warming your hands. You realise this isn’t just another café with a view. It’s the view with a café, and then some. Perched on the edge of the Coral Sea, Wharf One Café occupies a rare sliver of Cairns’ living history. The old wharfside, once a bustling hive of maritime commerce, is now a haven of tropical stillness and open skies. Wharf One sits at its heart, the closest venue to the water in all of Cairns, with nothing but sunbleached timber and salt air between you and the sea. The building itself is a gem—constructed from upcycled wharf materials and artfully reimagined as an open-air pavilion that catches every breeze and amplifies every view.
Peter Crotty, the café’s owner since 2020, is no stranger to waterfront charm. Born in New Zealand and seasoned in top European bars and Australian venues,
he speaks about Wharf One with the kind of affection usually reserved for vintage yachts or childhood beaches. “I’ve always gravitated toward water,” he says. “This is as close to it as you can get.”
And it shows. Under Peter’s stewardship, Wharf One has evolved into more than just a daytime eatery. While the café’s breakfast and lunch service has long been a favourite among locals and visitors alike— thanks to a menu that leans into organic, local produce and dishes full of colour and character—it’s the café’s transformation into an events powerhouse that’s turning heads.
Each year, Wharf One now hosts upwards of 80 events, with weddings taking centre stage. In 2025 alone, over 30 weddings are booked, a number that speaks volumes in a region crowded with venues. What sets Wharf One apart? It’s a combination of natural setting, personal service, and just the right touch of whimsy.
“Weddings are my favourite,” Peter admits, grinning. “There’s a special energy when people gather
here to celebrate love.” That enthusiasm translates into flexibility and flair. The venue offers tailored packages that go far beyond standard fare—think horse-drawn carriages, fireworks over the inlet, and spontaneous samba bands. With AV systems, microphones, a wedding arch, and thoughtful catering options all part of the offering, couples are encouraged to dream big. Peter and his team are known for making those dreams happen. “We get some wild requests,” he laughs. “If it’s within my power, I’ll make it happen.”
That ethos of can-do creativity permeates the whole operation. Head chef Phil Vue—Peter’s longtime collaborator from Waterbar & Grill days—brings a decade-plus of camaraderie and culinary trust to the kitchen. The menu is under regular refinement, with new seasonal dishes in development and old favourites occasionally rotated off.
says Peter. “It needs to be excellent, every time.” It is, and it’s winning a loyal following of caffeine-savvy locals and tourists alike.
What remains constant is the essence of Wharf One: a sense of place. On a good day—and there are many—you can sit with a South-Easterly breeze at your back, a freshly plated brunch in front of you, and feel as though you’ve landed somewhere extraordinary. Not just a café, and not just a venue—but a chapter in Cairns’ unfolding story of food, community, and celebration.
If you’re seeking a wedding that feels like a tropical dream without a hint of pretence, or a weekday breakfast that tastes of both ambition and ease, Wharf One Café delivers. Again, and again.
Wharf One
Coffee, however, remains sacrosanct. Wharf One’s in-house blend—a 100% organic fusion of Papua New Guinean and Colombian beans—is roasted locally under their own label. “Coffee is part of the lifestyle up here,”
Trinity Wharf, Wharf St, Cairns 4031 4820
Coffee with Conscience
White Whale’s Portsmith Hideaway
In an industrial corner of Cairns where most expect warehouses and the hum of forklifts, you’ll find something altogether more aromatic: White Whale Coffee Roasters. It’s a café, yes—but also a kind of pilgrimage site for the coffee curious. This is not your average caffeine stop. From the scent of fresh-ground beans to the subtle swirl of crema in your cup, every part of the experience is intentional, crafted, and infused with purpose.
The space is understated but warm, with a sense of quiet confidence that reflects its owners, Ali Slotemaker and Stephen Lee. They’ve been roasting beans and building community since 2010, first as Industry One, and since 2019 under the name White Whale—a nod to Migaloo, the famed white humpback that glides along Queensland’s coastline. Like the whale itself, the venue is a gentle but unmissable presence.
The café’s design marries minimalism with comfort. Reclaimed timber, polished concrete, soft lighting, and a constant undercurrent of espresso— all curated without pretence. There’s no tourist-trap hustle here, just the gentle rhythm of regulars, tradies, creatives, and travellers who’ve somehow found their way to this quiet part of Portsmith.
White Whale’s appeal lies not only in its setting but in its product. The team roasts a tonne of high-grade coffee each week, drawing from origins like Ethiopia, Brazil, Colombia, Papua New Guinea, and Timor-Leste. Their most popular blend, Beach House, is smooth and versatile. But for those wanting to venture deeper, Riptide—rich in cocoa with a fruity edge—is the brew of choice. Every coffee tells a story, and if you ask, the baristas will gladly share it.
That storytelling takes literal form in their tasting paddles. Yes, tasting paddles—for coffee. Like something you’d expect at a brewery, these curated flights let you explore espresso variations, filter brews, and cold brews side by side. It’s not just clever. It’s educational, immersive, and yes—Instagrammable.
Beyond the cup, White Whale quietly encourages patrons to be part of something bigger. Reusable cup discounts, 100% GreenPower usage, and their standout partnership with the Resilient Reefs Foundation (formerly the Reef Restoration Foundation) are just part of their sustainability mission. Since 2019, more than $100,000 from bean sales has supported reef rehabilitation.
Despite their growing reputation—now supplying over 40 other outlets—the café remains grounded. Ali, Steve, and their staff maintain a vibe that’s personable and unhurried. Whether it’s a tourist with a wheeled suitcase discovering the place for the first time, or a local office worker grabbing their daily fix, the experience is the same: genuine welcome, expertly made coffee, and a quiet sense of something meaningful beneath it all.
For those who’ve ever wondered how to take their home coffee game to the next level—or simply want to understand what goes into a truly great cup—White Whale has something special brewing. At their purpose-built Portsmith facility, a dedicated barista training room offers courses for both budding professionals and everyday enthusiasts. Whether you’re a curious flat-white devotee or an espresso aficionado, the sessions are designed to demystify the process, improve technique, and deepen appreciation for the humble bean. It’s one more way White Whale invites its community not just to drink coffee—but to understand and enjoy it, from the inside out.
