Nfm Issue 82, Nov '23

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CONTRIBUTORS Chele Sellman, Editor-in-Chief Catherine Michelle, Editor at Large, Vlogger/Reviews, & European Rep Hannah Swan, Fashion Director Mary Lewis, PR & Marketing Rachel Grannis, Copy Editor Elizabeth Dmitruk, Partnerships Madison Mooney, Ad Director Marla Jenkins, Web Lead Wynn Wilder, Writer Zuri Mwangi, Writer Winema Martinez, Writer Isla Lewis, Writer Marisol Perez-Villaflor, Writer Charlotte Choi, Writer Juna Roord, Writer Helena Carrington, Submissions Sasha Taylor, Social Media Shannon Sewell, House Photographer Seattle/Portland/Vegas/LA Kyle J Yunker, House Photographer Seattle House Photographer

54 Cover AI Artist: Fashion Coupids


November

INSIDE...

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12 The Horror Behind Fast Fashion 14 It's Time to Pumpkin 18 Slay Model Management: A Trans Agency Paving the Way 22 Dear Brands 24 Black-Owned Beauty Brands You Should Know 26 Best Fall Makeup 74 TikTok Healthy Habits 78 Seasonal Flavors Around the World 84 Tips to Grow Your Instagram

EDITORIAL 30 40 46 54 62

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Call of the Desert Love, Myself NSOUCIANT Fashion Feast Butterfly Effect


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It’s Time To

PUMP(KIN) a little spice into your fall wardrobe

As much as we all love to soak in the summer sun, the flavors that come with the fall have us all excited. Pumpkin spice lattes are back and tastier than ever, but what’s a pumpkin spice latte without an outfit to match it? It is time to ditch the basic oversized sweater and messy bun look that is usually worn while sipping the fall drink and instead elevate your look to match the sophisticated yet comforting drink.

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The first look takes business casual to a whole other level. If you are someone who loves to be comfortable yet also fashionable, this look was made for you! Monochrome outfits are one of the top trends of 2021, and the fall is the perfect time to take advantage of the trend with a matching sweat set. Both items should not be too baggy because the set will be layered under an oversized blazer which will elevate the comfy look to a chic look. The outfit is best accessorized with a shoulder bag, layered necklaces, and of course, a pumpkin spice latte.

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If you are still craving the basic look but want to participate in the fall trends, this next look is for you. A classic earth-toned turtleneck layered with an oversized denim jacket and mom jeans or long skirts are the new staple items of 2021 and perfect if you love to keep it casual. There is plenty of room to personalize this outfit which can simply be done with a mini shoulder bag and square frame black sunglasses. It is a coffee date look that can’t go wrong.

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Cottagecore fashion was very popular this summer, and who says it has to end for the fall? For those of you who love to go to pumpkin patches while sipping on your pumpkin spice latte, here is the recipe for a classy “pumpkincore” outfit. To achieve this look, you’ll need a simple burnt orange satin dress layered with a cropped tie-front cardigan. This outfit is best accessorized with some pearls, chunky sandals, and a large hair claw. This look is classy and the perfect match for your pumpkin spice latte.

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Slay Model Management: A Trans Modeling Agency That Is Paving the Way Shanna Gall & SOS Showroom

Shanna Gall

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Bodysuit - Shanna Gall Corset - The Trend Haus

Inclusivity. It’s a word that has floated around the fashion industry for years. It’s a word that we all constantly see, hear, and read everywhere we go. It’s something that has always been important, but never the priority— until now. Most fashion brands, designers, and modeling agencies are now trying to be more transparently inclusive. But, there are some people out there who have always known the importance of being inclusive and representing those who are rarely represented. Enter Slay Model Management. A premier management company that represents transgender model talent, Slay Model Management has always been ahead of the game and continues to be. Founder and director Cecilio Asuncion saw there was a clear need for a space for trans models where they can thrive while doing the thing they love. Slay Model Management shows the world that trans is beautiful, and trans models are just as talented, passionate, and driven as any other cisgender model. Slay models have appeared in the pages of Vogue Italia, Pump Magazine, Oprah Magazine, Harper’s Bazaar Vietnam, and Bride Vogue, to name a few, and have walked the runways of multiple fashion shows. Slay model Mimi Tao was the first trans model to be featured on the beloved TV show “Project Runway.” In an interview with New Face Magazine, Cecilio Asuncion talks about the purpose and impact of Slay Model Management and where he hopes to see Slay Model Management in the future.