Recently, the café reinstated Saturday trading after a five-year hiatus, much to the delight of the “weekend warriors” who now descend for tasting boards and their popular crème brûlée lattes—yes, blowtorched to order.
As coffee venues go, White Whale is unlike anything else in Cairns. It’s a meeting place, a thinking space, and an ethical cup—all brewed together in one industrial-luxe hideaway. For those who like their coffee with a side of conscience and a hint of story, it’s the place to be.
Claire Howells on Events, Elegance, and the Tropical Allure of Far North Queensland
Love on Location: :
There’s a certain quality to the light in Far North Queensland that feels cinematic. The sun lingers longer, the shadows are softer, and everything— the mountains, the mangroves, the mango trees—glows. It’s a region that refuses to fade into the background. And for those in the know, it’s not just a postcard-perfect backdrop for holidays, but a rising star in the world of weddings and events.
Few know this better than Claire Howells of Claire Victoria Wedding Design. With her background in Decorative Arts and a career spanning two decades across food, beverage, and event management, Claire is more than a planner—she’s a regional custodian. Equal parts artist and operator, her reputation as a go-to events insider stems not from fanfare, but from fluency: fluency in place, in people, and in the logistics of making magic happen in a rainforest that might—on any given afternoon—deliver a spontaneous monsoon.
“I started in events when I was still a teenager, helping my parents with charity galas back in the UK,” Claire reflects. “By the time I landed in Cairns, I’d already worked in venues, catering, and management. I understood how every moving part worked.”
What sets Claire apart, however, is what she’s done with that knowledge. From her studio in Palm Cove, she designs more than weddings—she designs experiences. Her client list includes couples from across the globe, local businesses, regional councils, and creative collaborators. Her events are stylish without being showy, grounded in the environment but never rustic for rustic’s sake. Above all, they’re intentional.
“It’s not about chasing trends,” she says. “It’s about listening—to the couple, the client, and the place. FNQ has a rhythm. You have to work with it, not over it.”
That rhythm is what makes the region so irresistible. Here, the landscapes do half the styling for you. Want to host a product launch under the canopy of an ancient fig tree? Or a leadership retreat where the only white noise is a waterfall? Far North Queensland makes the improbable not only possible, but desirable.
And the food—oh, the food. With such short supply chains, it’s possible to serve pawpaw picked that morning, barramundi line-caught from nearby waters, or chargrilled banana blossom dressed in lime grown just down the road. “We work with extraordinary caterers who can tell you the name of the farmer behind every ingredient,” Claire says. “It elevates everything. People can feel when food has a story.”
Of course, pulling off an event in FNQ requires more than scenery and seafood. It demands local knowledge, nimble planning, and a deep network of trusted collaborators. This is where Claire excels. Her vendor relationships are long-standing, often spanning years of shared weddings, sudden weather pivots, and wordless nods exchanged across bump-ins and late-night pack-downs.
“You need people who don’t flinch when the forecast changes,” she laughs. “Florists who know how to keep a bouquet fresh in 34 degrees. Musicians who can pivot from power outages to unplugged serenades without losing the vibe.”
From Port Douglas to the Tablelands, Claire’s name is often the first whispered when a perfect event is being planned. Not because she dominates the spotlight—she doesn’t—but because she knows how to weave every thread into a seamless tapestry.
Ask her for her favourite venues, and she won’t give you a list so much as a collection of considered odes to place. Each one chosen not just for its beauty, but for how it works—with the weather, the light, the mood, and the menu.. There’s Castaways Resort in Mission Beach, where couples can say their vows just steps from the surf, with canapés served as the sea breeze rolls in. Or Mulgrave Gardens on Cairns’ southside—a lush, Thai-inspired oasis perfect for longtable dinners under the stars.
For something more adventurous, there’s Skypark by AJ Hackett, where the rainforest meets adrenaline and weddings come with optional bungy jumps. Or The Sugar Shed in Yorkeys Knob, framed by cane
fields and golden-hour skies—rustic without being cliché.
In the Tablelands, she adores Mt Quincan Crater Retreat: a crater-top venue with Seven Sisters views and grazing platters served fireside. And then there’s Lakeside Retreat in Port Douglas, a twinQueenslander haven where elegance wears flip-flops and high heels equally well.
What ties them all together is not a single aesthetic, but an ethos. “FNQ isn’t about formality,” Claire says. “It’s about feeling. That’s what people remember—the mood, the warmth, the joy.”
That’s true whether it’s a wedding, a brand launch, or a milestone celebration. Increasingly, Claire sees crossover between corporate and personal events, especially among clients who want to avoid sterile conference centres in favour of venues with soul. “You can deliver keynotes in the morning and sip cocktails by the reef at sunset,” she notes. “It changes the energy. People are more present.”
She’s also seeing a shift toward smaller, smarter events. “Elopements. Microweddings. Purposeful retreats. People want depth, not just dazzle.”
Still, dazzle has its place. And when done well—understated, immersive, and impeccably timed—it’s transformative.
“It’s those moments when you light the candles and the music starts,” Claire says, “and you can see everyone exhale, just a little. That’s when I know we’ve done it right.”
So, if you’re dreaming of an event with soul, substance, and just the right amount of sparkle, start here. Start with Far North Queensland. And if you’re smart, start with someone who knows how to read the sky, charm the locals, and move a cushion two inches until it’s perfect.
Because when the mood is right, and the mangoes are ripe, FNQ doesn’t just host your event—it becomes part of your story.
Where the Magic Happens
Claire’s curated list of venues reflects FNQ’s diversity and charm:
Castaways Resort, Mission Beach –Beachfront elegance with seasonal in-house catering and open-air pavilions. The sound of waves as your ceremony soundtrack? Yes, please.
The Sugar Shed, Yorkeys Knob – Cane fields, sunset light, and rustic romance. A DIY-friendly venue that offers authenticity in spades.
Skypark by AJ Hackett, Smithfield – For the bold: panoramic rainforest views, and yes, a bungy platform if you’re into grand symbolic gestures.
Mt Quincan Crater Retreat, Yungaburra – A crater-side escape in the Tablelands, perfect for intimate gatherings and misty morning vows.
Mulgrave Gardens, Southside Cairns – Thaiinspired gardens with marquee-friendly lawns and BYO catering flexibility. Lakeside Retreat, Port Douglas – Twin Queenslanders and serene water views. Understated luxury at its finest.
Claire Victoria Wedding Design Cairns & FNQ
Ochre Catering:
FNQ’s Culinary Vanguard of Place, Precision and Provenance
There are few names in Far North Queensland that command the same reverence among gastronomes, event planners and visiting dignitaries as Ochre. A fixture in the Cairns food landscape for over three decades, Ochre Restaurant & Catering has not merely ridden the wave of modern Australian cuisine—it helped carve its contours. Led by chef and founder Craig Squire, Ochre has consistently championed the ingredients, culture and climate of the tropics, serving them with a side of elegant, unfussy excellence.
From its waterfront home at Harbour Lights, Ochre operates both as a lauded restaurant and as one of the most sophisticated event catering operations in Northern Australia. But it is not their marina views or classic refinement that has defined
their legacy—it is their relentless dedication to regionally rooted cooking and their astonishing ability to bring that ethos to scale.
In 2019, that scale reached new heights. Among a constellation of major events, one stood apart: the Amway China Leadership Seminar, a gala dinner series serving over 6,000 guests across several nights. Ochre transformed the Australian Armour and Artillery Museum into a rainforest-meets-reef wonderland, plating three-course meals for nearly a thousand attendees at a time with
theatre, grace and clockwork precision. It wasn’t just a display of logistical muscle; it was a masterclass in storytelling through food.
Menus featured native ingredients like wattleseed, lemon myrtle, Davidson plum and Kakadu plum, paired with tropical seafood, pasture-raised meats and the distinctive produce of the Tablelands. These are not just culinary choices—they are statements of place, intentionally woven into every event, from gala dinners and weddings to civic launches and industry conferences.
In 2024, in just over six weeks, Ochre delivered an astonishing array of highcalibre events—catering 600 guests for the Australian College of Audiology, 500 for the Clipsal Home Conference, 570 for the Wagyu Beef Association Dinner, and delivering standout service for clients including the Family Business Association and Ritchies Supermarkets. They also executed seamless public catering at major events like Crankworx Cairns and the UCI Masters Mountain Bike World Championships, and brought their signature canapé perfection to the Brisbane 2032 Olympic Games
Launch hosted by Cairns Regional Council. True to their founding philosophy of “anywhere, anytime”—where no job is too small, too big, or too far—Ochre recently travelled with a team of 24 to Hughenden to serve 600 diners under the stars. Alongside largescale functions, their calendar is filled with smaller, bespoke events that reflect the same high standards and regional pride.
This knack for scaling without dilution—for preserving artisanal attention across hundreds of covers—is perhaps Ochre’s most impressive feat. It’s not uncommon for high-volume catering to slip into compromise; what sets Ochre apart is that each plate feels crafted, not copied. That commitment has earned them accolades year after year, and 2024 was no exception.
Among their recent haul: the Trip Expert Choice Award (given to less than 2% of venues globally), a coveted spot in Tripadvisor’s Travellers’ Choice top 10%, and the Best of Queensland 100/100
rating. Their wine list—exclusively Australian and proudly showcasing Queensland producers—was recognised by the Australian Wine List of the Year Awards. And for the third consecutive year, Ochre was ranked in the Three Best Rated for modern Australian cuisine in Cairns.
But the awards, while validating, are just icing. The soul of Ochre lies in its vision of food as both education and experience. Through their MAKE TRAVEL MATTER partnership with Contiki, they offer tourists immersive bush-food dining, introducing guests to the taste and significance of native ingredients like quandong, pepperberry, and saltbush. These aren’t novelties, but deeply rooted elements of an evolving regional cuisine.
None of this happens without leadership, and Craig Squire remains one of FNQ’s most influential culinary voices. A veteran of native ingredient innovation long before it was fashionable, Squire continues to push boundaries while mentoring the next generation of chefs and hospitality professionals. His ethos is clear: champion local, cook with care, and never lose sight of storytelling.
As Ochre approaches its fourth decade, it stands not just as a restaurant or a catering service, but as a cultural institution. One that has elevated what it means to eat, host and celebrate in the tropics. From a canapé in the rainforest to a banquet beneath warplanes, Ochre is proof that great food, like all great art, speaks volumes about where it comes from—and who it’s for.
For FNQ, Ochre isn’t just catering. It’s culture, plated and served.
RIPE FOR CHANGE:
The FNQ Avocado Story from Orchard to Table
Far North Queensland’s lush tablelands and volcanic soils have long been known for producing premium tropical fruit — but in recent years, one creamy green superstar has taken centre stage: the avocado. Once a niche crop, this fruit is now deeply rooted in the region’s agricultural identity and economic future. But as national production swells and consumer habits evolve, FNQ’s avocado growers are being called to adapt, educate, and innovate to remain at the forefront of Australia’s booming — and increasingly complex — avocado industry.
Australia’s Avocado Appetite Keeps Growing
Aussies can’t get enough avocados. In the 2023–24 season, national consumption reached an all-time high of 4.94 kg per person, and industry analysts predict further growth as avocados continue to dominate brunch menus, home kitchens, and wellness trends.
More than 150,000 tonnes were produced across Australia last year — a 30% increase over the past three seasons — with Far North Queensland responsible for around 42% of the country’s supply.
But abundance brings challenges. Oversupply in recent seasons has led to significant price drops, forcing some growers — including those on the Atherton Tablelands — to remove trees or scale back planting to manage market pressures. “We’ve had a few tough calls to make,” admits Mitchell Cudmore of Coola Farms in Walkamin.
“But the quality of our fruit and the resilience of our region keeps us going.”
The Shepard-Hass Debate: More Than Skin Deep
One of FNQ’s most prominent contributions to the national avocado market is the Shepard avocado, a green-skinned variety that ripens without changing colour. Available between February and May, Shepards thrive in the tropical and subtropical climate of FNQ and are celebrated by growers for their creamy, nutty flavour and slower oxidising flesh (they don’t brown as quickly once cut).
Despite their merits, Shepards remain misunderstood by many consumers who expect avocados to turn dark when ripe — a hallmark of the Hass variety. This disconnect often results in Shepards being eaten before they’re soft and ready, leading to complaints about texture and taste.