Wardrobe Stylist: Joaquin Aristides Flores Photographer: John Molina Model: Slay Models LA

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At what point was it clear that you/your team needed to create Slay Model Management? Slay Model Management opened in 2016. I had just finished shooting my documentary, “What’s the T?” and I had been exposed to the Trans* community. Employment truly was, and still is, one of the biggest issues the community goes through. I grew up with the Supermodels, and a space was necessary to create a place for Trans women and men to be seen as beautiful and to make a living out of it as a possibility. What impact have you seen Slay Model Management have in the modeling industry already? Our agency has done a lot of “firsts,” such as the first Trans model on the cover of the Spiegel catalog, the first Trans model on “Project Runway,” and the first all Trans cast of a reality show called “Strut.” I have models who I have signed now, who had seen those firsts, and it had given them hope to see themselves as part of the fashion landscape.

House of JMC The Trend Haus & Shanna Gall

It’s no secret that while there has been much improvement in the fashion industry for better inclusive initiatives, there is still a lot of work to be done. What influence do you hope Slay Model Management will have on the future of the modeling world? Truly the education that the Trans community is employable, beautiful, and should not be based on quantifying one’s gender. Conversation needs to be ongoing and a space of kindness and understanding. The legacy I hope to leave behind is that there was a space we created for the community to be seen and taken seriously as a working model. When scouting for models, what are the qualities that are actively looked for and stand out the most? We are a very diverse agency, and I am proud of that, as our diversity started ever since we opened in 2016. Passion is the number one quality I look for. Second is respect for the craft and their co-models When you have Slay models representing a brand or designer, is there any added pressure, higher expectations, or unconscious biases you think Slay models have to face? I don’t believe so. Slay Models are models first, and Trans folk second. The modeling world is a tough industry to break into and can also be very discouraging. Is there any advice you have for any aspiring

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models out there, especially in the trans community? Yes. Don’t expect to be Kendall Jenner or Bella Hadid with the same paycheck. It takes years to develop and climb the ranks. Be patient, find your tribe, and respect the craft. Expect to work numerous times for free and work with creatives. Communicate with your agent, as it takes a long time to develop yourself. And keep going, and do not give up.

House of JMC

What are the core values of Slay? How do the core values impact the models you sign and the companies that you work with? Simple: WE SEE TRANS INDIVIDUALS AS BEAUTIFUL. OUR STRONG COMMITMENT TO DEVELOPING THEM AS SUCCESSFUL MODELS IS NEVER ABOUT QUANTIFYING THE MODEL’S GENDER. IT IS ABOUT THEIR PASSION AND COMMITMENT TO BEING THE BEST POSSIBLE MODELS THEY CAN BE. I believe 100% that the clients we have had who hired our models understand what Slay Model Management is about. What has been the biggest challenge Slay Model Management has faced, and how did you overcome those challenges? Tokenism is a big problem and the scarcity of jobs. Our models still go through this as there’s not enough demand because people need to understand that beauty is beauty. It is not dictated by one’s biases or designation at birth. We overcome it by simply existing. Every day we put in the work, we develop our talent, and it’s constant education within the community and outside of the community. Where do you hope to see the future of Slay Model Management head to? World domination. We would like to have Slay Model Management in key cities within the fashion realm. With enough luck and perseverance, we will get there. * Editor’s Note: Trans and Transgender are capitalized in this article, highlighting the importance of the topic.