“It’s not the fruit — it’s the lack of awareness,” says Cudmore. “Shepards don’t give you that obvious ripeness signal, so people get confused. But once you know how to handle them, they’re amazing.”
Growers and industry bodies have ramped up education efforts in recent years, using in-store signage, social media, and recipe campaigns to help Aussies better understand the diversity of avocados available to them. These efforts are slowly paying off — especially among younger consumers, who are increasingly curious about seasonality and sourcing.
Sustainability and Innovation in the Orchard
Like many in FNQ’s agricultural community, avocado growers are embracing sustainable practices to future-proof their operations. From solar-powered irrigation systems to biological pest control, farms across the region are integrating modern tech and traditional wisdom to maximise yield while minimising environmental impact.
Coola Farms is no exception. “We’re focused on soil health, water efficiency, and careful picking practices,” explains Cudmore. “It’s not just about producing volume — it’s about doing it right.”
The region’s unique geography also allows for an extended harvest season, offering a market advantage. While Hass dominates from May to September, FNQ’s earlier-season Shepards help bridge the supply gap and keep avocados on shelves almost year-round.
Looking Beyond Domestic Borders
With the domestic market nearing saturation, export potential is a growing area of interest for FNQ producers. In the past three years, Australian avocado exports have surged by over 600%, thanks in part to new trade access to India, Thailand, and China.
FNQ’s early harvest and consistent quality make it a strong candidate for premium international markets. “There’s a real appetite for clean, green Australian produce overseas,” says Cudmore. “If we can tell the story and maintain that quality, there’s huge opportunity.”
Traceability and branding are key. Growers are now investing in systems that allow international buyers to track fruit from tree to table — a selling point in discerning markets.
A Story Worth Sharing
In a competitive food landscape, differentiation matters — and for FNQ’s avocado growers, storytelling is becoming as important as supply chain logistics. From café collaborations and market tastings to agritourism and behind-the-scenes videos, efforts are underway to connect consumers with the people and places behind the fruit.
“It’s about more than just fruit on a shelf,” says Cudmore. “It’s about sharing the care, the process, and the pride we take in what we grow.”
As the industry recalibrates and consumers become more engaged, FNQ stands poised to not only meet the moment but help shape the future of avocados in Australia and beyond.
A Very Juicy Journey:
A Slightly Irreverent Guide to Tropical Fruits of Far North Queensland
Welcome to Far North Queensland, where the fruit is flamboyant, the flavours are outrageous, and the only thing more intense than the humidity is the personality of the produce. Forget your apples and pears. Up here, fruit doesn’t sit quietly in the fruit bowl—it explodes onto your palate, sometimes literally.
Let’s take a cheeky tour of the region’s most eccentric fruit celebrities.
BREADFRUIT: Is it bread? Is it fruit? Is it secretly a potato? Breadfruit is the existential crisis of the tropical pantry. Originally from the Pacific Islands, it’s now a local staple. Roast it, fry it, mash it—it still won’t explain itself.
DRAGON FRUIT: The peacock of the fruit world. Vibrant pink skin, spotty flesh, and all fashion, little flavour. A cactus cousin that looks better than it tastes, but it wins points for drama. Great in smoothies and on TikTok
ABIU: Shy, yellow, and soft to the touch, the Abiu is the introvert of the fruit world. Native to the Amazon but thriving in FNQ’s fertile soils, it tastes like caramel custard made by a fruit that grew up watching cooking shows. Scoop it fresh with a spoon and prepare to smile involuntarily.
CUSTARD APPLE: Somewhere between a dragon egg and a brain, the custard apple dares you to judge by appearances. Native to South America but beloved in FNQ, its creamy, dreamy, pale flesh tastes like banana and pineapple had a picnic.
DURIAN: The only fruit with its own restraining order in several countries. Native to Southeast Asia, now grown on daring FNQ farms. Smells like regret, tastes like angel food. Eat it outside. Far away. Preferably alone.
BLACK SAPOTE: Known as the chocolate pudding fruit, or as we like to call it, the ultimate health food loophole. Native to Central America and embraced by FNQ growers, its dark, custardy flesh looks like a mistake and tastes like a miracle. Slap it on toast and pretend it’s Nutella. Your dietician will never know.
DAVIDSON PLUM: This sour little goth fruit is all drama. Deep purple, painfully tart, and packed with antioxidants, it’s native to FNQ’s rainforests and makes excellent jam and even better Instagram content.
HERBERT RIVER CHERRY: Blink and you’ll miss it. This tart little number is as elusive as a good parking spot in Port Douglas during school holidays. Native to North Queensland, it’s great in sauces, better in trivia quizzes.
JACKFRUIT: The overachiever. Native to South Asia, massive and meaty, jackfruit does mains and desserts. Vegan pulled “pork”? Check. Tropical trifle centrepiece? Check. What can’t jackfruit do? Answer: fit in your fridge.
MANGOES: Royalty. Queenslanders don’t bleed red, they bleed mango pulp. Whether you’re slurping one on the beach or fighting your cousin for the seed, mangoes—especially Kensington Pride—are the messy, magnificent monarchs of summer.
RAMBUTAN: Like a lychee got dressed up for Mardi Gras. Hairy on the outside, juicy on the inside. Native to Southeast Asia, now growing with flair across FNQ. Peel it and prepare to be seduced.
JABOTICABA: Grapes that grow on tree trunks? Sure, why not. FNQ doesn’t play by the rules. Native to Brazil, these sweet, tangy spheres are nature’s weird little secrets. Makes excellent wine. And conversation.
MANGOSTEEN: The queen to durian’s controversial king. Native to Southeast Asia, mangosteens are sweet, demure, and classy as hell. You need to break them open like a geode to get to the treasure. Expect purple fingers.
SOURSOP: Don’t let the name fool you. It’s a lovechild of strawberries and pineapples with a creamy texture that’ll make your blender sing. Originally from the Caribbean, now right at home here. Allegedly good for everything, from dessert to divine enlightenment.
LONGAN: The lychee’s low-key cousin. Native to Asia and now grown in FNQ, this translucent orb is mildly floral and vaguely mysterious. Like a character from a moody French film. Pairs well with contemplation and tropical downpours.