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Salted Caramel

TOO FACED

SAIE Slip Tint

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FENTY SKIN

Fat Water Toner

GLOSSIER Cloud Paint


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Love Myself Photography & Post Work | Damien Etcheverry Model | Sewon Park Agency | Marilyn Agency Paris Makeup Artist | Julien Rol using Rabanne Haistylist | David Vincent Marotta using John Masters Organics France & Dyson Hair France

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NSOUCIANT Is the latest collection from texture queen, Lisa Vann Van Studio, Seattle. Washington. This collection was designed for the release of her latest looks in color. texture, cut and style for a soft launch at the Intercoiffure Chicago show that was held on Oct 1-2.

Haircolor | Lisa Vann Hair styling | Lisa Vann Photo | John Rawson Assisted by Paul Gill MUA | Orlando Leon Marin Fashion Stylist | Lisa Vann Designer | Deonte Weathers Post Production | Hume Retouch & John Rawson

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Fashion


Feast

Art by Fashion Coupids








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Butterfly Effect Designer | Kelli McDonough My name is Kelli McDonough. I am 47-years-old and reside in Portland Oregon. I was adopted at age 10 from South Korea to Wenatchee, Washington where I went to elementary school and also where I first met my husband. I was in the dental field, operative assistant to office manager, and thought I was eventually going to dental school. Life always throw curve balls and that is not where I ended up. I taught myself to crochet & knit while staying at home with our 3 kids. Along the way, I started making my own patterns and experimenting when someone suggested I check out fashion school. I found Portland Fashion Institute and loved every minute of learning and eventually graduated with all three certifications they offered instead of just the one I intended: My initial focus was technical development mostly for athletic knit wear as Nike, Adidas and other similar company head quarters were here in Portland. Nf m 63


Even though my focus was not on couture or costume design, I went to work at Portland Opera’s costume department shortly after graduating. Christine A. Richardson, who is the head of the department hired me, took me under her wing and showed me the ropes. She and the staff taught me so much in such a short amount of time, I fell in love with designs geared more towards the theatrical scene. That’s where I was also introduced to Renegade Opera where I got to do my own designs. I was eventually contacted by FashioNxt, a platform where emerging designers can showcase a collection and compete. This year, there were 6 of us vying for the judges votes and people’s votes. I was the people’s vote winner.

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I had 8 garments created with the theme of human anatomy. The collection was named “Ana Tommy”, not only because it sounds like anatomy, but also the people who played important roles in showing of this collection was named Tom Lupton who is my photographer, Tom gammons is my music man, and Ana who is one of the models. When I sat down to designer this, it was really important for me to take my past experiences, good and bad, and make it really heartfelt and relatable. I wanted the interpretation of each body system to have a view point that all of us might have felt at one point or another and evoke empathy. I think that’s also why I chose several cover variations of Pink Floyd songs to play on the runway because there was nothing more sad, maddening, agitating and beautiful as their songs. Those are the words I hope people use to describe what I make because I don’t want a fashion show: I wanted an in your face theatrics more or less. In the end, I think I was the people’s choice winner because it came through the way I intended. Multiple people came and told me after the show how emotional they felt, a few cried, and I hope I can achieve that again in my future shows. I really wanted to work with Tom Lupton, who is really an artist that happens to use a camera as one of the tools to really let 66 Nf m



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us see what is in his mind and heart. His work isso exquisite. He is very similar to me in the way that we have to really get to know the people we are working with and see what they are about in order to collaboratively make it the most elevated art possible. The level of empathy he has really brings out the raw and emotional beauty that I too chase. I am not sure what the future holds for me from here because I was for sure not doing couture type designs, but when I close my eyes now, that’s all I see. I don’t ever want to be just a one trick pony, so my best guess is I am going to throw everything in a blender and see what pours out. I know for a fact though, it has to be whimsy, weird and weird. Nf m 69


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By Sophie Wells who is an editorial intern who is knowledgeable in all things fashion, cooking, and entertainment. 74 Nf m


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f there’s one idea that has spread throughout the course of 2020’s many endeavors; it’s the journey to self-health, both mentally and physically. From daily diets and exercise, to stretches and workouts that will help you shed some pounds, we’ve seen it all. These tips and tricks have especially been spread through the wildly popular and growing app, TikTok.