PAPAYA: Also known as pawpaw, depending on your postcode and personality. Native to Central America, it’s now FNQ breakfast royalty. Subtly sweet, delightfully orange, and full of enzymes that do mysterious good things to your insides.
STAR APPLE: Looks like a magic trick, tastes like sweet milk. Native to the West Indies, this glossy fruit hides a starburst pattern inside. The most poetic fruit you’ll ever eat with a spoon.
So there you have it: the fruit bowl of Far North Queensland, unfiltered and unapologetically weird. At the markets, on the roadside, or hanging low on a backyard tree, these fruits are waiting to surprise you. Eat them, admire them, fear them (in the case of durian), but above all, celebrate them. Because up here, even the fruit is larger than life.
The Business of Doing Good Inside White Whale Coffee Roasters
WhiteWhale Coffee Roasters isn’t just a café—it’s a quietly ambitious business punching well above its weight. Founded by Ali Slotemaker and Stephen Lee, it began as a passion project in the wake of the Global Financial Crisis, morphing into a specialty coffee roastery that now serves over 40 outlets across Far North Queensland. But perhaps more remarkably, it has become a business with purpose stitched into every seam.
The shift from Industry One to White Whale in 2019 marked more than a rebrand. It was a philosophical reawakening. Ali, an environmental scientist by training, saw an opportunity to use the business as a conduit for positive change. Today, a portion of every bean sale supports reef rehabilitation, and sustainability is woven into decisions from packaging to power sourcing. “People want their dollars to do more,” Ali says—and White Whale ensures they do.
At the core of this growth is a strong internal culture. One of the standout figures is General Manager James Campos, who entered the business casually after a stint in Indigenous affairs. Starting on the espresso machine, he steadily moved through dispatch, operations, and business development before stepping into his current leadership role. His story is one of opportunity meeting drive—exactly the kind of growth Ali and Steve aim to foster.
James now spearheads wholesale relationships, green bean sourcing, and staff development. His focus is clear: making White Whale approachable, ethical, and progressive. “We’re not here to be number two,” he says. “We want to be the best—without ever losing our values.”
He’s particularly passionate about the supply chain, advocating for greater consumer understanding of where coffee comes from and the people who grow it. “Most people enjoy coffee as a habit. But very few think about the person at the end of the value chain,” he notes. White Whale now sources beans from closer neighbours like East Timor and PNG, both for ethical reasons and to reduce freight miles.
Internally, they’ve also embraced digital innovation. Flow—an analytics tool that tracks every espresso shot—helps reward top-performing baristas and identify training opportunities. Upstock, a New Zealand-developed wholesale platform, has transformed their ordering system. These tools aren’t gimmicks; they’re part of a larger strategy to run a leaner, smarter, values-aligned operation.
Hiring and retaining top-tier talent in Cairns has proven challenging, but White Whale is now exploring the DAMA visa pathway to bring in and keep quality staff. “You can’t grow a business if you’re constantly training from scratch,” James says. “We need
consistency—and we need to make sure our staff are looked after.”
That means more than wages. Staff have participated in gym sessions to safely learn how to lift heavy equipment. Plans are underway for a financial advisor to help team members manage their super and future goals. It’s thoughtful, practical stuff—and emblematic of the company’s approach.
White Whale’s commitment to education and excellence has taken physical form with the creation of a purpose-built barista training room at their Portsmith facility. Designed to mimic a working café environment, the space is equipped with commercial machines and sensory tools to train both budding professionals and curious home brewers. It’s not just about pulling the perfect shot—it’s about cultivating a deeper respect for the craft, the science, and the story behind every cup. “We want to raise the bar for coffee in Cairns,” says James. “And that starts with sharing knowledge in a space designed for learning.”
As White Whale grows from a small-batch roaster into a medium-sized operator by national standards, its leadership remains laser-focused on quality and conscience. “It’s easy to talk sustainability,” James says. “It’s harder to build it into everything you do.”
And yet, they have. From the reef to the roastery, from cup to culture, White Whale is proving that a business can be both principled and profitable.
Shed 2, 4/16 Tingira St, Portsmith 0459 647 273
White Whale
FNQ FOOD MAGAZINE: ROAD BITES
“The Humpy: Where Your Snack Dreams Go Troppo”
If you’ve ever driven the Atherton Tablelands with a rumbling stomach and no clear lunch plan, a detour to The Humpy Nut World is non-negotiable.
Just west of Atherton, on a curve of the Kennedy Highway where banana farms and rolling hills lull you into a sugar coma, The Humpy stands like an old mate waving you in for a yarn—and a snack. No neon signs, no polished deli fonts. Just corrugated iron, faded paint, and the unmistakable aroma of roasted macadamias and missed opportunities (from anyone who didn’t stop sooner).
The
Snack Stop to End All
Snack Stops
Previously featured in FNQ Food Magazine’s look at local farmgate legends, The Humpy now returns in full roadside glory. After another midweek drop-in—and emerging with black garlic paste, dried banana, jerky, and a jam lineup worth fighting customs over—there’s no question this spot deserves more than a footnote.
This isn’t just a shop. It’s a rite of passage. You come for the macadamias, but stay for the black garlic aioli, the sweet chilli peanuts, the cookies made in Kuranda, and the sauces with names that double as warnings.
The shelves tell a story that no tourist brochure can. Each jar, packet and bag speaks of backyard orchards, weekend market stalls, and families who’ve turned FNQ’s tropical bounty into something that keeps. There’s no faux-rustic signage, no branding agency polish—just the work of real locals, in all its weird, wonderful glory.
Old-School Aussie, Locally Grown Heart
No QR menus. No wellness smoothie bar. Just a straight-up showcase of Far North Queensland’s edible pride. Every shelf reads like a Tablelands produce map:
• Skybury jams in Papaya, Coconut Papaya, and Ginger Papaya
• Jamie’s Hot Sauce collection, with heat levels from mild to menacing
• Black Garlic & Co. spreads and aioli, made for sandwiches that slap
• Sassy Sauce, Bob’s Tropic Espresso BBQ, and other small-batch bottles built for campfire feasts
There’s also vacuum-packed fruit from local orchards—dried mango, banana, and pineapple—plus raw and roasted nuts, FNQ-grown coffee, local honey, and a few wildcard finds like native bush spice blends and salted caramel peanut brittle that tempt even the strongest-willed grazers.