In terms of physical self-improvement, users have created various inspiring trends. One of my personal favorites is showing the difference in your body, skin, etc. from start-to-finish, after working out and bettering yourself for a certain amount of time. While some do it for two weeks and others do it for six months, it doesn’t matter; seeing the results of their hard work is extremely empowering, and has inspired so many to start the journey. Nf m 75


Other videos that have become common include people’s favorite workout routines for different areas of the body (abs, booty, arms, legs, etc.), stretches that are helpful to the mind and body, and settings to use on a treadmill in order to burn the most calories. While all of these videos are incredibly helpful for hundreds of people, it is extremely important to keep in mind that a weight loss journey is different for every single person. It is always going to look and feel different for individuals, but pushing through those hard days and working to make yourself feel better is always worth it in the end. As long as you do these workouts in the most healthy way and remember that it takes TIME to reach your goals, I encourage everyone to take a look at these helpful TikToks. One user, in particular, made a huge impact on me as I was scrolling through my feed one day. As she was dancing around in one of her inspirational workout videos, @jennyjfitness said, “Workouts should be FUN and something you enjoy. If you don’t like the workout you’re doing, you’ll never stick to it! There is no SINGLE way to get fit and lose weight. It’s all about CONSISTENCY and making fitness a LIFESTYLE.” This is something I think everyone should remember, no matter how far along you are in your journey of personal growth. Go easy on yourself and find routines that work for you. 76 Nf m


On the other side of TikTok’s helpful advice, we have mental health awareness. In my opinion, like all social media, this app can bring people even further anxiety than they already have. Censoring all of the bad things on the internet is nearly impossible, so, of course, you’re going to see some upsetting things on TikTok if you’re on it long enough. However, there is an incredibly uplifting side to it, as well.

One of the trends that I deeply admire is users informing the world of what panic attacks look like and how to help stop them as fast as possible. If you have anxiety, you know how terrible and crippling panic attacks are. By spreading these psychological tricks to calm anxiety, I feel as though many people have benefited. For example, user @ericbzink created a video explaining how dumping a salt packet on your tongue when you feel a panic attack coming on will distract your brain and help you recover faster. Other helpful trends related to mental health include calming ASMR videos, people connecting with one another over habits they’ve made due to their anxiety, songs that will help ease your mind, and much more.

Overall, I feel it’s important to remember that everyone is different in their own beautiful way, everyone has to fight their own battles, and therefore, everyone’s self-health journey is going to be different. If we all come together through apps like TikTok, spread kindness, and offer help to those in need, this world will become that much more amazing. Nf m 77


America

As the weather gets colder in the United States and people pull out their autumn seasonal decor, many Americans shiver in anticipation of the infamous pumpkin spice latte. Pumpkin spice is a traditional flavor that encompasses everything fall in the United States.


Since its growth in popularity, thanks to Starbucks Pumpkin Spice Latte, many foods, and drink companies have monopolized on the flavor, incorporating it into their products in any way possible. The flavor can now be found in creme-filled cookies, beers, and even mac and cheese. Pumpkin spice has become such a huge part of the fall experience that many people in the United States will not admit the season has come until the scrumptious flavor hits their taste buds. If pumpkin spice signals the start of fall in America, what flavors complete the fall experience in other parts of the globe?

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Canada

As the largest maple syrup producer in the world, and the maple leaf the symbol on their national flag, it only makes sense that the deliciously smooth syrup is desired. With fall being prime time for maple syrup harvesting it only makes sense that it would be put on anything. This delicious flavor can be put in coffee, on ice cream, and pancakes of course.