Even the drinks fridge is a local love letter: regional ginger beer, cold brew coffee, and fruit juice in glass bottles with actual pulp. It’s the sort of stock that feels curated by instinct, not marketing meetings.
A Roadie With Crunch Appeal
A road trip through the Tablelands doesn’t begin until a Humpy bag hits the passenger seat. While servo sausage rolls have their place, The Humpy restores faith in road food with snacks that are grown, made, and bagged by local hands.
From the rich, smoky chew of Aran’s Brew Jerky to the melt-in-your-mouth Double Choc Kuranda Cookies, every item feels like a piece of regional pride wrapped in cellophane. More than one visitor has left with a “souvenir box” that includes six jams, three sauces, and a kilo of macadamias. Completely normal behaviour.
And for the indecisive? That’s what the sample trays are for. There’s always a spoon in the chutney, a toothpick in the fudge, and someone behind the counter ready to offer “just one more taste.”
Top Humpy Picks
(Based on Taste Tests and Real Shelf Stock)
• Salted Macadamias – Classic, buttery, impossible to stop eating
• Ginger Papaya Jam (Skybury) – Tropical and punchy with toast appeal
• Sassy Sauce – FNQ’s answer to smoky ketchup with attitude
• Aran’s Brew Jerky – Four hours of applewood smoke, and it shows
• Kuranda Cookies – Hazelnut & Coffee – Rustic crunch with local cred
• Black Garlic Aioli – Sandwich game-changer
• Jamie’s Stupid Hot Sauce – Comes with a coffin on the label. Enough said
• Coconut Papaya Jam – Toast. Ice cream. Spoon. No wrong answers
Will you walk out with your arms full of locally made sauces, jams, and snack mixes? Almost certainly.
The Humpy Nut World is FNQ at its tastiest— real produce, made by real people, without the frills or fuss. Whether you’re refuelling after waterfalls or just stretching your legs, it’s a snack pilgrimage worth pencilling into every road trip.
Next time the car’s pointed Tablelands-bound, swing by. Taste everything. Take home a bag. Then thank yourself on the drive back down the hill. And remember—life’s too short for bad road snacks. The Humpy 1-21 Kennedy Hwy, Tolga 4095 4102
FNQ FOOD TRAILSCassowary Coast
The Cassowary Coast offers a wide range of wines, tea and coffee, fruit and veg, as well as delicious deli goods, sandwiches and burgers. Enjoy a drive and check out the delicious cuisine.
Murdering Point Winery
Set amongst fertile cane fields and lush tropical rainforests of North Queensland, Murdering Point Winery offers a range of high-quality red and white fruit wines, ports, liqueurs and creams that are uniquely Australian and deliver an exciting and stimulating tropical taste experience. Founded in 2001, Murdering Point Winery has rapidly gained a reputation for the quality of its wines and the innovative use of a wide range of exotic tropical fruits, particularly in making wines using Australian native tropical fruit, Davidson Plum.
Open seven days 9.30am to 5pm
Pacific Coast Eco Banana Farm
The Eco Banana, also known as the ‘Wax Tip Banana’ is the creation and passion of Frank and Dianne Sciacca of Pacific Coast Produce. They created a new way of farming because they knew there was a better way to grow produce safely and sustainably – without reliance on chemicals, fertilisers and insecticide. When you taste their distinctive, wax tipped banana you will see that it is creamier tasting, the perfect size for a lunchbox and will last much longer in your pantry.
Open Monday to Thursday 8.30am to 4pm, Friday 8.30am to 1pm
Nucifora Tea Plantation
Nucifora Tea, 100 percent Australian grown tea, is a fresh pure single-origin black tea. Nucifora Tea Estate located in the tropical rainforest-Palmerston area of Far North Queensland was founded by Sebastian Nucifora in 1985, adjacent to the World Natural Heritage Wooroonooran National Forest Park. With abundant sunshine and rainfall throughout the year, the fertile soil has been silently nourishing the tea trees.
Open weekdays 9am to 4pm, weekends 10am to 3pm
Ripe Harvest Café
Delicious breakfast and lunch options are available at Ripe Harvest, featuring eggs benedict, steak sandwiches and burgers, as well as tea and coffee, fresh juices, smoothies and milkshakes.
Open Monday to Friday 6am to 3pm, Saturday 8am to 1pm
Leny’s Tropical Fruit, Veg & Juice Bar
Leny’s Fruit & Veg offers the freshest fruit and vegetables and a wide range of local and exotic products with personalised service. They sell fresh baked local bread, fruit smoothies, exotic tropical fruit, Mungalli dairy products, Plum’s Butcher meats, exotic flowers, local chocolate and wholefood products plus much more.
Open Friday to Wednesday 8am to 6pm, Thursdays 8am to 5pm
Mission Beach Markets and Monster Markets
Markets feature a variety of stalls, including local fruit and vegetables, delicious freshly prepared food and snacks, as well as smoothies.
Mission Beach Markets: Opposite Hideaway Holiday Village in Porter Promenade in the Mission Beach Village, held on the first and third Sunday of the month from 8am to 1pm.
Monster Markets: Held on the last Sunday of each month from Easter Sunday until the end of November, 7am to 12pm
The Pocket Coffee & Fresh Produce
An unexpected ‘pocket’ of freshness and delight situated in the rolling green hills of El Arish - The Pocket is a locally-owned business, supplying fresh fruit and vegetables along with delicious barista-made takeaway coffee, coffee beans, locally made baked goods, pickles, chocolate, dairy products and honey.
Open weekdays 6.30am to 2pm, weekends 7.30am to 3pm
Paronella Park
The Paronella Park ‘Cafe on the Deck’ is open daily for lunch or a morning or afternoon treat. Serving fresh food, you can enjoy sandwiches, wraps, cakes and slices, along with decadent fruit smoothies.
Open seven days a week 9am to 7.30pm
Madella by the River
Madella Coffee is grown in rich alluvial soil on the banks of the beautiful South Johnstone River. This is what gives their coffee the sweetness of taste seldom found in other coffees. Madella is of single origin – harvested, hulled, dried and freshly roasted by their Master Roaster on location. Tours are operated on request. Known for great 100 percent Arabica Coffee, supplying many local businesses, Madella By the River is the perfect spot for business meetings, group bookings and staff parties.
Open: Offering tours, morning and afternoon teas, lunch and dinner, all by appointment only.
Oliveri’s Continental Deli
Guests reserve a table for tasty dishes at the deli and enjoy the sights of Innisfail Temple. Taste perfectly cooked deli sandwiches, rolls and salami. There is a delicious selection of deli goods including cold meats, olives and cheese.
Open weekdays 8.30am to 5pm and Saturdays 8.30am to 12pm
FNQ FOOD TRAILSAtherton Tablelands
The Atherton Tablelands feature an abundance of tea, coffee and wine, as well as delicious cheese, chocolate, ice cream and yoghurt. The Tablelands offer the perfect backdrop for indulging in amazing cuisine – it’s definitely well worth a drive!
Golden Drop Winery
Locals and tourists from all over the world visit the Golden Drop Winery every day for the unique experience of visiting a working mango plantation, and to sample their lovely refreshing tropical Mango Wines, together with Citrus Cellos, Mango Port and Golden Mango liqueur style wine. There are more than 17,500 trees, making it one of the largest mango plantations in Australia. Products are made from Australian Kensington Red Mangoes. Golden Drop Winery’s uniqueness and location is reflected in the colours of their packaging – selected specifically to reflect the colours of the Australian outback and the North Australian savannah.
Open: Biboohra Winery – daily 9am to 4.30pm, Kuranda Cellar Door – daily 10am to 3.30pm
Skybury Café & Roastery
Skybury has been growing Australian coffee and red papaya just outside Mareeba, on the rich soils of the Atherton Tablelands, since 1987, roasting and shipping delicious Bourbon variety of Arabica coffee at Australia’s oldest coffee plantation. Skybury Café & Roastery offers signature dishes, freshly roasted coffee, locally distilled liqueurs, cocktails and tastings, a virtual farm tour and majestic farm views.
Open Monday to Friday 10am to 4pm
Mt Uncle Distillery
Founded by the innovative head distiller, Mark Watkins, in 2001, Mt Uncle Distillery has become a renowned producer of premium spirit and liqueur brands. Utilising crops grown in the fertile volcanic soil of the Atherton Tablelands, as well as ingredients sourced directly from the Mt Uncle farm and trusted local suppliers, the distillery is committed to using only the highest quality, locally sourced Australian ingredients. This dedication to excellence has earned Mt Uncle an impeccable reputation and the recognition of industry experts through numerous awards and accolades. Blending traditional techniques with modern innovation, Mt Uncle Distillery continues to push the boundaries of what is possible in the world of spirits and liqueurs.
Open daily 10am to 6pm
Gallo Dairyland
Well worth a drive and only an hour from Cairns on the lush tropical Atherton Tablelands you will find a dairy farm that has opened their doors to the public. With the farming enterprise positioned between Atherton, Malanda and Yungaburra, you will be pleasantly surprised to find a fully operational dairy farm; a gourmet cheese factory; a sensational café and last but not least, the most beautiful hand-crafted chocolate. The Cheese Factory is open to visitors. See where the cheese is made and watch the DVD presenting the factory in operation as well as footage of the dairy farm. Gallo Dairyland delicately hand craft the most beautiful chocolate made from the finest Swiss couverture to create their own irresistible chocolate. The café is fully air-conditioned offering a wholesome menu from 10am.
Open Wednesday to Sunday 10am to 4pm (kitchen open until 2pm).
Mungalli Creek Dairy Café
The café serves decadent meals made from their biodynamic dairy products and locally sourced organic produce. They also serve fresh scones still warm from the oven, cheesecakes and ice cream for morning and afternoon tea. Biodynamic farming techniques and healthy pastures ensure healthy, contented cows and the best milk available for their products, which include milk, ice cream, yoghurt, cream, cheese, iced coffee and iced chocolate, as well as a wide range of lactose-free products.
Open daily 10am to 4pm
Emerald Creek Ice Creamery
Emerald Creek has more than 40 flavours of ice cream and sorbet, so at any one time they offer 14 ice cream flavours and six sorbet flavours in their scooping display cabinets for you to enjoy. Flavours include Apple Pie, Bubble Gum, Coconut, Milk Chocolate, Macadamia, Mango; and Tiramisu. There are plenty of other products to choose from, including biltong, fudge, jams, chutneys, relish and marmalade. The café offers light lunches, sweet food, as well as tea and coffee, milkshakes and thickshakes.
Open daily 10am to 4.30pm
Coffee Works
Coffee Works offers a wide range of coffee, tea, chocolates, liqueurs, as well as gift ideas for birthdays, Easter, Christmas and other occasions. Established in 1988 in Rusty’s Market, Coffee Works has expanded to include locations in Cairns, Port Douglas, Atherton, Mareeba and Townsville.
Open daily 8am to 3pm
Rainforest Bounty
Rainforest Bounty features a range of curry bases, vinegars, sauces, chilli paste, chutney, syrups and conserves. They also host cooking schools and other events.
Dr Geraldine McGuire (PhD) has been collecting and tasting rainforest fruits since she was a child growing up in tropical North Queensland. This game of ‘bush roulette’ gave her a deep appreciation for the natural world. Rainforest Bounty has become a leader in regenerative agricultural systems, sharing the bounty of the rainforest with Australia and the world.
Open Monday to Friday 8.30am to 5pm
FNQ FOOD TRAILSPort Douglas to Daintree
We are blessed with a plethora of local produce in the Daintree region, including a range of exotic fruits, tea and coffee and delicious ice cream. Cafes and restaurants feature delicious local produce on their menus, be sure to check them out next time you are in the area, they are truly a feast for the senses!
Cape Trib Farm
Cape Trib Farm offers a delicious escape from the world and an adventure for your taste buds. Bursting with more than 70 rare and exotic fruits, and celebrated for its iconic farmgate tasting experiences, it is a must for foodies. Tantalise your taste buds and indulge in a tour around the world of tropical and exotic fruits. From the delectable chocolate pudding fruit, to the creamy mamey sapote, you’ll enjoy a platter of exotic fruit.