France Pears are the big fall flavor here, which stems from this traditional fall dessert: the french pear clafoutis that many bakeries make during fall. This delicious dessert combines the sweet taste of soft pears, with a custard base. Along with the clafoutis, many french bakeries make other tasty desserts such as the pear Tarte Tati, a classic tart that is made much like an upsidedown cake, and the pear Belle Hellen, which is essentially poached pears with a yummy chocolate sauce. The french pear flavor can also be found in Saint Siffrein gourmet jellies. 80 Nf m


Australia

Apple is a huge fall flavor here, it can be found in apple pies, candies, and even apple tarts. But among all the different apple recipes a huge Australian staple is stuffed baked apples. These apples are hollowed out; stuffed with a delicious mixture of pecans, dates, and then baked until soft. They are often served hot with a side of ice cream.

Japan

During the fall, many street vendors sell the delicious dish titled yaki-imo, which is simply a roasted Japanese sweet potato that many people like to enjoy as a snack. The Japanese sweet potato is much sweeter than the American sweet potato. According to Justonecookbook, the Japanese sweet potato has a nuttier flavor and its texture is much drier. Japan also enjoys this sweet potato in a candied form often referred to as Daigaku Imo. These candied sweet potatoes are deep-fried and then covered in a hard sugar coating. Nf m 81


Mexico In Central Mexico, Chiles are used in many main dishes during the fall. The poblano chile is used to create the national dish chiles en nogada. The poblano chiles are typically stuffed with picadillo and topped with a walnut-based sauce. The flavor of Chiles is also found in a multitude of different candies such as chile-infused chocolate, such as Chamoy: a hardened sugar candy, and chile-infused peach rings.

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These are just a few flavors that are used in popular fall dishes in various countries. How interesting that these distinct flavors can bring forth nostalgic thoughts of fall and signal the beginning of a new season. Each flavor is stocked in tradition and is unique to the country it comes from. What signals the change of seasons to a person in one country means nothing to someone from a different country. But as seen by the pumpkin spice craze in the United States, perhaps relying on one flavor to get you in the autumnal mood has been taken too seriously. With companies

incorporating the flavor into everything imaginable, the flavor is starting to lose its novelty. As a result, it is overdone and many people are starting to get tired of the flavor. Instead of focusing so much on pumpkin spice maybe people in the United States should turn to different countries to find their next traditional fall flavor. And maybe other countries should start adapting new fall flavors as well. My advice to you is next time you’re feeling festive try making a fall dish from one of the countries listed above.

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Becoming an influencer is not as impossible as it used to be. There is no shame in wanting to grow your following and become an Insta baddie! Here are some tips to help grow your Instagram.

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Hashtags It may seem pretty obvious, but using hashtags is a great way to get Instagram users to interact with your posts! By using hashtags, you have a higher chance of landing on the explore page, which will increase the number of likes on your posts and reach your target audience.

Connect your socials Connecting your Instagram account to your Twitter account and your Pinterest account will make your following skyrocket. Once you have linked your accounts, every time you post on Instagram, your pictures will immediately be posted on Pinterest and Twitter. This will give your posts two times more of a chance to be shared, liked, and saved!

Join an Instagram hype group An Instagram hype group is one of the many creations TikTokers have come up with to help each other grow on Instagram. You can be added to a hype group by simply commenting your Instagram handle under a TikTok that is asking who wants to be a part of a group chat where they all support each other's posts. These groups can have as many as 20 Instagramers looking to share, like, and save your posts so that your Instagram can grow! When they share your posts onto their story, their followers have a chance of clicking on your page, possibly liking your posts, and even following you!

Hop on trends Whenever anyone promotes their Instagram, for some reason, it feels a bit cringey to our generation. There are ways to promote without being cringey, and the best way to do that is through TikTok trends. There are multiple trends on TikTok that consist of simply sharing your photos to the beat of a trendy song. In the caption, be sure to write your Instagram handle, because if people like what they see on TikTok, they are more than likely going to become a new follower on Instagram. You can also add your handle in your TikTok bio!



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