Tours are generally run from Easter through to end of October, and held on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday – please check dates and availability online
Turtle Rock Café
The Turtle Rock Cafe and Bar offers fresh wholesome food, great coffee and outdoor dining, with a casual atmosphere in the heart of Cape Tribulation. With a menu offering sandwiches, burgers, cakes, muffins and delicious meals made to order, it is also known for its locally grown coffee and healthier food options for guests, including wraps and smoothies made from local exotic fruit. The Turtle Rock Cafe and Bar showcases the wide variety of delicious produce the Tropical North Queensland region has to offer. Using Malanda milk, farm fresh eggs and cheese from the Southern Tablelands, Mareeba grown coffee, fresh produce from the Atherton Tablelands and locally grown exotic fruits, you can experience the best of North Queensland produce in one place.
Open 7.30am to 3pm
Daintree Tea
The Daintree Tea Company is located on the Cubbagudta Plantation, situated in the heart of the Daintree. The plantation was established in 1978 by the Nicholas family, who still own and operate the business. As more people from all over the world are discovering the pesticide free Daintree Tea, this black unblended pure Australian tea has become more and more popular due to its excellence in taste and aroma. Tea connoisseurs state that the flavour is second to none and the aroma is delightful. Many Australian tea blenders choose to mix Daintree Tea in their own blend to boost their flavour and aroma.
Open daily 9am to 5pm
Daintree Ice Cream Company
It’s ice cream like you’ve never had before, in the heart of the heart of the oldest rainforest in the world. Ice cream, gelatos and sorbets are handmade on site using classic artisan methods. Exotic fruit organically grown and farmed on the onsite orchard adds a tropical twist to a traditional dessert. Ice cream is served in signature cups featuring four unique, fresh flavours, which change daily depending on which fruit trees are in season. Open your mind and your mouth to the weird and wonderful world of exotic fruit ice cream, gelatos and sorbets – imagine flavours such as lychee, banana, coconut, dragonfruit, pineapple, chocolate, mangosteen, macadamia, mango and vanilla.
Open daily 9am to 5pm
Floravilla Ice Creamery
Lovingly created ice creams capture the essence of local ingredients to produce a unique range of flavours. Floravilla’s processes blend traditional ice cream-making techniques with an exotic mix of tropical fruit and flavours to produce a tantalising ice cream experience. Treat yourself to unique flavours including Chocolate Indulgence, Double Choc Rum & Raisin, Coconut Mint Chocolate, Cherry Ripe, Coconut, Macadamia, Passionfruit, Banana, Dragonfruit, Strawberry, Rhubarb and Black Sapote – there are more than 60 flavours to choose from depending on the season!
Open daily 9.30am to 4.30pm
Hook-a-Barra
It’s a barra bonanza! This 2.5 hour farm and fishing combo tour is the best of the best. It starts with a one hour farm tour, where you get to go behind the scenes at the Daintree Saltwater Barramundi Farm, to see how they grow and supply top quality produce to some of Australia’s finest restaurants. It takes you from their front gate, through to the baby barra ponds and growing ponds where you get to feed the barra and help check their weight and health. Witness hand-harvesting of the iconic barramundi by the experienced and professional team and then try to catch your own, at the big Barra Pond. Top it off with a gourmet tasting platter - paddock to plate!
Open daily – please check tour availability online
Scomazzon’s Farm Store
Scomazzon’s Farm Store is a local legend. A family run business for 25 years, their country store sits at the base of their farm along the Mossman-Daintree Road. They grow and produce tropical fruits and vegetables and stock local artisan produce from across the Far North including Kefir Queen, The Good Shroom, Beach Harvest, The Tea Chest, Dukes Donuts and Grant Street Kitchen. The four generations of Scomazzon’s have a passion for sourcing the best local produce available, and sharing it with visitors and locals alike. With rare and seasonal exotic fruits and a range of handmade foodie gifts, this is a must-do when visiting Port Douglas and the Daintree.
Open weekdays 8.30am to 5.30pm, Saturdays 8am to 3pm, Sundays 9am to 2pm
Mossman Markets
A genuine country market, held beneath the giant raintrees in Mossman. You can expect lots of fresh produce, including exotic fruits, herbs and spices and a wide range of vegetables. There’s also a range of local producers, including the Kefir Queen with a full stock of kombucha, kimchi and water kefir, as well as Shannonvale Chevon with their unique range of goat chorizo, kransky and salami.
Open every Saturday from 7am to 1pm
Yum Yums
Yum Yums is a small family-owned health food store loved by locals for its fresh farm produce, healthy takeaway menu bursting with colour and vitality and its famous soft serve frozen yoghurt. Vegan, organic, gluten free – whatever your dietary needs, they’ll make you happy! Produce comes from their own farm in the Whyanbeel Valley, and from their network of specialised local growers and artisans, including Kefir Queen, Beach Harvest and Daintree Food Co. There’s plenty to tantalise your taste buds, including chocolate, vanilla, honey, raw foods, juices and smoothies. You can even order hampers and platters, or get them to deliver a local produce box to your holiday home.
Open Monday to Friday 9am-5pm, Saturday 9am-1pm
Shannonvale Tropical Fruit Winery
Shannonvale Tropical Fruit Winery is a boutique family-run winery producing tropical fruit wines from organic fruits grown and harvested on the property at Shannonvale, just 20 minutes north of Port Douglas. For almost 20 years, the Woodall family have been making award-winning wines from very dry wines to medium flavoured, full bodied and port-style wines, made from mango, lychee, passionfruit, lime, black sapote and other rare fruits, all expertly produced to commercial standards.
Open Tuesday to Sunday - 10am to 4.30pm
The Australian Chocolate Farm
Nestled in Shannonvale, the Australian Chocolate Farm offers a delightful experience for chocolate enthusiasts. Specialising in exquisite chocolates made from locally sourced ingredients, the farm provides guided tours that showcase the chocolate-making process, from bean to bar, with tastings highlighting their unique flavours.
Open Wednesday to Saturday - 9am to 4pm
Port Douglas Markets
Port Douglas’ most famous market, established in 1998, has over 100 stallholders with everything from fresh produce to sugar cane juice, freshly opened coconuts, chocolate coated bananas, ice cream and smoothies, plus great coffee.
Open Sundays in Anzac Park (end of Macrossan St), 8am to 1.30pm.
